&
TECHNIQUE
w w w . e s t e t i c a . c o . z a
N째 3/13 EDITION
COLOUR
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D ED I C AT ED T O C O L O R P ER F EC T I O N .
ESTETICA SOUTH AFRICA COLOUR & TECHNIQUE SUPPLEMENT n. 3 /2013
contents
Published under licence from Estetica, Edizioni Esav srl, Turin/Italy PUBLISHER Ralf Fletcher PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Van Fletcher van.fletcher@topco.co.za EDITOR Cindy Horton cindy.horton@topco.co.za COPY-EDITOR Alexandra Nagel alex.nagel@topco.co.za CREATIVE DIRECTOR Emil Lime emil.p@topco.co.za BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER & ADVERTISING Lizel Jonker lizel.jonker@topco.co.za SUBSCRIPTION Ingrid Johnstone ingrid.johnstone@topco.co.za IMAGES www.shutterstock.com PRINTERS Paarl Media Paarl PUBLISHED BY Topco Media 2nd Floor Bree Street Studios 17 New Church Street Cape Town Ph: 086 000 9590 Fax: 021 423 7876 Email: info@estetica.co.za Website: www.estetica.co.za
ESTETICA INTERNATIONAL PUBLISHER & DIRECTOR Roberto Pissimiglia
Sharon Blain
4-5
Joico
6-7
Tigi
8-9
Mazella & Palmer
10-11
Pivot Point
12-13
Mazella & Palmer
14-15
Simone Zangheri
16-17
Patrick Kalle
18-19
Sanrizz
20-21
Pravana
22-23
Coiffeur en France
24-25
Laurent Voisinet
26-27
Tadora
28-29
Coiffeur en France
30-31
Kérastase
32-33
Kérastase
34-35
Davines
37-39
Rusk
40-43
Products
45-48
Cover image: Essential Looks Collection by Schwarzkopf Professional.
The bed-head look; fuss-free hairstyling.
ESTETICA NETWORK EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Carla De Meo ESTETICA NETWORK EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Laura Castelli INTERNATIONAL EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Fatima Pilone INTERNATIONAL EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Ludovica Cavalli Carola Piazza EDITORIAL STAFF Sergi Bancells, Daniela Giambrone, Gary Kelly, Judith Lorenzon, Petra Weinzierl. ART DIRECTION Barbara Belletti LAYOUT Manuela Artosi, Paola Baratta, Davide Cardente LICENSING EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Erika Marchese LICENSING MANAGER Elena Flaugnatti SALES SUPERVISOR ITALY, FRANCE, GERMANY, POLAND, THE NETHERLANDS, SOUTH AFRICA, Emilio de’ Martino
Long locks illuminated by varing tones and textures.
COLOR RECHARGE
Boost your colour between salon visits
• Maintain multi-dimensional colour contrasts • Experience lightweight yet nourishing conditioning warm blonde
RED
warm red
cool brunette
warm brunette
Firebrand 6624
cool blonde
6606 WP ColRe Estetica FPFC Aug.indd 1
2013/06/07 11:32 AM
step t s ep by
All the secrets of top international hairstylists
SHARON BLAIN
Hair: Sharon Blain Photo: James Demitri Make-up: Memo Gallard Styling: Britt McCamey Products: Goldwell
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A playful take on the popular fishtail braid. 1. Spray the roots with Goldwell StyleSign Hot Form and crimp the roots 5cm deep. 2. Lightly spray the ends with Goldwell StyleSign Hot Form.
Use a double-barrel wave tong and wave the ends of the hair. 3. Brush the hair from the nape to the crown for body and lift. 4. Make a 3cm square section on the crown in line with the top of the ears. Gently back comb this section and place a band at the root and loop the hair into a top knot. This will act as a base to sew the hair. 5. Continue to work in the same manner as steps 1 through 4 (pivoting around the head) for approximately four staggered diagonal slice partings and one diagonal slice parting - a total of five foils. Leave a piece of longer hair un-foiled. 6. Direct the remaining ends to the right side of the nape and continue to sew the frizz to hold together.
7. Work a fishtail into the remaining ends and gently pull out edges to loosen and soften the fishtail. 8. Back comb the ends to hold the braid together. 9. Finish off the design by pulling out and working the hair into shape. Spray with Goldwell StyleSign Big Finish to complete.
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JOICO
Hair: Damien Carney Color Sue Pemberton Photo: Hama Sanders Products: Joico
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Golden tones create highlights in this Avant Garde style. 1. Section hair around the crest area. Take a vertical parting just above the ear and cut to desired length. 2. Pivot off the first guide using diagonal forward partings. Overdirect to the previous and apply tension. The last parting is almost horizontal. 3. Go back to the original guide; take a parting slightly diagonal backwards and connect the sides with the back nape area. Continue to take
diagonal partings. Work towards just past the centre back of head. 4.Section opposite side diagonal backward as shown. Cut to desired length with a high graduation. 5.Continue work toward the centre back of the head using a diagonal graduation technique. Blow-dry hair smooth. 6.Refine temple area using a chipping and pointing technique. 7. Refine the nape area. Profile view. 8.Take the first section on top area from the crown to the temple and cut to desired length using a point-cut technique to lighten ends. Take slightly larger diagonal partings and overdirect all partings on top area to first section and pointcut. 9. Refine the hairline and side area by chipping and pointing the edges of the hair. Note that this side of the haircut is fuller than the opposite, flatter side. 10.Repeat the pointing
9 technique on the opposite side. Take a vertical parting from the crown to just above the ear and cut to desired length. (This is your stationary guide). Pivot from the crown, take diagonal partings to the front and overdirect to first guide. Repeat the prosess on the crown back area. Ensure sufficient weight is removed from the top area. 11. Establish a fringe length that complements the individual face shape and hair texture.
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TIGI
Hair: Piero Gentile Photo: Anthony Mascolo Grooming: Amy Barrington Styling: Jiv D Products: B for Men
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The bed-head look; fuss-free hairstyling.
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1.Apply B for Men Multitasking Grooming cream to the hair as a cutting agent. Take a radial part from ear to ear across the crown. Follow this with a diagonal back section from the middle of the ear to the opposite side of the hairline at the nape. 2. Comb the hair to the natural fall; elevate to 45째 and pointcut to establish the graduation at the nape. 3. Repeat the same technique on the opposite side of the head. 4/5. Towards the crown continue with the same technique, working behind the ears to build weight at the occipital bone. 6. At the sides work with
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horizontal sections. Comb the hair to the natural fall and at a low elevation, point-cut parallel to the part. 7. Above the recession area over-direct each section back. This maintains length through the front hairline. Point-cut to complete the shape. 8.Apply Pure Texture Molding cream, then blow-dry the hair directionally away from the face using the hands. Finish with B for Men Matte Separation Workable Wax to add hold and separation.
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MAZELLA & PALMER
Hair: Mazella&Palmer Photo: Jamie Harrison Make-up: Melissa Bourne Video production: Andrew Gilbert MyHairDressers.com
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This geometric cut is both daring and simple.
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1.Create the sections as indicated in the image. 2. Start on the right-hand side of the lower back section, work with diagonal sections, pulling the hair to approximately 90 degrees and angle the fingers. Continue with parallel sections. 3. Work the sections, keeping their acute angle, across the head until you reach halfway. Repeat the same process on the second side.
4. Start on the right-hand side panel. Take a slightly diagonal section, pull the hair to 90 degrees and cut a flat line. 5. Repeat the same process on the second side. Work to the back of the ear, the back and sides are then connected. 6. Dry the perimeter panels then refine with scissor and clipper over comb. Refine the side outlines and blend around the ears. 7. Start with a vertical section, work with parallel sections, with all sections on base at 90 degrees. 8. Work with the horseshoe fringe sections. Divide this section in the centre. Pull the hair to a finger’s width of graduation and cut a round line. Continue with slight elevation to form a graduated curved perimeter. Repeat on the second side. 9. Refine the fringe using a pointing technique. Take a vertical section on the top and bring it down onto the righthand side. Using the back layering as a guide, cut an A-line shape. 10. Take a vertical section on the left-hand side through the top. Pull the hair to 90 degrees and cut a square line.
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PIVOT POINT
Hair: Pivot Point International Team Courtesy of Meta Men
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Length and precision cutting allow for effortless styling.
1.Use the shears and the comb to distribute the hair naturally with minimal tension. Position the comb horizontally and notch just above the tip of the nose. 2. Work from the centre toward one side. Position the comb along a diagonal-back line, use comb control and notch. Then work toward the other side to create a slightly concave line in the fringe. 3. Extend the diagonal-back line on the right side. Use natural distribution with no projection and a diagonal-back comb position. Then return to the front and extend the diagonal-back line on the left side. 4. Section the head with a horse-shaped parting along the upper crest. In the centre back exterior, distribute straight out, position your fingers vertically and notch. Keep the lengths below the occipital to maintain weight along the perimeter.
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5. Work to the right using a mobile design line and vertical partings. Work to the front hairline using a nonparallel finger position. 6. Return to the center back and use the same techniques to work to the opposite side. 7. Take a pivotal parting at the center front hairline. Use perpendicular distribution, 90째 projection, a parallel finger position and notch to create uniform lengths working to the point of origin. 8. Work toward the left side. Sculpt parallel to the head as you work around the crown toward the right side. 9- Use the same techniques as you work to complete the interior. Continue working past the centre front to ensure all lengths blend. Styling: first, apply styling cream throughout the lengths and then air form the hair using a paddle brush to direct the lengths.
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MAZELLA & PALMER
Hair: Mazella&Palmer Photo: Jamie Harrison Make-up: Melissa Bourne Video production: Andrew Gilbert MyHairDressers.com
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Vibrant shades of red complete this stricking cut.
9 1. Create the sections as indicated in the image. 2. Start with the first section in the back with a central vertical section. The hair is pulled down at a 45 degree angle. Cut a line from longer to shorter in the nape. Continue with pivoting sections. 3. When you approach the back of the ear, over direct back to maintain weight around the ear. Repeat the same process on the second side. 4. Work with the second section taking a central vertical section and pull the hair to a 45 degree angle. Cut from longer to shorter. Continue with pivoting diagonal sections. 5. Once you reach the top of the ear, continue with the sections running along the parietal ridge. Repeat on the second side.
6. Refine the back outline shape with a pointing technique and clippers 7. Refine the left-hand side outline, with a more solid edge. 8. Start with a central section on the crown. Pull the hair out at 90 degrees to the head and cut a straight line. Repeat the same process on the second side, which includes the parting. 9. Dry off the mid-section and refine with a pointing technique. Refine the perimeter in the front. 10. Work with a vertical section from the crown to the front and slightly on the left-hand side. Elevate and over direct back, angling the fingers from shorter to longer. Continue with parallel sections. Blow dry the top, iron, then refine the perimeter front lengths with a pointing technique.
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SIMONE ZANGHERI
Hair: Simone Zangheri (Selvaggio Artistic Team) Colour: Selvaggio Artistic Team Photo: Artbox Make-up: Claudio Ferri
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A modern twist on the military inspired hairstyle.
1. Separate the hair in the upper part of the head from the lower part using a horseshoe shape that stretches from temple to temple and passes through the fulcrum. In the rear zone, cut vertical and parallel sections. 2. On the side zones, work downward on oblique sections. 3. Finish the lower zone of the horseshoe section by using a shears-over-comb technique. 4. In the upper zones, create a guide section by working on a section that extends from the front hairline (in correspondence with the nose) to the rear zone (passing through the fulcrum).
5. Working on horizontal and parallel sections, distribute the weight in the rear zone. Pay close attention to the position of the elbow and hands. 6. Dry the style by directing the roots of the hair. 7. Add more personality to the style by using the razor technique. 8. Use electric clippers to better define and shorten the contours of the cut. 9. Finish the styling with the help of a styling iron.
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PATRICK KALLE
Hair: Patrick Kalle for Farouk Systems Photo: Foto Floor Step by step photo: Rene Van Manen Make-up: Mariska de Jong Styling: Miquel Mohamedjar
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The short style remains feminine and soft.
1. From the crown area forward, create three triangular shaped sections. 2.Cut the sides with a scissors-over-comb technique diagonally to the back. 3. The lower contour line in the nape area is cut in a high graduation and connected to the sides.
4.Use a perpendicular distribution and a low projection in the triangle areas in front of the ears. 5. The large triangle in the front is point-cut with the tip of the scissors. Position your fingers parallel to the diagonal parting. 6. The sides are blend cut with a razor in a diagonal forward line. 7. The layers of the interior of the scalp are cut with a razor to create a disconnection in the ends.
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SANRIZZ
Hair: Sanrizz Artistic Team Photo: Andres Reynaga Make-up: Lee Pearson Styling: Valentina Tiurbini
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Precision cutting and simple hair design create a sleek finish.
1. Placing a diagonal section through the front, create a straight angular design line. 2. Direct hair onto the original guide line. 3. Working finger length around the parietal area, building a uniform weight line for contrast of length. 4. Continue following the guide, connecting the length at the sides.
5. Define shape using minimum elevation, finishing at the parting area. 6. Use scissors over-comb technique to build up the weight line. 7. Follow guide for scissors over-comb in panels to create a perfect technique. 8. Using a mini clipper, sculpt outline to personalise shape. 9. To create asymmetry on the shape, over direct the second side further back. 10. Continue following graduation around headshape. 11. Using the guide at the parietal area, comb hair directly out and cut a square internal guide. 12. Create texture by shattering initial shape.
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PRAVANA
Hair: James Gartner, Pravana Artistic Educator Photo: Josh McCaghren Make-up: Suzie K Styling: Caisa Airmet
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Encapsulating Hollywood glamour with premium condition colour and shine.
1. Section the hair into four workable sections. Ask where the guest will part her hair and take a top section based on this. Mix Pure Light Power Lightener with a slow lifting developer choice like 20 Volume. 2. Begin foiling in the side section using a diagonal back parting a quarter inch wide. Use a medium stitch for natural highlights. 3. Repeat foil application on the other side. 4. Move to the top section and begin at the crown. Repeat the medium stitch weave on the sides. 5. Choose a tone and level that complements skin tone. Here we used Bombshell Brunettes 5.37 Golden Violet with Zero Lift Developer. Begin all-over colour application on the top section. Paint the colour at the base to the edge of the foil. Leave the ends until last. Repeat for colour between foils, on the sides. Apply this same formula to the crown and back.
6. Stop at the top of the ear when you reach the nape area. Mix a level darker for the nape to create depth to the bottom neck area. In this case we used Bombshell Brunettes 4.37 Golden Violet with Zero Lift Developer. Apply from base to mid-shaft. 7. Paint mid-shaft and ends using a level lighter than the base colour, in our case 5.37 in the nape and 6.37 on the rest. 8. Allow to process according to manufacturer directions. 9. Pull foils and rinse hair to prevent the colours bleeding into each other. Shampoo with your favourite PRAVANA shampoo. Towel blot hair thoroughly and apply a toner from base to ends. Allow to process for 15 minutes. Rinse, shampoo, condition, and dry hair.
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COIFFEUR EN FRANCE
Artistic Direction: Pascal Raffy-Buge Hair: Marie Leroy, Anthony Michel & Benjamin Stalter for Coiffeur en France Photo: Claudia Fessler Photo step by step: Cyril Garcia Make-up: Damian Garozzo Styling: GĂŠraldine Pezet & Joana Figueira
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The modern man - his look is polished and perfectly executed.
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1. Section hair as shown in photo 1. Secure top area. 2. Layer cut using scissors over comb technique at sides and back, slightly fading out at nape. 3. Finish off with clippers and razor. 4. Use clippers to create a clear parting (starting from above the eyebrow). The parting should be approx. 1 cm wide at the front, thinning out towards the nape. 5. Finish off with razor. 6. Shape the layer below the parting, as desired. Comb hair in opposite direction of parting. Trace a cutting line, slightly
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towards the cheekbone, in line with the top back section, 1 cm above the ear. 7. Shift hair from other side and work in same way, towards the edge of the eyebrow. 8. Separate the top section from ear to ear, and layer at the back, in vertical sections, which are then connected to the back layers. 9. Connect the front section to the back, point-cutting at 90째. 10. Trim ends with high precision scissors. 11. Trim and tidy up whiskers with the electric razor and define edges with high precision clippers.
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LAURENT VOISINET
Hair: Laurent Voisinet Photo: Alain Couthert, ValĂŠrie Schwarz Make-up: Min Young Kim Products: Revlon Professional
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Intricately created yet beautifully classic and chic.
1. Trace a U-shaped section on top and secure the two sides. 2. Trace a diagonal line on the left-hand side, from temple to nape. Create four anchor points. 3. Secure four pre-prepared hairpieces. 4. Cover the hairpieces with the loose ends and hair in the lower section of each anchor point.
5. Trace a new diagonal line. 6. Create arabesque shapes (swirls), securing hair softly at the hairpieces. 7. Continue diagonally, joining all together on the largest side. 8/9/10. Continue creating arabesque shapes. Finish off by creating a small plait in the fringe and securing it to the lateral arabesques.
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MARCO TODARO
Art Director: Marco Todaro Hair: Officina Dello Stile Photo: Massimo-Bestetti@MKS-Milano Styling: Anika-Esposito@MKS-Milano Products: Matrix Products
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Ice blonde locks with a punkrock twist.
1/2. Section hair, as shown. 3. Use electric trimmer on whole of lower section, including sides and all of back. 4. Soften texture in area just shaved, using thinning shears. 5. Create a horizontal sub-section and point-cut, staying parallel to diagonal lines at back. 6. Raise hair and cut at 45째, to give lift to previously-cut area.
7. Release side sections and create an asymmetric diagonal line at the front, with longer length towards front. 8. Lift the fringe section skywards, bringing all subsections together towards the middle (fixed base). 9. Finish off the bottom of the fringe for a symmetrical effect. Dry and style.
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COIFFEUR EN FRANCE
Artistic Direction: Pascal Raffy-Buge Hair: Marie Leroy, Anthony Michel & Benjamin Stalter Photo: Claudia Fessler Photo step by step: Cyril Garcia Make-up: Damian Garozzo Styling: GĂŠraldine Pezet & Joana Figueira
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Long locks illuminated by varing tones and textures.
1/4. Make a clear line stretching from one ear to the other crossing the top of the head. On each of the three sections created, define the perimeter and make the length uniform. 5/6. In the rear section, make a layer slightly at 45째, beginning from the top and continuing to the part behind the ear. 7.Take a guide strand, about 1cm wide, just behind the ear. 8. Shorten the sides in keeping with the guide strand just made. 9. Define the length of the fringe, refining it later when hair is dry. 10. On each section, round off the angles like orange slices. 11/12. Dry hair and finish the cut, correcting the length of the fringe.
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KÉRASTASE
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An upward and backward style that is trendy and accentuates the face.
Short hair is for confident women, it is intriguing, versatile and definitely stands out. Even a basic short haircut allows for numerous and intense looks, depending on how the hair is styled. 1.Construct Take one to two pumps of Lift Vertige. Mix and warm it in your hands. Apply to the roots and distribute through the lengths. Lift the hair with your fingers. Work the product into the hair well. Don’t be afraid to add more product if necessary as it has no residue and no sticky feeling.
2.Blow dry Start the blow dry by lifting the hair with your fingers. Apply direct heat on the hair while shaping the style with your hands. 3.Perfect Take a 50 cent piece-size quantity of Short Mania. Mix and warm it in hands. Work the product through the hair focusing on the ends. 4.Fix Spray Laque Couture all over the hair holding it 15cm away.
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KÉRASTASE
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Beach look, surfer’s hair or tousled waves – these are new hairstyle favourites. Modern, fresh and effortless, this style is a hit and not only during the summer. Discover how to recreate this look in five easy steps. 1.Prepare Take a handful of Mousse Bouffant. Apply to towel-dried hair section by section and distribute from the roots through the lengths. Work into the hair along each section. You may add product generously for a full wavy look. 2. Blow dry Proceed to blow drying, do not dry the hair completely, only up to 80 percent. 3. Construct
Apply Spray-à-Porter to create the texture. Spray it all over the hair keeping a distance of 10-15cm. Work product into the hair shaping the waves with hands. 4. Shape For a natural beach look shape the waves with your fingers. Start with the sections around the face moving backwards. Take a random section of 2-4cm and roll it around the finger. Then use the heat of the blow dryer to fix the wave and dry the hair completely. For a more glamorous, look you can use the curling iron. Take a random section of 2-4cm and roll it around the iron. Keep the iron 10-12cm away from the roots. Leave the tip of the hair free. Release the section slowly following it with the fingers. 5. Perfect Apply Gloss Appeal to dry, styled hair by spraying it all over. Keep a distance of 20cm while applying. Separate the hair with fingers for a more tousled look.
4c
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To secure your successful career in hairdressing, contact:
2014/01/31 2:12 PM
DAVINES
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TAGLIO
CUT
Dividete i capelli in 4 sezioni. Create una riga nel centro partendo dalla fronte fino alla nuca e da orecchio a orecchio.
Subdivide in 4 sections. Center part from the forehead to the nape and ear to ear.
1 Create con il pettine una riga leggermente in diagonale sul
1 Take a slight diagonal parting at the front. Follow this section
2 Linea guida/punto di partenza: questa sarà l’unica sezione
2 Guideline/starting point: this is the only section that will be cut diagonally. Comb the section parallel to the head and overdirect up, determine the lengths and cut from short to long towards the front. Do the same thing on the other side.
davanti. Fate proseguire questa linea fino alla parte posteriore.
into the back area.
ad essere tagliata in diagonale. Pettinate la sezione in modo parallelo alla testa e trasportate i capelli verso l’alto, stabilite la lunghezza e tagliate da corto a lungo verso il davanti. Ripetete la stessa operazione sull’altro lato.
CUT
3 Take a vertical/slight diagonal parting; use the guideline from
3 Prendete una sezione verticale/leggermente diagonale; usate
(nr 2) comb the hair parallel to the head overdirect the hair and cut from short to long going downwards. Do the same thing on the other side.
la ciocca guida dello step 2, pettinate i capelli in modo parallelo alla testa, trasportateli e tagliateli da corti lunghi andando Subdivide in 4 sections. Center part from athe forehead to the verso basso. napeil and ear Ripetete to ear. la stessa operazione sull’altro lato.
ntro partendo o.
4 Then, take another vertical/slight diagonal parting, comb it parallel to the head from the guideline and cut it form short to long going upwards. Do the same thing on the other side.
41A Take questo punto,diagonal prendeteparting un’altraat sezione verticale/leggermente a slight the front. Follow this section
iagonale sul e posteriore.
diagonale, pettinate into the back area.i capelli in modo parallelo alla testa partendo dalla ciocca guida e tagliateli da corti a lunghi andando verso l’alto. Ripetete la stessa operazione sull’altro lato. 2 Guideline/starting point: this is the only section that will be cut diagonally. Comb the section parallel to the head and 5overdirect Continuate nella parte posteriore, tagliate questa up, determine the lengths and cut fromsezione short to prendendo come una parte deithe capelli long towards the ciocca front. Doguida the same thing on other della side. sezione dello step 2, tagliate da corto a lungo trasportando i capelli verso l’alto. Ripetete la stessa operazione sull’altro lato. 3 Take a vertical/slight diagonal parting; use the guideline from (nr 2) comb the hair parallel to the head overdirect the hair and 6cut Create sezione verticale, parallela allaDo testa; la fromuna short to long going downwards. the usando same thing ciocca on theguida, othertagliate side. da corto a lungo andando verso il basso. Ripetete la stessa operazione sull’altro lato.
nica sezione one in modo o, stabilite la nti. Ripetete
gonale; usate odo parallelo ghi andando ’altro lato.
5 Continue on the back area, cut this section by taking as a guideline a bit of hair of section nr 2, cut from short to long overdirecting the hair. Do the same thing on the other side. 6 Section vertically parallel to the head, using your guideline
cut short to long moving downward. Do the same thing on the other side.
7 Continue taking vertical partings cutting from the nape
upwards referring to the lengths in the nape area to connect the layers previously cut. Do the same thing on the other side.
4 Then, take another vertical/slight diagonal parting, comb it 7parallel Proseguite prendendo sezioni verticali e and tagliando fromnuca to the head from the guideline cut itdalla form short
/leggermente sta partendo dando verso .
verso l’alto tenendo come di riferimento le lunghezze to long going upwards. Dopunto the same thing on the other side. nella zona della nuca in modo da collegare gli strati tagliati in precedenza. Ripetete la stessa operazione sull’altro lato. 5 Continue on the back area, cut this section by taking as a guideline a bit of hair of section nr 2, cut from short to long 8overdirecting Sollevate l’ultima sezione tagliatela da the corto a lungo. the hair. Do theesame thing on other side. Ripetete la stessa operazione sull’altro lato.
esta sezione capelli della asportando i ull’altro lato.
8 Rise the last section and cut it from short to long. Do the same thing on the other side.
6 Section vertically parallel to the head, using your guideline
cut short to long moving downward. Do the same thing on the other side.
a; usando la erso il basso.
7 Continue taking vertical partings cutting from the nape
upwards referring to the lengths in the nape area to connect the layers previously cut. Do the same thing on the other side.
do dalla nuca e lunghezze strati tagliati ’altro lato.
8 Rise the last section and cut it from short to long. Do the same thing on the other side.
rto a lungo.
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Flamboyage - COLORE Su Tess, utilizzeremo le nuove strisce FLAMBOYAGE MECHE per intensificare le sue tonalità naturali. Questo colore trae ispirazione dalle spezie dell’Africa del nord. Colore naturale: livello 7 Colore cosmetico: livello 7,73 (ottenuto miscelando ¾ di Mask 7,0 e ¼ di Mask 6,73 + Activation Source 10 vol)
Flamboyage - COLOUR
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Togliete le FLAMBOYAGE MECHE risciacquandole con acqua Create una sezione centrale rettangolare partendo dal vertice fino tiepida. alla parte frontale. Pettinate la sezione in avanti e posizionate la On Tess we are going to useMECHE the new stripes FLAMBOYAGE MECHE to intensify her natural tones. The piccola striscia di FLAMBOYAGE in prossimità delle punte dei capelli modo da fissare la from sezione. Posizionate inspiration of inthe colour comes North African spices. Step 6 poi la lunga striscia di FLAMBOYAGE MECHE sulla superficie Lavate i capelli e tamponateli, a questo punto applicate: 20g. Natural colour: level 7 della sezione, esercitate una leggera pressione, poi sollevate di Finest Pigment Gloss + 60g. di L’Art Decolor Yellow toner Cosmetic colour: level 7,73che resteranno attaccati alla delicatamente la striscia. I capelli + 20g. di Finest Pigment Copper e controllate visivamente in striscia verranno (obtained by colorati. mixing ¾ of Mask 7,0 and ¼ of Mask 6,73 + da Activation Source 10 vol) modo ottenere il tono desiderato. * UTILIZZO NON ABITUALE Questo modo di sezionare e colorare i capelli crea un effetto colore molto delicato e di grande eleganza. Suggerimenti per il colore Step 5 le FLAMBOYAGE MECHE - con 40g. di Mask 9,4 Step 1 Applicate MECHE rinsing them with warm water. Create2a central rectangle section from the crown to the Step +Remove 60g. diFLAMBOYAGE Activation Source 30 by vol. front. Comb the section forward and place the small strip of Applicate ora la miscela decolorante alla sezione di capelli Tempo di posa: fino a 40 minuti – controllate visivamente fino FLAMBOYAGE MECHE closeMECHE: to the ends of di theL’Art hair to secure 6 non si sarà ottenuto il risultato desiderato attaccati alle FLAMBOYAGE 40g. Decolor aStep quando the section.Paste Then place strip ofSource FLAMBOYAGE MECHE Shampoo the hair and on towel dried hair, apply : 20g. Finest Bleaching + 60g.the di long Activation 30vol. Applicate oppure onmiscela the surface of the section, press lightly and gently liftalle the Pigment le Gloss + 60g. L’ArtMECHE Decoloralternando Yellow toner 20g. Finest la partendo da metà lunghezza deithen capelli fino Applicate FLAMBOYAGE due+formulazioni strip. The hair thatilremains attached to the strip willlabezona coloured. Pigment Copper and check visually to obtain the desired tone. punte, sfumando prodotto delicatamente verso della di colore: This del method of in sectioning colouring hair a very * NON USEdi Activation Source 40 vol. base capello modo da and evitare il formarsi di creates linee marcate. 20g. di TRADITIONAL Mask 12,7 + 40g. subtle and elegant colour effect. 20g. di Mask 9,01 + 30g. di Activation Source 30 vol. Colour Step 3 Tempo di tips posa: fino a 60 minuti – controllate visivamente fino Step 2 Apply FLAMBOYAGE MECHEil with 40g.desiderato. of Mask 9,4 + 60g. Prendete la sezione successiva sotto la prima e ripetete la a quando non si sarà ottenuto risultato Now apply the bleaching mix to the section of hair attached to the of Activation Source a 30 vol. modalità descritta precedentemente. FLAMBOYAGE MECHE: 40g. L’Art Decolor Bleaching Paste Processing time: up to 40 minutes – check visually up to the + 60g.4Activation Source 30vol. Apply from the mid-lengths desired result Step of the hair towards the ends, diffusing the product gently near or Tempo di posa: da 5 a 20 minuti – controllate visivamente. the re-grow area to avoid creating any harsh lines. Apply FLAMBOYAGE MECHE alternating the application of two colour formulas: 20g. Mask 12,7 + 40g. Activation Source 40 vol. Step 3 20g. Mask 9,01 + 30g. Activation Source 30 vol. Take the next section below the first one and repeat the method Processing time: up to 60 minutes – check visually up to the described above. desired result
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Processing time: from 5 to 20 minutes - check visually.
COLOUR
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Bespoke Rusk 12 pages_Mise en page 1 28/02/13 16:21 Page3
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A unique all-in-one shielding lotion and dry skin care treatment!
HANDS FACE BODY Recommended and used by more than 9500 dermatologists and medical practitioners worldwide.
Available in 240ml and 60ml retail options and a 2.8 litre economy pump bottle for in salon use.
Keep the good stuff in and the bad stuff out. Create a new income stream for your salon or spa and provide skin protection for your staff against the moisture depleting chemicals, and solvents that they come into contact with on a daily basis. Gloves In A Bottle is fragrance and grease free, non-toxic, hypo-allergenic and non-comedogenic. A single dose lasts four to 12 hours. In addition to the protection offered by Gloves In A Bottle, it supports and relieves dry, cracked, red and itchy skin. Gloves In a Bottle – dry skin care and protection that really works Medloyd Healthcare Tel: 011 397 2717 / 083 653 2719 | Email: rob@medloyd.co.za
1 PUREOLOGY REVIVING RED helps revitalise vibrant shades of red and copper
colour treated hair. Zero Sulfate, oil infused formulas with Jaljala oil and protective plant extracts of encapsulated Lycopene extract, maintains the hair colour vibrancy. To help prevent colour bleed and fading, use the OleoAntiFadeComplex. The range includes the Shampoo, Conditioner, Red and Copper Reflect Enhancers, and Illuminating Caring Oil.
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2 GIOVANNI COSMETICS COLORFLAGE is designed to enhance natural or
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colour- treated hair and to defend against colour fading. The Boldly Black Shampoo and Conditioner contain Boysenberry, Blackberry and Henna extract to bring out the rich depth of black hair and adding shine. Walnut Leaf extract is used for its astringent and conditioning properties, providing nourishment and protection to the scalp while Licorice extract strengthens the scalp.
3 BC COLOR FREEZE SILVER SHAMPOO contains violet colour pigments to actively
support and enrich the shimmer of cool colour directions. The special pigments concentration revives and preserves cool tones, and can reduce warm undertones within the hair. The Colour Freeze Formulation seals the hair surface while freezing colour pigments in place for increased shine and colour retention.
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“The special pigments concentration revives and preserves cool tones” 4 MATRIX TOTAL RESULTS BLONDE CARE range cares and prolongs the radiance of
blonde tones. The shampoo cleanses as it softens and detangles, while the weightless conditioner moisturises intensely. The flash filler Sheer Mist fills in porous hair fibre with every use, instantly sealing the hair cuticle for a lustrous shine. The Sheer Mist formula with UV filters fortifies and maintains brightness of blonde hair.
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5 KÉRASTASE REFLECTION CHROMA RICHE essential duo provides colour
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maintenance and protection for colour-treated or highlighted hair. Gently cleanse the hair using the Bain Chroma Riche Shampoo with UV filter and anti-fading protection. Follow with the Masque Chroma Riche to maximise longevity and radiance of hair colour with reflective shine, while protecting against anti-oxidant aggressors. Leaving the hair feeling nourished, soft and supple.
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6 PUREOLOGY PERFECT 4 PLATINUM RANGE is suitable for colour-treated hair with
four or more levels of lift. The range strengthens high-lifted or highlighted blonde hair. The product formulas contain strengthening Keravis, brightening lemon extract and Antifade complex. The range includes the Perfect 4 Platinum Shampoo, Conditioner, Reconstruct Repair Masque and Miracle Filler Treatment.
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7 MATRIX TOTAL RESULTS COLOR CARE MIRACLE TREAT 12 deeply conditions and
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helps protect colour treated hair for instant silkiness and increased manageability. The light weight spray formula containing Fade Guard Technology with Vitamin E and Sunflower oil, helps prevent breakage, maximises natural body and strengthens the hair for restored shine.
8 DAVINES ALCHEMIC SYSTEM contains pure pigments to enrich the formulas
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of six shampoos and conditioners that enhance reflect of natural and coloured hair. The pigments deposit on the hair shaft, maintaining the reflect intensity between colour services. The range illuminates and accentuates natural colour, while milk proteins deeply moisturise the hair providing internal protection, strength and shine.
9 PAUL MITCHELL FOREVER BLONDE range is powered by the exclusive KerActive protein which "hugs" the hair to help repair damage and safflower oleosomes to seal the cuticle. The sulphate-free Shampoo gently cleanses and keeps blonde hair light, bright and healthy, while the Conditioner is the perfect hydrator for everyday use.
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“Maintaining the reflect intensity between colour services.� The Dramatic Repair is a lightweight yet powerful multitasking corrector with added Macadamia nut oil to assist in smoothing, strengthening and replenishing depleted hair. Brighten blonde, grey and white hair, and banish brassiness with the Platinum Blonde Shampoo. The violet-tinted shampoo for natural and colour treated blondes softens strands and adds shines. 10 BC COLOR FREEZE COLORED ENDS with Color Freeze Formulation seals the
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hair surface while freezing colour pigments in place for colour shine and retention until your next salon visit. The weightless leave-in balm nourishes, seals and prevents split ends while improving combability and leaving the hair silky to the touch.
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11 MATRIX SOCOLOR DREAM AGE provides multi-reflective colour with up to 100 percent grey coverage in a low Ammonia base with pre-softening technology. Light reflective pigments balance to eliminate the need to mix multiple shades. Do not intermix with any other shade series. 12 WELLA PROFESSIONALS ILLUMINA COLOR contains Microlight technology that reduces cuticle damage whilst maintaining its clarity. This exclusive technology allows light to pass through, illuminating natural highs and lows from within the hair in any light. As well as 100 percent sheer grey coverage, blending, pastel toning and glossing. 13 DAVINES A NEW COLOUR is an innovative system in three components for permanent colouring which avoid the use of Ammonia, but instead making use of the properties of natural active ingredients. The versatile colour has a strong anti-oxidant action, is odourless, intense and multifaceted. Available in 43 different shades, A New Colour leaves the hair feeling soft, hydrated and shiny.
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14 SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL IGORA ROYAL features the new High Definition Technology to deliver reliable results in every situation for true, vibrant and lasting colour, even on porous hair. The relaunch brings to life the latest top colour trends: roots in bright colours, Ombre effects from blonde to red and on dark brown or contrasting ends. Re-engineered colour pigment mediums for intensive colours and clearest tone direction are brought together with a new lipid carrier system for amplified penetration into the hair cortex. Therefore the colour is locked into the hair and sealed for longer retention.
“This exclusive technology allows light to pass through.”
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15 MATRIX SOCOLOR COLOR SYNC is a demi-permanent colour with no Ammonia that will enhance, change or intensify natural hair colour. The Cera-oil™ Conditioning Complex helps rebalance porosity for rich and long lasting colour that stays true to tone. Color Sync delivers endless colour services such as colour balancing, toning, colour correction, glossing service, lowlights and grey blending, and coverage.
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16 REDKEN CHROMATICS BEYOND COVER targets the issues that affect greying hair.
Formulated with Argan oil, ceramides and antioxidants Acai and Vitamin E, the hair colour specifically targets the needs of 75-100 percent of grey hair. The zero Ammonia formula contains ODS2 + Protein Extract and Argan Technology, leaving the hair fortified and smoother with lasting condition, while respecting the hairs natural lipid balance.
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17 MATRIX LIGHT MASTER works as a powerful and high-speed lightener with conditioning Panthenol to aid in moisture retention as well as to care for the hair fibre. The formula eliminates warm and yellow undertones to reveal clear ultra-light tones. Light Master creates a higher lift, even on the scalp, and a maximum lift of up to eight levels. 18 GOLDWELL TOPCHIC is available in 130 shades for limitless colour
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possibilities including improved Grey Coverage and the break through Cool Protect Technology for ultimate durability in all cool brown and blonde shades. The new Equalizer System 2.0 smooth’s the cuticle for evenness from roots to tips. While the patented Coenzyme Technology, a creamy-smooth lotion with IntraLipid, prevents hair from damage by neutralising free radicals for brilliant colour, tonality and durability.
19 PAUL MITCHELL INKWORKS semi-permanent hair colours provide intense and vibrant results. The bright pigments are intermixable, making it easy to add some fun to the hair with flashes of colour. Inworks is best used on pre-lightened hair for a more intensive end result. The gentle formulas, with a conditioning base of vegetable proteins, moisturises the hair for a shiny effect.
“The formula eliminates warm yellow undertones.” 20 GOLDWELL NECTAYA Ammonia-free permanent hair colour contains a
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unique combination of technologies that nurture the hair for a healthier feel. Intralipid technology works to replenish lost lipids within the hair. The cream formula, with a pleasant fragrance, is enriched with conditioning Argan Oil for a smooth luxurious feeling.