escapes
Out of Africa
Expect the unexpected in Madagascar by Phongsathorn Koaysomboon
CLOCKWISE, FROM LEFT: JACARANDA TREE AT LAC ANOSY; TRAFFIC IN FRONT OF HOTEL PALISSADRE; CAMELEON AT MALUSEBO FARM.
“Where is that?” I can’t tell you how many times I was asked this question—by friends, colleagues, family members and even complete strangers—when I mentioned I was going to Madagascar. And when the operator at my mobile phone company asked the same question and then, after a few minutes on hold, told me that roaming service would not be available there, I couldn’t help but wonder about the faraway land I was about to visit. OK, I had seen the film Madagascar Madagascar, but this was a cartoon, not the National Geographic Channel. I didn’t have a clue, but anyone familiar with this incredible country—ecotourists and environmental experts, for the most part—will tell you just how amazing it is, where much of the plant and animal life is unlike anywhere else. Though, honestly, before the trip I was more eagerly anticipating the opening of Siam Paragon, my visit to Madagascar opened my eyes to this part of the world and left a bigger impression on me than any shopping mall ever could. Madagascar is the world’s fourth-biggest island, located 400km from Mozambique. Scientists say that the island separated from the African continent over 120 million years ago and was settled by people from—believe it or not—the Malaysian and Indonesian islands 1,000-2,500 years ago. Which means that it’s not just the plants and the animals that are different—it’s also the people, language, culture and traditions.
Welcome to the Capital
After eight hours crossing the Indian Ocean, we touched down at Antananarivo’s Ivato International Airport at 5:30am. The weather was chilly, but the early morning sun was warm. Antananarivo (also called Tana) is the capital city of Madagascar and similar to Bangkok or any other major metropolis: crowded, polluted and noisy.
The main thoroughfare, L’Avenue de l’Independance, which is modeled on the Champs-Elysées in Paris (just like our Ratchadamnoen Avenue), is especially busy during the day; disconcertingly, it also has a lot (I repeat: a lot lot) of beggars wandering around. The Malagasies are a mix of Asian and African blood, most of them more Asian than African. They speak French, and the architecture, legal system, culture and art reflect Madagascar’s French colonial past. In fact, if you replaced the Malagasies with Europeans, you’d think you were in one of the ancient cities of Europe. But once the sun goes down, all of the people leave and the town goes silent. The city can be roughly separated into three districts: The upper district is a residential area of the wealthy; the middle district is occupied by the middle class and contains the business area and hotels; the lower district is where the poor live. Lac Anosy (Lake Anosy) is the heart of town, surrounded by plenty of Jacaranda trees that are accented with beautiful bright-purple flowers. At the center of the lake is the Monument aux Morts, an angelic sculpture dedicated to local soldiers who fought with the French in 1895. At night, expatriates start roaming for food. Tana has several French fine dining venues. One is Ku De Ta (15 Rue de la Réunion, Isoraka)—a play on the term “Coup d’état”—which I didn’t enjoy nearly as much as my French friend, who claimed that the food was quite good. After dinner we stopped by the famed Pandora (Downtown, Near Hôtel Colbert) for drinks. Decorated in a wild style, this place is famous among expats and teenagers. The drinks are nice, the music isn’t too out-of-date, but the place doesn’t really pick up until later. Oh, and if you’re male, you’ll probably be approached by many “girls with prices.”
Jan 20-26, 2006
BK Magazine
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escapes
Johnnie
CLOCKWISE: HANGING OUT; SOUNDS OF THE STREET; RANAVALONA RESIDENCE.
Turn Back Time
To learn more about the history of Madagascar, you can try The Queen’s Palace, but as it was undergoing renovations when we visited, we traveled 20km to the north to the hilltop Palace of King Ambohimanga, one of the most sacred places for the Malagasies and a UNESCO world heritage site. Madagascar was ruled by monarchs for hundreds of years. King Ambohimanga (1788-1810) was the first to successfully unite every district together as one kingdom. Almost a hundred years later, however, the French invaded the country, and it remained colonized until the 1960s. The Palace is comprised of two residences from two dynasties. The older of the two, owned by King Ambohimanga, is of simple construction with local woods and is painted black. Inside, there’s only one pillar supporting the whole house: The house symbolizes the universe, and the pillar symbolizes the king, who is responsible for taking care of everything. The newer residence was built by the Ranavalona dynasty, whose members were passionate about western culture. Ancient pictures show them dressed as Europeans, and their houses were decorated in western style with four-post beds and kitchen utensils from abroad.
Slim On Shopping
Sorry, shopaholics, but Antananarivo doesn’t boast any huge shopping malls. Most people load up at French discount stores such as Jumbo, which are scattered around the city and stock imported French goods. For souvenirs, head to La Dique, a market in the north of the city with long rows of tiny shops along the road peddling local and handmade products. Beware of those items that are not really from Madagascar (such as T-shirts made in Thailand!)—and bargain, bargain, bargain.
Grand Pearl
Into Nature, Into Lemurs
An icon of the island, you can’t visit Madagascar without ogling some lemurs. Lemurs are primates (monkeys with tails), which means they are close to apes (monkeys without tails), which means they are close to us (monkeys with clothes). There are approximately 40 kinds of lemurs still in existence worldwide—blame humans for the 16 that are extinct—and 90% of them reside in Madagascar. There are two choices for observing lemurs: If you are the kind of person who loves climbing hills and traipsing through the forest, you can see lemurs in their natural habitat. Visit just about any national park, such as Andasibe National Park, 170km from Antananarivo, and you’re bound to spot them hanging in the trees. But if you prefer sweat-free clothes and photos of the lovely creatures, head to Malusebo Farm, 140km to the north of the city, the home-sweet-home of lemurs and other animals, many of which are unique to Madagascar. These include chameleons, frogs, geckos, butterflies and insects. Want to get close? Just hold out a banana, and you’ll soon have at least one new friend. Don’t worry: They don’t bite; besides, here they’ve all received their shots.
Jan 20-26, 2006
BK Magazine
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escapes
CLOCKWISE, FROM LEFT: CACAO FRUIT; LA DIQUE; B10 WORTH OF STRAWBERRIES; CITROEN 2CV TAXI; ROOM AT VAKONA LODGE; "RUBIES" FOR SALE ON THE STREET; LOVELY LEMURS.
Another option is Vakona Forest Lodge’s Lemur Island, which has a reserve where lemurs run free. En
route from town to the farm, you’ll pass through tiny Moramanga City. If you’re hungry, stop at the tiny restaurant Au Coq d’Or (Moramanga, [261] 20-56-62045), which serves good Chinese food. Try the boiled chicken with coke, spring rolls and Lavazza coffee.
Where to Stay
There are a lot of fairly comfortable and convenient places to stay in Madagascar, and the service is European standard (in a good way). Don’t judge Hôtel Royal Palissandre (13 Rue Andriandahifotsy, Faravohitra, (261) 20-22-236-14/-16, www.hotel-palissandre.com; €80-161) by its dull exterior (or the website)— the real thing is better. Located in a small but busy hilltop alley, the hotel has 46 rooms on four floors. The charming
décor is a blend of European and local style, and every room has a balcony. Ask for a room on the city-side so you can enjoy the panoramic views. Feeling glamorous? The Hôtel Corbert (BP 341, (261) 20-22-202-02, www.colbert-hotel.com; €65255) is the most luxurious hotel in town, on par with the Oriental Bangkok. For lake views and Tana's best swimming pool, rest your head at the Hilton Madagascar (Rue Pierre Stibbe, Anosy, (261) 22-26060, www.madagascar.hilton.com; €150-210), which offers all of Hilton’s standard amenities. Who said you can’t find comfort in the forest? Even ladies-who-lunch will sleep soundly at the Vakona Forest Lodge (Rue Rabolalahy, www.hotel-vakona.com; MGA70,00080,000). Nestled between rainforest and mountains, the resort is European standard (also in a good way).
Getting Around
Citroën 2CV taxis are plentiful in the city, and the drivers can speak limited English. You’ll pay MGA200500 to most city destinations. There are plenty of rental car companies, but it’s better to contact a travel agent as they usually also provide you with a local guide.
Getting There
Air Madagascar (11/F, ITF Tower 2, 140/19 Silom
Rd., 02-235-8226/-9, www.airmadagascar.com) operates direct flights from Bangkok to Antananarivo twice a week (Monday and Thursday). The Eco-Tourism Andasibe package is priced at B46,800 for three nights, including a roundtrip ticket, all meals and sightseeing. €1 is approximately B50. MGA1,000 is approximately B22.5. MGF1,000 is approximately B4.5. n
Win!
MADAGASCAR FACTS 1.
2.
Antananarivo is the capital city. Local people call it
from the native language. Those who can speak
official types of banknotes: Madagascar Ariary (MGA),
Tana. Tourism destinations are Andasibe National
English are limited to staff at hotels or tourist attrac-
which is official, and Madagascar Franc (MGF), which
Park, Sainte Marie Island and Nosy Be Island. Tana
tions. Especially if you’re traveling alone, practice
is officially obsolete but some local vendors still use
can be very dangerous at night.
some French.
it. The Ariary is worth around five times more than
To avoid unpleasant surprises, such being bombard-
Franc. Convert your baht at home into Euros or
Thais and Malagasies have been visiting each other for a long time for business purposes such as trading
ed by beggars (or worse), hire a guide through a
in precious stones. Uncut stones of often question-
tourist company, and make sure the guide has a
able quality can be purchased from vendors on
license from the local tourism authority.
November, when the weather is more pleasant. Most
Check the banknotes carefully when you get change.
hotels and resorts have high- and low-season rates.
busy streets. 3.
14
4.
5.
Most Malagasies can speak French very well, apart
BK Magazine
Jan 20-26, 2006
Madagascar has two currencies, so there are two
US dollars. 6.
The best period to travel is April-May and October-
Air Madagascar has five metal-and-leather pocket business card holders to give away. The question: “What’s the official currency of Madagascar?” Where to send your answer: pkoaysomboon @asia-city.co.th.