Braai House Chef de Cuisine Julian Palmer
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AN E M B A R R A SSMEN T OF RICH ES: MARVELING AT KEYSTONE HOSPITALITY’S FOODIE EMPIRE WORDS & PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN
‘The recipe for that dollop of peri-peri alone
lemons worth of peels three separate times
was years in the making,’ Chef de Cuisine
for each batch of peri-peri – and add lots of
Julian Palmer tells me as I scoop a bit onto my
white vinegar.’
fork and touch it to my tongue. The flavour is electrifying – smoky, spicy, complex. A triumph. Julian continues: ‘Chef [Arron Carley] and I began experimenting with ingredients three years ago – trialing with smoked chilies, white onion, lemons.’ I portion a few drops of the sauce onto a piece of the succulent duck with which it’s been paired and take a bite. The flavours of the peri-peri and duck are definitively complementary – and utterly satisfying. As I bask in the flavour rush, Julian continues what has been an illuminating commentary on the fabulous items he has prepared: ‘We blanch and shock sixteen
White vinegar? ‘It’s often used in South African cooking,’ Julian adds matter-offactly. Ah, of course. South African cooking: the (wonderfully-)inescapable theme of this whirlwind junket of Stratford-based Keystone Hospitality’s triad of South Africaninspired culinary gems. There’s BRCH & Wyn: a daytime café that transforms into a tapas-style wine bar in the evening. And Brü Garden: Keystone’s fantastic backyard beer garden. And this place: Braai House. Located downtown, this upscale restaurant – which specializes in South African-inspired, open-
