TOQUE 23 - The Food Issue

TOQUE

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Upcoming Exhibitions

CAi

cai@toque.ltd

CHRIS

chris@toque.ltd

Contributors: Jeyas Balaskanthan, Candice Konrad, Dani Kuepfer, Christina Mann & Monica Mazun.

FASTWÜRMS: #VOLCANO LOV3R

25 May - 22 September 2024

Billy Gauthier: Sila

22 June - 20 October 2024

We want to use this space to give a 'shout out' to all the fantastic advertising partners who have supported TOQUE through the years. These days, when it's tempting to dump an entire marketing budget into social channels and online ad spots, it takes a discerning mind (along with imagination and courage) to invest in the community-minded stories and images TOQUE offers. Like so many of you, we continue to believe in the unique tactility and compelling impact of the kind of print medium we strive to be. So to all of our incredible advertisers who continue to believe with us and in us: the love is mutual.

SEPULIS, partner art director. design & illustration

TIESSEN, partner editor. writing & photography

Billy Gauthier, Swimming Loons (My Tribute to Kenojuak Ashevak) (detail), 2010. Muskox horn, moose antler, serpentine,

BACK IN JANUARY, DURING OUR WEEK OR SO OF WINTER, JUST SHY OF ONE MILLION CANADIAN BUSINESSES WERE DIRECTED TO REPAY (OR, AT SUBSTANTIAL BORROWING COSTS, BEGIN REPAYING) FEDERAL CEBA (CANADIAN EMERGENCY BUSINESS ACCOUNT) LOANS THAT HAD BEEN MADE AVAILABLE TO THEM DURING

THE PANDEMIC. THIS CREDIT HAD BEEN MEANT TO ALLEVIATE THE FINANCIAL STRAIN THESE ENTERPRISES ENDURED THROUGH SO MANY LOCKDOWNS, RESTRICTIONS, AND OTHER PANDEMIC-RELATED MANDATES; IN REALITY IT FUNCTIONED, FOR SO MANY OF THESE SMALL BUSINESSES, AS LITTLE MORE THAN A LIMITED STOPGAP MEASURE – A PROVERBIAL BAND-AID SOLUTION – THAT DID LITTLE TO MITIGATE THE WEIGHTY FINANCIAL

BURDENS THEY HAD BEEN FORCED TO SHOULDER.

A DISPROPORTIONATELY HIGH PERCENTAGE OF BUSINESSES WHO APPLIED FOR THESE LOANS ARE IN THE FOODSERVICE INDUSTRY. AND NO WONDER: BUSINESSES IN THIS INDUSTRY – FROM RESTAURANTS TO BREWPUBS – HAD EXPERIENCED THE HARSHEST LOCKDOWNS IN NORTH AMERICA. IN OUR REGION ALONE, RESTAURANTS WERE SHUTTERED FOR ALMOST FOUR HUNDRED DAYS: OVER A FULL YEAR OF POTENTIAL BUSINESS. AND WITH RECORD HIGH INFLATION, RISING FOOD COSTS, AND CONTINUING LABOUR SHORTAGES IN THE INDUSTRY, THINGS CERTAINLY HAVEN’T GOTTEN EASIER. AS IT STANDS, UP TO TWO HUNDRED THOUSAND BUSINESSES WILL NOT BE ABLE TO REPAY THEIR CEBA LOANS. MOREOVER, FOR EVERY RESTAURANT THAT OPENS ITS DOORS THIS YEAR, TWO WILL BE SHUTTERED FOR GOOD.

WHILE THESE NUMBERS ARE CERTAINLY HARD TO SWALLOW, THEY’RE ALSO FOOD FOR THOUGHT. IT’S WORTH OBSERVING THAT TRADITIONALLY BUSINESSES IN THE FOOD INDUSTRY – RESTAURANTS, CAFÉS, BARS, BREWPUBS, AND MORE – HAVE SERVED AS PLACES OF REFUGE. FROM WORRY. AND STRESS. AND THE DISQUIETUDE OF IT ALL. THEY HAVE FUNCTIONED AS GATHERING PLACES WHERE – IF ONLY FOR AN HOUR OR TWO (OR, ON REALLY MEMORABLE NIGHTS, FIVE OR SIX) – FOLKS COME TOGETHER WITH FRIENDS AND KIN AND STRANGERS ALIKE TO BREAK BREAD. LAUGH. SHOUT. MAKE MERRY. THESE ESTABLISHMENTS HAVE PERFORMED AS SORTS OF LIFEBUOYS IN THE TEMPESTS OF OUR UNCERTAIN WORLD. THEY HAVE PROVIDED FOR US. KEPT US FED. NOURISHED OUR SOULS. BUT NOW SO MANY OF THEM REMAIN IN DISTRESS.

WE FIRMLY BELIEVE THAT IT’S IMPERATIVE TO SUPPORT OUR FOODSERVICE INDUSTRY AS IT HAS SUPPORTED US. FOR WHILE THE RAVAGING OF THE PANDEMIC MIGHT SEEM LIKE A THING OF THE PAST, THE EFFECTS OF ITS MANDATED LOCKDOWNS ON CANADIAN BUSINESSES IS STILL SORELY FELT. WHAT BETTER WAY TO STAND IN SOLIDARITY WITH YOUR FAVOURITE LOCAL THAN BY ENJOYING A MEAL, OR A PINT, OR A MEAL AND A PINT, IN ITS DINING ROOM. OR ON ITS PATIO (IN THE COMING WEEKS). OR WITH CARTONS OF TAKE-OUT. SO GATHER WITH FRIENDS. SIT SHOULDER TO SHOULDER WITH STRANGERS. LAUGH. SHOUT. AND THEN LAUGH SOME MORE. HELP KEEP OUR COMMUNITIES’ LIFEBUOYS AFLOAT.

IN THIS ISSUE OF TOQUE WE OFFER UP A FEW DOZEN SUGGESTIONS FOR FANTASTIC REGIONAL FARE. AND IN PAST ISSUES OF THE MAGAZINE, WE HAVE OFFERED UP HUNDREDS MORE. SO HAVE A READ. CHOOSE AN ESTABLISHMENT. FILL YOUR STOMACH. YOU’LL BE DOING THE LORD’S WORK.

WELCOME TO ‘THE FOOD ISSUE’.

illustration: Cai Sepulis @caisepulis

(RE-)INTRODUCING BARDŌ: WHERE GOOD INGREDIENTS STILL MATTER

WORDS & PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN

‘It looks like they’ve still got the ‘Bee Sting’,’ I remark to my TOQUE co-pilot Cai as we peruse the menu to see what’s for lunch. Unable to suppress a rush of excitement, I add: ‘That was always my favourite pizza at Bread Bar.’ Spicy salami, red sauce, mozza, basil, lemon ricotta, chili oil, and honey (by Thurston Honey Bee Co in Guelph) – what’s not to love? ‘And ‘Princess Pickle’, too,’ Cai adds, spotting the fabulous ‘za that was always a dark horse treasure on the Bread Bar menu we remember. White sauce, mozza, chicken, garlic, breadcrumbs, chili flake, ranch, and of course sweet pickles and dill. I keep scanning and spot a handful of other ‘old faithful’ pies: ‘Meat Mountain’, ‘Apple & Bacon’, and the classic ‘Margherita’ too. I am relieved. After all, Bread Bar was a go-to spot for Cai and me precisely because its fantastic menu items – pizzas and sandwiches and pastas and

salads and more – were always inventive, ever inspired, and consistently delicious.

When we heard that the former Bread Bar (one of several branches of Pearle Hospitality, the superpower hospitality and development group that also owns the stunning Elora Mill Hotel & Spa, Cambridge Mill, Whistle Bear Golf Club, and more exquisite destinations) was about to re-name itself Bardō, we were nervous that the proverbial baby (or, in this case, ‘Bee Sting’) might be thrown out with the bath water. At first glance, though, it appears that Bardō has done right by its devoted Bread Bar fans – very nicely evolving (without exploding) the brand. We’ll have to keep digging (read: eating) to find out more.

It's a Tuesday in March, just after noon, and Cai and I have traveled into Hamilton from Guelph to find out what this re-naming, Bardō, is all about. And while we probably could have done this research in the Royal City (after all, Guelph has a fantastic Bread Bar-turned-Bardō location where my oldest kiddo works as a cook), we’ve come to the Hammer because it’s here, in a charming old building on Locke Street, that Bread Bar was born. And it’s here, at the original Bread Bar location, where the Bardō brand has been fully realized with a halfmillion dollar interior makeover. While other Bardō locations (in Guelph, as mentioned, and on James Street in Hamilton) are also open for business, they have not, as of yet, undergone major interior revamps.

As Cai continues to read the menu, I look around. Just a few weeks ago this space was dominated by darker hues – smoky blues and crimson reds – that generated a moody atmosphere. Now it has been transformed into an exercise in light and airy minimalism. Large white textured and back-lit abstract art

pieces hang on brilliant, white-painted brick walls. Off-white tables paired with uncoated wooden chairs (featuring pumpkin-orange cushions) rest on wide-plank chevron wood flooring. Light wood accents (including the ceiling supports, lattice work above the bar, and host station) create a breathy, natural vibe throughout. Floor-to-ceiling windows at the front of the restaurant allow the natural noonhour light to splash across the first couple rows of tables and contribute to the airy feel. These are complemented by the pseudo open concept kitchen at the back, which validates the restaurant’s transparent approach to quality ingredients. Indeed, the only darker tones remaining in the completely overhauled establishment are a few teal-coloured accent walls that serve beautifully to tie everything together. As if on cue, behind me a small group saunters through the front door and exclaim how cheerful the place looks. Mission accomplished, then. Now back to the food.

After almost no debate, Cai and I land on what we’d like to share for lunch: a ‘Bee Sting’,

Bardō Executive Chef & Culinary Lead Cameron Bell

of course, along with an ‘Heirloom Beet Salad’ (another favourite) and ‘Loaded Fries’ (a daily creation that, on this Tuesday, is an Asian-inspired concoction with a green onion and sesame glaze). And for drinks: pints of Cowbell Brewing Co’s ‘Hazy Days’ IPA from the restaurant’s ever-revolving taps. It’s not long before our food is served and I’m indulging in the curiously complementary flavours of spicy salami, lemon ricotta, and local honey. ‘This has got to be among the best pizza in the whole region,’ I mumble to Cai as I stuff a renegade hunk of ricotta into my mouth. Right up there with Roy’s (Guelph), Willibald (Ayr), Shorty’s (Hamilton), La Fontana (Elora), and Graffiti (Kitchener). Near the back of the restaurant, a line of patrons order pizza by the slice for take-out. Cai and I spot someone we recognize from Dundurn Market and Mulberry Coffeehouse who grabs pizza to-go before joining a friend on a bench on the other side of the restaurant’s front window. All around us diners revel in their food, their friends, and these new digs. Above the din, I make out some divine harmony by Swedish folk duo First Aid Kit. Lovely. Upbeat. Digestible. Like everything in this luminous place.

Some time during our meal, Bardō Executive Chef & Culinary Lead Cameron Bell, who has been busy with his team in the kitchen crafting home runs for today’s lunch, swings by our

table to answer any questions we have about the new place. I’m quick to ask about menu changes, hoping that much of the Bread Bar menu will indeed be absorbed at Bardō. ‘There actually haven’t been any out-of-the-ordinary changes,’ Chef Cam tells me, adding: ‘We’re continuing to offer the same classics alongside some seasonal changes and additions twice a year.’ He goes on: ‘And our motto, ‘Good Ingredients Matter’, remains the same.’ A watchword that’s presented proudly in backlit letters on the wall just above the opening to the kitchen – and an ethos that Chef Cam and the Bardō team take to heart. Indeed, the Bardō menu not only prioritizes quality ingredients from regional partners (like the aforementioned Thurston honey, for example); it also incorporates many ingredients sourced directly from Pearle Hospitality’s ninety-sevenacre farm (located in Flamborough). ‘From late spring to early fall, the majority of the greens we use in our salads are sourced from the farm,' Chef Cam tells me. ' Moreover,’ he continues, ‘each year the farm’s Operations Manager Carl Lesli works with me and other Pearle location chefs to plan which organic vegetables we’d like to use in the coming season.’ Bardō’s motto is indeed its word. And, as the Wu-Tang Clan taught my generation, word is bond.

As Cai and I chat with Chef Cam, I notice the long wooden table beside us (a perfect companion to the smaller white tables throughout the rest of the space) being laden with a small army of dishes: a ‘Margherita’ pizza, and ‘Calamari’ (with cocktail sauce, lemon, chorizo, chilies, and garlic), ‘Creamy Hummus’ (with crispy chickpea, lemon zest, parsley, za’atar spice, and house toast), ‘Bread Plate’ (with roasted beet butter, pepitas, pome fruit & caramelized onion chutney, hummus, and cheesy toast with za’atar), ‘Loaded Fries’ (this time with loads of parmesan), ‘Umami Burger’ (with beef patty, mushroom, pickled red onion, truffle aioli, parm crisp, and umami sauce), and more. ‘We thought you might want to try some more of our menu items,’ Chef tells us before motioning Cai and me to the larger table.

I'm more than a bit overwhelmed. While I may have a reputation as someone who can put back food, this spread will certainly test my mettle – in the tastiest way. Although Cai and I don’t manage to clear the table, we do put a good dent in it. And enjoy every bite. I make a mental note to order the ‘Umami Burger’ next time I’m in. Cai can’t stop talking about the 'Calamari'. And we’re both impressed by the 'Creamy Hummus' and the 'Bread Plate' – replete with smoldering rosemary sprig.

As Cai and I cheerfully divide left-overs and pack them to enjoy at home, I’m already scheming my next trip to Bardō – either here or closer to home, in Guelph. For lunch again. Or dinner – which features a more expansive menu including Bardō’s widely-loved pasta dishes. Or for Sunday brunch – a fan favourite for which reservations are certainly recommended.

The nineteenth-century French writer Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr is credited with having invented the proverb, 'the more things change, the more they stay the same.' After our delectable adventure at Bardō, Cai and I agree that his insight is well worth pondering.

CRAFTING MEMORIES

ONE BITE AT A TIME

Embrace the flavours of your neighbourhood, celebrate a vibrant sense of community, and support local farmers and makers.

for more info about group bookings and events visit neighbourhoodgroup.com

DAYTRIPPIN’

A CULINARY ENTREPRENEUR AND HIS DEAR FRIEND AND COLLEAGUE, A SMALL BUSINESS CHAMPION, SHARE THEIR FAVOURITE SATURDAY HAUNTS IN AND AROUND LONDON'S CORE.

BRYAN LAVERY WITH KATHY MCLAUGHLIN

(OWNER, FOREST CITY CULINARY EXPERIENCES)

(BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER, DOWNTOWN LONDON)

When culinary insiders and slow food enthusiasts Bryan Lavery and Kathy McLaughlin aren't touting London's gastro scene or shaping Forest City food and drink tours and experiences as part of their day jobs, they’re still poking about London’s foodie scene for hidden treasures and future inspiration. Come along with these committed pedestrians while they guide us through their London stomping grounds and beyond.

BILLY’S DELI RESTAURANT

113 DUNDAS ST, LONDON

BILLYSDELIRESTAURANT.CA

COVENT GARDEN MARKET

130 KING ST, LONDON

COVENTMARKET.COM

ATTIC BOOKS

240 DUNDAS ST, LONDON

ATTICBOOKS.CA

JONATHON BANCROFT-SNELL GALLERY

258 DUNDAS ST, LONDON

JONATHONS.CA

1. A usual Saturday morning begins at Billy's Deli, a downtown London landmark. Kathy and I are long-time devotees of the place’s potato latke breakfast: golden-brown crispy potato pancakes served with a choice of ham, bacon (four slices), Oktoberfest sausage, or Montreal smoked meat; two eggs (your way); toast; jam; sour cream; and house-made apple sauce. Lately, Billy's has been running a smoked salmon eggs benedict latke blackboard breakfast special on the weekends that’s to die for. Billy's is known for its Mennonite-inspired baking – following tradition for their signature seasonal ‘schmecky pies’.

2. After breakfast we head to Covent Garden Market where we continue our morning with a jolt by grabbing fair trade lattés at Hasbeans – a premier artisanal coffee roaster and retailer that has been a staple at the Market for five generations. Live wire and stellar barista Joel McMillan continues the family tradition. While at the Market, we always stop at one of the many indie food vendors (no corporate chains allowed). One of our favourites is New Delhi Deli – a bustling open kitchen where Bhan Mudliar and her sidekick, Seema Narayan, offer a diverse range of delicious dishes including oxtail, curried goat, onion bhajis, and curried chicken. During warmer months Kathy and I share our passion for locally-grown food at Covent Garden’s outdoor Farmers' Market. All the vendors selling here ‘grow it, raise it, bake it, or make it.’

3. After the Market, Kathy and I drop by Attic Books – one of Canada's premier retail locations for antiquarian and collectable books and one of Canada's largest bookstores. I especially love to drop by the shop, located across from the Central Library, to find vintage short story collections, cookbooks, and other culinary ephemera. A large and diverse stock of antique books, maps, and prints are on offer. It’s always great to enjoy the relaxed atmosphere of this three-floor bookstore – its century building atmosphere enhanced by original tin ceilings, hardwood maple floors, and the arts & crafts facade.

4. Next up: a visit to the Jonathon Bancroft-Snell Gallery – a must-visit destination for anyone interested in ceramics. Jonathon and his associates act as patrons for the numerous leading ceramic artists from across Canada whose work is featured here. What Kathy and I love most about this place is that it provides a comprehensive and knowledgeable representation of Canadian ceramics while, at the same time, offering the opportunity for admirers and collectors to find unique, high-quality pieces.

ÜBER COOL STUFF

122 DUNDAS ST, LONDON UBERCOOLSTUFF.COM

MUSEUM LONDON

421 RIDOUT ST N, LONDON MUSEUMLONDON.CA

5. An enticing foil to the elevated ceramics at the Jonathon Bancroft-Snell Gallery is Über Cool Stuff – an indie retailer that enjoys well-earned street cred as a unique geek boutique. A quirky inventory that satisfies the wishes of world-weary pop-culture enthusiasts makes this intimate shop always a fun place to explore. Popular board games, sassy kitchen wares, hilarious greeting cards, and many other cool things make this an ideal place to browse and stock up on gifts. Kathy refers to Über Cool Stuff as ‘honest-to-goodness retail therapy.’

6. After enjoying the inevitable chuckles provoked by Über Cool Stuff, we make our way to Museum London to see what the Museum’s exhibitions, programming galleries, and shop have on offer. While here we always make sure to pop into the Rhino Lounge for one of Michele Lenhard's delicious savoury pies, then to the River Room for panoramic views overlooking artist Ron Benner’s garden installation, ‘As the Crow Flies’, as well as the forks of the Thames and the old courthouse. To note: Sunday brunch at the Rhino Lounge features sublime eggs benedict with perfectly poached eggs and delicious hollandaise as well as classic cobb salad with grilled chicken, crisp bacon, blue cheese, hard-boiled egg, chopped tomato, and cucumbers. We’ll have to come back for this delicious classic.

BLACKFRIARS BISTRO & CATERING

46 BLACKFRIARS ST, LONDON BLACKFRIARSBISTRO.COM

7. By now Kathy and I are more than ready to fill our bellies again, so we meander over to the farm-to-table Blackfriars Bistro and its adjoining Emporio – a gourmet specialty store and bakery. Along the way, we pass Eldon House (London's oldest continuous residence offering tours) and cross the iconic wrought-iron bowstring arch truss Blackfriars Bridge. Blackfriars Bistro is renowned for its classic award-winning French and Italian cuisine that incorporates fresh, quality, local ingredients into each dish. We share the beet-cured gravlax and a decadent slice of stilton and port cheesecake. I have a long affiliation with this restaurant as a chef and as one of its original partners. I’ve also had my hand in curating some of the Emporio's unique slow food-inspired products.

ARVA FLOUR MILLS

2042 ELGIN ST, ARVA ARVAFLOURMILLS.COM

8. For our last stop of the day, we decide to rest our feet and instead have our friend (and Blackfriars baker) Gary Rowsell take us to Arva Flour Mills, a short drive north of London along the banks of Medway Creek. Established in 1819, Arva Flour Mills is Canada's oldest continuously operating waterpowered flour mill; indeed, half the mill still runs on water power. The place offers a vast inventory of organic, natural, and locally-sourced products. We pick up baking staples like Red Fife, gluten-free, and heirloom flours, and Red River cereal. Visiting the bucolic mill and hearing the water-powered turbines hearkens us back to simpler times and provides a bucolic backdrop to a full day well spent .

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BITE ME!

PREAMBLE & PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN

JAMES BEARD ONCE SUGGESTED THAT ‘TOO FEW PEOPLE UNDERSTAND A REALLY GOOD SANDWICH.’ WHILE THE FAMOUS CHEF MIGHT HAVE HAD A CASE, THE TOQUE TEAM IS HAPPY TO REPORT THAT – AFTER UNDERTAKING SOME TASTY RESEARCH – AT LEAST A HANDFUL OF FOLKS AROUND THESE PARTS UNDERSTAND EXACTLY WHAT CONSTITUTES A SWEET SAMMY. AT NUMEROUS REGIONAL POP-UPS AND BODEGAS, NEIGHBOURHOOD GROCERS AND UPTOWN UPSTARTS, AND FURTHER AFIELD TOO, ‘REALLY GOOD SANDWICHES’ ABOUND. AND THAT’S A REALLY GOOD THING.

PEEP GAME.

HARPER’S DELI

‘Trio’ (lettuce, provolone, tomato, onion, oil-vinegar on a sesame seed submarine bun – add bomba & olive salad)

@HARPERSDELI POP-UP AT BABYLON SISTERS WINE & COCKTAIL BAR 23 KING ST N, WATERLOO

@ANGELINOSMARKET_GUELPH

16 STEVENSON ST S, GUELPH

'Chicken Parm' (house-breaded chicken, mozza, oven-roasted peppers, mushroom & onions, red sauce on a panini)

ANGELINO’S FRESH CHOICE MARKET

EBY STREET BODEGA

@EBYSTREETBODEGA

16 EBY ST N, KITCHENER

‘The Claro’ (Spanish style pork shoulder, manchego, roasted garlic potatoes, salsa brava, roasted red peppers, organic greens, garlic mayo on a Roux Bakehouse hoagie bun) & ‘Eby Does It’ (turkey, melted swiss, avocado, roasted red pepper, preserved tomato, organic greens, garlic poblano cream on a Roux Bakehouse hoagie bun)

@SHOP.ARTIES

170 LOCKE ST S, HAMILTON

ARTIE’S ‘Turkey Swiss’ (turkey, swiss, garlic mayo, crispy onions, honey mustard, caramelized onions, arugula on fresh-baked focaccia) & ‘Mortadella’ (mortadella, provolone, pecorino, garlic mayo, confit leeks, mustard, arugula, lemon on fresh-baked focaccia)

POPPY’S BAGEL AND BAKERY

@ATPOPPYS

35 KING ST N, WATERLOO

‘The Poppy’ (Montreal smoked meat, swiss, hot mustard, pickled onion, pickle, mayo on a sesame seed bagel) & ‘The Kyrie’ (sliced turkey, bacon, havarti, avocado, apple slaw, mayo, secret sauce on a poppy seed bagel)

MEET YOUR MAKER

BEARFACE DESIGN

MOST IMPORTANT TOOL? my brain

FAVORITE MARKET? Stitch ‘n’ Kitch

FOLKS YOU ADMIRE?

Jon Kutt (@the_high_road_ design), Aaron Draplin (@ draplin), Chip Kidd (@chip__ kidd)

FAVE LOCAL WATERING HOLE(S)S?

Shortfinger Brewing, Jane Bond Café, Sidewalk Beer Shop

MENTION THE NAME ‘BEARFACE’ TO ANYONE IN THE KITCHENER-WATERLOO CREATIVE SCENE AND YOU’LL ALMOST CERTAINLY OBSERVE A SMILE OF ACKNOWLEDGMENT. THAT’S BECAUSE BEARFACE DESIGN, OR JON JOHNSON, SPENDS HIS TIME COLLECTING PALS AND MAKING COOL STUFF FOR FRIENDLY FOLKS. PITHY SCREEN-PRINTED TEES. NIFTY ENAMEL PINS. KILLER GIG POSTERS. SWEET BEER LABELS. JON DESCRIBES HIMSELF AS A ‘FREELANCE GRAPHIC DESIGNER AND SCREEN PRINTER WITH A PRODUCT LINE’ WHO MELDS ‘POSITIVE MESSAGING WITH A DARK TWIST.’ LIKE HAPPY GHOSTS. FUN REAPERS. FLOWERY SKULLS. YOU MIGHT SAY HE'S INTO KILLING FOLKS WITH KINDNESS, ONE UNIQUE DESIGN AFTER ANOTHER. HUNT FOR BEARFACE AT A MAKER MARKET NEAR YOU.

brfc

BRFC

ROUX BAKEHOUSE: FEEDING THE SOUL

By the time I arrive at the bakery the sun has only just risen. All across the region blearyeyed school children are being roused from their beds while an army of commuters fill thermoses with hot stuff before loading into vehicles and heading off to work. The day is just beginning. And yet at Roux Bakehouse – a cute bakery-meets-café-meets-grocer nestled into Kitchener’s vibrant Belmont Village strip –things have been rolling for hours.

I step in the front door and am immediately seized by the action all around me. Towards the back of the cozy five-hundred-andsomething-square-foot space, bakery coowner (and lead baker) Hayley Turnbull feeds croissant dough through a dough sheeter.

Just a few feet to Hayley’s right, baker Jessicca pulls a batch of freshly baked loaves from the

place’s hard-working oven. To Hayley’s left, pans of unbaked tomato and herb focaccia proof on a crowded counter. Directly behind her, still-warm sourdough loaves (with names like ‘Country’ and ‘Whole Wheat’ and ‘Pain de Mie’) rest on a pan rack – waiting their turn to be set out on the simple wooden shelving unit behind the counter up front. Rich aromas of raw and baked sourdough merge with the cacophonic sounds of baking machinery – creating a most unique multi-sensory symphony. Things are rolling indeed.

‘Early mornings are definitely the name of the game in our business,’ Roux co-owner (and Hayley’s business partner) Amy Grimba tells me while she straightens a row of bagged coffee beans (roasted by Roux at KW Coffee Collective) perched along a minimalist wooden

WORDS & PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN

shelf. As I lift my Nikon to fire a few shots of the Roux-branded bags, Amy seems to balk. ‘I was sort of hoping you wouldn’t shoot these,’ she laughs – half-covering the bags with a free hand. Before I can ask why, she continues: ‘While the bakery’s core branding is complete, and exemplifies what we’re about as a business, we’re still fiddling with package design. These bags,’ she adds, ‘like most of our packaging, will undergo a facelift – when we manage to find the time.’

Ah yes – time: a most precious commodity that’s been in very short supply at Roux Bakehouse ever since Amy and Hayley first opened the business just this past September, during Belmont Village’s bustling annual Bestival neighbourhood festival. ‘It’s been a whirlwind, that’s for sure,’ Amy laughs while she continues to make sure that everything at the front of the space is neat and tidy. ‘Hayley and I met less than two years ago in a commercial kitchen space we were both using. At the time I was selling dairy products across Waterloo Region under the moniker ‘The Milkman’s Daughter’ while Hayley was offering

baked goods at the Kitchener Farmers’ Market as ‘Palmer Baked Goods’.’ It wasn’t long before the two entrepreneurs realized that they shared a dream of opening their own brick and mortar storefront. And so they decided to do it – together. From meet cute to business partners in the blink of an eye. Almost.

By March of last year, Hayley and Amy located this space in Belmont Village and began doing all the necessary things: demolition, renovations, conceiving what the heck they’d call their new business. ‘We ended up with ‘Roux Bakehouse’ because, in the parlance of cooking, a roux is a mixture of flour and fat – usually butter – cooked together to thicken sauces,’ Amy tells me. ‘Since Hayley’s a baker and I work with dairy products and we came together to create this business that offers both baking and dairy, ‘Roux’ only makes sense.’ Indeed.

Compared to Hayley’s kitchen at the back of house, which is all hustle-bustle, the front area – Amy’s domain – feels calm. Relaxed.

Roux Bakehouse co-owners Amy Grimba & Hayley Turnbull

Zen-like, even. I look around the bright space, which is bathed in ethereal morning sunlight. All light woods and off-white tones. I look closer. There are the aforementioned bags of beans, of course, and stocked shelves of freshly baked bread – all made from threeday fermented sourdough which, Hayley tells me, makes for ‘way better taste and easier digestibility.’ (I can confirm at least the first of these two claims to be true.) But there’s so much more. A display case of pastries, for starters – featuring everything from sourdough cinnamon buns and seasonal sweet and savoury danishes to croissants and pains au chocolat. And rows of house-made packaged meringues and shortbreads and crackers (in their interim packaging). There are plenty of intriguing items from third-party vendors, too – including bone broth hot chocolates (by Beck’s Broth), artisanal marshmallows (by Nibble & Nosh), Roux-branded ceramic travel mugs (by Jacpot Pottery), wildflower honey (by Eby Family), linen bread bags (by Lot8), and a selection of culinary-themed earrings (by Studs and Succulents). ‘We liken this place to a community hub,’ Amy tells me when I ask about the unique selection, ‘and offer items from regional small-scale producers whose values align with ours.’ Fresh. Local. Sustainable. Community-focused.

A major player in Amy’s domain is a refrigerated unit that holds an assortment of cheeses from Udder Way, milks and yogurts by Eby Manor, and butter from Alliston and St Brigid’s creameries. ‘The vast majority of our dairy products are crafted with a2 milk,’ Amy tells me, ‘which is gut-friendly and easier to digest than other milks.’ A freezer unit features containers of house-made soups (‘Chicken and Barley’, ‘Lentil and Root Vegetable’, ‘Sausage and Kale’) and tins of house-made ‘Cinnamon Pecan Bread Pudding’ – all available for reheating or baking at home.

And then there’s the place’s shiny espresso machine – an integral part of the business that serves to transform this fresh enterprise from simple bakery-grocer to full-fledged bakerygrocery-café. ‘We have regulars who come in for coffee every day,’ Amy tells me. ‘In fact,’ she adds, pointing to a two-seater set up outside, in the snow, ‘we get folks drinking their coffees and enjoying croissants or danishes or what have you outside all year round.’ While Amy and I converse, a couple – the first customers of the day – saunters in for cinnamon buns and a couple of americanos. As if on cue, they sit down at the outdoor table, ready to enjoy the brisk, sunny morning. And so it begins.

While Roux Bakehouse has become a staple of the Belmont Village set, it’s also earned a solid reputation further afield, with several of our region’s top foodie establishments featuring Roux’s baked goods. Places like Eby Street Bodega (Kitchener), who use custom Roux hoagie buns for their distinctive sandwiches; odd duck wine & provisions (Kitchener), who often incorporate Roux baked goods into their extemporary menus; and Disko Coffee (Cambridge), that has Roux croissants, pains au chocolat, and more on offer in its magazine café. And you also can find Roux baked goods in Eby Manor’s (Waterloo) farm store.

So what’s next for this successful upstart?

‘We’ve got lunches starting next week,’ Amy tells me (which means that by the time you’re

reading this you should be able to grab a loaded savoury pastry or sandwich at Roux), ‘and we plan on becoming a pick-up location for a local CSA (Community Shared Agriculture) come spring.’ With a laugh, she adds: ‘And we still do have to finish the packaging design process.’ She pauses before declaring: ‘Honestly, we just want to continue to be a place for great food and community.’

Another customer comes through the door. And another. It occurs to me that Roux Bakehouse is perfectly poised to be the sort of place Amy and Hayley imagine it should be: a hub that feeds a community – and nourishes the soul.

ROUX BAKEHOUSE

International Roots ’n’ Blues

Kitchen Party

Friday, April 5 · 8 p.m.

Tegan and Sara

The Not Tonight Tour

Sunday, April 7 · 7 p.m.

Just For Laughs Road Show

Friday, April 26 · 8 p.m.

360 ALLSTARS

Wednesday, May 8 · 7 p.m.

DINE IN

FARMERS’ MARKETS AREN’T JUST FOR GRABBING GROCERIES. THEY’RE FULLY FLEDGED CULINARY (AND CULTURAL) DESTINATIONS: CONGENIAL PLACES TO VISIT AS AN END, NOT JUST A MEANS. WITH THIS IN MIND, NEXT TIME YOU’RE LOOKING FOR A PLACE TO STOP FOR A FANTASTIC BREAKFAST OR LUNCH ON A THURSDAY OR SATURDAY, SEEK OUT THE ST JACOBS FARMERS’ MARKET. WITH SO MANY TERRIFIC FOOD VENDORS, INDOOR AND OUTDOOR (INCLUDING NEXT-TO-THE-FIRE) SEATING, AND NO SHORTAGE OF PEOPLE-WATCHING OPPORTUNITIES, IT’S LIKE OUR REGION’S LARGEST RESTAURANT. OH, AND YOU CAN GRAB THE WEEK’S GROCERIES THERE TOO. SO DINE IN. TAKE OUT. IT’S A WIN-WIN NO MATTER HOW YOU SLICE (AND THEN EAT) IT.

PREAMBLE & PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN

Market vendor neighbours at Bon ApaTreat & KW Empanadas (located in the Market Building) share a laugh

Pad thai, Noi Kitchen (Market Tent)

Blooming onion, Colossal Onion (Peddler’s Village)

Montreal-style bagels, Bennett’s Bagels (Peddler’s Village) Gluten-free desserts, Bela Crema Bakery (Peddler’s Village)

Beef gozleme, Star Grill (Peddler’s Village)

Assorted macarons, Bzeeb Confections (Peddler’s Village)

Loaded nachos, Ray Woodley’s Craft Chippery (Peddler’s Village)

Non-alc spirits & beer, Neoni (Market Building)

Pork belly bao bun, Feng’s Dumplings (Market Building)

Baked empanadas, KW Empanadas (Market Building)

Brisket sandwich, True North Smoke and BBQ (Market Tent)

Assorted desserts, Bon ApaTreat (Market Building)

Churros, La Abuela Mexican Street Food (Peddler’s Village)

Cold Coffee Stockyards Beverage Co.

Cheeseburger Country Cravings

Apple Fritters The Fritter Co.

Portuguese Tart A Portuguesa Bakery

Macarons Bzeeb Confections

Bao Buns Feng’s Dumplings

Glazed Cinnamon Bun The Cinibun Shop

Hawaiian Pizza Pizza Junction

Aloha Green

Smoothie Yog n’ Shake

Salted Pretzel Grainharvest Breadhouse Perogies Perogie Palace

Gourmet Chip Mix Ray Woodley’s Craft Chippery

Churros La Abuela Mexican Street Food

stjacobsmarket.com

Strawberry Ice Cream Roll It Up

Pulled Pork Sandwich & Apple Slaw True North Smoke & BBQ

Cherry Spritz Cooler Willibald Farm Distillery & Brewery

DOWN HOME: FARM-TO-TABLE IN GREY HIGHLANDS

WORDS & PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN

As Chef Joel tops several clay vessels of locallyharvested duck bone broth – grouped together on a grill perched inches over a blazing live fire – with drizzles of Salt Spring Island olive oil, a blast of snow comes at us horizontally and somehow makes its way inside my wool jacket and down the back of my neck. I cinch my collar tight, pull my peaked toque over my ears, and hike my thick socks past my Red Wing moc-toes and over my jeans. Bright embers escape the open hearth and extinguish in puffs of glow all around me. The rich smells of duck and smoke intermingle in the blustery cold night. Magnificent. ‘Now this is some sort of Canadiana,’ I chuckle to my TOQUE Partner Cai as Chef passes a vessel of steaming broth into Cai's mittened hands. The cold. And fire. And wool. And broth. When Joel hands me a cup of the elixir, I let the clay vessel warm my naked fingers before taking a sip. And then I

drink. The rich flavours of the concoction rouse my taste buds while the heat from the drink thaws me from the inside out.

I look around at these outdoor environs where Cai and Chef and another dozen or so folks huddle together – near the open fire, or next to a large steel fire box, or on couches and chairs in this outdoor living room. We’re all here for one reason: to experience a most unique farm-to-table dining experience on a fifty-acre farm in Grey Highlands. The name of this magical place: Down Home. Its masterminds: chef Joel Gray and his lovely partner Hannah Harradine – kindred spirits who decided to leave the hustle-bustle of the ‘traditional’ restaurant industry in Collingwood several years back for (literally) greener pastures in the open countryside. The couple’s goal: to open an intimate dining space

featuring exquisite dishes that use ingredients from area farms, thereby showcasing regional terroir and connecting guests with their food. We’re off to a good start.

‘We acquired the farm back in 2019,’ Hannah tells me as she helps usher tonight’s group of diners from the open fire across the deep snow to the property’s original farmhouse (which doubles as Joel and Hannah’s abode). ‘Joel and I had already left working in restaurants by then,' Hannah continues, 'and were operating a pop-up dining experience somewhat similar to what we’re doing here – though less extravagant – at Gibson & Company café and bottleshop in downtown Collingwood.’ Their move to the farm had brought them access to a much larger stage. To entertain, of course, as they are doing here this evening. But also to grow herbs and produce during the warmer months, and more. ‘When it’s warmer out,’ Hannah says, ‘we host these dinners in the fields.’ Not tonight, though. A winter storm is brewing, and the farmhouse offers safety – and comfort. These days, Down Home is open for dinner by

appointment on Fridays and Saturdays, and will expand to Thursdays come springtime. Each night’s seating features a blind tasting menu that changes weekly during the growing seasons and monthly over the winter months. As I will soon discover, I wouldn’t mind if they didn’t change tonight’s menu – ever.

Once our eager group has entered the farmhouse off a back patio through the place’s small commercial kitchen, we are seated throughout the home’s main floor: at two- and four-seaters in a front room; at a four-top in front of a charming fireplace (positioned next to a neatly-piled stack of chopped wood) in the living room; at a larger harvest table in the dining room. Cai and I are seated at an island in the original kitchen – close to the small commercial kitchen where Joel and Hannah and their crew of two others have already started working magic. The cozy farmhouse seats sixteen, and every spot is occupied. The table settings are elegant, intentional. Indeed, even the eclectic mix of cutlery has been collected by Hannah over the years to serve their place here. And while it’s obvious to

every diner that we are partaking in a sort of shared experience, it's clear that each group is autonomous: just as in any restaurant setting, there’s no pressure (or even expectation) for any of us to interact.

As Cai and I settle into our island seats, Chef Joel emerges from the kitchen to present the first course. ‘This is our allium tart,’ Chef remarks as he places dishes in front of us, ‘made with various preserved onions, birch onion cream, nasturtium, and caciotta from Secret Lands Farm – a nearby sheep farm that specializes in sheep milk and cheeses, and lamb products too.’ The tart is delicate, even whimsical – almost too beautiful to devour. As Joel heads to the next group of diners, Hannah pours me a glass of Charmat from Rosewood Wines – located on the Beamsville Bench –that she’s curated to be paired with the tart dish. (Cai, our driver for the night, refrains.) The sparking wine complements the delicate flavours of the tart perfectly, and off to the races we go.

Over the next couple of hours, Chef Joel and Hannah and their small (and talented) team repeat this process of presentation and pairing again and again. And every single dish and wine pairing that makes up the ten-course tasting style menu blows our minds. We’re served ‘Carrot Cavatelli’ (an expression of over-wintered carrots, brown butter carrot purée, pickled green chili and carrot chutney, and baked yogurt crisps), and then ‘Wild Caught Lake Erie Pickerel’ (with Yukon gold and Ontario turmeric velouté, confit Yukon golds, and salmon roe), each paired with a barrelaged Chardonnay from Wellington’s Morandin Wines. ‘White Rabbit’ (rabbit loin and belly stuffed with garden-herbed rabbit sausage, charred cauliflower purée, and kale and nasturtium capers) is nicely paired with a Pinot and Gamay blend from Beamsville’s Hidden Bench Winery Estate.

At least one component of every course is baptized on the live fire outside, which means that throughout the evening Chef Joel (and I, with camera in tow) sprint outside into the blizzard to the blazing flames. And each time I find it fascinating to watch the

chef work his magic on the open fire – with mushrooms, and duck, and so much more. About halfway through the evening’s multicourse extravaganza we are presented a ‘Seabuckthorn Sorbet’ (buttermilk, bee pollen, and fennel top oil) that serves as a palette cleanser. I use this ‘intermission’ as an opportunity to stroll through the farmhouse with my Nikon – capturing details of the home and eavesdropping on our neighbours’ exclamations.

While the snow rages outside, the atmosphere inside is warm, cozy, cheerful. A combination of instrumental hip-hop and jazz fills the space. Each table of diners seems entrenched in conversation and entranced by the food

and drink. Chef Joel chats with a couple seated in the front room about the Grey County producers that he and Hannah work so closely with to source ingredients. Hannah converses with a group of four about the farm’s expansive herb and produce gardens that are cultivated each year during warmer weather and incorporated year-round into Down Home dishes. A group of eight seated in the farmhouse’s original dining room laugh about something apparently less earnest. Everyone, clearly, is having a great time.

I return to my seat, and dinner continues. Next up: ‘Charcoaled Hen of the Woods Mushrooms’ (with black garlic and shiitake purée, pickled pine mushrooms, and broth),

Down Home’s Hannah Harradine & Chef Joel Gray

and then ‘Roasted Duck Breast’ (with confit duck croquette, and spinach and braised red cabbage) – each paired with Stratus Vineyards’ ‘Alto’, a blend of sixteen varietals. Once we’ve enjoyed the decadent duck, Hannah offers a cheese plate featuring threeyear-aged pecorino from Secret Lands Farm, quince paste, honeycomb, and pickled green strawberries – a delectable combination exhibiting a perfect balance of sweet and sour. It's pungent and perfect.

‘It’s really important to us,’ Chef Joel remarks as Cai and I devour the pecorino, ‘that you know that all of the dishes you’ve enjoyed tonight

have been crafted using ingredients from area farms.’ Like the caciotta and pecorino from Secret Lands, for instance. But also the duck, which is the product of Brilliant Meadows regenerative farm in Mono. And the fresh vegetables, which were sourced from Sideroad Farm – an organic-certified operation in Markdale. And, of course, there are ingredients incorporated into the dishes we’ve just enjoyed from the farm at Down Home too. Mainly preserved veggies at this time of year. And also what’s next to come: an apple dessert with a uniquely narrative name.

Diligence + Analysis = Impact

Our focus on what matters to you includes frequent analysis and adjustments to your strategy with a clear eye on protecting your portfolio, maximizing your returns and minimizing your tax burden. This disciplined approach emphasizes stability regardless of market conditions.

It’s a formula for success.

UNCOVERING WELLINGTON COUNTY

3GEN ORGANICS

66

‘Just about everything in here has been grown or crafted by regional family-owned producers,’ Jamie Israel tells me as he tours me around the bright and expansive farm store at 3Gen Organics. I spot several products that fit Jamie’s description. Cucumber relish from Kellsons Craft Condiments. Ice cream from Mapleton’s Organics. Pasta sauce from Barrie’s Asparagus. Scented candles from Porchswing Candle Co. And of course plenty of 3Gen Organics items too – including single origin certified organic pork products (like sausages, bacon, burgers), and other organic products: pasture-fed eggs, tortilla chips, honey, flour, and more.

‘I’m a firm believer that families are meant to support each other,’ Jamie continues. ‘After all, family is what has sustained our business for almost one hundred years.’ You read that right: the Israels have been farming the land at 3Gen Organics, in the enclave of Wallenstein, for almost a century. Since the 1930s. That’s five generations of farmers. These days, three generations of Israels continue to work the farm – including Jamie and his wife Anna as

well as Jamie’s parents Carl and Carolyn and sons Luke and Brett. ‘As it stands today,’ Brett tells me, ‘we’ve got just under one thousand acres of certified organic farmland.’ This is not a small operation, then. And yet it remains firmly in the family. As it should.

The 3Gen Organics farm store is open Thursdays and Fridays 12-5pm, Saturdays 10am-5pm, or by appointment. And it’s worth a visit.

Like so many other remarkable farmers, producers, and food businesses that dot Guelph and Wellington County, 3Gen Organics is a partner of Taste Real – a County of Wellington program that promotes local food and facilitates valuable connections among farmers, food businesses, consumers, and craftspeople alike. That includes farmers like Jamie and the Israels, whose business is a model for organic, sustainable farming. Learn more at 3genorganics.ca and tastereal.ca

WALLENSTEIN

WORDS & PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN

Jamie & Brett Israel

CSA FARMS IN WELLINGTON COUNTY:

Farm shares – or CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) programs – allow Wellington County and Guelph residents to have direct access to high quality, fresh produce grown by local farmers. By joining a CSA, you are supporting a small local business that is able to deliver produce fresher than is possible to find in most grocery stores (and much more delicious too).

The following farms and locations in Wellington County offer a variety of local farm shares:

Cedar Down Farm | Neustadt Certified organic vegetables.

Pick-up: Spring, Summer & Winter – Thursday Night Markets at the Guelph Farmers' Market, 2 Gordon St, Guelph. cedardownfarm.ca

Corwhin Herbs and Produce CSA | Moffat Vegetables, herbs, and flowers with add-on chicken eggs and microgreens.

Pick-up: Begins in June – Tuesdays at the farm, 4402 Concession Road 11, Moffat. corwhinherbsandproduce.ca

Coyote Song Farm and Forest| Erin Fresh produce and flowers.

Delivery: Begins in June – Friday afternoons directly to homes in Erin, Guelph, and addresses in between. coyotesong.ca

Duurzame Growers | Elora Fresh produce.

Pick-up: Begins in June – Thursday Night Markets at the Guelph Farmers' Market, 2 Gordon St, Guelph. duurzamegrowers.com

Everdale Harvest Share | Erin Fruit and vegetable shares with meat, eggs, and other items from local producers.

Pick-up: Year-round options – Thursdays at Everdale’s Farm Store, 5812 6th Line, Erin. everdale.org

Full Circle Farm | Harriston Garden produce.

Pick-up: Begins in May – at the farm, 6383 10th Line, Harriston. 519-338-2195

Hoppy Fields Farm| Fergus Vegetables and eggs.

Pick-up: Begins in June – at the farm, 7784 Sideroad 15, Fergus, or at the Elora Farmers' Market. Delivery also available to Fergus, Elora, and Guelph. hoppyfieldsfarm.com

Ignatius Farm CSA | Guelph Certified organic produce.

Pick-up: Begins in June – at the farm, 5420 Highway 6 North, Guelph, and at neighbourhood CSA host sites around Guelph. ignatiusfarm.ca

Mackay Farms| Elora

Organic vegetables.

Pick-up: Begins in June – at the farm, 7259 Middlebrook Road, Elora, or at the Elora and Guelph Farmers’ Markets. Delivery also available to Guelph, Elora, Fergus, and surrounding area. mackayfarms.com

Red Rabbit Garden CSA| Erin Vegetable shares – fully customizable.

Pick-up: Begins in June – Thursdays at the farm, 5835 Wellington Road 26, Erin, or in Rockwood, or at the Georgetown Farmers’ Market. redrabbitgardens.com

Reroot Organic Farm CSA| Harriston Organic vegetables and eggs.

Pick-up: Begins in June – Tuesdays at the farm, 5642 Line 11, Harriston, or in Mount Forest; or on Thursdays in Waterloo. Delivery also available to Arthur, Fergus, Elora, Drayton, Moorefield, and surrounding areas. reroot.ca

Salad Days Farm CSA| Belwood

Certified organic vegetables – customizable.

Pick-up: Begins in June – Thursdays and Saturdays at the farm, 6794 Sixth Line, Belwood. Home delivery available to Belwood, Fergus, Elora, and Salem. saladdaysfarm.ca

Spiral Farm| Elora

Vegetables, fruit and herbs.

Pick-up: Begins in May - weekly pick-up Tuesday evenings in downtown Guelph. spiralvegfarm.ca

Tullamore Lavender Co. | Arthur Lavender bouquets and plants.

Pick-up: One-time pick-up at the farm, 7595 Wellington Road 109, Arthur. Open to the public in June and July. tulllamorelavender.ca

Learn about these farms and more at wellington.ca/farmshare

UPCOMING EVENTS:

Spring Rural Romp

Northern Wellington County – May 25

A self-guided food and farm tour to farms, markets, nurseries, and food locations across Mapleton, Minto, and Wellington North. See how your food is grown, get to know farmers, visit with farm animals, try food samples, pick up fresh foods and seedlings, and discover your rural surroundings! wellington.ca/springromp

Fall Rural Romp

Southern Wellington County and Guelph – September 28

A self-guided food and farm tour to farms, markets, and local food and drink locations across Centre Wellington, Erin, Guelph/ Eramosa, Puslinch, and the City of Guelph. Meet taste makers, learn about local food and agriculture, and discover local destinations in Wellington County. wellington.ca/fallromp

Learn more about finding local food, experiences, and events in Wellington County and Guelph at tastereal.ca and experiencewellington.ca

Our evening cooking programs allow the people we serve to expand their taste buds, create a budget and learn kitchen safety, all in a group setting. Participants also gain employable skills in our social enterprise program, where folks make and sell handmade candies (find us at the Guelph Farmer’s Market!)

As part of our day programming, people with developmental disabilities learn meal planning, affordable grocery shopping and cooking skills. The daily lunches we cook together are healthy and accessible, and are a reliable meal for folks who are food insecure.

We are a non profit organization run by & for folks in our community. Please consider donating to help keep our fridges full of healthy food!

BAKING UP SOMETHING SPECIAL: ANOTHER MOUTH-WATERING FOREST CITY FOOD TOUR

‘It’s actually amazing that a downtown this size has such a varied selection of world-class bakeries,’ Forest City food savant Bryan Lavery remarks while he leads my TOQUE partner Cai and me past a handful of wonderful culinary booths at London’s Covent Garden Market (and, in balmier weather, Outdoor Farmers’ Market) toward our next stop on this culinary tour: the Sehovac family’s ‘Hot Oven’ station. Specializing in fresh-baked hand-rolled phyllo pastries, this Covent Garden booth is like a love letter to Balkan cuisine. Especially the family-owned business’ bureks – spinach and cheese, plain, or meat-stuffed savoury pastries in a buttery, flaky, unleavened phyllo dough – have a reputation for tickling the tongue.

When we arrive at the ‘Hot Oven’ stall, baker Alexander Prince (who, ironically, is not a member of the Sehovac family but instead a close friend) is filling large sheets of phyllo with spinach and cheese. While I pull out my Nikon and start shooting this satisfying process, and Cai chats with Downtown London Business Development Manager (and tour co-creator) Kathy McLaughlin about London’s rich food scene, Bryan sneaks off to purchase a few bureks for Cai and me. ‘A treat for later,’ he chuckles as he slips the still-warm pastries into our bags, ‘because I think you’ll have enough to eat on the tour.’ A delicious bit of foreshadowing, to be sure.

It's a snowy Thursday morning in mid-January, and Cai and I are back in London for yet another food tour. While past trips to Forest City had us experiencing Old East Village neighbourhood tours that focused on dumplings (see TOQUE 20) and beer and spirits (TOQUE 21), today’s food romp has us setting sights firmly on London’s downtown baking culture. Anointed the ‘Scratch

Bakery & Patisserie Trail’ and presented by Downtown London, this urban culinary experience includes (in its fullest iteration) a dozen stops – many of which are within a short walking distance from each other. Created and curated by Kathy and Bryan as either a self-guided or escorted tour, the ‘Scratch Bakery & Patisserie Trail’ we are sampling promises loads of good eats no matter which way you tackle it.

On this particular Thursday morning, Cai and I are lucky enough to be visiting six of the Trail’s dozen stops with Kathy and Bryan – watching made-fromscratch techniques, learning about London’s rich culinary scene, and tasting small-batch baking along the way. Among the places we explore are the aforementioned ‘Hot Oven’, and ‘Jill’s Table’ (a sort of Vincenzo’s-meets-Bradshaw’s), and ‘Rhino Lounge’ (the eatery at Museum London whose cronuts have reached almost-mythical status). Our other stops are ‘London Bicycle’ (a full-fledged bike shop that also features Dutch-inspired baked goods), ‘Saisha’s Patisserie’ (a French-inspired bakery with the most intricate desserts), ‘Happiness Café’ (a coffee and dessert bar that offers everything from scratch donuts to french macarons), and finally Grace Bodega (a hip café-wine bar hybrid whose signature Canelés de Bordeaux are all the rage).

By the time we’re finished our tour, we’ve been tasting for three-plus hours and our stomachs have been stuffed with homemade goodness – everything from cheesecakes to cronuts to donuts to boterkoek and more. And I’m in complete agreement with Bryan: it truly is remarkable that a downtown in our region offers so many world-class bakeries.

Come along while we introduce you to a few of the tour's gems.

WORDS & PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN

10:07AM – Our first stop along the ‘Scratch Bakery & Patisserie Trail’ is ‘Hot Oven’, a family-owned Covent Garden Market bakery specializing in Balkan fare. Pictured here: baker Alexander Prince crafts a batch of Balkan bureks – delectable savoury pastries in a buttery, flaky, unleavened phyllo dough.

10:32AM – Next stop: ‘Jill’s Table’, Chef Jill Wilcox’s destination kitchen store. Among the features offered by this award-winning Forest City gem are quality kitchen wares, gourmet foods, and cooking classes.

Hot tip: Chef Jill produces her own line of ‘Jill’s Table’ extra virgin olive oils, chutneys, spice mixes, and more.

11:15AM – Our third stop along the Trail is the ‘London Bicycle Café’ – a bike shop that also features a café bakery which offers delish breakfast and lunch menus while specializing in locally-sourced, traditional Dutch baking. Some of Chef Alicia Berkelmans’ go-to items: Dutch favourites like poffertjes (tiny yeast pancakes dusted with icing sugar and served with maple syrup), boterkoek (a buttery flat Dutch cake that’s packed with sweet almond flavour), and specculas (a spiced shortcrust biscuit). The bike shop itself – a favourite hangout for the local cycling crowd – specializes in cargo bikes, e-bikes, and other urban bike kit.

Hot tip: this bike shop/café is located right next to the Thames Valley Parkway (TVP), London’s premier multi-use riverside trail.

12:12PM – Next up: ‘Rhino Lounge’, a modern bakery and coffee shop located inside the atrium at Museum London. This gem, owned by serial entrepreneur Jess Jazey Spoelstra, is known for its soufflés (available for pre-order at rhinolounge.ca) and cronuts (available Thursdays only). Lucky for us, we’re here on a Thursday, so take full advantage of the day’s cronut features: Chocolate Espresso and Orange Coconut. Delicious. Decadent. Divine.

Hot tip: When you’re visiting ‘Rhino Lounge’, be sure to hit up the wonderful art exhibits at Museum London, and pop in at Centre at the Forks – a theatre in the Museum that features a massive panoramic window overlooking the Thames River.

'Scratch Bakery & Patisserie Trail’ creators & curators

Bryan Lavery & Kathy

McLaughlin

1:06PM – Our fifth stop along the Trail is at ‘Saisha’s Patisserie’, a bakery that specializes in the most decadent cakes, croissants, tarts, and pastries. Oh, and great coffee too. Owned and operated by Chef Brian Sua-an and his wife Jerrah Revilles, Saisha’s (named after the couple’s daughter) features hand-crafted desserts that are delicate, intricate, and life-altering. (Truly.) During our visit to the bakery, Chef Brian had us sample his ‘Lemon Cheesecake’ (cheesecake mousse, raspberry jam, almond sable, fresh fruits), ‘Plaisir Sucre’ (hazelnut dacquoise, praline feuillette, milk chocolate ganache, milk chocolate chantilly, hazelnut glaze), and more. We talk about them to this day.

Hot tip: Chef Brian’s other establishment, ‘Reverie’ (a tasting menu restaurant serving contemporary Canadian cuisine), is located just a few doors down from ‘Saisha’s’. Fit them both into a visit and call it a day.

1:55PM – After ‘Saisha’s’, we beeline to colourful (and flavourful) ‘Happiness Café’ where Ukrainian baker Olha Prytkova (along with her husband Anatolii) greets us with plates of scratch macarons, mousse cakes, donuts, and more.

Hot tip: Try any one of Olha’s mousse cakes. They’re expertly crafted, light, and flavourful. Oh, and colourful too.

2:35PM – Our last stop on the Trail is at Chef Angela Murphy’s ‘Grace Bodega’ (little sister to ‘Grace Restaurant’ – a top restaurant in London). This café-meets-pantry-meets-wine bar features baked goods made in-house from scratch (including fantastic sourdough loaves, savoury galettes, and more) and is a perfect spot to while away any afternoon. Or wrap up a most marvelous food trail. Cheers.

UPTOWN HAUNTS:

EXPLORING A WELL-TRAVELED PATH IN WATERLOO

WORDS BY DANI KUEPFER; PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN

IT’S AN INCREDIBLE ACCOMPLISHMENT WHEN A RESTAURANT, BAR, OR CAFÉ

REMAINS OPEN TO BUSINESS FOR OVER A DECADE, TWO DECADES, THREE DECADES.

IT’S EVEN MORE ASTONISHING WHEN A TRIUMVIRATE OF ESTABLISHMENTS IN CLOSE

PROXIMITY MANAGE TO DO IT – GAINING ALMOST MYTHICAL STATUS TOGETHER AS NEIGHBOURHOOD STAPLES AND HELPING TO DEFINE AN ENTIRE COMMUNITY. IN UPTOWN

WATERLOO A THREESOME OF ‘GOLDEN GIRLS’ – ETHEL, JANE, AND THE PRINCESS – HAVE ACHIEVED JUST THIS FEAT. COME JOIN ME ON A WEE BAR HOPPING TOUR.

ETHEL’S LOUNGE

114 KING STREET NORTH

ETHELSLOUNGE.COM, @ETHELSLOUNGE

Imagine a neon sign blending into the landscape after it’s been peeking out over King Street like a friendly wave for three decades. ‘We’ve become part of the woodwork,’ Glenn, owner of Ethel’s Lounge (and its iconic neon sign), tells me. Ethel’s has been widely adored for decades as a diner whose décor reminds me of both my grandmother’s eat-in kitchen and a beach bar in Aruba. Vintage metal signs, framed portraits of old-time Hollywood starlets, and band posters (advertising shows like The Bee Gees and Cat Stevens at the University of Waterloo) are tessellated along cheery yellow walls. Chrome and formica kitchen tables and their mismatched chairs are filled with students, work wives, and old boys alike, enjoying crispy pints, nachos, and chopped salads on a sunny Friday afternoon. An old wooden bar wraps around an island plastered in well-traveled bumper stickers that read ‘Don’t mess with Texas’ and ‘Eat Bertha’s Mussels’. Outside, an expansive raised patio with its own bar sits ready for warmer days. There’s a lot going on here – and I can’t get enough of it.

So, I begin by quizzing Glenn: ‘Who is Ethel?’ Glenn tells me about his love of the blues, and of his running a blues bar in the eighties, also here, Uptown. The ‘original’ Ethel’s was a renowned blues club in Eastside Detroit, then, run by Ethel herself. When Detroit’s Ethel’s closed, Glenn salvaged the club’s neon sign, gifting the name to his own soon-to-open uptown tavern. ‘It’s quite a collection,’ I remark, eyeing the artifacts. The sign, with its tipped martini glass. The sock hop bar stools. The carved wooden macaw hanging over the beer taps. Glenn laughs, ‘We were thrifting before it was the thing to do.’

I flip through the menu, which ranges from classic diner plates like clubhouse sandwiches, traditional breakfasts, and mushroom swiss burgers to southwest-inspired taquitos and enchiladas. And there’s a daily special of favourites like homemade meatloaf, pulled pork, and pork ribs smoked in-house. I would be remiss not to mention Taco Tuesdays, a long-standing community favourite.

Unlike my grandma’s kitchen, the bar is fully stocked and pouring a dozen draft beers, a mix of micro and macro brews. I order a Wellington SPA as usual and eye the Coors Light tap, thinking this would be a good place to have a beer with my dad.

The buzz that filled the place when I first arrived begins to calm while lunch fades into the final few hours of the work week. As people leave their tables, most of them turn and bid farewell to Glenn, who seems to know everyone by name. Some of these folks have been coming for decades, bumping elbows with fellow bar flies or treating their young staff to lunch at the place where they themselves held their first job. Even some of the staff have been here for over twenty years. ‘People often ask me how I attract such a diverse crowd,’ Glenn reflects. ‘I guess once you find what you like, you stick to it.’

There’s not much more to it than that. Good food, good friends, and a palpable warmth. If you’ve never been to Ethel’s, head down any day of the week and you’re sure to find Glenn with a friendly hello and a lifetime of stories. (Oh, and there’s parking too – just like the good old days.)

PRINCESS CAF É

46 KING STREET NORTH PRINCESSCAFE.CA, @THEPRINCESSCAFE

Across the fabric of a sage green veranda, white block letters spell out the holy trinity: sandwiches, craft beer, coffee. I’ve arrived at Princess Café – an Uptown Waterloo staple located right on the main drag. The space is satisfyingly simple, the classic layout and practical furnishings perfect for quick lunches and long coffee breaks. A small counter stretching across the front window invites folks to partake in some good old-fashioned people watching. Across a foyer people work on laptops in an atrium-like space (‘The Annex’) the café shares with its namesake, the Princess Twin Cinemas, though the businesses have operated independently since Princess Café owner Marc and his wife bought the café fifteen years ago.

The Princess Café boasts a classic, straightforward menu that really delivers, starting with the solid coffee lineup: uncomplicated lattés, london fogs, and americanos. Though I usually seek out a frothed oat milk situation, today I am content with a black coffee, which the barista hands to me in a mug featuring two kittens playing in a bed of peonies. So cute. My first sip feels so familiar, and Marc identifies the blend as Café Femenino from Guelph’s Planet Bean, which I happen to drink at home. It’s a roasty, nutty, caramel-y brew that’s grown by a co-op in Peru run by Andean indigenous women. While the café’s clientele surely drink more coffee than I ever could, Marc and I can agree that small, intentional choices in who we buy from can add up to a greater impact over time.

But today I’m here to eat. Fast forward to me diving into ‘The Big Marc’. Shredded lettuce, crunchy onion, pickle coins, special sauce, and a sesame seed bun, all with a big melty slab of grilled halloumi. Yes, halloumi. Perfection. If you’re not a big cheese fan like me, you

might love the ‘Chipwich’ (local fave Noah Martin summer sausage plus pickles, cheddar, dill mayo, and of course, chips), the classic-ish ‘Turkey’ (with smoked turkey, spinach, tomato, roasted garlic mayo, sundried tomato pesto, and goat cheese), or the ‘Curried Tuna Melt’. Whatever you get, crush it with a bowl of soup, made fresh daily.

‘We’ve always been coffee, sandwiches, soup, and great beer,’ Marc tells me, ‘but once pandemic-era rule changes allowed beer-to-go in Ontario restaurants, we really leaned into it.’ In spring of 2020, Princess Café took its menu to the small sliding window at the front of the shop, and while folks continued to show up for their usual lunch orders, it was the beer fridge that sent the line winding down the block. The aptly named Sidewalk Beer Shop was born, and now the café’s long-standing sandwich counter is accompanied by a rotation of hundreds of Ontario’s best brews.

It’s a pretty awesome beer selection, which can be browsed on their website but is optimally enjoyed in person, as Marc has handwritten hundreds of tags giving a quick description of each brew. The shop features Ontario-based brews (along with a handful of imported lambics) that you won’t find in the LCBO, and that will connect you to breweries like Badlands, Dominion City, Fine Balance, and Sonnen Hill without the several hours drive. Even I, who identify as a beer snob, see a ton of cans I don’t recognize. Everything is reasonably affordable (with the option to take home or crush in-house alongside your sandwich), which means they’re moving through fresh, new beers every week.

Beer, coffee, sandwiches, soup: great provisions to accompany a trip uptown. A groovy café/bottle shop not to miss.

JANE BOND

5 PRINCESS STREET WEST

JANEBOND.CA, @JANEBOND_005

On a quiet street just off King sits an unassuming saloon, its board and batten facade adorned with a woman’s silhouette and the numbers ‘005’. High contrast orange and blue walls draw me into a cozy dining room of mid-century molded chairs, pop art posters from past live gigs (designed by local graphical heroes Jon Kutt, Jon Johnson, and others), cobblestoned floors and a tavern-style bar – all bedazzled by a disco ball throwing daylight from across the room. Out back there’s the cutest patio. This is Jane Bond: vivacious, confident, and unapologetically herself.

‘When we opened we were entirely vegetarian,’ the eclectic tavern’s co-owner Bernard tells me, 'decadently so.’ In fact, Jane Bond’s menu has been fully vegetarian for all of its twenty-nine years. That’s extraordinary, really. Lately, the menu is almost entirely plant based, and still made from scratch. Beyond ‘veggie’, the menu’s theme is hard to put my finger on – it’s less of a specific cuisine, and more of a vibe. Fried tofu chick’n sammies, dressed spicy and saucy or plain jane. Classic faves like the vegan caesar, smash burgers, taco salad, antojitos, and, of course, burrito-sized samosas. And weekly specials including from-scratch soups and some of the best vegan desserts in the city. It occurs to me that this is road trippin’ food! Tex-mex and American, home-cooked comfort food: a mix of nostalgia-inducing plates, done vegan.

Plant-based folks and omnivores alike will be happily sated with huge, tasty servings made even better paired with a great pint! Seven taps pour an all-star lineup, including a pale ale from Willibald, a lager from Burdock, a pilsner from Tooth and Nail, a stout from Third Moon, and, of course, the golden child: Bellwoods’ Jutsu. And there’s more in the fridge: cans from Slake, Halo, Block 3, Godspeed, Still Fields, and Queen of Craft, plus some non-alcoholic gems. Jane

Bond is no stranger to craft: co-owner Shane recounts pouring Steamwhistle, Beaus, and Wellington long before they were household names.

Of course, Jane Bond is a great spot to order a latenight cocktail and let your hair down. (Cucumber and mint-infused Pimms Cup, anyone? Or maybe a Blue Velvet, with blue curacao, spiced liqueur, smoked vanilla and meyer lemon.) ‘Originally what we wanted was a sweet cocktail bar,’ Bernard tells me, ‘a place to hang out and listen to cool music. And then the food took off.’

After nearly three decades, a stellar food and drink lineup aren’t the only thing that’s remained: live music started in the late nineties and you’ll still find local bands and DJs slinging tunes every Friday and Saturday night. ‘People always know they can walk through the door and listen to fantastic music,’ Bernard beams. ‘We never charge cover, and the music is always different. We just want people to have fun and feel included.’

A place to eat, drink, and be yourself: that’s what Jane Bond has always been. While we chat, the tavern begins to fill with the people who make Jane Bond what it is: long-time regulars alongside new faces, vegetarians and their omnivore counterparts, folks young and old. ‘And the staff,’ Shane adds, ‘we wouldn’t be here without them. They don’t wear uniforms – they come to work as themselves. And they design the seasonal cocktails and weekly features. They make food they want to eat.’

‘We built a place we wanted to hang out at,’ Bernard reflects, ‘and we want everyone who comes through this door to feel as much a part of all this as we do.’

PASSIVE HOUSE

A significant shift in how we approach building design and construction, Frontiers is at the forefront of innovation in the home-building industry.

GLOBE TROT.

THROUGHOUT THE MONTHS OF FEBRUARY AND MARCH, THE DOWNTOWN KITCHENER BIA ORGANIZED A FOUR-WEEK ‘TRAVELERS TOUR’ CULINARY EVENT THAT SHOWCASED FOOD & DRINK FROM PARTICIPATING DTK RESTAURANTS REPRESENTING DIFFERENT REGIONS OF THE GLOBE: EUROPE, INDIA, ASIA, AND LATIN AMERICA & THE CARIBBEAN. THIS EVENT WAS MORE THAN JUST A FOODIE EXPERIENCE; IT WAS AN OPPORTUNITY TO CELEBRATE THE DIVERSE CULTURES AND TRADITIONS THAT HELP KEEP DOWNTOWN KITCHENER THRIVING. WHILE THE ACTUAL ‘TRAVELERS TOUR’ HAS COME TO AN END (FOR THIS YEAR, AT LEAST) ITS PARTICIPATING RESTAURANTS CONTINUE TO OFFER CLIENTS EXCEPTIONAL DISHES ALL YEAR ROUND. A FEW WEEKS BACK, THE TOQUE TEAM VISITED FOUR ‘TRAVELERS TOUR’ PARTICIPANTS (ONE FROM EACH REPRESENTED REGION) TO TASTE WHAT THE WORLD HAS TO OFFER RIGHT HERE IN DTK. COME GLOBETROTTING WITH US.

REPPING EUROPE:

OTHER DTK ‘TRAVELERS TOUR’ DESTINATIONS: odd duck wine & provisions

La Cucina TWH Social Wineology

LA LOLA TAPAS BAR Pork Skewers & Salmon Torta, paired w/ house-made sangria 26 BENTON ST, DTK LALOLACATERING.COM

REPPING LATIN AMERICA & THE CARIBBEAN:

OTHER DTK ‘TRAVELERS TOUR’ DESTINATIONS:

28

The Tamale Girl

Pupuseria Latinos

Dun Julio Tacos & Tequila

The Guanaquita

CASA TORO 88

Tacos Al Pastor (Marinated pork in adobo sauce, topped w/ charred pineapple, cilantro & onions)

BENTON ST, DTK CASATORO88.CA

REPPING INDIA:

DWARKESH.CA

OTHER DTK ‘TRAVELERS TOUR’ DESTINATIONS:

Jayalakshmi

TWH Social

The Rich Uncle Tavern

DWARKESH INDIAN CUISINE

Vadapav, Samosas & Dahi Puri, paired w/ mango lassi

REPPING ASIA:

OTHER DTK ‘TRAVELERS TOUR’ DESTINATIONS:

SOI Thaifoon

Rose Café

The Civil

THE EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR OF UPTOWN WATERLOO'S BIA, IN PRAISE OF 'THIRD SPACES' AND SO MUCH MORE

BY JEYAS BALASKANTHAN

In the seven months I have been in my role as the Executive Director for the Uptown Waterloo BIA, I continue to learn more and more about our members who work hard every day to keep our Uptown a vibrant place for everyone.

I have lived in the Uptown Waterloo neighbourhood for over fifteen years and have worked at both universities over twenty years. Uptown Waterloo is a special place, with a great variety of ‘third spaces’ for people to gather as well as diverse businesses providing hospitality, entertainment, retail, specialty services, active living spaces, and more. To have witnessed the resiliency of our businesses through the LRT construction and then the pandemic gives me hope and inspiration that our future is bright.

The longevity of our businesses is a great reflection on how our community as a whole supports them. Ethel’s (thirty years in business), Words Worth Books (forty years) King Street Cycles and Loop Clothing (ten years), Just Love Pie (ten years) are some great examples of the successes and stability of our Uptown members. So much credit is due to

these businesses and others who continue to innovate, evolve, and provide valuable services and experiences to our community.

Uptown's local businesses play a pivotal role in driving innovation, creating jobs, and fostering a sense of belonging within our community. As the Executive Director I have the privilege of being the ambassador for our members and I take pride in sharing their stories to celebrate them. Uptown Waterloo is an essential part of the economic engine for this region. I appreciate the support from our Uptown Ward Councillor Julie Wright and Mayor Dorothy McCabe, strong voices in the City Council Chamber and Regional Council Chamber.

The future is bright for our Uptown Waterloo Community with an immense amount of development on the horizon which lends itself to plentiful opportunities for entrepreneurship. Our focus for the BIA will be continue our work to create ‘third spaces’ for everyone to ensure that Uptown is always a destination for folks to Come On Up and Explore, Experience, and Enjoy.

DISKO COFFEE: A ‘THIRD SPACE’ FOR COFFEE – AND MAGAZINES

ST

DOWNTOWN

‘It’s a sunny afternoon, sometime in the famously un-wintery month of February, when I find myself at one of the region’s newest –and quite possibly most aesthetically-pleasing – coffeeshops, Disko Coffee, chatting with owner Arman Duggal about the inspiration(s) behind his captivating vision-turned-reality. We’re discussing the idea of ‘third spaces’: places outside of home and workplace where you can relax on your own or mix with people other than family and co-workers. Places where you can pause to linger and reflect on how little time you actually spend in public truly aware of your surroundings, unhurried and unplugged. It was with that 'third space' in mind that Arman opened Disko in the heart of his own hometown of Galt.

‘I have always been drawn to small cafés,' Arman tells me as we sit together at a smart two-seater near the back of the cozy space. Behind me, light reflects off the coffee bar’s backsplash – a grid of sun-soaked soft rose, terracotta, and pearly off-white tiles. To my left, a wooden cabinet lined with the cutest vessels and a number of simple pen-and-ink sketches stands against a limewash wall. To my right, long rows of shelves are stocked with thick, beautiful magazines from across the globe. We’ll get to these in a bit.

‘When I was growing up in Galt,’ Arman continues, ‘my parents used to drive the family to Guelph to hang out at Red Brick Café.

Sunday mornings, Tuesday evenings – it didn’t matter. They just loved being around people –

WORDS BY DANI KUEPFER (WITH CHRIS TIESSEN); PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN

Disko owner Arman Duggal

enjoying good coffee and good conversation. I remember those visits fondly,’ Arman tells me, ‘and really grew to love coffee culture during those times.’ Some years later, when Arman found himself living in Toronto, his love for the ‘third space’ of coffee shops did not dissipate.

‘I spent a lot of time at cafés then – either working for them or working at them, on my own marketing, branding, and photography projects.’ When I ask what he loves most about small cafés, Arman is quick to answer: 'There’s no hustle and bustle. You can stay put and relax. You can have real interactions if that's what you desire – or not.’ Gesturing to the half dozen small tables around us, a couple of them gathered near the floor-to-ceiling

windows overlooking City Hall, he declares: ‘Right now, this place is perfect for us.’

The calming space, with its limewash walls and smart maple furniture, is a reliable backdrop for the cafe’s most notable feature: magazines. Rows and rows of them. A small but eclectic army of brightly-coloured, bold-fonted soft covers fill the wall space between the door and the espresso machine. Art, to be devoured.

The shelves hold an array of aesthetically pleasing and intriguingly niche magazines. I could get lost in the cornucopia of seductive covers promising vignettes of storied lives in Mexico City, Antwerp, and Istanbul.

Architectural lookbooks and interior design digests. Deep-dive guides to design, culture, and travel in North Africa, Buenos Aires, wherever. Longstanding journals like Kinfolk, i-D, and Apartamento, plus younger publications like Parklife, Advanture, and Climbers. International streetwear glazes the covers of Men’s FUDGE and Popeye, a self-titled ‘magazine for city boys’. And there are dozens more (including a small pile of TOQUE Magazine – at home among all these beauties).

‘I think it’s safe to say I have developed an appreciation for tactile things – for paper and pen,’ Arman tells me. And no wonder. He grew up working at Phidon Pens, an independent stationery shop owned by his parents that sits right next door. ‘My time at Phidon exposed me to the most beautiful papers from Japan, France, Italy,’ he tells me. ‘Over the years I have collected stacks of notebooks. Most remain empty. I love the paper, the binding, the possibility of someday filling them with prose.’ Arman’s love of paper is what eventually drove him to magazines – for their content, of course, but mostly for their layout design and photography, paper stock and binding. ‘There’s something so intentional, so deliberately beautiful, so intrinsically satisfying about a good magazine,’ Arman tells me. I don’t disagree.

Prior to 2020 (when Arman helped create their first online shop), Phidon ran for over a decade as a solely in-person experience, and now Disko follows in its footsteps. Amidst the colour blocked shelves, the tidy curves of the table sets, the smooth enamel of petite coffee cups, Arman – his feet firmly planted in the bricks and mortar of this beguiling shop in downtown Galt – gives expression to his appreciation for tactile things. He fetches one of the pen-and-ink sketches from the cabinet – a simple black-and-white composition of stacks of magazines on a wooden chair – and runs the paper through his fingers. ‘I had a friend create these for me,’ he tells me, admiring the little cameo. I spot a stack of similar pieces on the bar – available to customers at no cost. Reminders of the café. And of simpler times when 'screens' were made of wonderful paper.

The wooden sign board out front lays out the cafe's offerings in plain text: coffee, news, magazines. The shop's offerings begin with the usual suspects:

ARMAN'S TOP 5 MAGAZINES:

We asked Disko Coffee owner Arman Duggal to recommend five magazines available for purchase in his café. Here’s what he suggested:

1. MONOCLE MAGAZINE

Monocle Magazine, a globally-minded publication founded by Canadian magazine tycoon Tyler Brûlé, covers topics ranging from international affairs and design to culture and entrepreneurship. It’s published monthly and is one I’ve been reading for years.

2. APARTAMENTO

Apartamento is a visually rich magazine from Barcelona celebrating unique homes and the creative lives of artists through intimate photography and candid interviews. This one started it all for me.

3. DRIFT

Drift explores coffee culture through captivating storytelling, stunning photography, and in-depth articles, with each issue highlighting a different city around the world. In my opinion, it’s one of the best magazines on coffee culture.

4. FARE MAGAZINE

Fare Magazine serves up an enticing exploration of food culture, showcasing diverse culinary traditions, recipes, and personal stories from around the globe. This quarterly publication is a staple in the shop.

5. POPEYE MAGAZINE

POPEYE Magazine is a cult classic Japanese rag that has had a significant cultural impact, influencing trends in Japanese fashion, music, and urban youth culture since it was founded in the 1970s. A personal favourite.

lattes, americanos, cortados, and the like, plus a classic drip. The beans come from Stereo Coffee Roasters in the Toronto Junction, and Disko keeps it easy with just two blends: one espresso and one drip. Arman says it best: ‘Coffee should be simple, consistent, and good quality.’

Now, I hardly ever say 'no' to coffee, but today I’ve taken Arman’s suggestion and am contentedly sipping on a warming cup of chai. Arman makes the tea from scratch every morning and afternoon, just like he did growing up: grinding cardamom, peppercorn, and other spices by hand and boiling them in a big pot with ginger, black tea, raw sugar, and milk. Spicy and energetic aromas meet sweet, creamy warmth. I have had many chai lattes in my day, but I realize after taking my first sip that I have never had this before. If, like me, you have a chai history (or not), I suggest you try the real thing.

Beyond coffee and tea the shop offers a simple selection of pastries that arrive fresh each morning from Roux Bakehouse, the bakery and specialty grocer in Kitchener’s Belmont Village. These treasures, displayed under the glass counter, include delectable croissants, cinnamon twists, danishes. No wrong decisions here. ‘The last few years have opened people’s eyes to what southwestern Ontario towns have to offer,’ Arman remarks while I enjoy the last sip of chai, ‘I have such a close connection to the community here, so it's really meaningful to be part of the reason people come to downtown Galt.’

Disko Coffee: a downtown space where you'll find good reason to pause and stay a while.

MEET YOUR MAKER

MOST IMPORTANT TOOL:

My saw (Mandy); my CAD software (Sarah)

FAVOURITE PROJECTS:

Anything with texture and a sense of movement made at the bench (Mandy); pieces that present technical challenges (Sarah)

INSPIRATION:

Elora’s natural surroundings (Mandy); archaeological finds & historical architecture (Sarah)

BEST PLACE(S) FOR A POSTWORKDAY BITE:

The Cellar in Elora (Mandy); any patio in Elora (Sarah)

JEWELLER MANDY DESKUR GREW UP IN THE TOWN OF ELORA, SURROUNDED BY THE NATURAL BEAUTY OF ITS AWE-INSPIRING CLIFFS, DEEP GORGES, AND RUSHING WATER. IT’S NO SURPRISE, THEN, THAT THIS GOLDSMITH AND GEMOLOGIST CREATES BESPOKE PIECES (UNDER HER MACADI JEWELLERY BRAND) THAT ARE INSPIRED BY THE MESMERIZING LANDSCAPES THAT SURROUND HER. TOGETHER WITH FELLOW GOLDSMITH AND GEMOLOGIST SARAH PEACOCK (WHO BRINGS MACADI PIECES TO LIFE AND CRAFTS HER OWN COLLECTION, PALOMINO JEWELLERY – ALSO OFFERED BY MACADI), DESKUR OFFERS CUSTOM DESIGNS AND SIGNATURE COLLECTIONS THAT MERGE NEW TECHNOLOGIES LIKE CAD DESIGN WITH TRADITIONAL CRAFTSMANSHIP. DESKUR’S MACADI LINE OF DISTINCTIVE JEWELLERY COMFORTABLY PROJECTS THE RANGE OF ELEGANCE BETWEEN SUMPTUOUS ASYMMETRY AND EVOCATIVE VINTAGE FORM.

Mandy Deskur (right) with Sarah Peacock

MACADIJEWELLERY

#PHOTOSPREAD

‘AFTERWARDS, THEY ALWAYS HAD TEA IN THE KITCHEN, MUCH THE NICEST ROOM IN THE HOUSE.’

– FLORA THOMPSON

PARAGON KITCHENS: EAT YOUR HEART OUT

EVERY GREAT HOME FEATURES A SHOW-STOPPING KITCHEN; THAT IS, A CENTRAL SPACE THAT’S DESIGNED AND BUILT WITH INTENTIONALITY. FOR HOSTING. SOCIALIZING. COOKING. RELAXING. GUELPH-BASED PARAGON KITCHENS KNOWS ALL ABOUT DESIGNING AND BUILDING SHOW-STOPPING KITCHENS. INDEED, THEY’VE BEEN AT IT FOR FORTY YEARS NOW. A WHILE BACK, THE TOQUE TEAM HAD THE PLEASURE OF VISITING THREE PARAGON PROJECTS – A RURAL NEW BUILD, A SIDE-SPLIT RENOVATION, AND A CENTURY DO-OVER – THAT EXEMPLIFY WHAT THIS ROYAL CITY GEM CAN ACCOMPLISH WITH CLEAR VISION, CREATIVE INGENUITY, AND HIGH-GRADE FINISHES. YOU CAN START DROOLING NOW.

WORDS & PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN

SHANNON & ANDREW’S KITCHEN

College Hill Neighbourhood, Guelph

When Shannon and Andrew decided to renovate their cozy College Hills neighbourhood side-split, they knew they wanted their old galley kitchen blown wide open. As a household of four (with multiple pets), they wanted an open concept space that would give them an airier feel, better flow, and more meaningful connection between family members chilling in different spaces of the main floor. Paragon Kitchens nailed all of these objectives – and so many more. The new kitchen space features dramatic lighting, central island for family meetings, a jaw-dropping oven hood, a myriad of hideaway appliances (including concealed fridge/freezer unit), and even a recessed window bay for enjoying a magazine or a morning tea – or both. Bliss.

THE HIGHLIGHT REEL:

(1) off-white and warm taupe Fenix cabinetry with wood laminate accents is wipeable and easy to maintain

(2) gorgeous ‘REM’ Dekton countertop, soft to the touch and completely heat-resistant, provides a worry-free surface for prepping and cooking

(3) a window nook incorporated into the kitchen design offers a cozy perch for morning coffee

(4) ample storage for a family of four, with some strategic shelving to showcase the client's love for local pottery and treasured plants

(5) metal accented with touches of brass (including the client's choice of an oversized dome light fixture) gives the whole space a welcoming glow

(1)

(4)

THE HIGHLIGHT REEL:

(1) an expansive pantry provides a handy space to hide a whole range of things – like lunch boxes and kids’ snacks, for example

(2) Paragon signature black Fenix cabinets mixed with a gracefully-grained wood laminate provide depth and texture to the space

(3) integrated large appliances blend into the cabinetry while small appliances are tucked away in the roomy pantry beyond the kitchen

(4) open shelving above the functional cabinetry finishes at a soaring ten feet, providing a place for the eye to land and a spot where beautiful décor items can be showcased

JOHANNA & COREY’S KITCHEN

The hamlet of Arkell

For Johanna and Corey, kitchens should be inviting spaces designed to host lots of family. Indeed, it’s not uncommon that this couple’s family gatherings include twenty people or more. So when they recently had a custom home built (by Guelph builder Anthony Homes), they made sure that their new Paragon kitchen had a large island for hosting, flowed seamlessly into an open concept living and dining area, and included a large (and naturally-lit) walk-in pantry where dirty dishes and other mess can stay hidden while the party keeps rolling. The result: a bright and uncluttered space with dramatic flair.

CLAUDE & ERIC’S KITCHEN

Exhibition Park Neighbourhood, Guelph

When Claude and Eric moved into their gorgeous century home in Guelph’s Exhibition Park neighbourhood, the house was broken up into a number of small rooms. Since this couple shares a passion for crafting fantastic meals for groups of friends, they knew they needed a larger kitchen space. The result: a Paragon Kitchens masterpiece that features an open concept design that flows seamlessly into the home’s living area, an island with oversized quartz countertop for socializing (and secondary countertop with espresso machine and integrated bar fridge), large drawers for spices, kitchen utensils, cutlery and more, and a professional gas range and wall oven with French doors. Dinner’s up.

THE HIGHLIGHT REEL:

(1) the statement island countertop ‘Skara Brae’ by Cambria, featuring splashes of deep green and grey with a warm white undertone, provides a stunning contrast to the deep hues of the kitchen

(2) an inlaid tile ‘rug’ between the cooking wall and the island (a design touch driven by the client) provides an accent of playful patterning while offering a functional surface that will withstand serious cooking

(3) custom interior accessories like spice trays, pull-outs, and tray dividers keep everything tucked away while also within easy reach

(4) to achieve a tailored but approachable look, Fenix finger-print resistant cabinetry material in an historically-appropriate deep green is paired with an elegant natural walnut in a matte finish

(5) integrated high-end appliances, beautiful in their own right, sturdily support the homeowners’ love for cooking

May 2–5, 2024

THURSDAY

La Trenza

What Remains

Collective

Big Ideas Lecture

Exhibition Opening

FRi DAY

Laakkuluk

Williamson

Bathory

Nora Bateson

Ikumagialiit

Performance

Art Band

SATURDAY

Aedan Corey

Emily Henderson

Janice Grey

Book Launch and Readings

Lacey Hill

Moneka

Arabic Jazz

An Evening of Music and Dancing

SU n DAY

Anne Bourne Listening Walk

Anjeline de Dios

Anne Bourne

Rosary Spence

Sound Healing Practice

Angeline de Dios

Sound Meditation Workshop

Deep Listening: The Story of

Pauline Oliveros

Documentary Film and Discussion

All events are free except the Guelph Lecture—On Being ($25 or pay what you can). Tickets available at River Run Centre riverrun.ca

We’re committed to your access needs. For more information visit festival.artseverywhere.ca

Photo: Monica Lozano, La Trenza (detail), 2023

FOUNDRY TAVERN: A THEATRICAL FOOD EXPERIENCE IN THE HEART OF THE GASLIGHT DISTRICT

‘I feel as though we’re in some nineteenthcentury Parisian metro station,’ Cai whispers to me as Foundry Tavern General Manager Joey Ranchuk guides us through the restaurant’s bar area to a four-seater near the back of the busy space. Indeed, everything about the place hearkens back to some earlier romantic era. The centuryold stone and concrete walls. Twenty foot tall original wood-slatted ceilings. Arched buttress-style chandeliers with marquee lights that cast a warm glow onto the bustling bar. And Edison bulbs mounted inside large glass orbs that seem to float above the diners throughout the space. As if on cue, three metro station-style flip-boards mounted to original timber supports behind the bar spring to life. I watch as a blur of letters flip ferociously, announcing lists of

cocktail features punctuated by knee-slapping dad jokes. I make a mental note to keep one eye on these mesmerizing gizmos for the rest of the night. ‘Or the Moulin Rouge,’ I quip – referencing the late-nineteenth century Parisian revue as presented in the 2001 music video ‘Lady Marmalade’ with Christina Aguilera, Mya, Pink and Lil’ Kim. (Trust me on this one.) The place feels theatrical. Full of energy. As if anything could happen here.

The perfect venue for a night on the town.

It's late March, and Cai and I have traipsed from Guelph into Galt to enjoy dinner at Foundry Tavern – one of several fantastic venues recently developed and opened by Waterloo-based HIP Development as part of the impressive Gaslight District. We’ve been to the restaurant before (where we enjoyed

WORDS & PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN

CAMBRIDGE

122 early-afternoon fireside drinks on the Foundry patio overlooking Waterloo Region’s largest public square, which boasts a live music stage and the biggest permanent outdoor screen in Canada); this is the first time we’ll be trying it out for dinner. By the looks of it, a lot of other folks have decided to step out for dinner too. ‘Friday and Saturday night are definitely busy around here,’ Joey tells us once we’re comfortably seated. ‘Both nights feature live music,’ he notes, ‘which is a huge hit with our guests.' Joey adds that Sunday brunch is amazingly popular too: 'We’re booked up months in advance.’ And no wonder: an allyou-can-eat brunch, and in this spectacular venue.

After a bit of discussion with Joey about what’s best to order for dinner, we agree that Executive Chef Kyle Smith's sending us an assortment of dishes that represent all corners of the menu is an irresistible idea. And a few alc and non-alc cocktails too. But first: pints of Foundry Brewing’s West Side IPA – one of several killer creations from

Foundry brewmaster Geoff Wiseman, whose microbrewery is located just fifty meters or so across the public square from the Tavern. It's a New England-style brew with notes of passionfruit and mango. ‘Like a Jutsu – only lighter,’ I remark to Cai after my first sip. This is a great thing. Before long, our wonderful server arrives with four appetizers: a ‘Cobb Salad’ (crunchy greens, boiled egg, confit tomatoes, crispy bacon, guacamole, blue cheese, croutons, pickled onions, sherry vinaigrette); ‘Sweet Potato & Pecan Salad’ (radicchio & frisée blend, spice roasted sweet potato, whipped goat cheese, candied pecan, mild yogurt dressing, fresh herbs); ‘Beef Rib Bonbons’ (braised & shredded, light crispy batter, beer mustard, ponzu dipping sauce); and ‘Charred Octopus’ (Sicilian olives, confit tomato, nduja, almost romesco sauce, garlic aioli, crispy fingering potato).

While the salads are fantastic (I especially love the ‘Cobb’ which, in my opinion, ranks right up there with Elora's The Friendly Society’s version of the classic dish), and the bonbons (think

savoury beignets) are undoubtedly decadent, it’s the octopus that impresses Cai and me the most. The Mediterranean-inspired dish, exquisitely presented, is a combination of unique elements that – when assembled on a fork – deliver the tastiest mouthfuls. When Chef visits our table, I ask him about his decision to offer this particular eclectic range of cuisine. He’s straightforward with his answer: ‘My team and I just cook what we find flavourful – and approach the menu with thoughts of what pairs best with beer. We’re a gastropub, after all,’ he continues, ‘so whatever goes with our multitude of Foundry beer options will work well for us.’ Makes sense to me.

Talk of beer reminds me that Foundry Tavern has a great cocktail menu too. On our table: a ‘Black Bramble’ (tangueray malacca gin, lemon juice, crème de cassis, simple syrup) and non-alc ‘Hibiscus Chill’ (seedlip spice, agave syrup, lime juice, hibiscus tea), as well as classic examples of a ‘Mint Mojito’ and ‘Whisky Sour’. I’m especially impressed by the fact that Foundry offers a full array of nonalc cocktail options – something that too many restaurants seem to ignore.

Next up: our mains. For this portion of the meal, Chef decides to bring us two hearty dishes that we might very well have chosen ourselves. We share an order of ‘Hanger Steak ‘n Chips’ (10oz marinated triple-A hanger steak, herb salad, russet fries, garlic aioli, bone marrow demi) and a ‘Buttermilk Fried Chicken Sandwich’ (air chilled chicken thigh, shaved iceberg lettuce, house made pickles, garlic aioli, hot honey drizzle). And while the steak is fantastic (especially cooked medium rare and topped with the terrific demi), it’s the chicken sandwich that blows our minds. The perfect morsel of fried chicken. Soft bun (think Martin’s potato roll). And a balance of pickle, aioli, and hot honey drizzle. ‘The best fried chicken sandwich I’ve had in years,’ Cai declares between bites. I don’t disagree, nodding vigorously with mouth full.

As we wrap up our mains and wait for dessert –‘Sticky Toffee Pudding’ (rich date spice cake, sponge toffee crunch, salted caramel, and vanilla ice cream) and ‘Spanish Coffee’ (kahlùa, triple sec, dark rum, whipped cream) – a duo sets up with guitar and mics in the corner opposite our table. And as they

WHILE YOU’RE VISITING FOUNDRY TAVERN FOR FOOD & DRINKS, BE SURE TO CHECK OUT THESE OTHER GASLIGHT DISTRICT ATTRACTIONS:

THE UNDERWING: a moody restaurant & event lounge that’s open for dinner Wednesday through Saturday and features blues-, funk- and jazz-leaning live music Wednesdays and Thursdays and a deejay on the weekends. Ever-changing seasonal cocktails (including the ‘Fireside Margarita’ featured in this issue’s ‘Cocktail Hour’ are sure to impress.

THE FRENCH: the second iteration of this wildlypopular culinary destination featuring elevated (yet approachable) French cuisine. (Set to open summer 2024.)

GASLIGHT PUBLIC SQUARE: a fantastic public space that features a permanent stage for live music, Canada's largest outdoor screen for movie nights and live sporting events, and multiple restaurant & lounge patios.

FOUNDRY BREWING: a cozy microbrewery that boasts almost twenty skews (from IPAs to Irish Stouts) and definitely hits above its weight class. Enjoy Foundry brews at Foundry Tavern, The Underwing, or any number of patios backing onto the public square this spring and summer.

TAPESTRY HALL: the region’s preeminent event space featuring ‘Meander’, a living architectural sculpture by Philip Beesley that represents the natural beauty of the Grand River. Keep your eyes peeled for quarterly ‘Meander’ dinners that allow guests to experience a three-course prix fixe menu along with a ‘Meander’ presentation that is sure to delight with sound, light, and movement.

THE LAUNDRY ROOMS: a boutique hotel located in the heart of Gaslight District. Spend the weekend here – with so many great amenities at your fingertips.

get into older Beatles and newer Tom Petty covers, I note that they're perched directly beneath a massive round steel door stamped ‘The Goldie & McCulloch Co’ – an ode to the building’s past, evocative of the fact that the entire Gaslight District was owned and operated in the mid-nineteenth century by the iconic Galt-based company that operated it as a foundry (hence the restaurant’s name). While Cai works on the dessert, I make my way across the bar area, along a hallway featuring massive overhead marquee letters spelling out ‘Foundry Tavern', away from the music and into the restaurant’s main dining room. I rattle off some frames of the space, which is packed like the bar (and shares the same stone walls and tall slatted ceiling) but radiates a distinctly calmer atmosphere.

My parents would love it here, I think to myself. Or my fiancé, Liz, and our gaggle of kiddos who are always up for a dining adventure. I picture all of us enjoying a fantastic meal at the Tavern before meandering out into the public square for a movie night on the big screen or some live music. (Programming starts back up midMay.) I head back to the bar area where I join Cai for a last bite of dessert. And am enthused. By Foundry Tavern – with its theatrics and energy. And by the broader Gaslight District too – a realized vision that brings so much to this region.

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COCKTAIL HOUR

RECIPE BY CANDICE KONRAD, GENERAL MANAGER OF THE UNDERWING

WHEN THE UNDERWING GENERAL MANAGER (AND MIXOLOGIST) CANDICE KONRAD WANTED TO CREATE A COCKTAIL THAT REMINDED HER OF SITTING FIRESIDE BY WATER IN THE CRISP SPRING NIGHT AIR, SHE CAME UP WITH THIS ‘FIRESIDE MARGARITA’ – A SPICY (BUT SMOOTH) DRINK AVAILABLE AT THE GASLIGHT DISTRICT RESTAURANT AND ENTERTAINMENT LOUNGE SHE MANAGES. WHILE THE PEPPERY CHILI-INFUSED TEQUILA WILL HAVE YOU FEELING THE FIRE, THE SMOOTH APEROL AND COOL FRESH LIME WILL LEAVE YOU FLOATING.

FIRESIDE MARGARITA

Method: Shaken over ice, strained, and served over fresh ice

Glass: Rocks glass with a half Tajín rim

Garnish: Dehydrated lime, fresh red chili slice & Tajín seasoning

.5oz red chili-infused 1800 Reposado Tequila

1oz Aperol

.5oz Triple Sec

1.5oz fresh lime

.75oz simple syrup

Directions: Mix ingredients in a shaker tin. Shake with ice for fifteen to twenty seconds. Strain into rocks glass with half Tajín rim filled with fresh ice cubes. Garnish with dehydrated lime & fresh red chili slice. Dream of spring.

AUGUST BISSELL 2024

16,17,18

WILD RIVERS • SUDAN ARCHIVES • BULLY

CORB LUND • CHALI 2NA & CUT CHEMIST

TREBLE CHARGER • MONEEN

SARAH SHOOK & THE DISARMERS

IAN JAMES BAIN • THE BOO RADLEY PROJECT’S KARAOKE LIVE! • AMANDA BRAAM • MARIEL BUCKLEY

CAMP RIVERFEST • WILLI CARLISLE • THE CREEPSHOW • DJ ALIAS • DJ BARRY SPRITZER • ELAQUENT

ELVIS PUNKLEY • FAMILY MAN • THE FLAMINGOS • THE FELLOW CAMPER COUNTRY DANCE BAND

THE FREE LABEL • HABIT • ILLSCARLETT • IRRESPONSIBLE PURCHASE • ADRIAN JONES & HIS BIG BAG O’ UKES

THE KEWPIE DOLLS • LUELLA • MOTHERHOOD

NADUH • ALEX NICOL • NICOLETTE & THE NOBODIES

NIX & MENNO (OF HOLLERADO) • NYSSA • OMBIIGIZI • PADDLING PUPPETEERS • PAINTING PELICANS

PETER PIPER • POPULATION II • PRIVATE CLUB

THE RED RIVER RAMBLERS

RIVERCITAL

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