NOW AVAILABLE!
Canada s Most Comprehensive
Gardening Catalogue
The Sheridan Nurseries Garden Catalogue for 1975 contains 136 pages, alive with ideas for your garden.
Over a Thousand Listings
The new '75 Catalogue describes more than 1200 hardy plants and trees that can bring your home and neighbourhood to life this year. Listed page by page . . . picture by picture . . Evergreens ... Trees .. Vines ... Roses. .. Hedges. .. Fruit ... Ferns and Flowers. In addition to all the common varieties of nursery stock, there are at least a dozen new and unique Sheridan developments, released only this year.
Also, for the first time herbs are being featured!
More than 300 Colour lllustrations
So beautiful to look at . . so practical to use. Your new '75 Sheridan Garden Catalogue not only describes hundreds of vibrant selections for your home, but shows exactly how they can enhance your lawn or garden with more than 300 full colour photographs. You'll want to keep this Catalogue on hand all year as a constant reference on every aspect of gardening.
Hints for Gardening, Landscaping
In the new Sheridan Garden Catalogue you'll find many useful sug-
NURSERIES 437
gestions from the experts to help improve your garden this year. Suggestions about planting, pruning and pesticides. Maintenance hints for hedges and shrubs. Gardening tips on soils, fertilizers and garden accessories. There are 6 pages of landscape sketches and plans as well as a hardiness zone map to show you which ideas would be best for your home or cottage. You'll find a garden calendar, information on soil conditioners, lawn care and growing with fluorescent lights along with some great ideas for patio decoration. There are quite a few addresses included, too, so you can write away to join interesting clubs or to get free booklets and detailed information on specific plants and trees. The 1975 Sheridan Garden Catalogue, now, more than ever before, is a gardening information book you won't want to be without this spring.
To obtain your 1975 Sheridan Nurseries Garden Catalogue write enclosing $1.00 deposit or visit your closest Sheridan Garden Centre. Your new Catalogue will contain a $1.00 coupon redeemable on your first purchase from Sheridan.
Dept. TR, 700 Evans Avenue, Etobicoke, M9C 1A1 (416) 621-9111
March 15-23. 1975
New England Spring Garden and Flower Show, sponsored by the Massachusetts Horticultural Society. at Commonwealth Armory. Boston. Contact: the society at (617) 536-9280.
April 5-13. 1975
Chicago Flower and Garden Show, sponsored by the Chicago Horticultural Society and Botanic Garden. at McCormick Place. Chicago. Contact: Robert Wintz (312) 332-2868.
April 6-12. 1975
The Garden Symposium, sponsored by Colonial Williamsburg, at Williamsburg. Virginia. Contact: Mrs. J. S. Moyles (804) 229-1000.
April 18-October 19, 1975
Bundesgartenschau, the bi-annual German federal garden show, staged this year in two parks in Mannheim (just south of Frankfurt). Germany. Several indoor shows throughout the period. Contact: the Civic Garden Centre for information.
April 26-30. 1975
La Floralies de Ghent, the Belgian Floralies held in Ghent. Belgium. Contact: the Civic Garden Centre for information.
May 20-23. 1975
Chelsea Flower Show, sponsored by the Royal Horticultural Society. at Chelsea Royal Hospital Grounds. London. England. And other shows held throughout the year at the society s halls. Contact: the Civic Garden Centre for information.
May 16-17. 1974
International Lilac Society Convention,
Coming Events of International Gardening and Floral Arts Interest
Morton Arboretum. Lisle. Illinois. Contact: the arboretum at (312) 968-0074.
June 8. 1975
Canadian Iris Society Show, sponsored by the society at Royal Botanical Gardens. Headquarters. Burlington. Contact: the gardens at (416) 527-1158.
June 20-22. 1975
Ontario Horticultural Association Convention, at Barrie. Ontario. Contact: Russell F. Gomme (416) 965-1091.
October 8-13. 1975
American Horticultural Congress, sponsored by the American Horticultural Society at Honolulu, Hawaii. with tours to other islands. Contact: O. Keister Evans (703) 768-5700.
Don t you wish you could have flowers year round and start your own flowers and vegetables from seed? You CAN, with the Vary Hobby House which was designed for home gardeners. The hobby house provides year round enjoyment J) us the possibility of rowing a much wider variety of plants and the op?ortunity to experiment. My wife has a 10 by 12 ft. unit and has produced hundreds ofplants such asorchids, pineapple, avocado, all our annuals, cactuses and ferns. This winter we are experimenting with tomatoes and lettuce besides an in-ground formal garden. The hobby house incorporates many quality features found in the Vary commercial greenhouses. It s completely modular in construction and the frame can be assembled using only a few hand tools. The frame is strong galvanized steel tube and all the hardware supplied is galvanized to prevent rust a must in greenhouses where humidity is high. It is clad in weather-resistant corrugated fiberglas panels held in place with cedar purlins, and can be easily erected by the homeowner at no cost. The unit comes complete with self-storing aluminum door and the standard size is 10 by 12 ft. with additional sections in multiples of 4 ft. lengths. All the necessary options, such as ventilation and heating, can be supplied. The basic house retails for $500. Forfurther information, please write or call: G. W. Mann, Canadian Greenhouses Inc.. Box 5000, Beamsville, Ontario, (416) 945-4745.
Regular Features
Coming Events of International Interest, 3; Gardening Under Lights Group, 15; School of Floral Decoration, 15; Gardening Events Calendar, 16; Bookshop, 27; and Shop, 28.
Other Items of Interest This Month
'lfakin_? Cuttings the most popular method of Plant Propagation, 7.
The Front Cover
Canada s most beautiful garden-park an apt description of the Metro Toronto parks department s Edwards Gardens. This golourful corner was shot in May last year. Photo by A. C. Drysale.
Civic
Garden Centre Board of Directors
Mrs. K. G.(Audrey) Allman; R. H. (Roy) Bainard; Mrs. J. H. (Betty) Billes; J. (Jack) Blair; J. E. (John) Bradshaw; Mrs. D. P. (Elizabeth) Bryce; G. P. (Geoff) Clarkson; E. A. (Ed) Endersby; Mrs. J. A. (Edna) Gardner; R. A. (Reg) Mackenzie; G. A. (Gig) Milne; Mrs. M. A. (Chris) Okawara; l% R. (Ernie) Pope; Mrs. E. (Flavia) Redelmeier (Chairman); Mrs. F. W. (Genevieve) Robertson; W. (Wilf) Sanders; L. C. (Larry) Sherk; Mrs. R. (Helen) Skinner; T. W. (Tom) Thompson; D. H. (Dave) Yerex; W. A. (Bill) Young.
Staff for Civic Garden Centre and Trellis
George Sinclair, Executive Director; A. C. (Art) Drysdale, Associate Director and Editor; Mrs. J. W. (Awdrey) Clarke, Executive Secretary.
General Information
Trellis is published monthly (except July and August) by the Civic Garden Centre, 777 Lawrence Avenue East, Don Mills, Ontario, M3C 1P2. The centre is located in Edwards Gardens, at Leslie Street and Lawrence Avenue East, the geographical centre of Metropolitan Toronto. It is a non-profit gardening and floral arts information organization with open membership. Subscriptions to Trellis are only available through Centre membership (85 for 12 months). Opinions expressed within do not necessarily reflect those of the Centre. This is Volume 2, Number 3.
THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE Telephone 445-1552
What it is
e A non-profit gardening and floral arts centre for the dissemination of information to amateurgardeners and flower-arrangers
« An open membership body with over 3.000 keen gardener-members (from rank amateurs to advanced professionals) who pay only $5 for 12 months
« Home of six gardening clubs or groups with specific gardening interests
« Meeting place for specialized plant societies from Bonsai to Roses
o Home of some of the best flower arrangers in North America (quoted from U.S.A. author and editor, Helen Van PeltWilson)
What it does
» Operates Canada s most complete public horticultural library
» Responds to over3,000gardeningquestions annually
o Organizes, in both spring and autumn, garden talks and demonstrations on a wide variety of subjects and at different levels
« Teaches non-commercial flower arranging at various levels to over 300 persons annually and encourages their competition
e Carries on an extensive flower-drying program to extend garden beauty through into the winter months economically
o Operates a Speakers Panel Bureau which brings panels of experts on various subjects to groups desirous of an informative program
« Publishes information booklets on various subjects; e.g. Preserving Beautiful Flowers
« Stages two flower shows each year and hosts numerous others
What members receive ($5 annual fee)
o Ten issues per year of Trellis
o Free borrowing privileges from the 3,000-volume library
o Ten per cent discount off all purchases of books and gardening and floral arts supplies bought from the Centre
Opportunity to join one or more specialized member groups or clubs
« Discounts off all courses offered at the Centre
Free admission to Members Nights held at least twice per year
777 Lawrence Ave. East (in Edwards Gardens), Don Mills, Ontario M3C 1P2
r White Rose
Now Telephone: 297-3330
MAIN NURSERY| SCARBORO |MISSISSAUGA
\@ Westof Kennedy North ofLawrence '?:32"o";"'" " /- UNIONVILLE and Highway 427) |
YES! We believe ""Mother Earth is the best growing medium on the market today.
Best for seeds Best for cuttings Best for terrariums.
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Taking Cuttings the most popular method of Plant Propagation and simple too
The Windfields Gardener
The most important and most widely used form of plant propagation in use to-day is thatofcuttings. A cutting is any vegetative plant part that has the ability to reproduce roots, leaves and shoots. when taken off of the parent plant. The number of plants propagated to-day by cuttings is greater than all the other methods combined.
Cuttings too. fall into several different categories: root cuttings. rhyzome. tuber, softwood. intermediate and hardwood stem cuttings, and finally leaf and leaf-bud cuttings.
As the spring season is now approaching. many of you avid gardeners will be thinking of increasing some of your plant varieties and rejuvenating others. Now. when there is more sunlight and some of your plants have begun to come out of their dormant state is the time to take cuttings from your favourites.
Softwood herbaceous cuttings are those taken from soft non-wood plants such as coleus, geranium. chrysanthemum, begonia. etc. As these plants are of a soft nature, the amount of leaf surface left on the cutting is not as great as those of a *harder nature. Cuttings are taken Y% to 2 inch below a node and all the flowers and lower leaves are removed leaving three or four leaves at the top of the four to six inch cutting.
Cuttings from such plants as the geranium must form a callus before they root. It is best to leave the cuttings out for an hour or so. in order to let them form the initial callus layer before sticking them in the rooting medium. If this is not done. black leg and other fungus diseases will set in and destroy the cuttings.
. A heated rooting bench. etc. is not necessary for most plants. At house temperatures the soil will be warm enough, 55-60°F., which is sufficient for cuttings to root readily. The cuts should be made on a slant and never straight
across as this tends to tear the stem tissue. The cuts should only be made with a sharp knife and never with a pair of scissors or secateurs.
Softwood greenwood cuttings are those that form a woody stem later in the life of the plant. Examples are: fuchsia, lantana. poinsettia, pilea. euphorbia and carnations. With these cuttings, a larger leaf area is required. | have found this true from various small experiments this past December and January with fuchsia and carnations. All were cut % inch below a node and one group had only the bottom three leaves removed while the other group had all but the top three leaves taken off. The fuchsias with the most leaves were fully rooted and potted in six days while the other group of cuttings were not fully rooted for another three to five days. The natural rooting hormones are more active and effective with a higher rate of photosynthesis provided by more leaves. Therefore. if you increase the area of leaf space. as well as the length oflight on your cuttings. the probability of better and disease free plants can only be to your advantage.
The third most important softwood cuttings are those taken from leaves. such as kalanchoes, crassula. begonia. peperomia, saintpaulia, echeveria. sansevieria and rhododendrons. You will probably find some of your plants of these types producing plantlets on the mature leaves. These can be immediately planted.
Leaf cuttings taken from other plants require a portion ofthe leaf petiole (the leaf stem) in order to produce new shoots. Some plants that do not have the ability to produce new shoots without a stem bud will root and the leaf will grow bigger but the cutting will not produce a new plant. Tip cuttings should be taken to prevent this.
Saintpaulia, peperomia. begonias. crassulas, etc. can be rooted with simply the base of the leaf in the rooting medium. Plants such as the gloxinia. that have no leaf base bud. should be taken with a portion of the stem because these plants produce a tuber at the base ofthe petiole for continued growth.
At this time it is considered too late to takeintermediateand hardwood cuttings.
Although it went by unnoticed, circa 1900 Southern Ontario ceased to function as a forest ecosystem. and silently became an agriculturally-dominated landscape. whose remnant natural forests formed a patchwork quilt across the land. With the advent of modern agricultural technology. and the enormous pressure put on agricultural land by speculators and urban development companies, circa 1950, the forest quilt again was subjected to intense conversion pressure. Thus after 150 years of settlement in Southern Ontario pristine nature is rare indeed. The wealth of native herbs, shrubs and trees resulting from a combination of Great Lakes and a continental climate, varying topography and varied soils, are scattered hither and yon. occurring in isolated patches missed by the land-use revolution which has gone on around them. Many herbs now are nearing complete extinction.
Although urban man is trying to understand and capture his new-fangled technology rather than be overwhelmed by it, the understanding of himself as part of the changing panorama of local land-uses is just being inserted into educational curriculums in the grade and high schools. Is there. then. a way to capture some of this past. to provide historical continuity. to augment the sense of place. while at the same time helping young men and women develop their personal identity?
The typical urban Ontario flower garden and home landscape a rock. a birch tree and periwinkles. or some petunias and marigolds surrounded by grass reflects historical linkages to Northern European gardening traditions. Certainly it is not an expression of 19th century Ontario natural landscape heritage! Thus, as children are reared in 8 / March 1975
the city. they see neither a symbolic representation of their historic and natural environment. nor an assemblage of native plant species. To see these. they must travel to the countryside. where in a few hours. months of negative experience are to be replaced instantly by positive symbols ofwhat *it used to be . Is it surprising then that trilliums are picked. litter carelessly disposed of. and meagre financial support given to natural area management? After all. what value do such areas have to the young urbanite in reinforcing hiscultural identity? Aren t such natural areas and landscapes really a kind of freak show impressive for the odd dilettante or botanist. but outside the mainstream of urban 20th century culture? The memories of mother picking weeds and flowers in the garden are pleasantly nostalgic, but why not easy-to-care-for plastic flowers on a stereo set. Why crank up the power mower when artificial turfor asphalt is easier to maintain?
The question I should like to pose then, is very simple. Can Southern Ontario develop a gardening concept of an assemblage ofnative plants and associated physical objects which express the heritage landscapes of Ontario a symbolic heritage landscape garden? The primary assumption. should such a garden concept be developed. I leave to the reader. However. its merits would be: 1) visual and auditory continuity with 19th century Ontario plant communities, 2) visual reinforcement ofsignificant heritage or symbolic landscape elements. 3) potential for personal daily contact with nature and its seasonal variation as an educational laboratory for natural science instruction, and perhaps the most important aspect. 4) per-
*Mr.
Domney is a professor in the University of Waterloo's School of Urban and Regional Planning, Waterloo, Ontario.
Heritage Gardening on the Front Lawn instead of traditional Petunias
Robert S. Dorney*
sonal physical and emotional interaction with such mini-ecosystems by the individual as manager and eventual spokesman.
Conceptualizing a miniature ecological forest
In 1969. I began a three-year greenthumb binge converting a frontyard sodded with Kentucky blue grass, European dandelion and thistle into an Ontario miniaturized landscape. with an all-Ontario flora. A near all-Ontario fauna slowly followed. including the indomitable English sparrow. Having only a small city lot (65 ft. x 130 ft.) in Waterloo to experiment with, 1 felt that other visual and functional attributes had to be accommodated. Visually, the mini-forest had to be in harmony with the neighbourhood: weeds even native ones such as poison ivy and goldenrod had to be discouraged. It should provide visual continuity with spring. summer, fall and winter, displaying typical seasonal flowers and colours. Typical forest sounds. like wind in the leaves. should be incorportated. Functionally. the area should improve privacy. act to trap blowing snow. provide a wind-free place to rest in the sun. and cool the house in summer.
I picked the front of the house because it was up-wind and lying to the west a visual and biological desert anda sterile public space with no distinctive attributes.
Trying to conceptualize what heritage or symbolic elements to depict, I came up with the following seven major symbolic Ontario environments to select from:
1) Great Lakes shoreline grass and forest dune formations; 2) Shield landscape igneous rocks. lichens, pine/hardwoods: 3) Boreal forest with
an ericaceous bog: 4) Oak plains oak and prairie flora; 5) Niagara escarpment limestone and white cedar (with mixtures of other various forest types): 6) Maple and beech forest: and 7) Carolinian forest a rich mixture of southern Ontario flora.
The first three would be out of place in Waterloo county but probably not too hard to miniaturize. and certainly a challenge to try. Oak plains are a forgotten landscape. although in 1800 were common plant communities in North and South Dumfries townships and in much of Brant and Norfolk counties: it would be hard to duplicate the oak plain since its original composition is partially conjectural. all the plains having quickly gone to crops. Not having a front yard slope. miniaturizing The Mountain (Niagara Escarpment) seemed to be physically too heroic! Hence I elected to combine the last two on the list, the Carolinian forest elements with the maple-beech forest elements a situation which exists about 20 miles south of Waterloo where the southern flora following the Grand and Nith River valleys disappears into the maple-beech forest dominating Waterloo County north of Highway 401.
Selecting a Carolinian-hardwood forest then encompassed a wide variety of potential flora which could be introduced. without being biologically unrepresentative ofthe area. Symbolically. the 19th century physical elements of this forest are white pine or hardwood stumps. burned pine snags. occasional limestone blocks. pine stump or stone walls, some vine forms (grape, Virginia creeper, yam root, green briar. Virgin s bower, and bittersweet). colourful fall leaves (gray dogwood. red-osier dogwood. nannyberry, wafer ash. burning bush. hard maple. trembling aspen. and red oak). colourful late summer and fall berries (dogwoods. nannyberry. grape. baneberry. virginia creeper). and a spectacular spring display of ephemerals (trilliums, bloodroot. spring beauties. and trout lilies).
Designing aminiature forest ecosystem
Since the area I had to work with was
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only a crescent 32 x 30 feet in size or in total 1/100th of an acre, wind desiccation, soil compaction from construction, solar effects ofheat and shade, drainage and acidity had to be detailed carefully. Ephemerals had to be given 50 percent or more shade and near-complete protection from desiccating wind; shade was needed to suppress weeds and grass, and acid-loving and moisture-loving plants needed to be segregated from alkaline and dry zones. The generalized layout which evolved, partially by trial and error, is shown in the property sketch. The dogwood, mostly gray, and nannyberry edge provides essential shade/wind protection. This biological skin is crucial to survival ofephemerals; happily, it provides a colour display of leaves and berries and visual screening, acts as a snow fence, as well as discouraging children from walking or chasing each other through the miniforest. As we are located across the street from an elementary grade school, children are seen and heard!
Successional dynamics are provided by trembling aspen (12-18 ft. trees), white pine (2-10 ft.), tulip poplar (6 ft.), yellow oak (5 ft.). This overstory is underlain by an understory of blue ash, shagbark hickory, red oak hop hornbeam, black maple, and beech, typical forest elements. Such a theoretical forest culminating in a maple-beech association would take 50 years to achieve not a likelihood in my lifetime. However, the concept of a forest potentially able to undergo dynamic change due to competition is designed into the forest system; as manager then, I can control the speed and direction of change; extracting firewood, and edible berries. If an area ofa quarter-acre were available for conversion to forest, such successional changes due to competition would be more easily demonstrated than in a 1/100th acre patch.
Edge species, besides the dogwoods and nannyberries, are prickly ash, Carolina rose, redbud, witch hazel, sassafrass and flowering dogwood; although, the latter does not flower well due to frost damage, it does set flower buds.
Adding 15 bushels ofsandy soil to the
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section north ofthe path raised the level 8-12 inches, providing needed wind protection for the orchids and turks cap lilies growing in the acidic organic soil area.
The Park and Tilford natural garden in Vancouver, symbolic of the west coast douglas fir forest landscape, acted as a stimulus, demonstrating that industrial basins could become attractive garden spots. The tiny natural garden planted at The Niagara Parks Commission School of Horticulture at Niagara Falls also proved instructive.
Planting the forest
IfI had to do itall overagain, I would not plant simultaneously. Rather, 1 would first put in the dogwood/nannyberry/prickly ash and flowering raspberry edges, as well as the aspen, white pine, and tulip poplar overstory , and allow them to adapt to the site within two to three years. Rocks, stumps, topsoil for relief, organic soil for orchids and lilies would be added as they became available. Mulch (pine needles, wood chips, leaves) is required to suppress weeds and grass. As shade intensified from closure of the tree canopies and as the edges filled in, the more fastidious trilliums, bloodroot, spring beauty, mandrake, Solomon s seals and trout lilies could then be added to selected spots. Doing it too rapidly (over two to three growing seasons) as I did, results in unnecessary plant mortality. Such especially sensitive woodland plants as nodding trillium, red Trillium, blue cohosh, bellwort, gingseng and maidenhair fern can be easily lost due to excessive sunlight.
To date, I have planted about 125 species; after three years about 100 are doing well, about five herbaceous species are struggling to stay alive. A planting schedule phased over five to ten years would be ideal.
As viewed from across the road in summer, the mini-forest presents a fairly solid front of growth. In winter with no leaves present, the pine, pine stump and limestone rocks provide some accent. Larger limestone blocks would improve the general appearance
in winter but would have to be brought in by truck and derrick!
Obtaining planting stock
Obtaining planting stock is a touchy subject with conservationists, as well it should be. The major trees are best purchased from a nursery: maple, white pine, tulip poplar, redbud, flowering dogwood, blue ash, red and yellow oak. Shrubsand many herbscan be found by contacting local development companies and rescuing plants before the bulldozer moves in. Most of the shrubs can be lifted at any time (even in JulyAugust), severely pruned, and planted, although spring or fall moving is best. The conservation authorities, before flooding a new reservoir, will give permission to remove plants. Lifting plants along the roadside, in public parks and in private woodlots is not only destructive, but asking for trouble. With the amount ofbulldozer activity around the
The schematic layout of the miniaturized Carolinian and maple-beech forest established in 1969 on a front lawn 40 ft. deep by 65 ft. wide in Waterloo, Ontario as a demonstration of using native Ontario plant materials instead of traditional British and European gardening. The planting scheme is as follows: 1) Gray, red osier dogwood and nannyberry edge (screen); 2) Redbud or flowering dogwood; 3) Flowering raspberry; 4) Trembling aspen; 5) Oaks, black -maple and beech; 6) Acidic-organic-soilloving plants; 7) White pine; and 8) Black walnut.
Priveway
124 Amos Avenu Waterloo Garage
urban area, enormous quantities of excellent native plant material is being lost annually so that all it generally takes is a phone call to the developer to get permission to salvage such stock. Service clubs, schools, or boy scouts routinely could do urban plant salvage work and, through public sales, provide nature stock to gardeners while providing their organizations with operating revenue.
If the mini-forest has been designed properly to accommodate sun, wind, drainage and soil type, a little weed picking and clipping are all that is needed. If beech are put on the sunny and windy side, as I did. they slowly die or regress; until the aspen provided some shady relief. Other plants, such as red trilliums, not in their proper habitat similarly may exhibit distress by not flowering or by drying up prematurely in July. Thus a great deal of sensitivity develops quickly between gardener and forest as new species are introduced. and as old favourites are propagated or swapped with friends.
All material from the lawn and gar-
den (rotten apples, tree clippings, lawn clippings, leaves, wood ashes from the fireplace) goes into the forest. Annually. it recycles about four to eight bushels of such material. However, it must be placed carefully so as to be in small amounts, and not unsightly. In addition, I annually add about five pounds of 1010-10 fertilizer to the forest principally around the dogwood-nannyberry edge and dug into the base ofthe major trees. Pine needles (four bushels) are needed each year to maintain the acidic conditions around the orchids.
Annual tree growth in the past four years has averaged better than one foot, with the aspens growing as much as three feet; shrub growth has been between one and 1'; feet per year. Watering during establishment to augment growth is required.
Trimming of the edges the flowering raspberry, and the various vines (especially the Virginia creeper) has been necessary three to four times a year to keep the forest edges tidy.
Vandalism to date has been low. Oc-
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casionally, school children have tried to pick trilliums, but we attempt gently to tell them what we are trying to accomplish, and have had little repeat problem. Prickly ash added to the tight shrub edge seems to discourage children from entering on the driveway side. Dogs and cats regularly add theirs to the ecosystem to be recycled, adding to the biomass .
Populations of grasshoppers were troublesome the first two years. Apparently. natural colonization with a wide variety of predatory insects now controls them. Besides the tent caterpillars physically removed once and green worms which devoured (and eventually killed) the columbine, I have had no need to spray nor have I had complaints from neighbours about insect pests. Spiders, caterpillars, butterflies, moths, earthworms, millipedes. centipedes. ants, and plant lice are present but not abundant. Mice. garter snakes, toads, song sparrows, waxwings. bluejays. robins. chickadees. starlings, English sparrows, juncos, and kingbirds enjoy the strawberries. raspberries, dogwood. nannyberry fruits and the insects. Rarely have our cats caught birds. but they enjoy the action, and have caught the mice.
Removal of attractive berries having poisonous properties, such as baneberry. blue cohosh, Virginia creeper, is done to avoid having little children pick them and go home with a belly-ache.
Neighbourhood response
When a house was sold nearby, the salesman remarked that about half of the prospective buyers thought the mini-forest was messy . while the other half responded favourably. There is no doubt that the first three years. during establishment. a mini-forest can look messy . However. once the trees begin to close. it gradually begins to look like a forest left over by the developer on purpose. Calling it a * rock garden seemed to soothe one neighbour s apprehension.
Some neighbours now bring their guests over to see it , and we have had one open house in spring for the local
Trellis / 13
nature buffs. Being able to read, unseen in a lounge chair, and having guests in summer able to spill over into the front garden shielded from the street. all are attributes quickly appreciated by neighbours and friends.
As a symbolic Ontario garden, it is not yet viewed this way by the community. Maybe urbanization and rural land-use destruction have permanently dulled perception of what Ontario used
Above, the mini-forest on the author's Waterloo front lawn as seen from across the street. Below, a view of the area enclosed by the mini-forest in front of the home, looking toward the street. Both photos taken in June 1974 by the author.
to be. However, I remain optimistic that someday the heritage garden idea might take holdcreating a garden style as typically symbolic of Ontario as the Japanese garden is of Japan. As an arboretum, it is successful, requiring minimal management to keep some species (lilies, orchids) from being swamped by competitors, but demonstrating that a large variety of native plants can live harmoniously in a fraction (1/100th) of an acre.
If the present rock-birch tree-petunia landscaping syndrome can be mellowed by a few heritage gardens ofnative Ontario plants, visible reminders to young urbanites of the rich natural and visual environment in the new world, perhaps we will find young people paying more attention to land-use planning, regional aesthetics, and urban open-space management. Allowing them to participate as landscape designers and environmental managers even on micro-bits of landscape can be an introduction to the macro-landscape of the space ship earth. School yards, industrial areas, front and back gardens, all presently
maintained at $1,000/acre/year in monocultures of grass, represent an imposed sterility and a negative example of diversified land management. Portions of these spaces can be devoted to real functioning ecosystems in which we all can be active participants. Fraser Darling, the British ecologist who pioneered the field, summed it up in his recent series of lectures Wilderness and Plenty .
The near landscape is valuable and lovable because of its nearness, not something to be disregarded and shrugged off; it is where children are reared and what they take away in their minds to their long future. What ground could be more hallowed.
Maybe your son or daughter, or your neighbour s children will be the future Fraser Darlings, having found themselves and ecology in their urban miniforests. Anyway, it is nice to think that it could happen, that future naturalists would be able to discover nature on 1/100th ofan acre rather than having to watch someone else s safari on TV.
"A NICE PLACE TO BROWSE"
Open from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm Monday to Saturday; 11:00 am to 5:00 pm Sundays.
Too much of Something or, maybe not Enough!
Betty Naylor
Whatever is your concern, you can t say that the experts of the Gardening Under Lights group are not obliging. Nor can you say that they always agree with one another. These differences of opinion occurred at the January 8 meeting of the group as members asked what could possibly be the matter with some carefully nurtured cutting or plant; the replies varied greatly. It could be too much water; not enough water; too much fertilizer; not enough, and so on. Everyone enjoyed the good-natured banter among the panelists: chairman Gib Milne, Bill Bockhop, Bob Turner, Les Marsh, Ernie Pope, and Ciyic Garden Centre executive director, George Sinclair.
The meetings are very informal and informative. The information is all there, all the members have to do is to sort it out and apply the knowledge useful for their particular growing conditions.
Bill Bockhop had a demonstration table set up, including a bottle ofwater for misting. The cuttings got misted and so did the panelists! He talked as he demonstrated his method of taking cuttings ofbegonias, variegated ivy and geraniums. He has a most original method of ensuring a constant supply of water and humidity: he trims different sized styrofoam coffee cups and inserts one in the other, after punching holes in the sides ofthe lower cup, coffee stirrers are inserted in the upper cup to act as supports for the plastic covering placed over the cutting and the pots. The result is a very effective propagator. He feels that small pots are essential to keep the soil from souring.
The next meeting will be at 8:00 pm on Wednesday, April 9. If you are at all interested in growing plants under lights indoors, do come out and talk with at least a hundred others in various stages of advancing the science in their own ho. ses or apartments
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Events in blue held at Civic Garden Centre; more data from the Centre (445-1552) unless a specific phone number given. All other events (in black) held elsewhere; for data call phone number given. All events begin at 8:00 pm unless otherwise stated.
Sun Mon
MARCH 30
Library & Shops CLOSED all day
Southern Ontario Orchid S. at 1 pm (759-1439)
6
Shops & Library open 1 to 5 pm
13
Shops & Library open 10 amto5 pm
20
Shops & Library open 1 to 5 pm
ARTS & CRAFTS SHOW 27
11 am to 5 pm
Touch of Japan'' Bonsai show at O.1.S.E. (782-2403)
Abbreviations used as follows: H. = Horticultural; S. = = Garden Club. Note: Civic Garden Centre Shop and Library open 9:00 am to 5:00 pm, Monday to Friday, plus additional hours listed below.
Society; and G.C. Tues
31
APRIL
Men's Garden Club
1
Shops & Library open 11 am to 5 pm
Shops & Library open 10 amto 5 pm
ADVANCED GARDENING 7
COURSE at 1:30 and 8:00 gm. see page 19
eorgina Brock H.S. (432-2592) Oshawa G.C. (728-8302)
Shops & Library open 7 to 9 pm
ADVANCED GARDENING ] 4
COURSE at 1:30 and 8:00 pm, see page 19
Toronto Bonsai S. (782-2403)
Agincourt G.C. (294-8475)
Shops & Library open 7 to 9 pm
ADVANCEDGARDENING
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EastToron?c.)H. & Dahlia S. (691-3665)
Kingsway-Sunnylea H.S. (2399316)
Mount Albert H.S. (473-2120)
Newmarket H.S. (895-4145)
Scarborough H.S. (282-8728)
Stouffville H.S. (640-1922)
Westway H.S. (247-6093)
Woodbridge H.S. (851-0300)
Shops & Library open 7 to 9 pm
ADVANCED GARDENING 2 8
COURSE at 1:30 and 8:00 pm, see 19
Ajax H.S. (az-m 55)
Markham & District H.S. (2943267)
North York H.S. (221-2158)
Roseland H.S. (893-1288)
Shops & Library open 7 to 9 pm
Highrise Gardeners of 8 Toronto North Toronto H.S. (488-4749) Richmond Hill H.S. (884-2286)
Wed
Shops & Library open 7 to 9 pm
Shops & Library open 7 to9 pm
Aurora H.S. (727-6232)
Pickering H.S. (942-1603)
Thornhill H.S. (889-0231)
15
Brampton.S,(459-0119) 22
Lakeshore H.S. (27 2517
Lake Simcoe (Sutton) H.S. (476-3087
Schomberg H.S. (939-2146)
CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE 29 ANNUAL MEMBERS MEETING
Etobicoke H. 5255)
Shops & Library
Gardening Unc Group
Unionville H.S.
Uxbridge H.S. (
Shops & Library
Cloverleaf G.C.
Shops & Library
Brooklin H. S. (
Swansea H.S. { (
| (re2- 2
pen7to9pm Shops & Library open 7 to 9 pm
¢ Lights 9
97-1430) 12-6959)
pen7to9 pm
178-3476) ] 6
Canadian Rose S. Spring ] 0 Meeting
Daffodil De(:! on behalf of 4 Canadian Cancer Society
Shops & Library open 7 to 9 pm
Beaverton H.S. (426- 7 7878)
East York G.C. (425-7496)
Riverdale H.S. (466-4234)
pen7to9pm
53790 23 52-1001)
Shops & Library open 7 to 9 pm
Canadian Chrysanthe- 24 mum & Dahlia S. (2232964)
ARTS & CRAFTS SHOW 25 7:30 to 10 pm
Shops & Library open 1to 5 pm
Shops & Library open 7 to 9 pm
Shops & Library open 7 to 10 pm
Shops & Library open 10 amto 5 pm
ARTS & CRAFTS SHOW 26 10 am to 10 pm Touch of Japan Bonsai show at O.1.S.E. (782-2403)
Shops & Library open 10 am to
30 MAY 1 2 3
Shops & Library open 10 amto 5 pm
Horticultural research to-day is complex and, to a large extent, dependent upon a wide variety of techniques which provide basic answers to all sorts of problems which can be solved only through painstaking effort on the part of the scientist. At one time the basic tools of horticultural research consisted of a good eye for detecting differences in varieties orstrains, a plot ofland, possibly a cold frame or a hot bed, and if lucky, a bit of a greenhouse in which to carry out plant studies. The rule of thumb seemed to be if there was a difference between varieties or treatments it was clearly visible to the eye. When breeding was done it consisted of bringing together what looked like good par-
Above, gas analysis and recording equipment used in post-harvest physiology studies of fruit etc. Below, a series of growth chambers used in exposing plants to air pollutants in order to assess the effects. Photos by University of Guelph.
Horticultural Research is now very Scientific to aid You
I. L. Nonnecke*
ents, making the crosses and then waiting for the results. Again, it would seem that the art ofdetecting meaningful differences was something one either had or did not have.
The true horticultural researcher had the green thumb and a knack for growing plants. In the early days ofhorticultural research, little attention was given to whether other investigators could repeat the work and get the same results.
To-day horticultural research utilizes a wide array of techniques. More often than not the results ofexperiments lead to improving not only current information but the research techniques too.
Plant improvement
The plant breeder relies on many tools to guide him through the maze of genetic variation in plants. Microscopic and chemical techniques have made it possible to locate chromosomes the carriers of heredity and further determine where each gene is located. Thus, breeding done to-day is not merely an art but a precise scientific process which pins down the characters sought and guides the breeder to the ultimate improved variety. It is now possible to obtain a ball-park prediction of what he will get. Having made the cross, the data obtained from the resultant material is tested by elaborate statistical analyses to determine whether or not the material is improved and if so on what counts. Unless a new variety is demonstrated to be better than the old ones in yield, quality, appearance, disease-and-insect resistance, it is not released.
Quality
At best, the quality of horticultural
*Dr. Nonnecke is chairman ofthe University ofGuelph s Department of Horticultural Science,within Ontario Agricultural College, Guelph, Ontario.
plant products can be difficult to determine, especially when the more important characteristics of horticultural plants are elusive essences, aromas, or tenderness. In their desire to become objective in measuring these characteristics, researchers began to use precise measuring devices that would in fact respond to all plant characteristics. Thus texture was first measured by squeezing, later by puncturing, eventually harnessing these techniques to machines such as spring loaded cherry testers; to the Christel texture meter which used a form of hydraulics to measure resistance; to electrically powered shearing blades which imitated the action of teeth; to the modern hydraulically-electronically controlled texture testers that can measure the skin toughness of a pea, or an apple, or the strands in a peach, the stone cells in a pear, the toughness ofsweet corn, or the firmness of a potato. However, quality is more than texture: it is also flavour.
To-day we measure the aroma from fruit with a gas analyzer which tells
exactly the maturity condition of that fruit. Because quality is a fleeting thing in most horticultural plants, which must be kept for long periods of time in storage, we have learned to use controlled atmosphere storage where the oxygen is almost entirely replaced with carbon dioxide to slow down the loss ofquality. Other types of products such as carrots, onions and potatoes to name a few, are maintained at peak quality in storage by carefully regulating temperature and humidity, together with steady air movement through the commodity. To measure potato quality we take readings of the sugar-starch relationship.
The modern horticulturist uses chemical analyses to seek out causes of offflavor in fruits and vegetables to learn more about how to prevent the build-up of these undesirable characteristics.
Plant research
In contrast to the by-product type of research referred to above where the fruits of plant growth are examined in detail, the horticulturist is still deeply
ADVANCED GARDENING COURSE
Six more popular garden talks are offered by The Civic Garden Centre following the six-week course which ends March 10. These six, on different topics, are available to members and non-members alike.
The course begins on Monday, March 17, and runs: for six weeks at 1:30 and 8:00 pm at the Centre in Edwards Gardens, Don Mills (Lawrence and Leslie). No talk will be offered on Easter Monday, March 31.
March 17 Plants Under Lights Indoors Some New Ideas by Mrs. Leni Forsdike, The Plant Room, Hornby, Ontario
March 24 Home Greenhouses Getting More from Your Space by George W. Dalby, Superintendent of Parks, The Niagara Parks Commission
April 7 Pruning Fruit and Flowering Shrubs by Knox Henry, General Manager, Brookdale-Kingsway Nurseries Ltd.
April 14 Landscaping the Suburban Garden by W. E. (Bill) Hartnoll, Garden Broadcaster and writer.
April 21 Shade Trees Their Choice, Care and Maintenance by Lawrence C. Sherk, Chief Horticulturist, Sheridan Nurseries Ltd.
April 28 Annual Flowers A Quick Way to Colour Your Garden by Denis McQuestion, Etobicoke Parks and Recreation Services Dept.
Cost: $3 for each talk for non-members of the Centre; $2.50 for members. Members may register for all six talks at a fee of only $11. Call and Register NOW, 445-1552!
Trellis / 19
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concerned with the handling and managing ofthe whole plant from seed to final product. As contrasted to days gone by when the use of field plots was about the only tool available, to-day s researcher uses situations where light, temperature and moisture can be fully controlled and measured throughout the life of the plant. Greenhouses are used to some extent for this, but in the main, growth cabinets and chambers are more frequently used to observe the planf s responses to tiny variations in any of its basic requirements. Furthermore, by establishing special air-tight chambers where the air can be artificially polluted. it is possible to observe first hand how plants react to ozone and other forms of air pollutants.
The eye-ball technique for observing differences when studying plant responses has given way to the development of various types of experiments that can be carefully analyzed. The modern way to process data is to put them on a computer. This improves ac-
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Horticultural research to-day
Modern horticultural research uses every tool at its disposal. Research with tissue testing has led to better understanding of apple nutrition: working with plant growth regulators had led to selectivity of herbicides in controlling weeds in most crops; the use of more precise seeding methods is leading to drastically changed concepts in food - crop yield expectations per unit of land: the research into longer storage of fruits and vegetables has brought the most exotic foods to every man s table. Horti- cultural research has matured rapidly and people now are becoming sufficiently aware of its contributions to appreciate its significance to society.
Above, growth cabinets are used to grow plants under controlled light, temperature and humidity conditions. Below, preparation of tissues for cytogenetic studies is painstaking and requires sanitary conditions. Photos by University of Guelph.
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Succulents are rather static plants; they don t seem to change very much. In fact, it is sometimes difficult for the untrained eye to notice that growth is in progress. Many of them do not have leaves as we expect leaves to be, so that they may be considered quite lifeless. It is, though, always startling when these seemingly lifeless plants spring into flower.
The Stapelia or carrion flower is one genus of plants that contains some rather astounding species that exhibit this unusual quality. Stapelias have mostly erect, four-angled. fleshy stems that at first glance appear much like a cactus and many gardeners are apt to be confused and think of them as spineless cacti. Although they have odd stems, which in themselves are attractive, it is their differently coloured and marked star-shaped flowers that set them apart. In some ways they resemble star-fish and in fact that name is often appended to them.
carrion or star-flower in bloom. Photo by Agriculture Canada.
Here
are some vnusual Succulents that are easy to grow in dry Homes
Arthur R. Buckley
Some species lack the offensive odour
The name carrion flower, used as a common name for the group. is quite descriptive, for many produce the most foul-smelling blooms imaginable. In fact, they are not pleasant to have around the home when in bloom because of the scent of the flowers!
When the plants are growing in abundance in their native habitat the blowflies get tangled up in the pollen as they land to deposit their eggs and thus spread the pollen from flower to flower. As with most insects, the blow-fly becomes an unwitting pollinating insect for the plant.
However. most other insects seek nectar or flower juices, but the poor blowfly receives no such reward, for once the eggs hatch, the larvae, which can only exist on decaying organic matter, cannot survive in such a location.
There are many species of stapelias. Most of them are more often seen in botanic gardens than in home collections. Of particular interest, on the basis of size, is the giant carrion flower (Stapelia gigantea). The blooms of this fantastic plant sometimes measure as much as 12 to 18 inches in diameter. The large balloon-like buds that form before the flowers open are in themselves unusual and attractive. They open into salvershaped, very hairy. purple and lightbrown flowers marked with crimson lines.
The most common species, and one that is usually grown as a house plant is the variegated carrion flower (Stapelia variegata). This species is much less offensive than the rest. for its fetid odour is apparent only upon close contact. It is available in various shades of red. purple and brown, heavily mottled and speckled with yellow for contrast.
The
~ Beware not to overwater
The noble stapelia (Stapelia nobilis) hasflowers pale yellow and red in colour and quite showy that are almost as large as the giant carrion flower.
Stapelias are easily grown from seeds orcuttings. Ifyou have a friend who has a good specimen, ask him to select a stem that can be cut offat the base. Dry this on a shelf near a sunny window for about ten days, then insert it in moist sand and it will root in about three weeks time.
Seeds are also obtainable in collections of succulent mixtures from many Canadian seed firms. I find it best to sow these on milled sphagnum moss as you would seeds of annuals. Make up a seed compost containing a mixture of equal parts ofsand and soil and top this with a half inch of milled sphagnum moss which can be purchased from a garden centre or supply store. Place the seeds on top ofthe sphagnum and cover with another light layer of moss.
After the seeds are sown. place the container in a well-lighted window and water in the same way as annuals. Some shading may be necessary to keep the moss moist until germination takes place.
Established plants of stapelias are as easy to grow as most succulents. They grow nicely in a good well-drained compost, such as one composed of one part soil, one part broken brick. one part sand and one part peat moss. The mixture should be fortified with one tablespoonful of superphosphate (0-20-0) or similar fertilizer, per pail ofsoil mixture.
One amateur grower of stapelias told me that he had little trouble growing the species named here, but when it came to the more experimental ones. they usually rotted off which made him almost toss them all out. He knew the problem was overwatering. causing the plants to rot at the surface of the soil. There never was a sign of any root rot, just the plant tissue adjacent to the soil line, caused by a buildup of water on the soil surface. which under the plants natural conditions would doubtless be
evaporated away readily by the sun, hot climate and wind conditions.
Few if any insect problems
This friend told me that he had discovered the solution to preventing loss ofstapelias found to be rotting, and that was to cut off the plant s rotten portion, let it dry as described earlier, and reroot the plant in moist sand. Then the plant would be fine for another period. But, he thought this procedure was silly, and if there was not some way ofgrowing them continuously short ofputting a small sign as to when each was watered, he would stop growing these special varieties. After all, he grew a wide selection ofplants, not strictly succulents and cacti, and hence it was impossible to remember just when the stapelias were last watered.
Remembering the stapelias native habitat, where the soil is dry to great depths, and excess water is drawn down and away from the sensitive-to-fungus above-ground stem, my friend decided on a new solution to the problem. Now he pots all his stapelias with the lower part of the roots in the soil mix previously mentioned, and about % to ' inch of the upper part of the roots' left bare. This area is filled with gravel or pebbles even perlite. He says the stapelias don t seem to mind that a part of their roots are partially exposed. being clothed in gravel or perlite. And. now if he makes the mistake of overwatering, it readily soaks away from the sensitive stem, and there is no more rotting problem.
As to care of stapelias, the plants should be placed in a bright window with full sunshine if possible. especially during winter. They must not be overwatered, especially in winter, unless you adopt my friend s special form of protection from over watering. A good monthly soaking will usually suffice, except if the plants are near a heat vent, they might need a regular weekly watering.
Generally, insects are not a problem with these plants, but watch for mealy bug and scale when you first obtain plants. If these insects are present wash the plants and then dip them in a solution containing one teaspoonful ofnicotine sulphate per gallon of water.
| suppose this article would be better named Why Learn the Names of Plants? because there are some persons who have a complete mental block in respect to any and all names for them. A typical conversation: The leaves on one of my plants are curling up.
Yep. What kind of a plant is it?
Oh, uh, uh, uh. It s about so high and has round leaves. Hopeful look.
Do you know its name?
Gee, | have no idea. Curtain. Learning about plants starts with naming them. Identification. It is, of course, possible to live with a plant for years, and grow it well, without having the vaguest notion what it is called. But ifthere is any variety and a need fordifferent culture; if you need assistance
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Why should You
use Latin Botanical Names for your Plants?
George A. Elbert*
from anyone or wish to do any reading about it; you had better know the plant by its name. When you have its name you can communicate. Without it you cannot. Also, when you know it, the name imparts a separate personality to the plant. It is fixed in your mind and you can tend it with a sense for its difference. No longer is it just something green among greenery.
The second stage of resistance is that against Latin epithets. It is a dead language and for most laymen stirs memories of those impossibly boring sessions which they might have had with Caesar s wars or of their frantic efforts to avoid studying it at all. I was one ofthe former and learned darned little Latin. But it presenis me no difficulties.
If it s about Gardening. . . ask Toronto s Civiec Garden Centre. Membership, including ten issues per year of TRELLIS only $5 for 12 months.
The system makes plant identification relatively simple
Most people who are frightened of the Latin take refuge in the common names. The trouble is that these names are not common enough. They are different in every language and often change from region to region. Plant dealers just invent these names to satisfy the inhibitions of their customers. But these names are essentially meaningless and could be applied to almost any other plant equally well.
An invented common name is given to cultivars or hybrids. You may have only to learn the word Rosa for the genus of the rose flowers. But if you want to know which of the thousands and thousands of cultivars you grow you will have to learn something like Peace, President Kennedy , or Black Prince etc., etc. And, if you go deeper into the matter of roses, there are those endless lists of names of hybrids produced over centuries of culture. It is really much more difficult.
Latin is reserved for plants in their original or wild state or as an identification for the genus and species of a cultivar. More about these three words later.
We say Sinningia speciosa for one of the original plants of the Gesneriad family. We say Sinningia Doll Baby to identify Doll Baby as a hybrid common name for a cross in the Sinningia genus. Recently a new Dracaena hybrid was named Baby Doll . Without the full name Dracaena Baby Doll you would be pretty much at sea, or think that somebody had inverted themselves.
Back in the 18th century, Latin was adopted as the language for the systematic naming of plants. It was chosen to avoid national susceptibilities (imagine the French, German and Italian botanists all naming their plants in their own languages). And, it was one language which, among learned men, served as a means of communication across all the frontiers. The forms used in botanical practice are quite simple and a real mastery of Latin has never been a requirement. Simple rules are laid down fordescribing and naming and any oaf can follow them with a bit of practice. So we need not be frightened by the
whole thing. Systematization made it possible to find out and identify the name of a plant with relative ease, wherever it may grow in the world.
Start with the family, then onto the genus and species
We can understand more easily why it is ridicu'ous to fight Latin when we recognize the fact that we are using it all the time when discussing many common plants. We say Rhododendron, Rose (Rosa), Violet (Viola), Philodendron, Peony (Paeonia), Impatiens, Vinca, Cotoneaster, Delphinium, Zinnia, Verbena, Thyme (Thymus), Carrot (Carota), Begonia, and so on ad infinitum, without a second thought. The second thought is that these are all the names of botanical genera. But the same person who uses these names all the time will discourse on his inability to learn Latin names. The trouble is not learning Latin names, it is simply the business of learning a new name for an unfamiliar plant. It is no different than meeting somebody for the first time and not remembering his name. You either bother to learn it because he owes you money or you hope for a business deal or because he is the boss. Or, you forget it because he does not make a good impression or you are just not interested. So it is with plants. You want to know the plant learn its name.
We do not use the family name of a plant when naming it. But it is a name worth knowing. The families are those large conglomerations which have a structural similarity. And, it is to the family we go first to identify the plant we may have bought. Since the families are relatively few in number, their characteristics are our resource in identifying a plant which has been acquired with no name at all. This is not the subject of the article but some familiarity with the classification of families helps you find the plant by its appearance. For instance, a four petalled flower will belong to one of a limited number of families, tube flowers to others, flowers with many stamens to another group, and so on.
The names ofthe families in Latin all end in aceae, A-SEE-E Rosaceae, Acanthaceae, Gesneriaceae, and so forth. Easy. There is always some genus which
has the same name as the family. And, sometimes nearly the whole family consists ofone genus, Begonia being an example.
A more numerous classification is the genus. Its name is the first one of two which are used in all botanical nomenclature. Sinningia pusilla, Cuphea hyssopifolia the first name is the genus and the second the species . The genus is often rather willfully named or given that of a well known botanist or even a politician. Some of the names are very ancient, having been common names before the systemization of botanical nomenclature took place. Viola, Rosa and Iris are examples. The genus name usually has an ending in us , a , um , etc., following similar Latin endmgs. Ifthe word is of Greek derivation (Rhododendron) you may have a Greek ending. Don t worry about it. Just learn the name!
Now, how to learn the names
Every genus is broken up into very closely related plants called species. The name ofa species agrees in gender with the ending of the genus. A follows a and us follows us and so forth. Though it is not always that simple, and funny things do happen. One Begonia was named after a lady. But, either because of male chauvinism or bad Latin, the species was, for a long time, given a Latin male termination. That was until Jack Golding of the Begonia Society came along and threw the whole plant community into confusion by proving that all the books and lists were wrong and the lady deserved to have her sex expressed in the species name.
One of the conveniences of species names is that they are often descriptive. The Latin words are often very close to English. We should not forget that there is a good deal ofromance in our speech. Examples of different adjectives for hairy are, ciliatus, hirsutus, hirtus, hispidus, incanus, lanatus, pilifer, pilosus, pubens, pubescens, strigosus, tomentosus, etc. Several of these are immediately understandable. They also quite accurately describe the degree of hairiness. Yellow can be flavus, aureus, canarinus, stramineus, citrinus, sulphureus, luteus, croceus (yellow like
a crocus), ochraceus (ochre), and so forth. There are adjectives to describe erect and drooping plants, leaf characteristics and flower forms.
Now, how do you learn these names.
1) Insist on the nurseryman or plant seller providing a Latin name for each plant.
2) If he does not and is obviously ignorant ofit, consult a botany text. There are excellent books which are easy to use. Best of all for indoor plants is Exotica. The smaller edition is fine for most identifications and if it isn t there you will find it in the same family in the big Exotica. When you are more familiar with the families, you may consult Hortus Second by Liberty Hyde Bailey or the same gentlemen s Encyclopedia of Horticulture.
3) Write it down. Writing always aids memory. When you are at a nursery or plant dealer see that labels are made up or make them up yourself and insist on the spelling out ofthe names. Take your time and get it right the first time.
4) Think the name when you are tending the plant. Your children have names and you sometimes use one for your spouse. Even dogs have them. Why not give your plants the same dignity. When speaking ofthe plant in conversation stick to the Latin name. People will think you are much smarter than you are and the boss will give you a raise. If you are a wife your husband may even begin to respect you. It is a beautiful oneupsmanship ploy.
5) After a while you will find it is just as easy to sayJacobinia carnea as it is to remember that your son is Robert.
A final problem pronunciation. Don t worry about it. Pronounce the names just as you would if they were English. Listen to knowledgeable people and imitate the pronunciation of those who are familiar with the names. I am pretty conversant with plant names in Latin but make mistakes in pronunciation all the time. Only the other day I realized that I had been pronouncing Malpighia (named after an Italian botanist Malpighi and sounds like bad pig ) coccigera like coachiggera instead of coxiggera. I stand corrected. You can do at least as well.
/ March 1975
More good Books for Garden Planning including several new ones at our Bookshop
Marilyn Waugh, Director
Are you tired of winter t00? Looking forward to your summer garden will help to bring spring around the corner.
Many ofour readers are planning their first flower garden, others are deciding to try a vegetable garden, and some are going to grow their own berries and fruits for the first time. Useful books covering gardening in general are: Chatelaine s Gardening Book, Lois Wilson, $12.50; Gardening For All, P. Hunt, Ed., $9.95; Basic Gardening Illustrated, Sunset Books, $1.95: Gardening For Beginners, F. Stark & C. Link, Eds., $3.50; The Greenthumb Garden Handbook, George Abraham, $7.95; and The Encyclopedia ofOrganic Gardening, J. 1. Rodale & Staff, Ed., $12.95.
All About Vegetables, Ortho Books, $3.95 gave many vegetable growers a good start last year and is available to help you this season. In addition we have How to Grow Your Own Vegetables, M. Kressy, $10.95; Vegetablesfor Today s Gardens, Milton Carleton, $2.40; and The Home Vegetable Garden, Brooklyn Series, $1.50. For the fruit growers, Fruitsfor the Home Garden, U. P. Hendrick, $2.95; and Growing Berries and Grapes, L. Riotte, $3.95 should prove to be valuable. Complementing the above are: The Greenthumb Book of Fruit and Vegetable Gardening, George Abraham, $7.95; and How to Grow Vegetables and Fruits by the Organic Method, J. 1. Rodale & Staff, Ed., $12.95.
Ifyour present garden is a trifle overrun, consult one ofour many books on successful pruning. We have stock of: How to Prune Almost Everything, John Phillip Baumgardt, $2.95; the Brooklyn Pruning Handbook, $1.50; Practical Pruning, R. Grounds, $3.50; and the Sunset Pruning Book, $1.95.
To help bring spring indoors and add life to your interior decor, you might read one of the following for timely ideas: Decorating With Plants and Flowers, Creative Home Library, $5.95: Complete Book of Flowers and Plantsfor Interior Decoration (with a section on Garden Rooms), E. Wheeler & A. Laskin, $11.95; and a new publication filled with exciting ideas, Living With Plants, A Book of Home Decorating and Plant Care, by W. Hawkey, $18.50.
Last, but not least, for the sedentary gardener we would suggest some good reading: Poor Man s Nosegay, L. Gordon, $13.95; the story of the flowers from a cottage garden, Old Man s Garden, A. Brown, $5.50; and The Reluctant Weekend Gardener, C. Wallach, $8.75.
MEN S GARDEN CLUB, APRIL 1
Tour of High Park Greenhouses with bus leaving Civic Garden Centre at 7:30 pm. Call 445-1552 for further information.
THE PLANT ROOM
6373 Trafalgar Road, Hornby, Ontario (North of Oakville) (416) 878-4984
Specializing in Miniature Gesneriad, Fern, Orchid and Terrarium plants. Visitors welcome every day 10 am to 4 pm (closed Wed.); other times by appointment. Catalogue: 35c.
Indoor Light GardeningSpecialists
e Terrarium lamps e Hobby greenhouses
e Wall &table e Humex grhse. models accessories
e Build-up mini- e Stewart gardengardens ware Exotic, Miniature & Terrarium Plants at The Plant Room, Hornby, 878-4984
EQUIPMENT CONSULTANTS AND SALES
Dunwin Dr., Mississauga, Ont. L5L 1A3 Phone 828-5825
As the outdoor gardening season approaches again, we are seeing an increasing volume ofgardening tools, aids and seeds moving out to members and friends. The Carter s Tested Seeds have just been in for a month and already many varieties are in short supply. Come in soon and pick your supply of flower and vegetable seeds from this well-known English seed house. Each packet has detailed cultural directions, along with an excellent colour sketch of the flower or vegetable.
Does the foundation planting in front ofyour home need pruning? Ifso, executive director, George Sinclair has lined up another series ofmore advanced gardening talks which has one slanted particularly for you. See the list on page 19 of this issue. And, your shop has a supply of both the wonderful Swiss Felco pruning secateurs, as well as the English Wilkinson Sword shears. Each pair is designed for a specific task, and you may examine them all before making a choice.
Though they were not in as this article was written, we should have our supply of quality tuberous begonias soon. If you are awaiting the supply. give us a call before making a special trip to get them. We 'll have the usual
PEFFERLAW PEAT COMPOSTED MANURE/ PEAT MIX
The ideal soil mix correctly balanced to fill the needs of all growing plants indoors or out.
G. T. STRAIN & SON
Cannington, Ont.
Phone (Toronto) 364-6068
Now available in the Centre s Shop Carter s famous Tested Seeds
Doris Weir, Shop Director
good range of colours, and the tubers should be better than ever.
If you are short of space because all the plants you are starting are taking up a lot of room indoors, and it s a bit too early to move them all outside to a cold frame. we have a suggestion. The Sunspot plant shelf, illustrated here, is ideal for attaching on any wall, or particularly along window frames, where you may not even have to put in any screws. Several ofthese along a window sill will allow you to put a number of plants up out of the way, and they ll get improved light too. Since they are economical. your allowance should enable you to buy a number for different windows in your house or apartment.
With all this talk of gardening supplies, I've short-changed our various gift items, hasty notes, flower arranging supplies etc. Best for you to come in regularly! By the way, have you seen our new shop yet?
The Sunspot plant shelf easily clips onto most window sills. Photo by A. C. Drysdale.
And, may the Editor have the Last Word
this month on Horticultural Societies
B think 1 think yes. I think we re going to make it! As I write this on February 10, it would appear that Trellis will be back on schedule effective with this issue which should reach most of our members by March 12. The earlier deadlines have imposed a hardship on some of the specialized groups who have not been able to firm up meeting dates in time to have them included in the Events Calendar. I ask each ofthese groups to try and set all their dates for the year and let me have them in one letter. If this is not done, individual items must be received at least 60 days in advance for inclusion in the Events Calendar.
We are still not without difficulties. The mail service continues to worsen. Having talked with a number of posties, the problem seems to be the sheer volume of 2nd and 3rd class mail that each has and the fact posties cannot carry everything on the day it reaches your local post office. One postie even suggested that if the volume of mail was going to keep going up that all posties should be supplied with mini-trucks to carry the mail.
As an example of the current inconsistencies ofdelivery, a recent issue mailed at Don Mills on January 28 took from two to nine days to be delivered to various points; examples (with number of days in brackets) are: Richmond Hill (2), Don Mills (3 and 4). Regina (5), and Toronto (9). Yes, Regina in five days and nearly twice as long right here in Toronto! My suggestion is that members speak to their regular postie, show him Trellis, and ask that when he sees the mini-magazine each month, could he give it (them) priority. You might even suggest you'll pass on old issues to him (or extra copies obtained at the Centre) in return for this favour particularly if he or his wife is interested in gardening!
As we move much closer to our press date, it now (February 24) appears that the postal strike will delay the dispatch of this issue to the post office, and thus its delivery to you. The same problem befell the February issuejust a few days ago. All of this is unfortunate we did try! Since the calendar for March was almostcomplete in our January issue, Civic Garden Centre members will at least be briefly informed as to events. Hopefully the strike situation will be settled soon and you will still receive this issue, as planned, during the early part of March.
Perhaps you are aware that Ontario Premier William G. Davis has announced the formation ofanew ministry in his government a Ministry ofCulture and Recreation. To be headed by the Honourable Robert Welch, the new ministry s programmes are 1o be directed to three distinct areas: 1) assisting in preserving and enhancing our cultural heritage: 2) promoting access to the benefits of citizenship including the opportunity to take part in sports and recreation programmes: and 3) stimulating the concept of individual and community excellence, whether in sports, the cultural and performing arts or other forms of cultural expression.
The second area opportunities to take part in sports and recreation programmes should be ofparticular interest to those involved in Ontario horticultural societies. Gardening is already the most popular active recreation involvement ofOntario residents. This is according to progress report No. 1 of the Ontario Tourism and Outdoor Recreation Planning Study (TORPS), dated 1974. The TORPS report indicates the top five leisure time activities are the same for men as women. The activities Trellis / 29
are: 1) television, 2) reading, 3) visiting friends and relatives, 4) relaxing or sitting and 5) gardening. Based on this data, gardening surpasses over 60 other activities such as travel, movies, and physical exercise.
The approximately 250 horticultural societies and garden clubs affiliated with the Ontario Horticultural Association (OHA) are a logical means of promoting garden- ing throughout the province. The societies boast over 45,000 members, and virtually all the work is voluntary. Surely the potential for even greater expansion ofgarden- ing lies in greater provincial government support both financial andstaffresources than is presently the case.
It appears to me that the logical move is for the horticultural societies and garden clubs along with the parent OHA, presently in the domain of the Agricultural and Horticultural Societies Branch ofthe Ministry ofAgriculture and Food, to be moved to the new Ministry of Culture and Recreation. Specifically they ought to be under the jurisdiction of the Sports and Recreation Bureau of this new ministry.
The present provincial expenditure for horticultural societies and garden clubs through the Agricultural and Horticultural Societies Branch would not exceed 100,000 annually. This is made up ofapproximately $60,000 in grants to the individ- ual societies (a maximum of $500 annually to any one society); the salary of the OHA secretary (Mr. R. F. Gomme); the salary of an assistant; and the office space, stationery, postage, travel, etc.
With all of the inflation over the last few years, the $500 maximum grant has not gone up for as long as I can remember. One probable reason is that less than 15 per cent ofthe 250 societies qualify for the maximum amount. The grants are based both on number ofmembers and qualifying expenditures (such as that on public plantings etc.). However, it hardly seems fair to penalize those two dozen or more societies who could obtain a substantially larger grant (if the limits were higher)just because the majority of societies are not so active.
The total expenditures for societies who do qualify for the maximum grant, are in each case, at least $1,500 per year, and.in some cases, amount to $50,000 per year. Obviously such groups are making a substantial effort at community beautification and if larger grants were available, even more incentive could be offered.
I believe there is a twofold answer to encouraging greater effort by all horticultu- ral societies and garden clubs within the Ontario Horticultural Association. First, the incentive grant limits should be at least quadrupled over a period offiveyears; and second, there should be much greater government field staff resources available to societies particularly in the outlying areas. Both ofthose, in my opinion, would be more readily available to societies if they were in the new Ministry of Culture and Recreation than they ever will be in Agriculture and Food.
Why? First, the money for increased grants: the new ministry will operate the even-more-recently-announced provincial lottery from which Mr. Welch anticipates an annual revenue of $40 million which is to be spent on his own ministry s sport, recreational and cultural activities. Second, the staff resources: these are already available through the Sports and Recreation Bureau s existing (and hopefully to be expanded) field staff. Presently, in addition to various specialist consultants in individual fields (such as arts, crafts, drama, outdoor recreation, sports, research, etc.) the province is divided into five regions and each region sub-divided into four or five areas. Each ofthe areas has a resident consultant who is available to travel about and meet with sport and recreation groups. The field consultants, ofcourse, have the full backup support of the head office specialist consultants.
While the increased grants could have substantial influence in encouraging more activities by many of the horticultural societies, I believe there is even greater poten- tial for improved results in beautification and participation in gardening through the 30 / March 1975
services of an enthusiastic field staff. Horticultural societies are voluntary organizations and as such, are subject to the vigour (or lack of it), of ever-changing elected boards and more particularly ofstrong, moderate or weak presidents. A good professional field staffer, acquainted with the individual executive members ofeach society in his or her area, should be able to give needed guidance to those societies needing it before any decline became apparent. Certainly a full time professional field staffof 26 (now, and likely to increase) would be far more effective than the present inadequate system of 16 (over-worked) part-time unpaid district directors.
The other factor involved in this suggestion that the horticultural societies and garden clubs be divorced from the agricultural societies, is that in being a part ofthe Ministry ofAgriculture and Food, these basically urban-orientatedhorticultural and gardening groups take on far too much of a rural focus.
Horticulture has traditionally been linked with agriculture. But, this does not mean it has been or is a happy marriage! I remember when I enrolled in The Niagara Parks Commission School of Horticulture reading that one of the things they were going to teach me was the ancient art of gardening . Gardening is an art and it s most definitely already a major recreation, as the TORPS readily points out. The time is right in Ontario for gardening to be a part ofthe expanded emphasis on culture and recreation where its benefits may be spread more readily to the increasing urban population. If you agree, please write to the Honourable Robert ~ Welch, Minister of Culture and Recreation, Parliament Buildings, Queen s Park, Toronto.
Just space enough this issue to advise ofa new staff member at the Civic Garden Centre. She is Mrs. Andre (Leslie) Beneteau, Co-ordinator of Programmes. Leslie has a background in crafts, and plenty ofenergy for the post. She has a small survey form available asking what the members interests are in the way ofcourses and programmes. If you have a suggestion, please get in touch. Art C. Drysdale, Editor.
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