Whether you have a balcony, border garden or grow commercially, you'll
find everything you need in Stokes Free catalogue. It s virtually a garden encyclopedia with it s complete instructions for each species. Discover many grower s secrets in these detailed directions which also let
you know whether you ll want to try that exotic new variety. Not every f tomato is the best ever developed and Stokes descriptions recognize this. Each description tells you both the pluses and minuses of varieties . . . we want you to have the best success with your garden so you'll reorder next year. Write today for your Free copy, It s the Grower s Bible.
TOKES
Centre s Features
A Salute to Our First Life Member, 9; The Early Beginnings of ' The Centre, 11; Jack Blair, 12.
The Front Cover
Crabapple Fruit, Malus, Photo by Lawrence C. Sherk.
Publication Committee for Trellis
Lawrence C. Sherk (Chairman), Audrey Allman, Jerry Maccabe, Gilbert Milne, Flavia Redelmeier.
Editor Sid Morris
#Trellisis publishedin the months ofMarch, April, May, June, September and November and distributed on or about the 15th of the month previous by the Civic Garden Centre, 777 Lawrence Avenue East, Don Mills, On= tario M3C 1P2. The Centre is locatedin Edwards Gardens, at Leslie Street and Lawrence Avenue East, the geographical centre of Metropolitan Toronto. Itis a non-profit gardening and floral arts information organization with open membership. Subscriptions to Trellis are only available through Centre membership ($10 per year). Opinions expressed within do not necessarily reflect those of the Centre. This is Volume 3, Number 6.
We've got a lot growing for you at THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE
You don't need a green thumb to enjoy everything we've got growing for you at THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE. Whether you live in a highrise, townhouse, special hideaway in the country or whatever we've got the ideas, inspiration and facts to help you garden gloriously all year. It's getting better all the time. Come December, the beautiful new $1.3million addition opens its doors with over four times more space for flower shows, meetings and horticultural exhibitions.
An expanded Horticultural Library with everything you always wanted to know about gardening but didn t know where to ask! A new larger Garden Shop with things to make gardening easier and more fun! Plus a spanking new Book Store!
Of course you'll be able to enrol in Members Only classes in horticulture and gardening. You'll also receive special members discounts on public lectures and demonstrations. More details? Phone THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE at 445-1552, now.
JOINNOW ONLY $10 A YEAR!
Please make cheques payable to THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE 777 Lawrence Avenue East DON MILLS, Ontario M3C 1P2
| wish to become a member as indicated above and enclose my cheque for $ . [] Please accept the additional amount as a donation to the work of The Civic Garden Centre which you will acknowledge with an official receipt for income tax purposes (Reg. No. 0228114-56-13). (11)
BONSAI AS A GIFT
Edith L. Kenzie
When any important gift-festival occurs, such as Christmas and Mother s Day, we at the Toronto Bonsai Society are frequently approached with the question Where can I buy a bonsai? This is our signal to very gently inquire is this for yourself or is it intended for a gift? You may wonder why it matters to us who the bonsai is for, but it matters very much to anyone who loves bonsai. We know so well not only what goes into the creation of a bonsai the time, effort, imagination, skill, training, love but also the constant care that is required to maintain it in perfect condition. It is not that the care actually takes so much time, but a bonsai cannot be neglected, even briefly.
The first thing we want to know is whether or not the new owner is successful with house plants. Usually anyone who loves plants and grows them well will be successful with bonsai. But if the inquirer says something to the effect that he or she has a purple thumb , we caution wariness in entering into this new field. We often say that a bonsai is more like a pet than a plant, and this truly conveys the commitment.
The chiefreason for this need ofcare is that bonsai are usually planted in a shallow pot. This is part of the effect, to enhance the appearance of age and stature. A small tree immediately looks bigger and more imposing when it is placed in a shallow container. (Exceptions are a cascading style, where the tree is trained down the side of a tall pot, or special conditions such as a large root which can only be safely reduced in size over a period of years.) -
So, because of the shallow pot, and the necessarily porous nature of bonsai soil, the tree dries out more quickly than ina deep pot, and a very few days without water can bring disaster. It is painful to recall the many times people have phoned me about a bonsai which they believe is in trouble. I ask them to bring it over for me to examine, and in nine cases out of ten, I realize at once that there is no hope. This applies most
frequently to conifers. A deciduous tree will show immediately, by wilting, that it needs water; a broad-leaved evergreen a little less quickly. However, in the case of pines, junipers, chamaecyparis varieties, spruce, etc., the needles may not indicate desiccation for perhaps weeks, when a greyish cast to the foliage arouses the feeling that all is not well. By this time it is usually too late to save it.
Pruning and repotting procedures are other important considerations, but we will deal with them in detail further on.
Sources
There are a number of plant stores and garden centres in and around Toronto that sell bonsai, and it is a good idea to shop around and see what is available, taking careful note of the condition of the trees. We are happy to
Needle Junipers, Juniperus rigida, 100 years old, at the National Arboretum, Washington D.C. Photo by Norman Haddrick.
see that most of the shops that carry bonsai for sale are making a real effort to understand bonsai requirements, maintain their stock in good condition, and supply the purchaser with sound advice. However, it is advisable to take a cautious attitude, and know as much as possible yourself, before spending the not-inconsiderable sum involved. Be very sure that the foliage is in fresh and vigorous condition, a good colour for its species, leaves free of disease and insects. Needles should be flexible, not dry and brittle. Browned needles toward the trunk-end of a branch may just be due to normal annual die-off, but evergreens should have green needles at all times soft green growing tips in spring and summer, firm needles and hard little buds at the tips in fall and winter.
Be sure that the design of the tree pleases you. Just because it has an unusual shape does not mean that it is necessarily beautiful. Your own artistic taste must be satisfied.
The plant should be firmly in the pot, not loose nor rocking about. The seller will not be happy about it if you push and shake the tree to test it in fact bonsai manners require that you never touch someone else s bonsai at all! However, you can ask him to demonstrate for you. The soil should appear porous not hard and baked-looking. Any moss should be green, and the whole thing well-cared for.
Where the plants are grown by the seller himself, you are on pretty safe ground. He knows his trees and their requirements, and should be able to give you expert guidance.
Cost
Anyone who prices bonsai for the first time is likely to be somewhat shocked. Like any other luxury item, it is quite possible that a plant may be overpriced. However, it helps to know what goes into the cost of a bonsai. In the first place, if the original tree has been produced on this continent, it will have cost the bonsaist in the neighbourhood of $5.00 to $25.00 or more, unpruned. If there are more than one tree in the pot, the cost goes up. In the case of a collected tree (one dug in the wilderness, possibly in remote, rocky and difficult terrain) the cost might be considerably more. If the seller has grown the tree himself from a seed or cutting, the years of care must be compensated for. Pots, nearly all of which are made in Japan or China, run from $1.50 for the smallest sizes, up to $200 for very wide, shallow trays used for group plantings. The average bonsai pot for a medium-sized tree, 12 to 24 in height, would cost around $8 to $12 at the present time. (I know I am going to hear protests about these quotations! There are many sizes, colours, types, prices. I am just trying to give a general idea.) . Add to these basic costs the fact that the grower has provided himself with specially-made bonsai tools, has had to buy copper wire for training, and special soil you can see that it mounts up.
In spite of this rather formidable approximation of costs, very good, sturdy little bonsai may be bought for around $30, increasing in price with age, thickness of trunk, and the essential beauty of the bonsai as a whole; not to mention the possible rarity of the species or variety.
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Bonsai produced in Japan or China, although not expensive there, acquire increased values by the time they are on the seller s shelves. Besides the shipping costs, they have to endure bare-root packing, and worst of all, fumigation, before they are allowed into either the United States or Canada. This treatment results in a varying degree of loss. Many trees perish. The casualties, therefore have to be paid for through the sale of the survivors, which is understandable. This explains the relative 'scarcity of imported bonsai.
General Care Watering
The most misunderstood requisite of bonsai care is that of watering as it is, of course, of plants in general. We are sometimes told that a particular dealer has recommended spraying a bonsai with water several times a day which is fine. But very often the buyer has received the impression that this is all the water needed, and fails to water the soil!
Do not try to work out a schedule for watering. Let the plant tell you when it needs water. This is done by testing the soil. As soon as it feels dry on the surface, dig your finger in lightly, and if there is any moisture within half an inch below the surface, do not water yet. When the dryness exists below that point, it is time to water. This may be done by removing the plant to a suitable location and pouring room-temperature water gently over the soil, taking care not to wash the earth away, until it runs out the bottom holes. Alternatively and this is the safest for beginners immerse the pot to just below the rim, until water shows on the surface, which should occur within ten minutes. Do not leave it any longer. I
961-3758
don t mean to say that twelve or even fifteen minutes will kill it, but long soaking can drown the roots and cause rotting. Do not water again until the above-mentioned test indicates the need. Overwatering causesjust as many disasters as underwatering. The pot must not stand in water, although setting it on a bed of gravel with water below the drainage holes, is excellent practice. Incidentally, to assist in checking water requirements, there are devices on the market which can be plunged into the soil and will give a reading perhaps more accurate than your finger!
If you have a humidifier in your home, watering needs will be reduced. Misting several times a day is beneficial, particularly in cold weather when the heating system is on much of the time and the air therefore very dry.
Fertilizing
Because of the constant leaching by these frequent waterings, bonsai need light fertilizing once a month during their growing season. The various general-purpose preparations on the market are all excellent. These consist of formulas of 15-20-15, 20-20-20, etc., with trace elements. Reduce the solution to at least one-half the strength recommended on the label. That is, if the mix suggests one tablespoon to a gallon of water, use half that, or even less. Always remember that we are not looking for lush growth. A bonsai is supposed to resemble a large tree in miniature, so, while supplying enough nutriment to keep it in perfect health, we must take care not to encourage long shoots and large leaves. If your tree is one which produces fruits, such as cotoneaster, pyracantha, apple, etc., change your for-
mula in August to one with little or no nitrogen. This will encourage flowering buds, rather than green growth. Once fruit has formed, return to regular formula. In the case of azaleas, it is recommended that all fertilizing cease when the first flower blooms. Do not resume fertilizing until flowering is over. This is said to encourage the blossoms to remain on the plant longer.
It is very important to refrain from fertilizing any plant when it is in a resting or dormant stage that is when it ceases to send out new growth. At this time the plant is not using much, ifany, food. Any fertilizer will just lie in the soil doing no good, and possibly doing harm. This period is most likely to occur during the dull winter months in the case of house plants, late summer with outdoor plants, but can occur any time, depending upon the zone in which the species originated. Start fertilizing again when new growth appears.
Above all, do not fertilize a weak or sickly tree. It may just be dormant. If the last fertilizer you gave it has brought no reaction, just wait awhile, giving careful attention to watering and light and checking for insects, of course. Mites are particularly insidious, as they are so hard to see, and produce a deathly pallor on your precious plant in a very short time. Repotting in fresh soil may be the solution for a tree requiring some kind of a boost. Then do not fertilize for three months.
Pruning
Most bonsai are pruned and trimmed in early spring, when new growth starts. It is important that pines and spruces be tip-pruned at just the right time and in just the right way. Chamaecyparis and junipers need constant tipping to preserve their shape. A purchased bonsai should not need any structural changes, what we call heavy pruning, unless a change of style is desired, or a main branch dies off.
Repotting
Young bonsai should be repotted every one or two years, but one with a trunk of one inch diameter, more or less, should not need repotting for several years, assuming that the grower has used a good soil mix and that careful fertilizing has been practised. The techniques of potting should be studied. 8 / November 1976
Indoor and Outdoor Bonsai
Most of the advice given in this article has referred to bonsai grown indoors, either because the owner lives in an apartment, orjust for the enjoyment of the tree during the winter months. Hardy trees, however, that is, trees which are native to this climate, must be kept outdoors, except for brief sojourns of two or three days for indoor enjoyment. These would include native pines and spruce, including the Dwarf Alberta Spruce, most chamaecyparis species and most junipers. Some junipers, however, will not endure our winters, and this should be inquired into at time of purchase. Of the broad-leaved trees, cotoneaster and pyracantha come in both hardy and tender forms, also boxwood. The Japanese Maple, both redand green-leaved forms, is perfectly hardy, and does not do well indoors except in cool-greenhouse conditions. They drop their leaves in winter anyway. All hardy trees can be kept on a balcony, and stored with special winter protection.
Japanese White Pine
A special word should be said about this lovely tree. To many people the" Japanese White Pine is THE bonsai. Our problem is that it is not quite hardy in Toronto, yet cannot be kept permanently under ordinary room conditions. It has been discovered, however, that it can be left outside until temperatures threaten to drop to 28° F., then brought indoors, usually around Christmas. Light frosts won t hurt it. It is the deep-freeze of the roots which does the harm. This treatment gives the tree a chance to go into the necessary state of dormancy which it requires. It can then be kept indoors until spring, in as cool a place as possible on a cold windowsill, a cool room or cupboard, then bring it into the living-room for brief periods. Should growth start early, by the time the new shoots have grown about an inch it must have its spring pruning.
This has been an attempt to give an honest description of purchased bonsai. We don t want to discourage anyone with a real love of bonsai from acquiring one; but we also shudder at the thought of the many lovely trees which have perished through lack of understanding their requirements. I have ap-
proached this problem from the gift point of view, and if the would-be giver is not certain that the gift will be in good hands, a present of a bonsai book might be more appropriate, then the recipient can take it from there. There are many excellent bonsai books now avilable. Some lovely ones have been written and published by the Japanese; other excellent ones have been written by Americans, and these are often easier to follow, because the conditions are similar to our own. Several books are of English origin, and are very informative. All of these books are available through the Civic Garden Centre bookshop, at a wide range of prices. If they don t have the book of your choice in stock, they will order it for you.
And remember that the Toronto Bonsai Society is always ready to answer inquiries, and help when possible with any bonsai problem. Just write or phone the Secretary Edith L. Kenzie at 495 Deloraine Ave., Toronto, M5M 2CI, phone 782-2403. Meetings are held at the Civic Garden Centre on the second Monday of each month at 8 p.m.
A Salute To Our First Life Member
On the occasion ofour great expansion, Trellis is proud to salute Betty Hamilton, the Civic Garden Centre s very first life member. From the Centre s earliest days Mrs. Hamilton had great faith in the Centre s potential as witnessed by her application, the sole one, at that time, for a Life Membership the year they were first offered. Mrs. Hamilton is an active member ofthe Garden Club of Toronto and has always, from its inception, taken a particular interest in the Civic Garden Centre.
F. Edna Gardner is on The Civic Garden Centre s Board of Directors.
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You are cordially invited to visit THE PLANT ROOM at 6373 Trafalgar Road (2.6 miles south of Highway 401) and see the finest collection in Canada of exotic plants growing under our units and in our modern greenhouses. FREE ADVISORY SERVICE available upon request.
Decorative Mulches
H. R. CRAWFORD & C. E. McNINCH
Department of Continuing Education
Perhaps you have seen a bed ofred geraniums where the flowers seem to stand out much more strikingly than those on other properties. The plants seem to be as healthy and as vigorous in both areas but on close inspection you find that in the first, the soil surface has been covered with a dark chocolate-colored peat moss, and that this peat moss enhances the appearance of the geraniums by acting as a contrasting background for the red flowers and green foliage.
Attractive mulches can add a new dimension to the landscape, providing both texture and color contrast to an area. While we usually think ofa mulch as a means of retaining moisture and keeping down weeds, a mulch can also be an attractive landscape feature. The use of decorative mulches in the home landscape can add interest and at the same time help to reduce cost, time and effort in garden maintenance.
There are other organic mulches which can be used. Cocoa bean shell also provides a rich brown color and a coarser texture. One problem, though, is that in constant moisture the shells can in time become rather grey and mouldy. The use of peat moss is well known. However, in periods of prolonged drought, the moss will become very dry and rain water falling on it will be absorbed by the mulch rather than released to the soil for plant benefit. There are several wood by-products on the market that are used as mulches. Pine bark and redwood bark are available in different sizes. The larger sizes provide coarse texture, and the smaller sizes give finer texture, but all are heavier appearing than either cocoa bean shell or peat moss.
In addition to the organic mulches, we can of course use many varied types ofstone and masonry products for mulches. Water washed stones and pebbles can create very attractive texture effects.
In large areas, smooth rounded stones, perhaps four or five inches in diameter, can be considered. They are placed closely together and levelled carefully.
When installing stone- and masonrytype mulches, it is a good plan to first place a polyethylene sheet on the surface, add about five centimeters ofsand, and then place the stone. This prevents weeds from becoming established in the mulch. The plastic must have holes punched in it to allow for water drainage. Do not, however, cover areas of trees or shrubs with plastic as this would prevent the necessary exchange ofgases to the roots. In selecting your mulch, think also of the possibilities in colored marble, granite and quarry chips, of crushed tile or brick for warm earth colours.
Mulches are not suited to bank areas as they will be eroded away quickly. This is especially so with some of the organic mulches. Likewise, wind is a problem with very light mulches such as peat moss, so try to select a heavier material for windy areas.
Loose aggregate mulches placed around trees or used on flower and shrubbery areas tend to mix with the grass and in some instances give the appearance of neglect. Edging materials such as brick, stone, or concrete placed flush with the turf surface and to delineate the bed areas, will confine the aggregate particles. These edges become mowing strips and reduce time for hand edging and the possibility ofmechanical injury to the tree trunks, shrubs and flowering plants.
The Early Beginnings of the Centre
F. Edna Gardner
The Civic Garden Centre really began by chance. But an ancient philosopher, Menander, once said, Chance contrives better than we ourselves. On a holiday I made a chance digression to an institution listed in my guide book as The Garden Centre of Greater Cleveland . The idea embodied in it entranced me, and I came home wondering by what means it could be adapted to the needs of Toronto. The main idea was that of the little red schoolhouse, accommodating those who were beginning elementary learning in the why and wherefore ofgrowing things as well as those who had a great deal of knowledge and who enjoyed both enlarging their skills and sharing their information with others.
I had told T. W. Thompson about my -dream, speculating about the possibility of using, for this purpose, the old house in the recently acquired Edwards Gardens. Eventually he offered me the chance to make a proposition for a Garden Centre . The next step was to persuade the Garden Club of Toronto that the idea was a good one. At first there were many doubters, but, finally, the Club agreed to give $2000 seed money to the project. So the Civic Garden Centre began with an empty building and $2000.
The members of the Garden Club have since nurtured their seed with grants of over $100,000 and endless labour. A good deal ofscrounging and ingenuity played a large part in the Centre s early days. As nominal chairman of the Board, I assumed many roles, including that of mice catcher! It was more than four years before we had any paid staff.
There were hilarious predicaments and there was some tragedy, for, just when the Centre was really beginning to get on its feet, the building was the victim of a fire so devastating that it could not be rehabilitated. But by this time the Civic Garden Centre had made an impact on the community ofmetropoli-
tan Toronto, and it was here to stay.
Perhaps it is Sebastian Chamfort s (1741) concept of chance that best applies now: Chance is a nickname for providence . What at first seemed to be an insurmountable disaster turned into a blessing which brought us a new building. Now, with many ups and downs, the Centre has outgrown that new accommodation and we have moved into yet another new building. We have new hopes and expectations ahead of us.
With the advent of the building extension, The Garden Club of Toronto has committed the proceeds from the 1976 Flower and Garden Show to the Civic Garden Centre s support.
The new building will reduce the strictures on our groups and activities, but the increased responsibilities to metro residents will be tremendous. In effect, the Civic Garden Centre provides the same sort of services and programs to metropolitan Toronto that are provided to Hamilton and Burlington by the Royal Botanical Garden. Financial support for the Royal Botanical Garden s services comes from an annual mill rate in the realty taxes.
There are, in metropolitan Toronto, 533,000 individual habitations where we can assist citizens to become conscious of how to improve their surroundings and increase their pleasure in growing things. As well, in metro, there are 192,000 apartment units. As one views the desert balconies of our highrise habitants, it is obvious that an understanding of the possibilities of their little bit of outdoors can make a more attractive city and provide a new interest for people who have little opportunity for home hobbies. The Highrise Garden group, recently organized by the Civic Garden Centre, in one winter, achieved a membership of200 families. -
Today, the Civic Garden Centre celebrates with joy and enthusiasm the opportunity being created to continue to grow and to serve the metro community, and we sincerely thank those who are making it possible.
Jack Blair
A\l Garden Centre members were grieved to learn of the death of one of our most respected and admired members, Jack Blair, on August 19, 1976 at the age of 70.
Jack, a native ofTrenton, Ontario, firstjoined the Civic Garden Centre in 1965 and later becamea life member. He had for many years served on the Centre s Board of Directors, and was for a good number of those years, our Treasurer.
He was also an active member, and office holder, in both the Canadian Rose Society and the Chrysanthemum Society. He was involved as well in the Men s Garden Club and provided great encouragement to the Junior Garden Club.
Most people will remember Jack for his quiet, forceful ways. Ifthere was ajob to be done, Jack was there to offer his help. Most ofall, Jack will be appreciatively remembered for all the time he gave as a volunteer worker in theCentre s Gift Shop. On any Friday, Saturday and Sunday for the past three or four years, you would have seen Jack behind the counter along with his wife, Flo, who gave her time to the library. People will also remember Jack by the mice and owls he made for the shop. Some 15,000 of these have been his donation to the Centre to help raise funds.
A quiet man, but sometimes a tiger of a man when he wanted to put a point across, Jack always had the good of someone or something in mind. Above everything, he was an honest man, a very kind man and a true gentleman. Those of us at the Centre will miss him greatly.
He is survived by his wife, Flo, his daughter, Joan, and his sons, John and Daniel, and grandchildren.
A special memorial fund to honour Jack Blair has been established by the Civic Garden Centre s Board of Directors. Although the project to which the fund will be devoted has not yet been decided, it will be one of perpetual commemoration.
Best Wishes to the CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE
Thank you for selecting our firm as general contractor. We are proud to have been a part in the construction of this unique building.
We are pleased to have been associated with the CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE Expansion Program
M.S. YOLLES & PARTNERS
CONSULTING STRUCTURAL ENGINEERS
RYBKA SMITH & GINSLER CONSULTING MECHANICAL & ELECTRICAL ENGINEERS
Reprinted from The Garden by permission of the Royal Horticultural Society
O1e does not normally think of any individual or organization practising the art of gardening on a world-wide scale, but this is the task which faces the horticultural staff of the Commonwealth War Graves Commission. Their purpose is to honour the dead of the two World Wars and bring comfort to the bereaved, but the work has in the process become a window through which the people of more than 100 countries catch a glimpse ofthe horticultural skill of the British Isles. The work is undertaken on behalf of the governments of the Commonwealth and South Africa. Whenever substantial numbers of men from these countries are buried we try, so far as the climate permits, to grow * plants typical of their homelands.
Canada recalls the native maples and dogwoods and in 1944 and again in 1950 the Ontario Horticultural Association donated to the Commission batches of young saplings of Acer saccharinum, A. rubrum and A. saccharum to be planted in all the Canadian war cemeteries in England, France, Belgium and Holland. Without exception the silver maple (A. saccharinum) flourished and made good trees, the red maple (4. rubrum) also produced many good trees with very good autumn colouring but the sugar maple (4. saccharum) were disappointing and seemed ill-attuned to the climate as if they required greater extremes of summer and winter temperatures. Among the dogwoods, Cornus alba, C. florida and C. florida rubra flourish well in the Canadian cemeteries in Holland while Amelanchier canadensis and Rhus typhina are reliable everywhere in the north European cemeteries.
These are not cemeteries in the accepted sense ofthe word but rather gardens in which one can experience almost remarkable feeling of tranquility and beauty. Although many ofthe cemeteries have been made on the former
battlefields of northern Europe, the Commission s gardeners have also been faced with producing green and peaceful gardens in countries as diverse as Norway, Poland, Tunisia, Tanzania, Iraq, Burma, Japan and New Guinea; in fact, through more than a 100 countries.
How does the Commission cope with the task of growing plants under such extraordinarily diverse conditions? First of all the Commission is fortunate in having a long-serving staff of professional horticulturists mostly trained in the great botanic gardens of Kew or Edinburgh or in the Royal Horticultural Society s garden at Wisley. But the secret of success does not lie solely in the training, experience and dedication to their work of the Commission s horticulturalists; it is the gardeners, head gardeners and superintendents who constitute the other vital part of equation. In northern Europe these were all orginally expatriate ex-service men who came out and settled in France and Belgium. Over the years the attachment that these men developed for their work became something unique and most difficult to find today.
After the Second World War, in spite of intensive recruiting drives and many of the sons of the original gardeners taking over from their fathers, the Commission was never able to keep its ranks filled with gardeners from England. After a time it became the policy to employ French, Belgian, Dutch and German gardeners so that the continentals are now in the majority. Elsewhere than in northern Europe and gardeners may be any of a hundred nationalities. They too take immense pride in their work.
Mechanization and the sensible use ofchemical aids are, of course, essential to the task. Every week during the growing season over 300 miles of grass verges are machine-trimmed. Similarly all turf is lifted mechanically, and all
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leaves are, wherever possible, swept me. chanically; hedges are trimmed mechanically and all soil is cultivated by rotovators. As a result the individual craftsman has more time for the highly skilled tasks such as pruning, propagation and tree surgery.
Mechanization and the use of control chemicals are fairly world-wide nowadays, but the work of the Commission has a unique aspect the cultivation of a wide range ofplants, including different grass species and strains under many different conditions.
Holten Canadian War Cemetery, Holland
This six-acre terraced cemetery lies on sandy acid soil in slightly elevated pine forest country east ofDeventer and nearthe German border. In summer the weather is much like southern England but the winters are considerably sharper. The turf is a fine Festuca Agrostis mixture. Around three sides ofthe cemetery a deep band of hardy hybrid rhododendrons and a light silver birch tree canopy have been planted; the fourth side is open to the distant view. As is normal practice in northern Europe and borders along the rows of headstones are planted with floribunda roses and attractive low growing her-
baceous plants. Trees planted include a fine avenue of silver limes (7ilia tomentosa) and groups of tall bird cherries (Prunus padus) the latter grow wild in plenty in this part of Holland.
Undoubtedly the most impressive and unusual feature is the large heather garden which occupies the vacant area between the first terrace and the road. The planting here, which is over two acres in extent, is throughout the year, never lacking in interest and in the few dead months of winter before the early heathers bloom the rich bronze and gold foliage varieties of Calluna vulgaris light up the scene.
Minturno War Cemetery, Italy
This cemetery lies north of Cassino. As one passes between tall entrance columns surmounted by carvings of the British lion and unicorn, one s eye is straightaway caught by the magnificent avenue of stone pines bestriding the long approach to the main part of the cemetery. One would hardly suspect that these umbrella pines are 30 years old. Once we had an inner avenue ofalternating red and white oleanders but these were recently removed, for this fine avenue brooks no petty competition.
The planting of the borders in the
Upper Canada House
Best Wishes
IRWIN OULLAHAN
Commercial Stationery
CONGRATULATIONS TO THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE on the opening of their new Horticultural Education Centre.
grave plots is much as in northern Europe. Floribunda roses are still the main plants and under the regime of regular overhead irrigation they give a very good account ofthemselves. The border plants vary a little from those used in northern Europe though many remain the same. Among newcomers are Penstemon heterophyllus Blue Gem, Verbena pulchella, Caprobrotus edule, Mesembryanthemum crassifolium, Oxalis rubra and Globularia vulgaris. In the shrub borders one finds Abelia chinensis, Caesalpinia gilliesii, a most decorative and indispensible plant for the Mediterranean area, Cassia corymbosa and Feijoa sellowiana, both from South America, Lagerstroemia indica and the New Zealand flax, Phormicum colensoi.
The cemetery is surrounded by an exceptionally well grown hedge of Pyracantha angustifolia, clipped four or five times a year to a tight form which, surprisingly, berries very well.
Within the cemetery, apart from the screen of Lombardy poplars, the formal avenues and lines of trees which give form to the layout are all of Cercis siliquastrutrum (Judas tree) or Magnolia grandflora.
Redoubt Cemetery, Gallipoli, Turkey
This cemetery on Cape Helles at the eastern end of the Mediterranean lies on high ground facing the enterance to the Dardanelles. Down the centre runs a widely spaced avenue of fine old Cupressus sempervirems and, in between, great spreading shrubs of Arbutus unedo and even more extensive plantings of A. andrachne make a glorious sight. Both species grow all over the peninsula as constituents of the maquis-type vegetation.
The cemetery is covered by a turf of mainly indigenous grasses which looks well in the spring and autumn, though it browns off through the hot summer months. Unfortunately the water from the shallow well is only sufficient to keep the plants alive. A local form of Erica mediterranea has also been planted to good effect. Conspicuous near the entrance is a solitary specimen of an English oak, grown from an acorn planted in 1922 by the father ofa young officer buried in this cemetery.
Perhaps one of the most fascinating of all the local plants in the cemetery is
a dwarf iris, I attica which grows ubiquitously on the old fixed dunes adjoining Suvla Bay. It occurs in three shades yellow, purple and an indeterminate slatey blue and the sight of these colonies fills one with exhilaration. In spring wild anemones (4. coronaria) bloom in many of the cemeteries and the turfis left uncut until they have seeded.
Yokohama British Commonwealth War Cemetery, Japan
This cemetery, just outside Yokohama, is in reality a Memorial Park containing within its 19 acres five separate Commonwealth cemeteries which by careful landscaping, have been made part of a most interesting overall design. The area retains its natural contours with a small central valley and wooded slopes around the sides. The climate is a curious one with very hot summers and cold or even occasionally freezing winters, when temperatures ranged as low as 7°C. Fortunately such low temperatures do not occur every year, but when they do some damage is caused to - the eucalptus trees and other exotics, albeit the temporary disfiguring effect SOOn passes.
One is impressed by how well wooded the slopes are and by the dips and dells between the individual cemetery areas. Among the numerous species involved, the following predominate: Pinus thunbergii, Prunes yedoensis, Castanopsis cuspidata, Pasania edulis, Acerpalmatum, Tuercus acuta and various eucalptus species. Small numbers, however, of other interesting plants such a Zelkova serrata, Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Celtis sinensis, Malus sieboldii can be found ifone looks more closely.
The grasses used are Zoysia tenuifolia, z. japonica or the hybrid between the two. In the borders, floribunda roses and Kurume azaleas are planted alternately between the memorial tablets with marigolds for colour at seasons when otherwise it would be lacking.
The effect of the larger trees is supplemented by many fine shrubs and small trees. At the very start of the season the Japanese apricots, Prunus mume, are exquisite harbingers of spring, followed later by drifts of the continued on page 20
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Our compliments and congratulations to the members of the Civic Garden Centre for their outstanding achievements in pro- @ moting Horticultural Education. e@
TO OUR MANY FRIENDS AT THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR MAGNIFICENT ACCOMPLISHMENT d
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lovely Yoshino cherry, Prunus yedoensis, set off to perfection against the evergreen background of Pinus thunbergii, by foliage varieties of Acer palmatum, mass plantings of spectacular Magnolia denudata.
W. W. F. Harding, horticultural director of the Commonwealth War Graves Commission, describes how British gardening skills have been used in over 100 countries to make war cemeteries into beautiful gardens.
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STEP4: SEPT. OCT. /NOV
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