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This Month s Articles
Caladiums Outdoors /5
Award Winning Flowers /9
House Plants of the Month/13
Raising Ferns from Spores/15
Coming Events of Interest/22
The Front Cover A Host of Daffodils
Publication Committee for Trellis
Lawrence C. Sherk (Chairman), Audrey Allman, Gordon Brackett (Executive Director), Jerry Maccabe, Gilbert Milne, Flavia Redelmeier.
Editor Sid Morris
Graphics and Printing Drewmark Graphics, Toronto
General Information
Trellis is published in the months ofJanuary, April, May, June, September and November and distributed on or about the 15th of the month previous by the Civic Garden Centre, 777 Lawrence Avenue East, Don Mills, Ontario M3C 1P2. The Centre is located in Edwards Gardens, at Leslie Street and Lawrence Avenue East, the geographical centre of Metropolitan Toronto. It is a non-profit gardening and floral arts information organization with open membership. Subscriptions to Trellis are only available through Centre membership ($10 per year). Opinions expressed within do not necessarily reflect those of the Centre. This is Volume 4, Number 2.
All the benefits of THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE for only $10 a year!
Here in the heart of the beautiful Edwards Gardens at 777 Lawrence Avenue East, is Metropolitan Toronto s very own special CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE with its new $1,300,000 addition all for your gardening enjoyment.
Right at your fingertips all the ideas, facts and inspiration you need to garden gloriously the year round, whether you live in a highrise apartment or your own private back forty .
As a CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE member you can visit the Horticultural Library and take advantage of the free borrowing privileges from more than 3,000 timely books on just about every phase of gardening you can imagine.
You will enjoy shopping in the novel GARDEN SHOP and BOOK SHOP, and save 10% on purchases over $2.00 thanks to your membership card.

You will also be able to enroll in members only classes in many special areas of Horticulture and Flower Arranging as well as securing special members discounts on various public lectures and demonstrations.
You will also enjoy receiving the six-issues-per-year of TRELLIS Magazine mailed to your home.
All for only $10 a year? Right! How can it be done?
Operating costs are defrayed by membership fees, support by civicminded organizations and such revenues secured from our shops, the latter being manned largely by volunteers. Let s get together. We'll both enjoy it.
FOR FURTHER DETAILS PHONE THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE 445-1552

Caladiums outdoors
Lois Wilson
Shady gardens, after the profuse flowering of spring is past, can be pretty dreary. But not if you grow caladiums. These natives oftropical America are the most dramatic leafy plants that you could possible imagine, and they will grow well only in shade.
They have no flowers to write home about, but big, beautiful leaves that seem so fragile they might have been woven of cobwebs and so thin a dappling sunbeam barely pauses on its swift path through them. Yet they stand up under wind and summer storm sur_prisingly well and, with proper care, they will grow more and more luxuriantly as the weather gets warmer.
In most varieties the leaves are the shape of an elephant s ear, and from 16-20 cm. (6-8 in.) across at their widest, tapering to a point at the bottom. More rare, and less popular are the few varieties of caladium with arrow and lance shaped leaves.
The form of the plant is fascinating. The leaves face out, and are set so that you get a full view of their whole pattern of brilliant veinings and ribs outlined against the thin membrane of the leaf. The colours flush and shade from almost transparent white through pinks and reds, pea, chartreuse and emerald green.
Since even a fern seems sturdy by comparison, caladiums, by their very contrast, can look well in front of many other plants in the garden. The curving branches of mock orange (philadelphus) make an
arching frame of green for a group of the pink Miss Chicago, and a carpet of shiny dark green vinca makes a low mat on the ground in front. For a space under high shade trees where light filters through from way up above, alow, undulating planting of variegated green and white hostas and the gorgeous deep bronzy-red caladium Dr. T. L. Meade would make a low, rolling sea of bright colour and fascinating leaf form.
For gardeners who must be away from their gardens all day, a white and green garden of white, sweetscented nicotine, frilly sweet alyssum and bold plantings of the snow white caladium Candidum would be the most exciting kind of garden, especially in the moonlight.
Small, hidden garden floodlights might make the picture more dramatic by being set to shine through the caladiums from behind, letting the outside of the light spill over onto the other plants around them.
Northerly exposed beds and window boxes at the front of houses could well be planted with caladiums too, with great effect. Lord Derby, a lovely rose pink with very finely traced green veining would be good for such a place. If you are using window boxes, you will probably like caladiums best if they have nothing else planted with them, for they would up-stage any other plant you might use.
For all these plantings we have suggested, it is best to keep your caladiums in their pots, and then sink them, pot and all, in the ground
wherever you want them to grow. Reasons for such a system are:
(1) you can better control the rich feeding and constant moisture that caladiums need by confining them in a pot;
(2) you can turn them if the light drawsthemawayfromyourview;
(3) you can growthem to agoodsize in pots in the house-before the sure end of frost lets you plant them out in the garden;
(4) it is easy to lift them and repot them in richer soil in a larger pot in mid-season if they outgrow the first one.
Although they are easy to grow, caladiums simply must have certain things to flourish. They must never dry out, nor wilt, or they will go brown and be checked beyond all hope of luxuriant growth again. So, besides careful and constant watering they are best planted in shade, or semi-shade. They must have a rich, friable soil to begin with, and be regularly fed weekly with liquid manure, or a high-concentrate commercial fertilizer or, better still, both, ifthey are to have many leaves, big leaves and brightlycoloured leaves. The tubers must never be chilled. For storing over winter for instance, they should be where the temperature will not drop below 16°C (60°F).
Plants can be bought from florists or greenhousemen, or you can buy the tubers and grow them yourself. Start them about eight weeks before you can hope to plant them out in warm, frost-free weather. Most gardeners who grow their own start them in flats of damp peat moss in a temperature of 21-26°C (70°-80°F), with a pane of glass over the top to keep them moist. The tubers are covered to a depth of 5-8 cm. (2 or 3in.). When a good root system has developed, they are lifted carefully and potted in a mixture of 1/3 gar-
den soil, 1/3 moist peat, 1/3 sharp sand. After the leaves begin to appear, feed regularly and according to the directions for whichever fertilizer you choose to use. Keep this up all summer. In dry, hot weather keep the soil in the pots constantly moist, and if you can, sprinkle or top-spray the leaves two or three times a day with warm water. If you haven t high humidity, it s not hard to simulate it with careful watering and spraying and careful placement to keep the plants out of hot, sunny locations.
Reduce watering at the end of August, and bring in the pots before frost. Take the tubers out of the pots, let them dry, clean them and store in polythene bags at not less than 16°C (60°F) until next spring. If you want to, you can try to baby your caladiums along to produce gay leaves for your house for the fall, but this is usually not worth the effort. Growth is sparse, and the aphids seem to fly in from every: where to feast on your caladiums.
Much better to store them and enjoy them again next summer.

Varieties of Caladiums available at:
C.A. Cruickshank, The Garden Guild, 1015 Mt. Pleasant Rd., Toronto M4P 2M1 has the only good list of caladiums in Canada.
BUCK
Small bushy type, bright red centre, wide bronze border.
CANDIDUM
Snow white leafwith dark green ribs. Showy, and most popular of all Caladiums.
CAROLYN WHARTON
Transparent centre, crimson veins. Very showy variety.
DR. GROOVER
A good pink, speckled dark green. Low growing and a good leafer. Very colorful. Highly recommended.
DR. T.L. MEADE
Deep bronzy-red with green lines.
FANNIE MUNSON
Deep carmine pink, large transparent leaf, scarlet ribs. Extra fine.
FESTIVIA
White and gray background, with green veins and very fine netted green lines. blushed red all over with big splotches of midnight red. An outstanding variety.
LORD DERBY
An old favourite. Transparent rose, dark green ribs, narrow green edge, low growing, lots of leaves.
MISS CHICAGO
A very popular quick, lowgrowing and colorful variety. Pink centre with darker pink ribs and mottled green edges.
MRS. ARNO NEHRLING
Deep green splashed with scarlet midribs. Makes a most attractive pot plant.
PINK BEAUTY
Low growing salmon-pink, marbled light green, particularly fine for pots.
ROSEBUD
Lovely pink, with green centre. A most attractive variety.

Notice of Annual Meeting
Please take notice that an Annual Meeting of the members of the Civic Garden Centre will be held at 8:00 p.m. on April 20, 1977, at the Civic Garden Centre, 777 Lawrence Avenue East, Don Mills, Ontario for the purpose of: 1) Considering and approving the annual accounts of the Centre (which are available for inspection at the Centre s office); 2) The election of Directors; 3) The appointment of an auditor; and 4) Such other business as may come before the meeting.
By Order of the Board of Directors Mrs. J. W. Clarke, Executive Secretary
Caladium (Caladium hortulanum) leaf

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Award winning flowers

Seed andplants offour new garden andplants, or order from 1977 seed flowers that scored best in compe- catalogs. Contact yourgarden titive trials across the USA and supply dealer early so he will be Canada will be availableforspring sure to have seeds andplants of 1977plantings. Lookfor them in these winners atplanting time. retail store displays ofseedpackets
Top to bottom: Marigold Primrose Lady, Geranium Showgirl, Marigold Yellow Galore, Petunia Blushing Maid.

Marigold Primrose Lady Hybrid
A distinctive new carnationflowered creamy-primroseyellow colour in the First Lady class with 20-inch plant height and blossoms up to 3%-inch diameter. Shows good weather tolerance; the plants resist breaking apart in blustery weather when the blossoms and foliage are heavy with rain. Primrose Lady displays well in large beds because of its agreeable colour and heavy flowering. Stout-stemmed and bushy; needs no staking.
Outdoors, plants bloom in July, well ahead of most hybrids in the erect, large-flowered class; blooming Primrose Lady with blue, lavender, orchid or mahogany-coloured flowering plants to set off its delicate light yellow flowers.
Try Primrose Lady for indoo pot plants; for the mid-March bloom sow seeds in early November and give 60° night temperatures. When winter-planted, Primrose Lady will flower at about 6-inch height with the large blossoms in striking contrast to the squatty plants.
Marigold Yellow Galore Hybrid
Yellow Galore adds a sparkling clear yellow to the GALORE class of hedge-type marigolds. When planted en masse, the incredible effect of buttery colour accented by lush green leaves distinguishes Yellow Galore for low background plantings-or for use in formal landscaping and containers.
Mature plants are characterized by masses of41-inch double flowers on stocky 14- to 18-inch plants which bloom in only 70-80 days (60-70 days under long night conditions). Peak bloom occurs about four weeks after the first flower appears and lasts for over a month. Because ofthe self-cleaning nature of this vigorous hybrid, the plants are constantly covered with solid mass of fresh blooms.
Unlike some varieties, Yellow Galore will not burn out before the end of the season but
Marigold Primrose Lady Hybrid, Bronze Medal 1977
Marigold Yellow Galore Hybrid, Bronze Medal 1977

will continue to grow and bloom vigorously until killed by frost. As aresult ofhybrid vigor, tight blooms and dense foliage, Yellow Galore resists certain disease-bearing insects.
Petunia Blushing Maid Hybrid
A double-flowered petuniawith a soft pink colour, BlushingMaid adds an entirely new colour and ornate flower configurationto the double-flowered Grandiflora petunias. Layers ofmoderately fringed petals unfold from the plump crinkledbuds to form blossoms of3 to 3;-inch diameter. The soft salmon pink flower colour especially luminous in the indirect light of early morning or dusk blends amicably with many other annual flowers and with evergreen backgrounds. Branching andflowering begins whiletheplants are quitesmall and continues all summer. Plants grow to about 10 inches in height and 16 inches in spread at maturity, somewhat smaller than standardpetuniavarieties.
Geranium Showgirl Hybrid
Showgirl is one ofthe new generation of geraniums that grow quickly and easily from seeds. More compact and early blooming than other seed-grown rose pink geraniums, Showgirl flowers 2 to 3 weeks earlier than competitive varieties on plants about 6 inches shorter. The plants branch heavily from the baseto produce dense growth and numerous ball-like flower heads. Bright rose pink flowers contrast tastefully withbright green leaves.
Hybridvigor in Showgirl sustains colour right through the summer. While the blossoms are not quite as large as tall geraniums grown for cut flowers, the early, heavy, and prolonged flower production guarantees more colour per square foot. Plants continue growing as they blossom, reaching about 18 inches at maturity and retaining a neat, controlledappearance. Thevivid colour displays particularly well with blue or white flowers.
Petunia Blushing Maid Hybrid, Bronze Medal 1977
Geranium Showgirl Hybrid, Bronze Medal 1977
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House plants of the month

"Red Hot Cottail or Chemille plant (Acalypha hispida)
A novelty plant for greenhouse cultivation is a conversation piece in any indoor garden. The showy pendant inflorescences look like longdrooping tails . . . hence the name Red Hot Cattail . Foliage is bright green. A. hispida is the variety most popular in the greenhouse with red or purplish tails wagging from leaf axils. Several other species having interesting, coloured foliage can occasionally be found listed in plant catalogues. A. hispida likes a warm greenhouse 19°C (65°F), although mature plants can be carried over the winter at a moderate temperature of 13°C (55°F).
Red Hot Cattail is propagated by cuttings of half-matured growth that root readily any time of the year. Several years are required, however, to produce large specimens
from cuttings so it is best to buy small plants. Plants do well in straight peatmoss and loam mixed with half-and-half, but be sure that the soil drains well. If loam is of a clayey nature, add some sharp sand. Pot firmly. Plants started in spring should be ready for 5 pots by July. Pinching the soft tips ofthe foliage will be necessary to produce branching. Keep on the dry side during autumn and winter and provide as much sun as possible. Give them plenty ofwater during spring and summer and shade through the brightest weather of these seasons. About the only serious pests are red spider and mealy bug, which can be controlled.
Staghorn fern (Platycerium sp.)
Want to try something a little different in the foliage line? The striking staghorn fern (Platycerium sp.) is an outstanding candidate. It will
bea conversation piece in a hanging container and will thrive in the humidity of your greenhouse or bathroom ifthere is sufficient light. An odd thing about it is that it has, according to reports, withstood temperatures down to 4°C, (27°F) yet it thrives outdoors in semitropical climates. Indoors it appreciates a tropical temperature for good growth and you can provide added humidity by syringing the foliage frequently.
You can grow the fern in sphagnum moss in a wire basket or, ifyou like, just attach it to any moistureretaining wood. The shield-like leaves cling tightly to the support and the large upright leaves and those that hang downwards are divided into long tapering fingers.
Make sure your staghorn fern has good drainage and feed it lightly every week with a soluble fertilizer so good leaf growth will be produced. Ifyou place a handful of bonemeal behind the two clinging leaves which form the basal shield this nourishment will be available to the plant slowly over along period.
You can propagate additional plants by detaching the small basal plants and planting them in pans ofsifted soil compost.
CENTRE PLANS SPECIAL COURSE
A SIX WEEK COURSE IN PHOTOGRAPHY WILL BE PRESENTED AT THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE by JOHN AND JOAN POWELL COMMENCING ON TUESDAY, MAY 10th, 1977 AT 8.00 p.m. TITLED THE JOY OF PHOTOGRAPHING OUR NATURAL WORLD .
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CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE
SPRING AT THE CENTRE
a major FUND RAISING EVENT supported by Groups and Societies who meet at the Centre...
PROCEEDS in aid of Centre programs; donations of plant material, cuttings, seeds or other useful gardening items i.e.; pots, vases, tools, etc. are solicited from members May 14 Saturday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

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Raising ferns from spores
You should have on hand some fresh paper or envelopes. Place the frond or leaflet inside and seal securely so that no spores can sneak out, and write something. If you don t know the name, make a sketch and write a brief description, to be investigated later. If you are in a situation where you may not take a frond, try to shake some of the spores out without damaging the plant. Try to keep your hands and materials clear of contamination, as described in the section about sowing, although this is difficult when in the field .
University greenhouses usually have fern specimens, and also large dried collections in their herbariums. | have seen fern spores floating out in clouds as a plant-press was being lifted from its locker. Ifyou can contact someone in the botany department, they will likely be glad to supply any reasonable request.
Spores should be as fresh as possible for prompt and high germination. Some lose their viability after a two weeks, but most can be successfully germinated up to two years after ripening.
Not many seedsmen carry fern spores, but you will find listings occasionally; and if you are keen enough about some particular fern, you could run a tiny advertisement in any of the garden magazines.
There are several fern societies on this continent, and also some in Europe. I believe in all cases they have a spore exchange available to members, with or without a small

fee to cover expenses. The American Fern Society is a venerable and highly respected organization, which issues a technical quarterly, also an informative and entertaining newsletter for the amateurs. The society maintains a spore exchange. Annual dues $5.00: address c/o Dr. Terry W. Lucansky, Dept. of Botany, University of Florida, Gainesville, Florida 32601. The Los Angeles International Fern Society is a very active organization, and their annual dues of $5.50 include a monthly lesson sheet and bulletin, with access to meetings for those within range. They announce a selection of fern spores available each month. Address: 2423 Burritt Ave., Redondo Beach, California 90278.
Varieties:
Out of hundreds of kinds of ferns it is difficult to select suitable ones for average house conditions, but here are a few. Adiantum hispidulum Rosy Maidenhair.
Asplenium bulbiferum Mother Fern.
Asplenium nidus Bird s-nest Fern.
Asplenium Platyneuron Ebony Spleenwort (Native)
Asplenium trichomanes Maidenhair Spleenwort (Native)
Blechnum occidentale Hemmock
Fern
Coniogrammejaponica Bamboo
Fern
Cyrtomium falcatum Holly Fern
Edith Kenzie
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Davallia canariensis Canary davallia (creeper) ( footed ferns)
Davallia fejeensis Fiji davallia (creeper)
Davallia mariesii (creeper)
Davallia trichomanoides
Squirrel s-foot (creeper)
Diplazium lanceum
Doodia media Hacksaw Fern
Doryopteris pedata var. palmata (or any)
Hemionitis arifolia, or H. Palmata
Strawberry Fern
Humata tyermannii Bear s-foot
Fern (creeper)
Lygodium japonicum dJapanese
Climbing Fern
Pellaea falcata Australian Cliff Brake
Pellaea rotundifolia Button Fern
Pellaea viridis Green Cliff Brake
Polypodium aureum Rabbit s-foot
Fern (Golden Polypody)
Polypodium australe
-Polypodium formosanum

Polystichum tsus-simense
Tsusima Holly Fern
Pteris argyraca Silver Brake
Pteris cretica Cretan Brake
Pteris ensiformis var. Victoriae
Victorian Brake
Pteris quadriaurita Ribbon Fern
Pteris tremula Australian Brake (Many others)
Scyphularia pentaphylla Davallia pentaphylla
The above is a brieflist from the many available of small and medium-sized ferns that are not too difficult to manage. Any of our native ferns can be readily raised for garden use. They can also be grown indoors, but many ofthem are rather large, and most are not evergreen, dying back in autumn. The rock ferns aspleniums, pellaeas, polypodies are more satisfactory indoors than the woods ferns.
Adiantum raddianum Pacific Maid
Platycerium bifurcatum
Nephrolepis exaltata bostoniensis
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Obtaining Spores
Spores may be obtained by collecting them in the wild or, with suitable restraint, from public gardens; by begging from botanical gardens, conservatories, private collections; by purchasing them from commercial seedsmen; university botany departments; or by joining a fern society. If collecting spores from native plants, consider what you may be doing to the environment and take just one fruiting frond, or even a part of a frond, as a tiny piece may contain thousands of spores. In private domains, you will of course observe the usual courtesy of asking permission, which is usually freely given. It is not always necessary to take a piece of the fern just holding a paper under the frond and shaking it, may give . you all the material you will need. Ifyou are not familiar with the way ferns grow, notice that some fronds have spore-bearing fruitdots on the underside, and others have not. The unadorned ones are sterile fronds, the fruiting ones are the fertile fronds, and in some species the two types of fronds are distinctly different in form. These little membraneous attachments are called sori (singular sorus) and they are filled with tiny capsules of spores known commonly as spore-cases, or sporangia (singular sporangium). If the sori are light green, they are not ripe, and they will not ripen if cut. When the spores are ready to disperse, the fruitdots turn brown and you can see where the dark spores are emerging, or about to emerge. It is at this stage that the specimen should be taken. Most ferns have brown or black spores, but the osmundas have green spores, and a few species have yellow ones. If the sporangia appear fuzzy-brown and no dark spores are to be seen, you
have arrived too late the spores have been shed.
Literature
Many excellent books for the fern lover are available in libraries and book stores (particularly those at the Civic Garden Centre, naturally!), among them: A Field Guide to the Ferns, by Boughton Cobb, a Peterson s Guide; A Fern Guide, by Dr. Edgar Wherry, in the Audubon Field Guide Series; Ferns to Know and Grow, by F. Gordon Foster; A fern Growers Manual, by Barbara Joe Hoshizaki. This last is a large, beautifully illustrated book, invaluable as a reference for anyone growing indoor ferns, especially from spores. In addition to the modern texts, there are some lovely old volumes from the last century, obtainable probably only in private collections, reference departments or in second-hand book stores, with flowing, old-fashioned language, and charming illustrations.
Raising ferns has been, I believe, the most rewarding growing experience | have had in many years of happy gardening, both indoors and out. ['hope others will try it.
Watering Mature Ferns
Keep them moist, but not too moist. Let them dry slightly, but not too dry. Where have you heard that before? It is the old story, and it seems that it is only by developing a sensitivity to their growth that you can learn their needs. There has been some criticism of spraying house-plants of late, but as far as | can see, and it is the same with my successful fern-growing friends, frequent spraying up to three or four times a day using a fine spray, helps to keep them in good condition while the heat is on during our winter months. The same would apply in dry summer weather.
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Insulate with AirCap®
Realize a 30% fuel saving in your greenhouse when AirCap® is applied to glass or fibre-glass panels.

Here's a very neat and highly efficient system of watering pot plants and one which will be welcomed especially by those who grow many plants indoors. It uses the capillary system of watering which keeps a fibre mat continuously damp. Plants placed on the mat are kept automatically watered, The Caretaker provides the essential humidity where plants are grown in the home in the dry winter atmosphere. 4
Rolls of capillary mat can be purchased for extensive layouts. Commercial growers have proved the efficiency of this matting and very large areas are covered by it to keep the vast quantities of pot plants watered with minimum labour. Available postpaid by mail for only $4.60 per kit, which includes Ontario Retail Sales Tax in Ontario.
Easy to apply. Simply wet glass then press on as wallpaper. On fibre-glass panels use double-sided tape or staple to sash bars. Available in bundles of 12 , 16" or 48" wide giving coverage of 1,200 and 3,000 sq. ft.
* literature available at the Civic Garden Centre, Edwards Gardens MACIVER INDUSTRIAL SALES CO., LTD. P.O. Box 281, Agincourt, Ont. (416) 291-2534 4 Susan Gunby Jim Houston 278-0489
Creators of Bonsai and Miniature Landscapes Specializing in Interior Landscaping for your home or office
Children s Activity Page
Find the Hidden Flowering Shrubs
Instructions for finding the hidden plants. Below the puzzle you will find the list of plants hidden in the puzzle. Circle the hidden plants named in the puzzle.
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T A-M AR 1
AG A T OL
ONL AS A
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ANNO P PH
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Fast growing shrubs
Some of the shrubs in the list are rather slow at first but after they have oO C0 rT FRE as eel Ba ap SL COP mM Ow pial) lewd m0 Ww become established will grow faster. E Oma XT Nee en Os N oy mm om un oO cy 0 or (eon lig ee lg BS emis Gd an PC) D> T _| OH Oy Pl) COTO CY L da nl er ED Ee ap es Em A eB wn oJ Se A en BE ee eT aR i moa nom om on Co
Tamarix

Prunus
Forsythia Rhus
Sambucus Hydrangea Ribes
Cuytisus
Ligustrum Rosa
Buddleia Magnolia Salix
Aesculus
Crataegus
Deutzia
Eleagnus
Malus Spirea
Metasequoia Syringa
Philadelphus Viburnum
Potentilla Weigela YOUR AD Please Support can appear here for as little as $168 per year! Our Advertisers. They Help Make It Happen.
Coming Events of Interest
March 13-20, 1977.
Philadelphia Flower and Garden Show, sponsored by the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society, at Civic Center, Philadelphia. Contact: the society at (215) 922-4801.
March 19-27, 1977
New England Spring Garden and Flower Show, sponsored by the Massachusetts HorticulturalSociety, at Commonwealth Armory, Boston. Contact: the society at (617) 536-9280.
March 26 to April 6, 1977
Chicago Flower and Garden Show, sponsored by the Chicago Horticultural Society and Botanic Garden at McCormick Place, Chicago. Contact: (312) 332-2868.
FREE!
Send today for McConnell s latest, all-color Garden Catalogue, featuring top-quality Nursery Stock, Seeds and Supplies. McConnell s serving Canadian gardeners for 66 years.
THE McCONNELL NURSERY CO. LTD. PORT BURWELL, ONTARIO No0J 1TO Phone 519-874-4405
April 7-11, 1977
Plant Show, at Toronto International Centre of Commerce, Airport Rd., Mississauga.
April 14, 1977
Spring Meeting of The Canadian Rose Society, at The Civic Garden Centre, at 8:00 p.m.
May 18-20, 1977
Chelsea Flower Show, sponsored by the Royal Horticultural Society, at Chelsea Royal Hospital Grounds, London, England. Fellows viewing will be on May 17, 1977.
June 16-17-18, 1977
Ontario Horticultural Association Convention, at University of Windsor, Windsor, Ontario. Contact: Russell F. Gomme (416) 965-1091.

TheHydroponic Soilless GardeningSystem
Interior plantings of new Civic Garden Centre feature our Hydroponic Soilless Garden Systems. 7517 Bren Rd., Mississauga L4T 3V4.
The following Specialty groups meet at the CENTRE for regular meetings: The Toronto Bonsai Society, The Can. Chrysanthemum Society, The Can. Rose Society, Gardening Under Lights Group, The Highrise Gardeners, Vegetable Plot Gardeners, The Southern Ontario Orchid Society, The Rhododendron Society and The Junior Gardeners ( Green Thumb & Enthusiasts ) of the Civic Garden Centre. You are welcome to attend any of the Society meetings or other interests Please call for meeting times.

Come see us before you plant and we ll help you with your matchmaking.

e New for 1977 e Full colour throughout e 144 pages e over 1200 trees and other plants e plus valuable gardening information
Obtain yours now at any Sheridan Garden Centre for $1.00 or free with any purchase