W. G. (Grant) Ross, (Chairman); T. W. (Tom) Thompson (Ex officio Metropolitan Parks Commissioner); Directors for one year Mrs. K. G. (Audrey) Allman; G. A. (Gordon) Fear; Mrs. J. A. (Edna) Gardener; G. A. (Gilbert) Milne; Mrs. M. A. (Chris) Okawara; Mrs. O. K. (Thisbe) Schenk; L. C. (Larry) Sherk; Directors for two years M. (Murray) Blankstein; R. (Richard) Hook; J. C. (Jack) Mason; J. (Jerry) Maccabe; H. A. (Hal) Price; Mrs. J. B. (Anne) Conlin; Directors for three years I. A. (Irwin) Bailey; Mrs. D. P. (Elizabeth) Bryce; J. (James) Craig; J. (James) Floyd; Mrs. G. Mac. (Beth) Frost; Mrs. G. (Shirley) Irvine; Mrs. J. R. M. (Lois) Wilson; Mrs. J. W. (Awdrey) Clarke, Executive Secretary; S. (Sid) Morris, Editor. Graphics and Printing Drewmark Graphics, Toronto General Information ISSN0380-1470
Trellisis publishedinthe months ofJanuary, April, May, June, September and November and distributed on or about the 15th of the month previous by the Civic Garden Centre, 777 Lawrence Avenue East, Don Mills, Ontario M3C 1P2. The Centre is located in Edwards Gardens, at Leslie Street and Lawrence Avenue East, the geographical centre of Metropolitan Toronto. It is a non-profit gardening and floral arts information organization with open membership. Subscriptions to Trellis are only available through Centre membership ($10 per year). Opinions expressed within do not necessarily reflect those of the Centre. This is Volume 4, Number4.
For ideas . . . inspiration . . . information . . . join
The CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE
How to keep houseplants happy? Gardens glowing? Shrubs scintillating? Lawns luxurious? Join us and find out all this and more. At The Civic Garden Centre you'll be among friends, people who share the same interests you do in gardening and horticultural things.
As a Civic Garden Centre member, you enjoy free borrowing privileges in the new Horticultural Library s over 3,000 gardeningbooks. You save 10% on purchases in the new Garden and Book Shops, over $2. You enroll in members only special horticultural and flower arrangingclasses. You receivesix issuesof Trellis magazine mailed to your home each year.
Care for more details? Call 445-1552 now.
JOIN NOW
Please make cheques payable to THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE 777 Lawrence Avenue East DON MILLS, Ontario M3C 1P2
I wish to become a member as indicated above and enclose my cheque for $ ____. O Please accept the additional amount as a donation to the work of The Civic Garden Centre which you will acknowledge with an official receipt for income tax purposes (Reg. No. 0228114-56-13). (6)
Editorial
These past few months have passed in a hurry and with this issue we will have a short break. The September Trellis will be out for the opening ofthe Canadian National Exhibition. This issue will be devoted almost entirely to chrysanthemum and Internatinal 77 (the chrysanthemum flower show of the year).
I have heard rumours that a number of members are disappointed that Trellis is not coming out on time. [ would like to point out several aspects of Trellis production that perhaps most members do not realize.
1) All articles are written and contributed to the magazine free of charge. The authors don t receive a cent for their hard work. Sometimes the authors forget or get - involved in other activities so that they miss their deadline. When this happens it throws out all the set deadlines, and, therefore, the issue is late but it is always out by the first of the month of issue.
2) Some announcements in Trellis
are last minute decisions and therefore are already late when submitted, but we like to include them so at least some people are kept up-to-date before the event happens.
In this issue you will find the Civic Garden Centre s program for the next six months. When the new managerial positions have been filled at the Centre you might find that the programs will be expanded; if so, you will be informed through Trellis.
Since the Centre is open to nine o'clock Wednesday evenings it is my intention for the present to be available Wednesday evenings at the Centre. So ifyou have a problem with a tree, shrub or a house plant feel free to drop in or phone so I can try to help solve your gardening problem. Ifit is impossible for you to get in touch with me Wednesday evenings, feel free to leave your questions or plant specimens at the Centre and [ will get back to you.
-Sid Morris Editor
GENERAL MANAGER e OFFICE MANAGER
The newly expanded Civic Garden Centre, in the heart of Metropolitan Toronto, requires a General Manager and an Office Manager. The Centre, with 3500 members, contains a 500-seat Floral Hall, lecture rooms, workshops, gift and book shops and an outstanding horticultural library. Its setting is the 14-acre Edwards Gardens, one of Metro Toronto s most beautiful public parks of wo deflower gardens.
Duties of the General Mana ude planning of programs and directing all activities with the agsistanceof staff and volunteers.
Dutiesofthe Office Manager will be'to oversee all business matters.
Qualifications: The General Manager will have a degree or training in horticulture and experience in programming; the Office Manager will have a degree or training in accounting.
Please apply, enclosing data re qualifications and salary expected to: The Search Committee, Board ofThe Civic Garden Centre, 777 Lawrence Ave. East, Don Mills, Ontario M3C 1P2 Telephone: (416) 445-1552
July Gardening
A. R. Buckley
The heat ofJuly often takes the edge offthe ardor of many gardeners, but there are many seasonal jobs that must be carried out this month. Since this is usually a hot and dry period it may seem more practical to leave the gardening chores altogether until the cooler days of September. If sufficient prevacation care is given, a garden will recover from a two or three week period of neglect, but long term damage can result from complete abandon.
Drought is apt to occur this month and the water must be given in adequate amounts when needed. Thoroughly soak the soil when dry, then leave it for several days before watering again. First, attend to those plants that are most likely to suffer from lack ofwater; for example, spring planted evergreens, and then all other spring planted shrubs and trees. Whenever possible water the herbaceous border or rose beds thoroughly and then mulchwith asuitable material immediately after.
The best methodofwatering zinnias and other plants that are subject to mildew duringhot, dry weather, is by a soaker hose or by letting the garden hose run underneath the foliage. Place a piece of burlap, a flower pot or a garden glove over the hose nozzle to prevent soil gouging when watering. This is the best time to trim the new growth on evergreen hedges such as yew and cedar, as they have almost completed their summer s growth. How severely you prune depends upon the maturity of the hedge; if it hasn t grown as high as
required, cut the ends off the new shoots and let them develop. If the hedge has about reached the height and width you wish, the new growth should be pruned back to within an inch or two ofwhere it started.
Garden chrysanthemums should have their tops pinched for the last time this week. Remove the tips with the thumbnail and index finger. This makes the plants more bushy and compact, and induces a larger number offlowers.
Snip off all the seed pods from lilacs, shrubby potentillas and azaleas. Not only will the plants look tidier but they will be able to divert the foodsupply to build up next year s bloom rather than to produce seeds. The shrubby potentillawill reward you for this effort by producing alate summer display of flowers. This practice should be applied to the flower garden as well. It is best to remove the blooms as they fade, before seed pods develop. Most annuals will flower for alonger period as aresult ofthis management. Pansies, ofcourse, thrive ifthe flowers are pickedevery day, andwill deteriorate quickly if allowed to produce seeds.
Root cuttings, about two inches long, from Oriental poppies, bleeding hearts (Dicentra), bugloss (Anchus) and many other fleshy rooted plants will give rise to sturdy youngplants by next springifset in trenches in sandy soil now.
Dahlias will need lots of attention this month. Pinch all shootswith two pairs of leaves on all plants. This will be sufficient pinching for pompon and miniature dahlias. On large flowering kinds, allow four
shoots to develop. On each of the four shoots remove all side branches DO [TNOW/ SAVE 30% OF GREENHOUSE HEATING COSTS! except for the two basal ones. These will provide the second crop of blooms. As flower buds develop, disbud to asingle bloom on each shoot.
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Rhododendron Plantings in Edwards Gardens
Ken Duncan
Edwards Gardens is situated at the southwest corner of Lawrence Avenue East and Leslie Street in Don Mills. It is at the approximate geographical centre of Metropolitan Toronto and is part ofthe Metro Parks system.
About 20 years ago rhododendrons and azaleas were planted by Leslie Hancock on both sides of the stream (a tributary of the Don River) that runs through the valley bisecting Je the Gardens fre piifiorth
arthe winter of 1972-73, a suggestion was made to our popular Metropolitan Parks Commissioner T. W. (Tommy) Thompson. Ifthe Parks Department would prepare
ground adjacent to the successful planting on the west bank of the stream, members of the Society might present a collection of rhododendrons and azaleas to the Gardens in the name of the Rhododendron Society of Canada, to be planted in this new area. Mr. Thompson gave the green light.
With the co-operation of H. R. Hambly, Director ofOperations and
Maintenance, and Otto Richter,
of the local membe ) Ss donations andplants y chasedfrom two nur
cepted suggestions for placerat with regard to colour, time of bloom, and habit of the plant material. Large azaleas were moved from among the existing tall rhodo-
dendrons and the gardeners were amazed at the ease of moving 6-foot plants. New converts to the cause were created on the spot. The plants were soon thriving in their new positions.
The following year, 1974, a second planting was undertaken just south of the first effort. Again large rhododendrons and azaleas were moved from the original congested planting. Donations ofplant material and money for the purchase of new varieties were again offered by many local members of the Rhododendron Society. Local nurseries gave the same generous discounts as the year before. Metro Parks supplied some Red Oak (Quercus rubra) plus a standard Snowbird Hawthorn (Crataegus mordensis Snowbird ) andthe new flowering crab (Malus) Maybride for the required dapply shade. Also supplied were some plants of Lowboy Firethorn (Pyracantha coccinea) for the front ofthe planting. These plants, along with the existing Red Bud (Cercis canadensis) and mature spruce, cedar and White and Scotch Pine, add additional interest to the planting.
Later in the season new steps were constructed at the north end ofthe valley. These are on the west side of the stream and climb the west slope to the perennial and rose gardens above. On either side of these steps large rhododendrons were planted, gifts of some of the members. An underplanting of primulas was added. A small pool is in the vicinity and there is room for expansion in this area as well.
In May, 1975, the Toronto Regional Group held a plant auction in the Civic Garden Centre to raise money for further purchases for the collection. This was a very successful affair and is now held each May for the same purpose. It is called
the Rare Plant Auction and Sale. Many unusual plants are auctioned, including rhododendrons, azaleas, heathers, primulas, and Japanese maples.
Following the first auction, a new planting ofdeciduous azaleas was added to the Gardens. This planting is south again of the first two mentioned. In sunny location, the azaleas are growing well and have a good display of flowers each year. Metro Parks supplied a large White Pine (Pinus strobus) plus five Shingle Oak (Quercus imbricaria) which retain their leaves in winter for overhead shade from the late winter sun which sometimes damages the foliage of rhodondendrons. Plants ofMahonia aquifolium and Mountain Laurel (Kalmia latifolia) were also acquired. Foreman Joe Hirschberg supervised the planting. Later in the season, Mr. Rhodo , Leslie Hancock, presented the Society with about 80 large rhododendrons which were split up between Edwards Gardens and James Gardens, a Metro Park in west Toronto. The plants retained in Edwards Gardens were planted in the trees behind the original old planting. A pleasant woodsy walk is being developed in this area.
In 1976, following the second auction a bed of deciduous azaleas was plantedjust north of the large old rhododendrons. Another bed of rhodos and azaleas was developed north ofthe 1975 azalea planting. The primula collection was greatly increased and along with the very lovely blue Spanish Squill greatly increased along with the very lovely blue Spanish Squill.
At the time ofwriting (April 1977), two areas are in the process of being planted. One is to the northof the west central steps (by the garden shelter) which will be deciduous azaleas, the other to the north of
the steps mentioned earlier which will be rhododendrons.
Other areas on the west bank of the stream have been approved by Mr. Thompson and there should be an almost continuous planting of rhodos, azaleas and companion plants all along this area.
The collection in the Edwards Gardens now consists of about 160 rhododendrons varying in height from six inches to nine feet. There are about 50 varieties of large- and small-leaved rhododendron, including many old varieties (known as ironclads) as well as newer hybrids. Species are also included in the collection. These are about the same number of azaleas, both deciduous and persistent-leaved, up to seven feet high in some cases. Named hybrids number in the eighties. More are being added each year.
Many unusual plants are in the collection. A few are Japanese Maples in variety, Paperbark Maple (Acergriseum), Fothergilla monticola, Labrador Tea (Ledum groenlandicum), Bamboo (Sinarundinaria nitida), Stewartiapseudo-camellia. Various herbaceous material, such as Aruncus sylvester, Cephalaria tatarica, Daylilies (Hemerocallis) and Plantain Lilies (Hosta) in variety, and primulas all add to the planting.
The soil in the valley ofEdwards Gardens consists of about six inches of good loam over a subsoil of blue clay. The beds for the rhododendrons and azaleas have, therefore, been raised above the surrounding lawns with a 50-50 mixture of peat and loam to give the proper acidity required by these plants. Visitors can observe this method of planting on heavy clay and use it in their own gardens. As the plants are shallow rooted, they grow well in this medium as long as
moisture is present. Notice also the mulch of pine needles to conserve moisture, keep down weeds, and give a cool root run.
The blooming time in the Gardens is from mid-April until late June, depending on the variety. The keen gardener may see the various hybrids and species and decide what are the most suitable for his or her garden. The public is invited to visit the planting at any time (many plants have good fall colour) and to attend the annual flower show of rhododendrons and azaleas held each year in the Civic Garden Centre the first week-end in June. (June 4-5, 1977) The Society is always looking for new members.
By attending the Rare Plant Auction and Sale held each May, you will support a worthwhile project, which will give much pleasure to both the Society members and the general public for many years to come.
Ken Duncan is PastPresident of the Rhododendron Society ofCanada and President ofthe Toronto Regional Group RSC.
GARDEN ALL YEAR ROUND
Higbrise Gardeners
Evva Yellowley
An apartment gardener s winter rest is quite forgotten by now. Like plants after dormancy, we're all into our busiest season, working through one project after another and indeed several at one time. To make the best of each we plan ahead and keep notes, if we're smart. A notebook, a calendar with large spaces for writing, or a special plant diary is indispensable these days because only the well-organized highriser enjoys an unfrazzled summer.
House plants which needed it were repotted or potted on before the spring equinox, when they began their strongest growth of the year. For some, that was the first step on their way to the balcony: containers for plants which are to spend the summer outside must not only keep soil moisture in as long as possible, but must also insulate roots from over-heating by direct sun and the proximity of heatretaining cement floors and walls. Plastic pots in loose-fitting outer containers serve small plants well; the size of a large pot is already an asset, and such things as plastic, a light colour, and thick or double walls are better still.
For the all-too-briefsummer season, highrisers use as containers just about anything they find at hand, with or without drainage holes: soy tubs and packing cases, plastic laundry and wastebaskets, cement blocks and clay chimney pipes, wicker baskets, iron coal scuttles . . . name it and we'll use it.
Those ofus with time and energy enough to manage allotment gardens have our first crops on their
way by now, with perhaps one or even two more to plant. By the end of the season our harvest will be only one of several pleasures reaped we will also have made new friends, had ample exercise and sunshine, and, above all, have acquired still more knowledge about our favourite hobby.
Back home, on the balcony, we're using bagged commercial soils or soilless mixtures, or mixing our own if large amounts are needed and dollars really matter. Equal volumes of good garden loam, sharp builder s sand, and milled peat moss, thoroughly blended, make up a basic mix suited to most annuals, and it s re-usable year after year if it isn t abused by over-watering or over-fertilizing and has fresh organic matter added each spring.
Soilless mixtures are becoming increasingly popular among apartment gardeners because of their light weight. Based on vermiculite or milled Sphagnum peat moss, and containing all the nutrients plants are known to need, they are insectand disease-free, will serve for a full season and longer, and can be stored for up to five years. Cornell Mix recipes appear in many books.
Hydroponic gardening methods also have many attractive features, but few highrise members have as yet committed themselves to anything more than single-plant containers because of limitations of space.
We select both edibles and ornamentals according to, first ofall, the conditions we have to offer, and then for the effects we hope to achieve. Where strong winds are a
regular feature we avoid plants which are not wind-resistant, guided partly by experience and partly by common sense. Soft, large leaves, and flowers on soft or brittle stems, are at risk; hanging plants which form dense, heavy masses, also suffer. Safe plants are usually dwarf varieties, or compact, low-growing types with many small flowers, or trailing ones with lacey forms which allow wind to blow through, or those with springy stems which bounce instead offolding, or ones with dense heads on stems which bend but don t break.
The amount ofsun a balcony receives is decisive. Fruit-type vegetables such as tomatoes need at leastsix hours daily to develop worthwhile flavour, and that means sun right on the plant, not merely on the balcony. East, south and west exposures provide enough if we give careful thought to the locations of plants. Some north balcony gardeners have enough sun at the railing to support such crops, but most have better results and less trouble with leafy and root vegetables, which need ample bright light but little direct sun.
Patterns of sunlight also guide our choice of flowers. Those that want sun and most annuals do need at least four hours of direct rays daily but prefer many more. Those that want partial or full shade are best for the north balcony; in the other exposures they prefer back corners, side walls, or the shade of furniture or larger containers.
We can achieve an English garden effect on a balcony, indeed almost any effect, but chances of success increase in proportion to the amount ofplanning we do before planting. A rainbow ofcolours? Only a couple? White flowers for their visibility at night? Fragrant
flowers (which may attract bees as high as the 20th floor!)? Colours to blend with the adjacent room, or for contrast? The colours of edibles and ornamentals combined within planters or in groups?
Decisions, decisions! They're never easy to make, but with time, practise, and the help of shared experience, the highrise gardener makes them better and better each year, and so grows his balcony garden.
Mrs. Yellowley is President of Highrise Gardeners ofToronto.
Highrise Programming
Highrise Gardeners of Toronto areridingoffin newdirectionsthis year, through all the seasons, with 12-month programming. Come July and August, they'll bevisiting each other s balconies in the first such members exchange programme attempted by the fiveyear-old club. The September meeting will feature a potting workshop and discussion groups, followed by a year of five timely lectures, aslideshow,tours,showand-tell sessions, plant tables, the monthly Cuttings to read, and the Trading Post which enables members to swap plants to order.
Highrise Gardeners of Toronto meet on the second Tuesday of each month, September through June, at 8 p.m. in the Auditorium of the Civic Garden Centre. Single membership $15, couple $18 both include Centre membership. For further information call the Centre.
HOME MINDERS
Travellers: We visit your home daily to water plants & flowers, care for pets and houses.
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The Strangest of Perennials
A. R. Buckley
Lupins are the strangest of perennials.
Where they thrive, their beautiful long columnar spikes of peashaped flowers are unsurpassed by any other perennials.
But, they are also capable of destroying man s faith in his own gardening ability, for while his own tenderly nurtured plants may lack colour, lustre and vigour he can go to an old abandoned garden and see a dazzling display grown with no attention whatsoever.
There have been many reasons suggested for this. One ofthe most popular in recent years is that nearly all plants available now are fromthe famous Russell strain which is not as hardy or vigorous as the older kinds. Another is that lupins will not grow in soil that has the slightest suggestion of alkalinity. A third reason, which I feel has the greatest significance, is that lupins, like a few other plants, need close company in order to shade their roots.
While they flourish in the sun, the roots are easily dried out if not protected. Thus it is suggested that a mulch be applied in early July. Lupins that flowered in old gardens are usually growing through weeds and they have grown from seeds dropped to the groundthat have, no doubt, developeddeeply penetrating roots. :
Inthe border they should be plantedin the middle in groups of three to five, with one cultivar comprising one group. They need rather
a light sandy soil and excellent drainage.
The Russell strains have not the same stamina as the older types which are very difficult to get nowadays, but their large blossoms, shapely spikes and extensive range of colours provide a brilliance not previously known in perennial borders.
In his search for newer colours and larger blooms, Mr. George Russell secured lupins from sources
throughout the world andalthough no exact recordwas kept of his breeding, it is fairly certain that some annual species were used. This accounts for the short duration ofthe strain.
To keep the plant as long as possible, never allow the spikes to form seeds. Remove the deadflower heads as soon as they fade. Grow the plants in a sandy loam with good drainage, working in lots of peat to provide acid conditions. Plant them firmly in the sun or light shade and be prepared to renew the plants every thirdor fourth year from cuttings taken with a piece of the oldrootstock in April, or from seeds.
Seeds are readily obtainable from most seed catalogues. Start the seeds in flats or pots in June. Seeds ofthe Lupin are so hardthat it is necessary to file them on one side andsoak for a couple ofdays before planting. Since they are slow to germinate, I prefer to plant in pots
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(rather than directly in the garden) where I can keep a closer watch for weeds.
When the plants are growing well transplant them to a shaded area and line them out about six inches apart. Plant them in their permanent location in the border the following spring.
Special selected colours or cultivars may be propagated by cuttings. This is done in early spring when the plant has three to four inches of new growth. First, remove it from the soil and take cuttings of the young shoots with a base ofthe old rootstock. Treat the cuttingwith a hormone rootingpowder and root it in a shaded cold frame, indoors under lights, or in ashadedarea ofthe gardenwith a glass or plastic cover. When rooted, treat the cuttings as though they were seedling plants. Slugs are very fondofyoung lupin shoots so use plenty of slug bait around the seedlings or cuttings.
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Library
Mrs. Pamela MacKenzie, Librarian
Horticultural Periodicals in The Centre s Library
The library subscribes to over thirty periodicals on gardening and floral arts, all ofwhich are available for reference. Readers can often find up-to-date information on gardening topics which have not yet been described fully in books.
The following are notes onjust a few ofthe titles kept in the library:
General Gardening
American Horticulturist Published monthly official publication ofthe American Horticultural Society. Excellent colour and black and white illustrations. Book reviews by experts. Not for the novice, but the articles are stimulating andwell written.
Canada Green Published every other month is a new and welcome addition to that tiny band ofgardening periodicals published in Canada. It features articles on indoor and outdoor gardening suitable for the beginner gardener.
Horticulture Published monthly by the Massachussetts Horticultural Society. An excellent general magazine for the experienced and not-so-experienced gardener, covering every conceivable gardening topic. Well illustrated.
The Green Scene Published bi-monthly by the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society. Although its contents are mainly concerned with horticulture in the Delaware Valley, their issues always contain articles ofinterest to gardeners everywhere.
Specialized Gardening
Light Garden
Published bimonthly. From the Indoor Light
Gardening Society ofAmerica. This is for those experienced with gardening under lights.
Plants Alive Published monthly intended for the indoor gardening and greenhouse enthusiast.
Under Glass Published bimonthly for those whohave experience in greenhouse gardening.
Floral Arts
TheFlowerArranger andFlora are British quarterlies for flower arrangers ofall standards. Both are handsomely illustrated.
Summer Loan
The summer loan period will begin on June 15th, 1977 when books may be kept on loan until September 7th, 1977. A total ofsix books may be borrowed (two books per subject).
Water Lilies Aquatic Plants
Everything for the Water Garden Free Catalog on request
MOORE WATER GARDENS
PORT STANLEY; ONT. NOL 2A0
Phone 519-782-4052
PRUNING SPECIALIST
All Types OfShrubs & Trees Pruned Properly
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BRIAN SINCLAIR 762-5828 EVNGS.
DOMINION STORE SALES SLIPS WANTED
Drop (or mail) your Dominion sales slips into the Centre. Your help has provided our first wheelchair for our visitors use keep them coming.
Clematis Entwined Elegance
A. R. Buckley
From late July to September the glorious deep violent Jackman s clematis bestows its grand entwined elegance upon many Canadian homes. It is rather astonishing that more of these are not grown in Canada and in more assorted colours.
Perhaps this is because they are so beautiful and give such a dazzling display of bloom that many home gardeners think they must either be difficult to grow or are not hardy in their area.
True, the clematis requires an alkaline soil, but most soils seem to be alkaline enough to suit them, so this is not a general problem. If it is, the addition of ground limestone is usually an adequate solution. There are many very beautiful kinds that are hardy and one can be asured of at least the choice of one twining plant for some aspect around the house.
About 30 to 40 species of clematis will grow in North America. Many ofthem have no special ornamental value, but there are a few outstandingones with delicate foliage, moderate growth and outstanding flowers.
Clematis is one ofthosejewels that makes gardening a most pleasant experience.
The best and most popular hybrid is the one mentioned above, the Jackman clematis (C. xjackmanii) which, although one of the first hybrids to be introduced, is still the most popular because its large violet purple flowers are ofacolour
not seen in any other hardy vine. Grown against a background of white or grey these outstanding flowers are extremely prominent. It is an interspecific hybrid between the very large flowered Clematis lanuginosa and the Italian clematis (C. viticella).
There are many other hybrids of this cross and similar crosses involving Clematis lanuginosa, all of which require similar treatment. Among them are Jackmanii Superba, a greatly improved cultivar with large flowers and more intense colour than the common purple kind; Jackmanii Alba, with hugh white flowers; Ernest Markham, bright red, Nelly Moser, pale mauve with a red bar.
In eastern Canadathese grow best on a west or southwest wall. They all bloom on wood or growth produced the same year that is to say the young shoots sprouting from the old wood in early spring will go on to produce flowers this year. This dictates the pruning, for to get an abundance of the young wood it is necessary to cut the vines back part way in April. Sometimes our severe winters will do thisjob for us and it is necessary only to cut back to where the new shoots have started.
The Japanese sweet autumn clematis (Clematis paniculata) is one ofthe most useful and ornamental species. It is different from most desirable kinds in that it is extremely fast growing and has small flowers. It will reach a height of30 feet or
Nelly Moser Clematis more and serve quite well as a screening plant. In August it is covered with myriads of white flowers followed by silvery plumy seed heads that considerably extends its ornamental effect. This species needs some covering of straw for winter protection in eastern Canada.
Two useful and ornamental species are the gold clematis (Clematis tangutica) and the common Virgin's Bowers (Clematis virginiana). The gold clematis is from northern China, has bright yellow flowers which are also followed by glistening decorative seed heads.
A less common species, the Chinese clematis (Clematis tangutica), is now available from some Canadian nurseries. It is a very hardy species with rich yellow flowers and grey-green leaves. This is
the best of the yellow clematis and it is noted for its beautiful flowers, which are four inches in diameter, and also for its large head of feathery fruits. It makes a good screen up to 8 to 10 feet high and should be used much more than it is for this purpose.
Most clematis need support upon which to climb. Choose twiggy branches, trellises, espaliers or arbors; or train them up large poles at the back of the flower border.
They nearly all needshade at their roots, which may be provided by mulching with leaves, black polyethylene plastic or bark fiber. Ground covers such as periwinkles or Japanese spurge could help to provide shade if planted around the base of the climber.
Stem rot is the most serious as well as confusing disease of these plants. It is usually caused by mechanic injury. A nicking or stem cuts from a hoe or other tool may result in diseases and dieback. To protect your vine, it is a good plan to provide a collar to protect the basal portion of the plant and spray every two weekswith a good fungicide.
Clematis are the aristocrats of vines. Attention to their cultural requirements will produce plants that will soon prove to be the pride of your garden.
It s Happening at the Centre
A 4-week Beginners Bonsai Course
Starting June 8, 1977 1:30t0 3:30 OR 7:30to0 9:30 Bonsai Artist Jim Houston-Gunby Instructing For further information and/or alternate dates call 445-1552
Ramona Clematis
CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE
TRY OUR SPECIAL SERVICES.
e Custom made DRIED FLOWER ARRANGEMENTS
® Preserving WEDDING BOUQUETS, CORSAGES or other SPECIAL FLOWER PIECES
VISIT...CALL... JOINUS... as a volunteer, apply your skills or learn new ones in the preparation and making of preserved floral bouquets and associated crafts.
HANDICRAFTED ITEMS FOR SALE ALL YEAR ROUND
COMPLETE LANDSCAPING AND DESIGN SERVICE CALLAFTER FIVE PAUL JOHN
STUDENTS OF LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTURE UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO or
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The ideal soil mix correctly balanced to fill the needs of all growing plants indoors or out.
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T. STRAIN & SON
Cannington, Ont.
Phone (Toronto) 364-6068
A hobby without peer for leisure, home beauty and livability a garden that blooms all year with onlya few hours care each week.
Our catalogue contains dozens of full colour photos of prefabricated greenhouses in lifetime aluminum. With it you can choose a greenhouse that is sure to harmonize with your home.
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Dept. T, 325 Welland Ave., St. Catharines, Ontario
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