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This Month s Articles
Chrysanthemums for beauty and pleasure / 6
A brief history of the Canadian Chrysanthemum and Dahlia Society / 12
Stopping and timing chrysanthemums / 14
The Front Cover
Chrysanthemum variety Bruera
Photo by Harold Walker, hybridizer and F.N.C.S.
Publication Committee for Trellis
Lawrence C. Sherk (Chairman), James Floyd, Richard Hook, Jerry Maccabe.
Editor Sid Morris
Graphics and Printing
Drewmark Graphics, Toronto
General Information ISSN0380-1470
* Trellisis publishedin the monthsofJanuary, April, May, June, September and November and distributed on or about the 15th of the month previous by the Civic Garden Centre, 777 Lawrence Avenue East, Don Mills, Ontario M3C 1P2. The Centre is located in Edwards Gardens, at Leslie Street and Lawrence Avenue East, the geographical centre of Metropolitan Toronto. It is a non-profit gardening and floral arts information organization with open membership. Subscriptions to Trellis are only available through Centre membership ($10 per year). Opinions expressed within do not necessarily reflect those of the Centre. Thisis Volume 4, Number 5.
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Editorial
The main news this month is, of course, the appointment of a fulltime new general manager for the Civic Garden Centre. He is Clive E. Goodwin, who has been for the past twelve years the executive director of the Conservation Council of Ontario.
i: Sn £ a Mr. Clive E. Goodwin
Mr. Goodwin was responsible for the programming and management of the Council (which has numerous affiliate groups) and he has extensive business experience in accounting and business management.
Distinguished Public Service Award from the Federation of Ontario Naturalists. We'd like to welcome Mr. Goodwin to his new post, which he took up August 15.
We'd also like to congratulate John Bradshaw. On June 15 John was honoured with the first annual Media Award from the Ontario Federation of Agriculture for his program This Business of Farming . John s program, which is broadcast every Sunday morning over CFRB, was judged to be the most innovative and broadranging media presentation of the farmer s story to both farm and urban audiences in 1976 .
Many thanks should go to D.W. Snow, Commissioner for Parks and Recreation, Borough of North York for the colourful planting of begonias and impatiens that he provided for the lower bed (across from the Trellis Garden Shop and the Briar Patch Bookshop).
He is also a well known expert in Sid Morris ornithology and holds a Editor
Don t Forget
MEMBERS NIGHT
September 21, 1977 8 p.m. at the Civic Garden Centre
Aspecial feature ofMembers Night will be the presentation of Flowers as an International Language
by Elizabeth M. Bryce
In a demonstration that is part artistic display and part travelogue, Mrs. Bryce will use flower arrangements, accompanied by slides flashed onto a large screen, to recreate the essence and ambiance of different countries. Mrs. Bryce, a past president of the Garden Club ofToronto, has travelled extensively throughout the world, and has made a practice of acquainting herself with the flora of every country she visits.
On Members Night the plaque for the Edna Gardner Wing, named in honour ofthe Centre s founder, will be unveiled, and the Centre s new general manager, Clive Goodwin, will be officially introduced to members.
Chrysanthemums for beauty and pleasure ......
It is difficult to select one flower as being more beautiful than another. But I believe one does stand above all others the chrysanthemum, queen of all flowers, blooming from the end of July right through the frosts of September and October.
Some of the types suitable for permanent planting are pom poms, which are small buttons; Koreans, which form small sprays; the anemone, with an unusual centre; and spoon varieties, which have unusual petals. A recent introduction developed for our northern climate is the masterpiece series.
All bedding chrysanthemums should be cut down to 4 after the ground has frozen and covered with a thick mulch of leaves or straw to protect them from the thaws that might occur during the winter. The mulch should be removed only after the possibility of refreezing has passed in the spring.
Growing for exhibition
Those who like to exhibit blooms at flower shows must try to bring them to the ultimate of perfection. This, to me, is a challenge unsurpassed.
Exhibition chrysanthemums are planted out in prepared beds approximately three feet wide in order to allow for three rows of plants 15 to 18 apart.
Preparation
The beds should have been dug over in the fall, incorporating any composting materials that had accumulated over the summer. Chrysanthemums prefer a medium to heavy soil, but they may also be grown successfully in sandy soil. Copious amounts of straw, manure or leaves should be dug in to help break down the clay soils and to help retain moisture in the sandy ones. If heavy soil is left in clumps over the winter, the frost will also contribute to its refinement.
In the spring dig over the beds three weeks before planting, incorporating
four ounces of balanced fertilizer such as 7-7-7 to every square yard. Then leave the beds to settle before planting them out.
Planting out should be done after the risk of frost has passed. Lightly rake over the beds to make an even surface, mark the bed by inserting a small stick in the centre of each end. Cut a stick 18 long to measure the distances between plants and rows. Set another stick on either side of the centre one at the distance of your measure. These sticks represent the lines of plants. Use a piece of string attached to each end stick to mark the rows, and as your measure to space the plants.
Potting
A good potting soil mixture is one made of seven parts friable loam, three parts moist peat moss and two parts coarse sand. Mix well, adding four ounces of 7-7-7 fertilizer to the bushel. Leave standing for 10 days and turn it over twice before using.
Half fill the pots with soil, set the new plant into it, spreading the roots out and fill the pot to within 1 of the top. Place it in a cool area, giving it as much light as possible, but do not put it in direct sunlight. Some type of shading must be used to prevent the tender leaves from burning. Watering should be done sparingly as our aim is to get the root system to find its own water. Only water when the pots appear to be drying out. Overhead spraying often is very beneficial to the young plants and should be done about twice a day without soaking the soil.
Planting out
Dig a hole with a trowel deep enough for the soil ball of your plant to be 2 below the surface, making sure the bottom of the hole is level so there is no chance of a void under the plant. Place the wellwatered plant in the hole, then fill in with soil, pressing it down around the roots
very firmly and leaving a 2 depression to allow moisture to drain into it. Place a small stake beside each plant and tie the plant to it along with a label. Tying will prevent the wind from blowing the plant over. If the soil is very dry, water the plants in. No more water-; ing will be required at all unless very dry conditions prevail. The object is to let the root system find its own moisture. If the leaves droop, just give them an overhead spraying with a fine spray before 10 a.m. or after 3 p.m.; never in the heat of the day.
A light hoeing should be done once a week until mid-July to keep down the weeds and to keep the soil open because the roots need air. Around that time the plants send out fine roots close to the surface of the soil; these are the feeder roots for the blooms and further hoeing would damage them. The best hoe is the dutch type which will keep the top of the soil in good order without chopping off the roots.
Stopping and timing
It is necessary to remove the growing tip ofthe plant to induce the breaks or
side shoots to grow so the blooms will be ready for show day. This is called stopping and timing and should be done toward the end of May. It is from these side shoots that prize blooms develop. Two breaks should be chosen to carry the large exhibition blooms; three or four for medium exhibition blooms; and four to six for cut flowers. The best blooms are developed on the third, fourth and fifth breaks. When the breaks have developed into stems they must be tied to a cane to keep them straight and to prevent them from being broken off at the main stem by the wind. This caning should be repeated periodically as the plant grows. Leave enough slack to allow fora little movement between cane and stem.
Securing
Buds, usually three at the top of each stem, will start to appear around the first week in August. The first bud, which is the largest, is called the first crown bud and is the one which is needed for the prize bloom. The other buds are called terminals and are to be removed in stages. When the first crown
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is about the size of a small pea, remove the smallest terminal bud, being very careful not to damage the crown bud or the stem. A good way to do this is to use a match stick to push the bud sideways. It will snap off easily. Repeat this procedure each day until all the terminal buds are removed. This is called securing the bud. Closely inspect the crown bud before removing the last terminal bud to make sure insects have not damaged it. If they have, the flower will be distorted and will be of no use for show purposes, so it should be removed and the last terminal bud be left to take over.
It takes between 7 and 11 weeks from securing the bud until full bloom, depending on the cultivar. Any new side shoots should be removed so all the plant energy can be directed into the developing bloom. Also, a light mulching with grass trimmings will contribute to the preservation of moisture around the feeder roots.
Pests
Pests will become a problem if not controlled. A good method of control is overhead watering with a watering can anda fine spray. Water soluble fungicideand insecticide combined should be used every seven to ten days. In spite of this, mildew and black spot on the leaves will develop if the plants do not get enough air circulation. No overhead watering should be done on plants when the buds have begun to show colour. An overhead covering such as polythylene should be installed to protect the blooms from heavy rains.
Showing chrysanthemums
Show blooms should be cut between 24 and 48 hours before judging time. Carefully study the show rules before cutting. There is little point in cutting blooms you cannot use. After making your selection, mark the plant, cut the stems 24 long and crush the ends with a pair of pliers. Then put the stems into deep buckets of cold water up to within 2 of the blooms. Drill holes into the rim of the bucket and tie each bloom separately and securely so it cannot touch the others. Keep them in a cool place until setting up time.
When you arrive at the hall, contact
the show secretary and pick up your entry tags. Vases are supplied by the society for your use. Take enough for your needs and fill them with water. Tables will be set up for staging.
Put marks on a cane at intervals of 207, 22 and 24 to determine the length of the stem, including the bloom. A good balance should be maintained between the height ofthe vase, the size ofthe bloom and the height of the display. The display should be approximately twice the height ofthe vase.
Set the blooms in the following manner: one cut 20 long, including bloom; three blooms cut two 22 long and one 24 long; five blooms cut two 20 long, two 22 long and one 24 long. Allowance should be made for extra large blooms.
Crush the cut end ofthe stem before placing it in the vase and stuff newspaper into the top of the vase to support the stem. Tuck in a few leaves or sprigs of cedar to cover the paper and then attach the completed entry form. The rest is up to the judges.
Accessories to bring along with your blooms: newspaper, pliers, pruning shears, extra leaves or cedar sprigs, pen, pencil, artist s paint brush and some rags.
Preparing for next year
After the shows it will be time to think about digging up the stools for winter storage.
Selection
Careful selection of stock is most important and only healthy plants or those carrying the best blooms should be kept for propagation. Marking plants for stock selection should be done before the blooms are cut either by tagging them or painting the stem. I find painted stems are most easily identified. Make sure also that they are tagged with the name of the cultivar.
Preparation
Cut all the stems to 12 after cutting the blooms. Leave them this way until the hard frosts are imminent. Dig up the stools very carefully to avoid breaking off the laterals which are the white shoots or runners that grow just beneath the surface of the soil. Trim the
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long shoots to 2 of the stem, rinse all the earth off and then dip them in a mild insecticide solution.
Take a clean box about 5 deep and place 2 of clean soil in the bottom. Then place the stools 2 apart and pack firmly with soil up to the top of the root ball. They are now ready for storage.
Storage
There are several methods of storage, but the important thing is temperature. If you choose to freeze your plants they should be kept frozen until you bring them in for propagation. If you choose to keep them above freezing, the temperature must be kept below 40°F.
Plants that freeze and thaw then freeze again are usually killed. Temperatures over 40°F will cause the plants to throw shoots. Therefore, keep them dormant until you are ready to bring them into the warm temperature for propagation. If you choose to store your plants in a cold frame they will probably freeze. It is most important they stay frozen until brought in. Leave the covers off until they are well frozen then cover them with a thick mulch of straw or leaves and put the sashes over or cover them with plastic to keep any water out.
Starting over again
Plants should be placed under lights about the first of February in a temperature of about 50°F. Soil should be moist but not wet and it is beneficial to mistspray the necks of the stools. This will help bring on the new growth. By the first week in March the shoots should be tall enough to take cuttings about 1% to 2 long.
Preparation
A clean fish box is a very good propagator and a mixture of 50% peat moss and 50% sand is an excellent rooting medium. Make sure the soil is moist but not wet, fill the box to within 1 of the top and firm it down with your hand.
Propagation
Take the cuttings with a razor blade below a leaf node, remove the leaf and dip the cut end into a rooting hormone. Tap off any excess then insert into the soil about 2 apart. Do not forget to mark each row with the cultivar s name.
A simple cover can be made with two wire coat hangers and plastic film. Cut the hooks off the hangers, shape them to form a U, place one at either end of the box with the ends in the soil and take a piece of polythene wrapping (used to cover clothes from the cleaners) and place the box inside it. Use clothes pins to close the ends.
Propagators placed in a cool greenhouse should be set on a heating cable to maintain a soil temperature between 55° and 60°F. Those placed under lights in the basement or on a window sill will not need to bottom heat. Lights should be placed 15 above the plants and should be left on 14 hours a day.
Watering
Cuttings will droopa little during the first few days and overhead misting will be most beneficial. Do not water the plants as there should be enough moisture in the soil and air for their needs. If condensation occurs on the inside of the polythene, remove it and turn it inside out to prevent the droplets from falling on the leaves, which could cause them to rot.
After 10 days the plants will appear to be growing and the end of the polythene should be opened to allow them to get used to the atmosphere. They should be well rooted in three weeks and ready for moving into 3 pots or styrofoam cups.
Setting outside
Cold frames should be set up ready for theyoung plants as soon as the danger of heavy frosts has passed. Make sure that all holes are sealed inside the cold frames and that the cover for the top fits well.
rMove the young plants into the cold frame, setting the pots on wood boards to keep them off the ground and to allow good drainage. Covers should be left on for a few days to let the plants become acclimatized to their new surroundings. Gradually open up the covers over a period of a few days so that they do not get a severe shock. Shading material such as cheese cloth must be used from the time of setting out as the young plants will scorch very quickly. Close the covers overnight if the temperature forecast is down below 40°F.
We are now getting into May, time to prepare the beds once again and the chrysanthemum growing cycle has come full turn.
Roy Fox is the president ofthe Canadian Chrysanthemum andDahlia Society and has been growing in Canadafor over ten years both in Toronto and Montreal. This article explains how to grow early flowering chrysanthemums in Canada.
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A brief history of the Canadian Chrysanthemum and Dablia Society
by John andLilDickson
The first chrysanthemum club was formed in 1959. However, these first few horticulturists were too busy to concentrate on regular meetings, although they did continue to grow chrysanthemums.
In March 1963 a new group, which included some of the original enthusiasts, was formed. They decided to promote the growing of chrysanthemums in Canada and feltthat a societywas neededtobring growers together to discuss cultural problems. The eleven-member
the Cl Garden C the compliment of pot
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The Society was able A hold four meetings, two shows, seven / directors meetingsand mail five | cultural bulletins to a membershiglot 100 in that year.
In 1965 the Society moved to the Civic Garden Centre in Edwards Gardens where they were able to book regular meetings and show dates. It was also at this time that legal proceedings created the Canadian Chrysanthemum Society withasignedCharterandSeal. Inthat
year, too, the City of Hamilton designated the yellow chrysanthemum as the civil floral emblem. This led to an added interest inthe C.C.S. and Hamilton invited the Toronto group to show in the Sheraton Connaught Hotel in their first Chrysanthemum Festival. In this year retired members manned publicity booths at the Toronto Garden Club Spring Show at the O Keefe Centre, the Ontario Horticulture Convention at the Universit of Guelph,and the Flower
ict Chrysanthewas the first
increased and the Society made headway.
The following year, due to the influence ofour internationalvisitors,it was decided to add dahlias to the Society s interests. This was at first ona trial basis, and it was not until February 1975 that the dahlia was added to the Society Charter.
During the last nine years the Society has kept up the progress.
There are nowfourEarlyShows at the Canadian National Exhibition (Horticulture Building); Vaughan Nurseries; Civic Garden Centre; Hamilton Botanical Gardens;andthe Late Greenhouse Chrysanthemum Show (Civic Garden Centre, Edwards Gardens).
This year, at the first International Show with dahlias, societies from overseas and the United States plan to be here. TheCanadianSocietyhas from1959 beenself-supporting.However, this year Wintario has donated a grant to assist the Society put on International 77. There will be lecturers fromScotland,Englandand Canada. The public will be invited to lectures, panel discussions, slide shows, demonstrations in chrysanthemums, dahlias and flower arranging. We hope public interest willbe aroused to thejoyofgardening and that both young and old will be encouraged to engage in this fascinating hobby.
The Society has, from 1966, held regular meetingsonthe fourthThursday of every month in the Civic Garden Centre. There are teaching lectures and a social hour with coffee where members and friends can talk and discuss garden problems.
The Society does specialize in chrysanthemums and dahlias, but most members aregardenersandare able to teach in a wider sphere of horticulture. It is one of the finest teaching societies.
Interested in gardening? Join us at the Civic Garden Centre.
John andLil Dickson are two of thefounding members of C.C.D.S. and for many years have been the heart of the Society.
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One of the main essentials in chrysanthemum exhibiting is stopping and timing. In fact, I would say it is the most important factor if you are growing for the show bench. It is no use having your flowers come to their peak a week before the show or a week after. It is the day that counts and if you do not have them there on the show bench your stopping and timing has been at fault. Do not blame the weather, for if you are keen and dedicated enough the weather can be beaten and even used as an ally in the fight for red tickets.
Before we can really consider stopping and timing we have to decide on our aims one show, two shows, or, say, a show every weekend throughout the season. Then we must consider the date or dates of the shows we are aiming for. Here we really have a problem tied up with cultivar selection rather than stopping and timing. Both earlies and lates can be put into two general sections: one for early flowering types such as Margaret Riley, Parasol or Nancy Matthews in the earlies, and Elizabeth Woolman, Cream Duke or Woking Rose in the lates. The other section would be for the late flowering types such as Valuem Gladys Sharpe or Francis Margerison in the earlies and Keith Luxford, Shirley Primrose or Goldfoil in the lates. The maxim here is for an early-in-the-season show choose natural early flowering cultivars and for a very late show select natural late flowering types.
We have been talking about shows and cultivars used at extreme ends of the exhibiting season, but what of the timing of chrysanthemums for the normal season shows?
[ expect to be rooting cuttings about 15 weeks before I intend to
stop the plants so as to obtain a plant in a condition fit enough to stand a check in its growth. For instance, earlies stopped in April are put to root in early January and those stopped in late May are put to root sometime in February. Similarly with lates, the February- or March-stopped plants are put to root in December and the May stoppings are rooted in February. [ find that if I treat rooting and stopping in this manner it is much easier to have the flowers at the right time. Let us consider the first crown flowers first, that is, the majority of the earlies and quite a number of the lates. When stopping a plant which is in a vegetative state of growth | only lever out the smallest possible portion of the growing point or top of the plant, but I make sure that the stem is completely severed. Do not merely pinch out the top of the uppermost undeveloped leaves. With a light pinch it is possible to miss severing the stem and if this happens that plant will just continue to grow with a few deformed leaves at the top. But by using a levering action on the succulent tip the minimum amount of plant goes and you are sure to sever the stem. The point of this light pinch (as it is called) is to produce even laterals at the break point. Even laterals produce even blooms on or about the same day. A hard stop, i.e., going down the plant 2 , 3 or even 4 will produce uneven laterals and one ofthem will in all probability produce its flowers about a week before the others. This, remember, is for plants in vegetative growth. A different kettle of fish is the plant that is coming up to a natural break. If we now make a light pinch the resultant laterals or breaks will be short and the flowers short of
petal, of inferior size and too early. So the treatment here is a hard stop remove at least the top five laterals and the break bud.
Here is some advice to back up this practice in which I sincerely believe. If you grow a plant on first crown and let break naturally, the first lateral will have 12 leaves, the second 14 leaves, the third 16 leaves, the fourth 18 leaves, the fifth 20 and the sixth and all other laterals 20 to 22 leaves. Having proved this in practice | know it as fact. We also know that the size of the flower depends on the length and strength of the lateral. Therefore, the better flower is always going to come from the lateral, at least number six from the break bud. Thus a hard stop, by removing the top five laterals (the leaves and break bud may be left on), will give us the better blooms. Similarly, on our vegetative plants (nowhere near the break bud) by removing that small piece at the top we remove the top five laterals at least.
The method of stopping considerably influences timing, for the fewer the leaves on the laterals, the smaller the resultant bloom with fewer petals coming into flower much faster than lateral furnished with sufficient leaves.
The earlier stop will produce longer laterals with more leaves, more petals in the bloom, better blooms which take much longer to come to maturity. An important factor in timing?
Now for methods of guaranteeing blooms for a certain show. [ have always practised growing a certain number of cultivar and stopping them in three different batches. The number of each cultivar grown depends on the expected reliability of the cultivar in question. If it is one that can be good occasionally | would grow only a few say six. If it is a reliable one, about 15. The 15 would be rooted all at the same time but would be stopped in three batches of five at ten-day intervals. For example, 15 Bruera: five stopped on May 5th, five stopped
on May 15th and the other five on May 25th. By this method one can have blooms at maturity over the show periods, and if you are aiming at a few shows they will all be of use.
I have based my growing of earlies for exhibition on this principle over the past 24 years and every year | have grown for national competition I have been able to stage reasonable exhibits in the nine-vase, six-vase andthree-vase classes and have never been without a ticket. The number of plants [ have grown for exhibition has varied between 450 and 500 and some of the earlier seasons have seen me in the nine large and nine medium at London and the nine large and six medium at Harrogate, plus all the local shows.
[ have always believed that if one s cultivation is reasonable it is far better to grow a large number of a select few cultivars than only a few of a wide range of cultivars. On numerous occasions | have been to national shows with over 15 distinct cultivars of large flowered types and have been in the advantageous position of selecting the best nine. It is far better to have a great many to select from than to have to struggle to find that elusive eighth or ninth vase that makes nine-vase exhibiting such a hazardous job. | have known many well-known exhibitors miss out on the day by growing too many of too few cultivars.
The numbers I usually grow vary according to the potential of the cultivar. If|have a dark horse with a chance of a good vase (but I do not feel it is a certainty) [ have grown as few as four plants and if it has done well, I get one vase. But normally, a minimum ofsix of a cultivar with one stopping aimed at the middle.
If have a higher opinion of a particular cultivar a dozen have been grown and stopped in two batches ofsix or even three batches of four. Of the expected reliable ones I grow 15; the maximum number I have ever grown is 24. When you see that a cultivar is having a
bad year (and this, remember, happens quite frequently) you will in all probability not show a vase of that cultivar, and if you have a bed full of, say, 50, you have at least 100 passengers. If it is a good year for the cultivar you will have a good cut from which to select your vase of five. If you are aiming for a single vase class you will probably use all the other 80 or 90 flowers. What other methods can we follow to keep our flowers on the right track if they tend to deviate from the correct timing route? All should be well until the buds come if the correct cultural techniques are practised. But if any checks occur in the early stages of growth the flowering time will be delayed. This again to me is a well-known fact. Vegetative growth may continue when the buds should be coming; this can be caused by too much moisture on the plant in the form of rain, and the effect will be delayed. To counteract this, the covers may be put on to keep the plants dry even if they have to be taken off when the weather changes. How about timing the lates? The large exhibits are treated in much the same way as the earlies in regard to cultivar selection and numbers of the cultivar to be grown. Whatever cultivars you grow the best, those are the ones to treat as bankers. Again, I root all of one cultivar at the same time and stop in batches at intervals. With the lates comes the problem of cultivars which normally come too early on first crown buds, so we have to resort to growing them on second crown. Cultivars such as Edith Woolman and Shirley Primrose are two that are typical. I like to stop the Edith Woolman in early April and then stop again in early June, or, if one has an early garden, a first stop in April followed by a natural break will give a flower about the same time. But if we have a late garden (that is, one that does not get the early morning sun), a natural break would only give us a very short lateral with a later bloom.
One of the principles we have to understand here with lates is the fact that the earlier the bud the greater the petal count, resulting in a larger flower. I have always believed that growing on second crown reduces petal count and if [ am growing a flower that has too many petals in its make-up it is second crown for me. [ used to find (and still do) that some incurves which have a tendency to go off at the bottom before they are up in the middle are far better on second crown, for by taking away the petal the bloom reaches maturity and finishes on top before there are any signs of staleness below.
If we wish to bring a latish flowering late (or even an early) [ am often tempted to grow on the break bud. This means a later than normal rooting and growing on until the first bud appears. Take this bud and flower it. Many a time I have grown James Bryant and Keith Luxford by this method. Rooting has to be about early to mid-March instead of December.
Remember, timing is over half the battle in having chrysanthemums on the show bench on the right day. Do not be tempted to criticize the winner if you cannot get your blooms there. Remember the good old Yorkshire phrase, Put up or shut up .
Mr. Brooks is one of the world sforemost growers and exhibitors ofearly and late flowering chrysanthemums. He lives near Harrogate, Yorkshire, England.
PEFFERLAW PEAT COMPOSTED MANURE/ PEAT MIX
The ideal soil mix correctly balanced to fill the needs of all growing plants indoors or out.
G. T. STRAIN & SON
Cannington, Ont. Phone (Toronto) 364-6068
The Canadian Chrysanthemum and Dahlia Society Presents International 77 Flower Show
A Wintario project
September 7 and 18, 1977
The Civic Goiden Centre Edwards Gardens, Toronto, Ontario
To be opened by The Honourable Pauline M. McGibbon, Lieutenant Governor of Ontario at 2 p.m., Saturday, September 17, 1977
CHRYSANTHEMUM TROPHIES AND PRIZES
Harry Firth Trophy. co. aie « seid sie iota sinls shia v3 iinsia in siwis lect ore most points in show
Mrs HL Eirth Trophy. oo. os aii ve dine srmeinhs wins most points in novice section
N.C.S. SilverMedal andEntireReproductionsTrophy ............ Best vase of5blooms
Bonar andBemish Trophy and N.C.S. BronzeMedal ............. Best vase of3 blooms
N.C.S:'Cortificate ofMerit... vcs nso dna le sivtrieiviais 003 st vinieinis Best bloom in show
Vaughan NurseriesTrophy ........ovivin eiinerinnienses Best vase of 1 bloom in show
SCS SilverMedal....... 00 ascensiononsBest vase of3 blooms medium
SCS SilverMedal. i. vii aiid so on noha wairisivin sas es Best bloom medium
NIE TT as BE Ce ES a DS Class$
JL TTUTTETTIOPOY + veins tassios ve nase rs in vin vivis nisin niet sissies a mins Class2
SIG CragoTrophy oii. a ts doe say sans en de wa Said nid 0s Class3
Charlie Bedford Memorial TTOphY ....ovvuivs ascii ssc nivies dusnnianiss vvniainioinsts Class 4
MikeRiedyk MemorialTrophy... vc cl ih or es ened a ss Ss ete Class5
1st Prize $1 per bloom
Money Awards
2ndPrize $.75 per bloom
3rdPrize $ .50 per bloom
POMS, SPRAYS AND DECORATIVES EXCLUDED
WELCOME TO INTERNATIONAL 77 FLOWER SHOW
A collection of the finest chrysanthemum and dahlia blooms ever assembled in Canada. Wewish to welcome toToronto visitors from overseas and fromtheUSAandsayapleasant hello to our Canadian friends.
OFFICIALPROGRAM
FRIDAY,SEPTEMBER 16
All day and night set up and staging. Members and exhibitors only.
SATURDAY,SEPTEMBER 17
9:30 a.m. Exhibitors leave hall
10 a.m.-1 p.m. Judging
2 p.m. Official opening by the Honourable Pauline M. McGibbon, Lieutenant Governor ofOntario
3pm. Chrysanthemum lecture (Panel following)
4 p.m. Dahlia lecture (Panel following)
8 p.m.
Decorative lectures will be given at 1 p.m., 2 p.m. and3 p.m.
Official banquet at theChelsealnn.M.C. willbeJohnBradshaw, Canada s most listened-to horticultural broadcaster. Presentation of awards.
SUNDAY,SEPTEMBER 18
10 a.m. Show reopens
1pm. Chrysanthemum lecture (Panel following)
2 p.m. Dahlia lecture (Panel following)
Decorative lectures will be given at 1 p.m.,2 p.m. and 3 p.m.
4:30 p.m. Show closes and blooms are auctioned
Chrysanthemum and dahlia lecturers are by specially invited guests of international repute from the UnitedKingdom.
The decorative demonstrations are beinggiven by members of: Toronto Garden Club
Milne House Garden Club
Japanese Garden Club ofToronto
SALE OF BLOOMS AFTER 4 P.M. SUNDAY
Chrysanthemums
Classes
Class
1. 3 vases, 3 distinct cultivars,5 blooms, large flowered, one variety in each vase
2. 3 vases,2 distinct cultivars,3 blooms,large flowered, one variety in each vase
3. 2 vases,2 distinct cultivars,3 blooms, large flowered, one variety in each vase
4. 3 vases, mediums, 3 distinct cultivars, 3 blooms, one variety in each vase
5. 1 vase, 5 blooms, large, one cultivar
Large Flowered Incurve 23A
6. 1 vase, 3 blooms, one or more varieties
7. 1 vase, 1 bloom, white
8. 1 vase, 1 bloom, excluding white
Large Flowered Reflex24A
9. 1 vase, 3 blooms, one or more varieties
10. 1 vase, one bloom
Large FloweredIntermediate 25A
11. 1 vase, 3 blooms or more varieties
12. 1 vase, one bloom
Large Flowered23A,24A,25A
. 1 vase, 5 blooms mixed
> 1 vase, 3 blooms white or cream
15. 1 vase, 3 blooms yellow, one cultivar
16. 1 vase, 3 blooms pink salmon, one cultivar
17. 1 vase, 3 blooms bronze, light bronze, one cultivar
18. 1 vase, 3 blooms red, one cultivar
19. 1 vase, 3 blooms purple one cultivar
Medium Flowered23B, 24B,25B
20. 2 vases, 2 distinct cultivars, 3 blooms medium, one variety in each vase
21. 1vase, 3 blooms, one or more varieties, 23B
22. 1 vase, one bloom23B
23. 1 vase, 3 blooms 24B
24. 1 vase, one bloom24B
25. 1 vase, 3 blooms, 25B
26. 1 vase, one bloom25B
27. 1vase, 5 blooms, medium flowered, 2 or more varieties
Super GiantsSection 16
28. 1 vase, 3 blooms, one or more varieties
29. 1 vase, one bloom
SprayVarieties28 and29
30. 1 vase, Koreans or other types, 3 sprays per vaseSection29
31. 1vase, 3 sprays pom poms, Section 28
32. 1 vase, 3 sprays white
33. 1vase, 3 sprays yellow
34. 1 vase, 3 sprays pink or purple
35. 1 vase, 3 sprays bronze or red
Spidery, Feathery, Rayonantes
Section30
36. 1 vase, one bloom
37. 1 vase, three blooms
Novice Class
38. 1 vase, 5 blooms, one or more varieties, large flowered, 23A, 24A, 25A
39. 1 vase, 3 blooms, one or more varieties, large flowered, 23A, 24A, 25A
40. 1 vase, 1 bloom, large flowered, 23A, 24A,25A
41. 1 vase, 3 blooms, medium flowered, 23B, 24B, 25B
BigThree Championship Giant decorative or giant cactus or semi-cactus 3 giants in3 vases
Championship: Charlie Thorne Memorial Trophy& Rossette
Section 1 Giant orLarge Decorative 1 Bloom
Class 1 light blend or dark blend
Class 2 white or yellow
Class 3 red or dark red
Class 4 purple or lavender
Class 5 orange or bronze
Class 6 pink or flame
Class 7 bi-colour or variegated
Section 1 Champion Ian Martin
AssociatesAward
Section2 Giant or Large Cactus or Semi-Cactus 1 Bloom
Class 8 light blend or dark blend
Class 9 white or yellow
Class 10 red or dark red
Class 11 purple or lavender
Class 12 orange or bronze
Class 13 pink or flame
Class 14 bi-colour orvariegated
Section2 Champion
D. M. Clarke Trophy
Section3 MediumDecorative 1 Bloom
Class 15 light blend or dark blend
Class 16 white or yellow
Class 17 red or dark red
Class 18 purple or lavender
Class 19 orange or bronze
Class20 pink or flame
Class21 bi-colour orvariegated
Section3 Champion
W.S. Donald MemorialTrophy
Section4 Medium Cactus or Semi-Cactus 1 Bloom
Class22 light blend or dark blend
Class23 white or yellow
Class24 red or dark red
Class25 purple or lavender
Class 26 orange or bronze
Class27 pink or flame
Class28 bi-colour or variegated
Section4 Champion
Aldo BoniniTrophy
Section5 Medium Decorative
Cactus orSemi-Cactus 3 blooms
Class29 light blend or dark blend
Class30 white or yellow
Class31 red or dark red
Class 32 purple or lavender
Class33 orange or bronze
Class 34 pink or flame
Class35 bi-colour or variegated
Section 5 Champion Bill Muir Trophy
Section6 Small Decorative 1 Bloom
Class36 light blend or dark blend
Class 37 white to yellow
Class38 red or dark red
Class39 purple or lavender
Class40 orange or bronze
Class41 pink or flame
Class 42 bi-colour or variegated
Section6 Champion IslayTrophy
Section7 SmallCactus orSemi-Cactus 1 Bloom
Class43 light blend or dark blend
Class44 white or yellow
Class45 red or dark red
Class46 purple or lavender
Class47 orange or bronze
Class48 pink or flame
Class49 bi-colour or variegated
Section 7 Champion
OscarStephenson Plaque
Section8 Small Decoratives
3 Blooms
Class50 light blend or dark blend
Class51 white or yellow A .
Class52 redordark red 0 \
Class 53 purple or lavender
Class 54 orange or bronze i
Class 55 pinkor flame
Class56 bi-colouror variegated
Section8 Champion
CarlWimmiTrophy
Section9 SmallCactus or Semi-Cactus
3 Blooms
Class57 light blend or dark blend
Class58 white oryellow
Class59 red ordark red
Class60 purpleor lavender
Class61 orange or bronze
Class65 1 vase pom-pom one or more varieties
Class66 1 vase miniature one or more varieties
Section 10 Champion
HowcoService CentreTrophy
Section 11 Novice
Class67 1 decorative giant or large
Class68 1 cactus or semi-cactus giant or large
Class69
Class 70
Class 71
1 decorative medium 1 cactus or semi-cactus medium
1 decorative small
Class 72 1 cactus or semi-cactus small
Class 73 3 poms or 3 balls or3miniature
Novice Champion
~ OliverClubineTrophy
Section 12 Junior
Class 75
Class76
Class 74 1 bloom large, decorative, cactusor semi-cactus bloom medium, decorative, actus or semi-cactus bloom small, decorativeorcactus, o miniature
Section12 Che
Dahlia Awards
NationalDahliaS
BestBloomAwar
Rosette Ba
Class63 bi-colour or variegated
Section9 Champion
ArtSimpsonTrophy
Section 10 5 Blooms
Class64 1 vase ball dahlias one or more
Class62 pink or flame varieties
INTERNATIONAL 1977 SCHEDULE
September 17 & 18
£ Etobicoke BluePrintTrophy agg atonAward Most ts 3 CCDS. tTare awarded for each section %
N.B. BIG THREE CHAMPIONSHIP CLASS ISNOT INCLUDED IN AWARDS FOR BEST EXHIBITOR BEST BLOOM
Chrysanthemums three vases of 5 for C.C.D.S. InternationalAward
Dahlias two vases of3 small cactus or semi-cactus and/or small decorative two vases 3 medium cactus or semi-cactus and/or medium decorative
Class1 Welcome to Canada a design to include Canadiana
Class2 Friendship through Flowers using more than one container. Award.
This is the special class for international entries and the C.C.D.S. International
Class3 manner
Class4
Japanese CentennialYear 100 years in Canada, arrangement in the Japanese
Let s GetTogether an arrangement for a party table name the occasion.
Class5 Floral Extravaganza a mass design
Class6 Harvest: aTime forGivingThanks using flowers, fruit and vegetables
Class7 Winter is Coming your own interpretation
Class8 Looking Forward new trends
There will be an award for the first place entry in each class.
Book now for Flower Arranging Courses byEiaing
Classes in flower arranging taught by graduates from an intensive judges courses have been scheduled for September, October and November. They'll be held in the Centre s new teaching studios.
If you have never taken flower arranging before, come and let Betty Ewens guide you through the basic course. It starts on September 15 and will last for six Thursday afternoons or evenings. (If there is a great enough demand for places in the basic course, we may be able to offer instruction on Wednesdays as well.)
For those of you who have already had lessons, Course Il will be given by Marjorie Ferris under the theme contemporary design .
Classes will begin on September 28 and will be held for three consecutive Wednesdays, 10 a.m. until 3 p.m.
Have you ever thought about doing Japanese flower arranging? Have you hesitated because you
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HANDICRAFTED ITEMS FOR SALE ALL YEAR ROUND
felt you didn t know enough about design or choosing flowers and branches? If so, why not try the course starting October 19? It will run for three consecutive Wednesdays from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. under the direction of Mrs. Kadoguchi, an outstanding teacher who, during October 1976, attained her Sokatoku degree in Kyoto, Japan. (Sokatoku is senior professor of Ikebana, 1st grade the Ikenobo School s highest certificated professional grade.) Mrs. Kadoguchi, with Ella Irving assisting, will provide branches and flowers suitable for the style of arrangement being taught for a very nominal fee (about $2 a day).
In early November, Beth Frost will teach Christmas arrangements. (More details about this course will be given later.)
Class numbers for all these courses will be limited, so to avoid disappointment, act now and dial 445-1552/3 to make your booking.
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Designed to give maximum light transmission. More sunlight means more growing power
® Strong aluminum frame that requires no main tenance
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Free colour catalogues available from VANHOF & BLOKKER LIMITED, 1773 Mattawa Ave., Mississauga, Ont. L4X 1K5
CHRIS CATERING
Having a party? Be your own guest!
COMPLETE CATERING ARRANGEMENTS FOR ALL OCCASIONS
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ServingToronto, Scarorough, Ajax, Oshawa, Whitby, Pickering, Brooklinand Vicinity Your Host: Chris 683-7891
For Quality, Fair Prices visit a Sheridan Garden Centre
Unionville
LONGACRES GARDEN CENTRE
4077 Hwy. #7, Unionville, L3R 1L5
Phone 297-2253
Herman Loeven, Manager
North Toronto
GLENPARK GARDEN CENTRE 2827 Yonge Street, Toronto, M4N 2J4
Phone 481-6429
Lou Sato, Manager
Etobicoke
SHERWAY GARDEN CENTRE
700 Evans Avenue, Etobicoke, M9C 1A1
Phone 621-9100
Uli Rumpf, Manager Mississauga, L5J 2Y4
Mississauga
SOUTHDOWN GARDEN CENTRE 606 Southdown Rd., Mississauga, L5J 3X9
