The CIL Golfgreen Lawn Program
By George R. Blais
Partll
Last month we discussed a total plant food or nutrient program for your lawn for the whole season that is about 30 Ib. per 1,000 sq. ft. of an 18-6-9 plus a CIL Winterizer application of 10 Ib. per 1,000 sq. ft. of 6-12-24 in late fall.
While the S.C.U.® base in CIL Golfgreen 18-6-9 is so safe that you could apply it all at one time, we also recognized the fact that almost everyone at one time or another runs into externally influenced problems like crabgrass, Poa annua, and broadleaved weeds not to forget insects and diseases. Thus we provided for three split applications of 10 Ib. each to permit your including an insecticide or herbicide with your fertilizer at the proper time ofyear.
Soon, the broadleaved weeds will be showing their first leaves and it will be timely to go after them while they are still young and susceptible with CIL Lawn Weed Doctor. Your lawn could certainly use the plant food at this time to keep it growing actively and to stop it from going to sleep in the hot weather to come.
Even if you don t have weeds you should be on the lookout for insects which become active as soon as the soil and air temperatures rise. Grubs of all sizes will start moving up to the surface roots as soon as the soil reachers 18°C and Chinch Bugs or Lawn Moths will become active at the 24° C mark.
At the first sign of insect activity you can apply CIL Lawn Insect Doctor. Just note that for grubs and Chinch Bug the lawn should be thoroughly watered, then apply the treatment and follow up with another watering to move the insecticide down into the soil where it can do itsjob. For Lawn Moth leave it on the surface for two orthree days.
In August, after the lawn has been struggling with the heat, it will need another application of CIL Golfgreen to help it replace roots and crowns. Watch closely for fall germinating weeds like Chickweed and Dandelion. If weeds show at this time then substitute CIL Lawn Weed Doctor for the CIL Golfgreen and you control your problems without disturbing the nutrient levels.
July 1978
Volume 5, Number 4
In this issue
Cover photo of rose Tropicana by Betty Greenacre, internationally recognized nature and pictorial photographer.
Annual Report/5
The Iris Rainbow Spectrum/6
Precocious, Charming and Petite/8
Bellevue House and Gardens/12
Programme Schedule July-December/15
Summer Patio Party/21
Pansy ImperialBlue/22
Exhibiting Miniature Roses/26
Publication Committee
James Floyd (Chairman), Jerry MacCabe, Clive E. Goodwin.
Editor: Fredrik Kirby
Graphics and Printing
Drewmark Graphics, Toronto
General lnformatlon
ISSN 0380-1470
Trellisis publishedin the monthsofJanuary, March, May, July, September, and November and distributed on or about the 15th of the month previous by the Civic Garden Centre, 777 Lawrence Avenue East, Don Mills, Ontario M3C 1P2. The Centre is located in Edwards Gardens, at Leslie Street and Lawrence Avenue East, the geographical centre of Metropolitan Toronto. It is a non-profit gardening and floral arts information organization with open membership. Subscriptions to Trellis are only available through Centre membership ($10 per year). Opinions expressed within do not necessarily reflect those of the Centre.
For ideas . . . inspiration . . . iInformation. . join
The CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE
How to keep houseplants happy? Gardens glowing? Shrubs scintillating? Lawns luxurious? Join us and find out all this and more. At The Civic Garden Centre you ll be among friends, people who share the same interests you do in gardening and horticultural things.
As a Civic Garden Centre member, you enjoy free borrowing privileges in the new Horticultural Library s over 3,000 gardening books. You save 10% on purchases in the new Garden and Book Shops, over $2. You enroll in members only special horticultural and flower arrangingclasses. Trellis magazine will be mailed to your home every two months.
Care for more details? Call 445-1552 now.
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I wish to become a member as indiciated above and enclose my cheque for $_______. O Please accept the additional amount as a donation to the work ofThe Civic GardenCentre whichyou will acknowledge with an official receipt for income tax purposes (Reg. No. 0228114-56-13). (6)
THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE
The Year in Review
Chairman Grant Ross in his Annual Report looked back at a difficult but successful year, and thanked all members for their support and hard work during the periods of staff and building changes.
The deficit-of$9578. on the year s operation was an improvement on last year. Capital contributions from the Dunington Grubb Foundation and interest from the funds held in trust aided the year s operations, but the Centre s financial position still must be improved and increases in memberships and additional donations are urgently needed.
Mr. Ross reviewed some ofthe successful programmes in the past year, and said that the Centre looked forward to an even more vigorous year in 1978.
Copies of the audited financial statements are available on request.
The Iris Rainbow Spectrum
by John McMillen
Its beginnings lost in the mists of Mount Olympus where in Greek mythology Iris was Goddess of the Rainbow and special messenger to Hera, Queen ofthe Gods; through Roman mythology; French history (fleur-de-lis), on royal banners and coats-of-arms, hence the term flag ; the Iris was made official flower of Italy (1272). The Aril iris, native to the Holy Land, was probably the Biblical reference, the lilies of the field .
The genusIris is native to almost every country in the northern hemisphere and comprises over 200 species. Iris vary in size from one-inch flowers of some miniature dwarfs to an eight-inch diameter in the Japanese variety. It grows from two inches to five feet high, depending on the species. The colour range is endless a complete spectrum at your doorstep.
The bloom season in southern Ontario begins about the first week in Winner s Circle
May depending on the season. The Miniature Dwarf Bearded (MDB) bloom first, followed by the Intermediates (IB), the Border Bearded (BB) and the Tall Bearded (TB) blooming until about the first of July in a normal season. All these groups are the bearded type and bloom overlaps so there is always something blooming. In the beardless types, the Siberian bloom with the TB and in early July the Spurias send forth their majestic bloom for another marvelous display of colour.
The Louisiana Species are supposedly hardy in our type of climate and are now being tested by a few growers. Some Japanese are also grown but need special culture.
The variable climatic conditions in Canada make cultural instructions difficult. However, the following are basic guidelines.
BEARDED IRIS
They prefer a sunny dry location and will adapt to almost any type of soil. If possible, prepare the location in advance, working in humus, well rotted manure and fertilizer. emphasize well rotted because the bacteria that rot manure will also tend to create bacterial soft rot in the iris. Do not plant too close to other plants or to each other. Plant rhizomes about 18 apart.
PLANT NOW
When planting, dig two slanting holes with a ridge in the middle. Place the rhizome on the ridge, spreading the roots on either side. Pull the dirt in, press firmly and water, making sure the top of the rhizome is slightly above ground level. Ideal planting time is midJuly to early September. Earlier plantings will reduce the following season s bloom and if planted later
they will not be fully established before winter, increasing the chances of winter Kill. Iris must be replanted every three or four years to ensure vigorous growth and large healthy flower stalks. Any fertilizer to be used must be a low analyis nitrogen and must not come in contact with the rhizome.
Beds must be kept weed free. Iris roots arejust below the surface so cultivate shallowly. Herbicides are available but must not be used by amateurs.
Cleanliness is a must for disease and insect control. All dead leaves must be cleaned out and destroyed in the spring. The eggs of the iris borer are laid on the leaves in late fall and this practice destroys the eggs as well as some ofthe spores causing leaf spot. It also lets the sun and air dry out the rhizome reducing the chances of bacterial soft rot. After flowering, all bloom stalks must be removed as well as all dead and badly diseased leaves.
Iris borer is the main insect enemy. It hatches in early to mid May; it crawls to the top of the fan and slowly bores its way through the heart and the rhizome, emerging in late July as a 1 long cream-coloured larva with a brown head. The borer is easily controlled with cygon 2E spray when the fans are three to four inches high and again when they re 6 to 7 inches high.
Diseases in iris are few but some can be devastating if not controlled.
Bacterial soft rot: a soft mushy rot with a very strong offensive odour; caused by too much moisture, too rich and lush a growth (too much N) or untidiness. The rot can be cut off and dusted with captan, or if severe, the whole rhizome may be dug, cleaned and left in a dry location for one to two weeks. This is hard on the plant but it s better than losing it completely.
Botrytis fungus rot: a dry spongy rot with no odour; it has a grey spore mass on therhizomeatgroundlevel occurring in late winter and early spring. Dig and
Continued on page 20
The peat mossyou're looking atis So-Green' s concentratedpeat moss. Ifit were moistened, it would cover this hand. But without that moisture, it's one-quarter the work to carry, store and spread, because it's one-quarterthe size. Thisyear, thebignewsinpeat moss is quite small.
' Precacs, Charming and Petite
byJune Laver
Have you ever taken the time to carefully examine a Miniature rose? Have you seen the many tiny branches all arranged in perfect size and balance? Have you noticed their tiny pointed leaves, each finely cut as if done with dimunitive pinking shears? If you took a reading glass you would see details such as delicate veining and colouring of leaves and petals, soft hairs on the stem, and the tiny stamens and pistils.(You might even catch a bug or two and get a head start on controlling the intruders.) Theirs is a marvel of balance, of colours and blends, of textures and subtle difference in shape and form. Just about any time you may be thinking of Miniature roses is the proper time to plant and to grow them.
Of course, in the wintertime it is a little more difficult but certainly not impossible to have them grow and bloom for you inside either under lights or wherever you find they will grow best in your home. Growing Miniature roses depends greatly on a state of mind . . . if you believe in them . . . you can grow them.
THE NUMBER OF KINDS OF PRESENT DAY MINIATURES has been greatly expanded through hybridizing. Plant habits, size, shape and texture of flowers, foliage, colours and flower forms are so diverse it is difficult to pin them down to an overall description.
THE OLD FASHIONED STYLES look like small old-fashioned shrub
roses or early rose hybrids as seen in Pierre Joseph Redoute paintings Pompon de Paris 1839 and WhiteGem.
MOSS MINIATURES grow with fine soft hairs thickly covering buds and stems giving the appearance of delicate green moss. Naturally fragrant plant oils give moss roses a special fresh scent Kara, Little Liza, Fairy Moss.
FLORIBUNDA STYLES are covered with clusters of flowers throughout the growing season Baby Masquerade, Cinderella.
HYBRID TEA FORMS are those with blooms that are tiny duplicates of perfectly formed hybrid teas Baby Betsy McCall, Beauty Secret, Judy Fischer.
SPECIAL MINIATURE FORMS are those that do not fit into any of the above categories but are unique because oftheir unusual form, striking colour contrasts or for their fantastic production of blooms - Anytime, Stars n Stripes, Woman s Own.
MICRO MINIS are the most elfin of all growing no bigger than 8-10 with blooms from 15 to 1% in diameter Bo-Peep, Little Linda, Si.
CLIMBERS such as Hi Ho and Climbing Baby Darling and those that perform well as BASKET PLANTS such as Green Ice and Red Cascade complete the group.
AWARDS OF EXCELLENCE for Miniature roses have been designated for the following miniature roses that have been tested for the past three years in three miniature test gardens in different parts of the United States.
BEAUTY SECRET
MAGIC CARROUSEL
SHERI ANNE
WHITE ANGEL
PEACHES N CREAM
JUDY FISCHER
MARY MARSHALL
STARGLO
RED CASCADE
JEANNE LAJOIE
LAVENDER LACE OVER
THE RAINBOW TOY CLOWN
HULA
GIRL
PEACHY WHITE
Varieties introduced prior to 1965 were not eligible for testing and only those that met their required high standards have been so awarded.
A BROAD DEFINITION OF THE MINIATURE CLASS: low growing plants, generally under 1 but heights up to 18 are permissible on some cultivars. Generally the stems are thin and wiry and have short internodes. Foliage is small and proportionate to a small flower size. Leaves have 3 to 5 leaflets averaging % wide and %" long. Flowers may be single or double and less than 1% in diameter but there are those with 2 flowers and for these there should really be a separate class when exhibiting in specialized shows. They are borne singly or in small terminal clusters not exceeding 10 buds and flowers.
PLANTING OUTDOORS
With strong light, abundant water, and fertile soil your Miniature roses will produce prize blooms in quantities sufficient for cutting and garden decoration as well. Best results, of course, are usually obtained when the soil is loose and friable and the humus content is adequate. The planting area or bed should be prepared to a depth of 12 . Set the plant half an inch deeper than it grew in the pot, spacing plants about 12 apart. Very little nutrient should be added if small-scale plants are desired. As shade increases, the floral show will gradually decrease until finally the Miniature roses in deep shade hardly bloom at all.
TIERING
If you need a focal point for your small garden or even someplace to plant Minis in a garden already packed full, try tiering. Tiers can be created by the use of corrugated metal or plastic
6 or more in width which comes in rolls and is available in most garden centres. These are easy to work with and inexpensive. Harder to work with initially but longer lasting are bricks, stones or cement blocks held by a cement backing.
Start with a circle or rectangle about 4 across. The top tier should be at least 2 across. Each tier can be 8-12 tall although a good average height is 10 . Sharp drainage on the foundation level must be assured so dig down about 8-10 and inset several inches of coarse gravel or stone. Cover with a humus-peat moss mixture then fill with a good topsoil (equal parts of peat moss, sand and clay). Water and allow to settle for a day. Tamp soil until firm, then set tier number 2 in the center with the base 3-4 deep. Add 2 ofthe humus-peat moss mixture, fill with good topsoil and repeat for each tier.
FEEDING MINIATURE ROSES
Well nourished plants are better able to resist disease and insect damage. Fertilizing by spraying a nutrient solution on the foliage is fast and effective. Never use more than % strength of any recommended fertilizer whether liquid or granular. When iron chlorosis is a problem, add iron chelates to the soil rather than spraying the foliage because in solution where it hits the foliage it remains and does not move through the bush. When vigorous growth is desired fertilize very, very lightly (pot strength) during the growing season, about 4 times a year. For small plants feed only twice a year.
SPRAYING
Even though Miniature roses are remarkably free of pests they may need your help at times. A well nourished plant in a good growing environment is usually a healthy plant. Good air circulation is a natural mildew preventative. Usually the two most troublesome pests are aphids and red spider mites. Control with Malathion or Orthene. Phaltan and/or Benomyl
are controls for blackspot and powdery mildew; however, healthy well-grown plants usually ward offor survive these inroads on their health. The main precaution with spraying or misting is to let foliage dry before nightfall.
GROWING INDOORS
To grow successfully indoors
Miniature roses need light. Either light on a sun porch or in a sunny window or best of all under indoor lights. To heighten humidity which is imperative, set the little pots on trays containing a layer of pebbles or fine gravel, adding water as needed, keeping the water level below the bottoms of the pots. It does help to lightly mist roses with warm water during the day.
INDOOR LIGHT FIXTURES
Miniature roses grow and flower most rapidly with long 12-18 hour days. For average winter flowering set timer to a 14 hour day; however, to obtain maximum growth for seedlings, cuttings or show schedules, give 16-18 hours per 24 hour day. Avoid giving roses 24 hours of continuous light. When new miniatures begin to grow the light must be intense or their stems will be weak and the flowering poor. The lights should be only 3-4 above the foliage. Reflectors set up to 18 above established plants will give considerable improvement to winter growth and flowering.
Check undersides of foliage on indoor grown Minis for signs of spider mites. One of the best methods of keeping insects away is the most simple. Puta little plastic bag around the pot and soil tying with a plastie around the stem, then invert the pot holding the tiny rose under a tap and wash it gently with tepid water.
MAKING CUTTINGS
In the Fall if you want to take cuttings for indoor propagations select a spray which hasjust bloomed. The stem cutting should be about 3-8 long. Cut bottom endsjust below a bud or
bud with branch. Remove the leafjust above the bottom cut but leave on all other foliage. Remove the spent bloom. Dust the bottom inch of each cutting with a rooting hormone, tap off excess powder, make a 1-2 deep hole in a moist propagation mix, insert cutting and firmly press around base. Several cuttings may be placedina 3 or 4 pot if you are only propagating a few.
Once stems are in the mix, cover the whole container with clear plastic. To keep plastic from sticking to the foliage, use 3 or 4 small bamboo stakes, slightly taller than the stems to hold the plastic above. You can easily put awhole pot or small flat directly inside a large plastic food bag. Tie the open end to hold humidity. Many leaves may drop but rooting still continues. Remove fallen leaves. In about 3 weeks all stems should have begun to callus, then form roots. After 6 weeks roots should be seen growing at the bottom of the container and this time the new little plants can be transplanted into individual pots.
WINTER CARE OUTDOORS
Mound with soil about 3-4 . Avoid using peat moss alone for mulching, hilling or mounding because when dry it sheds water and even though the rose tops may not be growing in the winter their roots must still be kept evenly moist. Snow is an excellent winter covering for minis. We have Miniature rose bushes growingin a rockery at our summer home on an island in the Parry Sound South Channel and they come through the winter with no winter covering other than snow. If a bush is healthy below ground, even though it has been winter pruned by mice, or ice, it will resprout with increased vigour in the Spring. If Spring rains are heavy, you may even be able to avoid hosing down the soil mound.
INDOOR FORCING
Although Miniature roses will actually live and bloom without a cool 6
to 8 week dormancy in late Fall and Winter their indoor display is more floriferous and the bushes easier to keep compact with a dormant period just before indoor forcing. It is best to rest your own bushes dug up from outdoors or larger new ones received in full leaf after the growing season, outdoors. Set the pots in a cold frame if you have one but keep the top open so bushes do not start new top growth. Newly potted Minis can also be set in flats. Keep the soil moist and cover the root zone with moist sand or peat moss when temperatures begin to go below freezing. A makeshift cold frame can be created from a big crate inverted over the Minis with the bottom removed and replaced with a plastic film or an old storm window . . . this will let in light but protect bushes from hard freezing and drying winds, at least through the early winter.
Water newly potted bushes with a solution ofweak low-nitrogen fertilizer and a root stimulant such as Upstart. At this time you may add a teaspoon of aniron chelate to the solution such as Green Garde to prevent iron chlorosis. Remember if you are leaving the bushes outside until December, to be sure the pots are buried in sand or peat moss and covered with dry leaves or other light protection. Even if the peat moss freezes partially you will be able to get the pots free to move indoors. Spray with an all purpose insecticide and fungicide combination an hour or so before the plants are transferred indoors. If it is too cold for spraying outdoors, spray in a well-ventilated garage or cellar. The first flush of flowers after they are brought indoors will appear in six to eight weeks from the time the bushes start into growth.
MINIATURES ARE FOR GIVING. A good thing to remember the next time you want to give something for a birthday or an anniversary present to friends or relatives who have everything. When you want to say THANK YOU' why not let a dear little Miniature rose in a tiny pot do it for you.
Bellevue House and Gardeps ..........
Bellevue House, now a national historic park, was built between 1838 and 1840 by Charles Hales, a prosperous merchant. Kingston was booming with fine limestone buildings at that time. Hales wanted to be noticeably different and had his house built in the style of an Italian Villa . This handsomely ornate structure was erected just outside the urban centre of Kingston.
Hales rented out his villa when Kingston became the capital of Canada (1841). Affluence and a demand for housing prevailed at that time. After the capital moved to Montreal (1844), Kingston became financially depressed and Hales continued to lease his villa out of necessity.
John Alexander Macdonald, an aspiring thirty-three year old lawyer in Kingston had been spending considerable amounts of time, concern and funds in an attempt to cure his ailing wife, Isabella. This cure required her to be away from him for long periods. In order to have her by his side and to improve his image in an emerging political career, he rented Charles Hales furnished Italian Villa . The country air had been recommended for Isabella s health. Shortly after moving into Bellevue House in 1848, their one year old son, John Jr., died and after only thirteen months in residence, due to financial difficulties, the Macdonalds moved back into modest accommodations in Kingston.
In the early 1960 s, itwas decided that Bellevue House (the name given Hales Italian Villa by John A. Macdonald) should be preserved as a national historic site. Among the
reasons which led to this decision was the fact that it was the most unusual residence of John A. Macdonald in the Kingston area and it was an extremely fine example of Italianate architecture in Canada.
After a period of detailed restoration work, the house was opened to the public in Canada s centennial year. The house was restored to the period 1848-1849 when John A. Macdonald lived there. It is open year round and is operated as a responsibility ofParks Canada of the Department of Indian and Northern Affairs.
To complete the total environmental picture of the mid-eighteen hundreds at Bellevue, the grounds and gardens would next have to be restored.
Historic grounds restoration was a . relatively new venture in Canada. There had been work done on creating new sites to resemble typical period settings but as far as is known, nothing where a specific site was to be regressed in years to its earlier existence. It would be essential that detailed research be executed and then transposed into blueprints which could be interpreted and implemented by today s tradespeople.
A landscape architect of Parks Canada specializing in period restoration, carried out this project and its associated research.
An early municipal map clearly defined the carriageway, paths, fences, gardens, well and out buildings of Bellevue. Also a leaseholder of the house in the early part of this century unintentionally documented fence styles and some plant material in a homemade motion picture. Personal correspondence and newspaper clippings further aided in the
identification of Bellevue s former environment. In a more general manner, it was evident that there was a strong influence of the English-trained gardener and of the New York State landscape gardener, Downing, on the Kingston horticultural scene. Local nursery catalogues or advertisements listed plants which were available at the time, some in prolific quantities unheard of today, e.g., over one hundred varieties of apple. The superintendent of Bellevue House also imparted information in the formulation of the restoration plans as only someone very familiar with the site, its surroundings and the traffic patterns imposed on a now urban setting, could do.
In the fall of 1975, the grounds of Bellevue House entered the first physical stages of restoration. Pathways and the carriageway were restored to their original texture and shape. A curving carriage approach to Bellevue, surfaced with smooth pebbles and connected to a service lane for the coach house and rear, house entrance was a typical Downing treatment of a suburban villa . The pebbled paths were all edged with limestone slabs on edge, whether they were in the vegetable garden or in the formal grounds for entertaining. A decorative open-slat fence with
imposing gateways again assisted in giving privacy from the rutted public access to the west. Between the orchard and service lane, a lattice fence returned to fulfill its former function of a screen. Elsewhere the fences were of solid board construction, around the vegetable garden to keep out wandering livestock and adjacent the service yard for visual purposes. The lacy looking gazebo returned, a few yards from its original site, under an imposing oak which would have been a mature tree in Macdonald s day. (The original site of the gazebo is not in the ownership of Parks Canada.) The privy was another edifice which had to be recreated but it stands on its original site. The roof and fascia ofboth the privy and the gazebo are in keeping with certain motifs of the main house.
When it came to selecting plant material, it was not difficult to find lists of plants which were available and in use during Macdonald s occupancy of Bellevue House. Today, it creates an endless hunt to find plants which agree with those old lists in generic, specific and varietal names. Many plants have been hybridized and their ancestors long since discarded. This applies more to annual flowers and vegetables than to perennials. The period plants are usually inferior by today s standard but their difference accentuates the changes in horticulture over the years. The restoration of trees and shrubs to the site has not encountered the difficulties which were incurred with annual flowers.
The orchard is still awaiting fruit trees which had to be tailored to the period. Many of the fruit varieties of Macdonald s time are still available today, but they are grafted on modern understocks. The small orchard was located between the house and the street. It was not the intent of the villa s owner to have his abode on display to those who passed by on the public road; consequently the fence and
orchard gave privacy to Bellevue. Those who were invited guests were entertained and impressed in the formal gardens on the side of the house away from the street. Visitors today are usually curious about the long meadow grass in the orchard, a distinct contrast to the contemporary turf areas along our urban streets.
In the ensuing years after Macdonald s departure from Bellevue, numerous trees have been planted, some of which are not suitable to the restoration period. Their elimination would be detrimental to the general landscape and this has resulted in some specimens being left. An example is the exceptionally large Japanese Tree Lilac (Syringa amurensis Japonica) which wasn t introduced into Canada until after the Macdonald s residency had terminated. There are a number of old trees which would have been on the property for John A. to admire (his correspondence notes that he was impressed by the trees). These include Bitternut and Shagbark Hickory (Carya cordiformis and ovata) and Red Oak (Quercus rubra).
The intention of this restoration of the gardens is to allow the visitor to realize the total picture of how things were for the affluent in the mid nineteenth century. In order to accomplish this, twentieth century technology is employed. Behind the scenes and outside visiting hours, underground irrigation, power tillers, power mowers and trimmers are used, not with the intention of being deceptive but to make the operation feasible within a reasonable budget. In keeping with Macdonald s time are the plants (subject to the endless search mentioned previously), the fertilizers (bone meal, hoof and horn meal and dried blood), insect and disease repellents (wood ashes, salt, bone meal etc.) and the tools used during visiting hours.
The vegetable garden was the most changing and active area on the grounds during the growing season.
Today, it once again duplicates that role. Every day something new is patiently being seeded, groomed or harvested. This garden would not have supplied all of the villa s year round needs, but it would have satisfied most of the fresh vegetable requirements plus a small amount for winter storage.
The attempt to be authentic in plant varieties is always paramount in planting the garden. In each succeeding year, new plant sources are discovered and the period plant collection is slowly increased. Where modern hybrids must be used, while waiting for a historically correct plant to show up, a mixture of plants might be used, i.e., several varieties of cabbages planted in one row. Hybridization has produced uniformity, this mixture of cabbage plants brings back the visual concept of variation within one plant variety. Seed saving from F, generation hybrids is another way to plant variations. The wide herb collection is almost entirely true to the mid eighteen hundreds. :
Today s visitor may be offered a raw carrot, bean or radish to be washed in the rain barrel and eaten on the spot. Smelling the aromatic herbs is encouraged by the garden staff. Produce of the garden may also be seen and sampled in the kitchen.
Other differences from the modern garden include; tobacco being cultivated for the master, seven foot bean plants wrapped on a tripod of tree branches, tired old plant labels with a fresh layer of whitewash over last years inscription, mistreating celery in order that it might be blanched (hilled up with soil to make the stalks white) or pumpkin vines romping through the corn patch.
Flowers for cutting and tender fruits also abide in the vegetable garden enclosure as do the cold frames where plants get an early start in the spring.
The gardeners, and occasionally maids of the household staff, work on the grounds dressed in appropriate
Continued on page 19
This is your programme for the next 6 months
THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE, EDWARDS GARDENS
777 Lawrence Ave. East, Don Mills M3C 1P2
PROGRAMME SCHEDULE JULY DECEMBER 1978
PROGRAMME SUBJECTTO CHANGE FLOWER SHOWS AND SPECIAL EVENTS
August 12 North Toronto Horticultural Society Show 2:30-9:00 p.m.
August 13 1:00-6:00 p.m.
August 19 Canadian Iris Society, Auction 1:00-4:30 p.m.
September 16 Foreign Bird Society Times to be announced
September 17
September 16 Junior Garden Clubs Show Times to be announced
September 17
September 20 Civic Garden Centre, Members Night 8:00 p.m.
September 23 Canadian Chrysanthemum & Dalhia Society Early Show Times to be announced
September 24
September 28 Cecilia Strings, Concert 8:00 p.m.
September 29 Cecilia Strings, Concert 8:00 p.m.
October 1 Toronto Gesneriad Society Show 2:00-4:00 p.m.
October 7 The Canadian Negro Women s Association 9:00-12:00 a.m.
October 8
October 13 Civic Garden Centre Winter Bouquet and Indoor Plant Sales 10:00-4:00 p.m.
October 14 10:00-4:00 p.m.
October 15 1:00-4:00 p.m.
October 18 Civic Garden Centre, Members Night 8:00 p.m.
October 20 Southern Ontario Orchid Society Show Times to be announced
October 21
October 22
October 28 Canadian Chrysanthemum & Dalhia Society Late Show Times to be announced
October 29
November 15 Civic Garden Centre, Members Night 8:00 p.m.
November 24 Civic Garden Centre Christmas Greens & Sparkle 10:00-4:00 p.m.
November 25 10:00-4:00 p.m.
November 26 1:00-4:00 p.m.
THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE IS OPEN TO THE PUBLIC MONDAY THROUGH SATURDAY 10:00 a.m. to 4 p.m.
SUNDAYS 1 p.m. to 4 p.m.
OPEN EACH WEDNESDAY TILL 9 P.M.
TELEPHONE 445-1552
WORKSHOPS AND COURSES
REGISTRATION IS REQUIRED FOR ALL CLASSES AND WORKSHOPS
Please use the form provided on p. 17 & mail proper remittance WE REGRET NO CONFIRMATION OF REGISTRATION CAN BE SENT
July 12 CREATIVE APPLEDOLLS 6weekcourseon Wednesdays at 1:30 p.m. The use of dried apples to create imaginative & lifelike dolls. Ifenoughinterest isshownafurthercoursemaybe run in the fall.
Fee: $35.00 members, $40.00 non-members
September 8 RUG HOOKING 8 week course on Fridays at 10:00 a.m. The Centre s popular course on this subject will be running again.
Fee: $32.00 members, $36.00 non-members
September 14 NORI-ZOME 10 week course on Thursdays at 1:30 p.m. A second series of this course, dealing with the use of natural dyes in traditional Japanese techniques to dye fabrics.
Fee: $40.00 members, $45.00 non-members
September 18 BOTANICALART 10weekcourseonMondaysat 10:00a.m. This subject has proved a popular one, and a third series of courses are now being offered.
Fee: $40.00 members, $45.00 non-members
September 18 QUILTING 10 week course on Mondays at 1:30 p.m. This course has two instructors and a quilt can be completedin the10 weeks.
Fee: $50.00 members, $55.00 non-members
September 18 NEEDLEPOINT 5 weekcourse onMondaysat 1:00and8:00 p.m. The Beginners needlepoint course will be given in this session.
Fee: $20.00 members, $25.00 non-members
September 19 DECOUPAGE 10weekcourseonTuesdaysat 1:30and7:30 p.m. These courseswill provide studentswiththe full basicson decoupage. Run in conjunction with the Decoupage Guild.
Fee: $40.00 members, $45.00 non-members
WINTER BOUQUET WORKSHOPS
October 23 DRIEDFLOWERS 3sessionsofworkshopsat 1:30and 7:30 p.m.
October 30 PINE CONE CRAFTS 3 sessions of workshops at 1:30and 7:30 p.m.
November 6 PRESSED FLOWERS & CORN HUSK CRAFTS 1:30 and 7:30 p.m.
Fee: $2.50 per session members, $3.00 per session nonmembers
3 Sessions: $7.00 members, $8.50 non-members
JUDGING COURSE FOR FLOWER ARRANGERS
sponsored by The Garden Clubs of Ontario
Prerequisites for entrants ofjudging course which will begin 1980.
1. Two Basic courses in Flower 2. Proofofentry ofFlower ArrangeArranging must have been taken ments in three separate shows. from accreditedjudges ofthe (not necessarily standard shows) Garden Clubs of Ontario. One 3. A written examination based upon Basic course must be taken within the Basic course in Flower the period 1978-80. Arranging must be taken.
FLOWER ARRANGING COURSES
September 11 ORIENTALFLOWERS 3weekcourse, 10:00a.m.-3:00p.m.
Fee: $20.00 members
September 13 BASIC COURSE 1 for beginners, 6weeks, 1:30 & 8:00 p.m.
Fee: $15.00 members
September 20 JAPANESE FLOWER ARRANGING INTERMEDIATE 6 week course
Fee: $40.00 members
October 5 BASIC COURSE 1 forbeginners, 6weeks, 1:30& 8:00 p.m.
Fee: $15.00 members
THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE
777 Lawrence Ave. E., Don Mills, Ontario
NAME (PRINT) MEMBERSHIP & PHONE NO.
ADDRESS CITY, CODE
PLEASE REGISTER ME FOR THE FOLLOWING EVENTS CLASS OR WORKSHOP TIME FEE
O1lwould like to take advantage of reduced rates offered members and enclose $10.00 for my annual fee (add $2.50 for each additional family member) Totalenclosed_
Club and Specialty Group Meetings
*Canadian Chrysanthemum & Dahlia Society: Starts at 8:00 p.m. on: July 27, August 24, September 28, October 26 and November 30.
*Canadian Rose Society: Starts at 8:00 p.m. on: July 20
*Highrise Gardeners of Toronto: Starts at 8:00 p.m. on: September 6, October 4, November 1 and December 6.
*Hobby Greenhouse Group: Starts at 8:00 p.m. on: September 27, October 25 and November 29.
*Indoor Light Gardening Society: Starts at 8:00 p.m. on: September 13, October 11, November 8 and December 13.
Junior Garden Clubs:
*Enthusiasts: 9:45 a.m. to 12:00 noon on: October 21, November 18 and December 16.
*Green Thumbs: 9:45 a.m. to 12:00 noon on: October 14, November 11 and December 2.
*Men s Garden Club: Starts at 8:00 p.m. on: September 5, October 3, November 7 and December 5.
Milne House Garden Club, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. September 19, October 17 and November 21.
*Southern Ontario Orchid Society: 1:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m. on: October 1, November 5 and December 3.
*Toronto Bonsai Society: Starts at 8:00 p.m. on: September 11, October 9, November 13 and December 11.
*Toronto Gesneriad Society: 2:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. on: September 10, October 1, November 12 and December 10.
Other groups meeting at the Centre are the Garden Club of Toronto and the Garden Therapy Group. Non-members are welcomed to meetings of the groups asterisked.
OTHER FALL COURSES AND PROGRAMMES
Starting in October the Centre will be carrying the University of Guelph s popular Introduction to Agriculture Courses. For this series, which includes several mini-courses on subjects such as smallfruits,woodlot management and landscaping the country estate, registration will be handled by the University. Watch the September Trellis for full details of the courses.
The popularseriesofweeklyearly(8:00a.m.)morningbirdwalksrecommence on September 7 and continue as long as the light permits in the mornings.
Watch the Trellis programme section and inserts in coming months for additional events and further details on the ones shown here.
e"e\?ll Cntnuefrom page 14
garb of the period. It would be a normal event for a visitor to encounter the orchard being scythed, raked or the hay being coiled. Upon close examination, the visitor might notice repairs made to the broken rake handle, inlaid wrought iron by a smith totally foreign to twentieth century craftsmanship. The sound of a wheelbarrow struggling along the pebbled way being persuaded on by hob-nailed boots sends its music far across the grounds. Perhaps the visitor might note the maid plucking scarlet runner beans and collecting them in her pinny or the gardener, under his large straw hat, disbudding standard geraniums. Always to be seen is the contrast in the vegetable garden, well kept and weed free on the cultivated side, while across the pathway the long grass and hollyhocks grow in abandon. Another treat might be the sound of violin and recorder drifting out the drawing room window as the ladies of the house practise their music. At Bellevue you really can see, feel and hearthe past.
Russ Ferguson is the gardener at Bellevue House. At Bellevue, it is said, Russ is more than a professional gardener. He is conscious ofthe interpretative themes and research requirements ofthe site.
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Il'lS Continued from page 7
destroy. Leafspot: as the name implies is from spots on leaves. This does no particular harm unless it becomes serious but it is a good idea to keep badly diseased leaves cleaned from edges of fans. This is easily controlled with captan or benomyl. These chemicals may be mixed with cygon when making the two early season sprays. If the leaf spot persists, spray again following bloom. It is important to follow the directions explicitly for all chemicals. In winter if snow cover is adequate, no other cover is needed. If not, wheat straw, pine branches or any other coarse non-packing material may be used. If climate is severe, rhizomes could be covered with soil.
REMONANT OR REBLOOMING IRIS
The culture of the beardless iris differs somewhat from the bearded. They should be transplanted in early spring or late fall and the roots should never be allowed to dry. They like more moisture in the spring but prefer a drying off period after bloom. The moisture is not necessary as they will do well without. They are heavy feeders and perform best in full sun, preferring to remain undisturbed up to 10 years.
Son of Star
There are many of our Tall Bearded Iris that bloom both spring and fall in the south. An increasing number are being bred for northern rebloom. Bloom begins in August and continues until heavy frost.
The culture is very similar to the T.B. except they take more fertilizer and have to be replanted every two years. Some fertilizer should be applied after bloom to encourage growth and rebloom.
If you are interested in further information, the Canadian Iris Society is a non-profit organization whose objective is to encourage, improve and extend the cultivation ofiris. For membership information, write to Mr. Frank Garrity, 152 West 18th Street, Hamilton, Ontario L9C 4GS5.
John McMillen grows 600 varieties of iris on 1% acres. He is a member of the Canadian Iris Society, The American Iris Society, The DwarfIris Society; is a director ofC.I.S. and 2nd vicepresident, Woodstock HorticulturalSociety.
Recommended Varieties page 30
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Summer Patio Party
As told by Chris Christian
On two or three hours notice, four to six guests are arriving this afternoon. What to do? Entertain them on the patio, a corner of the garden, balcony, or other beauty spot. What to serve? Easily prepared finger foods are the answer.
Here are some ideas for tast-tomake tasty tidbits. Generally, allow at least two pieces ofeach finger food per guest. Use ingredients on hand or make a quick trip to the grocery store to augment supplies.
Here s what you need:
® [arge fresh mushroom caps about four per person
® Very lean minced beef
e Celery
e Philadelphia cream cheese
® Crabmeat or lobster paste
® Eggs
® Minute rice
® Crackers
® Assorted garnishes (green pepper)
Here s what to do:
Hard boil 6 to 8 eggs. Remove cream cheese from refrigerator to warm to room temperature.
MUSHROOM DELIGHTS
Two hours before party-time:
® Wash, dry and stem mushrooms. Plunge caps into boiling water so they won t split when stuffing.
® Cook rice to make about half a cup. Season to taste.
e [ightly mix in one egg and enough minced lean beefand rice to make a firm but not dry mixture. (Be sure meat is very lean. Meat that is too fat won t cook. Steak tartare would be perfect.)
® Stuff mixture into mushroom caps. Refrigerate till serving time.
Preheat oven to350°. Put stuffed mushroom caps on cookie sheet and put a dab of melted butter on each.
Heat caps 5 to 10 minutes and serve at once.
Next, shell eggs carefully and cut in half lengthwise.
Remove yolks. Set aside egg halves.
CELERY SAVOURIES
Wash and dry crisp celery stalks and cut into bite size pieces. Stuff celery with your favourite devilled egg mixture. Cover and refrigerate till ready to garnish.
STUFFED EGGS
Mix softened cream cheese with lobster or crabmeat paste.
Pipe into reserved egg halves. Cover and refrigerate.
Pipe any remaining mixture onto crackers.
Now you ve enough for 8 guests. BUT ONE THING MORE. Chris says, People eat with their eyes. Now it s garnish time.
GATHER YOUR GARNISHES
® Harvest from your own garden. . . chives, parsley, cress, herbs, cherry tomatoes, flower petals and leaves.
® Check your refrigerator for orange segments, fresh fruits, celery leaves, green pepper strips; your shelves for black olives, capers, paprika, cocktail onions.
Let your imagination go. Garnish your finger foods and decorate your serving trays as the mood or taste buds command. Make good use of what you already have on hand. Arrange on summery serving trays; use no-care paper plates and napkins. Drink may be tea or coffee, hot or iced, cocktails or lemonade.
(Tip for keeping mushroom caps hot. Arrange caps on a pre-heated tile at serving time.)
Continued on page 23
Pansy Imperial Blue (F, Hybrid)
byE. R. Pope
This outstanding pansy was introduced to the public in 1975, after winning an All America Award in that year.
In the writer s opinion it is the finest pansy produced to date. In spite of this, it is surprising that it is so seldom seen, either in the average garden, or the majority of nurseries, partly no doubt because the cost of the seed is probably higher than any other variety. But the results obtained from well grown plants fully justify the extra cost. The colour is described as a light lavender blue shading to violet at the centre with small bright yellow eye. The visual effect is most pleasing. Its overall superiority is that, not only is it an extremely vigorous plant, with as many as ten to twelve blooms open at one time, but it has extremely longstems for cutting, blooms earlier than most other pansy strains, and is more heat resistant than the older types.
To grow pansies in southern Ontario, the seed should be started on or about July 1st in flats or a cold frame using a rich soil mixture and being careful to water the soil daily until after germination (about seven to ten days). The seed should be covered to a depth of one quarter inch.
By mid-September, the plants should be transplanted eight inches apart, in raised beds, care being taken to water well until they show signs of becoming established. Pansies bloom best in full sun and enjoy cool wet weather.
As soon as the ground has frozen, usually about the third week in November, the plants should be covered with three to four inches of straw. Some of the plants may actually be showing flower buds at the time they are put to bed for the winter.
In the spring, usually about mid April depending on the season, the straw should be removed. Although the uncovered plants may not look too vigorous at that time, an immediate application of soluble fertilizer such as Plant Product, Rapid Grow etc, plus a second one ten days later will work wonders.
Another method for raising pansies,for those who have florescent lights or a greenhouse, is to start the seed inside from December 15th to January 15th at a 70°F temperature providing you can keep them after germination at a 50-60°F temperature, otherwise you will have spindly seedlings. Plants should be planted outdoors where they are to bloom, as soon as the soil can be worked, usually about April 15th. Pansies are not harmed by spring frosts.
Seed planted indoors after January 15th will not bloom until well on in the Summer or Fall, and because they dislike hot weather you will not get the same mass blooming affect obtained in the Spring the natural blooming period for these flowers.
A bed of Imperial Blue Giants in full bloom is a real gardening thrill. Seed Sources C. A. Cruickshank Ltd., Atlee Burpee, George Parks Inc.
Patio Party
Continuedfrom page 21
A large garden party of 30 people or more is something different.
First, Chris suggests, chose a theme for the garden party . . . Caribbean, English, Mexican, old fashioned cocktail party, western, Hawaiian. (Imagine a Hawaiian party. . . the tantalizing aroma, the unmatched flavour of barbecued suckling pig!)
Then invite your guests and enjoy your own party by selecting a caterer who is willing and able to do everything you need. You deal with one organization, usually one person, for the whole party.
Any qualified caterer can supply everything including dishes and silverware, music, serving help for the hostess, and spotless clean-up afterward.
The only job ofthe host and hostess is to enjoy their guests at their own party.
PRUNING SPECIALIST
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TRIANON CATEKRING
Socials ® Meetings ® Shows Call 223-1241 5.00 p.m.-10.00 p.m. Operators of the SNACK BARN Edwards Gardens Open April 15 to October 29
% IS THIS PLACE EVER LARGE! T3 THEY HAVE EVERYTHING INHERE.
Says Connie Poirier /Toronto
Every new visitor to Clargreen becomes a customer because we offer so much... cut flowers, garden supplies, evergreens, rose bushes, shade trees and possibly the largest selection of exotics, herbs, orchids, ferns and bamboos in Ontario.
Come and see us weekdays till 9 p.m. and weekends till 5 p.m. We promise... one trip and you ll be back!
SphagnumMoss for PlantingMix
Sphagnum Moss has many advantages over soil or soil mixes:
1. It is safe and easy to use, odorless, easy to handle. Contains nothing toxic to plant growth.
2. It is pure organic, sterile, free from insects or diseases. You can use it safely, without steam sterilization or chemical additives.
3. It absorbs up to 20 times its own weight in water more than a sponge, yet retains enough air around roots for excellent development.
4. It is long lasting. When dried out after each use, it can be reused over and over again.
5. It contains a natural anti-biotic which wards off most plant diseases.
6. Controlled feeding is possible,
since sphagnum moss contains no plant nutrients and nutrients can be added as required.
7. Root development is tremendous due to easy penetration of the moss fibres.
8. Sphagnum moss is light-weight, easy to handle and cleaner than soil or soil mixes.
Sphagnum moss has other uses as well: it can be used on pot plants or bench crops to control weeds, conserve moisture and control soil temperature. Hanging baskets can be filled with sphagnum to support plants and hold moisture. It is ideal for air layering plant reproduction.
from Under Glass published by Lord& Burnham
CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE FLORAL CRAFTS WORKSHOP
Visit us for unusual all-year-round floral gifts ENQUIRE ABOUT OUR SPECIAL SERVICES
e Custom-made DRIED FLOWER ARRANGEMENTS.
® Preserving WEDDING BOUQUETS, CORSAGES or other SPECIAL FLOWER PIECES.
e FRESH FLOWER BOUQUETS AND ARRANGEMENTS FOR MEMBERS ONLY or FOR FUNCTIONS IN THE C.G.C. BUILDING
JOIN US as a volunteer, and apply your own skills or learn new ones. Our volunteers prepare preserved and fresh floral bouquets and learn associated crafts.
HOURS: 10-4 p.m. weekdays. Some weekends only call ahead.
LUSH GREENERY
Michigan State University researchers have found that small amounts of an alcohol called triacontanol stimulate faster growth in many crops and greatly increase their protein content.
residential landscape design
m. j. stepinac m. e. brennan 482-8395 call evenings 445-4735 students @ landscape architecture university of toronto
Safety with sense
With the new popularity of plants, there has come a considerable increase in sensational headlines on the dangers of poisoning by plants. Most often indicted is the poinsettia, even though tests by several universities have proved that it is not toxic. But numerous other plants, and even ornamentals in general, are being wrongfully accused.
It is true that some plants, such as oleander, castor bean, yew, belladonna and rosary pea, are highly toxic, and others cause reactions from rashes to digestive upsets. Recent tests in which mice were fed massive doses showed varying degrees of toxicity for the prayer plant, peperomia, ornamental pepper, nephthuytis, lily-of-the-valley and nerium, but 36 others tested were exonerated.
Until accurate information is available for many more plants, gardeners and their organizations must recognize a responsibility to educate the public to these safety measures: never eat anything that is unknown to you and impress this rule on all children . . . avoid smoke from burning plant material . . . don t let children use any part of an unknown plant for playthings or for skewers for food. . . call the local Poison Control Center* immediately if a non-food plant material is ingested. from TheAvant Gardener
*HospitalforSick Children in Toronto 597-1500 Toronto East GeneralHospital
White Rose
BNo. 7 Highway East of Woodbine West of Kennedy 297-3330
1306 Kennedy Rd. S. of 401 Highway North of Lawrence 755-5345
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Exbibiting Mipiature Roses
by June Laver
The shows now include special sections for exhibiting Miniature roses since this group of roses has increased more than any other type of rose grown. The classes for Minis are usually divided into single flowers, sprays of several flowers on a single stem, collections and arrangements. Gradually the little roses are gaining an attention equal to that long given to standard sized roses. If exhibiting and transporting Minis to a show here is an easy way. Cut the
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buds or blooms in the evening or other cool time of day. . . plunge each bunch of a variety into tepid water and label. The next step is to roll each variety rather tightly but gently into a sheet of dry newspaper folded in half for double thickness. Hold under running water to thoroughly wet newspaper inside and out. . . drain, squeeze gently and fold up both ends. Two or three of these wet packages may then be rolled inside one or two sheets of dry newspaper to absorb surplus moisture ... fold the ends and place the whole thing inside a plastic bag and close it tightly. This bag and others may then be packed to transport to the show and will arrive garden fresh.
For home decoration and because Minis have a tendency to spring fullblown unawares, it is well to gather them in early stages ofdevelopment to help insure a longer lasting bouquet. Harden the blooms in the refrigerator and they are ready two hours later for serving your purposes. It isn t necessary to be an arranger of note, an expert, an artist. Use the container you prefer and fill it with colourful Minis.
JUDGING
The officialjudging of Miniatures is still not as regimented or precise as that for large hybrid teas because they are new on the show tables. The properjudging of Miniatures is more difficult than the judging of hybrid teas. As Miniatures are small roses, the emphasis is on petiteness rather than the larger the better as for Hybrid Teas. Even though petiteness is a desirable trait, it does not mean that the tinier Miniature should take preference over the somewhat large variety in all cases. The hybrids with flowers up to 1 across should be grouped as small Minis, while others should be listed as larger-flowered and
judged against themselves. In this system a perfectly formed 2 flower will NOW IS THE TIME not win over a similarly perfect 3/4 Landscaping ® grounds maintenance flowerjust because it is larger. pruning @ spraying @ fertilizing Amisnamed, mislabeled or Call Wayne Ray 463-5819 misclassed Miniature must be Custom Landscape Gardening disqualified. Some decorative type Member: Landscape Ontario Miniatures are in their most perfect phase of possible beauty when fully July: Time to start sowing your open, others, conversely, when they perennial seeds for next year s are just past the bud stage. Petiteness flowers. in an inflorescence is an asset the July: Pinch back chrysanthemums same as petiteness of the bloom. An and other plants you want to keep unusually large inflorescence could bushy be penalized all the points allowed for size.
The Canadian point system for judging roses is as follows Form 25, Colour 25, Substance 20, Stem and Foliage 20, Size 10.
Growers of Hardy Roses
Evergreen ® Shrubs @ Trees
Perennials ® GreenhousePlants
Come to our
FALL ROSE SHOW
FORM is a bloom at its most perfect September 9-10 phase of possible beauty, generally PINEHAVEN from 1/2 to 3/4 open, gracefully NURSERIES LTD shaped, symetrically arranged in an e _attractive outline. Ajudge checks for 475 QueenswayW. Mississauga277-2713
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late disbudding and removes points if this is in evidence. If the rose still has good conformance and scores high in the class it can still win a first place award. When judging sprays the visual effect and overall form ofthe inflorescence is very important. Second in importance is the form of the individual florets and third the stages of bloom displayed. Arrangement of the florets should be without gaps and with a closed center. Ifthe center has
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been disbudded and an open bowl center appears it must be penalized very heavily. Form can be circular, oval or practically any other geometric form. Blooms should show all stages of development from green buds tojust beginning to unfurl . .. 1/3 open, 1/2 open to 3/4 open for some varieties. Many blooms open about the same time is a characteristic of some varieties.
COLOUR is made up of three factors hue, chromaand brightness. Hue gives visual impact to the eye and distinguishes one colour from another. Chroma is the purity and intensity of the hue. Brightness is the clarity and vividness of the hue.
SUBSTANCE indicates freshness and the quality and quantity of matter in the petals. It constitutes the texture, crispness, firmness, thickness and toughness of the petals and determines the degree of stability and durability of form and keeping quality ofthe rose.
STEM and FOLIAGE. Stems should be of proper length to complement the"
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bloom with typical prickles or thorns and at least one five-leaflet leaf or two three-leaflet leaves or more. Foliage must be typical, undamaged, clean, well groomed without spray residue or evidence ofinsect damage or disease.
SIZE. All elements must be considered before the physical size becomes the determining factor. The judge must be aware of those varieties that grow somewhat larger and must allow for this variation without penalty. Very often people see miniatures for the first time in a fascinating collection in arose show. Others see them for the first time in a lapel vase or in a tiny corsage and always their first question is Are they real? Not until they touch or smell them are they convinced,
White Flies: Put yellow plastic ribbons, yellow plastic strips among the flowers. Anything yellow will distract white flies.
MISSISSAUGA FALL ROSE GARDEN TOUR presented by THE CANADIAN ROSE SOCIETY
Start-off Sunday, September 10 anytime between 10:00 a.m. and 3:00 p.m. from Pinehaven Nurseries, 475 QueenswayWest, Mississauga,wheretheirownFallRoseShow will be in progress and where tickets and mapsfor the C.R.S. rose garden tourmaybe obtained. Several lovely gardens in the Mississauga area will be graciously opened by their owners for viewing including the Humeniuks and the Lavers, ending up with refreshments in the final garden.
For further information:
270-6266
July: If you don t mulch, it s better to do more cultivating and less watering. Cultivation helps conserve whatever moisture is in the soil and gives the roots fresh air now and again.
July: If you have sweetpeas, give them plenty of water or mulch well.
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Available from:CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE BOOK SHOP 777 Lawrence Ave., East Don Mills, Ont. M3C 1P2 Phone 445-1552
Il'is Recommended Varieties
Miniature Dwarf Bearded 3-10 , an extremely hardy excellent rock garden plant.
Already deep red-purple
Bright White white
Blue Whiskers yellow
Mini Plic Plicata white, blue edges
Sky Caper pale blue
Standard Dwarf Bearded 10-15 , hardy, multiply rapidly.
How Now white & turquoise, plicata
Orange Caper orange-yellow
Rosy Treasure rose-amethyst
Tonya sky blue & violet
Ruffled Goldstrike yellow bitone
Intermediate Bearded 15-28 , hardy, multiply rapidly.
Border Cream cream
Lillipinkput golden-apricot
Maroon Caper reddish-purple
Rose Harmony rosy-violet
Sweet Allegro pink
Tall Bearded 28-42 , most popular with several hundred introduced each year.
Amethyst Flame violet
Blue Sapphire blue
Christmas Time white, red beard
Esther Fay pink
Jungle Fires red
Miss Illini yellow
Orange Parade orange
Prince Indigo purple
Sable Robe black
Stepping Out violet & white
Golden Encore yellow
Lavish lavender
Royal Summer purple
Although the above varieties are recommended there are many others that are equal in all respects.
THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE
For unusual, practical gifts, gardening needs and books, visit the shops on the lower level. Open to the public during regular CGC hours.
(Remember the 10% discount to members on purchases over $2.00.)
Iris Terminology
FALLS three lower petals of the flower.
BEARD the hairy area on top of the falls.
STANDARDS three upper petals of the flower.
BICOLOUR an Iris flower of two colours.
BITONE an Iris flower with two shades of the same colour.
BLEND a flower with three or more colours.
RHIZOME the flat horizontal root .
PLICATA a flower featuring a light ground with the edges stitched, stippled or banded with a darker colour.
SELF an Iris flower with standards and falls the same colour.
FAN named from the leaf shape.
We ship anywhere
Canada s Largest
Iris Garden
specializing in Miniature, Intermediate, Standard, Border andTall Bearded Iris.
Siberian and Spuria available for pick-up orders only.
e Qver 600 varieties with some bloom between early May and mid-July.
® Peak bloom mid-June.
e Visitors and group tours welcome.
McMILLEN S
Iris Gardens
R.R.#1 Norwich, Ontario (519) 863-6587 NO0J 1P0
CALVERT PARTY SERVICES CATERING
WEDDINGS am 2, COCKTAIL PARTIES L TL L) BANQUETS fulll AR BUFFET DINNERS - B \P PLANTPICNICSOPENINGS OPEN HOUSE
INTERNATIONAL CUISINE PLATTER STYLE HOT & COLD HORS D OEUVRES COMPLETE SERVICE INCLUDING TABLES, CHAIRS, WAITRESSES, BAR STAEE, DISC JOCKEYS; ETC.
WEDDING CAKES
85Jonesville Cr.
INDUSTRIAL CATERING METRO WIDE SERVICE
For moreinformationcall our representativeat 755-5244for anappointment tofill youinondetails and give you a typed estimate.
"After 140 years, still good for everything you grow. )\"
HILLVIEW FARMS LTD. R.R. No. 4, Woodstock, Ont. Toronto: 36 Smithwood Drive, Islington
