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UNIONVILLE SCARBOROUGH 1242 Dundas St. E. No. 7 Highway 1306 Kennedy Rd. West of Thickson Rd. East of Woodbine Ave. South of Highway 401 East of Anderson St. West of Kennedy Rd. North of Lawrence Ave. 668-7505 297-3330 755-5345
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MISSISSAUGA CAMBRIDGE 1582 The Queensway 335 Dundas St. E. 561 Hespeler Rd. Between Kipling Ave. East of Highway 10 Highway 24 and Highway 427 West of Cawthra Rd. 500 yds. S. of Highway 401 255-0725 277-2727 621-5281
November 1978
Volume 5, Number 6
In this issue
Cover photo by Betty Greenacre, internationally known nature and pictorial photographer.
Preparing the Garden for Winter/5
Grafting Cacti/8
Gesneriad Culture/9
Nature s Gift Christmas Trees/11
Attracting Birds to Your Garden/15
Publication Committee
James Floyd (Chairman), Jerry Maccabe, Pat Rogal, Mary Smith, Clive E. Goodwin
Editor: Frederik Kirby
Advertising: Shirley Kirby (416) 226-0996
Graphics and Printing
Drewmark Graphics, Toronto
General Information 1ssn 03so-1470
" Trellis is publishedinthe monthsofJanuary,March,May, July, September, and November and distributed on or about the 15th of the month previous by the Civic Garden Centre, 777 Lawrence Avenue East, Don Mills, Ontario M3C 1P2. The Centre is located in Edwards Gardens, at Leslie Street and Lawrence Avenue East, the geographical centre of Metropolitan Toronto. It is a non-profit gardening and floral arts information organization with open membership. Subscriptions to Trellis are only available through Centre membership ($10 per year). Opinions expressed within do not necessarily reflect those of the Centre.
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CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE
How to keep houseplants happy? Gardens glowing? Shrubs scintillating? Lawns luxurious? Join us and find out all this and more. At The Civic Garden Centre you ll be among friends, people who share the same interests you do in gardening and horticultural things.
As a Civic Garden Centre member, you enjoy free borrowing privileges in the new Horticultural Library s over 3,000 gardening books. You save 10% on purchases in the new Garden and Book Shops, over $2. You enroll in members only special horticultural and flower arranging classes. Trellis magazine will be mailed to your home every two months.
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Preparing the Garden for Winter
by James Ford President, Men s Garden Club
Sanitation is of prime concern to the good gardener and, it seems to me, is most important in the Fall when preparing the garden for winter.
Briefly put, the stems of perennials should be cut off close to the ground and put out for the garbage collection, notwithstanding the importance of maintaining a compost pile.
The leaves of peonies, monkshood (digitalis) and rhubarb are poisonous and ought not to be consigned to the compost heap. While the . concentration of poison in the compost from these sources might be insignificant, I think the average person has enough to cope with in regard to poison residues on the fruit and vegetables we buy.
One should endeavour to collect all the fallen rose leaves and pick off the discoloured and diseased ones still adhering to the stems. These may be infected with black spot and mildew and should be collected in a paper bag and burned or put out for garbage collection. Needless to say this will be an arduous chore for the
CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE
Board of Directors for 1978-79
gardener who has many roses and this may well be a counsel of perfection for him!
All garden trash should be picked or raked up to eliminate as much as possible the carry-over of pests and their eggs, also fungus spores which could winter over in the hollow stems or on the shrivelled, frozen leaves of plants such as delphiniums or phlox.
Late in November or early December, depending on the locality where the reader lives, when the ground has frozen, the roses should be hilled up to a height of 6, 8, or 10 inches with earth from another part of the property. It should not be drawn up from the ground surrounding the roses thus exposing the roots. Later, when the hilled-up soil has frozen, dead leaves are piled on the rose bed to a depth of at least six inches. If these procedures are done prematurely, the dormancy of the roses is delayed, in fact, an unseasonably warm spell might well promote new growth to the detriment of the plants. The insulation provided by the mulch would keep the frozen
Mr. W. Grant Ross (Chairman), Mr. Irwin Bailey, Mr. Murray Blankstein, Mrs. D. P. Bryce, Mrs. J. B. Conlin, Mr. James Craig, Mr. Ken Duncan, Mr. Gordon A. Fear, Mr. Colin Ferrington, Dr. Albert Fisher, Mr. James Floyd, Mrs. G. M. Frost, Mrs. J. A. Gardner, Mrs. G. Irvine, Mr. Jerry Maccabe, Mr. Les Marsh, Mr. J. C. Mason, Miss Pat Rogal, Mrs. Mary Smith, Mr. T. W. Thompson, Mrs. J. R. M. Wilson.
earth from thawing if the warm spell occurred subsequent to the mulching. Truly, it would be nice to do these chores on a pleasant Indian Summer day but if mice have not already found a place to hibernate they might find a snug haven under the leaves and feed on the bark of the roses. They will be prevented from doing serious damage ifthey cannot penetrate the frozen soil.
The rose stems should be shortened to about two feet to lessen the whipping action of the winter winds. One rosarian whose opinion | value highly, stated that he thought the whipping action caused the snow to be pushed away from the stems and then water from rain or melting snow funelled down to the base of the plants which would be undesirable.
Some years ago, many roses were lost because of a very severe winter but losses seemed minimal when the roses were mulched after being hilled up.
[ now come to the standard roses which require special treatment. In this climate, hilling and mulching are insufficient for standards. If the stems on the head are long, they should be shortened somewhat and tied in carefully to compact the head. A trench should be dug, slightly longer than the height of the rose and deep enough to accommodate the head. Then, on the side opposite the trench, about two feet from the stem, with a sharp spade, dig down in a semi-circle, cutting the roots so that the rose can be laid down in the trench. The soil should then be laid on the rose for its entire length being careful to cover the roots and head completely when refilling the trench. A good mulch is essential.
Climbing roses should be detached from their supports and the ends of the branches pegged down. One must be very careful about this. The stems may be too brittle to take this
lying down as it were. I have found that if link two bricks with a two foot length of cord and then sling this over the arching branches, gradually they will yield to the gentle pressure and by winter the tips are lying flat on the ground. Snow heaped on them with the addition of branches from our Christmas tree suffices to protect them.
Because we usually have a plentiful snowfall in the Toronto area [ have not considered it necessary to mulch aquilegias, delphiniums, hostas, iris, peonies, phlox and other hardy perennials, including Lilium Candidum or Madonnas. However, I do keep a leaf mulch on Lilium Regale and Enchantment lilies at all times.
Clematis should also be released from their supports. Ifthey have been trained up on strings, cut the strings and let the stems fall to the ground. Do not prune them at this time. The addition of a mulch of excelsior, which doesn t mat down, is sufficient protection against freezing and thawing which is all the protection that most perennials require.
Once the beds and borders have been cleared of the debris, the ground should be dug, incorporating liberal quantities of compost, peatmoss, mushroom compost or similar material to return organic matter to the soil. After digging, it should be left rough to expose insect pests and their eggs which would otherwise hibernate underground and emerge in the spring.
With regard to insect pests, | have been quite concerned about the evident increase in the number of earwigs in recent years. They are very destructive. They emerge from their hiding places in the evenings, eat holes in the flowers and foliage and in daytime take refuge in cracks and crannies of adjacent structures and other convenient hiding places. An entomologist with the Ontario
Department of Agriculture recommends the use of carbaryl, diazinon, chlordane or propoxier, preferably in July, too late for this year, alas. It may not be too late however to cut down their numbers by spraying. [ am not familiar with these chemicals and have depended on such preparations as malathion, benlate, rotenone or a combined insecticide and fungicide for the limited amount of spraying ['ve done. However, | regard the intrusion of the earwig in this area as a serious threat to our horticulture, therefore [ am quite prepared to conquer my aversion to spraying to widen the spectrum of pesticides [ employ in an effort to control this obnoxious pest.
INTERNATIONAL AWARD TO METRO PARKS
- The 11th International Bedding Plant Conference was held at the Skyline Hotel, October 1 to 5. The top award in North America for use of bedding plants was presented to the Metro Toronto Parks Department and accepted by Otto Richter, Chief Horticulturist. Mr. Richter s mass design and arrangements using bedding plants for Metro Parks were chosen best in North America.
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Grafting Cacti
by B. A. Veldhuis
Grafting is an ancient and valuable horticultural practice for the propagation of plants which do not breed type to type or for the improvement of fruit yield. Nearly everyone is aware that most fruit trees are grafted to more sturdy, vigorous, hardy or disease resistant root stock in order to enhance the quality and quantity of fruit.
Grafting is undertaken for a variety of reasons:
1. To propagate infertile varieties of plants, such as Name oranges, 2. To propagate without change hybrid plants whose seeds do not all grow into plants like the parents,
3. To increase the speed of propagation and induce more rapid fruiting,
4. To check or eliminate parasites.
Grafting is a fairly simple operation in which two freshly cut stem sections are bound together until their cells grow together and thus form an organic union. The under section is known as the stock and the stem which is grafted to is known as the scion.
The most common forms of tree grafting are budding in which a leaf bud from one plant is grafted onto thestemofanotherplant,andwhipand cleft grafting in which the stock is cut in a way to allow the scion to be inserted. In all tree grafting, after the scion is inserted, the stems are taped to prevent movement and grafting wax is applied to prevent dehydration. These remain until the graft is seen to be successful.
The grafting of Cactiis a straightforward though not always successful procedure. The stock must be selected for its strong and
vigorous growth, the usual choices being Hylocereus undatus, Nyctocereus serpentinus, Cereus spp., Trichocereus spp., Pereskia, Pereskiopsis and Myritillocactus geometrizans.
The scion is usually a slow growing species which poses a great number of difficulties when grown on its own roots or which reaches maturity (and, therefore, flowering and seed-bearing age) very slowly. To accelerate its maturation by means of grafting is both desirable and relatively easily done.
Since grafting is a method ofjoining the stems of two species, the grafting of Cacti is logical because Cacti are stems only with no extraneous leaves. To begin, the stock and scion are both cut with a clean sharp knife: it is imperative that both the stems be. cut straight, otherwise the cambium layers are prevented from growing together because they do not meet in all places but are separated by an air space.
The two freshly cut stem sections must be placed and held together firmly until the cambium layers have grown together. There are several ways to do this:
1) With cotton thread, tie the scion to the stock so that it cannot slip sideways.
2) Place a stick beside the graft, reaching to the same height: lay a small strip of glass from the top of the stick to the top of the graft and weight the glass with small stones.
3) If the understock is fairly heavy, place the graft up-side-down and let the weight of the stock hold the scion securely in place.
Failure in grafting Cacti nearly always occurs at this stage, so be
extremely careful in cutting the stock and scion and in ensuring that they are held firmly together while the cambium layers grow together. Do not be discouraged if your first attempts meet with no success: Cacti are tough and unless stock and scion are pressed together too firmly, no damage is sustained when a graft fails to take. Both stems can be re-cut only slightly further up or downanda further attempt made.
Many of the novelty grafted Cacti currently available are quite capable of growing on their own roots: some, however, requiring special care, are much easier to manage when they are grafted on a vigorous stock since there is less chance of rot.
The species of Gymnocalycium mihanovichii - the red, pink, yellow and white caps, are all mutations which lack chlorophyll, the pigment _which carries out photosynthesis (food production in plants). Consequently, these species cannot survive unless they are grafted on a stock which can manufacture food for both the scion and itself. In effect these Cacti are parasites.
Many species of the genera Rhipsalis, Zvgocactus and Epiphyllum can be grafted on Opuntia or Pereskia stock in order to hasten their growth and propagation. Since many of these cultivars are hybrids, vegetative reproduction is necessary if they are to maintain their floral characteristics. The leaves are grafted by a simple cleft graft and the leaves held in position by a long Cactus spine pushed through from one side to the other. Since the cleft is liable to split farther open when it dries, it is wise to use grafting wax to prevent dehydration.
If you are curious about grafting Cacti, the best advice one can give is try it . A sharp knife and patience
are not only for doctors.
Gesperiad
eulture
by Ron Myhr
In the September issue of Trellis, wrote about the many varieties of gesneriads which are rapidly becoming available to the indoor gardener. Most of these beautiful flowering houseplants may be readily grown in the home by a careful novice, and even the most difficult are within the range of the experienced amateur. No one who is captivated by the beauty of flowering plants should fail to consider growing a few of the gesneriads.
There are many ways to grow gesneriads, most of which have been well documented in the references listed below. I shan t, therefore, go into great detail on the culture of these remarkable plants. A few basics will suffice.
The proper soil to use with gesneriads is a matter of endless discussion among dedicated hobbyists, each with his or her own favorite. Perfection aside, any loose, well-drained medium will do. A good
Sawwhet Owl Photo by Clive E. Goodwin
quality African violet soil is quite good for such terrestrials as the Sinningias and the Streptocarpus, and will do for the epiphytic genera (Columnea, Nematanthus, etc.), although these latter will benefit from the superior drainage provided by the addition of 25% perlite or fir bark. | use a mixture composed of one to two parts of peat moss plus one part each of packaged potting soil, perlite and vermiculite plus a tablespoon or two of crushed eggshells or limestone per quart of mix for almost everything. This provides a loose, well-drained medium that approximates the mechanical characteristics of the gesneriad s natural soil.
With a growing medium that is low in actual soll, it is wise to fertilize lightly with every watering. Use 1/4 tsp of a balanced fertilizer such as 2020-20 per gallon of water. Use more fertilizer if the strength is less (e.g. 1/2 tsp of 10-10-10). A predominantly soilbased medium will require fertilizer relativley less often. With most gesneriads it is wise to avoid both overwatering and drought. A condition of even moisture is ideal. For this reason, it is unwise to overpot gesneriads. Excess soil not penetrated by the roots of the plant wil stay wet, and may result in rot.
Gesneriads do well in a greenhouse, of course, but are well adapted for house culture as well. Almost any window will do, but east, south or west exposures are best. Protect the plants from hot direct sun in the summer. Some species such as Sinningia pusilla and many of the Gesnerias will thrive with much less light than most these very low-light plants do however, often require the high humidity of a terrarium.
Artificial light is perhaps the best way of growing gesneriads in the house. An ordinary two-tube fourfoot fluorescent fixture, available at
electrical supply houses or hardware stores for $15 to $30, will do very well by most gesneriads. Use one each of cool white and warm white tubes. Special plant growth tubes are not necessary, but some provide a more pleasing colour of light (as well as a much lighter pocketbook). Place the fixture so that the tubes are 15 to 30 cms above the foliage. Try to keep up the humidity around your plants, keep cold drafts away and enjoy the beauty resulting from your efforts!
The Miracle Houseplants by Elbert and Elbert. Crown Publishers An excellent book devoted exclusively to the Gesneriads and their culture. Available at the Civic Garden Centre and many other bookstores.
BONSA| DESIGNS
Bonsai Trees
Bonsai Pots and Tools
Selected Flowering and Tropical Plants
Interior and Exterior Landscape Designs in Oriental and Western Styles
It is said by some historians that the lighting of the Christmas tree can be traced to Martin Luther (1483-1546). Returning froma stroll through the countryside one Christmas eve, he was awed by the beauty of the starry heavens and wintry landscape.
On his return home, he attempted to reproduce the glory of the outdoors. He attached some lighted candles to a small evergreen to portray the reflection of the starfilled heavens.
From 1700 on lights were an accepted part of Christmas tree decorations. It is believed that trimmed Christmas trees were first used in the United States during the American Revolution. Hessian soldiers used them to soften their homesickness.
The idea spread widely. At first, trimmings were mostly small tufts of cotton and strings of popcorn and cranberries. Other decorations were flowers, replicas of foodstuffs, paper ornaments, and the like. From simpler, home-made decorations we progressed (?) to tinsel, electric lights and baubles.
There is a whole history of worship involving trees and green branches. Possibly the desire to have evergreens in the house stems from a variety of ceremonials, symbolism and religious practices, deep rooted in northern races.
Today Christmas tree growingis considered to be a form of farming, grown as any other crop. This
specialized forest industry requires the usual implements of farm husbandry such as tractors, mowers, sprayers, balers and chain saws, to name a few. It takes approximately eight to ten years to grow a seven foot Scotch Pine and approximately twelve to fourteen years to grow a Spruce of the same size.
Beginning in June and continuing into August, Christmas tree growers will commence the tree shearing process (pruning), which controls the shape and height of the tree as well as helping to develop and stimulate bud development. This action in turn increases the number of branches and the density of the foliage. The traditional conical taper is also obtained as a result of this process. Pruning provides summer employment for many students.
Not all of the trees that are planted reach maturity or are saleable. The survival rate is directly affected by exposure to extreme weather conditions, disease, insects and mice during their growing years. In some years the Pine Grosbeaks feed on the top buds during the winter season, sometimes removing almost all of the buds. This sets the development of the tree back at least a year in growth and makes shearing much more difficult and expensive.
Shearing is an essential step that growers must take to ensure that their trees will meet the high quality, which today s consumer demands. The most popular tools used are the Continuedpage 14
COMING EVENTS
Don t forget to mark your calendar for the joint Member s Night and Gardening Under Lights meeting: 8:00 p.m. NOV. 15 MR. BERT CARD with a talk and demonstration on AFRICAN VIOLETS
The final Gardening Under Lights meeting of the year will be on DEC. 13 when MR. KURT CRISTof WeallandCullenwillbetalkingaboutINDOOR GARDENING. On Jan. 10 SANDRA LEX will again speak to the group.
Be sure to visit
CHRISTMAS GREENS AND SPARKLE SHOW & SALE
NOV. 24 - 26
10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Friday and Saturday & 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday
The Now-traditional Fund-raising Sale of House Plants, Crafts and Christmas things.
In January several courses begin:
RUG HOOKING 10.00 a.m. for 8 weeks starting Jan. 5. In this course basic rug hooking will be covered, and advanced students will be instructed in crewel as it applies to rug hooking.
ORGANIC GARDENING 7.30 p.m. for 8 weeks starting Jan. 8. A new course given by Mr. Donald Harvey, himself an organic gardener.
BEGINNER S NEEDLECRAFT 1.00 p.m. & 8 p.m. for 5 weeks starting Jan. 8.
B0OTANICAL ART 10 a.m. to 3.00 p.m. for 3 weeks starting Jan. 15. We are also considering one or more weekend workshops on Botanical Art in March or April. Expressions of interest are invited.
PERENNIALS 8.00 p.m. for 6 weeks starting Jan. 18.
A new course given by Mr. Keith Squires will be dealing with a wide range of perennials, many of them excellent but unfamiliar to most gardeners. Mr. Squires is a leading grower and expert on this interesting group of plants.
Additional courses may be arranged - watch for further details.
NIAGARA BIRD WATCHING TOUR
We are considering an all-day bird watching tour for water birds to Niagara Falls, probably on Nov. 28. Thecostshouldbeabout $12.00. If you are interested let us know - it will only be organized if sufficient interest is shown.
COMING EVENT
A European Tour is tentatively planned for May 16-30, 1979, concluding with the renowned Chelsea Flower Show. This will be organized in conjunction with the Nature Travel Service (363-6394). More details later.
CHRISTMAS CLOSING - The Centre will close to the public for Christmas on Saturday December 23 and reopen January 2.
ELSEWHERE
Mr. Anthony Hutt will speak on the Islamic Garden inthePlanetarium Lecture Room of the Royal Ontario Museum at 8.00 p.m. on Nov. 1.
GREEN THUMBS
Eight to twelve year olds are eligibletojointheGreenThumbs,the Centre s Junior Garden Club for this age group.
Meetings - monthly except in July and August consist ofworkshops, demonstrations and outside trips. Cuttings, bulbs and plants are given out and there is an annual show. For more information phone Mrs. Bev. Read 225-0232
FLOWER ARRANGING JUDGING SCHOOL
A school for Judges and Exhibitors Flower Arranging will commence in 1980.
The Following are prerequisites for the school.
1. All applicants will be required to take a Basic Course in 1978or 1979, under the direction of an Accredited Judge of the Garden Clubs of Ontario.
2. Show proof of entry in the Decorative Division ofthree flower shows. These need not be standard shows. The show schedule and entry cards should be signed by the Show Chairman.
3. Write a qualifying test based on the content of the Basic Course. A passing mark of 70% will be required both in the written and practical tests. A minimal charge will be made to write the test.
All qualified students will be required to pay a registration fee of $20.00 after the results of the qualifying test are known. This fee will also cover the cost of Course 1. Students can expect to pay approximately $20:00 for each of the five subsequent courses.
The school will comprise six three-daycourses,twiceayearatthefollowing centres: London, Hamilton and Toronto. Two courses will be scheduledat each of these centres, hence students will be required to travel to all three centres during the course of the three-year school (1980, 1981, 1982).
For information you may contact: CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE, 4th Judging Course, 416-445-1552.
Christmas Trees
Continued from page 11
two-handled hedge clipper and the lightweight 14- to 16-inch slicing knife In the latter case a leg guard must be worn to protect the worker from possible injury. Shearing begins with the topmost terminal branch or leader. This is the branch where most people place a star or an angel, and growers want it to be as perfect as possible. The shearer works around the tree cutting off long and irregular branches that would hinder the conical appearance of the tree. The bottom whorl of branches is then removed to form a handle on the treet trunk for the stand.
The ideal tree of normal taper is about two-thirds as wide as its height with a 40% to 70% taper. Anything less than 40% is referred to as candlestick taper; more than 70% as flaring . Spruces and firs are generally tapered from 40% ta 70%; pines range from 40% to 90%.
An increasingly popular way of obtaining your tree is to take your family out to a local Choose & Cut farm to select and cut your own tree. This outing provides entertainment for the whole family and a touch of tradition which is lacking in our modern day lifestyle. Children and adults alike will long remember the warmth of the bonfire and the
pleasant wintertime picnic of hotdogs and toasted marshmallows at the tree farm. Some farms offer tractor rides for you and your tree and will machine wrap your tree for easy handling. Most tree growers advertise their locations in the classified section of metropolitan newspapers, Ministry of Natural Resources or Agriculture and Food offices and Tourist Information Centres.
Occasionally someone thinks harvesting Christmas trees harms the ecology, or is wasteful. However, nothing could be further from the truth. These trees are grown intentionally to be in people s homes at Christmas.They are grown on marginal land with topsoil not suitable for most crops. As the Christmas tree grows it serves to beautify the countryside, provide an ideal habitat for birds and wildlife, and reduces surface run-off in the spring and prevents soil erosion. Each acre of growing trees will also produce enough oxygen for eighteen people.
The members of the Ontario Christmas Tree Growers Association are striving to provide you with the beauty and tradition of a natural tree at Christmas, both now and for your festive enjoyment during the years to come.
H. R. Drysdale is Secretary of the Ontario Christmas Tree Growers Association
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Attracting Birds toYour Garden
by Clive E. Goodwin Executive Director, C.G.C.
In an earlier article I talked about feeding birds in winter, and at that time suggested that if you wished to make your garden attractive to birds, there were a number of other things you could do to encourage them throughout the year. In this article I will look at planning your garden with a view to attracting birds.
No elaborate feeders or expensive feeds are going to attract many birds to a second-story apartment at Bay and Bloor. The location of your garden does have a lot to do with the variety of birds you are going to attract, but having said that, there are many things that can be done to make the average garden more attractive.
Let s start with some general principles. You are more likely to find a greater variety of birds along the edges of a woodland than you are either in its centre or in the neighboring field. You can make use of this edge effect, as it is called, in garden planning. If you have a good mix of trees, shrubs and open spaces you will attract many more birds than you will with a more open garden. Be sure to site your plantings with a mind to the view from your windows, because it is
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from these that you are going to do most of your watching.
Birds seek warmth and shelter, particularly in winter, and will more often choose sunny areas in which to loiter and feed throughout the year. This is the second thing to bear in mind in locating your trees and shrubs. You should also consider that in winter deciduous woodlots have very few birds, but coniferous woods can have many. Put together, these ideas mean that if you want winter birds you should plant evergreens, and you should plant them with an eye to the direction of the prevailing winds. If these are from the north and northwest in winter, and you can effectively screen your garden from
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these directions byjudicious plantings of evergreens, you will create a warm, sunny oasis which will encourage birds to linger even when they are not feeding.
Another matter to consider in your planning is the time of day you are most likely to be watching, and the location of the sunny areas of your garden at that time. Most of the leisurely bird watching from our own windows is done in the evening, and happily our windows face east towards a bank of trees at the bottom of the garden. These often attract migrant warblers and flycatchers, which linger and feed in the warmth of the setting sun, while spruce trees along our northern fenceline screen the garden throughout the day.
The final thing that you should consider in regard to siting is the positioning of bird feeding stations and bird baths. Most birds are reluctant to move too far from.
CNB @ SOCIAL caterPlan CATERING
cover, and so these structures should be positioned sufficiently close to shrubs and trees to give the birds a sense of security, without being so over-hung that the neighbourhood squirrels have a ready jumping-off point onto the roof of the feeder.
If you have planned your bird garden with these thoughts in mind, after a few years you should have a garden with sufficient cover to encourage birds to visit and nest, and at the same time one that looks attractive.
The actual selection of trees and shrubs can be governed by similar considerations. A judicious foundation planting ofjuniper and yew cultivars can be supplemented with taller coniferous trees elsewhere in the garden to provide the necessary cover, and the deciduous trees and shrubs selected with an eye to those that have fruits that attract birds. The numbers of
these are legion, and almost every writer on the subject seems to have his or her own favourite list. The accompanying table lists those which [ have known to be productive in the Toronto area in my own experience, but there are many other species which can be planted and which [ am sure would be equally useful. You should consider in making your selection the times of year which these various plants fruit. If your lot is big enough you can hope to achieve a balance, but otherwise you may opt for something that has fruits in a season when you particularly wish to have birds. Some viburnums, for example, tend to be last-resort foods and are only used late in the winter; this means that in some years the berries are never taken at all, but in other years you may be able to attract finches and waxwings to enliven the garden at a time when winter days are at their dreariest.
Water is particularly important during the hot days of summer, but water is also sought in the winter, the sound of running or dripping water will attract such birds as warblers on migration, which would not normally be otherwise attracted to the foods that you or your plantings provide.
Bird boxes are popular, although
relatively few of the ones | see around the city are occupied. Boxes can be purchased ready-made, or you can make your own from plans, but unless you wish Starlings or House Sparrows to take over the box you should be careful to select a hole size that is small enough (usually 1 1/8 ) to keep these species out. The birds that use bird boxes most in our neighbourhood are House Wrens, and although they are belligerent tenants and will drive most other birds away, their lively and persistent singing does make them a happy addition to the garden. [ have many queries about Purple Martins, but unless your lot is quite open you are unlikely to attract these birds. We are not too far from the edge of martin range, and the species has fared ill in the recent cold springs and is quite scarce at present.
Most of the common garden birds do not use the holes for nesting, but will build their nests somewhere in your trees or shrubbery, or on the house itself. Robins, and in the cottage country phoebes, are wellknown for their willingness to build nests on shelves or ledges if these are provided for them. If you do go in for bird boxes it is necessary to clean them out at the end of the season if they have been used, and
Reeves Nursery
Whatever your gardening needs are, we ll be pleased to serve you at Reeves Nursery, Ontario s largest climate-controlled garden centre. In the tropical greenery of our five gigantic greenhouses, you ll also find lovely wicker furniture, Canadiana and even an entire section devoted to kitchen ware and gourmet cooking. We re slightly out of the way, but quite out of the ordinary.
8700 Islington Ave., 2 miles north of Hwy. 7.851-2275.
give them an application of bugkiller to eliminate any parasites which may otherwise over-winter in the box.
Some people keep their bird feeding trays going throughout the summer and supplement the diet provided with dried and fresh fruits to attract a wider range of birds. If you plan to do this it is not necessary to supply table-quality fruits, as discards or spoiled material are equally acceptable for the birds. Specially designed hummingbird feeders are available, in which you can supply a boiled mixture of water and honey (3 to 1), and you may be one of the lucky people that succeeds in attracting Ruby-throated Hummingbirds in this manner.
With good site layout, shelter, a variety of food and water available
GARDEN ALL YEAR
A hobby without peer for leisure, home beauty and livability a garden that blooms all year with only a few hours care each week.
Our catalogue contains dozens of full colour photos of prefabricated greenhouses in lifetime aluminum. With it you can choose a greenhouse that is sure to harmonize with your home. Write for your copy today!
LORD & BURNHAM CO. LIMITED
325 Welland Ave., St. Catharines, Ontario L2R 6V9
you could now hope to have a panorama of birds passing before your windows throughout the year. In spring and fall many migrants will visit, in the summer a few pairs of breeding birds will set up territory, and in winter you can hope to attract the assortment of hardy birds that either remain in or move into our latitude at that season. It is probably best to start your feeding in the late fall, because many birds establish winter ranges which do not then change significantly unless a serious food shortage occurs. A well-stocked feeder can convince them that your garden should be included in their winter range.
The avid horticulturist must be prepared to make some concessions in order to attract birds. The process of site planning and plant selection that | have
Distlefink Feeder
(Thistle Finch from the Pennsylvania Dutch)
Afeeder that will delight both amateur and professional ornithologists. Attracts droves of colorful goldfinches, purple finches, redpolls and saucy siskins. Especially designed to conserve seed because it restricts birds to picking out one seed ata time rather than scattering it on the ground. (A little L £, bitof Thistle Seed * goesalong way.) Wooden perches provide protection.
Feeder and Thistle Seed available at Gift Shop, Civic Garden Centre.
Distributed in Canada by YuleHyde Associates Ltd. 15 EImbank Rd., Thornhill, Ontario L4J 2B6.
- . 3:?2
Viburnum berries in snow Clive E. Goodwin outlined might be quite different if you were planning your garden with a view to plants alone. This is particularly true in selecting shrubs, because some of the best are neither as showy nor as attractive in their growth habit as other cultivated ornamentals which are of little value in providing food for birds, although they may be useful as cover.
A second area of compromise is in the maintenance you give your garden, because making a garden attractive to birds often implies a less conscientious approach towards cleaning up and pest control than a horticulturist would prescribe. A good succession of bloom and maintenance of vigorous stock usually calls for removal of
OF Park Towers
400 Walmer Rd., Toronto Tel. 962-1989
® Flowers and plants 2
o Silk flower wedding -, bouquets and arrangements
® Bonsai trees living sculptures
® Chinese antique porcelain
dead flowers without giving them an opportunity to seed, but if you wish to attract birds you should allow at least some of your plants to fruit and over-winter in this condition. Pest control is a particular thorny problem, because many of the modern pesticides are seriously injurious to birds as well as to pests, and although DDT and its derivatives are now banned it is still better to concentrate on using some of the older (but less spectacularly effective) pesticides than obtaining fast results with newer, more lethal compounds. As a bird enthusiast you may in fact come to view the pests rather differently. A wild crab apple tree at the end of our garden forms a haven for pests innumerable, but it is also alive with warblers throughout the fall as a result. This is not to suggest that to have birds you must allow your
Everything you wanted to know about plants. Your questions answered by Ken Reeves, plant expert of CBC' s Radio Noon. $7.95 at bookstores.T
\ @) Clarke Irwin
Lynn
garden to become over-run with bugs, but it does call for being reasonably selective in the use of pesticides and perhaps tolerating insects in places where they are not doing too much damage. Just where you draw the line is, of course, your own decision. You can have the satisfaction of feeling an environmentally responsible citizen by foregoing much use of pesticides. With thoughtful planning, some moderate outlay in plant material, a bird bath and some bird feeders together with seed each year, you can look forward to having a garden which is not only rewarding horticulturally, but which has an everchanging flow of bird visitors.
Repairs to all makes of lawn care and snow thrower equipment
Storing seed
Put unused seed in a small, airtight jar and keep in your refrigerator. Moisture is Public Enemy No. 1 when it comes to saving seed. Keep moisture out, not in. Temperature is the next thing to consider. . . the cooler the better. Don t worry about seed freezing. There s not enough moisture in seed to freeze.
from Under Glass by John Burnham
GARDEN THE YEAR ROUND WITH
CANADA S LEADING INDOOR GARDEN AND GREENHOUSE ACCESSORIES SPECIALIST
EQUIPMENT
@ CONSULTANTS
2241 DUNWIN DRIVE, MISSISSAUGA, ONTARIO L5L 1A3
& SALES
TELEPHONE: (416) 828-5925 » 878-4984
CABLES: EQUIPCON
CANADIAN MADE INDOOR GARDEN UNITS
* Wall, Table and Build-Up Multi-Tray Units
* Swag Lamps * Complete Plant Room Installations
IMPORTED HUMEX AND NETHERGREEN GREENHOUSE ACCESSORIES
* Heaters » Thermometers * Moisture Meters
» Automatic Watering Systems ¢ Vent Openers
* Roll Shades ¢ Hi-Lo Temperature Alarm Systems
» Automatic Propagators ® Thermostats
» Soil Heating Cables ¢ Capillary Matting
IMPORTED STEWART PLASTIC GARDEN WARE
¢ Propagators ® Pots and Saucers ® Shrub Tubs
e Troughs ® Sieves ® Trays
You are cordially invited to visit THE PLANT ROOM at 6373 Trafalgar Road (2.6 miles south of Highway 401) and see the finest collection in Canada of exotic plants growing under our units and in our modern greenhouses. FREE ADVISORY SERVICE available upon request.
SOME PLANTS ATTRACTIVE TO BIRDS
Mountain Ash (Sorbus) tree
Mulberry (Morus) tree
Hackberry (Cercis) tree
Viburnum shrubs v. acerifolium, V. opulus, V. trilobum, V. lentago
Dogwoods (Cornus) shrubs C. dlternifolia, C. kousa, C. stolonifera
Honeysuckles (Lonicera) shrubs L. tatarica, L. japonica
Cherries (Prunus) trees or small trees
P. virginia, P. serotina, P. pensylvanica
Elderberries (Sambucus) shrubs S. pubens, S. canadensis
Buckthorn (Rhamnus) shrubs
Lilac (Syringa) shrubs
Mock Orange (Philadelphus) shrubs
Barberry hedges, shrubs
Rosa multiflora hedges, shrubs
White Cedar (Tsuga) conifer
Spruce (Picea) conifer
Climbing Bittersweet climber (Celastrus Scandens)
Wild Grape (Vitis) climber
Trumpet Vine climber
Salvia herbaceous
Nicotina (white) herbaceous
Cosmos herbaceous
Asters herbaceous
Sunflowers & allied genera herbaceous
Cornflower (Centaurea) herbaceous
INTERIOR LANDSCAPE DESIGN
Custom designed window boxes and planters JOHN CHALLIES 487-9855
PRUNING SPECIALIST
All types of shrubs and trees properly pruned. Winter rates.
REMOVALS FULLY INSURED
Brian Sinclair Phone 762-5828 anytime
berry
berry
berry
berry
berry
berry
berry
berry
berry capsule capsule
berry
berry cone cone
berry
berry flower flower flower seed seed seed seed
Sept.-winter pungent blossoms
July-August Fall Winter Fall some untidy growth
July-August
July-Sept. some species rather weedy
early fall untidy growth
winter
winter finches
winter finches
winter
winter space-consuming
winter finches
winter finches
winter
fall wild garden only summer hummingbirds
early fall hummingbirds
summer hummingbirds
fall-winter
fall-winter
fall-winter
fall-winter
COMPOST BINS
Turn garden and kitchen wastes into rich, fertile compost toimprove poor soil and feed lants. Grow
un iful harvests of vegetables and more beautiful flowers. Scientifi- cally designed bins produce valuable compost in weeks. No turning the heap. Make a ton in one season. Send for FREE catalog: Fast, Efficient, Reliable
Book Reviews
Ken Reeves new book, PLANTS ANSWERS THAT WORK (157 pp. Clarke Irwin, $7.95) is a compact practical guide to house plants. He s eminently qualified to handle the topic, as his business includes a wide range of house plants, and his popular radio programme gives him an insight into listeners problems. Chapter headings include such topics as potting, watering, fertilizing, lighting and bugs and diseases. Under these Reeves uses a question and answer format to deal with the problems encountered by house plant growers. Features of the book also are a section on poisonous plants and a pronunciation guide. In all, a useful volume for anyone interested in growing house plants.
eWestern and Japanese landscape design and construction.
e Stonework, patios, decks, driveways
®Planting and pruning shrubs and trees
e [ andscape maintenance service
®Snow removal
Members: Landscape Ontario and Toronto Homebuilders Association.
Taloumis, George. Winterize your yard and garden. 1976
This detailed account is divided into four parts, the first three of which deal with gardening in the North. Part 1 covers what to do in your garden in the fall, part 2 describes wintertime chores, and part 3 is entitled Getting ready for Spring .
Schuler, Stanley. The Winter Garden. 1972
Planning a garden to look beautiful all the year round is the theme of this book. Detailed illustrated chapters on trees, shrubs, vines and ground covers are given, together with appropriate information on plant hardiness zones.
Pamela MacKenzie, Librarian Civic Garden Centre
Two new varieties of Saber coleus from Pan-American Seed. Saber Clown (foreground), vibrant red and salmon with yellow and green striping. In background, Saber Pineapple, green-edged yellow leaves splashed with red at base.
3-TIER AUTOMATIC on wheels Call (416) 445-5784 or write
GROWERS SUPPLY CO. Suite 2104 55 Wynford Heights Cr. Don Mills, OntarioM3C 1L5
CALVERT PARTY SERVICES
HORTICULTURIST WANTED
Pleasant person, able to deal with the public, required for sales work, answering telephone enquiries concerning plants and related problems. Applicant must have excellent knowledge of indor and outdoor plants. Excellent opportunity for the right person. Apply in person or mail resume to: White Rose Nursery, 4038 Highway #7, Unionville, Ont. L3R 2L5
FREE METRO WIDE REFERRAL SERVICE
Garden clean-up, pruning, tree planting, indoor planting, snow removal, etc.
463-5819
HORTICULTURAL MANAGEMENT SERVICES
directed by Wayne Ray
CATERING
WEDDINGS
COCKTAIL PARTIES BANQUETS
BUFFET DINNERS
PLANT OPENINGS
OPEN HOUSE
WEDDING CAKES a speciality
INDUSTRIAL CATERING
85 Jonesville Cr. METRO755-5244 WIDE
SERVICE
For more information call our representative at 755-5244 for an appointment to fill you in on details and give you a typed estimate.
This fall, when all your plants are wilting outdoors, build up a collection of indoor greenery. Small trees andfloweringplants in unusualpots andbaskets make a lovely backdrop for entertaining. And it s always great to have that perfect little plant on hand when you receive an unexpected . dinnerinvitation. Get yourcollection growing today at Clargreen.
7 days a week
Plants for an Eastern Exposure, which receive direct morning sun from sunrise to near midday, upper left: a. Dizygotheca elegantissima (False Aralia); b. Nephrolepis exaltata bosteniensis (Boston Fern); c. Ficus benjamina (Weeping Fig); d. Dracaena reflexa; e. Begonia rex cultivar (Rex Begonia); f. Dryopteris (Fern); g. Cordyline terminalis (Hawaiian Ti); h. Tolmeia menziesii (Piggyback); i. Saintpaulia lonantha (African Violet); j. Polyscias (Ming Aralia); k. Aeschynanthus radicans (Lipstick Vine); I. Sinningia speciosa (Gloxinia); and m. Tradescantia (Wandering Jew).
Plants for a Northern Exposure, which receive the least light, top left: a. Spathiphyllum Clevelandii (Spathe Flower); b. Cissus rhombifolia (Grape lvy); c. Adiantum (Maidenhair Fern); d. Aglaonema (Chinese Evergreen); e. Philodendron panduiforme (Fiddle-leaf Philodendron); f. Dracaena massangeana (Corn Plant); g. Chamaedorea elegans (Dwarf Parlor Palm); h. Scindapsus aureus (Pothosy); Dieffenbachia amoena (Dumb Cane); and j. Ficus pumila (Creeping Fig).
Pictures courtesy of Chevron Chemical (Canada) Ltd.
