HORTICUI T
1400 FLOWERS & VEGETABLES
Complete Cultural Instructions
RAPID SERVICE
e FREE CATALOGUE
Whether you have a balcony, border garden or grow commercially, you'll find everything you need in Stokes Free catalogue. It s virtually a garden encyclopedia with its complete instructions for each species. Discover many growers secrets in these detailed directions which also let you know whether you ll want to try that exotic new variety. Not every tomato is the best ever developed and Stokes descriptions recognize this. Each description tells you both the pluses and minuses of varieties . . . we want you to have the best success with your garden so you'll reorder next year. Write today for your Free copy. It s the Grower s Bible.
Bldg.,
January 1979
Volume 6, Number 1
In this issue
Cover picture of night blooming cereus (Selenicereus grandiflorus), ajungle cactus with blooms about 10 in diameter; has strong vanilla aroma. Blooms once a year. Starts opening as darkness begins; fully open about 2.00 a.m. Closes at first crack of dawn. Photographer and horticulturistis CGC member Herb Nott.
Have you heard about the wicked plants?/5
Plant more nut trees/8
FlowerArranging,anartorawasteoftime?/11
Programme Schedule January-June/13
Thoughts on foundation planting/19
Seed Catalogues how do you choose?/24
Publication Committee
James Floyd (Chairman), Jerry Maccabe, Pat Rogal, Mary Smith, Clive E. Goodwin
Editor: Fredrik Kirby
Advertising: Shirley Kirby (416) 226-0996
Graphics and Printing Drewmark Graphics, Toronto
General Information 1ssn03801470
Trellis is published in the months of January, March, May, July, September, and November and distributed on or about the 15th ofthe month previous by the Civic Garden Centre, 777 Lawrence Avenue East, Don Mills, Ontario M3C 1P2. The Centre is located in Edwards Gardens, at Leslie Street and Lawrence Avenue East, the geographical centre ofMetropolitan Toronto. It is a non-profit gardening and floral arts information organization with open membership. Subscriptions to Trellis are only available through Centre membership ($10 per year). Opinions expressed within do not necessarily reflect those of the Centre.
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| (300 illustrations. 1,490 topics.)
you heard about
by L.F. Marsh
No, this article is not about the so called man-eating plants that the Sunday supplements of the daily newspapers told about in the nineteen twenties. These plants supposedly had their habitat in Madagascar, and as this was before jet travel, they couldn t be reached for verification. To end the suspense, what I am going to describe is a very useful growing aid, that is now becoming recognized more and more among serious plant propagators, and which [ have successfully used for several years the use of a wick to water plants automatically by capillary action.
The plant stands in my plant room have three tiers of trays for each stand. The trays are about four feet by twenty inches by 13 inches deep; they are made of galvanized iron and lined with four mm. plastic folded at the corners so that they are waterproof. Commercially made trays are spray painted and should be lined with plastic, because sooner or later the paint chips, the metal rusts and you have a hole in the tray; also the plants do not like water contaminated by the galvanized iron. I used to put alayer of moist perlite or vermiculite in the bottom of the
Weekdays
Wednesdays
trays to stand the plants on, but found that it stuck to the pots and was very messy. Then [ used a white crushed rock; this was better, but algae formed in no time and the stone became covered with green and brown slime.
Now I use a porous rock called Haydite; this is a brown shale heated and broken into 1/4 to 3/8 size pieces, and sold by Domtar Ltd. It is available at some nurseries, and is the planting material used in the hydroponic units. As it is porous it is lighter than the white stone chips, and being an earth shade of brown it doesn t seem to generate algae nearly so quickly as the white stone; it also looks more natural in the trays. Humidity is very necessary for growing plants and the porous nature of this material helps materially. The uneven surface of the stone in the trays also increases the evaporating area of the water, and so provides greater humidity than there would be with just water in the tray.
My plant trays are supplied automatically with water by means of a float system. The Haydite is about three quarters of an inch in depth in the trays which brings the top of the Haydite above the water level; the
CIVIC GARDEN CENTREHOURS
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Sundays
Library closed on Sundays and Holidays 9.30 a.m. to 4.00 p.m. 9.30a.m. t0 9.00 p.m. 10.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m. 1.00 p.m. to 4.00 p.m.
Haydite being porous is nicely damp on top and even plastic pots sitting on it take up some moisture through the holes in the bottom.
I go one step further though; on top of the Haydite I have pieces of white plastic egg crate louvre. This is the material that you see underneath fluorescent ceiling fixtures. You can buy it at stores selling building materials. Sometimes you can get damaged pieces at a reduction. If so, it is easily cut with a hack saw and prefer to have it in pieces in the trays; this way you can remove sections for cleaning without disturbing all of the plants in a tray. Washing in water with a household bleach added does a quick job of getting rid of algae.
Now [ come to the wicking part. For wicks I use strips of women s stockings, cut about 1/2 wide and 5 to 6 long. Wicks are like water pipes, the thicker the wick the more water it will carry, so experiment according to the size of pot. You don t want too much water carried to the pot just enough to replenish as the plant uses it. The best planting mix is a very loose one. A synthetic mix ofone third each of sieved peat moss, vermiculite and perlite is best.
You can also use some of the synthetic knitting yarns as a wick. You can either put the wick in the pot before you pot the plant or afterwards as [ usually do. If before, soak it first in water then thread it up through the hole in the bottom of the pot, across the bottom and half way up the inside of the pot; then fill and plant. If the plant is already in the pot, soak the wick as before, take one end in a pair of tweezers, poke it through the hole in the bottom of the pot about two or three inches, and that is it. Now you let the free end of the wick go down through one of the openings in the egg crate, so that it is down in the wet Haydite. Water the plant and you have an automatic
system that will go for months as long as the trays are replenished from time to time with water. The fertilizer can be mixed and put in the trays with the water. Use 1/8 fertilizer to a gallon of water. [ use Plant Prod.
The white plastic egg crate has a clean aesthetic look in the trays and, if you wish, sections can be removed and the pots set on the Haydite with or without a wick. Clay pots will take up moisture from the Haydite; this method is similar to the sand bed used in greenhouses.
There are many commercially made pots with wicks on the market to-day. They are expensive and you can easily make your own. Plastic honey containers, and any similar ones are easily converted to use for the small pots, up to the 4 size. Set the bottom of the pot on the lid of the container, make the outline of the bottom ofthe pot with a crayon, cut it slightly smaller with a knife or scissors so that the pot goes in the hole for about half an inch or so to steady it wick the pot fill the container to below the bottom of the pot, and you can leave it for several weeks before filling it again. The plastic ice cream containers are excellent for the larger six inch pots. | have an Aeschynanthus that has been growing perfectly by means of a wick into an ice cream pail for almost ayear.
Eventually there will be some build up of fertilizer salt residue in the pots. Water generally has calcium in it and this can in time accumulate in the soil. Too much of these salts is injurious to the plant and should be flushed out once every two months or so, by pouring warm water through from the top. Let the plant drain well and do not let the pot stand in water.
A section of the plastic egg crate can be laid crossways over three or four plastic flats filled with water and fertilizer. Pots with longer wicks
down into the water through the holes in the egg crate will grow beautifully.
Other forms of wicking for plants to-day are the fiberglass mats that are laid on a table with one end in a water reservoir, and the plants sit on the wet mat. There are large 12 inch and over plastic pots with water reservoirs on the side; the Aquamatic self watering pot holds up to thirty days of water in the bottom, and is used by african violet growers. The Blumat, an Austrian design consisting of a tube from a water reservoir to a self regulating device inserted in the plant pot mixture, is another.
If you like to go away on a trip and do not have someone to look after your plants or someone that is
knowledgeable enough to water properly, these devices are a great convenience.
If you would like to hear more about indoor gardening, join the Indoor Light Gardening Society which meets every second Wednesday in the month at the Civic Garden Centre.
L.F. Marsh, ILGS Chairman *
PERENNIALS
[llustrated informative garden talk ® Choose three short subjects from list ofself-run colour slides.
NOW BOOKING THE ountry Squires Qarden
Steeles Ave. 2 miles west ofHighway10
R.R. #10, Brampton, Ontario L6V 3N2
GARDEN THE YEAR ROUND WITH PLANTS AND EQUIPMENT FROM
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¢ Swag Lamps ® Complete Plant Room Installations
IMPORTED HUMEX AND NETHERGREEN GREENHOUSE ACCESSORIES
* Heaters ® Thermometers ® Moisture Meters
* Automatic Watering Systems » Vent Openers
¢ Roll Shades ® Hi-Lo Temperature Alarm Systems
* Automatic Propagators ® Thermostats
* Soil Heating Cables * Capillary Matting
IMPORTED STEWART PLASTIC GARDEN WARE
¢ Propagators ¢ Pots and Saucers ¢ Shrub Tubs
* Troughs ¢ Sieves ¢ Trays
You are cordially invited to visit THE PLANT ROOM at 6373 Trafalgar Road (2.6 miles south of Highway 401) and see the finest collection in Canada of exotic plants growing under our units and in our modern greenhouses. FREE ADVISORY SERVICE available upon request.
Plant more nut trees the working shade trees
by R. D. Campbell
One of the great joys of exploring Ontario s finer parks, botanical gardens or unlimited wildlands comes from the ability to recognize the many species of trees which are native to Ontario. Some of the trees with the more outstanding attributes form a group which can be described as . . . the Nut Tree Family. All of the nut trees have numerous desirable characteristics in common: great strength and sturdiness; long life expectancy; notable resistance to insects and diseases; attractive foliage, tree form and bark features as well as the production of valuable crops of nuts. All of these attributes make the nut trees attractive prospects for planting on city lots and suburban estates. The sturdy, integral nature of the nut trees assures that there will be far less pruning and maintenance compared with the many soft-wood trees. Furthermore the trunks of some of the nut trees greatly increase estate values as years go by. Specimens of black walnut will often live to 150-200 years with a resultant worth which may exceed $10,000.00!
The many virtues and extreme worth of nut trees begs the question why more people have not been planting nut trees for shade purposes. Nut trees planted in this way not only provide welcome shade but also accumulate high investment values as well . . . truly the working shade trees. However, to date, nut trees have been too scarce to be commonly available from commercial nurseries and the techniques for transplanting the trees and getting them established have not been
generally known. The purpose of this article is to give a brief description of some of the hardy nut trees of Ontario and also provide a few notes about their culture.
BUTTERNUT/Juglans
cinerea
This is the hardiest of all the nut trees with native stands as far north as Barrie and Orillia. The tree tends to be rather wider than high and has smooth bark which often takes on a silverish sheen. The leaves are somewhat similar to that of the black walnut but often are of slightly coarser texture. The nuts are noticeably rough and pointed on the exterior but the kernels are a gourmet s delight.
THE HAZELS/ Corylus americana Corylus cornuta
The hazels are often described as . .. the little nuts which grow everywhere! The beaked hazel Corvylus cornuta has a smallish nut resembling the commercial hazelnut but it has a noticeably pointed end. The beaked hazel is native as far north as the James Bay Region! The American hazel Corylus americana is native to the milder parts of Ontario and the size of the nuts more nearly resembles the commercial hazelnut. The hazels usually grow in bush form with maximum heights reaching 10-12 feet. The hazels generally have rather round leaves with many small points. Mature leaves are a dark, velvety-green and this attribute makes them very handsome. The scene of a hazel thicket in the fall is often the busy focus of action for the many nuteating birds, squirrels, chipmunks and even deer . . . who want to get their share while the supply lasts!
BEECH/Fagus grandifolia
The native beech is another one of the sturdy nut trees which is renowned for its unusual bark . . very smooth and a most delicate silvery color on older trees. The leaves are solitary and oval in shape with many points along the margins. The tree makes an excellent lawn specimen although it has been found generally that they are hard to transplant successfully. The nuts are shaped like small, triangular pyramids and are a favourite ofthe many nut-eating birds.
SHAGBARK HICKORY/ Carya ovata
This species occurs in numerous regions throughout Ontario and is known for its relatively small, whitishshelled nuts with sweet, delicious kernels. In fact some experienced nut growers are so fond of the shagbark hickory flavour that they refer to the tree as . . . the gem of the north! The bark is slate gray and on older trees the bark peels off in long shaggy strips . . . giving the basis for the common name. Older trees are
especially picturesque for their bark alone. The tall, sentinel-like silhouette of the shagbark hickory is another of its many virtues. The compound leaves of this species usually contain 5 leaflets. The shagbark takes on its fall colors relatively early in the fall and sports colors of bright gold and bronze.
SHELLBARK HICKORY/Carya laciniosa
This tree is similar to the shagbark hickory but is larger in most respects .. including the nuts. In fact in some areas the tree is referred to as . . .
The Kingnut . One of the noticeable differences is that the compound leaves usually contain 7 leaflets. Distribution of the tree is somewhat rare in Ontario being confined to the areas adjacent to Lake St. Clair, the St. Clair River and the northern shores of Lake Erie.
BITTERNUT HICKORY/Carya cordiformis
This is the northernmost relative of the pecan hickory sub-group of the hickory family. The bark of the tree is almost sriiooth and the leaves are compound usually with clusters of 9 leaflets. The narrow leaflets and fine sinewy branches give the tree an almost willowy appearance. The nuts are medium sized, very thinshelled and the kernels are disappointingly bitter. One of the more unusual uses for the Bitternut Hickory is the making oflacrosse sticks from the timber.
BLACK WALNUT/Juglans nigra
The black walnut is recognized for its dark checkered bark in evidence on mature trees. The compound leaves consist of rather long stems often with 11-17 leaflets. Trees have been reported as far north as Ottawa and Montreal although it is not as common in Ontario as the shagbark hickory. The nuts are famous for their pungent tasting, gourmet-quality
The straight outline of a shagbark 'hickory.
kernels. The timber is exceedingly valuable and this quality accounts for its increasing scarcity in native stands.
SCARLET
OAK/Quercus coccinea
There are many fine oaks which thrive in Ontario but Scarlet is one of the best. The trees are very straight growing and eminently tough and sturdy. The short time required to produce a sizeable shade tree will amaze most home owners. The deeply sculptured leaves of the scarlet oak give it a very lace-like appearance and the leaves will dance gracefully even in the gentlest of breezes. Last but not least, the fall colour of the outstanding Scarlets is so gorgeous that lawns containing these specimens will be known in the peak ofthe fall season as the grandest showplaces in all the land!
SOME TIPS ON CULTURAL TECHNIQUES
Most ofthe nut trees are tap rooted. This means that on trees 3 to 6 feet high that at least 2-3 feet of tap root must be dug out in order to
transplant the trees successfully. Trees should be pruned back considerably when transplanting to compensate for loss ofroots. Trees can be transplanted in late fall (November) or spring (April). Spring planting is often found to be more successful in Ontario. Planting holes should be adequately deep but need be only a few inches in diameter . . . some roots of nut trees are just like a carrot! Earth should be tamped back around the roots of a transplanted nut iree very carefully. A narrow pole or broom handle can be used for tamping. Make sure that no air pockets are left around the roots. Thorough, summer watering of newly transplanted trees should be practised at 10-14 day intervals for the first 2 or 3 summers . . . unless there is adequate rain. Thereafter there is relatively little maintenance required except the occasional spring fertilizing with the generally available Triple 7.
Nut trees are easier to grow than most people think and the rewards are great.
Douglas Campbell is the Chairman of Continuing Education, School ofApplied Science and Technology, Niagara College, Welland, Ontario. His avocation is nut growing. He is Editor of the Society of Ontario Nut Growers and also the President of the Northern Nut Growers Association. He has a small acreage of nut trees at his residence at R.R. #1, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario. *
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Atimbrform f black walnut showing the upright tree form (late fall).
FlowerArranging an art or a waste of time?
by H. B. Skinner
Flowers are beautiful in themselves; why not just put them in a vase, vahs, vaws and let them tell their own story?
Arrangements and their accompanying arrangers have been around for centuries. A brief foray into old paintings will turn up many with bowls of flowers in them and some that are just a bowl of flowers. Although horticulturists frequently wonder at early artists license in including flowers, seemingly at their full freshness, from all three growing seasons, no one could quarrel with the most beautiful of the old paintings which give feelings of harmony and balance while allowing each flower to be seen in the fullness of its colour and beauty.
There is no doubt either that flowers add considerably to the decoration and warmth of a room. Those early paintings frequently show flowers used to enhance a room although, before twentieth century drains, their fragrance must have been almost as important as their appearance! Mrs. Beeton of early cookbook fame said, it may be observed, in general, that there should always be flowers on the table. Although we are not likely to use Victorian epergnes or create imitation parterre gardens on the table as she further suggests, flowers, well arranged in the dining room, can only enhance a table of silver and crystal and delicious food. While in living rooms, bedrooms and halls flowers give light to dark corners, complement polished wood and create a feeling of freshness and life. Some people can achieve a
beautiful effect with flowers, using a natural artistry that never puts a flower wrong . They have an inborn knowledge of the principles of design balance, rhythm, proportion, scale contrast and dominance. Yet most of us need instruction in those principles as well as the techniques of cutting and keeping, in order to turn those mussy tussies into attractive and colourful additions to the indoors. Flowers arrange themselves naturally out of doors where wind, sun and moisture are the limiting elements preventing that jammed together look. In their search to get enough light the blossoms achieve different heights and directions with plenty of space between. In the
woods clumps of trilliums, for instance, give instant lectures in arranging as each white bloom catches the light, well separated and above, below or beside the other. Groupings of Goldenrod give a superb last example of nature s ability to arrange with focal points and balance.
[t is this natural art that the flower arranger learns to imitate indoors with cut flowers. As well comes the ability to use foliage from shrubs and vines, to incorporate fruit and vegetables and, very important these inflationary days, to create ajewel with one or two flowers and a branch. Not only arranging, but learning how to cut and how to preserve or harden is important. No matter how beautiful the design, wilting or dying flowers detract considerably from the whole. On the practical side the arranger of the morning very much wants the arrangement to be fresh and lovely as the role changes to host for the evening.
The dictionary defines art as a human skill demanding mind and
imagination. Flower Arranging is an art fitting the definition perfectly. People in many countries are constantly studying and improving it and the Japanese have brought arranging to a fine art with an accompanying philosophy and symbolism that makes fascinating study.
It is not a waste of time. As a matter of fact bunching flowers into a bowl is a waste of time and a waste of beautiful material. One might better be employed sewing on a button and admiring flowers in the garden rather than cutting and bringing them in to be wedged and jammed in a pot. On the other hand, when flowers are helped to a harmonious beautiful arrangement they tell their own story best, painting the indoors with delight. '
W)/ ROUND
SEED SILO
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Metal shields aroundopenings to frustrate squirrels. Hoods over openings give weather protection.
Uses any seed or seed mixture.
Metal perches with soft vinyl covers.
Easy to take apart for cleaning.
Lock top can t blow off.
Feeder and Seed available at Gift Shop, Civic Garden Centre.
Distributedin Canada by Yule-Hyde Associates Ltd. 15 EImbank Rd., Thornhill, Ontario L4J 2B6
This is your programme for the next 6 months
THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE EDWARDS GARDENS
777 Lawrence Ave. East, Don Mills, M3C 1P2
PROGRAMME SCHEDULEJANUARY JUNE 1979
January 5
January 8
January 8
January 10
January 15
January 17
January 18
January 29
February 1,2
February 6
February 8
February 12
February 14
February 14
February 15
February 19
February 24
February 24
February 27
February 28
March 3
March 6
March 9-11
March 17
March 21
March 22
March 23-25
March 27-
April 18
March 29-
April 20
March 29
April 3
April 14
PROGRAMMESUBJECTTO CHANGE
Rug Hooking course starts
Beginners Needlepoint course starts
Organic Gardening course starts
Oriental Flower Arranging Beginners course starts
Botanical Art course starts
Centre Members Night: Mr. Art Coles with an illustrated talk about Humber Arboretum 8:00 p.m.
Perennial course starts
University of Guelph Introductory Agriculture course starts 7:30 p.m.
Cecilia Strings Concert 8:00 p.m.
University of Guelph courses on Soil Management and Farm Machinery start 7:30 p.m.
Ontario Heart Foundation Show andSale of Crafts and Collectables 10:00 a.m. 7:30 p.m.
Centre Members Night: Mr. Hyde with anillustratedtalk about Birds in your Garden 8:00 p.m.
Oriental Flower Arranging Advanced course starts
University of Guelph Forages course starts
University of Guelph Woodlot Management course starts
Advanced Needlepoint course starts
Clinics on Garden Layout. For appointment with student landscape architects, phone the Centre after January 29.
University of Guelph Farm Income Tax course starts
University of Guelph Tree Fruits course starts
University of Guelph course on Reproduction in Farm Animals starts
Clinics on Garden Layout. See Feb. 24 for details.
Decoupage course starts
Garden Club ofToronto Show: Inthe Victorian Manner. Asmall show with a Victorian flavour. Times to be announced
University of Guelph Landscape Design course starts
Special Flower Arranging Workshops start Workshop on Pot Pourri and Herbal Baths
African Violet Society Show. Time to be announced.
Canadian Nature Art Exhibition
Botanical Art Exhibition
Dunington Grubb Memorial Lecture: Alan Paterson, Curator of the Chelsea Physic Garden 8:00 p.m.
First morning Bird Walk 8:00 a.m.
Landscape Art course starts
April 18
April 19,20
April 20-22
April 21
April 23
April 25
April 26
April 27-29
April 30
May 4
Centre Annual Meeting and Members Night 8:00 p.m.
Cecilia Strings Concert 8:00 p.m.
Willowdale Group Artists Exhibition. Time to be announced.
Saturday Morning Home Gardening course starts
Flower Preservation demonstration (see couses)
Flower Arranging Basic Course 2 starts
Flower Arranging Basic Course 2 starts
Alpha Omega Art Show. Times to be announced.
PressedFlower&CornHuskcraft demonstration (seecourses)
Show and Demonstration of Rug Hooking and other Crafts taught at the Centre.
May 7 Pine Cone Craft demonstration (see courses)
May 9
May 11-13
May 15
May 16-30
May 18-19
May 26-28
June 3
June 9-10
June 13
Photography course starts
Southern Ontario Orchid Society International Show. Times to be announced.
Flower Arranging Basic Course 2 starts
Joint Civic Garden Centre Nature Travel Service tour to Europe and Chelsea Flower Show.
Civic Garden Centre Plant Sale. Times to be announced.
Milne House Garden Club Show. Times to be announced.
Rhododendron Society Show. Times to be announced.
Toronto Bonsai Society Show. Times to be announced.
Flower Arranging Capsule Review starts
Please see the following section for full details on courses offered.
Specialty Group meetings are listed separately.
HIGHLIGHTS OF THE SPRING PROGRAMME NEW COURSES
Three new courses are being introduced this year, Organic Gardening, Perennials and Landscape Art. In flower arranging, the Basic Course Part 2 is being given twice, and in the light of the coming Judging Courses in Floral Design given by the Garden Clubs of Ontario, a Capsule Review is being given in June. The Decoupage course will deal with three dimensional pictures, a new aspect of this fascinating work. This will start in March, when there will also be the first of the two workshops on making Pot Pourri & Herbal Bath mixtures.
SPECIAL EVENTS
On March 29 the Dunington Grubb Memorial Lecture will present the curatoroftheChelseaPhysic GardeninLondon,England.Toavoidconflictwith this important event there will be no Members Night in March.
Two Exhibitions will run concurrently in early April. Canadian Nature Art is the touring exhibit organized by the National Museum of Science and the Canadian Nature Federation. Our own Botanical Art Exhibit will be shown in the lower link at the same time.
A tour ofHolland, England and ending in the Chelsea Flower Show is planned for May 16-30, 1979, with Mrs. Shirley Irvine the horticultural leader, and Mr. Ron Burns of Nature Travel Service looking after the other arrangements.
Cost will be in the $700 range plus airfare, and persons interested should contact Nature Travel Service at 363-6394 or the Centre.
Heip in.m§king decorations for sale at the _r_x_eit_ Christmas Greens and Sparkle. -We're lr&iopi'ng* to be able to offer a good range of trimmings crafted by "ogr_g_v_r_l_members this year.
We know that this is the ki»nd of thing many of you enjoy doing over the winter, so we're announcing it now. The Centre will help with the makings - if you can -provide the skills!
If you'd like to help, please phone the Trellis Shop and let them know. We're not looking for expensive items: things that could sell for about $2. 00, or at the most $5.00 would be ideal.
SALE - SALE - SALE!!!
The inventory clearance sale at the Trellis Shop will be the week of Jan. 15-21. Come in and get some outstanding bargains.
WORKSHOPS ANDCOURSES
REGISTRATION IS REQUIRED FOR ALL CLASSES AND WORKSHOPS
Please use the form provided on p.18 & mail proper remittance WE REGRET NO CONFIRMATION OF REGISTRATION CAN BE SENT
January 5 RUG HOOKING 8 week course on Fridays at 10:00 a.m. One of the Centre s most popular courses. This winter Mrs. Clarke Sherbo will cover basic rug hooking, and for advanced students she will give instruction in Crewel as applied to rug hooking.
Fee: $32.00 members, $36.00 non-members.
January 8 BEGINNERS NEEDLEPOINT 5weekcourseon Mondaysat 1:00 p.m. and 8:00 p.m. In this course a sampler will be worked, and students will be taught a wide range of techniques. Fee: $20.00 members, $25.00 non-members.
January 8 ORGANIC GARDENING 8 week course on Mondays, 7:30 p.m. 10:00 p.m. This is a new course presenting the basics in this increasingly popular approach to gardening. Mr. Donald Harvey, the instructor, is himself a successful organic farmer. Fee: $35.00 members, $40.00 non-members, plus $6.00 for materials.
January 15 BOTANICAL ART 3 week course on Mondays, 10:00 a.m. to3:00p.m. Asmallernumberofclasses,butwithmoretimeavailable to students in each class, are being arranged this winter.
Fee: $35.00 members, $40.00 non-members.
January 18 PERENNIALS 6 week course on Thursdays at 8:00 p.m. Mr. Ken Squires, Ontario s leading grower of perennials, is the instructor in this course. Emphasis will be on new and different perennials that are suitable for our area, although the more familiar plants will be covered as well.
Fee: $35.00 members, $40.00 non-members.
February 19 ADVANCEDNEEDLEPOINT 4weekcourseonMondaysat 1:00 p.m.
Fee: $20.00 members, $25.00 non-members.
March 6 DECOUPAGE 10 week course on Tuesdays at 10:00 a.m. The spring course will deal with the preparation and framing of three-dimensional pictures.
Fee: $38.00 members, $43.00 non-members.
March 22 POT-POURRI AND HERBALBATHS 1-dayworkshop, with asecondintheFall.PotPourrisarenature sowninsectrepellants and air fresheners, and herbal baths beautify and cleanse the skin while relieving sore gardening muscles! The first workshop covers what to plant and how to crop, the second blending.
Fee: $25.00 members, $30.00 non-members.
April 14 LANDSCAPE ART 8 week course on Saturdays, 10:00 a.m. 12:30 p.m. This new course teaches the basic principles of composition, design, perspective and colour, as well as various drawing and oil painting techniques.
Fee: $38.00 members, $43.00 non-members.
April 23 USING PLANTS IN BOUQUETS & RELATED CRAFTS
May 7
3weekDemonstration LecturesonMondaysat 1:30p.m.and 7:30 p.m. These lectures will demonstrate the use ofplant materials in preparing bouquets, and in related crafts.
April 23 PRESERVATION OF FLOWERS, LEAVES ETC.
April 30 PRESSED FLOWERS AND CORN HUSK CRAFTS
May 7 PINE CONE CRAFTS
Fee: $3.00 a session or $8.50 for three members
$3.50 a session or $9.50 for three non-members
May 9 PHOTOGRAPHY 6weekcourseonWednesdaysat8:00p.m.
The joys of photographing our natural world is the Powell s title for their popular course. Equipment, lightingand exposure, colour perception, design and miscellaneous techniques are among the subjects covered.
Fee: $30.00 members, $35.00 non-members.
GROUP AND SPECIALTY GROUP MEETINGS
* Canadian Chrysanthemum & Dahlia Society: Starts at 8:00 p.m. on: January 25, February 22, March 22, April 26, May 24 and June 21.
* Canadian Rose Society: Starts at 7:30 p.m. on: April 12.
* Highrise Gardeners: Starts at 7:30 p.m. on: January 31, March 7, April 4, May 2 and June 6.
* Hobby Greenhouse: Starts at 8:00 p.m. on: January 24, February 28, March 28, April 25, May 23 and June 27.
* Indoor Light Gardening Society: Starts at 8:00 p.m. on: January 10, February 14, March 14, April 11, May 9 and June 13.
Junior Garden Clubs:
* Enthusiasts: 9:45 a.m. to 12:00 noon on: January 20, February 17, March 17, April 21, May 19 and June 16.
* Green Thumbs: 9:45 a.m. to 12:00 noon on: January 13, February 10, March 3, April 14, May 12 and June 9.
* Men s Garden Club: Starts at 8:00 p.m. on: January 2, February 6, March 6, April 3, May 1 and June 5.
Milne House Garden Club: 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. on: January 16, February 20, March 20, April 17, May 15 and June 19.
* Southern Ontario Orchid Society: 1:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m. on: January 7, February 4, March 4, April 1, May 6 and June 3.
* Toronto Bonsai Society: Starts at 8:00 p.m. on: January 8, February 12, March 12, April 16, May 14 at 7:30 p.m., and June 11.
* Toronto Gesneriad Society: 2:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. on: January 14, February 11, March 4, April 8, May 13 and June 10.
Other groups meeting at the Centre are the Garden Club of Toronto and the Garden Therapy Group. Non-members are welcomed to meetings of the groups asterisked.
TRIPS LARGE AND SMALL
On April 4 the first of a series of regular Tuesday morning Bird Walks will start at 8:00 a.m. from the west side ofthe Centre parking lot.
We are still considering the possibility of some Bus Tours in the spring. If you are interested in one or more tours please let us know.
January 10
FLOWER ARRANGING COURSES
JAPANESE FLOWER ARRANGING BEGINNERS 3 week course on Wednesday 10:00 a.m. 3:00 p.m.
Mrs. Kadoguchi, renowned Sensei ofthe Ikenobo School, will again give this very popularcourse. Branchesandflowerswill be provided for approximately $2.50 a day.
Fee: $20.00 members.
February 14
JAPANESE FLOWER ARRANGING ADVANCED 3 week
course on Wednesday 10:00 a.m. 3:00 p.m.
This will be an opportunity for those who have taken previous courses with Mrs. Kadoguchi to test their acquired skills and ingenuity. Intermediate 2 will be a must for all those who enjoy a challenge. Itissuch atreatto cometoclassandnothavetoworry about bringing the correct plant material! For approximately $2.50 per day it will again be provided. Do try to book early as we can only take a limited number of applications.
Fee: $20.00 members.
March 21
April 25
April 26
May 15
June 13
FLOWER ARRANGING WORKSHOPS BASIC COURSE
PART 2 3 weekcourse on Wednesdays, 10:00 a.m. - 3:00p.m. This course is an extension of Basic Flower Arranging into Contemporary Concepts of Floral Design.
Fee: $15.00 members.
BASIC FLOWER ARRANGING 6 week course on Wednesdays, 1:30 p.m. and 8:00 p.m.
This course offers the begmner the principles and elements of good designin flower arranging.
Fee: $15.00 members.
BASICFLOWERARRANGING 6weekcourseonThursdays
1:30 p.m. and 8:00 p.m. See April 25 for details.
Fee: $15.00 members.
FLOWERARRANGING BASICCOURSEPART2 6week course on Tuesdays, 1:30 p.m. and 8:00 p.m.
This course is the same as that offered on March 21, but on a different time schedule.
Fee: $15.00 members.
CAPSULE REVIEW 2 week course on Wednesdays at 10:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.
This is a condensed review in preparation for the Garden Clubs of Ontario course in Judging and Exhibiting Floral Design.
Fee: $10.00 members.
PLANNING AN EVENT?
Reserve space early for your next Horticultural Event Shows Lectures Meetings in our beautiful New Facility Craft and Art Displays or Social Gatherings. RATES & DATES ON REQUEST FROM CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE
University of Guelph
Novice
Farmer Courses at the Centre
The following is the schedule for the University of Guelph s Winter series of NOVICE FARMER COURSES which are being held at the Centre.
Brochures on these courses, including an application form, are available at the Centre s Reception Desk.
Registrations are handled directly by the University of Guelph. The schedule is:
INTRODUCTORY AGRICULTURE 10 weeks starting January 29 WOODLOT MANAGEMENT 3weeks starting February 15
MANAGEMENT 3 weeks starting February 6
INCOME TAX 2 weeks starting February 24
DESIGN 2 weeks starting March 17
FARMING 3 weeks starting February 27
3 weeks starting February 14
MACHINERY 4 weeks starting February 6 REPRODUCTION IN FARM ANIMALS 3 weeks starting February 28
WANTED!!
Plant containers and (later) plants for the Spring Plant Sale on May 1819. Please save plastic food containers for this purpose we always need more! In the next Trellis more details will be given on the plant sale, which is wholly dependent on the plants our members can provide.
THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE 777 Lawrence Ave. E., Don Mills, Ontario
NAME (PRINT) MEMBERSHIP & PHONE NO.
ADDRESS CITY CODE
PLEASE REGISTER ME FOR THE FOLLOWING EVENTS CLASS OR WORKSHOP TIME FEE
O would like to take advantage of reduced rates offered members and enclose $10.00 for my annual fee (add $2.50 for each additional family member) Totalenclosed
Thoughts on foundation planting
by Jim Flovd, LandscapeArchitect
Foundation planting as a stage setting for domestic architectureis a most popular and most overused landscape form in Toronto. For anyone who has thought about foundation planting or may be planning a new one or renewing an old one, I direct this article to you.
Why do you and others want a foundation planting? Homes are well built today. Before subdivision planning was controlled by grading certificates and bonds, builders showed a lack of concern about coordinating their foundation walls with final grades. The unsightly result was exposed basements. It was an easy and cheap decision for a foreman to order more concrete blocks before starting the clay brick courses. Landscaping in those days was correctional. Please cover up the errors.
Generally it may be argued that architecture looks awkward in the landscape and that foundation plantings help soften the lines and blend the structure into its surroundings. This concept is quite acceptable. | prefer a low feathery foundation planting of evergreen groundcovers that give the house the appearance of being settled on a pillow. But my approval does not answer why we like to see a dark fringe around a house.
The psychology of accepting the need for a dark base to complete a composition must relate to an ingrown question
What are shadows?
People tend to respect the unknown. In school we were taught the tonal values of a drawing are CORRECT when the base receives the most emphasis. Maybe since the
stone age humankind has noted the black shadow under the rock and the image is now in our psychology of perception.
Since the turn of the century in North America it has become a rite of passage, almost comparable to puberty, for a building to receive its fringe of foundation plants. At any rate everybody seems to be doing it. All the nurseries are prepared to perpetuate the practice. Balled and burlapped miniature specimens are handy design pieces that can be carried home, placed and arranged and rearranged again to satisfy the artistic eye of the homeowner.
Good foundation planting can improve the facade of a house. Anill defined front door can be given prominence and graciousness by the judicious placement of plants in combination with a designed entrance walk. The tracery of vines over a blank wall, the open structure and fine branchwork of a Flowering Dogwood in front of a picture window, or the bird attracting fruit of a Mock-orange are all reasonable considerations in this form of planting. As long as you select from compact plants like Buxus, Chaenomeles, Chamacyparis, Cotoneaster, Deutzia, Euonymus, Hedera, llex, Juniperus, Mahonia, Muyrica, Pachysandra, Pieris, Pinus mugo, Pyracantha, Spiraea bumalda, Taxus, Thuja and Vinca, your design will not smother the building.
The problems related to foundation planting arise through hurrying to get the job done, not considering or observing the site conditions. The soil near the wall of a house is usually drier than elsewhere for a few reasons. The overhang of eaves may
Spruce and pine planting .
prevent rain falling here. The drainage lines under the house draw off moisture. The backfill at the basement walls is probably sand and/or gravel. The final grading is designed to carry surface runoff away from the house. The house walls reflect sun heat or give off furnace heat. This extra heat condition affects the plant leaves directly and the roots indirectly in the soil.
.. .several years later (drawn from actual photographs).
The spaces at the base of a house become various microclimates. Obuviously the sunny south and shady north should affect plant choices. Too often blue Junipers and small flowering shrubs are misplanted in a north shadow to be near the front door. Upon observing patterns of wind blowing snow clear of an east wall, you may decide against foundation plants where a walkway is
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the obvious landscape element. An alternate use for the foundation planting area is to bury a thick layer of styrofoam insulation parallel to the ground plane all around a heated basement. [ am told it saves energy, even if it apparently rules out traditional planting.
If you still have an interest, the first bigjob is soil preparation. Digging to a depth of half a meter is a probable requirement. Excavate for a planting bed where rain moistens the soil. Otherwise artificial irrigation will be a requirement for the life of the plants. After excavating, haul away about half the volume of the clay soil and all the exhumed building rubble. Mix sand, manure, and garden loam with leftover clay (1:1:2:4). Check the bottom of the planting bed for drainage. Loosen soil on sides and bottom, if impervious. Backfill with soil mix.
Place plants on top of soil and measure distances between specimens to allow for growth. Plants, like children, eventually grow up. Check in reference books to know the probable mature spread of your plants. Plant as usual.
Use fillers. All new foundation plantings have fillers: annual flowers, bulbs, corms, tubers, groundcovers as vinca, etc. and mulches, as wood chips, bark chunks, decorative gravel, and so on. Fillers become less important in later years, but are useful to make a recent planting appear complete without \{_ / overcrowding. A mulch i makes a uniform appearance by equally covering the unexcavated dry areas under the eaves a4 and the actual 72 2% o areas of the kal planting bed.
Mulch for uniform appearance.
If you have an old foundation planting, chances are it appears
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Baja California Feb. 4-Feb. 17
Kenya Nature Safari Feb. 20-Mar. 11
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sheared, oversize, and brown where the evergreens havejoined. Before ripping it out, as the sales representative of a plants company has advised you, try pruning it out. It takes two people, one to cut and the other to stand back hollering yes or no . The main branch structure of a seven foot high Hetz Juniper could prove to have genuine character when exposed. Your new plantings may only need to be filler groundcovers to offset your found objet d art .
Asa final point contesting foundation planting, it is not practised when a building is in a woodlot. That is true because the surrounding trees form foreground and middleground composition features which make a
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design. To experience this compositional quality, now, spread your fingers and hold your palm up to your face. Your hand becomes the foreground, furniture the middleground, and wall the background. Foundation plantings remind me of flat medieval paintings, where people were layered in front of one another. There is no sense of perspective, no foreground. There is almost no potential to create space and volume in this type of landscape. Consider planting a dozen small trees or fifty seedlings with five hundred pieces of lily-of-the-valley in your front yard. If your neighbours question you tell them about stone age people and shadows and rites of passage. Tell them that cool fresh air trees are more important than imported specimen evergreens. Tell them you are not interested in having a lawn and being another stage set like all the houses. For anyone who has thought about foundation planting, | direct this article to you. %
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THORNCRAFTEQUIPMENT
Repairs to all makes of lawn care and snow thrower equipment 222-3144
THE MEN S GARDEN CLUB
At its Annual Meeting on November 7 the Men s Garden Club re-elected Jim Ford as President, with Hal Price Vice-President, Howie Nichols as Treasurer, Art Pack looking after membership and Leonard Harrison on the Committee. The Club meets monthly and male Centre members would be welcomed. The programmes are full of good ideas on gardening, and library volunteers Hiles Carter and Elton Lent look after the book needs ofthe Club.
in the Civic Garden Centre Bookshop $17.95 value for $5.95 RODALE S ENCYCLOPEDIA OF ORGANIC GARDENING
(300 illustrations, 1490 topics and 1145 pages)
An incredible price for a basic reference book Supply is limited SO BUY NOW!
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Whatever your gardening needs are, we ll be pleased to serve you at Reeves Nursery, Ontario s largest climate-controlled garden centre. In the tropical greenery of our five gigantic greenhouses, you ll also find lovely wicker furniture, Canadiana and even an entire section devoted to kitchen ware and gourmet cooking.
¥ We re slightly out of the way, but quite out of the ordinary.
8700 Islington Ave., 2 miles north of Hwy. 7.851-2275.
SEED CATALOGUES
How do you choose?
If you visit the Centre Library and look at the overwhelming contents of the seed catalogues available you might well decide to forget the whole thing. Just one of the major catalogues will offer a bewildering array of choices, with every selection larger, better, or more outstanding than the last.
Let s look at some of the qualities of the various catalogues and see if there is a way to help you choose. One of the first things to think about is the element of choice itself: there are three or four major seed dealers, and they usually offer the widest choice of different varieties. For example, take lettuce seed. Burpee offers 19 or 20 varieties, including 3 or 4 exclusives . Stokes has about the same number, Park about 10 and Dominion Seed House also has 19 varieties of lettuce.
On something like lettuce which is in wide demand, some of the less wellknown seed dealers may have a comparable range, but will not have the comprehensive selections of all flower and vegetable seeds offered by the larger houses. The Ontario Seed Company has 17 lettuce varieties in its 78 catalogue, Jenkins, Gaze s and Alberta Nurseries all had nine and MacFaydens 11. But their catalogues offer a smaller variety of other seeds, not listing less well known flowers and perhaps smaller ranges of others.
Price varies, and often the smaller houses have better prices. This is particularly true now the differential between the U.S. and Canadian dollar is significant. Burpee and Park are both U.S.-based. Many houses have handling charges which you should also look at in considering the best buy.
Finding your way around the larger catalogues isn t easy, and their styles differ widely. Dominion, Stokes and Park all separate flowers and vegetables, but group plants roughly (sometimes very roughly) alphabetically within these divisions. Burpee has no logic we can identify to its arrangement, but it has an index.
The sheer eloquence of the descriptions in some may confuse you, but here comparing one catalogue with another is quite useful, and one description with another even within the same catalogue. Looking at lettuce again, we find that Buttercrunch is more heat tolerant than Bibb, and Butter King less likely to bolt than other Boston types both providing clues to things to watch for, even if you ve never grown lettuce in your life. Stokes get our prize for comprehensive factual descriptions, but all the larger catalogues are jammed with useful information and are handy reference guides. They re almost encyclopedias of what is available and what can be grown.
Vegetable seed is dated but flower seed usually isn t and a few suppliers are not too fussy about ensuring their seed is fresh. This is something you' ll not find in the catalogue, of course, but you should be alert to it. Germination failure may not always be your own fault!
Something else you should consider is hardiness, especially if you re purchasing from a U.S. dealer. Even Canadian seed houses are not too prone to point out problems associated with their plants: if you're trying something new, find outa little about it first. An example here is found in perennial culture. Buying a
package of perennial seed and planting it in the garden on May 24 will produce perennials all right which will bloom next year! If you want bloom in the first year they should be started earlier under lights, but the seed catalogues will not usually tell you this.
Specialized seed suppliers include Midwest Wildflowers for wild plants, Camerons for herbs and wild plants, and Alpenglow for rock plants. Cruickshanks specialize in Holland bulbs; other material leans more to flowers than vegetables.
In sum then, decide first of all what you want: do you need something that yields well, or is particularly flavoursome, or good for cutting, or will bloom through periods of heat, or just where do your priorities lie? Then with these ideas in mind compare prices, descriptions and availability and have fun!
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Alpenglow Gardens, 13328 King George Highway, Surrey, British Columbia, V3T 2T6 Burpee Seeds, Warminster, P.A., 18991, U.S.A. Cameron Nursery, R.R. #2, Cameron, Ontario, KOM 1G0
C. A. Cruickshank Limited, 1015 Mount Pleasant Road, Toronto, M4P 2M1
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Dominion Seed House, Georgetown, Ontario, L7G 4A2
Gaze s Seed Company Limited, 9 Buchanan Street, P.O. Box 640, St. John s, Newfoundland, A1C 5K8 Jenkins Hardware and Seeds, King & Ridout Streets, P.O. Box 2424, London, Ontario, N6A 4G3
McFayden Seed Company Limited, P.O. Box 1600, 30-9th Street, Brandon, Manitoba, R7A 6A6 Midwest Wildflowers, Box 64, Rockton, lllinois, 61072, U.S.A. Ontario Seed Company Limited, P.O. Box 144, Waterloo, Ontario, N2J 3Z9
Geo. W. Park Seed Company, Greenwood, S.C., 29647, U.S.A. The McConnell Nursery Co. Ltd., Port Burwell, Ontario, NOJ 1TO Stokes Seeds Limited, 39 James Street, Box 10, St. Catharines, Ontario, L2R 6R6 %
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In the Centre s Library
Some books on flower arrangement for the beginner:
ASCHER, Amalie Adler. THE COMPLETE FLOWER ARRANGER. Simon & Schuster, 1974.
Starting with chapters on the principles of design, this well illustrated book takes the reader through all aspects and styles of the art of flower arranging.
JOHNS, Leslie and STEVENSON, Violet. THE WORLD OF HOUSE PLANTS AND FLOWER ARRANGING, Galahad Books, 1975.
Has many colour plates, and covers the use of house plants as decoration, pot-et-fleur and basic flower arranging.
TAYLOR, Jean. CREATIVE FLOWER ARRANGEMENT. Stanley Paul, 1973.
A must for beginners and the more experienced alike.
NEHRLING, Arno and Irene. FLOWER GROWING FOR FLOWER ARRANGEMENT. Hearthside, 1969.
This book covers not only selection and cultivation of annuals and perennials but useful sections on shrubs and trees, bulbs and vegetables, as well as chapters on forcing and drying plant material.
Pamela MacKenzie, Librarian Civic Garden Centre
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Children ofall ages find Clargreen Gardens a fascinating place. In particular, they enjoy the thousands of strange shaped and coloured cactus plants. Ofinterest too, are the carnivorous plants...VenusFly Traps, Cobra Lilies and Pitcher plants. When you visit Clargreen you ll experience a visit to another world. . and now is the time to see our wide selection of orchids and other exotic indoor plants. Come and see us soon... and bring the kids! | OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK
Plants for an Eastern Exposure, which receive direct morning sun from sunrise to near midday, upper left: a. Dizygotheca elegantissima (False Aralia); b. Nephrolepis exaltata bosteniensis (Boston Fern); c. Ficus benjamina (Weeping Fig); d. Dracaena reflexa; e. Begonia rex cultivar (Rex Begonia); f. Dryopteris (Fern); g. Cordyline terminalis (Hawaiian Ti); h. Tolmeia menziesii (Piggyback); i. Saintpaulia lonantha (African Violet); j. Polyscias (Ming Aralia); k. Aeschynanthus radicans (Lipstick Vine); I. Sinningia speciosa (Gloxinia); and m. Tradescantia (Wandering Jew).
Plants for a Northern Exposure, which receive the least light, top left: a. Spathiphyllum Clevelandii (Spathe Flower); b. Cissus rhombifolia (Grape lvy); c. Adiantum (Maidenhair Fern); d. Aglaonema (Chinese Evergreen); e. Philodendron panduiforme (Fiddle-leaf Philodendron); f. Dracaena massangeana (Corn Plant); g. Chamaedorea elegans (Dwarf Parlor Palm); h. Scindapsus aureus (Pothos); i. Dieffenbachia amoena (Dumb Cane); and j. Ficus pumila (Creeping Fig). Pictures courtesy of Chevron Chemical (Canada) Ltd.
