ONINAJHVO ANV 401 1DILHOH
178 DON MILLS
Third Troisidme ciass classe
ANIZVOVIA
MARIGOLD QUEEN SOPHIA
All-America Selections 4 Bronze Medal 1979
Named in honour of the Queen of Spain, Queen Sophia has dark bronzy red blossoms which mature to reddish gold embellished with gold banding.
In the dwarf French marigold class, plants of Queen Sophia grow to a uniform height of 10 to 12 inches at maturity and round out to perfect mounds sheathed with 2 to 215 inch blossoms. Blossoms have an unusual . flat petalled conformation without the crest that distinguishes most French marigolds.
Canada s most talked about , horticultural product.
P Zoo Poo is one of nature s finest COMPOSTED 200 ANIMAL MANURE i £ For haithietsiants ad 11 . organic plant foods. Makes every Makes all plantsgrowbetter thing you grow, grow better. $ Each package includes a Zoopon . 50¢ off regular admission to the Metro Toronto Zoo.
Hillview Farms Ltd. (Est. 1836) Woodstock, Ont. (519) 537-7942 Toronto (a16) 231-0589 HILLVIEW
Marigold Queen Sophi
March,
1979
Volume 6, Number 2
In this issue
Cover picture of Potinara Carousel Crimson Triumph by George Horne.
Beginningwith orchids/5
Canadian water gardening/11
Alternatives to pesticides/14
Large flowered clematis/16
How to get a garden plot/20
Book Reviews/21
Now is the time/24
Houseplants/29
Tools for the Block Gardener/32
Publication Committee
James Floyd (Chairman), Jerry Maccabe, Pat Rogal, Mary Smith, Clive E. Goodwin
Editor: Fredrik Kirby
Advertising: Shirley Kirby (416) 226-0996
Graphics and Printing Drewmark Graphics, Toronto General Information issn 0301470
Trellis is published in the months of January, March, May, July, September, and November and distributed on or about the 15th ofthe month previous by the Civic Garden Centre, 777 Lawrence Avenue East, Don Mills, Ontario M3C 1P2. Telephone: (416) 445-1552. The Centre is located in Edwards Gardens, at Leslie Street and Lawrence Avenue East, the geographical centre of Metropolitan Toronto. It is a non-profit gardeningand floral arts information organization with open membership. Subscriptions to Trellis are only available through Centre membership (10 per year). Opinions expressed within do not necessarily reflect those of the Centre.
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Beoinning with Orchids
by Ellen Blankstein
What is an orchid? leading orchidist Rebecca Northen states that orchids are the most highly specialized plants in their line of evolution topping the lilies and the irises. Orchids grow wild all over the world but most live in the tropics where they grow on trees or cliffs. Many orchids are epiphytes; epi means above or on, and phyte means plant. They are not parasites as they are commonly labelled but merely grow where they can secure themselves and where they may find humus material such as dead leaves to provide them with nutrition. In addition to the epiphytic orchids there is a group of orchids which live on the floor of the forest or near rivers in a spongy humus material and they are called terrestrial orchids.
Looking through a greenhouse filled with orchids or a book or catalogue of orchids, one is amazed by the diversity in form and size of plants and flowers. Some orchids are huge and showy while others are microscopic; some are pale and delicate in colour while others are boldly striped or spotted and vibrant incolour. Indeed, there are close to 25,000 known species of orchids.
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Many of these species have been hybridized to create even more variety. One of the fascinations of orchid growing is that orchids can be crossed intergenerically creating completely new-looking flowers.
Orchid growing has long been associated with people of great wealth or fame. Men like Arthur Freed, Raymond Burr and the fictitious character Nero Wolfe grew orchids. In the nineteenth century wealthy Europeans sent out expeditions to collect the elusive orchid. Therefore it has commonly been assumed that orchid growing was only for the wealthy. Today, nothing could be farther from the truth. Commercial greenhouses specializing in orchids sell plants which can be ordered by catalogue for no morethan the price of any houseplant, and a sunny windowsill, sun room or light set-up can provide an adequate growing place. Moreover, many varieties of orchids are no more difficult to grow than many houseplants.
It is easiest to grow orchids in a greenhouse but as long as you provide for thefive basic needs of orchids you may grow many kinds of
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orchids on your windowsill or under light. These needs are adequate light intensity, fairly high humidity with good air circulation, a suitable temperature range and an appropriate potting medium. With reference to light, orchids may be divided into three groups, that is, those requiring low medium or high light requirements. A humidity of from 50% to 70% is best for orchid culture but because of the high humidity, there must be good air circulation in your growing area in order to prevent fungus diseases. The atmosphere should be light and buoyant, not heavy and damp. There are warm, intermediate and cool growing orchids with the following corresponding day and night temperature range(s): warm 75° 80°F. day, 65° 70° F. night; intermediate 70° 80° F. day, 60° 650 F. night; and cool 60° 70° F. day and 50° F. night. These are approximate temperatures and often plants that are supposed to be grown cool do very well in intermediate conditions so there is room for flexibility. Most orchids require a 10 degree drop in night temperature to initiate flower spikes.
The potting material must be suitable to the plant you are growing and they vary widely from species to species and plant to plant. In general, the material must be porous to allow good root ventilation and must also allow water to drain easily in order to prevent the roots from rotting. Osmunda fibre, chopped tree fern and shredded fir bark are most widely used for epiphytic orchids while various mixes which may include shredded bark, spagnum moss and other tree fibres are used for terrestrial orchids. When you buy your plant you should ask to be provided with cultural information necessary for that plant.
Watering will vary depending on
your plant and your growing conditions. Epiphytic orchids should be allowed to become fairly dry before being thoroughly watered again whereas terrestrial orchids should be kept moist. Usually one or two waterings per week are sufficient. As with houseplants over-watering is generally the beginners biggest mistake. Fertilizers such as 30-10-10 or 20-20-20 are recommended, but should be diluted to 1/4the strength suggested.
In a greenhouse it is easy to furnish orchids with their basic needs. Plants may be positioned where they will get more or less light or warmth. Some shading will be necessary in the spring, summer and early fall. Fans operating day and night will provide the necessary air circulation and humidity can be raised by means of a fogging nozzle or other device.
If you choose to grow on a windowsill or in a sunroom, a southern exposure (curtain-filtered in summertime) is perhaps best, but an east or west window may be fine for species with lower light requirements. Humidity can be raised by putting your orchid plants on a wire mesh
Paphiopedilum fairieanum ;i
placed abovea tray filled with pebbles and water. Under no circumstances should plants be placed on top of or near a radiator.
Under lights orchids with low to medium light requirements will need a minimum of four 40 watt fluorescent tubes, preferably two Glo-lux wide spectrum, one cool white and one daylight tube or simply four Vitalite tubes. The lights should be hung about 6 above the plants and should be left on for a minimum of 12 hours per day. Light units can often be enclosed in plastic allowing humidifiers and fans to operate simulating the airy humid conditions orchids seem to like best. You can also put your light set-up adjacent to a window in order to increase light intensity and therefore also increase the variety of plants you will be able to grow.
There are quite a number of easyto-grow orchids for the beginner, a few of which will be listed below. A word of caution; as a beginner do buy mature, well-established plants in pots, rather than on slabs. Not only will a well-established plant flower soon, but it will also be able to withstand a change in growing conditions. Although tiny seedlings are very inexpensive, they require more care in handling and may be two to eight years or more away from flowering. Good mature plants can be purchased at a very reasonable cost and will give you a feeling of success right away.
A|Phalaenopsis is an excellent choice for a first orchid plant. They are fequently called the Moth Orchid and are often used in bridal bouquets. Phalaenopsis plants have attractive foliage and with good culture once they are in bloom they produce a spray of ten or more flowers that will last for a month. Frequently, successive flower spikes are formed to extend the flowering
period. Hybrid white and pink phalaenopsis are the most usual colours, but in recent years hybridizers have introduced spotted, candy-striped, yellow and green varieties. As with other species, further possibilities are yet to be explored.
Phalaenopsis require a warm, moist, low light condition making them easy to grow in the house. They prefer a 65°F night temperature and 75° 80°F day temperature. It is best to begin with the hybrid pink and whites as they are quite vigorous growers.
Paphiopedilums are closely allied to our native North American ladyslipper and like their kin they are terrestrial orchids. They are characterized by a cup-like lip called a pouch. Their foliage is attractive and many species of paphiopedilum may be grown with ease under lights or on
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a windowsill. To oversimplify, paphiopedilums with mottled leaves may be grown shaded or in low light conditions and in an intermediate temperature range. The green-leaved varieties are cool-growing and require cooler nights to set buds. A beginner is best to begin with a warmer growing paph and after experiencing success move on (if you wish) to the cooler hybrids. Some warmer paph species are P. Maudiae, P. callosum, P. barbatum, and the cooler P. venustum, P. insigne and P. fairieanum as well as a host of modern hybrids.
When people think of orchids, they generally think of the Cattleya, the large showy orchid used in corsages. By and large it is easier to grow cattleyas in a greenhouse, but because of a fleshy pseudobulb which serves as a reservoir cattleyas are quite sturdy and are good plants for a beginner. Cattleyas can be divided into two basic groups; the labiata or one-leaved cattleyas which have large flowers and broad petals and the bifoliate or two-leaved cattleyas which have smaller, more numerous flowers that are often brightly coloured. Cattleyas do best in an intermediate temperature range and should be given as much light as possible without burning their leaves. Hybrids with Sophronitis bred into it often do very well under lights orona windowsill while most bifoliates require more light than can be provided for them under lights. Cattleyas have been bred with laelias, brassavolas and sophronitis creating great confusion for a beginner wondering whatisan L.C., B.L.C,, S.L.C. or Potinara. Be assured that they are all hybrids of cattleyas, but also do check with the grower when buying that your conditions are suitable for that particular plant. Oncidiums are often called the Dancing Lady orchid as many of
the species resemble dolls in costume dancing on tall arching stems. The large number of species and great diversity of colour, size and culture makes it difficult to generalize about oncidiums, however they are quite adaptable and some can be grown in intermediate temperature ranges and moderate light intensity. A few suggested oncidiums are O. cheirophorum, O. ornithorrhyncum, and O. flexuosum. Or try some equitant oncidiums which are a miniature fan-leaved species that produce sprays of charming brightly coloured flowers such as O. desertorum, O. triquetrum, O. tetrapetalum or various hybrids that are now available.
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Paphiopedilum venustum
with Cymbidiums. Their flowers are extremely longlasting and the plant is é M@tI OTOI OIltOZOO quite easily grown if it is given as i much light as possible during the spring and summer months preferably out of doors and is kept quite cool anda little drier in the winter. Standard Cymbidiums are large plants so it is suggested that you begin with the miniature hybrid cymbidiums.
These are just a few suggestions for the beginner. To learn more about growing orchids, you should visit orchid greenhouses, orchid shows and contacy your local orchid society. There is also a good deal of information on orchids available in the Civic Garden Centre s library and book shop. Some books you might ask for are listed below.
Handbook on Orchid Culture, American Orchid Society, Botanical Museum of Harvard University, Cambridge, Mass. U.S.A. 02138
Home Orchid Growing, Northen, Rebecca T., Van Nostrand Reinhold Company, New York.
Orchids as Houseplants, Northen, Rebecca T., Dover
N i ey Publications, New York.
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Canadian Water Gardening
by Larry and Sue See
Welcome to the creative, fascinating, relaxing world of water gardening! A little time, space and imagination are all that are needed to enjoy the pleasures of gardening with water. People of Europe, United Kingdom and the Orient have long considered water as an integral part of the garden. The focus may be upon flowers and plants or ornamental fish. In spite of our severe climate, garden pools are becoming increasingly popular with Canadian gardeners.
The inherent fascination of water is well known, and gardening with water offers a relaxing, soothing change from to-day s hectic pace. Establishing a water garden is easy; the hardest part is digging the hole. Once planted, the pool virtually takes care of itself, no hoeing or weeding is necessary
Location of the pool is the first consideration. The ideal site is somewhat sheltered, providing maximum sunlight, although some water lilies and aquatic plants will perform in partial shade. Avoid overhanging trees, where falling leaves as well as shade will reduce growth in the pool.
A central pool, highlighting the garden, a bubbling waterfall and rockgarden pool, or a tiny patio pool are some possibilities. Pool shapes may be formal or, more commonly, irregular and informal. A large deep pool, a shallow reflecting pool, moving water or complete stillness choose the one that best suits you and the effect you wish to create in your garden.
To-day, modern materials and techniques make pool construction s
Moorei water lilies
easy for the average handyman. Reinforced concrete is still a possibility but is generally too costly and complicated. Just as the introduction of P.V.C. liners has revolutionized the swimming pool industry, similar liners have made water gardening available to all, efficiently and economically. P.V.C. liners are longlasting, flexible, easily installed and quite inexpensive.
Cheaper plastic liners are also possible but lack many advantages of the P.V.C. Both types of liners allow an unlimited range of shapes and sizes. Pre-formed pools are available in semi-rigid plastic and more durable fibreglass.
Pools may be constructed above or below ground with depths varying from 18 to 36 . Deeper water allows a wider choice of plants and fish as well as the overwintering of plants outdoors. A depth of 12 allows a more limited range of plants. Ledges may be used for shallow water marginals or their planting containers may be set on blocks at the required depth. Flagstone, rockery, plants and sod may be used to finish the edges of the pool.
Do your own thing! Poolscape to complement your over-all landscape
design, be it contemporary, formal, casual or Oriental. The possibilities of water as an ornamental feature are unlimited!
Let s look at some ofthe plants available for the pool. Nymphacea or Water Lilies, both hardy and tropical, are, of course, the stars of the pool.
Hardy lilies may be treated as perennials. Hybrid hardies come in all colors and shades except blue.
Tropical lilies with their exotic flowers and fragrance are easy to grow and usually treated as annuals. Tropicals encompass the entire color spectrum. Night blooming tropicals add a special touch of elegance to the pool after dark, especially when close to a patio or highlighted with garden or pool lights.
A wide range of hardy and tropical marginal plants add finishing touches to the pool scape. Papyrus, Cyperus, Cattail and Taro give height, while low growing water poppy and parrot feather soften pool perimeter. Water hyacinths and water lettuce simply float on the surface; other plants grow completely submerged, adding oxygen to the water.
Most Canadians, young and old, will delight in the addition of fish to the pool. Goldfish varieties range
HOW TO PLANT YOURLILY POOL
from Comets to Fantails and Orandas. Colorful Japanese Koi are very popular, often becoming tame enough to eat out of your hands. Goldfish assist in keeping undesireable insects such as mosquitoes under control.
Water snails and tadpoles act as scavengers, feeding upon decayed vegetation. Turtles and frogs may complete the animal population.
Aquatic plants need very little care other than the initial planting and periodic fertilizing. Microscopic algae growth may cause greenish water shortly after planting. This is a natural occurrence and will soon clear as an ecological balance is achieved between plants and nutrients in the water.
The sight and sound of moving water can induce a cooling, relaxing feeling during the hot days of summer. Waterfalls are easily created using a submersible pump and a piece of plastic hose. The waterfall itself may be made of rock, P.V.C. Liner or fibreglass and the water is simply recirculated between the pool and waterfall.
A fountain can be added to the pool anytime. The same principle of a submersible recirculating pump is used in conjunction with a fountain head. Fountain heads come in a wide range of spray patterns and sizes.
Small fountains and waterfalls help to aerate and clarify the water, and produce an outstanding effect when combined with underwater lights. A waterfall or fountain illuminated from beneath the surface of the water is a breathtaking sight after dark.
Preparation of the pool for winter is relatively simple. Hardy lilies and aquatics may be overwintered in the pool provided it does not freeze to the bottom. Covering the pool will give added protection. If freezing is a problem, hardy lilies may be stored in a cool basement or garage where
they must be kept moist at all times. Dead leaves and debris should be cleared from the pool before freeze-up. Pumps and accessories must be removed and stored. As soon as the ice leaves in the spring, the water garden will again come to life.
The Canadian gardening enthusiast can add character, charm and atmosphere with the introduction of water to his garden. With very little effort and expense, a garden area can be transformed into a refreshing, satisfying oasis for the spring, summer and fall months. One can grow exotic unusual aquatic plants and flowers. Water gardening is the art of using water, still or flowing, along with aquatic plants, to form a focal point in the garden. Water is a liquid asset in any garden! *
Larry andSue See are authorities on thefascinatingpursuit ofwater gardening.
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Alternatives to pesticides
CHEMICALS OR BUG-JUICE, THAT IS THE QUESTION or IS THAT TIN IN THE FRIG.ANIMAL, VEGETABLE, OR MINERAL?
byMary Smith
The recent rash of articles in the Trellis on the limited need for spraying, attracting birds to the garden, and then again, the readiness to spray earwigs with whatever comes to hand, tempts me to add a few ecological ideas:
Qver the years | have become more and more cautious about sudden chemical cures . A worse pest always seems to be activated.
My introduction to the field of spraying was in a new garden. Its use was intended to be preventative. The fatal chemical brew consisted of a fungicide, an insecticide, and a compatible miticide. After one season of religious adherence to the spray program, there was an explosion of billions of slugs that climbed the trees, traced patterns on the doors and windows, and covered every leaf in the garden with silvery trails.
We stayed indoors that summer, and we were cured. No more spraying except for spot emergencies we vowed, and after about three years the garden recovered. Soon after, our youngest became interested in the garden. He told us which flowers tasted best, when the snapdragons were ready to eat, and he chased the rabbit for eating his favorite yellow pansies. Every day he learned something new. You can imagine what that did to our awareness of chemical spraying. Since then we have found many simpler and saner methods.
Aphids on the roses can be foiled by keeping a sharp lookout in the early summer every time there is a wind from the South. The first aphid adventurers that land on the roses can easily be wiped off with a finger, and after the first two or three flying invasions we don t seem to get any more for the year. We don t have many rose bushes, but they are the same ones we planted there over twenty years ago, and they still grow roses.
In our garden we have had aphids in all colours of the rainbow, red, blue, yellow, white, green and black, each appearing on its favorite host just in time to ruin the bloom. We changed plant species.
Now, there are newer ideas being tested across North America so anyone can grow whatever they can provide reasonable growing conditions for.
Bugjuice is one answer. And if you have no stomach for that, untouched (uneaten) varieties of leaves are also working well, but have not been so extensively documented as yet.
The recipe is the same in both cases The kitchen blender is pressed into service to make a strong bug-and/or-leaf-and-herb perfusion in water. This concoction is strained, then diluted with water and sprayed on the plant to be protected.
Theories on HOW it works stretch the imagination, but everyone seems to agree that it does work.
Fresh redhot pepper acts as a repellent for rabbits, mice and deer when used with Wilt Pruf or other antidessicant (a thin plastic coat, diluted with water and sprayed, dries on newly planted trees and shrubs to prevent their drying and sunscalding. When used in the fall, many trees and shrubs are being planted successfully in our area). If new foliage attractive to deer is kept hot peppered it will not be eaten, although it will be tested frequently.
Chewing insects dislike hot peppers too. One theory has it that a plant can be marked by the fragrance of another, thus foiling egglayers into believing they have not yet arrived at the right plant. Some say that insects mark out territory like wolves do, and once the place is taken, no others will invade.
The theory of disease contributes the idea that a pandemic can be initiated among a crowded insect population by the simple expedient of collecting, say, 50 specimens (the sicker the better) of the pest, running them through the long-suffering blender, then straining, diluting and spraying the bugjuice on their fellows. The word is that these soon stop eating (which is the main objective) and eventually pass on the disease to the surrounding unsprayed area.
Bacillus thuringiensis, sold as Dipel, works this way on larvae of insects of the order Lepidoptera, (caterpillars, including the Spruce budworm). But you can probably find
comes, and make your own .
After the next one, you may feel that a second top to your blender (clearly marked) may be the answer to your bug problems. The first garden pest that the bugjuice method was widely tried on, and found to be successful across the continent, was the slug. We probably all know how good beer is, especially Molson s Golden, at attracting and drowning slugs. But reports have been coming in from across North America for the past two years on bugjuice, a much more ecomonical method. Apparently the slugs move out, or at least disappear after the garden is labelled occupied by slugs .
Amazing.
For years we have had to keep out from under inchworm infested trees for about fourteen days a year, and the same goes for the Scots Pines with their sawfly larvae. This season we had no trouble. Whatever the reason, we are now armed: the freezer holds concentrated icecubes of ammunition for several species of pests, just in case.
Hard insects like beetles and true bugs can be immobilized to dry up if diatomaceous earth (sold as Fossil Flower) is dusted where they are likely to come in contact with it. It works on the mechanical principle of blocking movement at the joints, and is equally effective at ruining machinery which depends on close tolerance for movement, like a watch or a hinge, or your favourite garden clippers.
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L f Clzperits
by James Ford
Clematis are very hardy flowering vines and grow well in any location open to the sky, with suitable soil, and a minimum of six hours sunshine daily.
They have five chief requirements for successful cultivation: a welldrained, rich, friable, alkaline soil, a cool root run, the lower stems shaded and a mulch.
Planting a clematis is similar to planting a rose. Dig a hole at least 18 inches deep and, if possible, equally wide. The subsoil at the bottom should be broken up and a layer of broken bricks or flower pot fragments added for good drainage. The soil should contain an ample supply of good garden compost or well rotted manure. Add a cup of bone meal and a cup of agricultural lime, and mix with the soil. If manure is used, don t add the lime until about a month later when it should be sprinkled on the surface of the ground. (Lime and manure are incompatible.) Broken up plaster mixed with composted soil is also very good,; it holds moisture and releases the lime gradually. The use of peat moss is not advised; it is too acid.
When the hole is halffull, mound and firm the soil. Remove the plant from the pot, straighten the roots carefully and spread them over the mound with the crown two inches below the usual soil level. Be very careful not to kink the stem. Fill up
the hole, firm the soil, and water well. Provide a bamboo stake for the plant to climb, and something to shade the lower stems, i.e. a shingle, a weeping tile as a collar or another plant. Also place a flagstone near the stem, over the roots; it s always cool and moist under a stone. When the plant has started to grow the tip of the growing shoot can be pinchedout to induce branching. This can be repeated later as growth proceeds.
If you can make your own selection at a nursery, try to get a plant with a forked stem so that at the time of planting, one stem can be pegged down and covered with a small handful of light soil. If tended carefully this will root and you ll have two plants.
Pruning - In spring, usually in early March when the buds swell and are showing green, cut the stems at a node orjoint, eight or twelve inches from the ground. Most clematis flower on new wood and cutting back has a tendency to force new growth from the crown below the ground. Also, this prevents the growth from becoming leggy. However, the varieties Nelly Moser and Duchess of Edinburgh, bloom on last year s wood and should not be cut back. (I've always treated Henryi, the white clematis the same way.)
Varieties Recommended: Jackmanii, purple; Nelly Moser, very beautiful, pale mauvish pink, early;
ClematisJackma
Henryi, white six inch blooms; Gipsy Queen, large rich dark crinkly purple with yellow anthers; W. E..Gladstone, very large, heavenly-blue flowers from June to late October; Ernest Markham, free flowering, lovely petunia-red blooms from July to September; Comtesse de Bouchaud, or Bouchard, free blooming pink; Mme. Baron Veillard, free blooming silvery-lilac flowers moderate in size, blooms until frost, grows 10 to 12 feet; Ramona, lavender-blue blooms, August & September; Ville de Lyon, abundance of carmine red flowers, July to September, grows 10 to 12 feet.
Winter Protection
In late fall, protect with excelsior, phlox or mum stems. Avoid use of leaves which might mat down and smother the plant. However, dry leaves are very useful during the heat of the summer in mulching the ground around a growing plant to conserve the moisture and in keeping the ground cool.
< Feeding
Clematis are gross feeders and respond well to fertilizer. The vigour of the plant must be kept up. Ifwellrotted manure is available, a liberal application should be made otherwise a formulation such as 5-10-5 can be applied and, if the size of the flowers is decreasing, applications of liquid manure once a fortnight will prove very beneficial. When cuttingthe flowers for the house or for a show, burn the ends of the stems to prevent wilting.
Finally, if a clematis doesn t come up in early spring, don t give it up for dead. Tend it carefully keep it watered, preferably with liquid fertilizer. Perhaps shade from a nearby tree is shading it from the early spring sunshine. [ have had them come up in June and bloom beautifully that year. James Ford ispresident of the Men s Garden Club, Civic Garden Centre.
246 QUEEN ST. E.,TORONTO,CANADA MS5A 1S3 (416) 363-6394
NATURE TOURS...
This time, take a trip with a difference . . . go with a naturalist and explore all aspects of natural history.
Big Bend, Texas Mar. 25-Apr. 2 Arizona Apr. 2-15
Costa Rica-Birding Apr. 7-23
Great Smokies Apr. 13-22
Easter Island/Peru Apr. 14-26
Galapagos/Ecuador/ Amazon Apr. 26-May 14
Write for our free Catalog of Tours. As a registered travel agency, we can look after all your travel needs.
EVENTS IN MARCH AND APRIL COURSES
Four new courses are announced.
March 17 HOME GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS 4 weeks on Saturdays at 10.00 a.m.
The course will cover growing conditions, vegetables, annuals, perennials, roses and propagation. Fee $15.00
March 19 DECORATED GLASSWARE DECOUPAGE 6 weeks on Tuesdays at 10.00 a.m. Fee: $25.00 members $30.00 nonmembers
April 10 BASIC GARDENING 4weeks on Mondays at 10.00 a.m. Fee: Members $12.00, non-members $15.00
April 23 FOUR-WAY BARGELLO AND PULLED THREAD and May14 EMBROIDERY WORKSHOPS. Fee: for each $10.00 members $12.00 non-members
Other Courses and Workshops starting in this period will be:
March 6 DECOUPAGE Three Dimensional Pictures
March 21 FLOWER ARRANGING BASIC COURSE PART 2
March 22 POT-POURRI AND HERBAL BATHS
April 14 LANDSCAPE ART
April 23, 30, & May 7 USING PLANT MATERIALS IN BOUQUETS
April 25-26 FLOWER ARRANGING BASIC COURSE |
May 8 FLOWER ARRANGING BASIC COURSE PART 2 (announced in the Calendar for May 15)
May 9 PHOTOGRAPHY
Please refer to the January Trellis for more details on these courses. An applicationform is provided on page 27.
SPECIAL EVENTS
Underlisted are the special Centre and horticultural events in the period. Please note there have been some changes from the last issue.
March 9-11 In the Victorian Manner A Special Presentation by the Garden Club of Toronto 10.00 a.m. to 9.00 p.m. Friday and Saturday 12.00 noon 6.00 p.m. Sunday
March 25- Canadian NatureArt Exhibition (Studios) April 16 BotanicalArtExhibition (Lower Link)
Hours 10.00 a.m. to 9.00 p.m. weekdays 10.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m. Saturdays 1.00 p.m. to 4.00 p.m. Sundays
March 29 8.30 p.m. The Dunington Grubb Memorial Lecture: Alan Paterson of the Chelsea Physic garden
April 3 First ofaregular seriesofTuesdaymorningbirdwalks (8.00a.m.)
April 6
April 18
April 21
May 4
May 10
May 12-13
May 15
May 27
Canadian Rose Society, Spring Meeting 8.00 p.m.
HorticulturalNight at the Centre
7.30 p.m. Centre Annual Meeting
8.00 p.m. Dr. Don Gunn with an illustrated talk on Canada s Native Orchids
Annual Meeting of District 5 Horicultural Societies
Show and Demonstrations of Centre Crafts
Come and see work by the instructors in the full range of crafts taught at the Centre. 10.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m.
Rhododendron Society Auction 7.00 p.m.
Southern Ontario Orchid International Show
12.00 a.m. noon-5.00 p.m. Saturday 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. Sunday
Milne House Garden Club Show 10.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m.
Toronto African Violet Society 11.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m.
NOTICE OF ANNUAL MEETING
7.30 p.m. April 18 in the Dunington Grubb Floral Hall
To approve accounts, elect directors, appoint an auditor and transact any such otherbusiness as may come before the meeting.
ELSEWHERE
March 10
March 20
March 29-
April 1
April 1-4
May 12-26
Royal Botanical Gardens: Maple Syrup Tour 10.45 a.m.
Rock ChapelExhibit continuesto April 1, 10.00 a.m. to4.30p.m.
Audubon Wildlife Films: Dennis Holt on Okefenokee, Land of Trembling Earth . OISE Auditorium 8.15 p.m.
(Tickets Eaton s Attraction Office)
Fanshawe College Tour to Chicago Flower Show
Pickup will be from the Centre parking lot
More details from Dan Link 1-519-452-4425
Williamsburg Garden Symposium, Williamsburg, Va.
Holland and the Chelsea Flower Show. Note the new dates! Cost $699.00. Application forms available at the Centre
WANTED
Plant Containers four and six packs for the May Plant Sale. We now have enough other containers and thank you. Don t forget we will need plants for the sale annuals and perennials are best, including such plants as hosta which are not always available elsewhere. If you can remember the name of the varieties you have that is ideal, but otherwise please include the colour on your labels. More details on the sale including when to bring plants in the next Trellis.
HOW TO GET A GARDEN PLOT
by CliveE. Goodwin
Most of the Boroughs and the City of Toronto operate rental garden plots. If you don t have a garden of your own this is a chance to rent an area outdoors where you can grow some of your produce and flowers. There s a good demand for these plots, so unfortunately you might be unable to get one the year you apply. In this case your name will be put on a waiting list and you ll be notified when your turn arrives.
Most plots are rented from early May to late October. Usually some ploughing or rototilling is provided, and water supplies are made available. Regulations, plot sizes and fees vary from one municipality to another, but ratesare about $1.00 for 20-25 square feet and generally existing lot holders are given preference when allocating space. In some boroughs you must be a borough resident, and most give priority in allocation to their own residents.
Underlisted are the plot locations in each borough, with their cost and the address or person to contact.
ETOBICOKE
Plots are $20.00 each, but are all taken at present. Telephone the Parks and Recreation Department at 626-4244 to be put on the waitinglist. Plots are located at Titan Rd. in the Queensway and Islington Ave. area, at West Deane near Martin Grove and Rathburn Rds., off Guided Court near Martin Grove and Albion Rds., and on La Rose Ave., north of Eglinton Ave. off Royal York Rd. Etobicoke also has a greenhouse allotment programme from October to June. The greenhouses are off Scarlett Rd. north of Lawrence Ave. and a 10 x 4 plot costs $100. a season.
EASTEastYORK
York s programme is run through Thorncliffe Park Gardening Club (M. Gonsalves, 423-2034), but no plots are available at present and there is a very long waiting list.
NORTH YORK
Plots are $20.00. Write to the Parks and Recreation Department, Borough of North York, 5100 Yonge St., Willowdale M2N 5V7. If no vacancies exist you will be put on a waiting list, and will be contacted by mail when one becomes available.
There are two locations: Bishop Ave., near Willowdale and Finch Aves., and Four Winds Dr., in the Keele St. Finch area.
SCARBOROUGH
Plots are $10.00, and available by writing the Recreation and Parks Department, Borough of Scarborough, 150 Borough Dr., Scarborough M1P 4N7. The areas are off Daventry Rd. west of Markham Rd., and Givendale Rd. west of Kennedy Rd., and any over flow has been directed to a privately organized area off Kingston Rd.
TORONTO CITY
The city has 10 x 15 plots at the foot of Leslie Street, rentingfor $10.00 and 10 x 30 plots in High Park and in Sadra Park (off Old Weston Rd. north ofSt. Clair Ave., W.) renting for $20.00. Contact the Department of Parks & Recreation (367-7251) in early February for alot, which are distributed on a first come basis.
YORK
Plots are $20.00 aseason and can be obtained by phoning Parks and Recreation Department (653-2700 ext. 281). The area is off Jane St. south ofFoxwell St. *
Book Reviews
SUCCULENTS AND THEIR CULTIVATION
by
Margaret J. Martin and Peter R. Chapman. Faber and
Faber, 1977.
A smallish volume, dealing quite impressively with the commonly known as well as the esoterics, such as the caudiciform plants, which have a chapter to themselves. The book is British, so plants barely hardy in England must be considered non hardy here. The index is good, but there is no listingofseed suppliers and the illustrations are few.
The book follows the latest taxonomic decisions, but previous nomenclature is always included. Explanation of names from their Greek or Latin origins should be of help in remembering botanical names popular names are rarely given. The authors are themselves practical growers, which lends authority to their advice about potting mediums and difficult things like resting periods. General information of this kind is given in the introduction, but idiosyncrasies of plants are mentioned in the plants own section, e.g. Crassulas do not like Malathion; Sanseviera leaves grow from the tip only, so a broken leaf does not grow further, etc. It is useful information of this kind together with interesting little histories of the plants discovery that makes the book absorbing reading, even for the non-converted.
Pamela MacKenzie
THE GROWTH OF GARDENS
by Richard Gorer, (211 pp. Oxford University Press $24.50)
Acomprehensive history of plant collection including the plants collected, collectors how-tos and the collectors themselves.
From the earliest times European explorers, looking for new trade routes, were also fascinated by new flora and brought home seeds and examples of flowering plants from India and China. This casual collecting grew to be a business and a passion in the 18th and 19th centuries as plant explorers travelled the world for gardeners and collectors, many of whom carried garden one-upmanship to an exotic degree.
The Growth of Gardens documents fully and well the details of plant collecting in North and South America, India, China, Japan and the Antipodes. The text is delightfully coloured by fascinating quotes such as Kingdon-Ward' s reaction on first viewing a new primula, Was | dreaming, I rubbed my eyes and looked again. . . a vivid blush pink flower stood out of the grey earth . This book is an important reference for students as well as those interested in the history of plants, although [ missed a bibliography and North American readers might well be interested in the author s qualifications.
H. B. Skinner
HORTULUS
, Botanical art: -originals & prints
Old, rare & out of print gardening books
Special order floristry by graduate of Constance Spry FlowerSchool, England
101 Scollard Street, Toronto Yorkville (416) 960-1775
Edible Podded Snap Pea i
SUGAR SNAP
All-America Selections
Gold Medal 1979
Get ready for a new flavor sensation! Nowyou can enjoy an edible podded pea so crisp, sweet and succulent that it can be snapped into pieces and mixed into salads or eaten whole as an appetizer.
The gardeners who like to grow regular snow peas for stir frying or steaming will be pleased with Sugar Snap. Unlike flat podded sugar or snow peas which should be eaten when the pods are small, Sugar Snap remains in prime condition for days.
Sugar Snap pods have a distinct appearance and flavor. Round (cross-section) pods with very thick walls can be eaten at fully mature sizes, 2% to3 inches inlength.
Mature pods require stringing. This can be accomplished quickly and conveniently while you are snapping the pods into bite-size pieces. Should any pods overgrow and begin to turn yellow, you can shell them and combine the green peas with the edible pods.
Vegetable experts across North America who have tried Sugar Snap agree that it promises to raise the popularity of garden peas by increasing the yield of edible matter. You end up with more than twice as much food
per foot of row than from peas that have to be shelled.
Edible podded peas are nutritious and filling but not as high in total carbohydrates and fats as green shelled Y peas. The crunchy pods con- "7/ 154~ tribute fiber, vitamins and some carbohydrates.
If you cook Sugar Snap pods, don't overdo it; lightly steam or stir fry in oil to retain a hint of crispness. Overcooking will make pods come apart.
Sugar Snap is easy to freeze
but cannot be canned. The high temperature in canning destroys the structure of _ pods. <7
Vines are tall; supports are recommended. Where cool growing conditions encourage vine growth, plants may reach 6 feet or more in height. Four feet is the average height for spring-planted crops, and 70 days tomaturity from seedingin the garden. Plants are resistant to common pea wilt.
Spring-plant seeds just as soon as the soil has dried enough to work. In mild winter areas, plant seeds in early fall for spring harvest. Sugar
Snap has been reported to recover from frost as low as ==
20°F.
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CHEESE-STUFFED SNAP PEA PODS
A surprisinglydifferentcocktailplatetofix foryour next party should be CHEESE-STUFFED SNAP PEA PODS. Make the plate pretty by circling the stuffed pods around a chunk of cheese and serve with a dish of crackers. Let your persnnality show forth with the adjustable-in-the-makingpea pod filling . .. season to your taste as you make it. What fun it can be to make this dish because you don t really need to worry too much about the calories.
1/2 pound (about 30 Sugar Snap pods)
8-ounce package ricotta cheese
3-ounce package cream cheese
Tarragon leaves, crushed
Ground celery seed
Garlic and onion powders
Worcestershire sauce
Salt and pepper
Shell Sugar Snaps, separating peas and pods, leaving pods attached on one side. Set aside 2/3 cup shelled peas for pod filling. Put remaining peas, covered, in refrigerator for other uses. Put pods into aplasticbaggieandrefrigerateuntilreadytouse. To make filling for pods, mash the 2/3 cup shelled peas and stir into mixture ofcheeses. Whenwell blended, season to taste with tarragon, ground celery seed, garlic and onion powders, Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper. Fillingis tastierifallowed to stand, covered in refrigerator, overnight.
THE GARDEN CLUB OFTORONTO
presents AVERYSPECIALFLOWERSHOW
IN THE VICTORIAN MANNER
THE CIVIC GAaRDEN CENTRE
March 9th, 10th, & 11th
Hours: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday noon to 6 p.m.
Admission: $2.50. Students $2.00. Friday only Senior Citizens $2.00
Tickets available at the Garden Club of Toronto, 777 Lawrence Ave., East, Don Mills, M3C 1P2.
Now isthetime
by Ernest Pope, North Toronto HorticulturalSociety
March 1-May 15
PANSIES
The question is frequently asked Why do my pansy plants only bloom for a few weeks and then deteriorate and eventually die ?
Pansies are hardy biennials, usually grown from seed sown outdoors, during the first week in July, and bloom profusely the following spring from about April 25th to June 15th, if given winter protection.
The question comes from those who buy their plants locally, usually at the same time (about mid May) as they buy their annuals.
Pansies unlike annuals start to grow outsidejust as soon as the snow disappears. Being a cool weather plant springfrosts do not bother them in the least, and unlike annuals they bloom primarily at that time. Much of their very vigorous root growth that supports the later blooms takes place prior to April 20th.
As a result plants bought in mid May, and transplanted into the garden in bloom suffer from unapparent planting shock as they seldom get their roots re-established because the blooms are demanding all the plants vitality. As soon as the weather starts to warm up the incompleted root structure is insufficient to fully nourish the demands made on it by the top growth.
If you do not grow your own plants from seed, you should visit your nurseryman as soon as the snow has disappeared, and buy your plants from him. He may be surprised to see you so early, but should be glad to make the sale. The plants will probably be just showing buds. If you transplant them immediately in the
garden in full sun, and give them a shot of liquid fertilizer full strength as directed (e.g. Rapid Gro, Plant Prod 20-20-20, etc.) and repeat the dose ten days later, your plants will root vigorously, and growrapidly, prior to the full blooming period.
In recent years it has been possible to start plants from seed in January under fluorescent lights and plant them out first thing in the spring, when they will bloomjust as well as those started the previous July.
Because they thrive in cool weather it is better after June 15th to dig up the plants and replace them with a showy annual for the summer months.
ANNUALS FROM SEED
While several annuals such as geranuims, fibrous and tuberous begonias and browallia, should have been started earlier, March is the big planting month for most of the more popular ones.
March 1st-15th Impatiens, coleus, ageratum, petunias, gloriosa daisies, salvia.
March 15th-31st Snapdragons
: Pansy Orange Prince Hybrid All-Ar erica Selections Bronze Medal 1979, with round, full, slightly ruffled blossoms, 21 to 3 inches in diameter.
April 1st-15th French marigolds, zinnias.
April 15th-30th African marigolds
Too early planting could result in tall spindly growth, premature blooming, pre-hardening of the stems and plants that will go to seed ahead of their normal time.
BUYING ANNUALS
Even though growers now have annuals on sale as early as the first week in May, partly by public request and partly by the need to spread out the spring rush, it is questionable if any, with a few exceptions such as Snapdragons and Gloriosa Daisies, should be transplanted into the garden prior to May 20th.
If the soil is cold nothing is gained and in fact considerable harm may be done. If they are not damaged by late frost, they will refuse to grow until the ground warms up, and hardening of the stems may take place as a result of the shock.
Because ofthe early availability of annuals, to get the best selection a buyer usually has to buy his plants several weeks before he should plant them. If he does so he should place them on a sunny patio, until the temperature is right for transplanting. It may even be necessary to cover them at night if frost threatens.
There has been a trend in recent years to sell annuals in full bloom, because the public want to buy by colour. Well the buyer may be happy with his or her selection but the plants are faced with the problem of having to re-establish roots after transplanting and support flowers at the same time, creating a strain on the plant overall. In many cases the plants do not stool out, or throw side shoots as they normally should. (Petunias are a classic example).
As most growers are very careful about properly naming their varieties, if you know the kind by name, you will find you are getting the right
colour, and if you are lucky, you may be able to purchase them before they are in bloom.
If you are only able to buy blooming plants, it is a good idea with some annuals (i.e. Petunias, Snapdragons, Fibrous Begonias, Impatiens and Ageratum) to pick off the blooms and part of the main stem at planting time, to encourage root growth.
FERTILIZING PERENNIALS
Many perennials will grow year after year with little attention, but much better results can be obtained by the annual spring application (April 10th-20th) of a handful of an all purpose fertilizer, (4-12-8, -5-10-5, -714-7) carefully worked in around the surface of each plant so as not to disturb the root system.
BONSA| DESIGNS
Bonsai Trees
Bonsai Pots and Tools
Selected Flowering and Tropical Plants
Interior and Exterior
Landscape Designs in Oriental and Western Styles
BONSAI DESIGNS
- PLANTS & LANDSCAPING LIMITED
Nicotiana NICKI-RED Hybrid
All-America Selections
Bronze Medal 1979
Nicotiana is moving steadily upward in popularity despite its formidable botanical label and homely common name . . . flowering tobacco.
Old-fashioned gardens usually included a cluster or two of nicotiana plants. Tall and velvety-leaved, they ~ added color without weight because p the slender spikes were sparsely set N " S\ with tubular pendent blossoms. &7 4 R
Older gardeners will remember with nostalgia the pervasive fragrance of evening blooming nicotiana.
Now, plant breeders have reset the biological clock in nicotianas to produce flowers that remain open all day. At the same time, they trimmed the plants to a handier size, doubled the number of flower spikes per plant, and tilted the individual blossoms to face out rather than down. Some of the evening fragrance has been preserved.
CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE FLORAL CRAFTS WORKSHOP
Visit us for unusual all-year-round floral gifts ENQUIREABOUT OUR SPECIALSERVICES
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e FRESH FLOWER BOUQUETS AND ARRANGEMENTS FOR MEMBERS ONLY or FOR FUNCTIONS IN THE C.G.C. BUILDING JOIN US as a volunteer, and apply your own skills or learn new ones. Our volunteers prepare preserved and fresh floral bouquets and learn associated crafts.
HOURS: 10-4 p.m. weekdays. Some weekends only call ahead.
Nicki-Red s upright, multispiked plants begin blooming when plants are less than a foot high and continue to grow and bloom until theyreach 18 to 24 inches in height. Plants are exceptionally uniform for height and shape. Each spike bears about a dozen rain resistant, trumpet-shaped flowers, shiny on the inside, dull on the outside.
Nicki-Red can become exhausted after putting on such a great show. You can speed reblooming by trimming off spent spikes before seeds form. Feed lightly and water heavily. In the Deep South, gardeners prefer to pull out spent plants and reseed for late summer and fall bloom.
The tiny seeds of nicotiana are surprisingly easy to start out-of-doors in warm soil. Dig in a little manure or compost and leave the soil rough. Water the soil heavily, then scatter
Don t cover them. Seedlings are easy to transplant into drifts or medium height edgings. *
THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE 777 Lawrence Ave. E.,
Don Mills, Ontario
NAME (PRINT) MEMBERSHIP & PHONE NO.
ADDRESS CITY CODE
PLEASE REGISTER ME FOR THE FOLLOWING EVENTS CLASS OR WORKSHOP TIME FEE
O Iwould like to take advantage of reduced rates offered members and enclose $10.00 for my annual fee (add $2.50 for each additional family member) Totalenclosed
Nicotiana Nicki-Red Hybrid, All-America Selections Bronze Medal 1979. the nicotiana seeds.
EARLY START GARDENING
Here is a way to get the jump on spring .
Panels or shapes of polyethylene seal air bubble insulation allow you to plant vegetable seeds four to five weeks earlier than usual without fear of frost Kill.
Place sheet of insulation, bubbleside down, on prepared seed bed. Cover edges with a few inches of soil. With a sharp knife cut an X through every second or third 3/4 diameter bubble, depending on spacing desired. Insert seed (bean, pea, carrot, etc.) through slit X into seed bed. Cover seeds lightly with soil. Moisten seed bed. Water sparingly as required.
Sealed air bubble insulation lets the sunshine in and warms the seed bed. It keeps cold air out and the seed bed
GET the SOME on SPRING! 7/////,,
For early vegetable garden growth use sunshine and sealed AIR BUBBLE INSULATION TO:
¢ Let warm sun bathe seedlings for strong and vigorous growth
e Keep seed bed warm on cool nights
e Let sunlight in
e Retain moisture and condensation for early and fast germination
Write for application bulletin A18-1 and details.
INSULPAC SPECIALTIES CO. DIV. M.LS.C.L.
31 Progress Avenue, Unit 4, Scarborough, Ontario M1P 456
Phone (416) 291-4999
moist. In hot summer weather, it keeps seed bed moist as well with minimum water. The plant grows right through the X slit in the air bubble.
For insulation and/or further information, contact Insulpac Specialties.
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Send today for Sears-McConnell latest, all-color GardenCatalogue featuring top-quality Nursery Stock, Seeds and Supplies.
For your free catalogue write to:
THE McCONNELL NURSERY CO. LTD. PORT BURWELL, ONTARIO N0J 1T0O Phone 519-874-4405
Houseplants
by ErnestPope, North Toronto HorticulturalSociety
Growing house plants is one of nature s most delightful and rewarding hobbies. It enables you to garden the year round. Contrary to general opinion you don t have to be born with a green thumb to do it well. You can develop one by learning how to provide the simple but basic needs. Many people with a love of plants and flowers fail to grow them properly because they neglect to ascertain and apply the fundamentals.
How often one hears people say Plants just won t grow for me . The reason isn t any lack in the person, but simply a lack of knowledge of what is necessary, or the failure to apply it regularly. Any person with the desire can learn to grow healthy, attractive plants. In fact over a period of years they can become quite expert.
The purpose of this article is to encourage beginners in getting started properly. Probably you would begin by growing your first house plants on the window sills of your home or sunroom. Later, after you have proved successful you can branch into such things as fluorescent lights, planters,
terrariums or even a greenhouse. But first of all you must know the primary elements required by all houseplants. These are light, temperature, soil, water, humidity and fertilizer.
Light Most flowering and some foliage plants need ample sunlight and would therefore need a southern or western exposure. Many foliage plants and a few flowering ones require plenty of light, but little sunlight and will thrive in an eastern or northern window.
Temperature During the winter in most homes, it varies from approximately 22 Cel. (78F) during
SPRINGWOOD ROSES
Agents and growers of Nor East miniature rose introductions, offer a wonderful selection of miniature roses to Canadians.
For a 1979 miniature rose catalogue write SPRINGWOOD ROSES 2167 Gordon Drive o Mississauga, Ontario [= L5B 1S6 EQ/ X e & Phone (416) 270-6266 \%U/ RO, ,f\\i 1979%\
32nd ANNUAL SHOW and SALE
OFFICIAL OPENING BY
The Honourable R. Roy McMurtry, Q.C.,
Viewing hours: Saturday, 12:30 p.m. - 4:00 p.m.
Exhibition and sale continues April 23 through May 12 at North York Central Library,
Attorney General for Ontario Friday, April 20, 8:00 p.m. Sunday, 1:00 p.m. - 4:00 p.m. The Civic Garden Centre 5126 Yonge Street, Willowdale
the day to 18 Cel. (65F) at night. Many plants need lower temperatures especially at night and this is difficult in the average home. We should therefore, choose plants, that will adapt to the temperatures we need for our own comfort.
Soil Most garden soils by themselves are not satisfactory for this purpose. A good general purpose mixtureis: 1 part loam, 1 part peat moss, 1 part coarse sand or perlite. The beginner starting with only a few plants is well advised to buy a bag of ready mixed potting soil from a local nursery.
Water Too little water will dry out the roots, too much will rot them and only experience will finally guide the right amount. Clay pots, because they are porous, will require watering more frequently than the plastic. The beginner would be wise to use only one kind. The smaller the pot the quicker it drys out. It is good practice when watering to add enough that it runs out the bottom and remove the run over water.
Humidity Most house plants will benefit from higher humidity than is available in the average home. A humidifier or the daily use of a hand sprayer will help to overcome this problem.
Fertilizer Like all living things plants require food. While there is usually a certain amount of
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nourishment in the original potting medium regular feedings will be needed. There are a number of water soluble fertilizers on the market that give excellent results. Many plants, usually the more expensive, such as azaleas, gardenias, orchids, etc., require special growing conditions that would be difficult for the beginner to provide. To start with, you should try only plants that adapt readily to existing conditions in your home. Listed below are some of the easier to grow kinds that are readily available to most nurseries and plant stores. Also listed are a few books that are especially recommended for the beginner. They are available at the Civic Garden Centre, Toronto or other publishing outlets. A well grown collection of house plants is ajoy to behold and will provide a great deal of pleasure.
GARDEN ALL YEAR
A hobby without peer for leisure, home beauty and livability a garden that blooms all year with only a few hours care each week.
Our catalogue contains dozens of full colour photos of prefabricated greenhouses in lifetime aluminum. With it you can choose a greenhouse that is sure to harmonize with your home.
Write for your copy today!
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FOLIAGE PLANTS
Babies Tears
Coleus
Dieffenbachia
Fatshedera
Jade Plant
Sansevieria
FLOWERING PLANTS
African Violet
Angel Wing Begonia
Amaryllis
Beefsteak Begonia
Begonia semperflorens
Impatiens
TRAILING VINES
English vy
Philodendron cordatum
Spider Plant
Swedish vy
Tradescantia
Zebrina
BOOKS
The Apartment Gardener
Florence & Stanley Dworkin $1.50
Brooklyn Botanic Garden
Handbooks House Plant Primer, House Plants each $41.75
The World Book of House Plants
Elvin McDonald $1.25 *
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PERENNIAL PLANTS
Over 1000 varieties for sale
Unique in Ontario
Open to visitors Sunday only starting April 29
"Country Squires Sarden
Steeles Ave. 2 mileswest of Highway #10
CNIB @ SOCIAL Caterblan CATERING services
e WEDDINGS e COCKTAIL PARTIES e BANQUETS e LUNCHEON MEETINGS WITH COMPLETE SERVICES
1929 Bayview Avenue 486-2590
Reeves Nursery
Whatever your gardening needs are, we ll be pleased to serve you at Reeves Nursery, Ontario s largest climate-controlled garden centre. In the tropical greenery of our five gigantic greenhouses, you ll also find lovely wicker furniture, Canadiana and even an entire section devoted to kitchen ware and gourmet cooking. We re slightly out of the way, but quite out of the ordinary.
8700 Islington Ave., 2 miles north of Hwy. 7.851-2275.
Tools for the Block Gardener ~
by Jim Floyd, LandscapeArchitect
How would you like to spend a few thousand dollars to care for your garden this summer? No? Then would you consider an alternate approach calculated to ease the financial burden of large tool purchases while building an interest in, knowledge of and solid relationship with your surroundings? Summer is accompanied by idle
students, travelling homeowners, and the rapid growth of all that is green, bright and beautiful. Students need work, gardens need care and homeowners need the confidence that their house surroundings won t go to pot while they are away. Thus begins the notion of a Block Gardener, who in the same vein as a Block Parent, co-operates with
| at home
A national Canadian gardening magazine that covers all facets of indoor and outdoor plant growing. Editor Art Drysdale, and writers Ken Brown and Jack Hinde, along with other contributors, invite you to join the 30,000 paid subscribers who will receive all the most up-to-date data timely articles, exclusive features, book reviews, new product info, exciting new ideas, horticultural humour and more.
And, since Gardening At Home is an integral part of Home magazine, you will receive it as a bonus when you subscribe features on home renovation, decor, energy conservation, recipes, new trends and crafts.
Subscribe to-day for 10 issues only $10 (20 months reading), and with this coupon, receive an additional issue free. Please enclose payment addressed to GardeningAtHome, Box 188, Stn. D", Scarborough, Ontario M1R 5B5.
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neighbours in becoming a community resource (which, incidentally, he may be in winter as well).
Now two major factors seem to bother most homeowners about their gardens. Either it won t grow right or I can t afford the tools these days to do a proper job . Let s examine these two items carefully.
When one s knowledge of gardening is reasonable, the wise purchase of tools becomes a primary question. What are they and what do they need to do? We could all sit back, have a drink and watch the parade as the Block Gardener works through his act.
The right hand of the vanguard performer is waving white computer printout sheets from Guelph, bearing information on acidity/alkalinity and fertility requirements on everyone s garden soil. In his left hand he is holding high the slim tee shaped corer
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CRAFTS &
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Growers and distributors of quality garden plants and craft products
NOW 6 beautiful garden stores to serve you
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UNIONVILLE SCARBOROUGH 1242 Dundas St. E. No. 7 Highway 1306 Kennedy Rd. West of Thickson Rd. East of Woodbine Ave. South of Highway 401 East of Anderson St. West of Kennedy Rd. North of Lawrence Ave. 668-7505 297-3330 755-5345
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used to collect the soil specimens in late winter. Behind him are the spring clean up and pruning tools.
Three wobbling and weaving wheelbarrows are coming down the route stuffed with fan-shaped leaf rakes, garden forks with four or more flat tynes, square form garden spades, flat end, toothed soil rakes, lengths of hose with sprinklers, and a cluster of pruning tools hand held snips to cut terminal buds, sucker growth and branches up to one inch diameter; a pruning saw for heavier boughs; loppers for the hard to reach; and a curved knife for the fast and adept gardener to make propagation cuttings. All the tools are clean and oiled; the spades and cutters are honed on a grinder or file and whetstone.
Bringing up the tail end of the first grouping are a fertilizer spreader, a lawn aerator to pull plugs of soil, a roller to lay down what the frost heaved up and wheel-driven rototiller to start a new vegetable patch.
Rounding the corner now are bright red rotary mowers, two silent electric models flanking the less liked but ultimately safer gas-driven model. The electrical cords being looped overhead in lariats, showing off skills that few gardeners manage to muster. There are a lot of plastic parts in this year s mowers, but it is pleasing to learn that they are manufactured with the low speed revolutions to reduce hurled stone accidents. Coming up now are the
reel mowers, push singles and towed gang of four not popular in Peking. These models are the best for the smooth refined lawns as they roll and cut in one action. Most models now have three hundred hour lifetime expectancy. The parade official is signaling that all the blades are razor sharp and set low for springtime mowing.
Weed-eaters (gas-driven lengths of slashing fish line) and edgers (pushed reel-type) are following the mowers. The school of alternate gardening techniques has submitted a bevy of baaing inseparable sheep and goats as the original lawn mower weed eater.
Now a motley dressed crew of annual flower planters is marching six abreast carrying trowels, threepronged forks for hand weeding, tee drills for planting hundreds of bareroot ground covers (e.g. periwinkle), slim line square ended garden spades for small plants, hand held bulb planting tools for summer bulbs, corms and tubers; and a collection of stakes and ties to support those plants that need help. A young fellow with a refurbished wooden wagon is hauling three flats of the ever popular Zinnias.
The muscle bound landscapers are forming the next contingent. First in their line-up is a sod stripper to cleanly lift rows of sod from a lawn. This allows relaying of sod after grading or drainwork or simply relocation. Sharpened long handled
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shovels are being carried for excavating tree pits and new soil planting beds. This shovel saves many strained back muscles when a lot of earth must be moved. A two handled, balloon tyred tree carrier is being used to haul an eight foot high Serbian spruce which has been balled and wrapped in burlap.
The garden maintenance crew are coming next with hoes and long handled weed slicers, hedge trimmers power and manual, and air pump sprayers to knock out bad infestations. It takes several watering cans, soaker hoses, nozzles and accessories for even one block of gardeners, because watering needs to be done very often on the same day in everybody s yard.
The last of the tools is a power blower for leaves, clippings and debris on lawn or pavement. It does the work of ten people, while making the noise of eighty.
The final float is a secure tool shed with an attached potting bench, compost boxes (3) and mechanical shredder. This one is wood frame construction and looks more like a sugar shack playhouse than the sheet metal models seen in other years. It must be custom built to have this appearance.
Trailing behind now, I can hardly believe my eyes, a snow blower. O Canada, your garden is so often white.
e Wild Flowers
Gardeners are turning to native wildflowers because, like native woody plants, they offer much beauty but require little maintenance and have few disease or insect problems. Many of the meadow-type wildflowers, annuals which reseed themselves, can be grown in beds in city gardens that have no fencerows, hillsides, meadows or rocky ledges. from The Avant Gardener
THE FLOWERS REALLY GIVE YOU A SPRINGY FEELING. I REALLY LOVE THE SET-UP OF THIS PLACE - IT°'S HUGE! Says Elizabeth Golling/ Toronto
The smell ofspring is in the air.. . at Clargreen Gardens. See our displays oforchids, bromeliads, bonsai, cacti, ferns and palms...and you'll agree the tropical scenery is fantastic. And for this in-between season, Clargreen has a wide variety ofdriedflower arrangements and beautiful silkflowers to enjoy anytime of the year. Visit us today. . . we ll show you the way to spring.
® New for 1979 ¢ Full colour throughout ¢ 136 pages ¢ over 1200 trees and other plants ¢ plus valuable gardening information
Obtain yours now at any Sheridan Garden Centre for $1.00 orfreewith any purchase