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May, 1979
Volume 6, Number 3
In this issue
Cover picture: Nova Zembla Rhododendron. Photo by G. Phillips.
Getting started with Rhododendrons and Azaleas/5
Nowis the time/10
Vegetable garden/12
In the rock garden/17
Ontransplanting/21
Publication Committee
James Floyd (Chairman), Jerry Maccabe, Pat Rogal, Mary Smith, Clive E. Goodwin
Editor: Fredrik Kirby
Aduvertising: Shirley Kirby (416) 226-0996
Graphics and Printing Drewmark Graphics, Toronto General Information 1ssno03s0-1470
} i Trellis is published in the months ofJanuary, March, May, July, September, and November and distributed on or about the 15th of the month previous by the Civic Garden Centre, 777 Lawrence Avenue East, Don Mills, Ontario M3C 1P2. Telephone: (416) 445-1552. The Centre is located in Edwards Gardens, at Leslie Street and Lawrence Avenue East, the geographical centre of Metropolitan Toronto. Itis a non-profit gardeningand floral arts information organization with open membership. Subscriptions to Trellis are only available through Centre membership (10 per year). Opinions expressedwithin do not necessarily reflect those of the Centre.
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Put TRELLIS coupons in draw box at Civic Garden Centre. They are good for three different draws. See dates. You can only win once: RODALE S ENCYCLOPEDIA OF ORGANIC GARDENING. (300 illustrations. 1,490 topics.)
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Getting started with ! Rhododendrons and .Azaleas
by Donald Oke
The Rhododendron genus includes many plants that are among the most beautiful of flowering shrubs. They are frequently described as being the aristocrats of garden ornamentals. They are attractive when they flower in the spring, and they are exceptionally interesting at other times of the year as well. They have the further great advantage for those of us who live in the older sections of the city with many large trees, of being plants that prefer to grow under conditions of shade. Moreover, they are adaptable to a wide variety of garden situations from rock gardens, to foundation plantings, to naturalized woodlands, to elegant large estates.
These plants are known and loved by people in many parts of the world the United Kingdom, Northern Europe, the East and West Coasts of the United States, British Columbia, Japan, China and other countries of South East Asia. They are not, however, very well known or
extensively grown in the Toronto area or Eastern Canada generally, aside from the florists azaleas sold as houseplants. For every garden that includes rhodos, there must be hundreds that have roses, for instance. Yet, this situation is changing. Indeed, to judge by the growth of interest in Canada over the last few years, and in the U.S. over a longer period, rhodos and azaleas are destined to become immensely popular as garden subjects.
One reason that rhododendrons have not been widely grown in Eastern Canada in the past is that our climate was considered to be too severe for these plants. Hardiness is still a significant consideration today. But, the specific, though not difficult, cultural requirements ofthese plants are much better understood now than was the case in decades past. Moreover, plant breeders in recent times have worked to develop hybrids having greater hardiness than was previously known. Finally,
sources of supply are improving every year, making suitable plants more accessible to the average gardener.
Where to see Rhododendrons
Anyone developing an interest in rhododendrons and azaleas would be well advised to seek out the various public and private places where these plants can be seen growing. In this way, the plants themselves, as well as their preferred environment, can be appreciated. The peak period of bloom in Toronto is from mid-May to mid-June, with some colour in evidence from the end of April until early July. Many of the deciduous types have fine foliage colour in October and November. The evergreen types, in their various phases, provide interest year-round.
The largest public display in the Toronto area is located in Edwards Gardens, at Lawrence Avenue and Leslie Street. Almost all of the rhodos and azaleas are in beds or in the adjacent woods at the bottom of the valley along the west side of the creek, running south of Lawrence Avenue for about one third of a mile. There are now about 400 rhodos and azaleas in Edwards Gardens, most of which have been supplied and planted by members ofthe Toronto Regional Group of the Rhododendron Society of Canada in cooperation with the Metro Toronto Parks Department. For a history of this project see the article by Ken Duncan inTRELLIS ofJune 1977. There is a smaller group ofrhodos in James Gardens, in Etobicoke east ofRoyal York Road, south ofEglinton Avenue. Outside of Toronto, there are displays in Hamilton s Royal Botanical Gardens, at the Vineland Horticultural Research Institute, and in the Dominion Experimental Farm in Ottawa.
Among private plantings, the outstanding display is the 4 acre
wooded garden developed over several decades by the late Leslie Hancock at Woodland Nurseries, 2151 Camilla Road, Mississauga. Private gardens of members of the Toronto Region, Rhododendron Society of Canada, can be seen by arrangement with the President of the Toronto Region, Mrs. J. Lovat Dickson, phone 486-6109.
Hardiness
Gardeners are accustomed to distinguishing rhododendrons, almost all of which are evergreen, from evergreen azaleas and from deciduous azaleas. Each of these three groups has a characteristic appearance and function in the garden. Technically, however, rhododendrons, evergreen azaleas and deciduous azaleas are all members of the genus Rhododendron.
Several species ofevergreen rhododendrons and deciduous azaleas are native to the Appalachian Mountains of eastern North America. These species are amongst the hardiest in the world. In the early and middle 19th century, these North American plants were utilized by English and Dutch plant breeders to hybridize with other more exotic but less hardy species from Asia. This work has continued into the 20th century as more Asian species have been discovered. All of the evergreen azaleas are native to Asia, particularly to Japan and Korea.
All of the plants in commerce have over the years been rated for hardiness by the various national rhododendron societies. The American ratings are the most useful for us. In the American scheme, the designation H1 identifies plants that show little damage to buds at temperatures of -25°F (-32°C). Similarly, H2 means plants are bud hardy to -159F (-26°C); H3 indicates hardiness to -5°F (-21°C); and finally,
H4 means buds will survive to +5°F (16°C).
Toronto lies within Zone 6 of the Canadian Plant Hardiness Zone Map developed by the Canada Department of Agriculture. This means that the single lowest temperature per winter, averaged over 30 years, is between 0°F and -10°F. Areas immediately north of Toronto from Richmond Hill to Parry Sound and Ottawa are in Zone 5, with minimum winter temperatures expected to be in the -10°F to -20°F range.
Clearly, then, as a basic rule, plants for use in Toronto should have a hardiness rating of H1 or H2. For areas north ofToronto, only the H1 plants can be relied upon. Virtually all plants sold by local nurseries are H1 or H2. However, qualifications need to be added to this basic rule. It can readily be appreciated that the hardiness of plants is influenced by several conditions, of which temperature is only one. Cultural practices have an important effect on winter survival. Thus, the hardiness ratings can be only rough guidelines. Furthermore, these plants can be protected in various ways, the most valuable insulation being a blanket of snow. Small plants, say up to 2 or 3 feet, can easily be protected with snow, if the gardener is prepared to lend some assistance. Consequently, the venturesome gardener in the Toronto area might want to risk the occasional plant rated H3, if it is small enough to be easily protected.
Among broad-leaved rhododendrons, the ones that are hardy to -25°F, and are closely related to the native American species, are frequently referred to as the ironclads . Among deciduous azaleas, there are three groups with long and distinguished histories: the Ghent hybrids, the Mollis hybrids and the Knap Hill Exbury hybrids. These are all reliably hardy to -15°F,
and several can take temperatures to -259F. The evergreen azaleas, sometimes called the Obtusum azaleas, constitute the tenderest group grown in the Toronto area. Most of the evergreen azaleas sold locally are bud hardy without snow cover only to the range -5% to -10°F, although a few can take somewhat lower temperatures.
Plant Character
After hardiness, perhaps the second consideration in choosing plants is their size and character. There is no mistaking the patrician bearing and air of authority of the broad-leaved rhododendrons. They are emphatic, stately, distinguished plants that demand to be displayed appropriately. The ironclad rhododendrons and most of the older rhodo hybrids were developed in the 19th century for use in the large estates of the wealthy. They tend to develop into generous sized plants, as much as 6 or 8 feet, and low modern houses cannot ultimately use many plants of this size. Of course, these plants are smaller when they are young. Moreover, all of the
Coccineum Speciosum Ghent hybrid deciduous azalea
rhododendrons have compact, shallow root systems which allow even rather large plants to be moved easily until they are of advanced age. Thus, most gardeners buy plants of a foot or two high, space them initially two and a half to three feet apart, and plant to rearrange them after several years, when they have outgrown their allotted space. Aside from the standard 19th century hybrids, there are, however, many dwarf and semidwarf rhododendrons some whose ultimate height is 3 or 4 feet, some that remain a foot, or even just a few inches high. Obviously, these dwarf plants make the better long-term investments for most purposes in city gardens. The dwarfs also have a greater variety of foliage effects than the standard hybrids normally have. Unfortunately, the dwarf rhododendrons are not yet so commonly available from local nurseries as are the larger 19th century hybrids. You need to hunt a bit for them.
The deciduous azaleas differ in character from their cousins the broad-leaved rhododendrons.
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Typically, azalea flowers appear before the leaves emerge in the spring. The flowers have a light texture and are held in airy, graceful clusters, in contrast to the formal, substantial domes of the rhodos. The plant habit tends to be upright and less broad than high. In size, most of these azalea plants grow ultimately to a height of 5 or 6 feet. A few varieties want to go to 10 feet or so. None is really dwarf. Being loose and informal in habit, deciduous azaleas can advantageously be pruned occasionally to keep the plants vigorous and in bounds.
The evergreen, or Obtusum azaleas have a refined, delicate character that comes in part from their smaller leaves and flowers. The leaf of an Obtusum azalea is usually one inch or less in length, as opposed to 2 or 3 inches for a deciduous
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azalea, and 4 to 5 inches for a standard sized rhododendron. Similarly, each flower of an Obtusum azalea measures about 1 or 2 inches wide, in contrast to 3 or 4 inches for a deciduous azalea or for a rhododendron. The plant habit of the evergreen azaleas is loose and airy. The plant grows broader than tall. In size, some of these azaleas remain low ground huggers, others become medium sized to about 4 feet, and others may ultimately get to 6 or 7 feet in 20 years. The total effect of an Obtusum azalea is reminiscent of the stylized paintings of oriental landscapes. This is hardly surprising since these plants have been great favourites in Japanese gardens for centuries.
Because broad-leaved rhododendrons, deciduous azaleas, and evergreen azaleas, each have such distinctive personalities, some care is desirable in combining the three groups in a single garden. Many people who grow all of these feel that rhododendrons are at their best when they are not closely intermixed with either type of azalea. Rather, several rhodos should be grouped together, then several deciduous azaleas, and again, several Obtusum azaleas each grouping being sufficiently separated that it is not seen in the same glance as the adjacent one. This, however, is not a firm rule, but a matter of taste andjudgement.
Colour of Blossom
The third consideration in choosing plants would have to be the colours of the flowers. Primarily, the colours found among rhododendrons are in the purple to red range, including various violets, lavenders, magentas and pinks. Whites are also frequently found. There are also a few varieties that are close to blue at the one end of the standard range, and a few tender forms that are shades of
Continued page 16
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OPEN YEARROUND
Now isthetime
by Ernie Pope
MAY 1 JUNE 15
The month of May is the busiest time of the whole year for most gardeners. The work and planning we do now will largely determine the success of our summer gardens.
PEONIES
There is no sadder June floral picture than a well grown peony clump with its mud splattered blooms lying on the ground after the usual heavy showers or thunder storms at that time of year. To prevent this, staking should take place as soon as the stems are 12 high. Four solid wood or metal stakes, carefully driven into the ground so as not to damage the fleshy roots, plus heavy green twine or plastic should solve the problem.
DAHLIAS
They are quite sensitive to cool weather, and should not be planted until the ground has warmed up, usually about May 15th to 25th. If you want earlier bloom, especially from late flowering varieties, the divided tubers can be started indoors about April 15th in pots or flats, with damp peat moss just covering them. The well sprouted plants can then be transferred to the garden as above. Be sure and place the support stake at the time of planting, or you may damage or pierce the tuber if done later.
They should be planted in full sun and given lots of moisture. If allowed to dry out during a dry spell, they may go semi-dormant, and fail to flower satisfactorily if at all.
ANNUALS
Before planting your annuals, a top dressing of two inches of peat moss or compost should be placed over
the beds or areas you wish to plant them in, plus a fertilizer such as 4-12-8 or 5-10-5 or 7-14-7 applied at the rate recommended on the container. These ingredients should then be forked or dug in, to a depth of six inches, and the surface should then be raked witha stiff pronged rake to level the area and break up any lumps.
* This should be done at least two weeks before the actual planting date, to allow the soil to settle, and the fertilizer to become activated. Spring rains will usually accomplish this. If there s a dry period water two or three days before planting.
Here are a few varieties that the writer has found to be outstanding: Begonia (Fibrous) Glamour , Geranium Show Girl , Impatiens Grande , Marigold Nugget , Pansy Imperial Blue , Petunia Gay Paris , Petunia White Cascade , Snapdragon Little Darling .
If you grow annuals under lights, great care must be taken to acclimatize them outside, before transplanting them into the garden. The rays of the sun are much more powerful than the light from fluorescent tubes and can badly scald if not destroy the plants.
The containers should be placed in a shady area, such as under a tree or sheltered porch for two or three days, and then gradually introduced to the sunlight. After a week the plants will have adjusted to the sun s rays. Annuals grown in greenhouses or nurseries, are of course already sun conditioned, but still not frost immune.
Probably the commonest and most destructive garden pest in recent years, is the slug or shellless snail. It can no longer be ignored because it
has a special fondness for annuals, such as marigolds, petunias, coleus, salvia, and perennial primulas.
The most effective way to destroy them is through the use of Metaldehyde pellets, which are sold under several trade names such as Slug em, Bug Getta, etc.
To make them effective, you should plan on using them at least three times during the growing season. Slugs are night feeders unable to withstand the sun s rays and hiding under cover during the day.
If you want to see them in action, shinea flashlight on your annuals an hour after sunset. You can pick them off the plants by hand, but this is a slippery loathsome job.
To use the poison effectively it should be placed during the daytime among the plants about five or six pellets to the square foot, and lightly watered, with a fine hose spray or watering can. The moisture will
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dissolve the pellets partially, causing them to activate. Too much water will completely dissolve them, and destroy their effectiveness. For this reason you should avoid, if at all possible, using them just prior to a storm or heavy rainfall.
The first application should be made about the first week in June. The reason for this early application is because the adult slugs start breeding in that month, and if you wait until you see damage in July, you will also have to contend with numerous offspring. A second application should definitely be made in mid July, and a third in mid August if the plants are still being eaten.
Ernie Pope is a member of the Civic Garden Centre s Advisory Committee and a member ofNorth Toronto Horticultural Society. He is a regular contributor to the TRELLIS.
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TOMATO SEEDLINGS: SMALL IS GOOD
Bigger is not the same as better when it concerns tomato seedlings home-grown or purchased for transplanting to the garden. Experiments at New York State s Cornell University have confirmed what commercial growers have suspected for a long time. The age of tomato seedlings when they are transplanted to the garden can make a streking difference in per formance.
You get the best results when you set out relatively small tomatoes that have only five to seven leaves. As a rule, these little plants that have not yet begun to flower will give you a greater total weight of tomatoes, and somewhat larger, generally more attractive fruits than you would realize from large, older transplants.
To obtain early production, it is preferable to select a quick maturing variety and set out small, vigorously growing seedlings rather than use large, old plants of a late maturing variety.
During years when spring temperatures are unfavorable for early fruit setting, younger, smaller plants often will start fruiting as early as older, larger plants.
Data from Cornell University has been accumulated over two decades of tomato trials and indicates that, year in and year out, young tomato seedlings have performed more consistently than older transplants. From plant to plant and variety to variety, performance and yield has been more uniform and predictable.
PLANTING YOUR FIRST VEGETABLE GARDEN? FOLLOW THIS PLAN
All it takes is one successful garden to make each succeeding vegetable garden a breeze. Yet, first gardens are, more often than not, overly-large, crowded and poorly arranged, with tall plants in the front and frequently harvested vegetables stuck way in the back.
Your next vegetable garden can be as pretty as a picture, sensibly arranged and of =z practical size. Use this National Garden Bureau plan as a modet and be sure to:
Plant no more than you can care for with ease in four to six hours each week. Select varieties that adapted to your area.
Plant at the season recommended on seed packets. Allow plenty of space for plants to grow; thin ruthlessly. are
The 300 sq. ft. National Garden Bureau garden is 20 X 15 ft., about the size of a 1-car garage. It is designed to ac commodate 13 kinds of vegetables and will supply most of the fresh vegetables needed by a family of three. It can be weeded, watered and harvested within an average of two hours time each week.
Seeds for this garden will cost about $6.50 yet, from it, you can harvest $150 or more of delicious vegetables, depending on the length ofyour gardening season.
You might not care for some of the vegetables shown in the plan. Substitute others of comparable plant size. Seed packets and gardening books can advise you.
Depending on the length of the gardening season in your area, you can plant succession
National G:
Six plants with onion plant early
Two 12ft. rows bush beans
NOTE: plant two ro 6 inches apart down the center of the bed.
Two rows lettuce = interplanted with parsley and
Two rows beets plant early 20
crops as soon as you h: harvested the vegetables sho in this plan. Over much of country, leafy salad vegetabl cabbage family members, a root crops can be planted succession crops as late August for fall harvest.
s chard alongside £ T DIVIDE GARDEN INTO FIVE BEDS, EACH 2ft. WIDE, L RN :-x;' WITH 1ft. WIDE WALKS BETWEEN BEDS
N &k
' Two rows sweet corn \ space plants 9 to 12 inches apart
Three plants summer squash (or bush type winter squash or bush cucumbers)
Six plants cabbage or broccoli plant early
Four plants peppers (or two eggplant bushes)
Two rows carrots mixed with radishes plant early
'EVENTSINMAYANDJUNE
Special Centre and horticultural events starting in this period are as listed below.
Full details on the courses listed appear in the January Trellis.
May 1
May 4
May 7
May 8
May 9
May 10
BesuretogetyourticketfortheCentre sGardenTours.SeeJune 1 for details.
Rug Hooking Show and Show of Centre Crafts.
An excellent opportunity to see both Toronto s outstanding Rug Hooking Show and the full range ofcrafts taught at the Centre 1:30 p.m. t0 9:30 p.m.
Pine Cone Crafts demonstration 1.30 p.m. and 7.30 p.m.
Flower Arranging Basic Course Part 2 starts
Photography Course starts
Rhododendron Society of Canada Plant Sale and Auction. This sale andauctionwillincludePrimulas,HeathersandGentians not normally available in southern Ontario. Plant Sale 7.00 p.m. Auction 8.00p.m.
May 12-13
May 12-28
May 12-26
Southern Ontario Orchid Show Admission $1.00 This will be the Society s first International Show, withjudgingby American Orchid Society judges.
Spring Bulbs should be at their best in Edwards Gardens
Joint C.G.C.-Nature Travel Service Tour to Holland and the Chelsea Flower Show.
Cost $789.00. More informationfromthe CentreorNatureTravel Service (363-6394)
May 15
May 17
May 18
Milne House Garden Club Show. Featuring Books Come Alive . 10.00 a.m. to 5.30 p.m.
Admission $2.50.
Bringyour plants for the Plant Sale tomorrow. Come to the front door, any time between 10.00 a.m. and 4 p.m. There will be help available if you need it.
Civic GardenCentrePlantSale. Achancetogetsomeoutstanding bargains in plants.
Plants grown and donated by Centre members. 10.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m.
May 27
June 1 on June 1
Toronto African Violet Society Show It s Reigning Violets. 11.00 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Azaleas and Rhododendrons in Edwards Gardens.
First weekend for the Civic Garden Centre s Garden Tours. Through the generosity of the owners of some of Metro s fine gardens, the Centrewill run a series of GARDEN TOURSonthe weekends of June 1-3, June 15-17 and June 22-24
Fee $2.50 Tickets from the Centre.
June 3
June9-10
Rhododendron Society Show 12.00 noon 6.00 p.m.
We hope to arrange an exhibit of Rhododendrons in conjunction with this show.
Toronto Bonsai Society Annual Show 12.00 noon 5.00 p.m. both days
Admission $1.00
We hope to arrange anexhibit ofpeonies andiris thisweekend, in conjunction with the Iris Society Show, which is tentatively planned in Hillcrest Mall.
June 13 Flower Arranging Capsule Review
Mid-June Roses in Edwards Gardens
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June 24
Canadian Rose Society Show. Royal Botanical Gardens, Hamilton.
city gardens
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Rhododendrons and Azaleas
Continued from page 9
orange and yellow. The great preoccupation among a large number of contemporary hybridizers is to produce a rhododendron that has a strong yellow colour, and is also fully hardy to -15°F or so. As yet, such a plant does not exist, although several are close.
By contrast, however, deciduous azaleas are primarily in the range yellow to orange to red. White is also readily available. Thus, beds of deciduous azaleas can be designed to complement the colours of beds of rhododendrons, and thereby attain greater variety.
The colours ofthe evergreen
azaleas parallel those of the broadleaved rhododendrons: essentially tints and shades of purples and reds, along with whites. There are salmon colours among evergreen azaleas, and some quasi oranges, but not yellows.
Recommended Plants
There are approximately 1,000 species in the genus Rhododendron, and many thousands of hybrids. No comprehensive review is possible here. What follows is a short list of a few varieties that can confidently be suggested to a beginner in the Toronto area, and are available here. The height, hardiness rating, season of bloom and colour are given.
In early May the first spring bulbs are beginning to fade winter aconites, snowdrops, scillas, chionodoxas and the next wave of little beauties are getting ready for their big moment. Actually it is a pretty serious moment for them, with all the natural hazards they have to face, plus the unnatural ones that we, their guardians, are liable to present! It is certainly up to us to learn their needs and cooperate as best we can. By now any plants which may have been heaved out of the ground by frost, have been gently pressed back into the soil. Perhaps some have had to be replanted if their displacement was severe. This heaving, particularly of those with thick rootstocks, can be fatal if it occurs early in the winter so that the flesh root is exposed to repeated thawing and freezing and drying wind. This is the chief reason a winter mulch is recommended for rock plants, as well as for thickrooted border plants, especially when grown in heavy soil.
Firm up any rocks which may be loose. This is very important, otherwise roots may be damaged or left exposed.
If certain spots in the rock garden show marked erosion, there may be a drainage pattern that needs to be remedied before heavy rains do more damage. [t may mean removing, or adding, a rock, or altering its position. A small rock may be set across the line of flow to divert and spread it. A handful of small stones may have the same effect.
Should you have the misfortune to lose one of your most precious plants, don t feel too badly about it. It happens in nature too. If you are not certain about the hardiness of the lost plant, and are anxious to try again,
study the present conditions and decide if another location might suit it better. Or, early in September, you can carefully lift plants of doubtful hardiness, plant in a large plastic pot or box (deeper than a flat) and place them for the winter in a very protected place. Against the south wall of the house will provide some warmth. Under a dense shrub or evergreen is a good choice, but whatever the location, cover thoroughly with oak leaves or excelsior, held in place with evergreen boughs or chicken wire. ~ In the meantime, the spaces left by the dear departed will have to be filled. You can divide some thriving plant which is in need of breaking up, or plant new ones.
Such patching should not be hurried. A properly-prepared hole should be dug, a suitable soil-mix placed in the bottom and watered, then the plant put in place, spreading the roots gently before covering with more mix. You are hoping that this plant will survive and give pleasure for many years, so it is worth while spending time to give it a fair chance. The soil around the root should be firm, leaving no air pockets to dry the feeding roots. Air pockets can not only lead to drying, but also provide a comfortable hiding place for unwelcome guests.
Now is the time to top-dress the whole rock garden, usinga lightsoilmix composed of one-third topsoil, one-third leafmould (or not-toocoarse peatmoss if leafmould is not available), and one-third coarse, sharp sand, Turface or gravel. A handful of bonemeal to a bushel of mix will supply extra nourishment. This is a standard mix. Acid-loving plants such as azaleas, heaths and
native woodlanders require an extra measure of peat, whereas plants from limestone country should have agricultural lime, or ground limestone, added. If handling these special types, read up on them before planting. I need not remind Civic Garden Centre members of the marvellous selection of books available for loan or consultation in the C.G.C. library.
When reading about rock gardens you find constant references to limestone chips, or stone chips. These are very valuable for typical rock garden plants which chiefly originate in alpine or rocky regions. There they grow on ledges and in crevices on steep slopes where drainage is perfect. A collar of chips around the crown of such plants helps to ensure that water drains away quickly and prevents crown-rot.
If you have difficulty finding limestone chips, dolomite gravel will do, or a coarse grade of Turface. Even turkey grit can be used (not chicken grit, which is too fine) but whatever the substances, the little chunks should be not less than threeeighths of an inch in diameter. Do not use sand, as during wet spells it tends to hold water, rather than otherwise. These stone materials may often be found at garden centres, or you can consult the Yellow Pages under Building Supplies or Sand & Gravel. If you have a choice, buy chips or gravel as close as possible in color to the color of your rock. This is not essential as it is mostly covered by foliage anyway, but obviously light gray chips will not blend very well with the soft golden-brown or pinkbrown of Humber sandstone, for instance.
Now, while the soil is still light and porous, is the best time to pull out weeds. This is one of the most important items of care in the rock garden (and in what part of the garden is it not!) because weeds with
running roots will findtheir way underneath the rocks and you may in a few weeks or months find yourself with a major problem on your hands. Grass is perhaps the worst weed of all, and if the lawn borders your rock garden, keep a well-tended little ditch between it and the plants, no matter how charming stones running into the lawn may look. A deeply sunken plastic or metal barrier is a great help, and it should be ten to twelve inches deep at least. Bricks and stone slabs offer too many cracks between them to be satisfactory, but wooden planking is attractive (treated against rot, of course) if the joints are tightly sealed. A sunken concrete wall is probably best if the size of your garden warrants the trouble and expense. Any barrier should be placed flush with ground level to facilitate mowing.
Some plants are nearly as effective out of bloom as they are when flowering. Various kinds ofArtemisia, Alchemilla, the saxifrages, the many types ofDianthus, Sedum and Sempervivum (Hen-andchickens, Houseleek) are beautiful at all times. The fresh spears of dwarf iris and Sisyrinchium (Blue-eyed Grass) are also valuable for breaking
Ruth Buck Fishman Landscape Design
the line of ground-hugging foliage and low mounds.
Watch for hardiness when purchasing. The ones carried by local nurseries are reasonably sure to be dependable, as the study of hardiness e is basic to the nurseryman s business. 'Old, rare &out ofprint
HORTULUS
Botanical art: originals & prints
Rock plants are not subject to gardening books much insect depredation, their chief enemies being cutworms and slugs. Personally [ don t use any insecticide, as they are so poisonous and I don t like having them around. The work of cutworms can usually be spotted
quickly, and by prying around the plant close to the stem, the culprit can usually be found. Slug bait may be used for slugs, but there is always the danger to children and pets. I pick them by hand, and drop them into a jar of salty water. Revolting, isn t it? You have the choice of squashing them ifyou prefer! Keeping the ground surface clear of decaying leaves helps to some extent. If many ants seem to be active in a small area, and particularly if you find a plant looking very yellow and languid, dig around the root carefully to see if the ants are raising an aphis colony
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down there. Flooding with a Malathion solution will kill the aphis, but check again in a few days. If feasible, the plant can be dug out and the soil replaced, makingsure that no aphis are clinging to the roots. Where to purchase plants
Rock garden plants are usually available at nurseries and garden centres throughout Ontario.
For those who are beginning rockgardeners, the well-known species are the safest, but just because they are common does not mean that they are any less lovely.
A few of our Canadian seed companies carry some of the basic rock plant seeds. However, the best source of rare seeds is through the American Rock Garden Society. The fee is $7.00 a year (U.S. Funds), the address American Rock Society, 3 Salisbury Lane, Malvern, Pa., 19355. Mrs. Edith Kenzie is Secretary of the Bonsai Society and keen rock gardener.
On transplanting
by Albert Fisher
What do you need for transplanting? For certain, you need soil preferably sterilized soil. In the fall you should lay in a supply of soil from your compost heap, a supply of sand from a building supply agency and peat moss and possibly perlite. For sterilizing the soil you may, for small amounts, place it in the oven of your stove and maintain it near 180 deg. F. for about an hour. Moisten the soil before sterilizing; it is much more difficult to sterilize any dry material than moist material. (If you do not have a stove, request your wife s permission to use her stove. Otherwise the next alternative is to purchase an electrical sterilizer which will handle about one bushel of earth at a time. Cost about $300.) Having sterilized the soil, mix it with sand (or perlite) and peat moss. A common mix is equal parts of soil, sand and peat moss. In your mixing it may be desirable to add some water or dilute solution of fertilizer so that your mix is not dry. Store your mixed soil in a plastic container or garbage bag. Metal containers rust.
An alternative to the sterilizing and mixing of the soil is to purchase material from a garden centre. This is much more convenient but you miss the fun!
Although the mixtures described above are generally useful, it should be appreciated that there are instances when special mixtures must be available for the plants to be transplanted. Azaleas, for example, should have an acidic medium and hence are transplanted or potted in material consisting entirely, or almost entirely, of peat moss.
Most seed catalogues and gardening books suggest that pots and flats should be sterilized.
The use of plastic containers makes cleanliness and sterilizing a little easier. Plastic pots and flats can be washed readily, and soaked in chlorine bleaching solution in a plastic garbage pail and then rinsed thoroughly. (Clay pots can also be sterilized in this way but should be thoroughly washed a long time before use.) Of course, all this washing should be done outside in the fall unless you store the washings until the dirt in the fluid has settled. Don t overload your sewage system by dumping washings down the drain.
Many gardeners now use cubes made from peat, frequently compressed peat. When these are soaked in water the pots expand and the seedling to be transplanted is inserted into a small hole already formed by the manufacturer or prepared by the gardener with a small stick like a pencil.
You will need labels to mark the pots and flats into which you have transplanted. You should record the variety, colour, date, etc. of your transplants. Plastic, aluminum or wooden labels are available at garden stores.
A record book should be maintained. It is of interest to plan the time of transplanting, comparing dates over two or three years to assist in selecting preferred dates. Of course, the major force in selecting the date to transplant will be the kind of seedlings which are to be transplanted. Preferred dates for seeding are listed in many seed catalogues. Some of these will dictate the germination period. A rule commonly applied is to transplant when the seedling has formed two true leaves.
How do you transplant? The first
item is to select the soil suitable for the variety being transplanted. Transfer the soil, already damp, to a number of pots or flats. If clay pots are being used, you should place in the pot a piece of broken pot to cover the hole so that earth will not block the opening impairing drainage from the pot. Plastic pots usually have several small holes in the side of the pot and require no small broken pieces. If you are using wooden flats there will be drainage between the boards forming the bottom of the flat. If you are using plastic flats, punch some small holes with a knife about 3 or 4 inches apart. In addition to aiding drainage by the use of broken pieces of clay pots or a small amount of pea gravel (small stones available at building supply stores), some gardeners add a layer of charcoal before adding soil.
Tamp the soil slightly to remove any large air pockets. The quantity of soil placed in the pot should be enough to fill the pot to about threequarters to one inch below the rim.
The depth at which you place the seedling will depend in part upon the variety. Cyclamen, for example, grow near the surface. Some varieties may later need support and you may wish to place a supporting stake so that you will not harm the roots on a later occasion.
Don t forget that, though the seedlings needed no fertilizer for there was adequate nourishment in the seed, you may need to provide
fertilizer occasionally to the transplants. It should be a weak solution. Most transplants will not thrive if they are watered only occasionally! Use tepid water on young plants rather than cold water from the tap.
It is usually recommended that you handle the seedlings by their leaves rather than by the stem which latter method may damage the structure of the stem.
Good transplanting!
Dr. Fisher is Past President of theMen s Garden Club, and serves on theBoard ofthe Civic Garden Centre and as Chairman ofthe Programme Committee.
Rhododendrons and Azaleas
Continued from page 16
Further Information
The Library at the Civic Garden Centre has a number of good books on rhodos and azaieas. The definitive treatises are the following: D. G. Leach, Rhododendrons of the World; and F. Lee, The Azalea Book. New editions of each of these books should be available in the next year or so.
PART TWO CULTURAL
REQUIREMENTS will appear in the next issue of TRELLIS.
Mr. Donald Oke is an Executive Member of theRhododendron Society ofCanada.
Photos in this article were taken by M. Hancock; prints made by G. Phillips.
Correction
Postal code for Moore Water Gardens, Port Stanley, Ontario, should read NOL 2A0
The Chinese Flowering Dogwood flowers in mid-June with creamy white to slightly pinkish bracts. Autumn colour is scarlet with red fruit clusters. This plant is just one of an exceptionally wide choice in ornamental shrubs available from Sheridan Nurseries.
