and distributors of quality garden plants and craft products . HAMILTON
NOdW 7 beautlfUI 2500 Barton Street East arden stores to serve you ParkwayPlaza g y Centennial and Barton St.
WHITBY
UNIONVILLE i 1242 Dundas St. E. No. 7 Highway SCARBOROUGH West of Thickson Rd. East of Woodbine Ave. 1306 Kennedy Rd. East of Anderson St. West of Kennedy Rd. South of Highway 401 668-7505 297-3330 North of Lawrence Ave.
ETOBICOKE
MISSISSAUGA
s 1582 The Queensway 335 Dundas St. E. CAMBRIDGE Between Kipling Ave. East of Highway 10 561 Hespeler Rd. and Highway 427 West of Cawthra Rd. Highway 24 255-0725 27122727 500 yds. S. of Highway 401 621-5281
Open 7days a week
July, 1979
Volume 6, Number 4
In this issue
Cover picture: Pepper. Sweet Yellow Dutch Treat. All-America Selections Bronze medal 1979. Yellow fruits turn scarlet, then deep red, growing sweeter and thicker-fleshed as they mature.
Chrysanthemums/6
A year-round work program for preserving natural materials/9
The cutting garden/11
Programme Schedule July-December/13
Rhododendrons and azaleas Part II/18
In the Library/23
Now is the time/24
Publication Committee :
James Floyd (Chairman), Jerry Maccabe, Mary Smith, William Stennson, Clive E. Goodwin
Editor: Fredrik Kirby
Advertising: Shirley Kirby (416) 226-0996
Graphics and Printing Drewmark Graphics, Toronto
General Information 1ssn 03801470
Trellis is published in the months of January, March, May, July, September, and November and distributed on or about the 15th of the month previous by the Civic Garden Centre, 777 Lawrence Avenue East, Don Mills, Ontario M3C 1P2. Telephone: (416) 445-1552. The Centre is located in Edwards Gardens, at Leslie Street and Lawrence Avenue East, the geographical centre of Metropolitan Toronto. It is a non-profit gardening and floral arts information organization with open membership. Subscriptions to Trellis are only available through Centre membership (10 per year). Opinions expressed within do not necessarily reflect those of the Centre.
You can enjoy all these benefits when you subscribe to TRELLIS horticulture and gardening magazine.
1. You become a member ofThe Civic Garden Centre. You will receive special members rates on all courses. You receive TRELLIS by mail every two months. It contains timely articles by outstanding authors; how-to-stories and seasonal suggestions; news of events and courses held at The Civic Garden Centre.
4. You may register for craftcourses,seespecialshows, hearqualified speakers.
You can borrow freefrom over 3,000 gardeningbooks.
6. You SAVE 10% on purchases over $2.00 at the Garden andBookShops.
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THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE
AUDITOR S REPORT
We have examined the statement of financial position of The Civic Garden Centre as at December 31, 1978 and the statements of accumulated excess of revenues over expenses, and revenue and expenses for the year then ended. Inouropinion, thesefinancialstatementspresentfairlythefinancialpositionof TheCivicGardenCentreasatDecember31, 1978andtheresultsofitsoperations for the year.
In the fall, chrysanthemum blooms are cut to use in arrangements. Have you ever noticed the stem? It is hard and woody in texture, sometimes requiring a slit up the stem to allow the intake of water. This is the type of woody plant or stool you plan to leave in your garden over winter. If you leave a piece of wood in a wet area over winter, by spring time the wood has rotted. The same applies to your chrysanthemum plant. The sun shines bright and strong during the coldest days, the woody stems thaw out and the plant sits in water during the day. At night, temperatures are below zero and the plants are once more frozen. This process continues and by spring, your plant, instead of being ready to give an abundance of cuttings, is either rotted or in the process, either way, not suitable for reproduction.
Chrysanthemums are recommended as hardy. This is not quite true; certain precautions are necessary. They can be kept frozen solid, and also be put under the greenhouse bench and kept dormant at 40°. Around the foundation ofyour home is good drainage and certain heat from the house. In sandy soil, they winter in the open ground. First, allow me to say that if you have already found a tried and true method to over-winter your stools, stay with it.
For the gardener who has limited time to spare, the foundation method is best. Around the outside wall of your dwelling, dig a trench one spade deep. In October, after the frost has spoiled your blooms, cut down the main stem to 10 to 12 inches and cut off all growth at ground level. Dig the plants up, label correctly, and transfer to the foundation trench. In
Gigantic chrysanthemumshybridized by Shoesmith ten days time, trim the stems to6 inches. They are now settled for the winter. The low bush types, which have provided your garden with the finest display of colour and form: the spoon, spider, button, single and pom, taller sprays and the giant football varieties, have all been wintered successfully in this manner.
In late March or early April, these plants produce an abundance of cuttings, ready for you to propagate. On the other hand, you can leave the beautiful green growth until you are ready to plant out around the 24th of May. The stools can then be lifted from their winter resting place, the lovely green growths will each have formed a root. Dislodge each green shoot gently, trying to keep the root intact. Plant out according to your garden plan colour, height, type, etc. This is successful and very easy. Water in thoroughly and lightly spray the foliage for the first few days until they settle down. They will soon form mounds of green foliage and bloom according to variety, from August until frost.
It is also an excellent idea at this time to use up any excess plants. These can be grown in pots on the patio all summer, or they can be grown in the vegetable patch, when the pea pod harvest is over. If you have damage or spaces in your garden display, they are your instant replacements. Many nurseries sell their replacements in the fall, so why not grow your own.
Do not confuse these potted mums with pots available all year from florists and other stores. These are different altogether. They are a number of small cuttings planted around the pot, grown under a daylight and darkness procedure to induce the cutting to bloom out of season. These varieties, if grown in your garden, will grow five feet tall and bloom in late October and seldom before frost.
The first pinch when the plants are settled in the ground, the new growth of about % inch is gently rubbed out. This allows the plant to put the energy to the leaf axils. Each leaf axil will produce a growth and double the size of your plant. If your plant is robust and strong, when the leaf axil growth has formed, once again you can rub the central growth and double the size and form. A word of caution. It is to be noted that each pinch delays the bloom another two weeks. The first pinch is necessary, the next is up to your desire for displays. There is no secret, just use
common sense.
Plants require a good soaking every ten days, not lightly watered and no more until needed. If the ground is in good condition, they require no feeding. Keep a sharp lookout for insects, spray regularly with insecticide.
The bush types require no staking. The taller spray varieties grow 21 to 3 feet and require staking and tying. One pinch only on the tall sprays and these produce on each flowering stem a spray with four to seven blooms, beautiful for use in floral art. The exhibition or football mums , as many people call them, can be grown similarly to the above. The type you choose to grow is for you to decide. With the sprays and bush varieties, no matter how much you disbud, the end product is still a small flower. The giant will grow disbudded to be larger. If you do not disbud, you still have a lovely spray to use.
To grow exhibition chrysanthemums, an interesting hobby, requires more time effort and work. It entails a time span of nine months, with very few breaks, to carry out the many proper procedures:
The first important point is to mark your good stock. These are the plants which produced the finest quality blooms, well shaped, with true characteristics. All oval shaped, misshapen, double centres, discoloured foliage etc., must be broken up and put in the garbage.
John Dickson with pr-winnng crysanthes
SYMetroTorontoZoo
There s more than animals at our Zoo. We have one ofthe largest plant collections in Canada in three acres of indoor pavilions. s
AMEGIT: HIGHWAY 401 DETROIT
On Meadowvale Road, north of the 401 in Scarborough.
For information call: 284-0123 (recorded)
OPEN YEAR ROUND
Only the best is kept. This is true roguing of stock. Name each plant clearly, cut off the remaining flowers, leaving at least 18 inches of stem on the stools you plant to propagate from next year. This is very important. The sap will go slowly back into the stool. If you cut the stem down immediately, there is a strong possibility you could poison the root system. The surge of sap is too fast and the plant is unable to cope. Leave your stool for a week, then cut to a final 6 to 9 inches.
Materials needed to prepare for winter storage in cold frames are grape boxes, secateurs, insecticide, fresh soil, peat, two buckets, garden hose, watering can, disinfectant, garden fork, bale of straw, plastic, burlap, 2 x 4 pieces of wood, rubber gloves.
Make sure everything is clean. Hose out cold frame and grape boxes, wash with disinfectant. Fill the grape box with fresh soil and peat to around 3 inches. Cold frame position should be on a well drained site so that when spring thaw arrives, they will not be swimming in water. Insects have eggs hidden everywhere so better to be extra careful now, than to open up a haven of insects in the spring. Staple a liner of plastic on the inside of the cold frame. Lay 2 x 4 pieces of wood on the bottom to set your grape boxes on. This is to eliminate the hazard of boxes frozen to the ground when you go to take the boxes inside in the spring for propagation.
Footnote: We warmly invite all readers and friends to visit the Early Chrysanthemums Show at the Centre September 15th and 16th. *
John Dickson, Canadian Chrysanthemum and Dabhlia Society, is a well-known amateur grower and top award winner in Chrysanthemum classifications. Chrysanthemum article will be concluded in September issue.
A YEAR-ROUND WORK PROGRAMME FOR PRESERVING NATURAL MATERIALS
byEileen Brooks
Contrary to the popular view, plant material can be collected for preserving throughout the year. Winter and early spring can be productive even if quantities are smaller. The accompanying calendar gives a simple guide to what you can be doing each month, bearing in mind that in any given year, with weather fluctuations, picking times can deviate by a few weeks. A wet summer will produce blooms with more water retention so that drying will take 1 or 2 days longer, and viceversa.
Keep a log of the places, periods and species found it will be a boon each succeeding year as your finds accumulate, or sadly (with urban sprawl) disappear under earth removers. It s also useful when swopping information with interested January arrangements.
friends. Better still, enlist their help in picking if they are going that way.
The calendar is coded to assist you in the preferred treatment method everything unmarked should be silica dried. Some flower foliage can be silica dried, as the colour remains steadfast, but handling is brittle. This is also true of ferns, which can be pressed as an alternative, but for durability we prefer glycerining.
Thecodeis: A ......air dried. B......can be bleached using 50% household bleach and 50 % water. (Etadidglycerine, using 1/3 glycerine and 2/3 warm water in initial mix. Split stem ends a few inches and stand upright in container. Glglycerine, but completely immerse in a bath of the liquid, for best results. Bhiie press.
Look on vines, bushes, etc. for material to give line to your
A. Wild or cultivated seed pod heads.
B. Teasels, Queen Anne s Lace heads etc.
P. Indoor ferns, carrot tops, parsley, dill, etc.
February Order seeds and plants desired for your preserving pleasure.
A. Forced pussy willow.
Force early blooming branches, e.g. forsythia, for both normal andpressed usage.
P. Any indoor small blooms available, e.g. Cineraria, African violet.
March As above.
Treat yourself to a few stems of freesia or carnations for preserving.
April Snowdrops, scillas, grape hyacinths, small-trumpet hardydaffodils, iris, tulips. Avoid large blooms. They are inclined to floppinessorturningopaque, andpronetore-absorbingmoisturelater in season even ifwell boxed.
May Flowering bush branches. Early annuals and perennials. In addition press all available blooms.
Gl. Lily-of-the-valley leaves
Watch for early signs of reed-mace (sometimes called bulrush).
June
July
August
Annuals and perennials.
Early field yarrow and green dock. P. buttercups, vetch, early Queen Anne s Lace. Check maturity of early reed-mace, deciduous trees. Annuals, perennials.
A. Poppy, iris and other seed heads green or ripening. Grass varieties. Rushes. Grains.
G. Beech, oak, mountain ash, hawthorn, etc., also fruit tree branches.
Gl. Ferns, brackens, magnolia leaves. P. Wild andcultivatedflowers, leaves andgrasses. Avoid petunias, asters and some daisy varieties as they easily shatter.
As above.
A. Ripening dock, milkweed pods, golden-rod, etc. Look for pampas and plume grasses.
G. Euonymus, box, Pyracantha, Vinca, Pachysandra, Russian olive.
Except for northern cottage country, it is now generally too late for reed-mace andgrasses theywilldisintegrateearly indoors. Look for mosses, hardy fungus, driftwood. Sprayallwithinsecticide andleaveindryplaceforminimumof6monthsbeforeusing. Clean. Turnoften.
September
As above.
G. Engdlish ivy andanyotherbranchesiftheyarestillverygreen.
P. Anything still in bloom before frost hits. Large blooms can be broken down and individual petals treated.
Large chrysanthemums and dahlias usually shatter. Staywith small pom varieties.
As abovewherematerialstill available. Evergreens arebeginning to go dormant, but still possible to GI. if not badly frosted. Start personalised gift making with all your collected materials.
Review the previous collectingseason. Tidy andstoreremaining material. Plan forfollowingseason early seed and/or plants desired for your preserving programme. *
Mrs. Brooks is coordinatorofthe Centre s DriedFlower Workshop.
Mini Rose Nursery
Specializing in Miniature Roses
For 1979 Listing write
Florence Gahagan
P.O. Box 873, Guelph, Ontario N1H 6M6
CALVERT PARTY SERVICES
CATERING
Weddings, cocktail parties, buffet dinners, banquets, plant openings, open house. For more information call: 755-5244
85 Jonesville Cr. Metro-wide service
THE CUTTING GARDER
byMargaret G. Dove
The cutting garden need not be a space set aside solely to grow cutting material. In the average city and suburban home garden where space is usually limited, intelligent planting andone s preferences will include cutting material in the garden the entire year.
Of necessity, we mention only a limited number of plants. For detailed information consult nursery and seed catalogues. They provide listings of the wide range of materials available along with guides to their culture.
Bulbs Spring-floweringbulbs provide quantities of cutting material. Small bulbs such as snowdrops and winter aconite can be readily available when in group plantings near the house. Largeflowered kinds, the daffodils, tulips and hyacinths can be placedfor gatheringin advantageous areas throughout the garden.
Another wealth ofcuttingbloom will be obtainedfrom the springplanted summer-flowering bulbs, corms and tubers. They include lilies, gladiolus, dahlias, tuberous begonias, clivias, montbretias and Hymenocallis.
Shrubs Early and late flowering deciduous shrubs also give quantities of cutting bloom. Lovely forsythia, flowering quince (Chaenomeles japonica) are followed by lilacs in many varieties such as the French hybrids which bear huge clusters of single or double flowers in a beautiful colour range.
As lilacs fade, the beauty bush (Kolkwitzia) bursts into bloom. Arching branches are ladenwith belllike pink flowers. From midsummer until late fall the hydrangeas give excellent cutting material.
To-day s roses are tailored to fit every type of garden. Where there is
space for only one kind, choose the floribundas for their floriferousness. If tough, hardy roses are needed, plant shrub roses. The new varieties bloom almost continuously from early June until heavy frost when they will have produced large, red, decorative rose hips.
Vines Perennial and annual flowering vines require little planting space and give rich rewards in cutting material.
Depending on yourchoice of varieties you may have single or double flowers in various colours throughout the season from the largeflowered hybrid clematis. All ofthe buds on a piece of cut clematis vine will open inwater if the stem ends are conditioned by burning immediately after cutting.
The climbinghydrangea (H. petiolaris) is a handsomewoody vine covered in early summer with large, flat, white flowers. Every part ofthis deciduous vine, branching stems, foliage and flowers, may be used in decorative work.
Lathyrus latifolius (perennial pea) is an herbaceous perennial vine usually grown from seed. The rampant grower bears longstemmed pink and white flower clusters during July and August.
Perennials Well chosen herbaceous perennials also delight a flower grower. Interest in cutting material is created by spikey, round and in-between forms having various heights, textures and colours as well as foliage with good lasting qualities.
Oriental poppies have brilliantly coloured flowers suitable for cutting. When properly treated, the blooms will last from three to seven days in water. In the early morning, select newly opened flowers and budsjust
showing colour. Cut stems the desired length and sear the ends immediately with the flame of a match, lighter, or candle. Then place in water. If re-cutting is required burn the stem ends again.
The peony is a universal favourite and one ofthe most beautiful and hardiest ofthe early summerflowering perennials. The plants are noted for the lovely long lasting flowers and cut foliage.
During late summer and fall hardy chrysanthemums also present a glorious display of colour for long lasting indoor bouquets.
Foliage Foliage interest is now a planned element in a cutting garden. Forthosewholiketo garden _ creatively in the shade, Hosta plantings are ideal. The handsome plants come in large, medium, and small-leaved varieties and provide flowers as well as the foliage for cutting.
Annuals Annual plants give a succession of flowers and foliage all summer long. They come in such a great variety of colours, forms, textures, and heights that an interesting and entire garden could be planted, using annuals alone.
Lack ofspace need not act as a deterrent because there is almost no limit to where you can grow annuals. As spring-flowering bulbs fade and bare spaces appear, seeds of shallowrooting annuals can be sown or a few plants transplanted among the bulbs, there to grow and fill in the spaces during the summer. Annuals can be planted in a well established perennial border to give interest and colour when early-flowering and other perennials cease to bloom. They can be grown in portable containers to be easily moved to wherever you wish. They will flourish in window-boxes, garden urns, hanging baskets and on balconies. Annuals may be used as
edging plants and will thrive in convenient places in a vegetable garden.
Beds of annuals alone create pleasant garden pictures and supply an unlimited amount of cutting material. Annuals are often called cut and come again flowers, as new flowers continue to appear if the old ones are cut immediately they fade before seed pods form.
The majority of flowering annuals must be grown in full sun. Six hours daily is their liking. There are, however, some beautiful and floriferous shade-loving annual plants. Evergreens Needled and broadleaved evergreens will supply cutting material throughout the year. There are kinds to be grown in the sun or shade, to be used in various ways as in background or foundation plantings, as accent plants, ground covers and as climbers.
Mahonia aquifolium is a broadleaved evergreen flourishing in semi shade. The shrubby plant has shiny, holly-like foliage, and clusters of yellow flowers which appear in May are followed by small blue fruits.
Euonymus evergreens of varying habit supply quantities of useful cutting material by judicious pruning as also does English ivy (Hedera helix Baltica). It climbs to great height on the shady side of a building. The vine is also used as a ground cover in semi-shade.
The cut stem ends of all woody plants must be well crushedor slit up an inch or so before placing in water.
The informal garden design having free-flowing contours with plantings melting and merging will create a pleasing and practical garden effect with some type of cutting material always readily available. >
MargaretDove is a PastPresident ofboth the MilneHouse Garden Club and the Garden Club of Toronto. She is a well known writer on gardening matters.
This is your programme
for the next 6 months
THE
CIVIC
GARDEN CENTRE EDWARDS GARDENS
777 Lawrence Ave. East, Don Mills, M3C 1P2
PROGRAMME SCHEDULEJULY DECEMBER 1979
PROGRAMME SUBJECTTO CHANGE
Times for events from September on will appear in subsequent issues.
September 15-16 Canadian Chrysanthemum Society Show
September 17
September 17
September 17
September 18
September 21
September 21
September 23
September 26
Introductory Decoupage course starts
Botanical Art course starts
Chinese Brush Painting course starts
Quilting course starts
Rug Hooking course starts
Applique course starts
Canadian Rose Society Fall Show
Joint Hobby Greenhouse-Horticulture Night
September 29-30 Foreign Bird Society Show
October 4
October 11
October 12-13
October 15
October 16
October 18
October 22
October 24
October 27-28
October 29
Pot Pourri Workshop
Nori Zome course starts
Civic Garden Centre Indoor Plant Sale
Dried Flowers Workshop
Basic 2 Flower Arranging coursestarts
House Plant course starts
Pine Cone Crafts Workshop
Horticulture Night Dr. Hilton
Canadian Chrysanthemum Society Late Show
Pressed Flowers & Corn Husk Crafts Workshop
November 5 Advanced Needlepoint course starts
November 7 Capsule Review Flower Arrangingcoursestarts
November 20 Horticulture Night Mr. Keith Squires on Mexican Plants
November 23-25 Civic Garden Centre Christmas Greens &Sparkle Show
EVENTS ELSEWHERE
The NorthAmerican Lily Society International Show will be held at theRoyal Botanical Gardens on July 13, 14 and 15.
PROGRAMME HIGHLIGHTS FOR THE FALL
Twonewcourses,inAppliqueand Chinese Brush Painting, arebeingoffered,in addition to all our regular courses returning.
We rechangingtheapproachtoHorticultural Nights. Thisfalltherewillbeone general one, in OctoberwhenDr. RobertHiltonwillbespeakingonsomenative plantsthatwe llbeseeinginourgardensinthefuture.InSeptemberwe rearrangingajoint programmeonhomegreenhouseswiththeHobbyGreenhousegroup. Then in November we re hoping to arrange ajoint programmewiththe Toronto FieldNaturalists Botany Group. Watchformoredetailsonthis.Thedateisn tset yet for a planned workshop (workshops?) onApartment andBalcony Gardening. Watch the next Trellis for this.
Also watch for the fall series ofIntroductory Agriculture Courses, from the UniversityofGuelph.
FLOWER ARRANGING COURSES
September 12 BASIC FLOWERARRANGING 6week course on Wednesdays, 1:30p.m. and8:00p.m.
This course offersthebeginner the principles and elements of good design in flower arranging. Fee $15.00 members.
September 12 ORIENTALFLOWER ARRANGING 3 week course on Wednesdays, 10:00 a.m. 3:00p.m.
Mrs. Kadoguchi, renowned Sensei ofthe Ikenobo School, will again give this very popularcourse. Branchesandflowerswillbe providedfor approximately $2.50 aday. Fee: $20.00 members.
September 13 BASICFLOWERARRANGING 6weekcourseonThursdays at 1:30 p.m. and 8:00 p.m. See September 12 for details. Fee: $15.00members.
October 16 ~ BASIC COURSE PART 2 FLOWERARRANGING 3week course on Tuesdays at 10:00 a.m. 3:00 p.m.
This course is an extension of Basic Flower Arranging into Contemporary Concepts of Floral Design.Fee:$15.00members.
November 7 CAPSULE REVIEW 2 week course on Wednesdays at 10:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.
* Canadian Chrysanthemum & Dahlia Society: Starts at 8:00 p.m. on: July 26, August 23, October 25 and November 29.
* Canadian Rose Society: September 23.
* Hobby Greenhouse: Starts at 8:00 p.m. on: September 26, October 31 and November 28.
Indoor Light Gardening Society: Starts 8:00p.m. on: September 12, October 10, November 14 and December 12.
* Men s Garden Club: Starts at 8:00 p.m. on September 4, October 2, November 6and December 4.
Southern Ontario Orchid Society: 1:00 p.m. 5:00 p.m. on: September 9, September 30, November 4 and December 2.
* Toronto Bonsai Society: Starts at 8:00 p.m. on: September 10, October 8, November 12 and December 10.
* Toronto Gesneriad Society: 2:00 p.m. 4:00 p.m. on: September 9, October 7, November 11 and December 9.
Junior Garden Clubs
* Enthusiasts: Starts9:45a.m. on:October20, November 17andDecember 15.
* Green Thumbs: Starts 9:45 a.m. on: September 8, September 29, November 10 and December 8.
WORKSHOPS AND COURSES
Registration is required for all classes and workshops
Please use the form provided on p. 17 and mail proper remittance
We regret no confirmation of registration can be sent
September 10 BEGINNERS NEEDLEPOINT 5weekcourseonMondays at 1:00p.m. and 8:00 p.m.
Inthiscourseasampler willbeworked,andstudentswillbetaught awide range oftechniques. Fee: $20.00 members, $25.00 nonmembers.
September 11 LANDSCAPE ART 8 week courseonTuesdaysat 10:00a.m. 12:30 p.m.
This new course teaches the basic principles of composition, design, perspectiveandcolour, aswell asvariousdrawingandoil paintingtechniques.Fee:$38.00members,$43.00non-members.
September 11 DECOUPAGE DECORATED GLASSWARE 6week course on Tuesdays at 10:00 a.m. 12:00 noon. This six week course will give instruction in the decoration of glassware using rice paper and coloured backgrounds. Fee: $25.00 members, $30.00 non-members.
September 17 BOTANICALART 6weekcourseonMondaysat 10:00a.m. 3:00 p.m.
Theseclasseswill behandledflexibly, to allowstudentstopursue
This newcoursewilldiscussthephilosophyofChineseArt, have guest artists demonstrating various techniques, practise some calligraphy, and generally introducethe students to the delight and intricacies ofthis delicate art form. There will be classes for both the absolute beginner and the more experienced artist. The course is also valuable for those wishing to improvetheirwatercolour brush techniques. Fee: $50.00 members, $55.00 nonmembers.
DECOUPAGE
INTRODUCTORY 10 week course course on Mondays at 1:30 p.m. 3:30 p.m.
Decoupage is the art of cutting out paper and using with other materials. Thiscoursewill give anintroductiontothesubjectand studentswill be taught how to cut, design objects and varnish. Fee: $40.00 members, $45.00 non-members.
September 18
September 21
September 21
QUILTING 10week course on Tuesdays at 1:30p.m.
This coursehastwoinstructors andquiltcanbecompletedinthe 10 weeks. Fee: $50.00 members, $55.00 non-members.
RUG HOOKING 8week course on Fridays at 10:00 a.m.
One ofthe Centre s most popular courses. This fallMrs. Clarke Sherbowill cover basic rughooking, andfor advancedstudents shewill give instruction in crewel as applied to rug hooking. Fee: $32.00 members, $36.00 non-members.
APPLIQUE 3workshopsonFridays at 10:00a.m. 3:00p.m.
This new course will teach methods ofappliqueto garments and children s clothing, andshowmanyusefulneedlecrafttechniques and tricks of the trade. Fee: $23.00 members, $25.00 nonmembers.
October 4
October 11
October 18
POT POURRI 1 dayworkshop on Thursday. Thesecondoftwoworkshops, thisdealswith blending. Registration for this was taken at the firstworkshop.
NORI-ZOME 5 week course on Thursdays at 1:00 p.m.
This is the traditional Japanese Art ofdyeing fabrics, such as komonos and modern art works, usinga flour paste resist and applyingthedyeswithabrush.Fee:$40.00members,$45.00nonmembers.
HOUSE PLANT COURSE 6 week course on Thursdays at 8:00 p.m.
A courseinthebasiccareandmaintenanceofhouseplants,with emphasis on the practical. Fee: $10.00 members, $12.00nonmembers.
November 5
INTERMEDIATE NEEDLEPOINT
4week course on Mondays at 1:00 p.m. Fee: $20.00 members, $25.00 nonmembers.
WINTER BOUQUET WORKSHOPS
October 15 DRIED FLOWERS 3 sessions ofworkshops at 1:30 and 7:30 p.m.
October 22 PINE CONE CRAFTS 3 sessions ofworkshops at 1:30and 7:30 p.m.
October 29 PRESSED FLOWERS & CORN HUSK CRAFTS 1:30 and 7:30 p.m.
HouseplantsforourHousePlantSale,Oct. 12-13.Moredetailslater,butwe re hopingto feature a special, members plants only salethen. Wealsoneedvolunteersfortheshops,andapersonwithlibraryexperienceto helpwith the cataloguefiling. CalltheCentre (445-1552) ifyouwouldliketohelp.
THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE
777 Lawrence Ave. E., Don Mills, Ontario
NAME (PRINT) MEMBERSHIP & PHONE NO.
ADDRESS CIEY
PLEASE REGISTER ME FOR THE FOLLOWING EVENTS CLASS OR WORKSHOP TIME EEE
CODE
O I would like to take advantageofreduced rates offered members and enclose $10.00 for my annual fee (add $2.50 for each additional family member) Totalenclosed_______
CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE HOURS
Weekdays 9.30 a.m. to 4.00 p.m. Wednesdays 9.30 a.m. t0 9.00p.m. Saturdays and Holidays 10.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m. Sundays 1.00 p.m. to 4.00 p.m.
Library closed on Sundays and Holidays
Rhododendrons and .Azaleas
PART I
by Donald Oke
Native Habitat
The key to understanding the cultural requirements of rhododendrons and azaleas is to recognize that these plants are found in nature chiefly in mountainous areas. About thirty species are found in North America, primarily in the Appalachian Mountains, with a half dozen in the Cascade Range on the West Coast, and another two or three across the Arctic from Alaska to Labrador. Four species originate in Europe, essentially in the Swiss Alps, and six come from Asia Minor, especially from the Caucasus Mountains. The bulk of known species, about 900 of them, originate in Asia. Primarily, these are found in the Himalaya Mountains or their foothills in a great arc running from Tibet, through South East Asia and China to Korea, Japan and the Pacific coast of Siberia. Typically, in these mountainous locations, the genus Rhododendron lives in woodlands or coniferous forests at the lower elevations, and in open exposed locations at higher elevations. The standard-sized plants are inhabitants of woodlands, and the dwarfs, by and large, come from the exposed mountain peaks. Rainfall is always heavy, at least in some seasons of the year, and fog and mists abound. Snowfall is likely to be deep, especially at the higher elevations. The soil is very well drained, never marshy. Winter temperatures down to about 0°F are usual, or if they are lower, they occur in areas of heavy snowfall. Summer temperatures are likely to be moderate, perhaps no more than 70°F at the higher altitudes, but warmer of course in such lower areas as Japan.
Surviving in such conditions from long dry cold winters to excessively humid semi-tropical summers, has made these plants remarkably adaptable to extreme situations.
Of course, Toronto is not Tibet. Nevertheless, with a little help from the understanding gardener, these plants can live happily in our conditions, thanks to their adaptability. Basically, rhododendrons and azaleas want mid-day shade in the summer to moderate excessive heat. They want some shelter from dryingwinds at any time of year. They want some consideration in the extremes of winter cold. They want sharp drainage, which is a way of saying they need a well aerated soil. And, for their nutritional needs, they want an acid soil such as occurs naturally in their native environment.
Choice ofSite
Woodlands are ideal locations for rhododendrons and azaleas because they provide the conditions of light dappled shade, wind protection, retention of snow cover, and regular mulch of leaves that these plants prefer. Those of us that do not live in woodlands can still be guided by this ideal.
All rhododendrons prefer some shade during the hottest part of the day. But, they also need some sun, or at least, bright daylight for good growth and flower production. As a rule, we should try to give the standard sized broad-leaved rhododendrons about 50 per cent shade. Shadow for two or three hours around noon, and sun in early morning and late afternoon is perfect. The dappled shade of trees is better
Frans vander Bom Mollis azalea hybrid (Photo by M. Hancock)
than the solid shade of buildings or fences. Open shade with exposure to clear sky above is better than closed shade under overhanging branches. The dwarf rhododendrons should have considerably more than 50 per cent sun. Small leaved types want relatively more sun. Large leaved types want less. Excessive sun produces burning ofthe leaves. Excessive shade produces leggy plants and fewer flowers.
Deciduous azaleas can take a lot of sun, even full exposure, so far as their leaves are concerned. However, the flowers are such thin textures that they will wilt sadly ifthere happensto be a heat-wave in May, which is not unusual. Therefore, primarily to give a good display of flowers, deciduous azaleas should also have some midday shade.
Obtusum azaleas, by contrast to their cousins, can take a very wide range of light conditions from heavy shade to full sun, without appreciably affecting the health of the foliage or the formation of flowers. Some of the flower colours tend to bleach in the sun. The plant habit of the Obtusum azaleas, however, is influenced by the light. Shade gives more open plants, sun more compact ones.
To some extent, with all of these plants, you have to proceed by trial and error. Watch their reactions, and move them if they are unhappy. The season for planting or replanting rhododendrons and Obtusum azaleas runs from Spring thaw until late May, and then again from midSeptember to mid-October. Deciduous azaleas, however, should be moved only when they are dormant, in early spring or late fall.
Wind and Cold Protection
The broad leaves of the rhododendrons provide large surfaces in which their processes of transpiration take place. These large leaf areas are ideally suited to conditions of high humidity. In dry climates, and especially in wind-swept locations, they may suffer undue desiccation. In the built-up areas of Toronto, with substantial numbers of trees, houses, and fences in close proximity, our gardens are not usually exposed to excessive winds over most of the year. One should be alert to the occasional wind-swept location, however, such as at the corner of the house.
The significant problem in Toronto occurs with the evergreen types of rhodos and azaleas in the winter. During the cold months, we do have strong drying winds at the time when the ground is frozen. These plants continue to carry out their processes of transpiration under these obviously difficult circumstances. It is a testimonial to their adaptive processes that they are able to do so.
The gardener can assist his plants during the winter in several ways. First, the plants shouldinitially be located to take maximum advantage of the natural shelter provided by existing trees, buildings and fences. The rhododendron planting might well be complemented with additional plantings of conifers both for their ornamental and their protective
value. Secondly, all of these plants should be provided every fall with a generous mulch of organic matter leaves, conifer needles, compost, and so on. A mulch as much as six to ten inches deep, depending on the size of plant, serves to provide protection from deep freezing of the soil, as well as nutrition over the years ahead as the mulch disintegrates. Thirdly, special protective devices canbe arranged for the winter. The easiest device is to save your own and your neighbour s Christmas trees and lay these near your rhodos to provide a windbreak, to hold the snow, and to give some additional shade from the late winter sun. The trees can be cut up (try using a meat cleaver or butcher knife against a stump) and put in the compost in early April. Occasionally, gardeners erect burlap screens and other similar devices to protect their rhodos. This, however, should notbe necessary for plants that are initially selected as being hardy in this area, unless the site is unusually exposed. Winter hardiness is more a sensitivity to rapid fluctuations in temperature, than it is a questionjust of cold. Protective
devices should therefore be designed to moderate these extreme fluctuations.
Soil Texture and Acidity
The Rhododendron genus has a characteristic root structure consisting of many fine rootlets in a compact, shallow ball. This structure is suited to the conditions found in a forest floor with plenty of organic matter. More particularly, it is adapted to the climatic conditions in which these plants originate, where heavy precipitation leaches out salts from the soil, and cool temperatures result in the organic matter decaying rather slowly. Thus, the soil texture is very coarse, and in spite of heavy rains, it is well drained and well aerated. Moreover, the slowly decaying organic matter is highly acid in reaction.
The natural soil in most parts of the Toronto area is not suitable for rhododendron culture without some adjustment. Our natural soil is a rather heavy clay loam, which rhodo roots cannot easily penetrate. This soil does not usually drain quickly. And our soil is not naturally acid, but rather close to neutral in chemical reaction.
Most gardeners solve the three problems of drainage, texture and acidity in one step, by constructing raised beds of highly organic soil for their rhododendrons and azaleas. These beds can be constructed by excavating the existing garden soil to a depth offour or six inches. This top soil can then be combined with organic matter (compost, leaves, pine needles, peat moss) and sand, approximately in the proportions 40 per cent top soil, 40 per cent organic, and 20 per cent sand. This new soil mixture should then be built up above the original soil level to a height ofat least six or eight inches. The sides of the bed can be held in place decoratively with stones, logs, or
Blue Ensign (Photo by M. Hancoc)
retaining walls of various sorts, if desired.
Soil acidity is a significant consideration for rhododendrons since it is intimately involved with their nutrition. Most Toronto soils would register 6.5 or 7.0 on the pH scale, which means slightly acid to neutral. Roses, fruit trees, and many vegetables and flowers prefer a more acid soil than this, say down to 6.0. But rhodos and azaleas want a very acid soil in the range of 4.5 to 5.5 on the pH scale. The explanation for these preferences is that the various nutritional elements nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium, iron, and s0 on become available to plants at certain levels of acidity, but not at others. Consequently, maintaining the wrong level of acidity for the plants you are growing is equivalent to starving them, no matter how much fertilizer you add.
Some of the organic material you add to the soil is naturally acidic. Oak leaves, pine needles, and peat moss are highly acid. Maple and most other of the common deciduous leaves are not acid in the raw state, although they become more so when they are composted. However, even rather copious quantities of these acid organic additives, combined with Toronto top soil, may not bring the pH level down sufficiently for rhodos and azaleas. You are likely to need to draw upon one of the chemical additives as well.
One chemical, aluminum sulphate, is widely available in garden centres for the purpose of acidifying soil for hydrangeas. Emphatically, aluminum sulphate should not be used for rhodos or azaleas since it is poisonous to these plants. A second chemical, powdered sulphur (flowers of sulphur) is available in small quantities from well stocked drug stores. Sulphur, however, is slow to act in the soil, taking many months to
become effective. The third chemical, ferrous sulphate, is available in industrial quantities from some ofthe commercial chemical companies, or in smaller quantities from the Rhododendron Society of Canada. Ferrous sulphate is fast acting, being effective within 24 hours. It also provides the nutritional element, iron, as well as being an acidifying agent.
None of these chemicals should be used without having first tested your soil for its pH value. Then you should have expert advice on the quantities of chemical to use for your situation. However, the beginner with rhododendrons can safely purchase some powdered sulphur and work it into his soil as he prepares his beds, at the rate of a pound to 100 square feet of soil. Ideally, the bed should be prepared in this way several months before the rhodos and azaleas are planted.
Regular Upkeep
Ifthe soil is initially well prepared, if the site is chosen wisely, and if the plants are selected to be suitable to the climate, then rhododendrons and azaleas will be among the least demanding of garden plants year after year over many decades. They are largely free of insect and disease problems. They need little pruning. Mulching makes them virtually weed free. Nevertheless, regular attention to several matters is desirable.
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The nutritional requirements for rhodos and azaleas should come primarily from the slowly decaying organic matter contained in the mulches placed in the fall. Any chemical fertilizing should be done much more sparingly than you might do other flowering shrubs such as roses. Fertilizer, specifically labelled as suitable for acid loving plants, probably with a composition similar to 30-10-10, can be used in the spring at two-or-three-week intervals. However, no nitrogen fertilizer should be used after June 15, or late growth is encouraged which may not harden properly before winter.
After a plant has finished flowering, each flower-head should be pinchedoff, to prevent seed formation and possible reduction of flower-bud formation for the next year. In taking off the spent flower-head, however, the adjacent growth tip on the branch should not be disturbed. This process is called dead-heading.
If there are not sufficient rains during the spring and early summer, rhodos and azaleas should receive a heavy watering about once a week. However, there should be no artificial watering from August 1 until November 15. Contrived dryness at this time of year encourages these plants to harden-off their tissues for the winter. Like all evergreens, rhodos and azaleas should receive a thorough watering prior to freeze-up in late November.
The single most important chore every year is the mulching of the plants in the fall, for purpose both
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of winter protection and nutrition. Oak leaves and pine needles are the ideal mulching materials because they remain loose and airy, and because their reaction is acidic. Some quantity of maple and other leaves can be used if you lack anything else, but large quantities ofthese leaves tend to pack down and cut air from the root balls of the plants. Some gardeners put their leaves through a rented shredder to cut them up. Compost is a good mulching material. Finally, attention to some protection from wind, cold and late winter sun is desirable. Placing a group of used Christmas trees around the plants is an easy way of providingwinter protection. X%
Mr. Donald Oke is an Executive Member of the Rhododendron Society of Canada.
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GARDEN PLANTING
Brookes, John. The small garden. 1977.
The author s emphasis is on the garden as an extension of the house. This profusely-illustrated book contains many stimulating ideas on garden layout, as well as plant selection and grouping, and ways to use special features such as paths, walls and terraces.
Givens, Harold. You can landscape it yourself: a handbook for home gardeners. 1977.
Part one covers planning and design, while part two deals with the selection of trees, shrubs, vines and flowers, with useful plant selection charts.
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RHODODENDRONS AND AZALEAS
Leach, David G. Rhododendrons of the world, and howto grow them. 1961.
This is a definitive and detailed work suitable for the more experienced amateur and the professional gardener. It includes complete descriptive lists of all rhododendron species and hybrids.
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Now isthetime
by Ernie Pope
(JULY 1 SEPT. 1st)
The ideas and methods suggested in these articles are those used successfully be the writer, in his own garden, unless otherwise stated. They are not by any means the only ways to get satisfactory results. Good gardeners continually learn from each other no matter how experienced they may be.
Mildew for years this fungus disease has been the despair of horticulturists, especially growers of perennial phlox, roses, zinnias, lilacs and tuberous begonias.
With the introduction in recent years of the systemic fungicide Benlate (trade name Benomyl), it is really possible toprevent mildew entirely. It is however most important to keep in mind that fungicides are a betterpreventative than a cure. Starting in mid June, you should spray at least once a month during the summer making sure that the plants are thoroughly drenched, both on top and underneath the leaves, and stems, as well as on the soil beneath each plant.
Benomyl may seem expensive (a 2 oz. jar sells for approximately $5.50) but as only two teaspoons per gallon of water are needed it goes a long way. A purchase of this size should last for at least two years in the average home garden.
Biennials from Seed
Some of the loveliest spring flowers are the biennials which as their name implies are planted one year and bloom the next. Then they usually die. Among thefavourites are Canterbury bells, English daisies, foxgloves, forget-menots, pansies, violas and sweet williams.
With the exception of pansies and forget-me-nots, they are seldom found in nurseries.
These can all be grown readily from seed. The time to plant them is from June 15th to July 10th, either in a cold frame or in plastic or wooden flats on a patio. Planting can also be done in the open ground, but is second best because the small seedlings are exposed to insect attacks and can easily be washed out by heavy summer rains.
As they bloom mostly in early spring, they should be transplanted into the garden about September 1st, and protected with a two inch covering of straw during the winter. It should be placed over plants as soon as the ground has frozen, on the surface, usually between November 20th to December 5th.
This extra work plus a shorter blooming period, is the chiefreason why they are not as popular as annuals. However, the results are well worth the effort. They are usually through blooming, and can be pulled up, by the time the annuals are ready to replace them.
Perennials from Seed While many perennials can only be increased by division or cuttings, a number of the most popular can be increased from seed, at a fraction of the cost of buying growing plants.
The time to start them is during the month of June. The method used is the same as for biennials.
The following are among the easiest: Aubretia Arabis Campanula Columbine Coreopsis
Delphinium
Evening Primrose
Liatris
Oriental Poppy
Pinks
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Saponaria
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Weed Killers on Lawns
The most effective way to eliminate weeds in the lawn is through the use of weed and feed fertilizers in early spring. Later after growth has started, it can be done with liquid weed killers of the type containing 2-4-D, MECOPROP and DICAMBA. However great care should be taken not to put the grass clippings in the compost pile for a least 60 days after application. They should be disposed of, or better still left on the lawn, as a mulch.
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One of the most difficult weeds to eliminate is knotweed, which hugs the ground, and thrives on wear and tear. Because ofits narrow leaves 2-4-D is not effective, but weed killers containing dicamba such as Killex or Spot Weeder, will do thejob.
Liquid sprays are most effective during the month of June, when the weed growth is soft and lush, and the temperatures not too high. They should not be used when the thermometer is over 25° centigrade (80° fahrenheit). If spraying pick a day when there is no wind, but not just before a rain or the effect will dissipate, as it takes several hours for
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2 the plants to absorb the solution. Never use it just before cutting the grass or until at least two days afterwards.
If you only have a few weeds, spot sprinkling with an old watering can is effective but the can should never be used again for any other purpose.
Clothes Hangers as Plant Supports
Satisfactory and long lasting stakes can be made easily, from ordinary metal clothes hangers, with wire cutters anda little hand bending. Number 1 is a steel hanger. Number 2 is the same hanger inverted. The handle can be easily pressed into most soils, except heavy clay, and is effective for holding back massed annuals such as petunias and calendulas from encroaching on the lawn, patio, or walks.
By careful placing, it can be hidden by the foliage. After a day or so of plant growth it will disappear entirely from view. Number 3 can be used for the same purpose. It will be more effective in heavy soils, and has a neater appearance. It is made by cutting off the handle at the neck, and shaping the two sides into a 90° rectangle. Number 4 is a taller type for staking individual plants. It can also be used for marking tulip clumps and late appearing perennials from year to year. It is created by cutting one side of the hanger, just below the point where it joins the neck of the handle, and bending it into a vertical position with the handle left on. This will result in a 36 inch stake, which is longer than normally needed. It can
be shortened to any length desired, the most useful being about 24 inches. Numbers 2 and 3 can be collected and stored during the winter, but where Number 4 is used as a marker rather than a support it canbe left outside and will last about three years.
Saving surplus Seeds
The number of seeds per package of some annuals, such as coleus, aster, snapdragon and petunia, is often far greater than needed. Once the package is opened deterioration sets in and in a few months the unplanted seeds are no longer viable.
However many seeds can be kept for several years, if the packages are resealed with a piece of scotch tape then placed in a covered glass bottle, and put in the refrigerator.
Oddly enough it seems that the smaller the seed the longer the life.
Mr. Bob Minett, a renowned grower of fiberous begonias, has begonia seed that has maintained its viability for at least five years using the above procedure.
You can t do this with all seeds, but it is surprising how many can be successfully carried over, especially the more popular annuals. Seed collected and saved from modern annuals grown in one s own garden seldom come true to type. X
Ernie Pope is a member ofthe Civic Garden Centre s Advisory Committee and a member ofNorth Toronto HorticulturalSociety. He is a regular contributor to the TRELLIS.
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