September1979
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v CRAFTS & NURSERY u
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ETOBICOKE MISSISSAUGA WHITBY UNIONVILLE 1582 The Queensway 335 Dundas St. E. 1242 Dundas St. E. No. 7 Highway Between Kipling Ave. East of Highway 10 West of Thickson Rd. East of Woodbine Ave. and Highway 427 West of Cawthra Rd. East of Anderson St. West of Kennedy Rd. 255-0725 277-2727 668-7505 297-3330
Open 7 days a week
WINNERS
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Miss Tina Pertmann, M.A. Pritchard, Caterers toToronto
Mrs. J.R. Dunn. since 1847
Congratulations to all three! Delicioss lbod delivered or picked up at our store.
city gardens
Interior and Exterior EVERYTHING forweddings, luncheons, cocktail parties.
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lan A. McCallum, B.Sc.(Agriculture) 366 Eglinton Ave. W., Toronto 446-1040 9:00 - 5:00 Monday to Friday
September, 1979
Volume 6, Number 5
In this issue
Cover picture: Little Linda by Harmon Saville, noted hybridizer of miniature roses, Director ofthe American Rose Society, and accredited rosejudge.
How to grow miniature roses indoors/5
Chrysanthemums Part I1/9
Humber Arboretum/14
Care andjoys ofa greenhouse/17
Now is the time/19 Parkwood/21
Publication Committee
James Floyd (Chairman), Jerry Maccabe, Mary Smith, William Stennson, Clive E. Goodwin
Editor: Fredrik Kirby
Advertising: Shirley Kirby (416) 226-0996
Graphics and Printing Drewmark Graphics, Toronto
General
Information
1ssn 03801470
Trellis is published in the months of January, March, May, July, September, and November and distributed on or about the 15th of the month previous by the Civic Garden Centre, 777 Lawrence Avenue East, Don Mills, Ontario M3C 1P2. Telephone: (416) 445-1552. The Centre is located in Edwards Gardens, at Leslie Street and Lawrence Avenue East, the geographical centre of Metropolitan Toronto. It is a non-profit gardening and floral arts information organization with open membership. Subscriptions to Trellis are only available through Centre membership (10 per year). Opinions expressed within do not necessarily reflect those of the Centre.
You can enjoy all these benefits when you subscribe to TRELLIS horticulture and gardening magazine.
1. You become a member ofThe Civic Garden Centre. You will receive special members rates on all courses. You receive TRELLIS by mail every two months. It contains timely articles by outstanding authors; how-to-stories and seasonal suggestions; news of events and courses held at The Civic Garden Centre.
4. You may register for craftcourses,seespecialshows, hearqualified speakers.
5. You can borrow free from over 3,000 gardening books. You SAVE 10% on purchases over $2.00 at the Garden and Book Shops.
TO LEARN MORE CALL 445-1552 AND EXPRESS YOUR AREA OF INTEREST
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How to grow Miniature Roses indoors
by Harmon Sauville and Dawn Wood
Roses are outdoor plants. They have been under cultivation longer than any flower and have always held a special fascination for the gardener. Roses grow in almost all latitudes under a wide variety of conditions and therefore are basically very easy to grow.
An exciting development has occured within the last few years! It is now possible to enjoy roses year round in northern latitudes. The fundamental advance has been the development of suitable miniature roses for indoor growing. While miniature roses are still primarily an outdoor plant, it is now possible to grow them indoors during the winter provided a reasonable attempt is made to duplicate outdoor conditions in the home. Originally and traditionally, roses have been very large thorny plants which made them a difficult greenhouse subject and a near impossibility to grow in the home.
With the advent of the development of miniature roses it becomes feasible to grow the Queen of Flowers indoors.
Of all of the outdoor conditions which must be brought inside, light is usually the limiting factor. Miniature roses can be grown in sunlight alone, in an unobstructed southern window, in a greenhouse or in a sun room.
Baby Katie
However, it must be kept in mind that in our northern latitudes, cloudy, stormy days are common in winter and the reduced light level does not permit roses to grow during these periods. Sunlight can be supplemented or replaced by fluorescent lights. When growing under fluorescent light alone, you will need at least four tubes side by side and as close together as possible (usually 2% to 3 inches). The tubes and plants should be arranged so that the tops of the plants are no more than 3 or 4 inches from the tubes. In fact, it is not undesirable to have the plants grow up between the tubes. When fluorescent lights are used to supplement sunlight, the distance between the tubes and the plants can be greater. Many combinations of fluorescent tubes work. The best we have found so far are Agro-lite, Vitalite; and alternating tubes of cool white and warm white (or Gro-lux, wide spectrum). It will help to
increase light utilization and humidity if the fluorescent garden is enclosed on three sides by a solid material such as masonite which is painted on the inside with a highly reflective white paint. The fluorescent lights should be kept on between 12 and 16 hours. The garden should be in darkness or very subdued light when the lights are off. The lights should come on at a set time and go off at a set time. A 24 hour timer should be used to control this day length. While the lights are on, it is daytime to the plants, regardless of what the clock says! In some areas there is a lower off peak electric rate, and it is economically desireable to have the day encompass those off peak hours.
The temperature during the plants daytime can range between 550 and 75° F. At the higher temperature, you will get more bloom and more rapid growth. The plants will need more frequent watering and fertilizing and a closer watch to prevent insects and disease. At the lower temperature, growth will be slower and flowering will be less profuse. The plants will need to be watered less frequently and diseases develop less rapidly. It is desirable for the temperature in the plant area to drop approximately 5 to 15° while the lights are off. Temperature that are comfortable for people are comfortable for miniature roses.
Proper watering needed
Correct watering is the most essential of the cultural requirements for miniature roses, and the one most easily controlled by the gardener. Most failures with growing miniature roses indoors are caused by improper watering, and the people who have a green thumb are really good waterers. The soil must be kept evenly moist and must not dry out even for a short time. Even ten minutes of dry soil will kill roots and
Fairy will result in leaf yellowing and leaf drop within 2 to 3 days after the drying accident occured. Frequency of watering depends on several factors including soil composition and the amount of humidity in the room, the temperature and the rapidity of growth. Expert gardeners water a plant thoroughly so that water drips out of the holes in the bottom of the pot and then pick up the pot to get the feel of the pot when it is fully watered. When the pot becomes noticeably lighter, they water again, thoroughly, whether it s a matter of one day or several days since the last watering. With properly draining soil, it s nearly impossible to overwater, but they should not be watered so frequently that the soil becomes waterlogged and, of course, the bottom of the pots must not sit in water for any extended period of time.
There has been considerable discussion in previous literature about the need for humidity and certainly, some provision must be made to add humidity in the extreme dry conditions of a winter heated home. On the other hand, they do not require, and in fact get into
Sweet
trouble, if you provide tropical humidity. As a general rule of thumb, relative himidities range between 20% and 60% ideally for roses and for people, and nothing has to be done if your humidity falls in this range. There are many ways to increase the humidity in the micro climate of a greenhouse or a light garden. You can grow miniature plants closer together and let their mutual transpiration do the job, or you can grow the plants above a bed of damp stones or perlite. In extreme cases with larger areas, a commercial humidifier or vaporizer can be used. It is probably a mistake to mist the foliage. The ideal condition is to have the soil moist and the foliage dry at all times. Misting the foliage can lead to fungus infections which are difficult to correct. Good ventilation is very desirable in order to facilitate keeping the foliage dry for as much of the time as possible. Having the top and front of the light garden open is usually all that is needed. If the leaves become wet while the plants are being watered, they should have enough ventilation so that they are dry within an hour or two.
Roses will grow in almost any type of soil in an indoor garden. A soilless mix eliminates many problems and gives you ideal drainage. A Cornell Mix of 1/3 sphagnum peat, 1/3 vermiculite and 1/3 perlite seems to work very well. You may wish to add one part of agglomerated clay pellets which are available in garden centers and grocery stores as Turface or untreated Kitty litter. The latter soil amendment adds weight to the soil which helps prevent the pots from tipping over and allows more latitude in the amount of fertilizer which the plants will tolerate. Whatever soil mix you decide on, the water should permeate the pot quickly and drain quickly. Water should not stand on the surface for more than a minute or
two before being absorbed by the soil.
It is necessary to refrain from overfertilizing even though roses are heavy feeders. Any reasonably balanced fertilizer that can be mixed with water to make a solution can be used. Commercial mixes such as Rapid-Gro and Peters are satisfactory. Many good growers believe that the fertilizingsolution should be made up weaker than the label recommends and then using this solution more frequently. Of course, you only fertilize when plants are growing well, and you hold off on the feed if the plants are stressed for any reason.
In the wild, roses go through a period of dormancy once a year. In northern areas of the world, roses sleep through the winter and wake up in the spring refreshed and anxious to grow and bloom. It is a good idea to allow your indoor grown minis to have a 6 to 12 week rest after a year to a year and a half in the house. This can be done very simply by putting the pots out of doors sometime in September and bringing them in sometime before Christmas. The soil should not be allowed to freeze hard, and the pots should be protected whenever the temperature is expected to drop below 25°F. While restricting water slightly, the soil must never get dry. You will find that the
MINIATURE ROSES
Grow indoors and outdoors. No garden or apartment too small to enjoy the pleasure of growing these little roses. Free colour catalogue of selected varieties.
SPRINGWOOD . MINIATURE ROSES /@F g
o), &
Box 255, Port Credit : P.O., Mississauga, B Ontario L5G 4L8 Phone (416) 270-6266
pots will need water fairly frequently early in the dormancy period and much less frequently when the plants are fully dormant. In order to be successful in achieving a proper dormancy, it is necessary to be hard hearted and cruel and leave the poor things out to suffer it s for their own good.
Although any miniature rose can be successfully grown indoors, the task is somewhat easier if you select varieties that are smaller, more compact and have thinner leaves. Some varieties which do especially well are:
Little Linda light yellow, very profuse bloom.
Cinderella one of the older varieties and still one of the best. Outdoors it s
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white but indoors it s frequently light dawn pink.
Red Imp dark red with profuse bloom indoors (does not do as well outside in full sunlight).
Littlest Angel deep yellow in tiny perfect proportion.
Baby Cheryl many tiny pink buds with delightful abundant foliage and especially compact plant.
Sweet Fairy lovely light lavender pink, very fragrant flowers.
Baby Katie a peach and cream, very vigorous grower.
Green Ice one of the easiest to grow. Flowers change from apricot to white to green.
Puppy Love classic form with a blend of orange pink and yellow which make ideal cut flowers. There are dozens of other suitable varieties which can be explored as your interest in miniature roses expands. Two excellent sources locally are:
Springwood Roses 2167 Gordon Drive Mississauga, Ont. L5B 1S6
Mini Rose Nursery PO Box 873
Guelph, Ontario, N1H 6M6 >k
Harmon Sauville is the owner and operator ofNor East Miniature Roses, Inc., in Rowley, Massachusetts, U.S.A. a large mail order firm specializing in retail and wholesale miniature roses. He is a hybridizer of many new varieties of miniature roses and an active rosarian. He is a director of the American Rose Society and an accredited rose judge. He credits his knowledge ofroses and the success of his business to a hobby gone wild .
Mini Rose Nursery
Specializing in Miniature Roses
For 1979 Listing write Florence Gahagan
P.O. Box 873, Guelph, Ontario N1H 6M6
Chrysanthemums
PART I
by John Dickson
In the July TRELLIS, chryanthemum authority John Dickson detailed techniques for raising superior mums. His recommendations for overwintering and care both for show specimens and general garden varieties continue.
To dig up the stools, take your garden fork and lift your plant, secure the name tag tightly. Using the secateurs, cut off all green growths. Take the hose and wash all the soil off over the first bucket. Dip the stool into the second bucket which has the insecticide mixture. The prepared stools are set on top of the 3-inch soil in grape box. Soil is added and watered in with a fine rose watering can, adding more soil until the roots are covered lightly. The box will hold 24 stools.
The glass window tops do not require to be put over the cold frames at this time (October), unless there are heavy showers forecast. If you decide to put on the covers, open daily to let the air circulate. In December, when it turns really cold and your stools are frozen, place straw loosely over the boxes, then cover with plastic. Put on the frame lights, place burlap and spars to keep it in place. The total darkness idea is to prevent your stools rotting by defrosting in the sun under glass and sitting in wet conditions. Soil can also be hilled up around the outside to prevent winter draughts. The wind can do a lot of damage by drying out the moisture. Plants can also be wintered in a cool greenhouse at 35°. Aroundthe first week in February, take your dormant stools from the cold frames to a greenhouse with low
heat of 50°, or a basement to grow under fluorescent lights. Low temperature is necessary. Allow to thaw in the coolest part of the greenhouse or basement floor. Thaw gradually. Check for moisture content of the soil when they are defrosted. Most times it will be fine and there will be no need to water at this point. Lightly spray the plants to induce cuttings to grow. Under fluorescent lights, keep the plants about 3 inches below the lights, with basement heat of 50° if possible. The lights are left on at least 14 hour a day to avoid premature budding. Materials for rooting consist of one fish box or seed tray, rooting mixture, coat hangers to cut into arches and plastic to cover, labels, marking pen, razor blades and hormone powder. When cuttings start to grow, water the soil lightly with a fine rose watering can. Ideal cuttings should be short jointed and turgid. 2 inches is the ideal size. When you are ready to take cuttings, give the stools a good soaking so the cutting is sappy, full of moisture. A growing cutting will always root best. Using razor blades or sharp knife, always dip in disinfectant, after every cutting. Practise good hygiene and your plants are off to a good start.
Trim the cutting below a leaf node joint, take off the lower leaves, making sure to pull gently downwards. This is to prevent skin damage to the tender stem. Sprinkle 1, inch coarse sand on top of the seed tray of rooting mixture. The idea of this layer of sand is when you make the hole to insert the cutting, the sand drops into the hole, insuring air
surrounding the base of the cutting and helping to form the callous. Place the cuttings in rows, clearly labelled. Shape the coat hangers into arches, water the cuttings in thoroughly and cover the whole box with plastic. No more water should be necessary until they are rooted, in about 10 to 14 days. If growing in the greenhouse, no plastic house is needed. Make sure to shade against rays of the sun. If only a few cuttings are required and you lack proper facilities, a 3-inch pot can be used. Insert the cuttings around the edge of the pot, place a polythene bag over, make a few tiny holes for air. Secure with an elastic band and place on a south window sill and shade from sun. Cuttings tend to flag for the first few days and then they complete their cycle of reproduction.
Potting on when they are rooted If using clay pots, remember to clean pots thoroughly and soak in a bucket of water before using. The dry clay pot will deplete moisture from the soil. Start potting as soon as the cuttings are well rooted. The rooting mixture has no nutrients, so if you leave them too long they will starve. In 3-inch pots, add the prepared potting compost. Hold the plant with one hand and build the compost around the roots with the other. Firm with your thumbs, then rap the pot on the bench. Put the label in, water thoroughly and place in semi shade away from the full rays of the sun. Refrain from further watering. This
encourages the roots to move and reach the bottom of the pot. If you continue to water each day, they become lazy and just sit and wait for you to water. A light spray on the foliage is always beneficial. In a week they will have settled and be ready to face full light and normal watering.
Soon they will be ready to go into the cold frames to be hardened off. Clean up the frames, disinfect, repair broken glass or any holes. The base of the frame now requires good drainage, rough sand or chicken grit. Leave the frame lights on for a few days to warm up the soil and the interior. Chrysanthemums like to be grown hardy, 40° to 50° and do not appreciate hot conditions.
The ideal plant is short and sturdy with ample foliage. This can only be obtained by growing under correct conditions. Too many plants crammed into the cold frame will result in tall, drawn out plants. The more light that falls on the foliage at this stage of growth, the better.
Plants should be placed in the frames with ample space between the pots. The hardening off procedures must be governed by prevailing weather conditions, and not by the calendar. It should be gradual and if, after the cycle is complete, the weather pattern changes to windy, wet and cold, have no hesitation about closing down the frame lights and starting all over again. Give the plants at least ten days of growing on, after potting from the rooting box, before you even consider the cold frame and hardening off.
Leave the frame lights on for the first few days of the hardening process. Make sure there is snow fencing or spars to give the plants partial shading from the sun s rays. On the fourth day, open the frame light about an inch to admit air, closing down at night. Each day open further, and so the process continues
until the lights will be left off all day and only the spars or snow fencing left to give them rotating shade. Gradually, as the chance of frost recedes, the lights are left off overnight. At all times keep a check on the weather. Old carpets are used on top if there is a frost warning. Put these on late at night and take off early in the morning, so the plants are not deprived oflight.
If there is heavy rain, put on the frames until it clears. At all times, keep your plants growing healthy and clean, free from aphids and other insects. Water the plants when they need it. Never water in late afternoon or evening, since the upsurge of water and the cool of the evening tends to split the stems of the young plants.
Remember, it is the foliage which manufactures the food needed by the plant to grow. The gardener, in giving the plants foliar feeding, and fertilizer, is only supplying raw material for the leaves to process into cellulose and protein.
If you decide on a complete bed of chrysanthemums, roto-till, add peat, rake over and have the soil in good tilth. Enrich the top few inches of soil with a balanced fertilizer, about 4 oz. per square yard is sufficient. If the soil is in poor condition, double the amount.
In the border, chrysanthemums, may be planted in triangular groups of three, eighteen inches between each plant. It is up to your own idea.
A few days before you decide the appropriate time has come to plant out, check the soil, make sure it is warm and ready to accept the plants. Give the plants a complete spray with insecticide, under the foliage and all over. The morning you are ready to plant, soak each pot thoroughly. When you tap the pot, your plant slips out readily. Slacken the roots, release them from the shaping of the
pot. Take your trowel, dig a hole for your plant to fit without cramping. Firm planting is important and care should be taken to ensure there is no air pocket under the root ball. A small saucer-like depression of about 2-inch depth should be left at surface level. This allows the young plant to receive extra moisture and is a help against strong winds. Water plants in thoroughly and leave for the first few days, in fact, overhead light misting is good at all times.
Cultivate the ground around the plants to keep the weeds in hand. It also allows the air to reach the roots, thus developing a good root system. The roots consist of water transport vessels, food conducting and resilience vessels.
From cutting stage to planting out, there should be no check in growth. Keep them growing slowly and steadily.
Staking and tying is important. The first tie is when planting. Leave a certain amount of movement between stake and plant to eliminate wind damage. It is necessary to train your plant to grow straight and tall. A plant with a curve or bend does not receive the free flow of enriching sap if it has to make a U bend.
Disbudding The removal of the growing tip is called pinching. This accelerates the growth of breaks. Allow 2 blooms on the large varieties and 3 on the mediums. Choose the strong breaks and gently remove all excess vegetation, over a span of a week. The excess sap has to be gradually eliminated. The same applies to removal of excess buds.
Footnote: We warmly invite all readers and friends to visit the Early Chrysanthemums Show at the Centre September 15th and 16th. *
John Dickson, Canadian Chrysanthemum andDabhlia Society, is a well-known amateur grower and top award winner in Chrysanthemum classifications.
WHAT S HAPPENING ATTHE CENTRE EVENTSINSEPTEMBERAND
OCTOBER
September 8 Junior Garden Clubs Show 1.00 p.m. to 5.00 p.m.
September 15-16
September 23
September 26
Canadian Chrysanthemum Society Early Show
Canadian Rose Society Fall Show 2:15 p.m.
Greenhouse Night. Everyone welcome! John Pierce with anillustrated talk How to get into Greenhouses . 8:00 p.m.
September 29-30 Foreign Bird Society Show
October 12-15 The Centre s own Floral Bouquet and House Plant Sale with materials donated and crafted by the Centre s own volunteers. A wonderful andeconomical waytodecorateyourhomeforthecold weather. Friday and Saturday, 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. 1:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. Sunday
October 24
Horticulture Night. A stimulating talk by Dr. Hilton of Guelph Arboretum on Native Trees and Shrubs with a place in our Gardens.
October 27-28 Canadian Chrysanthemum Society Late Show
Courses Starting See the July TRELLIS for full details on the following courses:
September 10 Beginners Needlepoint
September 11 Landscape Art
September 11 Decoupage Decorated Glassware
September 12 Basic Flower Arranging
September 12
September 13
Oriental Flower Arranging
Basic Flower Arranging
September 17 Botanical Art
September 17 Chinese Brush Painting
September 17 Decoupage Introductory
September 18 Quilting
September 21 Rug Hooking
September 21 Applique
October 4
Pot Pourri Registration for this was taken in the Spring.
October 11 Nori-Zome
October 15-22-29 Winter Bouquet Workshops
October 16
October 17
October 18
October 22
Basic Course Part 2 Flower Arranging
Intermediate 2 Japanese Flower Arranging
House Plant Course
Intermediate Needlepoint
November 7 Capsule Review
(The University of Guelph Agriculture Courses will not be held here this fall.)
FALL HIGHLIGHTS
This fall the Floral Bouquet Sale is being combined with a House Plant Sale, with plants donated by the Centre s own members and friends. Don t forget that we need plants bring them to the door of the Auditorium (old building any time between 10:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m. October 11.
We also need bake goods and volunteers to assist with our annual Christmas Greens and Sparkle Sale, November 23 25. More details in the next TRELLIS, but there will again be a bake sale and tearoom.
Many thanks to all those who generously donated plants and time for the Spring Plant Sale. It was again a success, and raised badly-needed funds for the Centre, thanks to the efforts of all of you who donated the plants and volunteered to work.
We re planning an all day Bird Tour to Niagara Falls, November 12, to see the fall concentrations of water birds there. If you are interested call the office. Cost will be in the $20.00 range.
Please note the change in date for the Intermediate Needlepoint classes they re starting October 22. Members and anyone wishing to visit the Centre in the evenings should remember the Library and shops are open to 9:00 p.m. every Wednesday night. It s a good chance to browse when the building is not crowded.
PRUNING SPECIALIST
All types of shrubs and trees properly pruned. Willing to barter services for used furniture, old tools, lumber, etc. Removals fully insured. Book now fortree work at winter rates.
Brian Sinclair 762-5828 anytime
ATTENTION PROGRAM CONVENERS ANYWHERE IN ONTARIO
Now book for one or all five new for 1980 illustrated talks on Perennials for Ontario Gardens. Available November THE through March. Write for details:
"@ountry Squireo Garden
Steeles Avenue West, R.R. #10
Brampton, Ontario L6V 3N2
EQUIPMENT CONSULTANTS & SALES
Everything for the year round gardener
Indoor gardens and accessories. Greenhouse accessories. Automatic propagators. Capillary matting. Humex and Stewart products. External roll shades for greenhouses and Florida rooms. 2241 Dunwin Dr., Mississauga, Ont. L5L 1A3 (416) 828-5925
WANT TO HELP WITH THERAPY?
Mrs. Sheila Palmer, our able organizer of the Garden Therapy Group, is looking for a helper. There s not a lot of time involved one Wednesday a month, from 1.00 to 3.30 p.m. but alot of satisfaction. For its arthritic members the group is the big event of each month, and there are many rewards in being able to help them. If you re interested call Mrs. Palmer at 423-4974 or let the Centre know.
HUTBER ARBORETUIT
by Art Coles
The Humber Arboretum is an ongoing educational, recreational and research community project. [t involves about 300 acres of Humber River Valley area to the west of Humber College and Highway 27, just south of Finch Avenue.
The Arboretum is managed by a committee of members representing the four participating agencies: Metro Toronto and Region Conservation Authority, Metropolitan Toronto Parks, The Borough of Etobicoke Parks and Humber College.
The Humber Arboretum is to be more than an educational collection of trees, it is to be a park for all people.
QOver the past year, the Arboretum took on a new appearance. The upper or tableland area, located immediately to the south of the College was under a vigorous maintenance and development program by the Borough of Etobicoke Parks Department. The change over
previous years was dramatic: new lawn areas have been established, all of the introduced trees have been neatly mulched and the rough peripheral areas have been cleared. This enlarged the existing tableland area and blended the maintained areas more suitably with the natural wooded areas.
The students in the Landscape Program have constructed a sign base of vertical timbers at the entrance to the Arboretum and have been active in reconstructing and renovating the existing parcours. Park benches which are currently being constructed by students will be placed in the Arboretum in the spring.
This summer, our plans include the construction of a network of pathways throughout the valley, so the entire area will be more accessible to the general public, and the development of our entryway.
Our future plans include extensive plant collections, an outdoor theatre and an orientation centre. The rate of development, however, is largely dependant on funding.
From an educational and research point of view, the Arboretum will provide a practical training area in such horticultural skills as; chemical and spray techniques, pruning principles and practices, plant identification, entomology, general cultural practices related to growing plant materials, landscape construction practices, plant material use in the landscape, plant material forms and habits of growth and related uses, biological insect control, effects of
Lilies add a smash of colour in season
plant materials on localized climates, hardiness of plant materials under different growing conditions, grafting and budding practices and some nursery training.
These areas of study will be of particular interest to the area community colleges with Landscape Technology or practical Horticultural Programs such as that at Humber College or Ryerson. Universities such as Toronto or York may wish to use these facilities for ongoing research projects in related areas.
Those whose interests are directed toward recreation or leisure activities will want to take advantage of our network of pedestrian or equestrian trails with well marked points of interest and labelled plant material or the parcour jogging and exercise course which is available for public use. Park benches will be placed at
strategic locations on the trail for extra relaxation and enjoyment of one s natural surroundings.
The trails will have nature interpretive programs for individual use or group participation. The program will provide signs and brochures to point out plant material of special interest, interesting comparative identification characteristics, descriptive detail of wildlife you would possibly see and where to look for it. Your attention will be drawn to unusual land forms and will give you some history of the formations.
Tours will be programmed in such a way that they can be either selfguided or taken with a provided guide at certain hours of the day.
The conservationist will be interested in our attempts to preserve the original wood lot conditions so as not to disturb the flora and fauna already present which include many species of birds,
Windingrwalkway through the Arboretums tranquil woodland.
ROUND
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Seed catcher attaches quickly and easily.
Saves expensive seed.
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Feeder and Seed available at Gift Shop, Civic Garden Centre.
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from herons to woodpeckers, numerous wild flowers and berries, assorted native trees and such animals as raccoons, ground hogs, muskrats and squirrels.
The untouched meandering stream of the Humber is certainly harmonious with its surroundings, which vary from gravel banks or low lying marsh to wooded slopes with water lapping at the tree roots. Here one is able to observe the silent activity of the squirrels, intent on storing food for a long winter, the muskrat in his sleek coat as he slips through the slow moving, but slightly rippled water, or a raccoon, carefully washing his food in preparation for his evening banquet may give you a cautious glance.
Areas of untouched meadow will remain from which may flutter a pheasant, not too pleased at having her nest disturbed or ajack rabbit may quietly hop across the path in front of you and stop to watch you pass.
Children will delight in the freedom they have to pursue their individual interest which may vary from making leaf collections to simply skipping stones on the river. On programmed children s tours, the children may be given certain information and then encouraged to identify in nature the item they have described before them.
It is our hope that the community as a whole will make use of this living library of existing native and introduced plant material when planning their own gardens and landscapes; that the Arboretum will provide a park-like setting for those wishing to enjoy it and that it will be an educational tool to be used by area elementary and high schools, colleges and universities. >k
Art Coles is Director of the Humber Arboretum.
¢Gare and joys of a Greenhouse
with Gwen Fawthrop
September is the beginning of the year for the greenhouse enthusiasts. Before you pot up houseplants to put into your greenhouse, there are two considerations. First, have a greenhouse to put themin. If you already have a greenhouse, do your fall clean-up now.
Greenhouses come in all shapes and sizes from a windowsill greenhouse to a cold frame to full size greenhouses. However, when the structure is walk-in size, it s a greenhouse.
If you re about to put one on your property or patio, the time is now.
Be sure you consider your own convenience. In winter you ll want it near the house or better still, an extension of the house. Consider available light, air flow, available power and water sources.
The lean-to model is close to home and avoids the cold trip in winter to a free standing greenhouse some distance away.
Protect your greenhouse from cold air flow that tends to be stopped or dammed near the structure.
Ifit s lean-to, face it south. Back it into the house. If free-standing, be sure it gets lots of light. A greenhouse facing south with roof at a 45 angle will get the maximum light all year around.
Dig at least a foot into the soil around the edges of the structure and insert styrofoam or other insulating material to help keep the floor warm.
Of course, every plant doesn t want full sun, especially in summer.
Bamboo roll blinds can solve this problem.
The cost of heating in winter can be reduced by running plastic inside to give a double glazing effect. Best sheeting is the plastic covered with small bubbles used as a packing material.
You can get some added protection by putting white styrofoam on your north wall. No light comes from the north anyway but the white
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styrofoam will reflect back the light from the angled roof and southern walls.
There are many heaters designed for greenhouses. Ifyou decide on electric heat, better have a stand-by heater in case the hydro goes off some cold night.
The walk-in greenhouse
Many small greenhouses are available that you can assemble yourself with minimum tools and skill. Or you can buy them with assembly done for you.
However, let s say you re going to use the greenhouse you now have.
This is a good time to head off insects and disease. In the greenhouse, cleanliness is next to godliness. So begin with a thorough cleansing.
While it s still warm, remove
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everything from the inside benches, plants, pots, tools everything.
Connect a hose to the hot water faucet and wash everything remaining. Follow the first rough going over with a good scrubbing inside the greenhouse using detergent or strong soap. Scrub walks, shades, anything that couldn t be moved outside.
Get the corners. Watch for fungus and mildew. Scrub them off. Hose down the finished job with a couple of clear water rinses.
Check the floor and clean it too. On solid material, use a patio broom and the detergent or soap you applied to the rest of the interior.
Now outside. Scrub everything. If benches or shelves come apart, dismantle and clean. Check top sides, undersides, screws, grooves. Any space that can harbour fungus or moss.
If you have wooden benches showing signs of age and areas of infection, better replace these with metal ones.
Check panels on the outside when you re washing them. (Soap and water usually takes off whitewash.) Check for damaged areas, need for recaulking, and replace damaged panels.
Maybe you should take down the shades. Wash and dry. You won't need them till next spring. Winter light is hardly ever enough light.
Back inside, check the heater and humidifier. Don t wait for a cold night to find they re not working.
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For specifics on treatment for all problems that may arise, better get Green House Grow How by John H. Pierce. (See book review in this issue.) It covers every aspect of greenhouse gardening through planting and feeding to diagnosis and treatment of fading favourites.
Use your greenhouse to get a head start on summer, to develop special holiday bloom, to grow fresh salad greens and tomatoes.
Get the definitive book at the Civic Garden Centre Book Shop. X
Guwen Fawthrop is past-president of the Hobby Greenhouse Group and a wellknown garden writer.
Book Reviews
GREENHOUSE GARDENING
Pierce, John H. Greenhouse grow how. 1977.
The definitive guide for getting the most out of your greenhouse, with methods of plant care. Contains listings of information sources and supplies.
Neal, Charles D. Build your own greenhouse. 1975.
Explains how to build, equip and maintain all kinds of greenhouses, and includes models and working diagrams.
Pamela MacKenzie Librarian
Now isthetime
by Ernie Pope
September 1 October 31
The time to plant Dutch bulbs is at hand. Narcissus crocus, hyacinth and most other small hardy bulbs should be planted while the soil is still warm (60°F, 15°C), usually September 15th to October 10th, the last half of September being preferable.
Unfortunately most sources do not receive their bulbs shipments until mid-September, so it usually means having to buy and take delivery just as soon as they are available.
If you plant them after October 10th you may be lucky if the season remains quite mild, but otherwise you may find the following spring that many of them have not rooted at all. The ground was too cold, and they have frozen during the winter.
Tulips on the other hand should be planted between October 15th and November 15th, because they root readily in cool soil, and are less likely to acquire a disease known as Botrytis. Many horticultural books
still erroneously state, that this later date is because the bulbs will start to grow above the ground if started earlier, and will be damaged by frost.
Why would newly planted tulips grow any faster, than ones planted the previous year and still in the ground? F. F. Rockwell, the famous American horticulturist, says It seems to be another of those taken for granted statements, handed down without being challenged from one generation of gardeners to another . Good results have even been obtained with a December planting, but should be mulched if late planting is unavoidable.
Bulb pests Squirrels are the worst pest. They are especially fond of crocus and tulips. When planting crocus in areas where these rodents are a problem, it is better to plant them 4 deep rather than the 2 to 3 inches recommended in catalogues. Also immediately after planting the soil should be firmed down with a
board and the area given a good soaking with a hose. Squirrels prefer digging in dry soil. Mothballs or Camphor flakes spread on the surface are also helpful. If tulips are planted at least 6 inches deep they are seldom disturbed.
Bulbs for forcing The two essentials for successful forcing are a cool dark area (not over 45°F, 8° C) and patience. The rooting period is at least 12 weeks. If you can t provide these, you will only be wasting your time and money. The flowers have already formed in the bulbs when you buy them. The rooting period is to provide sufficient roots to feed the growing plant and cause the flower stems to mature.
The most satisfying blooming time is during the coldest part of the winter. This means starting the bulbs by October 1st to have bloom by February 1st (12 weeks rooting one month for flowers to develop).
Leaf mold in plastic bags
Several years ago Lois Wilson (Author of Chatelaine s Gardening Book) mentioned a method of making leaf-mold in plastic bags. The green bag is filled with leaves (preferably Maple) that are then thoroughly moistened. A spadeful of good soil is added together with a handful of garden fertilizer. The bag is then sealed and placed in an inconspicuous spot, such as behind a shrub, and in two years time you will end up with a third of a bag of excellent leafmold. The reason the leaves should be wet is because dry leaves remain in limbo, and do not deteriorate. The writer has used this method successfully for the past six years. It is especially useful for small gardens with limited space.
Lawn care September is usually the best month of the year to plant grass seed, because the soil is still warm for good germination. The
nights are cool, and there is usually ample rainfall plus heavy dews to keep the seed continually moist a basic requirement. Bare or thin spots can be reseeded but the seed should be covered with either a light coating of damp peatmoss or sifted compost, which should never be allowed to dry out during the germination period. Just broadcasting seed without covering it to thicken up the lawn is a waste of good seed, but a good meal for the birds.
Fall planting of perennials
Bareroot rose bushes can be purchased from growers during the month of October, and if planted and well protected during the winter, will do even better than spring planted ones. The reason for this is that before the freeze up the bushes are able to grow roots and become well established. If planted in the spring they have to grow roots, branches and leaves and prepare for the June blooming period at the same time. This is asking a lot, but is common practice.
Many perennials can be divided or purchased in the fall (Iris and Oriental Poppies August 1 15th). Shrubs that bloom early in the spring, such as forsythia, flowering almond, and lilac will give some bloom from a fall planting whereas planting in the spring usually precludes blooming until the following year. *
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PARKWOOD
THE ESTATE OF THE LATE COL. & MRS.R. S. MCLAUGHLIN
by Martha-AnneRankine
One of Canada s most beautiful estates, now open to the public, is Parkwood, the home of the late Col. and Mrs. R. S. McLaughlin, and situated in Oshawa, Ontario. Col. McLaughlin, founder of General Motors of Canada, Ltd., is well recognized as a truly great Canadian and his gardens and fifty-five room mansion give visitors a rare insight into a bygone era of gracious living on a scale that very few have ever experienced.
The property was purchased in the early 1900 s. Darling & Pearson, the firm which designed the Parliament Buildings in Ottawa, was commissioned to design a forty room mansion. Parkwood was built in the period between 1915 and 1917 and in the 1930 s major additions and alterations were made. The result b i &
Four Doric columns at front entrance of Parkwood, stately home of the late Colonel R.S. McLaughlin and Mrs. McLaughlin. In front of the 55-room mansion is an antique 1931 McLaughlin Buick touring automobile.
was a magnificent residence of imposing size and appearance. The home is still complete, with the art treasures and fine furnishings that the McLaughlin family enjoyed for many years.
Colonel R.S. McLaughlin died on January 6, 1972, in his 101st year. Parkwood was bequeathed to the Oshawa General Hospital which established The Parkwood Foundation to operate and maintain the estate for the benefit of the public.
Seldom can be seen grounds so breathtakingly beautiful as Parkwood s twelve acres.
Statuary of European and Canadian origin is placed strategically throughout the grounds to complement the beautiful vistas created by a planned landscape of mature trees, manicured shrubbery and ornamental pools creating a kaleidoscope of colourful nature paintings.
The Sunken Garden, virtually a surprise garden as one comes upon it suddenly and dramatically, is tucked away behind thick Cedars and little clumps of Junipers. It is very cool, remote and serene. You can understand why this was one of Mrs. McLaughlin s favourite areas as you gaze upon the central Carrara marble figure of a woman in flowing draperies, and enjoy bountiful flower beds packed with Begonias, Little Star Ageratum and foliage plants. The retaining walls are of rough-hewn stone and to complete the seclusion there is a fine Japanese Yew hedge topping the wall. At one end there is a small tea-house, open on three sides, furnished with comfortable summer
Goldfish dart among waterlilies in the still pool fifty feet long, sheltered by cedar hedge, trellis fences and ornamental junipers. furniture. On each side of the teahouse are small circular pools centred with pedestal sculptures.
From the Sunken Garden a visitor strolls across the majestic south lawn, past the terrace where a stone balustrade makes a formal division between the terrace and lawn. A walk of carefully fitted stone leads past a luxuriously planned border. Mature trees of every description can be seen swaying in the breeze.
On the north side of the house, there is another garden area which cannot be neglected. Set calmly between two wings lies the Italian Gardens. Here goldfish play among the waterlilies and water plants. One of the loveliest ornaments here is the Statue ofthe Three Graces in Carrara marble. Flagged walks follow the outline of the pool, and between them and the Ivy-draped walls of the house are closely planted beds of flowers and foliage. At the far end of the Italian Garden, past marble benches placed in little niches, is high white lattice which is covered
throughout the season with a profusion of flowering vines and climbing roses. This almost hides from view a very important adjunct to Parkwood the greenhouse complex.
Parkwood has about 10,000 square feet of greenhouses and three areas are open to the public throughout the year. During Parkwood s famous Fall Flower Show featuring Chrysanthemums, held annually in November the complete greenhouse complex is open for tours. When summer has passed and taken with her the brilliant pageantry of the outdoor garden the greenhouses at Parkwood take on a lavish bloom and riotous colour.
The New Formal Garden is famous for its unique 225 foot pool with several illuminated fountains and imposing fountain wall. This area was designed by John Lyle of Darling & Pearson during the 1930 s as part of Colonel McLaughlin s program to create employment during the Depression Years. Tranquil
walkways around traditionally designed flower beds enhance the total area. At one end is a delightful Tea House, constructed of Indiana limestone, placed close to the water s edge resulting in some interesting reflections which add to the charm of the total scheme. During the summer season the Tea House is a popular rendezvous where visitors may have luncheon or afternoon tea.
A visit to Parkwood is not complete without having seen the orchards, the rose garden, the iris garden, and the lovely white garden which is a
memorial garden Col. McLaughlin ad had planned in memory of his wife Adelaide because of her special love of white blooms.
Full appreciation of Parkwood can be realized only through a personal visit. This promises to be a truly enlightening and memorable experience. For information write to The Manager, 270 Simcoe Street North, Oshawa, Ontario, L1G 4T5 or telephone 416-579-1311. *
Martha-Anne Rankine is the Parkwood Manager.
Unique feature is the 225 foot pool with five fountains, illuminated below water level to provide fascinating accents.
Hydroponics %
Soilless Gardening
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o vegetables uncontaminated with pesticides
e efficient use of space and nutrients
The Home Hydroculture Association has been formed to bring together those interested in soilless culture. All members receive a monthly newsletter packed with valuable information for both the novice and experienced gardener. Including,
® how to build and maintain a unit
e how to get the most from a unit
e exchange of information
e personal information and advice
