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IVTH SCHOOL FOR JUDGES AND EXHIBITORS
Because of a large number of out-oftown students, the Preliminary Test will not take place. Instead, students will be registered upon receipt of their credits by the Area Representatives and Course [ will take place on May 13th, 14th, 15th, 1980 at R.B.G. Burlington.
Walter Coles
Caterers to Toronto since 1847
Delicious food delivered or picked up at our store.
EVERYTHING for weddings, luncheons, cocktail parties. Gourmet dinners for two. Phone 483-3501 for brochure. 366 Eglinton Ave. W., Toronto
EQUIPMENT CONSULTANTS & SALES
Everything for the year round gardener
Indoor gardens and accessories. Greenhouse accessories. Automatic propagators. Capillary matting. Humex and Stewart products. External roll shades for greenhouses and Florida rooms.
So % Botanical art: = %, originals o 3 * & prints gardening books 101 Scollard Street, Toronto (416) 960-1775
Yorkville
January, 1980
Volume 7, Number 1
In this issue
Cover picture: Snowdrops, botanically Galanthus nivalis, photographed by Barbara Wilkins
But will it grow in the shade? /5
Pecans Part 1I/9
Civic Garden Centre Programme/11
Now is the time/16
Perennial corner/22
Publication Committee
James Floyd (Chairman), Jerry Maccabe, Mary Smith, William Stennson, Clive E. Goodwin
Editor: Fredrik Kirby
Advertising: Shirley Kirby (416) 226-0996
Graphics and Printing Drewmark Graphics, Toronto
General Information issn 03801470
Trellis is published in the months of January, March, May, July, September, and November and distributed on or about the 15th of the month previous by the Civic Garden Centre, 777 Lawrence Avenue East, Don Mills, Ontario M3C 1P2. Telephone: (416) 445-1552. The Centre is located in Edwards Gardens, at Leslie Street and Lawrence Avenue East, the geographical centre of Metropolitan Toronto. It is a non-profit gardening and floral arts information organization with open membership. Subscriptions to Trellis are only available through Centre membership (10 per year). Opinions expressed within do not necessarily reflect those of the Centre.
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by Barbara Wilkins
Very often, it seems, the answer to this question is No, this attractive plant will not do well in the shade. If you put it there it may survive, but it will become lanky and the flowers, if they appear at all, will be few andfar between .
Most of the annuals that add such colour to our summer gardens are sun-lovers which do poorly in shady locations. Impatience (Impatiens) is a notable exception; the floriferous new varieties that have been developed in recent years are indispensable, blooming well even in fairly deep shade. Lobelias and Nicotiana too will perform reasonably well in the shade. Most others, however, grow far better in sunshine. There are, of course, various degrees of shade. Very few plants of
any kind will succeed in the dense shade that occurs under Norway Maples, where roots lie close to the surface and little rain penetrates the heavy canopy. Removing the lowest branches and thinning the trees so that some sunlight and moisture get through will permit the growing of at least those dependable groundcovers, Pachysandra and Vinca. If, under these improved conditions, moisture is sufficient and a rich, loamy soil can also be provided, Tuberous and Wax Begonias as well as Impatience will add their colour. Much more is possible in moderate shade such as that cast by high trees, or in partial shade, where the sun falls for a few hours each day. Many of our border perennials will adapt to these conditions, and although the flowers
Sanguinaria canadensis, commonly known as Bloodroot.
may be fewer and smaller, they will last longer than they would in full sunlight. Summer Phlox (Phlox paniculata) will grow well, as will Phlox suffruticosa Miss Lingard , an earlier blooming white. Columbines (Aquilegia hybrids), many bellflowers (Campanula), Loosestrife (Lythrum) and Aconite (Aconitum) can fill the shaded portions of the border. Daylilies (Hemerocallis) are essential; the many varieties available now, in pinks and reds as well as in various shades of yellow, extend their blooming season over several months. Plantain Lilies (Hosta) too are excellent, their bold foliage effects adding a formality to a city garden, and the many variegated forms lighting up dark corners. Royal Standard , and Honey Bells , both readily available hybrids, are notable for the lovely fragrance of their white flowers.
But instead of thinking of a shady part of the garden as a problem area where sun-loving flowers can only with difficulty be persuaded to grow, why not consider the opportunity it provides to grow the many beautiful
plants that actuallyprefer shaded conditions? Such a garden has its period of peak bloom in the spring rather than during the summer months, but on the other hand, it can be attractive and restful-looking all year long. Coniferous and broadleaved evergreens can be used to establish a design that will be as satisfying in the cold of midwinter as it is in the heat of summer.
Shade-loving plants are plants of the woodlands, and woodland soils are full of humus. An important first step in creating a shade garden is amending the soil so that it is loose and well-drained, by adding large amounts of peat moss and leaf mold. This should be done to the entire area to be planted; although the digging may seem arduous, the results are worth the effort, and it is far better to prepare the beds properly than to have to re-dig them a year or so after they have been planted! If the existing soil is heavy clay or is poorly drained, sand should be added as well and the beds should be raised; this can be done easily by edging them with railway ties or some similar material.
Scarlet Sensation and Pink Sensation dynamic begonias. Brilliant show in sun or shade. Ball Seeds photo.
Broad-leaved and coniferous evergreens will flourish in this organic soil. Of the conifers, Yews (Taxus) are best for shade and city conditions and can be had in both upright and spreading forms. T. cuspidata Aurea is a lovely compact golden variety. Broad-leaved evergreens are very much at home here, their fine roots spreading out easily in the loose soil, made sufficiently acidic by the peat moss and other decayed vegetation which has been worked in. These outstanding shrubs have been little used in southern Ontario in the past, but are now becoming more easily available as their hardiness is recognized. A few rules regarding their culture must be observed; loose, well-drained organic soil, moisture, some noon-day shade, protection from high winds, and a surface mulch of pine needles or some other material to keep the roots cool. Their attractiveness in the landscape derives not only from the evergreen nature of their leaves and the beauty of their flowers, but from the variety of leaf forms they exhibit. Among rhododendrons, the large-leaved Catawbiense hydrids can be set off by the small oval leaves of P.J.M. , R. carolinianum, or Pioneer . In Windbeam the leaves are smaller still, and Ramapo s are no more than an inch long. R. Smirnowii s leaves are narrow, olive green and beautifully felted underneath. All of these varieties are hardy to -20 or -250F. and their flowering period extends from late April for Pioneer to mid-June for the last of the Catawbiense hybrids. If rhododendrons are still only occasionally seen in our gardens, three aristocrats of the shade are almost unheard of. Mountain Laurel (Kalmia latifolia) follows the rhododendrons in bloom, its lovely clusters of pink cups appearing in mid-June above attractive leaves.
Andromeda (Pieris) is beautiful all year long, with its dark green foliage and clusters of buds which open in spring into bell-like white flowers; the new growth is like a second flowering, a coppery-red in colour. Leucothoe grows only about three feet high, its arching branches of shiny green leaves hung with white flowers in May. All of these enjoy the same conditions as rhododendrons. Add to them evergreen Barberries (Berberis), Boxwood (Buxus), Euonymus in its many forms, Mahonia and Pachistima, and the shaded garden is interesting indeed.
How about deciduous shrubs for the shade? Witch-hazels can begin and end the season. Chinese Witchhazel (Hamamelis mollis) blooms with the first thaws in spring, with scented yellow or reddish twisted petals on bare branches, and Common Witch-hazel flowers as the leaves fall in October. Azaleas have brilliant blooms of all shades in May. The red stems of Siberian Dogwood (Cornus alba) contrast with the bright green ofKerriajaponica in the winter landscape, and Snowberry (Symphoricarpos) is decked with white or pink berries.
With early spring come the hardy bulbs. Snowdrops are up as soon as the snow melts, gaining in charm each year as the clumps increase. Chionodoxa Glory-of-the-Snow soon follows with masses ofbright blue or white stars. Scilla siberica seeds itself into carpets of blue; Scilla Tubergiana is a more delicate shade, and Scilla Spring Beauty , tall and rich in colour. Daffodils look their best in the dappled light and many varieties naturalize readily; King Alfred is still one ofthe best. English and Spanish bluebells (Scilla nutans and campanulata) bloom with the last of the daffodils, their tall blue spikes illustrative of their alternate name, Wood Hyacinth .
All these bulbs require spring sunshine to bloom and ripen their foliage, and thus grow well under deciduous trees and shrubs.
While the bulbs are flowering the shade-loving perennials are beginning their show. Bloodroot (Sanguinaria), Trilliums, Violets and Mertensia bloom early, before leaves appear on the trees. Phlox divaricata, Wild Blue Phlox, forms clouds of lilac blue, and Jacob s Ladder (Polemonium reptans) scents the air. Some more uncommon plants, such as Crested Iris (Iris cristata), Wood Anemone (Anemone nemorosa) and Twinleaf (Jeffersonia dubia) add interest and beauty. Ferns are unfolding and groundcovers are in flower
Foamflower (Tiarella cordifolia) with 7z 4
SOILSBVER COMPOSTER
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Unique thermal construction and complete ventilation system ensure complete rapid decomposition. Two easy access doors to remove compost. Designed to be seen forconvenientbackdoorcomposting. Available at The Civic Garden Centre, and garden centres.
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fluffy white spikes, Ginger s tubby brown flowers beneath round shiny leaves (Asarum) and Wintergreen s white bells (Gaultheria). Primulas are at their peak; the round lavender heads of Primula denticulata give way to the many colours ofP. polyanthus, followed by the tiered candelabras of P. japonica. Barrenwort (Epimedium), one ofthe best perennials of all for shade, waves airy flowers over finely-cut heart-shaped leaves.
As summer advances the profusion of bloom diminishes and taller plants take the place of the delicate spring flowers. Daylilies, Beebalm (Monarda), Snakeroot (Cimifuga), Columbines, Plantain Lilies, Loosestrife and Astilbe give colour in the summer months, and Japanese Anemones and Asters mark the beginning of fall. In a favoured place Cyclamen neapolitanum begins to bloom; its prettily marbled leaves will appear a few weeks later, to last until spring. Last of all the white buds of Christmas Roses (Helleborus niger) rise from among deeply divided leaves, opening in thaws through the winter and providing flowers from the garden on Christmas Day.
Most of these plants for shaded gardens and many more can be
obtained from nurseries and dealers in the Toronto region, such as: The Country Squires Garden, Brampton
C.A Cruickshank Ltd., Toronto
Sheridan Nurseries, Etobicoke
Woodland Nurseries, Mississauga. Two very helpful books are available at the Civic Garden Centre:
Brooklyn Botanic Garden s Gardening in the Shade, a Handbook, and H.K. Morse s Gardening in the Shade. Both may be borrowed from the Library, and are also available in the Bookstore. >
Barbara Wilkins is an Executive Member of theRhododendron Society ofCanada and a member of the Garden Club of Toronto.
PECANS whicll)w erlcl)w ih the north art
by Douglas Campbell andJohnGordon, Jr.
GERMINATION PROCEDURES
Pecans are relatively easy to germinate and grow and good results may be achieved with the following procedures.
GENERAL
The seed nuts may be planted outdoors in either fall or spring. There is some advantage in planting the seeds in a protected or nursery type of environment for the first 2 3 growing seasons. (The seeds also can be planted in the ultimate locations where the trees are to be grown if appropriate care and protection is made available.) A rich, well-drained soil high in well-rotted organic matter (such as sphagnum moss but not manure) will give the best initial results. The equivalent of rose garden soil with moderate levels of nitrogen is ideal. The soil should be worked well and all weed roots etc. removed before nut seeds are sown.
FALL PLANTING
OUTDOORS (NURSERY)
(a) Nuts can be sownin the fall up to the time that frost prevents digging the soil.
(b)
Plant the nuts about 2 3inches deep, preferably in straight rows with nutsabout 12inchesapartin the row.
If the soil is good and the area is protected, probably a mulch is not needed. A mulch such as evergreen boughsmaybeusedin more severe areas. Make sure the mulch does not attract rodents.
If rodents are a problem, cover the planting area with wire netting or place a poison bait over the row of nuts. Rodent baits are sold by Agway or CoOp stores.
Mark the row clearly.
(f) Remove mulch andotherrodent barriers in early spring.
Seedlings will emerge in late May/early June of the spring following planting.
SPRING PLANTING
OUTDOORS (NURSERY)
(@) Soak the dry nuts in pure, wellaerated water (chlorine free) for 7 days . . . changewaterdailywith fresh water at the same temperature (65 - 70°F).
Plant in the nursery immediately after the soaking treatment and as early in the spring as ground can be worked. Plant the nuts about 2 3 inches deep, preferably in straight rows with nuts about 12 inches apart in the row.
(c¢) Mark the row clearly.
(d) Seedling will emerge in late June or early Juy of the same season.
FIRST SEASON CARE
(a) If the nursery gets excessively dry (more than 15 days without rain) in the spring/summer period, apply irrigation water. (Don t waterlog the soil.)
[f weeds appear in the marked nursery area in early spring/ summer, remove weeds by pulling only.
Ifsoilisrich,fertilizingisprobably not necessary in the first year. Seedlings will grow approximately 6 8 inches high by the end of the first growing season.
Ifsummerrodentsareaproblem, trees can be protected by taking a 48 oz. juice can; cut out both ends; slip over the emerging seedling and press can into the soil about two inches. Squirrels will dig out and ruin an emerging seedlinginordertoconsumethat portion ofthe kernelwhichisstill in the nut.
If winter rodents (mice, rabbits) are a problem, protect the seedlings with an application of rodent repellantpaint (latexthiram) during the first and subsequent winters. Otherwise seedlings do not require any special winter protection. The seed nuts may be germinated and grown indoors or outdoors in pots although more skill and care is required than for the methods given.
CARE IN LATER YEARS
(a) (b) Treeswill growto 12 18inches by the end ofthe secondyear; 24 -36inchesby the endofthethird year.
Transplant to final locations as either 2 or 3 year old seedlings.
Dormant spring transplanting (March/April) is best for most areas.
Pecans are tap-rooted and roots are equal to or deeper than top height. Get all the roots when transplanting. Transplanting holes should be relatively deep but not too wide. Pack the soil downfirmly and carefully along the deep tap root.
Trees may be fertilized in the second year and thereafter.
Applyfertilizeronthesoilsurface (late April/early May) in bands around the trees never closer than 8 inches from the trunks of younger trees and correspondinglyfurtherforolder trees. 5-10-15 istheidealfertilizer for pecans.
(e)
Pecansin the northwill obtain an ultimate height of 80 100 feet and awidth of40 50feet. They make excellent shade trees. First bearing of nuts may be anticipated at 10-15 years from planting. A ten year old tree will be about 20 feet high.
Pecans prefer an open, sunny location. Since pecans leaf out relatively late in the spring, they can be planted to advantage on south-facing slopes and on the south side of buildings.
Protected, south-facing exposures are the best prospects in the far north for pecans to produce well-filled nuts.
Apply rodent protection (latex/ thiram paint) to protect against mice and rabbit damage eachfall (October/November) until the trees reach 6 8 inches in diameter. If this white paint is applied up to a height of 3 4 feet, it will also give some protection against winter sunscald (south-west injury).
continued on p. 15
This is your programme
THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE
EDWARDS GARDENS
777 Lawrence Ave. East, Don Mills, M3C 1P2
PROGRAMME SCHEDULE JANUARY JUNE 1980
PROGRAMME SUBJECT TO CHANGE
January 4th
January 7th
January 9th
January 14th
January 14th
January 17th
February 16th
February 18th
March 1st
March 5th
March 5th
March 7th
March 11th
March 12th
March 15th
March 19th
March 20th
March 20th
March 26th
April 2nd
April 9th
April 11th
April 12th
April 13th
April 14th
April 15th
April 16th
April 16th
April 26-27th
April 28th
May 5th
May 7th
May 8th
May 9th
May 10-11th
May 13th
May 14th for the next 6 months
Rug Hooking Course starts.
Beginners Needlepoint Course starts
Japanese Flower Arranging Course (Beginners) starts
Chinese Brush Paintings Course starts
Botanical Art Course starts
Perennials Course starts
Rhododendron Society Meeting. 2.00 p.m.
Intermediate Needlepoint Course starts
Garden Layout Clinic 10.00 a.m. 4.00 p.m.
Japanese Flower Arranging Course (Intermediate) starts
Centre Rhododendron Night 8.00 p.m.
Rug Hooking Il Course starts
Decoupage Il Course starts
Educational Seminar . 4:00 p.m.
Home Gardening Course starts
Educational Seminar IIL. 4.00 p.m.
Pot Pourri Workshop
Centre s White Elephant Sale 10.00 a.m. 9.00 p.m.
Educational Seminar 11 4.00 p.m.
Educational Seminar IV. 4.00 p.m.
Centre Apartment Gardening Night. 8.00 p.m.
Canadian Rose Scciety Spring MeetingSouthern Ontario Nut Growers Meeting
Toronto Gesneriad Society Show
Advanced Needlepoint Course starts
Spring Bird Walks start. 8.00 a.m.
Flower Arranging Course starts
Horticultural Night and
Centre Annual Meeting 7.30p.m.
Alpha Omega Art Show
Floral Craft Lectures begin
Rhododendron Society Auction
Photography Course starts
Canadian Chrysanthemum Society Plant Sale
Civic Garden Centre Plant Sale 10.00 a.m.-4.00 p.m.
Southern Ontario Orchid Society Show
Flower Arranging Basic Il Courses start
Flower Arranging Basic | Courses start
May 24-25th
Late May/
early June
May 26th
June 2nd
June 14-15th
June 27-28th
Toronto African Violet Society Show
Watch for the Spring Garden Tours.
Bargello Workshop
Pulled Thread Workshop
Toronto Bonsai Society Show
Canadian Rose Society Show
WORKSHOPS AND COURSES
Registration is required for allclasses andworkshops. Please use the form provided on p.21 and mail proper remittance. We regret no confirmation of registration can be sent.
January 4th and RUG HOOKING two 8week courses on Fridays at 10.00
March 7th
January 7th
a.m. Instructor: Mrs. Clarke Sherbo. One of the Centre s most popular courses covers basic rug hooking, and for advanced students, instruction in Crewel as applied to rug hooking will be given. Fee: $32.00 members, $36.00 nonmembers.
BEGINNERS NEEDLEPOINT 5 week course on Mondays at 1.00 and8.00p.m. Instructors: Mrs.J.E. Hartley and Mrs. Judy Crothers. In this course a sampler will be worked, and students will be taught a wide range of techniques. Fee: $20.00 members, $25.00 non-members.
January 14th
January 14th
CHINESE BRUSH PAINTING 10 week course on Mondays. 1.30 p.m. 3.30 p.m. Instructors: Mrs. Moira MudieandPattiSnell.Thiscoursewilldiscussthephilosophy of Chinese Art, have guest artists demonstrating various techniques, practise some calligraphy, and generally introduce the students to the delight and intricacies of this delicate form. There will be classes for both the absolute beginner andthe more experiencedartist. Thecourseisalso valuable for those wishing to improve their water-colour brush techniques. Fee: $50.00 members, $55.00 nonmembers.
BOTANICAL ART 6 week course on Mondays at 10.00 a.m. 3.00 p.m. Instuctor: Mr. Homer Moechert. These classes will be handled flexibly, to allow students to pursue their own interests andwork intheirdesiredmedium. There willbebeginninginstructioninoils, aswellastheusualmedia pencil, charcoal, ink and water-colours. Fee: $45.00 member, $50.00 non-members.
January 17th
PERENNIALS FOR
ONTARIO GARDENS
6 week course on Thursdays at 8.00 p.m. Instructor: Mr. Keith Squires. All aspects of perennials will be discussed, and a wide range of hardy perennials reviewed, including many that are of excellent qualities but little used. Fee: $35.00 members, $40.00 non-members.
February 18th
March 11th
March 15th
INTERMEDIATE NEEDLEPOINT 5 week course on Mondays at 1.00 p.m. Instructor: Mrs. J.E. Hartley. This course is for those who have completed the Beginners course. Fee: $20.00 members, $25.00 non-members.
DECOUPAGE 8 week course on Tuesdays 1.30 3.30 p.m. Instructor: Mrs. C. Vitali. Decoupage is the art of intricate paper cutting, using these cut-outs to create beautiful objects. This course will cover glass work, repoussé, gesso and dimensional floral pictures. Fee: $32.00 members, $36.00 non-members.
HOMEGARDENING FORBEGINNERS 6weekcourse on Saturday mornings from 10.00 a.m. 12 noon. Instructor: Mr. HalPrice.Thiscourseisdesignedspecifically for the beginning gardener. Growing conditions will be covered, as well as Vegetables, Annuals, Perennials, Roses and propagation methods. Fee: $14.00
March 20th
POT POURRI AND HERBAL BATHS 1 day workshop with two more intheFall. Instructor: Mrs. JuneErwood. Pot Pourrisarenature sowninsectrepellantsandairfresheners, andherbalbathsbeautifyandcleansetheskinwhilerelieving sore muscles! The first workshop covers whatto plant and how to crop, the second blending and the third packaging. Fee: $32.00 members, $38.00 non-members.
April 14th
April 28th
May 12th
May 7th
May 26th
June 2nd
ADVANCED NEEDLEPOINT 4week course on Mondays at 1:30p.m. Fee $20.00 members, $25.00 nonmembers.
FLORALCRAFTLECTURES Mondaysat 1.30p.m.and 7.30 p.m. Instructor: Mrs. EileenBrooks. These lectureswill demonstrate the use of plant materials in preparing bouquets, and in related crafts.
April28th PRESERVATIONOFFLOWERS,LEAVES
May 5th PRESSED FLOWERS AND CORN HUSKS CRAFTS
May 12th PINE CONE CRAFTS
Fee: $3.00 a session or $8.50 for three members, $3.50 a session or $9.50 for three non-members.
PHOTOGRAPHY 6week courseonWednesdaysat8.00
p.m. Instructors: Mr. and Mrs. Powell. The Joys of Photographing our Natural World is the Powell s title for the popular course. Equipment, lighting and exposure, colour perception, design andmiscellaneoustechniquesareamong subjects covered. Fee: $30.00 members, $35.00 nonmembers.
3 week course on Wednesday, 10.00 a.m. 3.00 p.m. Mrs. Kadoguchi, renowned Sensei of the Ikenobo School, will again give this very popular course. Branches and flowers will be provided for approximately $2.50 a day. Fee: $20.00 members.
March 5 JAPANESE FLOWER ARRANGING INTERMEDIATE
3 week course on Wednesday 10.00 a.m. 3.00 p.m. This will be an opportunity for those who have taken the beginners course with Mrs. Kadoguchi to test their acquired skills and ingenuity. Do try to book early as we can only take a limited number of applications. Fee: $20.00 members.
April 16
BASIC FLOWER ARRANGING 6 week course on Wednesdays, 1.30 p.m. and 8.00 p.m. This course offers the beginner principals and elements of good design in flower arranging. Fee: $20.00 members.
May 13 FLOWER ARRANGING BASIC COURSEPART 2
May 14
6 week course on Tuesdays, 1.30 p.m. and 8.00 p.m.
BASIC FLOWER ARRANGING 6 week course on Wednesdays, 1.30 p.m. and 8.00 p.m. Fee: $20.00 members.
GROUP AND SPECIALTY GROUP MEETINGS
* Canadian Chrysanthemums &DahliaSociety: Starts8.00p.m.onJanuary
* 24th, February 28th, March 27th, April 24th, May 22nd, June 26th.
Hobby Greenhouse: Starts 8.00 p.m. on: January 30th, February 27th, March 26th, April 30th, May 28th, June 18th.
IndoorLightGardeningSociety:Starts8.00p.m. on: January9th,February 13th, March 12th, April 9th, May 14th, June 11th.
Men s Garden Club: Starts8.00p.m. on:January8th,February5th,March 4th, April 1st, May 6th, June 3rd.
Southern Ontario Orchid Society: 1.00 5.00 p.m. on: January 6th, February 3rd, March 2nd, April 6th, May 4th, June 1st.
TorontoBonsaiSociety: Starts8.00p.m. on: January 14th, February 11th, March 10th, April 14th, May 12th, June 9th.
Toronto Gesneriad Society: 2.00 4.00 p.m. on January 13th, February 10th, March 9th, May 4th, June 8th.
Junior Garden Clubs
*
* Enthusiasts: Starts9.45 a.m. on: January 19th,February 16th,March 15th, April 19th, May 17th, June 14th. : Green Thumbs: Starts 9.45 a.m. on: January 12th, February 9th, March 8th, April 12th, May 3rd, June 7th.
Non-membersarewelcomedatthemeetingsofalltheaboveGroups.Also meetingat the CentrearetheMilne HouseGarden Club, theGardenClub of Toronto and the Garden Therapy Group.
CENTRE NEWS AND NEEDS
As usual, the Floral Crafts Workshop will be closed during January and not fully staffed during February. If you have special requests in this period, please phone them in, or check when the Workshop will be open.
A new event in the Centre s spring programme will be the White Elephant Sale on March 20. Ifit s successful we ll make it a regular event, but we do need your help. Ornaments, books and other household objects that are surplus to your needs are all candidates for the Sale. Now s the time to look hard at those items that have been in the back room for the last few years! Maybe they ll be just the thing someone else would love, and maybe you' ll find something you like at the Sale as well.
Space will be set aside for the receipt ofyour donated goods from March 11 on, so please plan to bring them over in this period.
Ifyou re interested in working with teen-agers then the Enthusiasts Garden Club will interest you. Ms. Jane Wilson noted as the Group s leader in our last issue has recently had to resign. Our gratitude to her for ajob well done. The Enthusiasts meet on one Saturday morning each month, and they re really enthusiastic, so if helping them appeals to you, please call the office.
We re planning a number of exciting exhibits in the Centre throughout the winter and spring. Link exhibits will be continuing, and there ll be periodic exhibits elsewhere in the building as well.
Pecans continued fromp. 10
(h) Pecans require relatively little pruning. Some pruning may be done to balance the shape ofthe trees, to repair accidental damage or to counterbalance loss of roots during transplanting. Generallypruning will tend to delay the bearing of nuts andalsodecreasethewinter hardiness of the trees.
(i) Pecans have relatively few disease or insect pests in the North. Occasionally aphids will be a problem but these can be discouraged with applications of malathion.
*** Pecans require cross-pollination to produce nuts. Plant trees in groups of 3 or more and spaced less than 100 feet apart.
Individual trees have the best form but pecans can be planted3 to a clump (36 inch spacing) for cross-pollination on smalllots.. . . or persuade the neighbors to plant pecans!
*** Pecans accept a wide range of soils. A well-rotted organic mulch improves tree growth. Caution: Excessive nitrogen promotes too much vegetative growth and may lead to winter injury . . . use manure sparingly.
*++ Please record your results for future NNGA questionnaires. . . germination, winter hardiness, transplanting success, tree size, address(es) of final location(s), age at first bearing, production and quality of nuts and other outstanding tree characteristics.
Pecan seeds available: Supply of Northern Pecan seeds is sufficient that it is expected all orders can be filled until April 1st, 1980.
Packets of 8 Northern Pecan seeds to members of the NNGA are $2.00 post paid. Non-members may obtain 8 seed packets for $3.00 post paid.
Address orders to: Northern Nut Growers Association Inc., Attn: Mr. R.D. Campbell, R.R. 1, Niagara-OnThe-Lake, Ontario L0S 1J0. X
Now isthetime
by Ernie Pope
JANUARY 1st to FEBRUARY 29th
Gardeners who grow their own annuals from seed should be making plans now for the coming season. Here are suggested planting dates for some of the better known annuals.
January
Dwarf fibrous rooted Begonias (15th)
Tuberous Begonias (1st)
Geraniums (1st)
Hibiscus (1st)
Pansies (1st)
February
Tall Fibrous Rooted Begonias (10th)
Browallia (15th)
Carnation (20th)
Dianthus (20th)
Verbena (15th)
The best germinating temperature for most annual seeds is 70° to 75°F 200 to 23°C. The seedlings should be transplanted approximately three weeks after germination or when a second pair of leaves has formed, whichever takes place first.
All the above dates are based on growing under fluorescent lights or on a bright window sill, after transplanting, at daytime temperatures of 66°F 18°C and 60°F 15°C at night. If your room is 50 warmer or cooler, then the seeding date should be advanced or delayed by one week. Pansies are the
WHO ELSE can hand you a line like this?
Chiffon Magic, a new light pink grandiflora petunia; excellent weather tolerance. PanAmerican Seed Co. one exception to these temperatures.
They are cool weather plants which grow best after transplanting, at day temperatures of 60°F 15°C and 500F 10°C at night.
SOIL MIXTURES FOR GROWING ANNUALS
Seeding soil mix
1/3 soil
1/3 peatmoss (sifted)
1/3 vermiculite (small)
Rock garden plants and alpines from the mountains of the world.
Vigorous herbaceous perennials, ground covers, dwarf shrubs, herbs.
Almost 200 sedums, 100 sempervivum, 20 different species and varieties of dianthus, geranium, thyme, veronica, primula, lychnis and campanula along with such rare novelties as carduncellus, rhaponticoides, dracocephalum, ruyschianum and erodium chrysanthum are included in a fine collection of over 1,000 perennials for Ontario gardens.
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Soilless seeding mixture
1/3 peat moss
1/3 vermiculite (small)
1/3 perlite
Transplanting mix
1/3 soil
1/3 peatmoss
1/3 perlite
Soil used in the above mixes could be any good potting soil, such as Hillview Potting and Planter soil. If you don t want to make up your own seeding mixes, Jiffy mix and Peatlite mix are two good soilless mixes for seeding, as well as Hillview Mother Earth, a soil-based seeding mix.
Starting light-responsive seeds. Generally speaking the smaller the seed the closer to the surface of the medium for successful germination. In fact many small seeds need to be placed on the surface and merely pressed against the mixture, and placed directly under fluorescent lights or on window sills.
There are two important steps in planting small seeds. The first is to avoid planting them too thickly, and the second to water them without washing out or disturbing the seeds.
The former can be helped considerably by mixing the fine seed with an equal amount of fine sand before sowing, and the latter by placing the receptacle in a shallow container of luke warm water, allowing sulfficient time for the moisture to rise to the surface of the medium (usually about one hour). Moistening the soil prior to sowing is not recommended, because when pressing the seed into the mixture, both the seed and the soil will adhere to the compressor. After sowing, the receptacle is covered with a plastic bag or pane of glass.
This procedure should assure ample moisture, even under bottom heat, for at least three weeks, or until all the seeds that are going to
TREAT A BIRDTO LUNCH!
Squirrel Proof SUET BIRD FEEDER
A fabulousfeederto attract birds: chickadees, nuthatches, etc. Made of frost free vinyl coated steel wire, easily attached to a tree or hung from a branch.
K. 15
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Metal(:'shields & a around openings to frustrate squirrels.
Hood openings give weather protection.
Uses anyseed or seed mixture.
Metal perches with soft vinyl covers.
Easy to take apart for cleaning.
Lock top can't blow off.
Seed catcher attaches quickly and easily.
Saves expensive seed. Keeps yard neat.
Feeder and Seed available at Gift Shop, Civic Garden Centre.
Usually small seeds produce smaller plants than large seeds. Foxgloves are a noteworthy exception, as their dust-like seeds often produce plants five feet high. Here is a list of some of the most popular small-seeded annuals that should be surface sown and treated as above.
Ageratum, Alyssum, Begonia (tuberous), Begonia (fibrous), Browallia, Coleus, Impatiens, Petunias, Salvia and Snapdragon.
Climbing Hydrangea (H. petiolaris)
This outstanding, handsome, climber is too seldom seen, in spite of its many attributes. It is self-adhering to almost any surface. It will grow both in full shade and full sunlight, on the east, west, south or north sides of a house, wall or other support. It has attractive glossy foliage and striking lacelike flat white flower clusters, produced in abundance in June. It is hardy in zones 5t0 9, is insect and disease free, and will grow in almost any soil, whether fertilized or not. What more can one ask of a vine? It has only one major fault in that it takes five years of very slow growth after planting before it really takes off, and becomes rampant and free flowering. But it is fully worth the wait and is very long lived. It would make a nice change from the all too common Boston Ivy. (Climbing Hydrangeais available at Sheridan Nurseries.)
An excellent Perennial Doronicum (Leopards-Bane)
Here again, in view of the ease of growth, complete hardiness, and freedom from disease, and insect pests, it is surprising how infrequently this colourful perennial is found growing in the average garden. One of its chief assets is that it is one of the earliest of all hardy perennials to bloom usually April 20th to May 15th. It blooms at the
same time as the new hybrid Darwin tulips, and is ideal for planting near or between the tulip clumps along with porcelain-blue flowered Mertensia (available at Sheridan Nurseries and C.A. Cruickshanks Ltd.).
The flowers are bright yellow and daisy like, and are excellent for cutting. The plants can be planted either in the very early spring or October. Rather than planting single plants, as with many perennials it is much more effective to plant groups of at least three plants, 10 inchesapart.
Best of all the plants can be readily grown from seed (available from Stokes Seeds Ltd.) and if planted about June 1st should provide plants that will give some bloom the following spring, and a substantial number each year thereafter. After blooming the stems should be cut back to avoid seeds forming, and the low set leaves will remain attractive during the summer.
No winter protection is needed and no staking is required, a real plus in the writer s opinion for any perennial. It will grow in full sun or partial shade, and its approximate blooming height is 22 inches. It would seem that a perennial with so many plus qualities should be in every garden. (Plants are obtainable from Sheridan Nurseries and White Rose Nursery.)
Our Advertisers
Without the revenue from our advertisers, it would be difficult for the Centre, as a non-profit organization, to produce TRELLIS. It is therefore very important for each of us as members to patronize them and let them know why we are doing so. >
Ernie Pope is a member of the Civic Garden Centre s Advisory Committee and a member ofNorth Toronto Horticultural Society. He is a regular contributor to the TRELLIS.
S
Remember the White Elephant Sale March 20. OHH
Capture the Sun!
It s Flower Show time again, and this year the Garden Club of Toronto s exciting show its 25th will have Capture the Sun as its theme. The Automotive Building at the C.N.E., will be glowing with colour from February 27th to March 2nd a wonderful boost to spirits flagging in the dreary late winter.
The Show s theme is highlighted by a Solar Greenhouse, particularly
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Award-winning flower arrangers from 15 countries will participate in the International Flower Arranging competition, sponsored by Canadian Club. The arrangements will yield a contrasting blend of styles, containers and plants, each distinctive of their land of origin.
Many familiar features will be back, with the banks of tulips from the Netherlands Bulb Institute, daffodils, crocus and roses, and a host of other flowers. There ll be the bandstand and benches in the park, ideal for a picnic lunch. Educational highlights will include lectures and demonstrations, secondary school gardens and other children s projects. This year the Civic Garden Centre will be providing the how to gardening information at its exhibit on the second floor.
Proceeds from the event are
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THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE
777 Lawrence Ave. East, Don Mills, M3C 1P2
NAME (PRINT) MEMBERSHIP & PHONE NO.
ADDRESS CIFY CODE
PLEASE REGISTER ME FOR THE FOLLOWING EVENTS CLASS OR WORKSHOP TIME EEE
O I would like to take advantage of reduced rates offered members and enclose $10.00 for my annual fee (add $2.50 for each additional family member) Total enclosed
/ FROM OUR EXPERIENCE, THE VARIETY . AND QUALITY OF ALLTHE PLANTS AR - EXCELLENT ... THE SERVICE IS VERY GOOD 'l"!'{E EMPLOYEES ARE VERY HELPFUL! Mr. & Mrs. Lang
We hear this comment so many times...and always from new 1 customers to Clargreen who live out ofour area. Yes! We're unique because we cater to people who enjoy unusual plants...bamboos, femns, herbs, spices, exotics like orchids and exquisites like the Japanese bonsai. You can grow them all in your home or officeand = we'll showyou how. Come and see us today at Clargreen or visit our display and sales booth at the Spring Flower and Garden Show, February 27 to March 2 at Exhibition Place.
Ferennial Corner
as told by Keith Squires
There are an astonishing number of plants in the Daisy family with showy blooms in yellow and orange shades, and many of them from excellent perennials for the garden. This is even true of some things which we are inclined to rate with Dandelions as weeds. Devil s PaintBrush and Yellow Devil are popular names for two Hieracium species which blanket fields in the cottage country with masses of yellow and orange. There they are terrible weeds which will destroy crops in the fields. Nevertheless, ] have had plants ofthe orange species, Hieracium aurantiacum, growing in my garden for the past eight years and I have never had any trouble with it. It s all a matter of soil, and in clay soil this is an excellent plant which will not take over in the least, but gives a vivid splash of orange in the border.
Another plant of the same genus which is quite different is H. bombycinum which is a good ground cover in sunny areas. It has yellow flowers which open and close with the sun, and when you have large clouds constantly crossing the sun this plant will open and close ten times a day. It will not tolerate shade.
Heleniums also have a rather rude name as wild flowers, as they are called Sneeze-weeds one of the many unfortunate plants which have been blamed for the sins of ragweed. They bloom in the late summer and fall, and there are now many good named cultivars on the market. Most of them will grow to a height of 2 to 3 feet, although they sometimes are a little taller. Copper Fountain is a bronze and Riverton Gem a yellow. Helenium hoopesii is an old timer with orange blossoms that flower in
July. The others flower in late August and early September, with the Asters.
Helianthus is the familiar Sunflower and all the species in the genus grow to several feet in height, although there s a lot of individual variation. An excellent double which will maintain its bloom for a long period is H. decapetalus Loddon Gold . This is a good flower for cutting.
Another group with a host of new hybrids is Heliopsis. The new ones bloom well through July and are very showy. Goldgreen Heart has an attractive green centre and grows to about 3 high. A taller variety which blooms somewhat later and needs more space isH.scaber SummerSun .
Heliopsis is one of the few perennials which is attractive to aphids, and they usually appearjust about the time it comes into bloom, butare reasonably easy to control.
Another excellent yellow Daisy is Inula Golden Beauty , which is about a foot in height. It will bloom in the latter part of June, and is an excellent plant for the front of the border, where it gives a good splash of colour.
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Specializing in Miniature Roses
For 1980 Listing write Florence Gahagan
P.O. Box 873, Guelph, Ontario N1H 6M6
White Rose
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Open 7 days a week
A Way to Gauge Footcandles
dimension of the paper. The lens
Though the best way to measure opening (f-stop) should be adjusted the amount of light falling on plants is until the meter indicates a correct with a meter that reads directly in exposure. footcandles, a camera equipped with If the lens opening is: a built-in light meter can provide f/2 illumination is about 40 footcandles reasonably accurate measurements f/2.8 about 75 footcandles in a pinch. The film speed dial should f/4 about 150 candles be set at ASA 25, and the shutter f/5.6 about 300 footcandles speed should be adjusted to 1/60 of a f/8 about 600 footcandles second. Opaque white paper should f/11 about 1,200 footcandles then be placed next to the leaves, and f/16 about 2,400 footcandles >k the_camera should be pointed at it at _ from The Rhode IslandNurserymen s a distance no greater than the narrow Newsletter, No. 63, Fall, 1979
Plants for an Eastern Exposure, which receive direct morning sun from sunrise to near midday, upper left: a. Dizygotheca elegantissima (False Aralia); b. Nephrolepis exaltata bosteniensis (Boston Fern); c. Ficus benjamina (Weeping Fig); d. Dracaena reflexa; e. Begonia rex cultivar (Rex Begonia); f. Dryopteris (Fern); g. Cordyline terminalis (Hawaiian Ti), h. Tolmeia menziesii (Piggyback); i. Saintpaulia lonantha (African Violet); |. Polyscias (Ming Aralia); k. Aeschynanthus radicans (Lipstick Vine); I. Sinningia speciosa (Gloxinia); and m. Tradescantia (Wandering Jew).
Plants for a Northern Exposure, which receive the least light, top left: a. Spathiphyllum Clevelandii (Spathe Flower); b. Cissus rhombifolia (Grape lvy); c. Adiantum (Maidenhair Fern); d. Aglaonema (Chinese Evergreen); e. Philodendron panduiforme (Fiddle-leaf Philodendron); f. Dracaena massangeana (Corn Plant); g. Chamaedorea elegans (Dwarf Parlor Palm); h. Scindapsus aureus (Pothos); i. Dieffenbachia amoena (Dumb Cane); and j. Ficus pumila (Creeping Fig).
Pictures courtesy of Chevron Chemical (Canada) Ltd.
