Whiteflies, a major insect pest of greenhousers and home gardeners, can be controlled with sticky yellow boards, according to USDA. Not a fly, but related to aphids, mealy bugs and scale insects, tiny Trialeuroides vaporatiorum is most difficult to control, attacking most greenhouse crops. Entomologists placed 1-foot square boards painted yellow (RustOleum 659 Yellow, etc.) and covered with a sticky substance (Tack Trap best, but heavy motor oil (SAE 90) is also effective,) between tomato plants infested with whiteflies. Each day the boards trapped 25% of adults until infestation was controlled. 12 boards, placed evenly among infested chrysanthemum plants, eliminated adults in 48 hours. Restlessly flying from leaf to leaf, they are distracted by yellow and stick on the board surface. Shaking infested plants causes adults to dart to boards Like iron filings to a magnet . *
city gardens
Tropical Plants Sales and Maintenance
lan A. McCallum, B.Sc.(Agriculture)
446-1040 9:00 - 5:00 Monday to Friday
ROUND
Metal shields around openings to frustrate squirrels. d
Hood openings give weather protection
Uses any seed or seed mixture
Metal perches with soft vinyl covers
Easy to take apart for cleaning
Lock top can't blow off
Seed catcher attaches quickly and easily
Saves expensive se Keeps yard neat
Feeder and Sc-w available at ShO Civic Garden Centre
CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE BOOKSHOP
See our Excellent Selection
Horticultural Books for all interests & ages. Nature and Craft Books Gift Book Suggestions
We will order any book. Phone and mail orders filled promptly. Hours. Mon. Fri. 9.30 4.00 Sat. 10.00 4.00 Sun. & Holidays 1.00 4.00
777 LAWRENCE AVE. E. DON MILLS M3C 1P2 Phone 445-1552.
September 1980
Volume 7, Number 5
In this issue
Cover photograph: Mountain Ash fruit in late fall.
Photo by C.E.Goodwin.
Bonsai at Floralies/5
Renovating the old garden with a new philosophy/7
Now is the time/9
Centre events in September and October/11
Bulbs in the rock garden/13
Why grass?/17
Herbs/21
Publication Committee
James Floyd (Chairman), Jerry Maccabe, Mary Smith, William Stensson, Clive E. Goodwin
Editor: Fredrik Kirby
Advertising: Shirley Kirby (416) 226-0996
Graphics and Printing Drewmark Graphics, Toronto
General Information issnosso1470
Trellis is published in the months of January, March, May, July, September, and November and distributed on or about the 15th of the month previous by the Civic Garden Centre, 777 Lawrence Avenue East, Don Mills, Ontario M3C 1P2. Telephone: (416) 445-1552. The Centre is located in Edwards Gardens, at Leslie Street and Lawrence Avenue East, the geographical centre of Metropolitan Toronto. It is a non-profit gardening and floral arts information organization with open membership. Subscriptions to Trellis are only available through Centre membership (10 per year). Opinions expressed within do not necessarily reflect those of the Centre.
You can enjoy all these benefits when you subscribe to TRELLIS horticulture and gardening magazine.
You become a member ofThe Civic Garden Centre. You will receive special members rates on all courses. You receive TRELLIS by mail every two months. It contains timely articles by outstanding authors; how-to-stories and seasonal suggestions; news of events and courses held at The Civic Garden Centre.
4. You may register for craftcourses,see specialshows, hearqualified speakers.
5. You can borrow free from over4,000 gardening books.
6. You SAVE 10%onpurchases over $2.00 at the Garden and Book Shops.
[ wish to subscribe to TRELLIS and become a member of THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE. Enclosed is my cheque for $ made out to THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE, 777 Lawrence Avenue East, Don Mills, Ontario M3C 1P2.
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Bonsaiat Floralies
by Edith Kenzie
The beautiful display of bonsai at the magnificent Floralies event in Montreal this summer consisted of collections from both Japan and China. On this continent we are well aware of the elegant styling of Japanese bonsai, and this particular collection is an excellent example of Japanese artistry. There were about twelve trees in the Japanese group, ranging from medium size, say 12 , to quite large ones, about 3 .
The most outstanding bonsai was an old, superbly-trained cork-bark pine with a massive trunk. Another notable one was a lovely Trident Maple of harmonious form and exceptionally strong, well-articulated surface roots. We understand these roots had been grafted into place over along period a very delicate technique. A number of bonsai azaleas in full bloom added rich color to the scene.
The Chinese collection numbered in the neighborhood of twenty or more, and seemed to be of two classes. Some were fairly large, and handsome, and were trained more in the styles we are accustomed to. Included were several rock plantings done with tall, picturesque rocks among which were placed carefully chosen and trained small trees to suggest a mountain scene. As this type of mountainous terrain is frequently seen in parts of China, these plantings were of particular interest to viewers. One unusual example of bonsai treatment was a cascade tree in a shallow ceramic tray designed to hang on a wall.
In contrast to the above, many of the bonsai were quite small, under 10 , and were being trained in a style
puzzling to our western eyes. There seemed no attempt to achieve the effect oftranquillity and grace we associate with the bonsai art form. On the contrary, they appeared quite rugged. It could be that these were intended as examples of the early stages in the development of bonsai. Some were not even in bonsai pots. As we were not able to find out just where the Chinese bonsai had originated, we are left without answers to many questions we would have liked to have had answered. We are hoping to discover more about them eventually. In any case, the Chinese trees were different and interesting.
The setting of the bonsai exhibit was in one sense very beautiful, with
Japanese Collection Trident Maple
a background of a grassy slope and shrubbery beyond. On the other hand, the general greenness made it difficult to see details clearly, particularly as the plants were, quite properly, set at a safe distance from curious fingers! The background also frustrated photographers!
The latest information we have is that after the month of May the bonsai are to be withdrawn for a time, but returned to their places later in the summer, so some of our readers may have been able to see them.
We understand that the bonsai collection is a gift to the City of Montreal, and will become a permanent part of the beautiful and extensive conservatory collection at the Jardin Botanique de Montréal. Lucky Montrealers! %
Mrs. Edith Kenzie is Secretary ofthe Bonsai Society and a keen rock gardener.
Book Review
GEORGE WHITEHEAD s book
Growing for Showing is a small 170 pages, but packed with first hand knowledge of a Judge and frequent winner in the highly competitive world of the English Flower and Vegetable shows. He is an eager exhibitor, devoting long hours of meticulous care and often ingenious methods of growing and staging to reach perfection at the show table. This is for the advanced gardener, to improve technique in showing to best advantage, with many tricks of the trade which make even the common varieties prize winners.
Varieties named are often unfamiliar in Canada but seeds could be obtained from English seed houses. However that does not mean that they are the best for our climate.
Seasonal advice applies to England and standards quoted are the Royal
Horticultural Society. There is a wealth of good advice for anyone who is serious about exhibiting in Flower and Vegetable shows or even just growing better plants.
In Canada Oxford University Press $13.95. Gladys Rossiter
Walter Coles
Caterers to Toronto since 1847
Delicious food delivered or picked up at our store.
EVERYTHING for weddings, luncheons, cocktail parties. Gourmet dinners for two. Phone 483-3501 for brochure. 366 Eglinton Ave. W., Toronto
Chinese Collection Pinus Thunbergia Photographs by L. Mayeda
RenovatingtheOldGardenwith a
J\TGWTh osophy
Renovation in the eighties is not based in the removal of the old, so much as it is in the careful addition of the new. I believe that garden philosophy is at the edge of a tidal wave of change a change in the very image of garden forms. It is a change not really identified by the experts, not often or seldom spoken about by the homeowners, but will be as basic as the change created for buildings by the modern movement of twentieth century architecture. There will be no explosions. There will be no marching. There is no enemy, but there is a growing list of grievances and demands for benefits.
Traditional gardens have carried extra costs and brought pressures into the family circle. Garden maintenance services always seemed too costly and seldom seemed sufficiently knowledgeable. Homeowners, particularly their children, have been resisting regular time-consuming garden chores. Landscapes have gone too far as status chattel to be carted in by men and equipment...redecoration at a whim. Extensive gardens are full of flying insects or laden with killing chemicals. The list goes on to interfering with extended visits to the cottage, inconvenient breakdowns in the irrigation system and so on.
The homeonwer today is starting to react. No more major disruptions, thank you. Create harmony of thoughtfuljuxtapositions of old and new. Take away as little as possible. Recycle what you can. Restraint. Restraint is the buzzword of landscape design.
There is a new level of tolerance. Homeowners are learning to like elements which are compromising
byJimFloyd
rather than clean , distorted rather than straightforward , vestigial as well as innovating, and inconsistent rather than obvious.
The essence ofgarden design has transcended to accept meditative qualities. As more people see the world as a spaceship speeding towards an overpopulated, workscheduled, play-scheduled energy conscious future, the garden becomes a needed haven.Cities are being designed to consume all the excess work and play energy. The garden may be retrofitted as a sanctuary. No longer the agricultural provider, the garden is for releasing, forgetting, unscheduling.
Horizontal lines of prairie flat grass to sit on. Smooth water to watch. A solitary specimen old Robur to grow. A garden that makes few demands can be an island of uninhibited thought. Such a simple design need not be thought of as otherwise useless. A designer is not worth his salt who cannot imagine a multitude of activities occurring in the space.
July afternoon weather permitting an annual family gathering to picnic with the relations.
Saturday in August a once-in-alifetime wedding garden party for your offspring.
Midnight in January flooding the
flat grass to produce the kinetic energy of an ice rink.
Early April morning using the same garden hose to prepare a tableau ofdew-wormsforhungry robins.
Sunny June day when tree is young following the tiny sundial-like shadow with an infant in a portable playpen.
Sunny June day a dozen years later _ adolescent sunworshipping playgirl/boy following the shaft of sunlight left by the maturing tree. Less maintenance, less cost, fewer chemicals, more crickets and more birds.
Having established a new mode of gardening, how is it applicable to the problem of renovating an old garden? Patience and virtue shall carry us through. First consider maintenance. There is a saying New gardens like old furnaces cost a lot to maintain . The logic is simple. After several costly repairs and untimely breakdowns the old furnace is thrown out and a new one brought in. The new furnace is usually smaller, more efficient and generally cheaper and easy to maintain. New gardens, however, are vulnerable, shallowrooted and need constant care like an old furnace. If you feel like leaving your garden untended for a few weeks this summer, you are better off to leave the established deep rooted plants. If it costs more to grow new ones why not keep the old shrubs.
Restraint in this manner may give new appreciation for the distorted lilac beside the old garage. This may be a new venture into the inconsistencies and messy vitalities of trying to learn the secrets of pruning an overgrown forsythia. It may be the restoration of a conventional solarpowered and windpowered clothes line by replacing a hook. It has been too simple in the past few decades to clear out an old garden and replace
it with tiny nursery plants, which demand years of nurturing.
Taking stock over a year or two can be a self-fulfilling activity. A colleague, John Stewart, from the historic section of Parks Canada, Ottawa gives lectures about an oblique photograph technique, used in documentation before restoration. By focusing a camera from a second storey window, using the long light rays of a dawn or dusk, he is able to reveal the vestiges of original garden layouts. Often, as in the case ofthe greensward on Parliament Hill, he discovers the lawn to be covering formally planned flower beds and radial pathways and suchlike. Maybe your grass has hidden stories within it.
Take the time to begin a major old wood pruning operation on your garden. First this may rejuvenate most plants. But, more than that, after cutting limbs from shade trees you reestablish some of the original patterns of sunlight into the garden. Spend your time identifying unknown plants. Try to surmise the logic of the original garden builder. During an extended pruning-out period decisions about new plants can be made, weighed and rejected or retained. The result may be a very satisfactory easy-to-care-for garden.
To many garden owners today gardening isjust plain grass cutting. A lawn to sit on; a four inch deep, hosefilled antique marble pool; and a tree to note the seasons may be all they ever needed or wanted.
But, who am I to tell you that restraint is the buzzword, for as Scott Young so aptly put it in a 1958 address to the Empire Club, As every suburban gardener among you knows, no grass roots grow in ivory towers. *
Jim Floyd is a Toronto Landscape Architect
Now isthetime
byErnestPope
September 1 October 31st
HOUSE PLANTS
Those house plants that have been outdoors for the summer should all be brought inside by September 15th, or as soon as the average night temperatures fall below 15°C - 60°F., whichever comes first.
FROST PROTECTION
With proper precautions many annuals can be kept bloomingafter the first frost. There are often two or three weeks of relatively mild weather after it has happened. One of the best ways of protection is to sprinkle all your annuals with a fine spray from the hose just before sundown. Frost occurs and does most damage when the air is clear, cold and dry. The hose water may feel cold but it is nearly always warmer than the frosty air.
The writer finds this method to be more effective and less work than trying to cover plants with newspaper or other similar materials which usually blow off or become detached unless carefully fastened.
Don t water perennials, particularly roses, as doing so at night will encourage mildew and they are seldom harmed by early frosts.
GERANIUM CUTTINGS FROM THE GARDEN
They should be taken before September 15th, and after they are rooted, should be transplanted into four inch pots.
If you want them to bloom during the winter months, then you do not prune the main stem but if you want them for outdoor purposes next spring you should nip out the top of the cutting forcing the plant to
develop side shoots. These in turn should be pinched back as soon as they are as high as the main stem, removing any flower buds.
By so doing it is possible to create a plant for the garden with at least three or four stems, which will produce three to four times as many flower heads as will the single stemmed plant that has bloomed during the winter.
If you cut the latter back after it has bloomed the main stem will have hardened and will no longer produce side shoots except at the very top of the plant, thus creating a top heavy garden plant with few if any leaves at the base.
This procedure applies to cuttings grown under lights or on window sills.
DUTCH BULBS
Daffodils, crocus, hyacinths and most of the small bulbs should be planted during September while the garden soil is still warm. This means buying and planting them a few days after they are first offered for sale (about September 10th) often before the annuals have been cut down by frost.
If not planted early these bulbs may not root and bulbs without roots will likely freeze during the winter.
Tulips should be planted October 15th to November 15th. If later, they should be mulched the first year.
DAFFODILS
One of the most frequently asked questions is, why do my daffodils grow lots of leaves but do not bloom after the first year? There are two conditions characteristic of southern Ontario that may be the answer. First they do not like clay soil, and second most of the cultivated land in Southern Ontario lacks
phosphorous, one of the three chief ingredients of general purpose fertilizers. This element is most important to successful bulb growth. It can be supplied by either superphosphate 20 or bone meal, the former being available sooner to the bulbs.
Daffodils are heavy feeders and should be fed twice a year, once in the very early spring and again in September, when they are starting to root again. A good balanced fertilizer is 4-12-8, the emphasis being on low nitrogen and high phosphorous.
If your soil is heavy clay it is better to dig out the earth where you are going to plant them and replace it with at least ten inches of light rich soil containing ample humus. This can be provided by adding peat moss and leaf mold. The bulbs should be planted six inches deep prior to October 1st.
NEW DARWIN HYBRIDS
These spectacular tulips were produced by crossing standard Darwins with Tulip Fosteriana, the former imparting height and strength of stem, the latter earliness and size ofbloom.
They are about ten days earlier than the regular Darwins blooming about May 12th.
The bulbs also last longer often blooming for 5 years without deterioration if fed annually. Reds and yellows predominate although recently salmon and orange have been added.
Some of the more popular are:
Apeldoorn bright scarlet
Beauty of Apeldoorn yellow flushed scarlet
Elizabeth Arden salmon
Gudoshnik rosy red and yellow
Jewel of Spring yellow
Orange Sun orange
Available at C.A. Cruickshanks Ltd., Sheridan Nurseries and other retail outlets.
CHRYSANTHEMUMS (Garden)
This popular fall blooming perennial suffered severe winter damage during the past winter due to the lack of snow cover. Through the previous three winters many gardeners found that their mums survived outdoors without any protection. However, to avoid having to replace them periodically, digging up the clumps with soil attached and placing them in a covered cold frame will solve the problem.
In early spring you can divide the clumps into at least half a dozen rooted pieces, throwing away the old woody parts. Such shoots will make a strong healthy blooming plant by October. If in dividing pieces of stem break away from the old roots they can be readily rooted in vermiculite or sandy loam.
For best results the same treatment should be given to clumps that have survived outdoors.
BIRD FEEDER ECONOMY
If your feeder is an open sided one and is overun with starlings, pigeons and house sparrows you can eliminate or discourage them by using only sun flower seed. Starlings can t split this seed or swallow it whole and house sparrows will not usually take much either.
The more attractive birds such as chickadees, cardinals, tree sparrows, evening grosbeaks, goldfinches and nuthatches can all split and enjoy sunflower seed. Bluejays can not only split them but swallow shell and all if necessary. They are greedy bold feeders but very handsome birds. By following this procedure the writer has reduced his feeding costs bytwo-thirds without any decrease in the more desirable species. * Ernest Pope is on the Advisory Committee of the Civic Garden Centre and an active member of the Men s Garden Club andNorth Toronto Horticultural Society. He contributes regulary to TRELLIS.
Keep your eye on the Centre
Events in September & October
In the Gallery.in September: Art Works by Margaret Sawchuk
Sept. 7
Sept. 13
Sept. 14
Sept. 20-21
Sept. 22
Sept. 24
ExploringforGesneriadsaroundtheWorld 2.00p.m.An illustrated talk by Dr. Larry Skog, Department of Botany, Smithsonian Institution. Ajoint function with the Toronto Gesneriad Society.
Junior Garden Clubs Show
Canadian Rose Society Show
Canadian Chrysanthemum & Dahlia Society Early Show
Mushroom Show by the Toronto Mycological Society
The Philippine Eagle 8.00 p.m. FREE s second movie of anendangered species, the magnificent Philippine Eagle, follows their enormously successful first film, shown at the Centre in 1978. Admission $3.00
Sept. 27-28
Foreign Bird Society Show
In the Gallery in October: Paintingsby theWillowdale Group of Artists
Oct. 17-19 et 23
The Centre s Winter Bouquet and House Plant Sale
The ideal answer toyourhome decoration needs forthe winter months. Outstanding bargains both in dried bouquets and preserved plant materials, and in house plants.
Getting Started in Chrysanthemums
A Hort. night planned in conjuction with the Canadian Chrysanthemum and Dahlia Society
Courses starting in this period are listed below. Check your July Trellis for further details:
Sept. 10
Sept. 10
Sept. 11
Sept. 15
Sept. 15
Sept. 17
Sept. 26
Sept. 27
Sept. 29
Oct. 11
Oct. 14
Oct. 20
Qct, 22
Oct 27
Your garden in the Fall
Flower Arranging Basic |
Flower Arranging Basic |
Chinese Brush Painting
Botanical Art
Oriental Flower Arranging
Rug Hooking
Animals Into Art
Needlepoint for Beginners
Growing Herbs Indoors
Creative Floral Design
Dried Flower Workshop . House Plant Care (Wednesdays) ~ The Philippine Eagle : See movie Sept. 24. Pine Cone Craft Workshop
The House Plant Sale is entirely dependent on your generosity. Please remember us when you re bringing in those house plants in the fall, and set some aside for the Centre. We 'll be getting the sale ready between 10.00 a.m. and 4.00 p.m. on Thursday October 16. Please bring your plants then.
Next spring we also plan to repeat this spring s very successful White Elephant Sale. We can take materials for this at any time, so when you're doing your fall cleanout put aside any things that are surplus to your needs and bring them in. No bulky items, thank you, and we re not in a position to store clothing at this time.
CREATIVE FLORAL DESIGN
We are pleased to announce that the instructors for the Creative Floral Design workshops, which willnowbe on Oct. 14, 21 and 29, will be MRS. MARY BAILLIE, MRS. JOAN McMULLEN and MRS. AUDREY MEIKLEJOHN.
IN THE FUTURE
Don' t forget the Beginning with Orchids Hort. night on November 19, and Deck the Halls , the Garden Club of Toronto s special Christmas Show, on December 3-4. We'll also repeat the November Niagara Falls bus trip to see water birds if there are enough people to fill a bus. November 10is the probable date and the cost between $10.00 and $12.00. If you re interested, phone the Centre to register for this popular trip.
International Orchid Centre EXOTIC ORCHID PLANTS
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Potting media and accessories (416)961-7335
1098 Yonge Street, Toronto
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o AQUA-TERRA granules store water in the soil. Plants take water when needed.
o AQUA-TERRA extends watering 3 to 5 times longer
o AQUA-TERRA prevents over-watering. Eliminates root rot.
Buy AQUA-TERRA at Sheridan Nurseries, Weall & Cullen, Reeves Florist and NurseryWoodbridge, White Rose Nurseries and The Civic Garden Centre.
We care about yourgardening problems. Come andsee us at our unique Garden Centre and Greenhouses. 5
2= Bulbs in =Z7 the Rock Garden
by Edith Kenzie
With autumn at hand we can t say sweet dreams to our gardens, and an even more heartfelt bonne chance! until we have delved through the stimulating pages of the bulb catalogues, made our choices, and tucked in a few more treasures to look forward to when the blessed spring arrives. There are surely no flowers more eagerly anticipated than the first fresh-faced bulbs of spring. The fact that their immaculate, satintextured petals seem to belie the constitution of a dandelion, adds to the marvel.
Which of the early bulbs is the first to bloom depends to some extent upon your particular conditions, aside from the built-in rhythm of the species; probably a combination of soil-type, aspect (east, west, etc.), degree of shade, proximity of walls, rocks, trees. A light, sandy soil close to a southfacing housewall, otherwise open to the sky, will likely produce the most prompt appearance of the early-blooming types. However, if your garden does not provide these features, you can enjoy your flowers when everyone else s are over, so it is not really important.
In my rock garden the winter aconite is the first to bloom in the two-inch canyon between my south housewall and a cliff of deep snow, usually appearing about the middle of February. Back under the trees they may not bloom until a month later. In the garden of my neighbor, it is the snowdrop which appears first.
Early in March the species crocus are showing color Crocus chrysanthus in many shades, and C.
Tomasinianus in purple or white. Now the scillas and Chionodoxa are turning the ground blue, and by the time all these are fading, the late crocuses, daffodils, narcissus, early tulips, bulbous iris, hyacinths, grape hyacinths, are in full spate.
Dazzling though all this beauty is, the suitability of the various bulbous plants in the rock garden must be studied. Some of the early ones can present serious problems. They increase all too readily by seeds and offsets. With others, the maturing foliage (which of course must be allowed to ripen to provide food to the bulb for next year) is large and floppy, which is unsightly and also may shade or even smother nearby delicate plants.
The prolific dispensing of seeds delights the innocent gardener at first, and only after a few years does it become evident that the pet has turned into a pest. The obvious remedies are to pick off the seeds, and dig out surplus plants. Picking seeds of a dozen plants, or even a hundred, is not impracticable, but hundreds? And the little bulbs or corms work their way deep into the ground, often under rocks, so it could be necessary to take the rocks out to get at them.
The winter aconite is an enthusiastic seeder, and also has problem foliage, as the tiny plant which may start to bloom when only an inch high, turns into an eightincher with coarse, though pretty, cut leaves and dozens of seeds. The lovely scillas and Chionodoxa also develop a blanket of heavy, yellowing
leaves, but their way of handlingtheir seeds is to droop the fading flower to the ground where the fat seed . capsule matures, depositing the seeds directly into the earth. Having been through years of struggle with these problems (not yet resolved), I feel I cannot emphasize the hazard too strongly.
On the other hand, it is unthinkable that anyone who loves these beautiful things and who doesn t? should not grow them. It is a matter of planting them in a manageable location. An open space, large or small, near the rock garden but not in it (nor on a level above it) can probably be provided, where such beloved nuisances can be enjoyed, but always watched over and kept within bounds. The ideal spot for aconites, scillas and Chionodoxa is actually under shrubs, or in a woodland area.
The species crocus may cause
WONDERLAND OF BULBS
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The multitude of rare and interesting bulbs listed, over 700 varieties, many difficult to obtain elsewhere, will prove to be a revelation. By far the most complete bulb catalogue in Canada.
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concern also, but at least their foliage is sparse and grass-like, nor do the bulbs dig themselves in so determinedly.
The time-honored way of dealing with fading bulb foliage is to bend the leaves over and tie them lightly with soft string, raffia, or even an elastic band.
Having dealt kindly but firmly with the aconite, the scilla and the Chionodoxa, let us go on.
Blooming slightly later than the snowdrop, we must include the exquisite but not so well known Leucojum, the spring snowflake. It is very like the snowdrop but is somewhat larger, with a delicate green tip to the petals; and when you peek into the bell, you see lovely pale green touches there too.
Iris reticulata is another early bloomer, and comes in a wide range of shades lovely clear blues, white, yellow, violet to purple, and even a rosy red, with varying touches of yellow and golden crests. Some are sweet-scented. The narrow, grassy leaves soon disappear after flowering. The larger daffodils and narcissus are perhaps better placed elsewhere in most city properties where the rock garden may not provide wide vistas. For the rock garden there are many lovely ones in small sizes. Narcissus triandrus, Angel s Tears , is a gem, and the tiny miniature daffodils are a delight. Mr. Cruickshank will be offering a new miniature this fall named Little Witch , which sounds promising. These precious little ones may not prove to be very permanent, but even if they bloom for only two seasons, they are worth it.
Everyone knows the early tulips the Kaufmannianas, some of them only 5 to 8 tall, and Fosteriana Princeps (like a small Red Emperor). In the tulip species section there are many delightful little wildlings which
form clumps, many of them having several flowers to a stem. Tulipa tarda is an example, yellow within, green on the outside. Similar in color is Tulipa Urumiensis, discovered by a member of the Cruickshank firm in a small area of Turkestan. This group often displays colors not as brilliant as the garden tulips, but very charming. One thing to remember is that many of the tulips open only while the sun shines on them, so place them where they can be enjoyed for the longest period.
One little gem among the tulips is Tulipa violacea, only 5 high, and with very distinctive coloring. In the Cruickshank catalogue it is described as bright rosy-violet with a yellow centre , but occasionally you may encounter one with a deeper or lighter shade, and they may even have a black or deep blue centre. Whatever the color, there is nothing dull about it, and in addition it has a sweet perfume. Though rather expensive, even one specimen is worth featuring in a choice location. If you have never tried Tulipa Clusiana, the Lady Tulip you have missed something special. Slender and delicate, white with rosy interior, a small group makes a beautiful sight, and the bulbs are long lasting.
For later bloom, Alliums (ves, onions!) provide a few highly attractive and suitable forms. The common Allium Moly grows about a foot high, has large, clear yellow flowers, and it is vigorous without being invasive.Similar in style but more restrained in growth, is Allium roseum, a lovely rosy-pink. Probably
BOOK NOW for new illustrated talks in November December on perennials. Features Floralies speaker. THE Write for details:
the best for a rock garden is A. cyaneum. This forms a 6 clump of fine, grassy, bright green foliage, and inch-wide heads of clear, deep blue flowers in late summer. You may have to find a source for seeds for this one.
The attractive Fritillaria meleagris is not seen enough in our gardens. The common names are Checker-lily, Snakeshead, or Guinea-hen Flower. Meleagris means spotted like a guinea-fowl , and this describes the colored ones very well preferable to Snakes-head ! The markings are in shades of maroon or purple, on graceful hanging bells. And if this description sounds dull, be assured
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that it is very attractive. The white one, with veinings of green, is even more beautiful, to those who love white flowers.
Similar to Chionodoxa, and not yet receiving the attention it deserves, is the Puschkinia. The florets are in dense spikes, and are either pale blue with a darker blue stripe, or pure white lovely.
A plant new to me which I am trying this year is Rhodohypoxis, native to Natal, and carried by Alpenglow in Surrey, B.C. When it arrived this spring it was in bloom, and [ was enchanted. It stands only 6 or so high, with light green leaves and flowers ofwhite or rose. Baillie says adapted to an environment of a welldrained rock-garden when planted in a sandy soil in full sun which sounds a bit fussy. But if they don t pull through this winter, I am determined to try again!
[ have written only of what I know. There are many beguiling bulbous plants named in the catalogues and seed lists, and when (not if!) [ try them, perhaps [ will have an opportunity to report my findings to you. In the meantime, join me in the happy hazards of experimentation!
Mrs. Edith Kenzie is Secretary of the Bonsai Society and a keen rock gardener.
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At first thought, why should anyone be interested in alternatives to grass? Grass covers the ground beautifully when it is carefully tended (weeded, watered, fertilized, rolled, cut, topdressed, raked, aerated, sprayed and generally babied). Lawns are easily established by seeding in August and September, but we want to examine the ideathat the money customarily spent on grass sod might be better used in other ways.
In recent years lawns have expanded around homes and especially along highways, in industrial areas, on golf courses, and in parks. The technology developed for fairways has been used in gardens; however, monitoring of side effects has been limited to casual
Plant Food 6-2:2
Primarily from fish solubles
observations of trees and incidental genetic and health alterations. Perhaps the joke ison us?
How did we get into this awkward position, with more grass than we can look after without relying on inappropriate and possibly dangerous (in the long run) technology? Perhaps in admiration for the beautiful effects of green pastures in the countryside? We have transplantedthese effectsto the city, and changed the technique to one heavily dependent on energy and biocides. Coming from smaller countries and more maritime climates where grasses stay green all year, our heritage and training incline us to use grass lawns here instead of looking to native plant associationswhichwould look after themselves with very little
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help from us. can choose the setting for our living Todaywe can deliberatelychoose | andworking areas; for example, we to use less energy and fewer can choose to use a forest with a pollutants in the production and brown forest floor, a prairie full of wild maintenance of our landscapes. We flowers, or a patchwork carpet, but can choose to design for Ontario, for | by default we get grass, and even Canada, for Anytown , U.S.A. We sodding by-laws.
Alternative I No Canopy
This alternative gives plants which will grow well in sunny, more open areas. In lawns: Johnny jumpups (Viola sp.). In the snowbelt, English daisies, Bellis perennis.
On poor dry lawns, such as high on a windy hill: thymes.
On Nitrogen-starved soils: Orange Hawkweed and Ox-eye Daisy (Chrysanthemum leucanthemum), Goldmoss (Sedum acre), and perhaps Bugloss if the tattered appearance after flowering will not be a problem. Coltsfoot will do well on subsoil exposures, especially in damp spots, and on clay.
Wild rose (Rosa blanda).
In a meadow: Where conditions are drier, as they often are on newly serviced land, we have the opportunity to develop a meadow, especially where there is no seed source for tree seeds. Plants to use include: Dame s Rocket (Hesperis), with seed available in July and August.
Wild rose, Rosa blanda, Fall seed.
Milfoil (Achillea Millefolium), seed all summer.
Dirifts of exotic bulbs; perhaps in a mixture of plants like: Clovers, Ox-eye Daisy, Birds-foot Trefolil, Alsike Clover, Lespedeza, Chicory, Knapweed, Silene, Goatsbeard (Tragopogon), Black-eyed Susan, Canada Anemone, thin-stemmed poppies such as the Iceland Poppy.
Grasses, such as Little Bluestem, Andropogon scoparius (seed in September), and Squirrel-tail grass, Hordeumjubatum (seed ready in August.)
Perhaps clumps of Cup-plant (Silphium perfoliatum) grown from seed collected in September. Cup-plant is on the nationally rare list, and as such, deserves wider cultivation.
Mowing may be done after seed is ripe. Clumps of tall-growing perennials can sometimes persist through the winter, not needing to be mowed. Mowing paths are probably all that is necessary. Other alternatives to grass are simply plants that can be walked on, or that look as though they can be walked on. The latter include shrubs or even trees planted close together, when viewed from a tall building.
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The forest is not so easy to fit into the landscape on a small lot basis, but it has been done in Ontario. Both back and front yards have been planted with trees and shrubs to the exclusion of grass. In short order the group was able to keep out weeds. This concept is more suitable for a block or a neighborhood where reforestation can be carried out at reasonable prices; however, the archcompetitor (grass) must be kept within bounds until the trees and shrubs are established. Mown areas should be limited by design. Rocks and other obstacles can be used to do this. By reducing the area in lawns, we could reduce our dependence on biocides those smelly sprays that pollute the air, wafting from one house all over the block so no area is free of the taint. We should contain our lawn to an area no larger than we can comfortably weed by hand . . .
The only way to maintain a weedfree bluegrass lawn without effort is
Mini Rose Nursery
Specializing in Miniature Roses
For 1980 Listing write Florence Gahagan
P.O. Box 873, Guelph, Ontario N1H 6M6
to plant a Black Walnut a tree that is its own weed Killer. This will provide a grass area that is as maintenance-free as anyone has a right to expect. Black Walnut planted with Autumn Olive will establish a closed community that generally excludes all small species except mauve beebalm, black raspberries, and bluegrass. This kind of a forest could be established on a block basis, although people who live in such a blockshouldbe warned that other plants they might want to grow will not likely survive in the jugloneimpregnated soil from the black walnut rooting area.
Alternative Il Canopy Tree Associations
Fora Good Site:
Dry:
Moist Sand: Moist: or or
Very Moist: Moist, cool:
Fora Fair Site: or
On gravel:
Fora Poor Site:
Dry:
Wet:
White Oak, Shagbark Hickory, Red Oak, White Pine, Beech, andJuniper
Oak and Sassafras (on a well developed soil)
Sugar Maple, Cucumber tree, Tulip Tree, Amelanchier arborea, Yellowwood. White Ash, Basswood, Paper Birch, Black Cherry, Beech, Buckeye. Kentucky Coffee Tree, BlackWalnut,Cucumbertree, White Pine.
Willow, Plane, Red Maple, Black Ash. Hemlock (on a north-facing slope).
Sugar Maple, Green Ash, I[ronwood, Bitternut Hickory, Black Cherry. Red Maple, Largetooth Aspen, Choke Cherry, Silver Birch. Birch, Aspen, Red Cherry.
White Cedar, Red Juniper, Hawthorn, Ironwood, Honey Locust.
Alder, Willow, Plane, Silver Maple, Black Ash, Red Maple.
Plant associations are those groups of trees, shrubs and herbs that have found congenial growing conditions together. A plant association can be a symbiotic group, with individuals doing better growing with others of the group, or at least tolerating each other in peace. In Ontario native plant associations are possible for every site, from the most disturbed to
the most richly developed soils. Unwanted plants can be kept out by matching plants appropriate to the soil and site conditions, and by planting thickly at first and reducing the plant population as growth occurs. By planting Sorghum, turning it in as a green manure, weed competition can be reduced in the planting that follows later.
Alternative Il Canopy Under the trees
north side ofbuildings:
Under a heavy planting of trees, 6 -9 ofleafmold makes a satisfactory groundcover, as does peat-and-pine needles. Where more ornamental groundcovers are wanted, the weeding chore is easiest to handle with a 60% groundcover, 40% stepping-stones-and-pebbles pattern. Larger gardens have proportionately more groundcover. Plants to use include: Under deciduous trees (not the Black Walnut), and on the Ajuga or Periwinkle (Vinca), or both together.
Periwinkle with blue Forget-me-nots (will grow under Black Walnut). For acid spots: Hay-scented Fern (Contain the roots).
In dense shade: Gill-over-the-ground (Glechoma hederacea),
Veronica Speedwell, and/or
Parthenocissus inserta, the suctionless Virginia Creeper which does not climb, Moneywort (Lysimachia nummularia).
Virginia Waterleaf, from summer seed.
Bloodroot, from seed.
Exotic ivies from cuttings, June, or native ferns from spores grown
Large-leafed aster (Aster macrophylla) from August and September
Bluestem goldenrod, (Solidago caesia) and Zigzag Goldenrod (Solidagoflexicaulis) both grown from October
MapleleafViburnum, Viburnum acerifolium, from October seed.
For a dry spot: Canada White Violet.
For a damp spot, such as the foot of a slope: Celandine (summer
on damp peat in a closed jar. seed. seed. seed).
For edges andopenings: Lemon lily (Hemerocallis Lilioasphodelus) and hayscented fern (contain the roots).
For a low, tufted, grasslike effect: Two native sedges which grow in woodlands, a small narrow-leafed one Carex eburnea and a flatleafed
one Carexpennsylvanica. No mowing is required. September.
In Sandy Pinewoods: (Under White Pine), Common Horsetail, (Equisetum) Foamflower, and Wild Lily-of-the-Valley (Maianthemum canadensis) grown from berries picked in Mary Smith, Toronto LandscapeArchitect, is active in the Ontario Shade Tree
Counciland Toronto FieldNaturalists
by MaggieButt
While many legends surround the plants known as herbs growing and using them can provide many hours of happiness and pleasure. Used for centuries as medicines, foods, perfumes and potions, these simple plants have afforded mankind many hours of comfort and cheer. The following list has been divided into potted plants which can be placed in the garden during the summer and those grown in the garden. Although great controversy rages over the use of fertilizer, | have found a deep mulch to keep the roots cool and moist, with a moderate use of fertilizer can help greatly. Potted plants kept for cooking purposes and clipped regularly should be fertilized more often.
Indoor Pot Plants
Rosemary perennial, slow growing, bushy plant with woody stems, narrow leaves, dark green above grey beneath, small pale blue flowers, leaves spicy fragrant. Sunny warm spot, light, well drained soil, can withstand cool temperatures in winter. Roots must be kept moist but not wet. Used in soups, stews, roast pork, veal, lamb, for teas and scent bags.
Lemon Verbena perennial, tender plant, needs warm, full sun. Can tolerate 55--60F in winter. May be cut back in fall when brought indoors, remove weaker stems in February, should progress nicely for spring. Pleasant in teas and fruit salads.
Scented Geraniums Rose, Lemon, Cinnamon, Nutmeg and many others are grown as any other
geranium. Put out in the garden during the summer, the large plant may be brought indoors in the fall and cut back or it may be slipped and new smaller plants started indoors. Leaves used in puddings, sponge cakes, fruit salads, ice cream and pot-pourri.
Sweet Bay perennial, a small tree, this tender plant takes to pots very well. Slow growing, it seems to do best in partial shade. Large fragrant leaves used in soups, stews and roasts. Roots shoud be kept moist but not damp.
Garden Plants
Chives perennial, may be liftedto bring indoors. Grown from seed or root division, slow germination from seed. Medium rich sail, full sun. Globular lavender flowers make excellent chive vinegar. Leaves chopped in eggdishes, salads, fish soups, creamed cheeses, mashed potatoes.
Thyme perennial, a single plant may be liftedto take indoors. While there are many varities of thyme the most commonly used are garden thyme and lemon thyme. Plants grow in a small round bush 10-12 , will spread with age. Woody stems, dark green leaves of narrow oblong shape. Needsto be reseeded regularly as beds last about four years. Can be used for edgingor rock gardens or clump plantings. Very fragrant, full sun, small mauveflowers in early summer. May winter Kill. Usedfor custards, stews, soups, vinegars, meat, fish poultry, peas, carrots, cheese, jellies, teas.
Basil annual, single plant may be lifted for indoors. If not allowed to bloom and kept from drafts will live for several years. A small bush, grows in full sun, moderate moisture, 1518 , oval light green leaves with peppery taste and fragrance. Purpleleafed basil as above, but with reddish purple leaves. Dwarfbasil, very pretty, not found as seed. Curly basil similar to above but leaves curl in attractive manner. Used in teas, soup, stews, pork, egg and tomato dishes, fish, creamed or cottage cheese.
Parsley biennial, may last longer if flower stalks removed before blooming. Single plant may be lifted for indoors, deep roots. Grown from seed, germination is slow. Several varities available. Can be grown as clumps or edgings. Medium rich soil in part shade. Keep leaves clipped for thick growth. Seeds may be sown in autumn. Used in soups, stews, vegetable salads, eggs and garnishes.
Sorrel perennial, two varieties French and garden sorrel are grown from seed and self sow freely. Needs care in transplanting. Need heavy moist soil, full sun. Centre stalks reach height of 3-4 . Leaves slightly acid in early summer, become tough and very acid in late summer. Excellent for soup, salads.
Tarragon-French perennial by cutting or root division, does not set seed. Small woody plant 18-24 , leaves narrow, dark green, rich well drained soil, partial shade, has strong anise taste. Fish soups, stews, chicken, salad dressings, vinegars.
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Comfrey perennial, hardy, rank grower from seed or root, arrow shaped, rough hairy green leaves, bell like blossom in mauve, blue or white. Leaves used in salads, teas.
Nasturtium annual, from seed, low growing, round or kidney shaped leaves, orange-yellow flowers. Light soil, full sun. Seeds used in pickles, blossoms and leaves in salads, peppery taste.
Maggie Butt is a member of the Southern Ontario Unit of Herb Society of America.
HERB BOOKS inthe library by Pamela MacKenzie
Brooklyn Botanic Garden Record. Handbook on herbs. 1958 Contains a dictionary of herbs with black and white photographs, and notes on culture and use.
Brooklyn Botanic Garden Record. Handbook on herbs and their ornamental uses. 1973 Includes designs for herb gardens and articles on herb growing in containers and in city gardens.
Erichsen-Brown, Charlotte. Herbs in Ontario. 1975 This extremely useful booklet lists fifty herbs. Under the name of each plant are notes on soil, seed, potting, harvesting and use.
Simmons, Adelma G. Herbs to grow indoorsfor flavor, for fragrance, for fun. 1969
Explains which herbs will do well as windowsill plants in winter, and has a separate section of herb recipes. Stevenson, Violet. A modern herbal: how to grow, cook and use herbs. 1974
A well-llustrated and comprehensive guide to cultivation, with information on dried herbs, pot-pourris and cooking.
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ROOTS OF BLACK ?° 5 ° ENTERPRISES LTD. WALNUT TREES il M & H Nishi have harmful effect on many species O(l;JARSSQI\SJSg? % : E%Sg féNG of plants g within the root ® Planning, design and construction by zone. (English Waln_Ut does not bave Japanese landscape architects and this effect.) Susceptible to this injury: horticulturists.
Commercial, industrial, large estatesand residential including townhouses. Indoor and outdoor Tree pruning and spraying broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, eggplant, peas, pepper, potato, tomato. Avoid planting these vegetables. If walnut tree removed, Maintenance service harmful effect still lasts many years. Government licensed weedcontrol
