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January
1981
Volume 8, Number 1
In this issue
Cover picture: ShowyLady s-Slippers photographed by Fredrik Kirby
Garden with wildflowers/5
Happiness is having a green thumb/8
Now is the time/10
Programme January/June 1981/11
Indoor plants and their problems/18
Horticultural Advisory Committee
Gerda Ferrington, Hal Price, Ken Reeves, Otto Richter, William Rock, Laurie Scullin
Executive Director: Clive E. Goodwin
Editor: Fredrik Kirby
Advertising: Shirley Kirby (416) 226-0996
Graphics and Printing Drewmark Graphics, Toronto
Trellisis publishedin the months of January, March, May, July, September, and November and distributed on or about the 15th of the month previous by the Civic Garden Centre, 777 Lawrence Avenue East, Don Mills, Ontario . M3C 1P2. Telephone: (416) 445-1552. The Centreis locatedin Edwards Gardens, at Leslie Street and Lawrence Avenue East, the geographical centre of Metropohtan Toronto. Itis a non-profit gardening and floral arts information organization with open membership. Subscriptions to Trellis are only available through Centre membership (10 per year). Opinions expressed within do not necessarily reflect those of the Centre.
You can enjoy all these benefits when you subscribe to TRELLIS horticulture and gardening magazine.
You become a member ofThe Civic Garden Centre. You will receive special members rates on all courses. You receive TRELLIS by mail every two months. It contains timely articles by outstanding authors; how-to-stories and seasonal suggestions; news of events and courses held at The Civic Garden Centre.
4. You may register for craftcourses,seespecialshows, hearqualified speakers.
5. You can borrow free from over4,000 gardening books.
6. You SAVE 10% on purchases over $2.00 at the Garden and Book Shops.
$10.00 O AnnualSubscription 2.50 O Additional family member O Corporate on request
[ wish to subscribe to TRELLIS and become a member of THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE. Enclosed is my cheque for $ made out to THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE, 777 Lawrence Avenue East, Don Mills, Ontario M3C 1P2.
NAME ADDRESS
POSTAL CODE PHONE
will receive receipt for tax. (Reg. No. 0228114-56-13)
Gardening with Wildflower§
byFrank E. Kershaw
Ofall the variedforms ofgardening that many of us enjoy, it is perhaps surprising to learn that wildflower gardening is a little explored subject still in its infancy. I say this because of both the number of individuals actively involved in this subject and the degree of current research being undertaken. Without doubt, this topic still remains the chief concern of horticulturists and naturalists working in arboretums and botanical gardens as well as ahandful of dedicated growers in the United States.
While literature abounds on how to identify native plants, there are few definitive references on propagating and gardening with wildflowers. As an individual keenly interested in the preservation of native flora, I would dearly love to see this situation change. Perhaps you might think this statement is somewhat of a contradiction talking about wildflowers which are largely confined to natural areas through the venue of wildflower gardening. Well, at first glance it may seem so, but in reality wildflower gardening can produce the needed insights into the preservation ofplants through observation and experimentation.
One need not rob nature s treasure chest to undertake such work, as many country homeowners have wildflowers at their doorstep and a number ofcommercial suppliers sell plants in the U.S.A. and Canada. As a prelude to a lecture series [ will be giving at the Civic Garden Centre in
the New Year, | thought that I should introduce myself via a short general article on the topic.
No discussion ofwildflowers would be complete without saying a few words about soil and water. Perhaps if there is any aspect that is most confusing respecting wildflowers, it s that of soil. Species lists for various plants in garden books go into great depth about this subject but unfortunately opinions differ. This is particularly so concerning soil pH (or the degree of soil acidity and alkalinity). As you may know, a neutral soil is one with a pH of 7. Anything below 7 is acidic, anything above alkaline. A soil with a pH of6 is 10 times more acidthan 7, with a pH of 5 100 times more acid than 7 and so on.
[ can remember reading wildflower
Bunchberry photographed by Shirley Kirby
books with one source noting Showy Ladyslipper Orchids (Cypripedium reginae) preferred a pH of 5.5 t0 6.5, whereas another would say 7.0 to 7.5. In reality, they seem to do best in the 6.8 to 7.2 pH range, a near neutral condition. Other examples of similar dichotomies exist but [ think 've made my point. If it is of any consolation to those gardeners thinking of growing wildflowers and desirous of a blanket statement, | would propose you try a good, friable sandy loam soil rich in leaf mulch with apH of 5.8 to 7.0. The vast majority of our wildflowers without doubt do better in such a soil and particularly those where leaf mulch results in a slightly acidic condition. Clay soils which are so common throughout our area are very susceptible to frost heaving which has disastrous effects on many woodland wildflowers which are shallow rooted.
Moisture requirements is another topic of heated debate and one where pat answers seldom suffice to answer realities. Talking again about Showy Ladyslippers, | have read that they like it good and wet. Gardeners interpreting this literally water the plant to death. In actualfact, Showy Ladyslippers do not like a semisubmerged condition, but rather a little knoll whereon they can remain high and dry apart from their roots which will go deep for sub-surface moisture. It s no small wonder that rot and fungus lead to the downfall of such species which come under the onslaught of frequent garden hose drenchings.
Another consequence of overwater is tall, spindly plants not capable of supporting themselves. This is very evident with dry land species such as Liatris (Blazing Stars) which, if kept on the dry side, will search deep for water and remain stout of stock, whereas if over-watered, will go spindly and droop inward.
Another consideration in growing wildflowers is that offertilization. While ornamentals will benefit from commercial fertilizers, wildflowers will in most cases not. Chemical fertilizer and the quantities commonly advertisedfor garden crops can burn the sensitive roots of these little woodland gems. In almost all cases, properly planted wildflowers in a well mulched soil will dojust fine. The only commercial product I would even mention as a last resort would be a light dressing of bonemeal, which is slow reacting and safe when brought into contact with vascular plant roots.
Another major difference in wildflower gardening to other forms of gardening relates to cultivation. Whereas annual beds will benefit by a forking or turning over of soil prior to planting, wildflowers will not and, in fact, disastrous results would result. Wildflowers are somewhat akin to icebergs, with what' s below the surface the critical part. Any disturbance to roots will likely spell the plant s death. The other point to make is the extent of root length. This is particularly true with spring woodland species which grow long and far for a cool root shelter such as arock, stump or fallen log. This
Yellow Lady -lipr phreaby Fredrik Kirby
is often the reason that collected stock does so poorly. Simply, people fail to obtain the majority of the root zone. Some species, like Clintonia, which send out a long root runner (called a rhizome) terminating with a bud which is next year s plant, are extremely difficult to transplant unless you have the full rhizome.
No discussion ofwildflower gardening would be complete without a few words about companion plantings and in this case I will limit my comments to trees. One ofthe most common questions | am asked is what trees go well with a wildflower garden? In briefest terms, | would suggest small to medium size treeswith preferably deep root systems. While I realize this statementis liable to make me some enemies with those gardeners who love large trees such as maple, beech and ash, the truth ofthe matter is your wildflowers will suffer trying to compete for available nutrients and water. Large, dense canopy trees also keep downthe density ofwildflowers and shorten the bloom season. A more open canopy with dappled shade is more ideal.
A word of explanation is probably required for the astute observer who has seen an abundance ofwildflowers in a mixed maple beech forest. In such a forest where there are many competing trees, roots go far and wide and are not as individually extensive as the same tree in a garden settingwhere grass fertilization and watering produce a myriad of feeder roots.
My preferred tree species are serviceberries (Amelanchier species), dogwood, preferably the flowering dogwood (Cornusflorida), hawthorns, particularly Washington hawthorn (Crataegus phaenopyrum), redbud (Cercis canadensis) and various medium size cherry species. On larger properties, red oak
(Quercus rubra) will also do nicely and add acid oakleaf mulch to the soil. Before trying any of the aforementioned trees, check plant hardiness in your area as some of the named trees will require considerable protection in early years.
In closing, [ can only hope this brief introduction to wildflower gardening has whetted the appetite of those who would like to delve into this fascinating subject a little deeper. Hopefully, [ will have the opportunity to meet some of you at the Civic Garden Centre during my lecture series.
Frank E. Kershaw is Manager of PlanningandDevelopment with the Metropolitan Toronto Parks Department. He is a horticulturist with a keen interest in wildflowers.
5 ROUND ( ESEEDSILO
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Metal perches with soft vinyl covers.
Easy to take apart for cleaning.
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Seed catcher attaches quickly and easily.
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Feeder and Seed available at Gift Shop, Civic Garden Centre.
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CHappiness is having a S reen Thumb
by Charlotte Smith
Meet the Green Thumbs, the Civic Garden Centre s youngest members. In the sixties when the Centre was a dream being fulfilled, Jim Boyd, the Director, was so determined that children have a place in the proposed program that a handful of volunteers was asked to organize a club for young people.
Our aim has been to show children something of the beauty and order of nature by looking a little more closely at the wonder of plant life and its environment. Growing plants is a great developer of patience, perseverance and reverence.
Sixteen years later, youngsters nine to thirteen years of age are still coming once a month to the Centre to enjoy some facet of the art of developing agreen thumb. Dish gardens, terrariums, trips, slipping house plants, growing a garden from seed, pressing, preserving and arranging flowers and sun photography are a few of the programsthat we have introduced over the years.
NATURAL BUG CONTROLS
INSECTICIDAL SOAPS
Six years ago, Jim Boyd obtained a tract of land and grew vegetables so that the young people could watch as they grew and then participate in harvesting and eatingthe produce. Children seem to have an affinity for tummy gardening. Today the garden is fenced and divided into 8 x 10 plots for young people who can devote a part oftheir summer to growing their own vegetables. In addition to the individual plots, one part of the groundis set aside for a herb garden, a strawberry patch and berry bushes. Another part is planted in squash, cabbage, cauliflower and melons which the children help to plant and harvest.
Parents share recipes for the ever prolific zucchini while the Green Thumbs argue the relative merits of the squash. Spaghetti squash usually wins, hands down. Each year the garden produces over thirty varieties ofvegetables to be observedand tasted, herbs to be sampled and compared, flowers tobe dried and wired for winter workshops. Sunflowers are a favorite, from the Russian Mammoths that smile benignly over the fence to the chubby, round Teddy Bears.
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Pheasants have eaten our seed, raccoons decimated the corn and one year young foxes turned out to entertain by gambolling across the park. Each year brings its surprises, and this year it was a family of baby rabbits secure in their down lined nest between two rows of carrots. Each week the expectation of seeing one of them still hopping around compensated for the loss of a few beet tops and lettuce.
Jim Boyd s Vegetable Garden for Children has been put to bed for the winter. The leaves from the magnificent century-old maples are piling up against the fence and plans are under way for 1981. Children grow in gardens which we have come to appreciate over the years. Our programs have expanded and developed under the ever supportive guidance of the Civic Garden Centre. It may be that our programs can be enhanced by the members of the Civic Garden Centre. May we hear
from you about any help or thoughts you may wish to share.
If you have a child who would be interested in joining the Green Thumbs or participating in the Garden Program, further information may be obtained from the following: Green Thumbs Junior Garden Club for children nine to thirteen years old. Membership $3.00 per year. Meets Saturday morning, once a month from September to June.
Call Barbara Burt 444-0473
Vegetable Garden Plots April through October.
A parent-child participatory program limited to an enrollment of eighteen ona first-come basis. Share-cost, share-produce program approximately $5.00 per year.
To reserve a garden for 1981 call Charlotte Smith 444-4510 no later than April 15.
Mrs. Smith has worked diligently with the Green Thumbs Garden Plots since their inception.
Happygroup of Green Thumbs practising their gardening skills.
Now isthetime
by ErnestPope
Seeding Time
While March is the big month for starting annuals for the summer garden, there are a few that take longer to mature. They must therefore be planted earlier. Some growers actually start their tuberous begonia and geranium seed as early as December 15th.
As temperatures in many houses show variation, especially in the basement and attic, it is a good idea to keep a book each year writing down the date of planting for each kind. After a few years you will arrive at the best planting time dates to suit your own temperature conditions. While most annual seeds germinate best at 70°F 20°C, the transplants need lower temperatures to mature properly.
The aim is to have your annuals about to form flowering stems and buds (but not in bloom) for planting out about May 24th.
Plants in flower do not transplant into the garden as well, because they are trying to anchor themselves in the ground by forming new roots, and at the same time continue to bloom. One or the other will often suffer. Here is a list of suggested seeding dates
January February
Tuberous Fibrous Begonias Begonias (Jan.1st) Tall (Feb. 5th)
Fibrous Begonias Gloriosa Daisies dwarf (Jan. 10th) (Feb. 20th)
Browallia Impatiens (Jan.15th) (Feb. 20th)
Geraniums Verbena(Feb. 15th) (Jan. 1st) Vinca rosea Pansies (Jan. 1st) (Feb. 15th)
These dates are based on night temperature of 13°C 64%F, and day continuedpage 16
THE CIVIC G ARDEN CENTRE
777 Lawrence Ave. East, Don Mills, M3C 1P2
NAME (PRINT) MEMBERSHIP & PHONE NO.
ADDRESS
CITY.
PLEASE REGISTER ME FOR THE FOLLOWING EVENTS
CLASS OR WORKSHOP
CODE TIME FEE
O I would like to take advantage of reduced rates offered members and enclose $10.00 for my annual fee (add $2.50 for each additional family member) Total enclosed
This is your programme for the next 6 months
THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE EDWARDS GARDENS
777 Lawrence Ave. East, Don Mills, M3C 1P2
PROGRAMME SCHEDULEJANUARY JUNE 1981
PROGRAMME SUBJECT TO
CHANGE
January In The Gallery Kenneth Hill Exhibition of Art Photography of Botanical Subjects
The Studios Urban Wilderness Escapefromthe Cityscape
Photography by Lorna Moor Schueler
Sculpture by Anthony Longo
January 9th Rug Hooking Course starts
January 12th Botanical Art Course starts
January 12th Beginners Needlepoint Course starts
January 14th Japanese Flower Arranging Course (Beginners) starts
January 19th Chinese Brush Painting Course starts
January 22nd Perennial Course starts
February 4th Educational Seminar . 4 p.m.
February 7-8th TheNorthYorkMirror sFirstAnnualSpringBulbFestival. Display andJudgingoftheApartmententrieswilltakeplaceinthe Floral Hall. Everyone Welcome!
February 11th Apartment Gardening Workshop 8.00 p.m. A workshop by apartment gardeners for apartment gardeners! Make sure all your hi-rise friends know about it.
February 11th Gardening With Wildflowers Course starts
February 11th Educational Seminar II. 4 p.m.
February 15th How to GrowRoses 8.00 p.m. An eveningjointlyoffered by the Centre andtheYorkRoseand GardenSocietyonbeginningwith roses. Free, everyone welcome!
February 18th Educational Seminar III. 4 p.m.
March In The Gallery M.A. Miller Art
March 2nd Botanical Art Course starts
March 4th Japanese Flower Arranging Course (Intermediate) starts
March 7th Home Gardening Course starts
March 9th Delta Elta Bridge
March 25-26th White Elephant Sale 10.00 a.m. 4.00 p.m. The Centre s secondannualWhiteElephantSale. Lastyear ssaleofferedsome exciting buys. Be sure to come early for the best selection of outstanding bargains.
March 21st Vegetable Gardening Workshop. A free morningof hints on better vegetable growing. 10.00 a.m.
March 28-29th Ikenobo lkebana Show
April In The Gallery Moira Mudie Chinese Brush Painting
April 2nd Experiments in Creative Design 2 workshops from 10.00 to 3 p.m. These workshops are intended for those who are taking judging courses or who wish to refresh their knowledge.
April 4th
April 6th
April 11-12th
April 15th
April 15th
April 25th
April 27th
April 29-30
May
May 4th
May 6th
May 7-8th
May 15th
May 23-24th
May 23-24th
May 25th
May 29-30-31st
June 1st
June 13-14th
June 19-27th
Alpha Omega Art Show
Intermediate Needlepoint Course starts
Toronto Gesneriad Society Show
Flower Arranging Course starts
Civic Garden Centre Hort. Night and Annual Meeting 7:30 p.m.
Introductory Herb Growing Course starts
Floral Craft Lectures begin
Garden Clubs ofOntario School
An Exhibition of Children sArt throughout the building
Rhododendron SocietyAuction
Photography Course starts
Garden Club of Toronto Flower show
Civic Garden Centre Plant Sale 10.00 a.m. 4.00 p.m. The PlantSaleistheplaceforyourspringgardenneeds. Comeearlyas there s always a heavy demand.
Southern OntarioOrchidSociety Show
Toronto African Violet Society Show
Pulled Thread Workshop
Rhododendron International Show
Bargello Workshop
Toronto Bonsai Society Show
Metro Caravan: The Hawaiian Pavilion. This is the firsttime CaravanhasbeenattheCentre.TheHawaiianPavilionpromises to be a really excitingevent.
WORKSHOPS AND COURSES
REGISTRATION IS REQUIRED FOR ALL CLASSES AND WORKSHOPS
Please use the form provided on p. 10 and mail proper remittance
WE REGRET NO CONFIRMATION OF REGISTRATION CAN BE SENT
January 9
January 12
RUG HOOKING Instructor Mrs. Clarke Sherbo. 8 week course on Fridays at 10:00 a.m. This is one of the Centre s most popularcourses. Basic rughookingwillbecovered,andtherewill be instruction in crewel as applied to rug hooking for advanced students.
Fee: $32.00 members, $36.00 non-members.
BOTANICAL ART Instructor Ann Dalton. 6weekcourse on Mondays, 10:00 a.m. 3:00 p.m. In this sectionofthe series of BotanicalArt classeswhich the Centre has been offeringforthe last three years, repeat students will be given the opportunity of developingtheirskills inamediumoftheirchoice.Instructionand guidancewillbeavailableinpencil,ink,charcoal,watercolourand oils. New students will be given a series of exercises in basic drawing skills in the media of pencil, charcoal, ink, and watercolour.
Fee: $45.00 members $50.00 non-members.
January 12
NEEDLEPOINT FOR BEGINNERS
Instructor Mrs. Shirley Hartley and Mrs. Judy Crothers. 5 week course on Mondays at 1:00 p.m. and 8:00 p.m. In this course a sampler will be worked,
January 19
January 22
and students will be taught awide range of techniques.
Fee: $20.00 members, $25.00 non-members.
CHINESE BRUSH PAINTING Instructors Moira Mudie and Patti Snell. 10 weekcourseonMondaysat 1:30p.m. 3:30p.m. ThiscoursewilldiscussthephilosophyofChineseArt,haveguest artists demonstrating various techniques, practise some calligraphy, and generally introduce the students to the delight and intricacies of this delicate art form. There will be classes for both the absolutebeginnerandthemoreexperienced artist. The course is also valuable for those wishing to improve their watercolour brushtechniques.
Fee: $50.00 members, $55.00 non-members.
PERENNIALS FOR ONTARIO GARDENS Instructor: Mr. Keith Squires. 6week course on Thursdays at 8:00 p.m. All aspectsofperennialswillbediscussed, andawiderangeofhardy perennials reviewed, includingmany thatareofexcellentquality but little used.
Fee: $35.00 members, $40.00 non-members.
February 11
March 2
March 7
March 14
GARDENING WITHWILDFLOWERS InstructorMr. Frank E. Kershaw. Four week course on Wednesdays at 8:00 p.m. Sources of plants, plantingand plant selection and mulching, as well asasessionondesignand layout are someofthetopicstobe covered in this new course on an increasingly popular topic.
Fee: $14.00 members, $16.00 non-members
BOTANICAL ART COURSE Instructor Ann Dalton. See January 12 for details.
HOME GARDENING FORBEGINNERS Instructor: Mr. Hal Price. 6 week course on Saturday mornings from 10:00 a.m. 12 noon. This course is designed specifically for the beginning gardener. Growing conditions will be covered, as well as Vegetables, Annuals, Perennials, Roses and propagation methods. Fee: $14.00
AWORKSHOP ON ORGANIC GARDENING Instructor DonaldHarvey. Saturday, 10:00a.m. 3:00p.m.Thisworkshop is designed for the gardener who wishes to incorporate some of theideas oforganicgardeningintohisregulargardeningroutines. Mr. Harvey farms organically inKingTownship andhas awealth of practical experience on this topic. Fee: $12.00 members, $14.00 non-members.
April 6
April 25
INTERMEDIATE NEEDLEPOINT Instructor Mrs. J.E. Hartley. 5weekcourseonMondaysat 1:00p.m.Thiscourseisfor those who have completed the Beginners course. Fee: $20.00 members, $25.00 non-members.
INTRODUCTORYHERB GROWING Instructor Barry Dimock. 3 WorkshopsonSaturdays, 10:00 a.m. 12:30p.m.An introduction to herb growing, with Barry Dimock of the Herb Homestead, and writer on herbs forEarly CanadianLife. Herbs
April 27
April 28
May 4
May 11
May 6
May 25 and
June 1
are the answer to the good cook s need to add more zest to cooking! Fee: $47.00 members, $52.00 non-members.
FLORAL CRAFT LECTURES Instructor: Mrs. Eileen Brooks Mondays at 1:30 p.m. and 7:30. These lectures will demonstrate the use of plant materials in preparing bouquets, and in related crafts.
PRESERVATION OF FLOWERS, LEAVES
PRESSEDFLOWERSANDCORN HUSKSCRAFTS
PINE CONE CRAFTS
Fee: $3.00asessionor$8.50 for three members,$3.50asession of $9.50 for three non-members.
PHOTOGRAPHY Instructors: Mr. and Mrs. Powell. 6 week course on Wednesdays at8:00p.m. TheJoysofPhotographing our Natural World is the Powells title for the popular course. Equipment, lightingandexposure, colourperception,designand miscellaneous techniques are among subjects covered.
Fee: $30.00 members, $35.00 non-members
FOUR-WAY BARGELLO AND PULLED THREAD WORKSHOPS
10:00 a.m. 3:00 p.m. Instructor: Mrs. J.E. Hartley. Students may register for eitheror both ofthese needlepoint workshops. Fee (each workshop): $10.00 members, $12.00 non-members.
FLOWER ARRANGING COURSES
January 14
March 4
April 2
April 15
JAPANESEFLOWER ARRANGING BEGINNERS 3 week course on Wednesday, 10:00 a.m. 3:00 p.m. Mrs.Kadoguchi, renowned Senseiofthe Ikenobo School, will again givethisvery popular course. Branches and flowers will be provided for approximately $2.50 aday.
Fee: $20.00 members.
JAPANESE FLOWER ARRANGING INTERMEDIATE 3week course on Wednesday 10:00 a.m. 3:00 p.m. This will be an opportunity for those who have takenthebeginnerscoursewith Mrs. Kadoguchi totesttheiracquiredskills andingenuity. Dotry tobookearlyaswecanonlytakealimitednumberofapplications.
Fee: $20.00 members.
EXPERIMENTS IN CREATIVE DESIGN 2 workshops from 10:00 to 3 p.m. These workshops areintendedforthosewho are takingjudging courses or who wish to refresh their knowledge.
Fee: $20.00 members.
BASICFLOWER ARRANGING 6 week course on Wednesdays, 1:30 p.m. and 8:00 p.m. This course offersthe beginner principles and elements of good design in flower arranging.
Fee: $20.00 members.
GROUP AND SPECIALTY GROUP MEETINGS
* Canadian Chrysanthemum & Dahlia Society: Starts 8.00 p.m. on: January 22nd, February 26th, March 26th, April 23rd, May 28th, June 18th.
* Garden Therapy Group: Starts 1.30 p.m. on: February 11th, March 11th, April 5th, May 13, June 3rd
* Hobby Greenhouse: Starts 8.00 p.m. on: January 28th, February 25th, March 25th, April 29th, May 27th.
* Indoor Light GardeningSociety: Starts 8.00 p.m. on: January 14th,February 11th, March 11th, April 8th, May 13th, June 10th.
* Men s Garden Club: Starts 7.30 p.m. on: January 6th, February 3rd, March 3rd, April 7th, May 5th, June 2nd.
* Southern Ontario Orchid Society: 1.00 - 5.00 p.m. on January 4th, February 1st, March 1st, April 5th, May 3rd, June 7th.
* Toronto Bonsai Society: Starts 8.00 p.m. on January 12th, February 9th, March 9th, April 13th, May 11th, June 8th.
* Toronto Gesneriad Society: 2.00 4.00 p.m. on January 11th, February 8th, March 8th, May 10th, June 14th.
* York Rose and Garden Society: Starts 2.00 p.m. on: February 15th, April 12th, May 13th, June 14th.
* Junior Garden Club Green Thumbs: Starts 9.45 a.m. on January 10th, February 14th, March 7th, April 4th, May 9th, June 13th.
CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE HOURS
Weekdays 9.30 a.m. to 4.00 p.m.
Saturdays 10.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m.
Sundays and Holidays 1.00 p.m. t0 4.00 p.m.
THANK YOU!
To all those who helped make the house plant sale a success by donating plants. We raised $1000. invaluable in helping the Centre pay its way, and continue to maintain its service.
NEEDED
WHITE ELEPHANTS AND PLANTS
We also need your help in makingthe White Elephant Sale and the Plant Sale successes. Please put aside any surplus items you may have for the White Elephant Sale small appliances, giftwares and books are all needed. Also please don t forget to start some additional seeds for the plant sale, and to bring over to the Centre any six- or eight- pack plant containers that you no longer need. Thank you again!
city gardens
Tropical Plants
Mini Rose Nursery
Specializing in Miniature Roses Sales and Maintenance For 1981 Listing write Florence Gahagan
lan A. McCallum, B.Sc.(Agriculture)
446-1040 9:00 - 5:00 Monday to Friday P.O. Box 873, Guelph, Ontario N1H 6M6
continuedfrom page 10 temperatures of 18°C 68°F. Ifyours are higher or lower it is suggested you plant one week later or one week earlier, respectively. It is better to be too late (within reason) than too early. Too early means elongated plantsthat never properly adjust, complete their life cycle too soon, and look very tired shortly after mid-summer.
Light Responsive Seeds
Anumber of annual seeds need light to germinate effectively. They should be sown on top ofthe medium, and pressed firmly into the surface to make contact.
Here is alist ofsome, that require this treatment
Ageratum
Alyssum
Begonia
Coleus
Impatiens
Nicotiana
Petunia
It should be noted that all the above seeds are very small, those of begonia being almost dust like. In planting any small seeds therefore it is wise to check the light factor. In some cases, such as Schizanthus, the seed should be surface planted, but the receptacle placed in the dark until germination takes place. Seed houses such as Stokes Seeds Ltd., make note of this on all their flower seed packets. Often one hears of gardeners who claim that their failure is due to poor seed, when usually the seedhas been covered in error.
International Orchid Centre EXOTIC ORCHID PLANTS
Potting media and accessories
(416) 961-7335
1098 Yonge Street, Toronto
Soilless Seeding Mixtures
For those who find it inconvenient to buy good seeding soil, or who don t want to go to the bother of mixing and sterilizing their own, there are several soilless mixes two of which are Peat-Lite and Jiffy-mix. Both are almost identical, beingmade up primarily of shredded sphagnum peat moss and fine grade vermiculite, plus enough nutrients to nourish the seedlings for about two weeks after germination has taken place.
With regular feedingthereafter plants can actually be transplanted and grown in it to maturity. Here are some of its advantages over soil
1. It is lightweight 2. It is sterile
3. It is free of soil diseases, insects and weeds
4. It remains constant from year to year, unlike soil whichvaries
5. It gives good aeration and drainage. Disadvantages
1. Fertilizer must be added regularly shortly after initial germination, as the mixture is devoid of longer range nutrients found in most soils.
2. It has a tendency to dry out more quickly than soil.
3. Seedlings need to be transplanted early, as roots can become a tangled mass if allowed to remain too long.
In spite of what has been said above, good quality soil mixes will still give youjust as good results at less cost, although more time and effort is required unless you buy a prepared mix.
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If you mix your own here is a good formula
1/3 Soil
1/3 Peatmoss (screened)
1/3 Vermiculite (fine)
Be sure and sterilize the soil and mix the ingredients thoroughly. If the vermiculite is too large it will open up the soil too much, especially for the small light responsive seeds which may settle down and become covered.
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¢ AQUA-TERRA granules store water in the soil. Plants take waterwhen needed..
o AQUA-TERRA extends watering 3 to 5 times longer.
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A good transplanting mix is the same as the soil seeding mix except that perlite or coarse sand is substituted for the vermiculite. In the writer s opinion, while the soilless mixture is preferable for seeding, the soil mix is the more effective for transplanting.
ErnestPope is on theAdvisory Committee ofthe Civic Garden Centre andan active memberofthe Men s Garden Club andNorth Toronto HorticulturalSociety. He contributes regularly to TRELLIS.
b 4
Buy AQUA-TERRA at Sheridan Nurseries, Weall & Cullen, Reeves Florist and Nursery Woodbridge, White Rose Nurseries and The Civic Garden Centre.
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Irdoor plarts ard their problems
byP.J. Tucker
The tropical plant trade expanded rapidly during the mid '70 s, fuelledby consumer demand for foliage and flowering tropicals. Initially selection was limited to those plants that tended to survive under low light and humidity levels; however, as homeowners became more proficient in care and culture of indoor plants they sought more unusual and rare flowering types. It is now not uncommon to see these offered by traditional sales outlets.
What considerations are necessary to keep these plants aesthetically attractive? How does one recognize symptoms of tropical plant problems, causes and cures?
Environmental factors such as light, temperature and humidity play a vital part in determining a plant s ability to survive. Fortunately home temperatures are suitable for most tropicals. Unfortunately, humidity andlight levels are unsuitable, and contribute to deterioration in interior grown plants.
The former problems can be improvedbythe use ofhumidifiers, trays of water or grouping plants together to form a microclimate; the latter problem may be overcome by using supplementary light, particularly during the winter months when intensity andduration ofnatural light is minimal. Table 1 illustratesthe effect of light levels on survival of interior plants.
Although light is acritical factor influencing plant selection for home conditions, there are various light
levels within the homefrom bright sunny south or southwest windows to less favored north to east facing windows. Begonias and African violets will flower well in the former location during the winter months, and prefer the latter orientation duringthe bright, summer months.
When placed in lowlight areas foliage plants exhibit such symptoms as elongation of the growing tip, spindly type growth and smaller new leaves, as well as yellowing and dropping of the lower leaves.
Foliage plants are grown under ideal light, humidity and temperature, which produces a healthy plant in minimum time. To reduce the shock and adapt the plant to interior conditions, the grower has to acclimatize foliage plants prior to sale.
Factors known to be important include production under shade, correct nutrition, reduced water regimes, and use of soil mediathat allow production of extensive root systems. According to Conover*, Under high light . . . plants produce smaller, thicker foliage; stackingof chloroplasts in cells andvertical orientation ofgranawithin chloroplasts. These are preventative mechanisms to prevent injury to cell components from high light intensities, but reduce the ability of plants to produce carbohydrates through photosynthesis. The movement of such a plant to an
*Dr. Charles Conover, CentreDirector, University ofFlorida, AgricultureResearch Centre, Apopka, Florida, U.S.A.
TABLE 1: Foliage plants grouped according to the number of months they will remain in attractive condition under various light intensities.
Light Intensities InFoot Candles* 15-25L 25-50 L50-75 1 75-100 NumberofMonths
Aglaonema
IslandPine
Aspidistra elatior(Syn.Aspidistralurida) CastIron Plant
actinophylla (Syn. Schefflera actinophylla)
amoena
hookerana
sanderana
oxycardium
hastatum
pannduriforme
Philodendronpertusum (BotanicallyMonstera deliciosa) 12 Sansevieria species Snake Plant or Bow String Hemp 12
Syngonium podophyllum (Florists Nephthytis)
Medium Light Requir it
roebelinii
metallica
Kentiafosterjana (Botanically Howeafosterjana)
Nephrolepis bostoniensis Boston Fern
Peperomia obtusifolia 12
Pilea cadierei AluminumPlant 26 32
Philodendron radiatum (Syn. Philodendron dubium)
Philodendron sodiroi 20 36 Scindapsus aureus (Florists pothos) High Light Requirements
Cissus rhombifolia (Syn. Vitis rhombifolia) Grape Ivy 12 Fatshedera lizei 12 Ficus elastica doescheri Variegated Rubber Plant
12 Ficus benjamina exotica
12 Ficus lyrata(Syn. Ficuspandurata) FiddleLeafFig 12 Hedera helix Var. Californiavy 12 Hedera helix Var. Maple Queen Ivy
12 Scindapsus (Syn. Pothos) Var. Marble Queen
12 Spathiphyllum clevelandii
12 Tolmiea menziesii The Piggy-Back Plant
* Based on a 16-hour day
interior location will present problems, because of the plant s compensation point that point at which energy (food) required by the plant in respiration is equal to the amount produced by photosynthesis. A plant grown under high-light intensity has a higher compensation point than it would have grown in heavy shade.
Light acclimatization has been considered to be conversion of a highlight grown plant to the low-light intensities of interior environments. Research at the Agriculture Research Centre, Apopka, has shown that with Ficus benjamina placement under 80 per cent shade for five weeks reduced leaf drop by 50 per cent when plants were subsequently placed under interior conditions.
Shade grown foliage is more efficient indoors, because leaves are thinner and larger, chloroplasts are dispersed within cells and grana have a horizontal orientation. These mechanisms enable shade grown leaves to absorb more of the incoming light energy, which provides for more efficient photosynthesis under low-light conditions.
Since nutrition and water uptake are related to acclimatization, both must be reduced to adapt the plant to the interior conditions, i.e. fertilizer applications are reduced and watering interval lengthened. It should be emphasized that when plants are moved indoorsthe interior environment has a considerable influence on growth: low light results in low photosynthesis, little growth, or up-take of water and nutrients.
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Thus the maintenance program should be adapted to take into account this change in growth pattern.
Water
Of prime importance is the role of water. Over 90 per cent of interior plant failures are due to overwatering. Since temperatures are relatively constant and there is a low rate of transpiration, interior plants require very little water. It is difficult to generalize on how much water a plant requires. The soil should be evenly moist when the plant is watered and with most plants, allowed to dry out between waterings. It is better to err on the side of under-watering than over-watering. Unfortunately, the symptoms of over-watering are similar to those of underwatering: the plant appears to wilt, leaf tips burn or yellow and drop or the whole plant suddenly collapses.
The demand for water byinterior plants will change with an increase in light intensities or temperatures. During higher light periods from March to October, where plants are subject to natural light, increase the water slightly. Water applied should be at room temperature and free of elements at toxic levels. For instance, areas with high levels offluorides can cause leaf damage to Palms.
Underwatering problems are easier to control. Wilt coupledwith an extremely dry soil indicates an increase in water is required. Other symptoms may include drying of interveinal areas but no change in leaf tips.
Fertilizer
As in the case of water, the fertilizer program is directly related to light intensities and hence growth levels. Plants grown in Florida or greenhouses at light levels of 1,000 to 5,000 foot candles grow rapidly and are fertilized on a regular schedule; i.e., every watering for soil-less media, and every two weeks for those in soil
media. When similar plants are placed indoors, great care must be taken not to overfertilize.
Initially because of a relatively high nutrient level in the media, plants should not require any fertilizer for three months unless obvious nitrogen deficiencies occur. Following the initial waiting period, a regular fertilizer program should commence. Plants growing in soil mixes generally require three applications of a 20-2020 soluble fertilizer at the rate of % to 1 teaspoon per gallon of water during high light intensity periods; i.e., during the period March to October inclusive.
Soilless media requires regular applications ofa20-20-20 soluble fertilizer at 5 to 1 teaspoon per gallon ofwater per month duringhigh light periods, and a reduction of the application by 1/3 to 1/2 during the winter months.
Symptoms of overfertilizing are similar to those of overwatering, which makes diagnosis difficult. Review your fertilizer program and if excessive, leach out soluble salts by watering heavily to dissolve salts; then water, and allow to drain to leach out salts. Table 2 indicates many ofthe symptoms and possible related causes that can occur on indoor plants.
Finally, problems caused by insects
and diseases can occur at any time and require prompt attention when diagnosed. New plants should be isolated, since imported plants may be infested with insects that do not become a problem until plants are moved into the hot dry atmosphere of the home. Although plants are regularly sprayed by the growers, the eggs of insects such as spider mites survive and outbreaks can occur when plants are established within a building. Symptoms that are visible to the human eye include webs and occasionally adults; however a magnification glass is required to observe eggs and other stages of the mites development.
Wiping or washing plants with lukewarm water on aregular basis will help eliminate pests such as spider mite, scales, mealy-bugs and aphids. If badly infested, spray with a proprietory (commercial) insecticide product at seven day intervals for two to three weeks.
By using the good maintenance practices discussed above, fungal disease problems such as stem and root rots are minimized on indoor plants.
P.J. Tucker is with the Grounds Department ofthe University of Guelph, and this article is reprintedfrom Notes on Agriculture, December 1979.
TABLE 2: Symptoms of foliage plant problems and possible related causes.
Symptoms on leaves and/or stems
Marginal chlorosis
Interveinal chlorosis
Round chlorotic spots
Chlorosis ofleaftips or margin
Possibly affected by
Excessive fertilizer in the soil mix
Infestation of mites
Chemical burn (phytotoxicity)
Low air temperature
Infestation of mites
Chemical burn
Disease organisms
Chemical
Excessive fertilizer in the soil mix (high soluble salts)
High or low air temperature
Lack ofwater in soil mix
Low relative humidity
Infestation of mites
Chemical
Continued nextpage
Necrotic spots (dead areas)
Necrosis along and between
margins
Unusually small leaves
Very long petiole (leafstem)
Very short petiole
Longand narrow leaf blade
Short leafblade
Very thick leaf blade
Leaves splitting along margins
Leaves cup-shaped
Loss of leaves
Stunting of stem tips
Wiltingof leaves and/or stems
Dyingof stem tips
Lossof lower buds and flowerson
Cold water applied to the leaves
Chemical
High sunlit
Low air and low water temperature
Chemical
Low light level andlow relative humidity
Chemical
Infestation ofmites
Low light level
High light level
Low light level
High light level
High light level
Chemical
Infestation of mites
Alternating periods of low and high levels ofwater in the soil mix
Chemical
Nutritional disorder
Infestation of aphids
Chemical
Excessive fertilizer in the soil mix
Plants moved from high to low light areas
Plants held in shipping containers for too long
Low air temperature
Low relative humidity
Low aeration in the soil mix
Infestation of mites
Chemicals
Alternating periods oflow and high levels ofwater in the soil mix
Infestation ofmites
Chemical
Excessive fertilizer in the soil mix
Low relative humidity
Lack of water in the soil mix
Infestation ofmites
Chemical
Alternating periods of low and high levels ofwaterin foliage plants the soil mix
Low relative humidity
Injury to roots
Chemical
Very thin and weak stems and long space between leaves
Loss ofvariegation in leaves
Stem decay near the soil surface
Low light level
Low light level
Aging in plants
Soil mix drains poorly
Overwatering
Root disease
From: Biamonte, R.L. 1979. Diagnosing plant problems indoors, Foliage Digest 2(5): 12-14.
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Plants for an Eastern Exposure, which receive direct morning sun from sunrise to near midday, upper left: a. Dizygotheca elegantissima (False Aralia); b. Nephrolepis exaltata bosteniensis (Boston Fern); c. Ficus benjamina (Weeping Fig); d. Dracaena reflexa; e. Begonia rex cultivar (Rex Begonia); f. Dryopteris (Fern); g. Cordyline terminalis (Hawaiian Ti); h. Tolmeia menziesii (Piggyback); i. Saintpaulia lonantha (African Violet); j. Polyscias (Ming Aralia); k. Aeschynanthus radicans (Lipstick Vine); I. Sinningia speciosa (Gloxinia); and m. Tradescantia(Wandering Jew).
Plants for a Northern Exposure, which receive the least light, top left: a. Spathiphyllum Clevelandii (Spathe Flower); b. Cissus rhombifolia (Grape Ivy); c. Adiantum (Maidenhair Fern); d. Aglaonema (Chinese Evergreen); e. Philodendron panduiforme (Fiddle-leaf Philodendron); f. Dracaena massangeana (Corn Plant); g. Chamaedorea elegans (Dwarf Parlor Palm); h. Scindapsus aureus (Pothos); i. Dieffenbachia amoena (Dumb Cane); and j. Ficus pumila (Creeping Fig).
Pictures courtesy of Chevron Chemical (Canada) Ltd.
