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Out of the commonplace
Pure earthworm castings can be mixed into the rare with up to 10 parts peat moss for repot- cr e ting or sprinkled on top of potted plants. No otheér fertilizers are necessary.
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A Specializing in \ "%, succulents and unusual tropicals. Indoor bonsai, pots and gift ideas.
1009 Yonge Street (Rosedale subway) Ontario KOM 2CO0 (705) 786-2484
July/Sept. 1981
Volume 8, Number 4 and 5
In this issue
Cover photograph: Dabhlia Eastwood Moonlight photographed by Karl Wimmi
Dabhlias: from Wildflowers to Superstars/5
An Introduction to Lilies/8
Civic Garden Centre Programme/11
Raised Wooden Planter/17
Now is the Time/21
Horticultural Advisory Committee
Gerda Ferrington, Hal Price, Ken Reeves, Otto Richter, William Rock, Laurie Scullin
Executive Director: Clive E. Goodwin
Editor: Fredrik Kirby
Advertising: Shirley Kirby (416) 226-0996
-Graphicsand Printing Thorn Press Limited, Toronto
General lnformatlon
ISSN 0380-1470
Trellisis publishedin the months of January, March, May, July, September, and November and distributed on or about the 15th of the month previous by the Civic Garden Centre, 777 Lawrence Avenue East, Don Mills, Ontario M3C 1P2. Telephone: (416) 445-1552. The Centreis locatedin Edwards Gardens, at Leslie Street and Lawrence Avenue East, the geographical centre of Metropohtan Toronto. Itis a non-profit gardening and floral arts information organization with open membership. Subscriptions to Trellis are only available through Centre membership (10 per year). Opinions expressed within do not necessarily reflect those of the Centre.
You can enjoy all these benefits when you subscribe to TRELLIS horticulture and gardening magazine.
You become a member of The Civic Garden Centre. You will receive special members rates on all courses. You receive TRELLIS by mail every two months. It contains timely articles by outstanding authors; how-to-stories and seasonal suggestions; news of events and courses held at The Civic Garden Centre.
4. You may register for craftcourses, see specialshows, hear qualified speakers.
5. You can borrow free from over4,000 gardening books.
6. You SAVE 10% on purchases over $2.00 at the Garden and Book Shops.
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DAHLILAS: from Wildflowers
foSuperstars
By Karl Wimmi
Dahlias are native to the high mountain region of Mexico and Guatemala occurring up to 5500 feet in elevation. As long ago as 1570, nearly perfect double Dahlias were grown in Mexican gardens. This is not so surprising though, because the Aztecs were highly skilled in the art of horticulture. The Dahlia was known to the Aztecs as Cocoxichitla meaning hollow pipes or water tubes . This refers to the Dahlias hollow stems which [ believe were used in Aztec culture for the transport of water.
In 1789 the plants were sent by Vincenza Cervantes, Director of the Mexico City Botanical Garden to Abbe Jose Cavanilles, Director of the Madrid Botanical Garden. It was Abbe Cavanilles who gave the genus the name Dahlia, in 1791, in honour of Dr. Andrew Dahl, a Swedish botanist and pupil of Linnaeus.
The great Dahlia craze began in Europe in about 1820, with the first exchanges being made between England and Germany. In 1825 approximately 60 varieties were cultivated, and by 1836 there were over 700 varieties listed. By the end of the nineteenth century there were Dahlias of all shapes and colours, except the one colour which eludes hybridizers to this day blue.
In botanical reference books the common garden Dabhlia is referred to as Dabhlia pinnata, Dahlia coccinea or Dahlia rosea. In 1829 it was proposed that these three species should be united under the single name Dahlia variabilis. Dahlia juarezii, the parent of today s Cactus Dahlia, was named
after the first president of Mexico. Botanists have experienced some difficulty in the classification of the genus because of the large number of hybrids, which, through so many crosses, have obliterated all traces of their origin.
The Cultivation of Dahlias:
Once the tubers have been planted, it would be difficult to fail with Dahlias, no matter how little knowledge of gardening one has. Dahlias require an abundance of light and sun and should never be planted under trees. If planted in an unsuitable location, they will become leggy and produce inferior flowers. The ideal soil for growing Dabhlias is a fibrous clayloam, but Dahlias can grow in sandy or poor quality soil. The preparation of the soil is very important. It should be well-drained and porous. The soil can be improved by adding wellrotted manure or composted material. The beds should be dug-over in the autumn and left in heavy clumps so
Dahlia Zest photographed by Karl Wimmi
that the winter frost will give a fine textured soil.
Just before planting in spring, a well balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 can be incorporated in the beds (4 ounces to the square yard). Planting should begin when all danger of frost is past. Planting distances vary according to the type of plants: 3 feet for the large-flowered ones, 2 1/2 feet for the mediums, and 2 feet for the small-flowered cultivars. Planting depth will generally be 6-8 inches. It is extremely important to place the supporting stake in position at planting time, thus avoiding the risk of damaging the tubers. Once the new growth has reached a height of 12 inches, the top should be pinched. For the large and giant flowered cultivars, pinching at two pairs of leaves will secure four laterals. Medium types are pinched at three pairs and smalls at four pairs of leaves. Miniature pom-pom and ball cultivars need no pinching since they are self-branching.
During the growing season, a light hoeing should be done once a week to remove the weeds and keep the soil open. Hoeing should be stopped by late July because the very fine feeder roots will be very close to the surface of the soil. A light mulch at this time will benefit the plants. The Dahlia is a heavy feeder and also revels in warmth and moisture; thus it should not lack water and the soil should be moist at all times.
Pests
Sometime during the growing season the plants will most probably be attacked by pests. The most common of these pests will be cutworms, aphids, earwig, red spider and slugs. Cutworms are most damaging to young Dabhlias, chewing the plants at ground level. They are best controlled by stomach poison. Aphids are sucking insects which multiply at an amazing rate. At the first sign of infection,
a regular spraying program should begin. A systemic insecticide will also keep a tight control on the problem. The common earwig is a nocturnal feeder which can be very damaging to Dabhlias, especially late in the season when the flowers are developing. By chewing a hole in the developing flower bud, it will render the bloom worthless for showing. The oldfashioned method of trapping is still the best control method. By using clay flower pots filled with excelsior and placed on top of the supporting canes, the pest can be trapped. The insects can be collected early in the morning and disposed of. Closing the hollow end of canes with putty, thus eliminating a hiding place during the day, will also help. Chemical treatment of the soil around the plants is often successful. The biggest infestations of red spider mites usually occur during hot dry summers. The mites live and breed on the underside of the leaves where they suck the sap from the plant. The greyish-brown bleaching of the leaves shows the presence of the mites in a web-like protective covering. This pest is best controlled by spraying the underside of the leaves with the appropriate chemicals or by thoroughly hosing the underside of the leaves. A slug is a slimy 3/4 inch long snail-type pest.
Dahlia Klankstad photographed by Karl Wimmi
Effective control of slugs is readily available by placing metaldehyde pellets on the soil around the plants.
Showing Dahlias
One day prior to the show you should select the blooms which are ready to be exhibited. Before the blooms are cut the plants should be well-watered, and cutting should occur 10-12 hours before judging time.
To retain the freshness of the blooms, special care should be taken when cutting. Carry a bucket to the blooms so that each flower can immediately be placed in water. By making a second slanted cut on the stem underwater, air pockets will be eliminated from the stem and will keep the blooms firm and fresh.
Lifting and Storing the Tubers:
After the frost has blackened the plants, remove all top growth and lift the tubers with a fork. Label each clump as soon as it is lifted. Turn the tubers on their side and air dry them for a few hours. Trim off all damaged tubers and dust with powdered sulphur. Store tubers in boxes approximately 8 inches deep, in a mixture of one part soil, one part peatmoss and one part sand. Place two inches of the mixture on the bottom of the box before the tubers are put in and then cover them with the firmly packed soil mixture to the top of the box. The ideal storing temperature is 40°F (4°C). Check the tubers during storage and discard any which have developed any mould or rot.
Karl Wimmi is Assistant Horticulturist, Department of Botany, The University of Toronto, and an active member of the Canadian Chrysanthemum and Dahlia Society.
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Mini Rose Nursery
Specializing in Miniature Roses
For 1981 Listing write Florence Gahagan
P.O. Box 873, Guelph, Ontario N1H 6M6
Pine Ridge Nurseries
Home ofall yourgardening needs SPECIALIZING in:
@ Geraniums over 100 varieties (zonal, novelties, regals, ivies, scented, fancy leaved, miniatures.)
® Herbs
® Fuschias (over 30 varieties)
® Perennials
® Annuals
® Tropicals
® Trees and Shrubs
® Roses
® Evergreens
We care about your gardening problems. Come and see us at our unique Garden Centre and Greenhouses. =
An Introduction toZé w
by Charles Robinson
Many amateur gardeners are under the impression that lilies are a difficult subject for the garden. This is definitely not so. Soils that will grow good perennials or good vegetables will also grow lilies to perfection. The lily s popularity was assured when gardeners realized its potential as a garden subject, its adaptability to a wide variety of soils, and its tremendous genetic potential for its improvement in colour, size, and type by hybridization.
It is not generally recognized that Ontario, and more particularly Southern Ontario, is one of the leading regions of the world for the culture, exhibition and hybridizing of garden lilies.
Lilies highlight and accentuate the beauty of both the garden and the home. The many varieties and types now available make it possible for every nook and cranny, whether in full sun or shade, to be a splendid splash of colour and a delight for everyone. Many amateurs regard lilies as being status plants which give every garden a most distinctive appearance. And lilies are most versatile. If you have a small sunny corner with a soil not too rich, a few bulbs of Lilium pumilum, a native of the Siberian Steppes, will excite everyone with their dazzling scarlet Turk s Cap flowers. On the other hand, if the location is partially shaded, the Golden-rayed lily of Japan, with its huge and exquisitely beautiful blooms of white, crimson, or gold would indeed lend the garden a touch of class. And in between is a multitude, both species and varieties, from one foot to upwards to six feet, and with a colour range from the
purest white through cream, pink, lilac and rose, to yellow, orange, apricot, scarlet and the darkest blackred. There is also a host of the most desirable pastel shades.
Today, hybrid lilies have, to a great extent, replaced the older types found in gardens of, say, twenty-five years ago. The newer hybrids have more stamina, greater longevity, are sturdier and certainly far more colourful. They are no longer just garden treasures but have become an integral part of garden plantings and play a special part in the layout of borders and beds.
As with all plants, soils are important, particularly where superior growth is required for exhibition purposes. Basically, what is needed is a well-drained loam any well-drained loam. Where drainage is a problem it can easily be overcome by raising the beds three or four inches. If the bulbs are planted in small groups in the perennial border the bulbs can be planted quite near the soil surface and then covered with about four inches of good loam. Many garden lilies have stem roots roots located just above the bulb and which can be best described as feeder roots. Hence, where beds or spot plantings have to be raised it is a good practice to enrich the soil where exhibition specimens are required.
Where the soil is unduly acid or alkaline use lilies which revel in such mediums. The oriental hybrids, which have L. speciosum and L. auratum as their parents, succeed in an acid soil whereas such as the Madonna Lily does best in a medium which is alkaline. However, the amateur gardener should not worry unduly
about such matters, because the modern lily hybrids, especially the Asiatic types, are tolerant of a wide variety of soil conditions. When a soil is deficient in lime it can quickly by adjusted; where a somewhat more acid medium is desirable the use of peat moss is recommended.
Fertilizers should be used judiciously. A small handful per square yard can be applied in early spring, just before growth begins. If it is deemed necessary a light application can again be given just before flowering, but only half of the amount applied in the spring. This can assist the plants to produce strong healthy bulbs for the following year. Fertilizers high in nitrogen are not desirable. Hence a ratio of 5.10.10 should prove to be beneficial although much will depend on the soil s basic fertility.
Lilies dislike too much water in the root zone area and overwatering can prove disastrous. However, a well drained soil will take good care of this problem. Overhead watering should, wherever possible, be avoided because it has a tendency to create a suitable environment for foliar diseases. When watering becomes necessary a soil drench is the best method to use. As a precautionary measure an occasional spray of Benlate should keep diseases at bay.
The Asiatics are certainly the most popular group of lilies grown in gardens today. The reason is not far to seek: they are extremely hardy, even on the prairies. Available in a wide selection of colours, they flower from late May until the end of August one or two even well into September. The stems are sturdy and quite capable of carrying a heavy load of flowers. These latter can be upfacing (usually of goblet shape), outfacing with a full expanse of colour meeting the eye, or downfacing which many regard as the more artistic form.
Because they vary in height up to four feet and more they will fill any position in the border, the shorter ones in the front, the taller kinds at the rear; but always they make a magnificent show.
As with all lilies, they can be grown singly or in small groups of up to a dozen bulbs of a variety; or two or more varieties can be grown together, making sure that each is a different colour as well as a different time of flowering. By doing so one could have, say, scarlet flowers in May, pink in June, and yellow in July. If the gardener has several such groups there will be a constantly changing panorama of colour throughout the summer.
The trumpet lilies are indeed a magnificent and imposing group well adapted to conditions in Southern Ontario. By comparison, the flowers are huge and can be obtained in every colour to be found in lilies with the exception of red. They are ideal for border or lily bed; the average height being three and one half feet. They can be planted in a nice sheltered spot against the home where a few spikes will make an indelible impression on all who see them. Soil requirements for the trumpets are similar to those of the Asiatics but within somewhat narrower
Lily Promise courtesy Park Seed
limits. A well drained soil with a pH value of 6.0 to 6.6 would be ideal. They are relatively easy to grow and the amateur gardener should have little trouble with them. They flower in July and early August.
The aurelians are another group of splendid garden lilies, some reaching to a height of six feet. They are relative newcomers to gardens and are the result of crossing trumpet lilies with the species Lilium henryi, which, in nature, is found on windswept, sun drenched limestone cliffs of Central China. The foliage is luxuriant, the flowers large, trumpet, broadly flaring or bowl-shaped. They are available in white, cream, yellow, apricot, orange, copper and pink. Like the frumpets, the flowers can be strongly marked on the outside with dark red, while most have conspicuous yellow or light orange throats. Again, like the trumpets, there are no reds. The contrasting colours of the aurelians add a new dimension to the flowers and also to the garden.
The Madonna Lily, L. candidum, is well known to gardeners and is the oldest lily in cultivation, having been grown more than a thousand years before Christ. It is known that the ancient Phoenician traders carried it to many parts of the then known world. It is a lily of limestone areas and a little lime, forked into the soil sometime before planting should prove beneficial. Usually, the Madonna Lily is an easy subject for the amateur and once established it will thrive for many, many years. There are only two hybrids of the Madonna Lily available at present, L. x testaceum and L. x June Fragrance.
The martagon lilies are an interesting and highly decorative group, although not as widely known as those already mentioned. The species is a native of Europe and is found in many forms which range from the
Atlantic eastwards to Siberia. They requirea little time to adapt to a new location. They have considerable colour variation, from the purest white, through pink, flesh, deep rose pink to the darkest wine-red. Although the individual florets are small, a good spike will really fill the eye . L. martagon and its varieties album and cattaniae can be grown successfully by any amateur and there are many hybrids with excellent and varied colours which can be grown to perfection in Southern Ontario.
The oriental lilies are indeed one of the glories of the flower world. The exotic colours sparkling red, deepest crimson or rich gold contrast strikingly with the glistening white background. The initial expense is far outweighed by the huge and exquisite blooms which appear in July and August. The orientals require a continued page 20
WONDERLAND OF BULBS
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THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE EDWARDS GARDENS
777 Lawrence Ave. East, Don Mills, M3C 1P2
PROGRAMME SCHEDULE SEPTEMBER DECEMBER 1981
PROGRAMME SUBJECT TO CHANGE
New courses and major Centre functions are printed in bold type. See Separate Listing for dates and times of group meetings.
September In the Gallery Flower and Landscape Paintings by Clarice Spencer and Margaret Cochrane.
In the Auditorium Landscape Photography by Stewart Craven (to Oct. 1.).
In the Studios Toronto scenes by Deborah Crowle (to Oct. 4.).
September 12-13 Junior Garden Club Show.
September 16 Fall Gardening Course starts.
September 16 Basic Flower Arranging Course starts.
September 19-20 Foreign Bird Society International Show.
September 21 Chinese Brush Painting Course starts.
September 21 Botanical Art Course starts.
September 21 ~ Mycological Society Fungus Fair.
September 23 Japanese Flower Arranging Course (Beginners) starts.
September 25 Rug Hooking Course starts.
September 26 Terrarium Workshop.
September 26-27 C}almadian Chrysanthemum & Dabhlia Society Early Show.
September 28 Needlepoint for Beginners Course starts.
September 29 Indonesian Cuisine Course starts.
October In the Gallery A Group Show of work by the Willowdale Group of Artists (to Nov. 14).
In Studio 1 Pet Portraits by Pat Copeland : (to Nowv. 4).
October 1 Birdwatching in Fall courses start.
October 4 An Afternoon of Gesneriads: Dr. Hans Wiehler on Gesneriads New to Cultivation . (A joint meeting with the Toronto Gesneriad Society) 2:00 p.m.
October 13 An Initiation into Creative Design Course starts.
October 16-18 CGC Floral Bouquet and House Plant Sale 10:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m.
October 19 Winter Bouquet Workshop I Dried Flowers.
October 24 House Plant Course starts.
October 26 Winter Bouquet Workshop Il Pine Cone Crafts.
Oct. 31 - Nov. 1 Canadian Chrysanthemum & Dahlia Society Late Show.
November
November 2
November 7-8
November 9
November 9
November 9
November 10
November 15
November 25
November 27-28
In the Gallery Willowdale Group continues to Nov. 14;
Landscapes by Jim Shortt (starts Nov. 19, to Dec. 13).
In the Studios Flower Photographs by Burkhard Nowak (starts Nov. 11, to Dec. 13).
Winter Bouquet Workshop IlI Pressed Flowers. Doll Show Under the auspices of the Canadian Heritage Guild for the International Year of the Disabled.
Intermediate Needlepoint Course starts. Bonsai Night: Beginning with Bonsai a special night with the Toronto Bonsai Society. 8:00 p.m.
Winter Bouquet Workshop IV Corn Husk Crafts. Red Cross Blood Donor Clinic. Ontario Porcelain Artists Guild.
Greenhouse Night Mr. George Dalby, Niagara Parks Commissioner. (Joint meeting with the Hobby Greenhouse Group) 8:00 p.m.
Christmas Greens and Sparkle Show and Sale daily, 10:00 a.m. - 4.00 p.m.
FLOWER ARRANGING COURSES
September 16
September 23
BASIC FLOWER ARRANGING 6 week course on Wednesdays, 1:30 p.m. or 8:00 p.m. This course offers the beginner principles and elements of good design in flower arranging.
Fee: $20.00 members.
JAPANESE FLOWER ARRANGING BEGINNERS
3 week course on Wednesday, 10:00 a.m. -3:00 p.m. Mrs. Kadoguchi, renowned Sensei of the lkenobo School, will again give this very popular course. Branches and flowers will be provided for approximately $2.50 a day.
Fee: $20.00 members.
October 13
AN INITIATION INTO CREATIVE DESIGN for the Flower Arranger 3 workshops from 10:00 a.m. -3:00 p.m. An introduction to the contemporary concepts of floral design, for those wishing to extend their skills beyond the level of the Basic course.
Fee: $20.00 members.
Planning a meeting, seminar, wedding, luncheon, dinner party?
Choose one of several attractive meeting rooms at the Civic Garden Centre for groups of from 20 to 450. Reserve early by calling the Civic Garden Centre at 445-1552.
WINTER BOUQUET WORKSHOPS
October 19
October 26
November 2
November 9
DRIED FLOWERS
PINE CONE CRAFTS
PRESSED FLOWERS
CORN HUSK CRAFTS
Workshops are at 1:30 or 7:30 p.m. with Mrs. Eileen Brooks. Fee: $3.00 per session members, $3.50 nonmembers. 4 sessions: $11.00 members, $13.00 nonmembers.
WORKSHOPS AND COURSES
REGISTRATION IS REQUIRED FOR ALL CLASSES AND WORKSHOPS
the form provided on p. 15 and mail proper remittance
Please use WE REGRET NO CONFIRMATION OF REGISTRATION CAN BE SENT
September 16 YOUR GARDEN IN FALL Instructor Mr. Hal Price.
September 21
September 21 Two week course on Wednesdays at 8:00. A basic course on the things a gardener should do to prepare the garden for the winter and to assure the best resultsnext year.
Fee: $7.00 members, $9.00 non-members.
CHINESE BRUSH PAINTING Instructors Mrs. Moira Mudie and Patti Snell. 10 week course on Mondays at 1:30 p.m. - 3:30 p.m. This course will discuss the philosophy of Chinese Art, have guest artists demonstrating various techniques, practise some calligraphy, and generally introduce the students to the delight and intricacies of this delicate art form. There will be classes for both the absolute beginner and the more experienced artist. The course is also valuable for those wishing to improve their watercolour brush techniques.
Fee: $50.00 members, $55.00 non-members.
BOTANICAL ART Instructor Mrs. Ann Dalton. 6 week course on Mondays, 10:00 a.m. - 2:00 p.m. or 7:30 p.m. - 9:30 p.m. In this section of the series of Botanical Art classes which the Centre has been offering for the last three years, repeat students will be given the opportunity of developing their skills in a medium of their choice. Instruction and guidance will be available in pencil, ink, charcoal, watercolour and oils. New students will be given a series of exercises in basic drawing skills in the media of pencil, charcoal, ink and watercolour.
Fee: $45.00 members, $50.00 non-members.
September 25
September 26
RUG HOOKING
Instructor Mrs. Clarke Sherbo. 8 week course on Fridays at 10:00 a.m. This is one of the Centre s most popular courses. Basic rug hooking will be covered, and there will be instruction in crewel as applied to rug hooking for advanced students. Fee: $32.00 members, $36.00 non-members.
TERRARIUM WORKSHOP Instructor Mrs. Shirley Irvine. Saturday morning from 10:00 a.m. to noon. This workshop will demonstrate the techniques of making and maintaining terraria.
Fee: $4.00 members, $6.00 non-members.
- September 28
NEEDLEPOINT FOR BEGINNERS
Instructor Mrs. Shirley Hartley and Mrs. Judy Crothers. 5 week course on Mondays at 1:00 p.m. or 8:00 p.m. In this course a sampler will be worked, and students will be taught a wide range of techniques.
Fee: $20.00 members, $25.00 non-members.
September 29 ¢
October 1
i
October 24
INDONESIAN CUISINE Instructor Mrs. Gerda Ferrington. 6 week course on Tuesdays at 8:00 p.m. This course will cover the basics of Indonesian cooking. The use of spices and correct preparation of rice will be among the topics discussed and demonstrated. Students will be taught how to produce a reasonable rijsttafel.
Fee: $20.00 members, $25.00 non-members.
BIRDWATCHING IN FALL Instructor Mr. Clive Goodwin. 4 week course on Thursdays at 2:00 p.m. or 8:00 p.m., plus two field trips. This course for the beginner birder covers the what, where and how of bird watching. Particular emphasis will be given to the many later fall and winter birds that will be of interest in the weeks ahead. Good places around Toronto to watch birds will be discussed, and there will be a session on bird feeding and feeders.
Fee: $30.00 members, $35.00 non-members.
HOUSE PLANT CARE Instructor Mr. Hal Price. Six week course on Saturdays at 10:00 a.m. A course in the basic care and maintenance of house plants, with emphasis on the practical.
Fee: $10.00 members, $12.00 non-members.
November 9
INTERMEDIATE NEEDLEPOINT Instructor Mrs. * J.E. Hartley. 5 week course on Mondays at 1:00 p.m. This course is for those who have completed the Beginners course.
Fee: $20.00 members, $25.00 non-members.
GROUP AND SPECIALTY GROUP MEETINGS
* Canadian Chrysanthemum & Dahlia Society: Starts at 8:00 p.m. on: Oct. 22, Dec. 4.
I; Ga;den Therapy: Starts at 1:30 p.m. on: Sept. 9, Oct. 7, Nov. 11, ec. 9.
* Hobby Greenhouse: Starts at 8:00 p.m. on: Sept. 30, Oct. 28, Nov. 25.
* Men s Garden Club: Starts at 8:00 p.m. on: Sept. 1, Oct. 6, Nov. 3, Dec. 8.
* Southern Ontario Orchid Society: 1:00 p.m. - 5:00 p.m. on: Oct. 4, Nov. 1, Dec. 6.
* Toronto Bonsai Society: Starts at 8:00 p.m. on: Sept. 14, Oct. 12, Nov. 9, Dec. 14.
* Toronto Gesneriad Society: Starts at 2:00 p.m. - 4:00 p.m. on: Sept. 13, Oct. 4, Nov. 8, Dec. 13.
* York Rose and Garden Society: Starts at 2:00 p.m. on: Oct. 25, Nov. 22.
* Junior Garden Club Green Thumbs: Starts 9:45 a.m. on: Oct. 3, Nov. 14, Dec. 5.
THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE
777 Lawrence Ave. East, Don Mills, M3C 1P2
NAME (PRINT)
ADDRESS
MEMBERSHIP & PHONE NO.
CITY CODE
PLEASE REGISTER ME FOR THE FOLLOWING EVENTS CLASS OR WORKSHOP TIME FEE Ol would like to take advantage of reduced rates offered members and enclose $10.00 for my annual fee (add $2.50 for each additional family member) Total enclosed
CENTRE PIECES
Holland, Anyone?
If you are interested in a trip to the International Floriade in 1982 which is to be held in Holland, please let us know. We are considering organizing a tour if sufficient interest exists. Options for this spring tour range between a seven-day trip in the $1,300. range and a fifteen-day trip which could include visits to Belgium and the Chelsea Flower Show as well, for approximately $2,700. Both tours could include visits to the Keukenhof and the Aalsmeer flower auctions. If you are interested, please call the office and also let us know the price range that appeals to you.
Questionnaire Results
To everyone who responded to the reader questionnaire, our sincere thanks. Results are presently being tabulated. After we have reached the prize winners by phone, their names will be announced.
Please Remember the House Plant Sale
We also depend on you for the success of the House Plant Sale. This year it runs October 16 to 18. We would be grateful if you could bring any plant donations to the old auditorium between 10:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m. on Thursday, October 15.
Plant Sale a Success
Thanks to the generosity of many of you, our Spring Plant Sale was again an outstanding success. Though we cannot individually thank all those who donated plants and effort, we hope you will accept our gratitude for the part you played.
For the home gardener, building a retaining wall is a practical solution to landscaping a slope.
RAISED PLANTER
An attractive and functional addition to the garden scene
By F. Kershaw
For those homeowners with a small residential lot or a monotonous flat lot who are looking for means to dramatize their residential landscape, read on.
Raised planters, while not new, are now available in a wide array of materials (concrete, brick, natural stone and wood) to meet your landscape needs. Planters, especially the larger, wooden ones the focus of this article have gained wide acceptance not only by the professional landscaper but more importantly, the do-it-yourself, weekend handyman. Functionally, they provide an excellent device to display miniature or dwarf plants often lost in the garden among their taller growing counterparts.
The strong architectural lines of the wood planter with its natural wood tones can impart an interesting form and texture on the garden scene. Should changes in grades be your problem, planters are a good device to create a pleasing, threedimensional effect from one level to another. They also serve equally as well on flat lots to break monotony and provide needed focal points.
On smaller lots where boundary line fencing might look overpowering, several judiciously placed planters will serve nicely to provide privacy and
boundary line definition. Frequently, such planters are made an integral part of a wood deck to economize on space and to enable plant material to be directly associated therein.
Elderly persons and those confined to wheelchairs will find raised planters excellent for growing garden favourite vegetables, roses, bulbs and annuals.
From this observer s point of view, a wood planter of either railway ties or 6 x 6 pressure-treated lumber is probably the easiest to construct, entailing a minimum of time and specialized tools.
To begin with, you will have to pinpoint the exact location and size of your proposed planter. Remember, the welfare of your plants should be of primary concern, recognizing that most plants will do poorly in deep shade, windy locations or areas difficult to water. Passageways, extreme northerly exposures, and locations under the overhang of eaves or shelters are to be avoided.
Be cognizant also of circulation patterns in the area of the planter, as congestion and impediments to natural movement can result in less than desirable social interaction and damaged plants. Micro-climate and site exposure will also have to be studied as to the peculiarities of the site in question.
Specifications for the actual planter will vary according to its proposed uses. A common size for residential use is 7 long by 3 6 wide and 24 -36 high. A minimum depth of 12 is required for plants, with 2'6 for trees and larger shrubs.
HOBBY PLANTERS
All wood planters and fluorescent stands to your specifications. Match your own fumiture. Phone 889-3293
After having determined the design to be followed and material requirements, a trip to your local building supply store should provide all the materials you will require. An equipment rental outlet is certainly worth a visit if you cannot find a friend with a skil-saw, or large drill.
Four by fours and six by sixes can be cut relatively easily with a heavy duty 8-inch skil-saw. Railway ties being commonly 8 deep are generally cut with a chain saw or reciprocating saw. If 3/8 diameter reinforcing rod is to be used to tie together overlapping corners, it is recommended that you initially lay up the structure, noting the position to be drilled for the rods. While many planters are built without corner rods, it is the author s opinion that installing rods is a good practice, especially when one stops to consider the pressure that wet soil can exert. Such holes are normally centred 3 in from each side from the end of the timber for 6 x 6 and drilled out with a 1/2 drill. One could use a drill 1/16 larger than rod size to ensure a tight fit. However, for the amateur doit-yourself builder, a larger hole will allow for more leeway in lining up the rods. Now, overlapping ends (see diagram) are simply nailed into the next lower timber by 8 galvanized nails.
After having pre-cut and drilled the required holes, the next step and one of the most important is to install the first tier of timbers. This footing or base member should be set into firm, level ground, not subject to easy shifting. Common practice is to bury this timber or tie from one-half to twothirds of its thickness, with the soil tamped firmly around the base. This free-floating style will enable you to dismantle your planter should conditions warrant.
Make sure your corner reinforcing rods can penetrate a minimum of 18
into the ground. Laying-up the remaining timbers is a relatively simple operation, making sure that the predrilled holes are lined up properly and the non-overlapping ends are nailed into place as you proceed. More difficulty may be experienced laying up railway ties due to unevenness and warping which will necessitate a good deal of levelling, aligning and shimming.
In order to guard against soil loss through the joints and to protect roots from toxicity of creosote should new railway ties be used, a 4 to 6 mil polyethylene sheet can be used to line the inside of your planter. Sheets come in 10-foot widths at most building supply centres. To facilitate soil drainage in the planter, 3 of coarse sand or gravel may be placed in the bottom of the planter with holes punched in the polyethylene to allow excess seepage out of the planter. With smaller planters having good base soil drainage, the polyethylene is often omitted on the bottom of the planter.
A good growing medium for most plants contained by planters is a 3:2:1 mix of loam, peat and sand. Compost or manure can further be worked into the mixture. Should acid-loving plants be your choice for planters, then a more acidic soil will be required.
Frank E. Kershaw is Manager of Planning and Development with the Metropolitan Toronto Parks Department.
city gardens
Tropical Plants Sales and Maintenance
lan A. McCallum, B:Sc.(Agriculture) 446-1040 9:00 - 5:00 Monday to Friday
MATERIALS
Lilies from page 10 somewhat acid soil and it is recommended that ample peat moss be added.
Although the caucasian lilies are related, botanically, to the European species they are quite distinct. However, there are only two species available to the amateur; L. monadelphum and L. szovitsianum and these but rarely. Yet both are real beauties, with light yellow flowers, lightly spotted. They are not difficult to grow and are valuable not only for their decorative value but also because they flower early.
The North American lilies are conveniently divided into two groups. (1) The Western American and (2) the Eastern American. It is not advisable for the inexperienced lily grower to attempt the culture of the Western American species. They are natives of the Pacific coastal areas which have a vastly different environment to that of Southern Ontario moderate temperatures, high rainfall and high humidity, conditions which Ontario gardeners cannot possibly simulate. Only the most skilled lily growers attempt to grow these lovely but capricious western natives and not very successfully. Lilium canadense,
the Canada Lily, and L. superbum are both magnificent lilies when well grown and both are natives of Eastern North America. In their native haunts they prefer rather poor soils low, damp meadowlands which tend to dry out in summer. In the garden they are slow to acclimatize and resent disturbance. Although both can be grown in the border, they are actually more suitable for the wild garden. Both are well worth the attention of the keen amateur.
Countless lily enthusiasts are now finding hybridizing an often intensely rewarding experience.
Quite naturally, those who become interested require the names of cultivars to enable them to choose those most suitable for their particular purpose. By far the best source is the annual bulb auction sale held by the Ontario Regional Lily Society. It takes place every October (the next one is Oct. 17, 1981) at the Garden Centre, Royal Botanical Gardens, Burlington. Charles Robinson is active in the Ontario Regional Lily Society.
PRUNING SPECIALIST
All types of trees and shrubs pruned properly
Tree pruning Insured
Willing to barter
Brian Sinclair 762-5828 anytime
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Now isthetime
by Ernest Pope
September 1st - October 31st
LAWNS
September is usually the best month of the year for improving the lawn and sowing grass seed because of the cooler nights, heavy dews and lessened competition from weeds.
The work should be started early in the month so that the grass grows tall enough to require cutting at least once before winter. Partly developed grass has a tendency to smother under the snow cover during the winter.
To just scatter seed over the established grass or a bare surface is a waste of money and good seed. To get effective germination it is necessary to cover the seed with at least a half inch of compost or peat moss, raking it well into the established grass. It is imperative never to let the newly sown seed dry out, and this means using a hose with a fine spray at least daily and on sunny hot days twice daily. Once it has germinated, water can be reduced to three times a week unless there are ample rains.
The very best fertilizer for covering vare spots is milorganite. Merely apply it to the area and to the grass immediately surrounding it. It is amazing how the present grass will fill in these spaces. Apply the milorganite every two weeks until it does so.
No digging or addition of grass seed is required. The writer has used this method most effectively in recent years.
DUTCH BULBS
Ball-Superior Ltd., probably Canada s largest seed and plant supplier to commercial growers, has this to say in its fall bulb order list.
This year all our bulbs are defying the trends and are down substantially in price. This has been due to the duties being dropped and to favourable conditions in Holland .
This trend should permeate through to retail suppliers making this an especially attractive year to plant bulbs and renew worn out plantings.
Although most Dutch bulbs do not become available at retail outlets until mid September, varieties such as daffodils, hyacinths, crocus and most of the miniature species root more readily planted outdoors, while the soil is still warm, usually by October 1st.
THE PLANTHOUSE
An Indoor Umbrella
Terrarium
e Safeguard houseplants without watering while on vacation
® Propagate seedlings and cuttings
e [solate sick plants
The Planthouse opens and closes like an umbrella.
Available in 24 , 30 and 36 sizes at
The TRELLIS Shop
The Civic Garden Centre
Tulips are best planted between October 15th and November 15th. If you are planning to force some indoors to flower in February, our coldest month, then they should be potted up by October 1st to allow twelve weeks for rooting in a cool dark place. They can then be brought into the light and warmth for forcing which usually takes about three weeks.
FALL PLANNING AND PLANTING
Many gardeners plan their summer gardens in May but the ideal time to do so is in October.
Firstly, because it is the best month to plant many perennials, as well as trees and shrubs, especially those that bloom in early spring.
In October successes and disappointments are still fresh in our minds.
The fall is also the ideal time to make changes and improvements in our garden plans for next season, and
International Orchid Centre EXOTIC ORCHID PLANTS
Potting media and accessories
(416) 961-73351098 Yonge Street, Toronto
to build up and enrich the soil in the flower and vegetable beds. Most of us who depend on compost produced from our own plants and vegetative matter, find that we seldom have enough to fill the need.
Barnyard manure, as well as good top soil, are difficult to obtain and both of them, if available, are usually loaded with weed seeds. However, a good substitute is mushroom compost which is made up of rotted horse manure and light loam. It is usually weed free because the seed has been destroyed by the high temperature created by the fresh manure that is placed in the mushroom beds each fall.
The mushroom compost of the previous season is dug out of the spent spawning beds and sold commercially to home gardeners. While some nourishment has been extracted by the previously growing mushrooms, nevertheless it is still very useful in the garden being full of
humus. It is lighter than loam and is ideal mixed into the garden for breaking up the soil. It is more beneficial than peat moss because it has fertilizing elements not contained in the latter.
It is also excellent for hilling up rose bushes in the fall.
In the Metro area mushroom compost can be ordered from Paterson Garden Supplies Ltd., 4040 Sheppard Ave. East, Agincourt, Ontario. It should be kept in mind that most commercial fertilizers with a few organic exceptions, like bonemeal, are only good for the current growing season in which they are applied. They do nothing to improve the humus and water holding capacity of the soil.
WAINS FLORIST LTD.
The closing of this old established nursery is a great loss to the horticultural community. They were one of the few retailers who still grew their own annuals and house plants.
Soaring property values, higher taxes and heating costs have made it very difficult for nurserymen to carry on when they are better off selling their properties and investing the funds at current high interest rates.
GERANIUM CUTTINGS
The first half of September is an ideal time to take cuttings to be carried over indoors during the winter. Don' t use the older woody stems. Take the younger shoots often found at the base of the plant, or invariably at the top, although the latter usually means removing flower stems that are just developing into nice flowers. Root the cuttings in a 50-50 mixture of peat moss and coarse sand. Perlite or vermiculite can be substituted for the sand. A good place to root them would be under lights in a cool basement or outdoors under high shade. The big
problem is usually the rotting of the cutting base prior to rooting known as black leg . This can be largely eliminated by watering them with captan, benomyl or some other fungicide when placing them in the medium. After the cuttings have been well rooted (about three weeks) they should be transplanted into 4 inch pots and the tip nipped out to encourage branching.
If you want blooms during the winter no further pruning is needed. If you want the plants for planting outdoors in the summer the stem ends should be pruned back until you have at least four main stems. All flower buds should be removed as they appear. Four stems means four times as much bloom as single stem plants.
Emest Pope ison theAdvisory Committeeofthe Civic Garden Centre and an active memberof theMen s Garden Club andNorth Toronto HorticulturalSociety. He contributes regularly to TRELLIS.
PLANT FOODS
Manufacturers of Specialty Plant Foods
BOUNTY6-2-2 STURDY 0-15-14 TRUSTY 686
CHARLES BATEMAN LIMITED
Box489, 67 Rodinea Rd. Unit7 Maple,Ontario, Canada. LOJ 1EO (416)832-2919
