HAMILTON
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and distributors of quality garden plants and craft products
NOW 8 beautiful garden stores to serve you
SCARBOROUGH
1306 Kennedy Rd. South of Highway 401
2500 Barton Street East Parkway Plaza Centennial and Barton St. North of Lawrence Ave. 560-1600 755-5345
ETOBICOKE
MISSISSAUGA
1582 The Queensway 335 Dundas St. E. Between Kipling Ave. East of Highway 10 and Highway 427 West of Cawthra Rd. 255-0725 2717127217
CAMBRIDGE
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561 Hespeler Rd. 55 Yonge Street Highway 24 South of Davis Drive 500 yds. S. of Highway 401 895.2457 621-5281
WHITBY UNIONVILLE
1242 Dundas St. E. No. 7 Highway West of Thickson Rd. East of Woodbine Ave. East of Anderson St. West of Kennedy Rd. 668-7505 297-3330
Open 7 days a week
Keeping Christmas Poinsettia Alive
To hold its bright colour, this plant needs at least three hours of sunlight a day and a temperature of 59 to 65 degrees. Keep it evenly moist. (Water it when you can stick your finger about one inch into the soil before you hit any damp dirt.)
A poinsettia is easy to carry over as a green plant from year to year but making it bloom a second time is
tricky. The long-blooming variety will usually stay bright until spring. But if yours quits early, cut it back and stop watering.
In the spring, cut back the long bloomer, repot, fertilize, and water it thoroughly. Put the poinsettia stump outside for the summer.
In the fall, bring the outdoor plant to a sunny window, but keep it in the dark at night. With a little luck, you ll get the bonus of another year s bloom.
In this issue
Cover photograph:
January 1982
Volume 9, Number 1
Vegetables from Evergreen Farm, Kemptville, Ontario
Photo: Larry Esmonde-White
The Vegetable Site / 5
Welcome to Tom Thompson / 8
Now is the time / 9
Programme January/June 1982
Creating low maintenance landscapes / 17
Making your own terrarium / 20
Horticultural Advisory Committee
Gerda Ferrington, Hal Price, Ken Reeves, Otto Richter, William Rock, Laurie Scullin
Executive Director: Tom Thompson
Editor: Fredrik Kirby
Advertising: Shirley Kirby (416) 226-0996
Graphics and Printing Thorn Press Limited, Toronto
General lnformatnon ISSN 0380-1470
Trellisis publishedin the months of January, March, May, July, September, and November and distributed on or about the 15th of the month previous by the Civic Garden Centre, 777 Lawrence Avenue East, Don Mills, Ontario . M3C 1P2. Telephone: (416) 445-1552. The Centreis locatedin Edwards Gardens, at Leslie Street and Lawrence Avenue East, the geographical centre of Metropohtan Toronto. Itis a non-profit gardening and floral arts information organization with open membership. Subscriptions to Trellis are only available through Centre membership (10 per year). Opinions expressed within do not necessarily reflect those of the Centre.
You can enjoy all these benefits when you subscribe to TRELLIS horticulture and gardening magazine.
You become a member of The Civic Garden Centre. You will receive special members rates on all courses.
3. You receive TRELLIS by mail every two months. It contains timely articles by outstanding authors; how-to-stories and seasonal suggestions; news of events and courses held at The Civic Garden Centre.
4. You may register for craft courses, see specialshows, hear qualified speakers.
5. You can borrow free from over 4,000 gardening books.
6. You SAVE 10% on purchases over $2.00 at the Garden and Book Shops.
TO LEARN MORE CALL 445-1552 AND EXPRESS YOUR AREA OF INTEREST
CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE HOURS
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Saturdays 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.
Sundays and Holidays 1:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m.
Gardening Questions Answered Weekdays 9:00a.m.to 11:00 a.m.
[ wish to subscribe to TRELLIS and become a member of THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE. Enclosed is my cheque for $ made out to THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE, 777 Lawrence Avenue East, Don Mills, Ontario M3C 1P2.
NAME
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POSTAL CODE PHONE
Donations will receive receipt for tax. (Reg. No. 0228114-56-13)
The VEGETABLE SITEA pleasant sight
by Anstace Esmonde-White
The beginning of the new year hails the arrival of seed catalogues. This provides a welcome change of pace after the festive season and a pleasant assurance that the cold weather will eventually end.
Experienced gardeners keep records of the previous year s seed orders. This enables them to delve into the new catalogues knowing which cultivars they particularly want to reorder and those which they will replace.
For the newcomer, however, certain considerations must be taken into account before they expose themselves to the temptations of ordering everything in the book . The coloured photographs and vivid descriptions make all the vegetables irresistable. Some of the more important factors to be considered before selecting seed are discussed below.
The Site
Practically all vegetables require plenty of sunshine, water, good drainage and healthy soil if they are to flourish.
The site for the vegetable garden should have been selected the previous fall and, if possible, the ground well prepared.
It is most helpful if the size of the garden has been measured as this will impose a limit on the number of vege-
tables that can be grown at any one time. This in turn controls your seed shopping spree.
Garden Plan
It is a good idea to draw a plan of your garden making the best use of the space available. While the measurements need not be exact, the space between rows of vegetables should be approximately as follows:
One metre (3 feet) for large growing crops such as the Brassicas (Cabbage tribe), tomatoes, beans, and peas;
One-half metre (18 inches) for smaller crops such as salads, radishes, carrots and beets.
Climatic Requirements
Some plants thrive only in the cool weather associated with spring. Examples are spinach, peas and broad beans.
Others require heat and thrive only after the soil has warmed up. These include beans, tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant. Slow growing plants such as parsnips, leeks and celery require the full growing season and tolerate both heat and cold.
Growing vegetables is generally
Early hot frame.
Photo: Larry Esmonde-White
divided into two categories: directseeding and transplants.
Direct Seeding
These are the crops that are grown by planting the seed directly in the garden. Some are very hardy and can be sown as soon as the ground can be worked. Some are semi-hardy while others are tender and seeded only when the ground is warm and there is no further danger of frost.
Hardy Crops Semi-hardy Tender
Beets Carrots Beans
Lettuce (leaf) Chard Cucumbers
Onions Cress Muskmelon
Parsley Lettuce (head) Okra
Peas Broad Beans Squash
Radish Corn
Spinach
Turnip
Transplants
Transplant is the term applied to certain annual crops which require a longer growing season than prevails in a specific area. Some transplants are very hardy while others are extremely tender.
Experienced gardeners usually prefer to raise their own transplants from seed. This enables them to select from a very wide range of cultivars and to experiment with newly developed hybrids. Growing transplants means starting the seed indoors in a sunny window, a hot frame or greenhouse, or under lights.
Excellent plants can be grown at home when the conditions are favourable. However, for the novice it is often simpler to purchase from a reliable grower, the few plants he will need of each vegetable.
[ suggest that when purchasing transplants the buyer has a seed catalogue handy to check the characteristics of the cultivars being offered. A label tomato is not enough: it must also state Tiny Tim , Sweet 100 and so on.
Transplants include:
Semi-hardy Tender
Globe Artichoke Eggplant
Leeks Pepper
Onions Tomato
Celery Garden Huckleberry
Celeriac Ground Cherry
Cabbage Muskmelons
Cauliflower
Broccoli
Brussels Sprouts
Kohl-rabi
Intercropping
Because not all plants grow at the same rate, a system known as intercropping can make efficient use of all the space available in the garden throughout the full season.
As an example, [ plant rows of spinach between rows of peas. Both are seeded on the same day. The spinach grows much faster and is harvested well before the peas need the space. I also plant head lettuce between each newly set out broccoli, cabbage and pepper. The lettuce matures rapidly and will be harvested well before their neighbours have reached maturity.
Intercropping: peppers and lettuce mature at different times.
Photo: Larry Esmonde-White
Succession Planting
Succession planting is the term used when a second or third crop is planted in a space previously occupied by an early fast maturing crop. For example, the area once used to grow peas and spinach is the ideal location for the late carrots and beets.
Succession planting should be considered when planning the garden and ordering seed. You will realize that in following this practice you will have to order those crops that can be grown one after the other in the same space.
Plant Supports
Certain crops, such as peas and pole beans require a frame or trellis to climb upon. This structure should be included in the overall garden plan and the crop located to the north of the plot where it will not overshadow other garden plants. The frame should be erected prior to sowing the seed.
Unless a bush variety of tomato is selected, a stake or cage should be put in place when the plant is being set out. Be sure to know the growth pattern of the tomato plants you select; the range in types and sizes is very considerable. A healthy, vigorously growing large variety of tomato could easily attain a height of five feet. For this type of plant a cage is the most practical.
Insects and Diseases
Insects and diseases are common problems for all gardeners. During some seasons they are worse than others, but in well maintained healthy gardens they can be kept under control. Disease tolerant or resistant Hybrid cultivars of tomatoes and some other crops are offered in seed catalogues. They are well worth the extra money especially if any disease was noticed the previous year.
Seed Houses
If you are not already on the mailing list of a seed house or two, send away for their catalogues. They are extremely useful to professionals and beginners alike.
Among the best known seed houses in Ontario are:
Dominion Seed House, Georgetown, Ontario, L7G 4A5
Stokes Seeds Limited, Box 10, St. Catharines, Ontario, L2R 6R6
William Dam Seeds, West Flamboro, Ontario, LOR 2KO.
Mrs. Anstace Esmonde-White raises all her own vegetables and fruits at Evergreen Farm near Kemptuille, Ontario.
L VEGETABLE GARDENING
Anstace Esmonde-White
Common-sense advice on the special problems of growing vegetables, herbs and fruit in a cold climate. Illustrated with photographs and drawings.
$12.95 paperback Available at fine bookstores
McGRAW-HILL RYERSON
Welcome to TW. Tom Thompson
The new Executive Director of the Civic Garden Centre is remarkably fitted to the position.
Tom was born and brought up in Toronto. His father was the chief gardener at Casa Loma where Tom lived in the gardener s house until he was eleven years old. When Sir Henry Pellatt came on hard times and left Casa Loma, the Thompsons moved out too.
Brought up part-time in a greenhouse, it was reasonable for Tom to attend the Ontario Agricultural College (now the University of Guelph) and graduate in 1936. He started work as a horticulturist at Mount Pleasant Cemetery and was there from 1936 to 1943 when he joined Cedarvale Tree Experts as Director of Research. He was chiefly engaged in putting on courses and giving instruction of various sorts while helping the boys in the field.
In July 1945 Tom moved to Port Arthur (now Thunder Bay) as Superintendent of Parks and stayed until 1950 when he went to the Community Programs Branch of the Ontario Department of Education as advisor on parks and recreation facilities.
In 1955 his responsibilities increased when he was appointed Commissioner of Parks for Metro Toronto. He was the first employee of a department with very little land and a very small budget. However, in the development of the Regional Park System more than 7,000 acres of
land were acquired. The Parks Department was in charge of the design, construction and maintenance of the parks and responsible to Metro Council. The park system includes the Toronto [sland, Edwards Gardens, The James Gardens and five golf courses.
Tom retired from the Metro Parks Department in 1978 to become General Director of the Metropolitan Zoo on a three-year contract from which he retired June 15, 1981, and came to us as Executive Director on August 15th.
Tom Thompson is an Honorary Member of the Toronto Chapter of Ontario Landscape Architects Association; Life Member of the Municipal Recreational Directors Association and Life Member of the Royal Botanical Gardens, The Ontario and Toronto Field Naturalists. From the Toronto Garden Club he
received the Garden Club Gold Medal for horticultural accomplishment and the Centennial Medal for achievement in agriculture from the Ontario Agricultural College. He holds a Paul Harris Fellowship; is a Director of the Royal Winter Fair Association; and Honorary Director of the Canadian National Exhibition Association.
His knowledge gained by wide experience in Canada has been augmented by travels in Japan, Holland, Denmark, Britain and France.
As we said in the beginning, he is remarkably fitted to the position of Executive Director of the Civic Garden Centre. A warm welcome, Tom, from all members.
Now isthetime
by Ernest Pope
January 1st-February 28th, 1982
IT 'S SEEDING TIME AGAIN
A few well known annuals are slow growing and must be planted early in the new year. Here is a list:
January
Tuberous Begonias (Jan. 1st)
Fibrous Begonias Dwarf (Jan. 10th)
Geraniums (Jan. 1st)
Pansies and Violas (Jan. 1st)
Browallia (Jan. 15th)
February
Fibrous Begonias Tall (Feb. 5th)
Impatiens (Feb. 15th)
Coleus (Feb. 20th)
Gloriosa Daisy (Feb. 20th)
Verbena (Feb. 15th)
This list is primarily a repeat from previous years, but it is here again to help new readers and may jog the memories of older members, who may still be semi-hibernating. Outstanding gardens are the result of year around working and planning, rather than a sudden spurt in May.
SEED CATALOGUES
Some ofthe 1982 catalogues are already available. The catalogue of Stokes Seeds Ltd. in particular, is usually ready in December. It provides
a remarkable amount of information and its packages of seed give complete sowing and growing instructions.
EIGHT OUTSTANDING ANNUALS
1. Blitz Impatiens
The finest new annual in the past ten years. In the writer s opinion it should have been awarded an All America Gold medal instead of the bronze. It was bred by Willem Sterk, a hybridizer with Sluis and Groot, B.V. Holland. For the past 18 years he has worked primarily with Impatiens. This must be his finest achievement.
The size of the flower is 2-2Y/4 inches, and unlike most large flowered impatiens, produces an amazing number of flowers per plant. The colour is a glowing orange scarlet.
The variety is described as dwarf 10-12 inches high in the catalogues. But the writer s experience as with most impatiens, is that the height is a matter of location and quality of soil. For example, planted in three different areas of his garden resulted in three different mature heights. In one bed under a high shade maple tree where there was minor competition
from tree roots, the ultimate attained was 20 . In a second bed under a high shade oak tree with no root interference the peak was 24 . In the third bed, on the north side of a bungalow where there were no trees and the plants had access all day to blue sky overhead, with little or no sunshine, a surprising height of 31 was attained. Nor did these plants need staking. In good soil, it should be used as a background annual.
It is said to have the highest flower to foliage ratio of any impatiens.
The best location seems to be northern and eastern exposures. It is an ideal annual for gardeners, who are going to be away at the cottage during the summer. No staking, no removal of dead flowers, no diseases, no outdoor insects.
2. Little Darling Snapdragon
The best of all snapdragon varieties for cut flower purposes. It blooms steadily from mid June to mid September if the seed pods are not allowed to form.
No other snapdragon will give the same performance. Many varieties give only one set of satisfactory blooms, seed catalogues to the contrary. The flowers are the open faced butterfly or azalea type, and the colours are yellow, white, apricot, pink and garnet red. The seeds are not sold by colour, but only as a mixture. The plants grow to a height of 12 and do not require staking. It is just amazing how the plants can be cut back twice a week for " bouquets and bounce right back the following week with a full set of new blooms.
3. White Cascade Petunia
The most popular petunia on this continent, spectacular in hanging baskets, window boxes or any place it can hang down or trail, and also excellent in garden beds. Very large weather resistant flowers produced in
quantity throughout the season. It is surprising in how many situations where a trailing petunia is called for, that only dwarf varieties are used.
4. Giants of California Petunias
A very old type of single petunias that has been considerably improved in recent years. The heavily ruffled flowers are the largest of any of the species, measuring up to 5 across. The colours are orchid, rose and rose and white bicolors, with delicate netting in the throats.
The new F1 hybrids Can Can mixture is excellent in containers or hanging baskets. Seldom seen in gardens, and even less available in plant nurseries, it can be easily raised from seed sown indoors about March 10th.
5. Nugget Marigolds
Nothing outblooms the nuggets because they are known as mules, and do not form viable seed. The straight colours are yellow, gold, and orange with yellow giving the best results. They can be brought into bloom six weeks after sowing (April 15th) and will continue without letup until cut down by frost. The only problem with this variety is that seed germination averages 50%, so you need to double your seed order to fill in the gaps in your sowings after they have germinated, usually in about 7 to 9 days. Sow seed April 20th.
6. Imperial Blue Pansy
A splendid large flowered hybrid, considered by many to be the finest pansy produced to date. The colour is a light lavender blue, shading to deep violet at the centre, with a small bright yellow eye. A very vigorous grower with excellent long stems for cutting. It produces a remarkable number of blooms per plant.
7. Golden Crown Pansy
This is the largest pure yellow faced F1 hybrid produced to date. Flowers continued page 16
his is your programme for the next 6 months
THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE EDWARDS GARDENS
777 Lawrence Ave. East, Don Mills, M3C 1P2
PROGRAMME SCHEDULE JANUARY - JUNE 1982
PROGRAMME SUBJECT TO CHANGE
New courses and major Centre functions are printed in bold type
See Separate Listing for dates and times of group meetings
January 8 Rug Hooking Course starts
January 11 Botanical Art Course starts
January 11 Needlepoint for Beginners Course starts
January 13 Japanese Flower Arranging Course (Beginners) starts
January 18 Chinese Brush Painting Course starts
January 21 Perennials Course starts
February In the Auditorium Chinese Brush Paintings by P. Visser Snell, (A.0.C.A)
February 3 Care and Feeding of Caged Birds in the Home course starts
February 3 Aquarium Fish and Aquascaping course starts
February 6 lkebana International Show
February 10
February 22
March 1
Gardening With Wildflowers course starts
Intermediate Needlepoint (Stitch your garden) course starts
Botanical Art Course starts
March 2 Educational Seminar I 4:00 p.m.
March 2 Introduction to Creative Design workshop starts
March 3 Japanese Flower Arranging Course (Intermediate) starts
March 6 Home Gardening Course starts
March 9 Educational Seminar II
March 20 Vegetable Garden Workshop
March 28 Ikenobo lkebana Show
April 1 Birdwatching In Spring course starts
April 2 Rug Hooking Show 1-9 p.m.
April 3, 4 Toronto Gesneriad Society Show
April 14 Civic Garden Centre Annual Meeting
April 21-25 Garden Club of Toronto Spring Flower and Garden Show Flowers, Naturally Wed., Thurs., Fri., 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Sat. and Sun. 10-6 p.m.
April 26
Advanced Needlepoint course starts
May 3 Rhododendron Auction
May 3 Winter Bouquet Workshops starts
May 5 Photography Course starts
May 5, 6 Flower Arranging Basic course starts at 1:30 and 8:00 p.m.
May 14 Plant Sale
May 22, 23 Orchid Society Show
May 30 African Violet Show
May 31
June 5
June 6
June 7
4-way Bargello Workshop 10-3 p.m.
Rhododendron Society of Canada Show Toronto Bonsai Society Show
Pulled Thread Workshop 10-3 p.m.
June 22-23 Milne House Flower Show
June 25, 27 Canadian Rose Society Show
WORKSHOPS AND COURSES
REGISTRATION IS REQUIRED FOR ALL CLASSES AND WORKSHOPS
Please use the form provided on page 15 and mail proper remittance
WE REGRET NO CONFIRMATION OF REGISTRATION CAN BE SENT
January 8
RUG HOOKING 8 week course on Fridays at 10:00 a.m.
Instructor: Mrs. Clarke Sherbo. One of the Centre s most popular courses covers basic rug hooking, and for advanced students, instruction in Crewel as applied to rug hooking will be given.
Fee: $32.00 members, $36.00 non-members.
January 11 (also March 1)
January 11
BOTANICAL ART 6 week courses on Mondays at 10:00 a.m.-3:00 p.m. Instructor: Ann Dalton. This class is open to both the beginner and intermediate student. Instruction and guidance will be available in pencil, charcoal, water colour and oils at a number of levels, but with stress on High Realism. Repeat students will be given the opportunity of developing their.skills in a medium of their choice. Students will work from plant and landscape themes and classes will be supplemented with slides of various artists from time to time.
Fee: $45.00 members, $50.00 non-members.
NEEDLEPOINT FOR BEGINNERS 5 week course on Mondays at 1:00 p.m. or 8:00 p.m. Instructor: Mrs. Shirley Hartley. In this course a sampler will be worked, and students will be taught a wide range of techniques.
Fee: $20.00 members, $25.00 non-members.
January 18
January 21
CHINESE BRUSH PAINTING 10 week course on Mondays at 1:30-3.30 p.m. Instructors: Mrs. Moira Mudie and Patti Snell. This course will discuss the philosophy of Chinese Art, have guest artists demonstrating various techniques, practise some calligraphy, and generally introduce the students to the delight and intricacies of this delicate art form. There will be classes for both the absolute beginner and the more experienced artist. This course is also valuable for those wishing to improve their watercolour brush techniques.
Fee: $50.00 members, $55.00 non-members.
PERENNIALS FOR ONTARIO GARDENS 6 week course on Thursdays at 8:00 p.m. Instructor: Mr. Keith Squires. All aspects of perennials will be discussed, and a wide range of hardy perennials reviewed, including many that are of excellent quality but little used.
Fee: $35.00 members, $40.00 non-members.
February 3
February 3
CARE AND FEEDING OF CAGED BIRDS IN THE HOME
4 week course on Wednesdays at 7:30 p.m. Instructor: Dr. Wm. Rapley, Veterinarian in charge of the Animal Health Division of the Metropolitan Zoo. This course will deal with the range of birds available, suitable housing, diet preparation, breeding and health problems.
Fee: $20.00 members, $25.00 non-members.
AQUARIUM FISH AND AQUASCAPING a 4 week course on Wednesdays at 7:30 p.m. Instructor: Elmer Taylor, Curator of Fish at the Metropolitan Tqronto Zoo. The course will deal with a selection of tanks, water quality, fish selection and compatibility, feeding, and the selection and arrangement of aquatic plant material.
Fee: $20.00 members, $25.00 non-members.
February 10
February 22
GARDENING WITH WILDFLOWERS 4 week course on Wednesdays at 8:00 p.m. Instructor: Mr. Frank E. Kershaw. Sources of plants, planting and plant selection and mulching, as well as a session on design and layout are some of the topics to be covered in this new course on an increasingly popular topic.
Fee: $14.00 members, $16.00 non-members.
INTERMEDIATE NEEDLEPOINT 5 week course on Mondays at 1:00 or 8:00 p.m. Instructor: Mrs. Shirley Hartley. This course is for those who have completed the Beginners course.
Fee: $20.00 members, $25.00 non-members.
March 1
March 6
March 20
Second BOTANICAL ART course starts. (see January 11th)
HOME GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS 6 week course on Saturday mornings from 10:00 a.m. to 12 noon.
Instructor: Mr. Hal Price. This course is designed specifically for the beginning gardener. Growing conditions will be covered, as well as vegetables, annuals, perennials, roses and propagation methods.
Fee: $14.00 members, $16.00 non-members.
VEGETABLE GARDEN WORKSHOP one-day workshop, Saturday morning at 10:00 a.m. Instructor: Mr. Tom Thompson. A workshop for everyone who wants pointers on this popular topic.
Fee: Free to all.
April 1
April 26
BIRDWATCHING IN SPRING 4 week course Thursdays at 2.00 p.m. and 7.30 p.m. Instructor: Mr. Clive Goodwin. This course for the beginner birder covers the what, where and how of birdwatching. The ways of identifying birds, the tools of birdwatching and where to look will be discussed.
Fee: $30.00 members, $35.00 non-members
ADVANCED NEEDLEPOINT a 4 week course on Mondays at 1:00 p.m. or 8:00 p.m. Instructor: Mrs. Shirley Hartley. Fee: $20.00 members, $25.00 non-members
May 3
May 5
May 31 and June 7
WINTER BOUQUET DEMONSTRATIONS three lectures on Mondays at 1:30 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. Instructor: Mrs. Eileen Brooks. These lectures will demonstrate the use of plant materials in preparing bouquets, pressed flowers and corn husk crafts and pine cone crafts.
Fee: $3.00 a session or $8.50 for three members, $3.50 a session or $9.50 for three non-members.
PHOTOGRAPHY course a 6 week course on Wednesdays at 8:00 p.m. Instructor: Mr. and Mrs. Powell. Communicating through Photography is the title for their popular course. Equipment, lighting and exposure, colour perception, design and miscellaneous techniques are among the subjects covered.
Fee: $30.00 members, $35.00 non-members
FOUR-WAY BARGELLO AND PULLED THREAD WORKSHOPS. 10:00 a.m.-3:00 p.m. Instructor: Mrs. J.E. Hartley. Students may register for either or both of these needlepoint workshops. Fee: (each workshop) $10.00 members, $12.00 non-members.
FLOWER ARRANGING COURSES
January 13
JAPANESE FLOWER ARRANGING BEGINNERS
3 week course on Wednesdays, 10:00 a.m.-3:00 p.m. Mrs. Kadoguchi, renowned Sensei of the Ikenobo School, will again give this very popular course. Branches and flowers will be provided for approximately $2.50 a day.
Fee: $20.00 members
March 2
March 3
AN INITIATION INTO CREATIVE DESIGN for the Flower Arranger 3 workshops from 10:00 a.m.-3:00 p.m. An introduction to the contemporary concepts of floral design, for those wishing to extend their skills beyond the level of the Basic course.
Fee: $20.00 members
JAPANESE FLOWER ARRANGING INTERMEDIATE
3 week course on Wednesdays, 10:00 a.m.-3:00 p.m. This will be an opportunity for those who have taken the beginners course with Mrs. Kadoguchi to test their acquired skills and ingenuity. Do try to book early as we can only take a limited number of applications.
Fee: $20.00 members
May 5
May 6
BASIC FLOWER ARRANGING 6 week courses on Wednesdays and Thursdays, 1:30 p.m. or 8:00 p.m. These courses offer the beginner principles and elements of good design in flower arranging.
Fee: $20.00 members
GROUP AND SPECIALTY GROUP MEETINGS
* Canadian Chrysanthemum & Dahlia Society: Starts at 8:00 p.m. on: dan. 28, Feb. 25, Mar. 25, Apr. 29, May 27, June 24.
* Garden Therapy: Starts at 1:30 p.m. on: Feb. 10, Mar. 10, Apr. 14, May 12, June 9.
* Hobby Greenhouse: Starts at 8:00 p.m. on: Jan. 27, Feb. 24, Mar. 31, Apr. 28, May 26.
* Men s Garden Club: Starts at 8:00 p.m. on: Jan. 5, Feb. 2, Mar. 2, Apr. 6, May 4, June 1.
* Southern Ontario Orchid Society: 1:00 p.m.-5:00 p.m. on: Jan. 10, Feb. 7, Mar. 7, Apr. 4, May 2.
* Toronto Bonsai Society: Starts at 8:00 p.m. on: Jan. 11, Feb. 8, Mar. 8, Apr. 12, May 10, June 14.
* Toronto Gesneriad Society: Starts at 2:00 p.m.-4:00 p.m. on: Jan. 10, Feb. 14, Mar. 14, May 9, June 6.
* York Rose and Garden Society: Starts at 2:00 p.m. on: Feb. 21, May 2, June 6.
* Junior Garden Club Green Thumbs: Starts 9:45 a.m. on: Jan. 9, Feb. 13, Mar. 13, Apr. 10, May 8, June 12.
THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE
777 Lawrence Ave. East, Don Mills, M3C 1P2
NAME (PRINT) MEMBERSHIP & PHONE NO.
ADDRESS CITY CODE
PLEASE REGISTER ME FOR THE FOLLOWING EVENTS CLASS OR WORKSHOP TIME EEE
Olwould like to take advantage of reduced rates offered members and enclose $10.00 for my annual fee (add $2.50 for each additional family member) Total enclosed
average 3 to 4 . It is considered to be one of the Majestic Giant series, but the seed is sold separately and not included in the Majestic mixtures. It makes an outstanding colour contrast in proximity to Imperial Blue.
Pansies are actually biennials but seem to do better treated as annuals. They abhor hot weather.
8. Blue Salvia Victoria
Blue salvias are becoming increasingly popular. The most floriferous and best to date seems to be the variety Victoria. Because it is only 18 in height, it requires no staking and has more flower spikes per plant. The colour is deep violet or midnight blue. This variety gave a striking bedding performance in 1981 at the Cullen gardens near Whitby. It does well in either full sun or partial shade. Excellent as a cut flower or for flower arrangements.
COLUMNEA EARLY-BIRD (GOLDFISH PLANT)
Columneas are members of the gesneriad family and are mostly trailers, making handsome hanging baskets. Several of these are virtually everblooming, including the best known Early Bird . It has red and yellow flowers that seem to float away from the stem ends, hence the common name. :
It is not only easy to grow using any standard potting mix, but seems to thrive at ordinary household temperatures and humidity. The trailing stems have small pointed leaves, and the flowers grow out of the leaf axils. They will grow and flower in a sunny window, but will also flourish under fluorescent lights. This plant is at its handsome best in a hanging basket, but if you haven t the place for it, it does well on a raised platform under the lights.
At the end of about a year it is natural for the plant to lose leaves,
along the stem joints. The stems should then be cut back vigorously and new growth will start from tle soil level, virtually giving you a new bushier plant. Use the ends of the pruned stems for cuttings and when rooted, plant three to a four-inch pot. This is a very colourful and attractive house plant that will give youa real lift when in bloom.
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Here is a firm that has consistently advertised in Trellis and as such deserves our support and patronage.
1981 was the 25th anniversary since this company was established by Mr. Peter Raab, the president. Now in conjunction with his son Andre, it is one of the largest retail companies of its kind in Canada with eight beautiful garden centres all located in southern Ontario to serve the public.
It has a 400 acre farm near Goodwood, Ontario, where some of the finest nursery plants are produced. They have quality stock at competitive prices.
Trellis could not afford to publish without the support of its advertisers. Turn about is fair play.
EmestPopeis on theAdvisory Committeeofthe Civic Garden Centre and an active memberof the Men s Garden Club and North Toronto Horticultural Society. He contributes regularly o TRELLIS.
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Creating Low Viaintenance Landscapes
by Edward Fife
In the development of low maintenance landscapes the correct choice of plants is extremely important, but more so is an understanding of basic principles which help to build and determine the evolution of such landscapes. In our backyard or in the forest, nature tends toward a state of equilibrium or slow enrichment, in which the energies of the site are used most efficiently. Sunlight, soil quality and plant aggressiveness are prime determinants. If we can evolve gardens which use these three energies efficiently, we.can lower the need for maintenance, saving time and dollars.
To understand this point, let us look at weeds as indicators of excess energy. Weeds are usually annual plants which establish themselves in open or disturbed areas of the garden in an attempt to make the system more productive. Making use of excess space and light, they produce a greater mass of green matter for soil enrichment. If, in our design, we had harnessed this energy, the weed would not have found a niche in which to grow and therefore would not need to be removed.
Let us look more closely at sunlight and two landscapes forests and grasslands which naturally use it efficiently. Summer forests intercept a majority of the sunlight well above the ground. The denser the foliage, the less light is allowed to penetrate to the ground surface and, correspondingly, the fewer plants that can be sustained on the forest floor. An extreme
is the hemlock or other coniferous forest, where the lack of light restricts the growth of most plants except for the odd fern or random grass. Mature northern forests of maple and beech are similar, but with a perennial covering of leaf litter.
As forest density lessens, the amount of undergrowth begins to increase with lower shrubs. With further opening, as in the birch forest, greater light penetration encourages the development of a light understory, with addition of a lush ground layer usually of thick grasses.
These examples show that light can control, reduce or totally remove growth at ground level. Dense forest produces a groundcover of dried leaves which requires very little maintenance. If you take the example one step further, a dense overstory at any level can control penetration and therefore limit growth of plants at ground level. Dense shrubs will do the same. Forsythia, privet, rugosa rose, coralberry, the dense cotoneasters and honeysuckles are excellent plants, which because of their density deter
Fore anscape mown once a year. Innesfree, Millbrook, N.Y.
Photo: Edward Fife example
or totally block the development of lower plants. There is a direct relationship between the success of groundcovers and the overstory.
Groundcovers perform differently. The more open the groundcover, the more important it is to reduce light penetration to restrain most aggressive plants. Conversely, the denser the groundcover, the more light it can afford, in that it is less likely to be affected by the intrusion of other plants, therefore requiring less maintenance. A simple rule of thumb is that open plants (plants you can see through to the soil below) require additional plant material, either above or on the ground level, to prevent the intrusion of weeds.
Since we do not all live in forests, let s look at grasslands which in their refined form are a major component of our residential landscape. Grasslands intercept light nearer the ground surface. In their natural state and on good soils they maintain a height of 3-4 feet (lower if toliniferous) and are both very aggressive and light efficient. In fact, very few plants of the same height can compete. Those which succeed, do so because of their greater density or because they choose soils which are less attractive to grass and therefore restrict its grip. Lupine, comfrey and rhubarb are examples of plants which maintain themselves in sunny grasslands due to their density. These plants are largeleafed, spreading plants which prevent grass and its roots from growing too close to them. Goldenrod and asters approach the problem differently. They slow the invasion of grass by the addition of root toxins to the soil, which deter its development. However, most plants do not try to compete with grass on its own territory. Loosestrife chooses areas which are too wet; daisies, black-eyedsusans, hawkweed and clovers grow in areas where the soil is nitrogen-
poor or disturbed. The only other way a plant can hold its own against grass is by a combination of these factors. This example is at the forest edge, where a combination of height, plant mix and forward motion combine to defeat and push back grasslands, mainly through shading, which ties us into our earlier discussion of light control in the forest.
Again, we see several points which can help us to develop a lower maintenance landscape. Grass is extremely aggressive and most plants can not compete successfully unless they are denser, taller, choose alternative sites or are artificially protected. Maintenance involved is directly related to the aforementioned factors.
The classic English landscape, to which many of our smaller gardens unconsciously allude, is an example of a grass landscape at its best, utilizing to the fullest its aggressiveness and productivity. It rolls over hill and dale endlessly. It is grazed rather than mown. Clean edges and limitations are not a concern.
Grass and large trees are seen to be the landscape, the pasture; where there is a garden, in the sense of flowers and smaller plants, it is protected from the grass by wide drives, terrace stones or garden walls, which form a sharp delineation, isolating the gardens requiring high main-
- Sa
Native plants stronger than grass.
Photo: Edward Fife
tenance from the more aggressive grasses.
Let 's go back grass is a winner but there are ways to stem its tide. Some plants do it individually; others do it in combination, complementing each other to develop new strengths. An example is witch-hazel, a fairly open plant, underplanted with wintercreeper; or the same under an oak canopy with a lighter groundcover of epimedia, foam flower, or even hepatica ground covers which thrive and are competitive in areas of reduced sunlight but which would fail in full sun.
Goutweed, violet, woodruff, all types of small plants, thrive and are stronger than grass where light is limited. Where the overstorey is limited, much of the same effect can be achieved for less dense plants with the use of mulches. Mulches tend to bury weeds, to keep soils moist and cool and to block usable sunlight. Mulches can provide the same quality as a properly-integrated landscape, but require additional time and money.
Soil manipulation is another route by which to generate low-maintenance landscapes. Southern Ontario has a multitude of energetic field flowers which adapt easily and bloom continuously throughout summer and fall. The key to their successful use lies in the construction of a proper habitat. Such landscapes can easily be reproduced if we reduce the inevitable 6 ins. of topsoil and eliminate fertilizers, which if used develop an
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environment encouraging to grass. An intelligent understanding of natural environments and the principles which govern their form is at the core of all low-maintenance landscapes. Sunlight, soil quality and plant aggressiveness are prime determinants which are essential to the creation of a balanced environment. These principles can be easily observed and applied in your own garden, producing a richer, more satisfying environment and one which is easier to maintain.
Edward Fife is Associate Professor, Department of Landscape Architecture,
The University of Toronto
The Illustrated Encyclopedia of Cacti & Succulents
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A comprehensive, well illustrated and at today s prices very reasonably priced volume on Cacti and Succulents.
In all, 426 species are described and illustrated, almost half of them in colour. The first three chapters deal with 218 cacti species and the rest of the book is devoted to other succulents. Introductory sections give a good introduction to succulents generally and there are seven pages of information on growing them. A valuable volume for anyone interested in this intriguing group of plants.
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Making Your Own lerrarium
by Bob Fleming
Many Ontario homes and apartments are too hot and dry during the winter for tropical plants. However, you don t have to live in a wasteland you can plant a terrarium.
A terrarium is a glass container in which plants are grown ina strictly controlled environment. You control the environment to suit the species of plant or plants.
Almost any type of glass container can be used for a terrarium. The opening should be no larger than the planting area so that humidity can be controlled easily. Large containers should have a clear glass cover, while bottles and jars should have loose fitting stoppers. Don t use tinted glass containers.
THE PLANTHOUSE
An Indoor Umbrella Terrarium
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The Planthouse opens.and closes like an umbrella.
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Use clear glass containers
Moisture is the most important factor in a terrarium. Inside this miniature world a cycle of moisture occurs. Moisture evaporates from plant surfaces and the soil, returns to the soil as condensation, and is absorbed by the plants. Ventilation is an important part of the cycle. Ventilation keeps the glass relatively clear for viewing the plants, and allows the condensation to return to the soil. Some light condensation on the container is not objectionable and is an indication that soil moisture levels are satisfactory.
Choose plants that suit the light conditions of the intended location. Avoid bright, sunny locations and locations near sources of heat. These conditions can cause rapid temperature changes and plant injury. Artificial lighting can also be used. A reading lamp, small fluorescent fixture, or grow lamp will provide sufficient light.
Terrariums do not have drainage holes to channel away surplus water, so special preparation is required. A layer of drainage material below the soil is absolutely necessary. Small pebbles, crushed stone, coarse aquarium gravel, or crushed clay pots should be placed on the bottom of the container.
A thin layer of crushed charcoal keeps the soil sweet and prevents the unpleasant odors of decomposing organic material. A thin layer of sphagnum moss, over the charcoal, prevents the soil from sifting down and clogging the drainage material.
The soil mixture should contain 1 part coarse sharp sand or perlite, 1 part leafmold or peat, and 1/2 or 2 parts fibrous loam or good quality potting soil. In shallow baking pans, sterilize the mixture in a 100 C (225 F) oven for 30 minutes. Commercial terrarium mixtures are available to save the time and trouble of preparation.
Planting the Terrarium
Step 1. Place the coarse drainage material in the container. Create contours in large containers to add interest. At least 2 to 3 centimetres (1 inch) of drainage material is required for large containers.
Step 2. Sprinkle charcoal chips on top of the drainage layer. If desired, a thin layer of sphagnum moss can be spread over thecharcoal.
Step 3. Add the soil gently. The depth should be 1/2 to 2 times the depth of the drainage material. Spread the soil to accent the contours. Use moderately dry soil so that the soil won't stick to the glass.
Step 4. Select suitable small plants, and isolate them for two to three weeks to make sure they are insect and disease-free.
Step 5. Arrange young plants in groupings before planting. Scoop out shallow planting holes in the soil.
Step 6. Remove damaged plant parts, and reduce the size of the root ball to fit the opening of the container, if necessary. Place the roots in the prepared hole, and cover with soil. Firm the soil gently with a cork tamper.
Care
After planting, a small amount of water may be added. Use the
condensation on the sides of the container as a guide to watering, aeration, and ventilation. If the side of the container becomes foggy with condensation, remove the stopper or glass cover until all of the condensation evaporates, then replace the lid.
Check periodically for diseased plants or plant parts. Remove diseased portions immediately using a razor blade tool. Remove all unnecessary plant debris.
Insects should not be a problem if
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plants were quarantined, and the soil was sterilized before planting. If required, a mild insecticide can be used.
Terrariums won' t last forever. Frequent replanting may be necessary depending on plants selected, container size, light conditions, insects and disease.
Suitable Plants
The humid atmosphere and nearideal growing conditions of a terrarium make it possible to plant cuttings (without roots). In small containers, the following plants can be planted as cuttings: African violet, Cape primrose, peperomia, English ivy, wandering Jew, spider plant, German ivy, Swedish ivy, prayer plant, dwarf ferns, flame violets, fittonia, columnea, and dwarf forms
of jadeplant. Moss fern, maidenhair fern, baby' s tears, and creeping fig can also be used in small containers, but must be planted with roots.
For medium and large containers, try crotons, Chinese evergreen, dracaena, prayer plant, bromeliads, dieffenbachia, coleus, nephrolepis fern, palms, calathea, anthurium, ficus, aucuba and some types of jade plants. Philodendron, scindapsus, peperomia, begonias, and sanseveiria can be started as cuttings.
Plants suggested for large containers can also be used in smaller ones, but they will outgrow the container quickly.
Bob Fleming is with the Horticultural Research Institute of Ontario at Vineland.
The greenhouse makes an attractive addition to the house. It is also very productive, supplying fresh salad vegetables all winter long. The solar storage below the greenhouse makes it possible to collect sunlight in the daytime for use in the greenhouse at night. The extra heat can also be used to supplement heat inside the house proper.
Photo courtesy The University of Guelph
Plants for an Eastern Exposure, which receive direct morning sun from sunrise to near midday, upper left: a. Dizygotheca elegantissima (False Aralia); b. Nephrolepis exaltata bosteniensis (Boston Fern); c. Ficus benjamina (Weeping Fig); d. Dracaena reflexa;, e. Begonia rex cultivar (Rex Begonia); f. Dryopteris (Fern); g. Cordyline terminalis (Hawaiian Ti); h. Tolmeia menziesii (Piggyback); i. Saintpaulia lonantha (African Violet); j. Polyscias (Ming Aralia); k. Aeschynanthus radicans (Lipstick Vine); I. Sinningia speciosa (Gloxinia); and m. Tradescantia (Wandering Jew).
Plants for a Northern Exposure, which receive the least light, top left: a. Spathiphyllum Clevelandii (Spathe Flower); b. Cissus rhombifolia (Grape lvy); c. Adiantum (Maidenhair Fern); d. Aglaonema (Chinese Evergreen); e. Philodendron panduiforme (Fiddle-leaf Philodendron); f. Dracaena massangeana (Corn Plant); g. Chamaedorea elegans (Dwarf Parlor Palm); h. Scindapsus aureus (Pothos); i. Dieffenbachia amoena (Dumb Cane); and j. Ficus pumila (Creeping Fig).
Pictures courtesy of Chevron Chemical (Canada) Ltd.
