2016 Tourism Campbell River & Region Discovery Guide

QUADRA ISLAND, CORTES ISLAND, SAYWARD, STRATHCONA & NOOTKA SOUND DISCOVERY GUIDE

Contents ABOUT Campbell River & Region Getting Here Regional Maps

4 6 8

BEAUTIFUL SURROUNDINGS Natural Wonders Wildlife Watching

10 12

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES Biking Climbing Golfing Hiking Snow Sports

14 16 18 20 22

WATER RECREATION Fly Fishing Sport Fishing Paddling Cruising Diving

24 26 28 30 32

CULINARY, ART & CULTURE Culinary Delights Art, Culture & Heritage A First Nations Welcome Family-Friendly Fun Community Events

34 36 40 42 44

ACCOMMODATIONS Where To Stay

46

Cover Image: Eiko Jones Photography Table of Contents Image: Boomer Jerritt

CAMPBELL RIVER & REGION DISCOVERY GUIDE | 3

Campbell River Beautifully set between the splendour of Strathcona Park to the west and the pristine Discovery Islands to the east, the seaside metropolis of Campbell River is the gateway to northern Vancouver Island. Nestled along the southern shores of the Discovery Passage, the long famed “Salmon Capital of the World” boasts a host of natural wonders and cultural attractions waiting to be explored. With all the services and amenities you would find in the big city, it’s set in the natural beauty of the West Coast waterfront. Campbell River boasts authentic adventure experiences, eclectic shopping, and gorgeous world-class accommodation all accessed by land, sea and air.

Strathcona Park The first Provincial Park to be established in British Columbia is also one of its most majestic. This near 2500 square km mass of wilderness spreads across central Vancouver Island and is easily accessible from Campbell River, west on Highway 28. Strathcona Provincial Park is home to the Golden Hinde, the Island’s tallest mountain, measuring 2198m, as well as Della Falls, the highest waterfall in all of Canada at 440m. The park includes wellestablished campgrounds as well as backpacking and cross-country ski trails maintained by Parks BC. The nearby Strathcona Park Lodge and Outdoor Education Centre provide a range of programs and experiences for the whole family.

Quadra, Cortes, & the Discovery Islands Quadra Island is the largest and most populated of the magnificent Discovery Islands, just ten minutes from downtown Campbell River. Quadra is celebrated for its gorgeous coastal scenery and unique local culture, featuring Quathiaski Cove as its primary port and commercial hub, and Heriot Bay as your ferry terminal access to neighbouring Cortes Island. Cortes is the terminus of BC ferries access to the Discovery Islands, but a myriad of other islands, sheltered coves, deep inlets and marine parks lay just beyond its shores.

Sayward The Village of Sayward is a small logging town with a big heart and growing tourism sector that includes caving, kayaking, hiking, whale watching, and wildlife viewing. Sayward is also the closest community to northern Vancouver Island’s destination ski resort, Mount Cain, just 25km from the Sayward junction at Highway 19.

Nootka Sound The rugged marine paradise of Nootka Sound showcases Vancouver Island in some of its most primal beauty. Accessed via the small town of Gold River at the end of Highway 28, Nootka Sound is a complex inlet reaching from the interior of Vancouver Island toward the open Pacific. Neighbouring Tahsis, Esperanza, Zeballos, and Kyuquot provide access to some of the world’s most premier sea kayaking and sport fishing opportunities.

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ELK FALLS SUSPENSION BRIDGE, PHOTO BY BOOMER JERRITT

Getting Here Campbell River and region is located in the geographic heart of Vancouver Island. It includes the City of Campbell River on the east coast, the neighboring Discovery Islands and the vast tracts of wilderness that stretch west through Strathcona Provincial Park to Gold River, Tahsis and Zeballos on the Pacific coast. Campbell River is approximately 265 km/165 miles north of Victoria and 238 km/149 miles south of Port Hardy. The Island itself sits offshore from the southwest coast of Canada just north of Washington state and across the Salish Sea from Vancouver, the largest city in the province of British Columbia.

BY FERRIES Most visitors arrive on the Island by one of three ferry services.

BC Ferries offers daily car and foot passenger sailings from two mainland terminals – Tsawwassen and Horseshoe Bay – south and north of Vancouver respectively. Those heading direct for Campbell River are advised to book passage to one of Nanaimo’s two ferry terminals – Duke Point and Departure Bay. Our region is a pleasant 90-minute drive north of Nanaimo on a modern multi-lane highway.

American visitors have two options. Black Ball Ferries’ MV Coho sails from Port Angeles on Washington state’s Olympic Peninsula direct into Victoria’s Inner Harbour. Washington State Ferries offers seasonal spring-to-fall service to Sidney, south of Victoria, from Anacortes and the San Juan Islands. The Victoria Clipper is a passenger-only fast ferry connecting Seattle to Victoria.

Campbell River is also a natural stopover for those heading to and from Port Hardy’s Bear Cove terminal, the arrival and departure point for epic BC Ferries voyages to Prince Rupert on the northern BC coast. Ferries also sail from Powell River north of Vancouver to Comox, an hour’s drive south of Campbell River.

BY ROAD Getting here is a breeze at upwards of 120 kmph (75 mph) along the smooth, four-lane Highway 19 North. Take the 90-minute drive from Nanaimo’s ferry terminals, or add another two hours to the equation when travelling here along the Trans-Canada Highway (#1) north from Victoria. Those who prefer a more leisurely route through pretty coastal communities can detour off the fast track at Parksville and take the scenic Oceanside Route (aka Highway 19A).

IslandLink Bus and Tofino Bus offer regularly scheduled trips north and south through Campbell River and region that connect with the ferry terminals and other major Vancouver Island centres.

BY SEA Private boats and yachts are welcomed at the many local marinas in the North Central Island. These full-service refuges for our nautical visitors offer a wide range of berths that can handle everything from pleasure craft to cruise ships. Fuel depots are located at

strategic spots. And snug harbours and beautiful coves offer safe anchorages throughout the Discovery Islands, Desolation Sound and such Pacific coastline refuges as Nootka Sound, Kyuquot Sound and the deepwater Muchalat, Nuchalitz and Esperanza inlets.

BY AIR Campbell River Airport (YBL) is a natural choice for adventurers who’d like to be pursuing a favorite pastime within an hour of landing in the region. The airport’s friendly, informal atmosphere is complemented by excellent service and technical support that reflects the character of the city it serves. The facility features a 6500' runway and is home to an array of aviation and aerospace companies servicing the entire Pacific coast corridor. YBL is a Canada Customs authorized airport of entry (AOE) and exit for privately operated or small chartered aircraft.

The Comox Valley Airport (YQQ), located 40 minutes south of Campbell River, is a full service terminal with service to Bella Bella, Calgary, Edmonton, Vancouver and seasonal service to Puerto Vallarta. Central Mountain Air, Pacific Coastal and WestJet all offer daily non-stop flights from YQQ. Float plane and helicopter services are available year round on the Campbell River Spit, and the Campbell River Airport. Seasonal float plane service is available to Campbell River from Powell River, Vancouver and the Seattle Area.

FERRIES OR SEA

Car and passenger unless otherwise noted BC FERRIES Various daily routes from the BC mainland 1.888.223.3779 Schedules 1.888.724.5223 Reservations www.bcferries.com

Within Campbell River 250.287.7433 www.transitbc.com/regions/cam

AIR

PLEASURE CRAFT 1.877.286.5705 Marina Info www.campbellriver.travel

Pacific Coastal Airlines 1.800.663.2872 (Vancouver) www.pacific-coastal.com WestJet 1.888.937.8538 (Calgary-Comox) www.westjet.com Air Canada 1.888.247.2262 (Vancouver & other Canadian centres to Campbell River & Comox) www.aircanada.com Central Mountain Air 1.888.865.8585 (Vancouver) www.centralmountainair.com Harbour Air 1.800.665.0212 | www.harbourair.com

BUS

SHUTTLE

SEATTLE – VICTORIA Passenger Only 1.800.888.2535 www.clippervacations.com PORT ANGELES – VICTORIA 360.457.4491 | www.cohoferry.com ANACORTES – SIDNEY 1.888.808.7977 www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries AHOY BC 1.604.886.3700 | www.ahoybc.com

ISLANDLINK BUS 1.866.986.3466 | www.islandlinkbus.com TOFNIO BUS 1.866.986.3466 | www.tofinobus.com

Contact the Campbell River Visitor Centre for more information 1.877.286.5705 | www.visitorcentre.ca

145 SLOTS + BINGO

Eat. Play. Socialize. Downtown OPEN DAILY

Sun-Thur 10am – midnight Fri-Sat 10am-12:30am

playtimegaming.com PlaytimeGamingCampbellRiver @pgcampbellriver

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British Columbia

LEGEND

Port Alice

Sayward

Woss

Camping

Caving

Skiing

Marina

Kayaking & Canoeing

Golfing

Float Plane

Biking

Historical Site

Bird Watching

Ferry

Hospital

Lookout

Hiking

Diving

Airport

Surfing

Museum

Restaurant

Visitor Centre

HARDWICK ISLAND

Jo hn sto n

Chamiss Bay

e St

Mt Cane

Kyuquot

Zeballos

Port Eliza

Vancouver Island

SONORA ISLAND

MAURELLE ISLAND

QUADRA ISLAND

Tahsis

READ ISLAND

Esperanza Inlet

CORTES ISLAND

Heriot Bay

Moutcha Bay

Gold River

Salmon Point

Muchalat Inlet

Nootka Sound

Downtown Campbell River

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Miles 183 31 28 57 17 38 95 73 148 146 124 67 15 40 35 98 149 165 80 123

Jubilee Parkway

Rd. od wo Lar .

Rd son Erick

Km 294 50 45 92 28 60 153 117 237 234 198 107 24 64 59 157 239 264 129 196

Dog woo d St.

Pen field Rd.

BEAVER LODGE FOREST LANDS

Roc klan dR d.

Washington USA

Campbell River Airport (YBL)

Comox Valley Airport (YQQ)

Black Creek

Mt Washington

ELK FALLS West to PROV. PARK Gold River & Tahsis

Quinsam Salmon Hatchery Hatche ry Rd.

oad ing R Logg

South to Nanaimo & Victoria

Miracle Beach

STRATHCONA PROVINCIAL PARK

Ferry Route

TRAVEL DISTANCE FROM CAMPBELL RIVER

Coal Harbour Comox Courtenay Gold River Miracle Beach Mt. Washington Nanaimo Parksville Port Alice Port Hardy Port McNeill Qualicum Beach Salmon Point Sayward Strathcona Park Tahsis Telegraph Cove Victoria Woss Zeballos

Willow Point

Campbell River Airport (YBL)

Friendly Cove

Gravel Road

Storey Creek Golf Club

Gorge Quathiaski Cove Harbour We-Wai-Kai Manson’s Village Landing

Oyster Bay

Paved Highway

Ferry Route

Whale Town

Campbell River NOOTKA ISLAND

Gravel Road

EAST THURLOW ISLAND

Browns Bay

Nuchatlitz Inlet

Paved Highway

WEST THURLOW ISLAND

Disco very Passage

PACIFIC OCEAN

PACIFIC OCEAN

raight

SCHOEN LAKE PARK

Kyuquot Sound

Auto Racing

Boat Launch

Bute Inlet

To Port McNeill & Port Hardy

Drew Harbour

Ferry to Quadra Island Wei Wai Kum Cruise Ship Terminal

STRAIT OF GEORGIA

Rebecca Spit Marine Provincial Park

Heriot Bay Ferry to Cortes Island

9

Natural Wonders

Campbell River and Region’s diverse, rugged and forested landscapes reside alongside soft, sandy beaches and sheltered coves, offering visitors and residents an abundance of opportunity to explore the natural wonders of the area. Days can be filled discovering waterfalls and rock formations within Strathcona Provincial Park, paddling around the Discovery Islands, beachcombing on the shores of Campbell River and Quadra Island, and soaking up the fresh, salty ocean air.

Waterfall enthusiasts will delight in the spectacular views of Elk Falls on the Campbell River while crossing over the suspension bridge and hiking the trails of Elk Falls Provincial Park just west of the city of Campbell River. Here they’ll also be able to walk amongst the giant Douglas Fir trees that line the main trail. Visit Strathcona Park’s high mountain peaks and deeply shaded valleys just 40km north of Campbell River on Highway 28. Explore the many trails under the canopy of the old growth forest and alongside lakes and waterfalls.

At the estuary, where the river empties into the ocean, recreation enthusiasts and wildlife watchers are drawn to the shores to participate in and witness the cycle of life as steelhead swim, salmon spawn, bears feed, and eagles soar. More land-based adventures can be found at Upana Caves - a well-kept secret that will fill the heart and mind of any curious spirit. Several hundred metres of gravel paths lead into a small network of caves that includes an underground waterfall, lush foliage and unique geological forms.

Take the hike up to the Ripple Rock lookout if you want an incredible view of the wild and ever changing currents of the Seymour Narrows. From the lookout you can often see whales, porpoises and other marine mammals.

On the Eastern shores of Vancouver Island south of Campbell River, the long, sandy beaches beckon families to play all day. At low tide, Saratoga beach stretches far into the ocean, while the high tide brings warm salty water to the shore. Miracle Beach is stunning at low tide. Light, sandy beaches are the perfect spot for relaxing with a book, sandcastle building or a game of Bocce with the family. When the tide is out, explore the Willow Point Reef where you will find all sorts of marine creatures from starfish to crabs to chitons and nudibranch. Paddle boarding, skim boarding, and kayaking are common activities along these accessible stretches of the coast.

Island hopping over to Quadra and Cortes allows more time for experiencing the joy and beauty of this area. Locals and visitors can be found splashing around at Rebecca Spit and Smelt Bay, taking in the impressive views from the top of Chinese Mountains, and delighting in the ocean boater’s playground within the surrounding waters.

Take a short drive from Campbell River and you will find Mount Washington.

Not just a skiing and snowshoeing delight in the winter, but also a hiker’s paradise in the summer. It is the gateway to Strathcona Park and offers a wheelchair accessible boardwalk through the alpine meadows and multi-day treks for the more adventurous.

With a relatively low population base for this expansive region, solitude can be savoured, life can slow down, and a connection to your natural surroundings can be felt. So pack a lunch, bring lots of refreshments, and soak up the natural wonders.

WORDS BY LAUREL SLISKOVIC UPANA CAVES, PHOTO BY LEE SIMMONS

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CAMPBELL RIVER & REGION DISCOVERY GUIDE | 11

Wildlife Watching Campbell River, the third largest city on the island, offers all of the amenities found in an urban environment without the hustle and bustle. Look up to see the eagles soaring and you know you have arrived on nature’s doorstep. You will soak in the panoramic view of the ocean and snow-capped mountains from almost every location in town.

Known by the First Nations for centuries, the area boasts excellent salmon runs, claiming the title “Salmon Capital of the World”. When Europeans began settling in the area they were astounded by the abundance of salmon that returned to the Campbell River each year and the Tyee Club formed in pursuit of the largest of these salmon.

In the Nuu-chah-nulth language, Tyee is the word for chief, and refers to Chinook salmon, the largest member of the salmon family.

In the fall, the legendary Tyee Club still fish for salmon in their classic rowboats at the mouth of the Campbell River.

In nature, resources are finite, and when the fishing industry expanded in conjunction with loss of fish habitat in BC, the fish could not replenish themselves as quickly as they were being caught. Salmon stocks declined throughout the province. The Quinsam Salmon Hatchery was established in 1974 in conjunction with other salmon enhancement projects and plays a critical role in restoring spawning salmon runs. The highlight is an interactive display for the public to observe the miraculous life cycle of salmon. Not far from the Quinsam hatchery is the Haig-Brown Heritage House. Managed by the Museum, it recognizes the profound work that local writer and conservationist Roderick Haig-Brown did to protect salmon and their habitats.

MAR Tremendous Variety of Waterfowl Sea Lion Migration Transient Orcas Pacific White Sided Dolphins Dall's Porpoise

APR Tremendous Variety of Waterfowl Bears Begin to Emerge From Hibernation Sea Lion Migration Transient Orcas Pacific White Sided Dolphins Dall's Porpoise Grizzly Bears in the Estuaries of Bute Inlet

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The Discovery Passage and ocean environment adjacent to Campbell River flourish with marine life. The region is known worldwide as one of the best cold water diving destinations. Once you dive below the surface, the sea transforms into a glowing emerald bath, teeming with sea creatures. The rocky shorelines are densely covered in a forest of kelp, housing giant urchins, anemones, soft corals, sea stars, crustaceans, and numerous species of fish. If you don’t want to dive into the 10C (50F) temperature water, the Discovery Aquarium provides mesmerizing displays of the enigmatic aquatic realm. Some of the most tidal active waters in British Columbia surround Campbell River. This cold water mixing allows nutrients to be stirred throughout the water column, inviting forage fish, seabirds and marine mammals.

There are over 100,000 pacific harbour seals in British Columbia waters, with the majority residing in the Strait of Georgia and the waters around Campbell River. Harbour seal populations have rebounded after years of a government authorized cull from 19131970. The seal population has been well regulated by a thriving population of mammal eating killer whales, which can often be seen in the area. Almost hunted to extinction in the 1950s, humpback whales have made an incredible recovery and this past summer was a record year for sightings. Because of the distinct patterns on their tail fins, individual whales can be identified. With the help of everyone on the water, the Marine Education and Research Society (MERS), has been chronicling the return of this giant.

Amid the leviathans are the expeditious dolphins and porpoises.

Without traveling far from the shoreline you are likely to see seal and sea lion haulouts. Nearby, Mitlenatch Island is a haven for the largest lion of the sea, the Steller Sea Lion. Despite their grandiose

MAY Black Bears at Their Most Numerous Time on the Beach Pacific White Sided Dolphins Dall's Porpoise Sea Lion Migration at Peak Transient Orcas Waterfowl Courtships Grizzly Bears in the Estuaries of Bute Inlet

JUNE Bears Still Plentiful Sea Lion Begin to Fade at the End of the Month Transient Orcas Pacific White Sided Dolphins Dall's Porpoise

JULY Northern Resident Orcas Come into Passage of the Beginning of the Month Bears Still Plentiful Pacific White Sided Dolphins Dall's Porpoise

AUG Northern Resident Orcas Come into Passage Bears Still Plentiful Pacific White Sided Dolphins Dall's Porpoise In the Last Weeks of this Month First Good Sightings of Grizzly Bears in Bute Inlet

size - males can reach over 1100kg (2000lb) - one often smells them before seeing them. This inquisitive creature’s roar can be heard in and amongst the squawks, squeals and whistles of the largest seabird colony in the Salish Sea. You can often hear their symphony as you approach the island. Pelagic cormorants, pigeon guillemots, black oyster catchers, and glaucous winged gulls are amongst the seabirds that frequent this protected island and make it a bird watcher’s paradise.

If you prefer the land to the water, terrestrial wildlife is abundant throughout Campbell River and area’s walking, hiking and biking trails. The area is a destination for avid bird watchers, nature photographers, environmentalists and even the occasional tracker of the still elusive Sasquatch. Black tailed deer travel throughout neighbourhoods and parks, and black bears search the rivers for salmon. Elk Falls Provincial Park, the Beaver Lodge Lands, Oyster Bay Shoreline Park, and Miracle Beach are just a few of the many popular wildlife viewing areas in the region.

Campbell River is the regional headquarters for whale and grizzly bear watching tours. Trips are scheduled daily during the summer months. Drop by the Campbell River Visitor Centre to book a once in a lifetime wildlife adventure.

Whether on land or at sea, it is indisputable that the wildlife surrounding the city is embedded in the historical significance and future existence of Campbell River.

WORDS BY AMBER STROEDER | PHOTOS BY JAMES HEADRICK

SEPT Northern Resident Orcas Come into Passage Bears Still Plentiful Pacific White Sided Dolphins Dall's Porpoise Waterfowl Begin to Return Sea Lions Return Grizzly Bears in Bute Inlet

OCT Northern Resident Orcas Come into Passage Bears Dependent on Weather Pacific White Sided Dolphins Dall's Porpoise Waterfowl Plentiful Sea Lions Back at Haul Out Areas Still Very Good for Grizzly Bears in Bute Inlet

YEAR ROUND Bald Eagles are Abundant Throughout the Region all Year Long

CAMPBELL RIVER W H A L E WATC H I NG

Adventure Tours

and

campbellriverwhalewatching.com • Discovery Harbour Marina Floathouse - Dock E

Biking Like many others who’ve relocated to Campbell River for the world-class riding, I’ve never looked back. I left the epicenter of mountain biking in North Vancouver seven years ago to enjoy the fantastic riding. And, it’s not just mountain biking that shines in this region—all styles of riding are equally compelling. I commute, enjoy epic daylong trail rides, utilize the dirt jumps, and you’ll find me towing my daughter along the Rotary Seawalk enjoying the ocean breeze.

Campbell River is set up to keep cycling simple and safe. Casual riding routes are easy to navigate and you can ride almost anywhere in town with very little traffic. The Greenways Loop encompasses the Seawalk, the cycling path along Dogwood Street, the Jubilee Parkway, and the main paths through the Beaver Lodge Lands. You’ll be blessed with scenes that include dense forest, coastal mountains, and the Discovery Passage.

Road riding in and around Campbell River offers safe, scenic routes that can take anywhere from 30 minutes to an entire day.

Whether you head north along the ocean, south along Highway 19, or explore the back roads, you’ll be treated to amazing views, undulating terrain, and in most cases, nice wide shoulders. One of the most popular rides is the 40-50km long Hamm Road Loop.

Head south along Highway 19, turn east toward the ocean at Hamm Road, where you may see a few buffalo, and then return north along Highway 19A to enjoy an ocean view.

Another great adventure awaits you if you head north toward Roberts Lake, where you can enjoy a delicious cinnamon bun at the turn-around before heading back to Campbell River. The long gradual climbs on this 65km ride are rewarded with fast, smooth descents through the forest and alongside the ocean. If you’re looking for shorter, more casual rides, there are lots of options. As an added bonus, they are easy to navigate.

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CAMPBELL RIVER SEAWALK

Campbell River makes a perfect resting spot for cyclists doing longer tours on Vancouver Island. With plentiful accommodation and places to eat and unwind, it’s the obvious choice for an overnight stay before heading north to less populated areas. The star in the crown is a fully dedicated bike shop.

riding, you will find plenty of black diamond trails to challenge your climbing and descending skills, as well as your fitness. You can also plan a loop that gives you a bit of everything, including beautiful views of Discovery Passage and Quadra Island, all while riding through some of the lushest forest and best single track anywhere.

Mountain Biking is the biggest draw for most cyclists coming to Campbell River. With hundreds of kilometres of amazing single track riding within a few minutes of town, it’s no wonder. You can ride steep and technical trails, take the family for a casual ride deep in the woods, or you can put together an all-day loop that will have you figuring out a way to move here.

If you’re an adrenalin junkie, you will want to ride Menzies Mountain.

This more recently built network is just ten minutes north of town and offers up some steep terrain where you will find a mix of natural and man-made features. Menzies has shuttle access if you have a 4x4, but if you prefer to earn your turns, approximately 90 minutes of steep climbing will have you at the top. On the way down there are some very steep sections, wooden skinnies and drops, and three or four spectacular views of the valley below. These trails are all black diamond and not for the faint of heart. If you love freeride or downhill riding then definitely put Menzies on your list.

The Beaver Lodge Lands are in the middle of town and easily accessed from many points along Dogwood Street. You will find some wide gravel paths, some smooth and twisty single track, as well as a few tight and technical trails. Elevation is limited in this area so you can have a great time with any level of ability or fitness.

The Pumphouse Trail network at the north end of town includes lots of nice single track, some exposed rock bluffs, and a bit of smooth double track through the trees. Most of these trails are difficult for the true beginner, but if you’re ready for a small challenge, the Pumphouse will suit you well. One of the original trails in this system is called Dean Martin. It’s a great two way trail on its own and makes the perfect single track connector from town to the Snowden Demonstration Forest, where you will encounter a huge network of green, blue, and black level trails.

The Snowden Forest trails include 100km of single track, ideal for all levels of rider. The Lost Frog Loop and Lost Lake Loop are made up of green and blue trails and are very suitable for a casual spin or a ride with the family. If your interests lean more towards technical

In addition to these mountain bike areas, we also have Woods Creek, Area 51, Quadra Island and a couple of cool, dirt-jump trails in development.

Short of Menzies Mountain, Campbell River offers year-round riding. When most of the country and even Vancouver Island is snowed in, our trails are almost always clear and open.

Maps of the main trail networks are available at local bike shops. Drop in to get great advice from the locals, or to join one of our group rides.

We hope to see you soon.

WORDS BY JAMES DURAND PHOTOS BY JAMES HEADRICK  & DAVID SILVER 

Climbing

Beneath my feet is almost a kilometre of air and then an iceberg filled lake. I’m standing on a thin edge and holding on to little more. Other than my climbing partner I haven’t seen another person in two days. In an hour I’ll reach the summit and look out beyond a sea of peaks to an ocean disappearing over the horizon. These are the rewards of rock climbing on northern Vancouver Island. About 350 million years ago Vancouver Island sat near the equator, a tropical archipelago of volcanic rock ringed by coral reefs and lush seas. Over hundreds of millions of years tremendous forces pushed the islands north and east until they ran into the coast of North America. The collision forced mountains skyward, exposed basalt and granite domes and lifted limestone out of the ocean. The blank slate of a rock climbing playground was laid. A few millennia of glaciers, water and wind did the rest. Today the climbing areas in the Campbell River region of Vancouver Island range from one-pitch sport climbs to 25-pitch mountaineering routes. And while it may lack the prestige of Squamish or the heritage of the Canadian Rockies, it makes up for them in charm, quality and adventure. Nowhere better embodies this than Mount Colonel Foster. Its 1,500m long, 1,000m high, east face crowns Landslide Lake in Strathcona Provincial Park. Only a handful of climbers reach its isolated main summit every year. A more moderate goal is Elkhorn, Foster’s Matterhorn-looking neighbor.

The dramatic relief leading to the second highest summit on the island hides relatively easy and well established climbing. Doable in a day from the car, the alpine atmosphere on its flanks also makes it a pleasant three day ramble. But like anywhere, the feather in a mountaineer’s helmet is the highest peak, and here it’s the wonderfully named Golden Hinde.

The 2,200m high mountain sits in the remote heart of Strathcona Provincial Park. It’s a worthy backpack trip just to reach its base at Burman Lake. Here the Hinde rears up in an ever steepening ramp to its summit, where lofty views reach from coast to coast. Beyond the high peaks of Strathcona Park are plenty of other worthy objectives. Consider Victoria Peak near Gold River. Logging roads high on its south ridge make it one of the easiest mountaineering peaks to bag. Its postage stamp summit adds even more allure. The high quality and clean granite of the Nomash Slab on Grayback Peak brags a handful of long routes, a few of them fully bolted, and rarely another person in sight.

A stark contrast to these wild destinations is Crest Creek Crags. The Heathens, a local climbing club, adopted this roadside collection of cliffs near Gold River and have spent countless hours not only developing more than 100 climbs of all grades, but creating an impressive trail network linking them. The mostly single pitch climbs are on excellent quality basalt in stands of old growth fir or in open patches with nice views. With camping nearby, a lake to cool off in, and no crowds, it’s sport climbing done right. Rounding out the climbing experience is On the Rocks Climbing Gym in Campbell River. Right on the highway to all the north Island destinations, the indoor rock climbing walls are the place to learn, refine, train, or satiate an itch to get off the ground. The full service gym has dozens of routes, self-belaying devices, gear rentals, courses, and a bouldering cave. So, yes, the Campbell River region may not be on the radar of many climbers or mountaineers, but that’s not for lack of objectives. There’s plenty here to keep a climber occupied for a lifetime. Some of it world class! Much of it promises adventure. Plenty of blank spaces remain. Island climbers continue to ascend new routes all the time; in the last few years Quadra Island climbers established an entirely new cragging area. They bolted dozens of moderate routes on the basalt cliffs of the Chinese Mountains. A short walk from the car and easily accessed off of hiking trails, some inspire with sweet views over the island to the Strait of Georgia. It’s another regional island gem in the works.

WORDS BY RYAN STUART | PHOTO BY BOOMER JERRITT

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CAMPBELL RIVER & REGION DISCOVERY GUIDE | 17

Golfing Depending on the season you can fish or ski in the morning and golf in the afternoon. You won’t have to take out a bank loan or second mortgage to get out with your clubs for a few hours and enjoy the natural environs, considered by many to be amongst the most beautiful in the world.

Storey Creek Golf Club Just minutes south of the municipal boundary of Campbell River on Highway 19A sits the crown jewel of the region.

Storey Creek Golf Club is consistently ranked in the top 10 best public courses in BC. In 2014, the PGA of BC ranked it the number one public course in the province and in 2015, Score Golf ranked it the forty-third best public course in Canada and fifth for value. As early as 2008, Golf Digest awarded it a 4.5 in the “Best Places to Play” edition of their magazine.

Storey Creek’s billing as a “Course in Nature,” is a worthy title. Cutting its way through old-growth forest, the Les Furber design finds golfers negotiating the friendly deer and wildlife that live on and around the course. The course runs alongside streams and ponds teeming with beavers and salmon; look up and you’ll see eagles and hawks soaring overhead.

With pristine fairways and expansive, undulating greens, every round at Storey Creek creates a memory you’ll be reminiscing about for years.

Sequoia Springs Golf Club Sequoia Springs sit on the hill overlooking the City of Campbell River proper and holds challenges and beauty of its own.

The front nine at Sequoia plays significantly longer than the back – more than five hundred yards longer if played from the back tees – but don’t get discouraged if your front nine score looks higher than normal. Par on the back nine is a full four shots less than the

front and opens with three par-3s in the first five holes.

Be sure to make time for a visit to the beautiful clubhouse for a bite to eat or a drink on the patio, which overlooks the pond surrounding the 18th green and the first tee box.

This course feels like it popped up in the middle of a farmer’s field, winding through trees in places around the outside of the property and opening up in the middle for a unique shot-making experience.

Quadra Island Golf The newest course on the West Coast, Quadra Island Gold, first opened for play in 2012, but feels like it’s always been there.

An interesting wrinkle to this course is the two sets of tees at each hole, making for a different round the second time through.

This nine-hole track features dramatic elevation changes to accompany its equally dramatic views of the surrounding mountains and ocean.

Accuracy is key at Rainbow’s End as the greens are small and often sloped away from the center. Find the middle of the green to give yourself a putt for birdie instead of going up and down with a wedge for par.

Of all the courses in the area, Quadra is the one with the most diverse style of hole, despite only having nine of them. From the short and wide-open downhill par-4 that opens your round, the long uphill par-5 5th hole, to the signature par-3 9th that looks simple on the scorecard but has a long carry over the pond to find dry land, this course is more about where you hit it than how far.

Be patient with your club selection and plan on going around a second time, because as soon as you walk off the 9th green, you’ll want to head back to the 1st tee for another crack at this course.

If you let them know which ferry you’ll be on coming across on, you can leave your car on the Campbell River side, board the boat with your clubs, and be shuttled to and from the course. If you want to take your vehicle across you can spend the day visiting the local shops, kayaking, hiking, picnicking, whale watching and experiencing everything Quadra has to offer.

Rainbow’s End Golf Course & Club House Leave your driver in the car and practice your short game at this nine-hole par-3 course (with two par-4s if you go around twice) just outside Sayward, about an hour north of Campbell River via Highway 19.

Gold River Golf & Country Club If you’re heading to the West Coast of the Island, consider bringing your clubs and checking out the Gold River Golf & Country Club.

This hidden gem is another nine-hole municipal track that opened in 1991 and has really grown into the landscape since then.

Settled along the banks of the Gold River just a few minutes south of the village, the course is nestled in mountainous beauty, making it difficult to focus on your game for the best possible reason.

Whichever course you choose, it’s certain you’ll be talking about your trip for years to come.

WORDS BY MIKE DAVIES PHOTO BY STOREY CREEK GOLF CLUB

QUADR A ISLAND GOLF

It’´s in our nature.

950 Heriot Bay Road 250.285.2811 | info@quadragolf.com www.quadragolf.com

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Hiking No one ever said the road to heaven would be easy. I find myself weak in the quads, huffing and puffing, and dripping with sweat part way up the Kusam Klimb Trail. I’ve never been to the top of H’kusam, the mountain above the Village of Sayward, but those who have say “it’s worth the effort.” Trusting my faith in word of mouth, I put my head down and push on. The hiking trails in the Campbell River region fork in one of two directions, flat or towards the sky. While the aptly named Klimb fits the latter, this morning I drove by one of the others. Heading north from Campbell River I passed the Ripple Rock Trail. It's a jaunt along exposed rock bluffs to a lookout that exposes the Discovery Islands, the Mainland Coast Mountains, and a view of one of the most powerful tidal rapids on the West Coast. Twice a day the tides rush through a narrow channel at up to 40km per hour. A submerged rock - the trail's namesake - used to kick up boat eating waves. Then, in the 1950s, the largest non-nuclear explosion blew its top off and tamed it...a bit. Water performs a more vertical maneuver at another Campbell River premiere hike. Last year the local Rotary Club completed a spectacular suspension bridge over the 70m high canyon beneath Elk Falls.

Just west of downtown along the Campbell River, a wheelchairaccessible trail swings through old growth forest to the bridge and a bird’s eye view down at the 25m falls. It also links up to the popular Canyon View hiking loop which heads downstream on both sides of the river. Another good river hike is the Peppercorn Trail in Gold River, which is popular with fishermen and famous for its wily steelhead runs, the trail follows the rapids for a kilometer.

In the fall, it’s a great place to watch salmon migrating upstream.

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Today I wanted something more challenging, and two hours into the eight hour loop of the Kusam Klimb, I know I’ve found it. I pop out of the forested slopes of the lower mountain to emerge into the sun and a sprawl of views. I can tell I’m getting closer to paradise. Wildflowers polka dot the meadows and a panorama of peaks and ocean is opening up. Still the trail climbs. Like a lot of paths around here this one has a story; Kusam is also called Bill’s Trail after the local who built it by hand, Bill West-Sells. It began as a route to his water source. Once there, he kept on building. After 15 years of solo, unpaid work, he finally reached the peak. Instead of resting he continued to improve it with embellishments like benches and an outhouse.

Another colourful character is responsible for the Little Zeballos Trail, also known as Vinnies. In 1999, Vinnie Parker won the lottery. When asked what he was going to do with his winnings the humble Zeballos logger said “I’m going to blow it.” And he did. When he died, 12 years later, he still lived in a trailer park in the remote West Coast town and everyone loved him. Among his legacies is this walking trail along the local river.

Another interesting story comes from the Elk River Trail. Deep in Strathcona Provincial Park, mid-way between Campbell River and Gold River, it’s a popular backpacking route or a 22km round trip day hike. As the name suggests, it follows the Elk River, but also cuts through big trees with fleeting views of snowy summits.

At trail’s end is Landslide Lake, which gets its name from the effects of a powerful earthquake in 1946. Kicked loose by the shaking,

a huge rock slide trundled off the mountain above, scraped the hillside to bedrock and emptied the lake. The slide’s scars still dominate the upper valley. With snow fields, a vertical rock wall, river and lake, it’s one of those mountain locales where geography class comes to life. In comparison H’kusam is a rolling hill with an amazing view. I’m getting close to the Klimb’s summit now. Far below I can see boats in Johnson Strait and the green and black patchwork of inlets and islands. The Coast Range, tipped in white, dogtooth’s the horizon. Eventually I reach the trail’s pinnacle, a little pass and a waterfall. It’s decision time. From here I can descend the way I came, drop off the other side and follow a loop back to the start, or scramble over exposed terrain to the peak. This is not the only easy-to-reach summit around these parts. Crest Mountain and King’s Peak, both in Strathcona Park, are within reach of boots and reward with alpine playgrounds.

However, both require the fortitude of gaining about a mile of vertical in one go. An easier option is Chinese Mountains, twin rounded summits on Quadra Island, a short ferry hop from Campbell River. From the trailhead, a good path climbs steadily to the top of both the north and south summits and include sweeping views of the Coast and Island mountains and across all of southern Quadra. On H’kusam I defer my decision some more, basking in the warm sun and big views. I’m in no rush to leave this little chunk of paradise. Where else on earth can I admire glaciers, the ocean, the highest peaks in BC, and the farm lands of the Sayward Valley? It’s a spiritual spot indeed.

WORDS BY RYAN STUART

Snow Sports It’s dark when my alarm sounds. I stumble to the kitchen to brew an espresso and stuff a log into the wood stove just as the last few stars fade and the deep blue of a clear winter morning dawns over Vancouver Island. Overnight temperatures hit the sweet spot of about 4C, which combined with a helping of West Coast precipitation, spells fresh powder snow in the mountains. Morning doziness turns into feverish activity as I scramble into ski clothing and assemble gear. Campbell River may be a coastal city, but in its rugged backyard lay mountains that routinely smash Canadian, and sometimes even global, snowfall records. During the 2010/11 seasons, Mount Washington Alpine Resort recorded 1920cm of snow. Yup, that's more than 19 metres of the stuff. As a skier and a freelance journalist, my work takes me to mountain ranges and ski resorts around the world, but some of my most memorable winter experiences have been right here on Vancouver Island.

On a clear winter day at Mount Washington, one of 13 destination resorts in British Columbia, you can ski knee-deep powder and enjoy ocean views. A mere 40km drive south along Highway 19 and up the Strathcona Parkway, Mile High Mountain sits on the doorstep of spectacular Strathcona, BC's iconic and first provincial park. The resort features nearly 700 hectares of skiing and snowboarding terrain, with 81 runs to satisfy everyone from a first timer to a seasoned expert. Two entertaining terrain parks with rails, boxes, table tops and jumps, keep the kids and jibbers happy for days, while a liftserviced tube zone, along with night skiing on the Whiskey Jack chairlift, are perennial family favorites. Four magic carpets in 22 | WWW.CAMPBELLRIVER.TRAVEL

the green zone and tube carpet make for a fun and ideal learning environment for beginner boarders and skiers.

Mount Washington also offers the winter magic of cross-country skiing and snowshoeing through Paradise Meadows. The post and beam design of Raven Lodge makes for a cozy and comfortable headquarters for Nordic skiers and snowshoers alike. A network of world-class, groomed, and track-set cross-country ski trails, totaling 55km, starts at the lodge and loops through the snowcovered meadows and old growth forests. Snowshoers also have a matrix of dedicated trails to explore and enjoy; for added spice they can sign up for the ever popular and sumptuous Raven Lodge Snowshoe Fondue dinner.

If Mount Washington is the Cadillac of island winter experiences then Mount Cain Alpine Park is its rusty VW Beetle counterpart, full of charm and spirit. Located near Schoen Lake Provincial Park in rugged northern Vancouver Island, a two hour drive north of Campbell River, Mount Cain is run by a non-profit society and known for its legendary hospitality. It has a community of private character cabins, accommodations owned by the society, two rental chalets - the Cypress and Blueberry – and the Kapitany and Mount Cain Lodges. Even more legendary than Mount Cain's hospitality is its snow quality. Here's the secret; except for Christmas and Spring Break, the mountain is open only on weekends, meaning snowfall accumulates throughout the week turning the 21 runs and 457 vertical metres of inbounds fall line terrain into a weekend powder paradise.

For adventurous backcountry skiers, Vancouver Island feels like untapped territory. Mount Washington is the gateway for daylong backcountry skiing and snowshoeing excursions or longer overnight trips into the wilds of Strathcona Park. Mount Cain has lift-accessed backcountry riding in the surrounding bowls and chutes that rival any ski area in BC. Snowmobilers have vast networks of old logging roads to explore throughout the region. However, safe winter backcountry travel requires solid route-finding, terrain, and avalanche assessment skills.

Courses are available to teach Avalanche Skills Training to help winter backcountry travelers acquire the skills and knowledge to travel safely beyond the ski area boundaries.

So when your alarm sounds on a crisp winter morning, imagine sliding through the silent beauty of Paradise Meadows or standing atop Mount Washington's Eagle Express, powder snow beneath the skis, the Strait of Georgia glistening a vertical mile below. Or perhaps you'll be the first to load the upper T-bar at Mount Cain on a Saturday morning after a week of winter storms have come and gone. Sure Campbell River is fishing country, but it's also on the doorstep of wild and wonderful snow country.

WORDS BY ANDREW FINDLAY PHOTO BY JENN DYKSTRA

Fly Fishing When fly-fishers head to Campbell River and its surrounding beaches, they go in search of salmon. One of their favourite methods involves wading from the shore into the river, to initiate a slow retrieve. This technique will hook you a lot of weeds, but it will also hook you a lot of salmon, and knowledgeable anglers will set the hook at the first sign of resistance.

When casting into tidal flows or the current of a river, you must mend your line to present the fly as natural prey would appear.

Casting crosscurrent and dragging the fly back is a common mistake when beach fishing. The drag makes the fly move in the wrong direction, just as in a river, and you get significantly fewer strikes because of it.

Fly patterns are simple ties that imitate the food of salmon, whose diet includes small shrimp, tiny crustaceans, squid and baitfish.

Small streamer patterns of blue, pink, or green, over silver bodies, tied onto No. 8 - No. 2 stainless steel hooks, work well and are most common. For pink salmon specifically, pink hooks are the favourite, likely because they feed mostly on krill.

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During a pink salmon spawning run, you will likely catch more fish than the law allows you to keep, so catch-and-release is a common practice. This technique is easy with pinks, since their short runs allow you to bring fish quickly to hand. Barbless hooks combined with their soft mouths, allow for quick, easy releases.

You must take care not to pressure them too much once they’ve been hooked. If you are overly aggressive when playing them, the hook will pull out. Although they love to run, they seldom go long distances like Coho, so there is little need for pressure on the line.

As salmon go, pinks are the smallest. While their maximum weight is estimated at 10lb, they average 4-5lb when fully mature.

They are nicknamed “humpies” because of the characteristic humped back the males develop during their spawning migration.

Identification of these fish is quite easy, as they have large, oblong, blotchy spots on their tails, rather than the small round spots found on Coho and Chinook.

Pinks make excellent table fare when cooked fresh. They don’t freeze well, so many people, myself included, like to bake up a

fresh salmon for dinner on the evening it was caught, and smoke the rest. They are outstanding when smoked!

Chest waders are a necessity since you will be wading deep.

Make sure your wading boots have sturdy soles and cleats.

If you wear a full-length vest, remove fly boxes and other gear from the lower pockets. If you wade deeper than the bottom of the vest, whatever is in your bottom pockets will be soaked in saltwater. Once you get home, hose down your boots and waders, then disassemble your reels and flush the parts with warm water to get rid of any residual salt. I cannot stress good maintenance enough when dealing with ocean water. I’ve seen plenty of good gear ruined due to lack of proper maintenance.

Enjoy what Campbell River has to offer and we’ll see you in or on the water. Tight lines and silver smiles.

WORDS BY LARRY STEFANYK PHOTO BY SLIPSTREAM IMAGES

Sport Fishing Long known for its focus on salmon, Campbell River owes much of its recent development to its identification as a sport fishing mecca.

Whenever the topic of sport fishing crops up, so too does the name Campbell River, known for over 80 years as the "Salmon Capital of the World." The abundance of salmon and other bounty from the sea such as cod, clams, oysters and crab have always been an integral part of its appeal, whether for sustenance or sport. For decades, recreational anglers have been drawn to the migration of salmon passing by on their way to the local rivers where they were spawned years before. Chinook salmon can be caught year-round and other species come through in waves. And it's not just salmon found here, nearby lakes and rivers abound with steelhead and trout.

The city follows the shoreline of scenic Discovery Passage in the Strait of Georgia, framed by beautiful rivers and surrounded by the Discovery Islands and majestic mountains. With a population hovering around 34,000, Campbell River is a modern, cosmopolitan city, offering all the amenities and services one might need. More importantly, no community of similar size along the BC coast is as dedicated to accommodating and servicing recreational anglers. This includes the very popular 600ft long pier constructed solely for the purpose of fishing.

Unlike many areas that depend on migratory salmon runs for seasonal action, Campbell River’s location at the northern extreme of the Strait of Georgia, means anglers enjoy Chinook salmon fishing year round, weather permitting. These are local, juvenile fish referred to as “feeder Chinook” that remain in the 26 | WWW.CAMPBELLRIVER.TRAVEL

area as they mature to spawning age, gorging on the Strait’s abundance of baitfish. While most of these juveniles fall in the 5 to 15lb range, a few reach weights of 30lb.

From late May to early June, migratory Chinook move down upper Discovery Passage through Seymour Narrows, where the action picks up at various tide rips located throughout lower Discovery Passage, along the western shoreline of Quadra Island.

You will find that pink salmon arrive about mid-July, followed

by Sockeye in early August. On the 15th of August, Tyee time at the Tyee pool begins, when big Chinook – 30lb or more to qualify at Tyee – begin gathering at Frenchman's Pool and the Tyee Pool prior to running up the Campbell/Quinsam system.

This traditional fishery is adjacent to the river mouth and further along the City’s waterfront, in Tyee Pool. Almost all the fishing here is done with trolling plugs or spoons not far below the surface, since bait isn’t allowed in the special management zone and anglers should be aware of the tackle restrictions for this time and area. Information about the Tyee Club rowboat fishery can be found at www.tyeeclub.org.

Depending on weather and water conditions, this mixed-bag fishery continues to operate into early September, by which time most of the pinks and sockeye have moved into freshwater.

Most Chinook are upstream by mid-September, replaced by northern Coho and chum, which provide fair to good saltwater action well into October. From then on its feeder Chinook until the following spring.

There is more than salmon to the saltwater fishery. Bottom fish available include several species of rockfish (that look much like a smallmouth bass), lingcod and their smaller cousins the kelp greenling.

There are also some scary-sized halibut. All finfish stocks have specific catch limits and regulations are in effect to ensure stock survival. It is recommended that visiting anglers make themselves aware of these restrictions by thoroughly checking the BC Tidal Waters Sport Fishing Guide, which is available for free from any tackle store or Fisheries and Oceans Canada office. Of particular concern are the various Rockfish Conservation Areas (RCAs), so make sure that you have the most up-to-date information available.

WORDS BY LARRY STEFANYK | PHOTO BY BOOMER JERRITT APR

MAY

JUNE

JULY

AUG

SEPT

OCT

CHINOOK – KING SALMON (YEAR ROUND) WINTER CHINOOK TYEE – ROWING CHINOOK COHO SALMON NORTHERN COHO CHUM SALMON PINK SALMON SOCKEYE SALMON STEELHEAD (YEAR ROUND)

SEA K A Y AK ips Day Tou rs Tr and Half Day, F C a m p i ng ull D ay & urs S u n s e t To

It’s easy f ro m

Ca m p b e l l R iv er!

Just park... walk onto the ferry... we’ll pick you up on the Quadra side!

Paddling Paddling opportunities in the Campbell River region will satiate cultural explorers seeking coastal history, those craving authentic wild spaces, and free spirits pushing their boundaries. With yearround fresh and salty paddling options, it’s an idyllic destination for kayaking, canoeing, and paddle boarding, and it often lures visitors into making the Campbell River region home.

Historically, First Nations Peoples on the east and west coasts of Vancouver Island paddled cedar canoes throughout this region’s vast network of islands, inlets, lakes, and rivers. Paddling enabled harvest, trade, and all elements of building and maintaining rich, diverse cultural connections that endure. Nowadays, paddling here is pure pleasure, even for the many professional guides and outfitters primed to show you the best of the best. With ear-to-ear grins, visitors and locals alike paddle through this spectacular region to shed stress and be inspired by stunning vistas and prolific wildlife.

Lightweight paddling crafts now adorn vehicle roofs, allowing for quick and easy access to serene shorelines, rugged fjords and island clusters, reversing ocean rapids, flowing rivers, and lake systems. At 50o latitude, Campbell River remains a hub with excursions, selfguided day trips, multi-day adventures, and comfy lodge-based options beckoning from each direction.

Ocean kayaking is hugely popular in the region, as the craft includes space for dry storage and allows for efficient and relatively stable travel through a range of water conditions.

Choosing a destination requires good judgement about your skills and knowledge of wind and wave forecasts and conditions, and ocean tide heights and currents. If you’re unsure, sign up for a course or tour - Quadra Island might have the highest per capita density in Canada of sea kayaking instructors, tours, and rentals!

For safety and enjoyment, plan your sea kayak outings in the Discovery Islands, Nootka and Kyuquot Sounds with the advice of local friends and family, tourist information centers, great guide 28 | WWW.CAMPBELLRIVER.TRAVEL

No experience required local

250-285-3400

books, and abundant internet resources including tour company, First Nations, BC Parks, and BC Forest Recreation websites.

During summer months, the Discovery Islands are known for waters in constant motion along convoluted shorelines laden with marine life; orca and humpback whales, fish, and steep fjords. Skilled adrenalineseeking paddlers can meet their needs playing on "standing waves" through the constricted tidal currents at Surge Narrows and Okisollo Channel – not for the inexperienced or faint of heart and great fun to witness. The calm water paddler will appreciate sheltered shoreline day trips in areas like Gowlland Harbour or Heriot Bay on Quadra Island, and in coves around Cortes Island. Multi-day, boat-supported, or lodge-based paddling adventurers will lead visitors further into the outer islands (Read, Maurelle, Sonora, Stuart, East and West Redonda, East and West Thurlow and the Rendezvous Islands) and into the warmer waters of Desolation Sound toward the mainland inlets (Bute, Toba and Loughborough).

Breathtaking paddling is accessed by a scenic drive across the Beaufort Mountain range, which forms the spine of Vancouver Island.

Most experienced recreational kayakers arrange a boat or water taxi transport out to the inlets from Gold River, Tahsis, Zeballos, or Fair Harbour to access compact island and islet clusters (Nuchatlitz, Mission Group, Bunsbies), expansive sandy beaches (Rugged Point, Brooks Peninsula), and rugged rocky shores (Nootka Island, Union Island, Checleset Bay). Guided tours to the natural and cultural riches of the West Coast can be arranged with all logistics (including gear, food, and transportation) from the Campbell River area to the remote Kyuquot Sound, Nuchatlitz Islands, and Nootka Sound areas.

Paddling here takes you back in time, sharing places with massive trees, bears, wolves, eagles, salmon, sea otters, sea lions, whales, and coastal residents.

Vancouver Island’s best flatwater lake canoeing can be found on a day trip or a multi-day circuit on the Sayward Forest Canoe Route

located northwest of Campbell River. Main Lakes Canoe Chain on Quadra Island also offers stunning and serene freshwater getaways with established yet rustic campsites suited to small groups – a familiar taste of Canadian canoe culture in the region. Gliding through shallow reeds with songbirds and loons nearby is great soul food.

Recreational kayakers and paddle boarders can wet their bottoms in sheltered bays, coves, hidden lakes, moving waters, and island clusters throughout the region; maps, charts, and guide books overflow with suggestions and tips for finding secret beaches, which are often ideal launch points for exploration. The options are endless and could include: meandering through the serene Campbell River estuary; shoreline cruising along a Discovery Island while gawking at the wildlife or architecture perched above; or a relaxing evening activity after a day of sport fishing. Skilled river paddlers using kayaks or canoes are drawn to the Gold River flowing to the west coast.

Strathcona Park Lodge is uniquely positioned to offer visitors all manner of craft, including sea kayaks, canoes, paddle boards, and river kayaks, and to introduce talented guides and instructors for inspired ocean, lake, or river experiences.

Wherever visitors hit the water in the beautiful region, they can deepen their connection with these amazing waterways by visiting the museums, galleries, and cultural centers that present the living history of the First Nations Peoples that continues to shape the area and province. With luck, you might encounter the timeless power of an Aboriginal Dugout Canoe plying the salt or fresh water beside you.

WORDS BY DAVE PINEL PHOTO BY BOOMER JERRITT

KAYAKS

1-877-475-8687

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info@quadraislandkayaks.com

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Cruising With morning coffee in hand we set out into Discovery Passage as the golden amber light dances across the water with the rising sun. Early morning is one of our favourite times to be on the water as the ocean is calm and only dedicated seagoers and fishermen have begun their daily adventure. Off of Cape Mudge at the tip of Quadra Island, the sea is teeming with seals, porpoises, sea gulls, oystercatchers and an abundance of salmon. Tidal waters swirl with vigour as the cool northern waters funneling down from Johnstone Strait mix with the warm waters from Georgia Strait and the Gulf Islands, encouraging even humpback whales and pods of orcas to feed.

A spray of saltwater bounces across the bow of our sailboat and the wind hums at our back, beckoning us to hoist our sails for a great downwind sail to round Mitlenatch Island. A provincial park designated as a nature reserve and rockfish conservation area, Mitlenatch is a nice day sail or cruise at 7NM (nautical miles) one way from Campbell River. In the Coast Salish language, Mitlenatch means “calm waters all around,” and river otters, harbour seals and sea lions are often spotted lazing on the sunny rocks or splashing in the water. Cast in the rain shadow of Vancouver Island, this small rocky island features a semi-arid landscape that is home to the largest seabird colony in the Strait of Georgia.

Thousands of glaucous-winged gulls, pelagic cormorants, black oystercatchers, pigeon guillemots and many other species of birds choose Mitlenatch as their nesting grounds. Boaters can find temporary anchorage in Camp Bay or Northwest Bay and follow the interpretive trails to explore the park.

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Campbell River makes the perfect starting place or provisioning stop on a long journey. Boaters can easily access amenities including groceries, restaurants, coffee shops, tackle shops, a post office, car rental companies, fitness centres, and a variety of tour companies in Campbell River’s three marinas - Coast Discovery, Fisherman’s Wharf, and Discovery Harbour. Visitors can sign on for whale watching, fishing, mountain biking and sightseeing. Within short walking distance of these marinas, boaters will find two chandleries (marine stores) and a marine fuel station located in Discovery Harbour. Two local boatyards offer haul-out facilities; Ocean Pacific - adjacent to Discovery Harbour Marina - and the Freshwater Marina across from Tyee Spit. On Tuesdays at noon and Thursday evenings throughout the summer, those venturing downtown will be treated to live music at Spirit Square. On Sundays the Pier Street Farmer’s Market provides a great place to stock up on fresh produce, meat and baked goods.

As the gateway to the Discovery Islands and Desolation Sound, Campbell River is truly a cruisers’ paradise. Within an afternoon, boaters can reach Gorge Harbour on Cortes Island (13 NM) or Rebecca Spit on Quadra Island (12NM). Cortes Island offers an abundance of beautiful anchorages. Gorge Harbour features its namesake marina, a resort, grocery store, and restaurant, while Manson’s Landing Provincial Park boasts a white sand spit, beautiful lagoon, and close proximity to Hague Lake. Rebecca Spit offers great warm water swimming in the summer, a sandy beach, and a picnic area with a stunning backdrop that looks out to the Coast Mountains. Friends and families love to set anchor in Drew Harbour and spend a few days beachcombing and enjoying the sights. On the northwest tip of the island you’ll find the wilderness marine park of Von Donlop Inlet (Háthayim).

Octopus Islands Provincial Marine Park is 23NM away on the northeast side of Quadra Island and is another must see destination. With its scattering of beautiful rocky islets, the park offers excellent scuba diving and kayaking opportunities. Be sure to check out the 60-90 minute hike that takes you from the head of the bay to Small Inlet and up to Newton Lake for a wonderful freshwater swim. Boaters venturing to the Octopus Islands should check the tides for Surge Narrows in Beezly Passage as the tides regularly flow over 10 knots.

One of the most popular destinations in the area is Desolation Sound Marine Park. Nestled at the confluence of the Malaspina Inlet and Homfray Channel, the backdrop of Desolation Sound is truly stunning. Boaters are greeted with over 60km of rugged coastline to explore, from the dramatic peaks of the Coast Mountain fjords to East Redonda’s 1,591m mountainous landscape that rises abruptly out of the sea. The adventurous will find inviting swimming spots furnished with rope swings, rocky outcrops, and in some spots the warmest waters north of Mexico. Prideaux Haven resides 26NM away and is truly a boaters’ paradise, with a network of islands to explore by kayak, dinghy or paddle board.

The area boasts excellent snorkeling and warm water swimming, as temperatures regularly exceed 22C. Destinations within easy reach of Campbell River are unlimited and the diversity in anchorages outstanding. Whether you have a weekend, a week or the entire summer, you’ll be delighted with the area’s cruising.

WORDS BY AMBER ZIRNHELT PHOTOS BY SLIPSTREAM IMAGES  & JENN DYKSTRA 

Diving

Plunging over the side of a boat into the cold, dark waters off of Campbell River doesn’t sound too appealing, unless you’re a scuba diver. Then it provides a fantastic opportunity to drift along walls festooned with colourful sponges, anemones, and amazing fish life.

There are world-class dive sites along the western shoreline of Quadra Island, in the midst of Discovery Passage. The natural ebb and flow of the currents is magnified in this narrow stretch of water that extends south from Seymour Narrows to Cape Mudge, and it’s this increased water movement that causes nutrients to be carried past the rock outcroppings and walls to feed a host of sea life. Slack water remains for 30-45 minutes and it’s where you’re likely to see a multitude of creatures. Divers need to be experienced enough to handle the changing tides and currents, and go with a local guide or someone who knows the area well.

To the north, Seymour Narrows and Copper Bluffs offer steep walls with lots of anemones and large lingcod. Steep Island’s a favourite amongst divers with its large overhanging wall and caverns crowded with large tube worms and rockfish. Maude Island is where you’ll find the wreck of the HMCS Columbia. From the large and curious sea lions who may make a cameo appearance, to the tiny but very intriguing grunt sculpin, there is always something to see. This decommissioned Navy vessel sits in water that’s deep enough to provide an intriguing dive for wreck enthusiasts.

Near the entrance to Gowlland Harbour, in very shallow water, sits the May Island ferry wreck.

Partially visible during low tide, light streams through the exposed structures creating interesting scenes and exposing kelp and small fish. April Point and Whisky Point are both an explosion of colour. As you descend toward the bottom through the shallow kelp beds, masses of brilliant red and pink strawberry anemones are revealed, blanketing the rock formations. As you dive deeper, the yellow encrusting sponges and white gove sponges start filling your view. During this journey you’re likely to encounter lingcod, rockfish, wolf eels, and octopi. An encounter with a giant pacific octopus, which is the largest of its kind in the world, is always the highlight of a dive. If they emerge from their den to investigate the strange bubble-blowing intruders, their arms may prod or even entangle a divers’ arm or body. They mean no harm and provide the most thrilling experience of making physical contact with an animal in the wild.

The shallow shoreline along the Campbell River side of the passage provides two notable areas to spend time in the water. Argonaut Wharf on the Tyee Spit is a seldom-used wharf that offers great diving in water only 40ft deep. Jutting out from the gravel beach, these pilings are adorned with a multitude of life. Some are completely covered with billowing white plumose anemone, some are home to crimson anemone, and others are encased with giant barnacles. It’s in the empty shell homes of the barnacles that the amazing little grunt sculpin appear. These mouse-like fish can often be found guarding a nest or scurrying around on their finger-like pectoral fins. Small octopi can be found if one looks carefully around the old, fallen pilings and debris.

The thrill of fishing for salmon can only be equaled by snorkeling with them. Entering at the logging road bridge and flying downstream the length of the Campbell River to the estuary is an experience you will never forget. From July to September, pink and Chinook salmon congregate in deeper pools and weave around you as you float by. In the shallower sections, the salmon race past as you fly along. To be one with these fish in their river environment is breathtaking. In the Discovery Passage, spearfishing and the harvesting of shellfish is forbidden, and lends to an increase in rockfish and other sea life on display. For the underwater photographer, these popular sites offer spectacular opportunities for both vast and macro scenes. For those brave enough to take the plunge into our Emerald Sea, the rewards are endless.

WORDS & PHOTO BY EIKO JONES

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Culinary Delights

PHOTO BY SHELTER POINT DISTILLERY

Campbell River marks the gateway to northern Vancouver Island, a region known for outstanding outdoor recreation and adventure. Its unique position – north of the more populous centers – offers grand, dramatic landscapes and riches from land, lake and sea. Each community has its own character and flavour, and Campbell River is no exception.

Dick’s Fish and Chips, located downtown on a floating dock, always delights with fresh fish and hand-made fries wrapped in an old fashioned, newspaper cone. You can sit outside at one of the rustic picnic tables, breathe the ocean air and watch the marine wildlife and numerous boats as you enjoy your meal next to the park.

Dining options in Campbell River are extensive and you will find everything from simple, down-home fare, to refined offerings for even the most experienced foodie. As you travel along the Oceanside Highway 19A, past views of Quadra Island, the sand cliffs of Cape Mudge, and the Coastal Mountains, look out for The Forbidden Zone pizza just north of the Oyster River. For the ultimate picnic grab a small pie and a few craft beers next door and savour the day on the riverbank.

Baba Ganoush at Merecroft Village offers Mediterranean food, The Spice Hut at Mariner Square features Indian cuisine, and you’ll enjoy spicy, flavourful, Thai food at the Chang Rai Noodle House, Amy’s Asian Foods, or at Baan Thai downtown. Be sure to visit the Acropolis Steak House at Merecroft Village or White Tower Restaurant in Campbellton for authentic Greek cuisine. Wasabiya Japanese Café offers a traditional Japanese menu as well as a constantly changing assortment of seasonal specials.

The well-tended farmlands at Shelter Point Distillery are worth a look and the reward for stopping is a broad choice of flavored vodkas and single malt whiskey found in the gift shop. The comforting scents of oak, barley, and fruit greet you as you come in the door and you don’t need to be a whiskey connoisseur to appreciate the rich aroma of whiskey patiently aging in oak barrels.

The shining copper stills surrounded in natural stone, brick, and tile, look as though they were planted and grown in their surroundings.

In Campbell River’s Willow Point you will find many culinary delights.

SoCal offers a menu filled with Southern California favourites including fish tacos, seafood, and perfectly grilled steaks, best enjoyed on their outdoor patio and with friends. Just down the road you‘ll find specialty coffees and home-baked goods at the Sundance Java Bar. In the same plaza you’ll find delicious pulled pork sandwiches, meat pies, bison sausage rolls, giant brownies, and fruit bars at Dave’s Bakery, a favourite amongst locals. Another great way to spend a few hours is to pick up a coffee at Foggdukkers on the ocean and stroll along the seawalk.

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If you’re looking to dine next to the water and watch the sunset, Quay West offers a delectable variety of West Coast options from steak to salmon, burgers to pasta, and their legendary Pacific Rim Chowder. Their Sunday brunch features mouthwatering delights such as Crab Cake Benny and seafood crepes.

In the heart of downtown you can visit the Java Shack, Nesbitts Island coffee, Online Gourmet or Shot in the Dark, all of which offer a variety of scrumptious, fresh sandwiches, salads and soups.

In Discovery Harbour you will find the Riptide Marine Pub overlooking the water. With menu staples such as Firecracker Oysters, Moroccan chicken wings and their gourmet pastas and pizzas, the Riptide will become a favourite on your Campbell River vacation. Next door is Moxies, which offers a family friendly menu and adults-only lounge. For fine dining in the harbor, The Harbour Grill boasts the freshest seafood and classic gourmet menu items like Chateau Briand, Rack of Lamb, and Filet Mignon, which will

PHOTOS BY ERIN WALLIS AT GOWLLAND HARBOUR RESORT

satisfy even the most discerning diner. The waterfront view ensures that your experience is above and beyond your expectations.

Quadra Island, just a short ferry ride from Campbell River, also provides a variety of unique dining opportunities. The Heriot Bay Inn on Quadra Island is a dynamic gathering place where you can enjoy everything from a frosty draft and plate of wings, to braised lamb shank or beef wellington. There is often music and dancing, or karaoke for those looking for a little fun. During the summer months, visit the SouthEnd Farm and Winery to see where they create beautiful wines with their own estate grown grapes. They sell a variety of red, white and rosé wines, as well as their fantastic dessert wine flavoured with blackberry and cherry. Call them to find out about wine and food pairing events.

Gowlland Harbour, April Point, and Tsa Kwa Luten Lodge are all uniquely appointed resorts on or above the waterfront on Quadra that feature local food prepared with a fusion flare and have a longstanding reputation of providing visitors with a memorable menu and setting.

For those venturing further afield, you’ll find the largest and most delicious cinnamon buns at Robert’s Lake Resort and all-you-can-eat crab during the summer at the Narrows Restaurant at Brown’s Bay Resort. Try the Cable House Café in Sayward for a home-style meal or the Clayworks Café in Gold River for a fresh sandwich and cappuccino.

Growers and providers in the region are enthusiastic about going the extra mile to bring high quality, delicious food to our plates.

Local entrepreneurs are getting creative and moving toward providing fresh, local, organic, and ethically raised and sourced product whenever possible. As Campbell River continues to evolve so do our dining opportunities. Our food is as diverse as our community and we guarantee a dining experience to remember.

WORDS BY CARMEN AMBERSON

PHOTO BY JOAN MILLER

Arts, Culture & Heritage When I left Victoria to explore the northern communities of the Island I was prepared to park my Fluevogs in the closet and settle for a nice pair of hiking shoes. I was pleasantly surprised to discover a vibrant arts and culture scene in Campbell River and its surrounding communities. Once a booming mining and mill town, the city is now undergoing a cultural renaissance.

Entering from the south, you drive through Willow Point, and, if you look to your right, you’ll find the home of Sybil Andrews, an internationally renowned artist, and her husband Walter Morgan, a one-handed boat-builder, machinist, trumpeter and woodworker. The heritage cottage has been restored and is presently the home of the Campbell River Arts Council.

Just a stone’s throw away is Frank James Park, the site of the annual “Transformations on the Shore” chainsaw carving competition. Held every Canada Day weekend, this event brings novice, amateur, semi-professional, and professional carvers to the Pacific shoreline of Campbell River for five days to transform cedar and/or fir carving logs into works of art. Throughout the year some of the carvings remain on site for viewing. Closer into 36 | WWW.CAMPBELLRIVER.TRAVEL

town you can’t help but notice the “Big Rock” a forty foot tall glacial deposit adorned with years of graffiti art.

For those who crave heritage and history, the Campbell River Museum is a cultural treasure trove of historic and archival material of the region. It is recognized as a world-class museum and tourist destination, offering nine permanent exhibits that highlight the significant historic context of this community.

A few blocks north you will find the Campbell River Maritime Heritage Centre located in the old working harbour next to the fishing pier and aquarium. The Heritage Centre is the home of the BCP45, a fishing seiner that once adorned the back of the Canadian five dollar bill.

At the heart of the city lies the Campbell River Art Gallery, a small art space located downtown, next to Spirit Square and the Visitors Centre. The art gallery provides locals and visitors in the region an opportunity to experience some of the finest contemporary visual art from across Canada.

SHORELINE CARVING, PHOTO BY RODOLFO VILLALOBOOS

The Tidemark Theatre, located across the street from the Campbell River Art Gallery, is a true hub for arts and culture in the city. The bright pink, 467 seat art deco theatre was built in 1946 and has been operating as a community theatre and presenter since 1987.

Midway between the old downtown and historic Campbellton you are immediately struck by the strong First Nation presence that helps to define the cultural identity of this community. Ravens, whales and other First Nation designs adorn the sides of many buildings in the local shopping centres. Totems stand tall welcoming all visitors to the Wei Wai Kum First Nation traditional territory.

This stretch of the highway is also the gateway to historic Campbellton, home to one of the oldest hotels in the city, the “Quinsam.” The sign proclaiming live music at the “legendary Quinnie” might intrigue music enthusiasts to find out more. This place has a colourful history that has been celebrated by the people of this community for almost 100 years.

A modern rock climbing space is juxtaposed by a brightly painted older commercial space just up the street that houses a pottery

gallery/production company. Mussels and More Pottery has been creating and distributing exquisite, handmade, coastalthemed dinnerware pottery for almost 20 years.

The jewel of Campbellton is Haig-Brown Heritage House. Built in 1923, the riverfront farmhouse is the former home of Roderick Haig-Brown, a well-known conservationist, writer and magistrate. The historic family home that sits on the banks of the Campbell River is surrounded by tranquil gardens. During the summer months, the Haig-Brown House offers a unique bed & breakfast. In winter, the House provides temporary accommodation for the Writer in Residence, through a program operated by the Campbell River Museum.

A quick, 15 minute ferry ride will land you on Quadra Island, and whether it is visual arts, theatre, music or crafts you are seeking, you need not look far. There are so many special things about Quadra Island, but if you must choose, there are two events that are not to be missed. May Day is one of Quadra’s CONTINUE 

CAMPBELL RIVER & REGION DISCOVERY GUIDE | 37

PIER STREET MURAL, PHOTO BY SHELLEY STIRLING

oldest community celebrations, where people gather along the sandy beaches of Rebecca Spit for several fun-filled, familyoriented events. It is a coming together of family, friends and community that dates back to 1898. A more recent addition to Quadra’s island traditions is the Festival of Chamber Music. Now entering its 6th season, the Chamber Festival boasts worldclass chamber music in some of the most beautiful and intimate settings on the island.

carving, dancing ceremonials and other cultural and artistic activities engaged in the Kwa’kwa’ka’wa’kw people.” Visiting the centre is an opportunity you don’t want to miss.

From Quadra’s Heriot Bay you can catch another ferry to Cortes Island, a 45 minute ride in the Salish Sea. Cortes Island is an unparalleled backdrop for many of the island’s artistic and community endeavors.

A trip to Quadra is not complete without a visit to the Village of Cape Mudge to see the Nuyumbalees Cultural Centre. This world-renowned cultural exhibit houses a sacred potlatch collection and sixteen totem poles. It is obvious that the Nuyumbalees take their mission seriously: “To collect, preserve and display Native artifacts of cultural, artistic and historic value to the Kwa’kwa’ka’wa’kw people. To promote and foster

As it turns out, the Fluevogs have been kept in active rotation since moving to Campbell River. Now it’s time to dust off the hiking shoes and make the trip north to the historic Village of Sayward to participate on the Kusam Klimb. Here’s hoping I’m tough enough to make the trek.

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WORDS BY MICHELLE VANDERWOULDE

A First Nations Welcome

The fabric of our communities is enriched by the traditional knowledge and culture of local First Nations Peoples. There are many opportunities to enjoy an authentic First Nations experience.

From most every vantage point, Campbell River and the surrounding regions are framed by the dramatic backdrop of snow-capped mountains, evergreen forests and the crystal clear waters of the Pacific Ocean. Whether you are an avid fisherman, kayaker, outdoor enthusiast, interested in arts and culture or simply want to take in our natural beauty, there is something for everyone. The experience is made only more memorable by the knowledge that these are the lands where the first Nations People first hunted, gathered, fished and built their families and communities.

Begin your First Nations experience by visiting The Museum at Campbell River. This award-winning interactive museum highlights a substantial First Nations collection along with displays that explore the rich history of the people and showcases the natural resource industries of our region including logging, mining and fishing.

If you are interested in watching or purchasing the work of First Nations artists, stop by the Henderson Carving Shed on the Campbell River Spit. Here, renowned Master Carver Bill Henderson and his family produce world-class cedar carvings. The We Wai Kum Nation’s House of Treasures is located nearby in the Discovery Harbour and features a full-range of First Nations products.

Hop on board the ferry or water taxi to make the 15 minute crossing to Quathiaski Cove on Quadra Island.

Here, the We Wai Kai Nation invite you to tour the Sacred Potlatch Collection and sixteen totem poles housed at Nuyumbalees Cultural Centre in the Village of Cape Mudge. Take a stroll through their native garden or on the heritage trail to Tsa Kwa Luten Lodge where you can enjoy a traditional salmon BBQ on their seaside deck. At low tide comb the beach in front and search out ancient petroglyphs and rock carvings thought to be over 4,000 years old.

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Be sure to leave time for a walk and picnic at Rebecca Spit Provincial Park. The calm waters of Drew Harbour offer fantastic paddle boarding or kayaking, both for the novice and the more experienced. Dozens of small islands can be seen from the Spit, along with Cortez Island, home to the Klahoose First Nation. Ferries from Heriot Bay on Quadra Island to Whaletown on Cortez Island run frequently, making it the ideal destination for a day trip.

If you are looking for a rustic experience, catch Highway 19 north and head to Woss, where you’ll find fuel and a convenience store. Continuing north leads to the townsite of Zeballos. Here you will find accommodations, campsites, fuel, and some boutique shops. A First Nations run Bed and Breakfast welcomes guests year-round. Local guides support enthusiastic anglers as they trawl the waters of the Zeballos River and Zeballos Inlet.

Tucked between the Gold and Heber Rivers on Highway 28, west of Campbell River, you will find historic Gold River, on majestic Nootka Sound. It is the closest village to Friendly Cove where British explorer Captain James Cook first set ashore in 1778. To visit Friendly Cove you can hop on the day-long cruise aboard the Uchuck out of Gold River. Along the way you will experience the sights and sounds of the coast and the steep sides of Muchalat Inlet, a U-shaped fiord which is a remnant of the last ice age. Since 1923 Friendly Cove has been declared a National Historic Site by the government. Every August since 1996 the Island celebrates the historic first meeting of Chief Maquinna and Captain Cook.

Just how richly steeped in First Nations history all of these places are is evident as you visit each unique community. From artwork, to traditional stories and food, our region has it all for those wishing to learn about First Nations culture.

However you choose to spend your time in our region, we welcome you. Explore all we have to offer and see why the West Coast is the best coast!

WORDS BY JODI SIMKIN PHOTO BY BOOMER JERRITT

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DISCOVERY FISHING PIER, CAMPBELL RIVER PHOTO BY ALANA MILLWARD

MT WASHINGTON PHOTO BY JAMES HEADRICK

Family-Friendly Fun Local residents know that Campbell River and its surrounding communities are wonderful places to raise a family. From those whose roots are deeply sown into the traditional industries of logging and fishing, to those who’ve come for the diverse opportunities offered here, the Discovery Passage is filled with people of all ages who love to share their community with visitors.

A typical summer Sunday could including strolling through the Pier Street Market, visiting the Discovery Passage Aquarium, enjoying an ice cream cone, or casting a rod into the ocean from the pier itself. As you watch for orcas and humpback whales, a pod of Pacific white-sided dolphins may swim by; all a part of everyday life in Campbell River.

For a long walk or family-friendly bike ride, the Rotary Seawalk and Tyee Spit offer free, safe, and spectacular routes for ocean viewing and people watching. Spirit Square downtown often has live music and entertainment, and is a great way to check out some local talent with family and friends.

With a plethora of marine-based activities to choose from, visitors and residents actively and passively soak up the salty air and fresh water spray, often in the same day. Local fishing, sea kayaking, whale watching, snorkeling, paddling, and diving guides 42 | WWW.CAMPBELLRIVER.TRAVEL

know the waters and tides intimately and delight in sharing their passions with curious minds of all ages. Self-guided activities such as paddling the Campbell River estuary, swimming and boating in McIvor Lake, dashing through Splash Park in Willow Point Park, exploring the Upana Caves, and canoeing Main Lakes on Quadra Island, offer more ways to get out and experience our coastal community. For the land enthusiast, hike or bike through the Beaver Lodge Lands, Snowden Demonstration Forest, or Elk Falls Provincial Park.

While the occasional downpour doesn’t slow local enthusiasm for outdoor exploration, it’s nice to know that the Nuyumbalees Cultural Centre on Quadra Island, The Museum at Campbell River, the Maritime Heritage Centre, Quinsam Hatchery, and the Zeballos Heritage Museum, are great places to visit rain or shine.

Families of all ages and abilities can explore and thrive in this awe-inspiring region of Vancouver Island. Locals and visitors share in the opportunity to be a part of the experiences that foster human connection and appreciation for the natural wonders of our coastal communities.

WORDS BY LAUREL SLISKOVIC PHOTO BY LEE SIMMONS

MIRACLE BEACH PHOTO BY LAUREN HERGT

Community Events January to March Annual Polar Bear Swims at Saratoga & Stories Beach www.visitorcentre.ca Annual Words on the Water Festival at the Maritime Heritage Centre www.wordsonthewater.ca April to June Photographers at Painter’s & Painters at Painters www.painterslodge.com Pier Street Farmer’s Market Sunday’s May through September www.pierstreet.com SeaFest Oyster Festival on Cortes Island www.ourcortes.com Ocean’s Day Aquarium www.discoverypassageaquarium.ca Transformations on the Shore Carving Contest www.crshorelinearts.ca TRANSFORMATIONS ON THE SHORE CARVING COMPETITION

LOGGER SPORTS

Kusam Klimb www.kusamklimb.com July to September Canada Day in Campbell River – Multiple Events www.crcanadaday.com Wings n’ Wheels Show at Campbell River Airport www.crairport.ca River City Arts Festival www.impressionsgallery.ca Pink Salmon Festival www.psf.ca Logger Sports at the Salmon Festival www.crsalmonfestival.com October to December Starlight Shopping & Big Truck Parade www.downtowncampbellriver.com Festival of Trees www.crmuseum.ca

Additional Sources for Events & Festivals Information: Campbell River Spirit Square (Year Round Events) www.spiritsquare.ca Go Campbell River www.gocampbellriver.com Campbell River Visitor Centre info@visitorcentre.ca | www.visitorcentre.ca | 1.877.286.5705

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CANADA DAY FIREWORKS

CAMPBELL RIVER & REGION DISCOVERY GUIDE | 45

We can get you closer to great fishing and adventure

BREATHTAKING

than any other resort on

HEART THUMPING

WOW.

Where To Stay From grit to glamour, the Campbell River area offers wild, West Coast experiences in tandem with high-end resorts. Enjoy your vacation at a rustic wilderness lodge or relax in the lap of luxury at a waterfront resort complete with a first class spa treatment and fine dining experience.

Located on the oceanfront, the Anchor Inn and Suites is an established hotel with 77 rooms and is just a 15 minute walk to town.

Herons Landing offers a boutique hotel experience and is tastefully decorated with European antiques. The Travelodge is also located at the ocean's edge, just minutes from downtown Campbell River.

Next door at the Best Western Austrian Chalet, you’ll find a variety of room styles, from family oriented to executive suites, and a six-hole mini golf course for those travelling with children. The Edgewater is a quaint, family run, eight room motel located right on the water. These are all perfect places to stay if you’re interested in beachcombing with the family or relaxing in the evening while watching the cruise ships sail by. All offer stunning ocean and mountain views and easy access to the beautiful beaches of Campbell River.

In the heart of Campbell River you will find a variety of places to make your stay memorable. The Coast Discovery Inn is conveniently located downtown in the Tyee Plaza and is central to everything that a visitor could possibly need. The Town Centre Inn is, as the name suggests, close to all amenities. Downtown Campbell River is also home to the brand new Comfort Inn & Suites; it has stunning ocean views, is centrally located, and includes pet friendly rooms for those travelling with Fido.

The Heritage River Inn sits on parkland right next to the Campbell River. It’s a perfect spot for the avid fisherman or for anyone seeking a relaxing vacation on the river. The Inn has 44 rooms, some of which are pet friendly, and offers a complimentary breakfast buffet for all guests. The Riverside Motel is also conveniently located near the river.

Just 10 minutes out of town you will find two of Campbell River’s jewels. The rustic and charming Dolphins Resort is a popular destination for weddings and group events as well as guided fishing tours. The resort features quiet cabins uniquely decorated with antiques and wood burning fireplaces to make your stay a relaxing and cozy experience.

Not far from Dolphins Resort you will find the world renowned Painter’s Lodge. Resting on the banks of the Discovery Passage, Painter’s Lodge is a favourite with locals and travelers from all over the world. If you’re a nature enthusiast, it’s the perfect spot to book a wildlife watching tour or fishing trip. If you simply want to relax, you will find the perfect ocean view cabin or suite.

A short water taxi ride connects Painter’s Lodge with neighbouring April Point Resort and Spa on Quadra Island.

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A range of resorts can be found on Quadra Island. The Heriot Bay Inn, adjacent to the Cortes Island Ferry Terminal, is full of rich history. Whiskey Point Resort is a hillside destination, perfect for the busy family. Taku Resort and Marina offers rustic cabins set in a serene and natural setting. Gowlland Harbour Resort was featured in National Geographic Travel’s ’50 Places of a Lifetime: Canada for a good reason - it’s the perfect, private spot for a family holiday or a quiet romantic getaway. On Cape Mudge near the lighthouse, you will find the Tsa-Kwa-Luten Lodge, which was built by the Laichwiltach people on the land that their ancestors lived, hunted, and fished on. Tsa-Kwa-Luten means “gathering place” in the Kwak'wala language and as you gather there with your own friends and family you will find yourself entranced by a deep spiritual presence.

For a private escape with a small group, or a longer-term stay, the Campbell River area offers a range of cabins and RV parks. If you desire a seaside locale, head to Salmon Point RV Park. Both Salmon Point and the nearby Pacific Playgrounds are located right on the water and are the perfect spots for a family holiday. Oyster Bay Resorts offers 20 rustic chalets and a hall that can accommodate weddings and other events. For a more secluded respite, Brown’s Bay and Robert’s Lake reside just north of town and are both set in a beautiful, natural wilderness that will relax and rejuvenate you.

Driftwood By the Sea is located in the heart of town across from the ocean and is only a 15 minute walk along the ocean to downtown.

RV sites can also be found at Parkside RV Park, peacefully nestled amongst some of the tallest trees you will ever see. The Thunderbird RV Park, located on the legendary spit, is open year round and has brand new cottages available. Ripple Rock RV Park can be found at Brown’s Bay and has a playground, fishing pier, and horseshoe pits, making it the ultimate family getaway. The popular and familyfriendly We Wai Kai Campground on Quadra Island is located in Drew Harbour and is close to the beautiful Rebecca Spit.

For the intrepid and adventurous there is an abundance of popular campsites near Campbell River as well as some off of the beaten path. Strathcona Park spans an enormous amount of territory across central Vancouver Island and has a myriad of campsites including Loveland Bay, Buttle Lake, and Ralph River. Other popular provincial campsites include Elk Falls, which is close to the city, Morton Lake, located north of town, and Miracle Beach, south of Campbell River.

Whether your favorite home away from home is an ultra-light tent pitched on a sub-alpine ridge, an RV you’ve towed across the country to one of our quaint coastal campgrounds, or a four star resort, the Campbell River region has the perfect accommodation to fit your style.

WORDS BY ROSS BODENMANN DISCOVERY ISLAND LODGE, PHOTO BY BOOMER JERRITT

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SHIPYARD BRIDGE, PHOTO BY BOOMER JERRITT