A host of experiences, ranging from trekking and diving to bird watching, surfing and cultural tours can be found in Papua New Guinea (PNG) – a destination rich with natural and adventure-based attractions. It’s a South Pacific country often overlooked by New Zealand travellers. According to key PNG tourism operators, that’s due to a general lack of awareness of the destination and what it has to offer – along with the slightly higher cost of getting there, compared to other countries in the South Pacific. But there is much to appeal to an adventurous Kiwi market. PNG is linguistically the most complex nation in the world with more than 800 distinct languages spoken. The rugged terrain of the mainland and more than 600 islands offshore means tribes have developed in geographic isolation also ensuring original cultures have been preserved. So, clients travelling to PNG can have a range of cultural experiences, particularly if they travel to the Highlands. For trekking enthusiasts there are many treks to choose from including the Kokoda Track, probably PNG’s best-known attraction. Kokoda Track Authority (KTA) CEO
Rod Hillman said the Kokoda Track is the most important land-based attraction in PNG. He said it has traditionally been Australians visiting PNG to trek to test themselves and to acknowledge the sacrifice their soldiers made there during World War Two when the Australians fought the Japanese. “As a trekker going through a place of enormous significance – it’s a living, breathing, cultural experience. “The Kokoda Track was there as a way for people to travel when the Japanese were here during the war – it was the last line of defence. It is incredibly important to the Aussie psyche.” The KTA has made many safety improvements to the track, providing first-aid training to all the porters and guides and there are also new licence requirements – meaning all operators must be licensed. “It reassures trekkers there is a guaranteed minimum standard.” There have been more base-station radios installed in each of the villages along the way. Hillman said they are starting to see a few more Kiwis travel to PNG to take on the track. There has also been a major discovery on the track this year – the Lost Battlefields. It is a battlefield on
Manus Kavieng New Ireland
Vanimo Wewak
Sandaun
East Sepik Enga
Mandang Western Highlands
Southern Highlands Western
Chimbu
the Kokoda Track that no one has been to since 1942. “There are artifacts of war lying everywhere – it is believed to be the only pristine war site left in the world,” Hillman said. Currently work is being done with the local community to see how to get trekkers in there. “For the majority of people who come to do the trek they come for the pilgrimage and leave with an understanding of the culture, it’s an empowering experience.” Hillman said agents can promote the Kokoda Track to clients by showing them it is an opportunity to undertake a top ten trekking experience in the world. “And never underestimate the benefit you bring to the lives of the people who live there. “There have been close to 4000 trekkers this year. And it’s hugely important to the local economy.” PNG Trekking Adventures’ Pam Christy said the Kiwi market is quite hard to tap into – especially since New Zealand has its own adventure activities and it is quite expensive to get to PNG. She said combining diving, culture and trekking is an attractive option, creating a package so people get a good overview of everything in PNG. “The landscape is so raw, there is nowhere else in the world like it.” Christy said some of the areas on the treks are still very isolated. For example, on a trek recently, an Australian man went through a village
East New Britain
West New Britain
Bougainville
Morobe Eastern Highlands
where the locals had never seen European people. “It’s a humbling experience and the culture is so vibrant, especially the Highlands traditional dress. There is nothing like it in the South Pacific.” Christy, a Kiwi herself, said awareness of the Kokoda Track needs to be raised among the trade here because Kiwis just don’t know about it. She said the treks are not cheap to do, simply because of the logistics, but are well worth it. “People travelling to PNG tend to be in their early 40s to 60s – clients with more disposable income.” And while it is expensive to get to PNG and to fly domestically around the country, the on-ground costs are cheap. “It is an amazing country; it is one of the last unexplored countries in the world. It is very untouched.” PNG Trekking Adventures is not working with anyone in New Zealand at the moment, but agents can contact the company direct to book its tours and earn commission. PNG is also widely recognised as having some of the best scuba diving in the world and visitors can dive all year-round in PNG. Diving Association PNG’s Max Benjamin and owner of Walindi Plantation Resort said PNG is located right in the middle of what is known as the coral triangle, which has the highest diversity of tropical marine life. “That means PNG just about has it all in terms of marine life and that’s what makes diving in PNG so special. “People come to PNG for the diving and then travel around and do side trips to the Highlands for cultural tours.” Benjamin said agents can push PNG’s world-class dive resorts to clients and contact Dive Fish Snow to book.
Gulf Trobiand Islands Port Moresby Northern National Capital
KEY:
Bird Watching
Central
Cruising
Alotau Milne Bay
Diving
Fishing
Kite Surfing
Surfing
Trekking
SUNSET AT TUFI Published by Managing Editor Gordon Gillan Journalist Chloe de Ridder Graphic Design Amber Renée Hobbs
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The secret of the South Pacific
UNDERWATER DIVING
IN PNG
Franco Banfi
PNG’s top 10 appeals 1. DISCOVER PNG’S CULTURE
6. MOUNTAIN CLIMBING
With more than 750 cultural groups and more than 850 languages there are plenty of colourful tribes for clients to meet – they could attend the Mt Hagen festival or Mask Festival and join in a ‘sing sing’ with the locals.
The view across to the coast from the summit of Mt Wilhelm is well worth the climb. PNG’s highest mountain is 4509m and is part of the Bismarck Range. The ascent is relatively easy. The track goes through remote areas and offers a great insight into the true PNG culture.
2. GO TREKKING Besides the famous Kokoda Track, PNG offers plenty of other tracks which require different levels of fitness. There is the Lark Force Track on East New Britain which offers just as much World War Two history, but is less demanding. Or, if clients are up for the challenge, the Black Cat Track is said to require halfmarathon fitness level.
7. CATCH A BLACK BASS Clients can fish in pristine waters and try to catch the famous black bass and barramundi, found in just about any of PNG’s coastal areas. The scenery makes PNG one of world’s best fishing destinations.
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3. EXPLORE UNDERWATER
HULI WIGM AN
Diving in PNG offers 50 to 150 feet visibility to explore untouched coral reefs and marine life including reef sharks, pelagic fish, hammerheads, barracuda, manta rays as well as World War Two wrecks (tanks, downed US bombers and Japanese Zeros) all in 28 degree Celsius waters.
8. KAYAKING There are plenty of options for all experience levels; clients can paddle from New Ireland along a chain of remote exotic islands, to New Hanover. There, they can visit the people living on these islands. Kayaking in PNG offers many cultural experiences, including village stays.
4. SURFING UNCROWDED BREAKS To ensure the sustainable development of surf tourism in PNG, there is a management plan in place allowing only a maximum of 20 surfers per surf break at any one time. So, surfers are more than likely to have a wave to themselves.
WATERFAL L NE AR MT
HAGEN
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5. BIRD WATCHING There are more than 600 different species of birds including 38 species of the 43 Birds of Paradise in PNG, making it a must-do for the fanatic bird watcher. Both on the mainland as well as on the PNG islands species can be found unique to that particular area.
9. EXPEDITION CRUISING Clients can discover PNG’s remote areas and culture by cruising.
10. KITE SURFING With consistent 18-25 knot winds in some parts and kilometres of untouched reef breaks, kite surfing in PNG is a must. There are wave riders and blue lagoons for the flat water specialists. The prime breaks and the warm water combined with the Larubada trade wind mean kite surfing conditions are ideal.
Birds of paradise River area are an important area for migratory birds on their journey from their northern breeding grounds to their wintering grounds in the Southern Hemisphere. Some of these migratory birds include the curlew sandpiper and ruddy turnstone, which breed in Arctic Siberia and the yellow wagtail, which breeds in Eurasia. This is also barramundi country and Bensbach Wildlife Lodge Caters for the serious angler as well as those who just want to drop a line into the water for fun. The lodge has eight twin rooms with comfortable accommodation for 16 guests. Bensbach Wildlife Lodge is accessible by charter. Contact Trans Niugini Tours for a quote.
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Papua New Guinea is a bird watchers’ paradise with many locations throughout the country where clients can see different species of birds, including the varieties of the famous Birds of Paradise – which are found only in PNG. Trans Niugini Tours run bird watching tours in PNG. Located in the Tonda Wildlife Management Area, Bensbach Wildlife Lodge is near the border with West Papua – in the remote and sparsely populated south-west corner of PNG. There are flood plains where wildlife such as deer, wallabies, monitor lizards, crocodiles, cassowaries, sea eagles, pygmy geese and a host of other mammals and birds can be seen. The flood plains of the Bensbach
PNG BIRDS
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24 hours in Port Moresby HERE ARE SOME IDEAS: Markets: Gordon’s Market, on Gordon Court Road off the end of Cameron Road, is one of the largest in the country and always bustling. There is a great range of fresh fruit and vegetables, while fish and exotic meats are also available. For the best seafood, advise clients visit Koki market on the waterfront near the Koki shops. The Koki Market is the main seafood market and is a hive of activity on Saturdays.
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Parliament House: Built in the style of a Maprik Haus Tambaran (house of spirits), the building was opened in 1984. Parliament
FRESH WATER TROU T
House is an interesting place for clients to visit whether parliament is sitting or not. A small shop in the building has books and displays of Papua New Guinea’s butterflies. Open 0900 to 1200 and 1300 to 1500.
National Botanical Gardens: The National Botanical Gardens has two km of boardwalk threading beneath a jungle canopy, green lawns, wildlife displays and a huge collection of orchids. A shadehouse in the shape of the country has plants from all regions. The gardens are located just beyond the University of Papua New Guinea on Waigani Drive. An entrance fee is applicable.
on the Sogeri Road not far from the Sir Hubert Murray Highway.
Hiri Moale Festival: Celebrating the traditional trading that took place along the coast, the Hiri Moale Festival is celebrated midSeptember, around Independence Day. The festival involves replicas of the lakatois (giant canoes), singing and dancing. National Museum and Art Gallery:
views of Port Moresby and the surrounding harbour, clients should head to Paga Hill, behind the Crowne Plaza or Touaguba Hill above the harbour. A tour of the city should include these lookout points as well as the stilt villages of Hanuabada Poreporena.
Located on Independence Hill, close to Parliament House, the National Museum and Art Gallery has displays of fauna, culture, geography, ethnography and history of Papua New Guinea which include examples of masks and shields, shells and local foods. A small courtyard in front of the museum is a place for visitors to sit, while taking in the local wildlife. The small bookshop has a limited range of books on pre-history and culture. Open Monday to Friday 0830 to 1530 and 1300 to 1700 on Sundays. Admission is by donation.
Bomana War Cemetery: Thousands of young Australian and Papua New Guinean soldiers are buried in this carefully tended World War Two cemetery, which is a reminder of the campaigns in the region. The cemetery is located
Access and entry fees: Most land, beaches, lagoons, bays and islands in Papua New Guinea, are owned by a village, family or individual. Clients must ask permission for access and a small entry fee may be payable.
City and harbour views: For
HIRI MOALE QUEEN AT PORT MORESBY
COLOURS AND FESTIVITIES Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea’s capital and the main entry point, is a place of contrasts. During the winter months the National Capital District is dry, dusty and brown, while summer is wet, humid and overgrown. The annual Hiri Moale festival held every September celebrates one of the trading voyages between central province villagers and the people in the Gulf of Papua New Guinea. The event is a three-day festival of traditional dance, singing and drama. During the festivities, Port Moresby’s Ela Beach is lined with stilt houses, canoes and swaying dancers decorated with leis of frangipani and hibiscus. Equally colourful is the display of native orchids found at the National Botanical Gardens. The collection of more than three thousand orchid species, distinct to Papua New Guinea, is the largest in the Southern Hemisphere. The orchids flower all year round, with peak flowering season for most being between December and March.
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Surf the uncrowded waves Papua New Guinea is quite new as a destination for surf enthusiasts, but the breaks are becoming known for providing a great challenge and being free from too many other surfers. On the southern side of PNG, 10 minutes out of Port Moresby, is Sero Board Riders Club (Taurama Point) where the main barrier reef stretches along the southern seaboard all the way to the Milne Bay Province. The Surfing Association PNG’s development of surf tourism has also resulted in an unprecedented approach to the creation of an equitable and sustainable surf tourism model. Surf in PNG is subject to the wet/dry season cycle. Southeast trade winds dominate from November and waves range from three to six-feet during this time, with the best waves in the early morning. Hula Beach, 100km to the east of Port Moresby, is a great spot. Other surfing spots in PNG are around the Milne Bay area, Bougainville Island and the Gazelle Peninsula in East New Britain, which has waves ranging from three to six-feet along the coral atolls, including point and
WAVE BREAKING ON A PNG ATOLL
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beach breaks. The Northern side of PNG also has good surfing locations, with waves on the mainland and offshore islands generated by the monsoon swell peaking from mid-November through to late April. There are consistent waves in Vanimo which range from beach breaks, point and island reef breaks. Accommodation and transport is available from Vanimo Beach Hotel, Sandaun Motel and Vanimo Surf Club located at Vanimo’s premier surf location at Lido village. Around Kavieng in New Ireland Province are numerous reef setups which provide varying surf breaks. Just off Kavieng town is the environmentally low-impact Nusa Island Retreat, which provides accommodation, meals and boat transport to the surrounding islands. Nusa Island Retreat limits the number of surfers staying at any one time and is often fully-booked during the surf season. There are a variety of surf tour operators for bookings to surf destinations in PNG. For more information, see: http://www.surfingpapuanewguinea.org.pg.
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If clients have a day to spend in Port Moresby, there are a range of attractions to keep them busy.
the peaks of Mt Giluwe and Mt Lalibu (both volcanic plugs) are accessible for trekkers. Mt Hagen, Mt Ongo, Mt Kubor and Mt Kine Kaino Ku are also all accessible tracks and both the Bismarck and Kubor Ranges offer great trekking. Goroka is also a centre for several good climbs with Mt Michael and Mt Gahavisuka being accessible. If clients are after a serious trekking experience, they can take the route from the highlands town of Kompiam in Enga province to the Yuat River in East Sepik province. From here, canoes will take them to Angoram. This 15-day hard trek is only for the most experienced, fit trekkers and several tour companies are available to assist trekkers during their expedition. It is recommended to trek with a guide on all the treks in PNG.
CAMP SITE – KOKODA TRACK
Colin Taimbari
Papua New Guinea has long been a popular destination for trekking, mountain climbing and bushwalking and is home to the world-famous Kokoda Track. It has largely unspoilt mountains, rivers and forest, as well as many significant War relic sites. There’s something for every level of fitness, from professional tour operators and overnight treks, through to scenic bush walks that take a few hours. The Highlands region is famous for its tall mountains, with readily accessible peaks. Mt Wilhelm at 4509m is the most popular target for PNG mountain climbers with good road access to Kegsugl village from Kundiawa and National Park huts for climbers to stay in. While being accessible, Mt Wilhelm is not easy and guides should always be taken to assist climbers. From the central Highlands city of Mt Hagen,
Colin Taimbari
Trekking and climbing
EIORA CREEK – KOKODA TRACK
THE SUMMIT OF MT WILHELM
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TREKS BLACK CAT TRACK (Wau to Salamaua)
MT WILHELM 4509m above sea level
LARK FORCE WILDERNESS TRACK (Bainings area to Open Bay)
The Black Cat Track runs between Salamaua and Wau in the Morobe Province. It is a forgotten World War Two trail that passes through difficult and hazardous terrain. It includes river crossings, swamps, cliffs, trees that are fallen, moss-covered rocks and treacherous ledges. This makes the Black Cat one of the toughest tracks in PNG – and in the world.
The Mount Wilhelm climb is able to be undertaken by fit bushwalkers and takes climbers to the summit of the highest mountain in PNG, with great views both north and south. The track is a simple footpath through the forest floor, with log steps and other simple construction in some places and is often undertaken over two days.
The Lark Force Wilderness Track is an adventure experience that covers trekking through the mountain ranges of Baining in East New Britain Province. The trek experience was named in honour of the Australian millitary garrison who were left to escape a superior Japanese army during their occupation of Rabaul in January 1942. This trek leads clients down a path that gives them appreciation for the Baining culture tthat exists along the track.
The Kokoda Track is 96km of bush track that crosses one of the most rugged mountainous terrains in the world, passing through 19 villages from Kokoda to Owers Corner, or in the reverse direction. On average, it takes between six to 10 days to walk the entire track – depending on the itinerary chosen and the fitness of the trackers. The track can be wet and muddy, the climbs steep and the descents slippery and threatening. It is where rivers and creeks flood their banks in the wet season but it could be dry, hot and humid in the dry season. The Track boasts picturesque campsites, each located near freshwater creeks in small clearings of well-kept lawns with rainforest trees that offer protective covering. Temperatures drop in the evenings but the mist and fog in the morning lift slowly as the sun breaks through the canopy of the jungle. There are great views of the Owen Stanley Ranges from the various lookouts. It was along the entire length of the Kokoda track that some of the bloodiest and decisive land
battles of the Second World War were fought. It is not easy to walk the track, nor is it one that is recommended for the faint-hearted, although in recent times, a disabled person has completed the entire track from Kokoda through to Owers Corner and an 86-year-old man also completed his dream of doing the Kokoda Track. For many travellers, it is a dream to make this personal pilgrimage to re-live the difficult years of the war. The Kokoda Track Authority (KTA) manages the track, including administration of trekking permits, co-coordinating activities on the track and distributing funds to communities. Officially the trekking season starts around May and ends in mid November. Trek permits are available from the office of the KTA, located on the third floor of the Brian Bell Plaza in Okari Street Boroko in Port Moresby City. KTA issues both individual and group permits. 2010 permit fees for international trekkers are K300 per adult and K150 per student/child. Village
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KOKODA TR ACK FROM
THE AIR
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What is the Kokoda Track? psites cost K20 K20 per night i guesthouses or campsites for a trekker and K5 for guide/porter. Guides/porters’ wages average K80 to K100 per day. There are VHF/FM radio base stations located in villages along the track which maintain contact between villages and the centres in Port Moresby, Popondetta, Kokoda and Sogeri (including tour operators). It is recommended that trekkers carry a satellite phone for emergency use. Tour operator-guided tracks usually carry handheld radios, first aid kits and sometimes satellite phones. Clients can trek the Kokoda Track either on their own or with a tour operator. The KTA does not encourage trekkers to walk without a tour operator, because of safety concerns. There’s currently no number restriction system limiting trekkers.
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SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS PROVINCE Traditional cultures thrive here, particularly in the Tari Basin, where the Huli and Duna Wigmen are famous for their elaborately decorated wigs and body art. These warriors have a reverence for birds, imitating them in ceremonial dances and decorating their wigs with feathers, flowers and cuscus fur. Their faces are painted with yellow and ochre and the women, by contrast, wear black for their wedding and coat themselves with blue-grey clay when mourning. Clans in the Southern Highlands have a strong and intricate social system little affected by change. It is one of the few places where the traditional way of life can be seen in everyday living. Visitors to the Southern Highlands can stay in a variety of accommodation from basic guesthouses to luxurious mountain lodges.
WESTERN HIGHLANDS PROVINCE
HIGHLAND HEADDRESS
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The capital city, Mt Hagen, is a busy commercial
centre where wealth from coffee and tea plantations has brought rapid change to traditional lifestyle. Old and new ways live together, not always harmoniously. Mt Hagen has a reputation as the wild frontier of the Highlands. The Saturday market in Mt Hagen is a focal point of local life and provides a meeting place for traders from all over the province. The men traditionally wear a long beard and the women wear brilliant scarves and carry brightly coloured string bags – used to carry everything from babies to firewood. Sing Sings are held regularly throughout the province. The most popular time to visit is the third weekend in August, when the annual Mount Hagen Show is held. Hundreds of different Highland tribes are represented, each wearing their distinctive tribal head dresses of feathers and flowers and body paint. Air Niugini provides flights to Kagamuga Airport from Port Moresby. They also provide connections to Mt Hagen from other centres in PNG.
TUFI BOY WITH HIS FISHING CATCH
Dropping a line
EASTERN HIGHLANDS PROVINCE With a history of gold mines and coffee plantations, the Eastern Highlands Province has had more exposure to European influence than any of the other Highlands provinces. The province has a history full of colourful characters, including miners, missionaries, patrol officers and plantation owners. Traditional dress is seldom worn these days, although the Highlanders still live in villages of clusters of lowwalled, round huts built amongst the rolling kunaigrass covered hills. Goroka, a small outpost station in the 1950s, has developed into a well-organised town with modern facilities. It is a major Highlands commercial centre of 25,000 people. It has become known for its annual show, held every September – an opportunity for clients to gain an overview of PNG’s cultural diversity. There are also yearly festivals held in the province – the PNG Coffee Festival and Trade Fair which started in 2001 is held every May, while each year on Independence Day in mid-September, thousands of painted and traditionally-costumed tribes people come together for a huge Sing Sing.
AMBUA LODGE, SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS
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The people of Papua New Guinea are mostly descendants of the Papuans – Melanesians closely related to the islanders of Fiji, New Caledonia and Vanuatu. Today there are 5,130,560, people living in PNG – more than a third of them in the rugged Highlands. PNG’s culture is extremely diverse and within each region visitors will experience a variety of ancient traditions. The traditional Melanesian cultures – more than 200 have been identified – are kept alive in rituals that accompany deaths, feasts, marriages, compensation ceremonies and initiation rites. Visitors to country areas, especially the Highlands, will often find local variations in village construction, dialect and dress. Cultural heritage is celebrated at the annual Sing Sing shows, where villagers from around the country demonstrate their singing, dancing and elaborate bilas (traditional costumes). The shows at Goroka and Mount Hagen are among the country’s most impressive, attracting thousands of spectators to PNG each year.
Papua New Guinea is teeming with isolated fishing grounds and untouched rivers offering anglers a variety of world-class fishing. In dense jungle rivers, the mighty ‘lureshy’ Papua New Guinea black bass will challenge any angler. Another is the river tiger, found nowhere else in the world. Or, if clients are after a less challenging fishing adventure, they could try out the Barramundi and one option is a stay at the remote Bensbach Lodge, near the border of Irian Jaya. With river fishing, clients have the opportunity to meet the locals and relax on the river. Or, for those who prefer the ocean, PNG’s Bismarck and the Archipelago Seas are littered with challenging catches such as dogtooth tuna, sailfish, yellow fin tuna, marlin and plenty more. The coastal waters around the Madang, East and West New Britain and New Ireland areas abound in blue and black marlin, sailfish and dogtooth tuna. In the waterways near Kandrian, freshwater fisherman can take on the famous Papuan black and spot tail bass found only in PNG, as well as saratogo and ox eye herring. M.V. Talio is operated out of Madang by owner and skipper Brett Middleton and has state-of-the-art equipment, from 8kg to 60kg tackle and electronics including radar, GPS and a top of the range sounder. It has a maximum speed of 29 knots. Clients can combine a Talio Madang adventure with a trip to Arrjim Island Bass Fishing Camp, on the remote south coast of West New Britain. This area is known for its black and spottail bass. There are a range of specialist fishing itineraries available, contact your preferred wholesaler for more details.
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Home is the Highlands
Experience world-class diving
REEF PROTECTION While the reefs teem with life in many shapes and colours, they are very fragile. Most dive operators promote the use of moorings on regularly dived sites. Divers are encouraged to practise sensible diving and respect the underwater environment – and the message to all divers is to look and enjoy the reefs, but don’t touch.
DIVE MADANG Clients can dive in Madang with a package from Dive Fish Snow. For $2325 pp twin share, ex- Auckland, the package includes return airfares ex Auckland, seven nights’ twin share accommodation, a six-day dive package and return airport transfers. Taxes are not included, which cost approximately $272.
Sea is Eastern Fields, a submerged atoll rising over 1200m and covering some 400sq miles.
Tufi is an ancient volcanic area and offers a variety of diving experiences from the fjords to war wrecks. Black Rocks are a series of circular reefs offering all levels of diving. Constant visibility of 30m plus and water temperatures of 26°C to 29°C all year round.
diving in PNG and the most popular. It has great reef and wreck diving. Diving along the coast is famous for its coral gardens and good visibility. Madang was the centre of heavy fighting during World War II and there are 34 sunken ships to explore at Hansa Bay, near Bogia. The town has modern urban facilities, including hotels, department stores, markets and artefact shops.
Kavieng – Albatross Passage. At an incoming tide this narrow passage has eagle rays, mobula rays, big dogtooth tunas, barracudas, plenty of grey reef sharks and loads of other fish can be seen here on almost every dive. Planet Channel is one of the best dives in Kavieng – pelagic fish including barracudas, jacks, eagle rays and sharks, soft corals, gorgonian fans plus a selection of small critters.
Franco Banfi
West Madang is one of the oldest areas for
DIVING IN PNG
DIVING IN THE RABA
UL HABOUR
Franco Banfi
Papua New Guinea is located in the middle of what is known as the coral triangle, meaning a high diversity of tropical fish, and making it one of the best dive destinations of the world. The coast of PNG is dubbed as the ‘underwater photographer’s paradise’, with many international award-winning photos being taken in PNG waters. All dive operators offer dive instruction, scuba gear hire and a range of other services. Clients can dive year-round, the optimal season generally being from midApril to mid-June and mid-September to mid-December. Water temperatures range from 26°C along the edge of the Coral Sea and up to 31°C in the Bismarck Sea, with visibility from 50 to 150 feet. Clients can see everything from pygmy seahorses, dense red sea whips, ridges crammed with soft and hard corals, invertebrates, garden eels and plenty of fish – large pelagics, clownfish, tropical reef fish, turtles, schools of barracuda and a few grey whalers patrolling the reefs. For clients’ added safety there is a recompression chamber in Port Moresby.
Rabaual is one of the oldest areas for diving and has good reef and critter diving. Lots of wrecks are there, as it was a Japanese submarine haven in World War Two. Submarine Base is a site with a vertical wall plunging 300m into waters where clients will see a myriad of schools of tropical fish, pelagics, sharks and dugongs, nudibranches, shrimps, eels and many hued corals. Bi Plane Peter is a Mitsubishi World War Two Japanese spotter aircraft which stands upright in 27m of water and is in excellent condition. Clients can see colourful corals above with a wealth of marine life including moray eels, featherstars and puffer fish.
PNG’S BEST DIVE SPOTS: Milne Bay is located on the eastern end of PNG. Divers head there for the wreckage left behind from the war. The best way to enjoy Milne Bay diving is aboard one of the live-aboard dive boats based out of Alotau, the provincial headquarters. The 60 foot MV Chertan can comfortably accommodate up to 14 divers. Port Moresby is known for having some of the best capital city diving in the world. Susie’s Bommie is famous for its schooling golden sweetlips and batfish among the colourful tropical fish and coral. At 12-30m this bommie is situated on white sand. Located 90m south-west of Port Moresby in the Coral
Kimbe Bay – an area most famous for its pristine reef. More than half the world’s species of coral can be found in Kimbe Bay. Pristine and colourful corals are home to a variety of fish, crustacean and invertebrate life. Many of the reefs have resident schools of barracuda, tuna and jacks. A range of shark species are regularly sighted, including hammerheads and silvertips, particularly on the offshore reefs. A short boat ride from shore is Susan’s Reef, the perfect coral garden. Fathers Reefs are a series of off shore reefs which are the sunken remains of a huge extinct volcanic caldera. There are two dive boats based in Kimbe Bay that go out to the islands – and which also get based in Rabaul.
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PNG travel toolkit GETTING THERE Papua New Guinea has one international airport in Port Moresby, Jackson’s International Airport. Air Niugini (PX) operates from both Brisbane and Cairns to Port Moresby and also from Nadi to POM. BNE is 12 times a week using a combination of B767 and F100 aircraft, while CNS is 10 times a week using either F100 or DH4 aircraft. NAN-POM is twiceweekly using F100 aircraft. PX has a fare with Air New Zealand over BNE or CNS priced at $2020 return excluding taxes from AKL,WLG and CHC. PX also has a fare with Air Pacific via NAN from $1599 return excluding taxes from AKL only. PX also has wholesale net fares ex Australia to PNG and these are available via select wholesalers here. PX is represented by the Walshe Group. Qantas also has a codeshare arrangement with Air Niugini. The Virgin group also offer onestop services using Pacific Blue (DJ) to BNE and then on to POM. The B737-800 BNE to POM service is four times weekly (Mon, Wed, Fri and Sun) in each direction with same-day connections available.
and an airline ticket with confirmed outbound flights before expiry date of their Visa. Please check with the Papua New Guinea High Commission in Wellington.
AIRPORT Jackson’s International Airport is the gateway of PNG, situated about 8km from the main town centre of Port Moresby. Mt Hagen Provincial Airport has been declared an International Port of entry because of the mining activities around the Highland provinces. PNG relies on air transport more than most other countries in the world due to its rugged terrain, extending from its coastal areas to its highlands. PX operates 18 domestic routes and Airlines of Papua New Guinea has more than 400 scheduled and charter flights per week.
CURRENCY PNG’s unit of currency is the Kina which is divided into 100 toea. Daily exchange rates are listed in banks, newspapers and hotels. Clients can exchange their money at Jackson’s Airport or in banks, open from 0900 to 1500 Monday – Thursday and 0900 – 1600 on Fridays.
CREDIT CARDS A 60-day Tourist Visa is available on arrival in Port Moresby for K100, approximately $48. To obtain a visa before entering the country, the cost is K75, approximately $36. Clients will need travel documents, sufficient funds for their stay in the country
Hotels, restaurants, shops, rental car companies, cruise operators and travel agents accept most major credit cards including Amex, Diners, MasterCard and Visa.
VALUE ADDED TAX (VAT) All transactions within hotels,
BUSINESS HOURS Commercial firms: Monday to Friday – 0800 – 1630 or 1700. Saturday 0800 – 12 noon. Government hours: Monday to Friday – 0745 – 1600.
EVENTS Throughout the year there are festivals and shows being held around the country. See: http:// www.pngtourism.org.pg/packages/ cultural-events/ for a festival and event calendar.
CLIMATE Ranging from warm, to hot and humid throughout the year. There is a rainy season, which varies from province to province, but in general it’s driest from May to December. Advise clients pack sunscreen and watch out for sunburn, particularly in the Highlands, even on overcast days.
DRESS Informal and casual, however thongs, sneakers and sandshoes are not allowed in some bars and restaurants. In the Highlands, sturdy walking shoes are recommended, as well as a sweater or jacket for cool evenings. Female dress should always be modest.
Transportation is mostly by air across PNG. A good network of roads connects the northern zone and the Highlands region. There are also rental cars, local boats and ferries, taxis in larger towns, plus local buses. There is no road link between the northern zone and the capital, Port Moresby, because of the rugged nature of the terrain.
VOLTAGE Electrical current is 240 volts. The type of plug that electrical appliances use in PNG is the same as here. Some hotels provide 110 volt outlets in guest rooms for shavers and hair dryers.
HEALTH REQUIREMENTS Malaria is the only serious health risk. Visitors are strongly advised to consult their local doctor or tropical disease clinic for anti-malarial preparations before arrival. Water quality is within World Health Organisation standards in most towns. Bottled water is available. In rural areas it is advised to boil water at all times.
MEDICAL SERVICES Dental, doctors and hospital services are available in all major centres. Medical clinics and aid posts are found in remote areas and several hospitals are privately owned.
TIPPING
TIME ZONE
Tips are neither expected nor encouraged.
PNG is 10 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT).
OVERLOOKING RABAUL HARBOUR
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TRANSPORT
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VISAS
restaurants and bars are subject to 10 per cent tax, which is included in published prices.
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