club ONLY R20 (INCL VAT)
JUNE 2018
Club member exclusive
EDGARS CLUB MAGAZINE JUNE 2018 EDGARSCLUB.CO.ZA
SAVE ON FLIGHTS AND HOLIDAYS
SKIN SAVERS
BEAUTY BUYS FOR COLDER WEATHER
THE SHINING
TRAVEL TO MAGICAL MOROCCO
GLOSSY LIPS ARE BACK!
WINTER WONDERS
STREET-STYLE FASHION, COOL CLASSICS AND DARING DETAILS
M ADE IN
MOROCCO Explore the timeless charms of this North African destination with its wealth of culture, history, medieval architecture and natural beauty. By Mariola Jakutowicz FouchĂŠ
L I V E T R AV E L
F
or its small geographic footprint, Morocco has a surprisingly diverse terrain that stretches from the red dunes of the Sahara in the east to its rocky North Atlantic coastline in the west, with the spectacular Atlas range running its length like a spine. Add a legacy of ancient Arabic design, fascinating museums, delectable cuisine and colourful markets, and you’re in for a memorable holiday that’s doable in 10 days. THE MAGIC OF MARRAKECH
ABOVE: The cobalt-hued Art Deco home of artist Jacques Majorelle looks out over the popular Majorelle Gardens in Marrakech, Morocco. Today it houses the Berber Museum. RIGHT: Marrakech’s spice market is a feast for the senses.
First-timers would do well to spend their first two days in this cultural capital. Once you’ve passed through the elegantly contemporary Menara Airport, prepare for a complete contrast when you reach the city’s chaotic heart and soul – the ancient walled section, or medina, famed for its rosy façades and bustling souks. For an authentic stay, check into one of the many hidden riads (traditional guesthouses), where you can soak up some courtyard tranquillity over a glass of mint tea – a standard welcome ritual anywhere in Morocco – before heading out. The tangle of alleyways can be tricky to navigate solo, so opt for a guided walk through the medina’s highlights, kicking off at the main square, Djemaa el-Fna, with its juice vendors, snake charmers and henna tattoo artists. En route, you’ll have had to step aside for a host of mopeds, donkey carts and bicycles, with merchants plying their wares from all sides.
EDGARSCLUB.CO.ZA
65
66
CLOCKWISE, FROM ABOVE: Riads range from the comfortable to the luxurious; the modern terracotta façade of Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech in Guéliz; djellaba-clad locals go about their business at the central market in Chefchaouen; a Moroccan breakfast features flatbread, honey or jam, cheese and olives with strong coffee or mint tea; Chefchaouen’s medina walls are painted a vibrant blue; take a walk up the Rif hills for a scenic view of the cerulean town.
EDGARS CLUB JUNE 2018
At dusk, the space comes alive with music, entertainers and aromatic food stands. If you look up, you’ll see the towering minaret of 12th-century Koutoubia Mosque dominating the skyline. Spend a peaceful hour at the largest Koranic school (madrasa) in the country, Ben Youssef Medersa, a study in Islamic medieval architecture that features carved stucco arches and elaborate zellige tiles. When you’re ready to shell out your dirhams, visit the souks where tireless artisans have applied their skills for centuries. Here, metalworkers, weavers, tanners and argan-oil extractors produce all manner of crafts for eager shoppers. Dotted among the labyrinthine lanes are a variety of eateries, where you can recover from the pleasant mayhem over a fragrant tagine and couscous, or a glass of wine on the rooftop terrace while savouring a view of the Atlas Mountains. Other sights to take in are the 16th-century Saadian Tombs; the stately ruins and
sunken gardens of El Badi; and Bahia Palace (although built much later, it is another striking example of geometric tile work). Take a taxi to the French colonial side of town for some breathing space. Ville Nouvelle, or Guéliz, is characterised by wide boulevards, cafés, boutiques and upmarket hotels, and it’s home to the new, clean-lined Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech, dedicated to the well-known couturier who was once a committed resident. You can buy joint tickets to the museum and the delightful Jardin Majorelle garden next door, with its iconic cobalt Art Deco abode that houses the Berber Museum. ALL ABOARD FOR FÈS
An eight-hour train ride north of Marrakech is Fès, the most ancient of Morocco’s imperial capitals. Top of the attractions is Fès el-Bali medina, where Bab Boujloud (the Blue Gate) serves as the principal entrance. Nearby you’ll find some quiet riads amid the tight-knit buildings. Compared to Marrakech, Fès medina dwellers are not as ardent about selling their goods – plus, it’s off-limits to cars. A guided tour will help you get your bearings in the vibrant web of covered alleys, which conceal monuments, tiled fountains, jostling souks and
L I V E T R AV E L displays the work of various tribal groups – and be ready to haul out your bargaining skills. On your third day, take a road trip through rolling wheat fields, olive groves and vineyards to see the impressive Roman ruins at Volubilis, about 30km from the town of Meknès. THE BLUE PEARL OF THE NORTH
The popular town of Chefchaouen is an easy day’s excursion from Fès. A threehour drive
north twists through picturesque cedar forests and valleys to this indigo-daubed settlement in the foothills of the Rif Mountains, parallel to the Mediterranean coast. Chefchaouen was once a fortress for Rif-based Berber tribes against Portuguese attacks and was later occupied by Spain. It grew to include Andalusian Muslim and Jewish refugees in the late 1400s, which contributed to its influences (street signs and the favoured second language are Spanish) compared to the other areas of Morocco, where French prevails. It was the Jewish population who transformed the look of the town to its current sky-
hammams (public bath houses). In two days you can visit Nejjarine Square and the Museum of Wood Arts and Crafts, near the carpentry souk in the middle of the medina; Kairaouine Mosque and University, the latter considered the oldest in the world; the Islamic schools Medersa Bou Inania and Medersa Al-Attarine, both architectural gems boasting intricate tiles and ornate stucco work; the pungent Chouara Tannery, where leather is treated in multicoloured dyeing vats; and the pottery district of Ain Nokbi, where you can admire ceramic artistry. If you’re after a handwoven rug, try one of the state-controlled carpet co-ops that
EDGARSCLUB.CO.ZA
L I V E T R AV E L
68
Chefchaouen medina was transformed to its sky-blue hue in the 1930s
EDGARS CLUB JUNE 2018
blue hue in the 1930s. The djellabaclad residents of its small medina are really laid-back, prices are reasonable, and you can’t get lost in this relaxed environment.
IMAGES: MARIOLA JAKUTOWICZ FOUCHÉ
INTO THE DESERT
If that isn’t feast enough for the senses, round off your stay with a three-day journey via the Sahara in the east, ending in Marrakech. Join a tour from Fès that passes through cedar forests and the cool alpine towns of Ifrane and Azrou in the Middle Atlas mountains, where homes typically have pitched roofs to accommodate winter snowfalls. After a stop at fossil-rich Erfoud, you’ll mount camels at Merzouga on a sunset trek across the desert to sleep in a nomadic Berber camp. (Ask your guides – also your entertainers and chefs for the evening – for a serene astronomy lesson atop one of the surrounding dunes.) At dawn it’s back to Merzouga for a ride through the parched wilderness to the lush oases and dramatic gorges of the Dades River Valley. In a palm
ABOVE: 17th-century Kasbah Amridil in Skoura is a sought-after attraction for visitors to the desert. LEFT: A guide at Atlas Studios wears a shesh, the traditional Tuareg turban. BELOW LEFT: Camels trek across the Sahara for an overnight stay in a Berber camp near Merzouga.
PR AC T IC A L M AT T E R S Places to stay: Accommodation varies widely, from traditional riads (guesthouses) to sleek resorts. Stay in the medina for easy access to most sights. Dress code: Attire is pretty much as you please, but to avoid attracting undue attention, respect the modesty of locals and cover up. Currency: Exchange your forex for dirhams at the airport, large hotels or banks. Larger metros have ATMs, but cash is king in the souks. Tipping: Gratuities are a given – for everyone and everything – including photo ops and asking for directions. Haggling: This is expected of you: aim for half the original amount – you’ll get plenty of practice. Transport: Buses, trains and flights are effective, but for a short stay, join up with others on private tours. Hotel staff will happily book your transport.
grove at Skoura lies Kasbah Amridil, an ancient fort that showcases traditional rural life. Stay overnight in a riad before winding back to Marrakech through the magnificent High Atlas mountains, with breaks at the fortified terracotta town of Ksar Aït Benhaddou and Morocco’s ‘Mollywood’ – Atlas Studios – where clips of Game Of Thrones were shot, among other illustrious titles. At 1 000km over three days, it’s a lot of driving, but worth every second for the breadth of experience that always brings visitors back to the Maghreb region. Catch your breath in Marrakech again, and absorb its spicy scents, sights and sounds – you’ll be back for more.
SAVE EXCLUSIVE HOLIDAY OFFERS! EDGARS CLUB MEMBERS GET SAVINGS ON FLIGHTS, ACCOMMODATION, CAR HIRE AND TRAVEL PACKAGES. FOR MORE INFO AND TO FIND OUT WHAT’S ON OFFER THIS MONTH, GO TO EDGARSCLUB.CO.ZA OR FOLLOW US ON FACEBOOK.
EDGARSCLUB.CO.ZA