André Simon 2017 Food and Drink Book Awards

AndrĂŠ Simon 2017

Food and Drink

Book Awards

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ANDRÉ SIMON AWARD SHORTLIST ANNOUNCED! 14th December, 2017 by Rupert Millar!

The shortlist for this year’s André Simon Food & Drink Book Awards has been announced with Victoria Moore, Peter Liem and Dave Broom among those nominated for their drinks books.!

Among the books shortlisted in the drinks category this year are tomes on Champagne, Japanese whisky and beer.!

Those shortlisted are: Robert Walters for his book on Champagne ‘Bursting Bubbles’ and Peter Liem’s own book on Champagne; Pete Brown (nominated last year as well for The Apple Orchard) for Miracle Brew which explores the components behind beer; Dave Broom for The Way of the Whisky which explores Japan’s whisky industry and culture; Thad Vogler’s By the Smoke and the Smell which explores small batch distilleries around the world and Victoria Moore’s Wine Dine Dictionary, a handbook designed to help match wine with food or vice versa.!

Assessing the drinks entries this year was Joe Fattorini who commented: “The shortlisted books reflect the eclectic, cosmopolitan way people drink today with explorations of wine, beer, whiskies, cocktails and Champagne.!

“The quality of the writing was so high that many of these books won’t just appeal to drinks fans; they will captivate anyone who wants a fascinating read. The best books told intensely personal stories that brought together a deep knowledge of the drinks with the emotions of the author and the people they meet.”!

In the food entries are books on Portuguese, Japanese and Palestinian culinary traditions and dishes, the case against sugar, the tale of a run-down pub turned Michelin-starred establishment and the connection between landscapes and ingredients.!

Food assessor, Rachel Cooke, said: “I was amazed by the sheer quantity of very good food books that were published this year, so many well written and beautifully produced titles.!

“It is slightly dispiriting that publishers appear still to be in thrall to such trends as clean eating, but completely thrilling that they are willing to back those who want to write learnedly and inspiringly about, say, the food of Georgia or Palestine, about the culture of rice in Japan, about the grave threat sugar presents to our health. Thanks to this, judging was a pleasure.”!

Shortlisted Food Books 2017!

Gather Cook Feast (Jessica Seaton and Anna Colqhoun); Lisboeta (Nuno Mendes); The Case Against Sugar (Gary Taubes); The Meaning of Rice (Michael Booth); The Palestinian Table (Reem Kassis); The Sportsman (Stephen Harris)!

Shortlisted Drink Books 2017!

Bursting Bubbles (Robert Walters); By the Smoke and the Smell (Thad Vogler); Champagne (Peter Liem); Miracle Brew (Pete Brown); The Way of Whisky (Dave Broom); The Wine Dine Dictionary (Victoria Moore)!

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André An drré Simon Simon Fo Food od & Drink Drink Book B ok Awards Bo Awards s hortl t ist re vealed! shortlist revealed Published P ublished D December ecember 14, 2017 by N Natasha a ha O atas Onwuemezi nwuemezi!

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A ra range nge of o fo food od and d drink rink books books from from p publishers ublishers iincluding ncluding B Bloomsbury, loomsbury, Ph Phaidon aidon and Quiller Qu iller Pu Publishing ublishing h have ave be been en shortlisted shortlisted for for th the e An André dré Simon Simon Food Food & D Drink rink Bo Book ok Awards.

A ward ds.!

According to the According the panel panel of ju judges, dges, th the e sshortlist hortlist showcases showcases th the e be best st of co contemporary ntempora r ry food fo od and drink drink writing writing and was was selected selected from from more more than than 150 submissions. submissions. The The panel p nel pa was wa s gu guided ide ed by this this ye year’s ar’s ind independent ependent assessors, assessors, journalist journalist Rachel Rachel Cooke Cooke and wine wine expert e xpert fo forr "The "The Wine Show", Show", Joe Joe Fattorini.

Fattorini.!

Shortlisted for Shortlisted for th the e fo food od a award ward are are e Lisboeta Lisboeta by internationally internationally renowned renowned ch chef ef Nuno Nuno Mendes Me ndes ((Bloomsbury); Bloomsbury); The C Case ase e Ag Against ainst Su Sugar gar by best-selling best-selling au author thor G Gary ary Ta Taubes ubes (Portobello) (P ortobello) and The Me Meaning aning of R Rice ice (J (Jonathan onathan Cape), Cape), an "often "o often h hilarious, ilarious, yet yet deeply de eply re researched" searched" book book w where here fo ffood od and travel travel writer writer Michael Michael Booth Booth and his family fam mily embark e mbark on n a jjourney ourney th the e le length ngth of o Jap Japan an to e explore xplore itits s fo food ood cu culture. lture.!

Also shortlisted Also shorttlisted are are The Pa Palestinian lesttinian Table by Reem Reem Kassis Kassis (P (Phaidon) haidon) which which unveils unve v il s more m ore th than an 100 recipes recipes and provides provides a "rare "rare insight" insight" into into the the heart heart of th the e Pa Palestinian lestinian family fam ily ki kitchen; tch c en; Gather Cook F Feast east s by Jessica Jessica Seaton Seaton and an nd Anna Anna Colqhoun Colqhoun (Fig (Fig Tree) Tree) which w hich ce celebrates lebrates the the connection connection between between th the e fo food od that that we w ea eatt and th the e llandscapes andscapes that th at p produce roduce itit.. The Sp Sportsman, orttsman, th tthe e de debut but food food book book by se self-taught lf-taught ch chef ef Stephen Stephen Harris H arris (Phaidon), (Phaidon), has also also made made the the cut. cut.!

Cooke sa Cooke said id she she was was "amazed "amazed by the the sheer sheer quantity quantity of ve very ery go good od fo food od b books ooks th that at were w ere published published this this yyear, ear, so many man ny we wellll w written ritten and be beautifully autifully p produced roduced tititles". tles". Sh S She e added: ad ded: "I "Itt is slightly slightly dispiriting dispiriting that that publishers publishers ap appear pear still still to be in thrall thrall to such such trends trends as clean clean eating, e ting, but ea but completely completely thrilling thrilling that that th they ey are are willing willing to back back those those who who want w nt wa to write write learnedly learnedly and inspiringly inspiringly about, about, say, say, the the food food of Georgia Georgia or Pa Palestine, lestine, ab about bout the th e culture culture e of ri rice ce in Japan, Japan, ab about out th the eg grave rave tthreat hreat su sugar gar p presents resents to ou ourr he health. alth.

Thanks T hanks to o this, this, judging judging was was a pleasure." pleasure."!

Two ch Two champagne-themed ampagne-themed b books ooks a are re up p fo forr th the ed drink rink a award, ward, iincluding ncluding Bu Bursting rstting Bubbles Bu bbles by b Robert Robert Walters Walters (Q (Quiller), uiller), which which provides provides an alternative alternative history history of champagne ch ampagne and its its greatest greatest growers, growers, and Champagne Champagne by b Peter Peter Liem Liem (Mitchell (Mitchell

Beazley) which features an extensive list of growers and vintners from the French region, based on six years of on-the-ground research, both in contention.!

Also up for the drink award are Pete Brown, for Miracle Brew, an exploration of beer; Thad Vogler, for By The Smoke and The Smell (Ten Speed Press), in which the author celebrates small-scale distilleries and explains where the spirits come from, who makes them and at what cost; and Victoria Moore’s Wine Dine Dictionary (Granta), a handbook designed to help pick the perfect bottle of wine for dinner.!

Dave Broom rounds out the shortlist with his book The Way of Whisky (Mitchell Beazley) which tells the story of some of Japan's best whiskies.!

Fattorini said that the shortlisted books reflect the "eclectic, cosmopolitan way people drink today" with explorations of wine, beer, whiskies, cocktails and Champagne.

"The quality of the writing was so high that many of these books won’t just appeal to drinks fans; they will captivate anyone who wants a fascinating read", he said. "The best books told intensely personal stories that brought together a deep knowledge of the drinks with the emotions of the author and the people they meet."!

For the winner of each category there will be an award of £2,000. In addition, there will be an award of £1,500 in honour of John Avery and the Special Commendation Award of £1,500.!

The winners will be announced at a ceremony at the Goring Hotel in London on Monday 12th February.!

•

Andre Simon

•

Rachel Cooke

•

Joe Fattorin

•

André Simon Food & Drink Book Award

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29th of December 2017

Author Michael Booth on places to eat in Hokkaido, Japan Famous for its landscape and skiing, the island is also home to staggeringly good seafood Michael Booth DECEMBER 29, 2017

Japan’s northernmost island of Hokkaido is a landscape of volcanoes, rolling farmland, wild coast and some of the best skiing in the world. Once you’ve visited it, you never quite get it out of your mind, not least because of the staggeringly good seafood.

Hakodate, one of Hokkaido’s main cities, is famous for its squid. This is often served still wriggling in touristy harbourfront restaurants, but I gorge on local sea urchin at Uni Murakami, the restaurant of a famous wholesaler. You can also find a branch in the island’s capital, Sapporo.

I have a « Japanese only » rule when it comes to eating in Japan, but while researching my book I made an exception for Michel Bras’ modern haute cuisine restaurant atop the Windsor Hotel in Toya, right on the rim of a spectacular caldera.

Donburi is a bowl of rice with toppings. The best I have ever had was made by chef Wada-san at Shunsai Nagomi, a short walk from Toya Station. It is piled ridiculously high with super-fresh scallops, salmon roe, crab and uni.

In Sapporo, tourism has rather spoiled Nijo fish market, but somehow the famous Ramen Alley in the Susukino district is still worth a visit - the local butter-corn miso ramen is a must.

Hokkaido is synonymous with skiing. The gorgeous Vale Hotel at Niseko is right on the slopes, with mesmeric views of the conical Mount Yotei. It’s a rich agricultural area too, so there are loads of organic farm shops and restaurants, which means that, for this non-skier, it’s just as good in the summer.

29th of December 2017

My greatest meal on Hokkaido was a lunch of fresh cooked crab in a seafood shack on the seafront in the remote town of Rausu, on the Shiretoko Peninsula.

We went there to track bears, which was massively thrilling. I’m M afraid you'll have to track this place for yourself as I have no address. Just head south on the coast road, and the restaurant is on your left about a mile or so out of Rausu. It’s worth it.

Michael Booth is a journalist and author of ‘The Meaning of Rice: And Other Tales from the Belly of Japan’, which has been nominated for the André Simon Award, and is published by Jonathan Cape.

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Book Review: The Way Of Whisky By Dave Broom – Photography

By Kohei Take January 31, 2018 Diverse JapanLeave a commentGo to comments

‘Renowned whisky expert Dave Broom has been visiting Japan’s distilleries for the past 17 years and is recognised as a leading commentator on this fascinating whisky style… …Dave investigates what makes Japanese whisky Japanese, the secret of ‘Whisky-do’.’ (Octopus)

The first impression on seeing this book, even without opening it, was expensive coffee table book. At a glance it is beautifully put together with stunning photography by Kohei Take. Thankfully, on reading the Introduction it becomes obvious it’s so much more than that. It’s the Introduction that nails the aim of the book and it’s surprisingly close to a Buddhist concept, that of seeing the universe in a sheet of paper (what the Buddhist monk Thich Nhat Hanh calls ‘Clouds in Each Paper’) except in this case it’s applied to Japanese whisky. It’s in this typically Japanese approach, highlighted by Glaswegian whisky expert Broom’s analysis, that there is so much more involved than just the brewing process; an in depth philosophical approach and practical application and attention to detail involving traditional Japanese crafts and concepts in a way that is perhaps lacking in whisky production elsewhere.

Dave Broom, © Octopus Books

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The book is broken down into nine chapters looking in depth at various distilleries around Japan interspersed with sections examining various key Japanese crafts, concepts and people associated with the whisky industry in Japan that link into the overall production processes involved, some of which Broom touches on very briefly in the Introduction.

Japanese whiskies on sale in Soho, London

Between each of the nine distillery focused sections are brief travelogues covering the authorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s journeys between distilleries written in refreshingly diary like prose which paints delightful pictures of a journey that most of us will never make. That being said this book takes the reader on a vicarious journey into the world of Japanese whisky distilleries emphasising the importance of the various elements involved in the making of Japanese whisky; blends, grains, malts, yeasts, aging, casks and so on. As such itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a

good mix of whisky facts and whisky ‘chat’ which for anyone not familiar with the insider intricacies of the world of Japanese whisky helps to engage and keep the attention of the reader who may not be a whisky aficionado, let alone a Japanese whisky aficionado. As Broom puts it succinctly it’s a mixture of the technical and philosophical.

Photos © Kohei Take

The distillery focused sections go into the development of the distillery itself and their whiskies, each of which is investigated with patently obvious enthusiasm. The mouthwateringly prosaic descriptions of the various flavours of the whiskies are further embellished by tasting notes sections at the end of each distillery chapter, all of which helps to draw the reader further and further into the world of Japanese whisky. If not a whisky aficionado before reading this book the reader will most likely be afterwards and like a good whisky further readings over time will help the reader develop and mature their interest and knowledge of this fascinating subject.

The book reiterates and emphasises that whisky, like almost all of what were originally foreign imports, when taken in by the Japanese has been retuned, redeveloped and enhanced in such a way that it has been made an entirely Japanese product.

Photo Š Kohei Takei

Delving into the world of Japanese whisky is not for the faint hearted though and admittedly, since the appearance of Japanese whisky on the world market in 2002, it has developed into a high end product with a certain cachet, and this now comes with associated premium costs which take many Japanese whiskies out of the reach of most peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pockets. After reading Broomâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s book it is easier to understand why.

Broom’s book was shortlisted under the Drink Books category for the 2017 prestigious annual André Simon Food & Drink Book Awards which showcases the best of contemporary food and drink writing and was selected from more than 150 submissions.

It is a classy book on what has often been perceived as a niche product debunking some of the myths that non-Japanese may have about Japanese whisky – thoroughly recommended for both aficionados and non-aficionados alike!

Notes: ABOUT THE AUTHOR ‘Award-winning author and whisky expert Dave Broom has been writing about whisky for 25 years as a journalist and author. He has written eight books, two of which (Drink! and Rum) won the Glenfiddich Award for Drinks Book of the Year. He has also won the Glenfiddich Award for Drinks Writer of the Year twice and recently won the extremely prestigious IWSC Communicator of the Year Award. In 2015 Tales of the Cocktail presented Dave with the Best Cocktail & Spirits Award, soon to be followed by the Golden Spirit Award in 2016.

Over his two decades in the field, Dave has built up a considerable international following with regular training/educational visits to France, Holland, Germany, the USA and Japan. His remit has covered consumer features as well as business reports. He is also actively involved in whisky education, acting as a consultant to major distillers on tasting techniques as well as teaching professionals and the public.’ https://www.octopusbooks.co.uk/books/detail.page?isbn=9781784723958 ABOUT THE PHOTOGRAPHER ‘Kohei Take is a Tokyo-based photographer, specialising in travel, portraits and fashion. His work has appeared in many adverts and in magazines.’ https://www.takeph.com/

André Simon FOOD & DRINK BOOK awards ‘Founded in 1978, the André Simon Food & Drink Book Awards are the only awards in the UK to exclusively recognise the achievements of food and drink writers and are the longest continuous running awards of their kind. The first two awards were given to Elizabeth David and Rosemary Hume for their outstanding contribution in the fields of food and cooking. Other winners include Michel Roux, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, Nigel Slater and Rick Stein.’

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I went to one of my least favourite places, the Barbican, to the London flat of Jessica Seaton, co-founder of Toast and now cookbook author. Her book Gather, Cook, Feast is shortlisted for this year's Andre Simon food and drink book awards.)

I was surprised that Jessica lived in the Barbican, a brutalist concrete jungle built in the 1970s. Her flat is all subdued muddy jewel painted walls and vintage 70s furniture. Her kitchen is the original stainless steel, almost submarine futuristic style of the original building, one of the few left.)

After talking, I got to see it through her eyes and started to appreciate the craftsmanship that went into this modernist tangle of concrete in the centre of London.)

Jessica also spends time in rustic Wales where she and her husband Jamie moved after university to set up one of the UK's most successful mail order fashion and lifestyle brands. I do love a Toast catalogue, all muted shades and skinny girls wearing large sloppy jumpers. ) The homeware features gorgeous chalky plates, hand-thrown pottery, mango wood chopping boards, linen napkins. The clothes are of very good quality: retro naval style jackets, double cotton pyjamas, durable striped T-shirts. Jamie does the design and Jessica oversees the photography shoots.) !

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Gather, Cook, Feast!

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You must be very pleased with the book) I am yes. It's been an amazing journey. It's opened up so many more wonderful things. I feel very grateful.! ) The book has very intriguing recipes. I see you worked with Anna Colquhoun, she's very talented. I imagine she was a good person to work with.)

My agent knew I'd need somebody to tag team with. We cook in a similar way. I couldn't have done it on my own, the year that I did most of the work for the book was also the biggest busiest year for Toast.! ) Why was that?)

We moved the business to London although we've still got an office in Swansea. We were just busy doing a deep dive. I chose the worst year to do it. It took four years altogether to do it.! ) I imagine this is 30 years worth of cooking.)

Certainly some things I've been cooking for a long time.! ) Have you always cooked from a young age?)

Yes, I think I was 4 the first year I cooked. My mum bought me a toy cooker for

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Saturday, 10 February 2018

Andre Simon shortlist: Conversation with Victoria Moore

I drove to Victoria Moore's upstairs flat in Fulham, part of a Victorian era building, which has a beautiful pale oak herringbone parquet floor.

She'd just put her daughter Francesca, 18 months, to bed. Every so

often throughout our conversation, I'd hear a few noises from the baby monitor.

Victoria immediately opened a bottle of British fizz, Wiston Estate, to go with a home-baked plate of cheese gougères. I wasn't expecting it, but she set about cooking dinner, pasta with tomato sauce. Pale and slim with shoulder length dark hair, she talks quickly, precisely, articulately; ideas opening up mid-sentence.

Are you a wine expert? Have you a Masters of Wine qualification?

No. It's very difficult and expensive. I don't want to be trained in the same way as everyone else. I slightly rebel against the way they want you to write their tasting notes. Everyone always assumes you want to do Masters of Wine, but there's all sorts of stuff I am interested in knowing. I enrolled on a masters course in psychology for three years instead. My thirst for learning more came out in that way.

There's far more money in booze than in food it seems.

There's a lot of money in spirits, not so much in wine. Producers are smaller; it's all hand-made.

Spirit companies have a product they can make more of. People go on about beer but you can expand your brewery in five seconds. Look how quickly Brewdog grew. A winery could never grow that fast. They have one harvest a year; they can't harvest them until they are 3 years old. Wines don't produce really good grapes until they are in their teens, twenties, thirties. For instance, this is a 2010 wine we are drinking.

Eight years old. How much does a bottle of this cost?

About ÂŁ40.

That's not bad.

Champagne's gone more expensive now. This is a proper product.

Is this how Champagne used to be in France?

I don't think anybody knows the answer to that question. You can't replicate it.

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Andre Simon Awards shortlist: interview with Thad Vogler

I interviewed Thad Vogler, author of By the Smoke and the Smell, over Skype while he was sat in a car outside one of his bars in San Francisco. It was early in the morning his time, and tea time in the UK. I could see that over there it was sunny, there were blue skies visible from his car window. This week in London, the temperature has hovered around 0ยบC.

Thad is an imposing presence, this was most detectable in his voice; he has a radio voice, a deep and rumbling baritone.

How do you feel about being nominated?

I was unbelievably excited.

Is this your first book? It's really well written.You are obviously a natural writer.

Thank you. I was amazed what a collaborative process the book was.

I've heard that, but editors make all the difference.

What struck me is it very much is a memoir. It's quite emotional and very frank.

I hope so. I guess. When I was approached to write the book, I thought there is an abundance of the standard bar books with a collection of recipes and the ethos of the bar person and there are enough of those.

The woman who became my agent, proposed something more along the lines of a memoir. That sounded like fun to write.

In the whisky chapters, you talk about very personal subjects, your relationship with your stepfather. It's very touching. And also you talk about trying to have children.

How did that work out in the end?

Still at it. We haven't had the desired result yet, It's been a surreal experience, It's a very modern experience. We are right in the middle of IVF as we speak, this week. It's an interesting time.

My sister had it. It's hardcore. It's difficult.

It's hard for the women. So much pressure and expectation. I'm just amazed at how comfortable people are asking 'Why don't you have children? When are you having children?' Maybe that's more of an American thing. It seems like a lot of pressure on women.

It's physically hard on women.

Definitely. All on the woman.

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Tuesday, 13 February 2018

Andre Simon Awards: conversation with Michael Booth, author of The Meaning of Rice

I spoke to Michael Booth, author of The Meaning of Rice, over Skype.

He lives in Copenhagen with his Danish wife and two boys. The book was shortlisted in the food section of the Andre Simon book awards.

I've been enjoying your book. It's very interesting. I've always wanted to go to Japan and I've never been, although I've been all over the world. But everytime I want to go, something happens like I have a baby or something.

I started to think today - going to Japan is a bit like meeting David Bowie. I would never have wanted to meet David Bowie, in case I was disappointed. And maybe Japan is like that for me. So perhaps I'm actually avoiding it.

I know what you mean. The only thing you don't have to impress Japan. That's the thing with meeting David Bowie you would feel like you wanted him to become your best friend and you had to do something original that he'd never heard of before.

I would feel that about Japan as well. I would want Japan to become my best friend and that I would have some special connection to Japan. But you've done it.

I agree there is a danger of it being overhyped and it can't possibly live up to the expectations. But it does really. I've been there maybe 25 times, and I still get excited at the prospect of it. I'm going in a couple of weeks time and even though I go two or three times a year, but I still get giddy and silly about it.

I'm not reading it consecutively but you can dip in and out of the chapters. Each chapter is quite self-contained and about a different food and drink.

You don't need to read it as one narrative at all.

It's like a collection of short food stories. Was this all from one trip or several?

It was three trips with my family. Some of it was from previous trips, over the last five years.

It must have taken at least a year to do this.

The journey through Japan was done in at least 3 different legs.

I've read the purple potato, rice, yuzu and whisky chapters so far. I'm obsessed with yuzu. My first cookbook came out in 2011 with a yuzu recipe, and nobody had ever heard of it.

You literally couldn't get it anywhere. I think it's important to include new ingredients in cookbooks, then supermarkets are more likely to stock them.

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Post Awards Section

The winning books at André Simon Food and Drink awards Ellie Douglas February 13, 2018 Drinks books did particularly well at the 2017 André Simon Food and Drink book awards, announced last night at the Goring hotel in London.

Peter Liem's Champagne book won the drinks award. Credit: Andre Simon awards

André Simon awards: Winning food and drink books from 2017

The ‘best drink book’ award winner was Peter Liem, for his book Champagne: The Essential Guide to Wines, Producers and Terroirs of The Iconic Region.

The judges praised it for being beautifully illustrated, and an authoritative account of a well-known, but often misunderstood, wine region and style.

‘This is a book that we’ll return to for many years,’ said wine expert Joe Fattorini, who led the judging for drinks books.

‘Not only as an authoritative catalogue or even a book that also explores perhaps the world’s most celebrated wine region, but as a book that asks questions about the nature of terroir and place.’

The prize for best food writing went to chef Stephen Harris, for his book The Sportsman, telling the story of his life and how he came to start the Michelin-starred Kent pub by the same name.

‘The kind of book you want to win a prize like this must capture a moment, say something about where we are, as well as being inspirational, well-written, useful and expert. The Sportsman does that,’ said food writer Rachel Cooke, who led judging for the food books at this year’s awards.

Drinks books dominated the other prizes on the evening.

The John Avery Award went to The Way of Whisky by Dave Broom, an in depth look at Japanese whisky and culture.

Victoria Moore’s The Wine Dine Dictionary was given the Special Commendation, helping readers either pick the wine to drink with what they are cooking, or what to cook for the wine they want to drink.

Other shortlisted drinks books were: Bursting Bubbles by Robert Walters, By The Smoke and The Smell by Thad Vogler and Miracle Brew by Pete Brown.

The André Simon Food and Drink book awards have been running since 1978, named after André Simon, the French-born, UKdwelling wine merchant and food and wine writer, who died in 1970.

See the 2016 André Simon winners here.

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Victoria Moore and The Wine Dine Dictionary V ictoria Mo ore a nd T he W ine D ine D ictionary

The prizes for the drinks books were not done however. The John Avery Award went to Dave Broom’s book The Way of Whisky on Japanese malts, which Fattorini said was “the most Japanese book I’ve ever read” and which absolutely, “captures the terroir of Japan,” with its evocative photographs of “the mist and the cold.”

Finally, this year’s special commendation went to Victoria Moore’s The Wine Dine Dictionary, which Fattorini said was one of those rare books that made the language of wine as interesting as wine itself and was the sort of book that kept moving you around until you were “miles away” from where you originally began – which in his case was wine and oysters to Zinfandel and pulled pork.

Speaking to the drinks business afterwards, Fattorini said the drinks category had marked itself out this year due to the higher than usual number of entries.

“We kept getting contenders,” he said, adding that, in the end, the “shortlist sort of wrote itself.”

Despite his high praise for the shortlisted works he also added that there were still a number of books that had been submitted which had contained errors or were very factual but not engaging enough.

He also added that in the current trend for cocktail books a little more writing and rather fewer pictures and “fireworks” wouldn’t go amiss, while those trying to emulate the beat/gonzo model of Jack Kerouac or Hunter S Thompson should probably aim for greater brevity or perhaps a different approach altogether.

Not only was it a style, “which drinks isn’t about,” but he also repeated the well-worn advice that if the first chapter of your book begins with someone waking up in a room they don’t remember entering, “stop writing”.

Meanwhile, in the food category, Rachel Cooke was likewise full of enthusiasm for the wide-ranging and eclectic shortlist, which she said showed that now was a “golden age of food writing.”

The winner of the Best Food Book was awarded to Stephan Harris’s, The Sportsman.

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Written by Jancis Robinson 13 Feb 2018

Drinks books triumph in André Simon Awards 2017

As we know from Tam's book reviews, last year saw a particularly rich crop of books about wine and other strong drinks. This was confirmed last night at the André Simon Food and Drink Book Awards 2017 at the Goring Hotel in London. Unusually, three of the four awards went to authors of books about drink and only one to a book about food.

This year's outside assessor of drinks books was Joe Fattorini, engaging host of The Wine Show, in which I make an appearance each Friday night on Channel 5 in the UK at the moment. He was presumably particularly persuasive when presenting his favourite drinks books to the trustees of the André Simon Memorial Fund David Gleave MW, Sarah-Jane Evans MW, Xanthe Clay and our restaurant correspondent Nick Lander.

The winner of the André Simon Drink Book of the Year was Peter Liem for his magisterial book about Champagne with its focus on terroir and magnificently presented maps.

But Victoria Moore's book on food and wine matching won this year's Special Commendation, and the annual John Avery Award went to Dave Broom for his unusual and very beautiful book on Japanese whisky. The Way of Whisky was published in the UK, like Peter Liem's book, by Octopus, whom I know well as parent company of Mitchell Beazley, publishers of The World Atlas of Wine.

Rachel Cooke of the Observer was this year's food books assessor and the André Simon Food Book of the Year 2017 was self-taught chef Stephen Harris's book about his exceptional restaurant The Sportsman at Seasalter. Even he has a strong wine connection, being closely involved with the wine bar and publication Noble Rot. The essays in Harris's book touch on the rich culinary history and landscape of his bit of North Kent, how he found The Sportsman, and his philosophy that intertwines punk music and food – including photos from his punk years.

In the picture are the four winners (left to right): Peter Liem, Stephen Harris, Victoria Moore and Dave Broom.

See this year's other shortlisted books – selected from a total of nearly 150 entries. For more details, see andresimon.co.uk.

André André é Si Simon mon A Award ward W Winners inners An nounced Announced

Drink D rink books books scoop scoop three three out out of of four four prestigious presti t gious prizes prizes at at the the André!Simon Awards!

Awards!

André!Simon U Sw i ne e x ert a xp nd cri tic, Pe ter L i em a nd se lf-taught ch ef, St ephen H arris, US wine expert and critic, Peter Liem and self-taught chef, Stephen Harris, w ere a mong tthe he w inners a he André André Simon Simon Food Food & Drink Drink Book Book Awards Awards were among winners att tthe 2017 Mo n d a y 1 2F ebruaryy a he G oriing H otel iin nL o n d o n. T he pre p sttigious !on Monday 2017!on 12 February att tthe Goring Hotel London.

The prestigious a wards sh owcase tthe he ve ry yb est s o ntemporary ffood ood a nd d rink w riting, a nd awards showcase very best off co contemporary and drink writing, and tthis his ye ar proved pro r ved n od ifferent. year no different.

Image shows Stephen Harris Stephen Harris’ book The Sportsman (Phaidon Press) scooped the 2017 prize for food writing. Stephen Harris had several lives before he decided to turn what was once called a “grotty rundown pub by the sea” in Kent into an internationally acclaimed Michelin-starred restaurant. The book shares extracts from Harris’ diary and personal ephemera – including photos from his punk years.

In the Drink category, wine expert and critic Peter Liem won the top award for his book Champagne: The Essential Guide to Wines, Producers and Terroirs of The Iconic Region (Mitchell Beazley). As well as being elegant and beautifully-illustrated, with a pull-out tray containing seven Louis Larmat vinicultural maps, the judges felt it was an authoritative account of one of the world’s most iconic but also misunderstood wines. Often obscured by a multibillion marketing industry, the French region actually counts hundreds of smaller producers and terroirs, which produce some of the best Champagne consumers are not aware of. Peter Liem’s book aims to tell their story.

Image shows Peter Liem The Way of Whisky (Mitchell Beazley) by Dave Broom was recognised with the John Avery Award for its in-depth research of Japanese whisky and culture. Beautifully produced, the book shares Dave Broom’s personal journey around Japan’s whisky distilleries. Interspersed with this are profiles of craftspeople, chefs, bartenders and others, as Broom investigates what makes Japanese whisky Japanese.

Meanwhile, British wine journalist Victoria Moore was recognised with a Special Commendation for her new book The Wine Dine Dictionary (Granta Books).! The judges praised Moore for her well-conceived and intuitive handbook, which helps readers pick the right bottle of wine based on the food they eat and for cooking the right food based on the wine they want to drink.

In an unusual year, three out of the four winning books were drink books. This year’s shortlisted authors – selected from nearly 150 entries – also included Bursting Bubbles by Robert Walters, By The Smoke and The Smell by Thad Vogler and Miracle Brew by Pete Brown, who was also shortlisted in the André Simon Awards 2016 for his book The Apple Orchard.

In the food category, the diverse publications range from Gather Cook Feast

by Toast co-founder Jessica Seaton and Anna Colquhoun to Gary Taubes’ The Case Against Sugar and The Meaning of Rice by Michael Booth.

Cuisines from all around the world were celebrated by Reem Kassis’ The Palestinian Table and Nino Mendes’ Lisboeta.

Winners in the food and drink categories are each awarded £2000; recipients of the John Avery Award and the Special Commendation receive £1500 each. This year Rachel Cooke assessed the food books and Joe Fattorini assessed the drink books. Books are judged on whether they are original, enjoyable, educational, and their production values. While the food and drink assessors guide the Trustees, the Trustees’ decision is final. The André Simon Food & Drink Book Award Trustees are Nicholas Lander (Chair), Sarah Jane Evans MW, David Gleave MW and Xanthe Clay.

LONDON-OLIOS André Simon Food & Drink Book Awards – The Winners

!

On Monday we attended the awards ceremony for the prestigious André Simon Food & Drink Book Awards at the beautiful Goring Hotel, just around the corner from Buckingham Palace, enjoying wonderful wine, delicious canapés and excellent company.

!

!

Extract from full article

Food for thought Published February 27, 2018 by Rachel Cooke

I’ve been involved with food writing, one way or another, for a long time; I was 25 when I began editing the Sunday Times food and drink pages, and that was more than two decades ago now. You might have imagined, then, that I would have been well prepared for the task of judging the André Simon Food & Drink Book Awards. In fact, I was naive. I simply had no idea just how many food books are published in Britain every single month. No fewer than 113 were entered for this year’s prize, and I have to admit that there was something mournful about this, as well as something wonderful: how on earth are all of these titles supposed to find a place in the world? Perhaps that’s half of the job of a prize like this, helping them to a spot on people’s shelves.!

We are, undeniably, in a golden age of writing about food, and that’s a fantastic, inspiriting thing, even if the gap between meals as they appear on the page in glossy hardbacks and meals as they are prepared and eaten in our homes is increasingly yawning. But before I get on to the joyful business of praise, it would be remiss of me not to say how disappointing I find it that so many publishers are continuing to collude with those who will insist on peddling damaging half-truths in the matter of such things as gluten, lactose, and—dread words—coconut oil. I understand that publishing is a business like any other, but that doesn’t mean that it can’t be an ethical one.!

That said, we read some great books. Some were thoughtprovoking, some were useful; some made me feel nostalgic, some made me very hungry. A few even made me want to cook—and perhaps that’s the greatest test, at least for those books that

include recipes. Will they make it into the kitchen? Among those that have made into mine, but which didn’t sneak on to the shortlist are Claire Thomson’s The Art of the Larder, a really helpful book when it comes to using up stu" that might be hanging around in your cupboards; and John Whaite’s Comfort, a warm blanket of a cookbook. Some of the titles we received seemed to me, sometimes, to be a little on the earnest side. But Whaite’s isn’t one of these. All you children of the late Seventies and early Eighties need to know that he has a recipe for chicken curry crispy pancakes - yes, a version of the ones by Findus that I, for one, used to love as a child.!

The six books on our list covered many di"erent areas, in a variety of ways. The Meaning of Rice, and other Tales from the Belly of Japan by Michael Booth is an energetic, witty travelogue that I enjoyed for its quirkiness and its lightly-worn learning. We live in an age of supermarket sushi, but this book is a million miles from that kind of mass-production. If you want to know more about the mysterious and increasingly ubiquitous yuzu, or about how soba noodles are made—answer: with quite astonishing precision—this is the book for you. For me, Booth is Bill Bryson wrapped in nori and, metaphorically at least, tottering around on a pair of wooden sandals.!

Reading The Palestinian Table by Reem Kassis was a Proustian experience for me. As a child I went to school in Arab Ja"a, and it was there that I had some of the most formative food experiences of my life. Kassis, who grew up in Jerusalem, took me right back to that time. This is home cooking, inspired by the women of her family (I recommend the recipe for tahini and molasses spread, which will enable you to put together the West Bank equivalent of a peanut butter and jelly sandwich). But it’s also about how food connects us to home, even when we are far away from it—and in that sense, it seems to be very much a book for the times.!

Lisboeta, Recipes from Portugal City of Light by Nuno Mendes is a gorgeously put together guide; turning its pages is the next best thing to being in Lisbon. I really like some of the recipes in it, so distinctive and so surprisingly achievable. Mendes’s potatoes with

caramelised onions and melting cheese represents nirvana for me; I could eat it every day for the rest of my life, and be entirely happy.!

The day that I received a phone call telling me that The Sportsman in Seasalter had a cancellation and that our names were next on the list still ranks as one of the happiest of my life, so perhaps I was predisposed to Stephen Harris’s book, The Sportsman. But as any of you who have been to his restaurant will know, he really can cook, and this book encapsulates all of his talent, his enthusiasm, his dedication, his interest in and passion for such things as provenance and terroir. I don’t know whether I will ever make meringue ice cream with sea buckthorn, sea water and seaweed powder - something tells me that I won’t—but philosophically I love the idea of it, and in any case, his red cabbage is eminently doable.!

Gather Cook Feast by Jessica Seaton and Anna Colquhoun is a miracle. In one way, it’s deeply, reassuringly old-fashioned, but it’s also incredibly modern, almost modish. Not only is this is how many of us want to eat now; it is how all of us may have to eat in the near future, when we will surely need to grow more of our own, to forage, to rediscover long obsolete wild foods. I absolutely adore it, and I expect to use it for the rest of my life.!

Finally, The Case Against Sugar by Gary Taubes: not an easy read, but certainly important one. Turning its pages, I was taken back to 1984, when E is for Additives came out, a book that had a huge e"ect on my parents’ attitudes to what we ate. For me, this book is the E is for Additives of this moment. Taubes is one of the most clear-headed, scholarly and brave writers on nutritional science that we have, and this book speaks firmly and furiously to the way that sugar, almost without our noticing, has become embedded in our lives, with the result that it is making many of us chronically ill.

This book is both revelatory and deeply chastening, and I salute Taubes for putting it all out there.!

Of course, there can only be one winner, and in the end, I chose The Sportsman by Stephen Harris. When you’re judging a prize, you look for a book that captures a moment. But you’re also looking to posterity; if you do your job, the title in question will be read and loved for decades to come. I believe that one day first editions of our winner will be as sought after as those of Elizabeth David. This is an inspiring book; it’s a very British book, in the best

sense; and it induces in me untrammelled greed and passionate devotion.!

Rachel Cooke is a writer for the Observer and the New Statesman.

Her book, Her Brilliant Career: Ten Extraordinary Women of the Fifties, is published by Virago.

Version:

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Source URL: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/luxury/drinking-and-dining/krug-clos-du-mesnil-champagne-peter-liem-guide-champagne/

Luxury What makes a remarkable champagne? Location, location, location

By Victoria Moore, Wine correspondent 23 Feb 2018 10:02:57

Salon and Krug Clos du Mesnil are two of the most famous champagnes in existence. Both have incredible complexity but they are also pristine in their focus as well as having a remarkable ability to age. How do they do it? Location, location, location.

Salon is made solely from grapes grown in the village of Mesnil-sur-Oger, which is sandwiched between the villages of Oger and Vertus on the Côtes des Blancs, to the south of the Marne river. Krug Clos du Mesnil comes from a single, walled 1.84ha vineyard within that same village.

Once you know this would you not immediately have itchy feet, if not to catch the next train to Epernay to taste other wines from Le Mesnil, but at least to look them out when you get the chance? This, indeed, was precisely how the American writer Peter Liem felt on tasting Salon for the first time. The experience propelled him to look closely not just at the wines and people of Champagne but more pertinently its contours and vineyards.

Of course in everywhere in the world in which wine is made, place, and all that comes with it such as soil, elevation, climate, aspect – terroir, in a word – is considered king. Until recently, champagne has been a little different – we’ve looked at champagne mainly through the prism of its brands, the champagne houses and other producers who make it.

Over the last two or three decades, the perspective has shifted. Champagne is now more appreciated as a wine, rather than only a celebratory bottle of bubbles. There has been an increase in single site (either vineyard or village) wines, like Salon (first made in 1905) and Krug Clos du Mesnil (1979).

Now, after spending 20 years travelling between New York and Epernay, Liem has written a contemporary guide that looks at Champagne from this viewpoint. He shares the cream of his knowledge in a very beautiful book, Champagne: The essential guide to the wines, producers and terroirs of this iconic region (Mitchell Beazley, £60). The book has just won the André Simon Award for Drinks Book of the Year and it’s a must-have for any serious champagne drinker.

You’d probably like to know what Liem has to say about Le Mesnil. He writes, “Marked by prominent acidity and even more piercing chalkiness, Salon is the archetype of Le Mesnil champagne, needing plenty of time to reveal its full complexity and depth. Compared with the wines of the northern Côtes des Blancs, it feels more naked in its minerality, more austere in its structure.”

He also describes other champagnes made exclusively from Le Mesnil grapes, in particular the Cuvée Speciale made by Pierre Péters from the vineyard of Les Chétillons.

In numbers | Champagne

Don’t tell me you’re not starting a mental list of wines you need to try. Except that if you own Liem’s book, there are too many of them. This is because the lucidity and perfectly-distilled precision of his insights sends you dancing around from one village to another, and from one producer to another. You sink into a page, and then flip through chasing another reference. And it’s not just the pages.

There are also maps – a whole little drawer of reproductions of the Louis Larmat vitivultural maps commissioned by the French government in the 1940s. Like I said, this award-winner is a book that champagne-heads need to own.

Champagne: The essential guide to the wines, producers and terroirs of this iconic region, £60, Octopus Books RELATED IMAGES

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ANDRÉ AN DRÉ SI SIMON MON AWARDS: AWARDS: C CHAMPAGNE HAMP PAGNE 22nd 2 2 nd F February, ebruary, 2 2018 018 b by yR Rupert upert Mi Millar llar

Peter L Peter Liem’s!Champagne iem’s!Champagne p g was was tthis his yyear’s ear’s d drinks rin nks b book oo k w winner inner a att tthe he André A ndré Simon Sim mon Awards.

Awards. Described Described a ass a a,, ““work work tthat hat w was as cclearly learly tthe h he rresult e su l t o off a llifetime’s iffetime’s k knowledge” nowledge” b byy jjudge ud g e J Joe oe F Fattorini, attorini, it w was as aalso ls o praised p raised ffor or it itss hig high hp production roduction vvalues alues a and nd ssuperb uperb m maps. aps.

Joe and Peter Liem Joe Fattorini Fattorini a nd Pe ter L ie m

On a w On warm arm m sp spring ring d day ay iin n tthe he ci city ty o off R Reims, eims, II’m ’m iin n tthe he sma smallll p private rivate ttasting asting ro om at at tthe he C hamp pagne h ouse eo o u is R oederer, a p lethora o lasse es room Champagne house off L Louis Roederer, plethora off g glasses a rrayed iin n ffront ront o n a llarge arg ge ro und ttable. able. II’m ’m h ere ttasting asting vins vin ns clairs, clairs r , still still arrayed off me o on round here wines ffrom rom tthe he mo st recent recent vi ntage, w ith tthe he h ouse e’s ch ef d e ca ve (o ead wines most vintage, with house’s chef de cave (orr h head winemaker), r Je an-Baptiste L éca c i ll o n . winemaker), Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon.

Vins clairs are fully fermented wines that have yet to be blended and bottled for the second fermentation, when Champagne gets its signature sparkle, and these will form the base for Roederer’s vintage Champagnes – in this case, from the 2014 harvest. I’ve been sampling vins clairs annually with Lécaillon for a decade, an exercise that has become one of my favourite events of the year.

At Roederer, tasting these base wines is particularly intriguing because virtually all of these wines come from individual parcels. At this stage, most Champagne houses blend together multiple vins clairs from a given village – a number of Pinot Noirs from Bouzy, for example, could be combined in the same tank, or many different Chardonnays from Avize. Roederer, however, fastidiously isolates individual vineyards within these villages in order to create a more complex and diverse array of wines.

“I have 410 different parcels and 450 different vessels in which to ferment them,” Lécaillon says. This creates a great deal of work in the cellar, as all these wines must be kept in separate tanks or vats until completion. Yet for Lécaillon, it’s vital that each of these parcels is allowed to express its own individual character.

It’s often assumed – and even stated in much of the writing about Champagne – that base wines are essentially neutral, light wines with low alcohol and little fruit flavour. Yet to say so undermines not only the wines themselves but also the way fruit grows in this colder, northern climate.

Here, grapes can readily obtain physiological ripeness while maintaining a low degree of potential alcohol. This means that the wines are anything but neutral.

Tasting through Roederer’s vins clairs shows that fine wine is, first and foremost, an expression of the place where it’s grown. In the village of Aÿ, for instance, with its south-facing slope and proximity to the Marne River, wines are ripe and succulent, yet distinctions are readily apparent between individual parcels. Among the 2014 wines on the table, a Pinot Noir from the vineyard of La Villers in Aÿ is elegant and subtly fragrant, marked by the finesse of chalky soils.

Another wine from the nearby Goutte d’Or – an even sunnier spot – is more voluptuous, with complexity and length on the palate. In contrast to Aÿ, the village of Verzenay, which is on the northern side of the Montagne de Reims, yields cooler-weather wines that are less opulent. A Pinot Noir we taste from the Verzenay vineyard of Les Pisse-Renards is lively and focused, thriving on vibrant tension. But from a vineyard just 1,500 feet (450 meters) away, a wine from Les Basses Coutures is broader and richer, an expression of the heavier clay soils found there.

Extract from full article

Stephen St ephen H Harris’ arris’ F Focaccia ocaccia

Stephen St ephe n H Harris arris sh shares ares h his is re recipe cipe ffor or su sumptuously mptuously ffresh resh ffocaccia ocacc cia “It may “It may seem seem strange strange that that w we e make m ke focaccia ma focaccia iin n a re restaurant estaurant tthat hat h highlights ighlights En glish ffood, ood, b ut tthis his b read iis so n tthe he me nu ffor or se ntimental re asons. Ju ust English but bread on menu sentimental reasons.

Just b efore o p e n i ng T he Sp ortsman I vi sited T he Wa a ln u t T ree re staurant iin nW ales. before opening The Sportsman visited The Walnut Tree restaurant Wales.

I was was iimpressed mpre essed b y ma ny tthings, hings, b ut tthe he b read b oard d kn kknocked ocke k d me o ut: iitt h as by many but bread board out: has a cheese cheese b read, b lack b read a nd tthis his ffocaccia.” ocaccia.” bread, black bread and Ma kes 1 loaf l oa f Makes

Ingredients!

•!20 g/ " oz fresh yeast •!700 g/1 lb 9 oz (5 # cups) bread flower •!20 g/" oz (1 tablespoon) sea salt •!15 g/# oz (1 tablespoon) caster (superfine) sugar •!olive oil •!1 red onion, thinly sliced •!2 stalks rosemary, picked into small sprigs Method 1 Crumble the fresh yeast into a bowl and pour over 500 ml/17 fl oz (generous 2 cups) warm water. Leave for 30 minutes to give the yeast time to activate.

2 Meanwhile, put the flour, salt and sugar into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a bread hook. If kneading by hand, combine in a large mixing bowl. With the mixer on a medium setting, add the year and water mixture to the dough and knead for around 5 minutes. The dough should be shiny and spring back when pressed with a finger; this means the glutens are in line. Leave the dough in the mixing bowl and allow to rise for an hour.

3 While the dough is rising, take a deep baking tin, around 30 x 24 cm/12 x 9 # inches and oil it very generously.

4 Knock the air out of the dough and turn out onto a floured work counter.

Knead the dough for around 5 minutes to get it back to the shiny stage.

5 Swirl the oil in the pan to make sure all the inside surfaces are well-oiled.

Put the dough into the pan and press into the sides and corners. Turn it over so that it is completely coated with oil. Spread the onion slices over the surface and tuck in the rosemary sprigs, distributing them evenly.

6 Leave for 2 hours, loosely covered with a tea towel, until the dough has risen almost to the top of the tin. Preheat the oven to 250C/500F. 7 Bake for about 45 minutes, or until the focaccia is golden brown. In the restaurant we turn it upside down in the pan and bake for another 10 minutes to ensure it is evenly browned all over, but this is cosmetic rather than essential.

8 Turn out the focaccia onto a wire rack and leave for at least an hour before slicing.

Recipe courtesy of Stephen Harris, extracted from The Sportsman.

PLUS: This book has been shortlisted in the food category for the AndrĂŠ Simon Food & Drink Book Awards 2017. Founded in 1978, the AndrĂŠ Simon Food & Drink Book Awards are the only awards in the UK to exclusively recognise the achievements of food and drink writers and are the longest continuous running awards of their kind. The first two awards were given to Elizabeth David and Rosemary Hume for their outstanding contribution in the fields of food and cooking. Other winners include Michel Roux, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, Nigel Slater and Rick Stein. Click here for more.

Nuno Me Nuno Mendes’ ndes’ O Octopus ctopus W With ith Sma Smashed shed Po tatoes, Olive Olive Oil Oil & Piso Piso o Potatoes,

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Perfectly crisp Perfectly crisp s octopus, octopus, ca caramelised ramelised a around round tthe he e edges, dges, iis su unbelievably nbelievably g good oo d – e especially sp pecially w hen se rved w ith ttwice-cooked wice-cooked p otatoes a nd tthe he d elicious Po rtuguese h erb-and-o oil when served with potatoes and delicious Portuguese herb-and-oil co ndiment"piso condiment"piso

“This dish “This dish iis s smo smothered thered iin n ffragrant ragra r nt g green reen e extra-virgin xtra-virg gi n o olive live o oil, il , h hence ence tthe he n ame: a"lagareiro"is a"lagareiro"is the the owner owner o no live o ress. T he sme minds me o name: off a an olive oilil p press.

The smellll re reminds off

summer days on the beaches outside Lisbon, when the scent of grilled octopus wafts alluringly through the air.

This varies from region to region, even person to person, and you can add any combination of herbs and citrus, even almonds and chilli, depending on what it’s to go with – let your imagination run wild. I like to make a double, triple or quadruple batch and store it in the fridge for a week. It works well as a marinade too.”

Serves 4–6 Ingredients For the octopus: •!1 octopus (about 600g), cleaned, with head, eyes and innards removed •!2 bay leaves •!1 white onion, quartered •!2 garlic cloves •!Sea salt flakes and ground white pepper For the"piso: •!A bunch of coriander, leaves and stalks finely chopped •!# garlic clove, finely crushed •!Finely grated zest of # lemon, plus freshly squeezed juice to taste (optional) •!3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling For the smashed potatoes: •!8–12 floury potatoes, such as Maris Piper or similar, skin on •!4 tablespoons olive oil •!2 bay leaves •!4 garlic cloves, smashed Method To cook the octopus: 1 Rinse the octopus under cold running water. Half-fill a large pan with water and add the bay leaf, onion and garlic and a generous pinch of salt and pepper. Bring to the boil, add the octopus and boil for 3 minutes.

2" Carefully remove the octopus and set it aside to rest for a few minutes.

Bring the same water to the boil again and repeat the process two more times. In this way you can control the cooking process and check how firm the octopus flesh is becoming.

3 At this point, the flesh should be tender with a little resistance when you insert a knife, and the skin will feel slightly gelatinous.

4 Turn the heat down to low. Simmer the octopus, covered, for 20 minutes.

Remove it from the pan and allow it to cool. If you have time, chill it overnight, which allows the flesh to become firmer. When the octopus has cooled, cut it into 3–4cm pieces.

To make the"peso: 1 Mix together the coriander, garlic and lemon zest with a generous pinch of salt and pepper until you have a paste. I like to make this in a pestle and mortar, but you can also chop everything very finely by hand.

2 By adding salt at this early stage, the flavour will be drawn out from the garlic. Stir in the olive oil. I like it sharp, and I add about 2 tablespoons lemon juice just before serving so it doesn’t discolour. "It will keep in the fridge for a few days with an extra glug of olive oil on top.

To make the smashed potatoes:!

1 Preheat the oven to 210°C/Fan 190°C/Gas 6#. Cook the potatoes in plenty of salted boiling water until just tender but not breaking up. Remove from the pan, drain well and leave until cool enough to handle. Murro means ‘punch’ in Portuguese, and we are now going to punch the potatoes. Smash each one gently with the palm of your hand.

2 Toss them in a bowl with the olive oil, bay leaves and garlic and season with salt and pepper. Put them in a large baking dish (big enough to hold the octopus too) and bake for 30 minutes, or until golden brown and crispy.

Drizzle the octopus with extra-virgin olive oil and put the pieces on top of the potatoes. Increase the oven temperature to 220°C/Fan 200°C/Gas 7 and cook for 10 minutes, or until the octopus has lovely crispy edges.

3 Drizzle with the piso, take it straight to the table and let your guests help themselves.

Extract taken from"Lisboeta: Recipes from Portugal’s City of Light"by Nuno Mendes (Bloomsbury, £26) is out now Photography © Andrew Montgomery

PLUS:" This book has been shortlisted in the food category for the" AndrĂŠ Simon Food & Drink Book Awards 2017.Founded in 1978, the AndrĂŠ Simon Food & Drink Book Awards are the only awards in the UK to exclusively recognise the achievements of food and drink writers and are the longest continuous running awards of their kind. The first two awards were given to Elizabeth David and Rosemary Hume for their outstanding contribution in the fields of food and cooking. Other winners include Michel Roux, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, Nigel Slater and Rick Stein. Click"here"for more

Interview with Dave Broom, Author of The Way of Whisky Glaswegian Dave Broom has been writing about spirits for 25 years, written a dozen books or so books, won numerous awards and is widely acknowledged to be a bit of an expert on all things alcohol.

Shortly after first discovering Japanese whisky in the late 90s whilst editing Whisky Magazine, Dave took a trip to the Yamazaki distillery in Japan and was (in his own words) 'hooked instantly'.

Fast forward to 2017 and Dave releases The Way of Whisky - A Journey Around Japanese Whisky, a book which captures his passion and respect for Japanese culture and offers readers a fascinating and personal exploration into Japanese whisky culture and the traditions and philosophies which surround it.

Stunning photography from Tokyo-based Kohei Take adds an extra dimension and their combined talents makes this book something a little bit special.

With a host of prestigious awards already under his belt (including several Glenfiddich awards) it comes as no surprise that Dave has received high praise for The Way of Whisky and bagged the André Simon Food and Drink Book Awards John Avery Award.

Without further ado, let's find out a bit more from Dave about his adventures into the world of Japanese whisky. Kanpai!

what first sparked your interest in spirits and can you give us an overview of your journey to becoming an expert?

I started my life in drink by working in a wine and spirits merchant, then ran a pub before becoming features editor on a drinks trade weekly. This was in the late 1980s when interest in spirits was beginning to rise thanks to the growth in single malt and the arrival of the new wave of cocktail bars. I had to learn about spirits in order to write educational as well as business features and was soon hooked.

When I went freelance after a brief spell working in Australian wineries I returned to the UK and began specialising in spirits.

I’d never describe myself as an expert. Every glass teaches you something new. You will never know everything. There’s a Japanese term shoshin which means ‘beginner’s mind’. It’s how I approach spirits.

you’ve written successful books about other spirits, when did you first become interested in japanese whisky?

I first tasted Japanese whisky when I began writing for Whisky Magazine in the late 1990s and was intrigued by its quality and different character. I visited Japan in 2000 and on that first day found myself at Yamazaki distillery. I was hooked instantly.

Extract from full article

WIN A COPY OF ANDRE SIMON AWARD WINNER THE SPORTSMAN COOK BOOK February 27, 2018 by Laura Scott 93 Comments

I am thrilled to announce I have a copy of The Sportsman cook book by Stephen Harris to give away. I have also been sent a copy of the superb book – winner of the Andre Simon Food and Drink award 2017 (best cookery book) – and I have just cooked my first recipe from it which I’m also sharing with you here.

Image courtesy of The Andre Simon Book Awards

To enter my giveaway for you chance to WIN a copy of this stunning cookery book scroll down to the bottom of this post.

The recipe I have chosen to recreate is “Duck with cherries”. I love the simplicity of the recipe titles in the book and this is one of those food pairings – like all of the others in the book – that work harmoniously together, created by someone with endless skill.

Here is a little background into how Stephen got started in the food business…

“Stephen Harris’ book The Sportsman (Phaidon Press) was awarded the 2017 prize for food writing. Stephen Harris had several lives before he decided to turn what was once called a “grotty rundown pub by the sea” in Kent into an internationally acclaimed Michelin-starred restaurant.

First a musician – he launched a punk band with his brother Christopher during his teen years – and then a history teacher and a financial advisor in the City of London, Harris’ engaging essays introduce the reader to the rich culinary history of the area; the Kentish landscape; how he found The Sportsman and his philosophy that intertwines punk music and food. The book shares extracts from Harris’ diary and personal ephemera including photos from his punk years” extract from The Andre Simon Book Awards.

The Sportsman by Stephen Harris is published by Phaidon Press RRP £29.95 Before showing you the recipe, I wanted to highlight an extract from the book that resonated with me. It’s something I completely relate to in terms of how I run my supper club and how I want it to evolve- indeed how it has evolved into what it has today. I think all that’s left for me to say is I see a journey to The Sportsman happening soon…

“The only way that people would venture out on a winter’s night was because the food was so good that they had to. The food must be that good. These people would then tell their friends about the amazing meal they had eaten, and word would spread from there. No advertising, no marketing but the purest form of growth – word of mouth”. Extract from The Sportsman by Stephen Harris published by Phaidon Press.

Recipe courtesy of The Sportsman cook book by Phaidon Press

Thanks to The Andre Simon book awards for providing me with the prize for this giveaway