The Ethical Rebel Issue 01

the ETHICAL REBEL

ETHICAL FASHION

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THE ETHICAL REBEL

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Ethical fashion featuring: Ally Bee Knitwear, Bibico, Bojest, brm, Celtic & Co., Fair-T, Nudie Jeans, RockulateR, SueMe

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CONTENTS 4 Fair-T

20 Fashion is the second largest industrial polluter on the planet

Working with the Fairtrade Foundation to help rewrite trading rules to ensure workers are not exploited

A quarter of the chemicals produced in the world are used in textiles

6 Nudie Jeans

Paying their share of living wages at their suppliers in India.

22 Fly By 24 Ally Bee Knitwear

8 Bibico

Sourced, spun and knitted in the UK

Working with women’s co-operatives tohat provide training, education, and work

26 brm

Training and employing people from the local ex-mining community

10 Choosing to eradicate slave labour from Fashion

28 Celtic & Co.

12 Letter to the High Street

30 SueMe

Employing skilled craftsmen in Cornwall to hand-make sheepskin footwear for over 25 years

Brands can make a fair living wage a reality

Asking that garment workers be treated faitrly

Nominated by Polartec for the 2016 Apex Awards.

Handmade in Britain from recycled fleece, tweed, British waxed cotton and the world’s first recycled zip.

14 Bath Runners 16 Bojest

32 Rebuilding a local Fashion Industry

No pesticides used and dyes have minimal impact on the environment

Wage slavery can only be eradicated by paying a fair price for our clothes

18 RockulateR

Makes all his garments himself and handprints his designs on salvaged fabrics

Credits: Image pages 16-17 reproduced with kind permission from Greenpeace www.greenpeace.org All other images: Paul Dockree 2

34 Walking Beside the

Seaside

Above: Model: Sean Gunn Beanie: Celtic & Co. Jumper: Nudie Jeans Waistcoat: RockulateR

“Fashion is supposed to be fun, but how can it be if other people have to suffer to make it?”

Anon

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Our Mission:

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o create a magazine full of inspirational brands who prove ethical fashion can be fun, gorgeous, lively, adventurous and exciting.

Select pioneering fashion

brands that demonstrate good stewardship of the world’s resources and look after their workforce by checking that garment workers at all levels of the supply chain receive a fair living wage.

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ake a few real-size models to the Cornish coast and give them free rein to style the clothes as they would wear them in their own lives. Add a few random props and play!

Above: Model: Stephen Harris Waistcoat: RockulateR Shirt: Nudie Jeans

On the Cover:

(left to right) Model: Sean Gunn Beanie and boots: Celtic & Co. Jumper: Nudie Jeans Waistcoat: RockulateR

Above: Models: Rob Pacy, Bugs Bunny & Sylvester Hoodie: RockulateR

Above: Model: Laura Fusher Silk top: brm Skirt: Bojest

Welcome!

This magazine is for those of you who want to know which brands to buy from because they care as much about people and the planet as they do about making amazing clothes.

We will bring you news on what is currently happening in the fashion industry, problems still needing to be tackled and the brands making positive steps in addressing them.

Because there are so many malpractices to be eradicated, this first issue only focuses on a few: wage slavery, pollution and the environment and the rebuilding of local fashion industries. In future issues we plan to unpick, among other things, the use of real-size models, design theft, how pricing wars undermine your pay and the economy and the psychology of advertising.

News about wage poverty, trafficking, pollution and other disturbing practices in the fashion industry has been gaining momentum and is finally reaching a tipping point where large numbers of people are refusing to buy clothes that are not ethically produced.

Unfortunately the fashion industry has allowed itself to become mired in so many damaging practices that it will take years, possibly decades, to sort itself out. But, there’s an increasing number of new and exciting brands basing their entire business model on ethical practices, joining the ranks of those who have pioneered ethical fashion for decades.

Model: Rob Pacy Hoodie: RockulateR Model: Louise Gunn Beanie: Ally Bee Silk top: brm Skirt: Bojest

Model: Laura Fusher Snood: Ally Bee Silk top: brm Skirt: Bojest Boots: Celtic & Co. 3

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FAIR-T Fair-T prints are inspired by extreme sports, travel and good music BUT, passionate about the conditions their clothes are made in.

Fair-T works with the Fair Wear Foundation (FWF), an independent, non-profit organisation that works with companies and factories to improve labour conditions for garment workers.

All Fair-T’s organic clothing, recycled clothing, Tencel and bamboo clothing are Fair Wear accredited.

“When you’re wearing a Fair-T product you will be making a difference to cotton farmers’ lives and the communities they live in.”

Available at: www.fair-t.com

Fair-T’s supply chain is transparent and certified by the Fairtrade Foundation as 100% ethical.

Fair-T is working with the Fairtrade Foundation to help rewrite trading rules in the fashion industry to ensure workers are not exploited by current trading systems and helps businesses form working relationships based on honesty and respect by guaranteeing: • Farmers get a fair and stable price for their products • Workers on cotton plantations can now defend their rights and join unions • No forced child labour • No dangerous chemicals used • Small scale farms gain stronger positions in world markets • Closer links between consumers and producers

Left: Model: Rob Pacy T-Shirt: Fair-T 5

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Nudie Nudie Jeans is a member of the Fair Wear Foundation, which works to secure living wages for garment workers, and their Fairtrade cotton is bought from Chetna Organic, which works with small and marginal farmers to improve their livelihood possibilities.

Nudie Jeans joined forces with a number of other brands to form the Chetna Coalition in 2015, which improves the organic cotton supply chain by planning their procurement for the following year. Their requirements are communicated to the farmers within Chetna Organic who are then able to plan their farming as they know they will have a market for the cotton they grow. At the same time the brands have an assured source of organic fabric when planning their products.

Above: Model: Stephen Harris Shirt: Nudie Jeans Waistcoat: RockulateR 6

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Jeans “At Nudie Jeans we want to be fully transparent, from cotton field to ready-made garment.

This means we have to know and trust all our suppliers. In 2015, we took our work further by visiting cotton fields, joining the Chetna Coalition and doing more to pay our own share of living wages at our suppliers in India.”

Joakim Levin (Co-founder)

It is a deeply rooted part of Nudie Jeans to encourage the care of things that actually get more beautiful as they age.

Nudie Jeans products are made from 100% organic cotton denim. They repair, resell and recycle old jeans.

Available at: www.nudiejeans.com

Right: Model: Cara-Joy Harris Jeans: Nudie Jeans Top: Celtic & Co. Hat: Model’s own 7

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Above: Model: Cara-Joy Harris Dress: Bibico

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Bibico Snow, Bibico’s founder, designed clothes for major High Street brands for over 10 years during which fashion got faster, clothes became cheaper, quality worse and no consideration was given to the people producing them. Disillusioned, Snow and her husband decided to create their own clothing company.

They committed to working with producers they knew well and that looked after the people who worked for them. Today bibico creates easy to wear, fuss free and well made clothing.

Bibico currently work with two women's cooperatives that are both fair trade certified by the WFTO. The cooperatives provide women with training, education and work, empowering them to move themselves and their children forward and out of the world of poverty.

“We wouldn’t work for a wage from which we could not afford life's basics, so we don’t expect the people making our clothes to do so.”

Available at: www.bibico.co.uk Above: Model: Louise Gunn Dress: Bibico

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Choosing to eradicate slave labour from Fashion

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Even the most ethical stores on the High Street are still only scoring 18/40 in the latest Tailored Wages Report. Garment workers are still forced to live in slums, unable to earn enough to support their families even on the +100 hours overtime generally required from them.

Why? Because their workers earn less than 25% of the wage needed to support a family’s basic needs. That means to obtain a fair living wage they need to negotiate a 400% wage increase.

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Brands can make a fair living wage a reality Can you imagime asking your boss to pay you 4 times the amount they pay you now? It would take a revolution to negotiate such a high increase, particularly in countries where strikes are met with police intimidation and brutality. Yet brands can make a fair living wage a reality by investing in the extra cost themselves.

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And in case you were wondering whether you could afford clothes made on a fair living wage, a 400% increase in a garment workers pay would mean that you and I would pay an extra 60p for an item currently priced at ÂŁ29.

That extra 60p would enable a family to have access to decent food, housing, sanitation, healthcare and education.

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We live in a time when we can all have a huge impact in eradicating slave labour and poverty, simply by our spending choices.

It’s Our Choice We do not have to buy into products that result in slave labour and poverty.

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Letter to the High Street Dear High Street, Before I buy any of your products, please tell me whether the garment worker who produced your clothes:

• is safe in their working environment • has freedom of movement • was recruited or transported with deception or force • is able to negotiate and discuss publicly their pay and working conditions without manipulation, harassment or threat • earns enough money in a 48 hour working week after tax to cover the basic essentials of food, clothing, a home, education, medical needs and a pension Many garment workers earn less than 25% of the wage needed to support a family’s basic needs even when working full time. To obtain a fair living wage they need to negotiate a 400% wage increase. Do you accept that attempts to negotiate such a high increase are likely to be rejected, particularly in countries where strikes are met with police intimidation and brutality?

If the current pay rate of your garment workers requires more than a 20% pay increase to achieve the minimum living wage, are your shareholders willing to invest in subsidising the difference, adopting a revised business strategy if necessary to top up garment worker wages and collaborating with other brands and suppliers to eradicate wage slavery?

Are you willing to make publicly available, and especially to those involved in making your clothes: 1. Your signature on the Bangladesh Fire and Safety Accord and a list of the health and safety measures invested in throughout your supply chain, including: • your head office • every shop floor • every factory floor 2. Reports that include the percentage of your supply chain traced to date, including cut-make-trim, spinning, weaving and dyeing and the harvesting of cotton 3. The names, addresses and contact details of supplier facilities, subcontracted suppliers and labour agents managing homeworking facilities

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4. For each region involved in your supply chain: • actual pay rate; • actual wage paid for a 48 hour working week; • the minimum living wage calculated by an independent assessor; • the additional cost per garment of subsidising the difference in pay between the actual pay rate and the minimum living wage rate; • percentage of employment contracts signed, explained and understood by workers and witnessed by someone unaffiliated with their employer; • content of each type of contract used to employ or sub-contract workers; • percentage of workers on each type of contract by supplier; • the rate at which piece-work is paid; • an independent audit of piece-work where the auditor undertakes the work required to ensure it yields a living wage within a maximum number of hours in a working week at the appropriate skill level; • reports on the piece-rate and the number of hours it takes on average to obtain a living wage; • the maximum number of hours in a working week, including required breaks and holidays; • the number of hours worked in a day, beyond which over-time is paid; • the rate of over-time pay; • Grievance and Dispute Resolution Procedures 5. A report from an impartial investigator, like the Fair Wear Foundation, on the impact your activities have on human rights throughout your supply chain and the real impact on workers before and after adverse impacts on human rights are responded to, using measurable indicators 6. Support for legislation that requires all brands and retailers with garment supply chains to be transparent and adopt ethical practices I very much look forward to your response All the very best Your favourite customer

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Bath R

Above: Model: Laura Fusher Silk Top and wool skirt: brm 14

Above: Model: Sean Gunn Jacket: Celtic & Co.

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Runners

Above: Model: Louise Gunn Jacket, silk top and trousers skirt: brm

Above: Model: Cara-Joy Harris Jacket and Boots: Celtic & Co. Jeans: Nudie Jeans 15

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Bojest Bojest textiles are printed on cotton fabrics certified as organic cotton by GOTS, who ensure that pesticides are not used in the production of raw cotton and that dyes used have a minimal environmental impact.

The fabrics are printed in the UK and Bojest’s suppliers work with producers to ensure that the producers are paid a fair price for the products to provide a good standard of living for the producer.

Right: Model: Louise Gunn Skirt: Bojest Silk top: brm Beanie: Ally Bee

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“Bojest is committed to do what it can to support ethical global movements that raise awareness and help create a more sustainable future.

Fashion Revolution is a worthy cause we can all support” Available at: www.bojest.com and ethical fashion stockists Left: Model: Sean Gunn Beanie: Ally Bee Jumper: Nudie Jeans Waistcoat: RockulateR Jeans: Oxfam Right: Model: Lauara Fusher Dress: Bojest Boots: Celtic & Co.

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RockulateR Abu Savage explores many different ink techniques and processes in his original print designs. Abu hand-prints his designs on salvaged fabrics from around the world, from which he then creates t-shirts and hoodies.

Every garment and accessory is beautifully hand-made and either a limited edition or a unique piece with artful embellishment.

Abu incorporates his prints and contrasting fabrics into his shirts and waistcoats, evoking an earthy African aesthetic.

Abu is inspired by colours in nature when thinking about textiles and overall look. “Wanting to create the feeling of movement in a stubble way, playing with positive and negative shapes.�

Available at: www.etsy.com/uk/ shop/RockulateR Above left: Model: Cara Harris Dress: Bibico

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Above Right: Model: Rob Pacy Hoodie: RockulateR Jeans: Oxfam

Right: Model: Rob Pacy Hoodie: RockulateR Shorts: Oxfam

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Fashion is the second largest industrial polluter on the planet

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So picture this: you’re orbiting the world in a satellite, gazing down at the earth with that huge telescope, and you really want to know what colour everyone’s going to be wearing this season.

So what do you do? Easy! Fix your sights on China, and look at what colour her rivers are, because she always wears them first. Her vital arteries streak across her landscape in glorious technicolour, like some druginfused vision. And as with any drug, this fashion addiction comes at a high price.

1 in 4 people do not have access to clean drinking water The fashion industry requires a high volume of water. According to WWF, one t-shirt needs 2,700 liters of water, the amount an average person consumes in a year (greenpeace, 2016). Combined with the pumping of dye wastes and chemicals into the rivers, the resulting water shortage in China and India is now critical, with 1 in 4 not having access to clean drinking water.

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Air pollution is also a problem. Considerable quantities of fuel are burnt in the creation of textiles, releasing CO2 into the atmosphere. Overall the apparel industry accounts for 10% of global carbon emissions.

Air pollution accounts for one million premature deaths every year Cheap synthetic fibers also produce gases such as Nitrous oxide (N2O), which are 300 times more harmful to the environment than CO2. In China alone air pollution results in a million premature deaths every year.

Microfibers shed by synthetic clothing during production form 85% of man-made material found along ocean shores. The size of bait, they are regularly swallowed by marine wildlife and pass up through the food chain to humans.

70 million barrels of oil go into making polyester fiber each year, making up approximately 150 billion garments that end up

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in landfill, where it takes over 200 years for the polyester to naturally decompose.

For those preferring natural products, more than 70 million trees are logged and turned into textile fabrics such as viscose and rayon every year. These fabrics cannot be composted at the end of their lives. “Natural fibers go through a lot of unnatural processes on their way to becoming clothing,” says Jason Kibbey, CEO of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition. “They’ve been bleached, dyed, printed on, scoured in chemical baths.”

A quarter of the chemicals produced in the world are used in textiles Textile bleaching and dyeing uses 1.7 million tonnes of chemicals, including PFCs that leave a permanent impact on the environment (Green Peace, 2016).

Many of these chemicals can be toxic.

When these clothes are no longer required, if they are burnt

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in incinerators the chemicals are released into the air. However, as more than 85% of all textiles end up in landfill, the greater risk is that the chemicals leach into the soil and groundwater. Textiles buried in landfill also release greenhouse gases, including methane, contributing to global warming.

Pesticides and insecticides linked to high incidences of cancer in cotton farmers Cotton is the world’s largest pesticide-consuming crop - 11% of all pesticides and 24% of insecticides globally (Forbes, 2015). These chemicals saturate the soil and seep into the water table, securing the textile industry’s position as the world’s second largest polluter of freshwater resources. The unusually high incidences of cancer in cotton-growing districts of the USA and south-western Punjab have also been linked to the use of pesticides.

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Fly

Model: Sean Gunn Jacket: Celtic & Co. Habit: Model’s Own

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Model: Rob Pacy Shirt: RockulateR Jeans: Oxfam

Model:Laura Fusher Dress: Bojest Boots: Celtic & Co.

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Model: Cara-Joy Harris Dress: Bibico

Model: Stephen Harris Shirt: Nudie Jeans Waistcoat: RockulateR

Model: Louise Gunn Dress: Bibico

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Ally Bee Knitwear

Above: Model: Cara-Joy Harris Jumper: Ally Bee Knitwear Jeans: Nudie Jeans

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Ally Bee Knitwear, founded by former lawyer, Alison Baker, is sourced, spun and knitted in Britain.

Small yarn batches from British herds of alpaca and British flocks of Bluefaced Leicester sheep in limited production runs means each Ally Bee piece is ‘one of few’.

The yarn is processed at a small mill in Dorset by spinner Phil Allen on machinery sourced – and salvaged – from long established mills from Bradford to Biella in Italy and recalibrated to treat the fine hairs of alpaca. The result is a luxury yarn, on a par with cashmere and Merino, incorporated into beautifully designed knitwear.

“In a time of faster and faster fashion, Ally Bee offers a slower take on style. Exclusivity trumps homogeneity. Quality wins over quantity.”

Available at: www.ally-bee.com

Above: Model: Laura Fusher Beret: Ally Bee Knitwear Knitted Dress: Celtic & Co.

Left: Model: Louise Gunn Beanie: Ally Bee Knitwear Silk top: brm 25

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brm brm believe 'ethical' should include ecological and enivronmental issues, animal welfare and cruelty free policies, fair trade/fair wage and low/zero carbon footprint.

All brm pieces are produced either in-studio at brm or at the Weave factory, based in Northumberland, which trains and employs people from the local ex-mining community. Everyone involved in production earns a fair wage. brm provides seasonless clothing and is 100% Carbon Neutral Certified by BLUEdot and part of our profits go towards BLUEdot schemes to offset carbon emissions calculated by BLUEdot.

“I’m always looking for a company’s ‘About’ or ‘Sustainability’ page on their website. If they’re not shouting about it, why not?”

Available at: www.brm-studio.co.uk

Left: Model:Louise Gunn Silk top: brm

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Above: Model: Laura Fusher Silk top: brm

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Above: Model: Louise Gunn Jacket and silk top: brm

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Celtic & Co. Celtic & Co. has been an eco-friendly company since it first began in 1990 and chooses suppliers based on their quality, use of natural materials and ethical sourcing and manufacture.

Almost all Celtic & Co. products are made in Great Britain to reduce the carbon footprint and to support local manufacturing industries. Sheepskin footwear is hand-made to last in their own, purpose built factory in Cornwall by a team of skilled craftspeople to ensure the highest quality standards.

The premium sheepskins are a by-product of the food industry that would otherwise go unused.

Celtic & Co. invests in quality products that will provide comfort and pleasure for years to come. “At Celtic & Co we are passionate about the ethical manufacture of our products, working with UK suppliers where possible to provide the highest quality in a sustainable and ethical way. We will continue to verify the sourcing of all our materials to ensure we continue to meet the ethical and sustainable standards we believe in.�

Available at: www.celticandco.com

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Above: Model: Cara-Joy Harris Jacket, Top and Boots: Celtic & Co. Jeans: Nudie Jeans

Right: Model: Stephen Harris Beanie and Jumper: Celtic & Co.

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SueMe

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SueMe’s organic, recycled sportswear is made with suppliers who share their ethics, principles and beliefs, support causes like Fair Wear, are certified under GOTS (Global Organic Trade Standard) and work with the Carbon Trust.

knowledge built into it. The jacket also features the world’s first recycled zip from YKK. It was nominated by Polartec for the 2016 Apex Awards which celebrate brands and designers that push the boundaries of style and innovation.

SueMe’s Echoic Jacket is handmade in Britain from water repellent Polartec classic 300 PCW (post consumer recycled waste) fleece. Blended with tweed adorning shoulder, yoke and side panels from a family who have passed down their tradition and knowledge over 5 generations. British waxed cotton on the underside of the sleeves adds durability to the elbows and underside of the lower part of the arm. The waxed cotton is made by The British Millerain co. and has a century of family

“We believe that we can make a difference for the better and that every little effort combined with everyone else’s little efforts will make a big difference.”

Available at: www.sueme.com Right: Model: Rob Pacy Jacket: SueMe Left: Laura Fusher and Louise Gunn try to keep up with Rob in their brm outfits.

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Model: Stephen Harris Shirt: Nudie Jeans Waistcoat: RockulateR

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Model: Louise Gunn Dress: Bibico

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Model:Laura Fusher Dress: Bojest

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Rebuilding a local fashion industry Most fashion companies rely on their suppliers to make their garments. Fibres and textiles tend to be sourced from other countries then processed and manufactured into garments in different companies scattered around the world.

Transport is required between each of these multiple stages - from seed depot to farmer, farmer to mill, then to processing plants, weavers, finishers, cutters then manufacturing - as well as to storage depots and the High Street, before finally arriving in your hands. Your garment could potentially travel around the world several times with each journey adding to the cost of your garment, both financially and environmentally, as trucks, trains and planes all produce high counts of CO2.

One solution is to develop local infrastructures that comprise of all stages of the supply chain.

Up until World War I the British cotton industry was not only 100% produced in Britain, it dominated the global textile market, with 7 out of 8 British workers producing cotton for export. When overseas garment workers began to be forced to work for a pittance, overseas cotton and clothing became cheaper, and the British apparel industry declined to

almost beyond recovery.

Because the UK minimum wage is closer to a fair living wage than that of our overseas competitors, British wages are inevitably higher. There have been instances of wage slavery in the UK, both for locals desperate for work and for people trafficked into the UK. Wage slavery and child labour both escalated during the refugee crisis throughout Europe and Eurasia.

Wage slavery can only be eradicated by paying a fair price for our clothes Demand for garments ‘Made in Britain’ is gaining momentum, with more consumers appreciating the value of British skills and heritage. They also understand that wage slavery can only be eradicated by paying a fair price for our clothes.

Business for UK factories is growing, but the artisans and garment workers currently employed by the UK garment industry are reaching retirement age and many of their skills are no longer taught in UK colleges. An investment into apprenticeships will be needed to attract younger workers to replace them.

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Walking Besid

Model: Rob Pacy Jumper: Nudie Jeans Jeans: Oxfam

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Model: Laura Fusher Cardigan, kilt and boots: Celtic & Co. Yellow silk top: brm

Model: Sean Gunn Jumper: Celtic & Co. Shorts: Oxfam

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de the Seaside

Model: Louise Gunn Knitted dress and Boots: Celtic & Co.

Model: Stephen Harris Scarf: Ally Bee Knitwear Jumper: Celtic & Co.

Model: Cara-Joy Harris Knitted dress and Boots: Celtic & Co. Jeans: Nudie Jeans 35

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F l o l l k a s ! s ’ t a h T @TheEthicalRebel @ethical_rebel @theethicalrebel 36

the ETHICAL REBEL 16 Andrew Place Truro Cornwall TR1 3HZ Email: ethicalrebel@outlook.com