Drinking AWisely & Well publication of It’s A Winederful Life FALL 2013: Inaugural issue
All About Bordeaux
INSIDE: On the Waterfront The Lighter Side of Bordeaux Following in their Footprints Sleeping Beauties Biodynamic Duo Rising from the Ashes When It Rains, He Pours
On the Waterfront
Pont de Pierre (Stone Bridge) by night 2
For a wine region, Bordeaux is all about water. First, the area is part of the larger Aquitaine region, which means “land of water” in its original Latin. Next, there’s the city itself, situated along the Garonne River as a hub of trade with its active port. Then, there’s the Médoc appellation, which sits on a peninsula and whose name comes from the Latin for “land between two waters.” Similarly, the Entre-Deux-Mers appellation is French for “between two seas.” More generally, the region’s position along the Atlantic Ocean accounts for its maritime climate. This is further emphasized by the existence of the Dordogne and Garonne Rivers, both of which flow into the Gironde Estuary and all of which significantly influence its viticulture. These rivers also play an important role in the region’s soil composition. Originating in the Pyrénées, the Garonne River carries gravels along its path, depositing them upon arrival on Bordeaux’s banks. Likewise, the Massif Central-based Dordogne River is responsible for bringing a different type of gravel to the area. These pebble-based soil types promote good drainage and also aid in ripening the grapes as the sun’s reflection off of these stones bounces onto the fruit. The two rivers also serve to bisect the region into its two distinct personalities – the Left Bank and Right Bank. The Left Bank is home to the (aforementioned) Médoc to the north and Graves (thanks to all that gravel) to the south. Generally, Left Bank reds feature a higher percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon, especially at the higher end of the market, since the area is slightly warmer due to its proximity to the Atlantic. On the Right Bank, Merlot, which thrives in the cooler climate and cooler soils (due to their larger clay content), usually takes center stage in appellations such as St.-Emilion and Pomerol, as well as the newer, joint appellation of Côtes de Bordeaux. Equally crucial to the region, especially in its role as a producer of worldrenowned sweet whites, is the spring-fed Ciron River, which has earned the title of coldest river in France since it is shaded for its entire length. Situated in the appellations of Sauternes and Barsac, the confluence of the Ciron’s cold water and the Garonne’s warm water, promotes the development of botrytis cinera, a fungus that ultimately creates unctuous dessert wines. But, lest you think that Bordeaux is exclusively about water, bear this in mind. On a recent visit to the region, a sign in the women’s restroom caught my eye. I expected it to be the usual “Employees must wash their hands before returning to work…” but written, of course, in French. Instead, the sign was touting the restaurant’s Thursday night promotion during which all wines are discounted to cellar price!
Drink Wisely & Well
The Lighter Side of Bordeaux As the summer of 2013 fades from view, you might be thinking about Summer 2014. Looking to rent a beach house for the season? The Hamptons? Nantucket? Been there, done that. What about Bordeaux? An hour south of Bordeaux, the Arcachon Basin awaits, with its calm waters, beautiful beaches and delicious shellfish. Basque architecture, requisite celebrities (such as Philippe Stark) and even local rosé wines make for the quintessential summer holiday. Known as the oyster capital of Europe, the Basin’s Cap Ferret Peninsula (not to be confused with Cap Ferrat in southeast France) consists primarily of government-owned land, with concessions for oyster farming allocated to approximately 350 farmers. Here, the Gulf Stream currents and shallow basin create warm waters that encourage the oysters to reproduce. During the summer months, the oysters are creamy due to the eggs being carried within. Once the oyster has given birth, they are less creamy and more briny in character and considered to be the best, hence the admonition to only eat oysters in months that end in “R.” However, with advances in electricity, refrigeration and spoilage prevention, when to eat oysters is now a personal preference.
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The area is close enough to Bordeaux to warrant a day trip inclusive of an oyster tasting and a boat or bike ride, but those looking to spend the night (or week) can stay in one of the local campgrounds or rent a house – options range from fishermen’s cabins to luxury villas. Of course, you’ll need something to wash down those oysters. Admittedly, 85% of Bordeaux production is red wine, but the remaining 15% is given over to dry, ageworthy whites, unctuous dessert wines, pale hued roses and deeply colored clairets, all of which provide immense palate pleasure, especially in the warmer months or with lighter fare. Whether dry or sweet, Bordeaux’s white wines are produced from Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and/or Muscadelle. Dry wines are generally led by the vibrant Sauvignon Blanc, with Semillon adding depth and weight to the wine. The best of these hail from PessacLeognan, are often fermented and/or aged in French oak barrels and can be bottle aged for many years. Those wines from the larger, Entre-Deux-Mers appellation offer good quality, ready-to-drink whites that usually are made in stainless steel or cement vats. Conversely, sweet whites rely heavily on the thin-skinned Semillon, which is more susceptible to botrytis cinera that attacks the grapes. But, thanks to the climatic interplay of the warm-watered Garonne River and the much colder Ciron River, the ugly-looking fungus is transformed from harmful to beneficial. As a result, it desiccates the grapes, thereby reducing the water content, concentrating the flavors and ultimately producing high quality dessert wines. Here, Sauvignon Blanc’s high acidity helps to balance the sweetness, while Muscadelle, if used, adds some floral notes. Produced from the same grapes as the red wines – Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc (and, to a lesser extent, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Carmenere) – Bordeaux’s roses are available in two different styles. The light-colored, light-bodied wines are more Provençal in style, the result of spending only a few hours in contact with the grape skins. Meanwhile, the deeper-toned, fullerbodied rose style is more similar to a light-bodied red and is referred to as Clairet, a new appropriation of the old British term for Bordeaux wines. Unfortunately, these latter wines, which are already limited in their production, are only infrequently exported as the Bordelais tend to keep them all to themselves. All the more reason to head to Bordeaux for the summer season. Drink Wisely & Well
From Barrel Maker to Bottler: Ch. Jean Faux For decades Pascal Collotte was on the outside looking in, selling Saury barrels to winemakers. But, as much as he wanted to be on the winemaking side of the industry, he wasn’t willing to settle and set impossible standards for himself and his future vineyard. Eventually, Pascal found the perfect property in Château Jean Faux. And, our visit to Château Jean-Faux was nothing short of perfect. Not only did the rain let up long enough for us to walk through the vineyards, but we were treated to a fabulous home-cooked lunch. While Pascal admits to being “…a big enemy of salad,” his wife, Chrystie, made us several salads to accompany our lunch, all of which were quite delicious. But, it was the local truffles dotting our omelettes and the grilled chicken, cooked over dried grapevines by our host that truly stole the show. The property totals 50 hectares, of which 12.5 hectares are planted to vines, with approximately 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. Although Pascal admits to being organic, he adds that he “is not biodynamic and not a fanatic,” rather using this viticultural practice as means to making great wine. In this vein, he hired famed consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt for his first (and subsequent) vintages and has replanted his vines at a density of 7,400 vines/ha (compared to the regional average of 3,000 vines/ha). Pascal notes that he runs the estate exactly like a Grand Cru property because, “I drink the wine.” Tasting through his wines at lunch, it is clear that his efforts and significant investments have paid off. But, we presume that he gets a discount when buying his barrels. Pascal Collotte
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Following in their Footprints: Ch. Piada
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s he watched planes fly overhead his family’s vineyards as a child, Frederic Lalande originally wanted to be a fighter pilot when he grew up. However, he wasn’t able to fully realize this childhood dream and instead gave up his pilot’s license for a career in the family business. As the third generation in his family to make wine (Chateau Piada was purchased by Frederic’s grandfather), the property’s moniker, derived from a local name given to the area – piedestes, meaning footprints –echoes this familial bond. Situated in the commune of Barsac, the property has the same terroir of neighboring Chateau Coutet, a classified growth. In fact, a large plot of Sauvignon Blanc previously belonging to Piada was sold to Chateau Coutet many years ago. Today, only one-half of a hectare of Sauvignon Blanc remains on the property, with the rest planted to Semillon. Committed to crafting the very best wine, Frederic limits production of Chateau Piada to those vintages when the fruit quality meets his exacting standards. As a result, he didn’t make any in 1992, 1993 or 1994. As a further extension of that commitment, numerous passes through the vineyard are Fréderic Lalande required to ensure that only perfectlyaffected botrytized grapes are selected and pressed immediately. The initial harvest usually starts in mid-September, with picking continued until late October, depending upon vintage conditions. In exceptionally warm years, harvest begins earlier. In addition to Chateau Piada, Frederic produces a second wine called Le Clos du Roy. The family also owns a nearby property, Le Havret du Piada, at which it grows grapes for a red Graves, dry white Graves and a sweet white Cerons. During our visit, it was interesting to compare and contrast the three dessert wines, ending on an especially sweet note with the Chateau Piada 2011. But, before we left the estate, Frederic’s father, Jean, arrived on his bike, looking quite spry and youthful. He attributed the secret to his good health to “biking and lots of Barsac.” Given the spring in Jean’s step, I’d be happy to follow in those footprints.
Jean Lalande Drink Wisely & Well
Sleeping Beauties: Ch. de la Dauphine and Ch. d’Agassign to swing the press from one vat to another. Even more Hans Christian Andersen in its appearance is Chateau d’Agassac, complete with moat. Set amidst a park setting, d’Agassac is located in the Haut-Medoc, only a short drive from the city of Bordeaux. Built for war, not wine, the castle dates to the 13th century, erected by the English to protect themselves, ironically, from the French. During the 18th century, vines were planted on the estate and Chateau d’Agassac became one of the first Cru Bourgeois properties. The property’s southerly location, joined with its philosophy to keep the fruit fresh, means that harvest here frequently begins earlier than at nearby chateaux. Wines are produced in a similar style to those of Chateau Margaux, with a philosophy adopted in 2003 that they only produce one Cru Bourgois wine, which represents 150,000 bottles of the total 250,000 annual production. This first wine is produced from the estate’s best terroir, made up of a blend of gravel (for fineness) and clay (which adds strength). The chateau’s second wine, La Cuvee Precision, is meant to be drunk in its youth, while a third wine, L'Agassant d'Agassac, is made up of 90% Merlot. This latter wine is produced with the new consumer in mind and described as “irreverent.” Regardless of their individual styles, the focus is always on freshness and balance.
Ch. d’Agassac According to Wikipedia, one of Bordeaux’s previous nicknames was ‘La Belle Endormie’ (Sleeping Beauty) due to the pollution that stained the walls in the old center. Thankfully, that blight on the city has been resolved, but the region’s proliferation of beautiful, limestone castles is proof enough to retain this title.
Visitors to Chateau d’Agassac can participate in a guided tour of the property followed by a themed tasting, hosted in what was formerly a pigeon coop. Looking up at the tall tower, one almost expects to see Rapunzel’s long hair spilling out of the top window.
Building on the fairytale theme, Chateau de la Dauphine takes its name from Princess Maria-Josepha of Saxony, the Dauphine of France, wife of Louis and mother of the last kings of France, who spent several days at the chateau soon after its construction. Built between 1744 and 1750 by JeanBaptiste de Richon, lawyer to the Paris parliament, the chateau is currently owned by Guillaume Halley, heir to Promodes group, which owns several supermarket chains including Carrefour. As one of the largest properties in the Libourne region, the Fronsac-based La Dauphine has 40 hectares primarily planted to Merlot, with the remaining 10% planted to Cabernet Franc, with organic certification expected in 2015. Inside the winery, concrete tanks are gravity fed using a lazy-susan de-
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Ch. de la Dauphine
Biodynamic Duo: Chx. d’Arcole and Le Puy
Véronique Barthe and Philippe Gardère
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wned by Veronique Barthe and Philippe Gardere, Chateau d’Arcole is only a few miles outside the village of St. Emilion. But, despite its proximity to town, it can be confusing to find, so Veronique greeted us a few blocks away to help guide our bus to the property. With her short hair and sporting tattered Converse sneakers, Veronique looks the part of a farmer and it is not surprising when she tells us the tiny estate (5.5 hectares) can boast of being the oldest organic vineyards in the region. However, in addition to the challenges involved with being organic in Bordeaux’s maritime climate (read mildews and other diseases), Veronique and Philippe also adhere to the principles of biodynamics on their estate. Given their dedication to organics and biodynamics, the two must work very hard to tend to their vines and wines, but explain that there are six days during the month when they are actually required to do nothing – during the full and new moon phases. As part of their biodynamic approach, pressing is carried out in horizontal, pneumatic presses and the use of pumps is eschewed. The tanks are deliberately small, with one tank assigned for each hectare of fruit. As a result of their efforts, Veronique believes that their wine can express the terroir more richly and suggests that they are simply doing what their ancestors did. Drink Wisely & Well
And, in fact, Veronique owes a lot to her ancestors. It was Veronqiue’s great grandfather who acquired the property back in the late 1700s. A soldier in Napolean’s Guard, Jean Barthe fought in the victorious battle of Pont d’Arcole and was rewarded by a few pieces of gold by Napolean himself. For her own part, Veronique has the distinction of being the first female winemaker in her family, but it is evident that she and Philippe are a united team. Also on the Right Bank, at 110 m above sea level, Chateau Le Puy stands at the second highest point of the Gironde Department of France. From this vantage point, the Demeter-certified, biodynamic estate overlooks the Dordogne Valley. Owned by the Amoreau family since 1610, it is presently run by Jean-Pierre and his son Pascal, representing the 15th generation of winemakers in the family. Here, horses are used in place of tractors while cows supply much-needed natural fertilizer. The 51 hectares, planted to Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenere, are surrounded by 900 meters of stones, establishing “good vibes” for the vineyards.
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In an unusual twist to winemaking, Jean-Pierre imported a pump-over process he first witnessed in use in Algeria back in the 1940s. Slats of wood are inserted into the fermenting must, which keeps the cap from rising, while the juice is naturally pushed upward and caught in a shallow pan above the vat. This juice then falls through an opening in the pan and back into the bottom of the vat. The Amoreau’s attributed this process with creating a more elegant and supple wine.
Pascal Amoreau Drink Wisely & Well
Rising from the Ashes: Fueled by their passion for wine, the Miecaze family left Paris, looking for a place with a good reputation. What they found was a 70 hectare property located within a forest with 6 hectares planted. Built around 1870, the chateau and chapel were in ruins until the medical equipment mogul and his family arrived to save the property in 2006. Mercifully, the vineyards were in much better shape, previously tended to by classified growth Domaine de Chevalier, enabling them to hit the ground running with their wine production. Their first vintage of Chateau Leognan was 2007, representing the first time that the centuries-old property had bottled a wine under its own label, further proof of the phoenix’ rebirth.
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howing off his newly restored chapel, Philippe Miecaze of Chateau Leognan proudly points out the patterned floor tiles, which depict a pair of phoenix birds drinking from a chalice and were the inspiration for his label design. His wife, Chantal, suggests that you can take the image literally in that drinking their wine will make you immortal. Philippe Miecaze and daughter Elise 12
Château Léognan & Château Biac
Across the river in Cadillac, the Asseily family has breathed new life back into Château Biac. Here, the living quarters were in excellent shape and in fact, the family had previously rented the house for the summer. They liked it so much that they decided to buy it, planning to establish a permanent home in the region and drink everyone else’s wine. But, as with the best laid plans, their decision to buy a house in the middle of a vineyard, which had produced wine for more than 300 years changed all that. Unfortunately, the property itself was in dire need of a facelift. Like anyone else looking to make a small fortune in wine, Tony and Yousma Asseily started with a large one. Mr. Asseily formerly had a joint venture with the German bank, Schroders, before being bought out in 2000, and daughter Yasmina was in finance herself before becoming a nutritional therapist. Consequently, the family understands the economics necessary to make the business profitable. Toward their goal of making high end, boutique wines, they commissioned an extensive soil analysis of the property, threatening to plant flowers in place of vines if the land hadn’t revealed its great potential to produce quality wine. Eventually, they planted new vineyards, built a modern winery and hired the right people. In the end, their heavy investment appears to be paying off as they’ve received favorable attention and good scores from the press. But, in spite of their insistence on making money, it is clear that the family truly loves the industry as Yasmina best summed it up: “I love the world of wine because people who love wine, also love food, and, by extension, love life.” Similarly, when asked if there was anything they would have done differently, the Miecazes only wished they had taken the leap sooner. Drink Wisely & Well
When It Rains, He Pours: Ch. Siaurac
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the saying goes, “When life gives you lemons, make lemonade.” Presumably, this is the philosophy of Paul Goldschmidt, proprietor of Les Vins Baronne Guichard. When he travelled from New York to Washington, D.C. to pour his wines at a retail tasting recently, Paul’s train was stalled indefinitely somewhere between here and there. Once he realized that there was no way he would make it to the event, he decided to share his wines with his fellow travelers, thus hosting an impromptu wine event on Amtrak. I first met Paul at a Bordeaux wine tasting in New York back in 2010, so I was delighted to discover that we would be visiting with him and wife, Aline, at their property, Chateau Siaurac, in Lalande de Pomerol. As Paul explained, the land itself is just across the road from the more prestigious Pomerol appellation, but when Aline’s great-grandfather, Joseph Brisson was mayor, he declined the opportunity to promote his property because he didn’t think it was fair to upgrade his land and not those of his constituents/neighbors. While Paul jokingly laments the loss in land value, calling it a “Poor Man’s Pomerol, he is actually thankful since it means that his family can afford to keep the property rather than being forced to sell to a large corporation to pay the huge property taxes.
Paul Goldschmidt 14
We arrived at the property on a cool and cloudy morning and quickly toured the vineyards with Paul, accompanied by his dog, Babouche. Paul was eager to show off Babouche’s skill in climbing a tree, but a few of us found the dog’s intense devouring of near-harvest-ready grapes to be even more entertaining. Once the external exploration was completed, we were given a brief introduction to the 400-year-old chateau that serves as the Goldschmidt’s home. In the hallway, Paul showed us the original sales book and viticultural log. Then, he ushered us into a large tasting room. Once we were seated inside and outfitted with stemware, Paul began to pour his wines, as outside, the rain began to pour. But, the poor weather did nothing to dampen Paul’s spirits; he remained upbeat, in keeping with the previously ascribed philosophy. For us, the visit was quite wonderful and the wines showed beautifully. And my philosophy? “When life gives you lemons, sell them to buy wine,” especially if it’s Chateau Siaurac 2010.
Babourche (above and below)
Drink Wisely & Well
All content and images, copyright © 2013 Tracy Ellen Kamens. All rights reserved. www.ItsAWinederfulLife.com | contactme (at) TracyEllenKamens.com 16
Front cover: Place de la Bourse; Back Cover: Saint-André Cathedral