December 2009 by Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia

Privilege knows no boundaries.

Carried by the Global Elite, the world over.

By invitation only. For expression of interest, please call Singapore: + (65) 6295 6293 Hong Kong: + (852) 2277 2233 Thailand: + (66) 2273 5445

EXCLUSIVELY FOR AMERICAN EXPRESS® PLATINUM CARDMEMBERS RITZ-CARLTON RESERVE PHULAY BAY

Venture to a captivating corner of the world, where glistening sands and blue skies converge with the Andaman Sea, and where the charm and natural beauty of Thailand blends with an aura of serenity and discovery. Once there, Phulay Bay, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, envelops you in an incomparable setting featuring: A private resort located 40 minutes from Krabi International Airport and two hours from Phuket International Airport. Outstanding opportunities exist to explore the area’s wealth of natural beauty with pristine islands and Panom Benja National Park. Luxuriously appointed, spacious villas are set in tropical gardens or offering ocean views. Lavish amenities including rain forest showers, indoor and outdoor baths, spacious walk-in wardrobes, and verandas with lounge beds. A selection of casual and formal dining, complemented by gourmet Royal Thai specialties, extensive wine lists, live entertainment and captivating views complete the experience.

EXCLUSIVE OFFERS FOR PLATINUM CARDMEMBERS STAY 3 NIGHTS, PAY FOR 2 / STAY 4 NIGHTS, PAY FOR 3 Inclusions • Daily breakfast for two • Upgrade to the next room or villa category (subject to availability at check-in) • Early check-in at 12noon and late check-out at 4pm • A special amenity credit of USD100 per stay for food & beverage or spa * Offer valid from December 10, 2009, to March 26, 2010

* Terms & Conditions Minimum stay of three consecutive nights is required. Offer valid for bookings made between December 10, 2009, and March 26, 2010, and for stay December 10, 2009, through March 31, 2010. Travel must be completed by March 31, 2010. Complimentary night(s) will be credited upon check-out. Offer is valid for new reservations only. Offer is non-transferable and non encashable. Payment must be made with an American Express® Platinum Card in the Cardmember’s name. Other terms & conditions may apply.

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE ABOVE EXCLUSIVE OFFERS OR TO MAKE A BOOKING, CALL THE PLATINUM CARD® SERVICE: SINGAPORE: +(65) 6392 1177 (option 1) HONG KONG: +(852) 2277 2233 THAILAND: +(66) 2 273 5599

(Destinations)12.09 Scotland 136

Paris 94 Aspen 114

Taipei 54 Bangkok 36, 124

Laos 39, 146

World Weather This Month -40oF -20oF -40oC

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Issue Index ASIA Beijing 36 China 39 Kyoto 60 Nepal 154 Seoul 36 Shanghai 20

EUROPE London 66 Scotland 136 Paris 52, 94 THE AMERICAS Aspen 114

Currency Converter Singapore Hong Kong Thailand Indonesia Malaysia Vietnam Macau Philippines Burma Cambodia Brunei Laos US ($1)

(SGD)

(HKD)

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(VND)

1.40

7.75

33.4

9,565

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7.98

47.6

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Source: www.xe.com (exchange rates at press time).

DEC E M B E R 2 0 0 9| T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M

M A P BY E T H A N CO R N E L L

Laos 39, 146 Malaysia 39 Philippines 39 Singapore 36, 37, 39, 64 Taipei 54 Thailand 20, 36, 39 Vietnam 39, 100

SOUTHEAST ASIA Bali 85 Bangkok 36, 124 Cambodia 36, 39 Hong Kong 20, 36, 39 Indonesia 39 Jakarta 20

t r a v e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m | v o l 0 3 | i s s u e 1 2

(contents)12.09 >136 A field just south of Elgin, in the Scottish Highlands.

114 Rocky Mountain High In Aspen, JULIAN RUBINSTEIN finds a mix of audacious wealth, chic restaurants and dangerously good skiing. Photographed by MARTHA CAMARILLO. Guide and map 123 124 Best of Bangkok Where to sleep like royalty, why 8

the Grand Palace isn’t the only tourist spot in town, where to find a potent martini and why a four-table restaurant could be the answer to your seafood prayers. It’s all here. By JENNIFER CHEN and CHRIS KUCWAY. Photographed by CEDRIC ARNOLD 136 Made in Scotland In search of the centuries-old traditions, HEATHER SMITH MACISAAC carves a route through the country and discovers why—

dece m b e r 2 0 0 9| t r a v e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m

when it comes to tartans, cashmere and tweed—some things will always be done by hand. Photographed by MARTIN MORRELL. Guide and map 145 146 Off the Map After becoming the first foreigner to visit a remote village in northern Laos, ANDREW BURKE discovers that the local attitude towards ecotourism, while in its infancy, is headed in the right direction. Guide and map 153

martin morrell

114-146 Features

(Contents)12.09 Departments Cover C

12 Editor’s Note 16 Contributors 18 Letters 20 Best Deals 22 Ask T+L 27 Strategies 154 My Favorite Place

Second-anniversary cover illustrated by Wasinee Chantakorn. Cover concept by T+L SEA team.

> 100 > 39

64 Trends Singapore’s independent bookshop revolution. BY MELANIE LEE 66 Hotspot A one-stop food destination in London is the talk of the town. BY KATIE BOWMAN

35-66 Insider 36 Newsflash The 2010 Trend Report with the latest on mixed drinks, slow food, Southeast Asian resort gems and top chefs at work in the region. 39 T+L Picks Top spots to eat, drink, shop, stay and play in Southeast Asia. 52 Cool Jobs Cedric Casanova ran away from the circus to hunt down the world’s best olive oils. BY ALEXANDRA MARSHALL 54 Classics Perennial street-food favorites in Taipei. BY ROBYN ECKHARDT 60 Navigator A quick guide to Japan’s ancient capital of Kyoto. BY JAIME GROSS 10

71-80 85-100 Stylish Traveler T+L Journal 71 Shopping A range of of great holiday gifts for the travelers on your list. 80 Must-Haves Playful but practical pieces that will have you ready for sun and surf. > 71

85 Dispatch Could a new luxury resort built to strict, up-to-date environmental standards represent the tipping point for ever-growing Bali? JENNIFER CHEN investigates. 94 Shopping From antiques-filled flea markets to cult designer boutiques and hidden bargain stops, LYNN YAEGER navigates Paris with a trio of in-the-know locals. 100 Portfolio Having spent the better part of the past two decades documenting Vietnam, Hong Kong–based photographer PETER STEINHAUER now plans a return to the fast-changing country.

C L O C K W I S E F R O M FA R L E F T : C O U R T E S Y O F N E S T A N G K O R ; C H A R L E S M A S T E R S ; P E T E R S T E I N H A U E R ; D AV I E S + S TA R R

> 80

(Editor’s Note) 12.09

FEW WEEKS BACK, I WAS IN SINGAPORE ATTENDING ANOTHER

successful Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia party, where we celebrated the Asian winners of T+L’s World’s Best Awards. The party was also to announce a brandnew milestone in the development of T+L SEA, so it’s with great pleasure—and with many thanks to our hard-working digital team—that I am proud to announce the launch of T+L Southeast Asia online, at www.TravelandLeisureAsia.com. Our new website was constructed with one aim in mind: to extend our success into the heady world of the Internet for the beneﬁt of you, our valued readers. So what we’ve not done is exactly replicate the magazine online—this would not serve you at all, and it’s our opinion that these highly polished printed pages, dripping with lavish color and award-winning travel journalism, can never be replicated. What we have done is create a website that serves you breaking news, exclusive online-

only listings, a fabulous travel booking service, and everything else you’d expect from a T+L-branded product. But more to the point, the website—and, in particular, the Blog section—is there for your own comments, reviews, photos and pretty much anything you want to talk about that’s travel-, lifestyle- and Asiarelated. This is your time to shine on what we’re conﬁdent will be one of Asia’s leading travel websites; after all, we are the leading travel magazine in the region. Sign up now and you stand a chance to win some fabulous travel prizes—see page 24 for more details. As a ﬁnal note this issue, I’d like to also mark this, our second anniversary issue, with a big thanks to all the T+L team, without whom we would not have gotten here, 25 issues in. It’s been a wild ride, but—as always—our success is also down to Thanks to all of you, and do travel safe this festive season.—MATT LEPPARD TRAVEL + L EISURE EDITORS, WRITERS AND PHOTOGRAPHERS ARE THE INDUSTRY’S MOST RELIABLE SOURCES. WHILE ON ASSIGNMENT, THEY TRAVEL INCOGNITO WHENEVER POSSIBLE AND DO NOT TAKE PRESS TRIPS OR ACCEPT FREE TRAVEL OF ANY KIND. 12

DECE M B E R

2 0 0 9| T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M

C H E N P O VA N O N T

our readers, who constantly support us with warm words of encouragement.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ART DIRECTOR FEATURES EDITORS ART EDITOR SENIOR DESIGNER EDITORIAL ASSISTANT

Matt Leppard Anjan Das Jennifer Chen Chris Kucway Ellie Brannon Wannapha Nawayon Wasinee Chantakorn

REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS / PHOTOGRAPHERS Paul Ehrlich (editor-at-large), Brent Madison, Adam Skolnick, Robyn Eckhardt, Sonia Kolesnikov-Jessop, Lara Day, Naomi Lindt, Cedric Arnold, Steve McCurry, Peter Steinhauer, Nat Prakobsantisuk, Graham Uden, Darren Soh

CHAIRMAN PRESIDENT PUBLISHING DIRECTOR

PUBLISHER DIRECTOR SINGAPORE / ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER DIGITAL MEDIA MANAGER BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGERS CONSULTANT, HONG KONG/MACAU CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER PRODUCTION MANAGER PRODUCTION GROUP CIRCULATION MANAGER

J.S. Uberoi Egasith Chotpakditrakul Rasina Uberoi-Bajaj

Robert Fernhout Lucas W. Krump Pichayanee Kitsanayothin Michael K. Hirsch Kin Kamarulzaman Shea Stanley Gaurav Kumar Kanda Thanakornwongskul Supalak Krewsasaen Porames Chinwongs

AMERICAN EXPRESS PUBLISHING CORPORATION PRESIDENT/CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT/CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT/CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT/EDITORIAL DIRECTOR VICE PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, STRATEGIC INSIGHTS, MARKETING & SALES EXECUTIVE EDITOR, INTERNATIONAL PUBLISHING DIRECTOR, INTERNATIONAL DIRECTOR OF INTERNATIONAL ADVERTISING DIGITAL ASSET MANAGER

Ed Kelly Mark V. Stanich Paul B. Francis Nancy Novogrod Jean-Paul Kyrillos Cara S. David Mark Orwoll Thomas D. Storms Madelyn A. Roberts Marc Abdeldaim

TRAVEL+LEISURE SOUTHEAST ASIA VOL. 3, ISSUE 12 Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia is published monthly by Media Transasia Limited, Room 1205-06, 12/F, Hollywood Centre, 233 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2851-6963; Fax: +852 2851-1933; under license from American Express Publishing Corporation, 1120 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10036, United States of America. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording or any information storage or retrieval systems, without permission in writing from the Publisher. Produced and distributed by Media Transasia Thailand Ltd., 14th Floor, Ocean Tower II, 75/8 Soi Sukhumvit 19, Sukhumvit Road, Klongtoeynue, Wattana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand. Tel: +66 2 204-2370. Printed by Comform Co., Ltd. (+66 2 368-2942–7). Color separation by Classic Scan Co., Ltd. (+66 2 291-7575). While the editors do their utmost to verify information published, they do not accept responsibility for its absolute accuracy.

This edition is published by permission of AMERICAN EXPRESS PUBLISHING CORPORATION 1120 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10036, United States of America. Reproduction in whole or in part without the consent of the copyright owner is prohibited. © Media Transasia Thailand Ltd. in respect of the published edition.

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Special Promotion

Kayaking in the crystal waters characteristic of the Peninsula de Baja California

THE BEAUTIFUL BAJA CALIFORNIA PENINSULA WHALE WONDERLAND Baja California is the place where the majestic grey whale mates and gives birth. Every season hundreds of people from all over the world come to Baja California to see the whales up close. They even get an opportunity to touch the whales who seem just as curious about the human visitors. One of the places where you can see the grey whales and enjoy the incredible fauna distinctive of the Peninsula Baja California is El Vizcaino. In 1993, UNESCO listed the “Whale Sanctuary of El Vizcaino” as a Natural World Heritage Site and International Biosphere Reserve. UNIQUE LANDSCAPE Baja California has the most extensive area of cardón cactus (Pachycereus pringlei) in the world. The region’s contrasting desert and sea landscapes provide a truly unique holiday experience. UNUSUAL HERITAGE The rock paintings in La Sierra de San Francisco (San Francisco Mountains) were added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1993. These stunning pre-historic paintings mainly depict images of humans, wildlife and sea creatures and are drawing numerous visitors to Baja California every year. Ecotourism and adventure activities ﬂourish in Baja California

Desertic landscape

Exquisite food and wine can be enjoyed in Baja California

The Baja California Peninsula has the waters on the Paciﬁc Ocean to the west and the Gulf of California to the east. The Gulf of California has one of the most diverse and rich maritime fauna in all of México.

WINE TRAIL In the north, the Wine Route connects numerous local wineries and large grape vineyards with attractions for sightseeing, lots of shopping and fashionable restaurants. This part of Baja California is blessed with a Mediterranean-type climate which is ideal for the cultivation of grapes. Chenin Blanc, Colombard, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay grapes are cultivated primarily for making excellent white wines, while Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Grenache, Carignan, Barbera, Nebbiolo and Zinfandel are used for reds. Almost 90 percent of the country’s wine production takes place just north of Ensenada at “El Valle de Guadalupe” (Guadalupe Valley) and “El Valle de San Antonio de las Minas” (San Antonio Valley). TRADITIONAL CUISINE When visiting the different cities of the Peninsula of Baja California, you can enjoy the exquisite and authentic Mexican cuisine. Traditional dishes are seafood paella or lobster served with beans, rice and giant flour tortillas. There are also some world known recipes that were originally created in Baja California, such as the Caesar’s salad, the Clamato and the refreshing Margaritas. Rock Paintings in La Sierra de San Francisco

(Contributors) 12.09

Robyn Eckhardt wrote this month’s look at the beef-noodle capital of the world (“A Taste of Taipei,” page 54). “I was astonished at the truly delicious street specialties sold in nearly every nook and cranny of the city,” she says of her ﬁrst visit to Taipei. “I’m heartened by the fact that the folks running this forwardlooking city have not waged war on street vendors.” Eckhardt also contributes to Afar and the Wall Street Journal Asia.

Andrew Burke Visiting Laos is always a joy, but Burke’s journey to a, dare we say, undiscovered mountaintop village in the north of the country (“Off the Map,” page 146) underscores why many of us travel. “It doesn’t take long for Laos to get into your soul,” he says. “The further you get off the beaten path, the more hospitable the people become.” Burke also writes for The Independent and the Australian Financial Review.

Cedric Arnold, left. Pak Khlong Talat, Bangkok’s flower market.

Martin Morrell

Shooting both landscapes and tartans for this month’s “Made in Scotland” (page 136) Morrell came back with some sound advice about wearing wool: “Don’t get wet. You’ll smell like sheep.” He also advises that visitors be patient with Scotland’s iffy weather and that they learn some always comical local expressions, such as Cheers the noo!, which translates simply as goodbye.

A BOV E , F RO M TO P : CO U RT ESY O F C E D R I C A R N O L D ; C E D R I C A R N O L D. B E L O W, F R O M L E F T : D AV I D H A G E R M A N ; C O U R T E S Y O F A N D R E W B U R K E ; C O U R T E S Y O F M A R T I N M O R R E L L

edric Arnold After eight years of being based in the city, Arnold says he’s never bored of photographing Bangkok (“Best of Bangkok,” page 124). “Some parts of the city are constantly on the move, while others maintain the same old chaos amid crumbling architecture and mindnumbing trafﬁc.” Out of all of that, he’s come up with some memorable portraits of often-photographed areas and people in the bustling Thai capital. “The chaos is what both irritates and excites.”

(Letters)12.09 insider

Where the Good Food Is Clockwise from below: Or lua, crispy oyster omelet; Yaowarat Road in Bangkok’s Chinatown; chef David Thompson.

O C TO B E R

Bangkok life today—only became widespread in the 1960’s and 70’s, and even then, many Thais shunned it, fearing that being seen buying their meals from a stall would cloud their reputations. Women who fed their families street food were jeeringly called “plastic bag housewives.” That’s what David Thompson, the acclaimed Australian chef behind London’s Nahm restaurant and one of the world’s leading authorities on Thai food, tells me over smoked

F R O M T O P : A U S T I N B U S H ; WA S I N E E C H A N TA KO R N ; A U S T I N B U S H

HERE’S AN ADAGE AMONG Bangkokians that says there are no good Thai restaurants in Bangkok. That is, the fancier the surroundings, the more likely the food will turn out to be bland and insipid ( farangized, if you will). But if you forage with the locals among the city’s legions of mobile street stalls and no-name holes-in-thewall, you’ll be rewarded with Thai food at its full glory. Surprisingly, street food— which is such an integral part of

C L O C K W I S E F R O M L E F T: WA S I N E E C H A N TA KO R N ( 2 ) ; A U S T I N B U S H

The Real Chinatown. Master Australian chef David Thompson takes T+L on a quick tour of some of his favorite, down-home discoveries in Bangkok. By JENNIFER CHEN

THAILAND

think more about the scene once dinner is over and the sun sets around Asia would be great too.

| the expert duck in Bangkok’s Chinatown. Due out later this month, the follow-up to his 2002 awardwinning cookbook, Thai Food, is devoted to Thailand’s street eats, and I’ve asked if I can tag along with him and his friends on a trawl of some of his favorite streetside spots in Chinatown, where some of the city’s best vendors still ply their trade. Chinese immigrants, after all, popularized street dining in Thailand. “I don’t usually make recommendations for street food because the owners are so fickle sometimes,” Thompson says, noting that many vendors like the itinerant life, which includes impromptu holidays. “It’s an admirable way of life; it’s a questionable way of doing business; and it’s infuriating when you’re hungry,” he quips. A self-described history buff, Thompson is fearsomely erudite. While we’re sitting in one of those interminable Bangkok traffic jams, he holds forth on his theory of the origins of kanom jeen (rice noodles served in curry), citing everything from its etymology to the spread of Theravada Buddhism. Our first stop, he assures us, is a real treat: or lua, or oyster omelet. Hoi tod, a squishier version, is a commonly found dish, but at Naay Mong (539 Plubplachai Rd.; 66-2/6231890; omelets Bt65), the omelets are cooked to a crisp in rendered pork fat over a charcoal fire and then topped with oysters; with hoi tod, the bivalves are folded into the batter. Thompson’s right—it’s a revelation of contrasting textures: crunchy outside, but light inside, with a generous scattering of sweet, plump oysters that pop in your mouth. The trick lies in the ratio between rice and tapioca flours

as well as the well-seasoned iron pan used to make the omelets, says Thompson. He also points out the secret to dining well in Bangkok: many vendors specialize in one dish, which means they have complete mastery of that one dish. It’s the theory of achieving genius through 10,000 hours of practice on display at a barebones storefront in Bangkok. Our omelets are gone within minutes, so Thompson shepherds us next door to an Khao Tom Jay Suay (547 Plubplachai; 66-2/223-9592; three dishes Bt200), where he orders smoked duck, tiny, stir-fried clams and minced fatty pork fried with olive paste, namliab pad moo sab. The atmosphere, as with most of these places, is negligible: ﬂuorescent lighting, a rusty fan, a few battered aluminum tables on the sidewalk. The only dash of style is a stall crowned with panes of colored glass and »

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—MIKE

Thai-Chinese Treats From top: Bua loi nam khing, a popular dessert; a typical food stall in Chinatown; Khao Tom Jay Suay, an open-air eatery that serves smoked duck.

T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A

C O M | O C T O B E R

2 0 0 9

LETTER OF THE MONTH Real Thai Food

“The Real Chinatown” [October 2009], which explores local Thai food, is really a mind-blowing article. It’s good to know that tourists like me can find authentic Thai food in Bangkok’s Chinatown. The first time I went to Bangkok by myself, I was intrigued to try original Thai food at the city’s finer establishments. While fivestar food is not bad, knowing I can also get great meals in Chinatown means that I have a new dining destination the next time I visit. These insider stories are exactly what I’m looking for. — P U J I TA M A

TA NA M A S , JA K A RTA

Open All Night I travel both for work and pleasure, so it’s good to see T+L cover new watering holes [“New Hotel Bars in Asia” and “After Hours in Beijing,” September 2009] but could you start doing this more often? You’ve got loads of food stories in every issue, but I

✉

M A R S H A L L , TA I P E I

Where Food is Personal I live in a city where I love to eat, so it was a great surprise to read two articles about dining here [“A Taste of Yesteryear” and “Feasts of Hong Kong,” October 2009]. Your story on old-school eateries made my mouth water for dishes I haven’t had in ages. The article by Gary Shteyngart had me laughing all the way to my favorite dinner spot, though I could have done without Daniel Ng’s repetitive commentary. I’ve never suffered from a “four-hour goose coma” but it’s good to read about it. —STEPHEN

C H A N G , H O N G KO N G

A Story with Substance If finding the right balance for sustainability is the central theme surrounding today’s dialogue on the environment, Bruce Schoenfeld’s article [“Wild Retreats,” September 2009] in the eco-travel issue artfully explored this delicate issue. The story also vividly describes the pleasures of interacting with nature. It’s a timely reminder to look beyond tourist spots and understand the role we play when we travel. In today’s mélange of lifestyle magazines that are sorely lacking in substance, it was a pleasant surprise to find such an article. Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia has definitely taken a step in the right direction. — N G E OW

SHANG LIN, SINGAPORE

E-MAIL T+L SEND YOUR LETTERS TO EDITOR @ TRAVELANDLEISURESEA.COM AND LET US KNOW YOUR THOUGHTS ON RECENT STORIES OR NEW PLACES TO VISIT. LETTERS CHOSEN MAY BE EDITED FOR CLARITY AND SPACE. THE LETTER OF THE MONTH RECEIVES A FREE ONE-YEAR SUBSCRIPTION TO TRAVEL + LEISURE ( SOUTHEAST ASIA ONLY). READER OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN LETTERS DO NOT NECESSARILY REFLECT THOSE OF TRAVEL + LEISURE SOUTHEAST ASIA, MEDIA TRANSASIA LTD., OR AMERICAN EXPRESS PUBLISHING.

(Best Deals) 12.09 DEAL OF THE MONTH

Pinnacle of Indulgence package at Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers (852/2732-6331; The hip dusitD2 baraquda pattaya.

sheraton.com/ hongkong). What’s Included A one-night

Usher in the new year in style with these seven great getaways

stay in a Main House

■ CHINA Preview rate at The Peninsula Shanghai (86-21/2327-2888; peninsula.com). What’s Included Accommodation in a superior room; daily breakfast; and round-trip airport transfer. Cost RMB2,009 per night, through February 28, 2010. Savings 37 percent.

Wine Bar with free ﬂow

■ HONG KONG Suite Memories at The Island Shangri-La Hong Kong (852/2820-8333; shangri-la.com). What’s Included Stay two nights, get a third night free; one-way airport transfer; daily breakfast; broadband Internet access; and insuite check-in. Cost From HK$8,000 per night, through February 28, 2010. Savings Up to 40 percent. 20

■ THAILAND Suite Escape at dusitD2 baraquda pattaya (66-3/842-5611; dusit.com). What’s Included A three-night stay in a Studio suite; daily breakfast; a bottle of sparkling wine; roundtrip airport transfer; free local phone calls and high-speed Internet; 20 percent off laundry, spa and all dining venues; a 60-minute facial or massage; and late check-out at 3 P.M. Cost Bt20,100. Savings 47 percent. Ultimate Savings Offer at the Metropolitan Bangkok (metropolitan.bangkok.como.bz; 66-2/625-3333). What’s Included Reduced rates on rooms if you book and pay seven days in advance. Cost From US$99 per night, two-night minimum, through December 31. Savings 62 percent.

DECE M B E R 2 0 0 9| T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M

for two at the Oyster & of champagne; and late check-out at 4 P.M. Cost HK$2,680, through 31 December. Savings 62 percent.

The Sheraton’s Oyster & Wine Bar.

F R O M T O P : C O U R T E SY O F D U S I T H O T E L S A N D R E S O R T S ; C O U R T E SY O F S H E R AT O N H O N G KO N G H O T E L & T O W E R

Historical Discovery package at the Sheraton Xian Hotel (86-29/8426-1888; sheraton.com/ xian). What’s Included Accommodation in a deluxe room; daily breakfast; a one-day historical tour of the Terra-cotta Warriors Museum, the Hua Qing Hot Spring and the Big Wild Goose Pagoda with an English-speaking tour guide with lunch; and round-trip airport transfer. Cost RMB2,580 per night, through March 31, 2010. Savings 30 percent.

■ INDONESIA Opening Offer Seasonal Choices at the Mandarin Oriental Jakarta (62-21/39838888; mandarinoriental.com). What’s Included Daily breakfast; late check-out at 6 P.M. (upon availability); and if you stay two nights, a US$50 voucher for the hotel’s restaurants. Cost From US$159 per night, through December 28. Savings Up to 43 percent

Suite; Sunday brunch

Promotional Feature

H AR B O UR P L A ZA 8 D E GR E E S J US T O P E N E D : H O N G KO N G’ S N EW E S T, F R E S H E S T D E S I G N H OT E L

he all-new Harbour Plaza 8 Degrees is causing a sensation in Hong Kong, with its super-chic design and modern flourishes. The Harbour Plaza experience starts at the ultra-modern lobby, which has a unique and innovative twist—literally! Hong Kong-based designer Patrick Leung of PAL Design has made an optical illusion and created an environment where it feels as though you’re inside Italy’s Leaning Tower of Pisa. The effect is stunning. Featuring 702 charming, back-to-basics guestrooms outfitted with soothing earthy décor, the property leads by example. Other design twists can be found in the Café 8 Degrees restaurant—one of two stylish restaurants serving Asian and international food—the elevators and other hidden areas. There are also inviting bars, a fullservice business center, the appealing Harbour Club Lounge, a state-of-the-art fitness center and a distinctively shaped outdoor swimming pool and whirlpool surrounded by lush landscaping. MICE events are also well catered for, with one large banquet room divisible into nine meeting rooms with more than 4,500 square feet of space equipped with multi-function room lighting and the latest audio-visual technology. Guests staying on the top three executive floors also have full access to the exclusive Harbour Club Lounge, featuring daily complimentary breakfast, afternoon tea, evening refreshments and personalized concierge servic-

es in a relaxing, upscale space. To cater for long-staying guests, 104 of the rooms and suites are fully equipped with kitchenette units. Of course, it’s not just the design and amenities that makes Harbour Plaza 8 Degrees so special. General manager Christina Cheng reinforces the importance of having not only a unique hotel, but a unique spirit within the service by incorporating a very simple rule of thumb: “We want to create a happy hotel with happy staff, and then we can have happy guests,” Cheng says. Located near the former Kai Tak Airport area, the hotel is close to shopping and entertainment areas, including MTR Hunghom Station, Kowloon Bay shopping and the bustling district of Tsimshatsui, all of which are reachable by the hotel’s complimentarily shuttle bus. This provides not just a ride, but a city tour through one of Hong Kong’s oldest districts. From this distinctive location, you can easily explore the city center on foot. Arriving and departing from the airport is effortless with shuttle services to and from the entrance of the hotel and airport. Experience the all-new, all-refreshing experience in Hong Kong! FOR BOOKINGS AND RESERVATIONS: Tel: (852) 3900 3000 Fax: (852) 3900 3008 Online: http://promo.hp8d.harbour-plaza.com

ON AIRPORT LAYOVERS BETWEEN FLIGHTS IN ASIA, WHERE CAN I GO TO RELAX? —PETRA HUGHES, KUALA LUMPUR

Inevitably in Asia, you’re going to be stuck in an airport. At Singapore’s Changi Airport, for instance, the Ultimate Transit Haven Spa (65/6542-0518; theultimate.com.sg) offers treatments as brief as 30 minutes priced from S$80. If transiting through Tokyo, Narita Airport’s Oxygen Lounge Juko (81476/32-8067; near gate 26) has 10- and 20-minute ﬂavored oxygen sessions— everything from eucalyptus menthol to cinnamon—that are said to alleviate jet lag. In Hong Kong, try the Regal Airport Hotel’s OM Spa (852/22866266; regalhotel.com), where two-hour packages are priced from HK$1,090.

12.09

Can you suggest some new and inexpensive beach resorts to visit around Asia? —TANYA CHAN, HONG KONG

The search for good, inexpensive and new beach resorts in the region is a never-ending quest. About 200 kilometers from Saigon in Phan Thiet, the Amaryllis Resort (84-62/371-9099; amaryllisresort.com) faces a sweep of the South China Sea and offers nightly stays from US$80. If Bali is more your style, The Breezes Resort & Spa (62361/730-573; breezesbali.com) has upgraded its facilities resulting in a more modern feel to the Seminyak resort area, with nightly rates starting at US$100. In the Philippines, Daluyon Beach and Mountain Resort (6348/723-0889; daluyonresort.com) on Sabang Beach in Palawan has nightly rates priced from US$90. In the current economic climate, how important is tipping? —PRAPATSORN SUWANDET, BANGKOK

How much to tip all depends on whether you’re asking a server or a patron. Either way, the best idea is to familiarize yourself with tipping rules before you travel. Where tipping servers is not expected in Japan and only for exceptional service in Australia and New Zealand, around the rest of Asia, rounding up is the norm. That means leaving some of the change from your bill or, in the case of particularly good service, more at your discretion. It is important to remember that most wait staff are paid minimum wage and depend upon tips to make a living. Even in the U.S., the base pay for waiters is around US$7 an hour.

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BEST OF THE WEB

With travel websites proliferating by the day (if not hour), how do you know which ones really work? T+L put hundreds to the test to uncover the top 45 you need to bookmark before planning your next trip. PLUS: What Bing’s fare-forecasting technology can do for you, a look at our favorite traveling Tweeters, our online editors’ Web picks and more Reported and written by ANDREA BENNETT with LISA CHENG, and SARAH STORMS. Illustrated by JOHN PIRMAN

JENNIFER FLOWERS, BREE SPOSATO

>>TWITTER TRAVEL WATCH Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get put off by all the useless chatter out there. On the following pages, we give you ďŹ ve globetrotting Tweeters whose travels are worth following.

TERST A

TERS T A R

Yoko Ono

>> STAFF PICKS We asked T+L’s online editing team to share where they go for travel advice — and a little amusement

TRAVEL TOOLBOX

Seven sites that every globe-trotter should keep handy

DEC E M B E R 2 0 0 9| T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M

Winter warmers. Where to taste Taipei’s most iconic dishes <(page 54)

Classic Japan. Modern meets traditional in beautiful Kyoto <(page 60)

On the shelf. Singapore sees a bibliophile revolution (page 64)>

• Cocktails with a difference • T+L SEA picks the best of 2009 • Superstar chefs head to Asia

(Insider) Photo credit by tktktk

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T : J A M E S M E R R E L L ; D AV I D H A G E R M A N ; © K I N O K O S T U D I O / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M ; C O U R T E S Y O F D U S I T H O T E L S A N D R E S O R T S ; D A R R E N S O H

Pushing boundaries. The latest foodie hotspot in London <(page 66)

Where to GoWhat to EatWhere to StayWhat to Buy

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| newsﬂash 2 0 1 0

T R E N D

R E P O R T

DRINK

Molecular gastronomy moves from the kitchen to the bar as mixologists in Asia experiment with Matthew Bax at Tippling Club. mad-scientist methods. Singapore’s Tippling Club (8D Dempsey Rd.; 65/6475-2217; drinks for two S$50) features drinks by Australian mixologist Terrace at FINDS. Matthew Bax. Try the Nitro Cocktail Muesli— citrus foams served in a cereal bowl and doused in champagne. In Hong Kong, Antonio Lai of M Bar, The Mandarin Oriental HK FINDS (2nd ﬂoor, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central; 852/2522-9318; drinks for two HK$200) uses test tubes and a smoke gun to create crowd-pleasers like Cherry Jack Daniels—a cherrywoodimbued concoction. The Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong’s M Bar (5 Connaught Rd., Central; 852/2522-0111; drinks for two HK$180) gives cosmopolitans a makeover with cranberry foam. Look out for the molecular menu, developed by New York’s cocktail maestro Eben Freeman, which debuts next month.—E L L E K WA N

4 Rivers Floating Eco-Lodge. A villa at Supanniga Home.

HOTELS Sedhapura overlooks the Mekong.

Slow Food Comes to Asia The slow food movement has been picking up speed, nowhere more so than in Asia. With groups devoted to regional food traditions springing up from Bangkok to Tokyo, restaurateurs and chefs are taking notice. In Seoul, eateries specializing in centuries-tested specialties like doenjang, or bean paste, are popping up around town: try the doenjang bibimbab at Toenmaru Doenjangyesul (Behind the Seoho Art Gallery on the corner of Insa-dong Crossing; 82-2/739-5683; lunch for two KRW12,000). Down south in Bali, restaurateur Pak Adi Kharisma has created a line of products based on ubi, a sweet potato. Sample his ubi juice, ice cream and vacuum-packed ubi paste at his restaurant, Warung Sela Boga (238 Jln. Teuku Umar; 62-361/790-5900; lunch for two Rp40,000). Slow food has long been integral to Japanese cuisine, and there’s been a resurgence of interest; the Yokohama Slow Food Fair, held twice each year, features both artisanal and organic producers. In Beijing, The Orchard E AT e, Cuigezhuang Township, (Hegezhuang Village, Shunyi district; 86-10/6433-6270; the-orchard.com. cn; lunch for two RMB400) serves upscale, organic comfort food grown on site.—M A N U E L A ZONINSEIN

Gems in the Rough

Adventurous travelers with a soft spot for creature comforts take heart. Over the past year, we’ve noticed small, stylish hotels popping up in the region’s more remote corners. In Cambodia’s Cardamom Mountains, the newly opened 4 Rivers Floating Eco-Lodge (Tatai; 855/17-240-859; ecolodges.asia; villas from US$102) is a resort offering 18 generously sized tented villas, all equipped with satellite TV, Wi-Fi and deep bathtubs. Near the 7th-century ruins of Sambor Prei Kuk stands Sambor Village (Brochea Thebatey, Kompong Thom; 855-62/961-391; samborvillage.com; doubles from US$50), a homey, 19-room inn with four-poster beds, tile ﬂoors and terraces. In Thailand’s northeast, Isaan isn’t necessarily remote, just neglected. But a handful of smart stays could change that. On the Mekong, Sedhapura (68 Moo 7, Ban Huay Mak Tay, Ubon Ratchathani; 66-45/351-174; tohsang.com; villas from Bt15,000) has two sprawling pool villas kitted up in modern Thai décor. Minimalist-chic Supanniga Home (130/9 Potisarn Rd., Khon Kaen; 66/89-944-4880; supannigahome.com; doubles from Bt5,000) mixes polished concrete with bamboo and local homespun.—J E N N I F E R C H E N

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F R O M T O P : C O U R T E SY O F T I P P L I N G C L U B ; C O U R T E SY O F F I N D S ; C O U R T E SY O F M A N D A R I N O R I E N TA L H O N G KO N G ; © T H E A N T H O N I U M / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M ; C O U R T E SY O F 4 R I V E R S F L O AT I N G E C O - L O D G E ; C O U R T E SY O F S U PA N N I G A H O M E ; C O U R T E SY O F S E D H A P U R A

MIX MASTER

Top Chefs

FOOD

C O U R T E S Y O F M A R I N A B AY S A N D S ( 6 )

Tetsuya Wakuda

Guy Savoy

Daniel Boulud

Celebrity chefs are coming to a restaurant near you. In Singapore, a roster of culinary heavyweights will be setting up shop at the mammoth Marina Bay Sands integrated resort (marinabaysands.com), slated to open next year. New York restaurateurs Daniel Boulud and Mario Batali will be rolling into town: Boulud with his casual-hip DB Bistro Moderne, and Batali with Pizzeria Mozza and Osteria Mozza. Hailing from closer to home, Tetsuya Wakuda is also coming to roost at the Marina Bay Sands with his only eatery

Wolfgang Puck

Santi Santamaria

Mario Batali

outside of Sydney. Spain’s Santi Santamaria and France’s Guy Savoy represent Europe. Santi will be a 100-seat restaurant divided into a formal dining room and a tapas bar–lounge, while Savoy will launch an outpost of his three Michelinstarred eponymous eatery. And what’s a casino without a steakhouse? California chef Wolfgang Puck’s CUT will sate carnivorous punters. Not to be left out, Hong Kong will welcome British chef Jamie Oliver, who will be opening Jamie’s Italian in mid-2010. Watch this space for more.—J . C .

Unforgettable places in Andalucia yet to be discovered.

www.andalucia.org www.spain.info 541 Orchard Road

# 09-04 Liat Tower

NATIONAL TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN SINGAPORE 238881 Tel: 65 6 73 73 008 Fax: 65 6 73 73 173

singapore@tourspain.es

t+l picks | insider

THE BEST OF

2009

F RO M R I G H T: PAU L A S G A R B I ; DA R R E N S O H ; CO U RT E SY O F H A RV EY N I C H O L S

EVEN WITH THE GLOBAL DOWNTURN, SOUTHEAST ASIA WELCOMED PLENTY OF EXCITING NEW OPENINGS THIS PAST YEAR. HERE, WE SELECT THE REGION’S HOTTEST RESTAURANTS, BARS, HOTELS, SHOPS AND MORE

Hansel, a hip boutique in Singapore.

The PuLi Hotel and Spa in Shanghai.

Dining at Harvey Nichols in Jakarta.

Reported and written by JENNIFER CHEN, LARA DAY, ROBYN ECKHARDT, HERMANTO, NAOMI LINDT and MANUELA ZONINSEIN. Edited by JENNIFER CHEN T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A

C O M | D E C E M B E R

2009

| t+l picks

Cambodia Deluxe Clockwise from top right: A drink from Nest Angkor; prawns at Nest Angkor; the pool at Elsewhere in Phnom Penh; the lobby at Phnom Penh’s River 108.

CAMBODIA EAT Siem Reap’s dining scene is changing so quickly it’s hard to keep up. Here are three outstanding newcomers: Start the day with the divine croissants and crisp baguettes at café-bakery La Boulangerie (Street 7, Old Market Area; 855/12-308-280; breakfast for two US$6). Later, swing by V&A (Street 9; 855/12653-023; dinner for two US$20), which stands for “veggies and alcohol,” an intimate spot that serves fantastic vegetarian food that even carnivores love; try the popular cashew-nut roast or grilled zucchini–eggplant–haloumi kebabs. Black Wheat (Street 6, Old Market Area; no phone; dinner for two US$14) dishes up hearty crêpes with innovative fi llings like Merguez sausage and scallops with raspberries. DRINK With a beach-lounge vibe and one of the region’s most comprehensive drink menus, Siem Reap’s Nest Angkor (Sivatha Blvd.; 855-63/966-381; nestangkor.com; drinks for two US$8) is this year’s chicest addition to the drinking and dining scene. In Phnom Penh, long-time favorite Elsewhere (2 Street 278; 855/12-660-232; elsewhere2asia.com; drinks for two US$6) has moved to a sleek new location, where the mostly expat crowd lounges by the two swimming pools by day and sips the signature passion-fruit cocktails by night. STAY Cambodia’s first butler-service hotel, The Sothea (Airport Rd.; 855-63/966-788; thesothea.com; doubles from US$400) in Siem Reap has 39 Old-World suites with hardwood floors, claw-foot tubs, and luxurious settees topped with silk roll cushions. The smart digs at River 108 (2 Street 108; 855-23/218-785; river108.com; doubles from US$68) offer prime views of Phnom Penh’s Tonle Sap. In a refreshing break from Asian minimalism/colonial nostalgia, the boutique hotel’s nearly all-white surroundings offset unexpected details like conical, metal lampshades and Victorian-style, gray velvet chairs. SHOP For funky accent pillows in bold geometric patterns and hand-woven Cambodian silk quilts, head to Tendance Khmère (4A Street 278, 855/12-584-661; tendance-khmere.fr), a Paris-based home décor shop that brings its Latin Quarter sensibility to Phnom Penh. CHINA EAT Sichuan restaurants are a dime-a-dozen in Beijing, but Dezhe (1 Bei Jixiang Hutong, off Jiaodaokou Nan Dajie, Dongcheng district; 86-10/6407-8615; dinner for two RMB100), a tiny restaurant tucked inside a busy hutong, stands out for its forthright cooking. You won’t go wrong with the jiama ji, poached chicken served in a Sichuan peppercorn–imbued

F RO M TO P : CO U RT ESY O F N EST A N G KO R ( 2 ) ; CO U RT ESY O F E L S E W H E R E ; CO U RT ESY O F R I V E R 1 0 8

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F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F H YAT T R E G E N C Y H O T E L ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E P E N I N S U L A S H A N G H A I ; C O U R T E S Y O F D - S ATA ; C O U R T E S Y O F T E N D A N C E K H M É R E

broth, and the xiangla huiguo, or pork belly. Though it had a rocky start, Super Ganbei (No. 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang district; 86-10/8675-1138; dinner for two RMB300) at the capital’s Ullens Center for Contemporary Art has found the path to culinary success. Helmed by inventive, Irishborn chef Brian McKenna, the kitchen sends out winners like Moroccan spiced chicken served with apple couscous and lime mint yogurt and the playful chocolate spring roll accompanied with mango salad and vanilla ice cream. PLAY Built to appeal to Beijing’s Russian community, the subterranean, cheerfully garish Chocolate (19 Ritan Bei Lu, across north gate of Ritan Park, Chaoyang district; 86-10/85613988) packs in revelers of all nationalities, who groove to the wee hours as house DJ’s spin hip-hop, techno and R&B. Make sure to catch their over-the-top stage show, complete with leggy performers, a 1980’s cover band and holograms. SHOP Carrie Lee, a Canadian-Korean lawyerturned-designer, uses ethnic fabrics and exotic skins sourced from throughout the region to create the covet-worthy handbags and accessories on display at D-SATA, or Dim Sum of All Things Asia (Unit A116, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang district; 86/134-39664067; d-sata.com). Socially conscious shoppers will approve of Lee’s use of recycled materials and the fair wages her artisans earn. Even better: bring in your own bag and get a 10 percent discount. STAY With its subdued hues, wood and tile floors, and Asian antiques, The PuLi Hotel and Spa (1 Changde Lu, Jing An District; 86-21/3203-9999; doubles from US$480, including breakfast, mini-bar and Internet) vies with the Park Hyatt Shanghai as the city’s calmest hotel. The 500-square-meter spa run by Anantara helps further a state of repose, while the elegant 32-meter Long Bar provides relaxation of another sort. Situated on The Bund, The Peninsula Shanghai (32 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu; 8621/2327-2888; peninsula.com; doubles from RMB3,200) pays homage to the Twenties and Thirties with a glamorous Art Deco look; the spacious, blue-and-white rooms boast the latest gadgets—book one facing the Huangpu River for a drop-dead view of Pudong’s futuristic skyline. HONG KONG EAT Chinese regional cuisine takes center-stage at Sha Tin 18 (4th floor, Hyatt Regency Hotel, 18 Chak Cheung St., Sha Tin; 852/3723-1234; hongkong.shatin.hyatt.com; dinner for two HK$500), where you’ll find skilled chefs recruited from around the mainland: Beijing’s Frank Qu presides over melt-in-your-mouth Peking duck, Xian’s Nicholas Zhang pulls and pounds tasty noodles and dumplings, »

Haute Living From top: The terrace at Hong Kong’s Sha Tin 18; a deluxe room, at The Peninsula Shanghai; clutches from D-SATA in Beijing; cushions from Tendance Khmére, in Phnom Penh.

T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A

C O M | D E C E M B E R

2009

| t+l picks

Hong Kong Stars Clockwise from above: A display at ECOLS boutique in Hong Kong; a harbor view room at The Upper House; the revamped Mira Hong Kong; Rock Bar, in Bali; grilled prawns at Hong Kong’s SML.

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Dongguan’s Nelson Zou oversees home-style wok cooking, and Shanghai’s Anthony Qin tempts with delectable desserts. The sleekly modern, gleaming blond-wood interior of SML (11th floor, Times Square, 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay; 852/2577-3444; dinner for two HK$600) treats hungry shoppers to high-end comfort food in small-, medium- and large-sized portions as well as a superb selection of wines poured from oenomatic dispensers. PLAY Suitably subterranean, Bassment (Lower ground floor, 13 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central; 852/2815-0868) is a hipster hangout complete with graffiti-inspired street art, comfy couches, indie, electro and dub-step DJ’s, and killer drinks deals, all perfectly suited for its twentysomething crowd looking for an alternative to late-night Lan Kwai Fong. SHOP If you’re looking for cool designer products with a conscience, head to NoHo and guiltlessly plunder the wares of ECOLS (8–10 Gough St., Central; 852/3106-4918; ecols.com), an “eco-lifestyle” store showcasing earth-friendly artists and designers. STAY Acclaimed local designer Andre Fu’s first hotel project, The Upper House (Pacific Place, 88 Queensway; 852/2918-1838, upperhouse.com; doubles from HK$3,388) offers pared-down sophistication studded with intriguing artworks by artists such as Japanese sculptor Hiroshiwata Sawada. Fresh from a US$65 million makeover, The Mira Hong Kong (118–130 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui; 852/23681111; the mirahotel.com; doubles from HK$1,760) features an alfresco bar serving tapas and funky cocktails as well as slick, ultra-high-tech, minimalist guest rooms that come in red, green and silver with original Arne Jacobsen egg chairs to match. On the opposite end of the design spectrum, Hullett House (1881 Heritage, Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui; 852/3988-0204; hulletthouse.com; suites from US$600) is housed in the beautifully restored former marine police headquarters. The 13 colonial-styled suites each has its own balcony overlooking Victoria Harbour as

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T : L A R A D AY ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E U P P E R H O U S E ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E M I R A H O N G K O N G ; C O U R T E S Y O F AYA N A R E S O R T A N D S P A ; C O U R T E S Y O F S M L

insider

well as Chinese artwork, while local gastromes fi ll the five restaurants, which range from an old-fashioned Cantonese teahouse to a refined European eatery. INDONESIA EAT Billed as Jakarta’s first gastro-pub, the cozy Elbow Room (24A Jln. Kemang Raya; 62-21/719-4274; dinner for two Rp400,000) in Kemang serves the best fried rice with pork belly in the capital. Upstairs, the bar boasts the city’s most extensive collection of imported beers. Chef Oscar Perez at the St. Regis Bali’s beachside, all-white Kayuputi (Kawasan Pariwisata, Nusa Dua; 62-361/847-8111; starwoodhotels.com; dinner for two Rp4,000,000) dazzles with tasting menus that feature local seafood, while awardwinning sommelier Harold Wiesmann steers diners towards perfect pairings. DRINK Jakartans flock to buzzing bistro-lounge Potato Head (Pacific Place Mall, Jln. Jendral Sudirman Kav 52-53; 6221/5797-3322; drinks for two Rp450,000) for the city’s most innovative cocktails. Try reinterpreted classics like ginger gin and peppered lime daiquiri, or, if you’re in a daring mood, order the pistachio rock melon martini that comes with ice cream. On Bali, the Ayana Resort’s open-air, steel-and-glass Rock Bar (Jln. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran; 62-361/170-2222; drinks for two Rp600,000 ) is perched 14 meters above the Indian Ocean, offering magnificent, 180-degree sea views. Sun-downers are de rigueur here; just don’t come too early or you’ll bake in the heat. SHOP England’s luxury emporium Harvey Nichols’s 9,000-square-meter Jakarta branch (East Mall Grand Indonesia, 1 Jln. MH Thamrin; 62-21/2358-1888) has been the year’s splashiest opening. Stella McCartney, Viktor & Rolf and Givenchy are just some of the labels fashion addicts will find here. Need a shopping break? Fuel up on chocolate martinis and delicious eggs Benedict at the chic, pale wood–clad Social House (Level 1; 62-21/23581818; ismayagroup/socialhouse; dinner for two Rp400,000). STAY Sustainability and high design commingle at the cliff-side Alila Villas Uluwatu on Bali’s southern coast (Jln. Belimbing Sari, Banjar Tambiyak, Desa Pecatu; 62361/848-2166; alilahotels.com; villas from US$617). Recycled ironwood and lava stone are used in the 84 pool villas, while one-of-a-kind, antique batik stamps adorn one of the resort’s dining rooms. Jakarta’s first world-class hotel re-opened this year after an extensive face-lift. Now called the Hotel Indonesia Kempinski (1 Jln. MH Thamrin; 62-21/2358-3800; kempinski-jakarta.com; doubles from US$136), the property has 289 eclectic guest rooms in purple, gray and cream hues; the modern-looking Marmalade Pantry restaurant serves one of the city’s best brunches; the pasta with crab meat and chili and the warm spinach salad are must-tries. »

THE ULTIMATE WEEKEND ESCAPE Enjoy an intimate weekend in romantic surroundings with exquisite service at Kuala Lumpur’s ultimate retreat Weekend Escape starts from MYR 600++ per night BENEFITS Welcome drink and cold towel upon arrival ü Breakfast buffet at The Restaurant Complimentary private bar ü Complimentary dry cleaning, laundry and pressing services All-day coffee and tea at The Lounge ü Evening cocktails and canapés at The Lounge Complimentary wireless and broadband Internet access Club Concierge Services ü Daily newspaper

OTHER PRIVILEGES 10% credit on Food & Beverage at The Restaurant Complimentary scheduled shuttle service to major attractions and shopping malls

TERMS AND CONDITIONS This offer is valid until 31st December 2010 Prior reservation is required and subject to room availability Rates are subject to 10% service charge and 5% government tax This offer is not applicable for groups and not valid in conjunction with other promotions The above promotion is valid for the nights of Friday, Saturday and Sunday only

JALAN LAPANGAN TERBANG SAAS 40150 SHAH ALAM SELANGOR DARUL EHSAN MALAYSIA T (603) 7843 1234

F (603) 7846 5443

reservations@thesaujana.com

www.ghmhotels.com

| t+l picks

Tropical Pleasures From top: Bunga Raya Resort, in Malaysian Borneo; the Amantaka in Luang Prabang; the resort’s restaurant, Veranda; Ibunda restaurant in Kuala Lumpur serves reﬁned Malay food.

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LAOS STAY Take a legendary heritage town and painstakingly restored colonial buildings and add elegantly understated design, amazing amenities and impeccable service, and you have the Amantaka (55/53 Kingkitsarath Rd., Ban Thongchaleun; 856-71/860-333; amanresorts.com; suites from US$400), Amanresorts’ new offering in Luang Prabang. Restoration of the UNESCO-listed former provincial hospital took a year and a half, producing 24 palatial suites that are graced with high ceilings and immense bathrooms with sunken tubs. MALAYSIA EAT Neo-Malay is the buzzword at Ibunda (251 Jln. Bukit Bintang; 60-3/2148-8488; dinner for two RM400), the brainchild of talented chef Zabadi Ibrahim. Highlights include udang kara bertih sagu, an appetizer of grilled lobster, caviar, lime sorbet and sago crackers, and ikan sultan goreng halia, sublimely moist and silky river ﬁsh with organic beans in a ginger-spiked prawn sauce. Fans of traditional kueh, or sweets, will delight in Zabadi’s ever-changing dessert menu, which showcases local fruit such as durian, sapodilla and honey jackfruit. SHOP A welcome addition to the upscale shopping scene in tony Bangsar, laurenB (4A, Jalan Telawi 4, Bangsar; 603/2282-5882) stocks well-priced casual separates and frilly frocks in natural fabrics such as cotton, linen and silk, all designed by an up-and-coming Paris-trained local who prides herself in catering to all sizes. Shop here with a good conscience; the label doesn’t do business with factories

F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F B U N G A R AYA R E S O R T ; C O U R T E S Y O F A M A N R E S O R T S ( 2 ) ; C O U R T E S Y O F I B U N D A

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F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F K AY U P U T I ; L A U R Y N I S H A K ; C O U R T E S Y O F S H A N G R I - L A H O T E L S A N D R E S O R T S

employing child labor, and for every ringgit spent, the shop donates a sen to charity. STAY Named for Malaysia’s national flower, the hibiscus, Bunga Raya Resort (Maloham Bay, Tunku Abdul Rahman Park, Gaya Island, Kota Kinabalu, Sabah; 60-88/442-233; gayana-eco-resort.com; doubles from US$650) is a hideaway perched on the edge of a coral reef off the coast of Borneo. Well-appointed lodgings, ranging from beachside doubles to three-bedroom hillside aeries with decks and private plunge pools, occupy 47 timber villas. There’s plenty to do in the area, but most guests are content to idle away the day on the pristine, white-sand beach. PHILIPPINES EAT The unabashedly swanky Establishment (Unit A, Fort Entertainment Complex, 26th St. corner of 5th Ave., Bonifacio; 632/844-6364; dinner for two P2,500) lures discerning Manileños to its Fort Bonifacio location with four upscale venues under a single roof: swish Spanish dining room the Hall, stylish Spanish-themed bar the Tulipan, elegant French restaurant the Crystal Room and chic Chinese eatery the Oriental. Fusion isn’t always a dirty word: Hong Kong chef Henry Cheung whips up creative and delicious Canto-inflected dishes in serene, modern interiors with sea-foam-green walls and blond-wood furniture at Henry’s Place (Unit ES-3, Burgos Circle, Forbes Town Center, Rizal Dr., corner of West Crescent Park, The Fort, Taguig; 63/926-9098515; dinner for two P1,200). SHOP Funky furniture pieces and bold artworks fi ll Heima (ground floor, Shop 33, Cubao Expo, Araneta Center, Quezon City; 63/917-561-4346; heimastore.com), a bohemian home-andlifestyle boutique nestled in Manila’s artsy Cubao X compound. Cool concept store Trilogy (110 Alvion Center, Rada St., Legaspi Village, Makati; 63-2/328-1071; trilogyboutique.multiply.com) combines fashion and food in a bright, welcoming space, purveying designer city-wear by niche labels like Dim Mak, Matiko and Supra alongside tasty Western fusion dishes in its Wi-Fi–enabled café. SEE The expansive, high-ceilinged convertedwarehouse space of Manila\ Contemporary (Whitespace 2314, Chino Roces Ave., Pasong Tamo Extension, Makati, Philippines; 63-2/844-7328; manilacontemporary.com) is a 300-square-meter white cube showcasing world-class exhibitions of paintings, sculpture, installations and video works by emerging and established artists from the Philippines, Southeast Asia and beyond. STAY On the northern shore of Boracay, the ultra-luxurious Shangri-La (Barangay Yapak, Boracay Island, Malay, Aklan; 63-36/288-4988; shangri-la.com; doubles from P19,000) boasts spacious rooms overlooking the resort’s own »

Hotel Heavens From top: Alfresco seating at Kayaputi, in the St. Regis Bali; The Warung, at the Alila Villas Uluwatu in Bali; a private terrace at the Shangri-La Boracay.

T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A

C O M | D E C E M B E R

2009

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| t+l picks

City Lights From top: Amber Room in Saigon; a deluxe room at the InterContinental Saigon Asiana; Blackmarket, a cutting-edge boutique in Singapore.

VIETNAM EAT Hanoi’s poshest and prettiest restaurant of the moment is Soft Water (42 Road 9, West Lake; 84-4/37173212; softwatergroup.com; dinner for two US$60), a refined, verdant spot hidden along the banks of the Red River. Malaysian chef Soh Chia Hwa, whose résumé includes stints at Langkawi’s Datai and Hoi An’s Nam Hai hotels, blends Latin American, Japanese and Asian flavors, with dishes like beef tenderloin topped with chocolate and olive salsa and seared lobster with plum and soya jelly. At Ho Chi Minh City’s Gia Dining Room (5A Nguyen Sieu St.; 844/3827-9399; giadiningroom.com; dinner for two VND800,000), the fourth outpost of this glitzy eatery, plates like lobster dumplings, grilled quail salad and duck with green peppercorns straddle East and West, while the romantic setting evokes old Saigon. DRINK Hanoi’s young intellectuals and creatives gather at Tadioto (113 Trieu Viet Vuong; 84-4/2218-7200; tadioto.com; drinks for two VND100,000), where owner–journalist–artist Nguyen Qui Duc regularly organizes cutting-edge exhibitions, readings and live performances. At the überhip Amber Room (59 Dong Du St.; 84-8/6291-3686; drinks for two VND180,000), an atmospheric bôite styled in dark hues, Saigon’s well-heeled expats sip espresso martinis and flutes of bubbly (the bar boasts one of the city’s largest champagne lists). STAY On the heels of last year’s successful opening in Hanoi, the InterContinental group has come to the south with the stylish InterContinental Saigon Asiana (Hai Ba Trung St. and Le Duan Blvd.; 84-8/3520-9999; ichotelsgroup. com; doubles from US$150). The 305 generously sized rooms boast plush bedding, marble baths and iPod docks. Further south on the island of Phu Quoc, the red-roofed, beachfront villas at Chen La Resort & Spa (Ong Lang Beach; 84-773/995-895; chenla-resort.com; doubles from US$164) were modeled on Hoi An’s traditional homes. The secluded resort, built to high environmental standards, also features a sophisticated yet casual Mediterranean restaurant, thanks to the influence of the Italian management. SINGAPORE EAT Not technically new but completely transformed by mega-talented Taiwanese chef André Chiang, Jaan par André (70th floor, Swissôtel The Stamford; 65/6837-3322; seasonal set lunch menu S$88 per person) surprises diners with sophisticated interpretations of French nouvelle cuisine— think slow-roasted Bresse chicken paired with foie gras and scallop or a tarte tatin with caviar—beautifully presented on bespoke tableware. Chiang knows his way

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F R O M T O P : C O U R T E SY O F A M B E R R O O M ; C O U R T E SY O F I N T E R C O N T I N E N TA L H O T E L S G R O U P ; C O U R T E SY O F B L A C K M A R K E T

private white-sand beach and a sprawling spa that offers Chinese and Himalayan treatments.

F R O M T O P : C O U R T E SY O F S W I S S Ô T E L T H E S TA M F O R D ; C O U R T E SY O F T H E C H O C O L AT E R E S E A R C H FA C T O R Y; DA R R E N S O H ; CO U RT ESY O F Q U I N CY; CO U RT ESY O F O RG O

around vegetables—a sign of true culinary genius. Got a chocolate craving? Head straight to The Chocolate Research Factory (#01-30, Millenia Walk, 9 Raffles Blvd.; 65/6338-5191; and #02-10 Wheelock Place, 501 Orchard Rd.; 65/6235-5905; chocolateresearchfacility.com)—100 varieties, ranging in flavor from champagne to Sichuan peppercorn to single-origin dark chocolate from Ecuador with 76 percent cacao content, housed in a sleek laboratory-like space. DRINK Mismatched furniture, a casual vibe and tasty Prohibition-style cocktails make Speakeasy (54 Blair Rd.; 65/6410-9026; drinks for two S$30) the neighborhood bar we’ve always dreamed of. For prime city views and people-watching, head to the urbane Orgo (Roof Terrace, The Esplanade, 1 Esplanade Dr.; 65/9733-6911; orgo.sg; drinks for two S$36), which also has the city’s most inventive martinis—apple and shiso or mango and marjoram?—courtesy of veteran Japanese mixologist Tomoyuki Kitazoe. Snag one of the air-conditioned private glass cubes in the garden. SHOP Shopping in Singapore seems to be recessionproof, with new stores aplenty feeding the city’s retail addiction. Indie labels from Japan, Indonesia, Singapore and Thailand are on display Blackmarket (19 Jln. Pisang; 65/62968512; theblackmarket.sg), an edgy fashion/art/ lifestyle boutique located near hipster-central Haji Lane. Singapore’s own design darling Jo Soh of Hansel opened a standalone boutique in October (#01-02 Stamford House, 39 Stamford Road; 65/6337-0992; ilovehansel.com), where you can pick up her quirky-cool looks. And while we still get lost in the massive new Ion Mall on Orchard Road, we defi nitely know the way to ThreeSixty (#04-21 ION Orchard; 65/65098434), a gourmet wonderland that carries brands like Fortnum & Mason, Waitrose, and Dean & Deluca. (Attention all chocoholics: there’s a Valrhona boutique inside.) STAY Sea views and stunning architecture, both old and new, elevate the Capella Singapore (1 The Knolls, Sentosa; 65/6377-8888; capellasingapore.com; doubles from S$750) to one of the city’s classiest stays. Norman Foster’s avantgarde new wing cleverly echoes the resort’s 19th-century centerpiece and the undulating, green landscape. Settle into one of the outdoor loungers at Bob’s Bar and watch the ships come into port. Minutes away from Orchard Road, the 108-room Quincy (22 Mount Elizabeth; 65/6738-5888; quincy.com.sg; doubles from S$228) lures guests with its Mod décor and all-inclusive deals (Wi-Fi, »

Singapore Style From above: André Chiang, the chef at Jaan par André; The Chocolate Research Factory; old meets new at the Capella Singapore; the pool at Quincy, a boutique hotel; the city skyline from Orgo.

T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A

C O M | D E C E M B E R

2009

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| t+l picks

Thailand’s Best From top: The sunset lounge at dusitD2 baraquda pattaya; a residence at Soneva Kiri, Ko Kood; a terrace at Karmakamet Aromatic Hotel, Ko Samui; Bangkok’s Bhuthorn; Bo.lan, a Bangkok eatery.

THAILAND EAT Bangkok’s most exciting newcomer, Bo.lan (42 Soi Pichai Ronnarong, Sukhumvit Soi 26; 662/260-2962; bolan.co.th; dinner for two Bt2,000) explodes our prejudice that the best Thai food comes from holes-in-the-wall. Set in a converted bungalow, this intimate eatery doesn’t tone down the flavors of its home-style cooking that reaches deep into the Thai culinary canon. Menus change regularly depending on what’s in season. Make sure to save room for the petit fours—traditional banana and coconut sweets that friends have called their Proustian madeleines. Billy Marinelli, the gregarious Long Islander behind the slim, two-story Oyster Bar (395 Soi 24, Narathiwas Rd; 66-2/2124809; dinner for two with wine Bt2,800), is Bangkok’s shellfish kingpin—for years, he supplied the city’s five-stars with bivalves. Drop in Tuesdays and Fridays when he gets fresh shipments of oysters (Blue Points, Kumamotos, Belons and more), and squeeze in the Dungeness crab and the heavenly, pork-infused New England clam chowder. As of press time, Marinelli was cooking up a second eatery on Sukhumvit, Soi 16, The Seafood Bar. STAY Boutique hotels continue to bloom in Bangkok, but the three-room Bhuthorn (96–98 Phraeng Bhuthorn Rd.; 662/622-2270; thebhuthorn.com; doubles from Bt2,800), housed in a pair of restored shophouses in Bangkok’s historic heart, gets the formula right: a memorable setting, classic décor and attentive service. Among this year’s crop of beachfront resorts, the splurge-worthy Soneva Kiri (110 Moo 4, Ko Kood; 66-39/619-800; sixsenses.com; suites from US$1,192) delivers perfect paradise: seclusion, pristine white sands and crystalline waters, and 29 deceptively simple suites and bungalows. Thankfully, outstanding affordable options have debuted over the past year. On Ko Samui, the 15 gracious rooms at the nostalgic Karmakamet Aromatic Hotel

(Bangrak Beach; 66-77/962-198; karmakamethotel.com; doubles from Bt4,503)—created by the local luxury scent maker—are kitted out with rattan furniture and lush silks, plus deep bathtubs and posh toiletries. The funky dusitD2 baraquda pattaya (Second Rd.; 66-38/769-999; dusit.com; doubles from Bt4,680) upends our expectations of the resort town: 72 slickly modern rooms and a groovy, all-blue bar. ✚ 48

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F RO M TO P : CO U RT E SY O F D U S I T H OT E L S A N D R E S O RTS ; CO U RT E SY O F S I X S E N S E S R E S O RTS & S PA S ; C O U R T E SY O F K A R M A K A M E T A R O M AT I C H O T E L ; C O U R T E SY O F T H E B H U T H O R N ; C O U R T E SY O F B O . L A N

mini-bar, cocktails and meals). Rooms are petite (what do you expect at this price?), but facilities include a fully equipped gym, sauna and a 12thﬂoor outdoor pool.

Special Feature

REUNION KEEPSAKES

Share the warm and heartfelt memories

t was that time of year again when my best friends from university all came in from out of town to reminisce, party and catch up on what’s been going on since graduation. The one difference this year was that Lisa said she would bring along a SELPHY CP780, Canon’s compact photo printer. At first, we couldn’t figure out why she did. After all, most portable printers aren’t actually all that portable, and then there are always hassles with cables and connections. Of course, we had all brought our digital cameras with us, promising to send each other photos of our night out once we got home, then quickly forgetting to do so a week later (as always!). Then it all made sense. With Lisa’s great new compact printer with portable

battery, we could exchange photos immediately. Lisa’s SELPHY was perfect since it prints photos quickly and quietly — we printed pictures right in the restaurant and, with our shrieks of surprise at the immediate results, attracted curious onlookers, who were amazed that memory cards from all our cameras would work with the SELPHY CP780. But the absolute best thing about it was its Bluetooth connectivity. Using the optional Canon Bluetooth adapter unit BU30, it was possible to print photos from our Bluetooth-enabled phones directly and wirelessly, saving us loads of time! We all went home, after a night to remember (lucky the prints are splash-proof!), with the evidence to prove it, all thanks to SELPHY.

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| cool jobs

FRANCE

Bounty Hunter. Former circus performer CEDRIC CASANOVA left the big top to hunt down the world’s most reﬁned olive oils, which he now sells from his Paris boutique. By ALEXANDRA MARSHALL

EFORE HIS FULL-TIME JOB

involved scouting rare oils, Cedric Casanova was a slackwire walker and performer. That is, until a knee injury and the advancing age of 33 forced the half-Sicilian, half-French connoisseur to slow down. “All I really wanted to do was work as a ﬁsherman in Sicily,” he says. And so he did for one year, during which he schlepped so many tins of olive oil to friends back in Paris that someone suggested he start charging for them. “When I ﬁnally did,” he says, “I sold one hundred kilograms in four days.” The oil in question came from Sicily-based Marco Mule, a close friend of Casanova’s since the age of three,

Cedric Casanova at his Paris shop. Left: Sicilian capers, sun-dried tomatoes and olive oil.

who produces an oil so flavorful it’s best used only as a condiment. Dealing oils out of his Paris apartment like an illicit substance went fine for a while, and Casanova continued to make trips to Sicily to help his suppliers harvest and to source other local specialties such as ricotta salata. Last year, he opened a boutique on the scruffily bohemian Rue Ste. -Marthe, in Paris’s 10th Arrondissement. The store is stocked with niche Sicilian olive oils and novelties such as sun-dried-tomato tea, preserved tuna heart and bottarga (tuna

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roe). Word has spread, and he has since been bringing a taste of Sicily to diners all over the city, from the Hôtel Plaza Athénée to the Élysée Palace. Next, Casanova is turning his sights to North Africa, where he’s looking to ﬁnd the best oil in Algeria. “They have beautiful olive oils—more robust than those found in Italy—rarely seen outside of the region. ” La Tête dans les Olives, 2 Rue Ste.-Marthe, 10th Arr., Paris; 33-9/51-31-33-34. ✚

Photographed by MARIE HENNECHART

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| classics Taipei’s Soul Food Clockwise from top: A bowl of beef noodles with the works at at Laopai Niurou Lamian Da Wang, in Taipei; in front of Lan Jia Gua Bao, home of fine Taiwanese burgers; the iconic Taipei 101.

TAIWAN

A Taste of Taipei. Nothing fends off winter better than beef noodles. Here, where to ﬁnd the best bowl and other Taiwanese favorites. By ROBYN ECKHARDT

■ NIUROU TANG MIAN Niurou tang mian, or beef noodle soup, is so beloved by locals that city hall stages a festival every autumn in its honor. Originating from the mainland, it’s a hearty marriage of wheat noodles and tender hunks of beef (and, if you really want to be local, meltingly soft beef tendon) in a meaty broth scented with star anise, cinnamon and, in some versions, Sichuan peppercorn. Diners add extra oomph in the form of mashed garlic and ginger, la jiao (roasted dried chilies in oil), chili bean sauce, vinegar, and tangy preserved mustard leaves. The version served at 30-year-old Laopai Niurou Lamian Da Wang (No. 7, Lane 46, Chongqing South Rd., Sec. 1; 886-2/2381-5604; NT$80 per bowl), located near Taipei Main Station, is a duet of thick, ropey noodles hand-pulled every morning and a broth so complex and ﬂavorful you’d swear it’s been simmering for eons. Arrive hungry—the eatery also serves scrumptious shuijiao (boiled dumplings with minced pork and Chinese chives ) and a wonderfully rustic hot-and-sour soup. ■ GUA BAO Stuff slow-braised pork into a pita-like steamed bun with pickled mustard, cilantro leaves and peanuts pulverized with sugar and you’ve got gua bao, a snack often called a Taiwanese hamburger but actually more closely related to a southern American comfort food classic: the pulled pork sandwich. On weekends and evenings, the queue snaking from Lan Jia Gua »

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Photographed by DAVID HAGERMAN

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| classics

Living to Eat Clockwise from above: The queue in front of Lan Jia Gua Bao; Taipei’s nighttime streetside stalls are hugely popular; the luscious gua bao from Lan Jia Gua Bao; sesame biscuits ready to be stuffed for hujiao bing, black pepper and pork biscuits.

Bao (No. 3, Alley 8, Lane 316, Roosevelt Rd., Sec. 3; 886-2/2368-1165; NT$45 each), near Taipei University, can stretch half a block as staff work double-time ﬁlling pillowy buns pulled from mammoth bamboo steamers with pork so tender it falls apart in succulent shreds. Specify fatty or lean meat and get your gua bao to go, or devour it inside alongside a bowl of the equally popular corn and pork rib soup.

■ HUJIAO BING At a stall in the corner of a market in Taipei’s hip Fuxing district (Corner of Lane 31, Da’an Rd., Section 1; 3 P.M.–10 P.M. daily; 886/932-384-642; NT$30 each), a husband-and-wife team turn out fresh hujiao bing, savory black pepper and pork biscuits from the Chinese coastal province of Fuzhou. At least once an hour they prepare a fresh batch, rolling out dough on a worn wooden prep counter, layering on sliced and chopped pork and minced scallions, and stretching the edges of the dough rounds up and over to form plump palm-sized rounds. The biscuits bake vertically, stuck to the sides of a coal-ﬁred, tandoor-shaped clay oven, and emerge with a crispy-chewy crust dusted with sesame seeds, hiding »

One destination

a world of distinction

Bali’s most breath-taking sanctuary with 78 private villas and a 290-room hotel

on 77 hectares of cliff-top land over Jimbaran Bay. Escape to a world of rich cultural heritage, omnipresent in the architecture, decor, and most of all, the warm hospitality and daily rituals of your hosts.

Explore the 1.3 kilometer coastline with secluded white-sand beach, ocean-front pools, golf-putting course, and secret gardens.

Savor a diﬀerent dining experience every day, at 13 venues including the new Rock Bar perched on rocks directly over the ocean.

Rejuvenate in Thalasso healing and Balinese therapies at Thermes Marins Bali Spa, Aquatonic Pool and Spa on the Rocks.

Each day oﬀers new discovery. Don’t take our word for it; take theirs. ASIA’S LEADING LUXURY RESORT - 2009 World Travel Awards BEST HOTEL IN BALI - 2009 Destinasian Readers’ Choice awards #3 BEST SPA HOTELS & RESORTS IN ASIA - 2009 SmartTravelAsia awards ONLY HOTEL IN INDONESIA VOTED AMONGST ASIA’S TOP 15 AND THE WORLD‘S TOP 100 - 2009 Travel + Leisure Readers’ awards www.ayanaresort.com

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JAPAN

Geisha at the Kiwomizudera Temple in Kyoto.

Kyoto Calling. Japan’s ancient capital has one foot in the 14th century and the other ﬁrmly rooted in the 21st. Here, T+L maps out an easy guide to the city. By JAIME GROSS Kamokaido

Daitoku-ji

Gojo-dori

Shirakawa-dori

Higashi oji-do

o River

K am

Shijo-dori

Karasuma-dori

Nishioji-dori

NAKAGYO-KU

SHIMOGYO-KU

HIGASHIYAMA-KU

Shichijo-dori

er Riv

NISHIKYO-KU Kujo-dori

Tokyo Station Sea of Japan 1.6 km

Kyoto

JAPAN Tokyo

Pacific Ocean

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u ra Kats

Kadonoo-ji

Okochi-Sanso

Old Imperial Palace Marutamachi-dori

Senbon-dori

ori

UKYO-KU

Horikawa-dori

KITA-KU KAMIGYO-KU

a-d nak Kadono

MURASAKINO

TOKYO CATAPULTS itself into the future, Kyoto—renowned for its temples, shrines and vibrant geisha culture—has grown cautiously. Two years ago, the government banned rooftop and ﬂashing ads and put a cap on building height to preserve the centuries-old landscape. Now, a surprisingly modern city is emerging as stylish restaurants, shops and inns pop up in 19th-century machiya, or wooden merchants’ houses. Read on to learn more about the new Kyoto. » HILE THE MEGALOPOLIS OF

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1SCENE

2FOOD

3ROOMS 4SHOPS

For a glimpse of the city’s spiritual heritage, head north along the Kamo River to Daitoku-ji (Murasakino, Kita-ku; 81-75/491-0019), a 685-year-old Zen monastery with 24 temples, and to Okochi-Sanso (Saga, Ukyo-ku; 81-75/872-2233), the two-hectare residential gardens of the late samurai ﬁlm star Denjiro Okochi. Then fast-forward to the present at the new Iyemon Salon Kyoto (Karasuma-Sanjo Nishi-iru, Nakag yo-ku; 81-75/222-1500), on the lower ﬂoors of a kimono company, with a contemporary crafts shop, chic café, and steel-and-glass gallery exhibiting 450-year-old embroidered kimonos. At night, taste rare brews at Sake Bar Yoramu (Nijo-Higashinotoin Higashi-iru, Nakag yo-ku; 81-75/213-1512), a low-key bar run by an Israeli expat.

The restaurant at Tenryu-ji Temple (Saga, Ukyo-ku; 81-75/882-9725; lunch for two Y5,400) serves vegetarian meals such as sesame tofu and soup made of dried gourds and sea kelp. Sounds of slurping ﬁll Honke Owariya (KurumayachoNijo Sagaru, Nakagyo-ku; 81-75/ 231-3446; lunch for two Y3,400), which has been dishing up handmade soba, udon and tempura since 1465. If you’re not a guest at the 208-year-old Kinmata Ryokan (ShijoGokomachi Agaru, Nakagyo-ku; 81-75/221-1039; dinner for two Y25,200; overnight stays Y42,000 per person, including meals), reserve a table for a seafood kaiseki meal made with ingredients from the Nishiki market. Check out the Bassano del Grappa (BukkojiKarasuma Higashi-iru, Shimogyo-ku; 81-75/344-1277; dinner for two Y13,000), where the sashimi comes with a side of pesto.

Billed as Kyoto’s ﬁrst design hotel, Screen (640-1 Shimogoryomae-cho, Nakagyo-ku; 81-75/252-1113; the-screen.jp; doubles from Y30,000) opened in 2007 with 13 unique rooms: no. 201 has a sexy red, black and white scheme. Super Potato is one of the designers behind the

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On one of the city’s best shopping streets, Ippodo Tea Company (Teramachi-Nijo, Nakagyo-ku; 81-75/211-3421; ippodo-tea.co.jp) resembles an old-fashioned apothecary, with white-jacketed attendants measuring green tea onto scales. The gallery-like Kyoto Design House (Tominokoji-Sanjo Agaru, Hyatt Regency Kyoto (Sanjusangendo Mawari, Nakagyo-ku; 81-75/221-0200; Higashiyama-ku; 81-75/541-1234; kyoto-dh.com) sells lacquered hyatt.com; doubles from Y22,000), bamboo boxes and handwoven where 189 rooms have cedar silk capes by local designers. At tubs and silk headboards. Karacho (Cocon Karasuma, Karasuma-Shijo-Sagaru, Shimogyoku; GREAT Hotel Monterey (SanjyoVALUE Karasuma Minami; 81-75/ 81-75/353-5885; karacho.co.jp), 11th-generation craftsman 251-7111; hotelmonterey.co.jp; doubles from Y18,000) has spotless Kenkichi Senda creates woodblock-printed washi paper guest rooms near shop-ﬁlled Sanjo-dori. Opening this month for temple doors, as well as chic is Hoshinoya Kyoto (Arashiyama, handmade pendant lanterns. At Nishikyo-ku; 81-75/871-0001; Eitarouya (Sanjo-Karasuma kyoto.hoshinoya.com; doubles from Nishi-iru, Nakagyo-ku; 81-75/211Y59,000), a 25-room ryokan near 2255; eitarouya.com), tailors stitch the Oigawa river with rice-paper men’s overcoats from wool, screens and intricate woodwork. cotton, silk and hemp. ✚

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: © C A N B A L C I / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M ; C O U R T E SY O F K I N M ATA R YO K A N ; C O U R T E S Y O F E I TA R O U YA ; C O U R T E S Y O F H YAT T H O T E L S & R E S O R T S

Threads of History Clockwise from top left: Rock gardens are common at temples in Kyoto; a picture-perfect dish from a kaiseki meal at Kinmata Ryokan; Eitarouya, a men’s tailor shop in the city’s Nakagyo-ku ward; a guestroom at the Hyatt Regency Kyoto, designed by Super Potato.

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| trends An afternoon’s worth of browsing.

SINGAPORE

MORE INDIE BOOKSHOPS IN SINGAPORE 25 Degree Celsius Cookbooks galore. 25 Keong Saik Rd.; 65/6327-8389; 25degreec.com. Basheer Graphic Books A mine for art, architecture and design buffs. #04-19 Bras Basah Complex, 231 Bain St.; 65/6336-0810; basheergraphic.com. Casual Poet More a café, with Mandarin and English titles. 273B New Bridge Rd.; 65/6221-5022; casualpoet.com. Cat Socrates A retro-inspired shop with a selection of arty titles. #03-39B Bras Basah Complex, 231 Bain St.; 65/6333-0870; home. catsocrates.com.sg.

The Little Shop around the Corner. Independent bookstores are having their day in the Lion City. Here, the latest member of this tribe. By MELANIE LEE 64

IBLIOPHILES TAKE HEART.

Independent bookshops— those charmingly cozy spots where the clerks all have M.A.’s in literature and a cat snoozes by the window—are undergoing a renaissance in Singapore, with several opening in recent years. Much credit for this literary ﬂowering goes to intrepid book lovers Kenny Leck and Karen Wai, who started the pioneering BooksActually four years ago.

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This past summer, Leck and Wai expanded their mini-empire with a second, nonfiction-focused store, christened Polymath & Crust after their own, wide-ranging reading habits (“crust” alludes to their interest in geology). Don’t be fooled by the petite, austere space, which occupies the second and third floors of a shophouse shared with the fiction-centric BooksActually. The shelves are packed with more than 1,000 titles that cover a vast range of disciplines—philosophy, mathematics, biology, art and history— and include forgotten classics from boutique publishers such as Pushkin Press and Persephone Books. The pair also stocks hand-bound notebooks, vintage stationery, and a selection of complementary teas— perfect if you’re looking to settle in and browse slowly. Unsurprisingly, the space has become a salon of sorts for the local arts community, with design exhibitions and book launches held in the attic gallery. There’s even a cat to complete the picture—resident feline Cake, who prowls the shelves. 86 Club St.; 65/6222-9195; booksactually.com. ✚

Photographed by DARREN SOH

insider

| hotspot

U.K.

One-stop shopping at Albion, Boundary’s gourmet food shop, in East London.

Boundary, East London. Sir Terence Conran’s latest venture is a one-stop Victorian shop for gourmands. By KATIE BOWMAN ESIGNER TERENCE CONRAN’S NEW SIX-STORY BOUNDARY COMPLEX IS MAKING WAVES IN THE GRITTY-GLAM neighborhood of Shoreditch. Within the converted Victorian printing house: Albion, a perfectly curated high-end food shop and laid-back streetside café; a 17-room hotel inspired by design movements from Shaker to Bauhaus; and a subterranean French restaurant. But the space that has crowds lining up around the block is the Boundary rooftop restaurant and bar, overlooking East London (open whenever the weather permits). The style here is low-key beachhouse: white canvas chairs printed with images of cheeky British seaside postcards, a wood-burning stove—on colder nights, staff provide guests with wool blankets—and potted olive trees dotting the patio. Don’t miss the steak and chips, accompanied by the spicy house sangria. 2–4 Boundary St.; 44-20/7729-1051; theboundary.co.uk; rooftop dinner for two £48. ✚

DEC E M B E R

2 0 0 9| T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M

JAMES MERRELL

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TO SUBSCRIBE, see our special offer on page 82. For more information e-mail info@travelandleisuresea.com Contact us at Circulation Department, Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia, Media Transasia (Thailand) Ltd., 14th Floor, Ocean Tower II, 75/8 Soi Sukhumvit 19, Klong Toey Wattana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand

StylishTraveler

PERFECT

TRAVEL

PRESENTS

Here, T+L highlights a range of great holiday giftsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;for every type of traveler on your list. Photographed by DAVIES + STARR. Styled by MIMI LOMBARDO 1. FOR THE PERIPATETIC AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHER Plastic Diana F+ camera, which produces vignetted images. 71

stylish traveler

| shopping

7. FOR THE TIME TRAVELER Water-resistant watches with quartz faces and polyurethane straps, Nixon.

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I D E A a retreat with d, TRIP stful yog oga Barn (Ubu re a n Y ; Go o at The irit.com it ir p S 92; balisp Bali 1/970-9 m US$325), 6 -3 2 6 ; fro Bali retreats dation, four-day ludes accommo ansfers tr c in rt o h p ic air wh und-trip meals, ro equipment. a and yog

5. FOR THE APRÈS-SKI BUNNY Rabbit fur vest, Adrienne Landau.

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TRIP IDE A For an intensiv e restorative experience, bo ok the the Ging er Rub (HK$1,950) — including a bo dy ru freshly grated ginger, wrap, so b with ak and a 100-minute m assage — and add Hair Dew treat ment (HK$270) on the Spa at the W at Bliss Ho West, Kowloon; ng Kong (1 Austin Rd. 852/3717-2222 ).

4. FOR THE GLOBE-TROTTER WITH TIRED FEET Cashmere slippers with matching pouch, Williams-Sonoma Home. 72

6. FOR THE FREQUENT FLIER Ceramide Gold Ultra Restorative travel capsules for face and neck, Elizabeth Arden.

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9. FOR THE ITALIAN ART AFICIONADO 18-karat-gold ring with agate cameo from Torre del Greco in Naples, Amedeo.

R I N G : CO U RT ESY O F A M E D EO

8. FOR THE SPIRITUAL CHOCOHOLIC Dark chocolate infused with positive energy by Tibetan monks, Intentional Chocolate.

IDEA e T R I P r also hosts th (Jan. ve 10 0 2 d Vancou ia 010. l Olymp Cultura 21; vancouver2 d h an 22–Marc gallery tours n h ia com) wit nces by Canad a , perform ational artists ute. ib rn and inte a Neil Young tr g includin

16. FOR THE ALPINE SPORTS ENTHUSIAST Down parka, Nautica. 10. FOR THE GUY WHO’S COUNTING DOWN TO THE GAMES

TR Check out “C artier and A I P I D E A San Francisc merica” o Legion of Honor (Linco at the 34th Ave. an ln Park, d Cl em ent famsf.org/le gion; Dec. 19 St.; 1-415/750-3600; –April 18; US than 200 ite $20). More ms includin timepieces g jewelry from the Ca rtier Collect and on display to ion are illustrate early- and m the Cartier Brothers’ id-20th-cent ury travels.

Limited-edition stainless-steel Vancouver watch for the 2010 Winter Olympics, Omega.

13. FOR THE HIGH FLIER Rolling polycarbonate hardcase with Romero Britto print, Heys.

17. FOR THE WOMAN ABOUT TOWN Folding leather handbag/clutch, Cartier.

WAT C H : C O U R T E SY O F O M E G A

11. FOR THE SEA-LOVING SYBARITE Silk caftan, Farah Khan.

12. FOR THE ARMCHAIR TRAVELER Destination reading list, Longitude Books.

14. FOR THE SEEKER OF EXOTIC GEMS Silver bracelet with sapphires and topaz, from M.C.L. by Matthew Campbell Laurenza.

15. FOR THE MOBILE MUSIC LOVER Portable stereo speakers, iLuv.

18. FOR THE ROUGH-LUXE ROAD WARRIOR Leather boots with rubber soles, Tsubo.

T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A

C O M| D E C E M B E R

2009

stylish traveler

| shopping

25. FOR THE ORGANIZED TRAVELER Lizard-skin travel wallet, Adriana Castro. 19. FOR THE ARCTIC EXPLORER Wool hats, Otto.

20. FOR THE PERSON TRAVELING AROUND THE CLOCK

Stainless-steel travel alarm, Verdura. 23. FOR THE GLOBAL GLITTERATI Earrings with amethyst and quartz, Asha by ADM.

TRIP I D Drop into E A Claridge’s (B London; 4 4-20/7629- rook St., Mayfair, 8860; clar co.uk; doub idges. le Champagn s from £289) for a Festive e Afternoon Jan. 3; tea Tea (Nov. fo 21 apple scon r two from £90) with – es baked in the hote and mince pies l’s Art Dec o Southend Boys’ Cho foyer; the ir carols on weekends. sings Christmas

26. FOR THE SWEET-TOOTHED ANGLOPHILE Limited-edition Christmas pudding, Claridge’s (one lucky bowl comes with a stay in a penthouse suite).

A TRIP IDE International n sa Pu e th 2010; Don’t miss (October 7–15, Film Festival ia’s leading ﬁlm As , g) or st. fe psﬁlm ings, emiere screen festival, with pr s and debuts by ion ss cu dis l pane in the Asian directors city. up-and-coming port South Korean

27. FOR THE GLAMPER Tartan wool duffel bag, Polo Ralph Lauren.

22. FOR THE BATHING BEAUTY Travel-size shower gels, Fruits & Passion.

24. FOR THE GIRL ON THE GO Packable nylon-canvas windbreaker, Yves Saint Laurent Edition 24 2009.

DEC E M B E R 2 0 0 9| T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M

28. FOR THE JOURNAL-IST Box set of 14 notebooks, Hermès.

C H R I ST M A S P U D D I N G : CO U RT E SY O F C L A R I D G E ’S ; D U F F E L : CO U RT E SY O F P O LO R A L P H L AU R E N

21. FOR THE FOREIGN-FILM BUFF DVD’s of movies screened at international ﬁlm festivals, Amazon.

stylish traveler

| shopping

32. FOR THE FASHION PLATE 14-karat-gold necklace with N.Y. initials, Ginette NY.

35. FOR THE SUN GODDESS Sunglasses, Tod’s.

29. FOR THE FOODIE FRANCOPHILE Best-selling 1932 French cookbook by Ginette Mathiot, now in English, Phaidon.

30. FOR THE MUSEUMGOER Guggenheim lamp, Megara. 36. FOR THE JET-SETTER WITH A CERTAIN JE NE SAIS QUOI

Wool scarf, Louis Vuitton.

33. FOR THE BRIGHT YOUNG THING Leather luggage tags, Tumi.

TRIP ID Adopt a tree E on Nudo’s Ita A Apennines lian estate in yo ur giftee’s name (£65). They’ll get an invitation to vi sit and reap bounty — fo its ur 500-mill iliter three 250-m illiliter tins of and oil — throug olive hout the ne w year.

31. FOR THE COUNTRY WALKER Shearling-lined tartan shoes with rubber soles, Sperry Top-Side.

34. FOR 34 O THOSE OS WHO O DREAM O OF ROLLING HILLS AND OLIVE GROVES Extra virgin olive oil, Nudo.

DEC E M B E R 2 0 0 9| T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M

37. FOR THE BOND GIRL (OR GUY) Polycarbonate trolley, Rimowa.

L A M P : CO U RT ESY O F M EGA RA

TRIP ID E Head to the A Gu Wright–desig ggenheim’s Frank Lloy d ne New York, N. d rotunda (1071 Fifth Av Y.; e. org) on Dec. 1-212/423-3500; guggen , 20 or 21 to hear the Ge heim. Steel–condu or cted Vox Vo ge cal Ashton Bras s Ensembles and Graham play holiday (including a ne m American co w work by wunderkind usic m admission (U poser Nico Muhly), free S$18). with

stylish traveler

| must-haves

IN THE SWIM Headed to the beaches of Bali? The sands of St. Kitts? These playful yet practical pieces will have you ready for sun and surf. Photographed by

Island Style Clockwise from top: Straw tote, by Bo’em (bo-em.com); straw fedora, Escada (escada. com); merino wool gauze shawl, Virginia Johnson (virginiajohnson.com); sunglasses, Dior (dior. com); swimsuit, Eres (eresparis.com); Aveda Sun Care Protective Hair Veil spray, Aveda (aveda. com); leather-and–patent sandals, Moschino Cheap and Chic (moschino.com); cotton towel, Christy (christy-towels. com); SPF 45 body sunscreen, MerSoleil (mersoleil.com).

DEC E M B E R 2 0 0 9| T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M

P R O P S T Y L I S T : J A S O N G L E D H I L L . A S S O C I AT E FA S H I O N E D I T O R : C AT H E R I N E C R AT E

CHARLES MASTERS. Styled by MIMI LOMBARDO

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T+L Journal SHOPPING 94 PORTFOLIO 100

The pristine waters of the Indian Ocean in Uluwatu, Bali. Inset: The cliff-side cabana at the Alila Villas Uluwatu resort.

INDONESIA

Saving

Bali

Could a new resort built to strict environmental standards represent the tipping point for Bali? JENNIFER CHEN investigates. Photographed by LAURYN ISHAK

T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A

C O M | D E C E M B E R

2009

t+l journal

| dispatch

By now, the LITANY of environmental damage to Southeast Asia’s storied island paradises is dishearteningly familiar I’M SENDING MY FRIENDS A second text message warning that I’ll be late. Traffic has slowed to a crawl, and the cabbie is drumming his fingers against the steering wheel. In Bangkok, where I live, schedules are often held hostage by traffic. But I’m not there. Nor am I in Beijing, Manila or any other congestion-plagued Asian city. I’m in Bali, caught amid the trucks, tour buses, vans, SUV’s and motorcycles wending their way along the two-lane Jalan Uluwatu. By now, the litany of environmental damage to Southeast Asia’s storied island paradises is dishearteningly familiar. To varying degrees, Phuket, Ko Samui and Ko Chang—with Phu Quoc, Boracay and a half a dozen other Thai islands not too far behind—all struggle with sewage, garbage, water shortages, eyesore developments and beach erosion. Whatever problems these resorts experience, Bali—one of the region’s most enduringly popular destinations—is witnessing in spades. A recent report by an environmental consultant pegged Bali’s garbage output at 5,000 tons a day, 20 percent of which comes from hotels. Municipal governments don’t collect garbage, so roadside mounds of litter and the smell of burning trash have become ubiquitous. In southern Bali, the heart of the tourist industry, villa

ATURDAY NIGHT, AND

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developments have replaced the island’s famed rice fields, threatening ecosystems and livelihoods. Add traffic woes, threatened mangrove forests and a growing population that’s straining resources, and it’s clear that the island is headed towards an environmental reckoning. But I’ve come not to bury the island, but to praise efforts to save it. Specifically, I’m here to inspect the Alila Villas Uluwatu, a new property on the island’s southern Bukit peninsula that—in a first for Asia—was designed and built according to the standards of Green Globe, a tough Australian environmental auditing scheme. In Asia, Green Globe has certified 44 resorts and hotels. That means they’ve taken measurable steps to save water and electricity, reduce and recycle waste, promote environmental awareness, and help local communities—so guests know a hotel is truly serious about being green. But those properties sought certification after they were built. Alila went a step further. To follow Green Globe starting from the design and construction phase is to take on a whole other set of

Paradise, for Now ! ! " ! !% ! % $ %& " # " & ! ! ! "$ !"& ! !& ! " !

standards: everything from what materials are used to how much fossil fuel is consumed is carefully monitored. Amanda Pummer, the former general manager of Alilaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ubud properties who now works with environmental consultancy the GreenAsia Group, calls it, â&#x20AC;&#x153;a gutsy move.â&#x20AC;? The fact that Alila chose Bali as the location for the ďŹ rst property under its new eco-luxe brand, Alila Villasâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the second being the climatically challenged Maldivesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;was happenstance, insists Mark Edelson, the CEO of Alila. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re two of our favorite places, and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fortunate that it turned out that way. But I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t say we did it by design,â&#x20AC;? he admits. However, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tempting to think there might be something more to it. In recent years, Bali has seen a growth spurt in environmental awareness and activism. Several nonproďŹ ts have started tackling the islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s daunting waste problem, while governor Made Pastika has stressed that the environment is high on his governmentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s agenda. Meanwhile, an organic movement has ďŹ&#x201A;ourished in recent

years: restaurants hawk locally grown, seasonal produce and a couple of organic farmersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; markets have sprung up. Even before the Alila Villas Uluwatu opened this past July, several high-proďŹ le hotels, such as the 360-room Conrad Bali near Nusa Dua, earned Green Globe certiďŹ cation. All this makes me wonder: is there a concerted effort in Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;arguably the harbinger of mass tourism to Southeast Asiaâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;to start reversing decades of degradation? If so, there might be hope for the rest of us. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Bali is not the same place that it was ďŹ ve years ago, ten years agoâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;not the same place it was three years ago. And in [the environmental] sense, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s deďŹ nitely moving in the right direction,â&#x20AC;? says Michael Burchett, the genial, straight-talking general manager at the Conrad and vice-president of the Bali Hotels Association. The Alila Villas Uluwatu represents a step in that direction. Like other properties that mix green design with luxury, the 83-villa resort doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t wear its eco credentials on its sleeveâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;no rammed earth huts or mounds of compost here. Nor does it, by design, have solar-voltaic cells or other high-tech, energy-saving gadgetry. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We came from the point of view that Bali is part of a developing country, and even if you did put in something fancy, it would probably break down or not be properly maintained,â&#x20AC;? says Richard Hassell of WOHA, the Singapore-based architecture ďŹ rm that designed the resort. â&#x20AC;&#x153;If you make things difďŹ cult, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s too complicated and expensive, and probably wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t survive.â&#x20AC;? Hassell and his partner Soo K. Chan decided the most important step they could take was to source local Âť T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A

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t+l journal

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Green Shoots Clockwise from left: The Alila’s reception area; the resort sources batik made with natural dyes; one of its villas.

materials. Around 60 percent of the materials used to build the resort are either recycled or sustainable, and their origins read like a roll-call of Indonesia’s islands: bamboo from Bali; batu candi, or lava stone, from Yogyakarta; wood from throughout Java. Communal tables in The Warung, the Indonesian eatery, are fashioned out of wood taken from old houses, while the resort’s salas are constituted out of ironwood salvaged from telephone poles and railway cars. Most stunning of all, hundreds of copper caps, or batik stamps, line the interiors of Cire, the ﬁne dining restaurant. Because of high copper prices, batik workshops on Java have been selling caps, which are then melted down, Sean Brennan, the Alila’s general manager, tells me—a bit of cultural heritage quite literally being scrapped. As you’d expect, the resort’s design also incorporates energy- and water-saving measures. Inside the villas, guests can slide open the windows that line two opposing walls, allowing the ocean breezes to cool the interiors naturally. In addition, the black volcanic rock roofs suck up hot air while providing nutrients for plants. It might sound like an experiment concocted by a couple of clever graduate students, but the design actually works. Even in the noonday 88

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heat, I’m content without the air-conditioning. Biodiesel generators provide power and there’s talk of installing a wind turbine. Elsewhere on the property, an intricate system of soakways direct water to more than a dozen 125,000-liter tanks. That water is put through a reverse osmosis process and then pumped to the villas; in fact, most of the water used at the resort is recycled. “Our goal at the end of this year is having 80 percent water retention,” Brennan says. There’s another crucial way in which the resort conserves water. As you drive down the long, winding road that leads to the Alila, you’ll be struck by how bare and exposed the resort seems; the way the streamlined villas cling to the rocky hillside bring to mind the Mediterranean coast. The Bukit peninsula, after all, is Bali’s driest region—a fact the designers honored by planting native, scrubby vegetation rather than replicating a lush, Ubud-style garden that would guzzle water. Garbage—Bali’s bugbear—is handled by Jimbaran Lestari, a private, pioneering company that sorts through trash, recycles and composts what it can, and properly disposes of the rest. In fact, the Alila also pays Jimbaran Lestari to collect and sort the trash for nearby »

t+l journal

| dispatch

I hear this on the terrace of Klapa, a glass-pyramid-shaped club with alarmingly green décor that looks out over Dreamland, a beach once prized by surfers for its breaks but now filled with Russian and mainland Chinese tourists. Klapa, where you order drinks called “Crazy Crush” and “Fresh Bitch,” is part of Pecatu Indah, a 400-hectare development owned by one Tommy Suharto, the Local Heroes Clockwise from left: John youngest son of the former Hardy, the founder of the Green School; I Ketut Siandana, an architect and president. It’s being marketed as hotelier; Hardy’s living room. the New Kuta—just so you know exactly where its ambitions lie. Along with hotels and villas, Pecatu Indah will be home to an 18-hole golf course, a hospital, an international school, a shopping mall and a convention center; soon to open is the improbably named, 900-room Rich Prada Hotel. residents—a move Brennan claims has This is another vision of Bali, helped bring down cases of dengue. and frankly, it’s terrifying. Next One hotel, of course, can’t save Bali. door to Klapa are the concrete Collectively, the 11 Green-Globe foundations of another hotel— certified hotels on Bali are a mere drop halted not because of building when you consider the more than 1,000 regulations, but because of the properties on the island. That’s not global financial crisis. No doubt, counting the numerous villa it will proceed when the funds are developments still being erected despite found. By the beach is a denuded vows to stop issuing permits. A large hill where a handful of local boys part of the problem with controlling study the tourists below—perhaps wondering how to make a development in Bali has been the devolution of power, a buck off these sunburned visitors. process instituted after former president Suharto was ousted. Bali will never be the way it was, but it doesn’t have to be During an interview with two officials at the provincial tourism office, I’m told that a 1999 moratorium was re-issued this. And there’s still time to save it from the fate of Benidorm. Over and over again, locals and expats alike tell in 2003. When I question the effectiveness of that me that respect for nature is intrinsic to Balinese culture, moratorium, since clearly hotels have been built since 2003, which is surprisingly sturdy despite the incursions of tourism. blame is handed off to the next level of government: “The “Originally, we respect the tree, we respect the stone—we province is the principal authority, but it’s the regency that don’t cut down the tree, we don’t move the stone, and we’re decides whether to build.” The end result is, according to careful in using nature,” says I Ketut Siandana, an architect some long-time residents, graft and haphazard enforcement. and one of the brothers who run the Waka hotels. And at least one prominent developer has pledged not to build on ALI IS ALSO A ONE-INDUSTRY ISLAND: OFFICIALS rice fields. “What we’re doing as foreigners, as a group, is reckon 80 percent of the population depends on that we’re in very grave danger of destroying the goose that tourism. With the highest standard of living in lays the golden egg,” rails Nils Wetterlind, the managing Indonesia, many Balinese—and the migrants pouring in director of Tropical Homes, whose next project involves from other parts of the archipelago—understandably want to cash in on tourism. “It’s hard,” a waiter tells me. “Money reviving antique joglas, Javanese-style houses, because “nobody needs 600 square meters and eight bedrooms.” » on one side, culture on the other side.”

B 90

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Taking the Lead Clockwise from left: One of the staff at the Alila; you can’t get lost at the resort; the restaurants use locally sourced spices; old plates get a new life; the resort’s villas open up, allowing the ocean breezes to cool them naturally.

Bali also stirs up passion and loyalty. People want to defend it—its culture, its natural beauty, its legendary magic— fiercely. Yes, we need to protect the environment for future generations—that’s a truth that can’t be repeated enough times. But if you’re sitting in Bangkok or Singapore or Hong Kong, it’s hard to look out and think, I want to preserve that intersection or apartment block. In Bali, you know exactly what you want your children to see—those shimmering rice fields, those moss-covered temples flanked by jungle, that procession of Balinese wading into the sea with their offerings to the gods. On my last afternoon in Bali, I travel up to Ubud to have lunch with John Hardy, the jeweler who’s become a green visionary and Cassandra of sorts. Unlike too many others, Hardy, who founded the Green School, which teaches sustainability to students from preschool age to high school, actually lives according to his beliefs. His residential complex is made of bamboo—a sustainable building material because it grows quickly—and is open-aired, eliminating the need for air-conditioning. As we talk, he gazes out onto the rice paddies that surround his home, as if drawing strength from the scene’s beauty. Let’s get one place right, he tells me. “And I vote for Bali.” 92

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GUIDE TO GREEN BALI WHERE TO STAY For a complete list of Green Globe–certiﬁed hotels in Indonesia, log onto greenglobe.org. Alila Villas Uluwatu Jln. Belimbing Sari, Banjar Tambiyak, Desa Pecatu; 62-361/848-2166; alilahotels.com; villas from US$617. Bambu Indah Four vintage Indonesian homes on an eco-resort by John Hardy in Ubud. Banjar Baung, Desa Sayan; 62-361/975-124; bambuindah.com; bungalows from US$200. Conrad Bali No. 168 Jln. Pratama, Tanjung Benoa, 62-36/177-8788; conradhotels1.hilton.com; doubles from US$189.

t+l journal

| shopping

Dragnet chair by Kenneth Cobonpue at Merci, a three-story boutique in the Marais.

FRANCE

Paris,

3 ways

From antiques-ﬁlled ﬂea markets to cult designer boutiques and hidden bargain stops, LYNN YAEGER navigates Paris with a trio of in-theknow locals. Photographed by MARIE HENNECHART

HEN I AM IN THE CITY OF LIGHT, I RARELY SET FOOT in a gallery unless it has a gift shop. My favorite place to dine is the department-store café, with the frites stand at the ﬂea market a close second. But recently it dawned on me that even a world-class compulsive shopper like myself has a tendency to visit the same markets, the same charming boutiques, the same venerable department stores. So on my latest trip I decided to consult three shopping gurus—two natives and one honorary citizen—about their favorite local haunts. Claudia Strasser, who runs a New York–based interiors business called the Paris Apartment and has been showing clients around Parisian markets for

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Ne Plus Ultra Clockwise from left: Monogrammed Louis Vuitton luggage and tweed Chanel boots at Les Trois Marches de Catherine B; outside the boutique; 40’s- and 50’s-era tea sets at Merci; patterned scarves for sale at Thanx God I’m a V.I.P.; a Kelly bag and Hermès accessories in Les Trois Marches’s vitrine; Rue de Lancry, home to Thanx God I’m a V.I.P.

decades, is charged with taking me fleaing; Juliette GitelLassablière, a fashion forecaster and a tour guide for Context Travel, swears she can introduce me to surprising discount venues in lofty St.-Germain-des-Prés; and Rosemary Rodriguez, the creative director of Thierry Mugler, has been persuaded to share her secret cutting-edge addresses. When Claudia Strasser sweeps into the café across from the Vanves Métro stop on Sunday morning she has quite an entourage with her—three members of the B. family, whose 15-room mansion in Seattle she is helping to furnish, along with Toma Haines, an Oklahoma native who calls herself the Antiques Diva. Before we hit even the first booth, Strasser and the Diva are unloading trade secrets: Did I know that the traveling fairs that set up in different neighborhoods on summer weekends are listed at the VideGreniers website, and that there are three keywords to look for: antiquités (for items at least 100 years old), brocante (for classic flea market merchandise), and vide-greniers (what in other cultures is commonly referred to as junk)? Was I aware that the best time to go to markets is the last weekend in July, before the whole of France goes on vacation, when dealers are desperate to empty their booths and want quick cash? Okay, sure, but what if what I want to buy with that cash is, say, a copper bathtub as big as a truck? How is it that

HITTING THE FLEAS

people like the B.’s are hauling those 15 rooms worth of furniture back to the Great Northwest? The answer, Strasser reveals, is a Camard account. At that Mr. B. takes out his Camard book and waves it gleefully in my face. Strasser explains how the account works: Camard, and a number of other shipping companies, maintain offices at the Porte de Clignancourt flea market and other spots around Paris. You register, and they give you a receipt pad, stickers and your own personal Camard number. When you see something humongous that you are dying to take home, you take out your Camard pad and the dealer slaps a sticker onto your purchase. The dealer fills out some paperwork, which is relayed to Camard, which then picks up your furniture— even if you purchased items at a number of different markets—and the next thing you know you’re unpacking an 18th-century chifforobe in Cedar Rapids. The best part: no money changes hands until Camard has everything ready to ship. This arcane and wacky system, Strasser assures me, is based on an ancient antiques dealers’ honor code and is surprisingly foolproof. Next, we’re off to the Vanves market. The B. family is searching for 18th-century chairs and chandeliers; the rest of us for anything that catches our fancy. Strasser surprises me by insisting that the best deals are to be found in the bins of prints for €3 and at the €5 tables, where she snatches up » T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A

C O M |D E C E M B E R

2009

t+l journal

| shopping

Market Values Clockwise from top left: Glazed Midcentury ceramics on display at the Vanves Marché aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves, in the 14th Arrondissement; vendor Dan Schanus at the market; an ivy-covered Fiat 500 outside Merci; silverware on display at Vanves market; a leather club chair at Merci; patent leather Chanel shoes.

a mirrored 1930’s dressing-table box. Even when things are marked higher than €4, bargaining is swift and easy—while I scoop up a pair of framed sepia prints of 1920’s flappers for €30, down from €50, Strasser is dickering over a trifold Art Moderne mirror, a total steal for €100, though because she lacks her own Camard book, it would have to be lugged on the plane, a prospect she reluctantly decides is too daunting. We sweep up our small purchases—among us we have bought vintage rosaries, old brass keys to string on cords as necklaces, and one dazzling bargain, an Alaïa dress for €100—and hop on the Métro to a brocante in the bohemian neighborhood of the Place des Abbesses, clear on the other side of town. I am torn up about not being able to buy a marble-topped night table here (it’s small but still needs a Camard sticker) until Strasser tells me why it’s lined with marble—once upon a time this pretty piece was used to store a chamber pot. The B.’s haven’t found any chandeliers yet, so we get back on the Métro and cross the river once again, to the Brocante Rue Chardon-Lagache, in the 16th Arrondissement. The refined merchandise here reflects the surroundings, and before you know it a Camard sticker has been slapped onto a hand-carved early-19th-century walnut chest that hard bargaining (the language barrier surmounted by two of Strasser’s flea market staples, a pencil and pad) has reduced to €2,200. In short order, the B.’s have also fallen for a 96

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daybed with satin cushions for a ridiculously low €190, and I am loaded down with an assortment of necklaces and ephemera, anxious to get back to my hotel, log on to Vide-Greniers, and see what other antiques markets and brocantes are coming up. BARGAIN HUNTING IN ST. GERMAIN

The next day I meet Juliette Gitel-Lassablière in the heart of the Sixth Arrondissement. Though Gitel-Lassablière, effortlessly chic in jeans and a trench, insists that there are all kinds of affordable gems hidden in this fancy neighborhood, I am frankly dubious. To prove her point, she suggests we dip into André, a chain shoe store I must have walked past a thousand times. Once inside I realize how it is that French women manage to look so stunning on minuscule salaries: a black suede high-heeled pump, elegant as a Louboutin though minus the red sole, is €85. At Monoprix, the looks are a total eye-opener. Like H&M, Monoprix collaborates with designers, which is why the €75 black dress with the satin straps is so alluring—it’s from Erotokritos, a cult label with its own Parisian boutiques. Of course, bargain is a relative term. Gitel-Lassablière points out that what a ﬁve-and-dime designer dress needs is a decent handbag and takes me to Les Trois Marches de Catherine B, where everything is secondhand, super-mint and bearing one of just a few labels: Chanel, Vuitton, »

t+l journal

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Hermès. Prices range from €96 for a scarf to €3,800 for a tangerine Kelly bag (but at least there’s no waiting list). The next few hours are a retail whirlwind: she introduces me to Cyrillus, Paris’s answer to J.Crew, where a sharp blouse with pleated sleeves is €47; to Losco, where the made-to-measure belts worthy of Jane Birkin are around €134. At Des Petits Hauts, a literally star-studded boutique (étoiles dot the pink floors), a quintessentially Parisian pink mohair cardigan (think Amélie) is €99. For more-classic tastes, the remarkably unpretentious Eric Bompard has cashmere pullovers at under €190. There are even less-rarefied souvenirs at the vast Pharmacie Suprapharm, with coveted powder-room brands—Klorane shampoo for €4; Elgydium toothpaste, €5 for two; Anthelios sunscreen for €8—sold at reduced prices. “Don’t even think about coming here on Saturdays—it’s a nightmare,” Gitel-Lassablière warns. Last up is the adorable Bonpoint outlet, where the iconic baby clothes—pin tucks! smocking! hand-knitted booties!—are all 30 percent off, though it doesn’t actually say this anywhere, which is why I finally admit to myself that it’s sometimes indispensable to have a native guide. CUTTING-EDGE PARIS, UNCOVERED The following afternoon I fetch Rosemary Rodriguez at her chic offices near the opera house. But our destination is far from these elegant digs. Like so many people in the fashion business, Rodriguez, who is wearing jeans, a Liberty of London button-down, a pair of spectacular antique diamond earrings and a Goyard tote, only gets really excited these days by something truly off the grid. Which is why we taxi straight to Thanx God I’m a V.I.P., in the neighborhood between the Place de la

République and the Canal St.-Martin. Rodriguez is ecstatic in this vintage clothing store, but in fact the whole quartier delights her. She points out Du Pain et des Idées (“Best baguette in Paris!” she crows); the leather wholesalers with their goods piled haphazardly in the window; the restored Alhambra dance hall; the couscous joints. We walk toward the canal to Artazart, a bookstore with Banksy monographs, among other ﬁnds. The peaceful curving waters, traversed by picturesque bridges, look nothing like the Paris I know. Then it’s over to Merci. I am enraptured by this threestory multi-brand boutique. With everything from limitededition designer clothes and books to ﬂowers and linens, it is giving Colette a run for its money in the hipness sweepstakes. Soon we’re deep in the heart of the Haut Marais. Rodriguez favors Pretty Box, yet another vintage store (a pre–Alber Elbaz Lanvin shirt is available for €89), and Hoses, a shoe shop with a sleepy dog in the corner and footwear with the coveted Avril Gau label. At Pring, the strappy heels are displayed in octagonal metal boxes; at Moon Young Hee, halfway between a shop and an atelier, a glorious silk chiffon skirt, puffy as a cloud, is €310. I love a gossamer garment, but in these hard times I am equally drawn to the more utilitarian, oddly chic designs at Yves Andrieux Vincent Jalbert, made from unlikely vintage fabrics—parachute nylon; linen and cotton meant to cover French camping cots. Happily zipping myself into an elaborate multi-seamed number, I’m forced to concede that without Rodriguez’s leading the way, I would never have parachuted into this place. Lynn Yaeger is contributing editor for T+L (U.S.).

GUIDE TO SHOPPING IN PARIS André 72 Rue de Rennes, Sixth Arr.; 33-1/42-84-99-46; andre.fr. Artazart 83 Quai de Valmy 10th Arr.; 33-1/40-40-24-00; artazart.com. Bonpoint Fin de Séries (outlet) 42 Rue de l’Université, Sixth Arr.; 33-1/40-20-10-55; bonpoint.fr. Brocante Rue Chardon-Lagache Near Église d’Auteuil, 16th Arr.; 33-1/45-89-32-07; spam.fr. Antique butterﬂy collection on display at Vanves market.

Camard 2 Rue de l’Industrie, Saint-Denis; 33-1/49-46-10-82; call for pricing information.

Les Trois Marches de Catherine B 1 Rue Guisarde, Sixth Arr.; 331/43-54-74-18; catherine-b.com.

Juliette Gitel-Lassablière, Context Travel contexttravel. com; full-day tours from ¤590 for up to six people.

Losco 5 Rue de Sèvres, Sixth Arr.; 33-1/42-22-77-47; losco.fr.

Cyrillus 16 Rue de Sèvres, Seventh Arr.; 33-1/42-22-16-26; cyrillus.fr. Des Petits Hauts 70 Rue Bonaparte, Sixth Arr.; 33-1/43-2940-46; despetitshauts.com. Du Pain et des Idées 34 Rue Yves Toudic, 10th Arr.; 33-1/42-4044-52; dupainetdesidees.com. Eric Bompard 46 Rue du Bac, Seventh Arr.; 33-1/42-84-04-36; eric-bompard.com. Hoses 41 Rue de Poitou, Third Arr.; 33-1/42-78-80-62; hoseslimited.com.

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Marché aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves Aves. Georges Lafenestre and Marc Sangnier, 14th Arr.; pucesdevanves.typepad. com (open weekends only, best before noon). Merci 111 Blvd. Beaumarchais, Third Arr.; 33-1/42-77-00-33; merci-merci.com. Monoprix 50 Rue de Rennes, Sixth Arr.; 33-1/45-48-18-08; monoprix.fr.

tours, which last about ﬁve hours, from ¤170. Paris Flea Market Tour 49-162/244-7208; antiquesdiva. com; half-day tours from ¤100. Pharmacie Suprapharm 26 Rue du Four, Sixth Arr.; 33-1/46-33-20-81. Pretty Box 46 Rue de Saintonge, Third Arr.; 33-1/48-04-81-71; prettybox.fr. Pring (Paris) 29 Rue Charlot, Third Arr.; 33-1/42-72-71-87; pringparis.com. Thanx God I’m a V.I.P. 12 Rue de Lancry, 10th Arr.; 33-1/42-03-0209; thanxgod.com.

Moon Young Hee 62 Rue Charlot, Third Arr.; 33-1/48-04-39-78.

Vide-Greniers A list of ﬂea markets in France, Belgium and Switzerland. vide-greniers.org.

Paris Apartment Custom Shopping Expeditions theparisapartment.com; half-day

Yves Andrieux Vincent Jalbert 55 Rue Charlot, Third Arr.; 331/42-71-19-54.

t+l journal | portfolio

An overview of Hanoiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rooftops in 1998. Today with economic gains, this cityscape is unrecognizable in parts.

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Time Traveler Having spent the better part of the past two decades focused on Vietnam, photographer PETER STEINHAUER now plans a return journey Y THE TIME YOU’RE WORKING ON YOUR THIRD BOOK ABOUT A

country, it’s a safe bet to say that the nation has worked its way into your psyche. In photographer Peter Steinhauer’s case, the opposite could also be true given the memorable images he has shot of Vietnam. Having photographed the country off and on since 1993, he’s now at work on a book of completely new images centered on the karst-dotted seascape of Ha Long Bay. His first two Vietnam collections already elicit a romantic edge to the country, partly because of their black-and-white nature, partly due to the pace of change in the country over the past 16 years. Street scenes in Hanoi, captured only a decade ago, no longer exist. “For me personally, I feel that the change in Vietnam has come with serious problems,” Steinhauer says. “Saigon and Hanoi are overgrown, far too crowded and polluted, and they’ve lost the charm that was there in the early 1990’s.” But he’s quick to point out the same is not true everywhere in Vietnam. “When I get far into the countryside, it is magic; it still has all of the remoteness and simplistic romance I experienced when I first arrived.” The double-edged sword we call progress isn’t something the American-born photographer wishes would stop, knowing full well that a better standard of living is something everyone, not just Vietnamese, want. Having worked in the country for such an extended time, inevitably there are things about Vietnam Steinhauer says he still loves. Among them are stopping by Hanoi’s Bat Dan Street for a bowl of pho, the scenic coastline between Danang and Hoi An, and the smell of Hanoi during Tet. Yet even the Vietnamese New Year celebrations have changed: “What I miss most,” Steinhauer says, “is firecrackers, which were banned in 1994.”

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Ban Gioc Waterfall in Cao Bang, a mountainous province in northern Vietnam near China. The countryside, Steinhauer says, is still alluring.

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An artistic take on what is merely a ďŹ sh trap in the Mekong Delta.

In Saigon, one of Cholonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main canals circa 1997.

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Mangroves in the Mekong Delta in the quiet province of Ben Tre.

Rice terraces in LĂ o Cai Province, in the northwest of the country.

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Amid a dramatic backdrop in northern Vietnam, a Hmong girl still manages to stand out.

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Chi Ly and Song Bien: a new generation looks to more prosperous times.

Le Thi Tao dominates a scene from another era.

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Nguyen Trong Tien amid the detritus of his scrap metal business.

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One of Steinhauerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s classic portraits, this of a man named Le Van Khoi, from 1993.

A streetside full of produce at Hanoiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Dong Xuan Market in 1998.

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SEARCHING

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OUT THE BEST OF

BANGKOK. PHOTOGRAPHED

CEDRIC ARNOLD

Dangerously GOOD times in Aspen Uncovering the best side of BANGKOK On the tartan TRAIL across Scotland A FIRST time at the top of remote Laos 113

A pair of lift operators at Buttermilk, one of four ski mountains near Aspen. Opposite: Aspen in the evening, as seen from Red Mountain.

Old West mining village, countercultural hotspot, super-glamorous ski destination: JULIAN RUBINSTEIN returns to Aspen, the resort town of his youth, and ďŹ nds an intoxicating, high-altitude mix of serious arts and music, audacious wealth, chic restaurants and dangerously good skiing. Photographed by MARTHA CAMARILLO

‘You know, just another day in paradise,’ I overheard

Aspen Today Clockwise, from top left: The Buttermilk ski station; Aspen Highlands’ Cloud Nine Alpine Bistro; restaurateurs Tommy Tolleson, Denise Walters and Gunnar Sachs at Elevation, one of their properties; a Sears-catalog house in town. Opposite, clockwise from top left: Ski-patrol chief Mac Smith in his Aspen Highlands ofﬁce; a horse-drawn sleigh on the way to Pine Creek Cookhouse; the 19th-century Elks Building, downtown; Tasmanian snapper and English-pea risotto at Cloud Nine.

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T’S AROUND LUNCHTIME IN ASPEN’S ROARING FORK VALLEY, AND I’d like nothing more than to tell you where I’m spending the afternoon. Only I can’t, because—as I myself have just accepted—I don’t know. I spent the past 40 minutes riding in the back of a Sno-Cat (ﬁne) and then hiking (skis strapped to my back, but also ﬁne) up the spine of a 3,777-meter peak. The so-called plan, known only to me, was to ski down the legendary Highland Bowl and then celebrate my accomplishment in, at minimum, a bar-serviced hot tub. This notion, however, appears to have been predicated on my live arrival at the summit, and as the panoramic Rocky Mountain–top view I had been enjoying disappears into a dark snow cloud, I soberly recall that my expedition began at the suggestion of an Aspen Times sex columnist whose dog, I knew damned well, was on the antidepressant Lexapro. The wind whooshes and I steady myself with my poles, trying to enjoy the bitter cold. The thin ridge I’m ascending falls

a man saying on his mobile phone as he passed me

off so precipitously on either side that a few minutes ago, I couldn’t bear to look down. Now I have no choice. All I can see is my own lumbering ski-boot tracks. One unfortunate tilt to the left or right and the phrase early retirement takes on a whole new meaning.

IFE-THREATENING WAS NOT WHAT I HAD IN MIND WHEN I planned my trip to Aspen. Then again, I was, upon my departure, between apartments and living out of a mini storage unit. Aspen, I thought, promised something safe and familiar, a respite. It was a place I’d been going to since I was a child in Denver in the 1970’s. There were lots of beautiful destinations within striking distance, but Aspen, in the eyes of many Denverites, was not only the most picturesque mountain town around, but also the most authentic. Unlike resorts such as Vail or Breckenridge that were erected for ski tourism, Aspen has real history in the 19th-century

American West. In 1893 it was the nation’s silver-mining capital, with six newspapers and a population of 12,000, when it went bust after the repeal of the Sherman Silver Purchase Act (which had brieﬂy switched the country’s monetary standard from gold to silver). Remnants of that era still exist in the solid limestone buildings that line the downtown streets, and in the splintered Smuggler’s Mine chutes outside town where I used to climb. As I became, by some measures, an adult, I continued to return to Aspen, and it was always the ﬁrst place that came to mind whenever I was asked to name my favorite spot in the world. Usually I went in the summers, camping and hiking for several days in the shadow of the purple-hued Maroon Bells mountains, and then returning to town to partake of the wonders of plumbing and the excellent classical music put on by the Aspen Music Festival. Aspen, for me, was always a place of contrasts: rugged and pristine, sophisticated and simple. » 117

But as the years went by, I began to notice that more people had their own opinions about Aspen, and invariably they were quite different from mine. While I continued to see Aspen as the eccentric, arts- and civic-minded town where Hunter S. Thompson once ran for sheriff, promising he wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t eat mescaline while on duty, the wealth and celebrity Aspen had attracted since the days I started goingâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;from Jack Nicholson to the Saudi Prince Bandarâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;created the impression that Aspen was like a Beverly Hills in the hills. The truth was, I thought, as my ďŹ&#x201A;ight began its vertiginous descent into the snow-covered valley, I hadnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t been back in several years, and I had no idea what I would ďŹ nd.

I STEPPED ONTO THE TARMAC, THE LATE afternoon sun was bathing the valley in a pinkand-gold light. Behind me, the windows of the multimillion-dollar houses on Red Mountain glinted like diamonds. Along the edges of the airďŹ eld, snow was piled 3 meters high. This was a disquieting reminder that it had already been a historic ski season. (So much snow had fallen that the town had to hire trucks to cart it away. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been here 30 years and Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve never seen a winter in which people actually said, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;No more,â&#x20AC;&#x2122; â&#x20AC;? Lon Winston, the director of the Thunder River Theatre Company, told me.) Disquieting, I say, because in my rush to get out here, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d neglected to pack anything to ski in. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Correct,â&#x20AC;? I said into my mobile phone, to a man Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d been referred to. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Pants, gloves, hat, goggles, jacket. I have nothing.â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x153;No worries,â&#x20AC;? the voice on the other end said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;See you in ďŹ fteen minutes.â&#x20AC;? I hopped the shuttle to my hotel on the outskirts of town, the Aspen Meadows Resort. A sprawling property designed in Bauhaus style, Aspen Meadows is best known as the home of the venerable Aspen Institute. Founded in 1950, the institute hasâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;especially in the almost four years since its president, Walter Isaacson, inaugurated the Ideas Festivalâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;vaulted to the top rung of world conferences, ďŹ lling the town each summer with more VIPâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and plainclothes security men than an underground bunker during the apocalypse. Bill Clinton, the Dalai Lama and Jordanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Queen Noor are among the luminaries who have passed through for public panels and talks under the same white tent that the Music Festival uses for its performances. When you throw in the Aspen Santa Fe Ballet, Jazz Aspen Snowmass and the Aspen Writersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Foundation, no place in the world as small as Aspen (population 6,000) can boast such high-powered cultural institutions. I was pondering this outside the new Doerr-Hauser event and art space when a van pulled up in front of me, and out jumped a sunburned, longmaned man wearing ski pants and a black turtleneck. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Sorry Âť HEN

entertaining notions 118

The whirlpool at Aspen Meadows Resort, with a view of Smuggler Mountain.

for the next several years 119

I’m late,” said Lorenzo Semple III, shaking my hand. “You caught me right as I was coming off the Bowl. Absolutely epic.” He slid open the van door, revealing two hanging racks of ski apparel. “Suit Yourself,” he said, stating the name of his business. Aha, I thought: I’ve arrived. As I assembled an outﬁt, Semple and I covered an array of topics I’d never found so riveting—for example, lawn mowing, which he does all summer. Semple was dramatic in a good way, a true enthusiast, and it didn’t surprise me to learn that he is the son of legendary screenwriter Lorenzo Semple Jr. (Three Days of the Condor), the man he calls “my hero,” and who ﬁrst brought him to Aspen more than 30 years ago. Semple still has some Hollywood in him—he ended a mobile-phone conversation with a phonetic kiss, “Mwah.” “I have two religions,” he said. “Mountain biking and skiing. This year my goal is to get 200 runs on the bowl. So far I’m at 152.”

I WENT, PEOPLE WERE TALKING ABOUT “the bowl”—which, in an outdoor fantasyland like Aspen, is nothing to shrug off. Ice climbing, snowmobiling, cross-country skiing to a mountain chalet—it’s all here. Plus, Aspen is one of the only resort towns in North America with four separate ski mountains, all of it world-class. But the Highland Bowl—a free 10-minute shuttle away from town—is one of the largest bowls in the world that is entirely “in bounds,” meaning that it is maintained by the ski patrol. It had only fully opened after I’d last skied Aspen, and I knew this time I would have to take it on. That night I rode into town. Strung over Main Street was a colorful banner advertising the week’s events: the Junior National ski races, a concert by pianist Stephen Hough, a reading by Pulitzer Prize winner Richard Russo and the public radio fund-raising drive. I hopped out at Galena Street VERYWHERE

When I reached the summit, the sky began to clear 120

field—today there are more than 150 comand walked toward the historic Elks Building Snow Days Opposite, clockwise from top left: mercial flights per week but no 737’s—using a in the center of town. Window after storeThe summit at Buttermilk a snowboarder; the Superpipe now-celebrated campaign poster designed by front window gleamed with shiny jewelry and at Buttermilk; Aspen’s the late artist Tom Benton, with the slogan designer clothing: Zegna, Gucci and Dior, all Mill Street at night. staking their sidewalk claims. Though it had THERE IS SOME SHIT WE WON’T EAT. been snowing on and off and the temperature was below Now there’s a new fight brewing over the expansion of the zero, the dry air was crisp and invigorating, and the scenery airport runway. “Hunter would have been vicious about this,” in all directions—the mountains, the valley, the cozy lamplit Mooney said. “We lost the most powerful voice there was streets—was simply staggering. “You know, just another day standing up for the little guy against big business.” in paradise,” I overheard a man saying on his mobile phone as he passed me, and I found myself nodding hello. SPENT THE NEXT SEVERAL DAYS LIVING SO FAR ABOVE MY I had dinner plans with an Aspen fixture named Tim means I almost expected to be arrested, which may not Mooney, who had chosen the low-key Topper’s Aspen restauhave been entirely unfortunate. I was, after all, homeless, rant, a small, warm joint off the beaten path that serves pasta and the Pitkin County Jail, I learned from the riffraff I was and brick-oven pizzas. When I arrived, he was at a table in carousing with, has beautiful views, great meals and free paintback, shaking his head at an item in the Aspen Daily News police ing classes offered by Aspen artists. blotter. (My favorite during my stay: STRANGER FOUND SLEEPING I skied the fresh powder on Aspen Mountain, or Ajax, as the locals call it, and had one of the best meals of my life at MonIN ASPEN HOME.) Mooney had a story like those of many residents I met. He tagna, inside the luxurious classic Aspen ski-in, ski-out hotel, arrived in Aspen in 1970 during a stopover on a road trip and the Little Nell. There, 34-year-old wunderkind chef Ryan never left. Since then he’s had many careers: he was a tour Hardy, a southwest finalist for the 2008 James Beard Awards, manager for Aspenites John Denver and Jimmy Buffett; he lists his olive oils on the menu like wine, and cooks up his deliwas a ski instructor for 23 years (many of them as Jack Nichol- cacies with produce and meat—I devoured a juicy lamb sauson’s private teacher) until he was famously fired in 2001 for sage with rapini and mustard—from his own nearby organic chainsawing trees on the mountain to make a new ski trail. In farm. Another night, I went out to the Richard Russo reading his honor, residents now call the run “the Dark Side of at the Given Institute, a state-of-the-art conference center nesMooney.” In his latest incarnation, Mooney is a real estate bro- tled into the oldest residential neighborhood in Aspen, where ker with Sotheby’s, which he admits “isn’t the best way to many of the homes still have the old Sears-catalog frames. Inmake a living at the moment.” But despite the downturn, the side, the lecture-hall setting was formal—“Thank you for invitaverage home price in Aspen is US$4.3 million; a US$43 mil- ing me to the UN,” Russo joked when he took the podium— lion spec house was sold on Red Mountain; and at Aspen’s but the feel of the event was small-town tea party. sister mountain, Snowmass, a colossal US$1.3 billion new base Afterward, a big group flocked through the snowy streets to development—nearly 93,000 square meters of new condos, the Victorian home of Lois Smith Brady. A small, quick-witted commercial space and time-shares—opened this year. blonde with a generous wine pour, Brady wove her guests toGrowth and development had always dominated local poli- gether, and by the end of the night I found myself with her, tics, and in that regard, nothing has changed—at least nothing Russo and several others in the kitchen, all of us but Russo for the better, in Mooney’s view. “We used to have a mom-and- pledging to do the Bowl together later in the week. I tottered pop ski town with old European-style hotels. Now, we have back to my hotel and, entertaining notions of missing my rethese new parked cruise ships at the base of Aspen Mountain,” turn flight for the next several years, decided to take a ride he said, referring to the luxury hotels that have opened in the “down valley” the next day, where the area’s most rapid develpast several years. Mooney believes a setback in the battle opment has been taking place. against overdevelopment was the death in 2005 of long-time The ripple effect of Aspen’s eminence and high price tag Aspen resident and activist Hunter S. Thompson. When has kicked off the gentrification of formerly low-income towns Thompson was alive, Mooney and a group of regulars met like Basalt and Carbondale, which today have nearly US$1 weekly in Hunter’s kitchen at Owl Farm, in what many de- million average home prices and attract people from all over scribe as “the command center of Aspen politics.” There they the country. Aspen residents now head to Carbondale the first strategized about how to keep out what Thompson called the Friday of each month for the First Fridays Art Walk, in which Greedheads, and limit development. In 1995, the group suc- the whole downtown is closed for gallery openings, and parties cessfully campaigned to prevent 737’s from flying into the air- pour into the streets. Architect Michael Lipkin had a major »

and I stood gasping at the 360-degree view 121

report on a “lost missing person yesterimpact on the area’s development, day,” who was found and then somefounding and building a planned comhow lost again. Then he turned the munity called Willits. meeting over to his staff snow-andWillits now has 1,800 residents, and weather expert, a barefoot, gnomelike represents a brand of sane and sustainman with a ZZ Top beard and taped able development. It’s home to a strip of toes, who spoke for nearly half an hour restaurants, above which sit two floors of about trade winds and pressure sysNew York–style loft apartments with tems, then finished by saying, “That’s million-dollar mountain views. Among about all I have.” them is the stylish Nouveau American “Okay, let’s go,” Smith said, and restaurant Crave, which stole its chef within a minute the room was empty. from Aspen’s venerable Hotel Jerome. I rode up the lift with Smith, a native I would have stayed, but I had dinner of Basalt, who was monitoring the raplans back in Aspen at a new restaurant dio strapped around his chest the called Social. Situated in the same whole way. When I asked him about downtown building as long-standing Asthe history of the Highland Bowl, he pen favorite Elevation, Social is also surprised me by getting emotional. He owned by the same team, which in- Lorenzo Semple III, of Suit Yourself. tried to open it first in 1984, but three cludes Gunnar Sachs. A sleek lounge with banquettes, silver globe chandeliers and a floor-to-ceil- of his patrolmen were killed while purposely triggering an avaing wine rack sitting behind a glass wall, Social serves tapas- lanche. It took him four years to get back the strength to atstyle plates—the Kobe meatballs, Boursin-cheese mashers tempt the challenge again. On the day the Bowl opened, he and caramelized-onion jus were just the ticket for me. Social’s laid three wreaths for his friends. “It’s kind of like a dream you affable manager and co-owner Denise Walters then took me don’t know will ever come true,” he said. There have been no downstairs to Elevation where we drank an açai martini that’s deaths since. When we got to the top, we skate-skied over to the patrol so delicious the bartender has to hide the Brazilian nectar station, a solar-powered cabin hovering on wood stilts. Soon a because the staff keeps sneaking off with it. All around us, people were talking about where to go next. drill was being organized to train two black Labrador “dog Some were heading to the bar at Matsuhisa, the Nobu restau- techs” to rescue avalanche victims. With a devious smile, Smith rant owned by billionaire Aspen resident Michael Goldberg. suggested I volunteer to get in “the hole,” to which I first I’d been hearing about Goldberg’s three-year-old music club, agreed, then changed my mind after seeing the tiny chamber Belly Up Aspen, which brings in world-class acts. Minutes lat- 2 meters under I was going to be buried in. While Smith laughed, I took up a shovel and helped bury two rookie patroler, we were there. The place was still rocking around midnight, but I had to be men. The dogs had never been tested before on the mountain up in a few hours. I was going to meet Mac Smith, the head of but within a minute of being set loose, they had located by scent both sites, and stood barking above them. the Aspen Highlands Ski Patrol. Finally, it was time to do the Bowl. I put on my helmet and The sky was dark when my alarm went off. I checked my email to find that the others who were to join me had canceled. goggles, and strapped my skis onto my back. “Good luck,” Smith said, as I headed to the Sno-Cat that would take me up I dressed and stumbled into the Highlands shuttle. The streets were almost empty, the lights from the Sno-Cats the first 500 meters of the 3-kilometer hike. the only visible movement on the mountain. I made my way to the bowels of the Highland base building, following the smell HE SKY WAS JUST BEGINNING TO CLOUD OVER AS I GOT of coffee to the patrol conference room. About 20 people— off the cat and began my ascent. Within 20 minutes, varying in age from their twenties to fifties, all but three of there was no trace of life around me. My world had them men—were gathered around, buckling their ski boots been reduced to wind. I remembered how Smith and eating muffins. These were the elite of Aspen, the chosen had told me he’d used more than 10 times the amount of dyfew who survived Mac Smith’s infamous boot camp and were namite to control the snow this year than he ever had. I’d also then selected for the most highly regarded patrol in Colorado. been told how Aspen resident Neal Biedelman, a world-reSmith has a gray walrus mustache and long eyebrows, one nowned mountaineer who survived Everest with Jon Krakauof which turns up and the other down. At exactly 7:55 A.M., he er, had nearly been buried alive earlier in the season while skistrode into the room with a long lope and leaned against the ing out of bounds. (For the record, Aspen would finish the back wall. Soft-spoken but businesslike, he jumped straight season with almost 1,295 centimeters of snow; the average per into a rundown of fences and signs to mend, and a follow-up year is 760 centimeters. For the first time in history, it opened

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for an encore day of skiing in June.) That’s it, I thought as I stepped blindly into thin air, this is my Everest. Then I heard someone coming up behind me. I looked over my shoulder to see Semple. “Right on,” he said, giving me a thumbs-up and hooﬁng by. Even as he disappeared into the cloud ahead, I knew then that I’d be okay. When I reached the

summit, the sky began to clear and I stood gasping at the 360-degree view. At last one thing was clear: as disparate as the interests and impressions that deﬁne Aspen are, the staggering physical beauty of the place was the reason they existed at all. Minutes later, I was knee-deep in champagne powder and falling once again for the town I knew and loved.

GUIDE TO ASPEN Sky Hotel 709 E. Durant Ave.; 1-970/9256760; theskyhotel.com; doubles from US$309. St. Regis Aspen Resort 315 E. Dean St.; 1-970/920-3300; stregisaspen.com; doubles from US$429.

Topper’s Aspen 211A Puppy Smith St.; 1-970/920-0069; dinner for two US$40. WHAT TO SEE AND DO Amen Wardy 210 S. Galena St.; 1-970/ 920-7700; amenwardyaspen.com. Aspen Institute 1000 N. Third St.; 1-970/ 925-7010; aspeninstitute.org. Aspen Santa Fe Ballet Aspen District Theater; 1-970/925-7175; aspensantafeballet.com. Belly Up Aspen 450 S. Galena St.; 1-970/ 544-9800; bellyupaspen.com. Magidson Fine Art 525 E. Cooper Ave.; 1-970/920-1001; magidson.com. Regal Watering Hole of Aspen 220 S. Galena St.; 1-720/275-3876; regalaspen.com.

WHEN TO GO Aspen is a year-round destination, with great hiking and mountain biking in summer. Ski season runs from the end of November through April. High season, and maximum powder (38 centimeters per week on average), is between January and March. The best deals can be found at the start of the season and in April. GETTING THERE From Asia, the quickest route to Aspen is via Los Angeles. From there, United Express (united.com) ﬂies to Aspen. In Aspen, the Roaring Fork Transportation Authority (1-970/925-8484; rfta.com) runs complimentary shuttles to the mountains.

OUTFITTERS Ski Equipment Rental aspensnowmass.com; rentals from US$39.95 a day. Ski or Snowboard School aspensnowmass. com; lessons US$119 a day.

Montagna sommelier Richard Betts (seated) and chef Ryan Hardy, enjoy the ﬁre at the Little Nell.

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK Cloud Nine Alpine Bistro Aspen Highlands; 1-970/923-8715; lunch for two US$50.

T+L TIP Check stayaspensnowmass.com for a wide range of house and apartment rental information, ideal for families and groups.

Crave Kitchen 231 Harris St., Basalt; 1-970/927-2837; dinner for two US$70.

WHERE TO STAY Aspen Meadows Resort 845 Meadows Rd.; 1-970/925-4240; dolce-aspen-hotel.com; doubles from US$225.

Matsuhisa Aspen 303 Main St.; 1-970/5446628; dinner for two US$150.

GREAT VALUE

Elevation 304 E. Hopkins Ave.; 1-970/5445166; dinner for two US$106.

Suit Yourself Mobile Skiwear Rental Obermeyer and Scott USA; 1-970/920-0295; from US$55 a day. WHERE TO SKI Comprehensive information on Aspen Highlands, Aspen Mountain, Buttermilk and Snowmass, including package deals and lift tickets, can be found at aspensnowmass.com. FESTIVALS Wintersköl 1-970/925-1940; aspenchamber. org; Jan. 14–17, 2010. ESPN Winter X Games aspensnowmass.com; Jan. 28–31.

Montagna 675 E. Durant Ave.; 1-970/9206330; dinner for two US$120.

Aspen Summer Words Red Brick Center for the Arts; 1-970/925-3122; aspenwriters.org; June 20–25.

Paciﬁca Seafood & Raw Bar 307 S. Mill St.; 1-970/920-9775; dinner for two US$130.

Hyatt Grand Aspen 415 E. Dean St.; 1-970/429-9100; aspen.hyatt.com; doubles from US$449.

Aspen Music Festival 1-970/925-3254; aspenmusicfestival.com; July 1–Aug. 22.

Social 304 E. Hopkins Ave.; 1-970/925-9700; dinner for two US$75.

Aspen Ideas Festival Aspen Institute; 1-970/544-7916; aifestival.org; July 5–11.

Little Nell 675 E. Durant Ave.; 1-970/9204600; thelittlenell.com; doubles from US$560.

Sundeck Restaurant Aspen Mountain; 1-970/544-9345; lunch for two US$25.

Jazz Aspen Snowmass 1-970/920-4996; jazzaspen.com.

Hotel Jerome, A Rock Resort 330 E. Main St.; 1-970/920-1000; hoteljerome.com; doubles from US$249.

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Bangkok BEST OF

Where to sleep like royalty, when best to visit Chatuchak, where to ﬁnd the best local fashions, why the Grand Palace isn’t the only tourist spot in town, where to ﬁnd a potent martini and why a four-table restaurant could be the answer to your seafood prayers. It’s all here. By Jennifer Chen and Chris Kucway. Photographed by Cedric Arnold

Hipsters on the prowl at Chatuchak. Opposite: Two monks stroll through Wat Po.

MON TH 2 0 0 8| T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E . C O M

Unseen Bangkok Below: Art school students in the Old City. Right: Pak Khlong Talat flower market at night. Opposite: Ámantee, an oasis in Bangkok.

ne has an n opinion of Ban ngkkokk, Evveryon evven—ssom me would d say particullarlyy— th hose who havve never been. It’ss a cityy wh hose repputtattioon precedes it, whoosee naame coonjjurres up im mages th hat wouuld d nee ver crooss yoour mind elsew whee re.. Even the marketing catchphrase “Amazing Thailand” takes on its own speciﬁc bent in the country’s capital, a tongue-in-cheek reply from residents witnessing scenes that are entirely inexplicable. Wicked contrasts abound. This is a city where the smell of delicious food permeates every street corner—makeshift restaurants making a stroll along the sidewalks all but impossible unless food is your passion—and also one where the main English-language daily features ads for sex change operations on its front page. The Thais themselves are nothing if not genteel, the city’s trafﬁc snarls absolutely and always nerve-rattling. Yet within its often-crumbling core and behind its ultra-modern façades, there’s a fascinating city full of both secrets and tried-and-tested diversions. Five-star is always an option, whether it’s accommodation or dining, but many a memorable stay or meal is available in less-obvious and often more affordable locales. On the following pages is a taste of the best Bangkok has to offer, some stops established but always-great standbys, others new and on the cutting edge of what makes the city so special. » 127

WHERE TO EAT It’s impossible to go hungry here, and no matter what you’re craving—streetside noodles or haute cuisine—one of these restaurants will definitely fit the bill. BANGKOK CLASSICS ● Minimalist décor and edgy art exhibitions give the 11-year-old Eat Me (1/6 Soi Pipat 2; 66-2/238-0931; eatmerestaurant.com; dinner for two with wine Bt3,900) a perennially contemporary look. Australian owner Darren Hausler also keeps things fresh with a regularly changing menu; tender beef cheeks with saffron and dates and fig and blue cheese ravioli are among the current standouts. Save room for the dietdestroying sticky toffee pudding. ● Difficult to find and just as difficult to make a reservation, the tiny four-table Jok Kitchen (23 Soi Isara Nuphap, Plubplachai Rd.; 66-2/221-4075 or 66/819-199-468) rewards its diners with lip-smackingly fresh seafood courtesy of chef–owner Somchai Tangsinpoolchai, a.k.a. Jok. Multi-course, seafood-heavy menus are dictated by what’s available, though seared snowfish with lettuce and meaty steamed crab frequently appear. ● French businessmen and Japanese ladies-who-lunch fill the tables at Le Beaulieu (Grand Mercure Bangkok Asoke Residence, 50/5 Soi 19, Sukhumvit Rd.; 66-2/204-2004; lebeaulieu.com; set weekday lunch Bt495 per person), an airy eatery with a cheerful sky-blue ceiling. Chef Hervé Frerard presides, ensuring that the kitchen turns out perfect executions of French classics. The three-course business lunch is one of the best deals in town. Celebrating a raise? Order the sublime Bresse pigeon. ● A rambling garden, boules court and alfresco seating make the homey Le Lys (148/11 Soi 6, Nang Linchi Rd.; 66-2/287-1898–9; lelys.info; dinner for two Bt700) the perfect spot for the cool season. There’s nothing revolutionary about the menu—just fresh, well-balanced renditions of Thai standards like lemongrass salad and roast duck with Penang curry. AFFORDABLE FARE ● A popular izakaya at the heart of Bangkok’s Japanese community, Torajiro (87 Soi 13, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor); 66/811-446-913; torajiro.net; dinner for two Bt900) offers yakitori, sushi, sashimi and other favorites—all at reasonable prices. Order the Bt880 sushi and sashimi platter, and a round of ice-cold Yebisu beers to wash it down. ● Plenty of stalls offer khao mun gai, or Hainanese chicken rice, but Boon Tong Kiat (440/5 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor); 66-2/390-2508; lunch for two Bt120) has an authoritative version. The orange-hued rice is made with a mélange of spices. ● Named after Taipei’s famed breakfast joint, Yonghe Doujiang, a.k.a. Raan Nam Tao Hu Yong Her, (68 Narathiwat Rd.; 66-2/635-0003; dinner for two Bt400) boasts the city’s best Shanghainese soup dumplings. Niurou juan, or rolled beef pancakes, and generous bowls of niurou mian, handmade noodles with beef tendon, are also superb. ● A native of Emilia-Romagna, Sergio Forte runs Bacco (35/1 Soi 53, Sukhumvit Rd.; 66-2/662-4538; bacco-bkk.com; dinner for two Bt1,000), a cavernous, family-friendly osteria with an extensive menu of pastas, pizzas, risottos and antipasti. Try the cassoni verde—a flatbread stuffed with spinach, mozzarella and parmigiano reggiano—and the pappardelle with duck ragù. ● Tucked inside an anonymous side-soi, the humble Namuskar (9 Soi 8, Sukhumvit Rd., walk down about 15 meters and look for the alley on the left; 66-2/255-1869; dinner for two Bt500) dishes up consistently excellent North Indian curries—the vegetarian ones are particularly tasty—that are spiced according to your taste. Genial owner Atul Hora, or Tony, is usually on hand to make recommendations. » 128

INSIDER PICKS DYLAN JONES and BO SONGVISAVA, Bo.lan ● Dylan: “There’s a northern shop on Thanon Narathiwat [on the corner with Thanon Chan]. It’s not street food, but it doesn’t have a name and it’s under a tent, so it’s semi-permanent. They’ve got barbecue, grilled things, laarb, nam thok [spicy beef salad] — a lot of rich ﬂavors. I love the laarb moo. It’s not dumbed down, it’s nice and hot and it’s full of those nice Isaan herbs.” ● Bo: “On Sathu Pradit

[near the intersection with Thanon Chan] there are stalls that are only open at nighttime, and you can get all sorts of noodles and boiled rice with duck blood. They have yen ta fo [rice noodles in a pink soup], but I like the ba mee, egg noodles, with barbecued pork.” ● Dylan: “Aoi [restaurant]

— there’s one in Emporium and one in Silom. The Silom one is nicer [132/10-11 Soi 6, Silom Rd.; 66-2/235-2321], it’s got that old Japanese house feel.”

Chowtown Clockwise from top right: Eat Me, a Bangkok institution; a fish course at Gianni’s, an Italian eatery; Bo Songvisava and Dylan Jones, the chef–owners of Bo.lan restaurant; Le Beaulieu, a French restaurant.

The view of Wat Arun from the riverside Chakrabongse Villas, right. Below: A homey room at the Old Bangkok Inn.

Seven Hotel offers stylish rooms, left. Above: ﾃ［antee is a peaceful complex of Thai houses, with a gallery and restaurant.

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STREET EATS No visit to Bangkok would be complete without some grazing on the street. Start your morning at Lumpini Park, where elderly Thai-Chinese gather to do qigong exercises, followed by a breakfast of hot soy milk with pa tong ko, or fried dough. Look out for the vendor selling hot buns stuffed with sweetened black sesame. Office workers, expats and high-society doyennes alike pull up to the nighttime street stalls along Sukhumvit Road’s Soi 38 for egg noodles with duck or barbecued pork, phad see-ew (stir-fried rice noodles) and congee. Tanao Road in the old city is one of the best locations for street food; drop by Kor Panich (431–433 Tanao Rd.; 66-2/2213554; sweet sticky rice with topping Bt30) for the city’s best sweet sticky rice, accompanied by various toppings. For more on street food, see our interviews with Bo Songvisava and Dylan Jones of Bo.lan on page 128. WORTH THE SPLURGE ● Don’t be put off by its location in a parking lot. Those in the know flock to Shunbo (33/5 Soi 11, Sukhumvit Rd.; 66-2/254-5885; dinner for two with sake Bt1,800) for outstanding Japanese fare. This low-key spot is a sumibiyaki—an eatery that specializes in grilling over charcoal. Start with the tako wasabi—octopus with wasabi—and proceed to the grilled cod roe, pork ribs and shimesaba no aburiyaki, or whole mackerel that’s cooked with a blowtorch by your table. ● A Melbourne import, Grossi Trattoria and Wine Bar (Ground floor, Intercontinental Hotel Bangkok, 973 Ploenchit Rd.; 66-2/656-0444; dinner for two with wine Bt3,200) dishes up authentic, flavorful fare from all corners of Italy. These aren’t “inter” dishes watered down for local consumption. Not to be missed are the burrata served with anchovies and lemon, and the orecchiette alla Pugliese, handmade whole-wheat pasta with broccoli, pecorino and potatoes. ● The jazzy décor might feel a bit dated, but local institution Gianni Ristorante (34/1 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd.; 66-2/252-1619; giannibkk.com; dinner for two with wine Bt3,000) still excels with polished service and creative yet comforting Mediterranean fare by namesake Gianni Favro. Portions are generous, so come with an appetite.

WHERE TO SLEEP ● At last count, Bangkok had 336 hotels—and there are more in the pipeline. Most of the big hotel chains are represented here, and in recent years, there’s been an explosion of boutique offerings. Even in such a saturated market, you’ll find some hidden gems. Formerly a royal residence, Chakrabongse Villas (396 Maharaj Rd.; 662/622-3356; chakrabongsevillas.com; doubles from Bt5,000) enjoys a secluded, riverside location in the old city. The four villas are filled with Thai and Chinese antiques and sumptuous silks. Budget-conscious guests can book one of the four “B+B” rooms, though it’s worth upgrading to the riverside villa for its large patio. ● With its attentive service and cozy ambiance, the family-run Old Bangkok Inn (607 Pra Sumen Rd.; 66-2/629-1787; oldbangkokinn.com; Bt3,190) is the closest thing to a bedand-breakfast here. The 10 rooms come with tasteful teak furnishings and modern amenities. Proprietor Nantiya Tulyanond is a veritable mine of information. ● With only six rooms, each in a different color, Seven (3/15 Soi 1, Sukhumvit 31; 662/662-0951; sleepatseven.com; doubles from Bt3,590) puts a modern Thai bent on the hotel front. Best of all, it’s within walking distance of both the Skytrain and MRT. ● Backpacker digs have come a long way from Khao San flophouses. Down in the Silom business district, the industrial-chic Lub d’s (4 Decho Rd.; 66-2/634-7999; lubd. com; doubles from Bt1,800) 36 rooms include eight spartan but spic-and-span en-suite doubles. Be forewarned: some of the younger guests can be rowdy. »

INSIDER PICKS PARAVI WONGCHIRACHAI Director of the National Discovery Museum Institute ● “I have to say the river

bus [inspires me], watching people of all walks of life get on and off, from the start to all the way down to the end of the line. … All of Bangkok’s chaotic bits — they’re life-affirming.” ● “I love the congee place in Saphan Leung [Jok Jom Somboon; 317/15 Soi Jom Somboon, Rama 4 Rd., Bangrak]. … They have the best fish and kidney congee — the kidneys are crunchy.” ● “There are several things I’d do to treat myself. First, I’d buy some cymbopogon — it’s a new aromatherapy line from Harnn [Harnn Heritage Spa; 4th floor, Siam Paragon, 991/1 Rama 1 Road; 66-2/610-9715–6]. I’d then get a new suit made at Enlever ses Vêtements — Louis is amazing. … And then I’d go have a grilled Matsuzaka at Shintaro [Four Seasons Bangkok, 155 Rajadamri Rd.; 66-2/1268866], while reading the new Michelin Kyoto and Osaka guide.”

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WHAT TO DO Once you’ve visited the ostentatious historical theme park that is the Grand Palace, the grounds of Wat Po to see its reclining image of Buddha, and the incenseshrouded circus that is the Erawan Shrine—all of which are worth a stop if you’ve never been before—it’s time to move on to some less-obvious addresses. ● Almost immediately next to Wat Po is the Museum of Siam (Sanam Chai Rd.; 662/225-2777), a stylish take on the country’s history. What makes the museum stand out are both its location in a beautifully restored government building and the modern tweak of incorporating interactive exhibits to detail the Thai way of life. ● For a guided tour of Bangkok’s past, give Smiling Albino (66-2/718-9561; smilingalbino.com) a shout. The company has walking tours of the city’s oldest neighborhood, Rattanakosin Island, that both center on local life and offer an intriguing look into Bangkok circa 1910. ● Everyone knows about Jim Thompson House (6 Soi Kasemsan 2; 66-2/216-7368; jimthompsonhouse.org) and it is worth a visit for its glimpse into Thailand’s teak past, but those in the know tend to visit M.R. Kukrit’s Heritage Home (19 Soi Phra Pinit; 662/287-2937) off Sathorn Road. A former prime minister, author and commentator on traditional Thai culture, M.R. Kukrit compiled this series of five teak houses with extensive gardens, which today is a tranquil gem in the rough of the city. ● Across the street from Sri Mariamman temple is Kathmandu Photo Gallery (87 Pan Rd.; 66-2/234-6700; kathmandu-bkk.com), located in a beautifully renovated applegreen shophouse. Run by well-known artist Manit Sriwanichpoom and writer and filmmaker Ing K, this two-story space hosts cutting-edge photo exhibitions. ● The wood-clad, Scandinavian-style Thailand Creative and Design Center (6th floor, Emporium Mall, Soi 24, Sukhumvit Rd.; 66-2/664 8448; tcdc.or.th) stages clever, designfocused shows that lure the city’s creative types. Drop by the boutique featuring funky handbags, jewelry and other accessories by up-and-coming local designers. ● If you’re looking to be polished, pummeled and pampered all in one go, head to Divana Nurture Spa (8 Soi 35, Sukhumvit Rd.; 66-2/661-6784) where Thai, Ayurvedic and relaxing treatments are all an option. The 100-minute Siamese Scent (Bt1,450) program includes a pepper-berry foot soak and traditional massage. ● Bangkok has its share of oases—you just need to know where to look. In the leafy Laksi district, Ámantee (131/3 Soi 13, Chaeng Wattana Rd.; 66-2/982-8694–5; amantee. com) is a collection of Thai bungalows that house a gallery of Asian antiques. Have lunch at the excellent restaurant, which doles out duck carpaccio, chocolate mousse with raspberry coulis and—that rarest commodity in this concrete jungle—peace.

WIT THIN N ITS CRU UMBLING COR RE AND BEH HIND ITS MOD DERN FAÇ ÇADES, THE ERE’S A FAS SCIN NATING CIT TY FULL OF BOT TH SECRETS AND D TRIEDAND D-TESTED D DIV VERSIONS

WHERE TO SHOP HOME WARES Chinoiserie and Victoriana take a funky turn at Casa Pagoda (Ozono, Soi 39, Sukhumvit Rd.; 66-2/258-1917; casapagoda.com): brightly colored armoires, zebra-striped armchairs, overstuffed Chesterﬁeld sofas. The brightly lit store also stocks more portable accessories like leather totes and plush quilted blankets. CLOTHING Raised in New York City, Suparerk Bhasaputra, or Louis, of Enlever ses Vêtements (59/3 Soi 31, Sukhumvit Rd.; 66-2/260-4660; enleversesvetements.com) makes streamlined, bespoke suits that rival Prada. Call ahead to book an appointment at his store, which also has handcrafted shoes, accessories and an art gallery upstairs. » 132

Bangkok Faces Clockwise from top right: Paravi Wongchirachai, the director of the National Discovery Museum Institute; the Buddha image at Wat Po; Pim Sukhahuta, the designer behind Sretsis; the library at the Thailand Creative and Design Center; peddling denim at Chatuchak; the giant rabbit in front of local tea house, Rabbit Tea; May T of Modern Dog spinning tunes at Happy Monday; Kathmandu Photo Gallery. Center: A flower trader at Pak Khlong Talat.

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The old-school Scala cinema at Siam Square.

SOUVENIRS ● If time is not on your side and some local arts and crafts are on your shopping list, head to the fourth floor of Siam Paragon mall with its great selection of shops of local designers. It’s not necessarily cheap, but the convenience more than makes up for that. Among the standouts is Natura (4th floor, Siam Paragon, 991/1 Rama 1 Rd.; 66-2/129-4535), a shop that specializes in cutlery, bowls, vases and much more all made from natural materials such as cinnamon wood, reclaimed teak and bamboo. ● A spin-off from spa products manufacturer Harn & Thann, Thann Native (3rd floor, Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Ploenchit Rd.; 66-2/656-1399) features hand-woven textiles and pretty household items. The tea sets—packed into a box covered in homespun, hilltribe fabric—make great gifts. ● Take your time to paw through the wares at the delightfully eccentric curio shop Incredible (116/4 Soi 23, Sukhumvit Rd.; 66-2/260-9690), a two-story space crammed with antique cutlery, bronze busts and everything in between. ● Exquisite embossed cards, scented candles and made-to-order stationery are the draw at Kin and Co. (2nd floor, 49 Terrace, Soi 49, Sukhumvit Rd., 66-2/260-7400), a petite space in one of Sukhumvit’s mini-malls. ● Everyone knows that there’s no better place to get lost in Bangkok than at Chatuchak Weekend Market (Mo Chit Skytrain station or Chatuchak MRT station), which the locals refer to as “JJ.” It’s best to visit just as the thousands of stalls are lifting their steel shutters between 9:00 and 9:30 A.M. when the crowds are sparse and the air cooler. Oh, and bring an empty bag or two. ● In parts, Bangkok has become a city of air-conditioned shopping malls but the outdoor Siam Square (Siam Skytrain station) is a great stop on the weekend if only to feel your age: here is where you’ll find the under-30 set flaunting their style. Don’t be offended if someone calls you lung, or uncle. At least they’re doing so with a smile. ● There’s no shortage of books about Bangkok but what is lacking are good books about Bangkok. We’d recommend the independent guidebook Bangkok City Scoops, which looks at the Thai capital through young, modern eyes. It costs Bt599 and is available at any of the city’s better bookstores.

AFTER DARK ●

It might not have sky-high views, but Aqua in the Four Seasons Bangkok (155 Rajadamri Rd.; 66-2/126-8866; fourseasons.com; drinks for two Bt400) reels in the city’s elite with potent martinis and laid-back, courtyard setting. ● Mixology reaches new heights at Bamboo Chic, the trendy pan-Asian restaurantlounge-bar at Le Méridien Bangkok (40/5 Surawong Rd.; 66-2/232-8888; lemeridienbangkok.com; drinks for two Bt440). The cocktails list includes fruity martinis and original concoctions such as the Bamboo Crush—a refreshing mix of ginger beer, Chivas Regal, apple juice and mint. ● Bangkok hipsters lounge on mismatched chairs while expat and local DJ’s spin disco, funk and reggae at dive-y Happy Monday (Ground ﬂoor, Ekamai Shopping Mall, Soi 10, Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Ekamai); 66-2/714-3953), the brainchild of Thanachai “Pod” Ujjin, the lead singer of Modern Dog. ● Wine is often overpriced and badly stored in Bangkok. But oenophiles will ﬁnd affordable vintages at the Pullman Bangkok’s sleek Wine Pub (8/2 Soi Rangnam, Phayathai Rd.; 66-2/680-9999) thanks to the parent company’s duty-free business. ● For a local dose of Chicago or Memphis, there’s nowhere better in Bangkok than Adhere the 13th Blues Bar (13 Samsen Rd.; no phone) near the Phra Athit pier. The narrow room—you can almost touch both walls at the same time—is usually packed, with good reason: this is the kind of place where musicians go to hear good music. ✚

INSIDER PICKS PIM SUKHAHUTA fashion designer ● “I go vintage shopping at Chatuchak and the night markets [Ratchadaphisek Night Market, next to Ratchadaphisek MRT station], it’s so much more inspirational than the boutiques. On Khao San [Road], there’s a stall in front of Burger King that I love going to.” ● “It’s Happened to Be a

Closet in Emporium [2nd ﬂoor, The Emporium, Soi 24, Sukhumvit Rd.; 66-2/6647211–2]. ... As soon as you walk in, you don’t feel like you’re in Bangkok or in a mall. There’s nothing like it here — there’s a nail salon, a restaurant with really good food. You can even get a foot massage.” ● “I love going into my sister’s [jewelry] shop, Matina Amanita [Lobby level, 999 Ploenchit Rd.; 662/656-1319; matinaamanita. com], to look at the pieces. There’s a DIY counter where you can mix-and-match and make your own charm bracelet. Or you can order custom work.”

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MADE IN SCOTLAND In search of the centuries-old traditions woven into Scotland’s textile trade, HEATHER SMITH MACISAAC carves a route through the Borders region to the Highlands and discovers why—when it comes to tartans, cashmere and tweed—some things will always be done by hand. Photographed by MARTIN MORRELL

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ounting sheep.

Not a good thing to be doing while navigating the narrow dual carriageways and even more confining rural roads that traverse

Country Comforts Opposite, clockwise from top left: Handcrafted Shetland tweed jackets at Lochcarron of Scotland textile mill, in Selkirk; producing a scarf for the Brooks Brothers Black Fleece label, designed by Thom Browne, at J.J. & H.B. 1788 Cashmere Mills, in Innerleithen, in the Borders region; a 1950’s swatch book, part of the archive at Lochcarron; spools of wool at J.J. & H.B. 1788 Cashmere Mills; the lounge at the Men’s Wear Hall at the House of Bruar, in Blair Atholl; a tartan plaid blanket at Bruar; a sign in the Borders region. Center: Sweater and scarf by Braemar, produced by J.J. & H.B. 1788 Cashmere Mills.

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eastern Scotland. In a country seemingly more populated by sheep than people, even the major motorway leading to and from the Highlands is only two lanes. During not-infrequent construction projects the route shrinks to one, a situation abjectly apologized for on the spot by the highway authority. But sitting in a line of traffic fully stopped to allow oncoming cars to pass afforded me the chance to study, between fleeting downpours, the lay of the land and the sheep upon it: lambs stumbling after their mothers; rams falling into line behind a leader; ewes grouped in a chat. Black faces blinked back at me, small heads pegged Tinkertoy-like to barrels of fluff atop twiggy black-stockinged legs. No matter where you look in Scotland, the landscape is littered with ruminants out of the popular British Claymation films of Wallace and Gromit. But far from just comical characters, they are the leading representatives of an industry as significant and particular to Scotland as whisky: woolens. I had wool on my back—a triple-ply cashmere V-neck, made in Scotland—and wool on the brain, ready to embark on a tour of the country’s leading producer of tartan, Lochcarron, in the Borders town of Selkirk. For years I’d been rubbing up against Scottish woolens, first as a schoolgirl suffering the scratchiness of a Black Watch plaid uniform, then as a relieved fetishist of Scottish softness in the form of cashmere. Blankets woven in the family tartan were Christmas gifts one year. Much later my Glaswegian mother-in-law introduced me to 19th-century wool paisley shawls that she treasured as much for their connection to home as for their autumnal beauty. Paisley got me thinking about other woolens that derive their names from Scottish places: Argyle, Tweed, Fair Isle, Shetland. For a small country, Scotland has been responsible for an outsize portion of wool heritage. Asia had its Silk Road. Scotland deserves a Wool Road. With that in mind, and with limitations of time that prevented ferry trips to the isles, I strung together an idiosyncratic mainland route of almost »

For being in a temperate zone, Scotland is still a land OF EXTREME CONDITIONS:

mighty winds and wet, stony terrain

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The boutique at Lochcarron mills, an hour’s drive south of Edinburgh. Opposite: Stopping to take in the hills of Scotland’s Highlands. Lamb’s-wool blanket by Johnstons; vest, Moschino Cheap and Chic; dress, 3.1 Phillip Lim.

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Stobo Castle Health Spa, above; sheep graze near the ruins of Horsburgh Castle, outside Peebles, right.

900 kilometers, taking in textile mills, heritage centers, and shops that celebrated in particular the twin peaks of Scottish woolens: tartan and cashmere. Where most visitors make a beeline for the Highlands, I started south of Edinburgh, in the compact and far less explored Borders region, heartland of Scottish knitwear. There, the Tweed River runs through or close by several major towns, supplying, like a vital artery, the water for life and livelihood…the mills. After a week, it all began to knit together: my wild rides through Brigadoon landscapes and Shakespearean tempests and my orderly factory tours, led by dedicated workers as delighted to inform as they were that I was so interested. The very same conditions that made Scotland the destination for golf, flyfishing, salmon and whisky—rugged topography, cool temps, abundant churning rivers and streams of pure, soft water— make this country a standout in the world of fine woolens: lovely cashmere sweaters, wool dressing gowns (Sherlock Holmes’s favorite indoor attire), tweed jackets and tartan blankets. For being in a temperate zone, Scotland is still a land of extreme conditions: mighty winds and ample wet, harsh, stony terrain; thorns, thistles and burrs. Weather’s usual role as conversation starter and uniter blossoms in Scotland into riotous and endless commentary. Nothing beats a reliable mackintosh 142

and wooly jumper whether it’s blowing a-hooly (breezy) or gonna ding doon (pour with rain). Forecast: dreich (drizzly)? Best to wear your wellies. Of all the comments and vocabulary I collected en route, the bottom line delivered by Don Matheson, owner of Boath House Hotel, in Nairn, said it best: “There is no such thing as bad weather; there is only unsuitable clothing.” By necessity the Scottish wardrobe is hardwearing, long-lasting, warm and water-resistant—all qualities that have the added bonus of igniting a legendarily frugalsensibility. A cashmere sweater that’s a luxury to most people is for a Scot a sensible investment; nothing else comes close in ratio of warmth to weight. Properly cared for, it will last a lifetime.

I was beginning to see sheep not so much as flocks upon the hills but as fuzzy crewel knots embellishing yards of thick melton. Drystone “dykes,” all pockets of shadow amid stacks of rock, that bordered every field and lane evoked equally rough and tough Harris tweed. I saw gorse in bloom across rises of heather and wild thyme as the bright accent color in an earthy plaid. Amid the eddies of the Tweed River, swollen droplets mimicked the patterns in traditional wool shawls that once issued by the thousands from the Jacquard looms in the textile town of Paisley. In the gentler, more English landscape of the southern Borders region, the hills fittingly sported mantles of green as smooth and lush as cashmere. At Lochcarron of Scotland, over the noise of machinery and through an accent showering my ears like plunking raindrops, I labored to understand Alwyn Johnston. With the depth of an expert and the buoyancy of a newbie, he guided me through every step of tartan production, from dyeing wool and threading looms with spun yarn to fringing scarves after they’d been snipped from yardage. When a red light atop a loom alerts workers to a flaw in weaving, the problem is fixed by hand. At the end of the process, the fabric is forwarded to darners in an adjacent room. Aided by wide light boxes, they spot any additional flaws and make them disappear by threading a single length of yarn through the fabric. This is the local version of quality control that can only be addressed by eagle eyes, steady hands and a healthy dose of cheery patience. From the mill building churning with looms, Johnston and I crossed the drive to a quiet warehouse where row upon row of broad metal shelving presented brilliant bolts of fabric. Each of the 1,300 tartans Lochcarron makes is a meaningful interpretation of a grid, and every design is copyrighted and listed with the Scottish Register of Tartans, thereby reducing, according to the mission statement of its predecessor, the Scottish Tartans World Register, “the likelihood of trivialisation and muddle.” The names of the traditional clan tartans, available in ancient, modern and weathered variations, read like the roll call of a regiment: Buchanan, Campbell, Duncan, Fraser, Ogilvie, Stewart, Urquhart, Wallace and many, many Macs. More recent designs reflect the singular ability of tartan to mourn, honor and celebrate: a New York City tartan (blue for the Hudson River, green for Central Park, two black lines for those lost on September 11); the Diana, Princess of Wales memorial tartan (light blue for her eyes, red heart for her charity work); a Model T Ford centenary tartan (mostly black, with red and gold accents.) In Lochcarron’s design studio, tradition partners with trend.

A banner of the woolen guild trumpets its symbol, a ram suspended by a ribbon (more familiar to Americans as Brooks Brothers’s logo), as well as its motto: We dye to live and live to die. Textile workers are a loyal and direct lot. Thick archival scrapbooks cataloguing historic stripe patterns rest on tables alongside racks holding the latest samples, from the conventional to the more avant-garde in colorway and weave, destined for fashion houses in Europe and Japan. The Japanese have taken to plaid as obsessively as they once adopted golf and whisky, commissioning tartans for everything from school uniforms to couture coats. To correct for Scottish Jews having gone without their own tartan for three centuries, one that includes the blue and white of the Israeli flag debuted last year. This—a subtle visual with a larger backstory—is what passes for radical in Scotland, a land still remote and clannish enough for change to be not so much viewed with suspicion as seldom contemplated. I well remember my mother-in-law’s modest money-making schemes, fueled by her postwar residency in entrepreneurial America, being soundly squelched by her Glaswegian sister, “Ach, Elsie, you canna do that here.” Tradition hangs as tough in Scotland as the wooly willow to the rocky escarpments battered by high winds off the North Sea. It is the small country’s blessing and its curse. The reason some of the finest cashmere knitwear is produced in Scotland, even if the goat hair itself is imported from Mongolia, is that it’s made following labor-intensive methods practiced for decades. The reason the latest styles don’t typically come from Scotland is that Scottish cashmere is made following the patterns that have stood for decades: God dress the queen. Change is afoot, though. The country’s textile industry— particularly that focused on tartan and cashmere—is taking “a new walk in the old field,” to quote a Scottish proverb. Pringle of Scotland stepped things up in 2005 by hiring its first creative director, Clare Waight Keller, exactly 100 years after coining the term knitwear for newly introduced garments like cashmere cardigans. Within a year, the buzz at the collections during fashion week in Milan was emitting an unfamiliar signal: Scozia, meaning Scotland. In Hawick (pronounced Hoyk), the largest town in the Borders and for centuries its capital of textiles, the local government itself has stepped up to recognize the profound importance of textiles to the area. I arrived at the Borders Textile Towerhouse, a handsomely restored 16th-century edifice of rough and smooth stone, only weeks after it opened last spring. Intended to convey the heritage and future of textiles, the intelligent permanent exhibition was just the concise thread »

Amid the eddies of the Tweed River, droplets mimicked the patterns IN TRADITIONAL WOOL SHAWLS

once issued from looms in the town of Paisley

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I’d been searching for. I moved from sobering displays on the second floor (a large wooden loom that literally loomed, as dark and forbidding as a medieval rack; a blowup of a vintage photo of factory workers, all women and girls bent over their work save for two men standing, obviously supervisors) to flights of fancy on the third floor. Here were the icons of Scottish fashion: Pringle cashmere twinsets from the 50’s, bold intarsia designs from the 60’s by Ballantyne and Braemar, a Vivienne Westwood ode to argyle and tartan (shirt and tie, sweater, skirt, socks and cap), and a fantastic “armored sweater” by Christopher Kane, Scotland’s newest fashion star. Compared to the forward thinking on view at the Towerhouse, that of the knitwear companies still clustered in Hawick was somnolent. At Peter Scott, a label most associated with golf sweaters customized with club logos, signing up for a factory tour is as straightforward as entering the outlet shop in the heart of town and asking to see the adjacent mill. One doesn’t so much join a tour as generate one. Every worker was happy to interrupt his rhythm to demonstrate and explain. Each room along the winding way through the 19th-century compound represented a step in the process of putting a sweater together. Workmanship reached a bar set high, but design remained stuck in neutral, with proportions holding fast to boxy shapes, Balmoral casual wear at best. A drop-in tour of the factory that’s been in operation since 1788 doesn’t exist at Ballantyne, but there is a list of other invigorations new president and CEO Massimiliano “Max” Zegna Baruffa plans to bring to Scottish cashmere’s most luxurious label. Though the company’s new U.K. postal code–like name—J.J. & H.B. 1788 Cashmere Mills—is a bit of a hurdle, Baruffa’s otherwise spot-on instincts promise to restore luster to the label. While improving efficiency on the one hand, he is working to preserve the intensive handwork required for intarsia, a technique that has always set Ballantyne apart. Elaborate designs of roadsters, butterflies, polo players and favorite hounds (Baruffa will soon be able to wear on his chest the Weimaraners he raises) are still produced using colored pencil and graph paper before being transferred to looms and handmade by artisans who apprentice for no less than two years. Experienced finishers simply sense how long to wash cashmere— from seven to 45 minutes—to achieve the softest and cleanest fibers. The number of things a computer cannot do may be the ticket to the Scottish cashmere industry’s future. Ballantyne has its Italian; Todd & Duncan, supplier of cashmere yarn to Hermès, Gucci, Dior and Dolce & Gabbana, has an Irishman, James McArdle, effecting change. A genial busi-

nessman who values local yet thinks global, McArdle is moving his company forward by recognizing the past. While chairman of the Scottish Cashmere Club, a consortium of 13 heritage labels, he celebrated Scotland’s unique standing with the launch of a website detailing the craft, quality and innovation associated with its members. The elegant and soft-spoken manner of the site allows cashmere to sell itself. Curiously, the farther north I ventured in Scotland, away from the concentration of mills in the Borders, and Scotland’s more populated Glasgow-Edinburgh midsection, the more sophisticated the marketing of textiles became. The House of Bruar, a compound of buildings surrounding a courtyard, including the Men’s and Women’s Wear Hall, Food Hall, Knitwear and Cashmere Hall, Country Living Hall, and Rod and Reel restaurant, takes its architectural cues (whitewashed stucco; slate roofs) from a traditional Victorian hunting lodge. But its offerings are merchandised, American-style, to the hilt. House of Bruar’s position, hard by the motorway just north of Pitlochry with easy access and ample parking, is designed to snag every traveler making his way to the Highlands. And its range of wares is intended to provide everything one might need (or want) before entering the wilds: somber waxed Barbour coats, vivid quilted jackets, horn-handled knives, tweed dog beds and footstools, and hampers packed with haggis and Hendrick’s gin. Outside, under the awning, wheelbarrows offer packets of Scottish peat to fire up the stove. By the Blair Atholl, in the House of Bruar’s Knitwear Hall, I finally came across the stylish woolens I was looking for. In shades either subtler or brighter and proportions longer and narrower than the classic styles, here at last were cashmere sweaters I could see treasuring for decades. Nearly every piece I was attracted to bore the label JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN. This was a hopeful sign; Johnstons and the town of Elgin, a spit away from the Moray Firth that spills into the North Sea, were my final destination. Compared with its neighbor, the 13th-century Elgin Cathedral, now a magnificent ruin, Johnstons (est. 1797) is a spry youth, though still one of the oldest mills in Scotland. Certainly, its approach to business is up-to-date. Here is a company that recognizes that visitors may have traveled hours to get to Elgin, only to forgo the mill tour in favor of a quick pass through the Heritage Centre before getting to the main objective: shopping. To be fair, the Heritage Centre, launched just one year ago with their Royal Highnesses the Duke and Duchess of Rothesay (a.k.a. Charles and Camilla) in attendance, does cover all the steps of production in a succinct and polished presentation. Best of all are a taxidermied Mongolian

Compared with its neighbor, the 13th-century Elgin Cathedral, Johnstons is a SPRY YOUTH but still one of the oldest mills in Scotland

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goat (my, what a lovely coat) and a touchy-feely installation comparing the dreamiest natural fibers: cashmere, vicuña, alpaca, merino lamb’s wool, angora and camel hair. I had launched my trip with tartan immersion. Now, near its finish, I discovered at Johnstons’s Heritage Centre a tartan variation known as estate tweeds. Far from the salt-and-pepper variety favored by professorial types, estate tweeds, essentially plaids that are protected patterns in subtle natural shades, are expensive camouflage for hunters and sophisticated woolens for those not swaddled at birth in a family tartan. An estate tweed identifies a place rather than a clan. Johnstons stocks 30 patterns for custom orders, carries a range of clothing as well as upholstered furniture in estate tweeds, and has a bespoke service for custom tweeds. The actual tour of Johnstons’s mill at a bend in the Lossie River covers all the usual bases, and then some. It was here that I encountered teasels. I had always wondered what gave fine cashmere a ripply finish akin to silky-smooth curly maple. Turns out it’s the very same gift of nature—the thistle-like

head of a teasel plant—that ﬂuffs the upholstery of Rolls-Royces. When wet, the spiky ends of the head “tease out” and comb the cashmere ﬁbers. A cashmere scarf or sweater that pills hasn’t met a teasel. A big revolving drum with metal bars houses the teasels, yet another machine among dozens that hum and whir and clickety-clack throughout Johnstons’s campus of mill buildings dating as far back as the late 18th century. But it takes a skilled worker to recognize when teasels need to be replenished, just as it takes an old hand to sense how long to leave wool in a dyeing vat to achieve a particular color. My visits to the textile mills had delivered an unexpected reaction: an appreciation more for the Marys, Margarets and Graces, the Brians, Arthurs and Georges, than for all the 19th- and 20th-century automation that had propelled Scotland to international standing in the world of woolens. It was eye work and handwork, so practiced they appeared intuitive, that deserved the glory and that led me to understand why Scotland-made came at a price worth paying.

GUIDE TO SCOTLAND mansion where Slow Food chef Charles Lockley creates six-course Scottish dinners. Nairn; 44-1667/454-896; www.boath-house. com; doubles from £300, including breakfast and dinner. Killiecrankie House Hotel Small hotel surrounded by four acres of woods and perennial gardens. The restaurant and bar are popular with locals. Killiecrankie-by-Pitlochry, Perthshire; 44-1796/473-220; doubles from £198, including breakfast and dinner. GREAT VALUE

WHEN TO GO Spring and fall are the most pleasant months in Scotland, and are best for driving excursions around textile country. In April are the first sunny days of spring but May tends to be the driest month of the year. GETTING THERE Fly to London — most airlines have daily nonstop flights from Asia’s major cities — then pick up a one-hour connecting flight to Edinburgh. For more information, visit cometoscotland.com. WHERE TO STAY Most Scottish country hotels include dinner in the price of a room. Boath House Hotel An eight-room Regency

Stobo Castle Health Spa A 19th-century stone mansion with a new spa. Book the Cashmere Suite for the ultimate in cocooning: bedroom walls lined with claret-colored Holland and Sherry cashmere and a soaking tub carved from limestone. Stobo, Peeblesshire; 44-1721/725-300; www. stobocastle.co.uk; doubles from £250, including breakfast and lunch. Traquair House Former hunting lodge of Scottish royalty that offers three elegant guest rooms. Innerleithen, Peeblesshire; 44-1896/830-323; traquair.co.uk; doubles from £180, including breakfast and dinner. Windlestraw Lodge Set high above the road, with views over the Tweed River valley from most of its six bright rooms. Owner Julie Reid will GREAT VALUE

Traquair House.

walk you through the whisky on offer in the bar while her husband, Alan, is busy preparing local wood pigeon with black pudding for dinner. Walkerburn, Peeblesshire; 44-1896/870-636; windlestraw.co.uk; doubles from £210, including breakfast and dinner. WHAT TO SEE Free drop-in tours are available at the mills listed below, except where noted. Borders Textile Towerhouse 1 Tower Knowe, Hawick, Roxburghshire; 44-1450/377-615; heartofhawick.co.uk; open daily (closed on Tuesdays and Sundays from November through March). House of Bruar By Blair Atholl, Pitlochry, Perthshire; 44-1796/483-236; houseofbruar. com; open daily. J.J. & H.B. 1788 Cashmere Mills Innerleithen, Peeblesshire; 44-1896/830-222; braemar 1868. com; tours available through select hotels. Johnstons Newmill, Elgin, Morayshire; 44-1343/554-000; johnstonscashmere.com; open daily. Lochcarron of Scotland Waverley Mill Rogers Rd., Selkirk; 44-1750/726-000; lochcarron.com; closed Sundays. Peter Scott 11 Buccleuch St., Hawick, Roxburghshire; 44-1450/372-311; peterscott. co.uk; closed Sundays.

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Off in the far north of Laos, the village of Ban Nam Wang.

AFTER BECOMING THE FIRST FOREIGNER TO VISIT A REMOTE MOUNTAINTOP VILLAGE IN NORTHERN LAOS, ANDREW BURKE DISCOVERS THAT THE LOCAL ATTITUDE TOWARDS ECOTOURISM, WHILE IN ITS INFANCY, IS HEADED IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION

SITTING IN A DIRT-FLOOR HOUSE ON A NORTHERN

LAO mountaintop, I can feel it getting cool outside. Indoors, the embers of a smoldering fire keep the air warm and smoky. We’re well off the electricity grid and there are no windows in the bamboo walls. As night falls, several villagers and a dog are eyeing us. We’re not dangerous. But we are unusual enough that they dare not look away. No one speaks. Our slight, gray-haired host, Ja Paw, busies himself stoking the fire. After a while he sits down and peers at us as if to ask what exactly two white men are doing in his living room in his poor village in the middle of nowhere? Ja Paw, however, is not the querying type. Instead, I ask some of the million or so questions rattling around in my head. What is the name of this village? “Ban Nam Wang.” How many people live here? “Eighty-two, in 22 families,” he replies. How many children do you have? “Eleven, from two wives.” How often do foreigners come to this village? Ja Paw’s eyebrows rise, his shoulders draw back. “Never!” Now we are both shocked. “This village has been here for 22 years and no foreigner has ever visited,” he continues. “Some people here have never seen a falang like you.” Being the first foreigners to “discover” somewhere is thrilling, or as my trekking mate Alex Collins puts it: “Cool. Very cool.” But, while I will always have a great dinnertable anecdote, the impact of my arrival is potentially far greater for Ja Paw and his fellow villagers. Would our visit change their lives? If so, for better or for worse? »

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Photographed by ANDREW BURKE

Hidden Laos Above: One of the basic homes in Ban Nam Wang. Below: Accessing the village means trekking through dense forest.

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Jungle Love Above: A trio of local teenagers build their own tiny huts, a ďŹ rst step towards independence. Below: The remote landscape.

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24 HOURS. I’M SITTING IN A STREETSIDE bar in Luang Nam Tha forlornly sharing a Beerlao with our trekking guide Bouakhet. The wiry, amiable, 48-year-old is gently but persistently telling me that my best-laid plans have gone awry. Our trek has been canceled, a rare occurrence in Laos. It’s time to improvise. “There is one village I’ve been wanting to visit for a long time,” Bouakhet tells me. He cautiously lays out his plan. My spirits rise. “It is a Lahu village on top of a mountain,” he explains. It’s near the border with China. No other trekking company goes there. “Maybe we can survey it and I can see if it is good for taking trekkers there. What do you think?” Bouakhet’s offer is an amazing opportunity. The 2,224-squarekilometer Nam Ha National Protected Area is a sparsely populated valley, the likes of which make Laos the ecotourism darling of Southeast Asia. Established 10 years ago, there are now a staggering 71 different trekking routes into its forests and along its rivers, many leading to minority ethnic villages. One aim of these protected areas is to introduce tourists to some of the poorest communities in Laos—to those most in EWIND

our 10 kilograms of food into a backpack he fashions from an old nylon rice bag, a bath towel, a piece of twine and two short lengths of rope. Nothing high-tech here. We set off through the village and enter a valley whose steep walls are blanketed in thick jungle and bathed in welcome sunshine after days of monsoon rain. The valley floor is terraced with rice paddies and before long we come to the first of several fast-flowing, shin-deep streams. After one crossing, Bouakhet stops and, with barely a glance down, nonchalantly pulls a leech off his crotch. I’m incredulous, but he just walks on as if nothing happened. We stop for lunch in a narrow valley. Seng liberates a nearby banana tree of a few leaves to use as plates. Bouakhet lays out an array of local specialties on the leaves: a tart salad of chopped galangal, red chili, wild garlic, ground peanuts and green leaf vegetables; mouthwatering buffalo jerky; fresh bamboo stuffed with ground pork, slow steamed and deep fried; mountains of sticky rice; and ripe mangoes. Delicious. After lunch, we climb into thick jungle. Towering trees mix with thickets of bamboo, the hot air thick with the smell of

BAN NAM WANG IS ONE OF THOSE INCREASINGLY RARE PLACES TRULY ‘BEYOND COKE.’ SET ON A MOUNTAINTOP SCRAPED BARE OF TREES, THE VILLAGE’S 16 HOMES ARE BUILT COMPLETELY WITHOUT NAILS need. The trade-off is that the communities are expected to stop hunting for endangered species and cease logging within the protected area. Paul Eshoo, who helped set up trekking routes in the area a decade ago, sums it up: “In the West, ecotourism is about minimizing the impact on a particular protected area. And that’s ﬁne. Here we also want to minimize negative impacts. But we also have a positive impact. We’re changing people’s lives.” According to a report published by UNESCO last year, those changes are overwhelmingly positive. Tourist dollars have improved health care and education, and fund food supplies when the harvest is bad. Having recruited Alex, an American refugee of the ﬁnancial crisis now based in Saigon, our trek begins with some grocery shopping in Luang Nam Tha’s wet market before continuing by pick-up truck to the Khmhu village of Ban Palang, about 30 kilometers to the southwest. Under the Lao model for sustainable trekking, villages located at the trailheads supply men to act as local guides. We start at the Khmhu village of Ban Palang, where all 43 households contribute guides on a rotating roster. Seng, our 50-something guide, ambles up and before long has loaded

decomposing leaves. This area is home to mammals as exotic and endangered as clouded leopard, tiger, gaur and elephant, but Bouakhet reckons our chances of seeing them are close to zero. Seng keeps a steady, almost metronomic pace and it’s not long before we are lathered in sweat. In the dry season this would not be a difficult climb. But now the trail is like a rustred ribbon of slippery mud. Every step requires intense concentration. Not that Seng and Bouakhet—both sporting only flip-flops—seem unduly troubled. We emerge from the jungle into an area of shoulder-high scrub. The air is fresher, but now we’re under direct sunlight. “They grow mountain rice here,” Bouakhet says of the villagers we are going to visit. “The harvest was about five months ago. A few months before that, all this was jungle.” It’s strange that, inside the borders of the protected area, slash-and-burn agriculture has scarred the forest like thousands of cigarette burns on a vast shag carpet. But this is the dichotomy of a national protected area, which differs from a national park in that people live within its borders. How do you preserve the environment when the people living there must destroy it to survive? In the 1990’s, Laos enshrined » 151

New Horizons Clockwise from top left: Some of the deforestation around Ban Nam Wang; what’s for breakfast is obvious; a local feast of buffalo, vegetables and rice that is more delicious than you might expect; scanning the horizon en route to a hilltop unknown to outsiders.

almost 14 percent of its most stunning landscapes into what are now called “national protected areas” making it one of the most safeguarded countries on earth. The move gave legal protection to chunks of an environment that, thanks to 30 years of war and self-imposed isolation, had largely avoided the damage done elsewhere by commercial timber and industrial rubber plantations. For the villagers of Ban Nam Wang, our destination, their ﬁelds will not be used again for several years. With the forest cut and burned, mountain rice grows well in the rich soil. But after just a single harvest, the topsoil erodes. It is anything but sustainable. Yet when we arrive, we ﬁnd Ban Nam Wang is one of those increasingly rare places truly “beyond Coke.” Set on a mountaintop scraped bare of trees, there is not even the most basic shop, little in the way of plastic waste and the village’s 16 homes are built completely without nails. The bare, packed red earth gives an impression of impermanence. The bemused but obliging Ja Paw says the Lahu like to live high and keep their villages clear of foliage to keep mosquitoes at bay. It seems to work. With nothing to block the view, the vista of endless forested hills is breathtaking. 152

OOD AND EVIL SPIRITS ARE EVERYWHERE. IN

houses, livestock and the surrounding forest. The few thousand Lahu who have migrated to Laos from southern China practice a distinct form of spirit worship, unlike the Lahu in Thailand and Burma who have largely converted to Christianity. With this in mind, we set off to explore the village. There’s a well but no running water. Aside from unkempt bamboo and palm-thatch homes, the only other structures are several tiny, stilted bamboo huts that remind me of chicken coops. Three teenage girls are busy adding to the hut tally, working with bamboo poles and machetes to construct more. They are shy, but warm up to our digital cameras. They’re natural when it comes to posing, but their shyness creeps back once they see the results. The women are erecting their own homes. According to Lahu tradition, the teenagers have come of age. Building their own tiny huts is the ﬁrst step in leaving home. Later, Ja Paw explains, with timely and animated interjections from his wife, that the women will use their homes to size up potential husbands. Looking at these love shacks, barely large enough for two to lie side by side, I can’t imagine the fellows just dropping in for tea and biscuits.

Ja Paw speaks about sex in the same matter-of-fact tone he’d use to ask for another bowl of rice. There are no rules governing what the women and their suitors can get up to inside their bamboo walls, he tells me. Given contraceptives seem to be at a premium in Ban Nam Wang—Ja Paw is 65 and the youngest of his 11 children, a dopey-looking three-year-old, is sitting beside his father as he speaks—I speculate that the chance of unplanned pregnancy is high. “Oh yes that happens,” Ja Paw says dismissively as others in the room study their feet. “The man’s family pays the woman’s family 500,000 kip (about US$60), and it is ﬁxed.” Not everyone seems convinced. Like almost everything else we do during our visit, preparing dinner turns into a spectator sport. As a dozen or so people sit watching in Ja Paw’s home, Bouakhet and Seng dissect a hunk of buffalo, that is served with eggplant, chili and other vegetables by candlelight. The results won’t win any culinary awards, but there’s enough food for a feast and Ja Paw’s family enjoy an unexpected meal of meat. By 9 P.M. Alex and I are side-by-side on a bamboo bed in a corner of Ja Paw’s home. Despite a midnight fracas involving a squealing pig and a growling dog, I sleep surprisingly well. Crowing cocks announce a peaceful dawn, low clouds settling into the surrounding valleys. After our chicken soup breakfast, Bouakhet sits down with Ja Paw and other village elders to discuss whether they want their village to become a regular destination for foreign trekkers. I’m unsure about introducing tourism to somewhere so removed from the modern world. But as Bouakhet, who has been involved in trekking here since it began, outlines how the Lao trekking model works it’s easier to see the upside. It’s important that everyone involved knows what to expect. The village is paid a set fee for each service they supply—lodgings, food and guides. In many of the 50 other communities already hosting trekkers, the village pools its money for use in microﬁnance-style loans. Ja Paw offers measured nods of agreement. But it’s not until Bouakhet actually hands over the money—an amount that’s a small fortune in a virtually cashless place like this—that Ja Paw sneaks a smile. Then the tone changes. “Can you bring one of those people with blond hair?” he asks. Bouakhet says that will likely happen: “Maybe a woman with blond hair.” Ja Paw’s grin grows. “Yes, I would like that a lot.” No one knows what the future will hold for Ban Nam Wang, though it is inevitable that sooner or later it will have greater contact with the outside world. In this case, the villagers welcomed us, we didn’t upset anyone or any spirits, and the money we paid Ja Paw is enough to cover the school fees of several children for a year. With Bouakhet and the Lao trekking program as a foundation, they’re off to a good start. But there’s one nagging concern. Before we begin the slippery but mercifully downhill return, I acknowledge that I’ve asked a lot of questions of Ja Paw. Does he have any of his own? “We have many questions,” he says, “but we are too shy to ask. Maybe next time.”

GUIDE TO TREKKING IN LAOS WHEN TO GO The dry season between November and February is also the high season, with good reason. Daytime temperatures are cool, with nights positively cold, and the drier conditions make the trails more enjoyable. T+L TIP In the high season, with more people looking for guides, per person trekking costs are usually lower. GETTING THERE Lao Airlines (laoairlines.com) ﬂies between Vientiane and Luang Nam Tha. Fly to Luang Prabang and continue to Luang Nam Tha by road, a six- to eight-hour journey. Alternatively, the new sealed road between China and Thailand means you can reach Luang Nam Tha from Chiang Rai in about six or seven hours, including border formalities. WHERE TO STAY Most treks start and end in Luang Nam Tha where there are several simple but clean and comfortable guesthouses for less than US$10 a night and a couple of more upmarket affairs. The Boat Landing Luang Nam Tha’s original and best accommodation, this eco-friendly lodge offers quiet, comfortable bungalows on the riverside 7 kilometers from the town center. The local food is fresh and delicious. 856-86/312-398; theboatlanding.laopdr.com; rooms from US$45. Zuela Guesthouse Among the best of the many guesthouses in town, Zuela is set back from the main street in the center of town. 856-86/312-183; rooms from US$6. WHAT TO DO There are a total of eight trekking companies in Luang Nam Tha, all operating different routes. Per person prices depend on numbers, with groups limited to a maximum of eight people. Prices depend on the route, but a standard two-day trek will follow a sliding scale from about US$160 for one person to US$50 per person in a group of eight. Jungle Eco-guide Services This small company offers fewer routes but highly capable guides. 856-86/212-025 or 856-20/578-6964; jungletours@gmail.com. Green Discovery Laos This established company has a wide range of treks and well-regarded guides. Road No. 3; 856-86/ 211-484; greendiscoverylaos.com. Luang Namtha Guide Service Unit Run by the province, this is the ﬁrst and least expensive trek operator. Luang Namtha Night Market, Road No. 3, 856-86/211-534; ecotourismlaos.com.

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(My Favorite Place) Durbar Square in Bhaktapur. Below: Lek Bunnag.

NEPAL

HAKTAPUR IS AN ANCIENT CITY THAT’S EAST OF

Kathmandu. What I like about it is that its center is composed of beautiful forms, and the way it’s composed is unmistakably Eastern—no city square in the world comes close to such beauty. One of the things that makes it beautiful is the way it corresponds to an east–west orientation. When you enter in the morning, the sun is in front of you and the monuments cast beautiful shadows. Bhaktapur is a UNESCO World Heritage site so it’s kept very well. Its beauty derives from how all these ancient urban elements were built at different times, and how with each element, they recognize the past. It’s very Eastern—the next generation giving the previous one love and respect by extending the past to the present. The way it’s done is beautiful. And it’s not a museum. It’s an urban space that still works every day.

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DE CE M B E R 2 0 0 9| T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M

I usually prefer visiting at night or when the sun rises. At that time, you see a lot of people walking to work. When it comes to places, the most important thing is its meaning. In the West, we do not want to go far beyond things. What I mean is that we don’t use the word spiritual anymore. We use the word psychology—it all comes from Freud and Jung. In the East, we go far—deep into the spirituality of life, through meditation, kindness, compassion. I love architecture that comes from that. I appreciate the beauty of forms, which is something the West has contributed. But in the East, it’s about serenity, tranquility—that which leads us to a meditative mood. In Hinduism, Islam, Buddhism, it’s all the same. We might not use the same word, but the meaning is the same. I try to make architecture that leads us to serenity. And serenity itself is the secret to beauty. ✚

CO U RT ESY O F L E K B U N N AG ( 2 )

Lek Bunnag, the architect behind Krabi’s new Ritz-Carlton Reserve, ﬁnds inspiration in ancient Bhaktapur. He tells JENNIFER CHEN why