BANGKOK+ HANOI ESSE N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S • VO L U M E F O U R
BANGKOK | INTRODUCTION
SERENITY AND PROGRESS
Bangkok (meaning, by one interpretation, ‘City of Wild Plums’), with its population of around 8 million souls, is by far the largest city in Thailand. Nearly one in six Thais now live in the Bangkok area, and the city accounts for, by some estimates, over 40 per cent of the Thailand’s GDP. This rapidly growing city (the population has increased nearly ten fold since World War II) has a burgeoning reputation in finance and business, partly as result of the Asian investment boom. However, it also has a wealth of history and culture, proudly free from colonial grasp. In 1732, after the overthrow of King Taksin, who ruled from Thonburi on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River, Rama I (the first of the House of Chakri) moved the capital to the east bank, carving out an artificial island called Rattanakosin, with the exquisite Grand Palace at its centre. Rattonnoksin is still the focus of the nation’s political and religious life, and it was from here that modern Bangkok was formed. During the zenith of European colonialism, Bangkok and most of the country remained outside colonial design, as the government managed Thailand (or Siam) as a buffer state between the French and British. A bloodless revolution in 1932 established constitutional monarchy, and since then Thailand has had numerous constitutions, swinging from military to democratic rule, but with the King always venerated as head of state. The last coup in 2006 overthrew premier Thaksin Shinawatra. Despite these political machinations, Bangkok takes all in its stride ( jai yen). It is known for its welcoming and friendly atmosphere, where sanuk (fun) is important in life.
BA N G K OK HAS A W E A LT H O F HISTORY A N D C U LTURE, P RO U D LY F REE FROM C O L O N I A L GRASP.
JAI YEN
All images: Dreamstime
Much can be written about the Thailand as the ‘Land of Smiles’, a happy-go-lucky paradise. However, beyond the glib generalities, the notion of ‘jai yen’ (‘cool heart’) does have considerable cultural importance, linked to Buddhism (94 per cent of Thais are Buddhists), and involves, on a basic level, keeping your cool. Resort to anger and needless conflict is frowned upon. A motorcycle accident is unlikely to result in a shouting match, fist fight, or a court case, but rather, conciliation. To Western eyes, this calmness may seem rather blasé, as confrontation and showing anger or displeasure is routine to many in the West. However, avoiding needless anger, having a calm, measured approach to everyday life, or not getting worked up about things beyond your control, are important aspects of Thai culture. Try using these principles in Bangkok, and you will surely be a happier person.
BANGKOK | GUIDE
EATING Bed Supperclub 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11. Tel: 02 651 3537 In ten years this restaurant has turned itself into a hip institution, with its futuristic design, and patrons relaxing on beds. If you want to feel like you’re on the set of Stanley Kubrick’s 2001 Space Odyssey, while eating fine food and listening to good DJs, this is the place to be. Tuba 34 Room 11-12A Soi Ekkamai 21, Sukhumvit 63. Tel: 2711 5500 This charming Italian and Thai restaurant and bar is an antique shop during the day, and full of lovely old relics, ancient furniture, and art. It’s a rustic, cluttered affair, with a warm, beguiling atmosphere. Philippe 15-17, Sukhumvit Soi 39. Tel: 259 4577-8 Renowned French chef Philippe Peretti, originally from Corsica, owns
this elegant restaurant that serves the best in French country fare. It is one of the best French eateries in Bangkok. SHOPPING Sukhumvit Road is packed with myriad malls, department stores, small shops, and stalls, offering anything from massages, haircuts, souvenirs, to cutting edge fashion, design, and upscale dining. The massive Emporium mall is here (seven floors of luxury fashion)just one of numerous shopping malls in Bangkok, including Central Chidlom and MBK. The largest, CentralWorld, on Ratchadamri Road, even eclipses nearby rival Siam Paragon in size. Meanwhile Thonglor in Watthana is full of design boutiques: clothing, appliances, and interior décor. This area includes the modernist H1 Urban Complex, with its glass floor to ceiling windows and chic boutiques, eateries, and life-
style stores, including Geo (912/3 Sukhumvit 55, Klongton Nua, Wattana; Tel 2381 4324). Meanwhile, the River City shopping complex (off Charoen Krung Road) may look nondescript, but its 200 shops are a main centre of the trade in art, hand-woven Thai silk and cotton, leather goods, antiques, jewellery, gems, and handicrafts, and there are regular auctions at the Riverside Auction House. Bangkok also has numerous street markets, including the sprawling Chatuchak Market, and Suan Lum Night Bazaar (opposite Lumphini Park). NIGHTLIFE Brown Sugar 231/20 Sarasin Road. Tel: 2250 0103 Opposite Lumphini Park, this is a great spot for live, creative jazz and blues, with good food and drinks. This friendly venue has, over many years, developed a good reputation among local musicians.
Previous page: Golden Buddha at Wat Pho Temple; Wat Phra Kaew This page: Chao Phraya River; Democracy monument; Bed Supperclub; Wat Arun
Tapas Room 114/17-18 Silom Road. Tel: 2234 4737 This well regarded mainstay of Bangkok nightlife has a mixed, diverse crowd across three floors of varied music, and a rooftop. Bacchus 20/6-7 Ruam Rudee Village, Soi Ruam Rudee, Sukhumvit. Tel: 2650 8986 One of the first wine bars in Bangkok. It boasts 400 varieties of wine and superb surroundings, across four sumptuous floors of lounges and dining. ART AND ARCHITECTURE Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew Entrance at Thanon Na Phra Lan. Tel: 2623 5500 This walled compound is one of the most revered areas in Thailand. The ornate Grand Palace, in a mixture of styles (traditional Thai and Chinese architecture, with European influences), is ceremo-
nial, as the royal family have moved to Chitralada Palace. The interiors are inaccessible, but take a stroll around the buildings which include the French inspired Borombhiman Hall, the Chakri Maha Prasat (Main Palace Hall), and also Dusit Maha Prasat (Dusit Hall), a prime example of traditional Thai architecture. Meanwhile, in the northeast corner, Wat Phra Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, includes a Phra Mondop (Library of Buddhist Scriptures), Prasat Phra Thep Bidom (Royal Pantheon), which is only open on Chakri Day (6 April), and Ho Phra Nak (Royal Mausoleum). The most sacred structure here is the Bot of the Emerald Buddha, where the highly revered Emerald Buddha is displayed. Wat Pho Thanon Thai Wang Wat Pho is Bangkok’s oldest temple, dating back to the 16th century, and home of the giant
15m high reclining Buddha. The walls are inscribed with wisdom and history; the temple was one of the earliest places of public learning in Thailand. Jim Thompson’s House 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Road. Tel: 216 7368 Jim Thompson, an American, worked in military intelligence and was posted to Thailand at the end of World War II. He then settled in the country, reviving the Thai silk industry (his silk company still exists today). Thompson mysteriously disappeared in Malaysia in 1967, but one of his legacies is a beautiful residence in Bangkok made from old buildings brought to the area: one of the best examples of traditional Thai architecture in the city. Inside there is Thompson’s extensive collection of Thai artefacts and furniture, an art gallery, and a silk shop.
HANOI | INTRODUCTION
CITY OF HEROES
Hanoi, meaning ‘between rivers’ (the name given to the city by Nguyen emperor Minh Mang in 1831), marked one thousand years of existence in 2010: a past of remarkable resilience. Throughout Hanoi’s long history, the city has overcome much adversity, including invasion, occupation, famine, and war. French intervention in Vietnam, Cambodia, and then the eastern edges of Siam (Thailand), eventually led, in 1887, to the creation of French Indochina (Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos), with Hanoi as its capital. Later, during World War II, the Japanese intervened in Vietnam and eventually, amid widespread famine and chaos, attempted to establish the country as a Japanese protectorate. After Japan’s defeat in 1945, France fought to keep control of Indochina until the 1954 Geneva Agreements which ended French rule and split Vietnam into north and south. However, this only laid the foundations for the Vietnam War: South Vietnam refused to accept the agreements and the U.S., at the height of anti-communist fervour, supported them. The ensuing conflict involved untold suffering for the Vietnamese people, but also ultimate victory. Hanoi, now Vietnam’s second city, with a rapidly expanding population of around 6.5 million, is the country’s centre of administration, education, and science. Hanoi is steeped in the culture (and scars) of its dynastic and colonial past: it has been the capital of a colonial federation, as well as of an older kingdom. Such a remarkable history, coupled with today’s rapid change and development, means that the city, as one writer has noted, is “addictive”. Hanoi feels like a place where almost anything can happen.
FRENCH QUARTER The French Quarter, to the south of Hoan Kien Lake, dates back to the Indochina era, and is full of French colonial architecture and wide tree-lined boulevards, including St Joseph’s Cathedral (like a small version of Notre Dame), on Nha Tho Street. Other interesting spots include the notorious Hoa Lo Prison of John McCain fame (his flightsuit is now displayed in the museum). By way of contrast, Quan Su Pagoda in Quan Su Street dates back to the 15th century and is very active. It is the headquartes of the Vietnam Unified Buddhist Assocation and monks live on the grounds. It also houses Vietnam’s largest Buddhist library. Overall, the exquisite French Quarter boasts a plethora of intriguing galleries, cafes, markets, and villas.
THE CITY HAS OV E RC O M E I N VA S I O N, O C C U PAT I O N , FA M I N E , A N D WA R
HANOI | GUIDE
Previous page: Tortoise Tower on Hoan Kiem lake; Tran Quoc Pagoda This page: summer rolls; St Joseph’s Cathedral; Temple of Literature; sunset over Halong Bay
EATING Green Tangerine 48 Hang Be Street, Hoan Kiem District. Tel: 3825 1286 This is a truly enchanting restaurant in the Old Quarter, serving French food with a Vietnamese influence. The lovingly restored old French villa is idyllic, and there is plenty of greenery both inside and in the relaxing courtyard. La Badiane 10 Nam Ngu. Tel: 3942 4509 La Badiane (the French for ‘star anise’), recently opened by Benjamin Rascalou (a renowned local French chef), serves high class French food. The setting is a charming colonial villa with individual dining rooms. Old Hanoi 4 Ton That Thiep Street. Tel: 3747 8337 When Gordon Ramsay visited Hanoi, he offered to open this
excellent Vietnamese restaurant, and did a cook-off here. ‘Ramsay’s Ribs’ are a now a favourite. SHOPPING Fans of giant, glitzy shopping malls will be disappointed by Hanoi, although you could try Vincom City Towers at 191 Ba Trieu Street, which includes a cinema. Hanoi has its own distinctive shopping culture, seen in the Old Quarter, and Dong Xuan Market. Silk and embroidery are popular in Hanoi: visit Khai Silk (96 Pho Hang Gai; Tel: 3825 4237), or La Boutique and the Silk (6 Pho Nha Tho. Tel: 3928 5368). Hang Gai Street, on the edge of the Old Quarter, is a famous, vibrant cluster of embroidery, silk, and tailor shops (have a look out for Tan My, for example). There are also numerous craft villages just outside Hanoi, such as Van Phuc wih its tradition of producing silk going back centuries, and now with outlets within the
village itself. Other villages include Chuong Village (conical hats), Vac Village (birdcages), and Quat Dong (embroidery). Meanwhile, home décor and interior design shops are clustered around St Joseph’s Cathedral. Check out Mosaique (22 Nha Tho Street; Tel 3928 6181), Dome (71-B6 Hang Trong Street; Tel: 3928 7677), among many others. For antiques, curios, and objets d’art, Hanoi is an adventure, although always be wary of very good reproductions, and also customs requirements as you leave the country. Vietnamese House (92 Hang Bac St; Tel: 3826-2455) is a good place to start. NIGHTLIFE Hanoi is no place for party ravers as it is pretty sleepy from around 11.30pm (partly because of curfews), athough you will find a few places open into the small hours. Relatively recently, bia hoi
have sprung up: fresh beer on the street, including chains such as Bia Anchor. Minh’s Jazz Club 31 Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 7890 Founded by Quyen Van Minh (who plays there), this jazz club in the Old Quarter is a much loved institution. The music starts at 9pm. Ibox Bar and Cafe 32 Le Thai To. Tel: 3828-8820 This salubrious, retro styled bar near Hoan Kiem Lake has a good selection of drinks and a relaxed atmosphere, with regular live music. Le Pub 25 Hang Be St. Tel: 3926 2104 This well regarded, friendly bar is a good meeting place in the Old Quarter, with decent pub fare on offer too. Le Pub has another outlet in Hanoi (Tay Ho), and one in Ho Chi Minh City.
Polite Pub 5 Bao Khanh Street Tel: 3825 0959 This British style pub near Hoan Kiem Lake is a popular and long established homely affair with sports on TV. Take a walk around the immediate vicinity to discover many other friendly bars and pubs. ART AND ARCHITECTURE Old Quarter To the north of Hoan Kien Lake, this is oldest area of the city, dating back two millennia. It has a strong artisan and craft history, and this work continues today. The narrow ‘tube houses’ are a legacy of when residents were taxed according to the width of storefronts. There are many temples, art galleries, and craft shops in the area, as well as cafés, such as Cha Ca La Vong on Cha Ca Street, open since 1871 (Cha Ca is a Vietnamese fish dish). Also visit the thousand year old Eastern Gate Pagoda on Haung
Dong Street, and the Ho Chi Minh Memorial House at Hang Ngang where Vietnam’s Declaration of Independence was written. Presidential Palace and Ba Dinh In Ba Dinh stands the magnificent Presidential Palace, originally built by the French for the Governor-General (and closed to the public). This beautiful architecture contrasts with the Soviet styled Ho Chi Minh mausoleum. Take a stroll around Ba Dinh Square where Ho Chi Minh read Vietnam’s Declaration of Independence in 1945. Meanwhile, nearby, in the beautiful Botanical Gardens is the Ho Chi Minh Museum (opened in 1990) and the One Pillar Pagoda (rebuilt in the 1950s after retreating French forces destroyed the ancient original). The beautifully preserved Stilt House in the centre of the gardens is where Ho Chi Minh spent the last 11 years of his life.
BANGKOK | CONCIERGE
ASK THE CONCIERGE Our Bangkok concierge shares inside knowledge of this dynamic city. BEST RESTAURANTS Mango Tree on Surawongse Road in busy Bangrak is a relaxing tropical al fresco restaurant, offering some of the freshest Thai food. Meanwhile, Baan Klang Nam in Yannawa, set in a romantic clapboard house right on the Chao Phraya River, is all about seafood. SPAS AND SALONS Thailand is a premier location for massage and wellness spas. Traditional Thai massage has roots in Indian yoga philosophy, and heat and herbal treatments are important in traditional Thai healing. Try Divana Spa on Sukhumviti Road (with other branches around the area), for a range of excellent traditional Thai treatments. NIGHTLIFE Thanon Silom, Thanon Ratchadaphisek, and Royal City Avenue (RCA) are the city’s official nightlife zones where some bars stay open to 2am. These areas are packed with hip bars and clubs. Try Q Bar or Zantika in Sukhumvit Road, among many more. SHOPPING Siam Paragon, on Rama I Road in Pathum Wan, has numerous upscale stores, boutiques and restaurants, as well as the Siam Ocean World aquarium, a large multiplex movie theatre, bowling alley, art gallery, among other attractions. The Siam Center and Siam Discovery Center, CentralWorld, and Gaysorn are all nearby. The 3rd floor of Gaysorn focuses on home décor, such as Cocoon that offers modern interpretations of traditional Thai and Asian items.
Millennium Hilton Bangkok concierges: Anan Sangsophon (left) and Sirinun Padunchai
MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES Ayutthaya Historic Park, at the site of the old capital, 85km north of Bangkok, is well worth a visit. This UNESCO World Heritage site explores the ruins of the old city and palace, and much of the history of the old kingdom. There are many museums in the park. Meanwhile, for contemporary art (Thai and international) visit the Chulalongkorn Art Centre at Chulalongkorn University, or 100 Tonson Gallery at 100 Sio Tonson (Thanon Ploenchit). The National Museum in central Bangkok (near Sanam Luang) covers Thai history in a beautiful historical building, Wang Na, previously a royal palace. GETTING AROUND Khaosan Road in Phra Nakhon is now a traveller haven, catering for backpackers, and coaches leave
here for destinations across Thailand. Sample eclectic backpacker culture here, in a unique cosmopolitan atmosphere, and there are numerous small, relaxed eateries. Meanwhile, Lumphini Park is Bangkok’s best known public park, but there are several other green lungs, such as Benjakitti Park, south of Sukhumvit Soi 21, featuring large fountains and water displays, or Saranrom Park across the road from the Grand Palace, which was a private royal garden. HIDDEN GEMS Kukrit Pramoj was a well respected Thai politician, statesman, and scholar, who was briefly prime minister in the mid 1970s. Today, his exquisite teak residence on South Sathom Road is a heritage museum, and a fine example of a traditional Thai home.
HANOI | CONCIERGE
ASK THE CONCIERGE Our concierge in Hanoi shares valuable tips on this intriguing and absorbing city. BEST RESTAURANTS Anh Tuyet Restaurant in Ma May Street in the Old Quarter is a well loved Vietnamese eatery where cooking lessons are also available. It is an absorbing experience in Vietnamese food culture. Meanwhile, Wild Lotus on Nguyen Du Street, set in a plush villa, serves exquisite Vietnamese and fusion food. SPAS AND SALONS There are many spas in Vietnam, but it is wise to make sure of a genuine healing experience. Zen Spa in Tay Ho, ten minutes from the centre of Hanoi, is the real thing. The QT Anam spa on Le Thai To Street in Hoan Kiem also has a good reputation.
NIGHTLIFE Funky Buddha on Ta Hien Street and Studio on Ma May (both in Hoan Kien), are good options for a spot of late night drinking. Ta Hien Hanoi’s ‘bia hoi street’, packed with beer and backpackers, so soak in the atmosphere. SHOPPING The intriguing Old Quarter is good to explore without a strict itinerary. Its lanes are associated with the business located there, such as Hang Be (lacquerware), Hang Bac (jewellery), Lan Ong (traditional medicine), Hang Dao (watches), Nha Tho (fashion and gifts), Trang Tien (art and books), and Bao Khanh (coffee shops). Meanwhile, Craft Link on Van Mieu Street helps the many ethnic minorities of Vietnam maintain their craft traditions, and offers a wide range items. MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES Excellent museums and galleries include the Vietnam Fine Art Museum on Nguyen Thai Hoc Street, covering all periods of the fine arts in Vietnam. Nearby is the
almost ancient Confucian Temple of Literature, a series of ornate cortyards and gardens and the site of Vietnam’s first university. Meanwhile National Museum of Vietnamese History in Hoan Kiem and theis also well worth a visit. GETTING AROUND Hanoi, built on lowland between rivers, has numerous lakes that form idylic spots in the city. Hoan Kiem Lake, near the Old Quarter and French Quarter is popular, and West Lake (Ho Tay) is Hanoi’s largest and most scenic, with its numerous pagodas and temples. The tiny Huu Tiep lake in Ba Ninh has the half submerged wreckage of an American B52 bomber in it, left where it fell. HIDDEN GEMS Not so much hidden, perhaps, but Halong Bay (102 miles eat of Hanoi) is one of the most exquisite gems in Asia. Cruise by boat around this beautiful World Heritage Site. Tour operators arrange boat trips from Halong City, but make sure you use a reputable company.
Staff at Hilton Hanoi Opera (from left to right): Tran Minh Thu, Nguyen Huu Tuan, Dao Duy Cuong, Nguyen Thanh Tung, Nguyen Van Hiep, Nguyen Cong Loc
BANGKOK | HOTELS
01 02 03 04 05
1
2
4
5
HILTON IN BANGKOK Spectacularly located on the Chao Phraya River, Millennium Hilton Bangkok offers stunning views of the river and Bangkok skyline from each room. This majestic landmark features a cutting-edge spa concept, an infinity pool with magnificent views, sensory experiences in every restuarant, state of the art business facilities, and an executive lounge. Millennium Hilton Bangkok is conveniently accessible and there is a free river boat service from its private pier to nearby attractions like the Grand Palace. Millennium Hilton Bangkok 123 Charoennakorn Road, Klongsan , Bangkok 10600, Thailand Tel: +66(0) 2442 2000
3
Millennium Hilton Bangkok The Spa-Massage Infinity Pool and Beach Deck Shuttle Boat Pier Executive Suite Night View
HANOI | HOTELS
1
HILTON IN HANOI
All images © Hilton Hotels
2
4
Hilton Hanoi Opera was named Best Business Hotel in Hanoi 2010 by Business Traveller magazine, and voted Vietnam’s Leading Hotel from 2004 to 2008 at the prestigious World Travel Awards. Situated in Hanoi’s elegant French Quarter, the hotel is just a short walk away from the Old Quarter and the city’s business district. This city landmark provides extensive business facilities and seven meeting rooms. Relax in traditionally furnished Vietnamese-style rooms and enjoy the outdoor pool with Opera House views.
3
01 Hilton Hanoi Opera 02 Vietnamese-style Deluxe King Room 03 Ba Mien restaurant 04 Outdoor pool
Hilton Hanoi Opera 1 Le Thanh Tong St, Hoan Kiem Dist, Hanoi Vietnam 10000 Tel: 84-4-39330500
HILTON HOTELS | LOCATION MAP
South Korea China Japan
India
Vietnam
Phillipines
Guam
Sri Lanka Thailand Malaysia
French Polynesia
Indonesia
Fiji
HILTON IN ASIA PACIFIC The most recognized name in the industry, Hilton Hotels stands as the stylish, forward thinking global leader of hospitality. Operating in more countries than any other full-service hotel brand, Hilton Hotels has 530 hotels and resorts in 76 countries, across six continents, including 47 properties in Asia Pacific.
Australia
New Zealand
HILTON IN SOUTHEAST ASIA
Hilton Phuket Arcadia Resort & Spa Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa Hilton Hanoi Opera Millennium Hilton Bangkok VIETNAM
PHILLIPINES
Hilton Pattaya* Hilton Cebu Resort & Spa THAILAND
Hilton Pataling Jaya
Hilton Kuala Lumpur
MALAYSIA
Hilton Singapore
Hilton Kuching Batang Ai Longhouse Resort
Explore the beauty and bustle of South and Southeast Asia with Hilton Hotels. With 17 hotels and resorts across nine countries in the region, the warmth of Hilton hospitality is available everywhere. From the buzz of Singapore and Malaysia, or the exotic locales of India and Sri Lanka, to the legendary world of the Maldives, Hilton is part of the discovery and excitement of South and Southeast Asia. hilton.com/asiapacific
Hilton Bandung
INDONESIA
OTHER HILTON HOTELS IN THE ASIA PACIFIC REGION AUSTRALASIA
CHINA
Australia Hilton Adelaide Hilton Brisbane Hilton Cairns Hilton Melbourne Airport Hilton Melbourne on the Park Hilton Melbourne South Wharf Parmelia Hilton Perth Hilton Surfers Paradise Residences* Hilton Sydney
Hilton Beijing Hilton Beijing Capital Airport* Hilton Beijing Wangfujing Hilton Chongqing Hilton Hefei Hilton Sanya Resort & Spa Hilton Shanghai Hilton Shanghai Hongqiao*
Fiji Fiji Beach Resort & Spa Managed by Hilton French Polynesia Hilton Bora Bora Nui Resort & Spa Hilton Moorea Lagoon Resort & Spa New Zealand Hilton Auckland Hilton Lake Taupo
JAPAN, KOREA & MICRONESIA Japan Hilton Fukuoka Sea Hawk Hilton Nagoya Hilton Niseko Village Hilton Odawara Resort & Spa Hilton Osaka Hilton Tokyo Hilton Tokyo Bay Hilton Tokyo Narita Airport
SOUTH ASIA India Hilton Chennai/ Guindy* Hilton New Delhi/Janakpuri Maldives Hilton Maldives/ Iru Fushi Resort & Spa Sri Lanka Hilton Colombo Hilton Colombo Residence
Korea Grand Hilton Seoul Hilton Gyeong-ju Hilton Namhae Golf & Spa Resort Millennium Hilton Seoul Micronesia Hilton Guam Resort & Spa
* Opening in 2010
IN COLLABORATION WITH