Beras Basah Island, East Kalimantan • Indonesia
You will always prefer the scenic route At some point in your life, you will feel that it is time to unwind. With your usual daily vast occurrences, remember to push the reset button. Stop for a second, let go of your worries. Reconnect with the earth and experience our way of relaxing. Be one with our nature, take your pick: endless mountains, infinite beaches, sparkling cities, or historical wonders. Don’t think twice. Because when everyone else is busy living, we celebrate life instead. www.indonesia.travel indonesia.travel @indtravel
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So Many Islands, So Little Time…
C h r i s t o p h e r k u c way
As one of the world’s most diverse nations, Indonesia has much to offer once you stop to tak e a closer look. Each region has its own charms—more than enough to lure whatever type of tr aveler you may be. With thousands of islands stretching across Asia, Indonesia is in the fortunate position of having something for everyone. The charms of Bali are what immediately spring to mind and, with everything that is going on there, it’s no surprise the island is still popular both for its traditions and its cutting-edge take on the future. Looking beyond the island, you’ll come across gems such as Lombok, which soars into the clouds from its beautiful coastline; and Raja Ampat, part of the “Coral Triangle” that now is recognized as one of the most beautiful destinations in Asia. If you’ve not heard of Banyuwangi, which is next to Bali, you should read up on it and visit. Further north, Makassar is becoming a favorite among tourists looking to get off the beaten path. While stunning scenery is always in abundance around Indonesia, its people—and their culture, food and ways of life—are really what stand out. Sunrise at Borobudur? You should add it to your bucket list. For its part, Medan is home to a diverse collection of ethnic groups and dining out on Padang-style food is a joy there. Need the rush of a big city? Then Jakarta simply cannot be beat. Nearby, Bandung offers fresh mountain air and an unexpected Art Deco puzzle along its city streets. Also close to the capital is the Riau Archipelago, a scattering of serene tropical islands. Now, visiting any of these stops in Indonesia has never been easier. The largest archipelago in the world has extended its visa-free facilities to no fewer than 169 countries and territories. All these travelers require is a passport valid for six months and a return ticket upon entry. The visa-free status is granted so that visitors can enjoy tourism, more specifically the arts, food and culture of Indonesia, and is valid for up to 30 days. Think of it as a ticket to explore one of the world’s most diverse and beautiful countries. For more specifics on that, simply turn the page.
The relaxing charm of Ubud.
Bali
Colorful Balinese festivals.
Explore the island’s wild side. Balinese banana pancakes.
Seminyak is where many head first—and then stay. Of course, there’s more to Bali than this Western-oriented party area, but that’s not to say that Seminyak doesn’t offer up some top-notch experiences. As well as smart new hotels and pumping beach clubs, while you’re in the area, head to the brand-new Seminyak Village shopping center, right behind Seminyak Square, for air-conditioned retail luxury and divine dining experiences. If secluded beach paradises are your thing, then visit the relatively undiscovered Nyang Nyang beach in Uluwatu—but be prepared to climb down a staircase to access it. Closer to Denpasar is the stunning Tanah Lot Temple: a picture-perfect island sanctuary that dates back to the 16th Century. Use Google maps, your hotel concierge or a reliable taxi service to get to either. Those of a spiritual bent will, of course, also want to head to Ubud where the bestselling novel—and subsequent movie—Eat, Pray, Love was set. Head to the well-signposted monkey forest for cheeky antics or to the maze-like central market areas. The whole island is dotted with hidden Hindu shrines, too, making it worth a cool early-morning wander— just dress and act respectfully in the temples. And after a few hours of spiritual awakenings, head to one of the many local eateries and try the famous Balinese banana pancakes or the deliciously indulgent babi guling (suckling pig).
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Anyone who’s been to Bali recently k nows how popular the island is. Now, boasting a spark ling new airport as well as vastly improved access to many areas, Bali is bursting with optimism and brimming with things to do and see.
Early morning calm.
The capital comes alive at night.
Jakarta
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Jak arta doesn’t top the must-visit lists of many clued-in travelers, but under governor Joko Widodo—now the country’s president— the city is much more tourist-friendly, although you really need to know where to go—and how to get there in time. A good place to start is the Bundaran HI area, in the center of the city and named after the famous roundabout (bundaran in Bahasa Indonesia). As well as five-star hotels, this area is also home to the city’s two poshest malls: Plaza Indonesia and Grand Indonesia. If you’re looking to browse for brand-name goods in air-conditioned malls, these are the places to head for. Use this area as a base, several of the hotels also feature rooftop bars and restaurants commanding stunning views of this sprawling city. Not too far away is the Pasar Tanah Abang market, one of the largest in Southeast Asia and a great place to snap up local textile bargains. It’s a great chance to mingle with the locals. Those seeking something more sedate should head to the nearby leafy suburb of Menteng and take in the neo-colonial architecture and laidback vibes for which the area is famous, including world-class hotels and eateries. Meanwhile, the more expat-oriented and sophisticated Kemang area plays host to diversions as diverse as pubs, art galleries and even a cat café— yes, a café full of cats. Smart travelers should use popular mobile apps as well as the many local (and reliable) taxi firms, some of which also have their own apps (minimum booking charges may apply). Always check with certainty that the driver knows your destination and the best traffic tip of all? Never travel during rush hours or on payday.
Shop at local markets.
Enjoy a cat café. The National Monument.
Riau Archipelago
It’s a testament to the diversity of Indonesia that this wonderful arr ay of islands is just a relatively short hop away from Jak arta. National flag carrier Garuda Indonesia and a slew of low-cost carriers can get you to the area in aN
Sultan Riau Mosque in Pulau Penyengat.
hour or two depending on exactly where you’re headed. Meanwhile, ferry services can whisk you from Singapore straight to Batam Island in an hour or so. While as good a starting point for exploration as any, Batam is somewhat bars-and-beer based—which is fine if that’s what you want. But travelers seeking a more relaxed getaway should head to Bintan and beyond, also accessible directly from Singapore. If you do take the ferry to Bintan, check to see if it stops near the southwest of the island: here you can find the serene Chinese Banyan Tree Temple, said to be more than 200 years old. For more serenity and solitude, we also recommend Rempang and Galang islands, which are connected by bridges to Batam and to each other. Melur Beach on Galang Island is fast earning a reputation as a picture-perfect tropical paradise—so get there early, before the crowds. That said, the area offers plenty of accommodation as well as several seafood restaurants. While there, try a spot of local island-hopping with Melur Beach as your starting point. Meanwhile, the tiny former island sultanate of Pulau Penyengat—just off the coast of Bintan and near the capital of Riau province, Tanjung Pinang—offers up a treasure trove of cultural and religious relics and temples that make it a worthwhile addition to any itinerary.
Golfing in Bintan.
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Balerang Bridge.
A break in Batam.
Breathtaking Wakatobi.
Raja Ampat+Wakatobi+ Bunaken One the most heart-achingly scenic spots
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you’ll ever visit, Raja Ampat comprises some 1,500 islands lying within the “Cor al Triangle,” the world’s most important marine biodiversity region. Here, superlatives abound. The area boasts 76
Scenic stays in Sawingrai.
Manado underwater.
Beautiful Raja Ampat.
percent of known coral species; has the highest diversity of reef fish; claims the world’s largest fish, the whale shark; is a habitat for the coelacanth, once thought to be extinct; and is home to six of the world’s seven marine turtle species. Raja Ampat is located just off the northwest coast of New Guinea, you’ll need to fly to the city of Sorong first, head to the ferry harbor and then onwards to Waisai on the island of Waigeo. We recommend a luxury live aboard diving trip for the full experience—a seven-day stay on a traditional phinisi schooner is just the ticket. Travelers seeking equally breathtaking trips can also head to the Wakatobi islands in Southeast Sulawesi, also within the Coral Triangle. Start with Wangi-Wangi Island, home to Matahora Airport, known as the gateway to Wakatobi. Flights arrive here regularly from Makassar. While on Wangi-Wangi, check out local cultural treasures like its impressive colonial-era lighthouse. Bunaken in North Sulawesi also presents fantastic marine flora and fauna, as well as picture-perfect islands. Boat trips via the city of Manado will get you there in less than an hour, with private boat charters also available. A stay in Bunaken may lead to close encounters with dugongs, barracuda, tuna and even saltwater crocodiles.
Yogyakarta+Solo+ Semarang Borobudur.
Kali Biru, Yogyakarta. Candi Prambanan.
several low-cost carriers also offer flights directly from Singapore and Kuala Lumpur. Meanwhile, there’s a profusion of top-end places to stay, most of which are excellent starting points from which to explore the city’s famous Javanese fine arts, including ballet, drama, music and puppetry. At Yogya’s spiritual center is Taman Sari, or the “Water Castle” park. Here, cultural relics sit within stone pavilions and water pools, reflecting Javanese, Hindu, European and Javanese influences. For even more historical relics, head to the huge Candi Prambanan temple, and, of course, to Borobudur, both of which are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The latter, the world’s largest Buddhist temple, comprises nine platforms, more than 2,500 relief displays, and more than 500 images of Buddha. Combining the two temples in one day is a challenge, though—you might prefer to catch a spectacular sunrise over Borobudur by staying in a nearby luxury hotel. Speaking of challenges, the area is also home to Indonesia’s most active volcano, Mt. Merapi, which once destroyed an entire civilization—the Hindu Mataram kingdom. Check online first as to its current status and for a list of tour guides. Insider tip: aim to be there for a stunning sunrise juxtaposed with the swirling volcanic caldera below. Mt. Merapi looms large over Yogyakarta as it does over the city of Solo, which lies around 60 kilometers east of Yogya. While there, enjoy a traditional mandi luhur spice massage and snap up a piece of the local batik. Further afield—one hundred kilometers north, in fact—is Semarang, the capital city of Central Java. This modern metropolis is even more off the beaten track than Solo when it comes to tourism and proudly possesses unique charms. Most notably, in the northern part of the city, an area known as Kota Lama features exquisite Dutch colonial buildings that contrast sharply with the Javanese heart of this wonderfully welcoming city.
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Yogyak arta offers something for everyone and should be on any Indonesian tourism buck et list. Easily accessible by air from most cities in the country,
Spiritual center Taman Sari.
Samalona Island.
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Makassar
A while back, if you mentioned the university city of Mak assar to all but the most well-tr aveled you’d be met with blank stares. Not so now. This bustling port (served by both international airlines and low-cost carriers) is fast becoming a tourism favorite, acting as a gateway to other eastern areas of the Indonesian archipelago and to the island of South Sulawesi, on which it sits. Makassar boasts a fascinating history—far too much to go into detail here. But one of the most significant historical facts is that this seaport was a major global trading city in Asia due to its proximity to the Spice Islands of Maluku. Because of this history, Makassar is one of the most multicultural centers in Indonesia and reminder of its maritime heritage is the Pelabuhan Paotere harbor, 4 kilometers north of the city center and one of the few remaining places where working phinisi are evident. The harbor itself is worth a look—a few streets away is one of Indonesia’s largest fish markets; hang around there in the early-morning hours and you’re sure to see huge tuna being hauled in along with pretty much every other edible marine creature you could imagine. The city is also famous for its food—try coto makassar, a rich stew made from nuts, spices and offal, and konro rib soup, both of which are usually eaten with glutinous rice. Dessertwise, the sweet of tooth should most definitely seek out pisang epe, pressed bananas, grilled and covered with gooey palm sugar sauce, or their close cousin, pisang ijo: green bananas covered in flour, milk and syrup. The best place to head for these are the street vendors in the Losari Beach area, which happens to be one of the best places to stay. Meanwhile, if you want to escape the bustling pace of the city, take a quick trip to nearby Samalona Island for some sensational wreck diving and snorkeling that reflect the city’s turbulent past.
Phinisi at sea.
Ujung Pandang.
A bowl of coto makassar.
Medan
Ambarita, Batak style houses.
Air Terjun Sipiso-Piso.
Getting to Medan is easy; in fact, you can fly there directly from Kuala Lumpur, Singapore and even Penang thanks to a number of international airlines and low-cost alternatives. Of course, it’s also accessible from within Indonesia and is a perfect spot from which to visit Lake Toba, one of the world’s largest freshwater lakes. Once in Medan, you’ll be spoiled for choice when it comes to places to stay. The center of town boasts several luxury hotels which themselves offer access to many must-visit Medan attractions such as the Tjong A Fie Mansion, a distant cousin of the famous Cheong Fatt Tze “blue” Mansion in Penang. This Peranakan structure once housed one of Medan’s most notable residents, honored several times by Dutch colonialists. Culture vultures will also enjoy the nearby tranquil temple of Maha Vihara Maitreya Cemara Asri. Amid the impressive settings, Buddhist monks carry out their daily mindful meanderings, while the mosque at Jalan Masjid Raya—also still in daily use—is another feat of amazing architecture. For a change of pace, head for some retail therapy at the Sun Plaza shopping mall. No write-up about Medan would be complete without mentioning food. Given its heritage and diversity, the range of treats on offer is vast. The street food is heavenly, with some of the best found on Jalan Selat Panjang. A word of warning, though: the Padang-style food here, particularly the nasi padang, can burn. Learn how to ask for it to be less spicy, or get used to it.
Nasi Padang.
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Medan is the capital of North Sumatr a, the largest city outside of Java, and, lik e much of Indonesia, jam-pack ed with things to see and do, all of which reflect a rich cultur al heritage and the collection of diverse ethnic groups now resident there.
A sweep of Lake Toba.
Scenic Senggigi.
Lombok
Lombok is one of Indonesia’s man y treasures hidden in plain sight. It’s close enough to Bali to mak e it a quick trip from the Island of the Gods. Try a white-k nuck le speedboat ride, many of which also offer trips to the nearby superb Gili Islands.
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Mt. Rinjani.
Batu Payung.
Gili islands.
Lombok is also a final destination in its own right, one that presents a more laidback pace of life than Bali and fewer tourists, although numbers are swelling. Many will head to the popular honeypot of Senggigi, well known for its beautiful west-facing beaches. The town itself offers up vibrant nightlife and entertainment, but travelers should also be aware that much of the Senggigi area is also under-developed. A plus point but take care when booking a hotel. Many choose to base themselves in Senggigi and balance out the low-key hedonism with day trips to the nearby waterfalls and villages. We also recommend taking time out to explore the Pura Batu Bolong temple, a short trip away. This Hindu temple is one of the most enchanting beauty spots on the island, best enjoyed at sunset, comprising pagodas that sprawl and tumble down a lengthy cliff towards the sea. Sekotong, to the southwest, boasts white-sand beaches and world-class diving, while Kuta is popular with surfers. For those who prefer peaks to troughs, a visit to the 3,000-meter Mt. Rinjani in the protected Gunung Rinjani National Park is a must. The nearby Gili Islands, with Gili Trawangan the most popular, are worth a mention. Here, motorized vehicles are not allowed and the superb beaches and sprawling bars make them a popular hippy hangout. That said, the islands do boast some reasonably upscale and family-friendly accommodation options and activities.
Bandung
Gedung Sate, Bandung tour on Bus. Situ Patenggang.
The arts on Braga Street.
If you follow the usual caveats—travel during off-peak times, avoiding weekends, paydays and public holidays—you’ll be there in a zippy 90-minute road trip on a modern highway. You can use taxi or ride services to get there, hire a car, or use one of the many tour services found online. Or you might prefer to take the train, which immerses you in the peaks and valleys, and which takes a leisurely three hours or so. Tickets are available from stations in Jakarta and can also be bought online. For stays, there is a range of accommodation options including five-star hotels, one of which is attached to a huge (and worth a visit) theme park. No trip to Bandung is complete without ticking off two must-dos from any planned itinerary. The first is the Tangkuban Perahu mountain located 30 kilometers north of the city. As well as a stunning ascent up winding roads and through mist-shrouded villages, travelers who make it to the top can experience the sights, sounds, sulfurous smells and geological oddities of a semi-active volcano. On the way back, stop at one of the many elevated eateries that offer views of the twinkling lights of the city far below. By contrast, our other recommendation is to shop your heart away in the upscale Art Deco-style shopping area of Braga Street, right in the center of town. This little strip offers up a generous serving of boutique shops, quality restaurants and artsy coffee shops, giving visitors a little slice of European ambience in this very Javanese city.
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If you find yourself in Jak arta for more than a few days and need a dr amatic change of scenery—and some fresh mountain air to boot—then head southeast to the West Java capital city of Bandung.
Mist-shrouded Tangkuban Perahu.
Catching a break near Kalibendo.
Banyuwangi
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Right at the eastern edge of the island of Java lies Bunyawangi, another of Indonesia’s well-k ept secrets. It’s probably best k nown as a port from which to catch a ride to Bali, which lies some 30 to 45 minutes away by ferry. That said, Bany u wangi is a delightful place in its own right—well worth exploring and with easy access to stunning scenery. We’d even go so far as to recommend planning a trip to the town and its surroundings if you’re staying on Bali itself—head for the Ubung Bus Terminal in Denpasar and find a bus to Gilimanuk, and then take the ferry from Gilimanuk to Banyuwangi. Total cost shouldn’t be much more than Rp300,000 depending on where you’re traveling from and which sort of service you choose. Of the many attractions in the area, the Mt. Ijen crater is a literal hotspot. This active, spluttering volcanic area and the plateau it sits in are breathtaking, famed for vivid blue water lakes and eruptions that, at night, are lit with an eerie blue iridescence. Be sure to hire a guide for both logistical and safety reasons. Meanwhile, the nearby areas of Tabuhan and Plenkung offer excellent surfing and diving spots, respectively, with the latter seeing breaks of up to 8 meters high. The area is also famous for its spectacular, glittering waterfalls, notably near Kalibendo, which is conveniently on the way to Mt. Ijen. Last but not least, Bunyawangi itself, being the proverbial melting pot of Javanese, Balinese, Malay, European and Chinese cultures, is rich in local heritage, ethnic performances and curios. Check with the nearest tourist guide as to what to visit and when.
Baluran.
Pulau Merah. Mt. Ijen.
Wayag Hills, Raja Ampat • Indonesia
Discover the garden of the world At some point in your life, you will feel that it is time to unwind. With your usual daily vast occurrences, remember to push the reset button. Stop for a second, let go of your worries. Reconnect with the earth and experience our way of relaxing. Be one with our nature, take your pick: endless mountains, inďŹ nite beaches, sparkling cities, or historical wonders. Don’t think twice. Because when everyone else is busy living, we celebrate life instead. www.indonesia.travel indonesia.travel @indtravel
indonesia.travel