SOUTHEAST ASIA / JUNE 2014
The Best of
SingaporE THE BEST AIRPORT IN THE WORLD THE EVOLVING CITY-STATE SOUL-SEARCHING IN SINGAPORE
Digital Destination Guide
SPECIAL PROMOTION
7:42 P.M.
In Singapore In the moment with cocktail hour at the Pacific Club on level 38 at
Pan Pacific Singapore It’s cocktail hour - magic hour in Singapore when you’re ensconced in a private club on level 38 looking out at the city skyline coming to light, under the inky blue sky. An emerging moon throws a gentle glow on the resplendent harbour setting before you’re ready to gather up your gown or tails, ready for a night on the town.
Top of the World Located in the heart of Marina Bay, Pan Pacific Singapore has emerged from an $80 million dollar renovation with a brand new look and cutting edge technology to boot. Sophistication is the word that comes to mind when one steps into the John Portman-designed lobby. Architectural aficionados would recognise his world-famous trademark from the stunning atrium which soars through the 38 levels of the hotel. 790 rooms and suites have been completely transformed to contemporary accommodation which feature panoramic views of the ever-changing city skyline. In spite of the impressive changes that now greet guests, the proverbial icing on the cake, is the hotel’s signature Pacific Club which has been completely transformed. This exclusive enclave - which is only available to guests who reserve rooms with Pacific Club privileges – is now located at the pinnacle of the hotel on the 38th floor, replete with a 360-degree vantage point that provide guests with unsurpassed views of Singapore. Admire the silhouette of Marina Bay Sands and Gardens by the Bay from the impressive height, over refined culinary presentations. Whilst appreciating Champagne breakfast and classic afternoon tea, guests will enjoy the attention to detail by the Pacific Club Concierge team. Surrounded by the inviting whimsical décor, impeccable service that anticipates one’s needs and magical sunsets over cocktails and canapés, one wishes for time to stand still in an
Sip, swirl and savour at Sunday Champagne Brunch at Edge, one of Singapore’s best.
Indulge with a myriad of soothing treatments at St. Gregory.
elegant, picture-perfect moment. Says hotel General Manager Scott Swank, “The Pacific Club offers guests the versatility to book their preferred type of room or suite within the hotel and to additionally purchase Pacific Club privileges in their booking. We recognise that our guests may all have very different needs and this option allows them to enjoy a customised stay with us and to have a uniquely memorable experience that is one of the best in Asia.” And one can surmise that it was this steadfast commitment to individual guests’ experiences that resulted in Pan Pacific Singapore being recognised as one of the World’s Best Business Hotels by Travel+Leisure magazine’s World’s Best Awards 2013.
To many food-loving Singaporeans, weekends are meant for culinary appreciation. Without having to leave the hotel, savour classic Japanese kaiseki at Keyaki, exquisite Cantonese at Hai Tien Lo, delicate afternoon tea served at Pacific Marketplace, Indian fine dining at Rang Mahal and gastro-tainment at its best via seven food theatre kitchens at Edge. The recently launched Sunday Champagne Brunch at Edge has to be one of the best-kept secrets in the city – highlights include á la minute grilled omi wagyu beef, signature Pan Pacific sausages and charcuterie, crispy suckling pig, roasts, freshly-shucked Tsarskaya and Fines De Claires oysters, sushi and sashimi and dessert presentations – heaven is home-made Nutella on a beautifully fluffy waffle - as the perfect conclusion. Bask in a lovely spot of sunshine by the outdoor swimming pool or book a spa treatment at St. Gregory to scrub, massage and soothe the tension away, there’s also a well-equipped round-the-clock fitness centre for those who feel so inclined. If perfect weekends existed, a stay at Pan Pacific Singapore with Pacific Club privileges would be it. Pan Pacific Singapore 7 Raffles Boulevard Tel: +656336 8111 panpacific.com/singapore
Luxury is a well-appointed Skyline Suite with full-length windows, for stunning views to wake up to.
Editor’s Note
June 2014
WHERE TO FIND ME
chrisk@mediatransasia.com @CKucway on Twitter
T
here’s never been a better time to cast aside your preconceptions when it comes to Singapore. The always vibrant city-state is worth a look for its arts scene, its mix of cultures, its shopping, its food (of course) and, yes in today’s frantic age, its order. Everything in its place is a welcome bit of fresh air when thinking of Asia’s big cities, and Singapore can lay claim to that ideal. The key to any visit is to explore. Get beyond Orchard Road, explore the twisting streets of Chinatown come nightfall. Head out to Sentosa, still home to some quiet strips of tropical beaches. By all means go to a hawker center, but don’t be afraid to delve into a Basque menu or the latest cocktail bar either. Go local, hop on the MRT and visit Gillman Barracks, an excellent collection of art galleries on the west side of the city. Make the most of that mix of Chinese, Malay and Indian cultures. Within this e-guide, you’ll find stories about old gems like the refurbished Ann Siang Hill; where to drink coffee or tea like a local; the lowdown on Singapore nightlife; and reasons why Changi airport is a world leader in every category imaginable. Overall, this cross section of stories is meant to help you uncover all that is hip and happening in ever-changing Singapore. If you haven’t visited lately and, even if you’ve been there often, know that this city is now a global trendsetter. Fashion and food, the arts and architecture, casinos and shopping malls, each forms of piece of the puzzle that is Singapore. Without one or the other, you might not experience all that this equatorial city has to offer. Don’t fret, another visit for a fresh set of experiences is always in the cards.—christopher kucway
The T+L Code Travel + Leisure editors, writers and photographers are the industry’s most reliable sources. While on assignment, they travel incognito whenever possible and do not take press trips or accept free travel of any kind. T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
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* BEST OF SINGAPORE * By Melanie Lee
Sofitel So Singapore Karl Lagerfeld designed “The Lion’s Seal” emblem that graces this historic 1927 structure. Behind its neo-classical façade are bold-colored guestrooms adorned with domed skylights, elaborate wall paneling and, in suites, elegant canopied beds. 35 Robinson Rd.; 65/6701-6800; sofitel.com; doubles from S$509.
Outside Oxwell & Co.
Shaken or stirred at The Black Swan.
SHOP Tyrwhitt General Company This artisanal boutique with retro flair sells crafted goods including tableware, cushions, watches and assorted artworks. They also hold workshops led by local craftsmen, with the idea that things should not just be bought, but also experienced. 150a Tyrwhitt Rd.; 65/8444-5589; tyrwhittgeneralcompany. com. EAT The Black Swan This new dining establishment, housed in a heritage Art Deco building, exudes 1920’s old-school swag. Its contemporary European menu has won many foodie fans here, with an oyster bar and house favorites such as the melt-in-yourmouth baked bone marrow. The Quadrant, 19 Cecil St.; 65/8181-3305; theblackswan.com.sg; dinner for two from S$160. Grub Located in one of Singapore’s prettiest suburban parks, Grub offers wholesomely delicious food that dodges downtown prices. Their beef comes
Dine in the park at Grub.
from New Zealand and their popular slow-roasted pork belly comes from pigs that are fed only barley, wheat and mountain mineral water—the result is divine. Bishan Park 1, 510 Ang Mo Kio Ave. 1; 65/6459-5743; grub.com.sg; dinner for two from S$50. Windowsill in the Woods There’s nothing quite as charming as a café with a whimsical fairytale concept and fresh, crusty pies. Their s’mores pie, which oozes with milk chocolate pudding and dark chocolate fudge, is impossible to resist. 78 Horne Rd.; 65/9004-7827; windowsillpies.sg; tea for two from S$20. DRINK Oxwell & Co With U.K. celeb chef Mark Sargeant and Aussie celeb bartender Luke Wheaty helming this shophouse gastrobar, you know the drinks here will be special. Their own beer brew, the Oxhorn Lager, has hints of nutmeg and calamansi, while their signature gin and tonic comes on tap. 5 Ann Siang Rd.; 65/64383984; oxwellandco.com; drinks for two from S$30. The Tuckshop This beer bar is the perfect place to lounge about on alfresco rattan furniture and play old board games. About 50 types of craft beer from all over the world are offered here, but if you really want to go local, request ice in your brew. 403 Guillemard Rd.; 65/85118102; thetuckshop.com.sg; drinks for two from S$26. Common Man Coffee Roasters There’s plenty of buzz about this new café, given its tie-up with Australia’s Five Senses Coffee. Besides espressobased drinks, Common Man offers coffee made by different pour-over methods such as the V60, Kalita Wave, Aeropress or the Chemex. 22 Martin Rd.; 65/6836-4695; commonmancoffeeroasters.com; coffee for two from S$12.
F R O M TO P : C O U R T ESY O F C O M M O N M A N C O F F EE R OAST ERS; C O U R T ESY O F OX W EL L & C O.; C O U R T ESY O F T H E B L AC K SWA N; C O U R T ESY O F G RU B
Common Man Coffee Roasters.
STAY Parkroyal on Pickering All 367 guestrooms of this awardwinning hotel look out to lush, fourstory sky gardens with reflecting pools, waterfalls and cascading vertical greenery. This is Singapore’s first hotel-in-a-garden, and is built by the famous WOHA Architects. 3 Upper Pickering St.; 65/6809-8888; parkroyal hotels.com; doubles from S$290.
Deals
T+L READER SPECIALS FROM SHOPAHOLICS’ STAYS ON ORCHARD ROAD TO A LIVELY BEACH VACATION IN SENTOSA.
Club Lounge at Oasia Hotel Singapore.
Great Singapore Sale from FAR EAST HOSPITALITY (stayfareast.com), the operator of eight hotels and nine serviced residences in Singapore. The Deal A stay in any one of the properties. The Highlight A five percent discount off rates, free
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WiFi access, a complimentary city tour and a chance to win 100 percent cashback on your next stay. Cost From S$148, double, through July 31. Savings Up to 25 percent. Discover Singapore from SINGAPORE MARRIOTT HOTEL (marriott.com), an iconic, refurbished five-star hotel on Orchard Road. The Deal Two nights in a Deluxe room. The Highlight One-day DUCK & HIPPO city sightseeing tickets for two and breakfast buffet for two at Marriot Cafe. Cost From S$820 (S$410 per night), double, through December 31. Savings 15 percent. Best Room Rate from CONCORDE HOTEL SINGAPORE (singapore. concordehotelsresorts.com), a
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business hotel on Orchard Road. The Deal A stay in a Premier room. The Highlight Complimentary evening cocktails; two pieces of laundry or pressing per day; breakfast at Premier Lounge, at Spices Cafe or through room service; and complimentary wireless Internet access. Cost From S$188, double, through December 31. Savings 25 percent. Island Glamour from W SINGAPORE, SENTOSA COVE (wsingaporesentosascove. com), a lively coastal hotel on Singapore’s favorite resort island. The Deal A stay in a Wonderful room. The Highlight Daily breakfast for two people at the kitchen table and signature cocktails for two people at WOOBAR. Cost From S$408, double, through December 31.
Savings 23 percent. Introductory Offer from FAIRMONT SINGAPORE (fairmont.com), a 769-room hotel at the heart of Singapore with 15 restaurant and bar choices. The Deal A stay in a Fairmont Premier room. The Highlight Breakfast for two and complimentary Internet access. Cost From S$318, double, through December 30. Savings 64 percent. Stay Another Night from RAFFLES SINGAPORE (raffles.com), a 127-year-old, colonial-style hotel. The Deal Three nights in a Courtyard suite. The Highlight Third night with compliments. Cost From S$1,380 (S$690 per night), double, through June 30. Savings 30 percent.
COURTESY OF OASIA HOTEL SINGAPORE
Great Singapore Sale 2014 Getaway from GRAND HYATT SINGAPORE (singapore. grandhyatt.com), a luxury hotel at the heart of the Orchard Road shopping belt. The Deal Two nights in a Standard room. The Highlight Ten percent off the Hyatt Daily Rate, a S$50 shopping voucher per room towards purchases at T Galleria by DFS and complimentary wireless Internet. Cost From S$860 (S$430 per night), double, through July 31. Savings Up to 23 percent.
on the map
ALL ABOUT ANN SIANG
This hilly row of charming shop houses on the edge of Singapore’s Chinatown oozes class with a side of swagger. Melanie Lee ambles its sweet streets in search of the coolest places to eat sea urchin pudding, drink Asian-inpired cocktails and indulge in the ultimate spa experiences.
Clockwise from left: Ann Siang comes alive at night; Ding Dong’s Vietnamese Scotch eggs; shave and a haircut at Truefitt & Hill; snazzy interior at The Club Hotel.
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Photographed by Darren Soh
5 A sea urchin pudding? Not just a quirk of the menu at tapas bar Lolla (22 Ann
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(8 Ann Siang Hill; 65/6423-9562; 3 Zui Hong Lou
4 The Club Hotel (28 Ann Siang Rd.; 65/6808-2188; theclub.com.sg; from S$210 double per night) is a 22-room boutique heritage hotel in an elegant building from 1900. Don’t be fooled by its pristine white façade, for there are plenty of fun, artistic touches such as stenciled tree branches adorning the walls and i need tranquility do not disturb signs. Its rooftop bar, Ying Yang, offers stunning views of the city.
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2 The world’s oldest barbershop, Truefitt & Hill (9 Ann Siang Rd., 65/62235263; truefittandhill.com.sg; S$60 for a shave and S$75 for a haircut) opened its first branch in Singapore last year and has become popular with businessmen bromancing their gentlemanly associates in a manly black-and-white grooming establishment that also serves (masculine, we promise) cocktails.
zuihonglouxinjiapopteltd. com.sg; drinks and dim sum for two around S$60) is a concept dim sum bar that exudes a nostalgic vibe with old-school backlit posters hung on its ceilings—a fitting tribute to an area that was once a gathering spot for Chinese coolies. Try the Flower Song, a vodka-based cocktail with chrysanthemum and lychee, served in a Chinese teapot.
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1 The brainchild of Chef Ryan Clift (of the muchlauded Tippling Club) and the Spa Esprit Group, Ding Dong (23 Ann Siang Rd.; 65/6557-0189; dingdong.com. sg; dinner for two from S$100) pioneers Southeast Asian small plates dining concept and fuses creative cuisine with a distinct chill-out vibe. Don’t miss the scallop ceviche with fresh coconut or the cross-cultural Vietnamese Scotch eggs.
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Siang Rd.; 65/6423-1228; lolla.com.sg; dinner for two from S$160), but considered legendary by foodies in this town, and far beyond. Lolla made waves when it opened in 2012 with its Mediterranean-influenced bites, and was named to Zagat’s 2013 list of “The 10 Hottest Restaurants in the World.” So book early. Note: On Fridays and Saturdays from 7 p.m. to 2 a.m., the Ann Siang area is closed to traffic and becomes pedestrian-only. ✚ T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
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JULIAN TAN, CO-OWNER OF THE TANJONG BEACH CLUB, GIVES T+L THE DETAILS ONWHERE TO GO AND WHAT TO WEAR IN THE INCREASINGLY STYLISH ISLAND STATE. BY MARK LEAN
With the influx of celebrity chef-headlined restaurants, highrolling casinos and super clubs, Singapore has shed the final traces of its fusty reputation. “There is a new exuberance here,” says Julian Tan, a former investment banker who moved to Singapore in 2003 where he chanced upon a quiet stretch of beach on the then-tranquil island of Sentosa. Inspired by the Perth coastlines where he grew up and taken by “the sprawling white beachfront and stunning sunsets,” the MalaysianAustralian, together with his brother Christian, set up a pop-up bar on Sentosa called The Shack. It was constructed using a recycled six-meter–wide shipping container, oil drums as high tables and shipping pallets for day beds. The Shack’s immediate success soon called for more concrete expansion plans. This led, in 2010, to the S$3.8-million Tanjong Beach Club (120 Tanjong Beach Walk, Sentosa; 65/6270-1355; tanjongbeachclub. com), or TBC for short—a 9,144 square-meter area featuring a
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Julian Tan by the waterfront,
restaurant with above. Top: The infinity pool at the Tanjong Beach Club. decorative timber paneling and 2.7-meter glass doors and bars fronting both the sun-kissed beach and the infinity pool. “It’s a multi-dimensional space,” says Tan. “With sea breezes blowing, one can take a dip in the pool, or hit the sand for a game of volleyball or lie in the sun with a mojito in hand.” On weekends, the TBC attracts a stylish crowd made up of locals, expatriates and off-duty models, thronging to enjoy tropical cocktails like the Tanjong Sling (vodka, elderflower cordial, apple juice, lychee, kaffir lime leaf and fresh ginger), and listen to house tracks that the DJ spins late into the night. And massive parties like the thrice-yearly Full Steam Ahead full moon celebration give patrons the chance to let loose. “It’s a great spot for people to escape their busy lives,” adds Tan. ➔
C L O C K W I S E F R O M TO P L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F TA N J O N G B E A C H C L U B ; © C H R I S T I A N TA N
SINGAPORE SUMMER STYLE
JULIAN TAN’S SINGAPORE ADDRESS BOOK LOOF “This is, by far, my favorite bar in Singapore, with cocktails like the Ho Chi Mint, made from vodka, apple and lemon juice, pear nectar and mint.” 03-07 Odeon Towers, 331 North Bridge Rd.; 65/9773-9304; drinks for two S$51; loof.com.sg.
TAN’S TIPS Clockwise from left: Outside the Loof bar; scallop ceviche and radish salsa at Esquina; inside the Michelin-star restaurant.
STYLE PICKS AQUABUMPS “Some of the coolest beach photography around that looks great on any wall.” aquabumps.com.
PERSOL SUNGLASSES “I am partial to the retro shapes and the classic design made popular by Steve McQueen.” persol.com.
INHABIT “It’s best place for jeans and other casualwear brands not easily found elsewhere in Singapore.” 390 Orchard Rd., B1-03, Palais Renaissance; 65/6235-6995; inhabit.com.sg. DEUS EX MACHINA “I love these motorbikes and there are some pretty amazing accessories, too.” deuscustoms.com.
BASSIKE “It’s an Australian casual wear brand that makes fashion forward T-shirts and sweats all from 100 percent organic cotton.” bassike.com.
SUPERGA SNEAKERS “They are simple and casual. I wear mine everywhere.” superga.co.uk.
FUJIFILM X100 “A retro-style camera with all the options of a digital SLR.” fujifilm.com.
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28 HONG KONG STREET “This underground New Yorkstyle speakeasy has some of the best cocktails in town, like the Literate Lass.” 28 Hong Kong St.; 65/6533-2001; drinks for two S$51. STRANGERS’ REUNION “This is where I get my daily coffee fix, prepared by passionate baristas.” 33/35/37 Kampong Bahru Rd.; 65/62224869; drinks for two S$19. PANGAEA “The party at Singapore’s ultimate lounge club doesn’t start till late.” Marina Bay Sands; 65/8611-7013; pangaea.sg. RESTAURANT ANDRÉ “For fine dining, I’d recommend the restaurant’s eight-course degustation menu, OctaPhilosophy.” 41 Bukit Pasoh Rd.; 65/6534-8880; dinner for two S$1,022; restaurantandre.com.
F R O M TO P : C O U R T E S Y O F L O O F ; C O U R T E S Y O F E S Q U I N A ( 2 ) ; © E U G E N E TA N ; C O U R T E S Y O F P E R S O L ; C O U R T E S Y O F S U P E R G A
ESQUINA “Michelin-starred chef Jason Atherton’s new Singapore bolt hole puts a creative spin on traditional dishes. Try the Iberico pork and foie gras burger, as well as the scallop ceviche and radish salsa.” 16 Jiak Chuan Rd.; 65/6222-1616; dinner for two S$128; esquina.com.sg.
WHAT’S BREWING.
From top: The light-filled interior of JewelCoffee; named after a 19th-century Frenchman, Loysel’s Toy serves up craft brews; baristas toiling away at Maison Ikkoku.
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ORIOLE COFFEE ROASTERS Thanks to owner Keith Loh, one of the city’s most respected baristas, this outpost has quickly become a favorite among the coffee-drinking set. The three-story shop house café offers a great merchandise lineup (siphon coffee makers, steam thermometers), in addition to an onsite roasting room and a “lab” facility for experimenting with different blends. While the focus is on craft drinks like piccolo latte and flat white, the café also pays homage to Singapore’s traditional kopitiam (coffee shop) culture with nostalgic bric-a-brac—1970’s Guinness glasses, tungsten light bulbs and porcelain tableware—and a snacks menu featuring local classics such as tau sar piah (mung bean pastry) and kaya (pandanus jam) toast. Not only does Oriole supply its locally roasted beans to other cafés, it also conducts training classes for baristas-to-be, so this is definitely the place for coffee enthusiasts to pick up tools of the trade—check out its Facebook page for the latest updates. 10/10A Jiak Chuan Rd.; 65/6224-8131; oriolecoffee.com; coffee and snacks for two S$18. JEWEL COFFEE Occupying a brightly lit storefront in the Raffles Place CBD, Jewel Coffee has become a daily go-to for the area’s executives since it arrived on the scene in 2011. Former corporate banker turned café founder Adrian Khong decorated the 84-square-meter space with blackboards bearing explanatory sketches and a blonde-wood counter crowned with a cherryred COFFEE sign. Barista Shin Hao operates the small arsenal of high-end gadgetry—the manual La Marzocco Strada espresso machine and the precision-brewing Marco Über Boiler—to deliver exquisite cups of joe like the Chemex (a light, filtered brew) and Gibraltar (a double-shot espresso with just a touch of milk). On offer are single-origin beans from locations as diverse as Brazil’s Fazenda Samambaia, Lintong in Sumatra and Colombia’s
F R O M TO P : CO U R T E SY O F J E W E L CO F F E E ; CO U R T E SY O F LOYS E L ' S TOY; CO U R T E SY O F M A I S O N I K KO K U
AN ARTISANAL COFFEE WAVE IS UNDERWAY IN SINGAPORE, SPEARHEADED BY A CROP OF HOMEGROWN SPECIALTY SHOPS AND A FEW PASSIONATE CAFFEINE ADDICTS. HERE’S WHERE TO DROP IN TO GET YOUR OWN CRAFT CUPPAS. BY LIANG XINYI
F R O M TO P : CO U R T E SY O F O R I O L E CO F F E E R OA ST E R S ; CO U R T E SY O F LOYS E L ' S TOY; CO U R T E SY O F O P E N D O O R P O L I C Y
Huila. One Shenton Way, #01-07; 65/6636-9452; coffee and lunch for two S$30. LOYSEL’S TOY Younger sister to cult roaster Papa Palheta, Loysel’s Toy—named after a 19th century Frenchman who invented the commercial espresso machine—is quirky but serious about its beans. Its obscure location in a renovated warehouse, a 10-minute walk from the nearest MRT station, hasn’t deterred a loyal following—ranging from iPhone-toting hipsters to moms with strollers—from arriving in droves for their caffeine fix. The high-ceilinged interior is outfitted with a gleaming Synesso Cyncra espresso machine, an elegant gold-and-black roaster and paper bags stuffed with house-roasted beans for sale. Besides espresso drinks made from its signature Terra Firma blend, this store also offers filtered sets like Brewed Otherwise, a singleorigin coffee of the day brewed using a siphon and French press, for the purists. To best enjoy the laidback charm, sit in the leafy courtyard and order the tasty scrambled eggs and toast to accompany your coffee. 66 Kampong Bugis, Ture, #01-01; 65/6292-2306; loyselstoy.com; coffee and brunch for two S$30. OPEN DOOR POLICY A trio of Singapore’s food and wine stalwarts—Spa Esprit Group founder Cynthia Chua, Tippling Club’s chef Ryan Clift and 40 Hands’ owner Harry Grover—front this new addition to the increasingly hip quarter of Tiong Bahru. In the rustic-chic space, with exposed brick walls, mismatched steel chairs, teakwood-planked floors and a glassed-in show kitchen, the Asian-European fare shines (mushroom risotto with truffle crumbs; pork belly with braised quinoa). But what makes this buzzing bistro a cut above the rest is its specialty coffee bar— run by Grover and the skilled baristas at 40 Hands, just across the street, doing fresh brews from singleorigin beans sourced mainly from a selected group of Australian roasters. Perch at the coffee bar and watch the barista work his magic to conjure up a Cold Drip—coffee brewed and chilled drop-by-drop over a 12-hour cycle—served in a Pyrex flask. 19 Yong Siak St.; 65/6221-9307; odpsingapore.com; dinner and coffee for two S$70. MAISON IKKOKU Inspired by Tokyo’s hybrid spaces, two style-savvy couples—Janice Ong and Thomas Song; Shanie Teoh and Franz Chua—set up this café cum fashion
boutique last September, naming it after the Japanese manga Maison Ikkoku. The charming trilevel shop house packs a lot of style within its 370 square meters, ranging from whitewashed brick walls festooned with polished copper pipes and preloved wooden dressers to the collection of Japanese menswear labels. Head barista Muhammad Rizuan is often behind the Nuova Simonelli machine on the ground-floor café, crafting coffee embellished with intricate latte art. After 6 p.m., saunter up to the rooftop bar for another round of drinks—this time alcoholic—and soak in the views of the gold-domed Sultan Mosque next door. 20 Kandahar St.; 65/62940078; maison-ikkoku.net; coffee and snacks for two S$26. ✚
From top: Outside Oriole Coffee Roasters in Chinatown; outdoor seats at Loysel’s Toy are surrounded by lush greenery; the coffee bar at Open Door Policy.
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hotel
Natural Touches
The 86-room Hotel Fort Canning provides an unexpected sanctuary in the middle of Singapore’s bustling downtown. Formerly an administration building for British colonial troops, this classily restored 1926 building is nestled amid the rich foliage of Fort Canning Hill, Singapore’s first botanical garden and former residence of ancient Malay kings. 11 Canning Walk; 65/6559-6770; hfcsingapore.com; doubles from S$380.—melanie lee
To preserve the hotel’s historical legacy and charm, the building retains its original colonial façade with antique French doors.
In the Deluxe Garden room, guests can enjoy their own private outdoor patio. The Andalay daybed is the perfect spot to lounge and admire the surrounding greenery.
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Earth-toned silk linens from Jim Thompson, inspired by the bucolic environs of this boutique hotel, drape each of the beds.
COURTESY OF HOTEL FORT CANNING
A stand-alone bathtub greets guests at the room’s entrance. This feature is a tribute to Majapahit royalty who used to have hot baths at Fort Canning’s natural spring.
A flight of three wines, at a price to love ENJOY 25% OFF ON A FLIGHT OF 3 WINES Order a Flight of any 3 wines from our exclusive Wines of the World menu and get 25% off* at participating venues across Starwood Hotels & Resorts in Asia Pacific.
Valid from 15 May to 15 July 2014. Visit spg.com/flightofthree for more information and start enjoying the offer responsibly.
*Terms & Conditions apply.
SINGAPORE’S MAGIC GARDEN. TOWERING MAN-MADE TREES LIGHT UP MARINA BAY. BY JENNIFER CHEN
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o, this isn’t a backdrop from Avatar.
These so-called Supertrees are the centerpieces of the first phase of Gardens by the Bay (gardensbythebay.org.sg), the city’s S$1 billion, 102-hectare waterfront park. The “trunks” of the 18 soaring trellises (which reach up to 50 meters) are dripping with Brazilian bromeliads, orchids from Ecuador and other exotic flora. More highlights: 10 themed gardens, two glass-enclosed biomes and an aerial walkway from which to take it all in. ✚
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Photographed by Morgan & Owens
BACK TO BASICS.
Clockwise from top: Steak-frites at L'entrecote; toiling in the kitchen at La Maison Fatien; a nostalgic vibe at Brasserie Gavroche.
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BRASSERIE GAVROCHE Walk through Brasserie Gavroche’s antique swinging doors, past the hall, into a high-ceilinged space framed by gilt wall-hung mirrors, leather banquette seats and antique furniture. Here, Paris-born chef Frédéric Colin, former executive chef of the St. Regis Singapore, has created an enormous menu teeming with brasserie classics such as tartine d’os a moelle; garlic confit and bone marrow sitting atop toasted bread with a generous spread of parsley puree; and tartare de bœuf Angus, handcut Angus beef with French fries. T+L TIP Ask for grand père Henri’s signature dishes. The chef’s early years were influenced by his grandfather’s Parisian restaurant and, naturally, the latter’s shadow is prominently felt in dishes, including the rarely seen fish quenelle, grated pike fish baked in dough and served in a crayfish bisque. 66 Tras St.; 65/6225-8266; brasseriegavroche.com; dinner for two S$150.
C LO C KW I S E F R O M TO P L E F T: L AU RY N I S H A K ( 2 ) ; C O U R T E S Y O F B R A S S E R I E G AV R O C H E
AFTER OPENINGS BY WOLFGANG PUCK AND JOEL ROBUCHON, SINGAPORE’S TASTE FOR FINE DINING MAKES WAY FOR A HANDFUL OF CASUAL FRENCH BISTROS. BY EVELYN CHEN
F R O M T O P : L A U R Y N I S H A K ; C O U R T E S Y O F B R A S S E R I E G AV R O C H E ; L A U R Y N I S H A K
From top: The casual dining room at L'entrecote; fish quenelle at Brasserie Gavroche; wines by Maison Fatien Père & Fils at La Maison Fatien.
L’ENTRECOTE Located on the cobblestone-paved Duxton Hill, this Parisian-inspired steak-frites joint, by millionaire-turnedrestaurateur Oliver Bendel, is as close as you can get to the Parisian Relais de Venise experience in Singapore. Like the Paris institution, L’entrecote is heaving with hungry diners and tables at this unembellished restaurant are cramped so tightly together that it’s impossible not to tune-in to your neighbors’ conversations. Nor are you afforded a choice of main course—in this case, two slices of entrecote with salad and vinaigrette and free flow of fries, though of course you can pick how you like your steak done. On the other hand, there are plenty of choices among the classic bistro starters and desserts. Don’t miss the dish of escargots de Bourgogne in an addictive parsley accented garlic butter sauce and the hearty serving of tarte Tatin. T+L TIP Given the no reservations policy at
L’entrecote, come early. 36 Duxton Hill.; 65/6690-7561; lentrecote.sg; dinner for two S$130. LA MAISON FATIEN Nestled in a four-story pre-war shop house along Duxton Road, La Maison Fatien has its roots in Beaune, Burgundy, where the Fatien family runs a bed-andbreakfast called Chez les Fatien, and a wine-merchandising business under Maison Fatien Père & Fils. Fittingly, the Singapore outpost also plays the part with rough-cut brick walls adorned with French-inspired posters. The Fatiens have crafted a tight yet perfectly executed menu of all-time French bistro standards: think pan-seared duck liver with caramelized apple, confit de canard and a daily cocotte special that, during our visit, featured a braised lamb shank with French beans and roasted new potatoes on the side. With starters priced below S$18 and mains capped
at S$28, this is Singapore’s value-formoney bistro. T+L TIP Maison Fatien Père & Fils produces only 15,000 bottles of wines annually, a small fraction of which are exported to Singapore. Don’t miss their house Bourgogne pinot noir, a favorite among local diners. 76 Duxton Rd.; 65/6220-3822; lamaisonfatien.com; dinner for two S$115. ✚ T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
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Revelers at Zouk. Opposite: A B28 bartender at work.
SHAKE MONEY
THAT
MAKER
Singapore’s nocturnal fare has never been more diverse, whether you’re into discerning settings, a bit of debauchery or simply a fine craft beer. By Zul Andra. Photographed by Lauryn Ishak
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Maybe it’s indicative of how far Singapore’s after-hours scene has come, but I wasn’t surprised to find myself interviewing “The International King of Clubs” in the opulent, yet somewhat staid surroundings of the Post Bar at the Fullerton Hotel. Surrounded by artichoke lamps and original wall motifs from its century-old architecture, serenaded by a laidback jazz soundtrack, American nightclub entrepreneur Michael Ault and I chatted about his latest ultra-luxe lounge. We sat in what once was a post office talking about his latest venture, a bottle-service hangout for the wealthy and really a new era for Singapore. “Everything you can find at a house party for the rich and famous,” he told me. When I visited in 2011, Pangaea was still a few months away from opening so Ault, who owns and operates more than 25 clubs in 10 cities, tried to create the scene for me. Enter to a colorful array of 20,000 glass bulbs in the ceiling and cozy up to the ostrich- and crocodile-skin sofas, while a personal concierge makes sure your drinks resting on the 1,000-year-old Saur treetop are always filled (Urban legend has it that Ault described this turn-around time as “three minutes tops or we’ll fire the server”). He’s not new to the ultra-lounge business. As far back as mid-90’s New York, his SpyBar lounge attracted everyone from actor Leonardo DiCaprio to Kate Moss to Madonna—does Hugh Hefner still count?—with dedicated service staff almost the same size as their entourages. He made sure these name guests partied their hearts out at private tables, or at least tables where everyone could see them. On to a good thing, Ault then introduced the concept to Miami, London, Aspen, São Paolo, Marbella and, late last year, to Singapore. With a capacity of 450 people, Pangaea exists to pamper Asia’s wealthy and famous. In a city where numbers count, the tourism board reports that Singapore took in S$23 billion
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Clockwise from top: Dinner and drinks with a view at Level 33; Gardens by the Bay as seen from the SkyPark at Marina Bay Sands; on the dance floor; Mat Zo spins at Zouk.
in 2011, up 18 percent from the previous year, with a third of that drawn from both the food-and-beverage, and entertainment sectors. Singapore nightlife is big business. Architect Moshe Safdie’s glass pyramid-shaped Crystal Pavilion is home to two mega-clubs, drawing different crowds through separate entrances—Avalon from the ground floor and Pangaea through an underwater tunnel—which helps keep the Jimmy Choos and Nikes in their rightful places. “Every aspect of the lounge, from the door host to the bartender and even the music in the air, acts in concert to give our clients a personalized and rewarding experience,” he said with a smile that never seems to rest. The S$2,000 minimum price tag for a table (don’t bat an eye since the most expensive is the S$15,000 Dragon Den table which is covered in golden python skin and slightly elevated to discern between the other mere big spenders) has never been a deterrent for the wealthy. As a matter a fact, the high price has been a huge draw since the rich get to rub shoulders with the filthy rich. As reported by New York Post, Facebook co-founder Eduardo Saverin notched a S$62,000 bar tab on his birthday while a local businessman reportedly spent a whopping S$80,000 in one sitting. Is it any surprise then that the crowd consists of bankers, socialites and celebrities?
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ust 10 years ago, the best bars in Singapore were the ones that didn’t forget your orders and hotel bars (think along the lines of Raffles Hotel’s Long Bar or the Highland Bar at Goodwood Park) were the only few that kept the standards high. Now a venue like Ku Dé Ta, perched 57 stories high with a commanding view of the city, lures a wealthy breed that includes everyone from Johor royalty to Singapore’s top five percent. Newer establishments like The Vault—a minimalist bar housed in a 80-year-old former bank—delve into exclusivity. Opened in July, the bar is a modern enclave where creativity meets champagne. Set up by Godwin Pereira, who had been the music director at the now-defunct Ministry of Sound Singapore and at Ku Dé Ta, who labels the venue as an “inclusively exclusive joint” where the artistically rich mingle with the financially wealthy. Exclusivity is the current hot venture, a game-changer when it comes to nightlife in Singapore. Although the throne for the king of the country’s lounge scene is up for grabs, there is reigning royalty in the country’s clubbing circuit, and he is none other than Zouk’s founder, Lincoln Cheng. Since Zouk opened 23 years ago, its success has been credited to how it
A venue like Ku Dé Ta, PERCHED 57 STORIES HIGH WITH A COMMANDING VIEW, lures a wealthy breed that includes royalty and Singapore’s top five percent
continuously reinvents itself. Being named one of the top five clubs in the world, and the only one in Asia, by none other than nightlife bible DJ Mag is not something to simply brush off. The bottle-service culture came to prominence about two years ago when members-only club Filter opened— Pangaea simply added more glitz to the game. Cheng wasted no time converting Velvet Underground (one of Zouk’s four complexes that includes a 1,500-capacity main room, and the smaller sized Phuture and Wine Bar) under the drill. He spent S$3 million to inject Velvet with a bold new look, including two distinctive areas: Velvet Lounge and Dance. While the latter is where the hip and trendy converge under a sprawling interactive LED ceiling while dancing to emerging acts and cutting-edge music (Maya Jane Coles, Mount Kimbie and Aeroplane were the first few guests), Velvet Lounge caters to a more VIP-esque temperament. Artwork by Warhol, Stella, Haring and Romero Britto adorns the walls in this intimate 12-table (each for S$1,500 a pop if you really must ask) lounge complete with a dedicated server for each table. The club’s dominance in the Asian clubbing circuit has also produced Singapore’s most successful DJ, Aldrin. Though he has since left Zouk, the former resident DJ and artist booker left an indelible mark on the place. He was instrumental in shaping the musically progressive attitude the club has held on to till today. Currently an independent DJ and label owner of Onewithmusic, his curriculum vitae matches that of the world’s finest. Having taken the spotlight at Renaissance in London and Ibiza’s Pacha, Space and DC10, he was the first Southeast Asian to headline a two-hour guest mix on Pete Tong’s world-renowned BBC Radio 1 show, Essential Mix. Even now, Aldrin continues to be a figure of inspiration for upcoming DJs in Singapore. Zouk also keeps up to date with its events. Mambo Jambo, a popular retro night held every Wednesday for the last two decades, has now moved its quirky mass-synchronized dancing from the main room to the 200-person-capacity Phuture. A new night called TGIW—Thank God It’s Wednesday—features
Although clubs like Avalon and Zouk are THE BIGGEST SPENDERS ON DJ BOOKINGS, smaller clubs are garnering a fair attendance for their parties
current dance hits that are all the rage. While Zouk is still considered a rite of passage for local revelers, gone are the days when it was the perennial go-to club in Singapore. On average, a handful of international and more than 20 homegrown acts perform during any given week. Although clubs like Avalon and Zouk are the biggest spenders on DJ bookings, smaller clubs are garnering a fair share of attendance for their parties. From testosterone-driven college kids hell-bent on getting completely inebriated at The Butter Factory to the youthful artsy crowd at the bygone Home Club in tune to more alternative music styles such as dubstep, drum and bass, and indie, there really is something for everyone.
Clockwise from left: Ku Dé Ta at dusk; beer on tap at Level 33; Syaheed manages many of Singapore’s indie music talents; fans gather at Timbre@Substation for local band 53A.
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side from venues promoting the best that electronic dance music has to offer, live music is also a mainstay in Singapore’s nightlife circuit. With three outlets across the island—The Arts House, The Substation and Old School— Timbre not only serves the most tantalizing pizzas around but has also turned artists into household names. Pop-rock outfit 53A and jazz-singing sensation Michaela Therese have been lauded for their musicality and powerful performances—something they might not have been known for without Timbre’s platform. Bands like the nine-piece rock and hip-hop group SIXX, and the country’s best indie export, Inch Chua, have all played through Timbre and went on to feature at Midem, a music trade show in France, and South by Southwest (SXSW) Music Festival at Austin, Texas respectively this year. However, music is not the quintessential element for a good night out. For some, it’s not even important. As more nocturnal consumers develop an affluent palate from their travels and a surging trend to be aware of what goes into their mouths, more specialty bars are sprouting up to serve these specific needs. I met up with Indra Kantono, one of the founders of Jigger & Pony, at his studiously chic, 65-seat bar that has been making waves for its classic cocktails . “Just look at this punch,” he pointed to a glass bowl that could serve more than 15 people. “It’s a communal cocktail paying homage to the past, and the flavors are consistent; not like bottle services where the potency, flavors and quality of the drinks can vary into the night,” Kantono insists while we sip the citrusy classic rum punch—ingredients which originated from traders working along the Dutch East Indies spice routes in the 17th century. Raveen Misra on the other hand, believes that the last say will inevitably go to the drinker. The bar chef from Nektar—a cozy and intimate venue with an L-shaped wooden top bar as its centerpiece—speculates that the next trend will be cocktail master-classes. “Customers are getting more knowledgeable and will soon want to create their own cocktails exactly to their liking,” he figures. Mixologists and founders of now defunct BarKode, Karen Heng and Caryn Cheah noticed the same trend at their minimalist watering hole located in the heart of Little India. “These days, drinkers come in with a specific liquor base, a particular fruity flavor and even their own concoctions in T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
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mind,” Heng says. Classic and tailor-made cocktails aside, experimental concoctions (or “molecular cocktails”) are piquing the interest of cocktail aficionados. Places like the greenhouse-looking Tippling Club offer 10- to 15-course degustation menus that pair progressive dining with molecular cocktails. It’s a pilgrimage worth experiencing if you’re into flavorful theatrics—think cocktails in a setting full of dry ice. Not to be outdone are the good old suds. The sprawling Level 33 has a selection of craft beers made in five-meter high cauldrons. Smaller bars catering to Singapore’s growing thirst for international craft beers have also cropped up. Located behind a shopping mall, the timid frame of JiBiru, founded by Charlie Guerrier, who is also the director of the Japanese Craft Beers Association, is a treasure trove of rare Japanese brews counting the range of Shiga Kogen and Hitachino as must-tries. From cocktails to beers, what’s a drinking culture without whiskey? B28, located along the lively Ann Siang Road, is the definitive haven for whiskey lovers. Set in an intimate and opulently decorated bar, pick from 100 premium Scottish, Irish, American and Canadian single malts. With jazz music and videos from the 50’s and 60’s acting as a soundtrack through your whiskey journey, the 35-seater room rubs off as a club from another era. ✚
Singapore Nights Avalon 2 Bayfront Ave., Crystal Pavilion South, Marina Bay Sands; 65/6688-7448; avalon.sg; cover charge from S$30, including one drink. B28 28 Ann Siang Rd., basement The Club Hotel; 65/9026-3466; btwentyeight.com; drinks for two S$30. The Butter Factory 1 Fullerton Rd., #02-02/03/04 One Fullerton; 65/6333-8243; thebutterfactory. com; cover charge from S$23 inclusive of two drinks. The Foundry 18 Mohamed Sultan Rd.; 65/6235-4624; drinks for two S$20. JiBiru 313 Orchard Rd., #01-26 313@Somerset; 65/6732-6884; jibiru.com; drinks for two S$20. Jigger & Pony 101 Amoy St.; 65/6223-9101; jiggerandpony. com; drinks for two S$40. Ku Dé Ta 1 Bayfront Ave., Marina Bay Sands SkyPark, North Tower; 65/6688-7688; kudeta.com.sg; cover charge S$38, including one drink. From top: Aldrin Quek started as a DJ at Zouk, but now spins around the world; 53A on stage at Timbre@Substation.
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Level 33 8 Marina Blvd., #33-01 Marina Bay Financial Centre Tower 1; 65/6834-3133; level33.com.sg; drinks for two S$36.
Nektar 31 Scotts Rd.; 65/68369185; nektar.com.sg; drinks for two S$40. Pangaea 2 Bayfront Ave., #B2-05, Marina Bay Sands; 65/8611-7013; pangaea.sg; cover charge S$40. Post Bar 1 Fullerton Sq., G/F Fullerton Hotel; 65/6877-8135; fullertonhotel.com; drinks for two S$32. Timbre timbre.com.sg. Tippling Club 38 Tanjong Pagar Rd.; 65/6475-2217; tipplingclub. com; degustation menus from S$145 per person. The Vault 23 Circular Rd.; 65/6223-9695; facebook.com/ TheVAULTsg; drinks for two S$32. Zouk 17 Jiak Kim St.; 65/67382988; zoukclub.com; cover charge from S$15, including two drinks.
A night out above Singapore at Ku DĂŠ Ta.
Soul-Searching in Singapore
It’s a common refrain: this modern island’s shine outweighs its substance. But Singaporeans are increasingly strolling down memory lane, looking for their cultural roots. m elan ie lee follows the trail. Photographed by da r r e n s o h
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: SULTAN MOSQUE IN KAMPONG GLAM; THE CENTURY-OLD PERANAKAN MUSEUM FAÇADE; CRAVEABLE KEONG SAIK SNACKS— NOW REBRANDED AS THE STUDY; THE WANDERLUST HOTEL IN LITTLE INDIA.
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am on a “Sultans of Spice” tour—a three-hour exploration of Kampong Glam, a historical Malaysian precinct in Singapore. “To know Kampong Glam is to know Singapore,” the guide, Geraldine Koh, declares as our group of 10 meanders through the neighborhood, checking in at Sultan Mosque, a former royal palace and collection of sweetsmelling shops selling hajj pilgrimage supplies and tombstones of old Malay kings. In the past, Malay aristocracy resided here, along with Malay and Arab merchant communities who came to this thriving port town to seek their fortunes. Today, colorful rows of restored shophouses are bars, restaurants, shisha joints and indie fashion shops. “By being conscious of some of the things that have taken place here,” YuMei Balasingamchow, co-author of Singapore: A Biography tells me, “you deepen your appreciation of what is there today. This is especially so for Singapore because so much of its past is seemingly invisible and overlooked. Yes, this is a terrific, glitzy, hypermodern city—but that is only one layer of meaning to this place.” It’s this juxtaposition that I’m in Kampong Glam to explore, the layers of the old and new that give this youthful city-state its context. Beneath Singapore’s dazzling cosmopolitan status is a darker, grittier past—150 years when its power as a port wasn’t enough to fend off social problems and racial riots in this ethnic hodgepodge. It’s been 48 years since Singapore parted ways with Malaysia, and in that time the historic has held little hip cachet. Perhaps that’s because the city’s visionaries have been veering on the side of pragmatism, generally valuing
economic development over cultural preservation. Perhaps it has to do with a socially entrenched stoicism: the American pollster Gallup recently ranked Singapore as the least emotional country in the world. But lately Singapore is getting nostalgic. The city-state has realized that clean streets and administrative efficiency do not a complete culture make. Little by little, Singaporeans are clinging to the existing remnants of our past with an attitude akin to reverence. There’s a move to tell old stories and repurpose old structures, as this dynamic city attempts to redefine itself. The most accessible windows to the past nestle a far bit below this skyline of glass towers and Marina Bay Sands. Historic hotels now dot the low-rise landscape, offering interested visitors a place to immerse themselves in the past. The boutique offerings of the Unlisted Collection—Hotel 1929, New Majestic and Wanderlust—are found in restored shophouses and school buildings around Chinatown and Little India. “To me, these ethnic enclaves are unmistakably Southeast Asian and they feel original,” says Unlisted’s managing director, Loh Lik Peng. His approach in restoring old buildings is to “always show some scars of wear and tear to make things interesting”—such as the stripped and exposed lobby ceiling at the New Majestic that reveals previous generations of paintwork. “I lived abroad for a long time so I can’t help but get nostalgic about my childhood here,” Loh says. “While the past can never be brought back in totality, I go for a pastiche of old and new with the idea that the spirit of these buildings is retained.” At The Fullerton Hotel, the building’s spirit is revived three times a week, on hour-long, heritage tours of this grand 1928 Palladian monument that once housed a general post office, government offices, a lighthouse and a country club. “This is really the heart of where
FROM TOP: HOTELIER LOH LIK PENG; THE COFFEE CROWD AT CHYE SENG HUAT HARDWARE; A MOUTHFUL AT OLD KEONG SAIK SNACKS. OPPOSITE: WANDERLUST WAS A 1920’S SCHOOL.
FROM LEFT: A CUP OF PAPA PALHETA COFFEE AT CHYE SENG HUAT HARDWARE; TRIGGER HAPPY’S WINSTON CHAI AND JOHN CHAN PERUSE THEIR SINGLISH DICTIONARIES; THE NEW MAJESTIC HOTEL. OPPOSITE: HAJI LANE IN KAMPONG GLAM.
So much of the past is invisible and overlooked. Yes, this is a terrific, glitzy, hypermodern city—but that is only one layer of meaning to Singapore
Singapore blossomed into a bustling port town,” says Florence Minjoot, the effervescent Fullerton guide who takes me through the hotel’s iconic spots such as the Post Bar (the old Post Office hall) with its polished brass rails, and the elegant Straits Room (the old billiard room of the Singapore Club) with its high, coffered ceiling. The tours were launched as a result of frequent guest inquiries about the building’s history, and an expanded version, which includes other landmarks such as The Fullerton Waterboat House, Clifford Pier and Customs House, was later initiated to cater to this growing interest in Singapore’s past. Of course, the thing about nostalgia is that it’s interpretive, and what better contemporary commentary on old Singapore than the field of art and design? John Chan and Winston Chai of design-collective trigger happy came up with Singapore Souvenirs, a range of tongue-in-cheek concept tchotckes, for an exhibition three years ago. These products were so well-received that they now are sold commercially in museum shops and book stores. Their “Singlish” notebook contains a glossary of the vernacular English used in Singapore. Chan designed it deliberately to look like a hardcover Bible to give it an air of “formality and credibility,” he says. “We are taught that Singlish is ‘bad English’ but I feel that it is a reflection of our multicultural heritage; this interspersing of Chinese,
Malay and Indian colloquialisms into daily life has been going on for generations.” And the pencil erasers shaped like kueh tutu, a steamed rice flour pastry with shredded coconut filling—Chai, 33, created these because it’s a favorite old childhood snack of his that is getting harder to find. “I don’t want people to forget about its existence,” he says. “These products make a great starting point in helping foreigners understand Singaporean culture at a more intimate level,” Chai says. “We wanted to create souvenirs that really represented what is unique about Singapore. We didn’t want this country to be symbolized by Merlion paper holders or Boat Quay fridge magnets. It is so much more than that.” Adds Chan, 32: “With our parents, life was a lot more pragmatic: earning money, progressing and modernizing. But now that our generation has got everything materially, we are searching for ourselves and this inevitably leads back to our past, especially since things change so dramatically and quickly around here.” Maybe this is why one of the most popular haunts at the moment is Chye Seng Huat Hardware, whose name so appropriately means “to flourish again” in Hokkien. Local specialty coffee brand Papa Palheta has its roastery, tasting lab, school and coffee bar in this conserved Art Deco shophouse in the industrial area of Jalan Besar. Since its opening in August 2012, the latte-loving hordes who
flock here still baffle purveyor Leon Foo, who “never meant for Chye Seng Huat Hardware to become trendy. I figured giving it an industrial look would be a fitting way to complement this area’s hardware heritage,” he says. “Apparently, that makes it hipster.” Further strengthening Chye Seng Huat Hardware’s Brooklyn cred, the Singapore Memory Project recently held an event here called “The Greatest Story Ever Told.” Young folks brought their parents and grandparents down to tell their autobiographies and share memories in exchange for free coffee. Romanticizing the past seems to me a logical form of introspection in a city that predominantly focuses on the present and the future. As hotelier Loh points out, “after a while, all these shopping centers get dehumanizing. You can find all these branded boutiques in any other part of the world, and a sense of rootlessness sets in whether you are a local or a traveler.” That’s why I’m delving into my country’s history and seeking out the humanity. As a third-generation Singaporean, I want to know not just the sparkling success stories, but also the personal hopes and struggles of my predecessors as they attempted to build their dreams here. It is my way of making sense of my own personal history as well. This is what I tell the European and Australian tourists on my “Sultans of Spice” tour, who are surprised to see me, a local, doing the legwork with them. “Don’t you already know this place?” an elderly British lady asks. The answer, as with most things in life, is yes and no. I visit Kampong Glam occasionally to check out vintage clothes, chill over a pint or get my fix of spicy nasi padang. However, besides remnant textbook knowledge that this was once a Malay enclave, I never bothered to find out more about the area, to my own loss, I think. Yes, Singapore often enough seems to value efficiency over personality. But I know we’ve got one: ballsy with a hint of shyness, modern yet sentimental, and always, always evolving to stay on top of the game. And this is why reminiscing is important—not because the past was better, but because it draws out who we are and shows us where we came from. ✚
T+L Guide DO Visit the National Museum of Singapore for an overview of the city’s past. 93 Stamford Rd.; 65/63323659; nationalmuseum.sg; S$10 per adult. The Peranakan Museum tells the tales of Singapore’s original foreign traders and their (often mixed-race) descendants. 39 Armenian St.; 65/6332-7591; peranakanmuseum.org.sg; S$6 per adult. The Original Singapore Walks offers nine tours (including Sultans of Spice) through historical and cultural enclaves. 65/63251631; journeys.com.sg; from S$35 per adult. The Preservation of Monument Boards runs periodical public tours of
national monuments and architectural heritage sites. 65/6332-7953; S$5 per adult. If you prefer DIY touring, visit National Heritage Board for information on the marked heritage trails throughout the city. nhb.gov.sg. EAT AND DRINK Chye Seng Huat Hardware 150 Tyrwhitt Rd.; 65/63960609; cshhcoffee.com; coffee for two S$10. The Study 49 Keong Saik Rd.; 65/6221-8338; thestudy.sg; dinner for two S$120. STAY The Fullerton Hotel 1 Fullerton Sq.; 65/67338388; fullertonhotel.com; doubles from S$448; guided
heritage tours on Mondays and Thursdays at 10 a.m. and Saturdays at 5 p.m.; guided Maritime Journey tours on Fridays at 5 p.m. and Sundays at 10 a.m. New Majestic Hotel 31-37 Bukit Pasoh Rd.; 65/65114700; newmajestichotel. com; doubles from S$229. Wanderlust 2 Dickson Rd.; 65/6396-3322; wanderlusthotel.com; doubles from S$162. Hotel 1929 50 Keong Saik Rd; 65/6347-1929; hotel1929.com; doubles from S$136. SHOP Check out Wheniwasfour (wheniwasfour.com) and trigger happy (triggerhappy. sg) for locally made, retro products, and shop listings.
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OVERLOOKING BAGGAGE CLAIM IN TERMINAL 3 AT SINGAPORE’S CHANGI AIRPORT. OPPOSITE: THE FLIGHT-CONTROL TOWER.
IS THIS THE BEST AIRPORT IN THE WORLD? ↓
Singapore’s Changi is a paragon of modern, smooth-functioning, award-winning airport operation, but its appeal is deeper than that. Karrie Jacobs discovers the secret to airport success. PLUS Six more great terminals. photographed by darren soh
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hangi Airport, in Singapore, is the fifth busiest airport in the world. It serves more than 57 million passengers a year—about the same as New York City’s JFK—but very much unlike JFK, it is universally popular, beloved even. Changi has placed in the top three of the Skytrax “best airport” rankings for the past 15 years, and it topped the list for the fourth time again this year. Why? I recently spent several days at Changi trying to find out. In contrast to the airports that have gotten the most attention in recent years, such as Beijing’s international terminal (designed by Norman Foster) or Madrid Barajas Terminal 4 (designed by Richard Rogers), Changi doesn’t dazzle with architectural spectacle. As I stood on a moving walkway and glided past a lengthy expanse of green carpet, I wondered if I’d somehow arrived in the wrong airport. What does it even mean to be the best airport in the world? Efficiency is certainly at the top of the list. You want all the moving parts to work. Check-in should be flawless. Security procedures should be swift and rationally organized. You should be able to find your gate, your suitcase and anything else you need without thinking about it. And flights should take off and land more or less on schedule. But those tasks are the baseline; any airport, in theory, should be able to get them right. Being the best requires more. According to architect Bill Hooper, who heads the aviation practice at Gensler, a global firm and leader in airport design, the best terminals “anticipate what your needs are when you need them.” Those needs—the varied desires of tens of millions of travelers a year—might include plentiful daylight, comfortable seating, reliable free Wi-Fi, and good or even great restaurants. But there are also qualities that are harder to pin
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down, an aviation “it” factor. “When I fly through Munich, it’s crisp, but not so sterile as to be unwelcoming,” says Hooper of his personal favorite outside the United States. Another architect who designs airports for a living, Anthony Mosellie of Kohn Pedersen Fox, champions Hong Kong for the almost miraculous way it whooshes passengers from the train station in Central, where there’s an airline baggage check, to an airport that is famously a breeze to navigate. “The airport is a reflection of the mentality of Hong Kong,” Mosellie notes. Indeed, it was when I began to see Changi as a reflection of Singapore’s mentality that I really came to
appreciate the place. Staying at the exceptional Crowne Plaza Changi Airport (great swimming pool), I explored the public areas of the airport’s three terminals as I might an exotic urban neighborhood. And I could see that Changi’s goodness isn’t so much about how the place looks—although it definitely has its aesthetic moments—but how it feels. Somehow Singapore’s airport authority has managed to embed the island nation’s oxymoronic culture—call it technocratic humanism—into a transportation facility. No, Singapore’s airport isn’t as overtly futuristic as Seoul’s Incheon, nor does it have the calculated coziness of Amsterdam’s Schiphol. But it is of a piece with its city, at once hyper-organized and packed with carefully crafted pleasures. My most vivid memories of Changi are of the thousands of butterflies in the idyllic two-level Butterfly Garden in Terminal 3 (T3). One of five specialty gardens throughout the airport—others feature sunflowers, cacti, orchids and ferns—this one muffles airport din with a
waterfall and has a see-through “Emergence Enclosure” where the cocoons come of age. More than the airport’s two movie theaters, various TV-watching lounges and endless other diversions, this contrived encounter with nature was, for me, the antidote to that pickled sensation I get from spending a solid day in flight. Changi is also well-equipped for napping. All three terminals have dedicated areas such as the Snooze Lounge in T3, where travelers can stretch out on chaises for as long as they’d like. I dozed for a bit ahead of my 12:30 a.m. departure to Tokyo in T2’s Sanctuary, where upholstered chairs face a babbling indoor brook and mini
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: AN EXPERIENCERATING PANEL; OUTSIDE CHANGI’S TERMINAL 2; TRAVELERS IN TERMINAL 1; BAGGAGE CLAIM IN TERMINAL 3; THE BUTTERFLY GARDEN IN T3; AN AIRPORT EXPERIENCE AGENT; THE MULTISTORY SLIDE INSIDE T3; TERMINAL 3 DEPARTURES; ARTWORK AT A CHILDREN’S ACTIVITY STATION IN T2.
INSIDE THE BUTTERFLY GARDEN IN TERMINAL 3.
jungle of broad-leafed tropical plants. And it’s a terrific airport for eating: I had several memorable meals, including a credible version of the local specialty, Hainanese chicken rice. Mostly, though, Changi aims to be a place where people are happy to idle, whether they’re travelers with long layovers or—and this is the curious part—Singaporeans who want to do a little shopping or let their children loose in the public areas. “We are a land-scarce country,” explains Ivan Tan, who works in the airport’s communications department. Singaporeans regard Changi as “a big open space where kids can roam free,” he says. Indeed, T3 is stocked with a most amazing collection of toy stores and video arcades and a pay-to-enter playground with rides, long slides and surreal inflated animals, all accessible without passing through security. All of this is what the management refers to as the “Changi experience.” No, Changi isn’t beautiful, exactly—it’s humane. And humanity is something at which the staff works overtime. “Every day on the ground at Changi we conduct surveys,” Tan says. “We know when things don’t work.” Even objects offer surveys: every restroom, for instance, has a wall-mounted screen that says please rate your experience. Below that is a row of simple faces ranging from grinning to frowning. If you tap anything lower than “good” (a smile), you’ll get a questionnaire: Wet floor? No toilet paper? The real-time feedback means problems are solved very quickly. And, in theory, if you simply stand around looking perplexed, one of more than 200 iPad-wielding Changi Experience Agents—men in purple blazers and women in 42
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pink—will buttonhole you, ask what’s wrong and attempt to fix the problem. I had coffee with a couple of them who told me stories of helping passengers who’d missed flights or whose relatives were trapped in passport control with visa issues, or were simply looking for an outlet to charge a cell phone. In a small, densely populated nation like Singapore, little things count. Many of Changi’s best innovations are small and considerate, such as the charging stations with rows of little lockable boxes, so you can safely leave your cell phone while you wander the terminal. There are free foot-massage machines (socks on, please) on every concourse. Even the acres of carpeting are part of the thoughtful culture: you can tell you’ve crossed from one terminal to the next when the pattern shifts. I’ve come to realize that the amenities that make an airport exceptional are antithetical to the beeline nature of airports. And against all odds, Changi is as good at getting you in and out and on your way as it is at welcoming you to stay awhile. ✚
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Our Definitive Guide to
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Often written off as too staid, the city-state is continually evolving—its restaurants, night spots, hotels and other diversions leading Asia into the global spotlight, writes Christopher Kucway. Photographed by Darren Soh.
The fast-changing Keong Saik Road.
SINGAPORE
The W Singapore— Sentosa Cove. N
ORCHARD EAST COAST PARKWAY
CHINATOWN CLUB STREET
SINGAPORE STRAIT SENTOSA ISLAND 0
1.6 KM
Lay of the Land Chinatown Not just any old Chinatown, Singapore’s version is, well, clean. There’s an endless array of places to eat and— these days—stay and shop, but remember to go on walking tours early in the day or in the evening to avoid the equatorial heat. Orchard Road Abuzz with all things that epitomize the city’s modernity, this is airconditioned bliss if shopping for the latest labels is your thing. Club Street Cheek-by-jowl with Chinatown, this everchanging street is lined with restaurants and bars. Head a block or two further west for a fast-growing collection of even newer eateries. Sentosa A great stop when you have kids in tow, the place to get away from it all in Singapore has become crowded. Still, it’s good for a weekend break within the city. East Coast Parkway Crowded on weekends, and rightly so, the ECP is the spot for seafood—as any day at the beach should be.
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Stay Some hot new hotels in the city and a timeless favorite. W SINGAPORE Far-flung and funky, the design-centric hotel in all its eye-popping orange and purple is aimed at those in need of some fun in the sun. Head to Skirt, which specializes in meat and seafood dishes, such as saltbush lamb and any number of deep-sea fish. wsingaporesentosa cove.com; doubles from S$450.
HOTEL NAUMI LIORA A series of 10 interconnected and refurbished shophouses in a cool mixed
neighborhood adds up to 79 odd-shaped rooms with the latest mod-cons, plus free ice cream and coffee in the lobby. Book a Liora Porch room that opens out onto a slightly hidden outdoor deck above a shaded jogging path. naumiliora.com; doubles from S$215.
PARK ROYAL ON PICKERING Looking like a giant planter from street level, the hotel prides itself on its green focus. Its 367 guestrooms are finished largely in wood and stone, but what’s more
obvious on the plus side of its eco-ledger are recycling bins for plastic, glass and paper in each room. parkroyalhotels.com; doubles from S$420.
THE FOREST BY WANGZ If you’re looking more for a serviced apartment feel, even the 25-square-meter studios here come with modest kitchenettes, though the Molton Brown amenities and a clean, modern look that is standard throughout give off a hotel vibe. Walking distance to the
Novena MRT station. forestbywangz.com; doubles from S$275.
RAFFLES SINGAPORE A 127-year-old landmark, Raffles still radiates the same colonial elegance that grabbed the attention of literary legends like Rudyard Kipling, Ernest Hemingway and Alfred Hitchcock decades ago. Round out your classic stay with a sip of another classic: the original Singapore Sling at the two-story Long Bar. raffles.com; doubles from S$790.
ONE TO WATCH Sofitel So Singapore (sofitel.com) has opened, with modern Karl Lagerfeld touches adapted to what was a historic postal and telecommunications building.
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Shopping Beyond the obvious labels. WORLD SAVAGE The signs say it all in this hole-in-the-wall: this ain’t no museum. this junk’s for sale. Junk it is not—though anti-Orchard Road might prove a more apt description. Count on funky retro clothing for both men and women, fantastic jewelry finds that someone’s grandmother used to wear and other assorted oddities from around the world. worldsavage.com; 70 Bussorah St.; Bugis MRT.
INHABIT—THE OTHER STORE
From top: Outside the distinctive World Savage; inside the shop’s racks of vintage clothes; three clutches from Property Of...; a durable dufflebag from the shop.
Cool and sometimes hard-tofind labels—think Dion Lee and Les Aperizes—from beyond Singapore are on the racks here, for both men and women, and featuring established and emerging brands offering dressy and casual looks. 333A Orchard Rd.; Somerset MRT.
PROPERTY OF… Hardwearing travel bags and backpacks made of waxcloth and vegetable-tanned leather—in other words, perfect for tropical climates during the wet season. For a real splurge—it will set you back around S$900—invest in the brown leather backpack. Just don’t forget it on the MRT! thepropertyof.com; Orchard MRT.
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See Do B O T T O M : C H R I S T O P H E R K U C W AY. A B O V E : C O U R T E S Y O F P R O P E R T Y O F. . . ( 2 )
GILLMAN BARRACKS Revamped and worth a visit, this contemporary art hub is home to 14 galleries, but be sure to pop into The Drawing Room and the Sundaram Tagore Gallery, two nods to the international art scene. gillmanbarracks.com; 9 Lock Road; Labrador Park MRT.
An acrylic on wood Franz Kafka, by Lee Waisler at Sundaram Tagore Gallery, part of Gillman Barracks.
RED DOT DESIGN MUSEUM For something a bit more hands-on, head to this museum on Maxwell Road where more than 200 designs are on display. Don’t
On an art and culture crawl across the city, some hidden riches.
stop there: opt for a half- or full-day tour of designoriented stops in the neighborhood. The museum shop is interesting, veering from the terminally cute to items you wish you’d thought of. museum.red-dot.sg; Tanjong Pagar MRT.
SINGAPORE TYLER PRINT INSTITUTE Specializing in contemporary paper and print art, the institute offers several exhibitions each year, with world-renowned conceptual artist Rirkrit Tiravanija’s works
on view until June 28. There are also workshops dealing with topics such as fabric printing or etching. stpi.com. sg; by appointment only; closest MRT stop Clarke Quay.
MARINA BAY SANDS Monstrosity it may be, but the complex always has a lot to offer. Until October 19, the ArtScience Museum is hosting Annie Leibovitz: A Photographer’s Life 19902005, displaying almost 200 of her iconic photographic works. marinabaysands.com; Bayfront MRT.
GETTING AWAY FROM IT ALL Como Shambhala Urban Escape This little nook on Orchard Road offers yoga, Pilates, nutritional counseling and massage therapy, bringing a little bit of Bali from the COMO Shambhala Estate to the big city. comohotels.com.; Orchard MRT. T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
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From left: Hainanese chicken rice at Maxwell Road hawker center; beverage concoction at Waku Ghin.
Eat Everything from Basque pintxos to Australian burgers. FAT COW
CHARLIE & CO.
HAWKER CRAWL
Here’s proof that it’s not necessarily a bad thing to order a sashimi set at a restaurant that’s actually noted for its fine cuts of beef—slow grilled over charcoal or seared on the teppan. Just remember to book ahead. fatcow.com.sg; lunch or dinner for two S$100.
In an age when worrying about what’s in your meat is a cool concern, this Aussie import is a straight shooter. Order the New Yorker burger: grass-fed sirloin, aged cheddar, caramelized onions and the sea-salt fries with chili jam. charlieandco.com.au; lunch for two S$50.
TAMARIND HILL
ARTICHOKE CAFÉ+BAR/ OVERDOUGHS BAKERY AND DELI
Chinese, Indian, Malay or a mix of all three—everyone needs to eat a few dishes from each cuisine when in Singapore. One of the better ways to sample Singapore’s mix of flavors is at a hawker center such as Maxwell Road. Do not miss: char kway teow, bak chor mee, nasi lemak, laksa, biryani…stop when sated.
Perched atop Labrador Nature Reserve in the west of the city, the restaurant in a colonial bungalow serves fairly standard Thai cuisine but is worth a visit for the historical touches and tranquil setting. Book a table on the lanai with views out to sea. tamarindrestaurants.com; dinner for two S$160.
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Rugged, grungy and not always traditional is the description you’ll get of the café’s Moorish cuisine. Add to that: fun. Now the Overdoughs Bakery and Deli— really a counter in the sculpture garden outside—offers takeaway treats in the afternoons. artichoke. com.sg; dinner for two S$100.
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AFTER HOURS The Bar at Waku Ghin Can’t finagle a table at the restaurant? Drop into the mod bar for a cosmopolitan or two along with appetizers that start at S$20. Oh, and there’s four pages of whiskey listed by where it was distilled, so you might want to make a bit more room in your dayplanner. 65/6688-8507; drinks for two S$40. The Naked Finn Schedule your tour of Gillman Barracks later in the day and stick around for the minus 12 degrees Celsius coconut cocktail at The Naked Finn, and you’ll definitely feel far from the city. Snack on grilled seafood. nakedfinn.com; drinks for two S$35.
SPECIAL FEATURE
REFRESHED. RESTORED. REDEFINED. A modern masterpiece that embraces culture and traditions, Fairmont Singapore receives a new lease of life with a multi-million dollar renovation. Ideally situated at the crossroads of Singapore’s business, cultural, entertainment and shopping districts, with the City Hall Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) train station and other major transportation nodes at its doorstep, there is no better way to enjoy the captivating city than by staying at the heart of it all. Offering 769 luxurious guestrooms and suites, a collection of 15 distinctive restaurants and bars, as well as 70,000 square feet of prime meeting space, the options available are endless. Fairmont Singapore recently unveiled transformed spaces within the complex – including a vibrant new lobby, guestrooms and guestroom corridors in the North Tower of the hotel as well as a modern cocktail bar, that collectively feature a modern interpretation of the Peranakan culture which highlights a vibrant amalgamation of design elements that are distinctly and authentically local. An ethnic marriage of the Chinese and Malays, Peranakans are known for their distinctive customs and intricacy in their craft.
Inspired by the locale, traditional Peranakan motifs were reinterpreted in a modern way and carried through in the design of the various spaces. A further mix of vivacious art and light installations that adorn the areas not only highlight the diversity of cultures, but also reflect the integration of the cosmopolitan character and greenery of the city. A timeless design that cohesively combines modern day luxury with Singapore’s unique heritage, expect an elegant presentation of the past and present at the new Fairmont Singapore. From now till 30 December 2014, experience the new Fairmont Singapore with an introductory room offer with rates from S$318++. Visit www.fairmont.com/singapore or call +65 6837 3883 for reservations or more information.
80 Bras Basah Road, Singapore 189560 Tel: +65 6339 7777 | Fax: +65 6337 1554 | singapore@fairmont.com | www.fairmont.com/singapore
SINGAPORE
From left: Inside the pre-rebranding Keong Saik Snacks; mixing cocktails at the Cufflink Club; a chance to unearth a treasure at Tong Mern Sern Antiques Arts & Crafts.
Local Take Get the scoop on the city from three insiders.
You’ve not been to Singapore if you haven’t tried chili crab. Head to Melben Seafood (232 Ang Mo Kio Ave. 3; 65/6285-6762; dinner for two S$55) and order it—and butter crab and blackpepper crab too, if you have room. Keong Saik Street and its surrounds has been slowly gentrified over the past few years. Drop by Keong Saik Snacks—now The Study (49 Keong Saik Rd.; the-study.sg; dinner for two S$120) for classic British fare. For drinks, go to The Library (47 Keong Saik Rd.; 65/6221-8338; drinks for two S$35). It’s called an un-named bar, and you’ll need a password to get in.
Going Green 50
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MR. HAS
TRACY PHILIPS
Artistic Director W Singapore
Creative consultant, Present Purpose
Check out Kyo (133 Cecil St., #B1-02; 65/6225-6001; drinks for two S$35), where I love the basement underground feel that serves my favorite Hendrick’s gin and tonic with a dash of deep house music. Go early to avoid the long queue. If you are up for something more mellow, try Cufflink Club (6 Jiak Chuan Rd.; thecufflinkclub.com; drinks for two S$35), a bar setting with an extensive cheeky cocktail menu. Last but not least, don’t forget to check out Woobar at the W Singapore— Sentosa Cove. Sip and flirt while DJs spin until late.
I’m not a coffee drinker but The Plain (50 Craig Rd.; the plain.com.sg; lattes for two S$10) is the one place where I make an exception. They serve a generra, coffee with chocolate and orange zest that is heavenly. After the caffeine fix, head next door to Tong Mern Sern Antiques Arts & Crafts (51 Craig Rd.; tmsantiques.com)
to trawl the three-story shophouse and its array of treasures amassed since it opened in 1972. For repurposed furniture, travel a bit further outside of the city to the warehouse of Like That One (2 Bukit Batok St. 24).
To get a real sense that you’re near the equator and not in a big city, head to MacRitchie Reservoir Park and its walking trails that range between 3 and 11 kilometers. If you’re not afraid of heights, then opt for the TreeTop Walk, a journey that gives you a bird’s-eye view of the tropical forest surrounding the reservoir and takes between four and five hours to enjoy properly. nparks.gov.sg
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I L L U S T R AT I O N S B Y W A S I N E E C H A N TA K O R N
JIA EN TEO
Co-founder, Roomorama