December 2018 by Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia

Southeast asia

december 2018

All the Surf in

Siargao Snow-bound in Japan

Singapore S$7.90 / Hong Kong HK$43 Thailand THB175 / Indonesia IDR50,000 Malaysia MYR18 / Vietnam VND85,000 Macau MOP44 / Philippines PHP240 Burma MMK35 / Cambodia KHR22,000 Brunei BND7.90 / Laos LAK52,000

Best of 2018

New resorts, hotels, bars, restaurants, beach clubs

Andaz Tokyo Toranomon Hills

Do not simply travel the world. See it for all its dazzling colors. Taste its exotic flavors. Breathe in its scents, trace its surfaces. And listen to its peculiar and beautiful stories.

Andaz Xintiandi, Shanghai

Andaz Singapore

Visit andaz.com or contact your personal travel professional to book.

Feasts Fit for Royalty There’s so much culinary ground to cover in Macao, a weekend is definitely way too short. From local diners that have been around for generations to private kitchens to internationally acclaimed fine dining, Macao has it all. There are plenty of whitetablecloth restaurants to choose from: Start with the slew of leaders in French gastronomy. Add in pan-Asian heroes like Shinji by Kanasaka—the Michelin twostarred Tokyo sushi master. Take note that the best Italian in town is at Michelin one-starred Otto e Mezzo by Bombana, younger sibling of the Michelin threestarred spot in Hong Kong. Last year, Macao was named a UNESCO City of Gastronomy, and it’s little wonder, with all the Michelin and Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants winners. In fact, the city hosted the latter’s awards ceremony this year and will again in 2019, bringing international journalists and foodies for a taste of the diverse, delectable flavors. The wonderful mix of the rich culinary legacy covers the best regional Chinese restaurants, with a focus on Guangdong region, as well as authentic home-style Macanese restaurants and Portuguese heritage places, where the complex dishes tell the story of Portugal’s legacy: adventure, voyage and trade. These pages hold some top tables we recommend. It’s a pity there are only so many meals a person can have in a day. Try to stop by some places for an offhour snack... or maybe consider changing venues for each course!

The citrusy Nikkei cebiche at Aji.

Chef Mitsuharu Tsumura.

MGM Cotai MGM Cotai opened this year with 10 restaurants and bars under its stunning skylight roof, including some standouts from headlining chefs: Grill 58 by Michelin two-starred Mauro Colagreco of Mirazur in France (also No. 4 on the World’s 50 Best list); all-day dining Coast by celebrity chef Graham Elliot bringing the flavors of California to Macao; and desserts by Janice Wong. And Aji is a delicious mix of Japanese and Peruvian flavors from chef Mitsuharu Tsumura of Maido restaurant in Lima, which sits at No. 7 on the World’s 50 Best list.

Morpheus The latest opening on the Cotai strip, Morpheus hotel has a Pierre Hermé Lounge serving both savories and sweets. The pastry maestro was named World’s Best Pastry chef at the 2016 World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards. The gastro-decadence extends to breakfasts and room service—all taken care of by the Pierre Hermé team. Alain Ducasse at Morpheus restaurant is the French culinary master’s first fine-dining restaurant in Macao, alongside his more casual Voyages by Ducasse, a concept that made its debut here. The menu was inspired by his travels around the world over the past 30 years, with a focus on Asian flavors and spices. Expect a delightfully rich menu: our favorites include the shrimp toast with katsuobushi flakes, and the crab cake with sweet corn velouté.

Ispahan at Pierre Hermé Lounge

ADVERTORIAL

Wynn and Wynn Palace

Dining in Macao

The Eight offers pristine, playful dim sum.

The sister hotels Wynn and Wynn Palace together make for a gastronome’s dream. Do not miss the stewed fish maw with crab claw in Supreme chicken soup at Michelin two-starred Golden Flower at Wynn; it’s the essence of Cantonese flavors distilled in liquid form. Wing Lei Palace at Wynn Palace serves up some of the best Cantonese dishes you’ll find in Macao, from the lychee-wood barbecue roasts to dim sum and live seafood. If you can’t decide, go for the tasting menu. Carnivores will delight in SW Steakhouse, which serves the best cuts along with bountiful seafood, to the background of animatronic vignettes. Finally, enjoy a large tea selection and contemporary Sichuan food at Andrea or have the omakase menu at Sushi Mizumi at Wynn Palace.

Roasted Goose at Wing Lei Palace Grand Lisboa For southern Italian home cooking in a stylish, relatively casual setting, visit Casa Don Alfonso at Grand Lisboa. Where to go for the best yum cha? The Eight is a real treat: pristine dim sum arrives in the shape of adorable gold fishes, and crab noodles come with the smoky kiss of the wok. Meanwhile, Robuchon au Dome lives up to its reputation as the destination dining spot for Macao—many guests travel in by plane or ferry solely to dine here. Aside from the food, the wine list is unrivaled, an oenophile’s dream, an excellent selection at very fair prices.

Wing Lei Palace, a Cantonese heaven.

Macanese and Portuguese Fare If you fancy great food in a less formal setting, La Famiglia in Taipa Village serves up delicious home-style authentic Macanese cuisine. Fado at Hotel Royal serves up contemporary takes on Portuguese dishes, with many dishes cooked and presented at the table; our favorite is the Bacalhau à Bras—slivers of cod cooked tableside with eggs, garlic and skinny shoestring fries, garnished with parsley, black olives and chives. Yum! Finally, don’t leave out Macao institution Antonio’s, a Portuguese restaurant where chef Antonio himself sabres champagne and serves guests to the steady beat of live music and plenty of Portuguese red wine.

Portuguese flair at Antonio’s.

La Famiglia for Macanese.

MACAO TOURISM OFFICE OFFICE MACAO GOVERNMENT GOVERNMENT TOURISM

Address: Address: Alameda Alameda Dr. Dr. Carlos Carlos d’Assumpção, d’Assumpção, n.os n.os 335-341, 335-341, Edifício Edifício “Hot “Hot Line”, Line”, 12º 12º andar, andar, Macao Macao www.macaotourism.gov.mo || mgto@macaotourism.gov.mo mgto@macaotourism.gov.mo || Tel: Tel: +853 +853 2831 2831 5566 5566 || Fax: Fax: +853 +853 2851 2851 0104 0104 || Tourism Tourism Hotline: Hotline: +853 +853 2833 2833 3000 3000 www.macaotourism.gov.mo

3 Nagas Luang Prabang

INSPIRED STORIES

MGALLERY BY SOFITEL IS A COLLECTION OF BOUTIQUE HOTELS DEDICATED TO LOVERS OF LIFE, LITERATURE AND CULTURE. EACH EXUDES CHARM, CHARISMA AND A PROFOUNDLY LOCAL CHARACTER THROUGH ARTFUL DESIGN, SIGNATURE CUISINE AND COCKTAILS, AND MEMORABLE MOMENTS. AND EACH IS A GATEWAY TO A BYGONE ERA, A HIDDEN HAVEN, OR A SPECTACULAR NATURAL LANDSCAPE. A timeless experience in the heart of Laos’ cherished cultural

or balcony with postcard-perfect views. Located on the central

centre, 3 Nagas Luang Prabang promises a journey through

heritage street of Luang Prabang, guests can enjoy glimpses of

history. Surrounded by lush, wooded hills at the confluence of

authentic local culture and tradition, such as Buddhist monks

the Nam Khan and Mekong Rivers, the hotel embodies a touch

passing the hotel as they collect morning alms.

of mythological lure, with ‘nagas’ being fabled serpent spirits protecting the ancient town. The property’s elegant beauty is

Located in Myanmar’s new capital, The Lake Garden Nay Pyi Taw

enhanced with exotic wood flooring, traditional ‘torchis’ walls

is a serene escape for travellers and world leaders alike.

and clay roof tiles. Its three refurbished homes, each over 100

From the luxurious Presidential Suite to the elegant Superior

years old, mark the bygone colonial era of Luang Prabang,

Rooms, indulgent sleep is assured through exceptionally fine

blending vintage French architecture and classic Lao design. The

materials and state-of-the-art technology. Showing a passion

Lamache House, shaded by mango trees, and the Khamboua

for exceptional dining, Primo Italian restaurant creates an

House offer just 12 Deluxe Rooms and 3 Executive Suites,

impressive selection of authentic Italian cuisine, while The Oak

each well-appointed and complimented by a private terrace

Room offers signature cocktails, martinis and vintage whiskeys,

The Lake Garden Nay Pyi Taw

as well as one of the country’s finest selections of cigars. As the administrative centre of Myanmar, Nay Pyi Taw is a popular destination for conferences and events. Just two kilometres from Myanmar International Convention Centre and with its own selection of exceptional venues that can host up to 300 guests, the hotel is ideal for MICE travel. Boasting incomparable views of the Vietnam’s famous terraced paddy fields, the opening of the Hôtel de la Coupole brings a new level of hospitality to the region. The only 5-star international hotel in Sapa, it fuses local culture, French history and a vibrant ambiance into one impressive destination. Modern and comfortable, rooms are uniquely decorated with hill tribesinspired design touches and feature balconies overlooking the quaint town or the inner gardens. Entertainment options within the hotel are excellent, with two floors of retail shopping and a unique selection of bars and restaurants. Outside, travellers

Legacy Yen Tu

can revel in a nature-lover’s playground with easy access to trekking, waterfalls, and the Fansipan cable car for up-close

Imbued with the rich heritage and culture of the region, Legacy

views of the dramatic peaks.

Yen Tu takes guests on an enchanting journey back in time. A monument to Tran Royal Dynasty architecture and designed with meticulous attention to detail, the resort is crafted from wood, copper, stone and Vietnamese ceramics for an atmosphere that’s in harmony with its surrounds. Just an hour from Vietnam’s Ha Long Bay at the foot of Yen Tu Mountain, it’s long been a place to escape daily stresses and refresh the body, mind and spirit. Today, the grounds surrounding the resort maintain that peaceful ideal with a Zen garden, a meditation and prayer hall, and an upcoming wellness centre specialising in herbal baths and detoxification. In the village, guests can also enjoy authentic Vietnamese and international restaurants, local retail shops, or board a cable car to the top of the mountain for an entirely new perspective.

Hôtel de la Coupole

For more information, visit mgallery.com or accorhotels.com

T+L WORLD’S BEST AWARDS 2019

VOTE FOR YOUR TRAVEL FAVORITES TLWorldsBest.com/intl

vote now!

For your favorite hotels, resorts, cities, airlines, cruise lines and destinations you love—in the only truly global travel survey that matters. Dear Travel+Leisure Southeast Asia readers, Readers of all global editions of Travel+Leisure will participate in the awards, so this is your chance for Southeast Asia’s voice to be heard. So visit TLWorldsBest.com/intl and tell us exactly what you think. The full global results will be published in our August issue.

LEIGH GRIFFITHS

We trust you. We trust your judgement. That’s why we want you to rate our global travel experiences for us, in the Travel+Leisure World’s Best Awards, now through March 4, 2019. These awards are recognized as travel’s highest honor, so it’s time to give back to those hotels, resorts, cities, airlines, cruise lines and destinations you love the most.

December

contents

features

Time and Tide If serene surfing center Siargao isn’t already on your radar, it will be very soon. Jeninne Lee-St. John heads to the eastern edge of the Philippines where the currents roll in uninterrupted. Photographed by Scott A. Woodward

86 112 c l o c k w i s e f r o m t o p l e f t: c o u r t e s y o f j n t o ; f e d e r i c o c i a m e i ; l u c y h e w e tt; s c o tt a . w o o d wa r d

74 100

Winter, Winter Everywhere For the best skiing in Japan, head beyond Hokkaido with Adam H. Graham to micro-resorts with nearly empty slopes and daily free refills of the dreamiest powder you’ll ever encounter.

100

This is Chicago The vital metropolis is famous for its warmth and openness, but also for growing, striving, collaborating and embracing the new. Photographed by Lucy Hewett

112

The Art of the City Florence is recasting itself as a 21stcentury global hub. By David Amsden. Photographed by Federico Ciamei

ON THE COVER

At Nay Palad Hideaway, Siargao, Philippines. Photographed by Scott A. Woodward.

tr av el andleisure asia .com / december 2018

contents In Every Issue

T+L Digital 14 Contributors 16 The Conversation 18 Editor’s Note 20 Deals 67 Wish You Were Here 130

New Zealand by rail; island-hop across the Indian Ocean in a private jet; a Southeast Asian focus at Singapore Art Week; highlights of Seoul’s starred restaurants; and more.

28 State of the Art At the inaugural Bangkok Art Biennale, worldclass artworks adorn the city’s most historic locations.

32 World’s Best Awards: Islands The annual T+L poll results revealed your favorite islands, with Asia scoring top honors.

33 A Home Among the Gum Trees With botanic gardens as a front yard and just 12 thoughtfully

designed rooms, this boutique hotel in Melbourne’s South Yarra is a cozy place to call your own.

The Place 122 Macau Mania Constantly

reinventing itself, Macau goes far beyond its reputation as a casino city. New developments— such as the just-launched bridge from Hong Kong to Zhuhai—the burgeoning arts scene and vibrant dining culture inspired our comprehensive guide to the former Portuguese colony.

40 Another Side of Croatia The

best way to explore the varied wonders (and less visited coastal towns) of the Adriatic is on this weeklong cruise.

Special

47 Best of 2018 We explore the

hottest new openings of the year, from high-end hotels providing luxury enclaves in new cities to drinking and dining spots offering a fresh take on traditional cuisines, sustainable menus and creative cocktails.

december 2018 / tr av el andleisure asia .com

f r o m l e f t: c o u r t e s y o f k i w i r a i l ; g a r e th s o b e y; c o u r t e s y o f s i x s e n s e s ; l e i g h g r i f f i ths

23 Reasons To Travel Now Travel

t+ L d igi ta l

Lookout

Visit This Unspoiled Thai Island Before Word Gets Out Unmarred by mass tourism, Koh Mook in Thailandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s south offers stunning scenery and a laid-back vibe.

Six Senses Launched in Singapore and It is a Stunner The luxury brand best known for wellness-focused resorts in remote locales is bringing the same ethos to the city.

This Indonesian Eco-Resort Is a Game-Changer Take a green getaway to Bawah, an all-inclusive private-island resort 90 minutes from Singapore.

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f r o m l e f t: i a n l l o y d n e u b a u e r ; s c o tt a . w o o d wa r d ( 2 )

this month on tr avel andleisureasia.com

The ultimate 2018 gift guide; artisanally crafted Southeast Asian culinary delights; a new luxury resort in Flores, Indonesia, gets you closer to the Komodo dragons; eat your way through Michelin-starred Guangzhou; and more.

contributors

Adam H. Graham

Lindy Alexander

“Winter, Winter Everywhere” Page 86 — Graham, who usually skis at charming Swiss resort Leinzerheide, a Roger Federer favorite, explores Japan’s slopes beyond Niseko. One way snow culture here differs from in the West: “the skiers shred the catwalks, while the blue trails are peppered with cautious new snowboarders.” His post-ski soak is a favorite indulgence. “The bare bones, open-air Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen on the island of Yakushima, which inspired anime classic Princess Mononoke, is in the ocean in a makeshift rockpool, with crashing waves in reach, and only accessibly for two hours at low tide. #OnlyInJapan.” Instagram: @adamgraham.

“A Home Among the Gum Trees” Page 33 — In South Yarra, “a little oasis of green next to Melbourne with great shopping and dining,” Alexander visited the new United Places, which is “leading the charge in personalized hotels that make you feel at home but also offer luxury. The Urban Penthouse suite has a black-stone tub overlooking the Royal Botanic Gardens. If you’re feeling timorous you can always lower the blind, to look out but not in.” With in-house restaurant Matilda, she says, “chef Scott Pickett is trying to achieve simple, earthy flavors always connected to the element of fire.” Instagram: @lindyalexanderwriter.

Scott A. Woodward

Juliana Loh

“Time and Tide” Page 74 — “As soon as I arrived on Siargao, I was reminded how much I relish Philippine island life: the golden sunshine, the sea breeze, pristine beaches—and the generosity and warmth of the Filipinos.” Prime example: “Flo Flo, one of Nay Palad’s fantastic staff who also moonlighted as one of our models.” Best memory? “We rode to Mamon Island on Nay Palad’s yacht and spent the day swimming and paddleboarding in the clear water, before a seafood barbecue on the sand by a resort chef. Then it was off to Naked Island for sunset. The day was magic.” Instagram: @iamscottawoodward.

“The Place: Macau” Page 122 — Since Loh moved to Macau in 2012, the lavish casino-hotels that had been planned on the Cotai Strip have all opened. “With better infrastructure, healthy competition brings more foot traffic than causes rivalry. Also, the focus has shifted to cultural and leisure activities.” Favorite meals? “Robuchon au Dome, in the Grand Lisboa. Get the guinea fowl to share, which comes with decadent buttery mashed potatoes.” Or, head to historic district St. Lazarus to the yellow, colonial villa of Albergue 1601, a Portuguesefood institution. For street snacks, she says, go with wonton noodles. Instagram: @chickenscrawlings.

P h o to gr a p h er

W r i t er

f r o m t o p : c o u r t e s y o f a d a m h . g r a h a m ; c o u r t e s y o f l i n d y a l e x a n d e r ; c o u r t e s y o f s c o tt a . w o o d wa r d ; c o u r t e s y o f j u l i a n a l o h

W r i t er

SANTA, PLEASE GRANT MY WISH This Christmas, hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s my wish. Nothing more and nothing less, but to be back to my second home, reunited with my Bali family, enjoying tropical breeze with a cocktail in hand in the comfort of my daybed. All I wish for Christmas, is to be back at Padma Resort Legian.

PadmaResortLegian.com

Padma Resort Legian

@PadmaLegian

t h e c o nv e r s at i o n

The long-haul flight just keeps getting longer. This year, Singapore Airlines launched the world’s longest flight (19 hours!) from the city-state to New York. And Qantas revealed plans for a 20-hour trip from Sydney to London in 2020. On-board gyms, child-care facilities and economy bunk beds are ideas to help temper the journey. While it’s just a pipe dream (or nightmare) at this stage, here are a few tips to avoid cabin fever.

Check your liquids You don’t have to scull liters of water to stay hydrated on board. Avoid coffee and alcohol, of course. And carry on produce with high water content, like apples, grapes, strawberries, melon or celery— just be sure to finish them before you land to avoid any issues at customs.

You’re so vain (but it’s ok) If you want to disembark feeling freshfaced, you’re going to need to bring your beauty haul on-board. We’re talking face masks, facial mists, a heavy-duty moisturizer and a reliable lip balm, plus dry shampoo to combat greasy locks.

Learn the art of mindfulness Meditation will help drown out the noise and set you up for a quality sleep. Use relaxation apps like Headspace and Calm to help increase awareness and rewire your brain as you enter a new time zone.

#TLASIA

Watch what you eat Singapore Airlines has swapped potatoes for more hydrating sides like cauliflower, and lowered sodium in meals to prevent dehydration, which can cause fatigue, headaches and muscle aches. Try to eat at your regular meal time to avoid digesting while you sleep.

From busy cities to the bay, we love seeing Asia from your point of view.

The best way to see the Maldives is by boat. By @jetsetchristina.

From the city to the jungle in Kuala Lumpur. By @vivi_gan.

Waiting by the docks in Tam Coc, Vietnam. By @srnofer8.

Diving into the marigolds of Delhi. By @jaithakurpix.

Share an Instagram photo by using the #TLAsia hashtag, and it may be featured in an upcoming issue. Follow @travelandleisureasia

PREFERRED HOTELS & RESORTS WARMLY WELCOMES

Travel means dreaming of what comes next. Milestones are set beside the road not to commemorate how far you have come, but to mark the distance to the destination ahead. At Preferred Hotels & Resorts, we are proud to celebrate five decades of travel and hospitality. It is a landmark that comes amid great change in how, where, and why we travel. Thank you for taking this journey with us.

H O T E L C H I N Z A N S O T O K YO Tokyo, Japan

D I S C OV E R Y P R I M E A , M A N I L A Makat i, Philippines

ÂŠ 2018 Preferred Hotels & Resorts

18_377

T H E SA N C H AYA Bintan, Indonesia

P R E F E R R E D H O T E L S . C O M

editor’s note

A Grand Deluxe room at The Capitol Kempinski.

From My Travels

@CKucway chrisk@mediatransasia.com

d ec e m b e r 2 0 1 8 / t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m

f r o m l e f t: I r fa n S a m a r t d e e ; c h r i st o p h e r k u c way

rom the still-uncrowded waters surrounding Siargao to the off-the-beaten-piste white powder on the slopes of Japan, we aim to take in the entire spectrum of Asia in our 11th anniversary issue this month. As with most of our stories, these two share the urge of getting away from it all, though they also follow paths that, at first, aren’t obvious. On Siargao (“Time and Tide,” page 74), at the eastern limits of the Philippines, the seclusion is just as relevant as the surf. That off-the-map feel is primed to change, though developers insist they are taking a better thoughtout approach than is found on some of Asia’s more popular getaways. At the other end of the temperature scale, it will likely surprise you to know that 36 of Japan’s 47 prefectures offer ski resorts (“Winter, Winter Everywhere,” page 86). Yes, there’s more than Niseko if you’re in search of perfectly groomed, often empty ski runs, and the insider’s list of snowbound Japanese resorts is only growing. That our travel options around Asia grew exponentially in the past year is an understatement, something we break down in the “Best of 2018” (page 47). Here, you’ll find the new luxury abodes taking over our favorite cities, fresh party paradises in Bali, plus the region’s latest drinking and dining hotspots. Spoiler alert: the coming year promises to be just as innovative when it comes to travel around Asia.

I stopped by The Capitol Kempinski Hotel (kempinski. com) on a visit to Singapore, my first time at the newly opened property without a hard hat. I had seen the revamped address a few years ago but legal delays prevented the doors from actually opening. That’s a shame since the hotel is a beautiful restoration of two historic structures—the Capitol Building and Stamford House—with all the mod-cons you would expect from a new hotel. Be sure to book a Grand Deluxe room, which comes with its own terrace thanks to the historic nature of this project.

editor-in-chief art director Deput y editor Features editor senior DEsigner

Christopher Kucway Wannapha Nawayon Jeninne Lee-St. John Eloise Basuki Chotika Sopitarchasak

Regul ar contributors / photogr aphers Cedric Arnold, Kit Yeng Chan, Marco Ferrarese, Duncan Forgan, Lauryn Ishak, Grace Ma, Morgan Ommer, Aaron Joel Santos, Scott A. Woodward, Stephanie Zubiri chairman president publishing director publishER digital media manager TRAFFIC MANAGER / deputy DIGITAL media manager sales director busines s de velopment manager regional manager chief financial officer circul ation as sistant

J.S. Uberoi Egasith Chotpakditrakul Rasina Uberoi-Bajaj Robert Fernhout Pichayanee Kitsanayothin Varin Kongmeng Joey Kukielka Leigha Proctor Paul Adams Gaurav Kumar Yupadee Saebea

TRAVEL+LEISURE (USA) Editor-in-Chief Senior Vice President, News, Luxury, st yle

Nathan Lump Meredith Long

meredith partnerships, LICENSING & syndication (syndication@meredith.com) Busines s affairs director director, licensing oper ations editorial director e xecutive director, content management

Tom Rowland Richard Schexnider Jack Livings Paul Ordonez

meredith Chairman and ceo president and coo chief content officer editorial director, lifest yle group e xecutive vice presidents

Steve Lacy Tom Harty Alan Murray Nathan Lump Brad Elders, Lauren Ezrol Klein

tr avel+leisure southeast asia Vol. 12, Issue 12 Travel+Leisure Southeast Asia is published monthly by Media Transasia Limited, 1603, 16/F, Island Place Tower, 510 Kingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Road, North Point, Hong Kong. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording or any information storage or retrieval systems, without permission in writing from the Publisher. Produced and distributed by Media Transasia Thailand Ltd., 14th Floor, Ocean Tower II, 75/8 Soi Sukhumvit 19, Sukhumvit Road, Klongtoeynue, Wattana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand. Tel: 66-2/204-2370. Printed by Comform Co., Ltd. (66-2/368-2942â&#x20AC;&#x201C;7). Color separation by Classic Scan Co., Ltd. (66-2/291-7575). While the editors do their utmost to verify information published, they do not accept responsibility for its absolute accuracy. This edition is published by permission of Meredith 225 Liberty Street, 8S-212 B, New York, New York, 10286, U.S.A. Tel. 1-212/522-1212 Online: www.meredith.com Reproduction in whole or in part without consent of the copyright owner is prohibited. subscriptions Enquiries: www.travelandleisuresea.com/subscribe ADVERTISING offices General enquiries: advertising@mediatransasia.com Singapore: 65/9029 0749; joey@mediatransasia.com Japan: Shinano Co., Ltd. 81-3/3584-6420; kazujt@bunkoh.com Korea: YJP & Valued Media Co., Ltd. 82-2/3789-6888; hi@yjpvm.kr

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Rumah Bolon (the house ofidentity Bolon) is an identity Rumah Bolon house of Bolon) is anin symbol of all (the symbol the all people the times, Batak living people North living Sumatra. In Batak theofancient Rumah Bolonin North symbol of all the Batak people living in North symbol of all the Batak people living in North Sumatra. In the Sumatra. ancient In times, the Bolon Rumah housed 13 kings who livedancient inRumah Northtimes, Sumatra. Its Bolon Sumatra. Inkings the ancient times, Rumah Bolon Sumatra.13Inkings the ancient times, Rumah Bolon housed housed who lived 13 in North who lived Sumatra. in North Its Sumatra. Its unique shape, with the iconic tapered roof, housed 13 kings who lived in roof, North Sumatra. Its housed 13 kings who lived in North Sumatra. Its tapered unique shape, unique with the shape, iconic with tapered the iconic roof, becomes an icon as you come to visit Lake Toba. unique shape, with the iconic tapered roof, unique shape, with the iconic tapered roof, becomes an icon becomes as you an come icontoas visit youLake come Toba. to visit Lake Toba. becomes icontoas youLake come to visit Lake Toba. becomes an icon as you an come visit Toba.

4. Ulos Toba 4. Ulos Toba One Toba part4. ofUlos the Toba culture that has become a 4. Ulos Toba 4. Ulos Toba One part of the One Toba part culture of that Toba has culture become thata has become a true style icon is Ulosthe that has been passed from One part of theisthat Toba culture that become a One part of the culture has become a has true style icon true is Toba Ulos that icon has been Ulos passed that hasfrom been passed from generation tostyle the next by the Batak people in true style icon is Ulos that has been passed from true style icon is Ulos that has been passed from generation to generation the next by to the the Batak next people by the Batak in people in North Sumatra. In local dialect, ulos cloth. people It the next bymeans the Batak generation to generation the next bytothe Batak people in North Sumatra. North In local Sumatra. dialect, In ulos local means dialect, cloth. ulos It means cloth.in It has a dominant color of red, black and white and North Sumatra. In local dialect, ulos means cloth. It North Sumatra. In local dialect, ulos means cloth. It has a interspersed dominanthas color awith dominant ofgold red, or black color and of red, white black and and white and silverof threads. has a dominant color black and white and has a dominant color of black and white and interspersed with interspersed gold orred, silver with threads. gold orred, silver threads. interspersed withthreads. gold or silver threads. interspersed with gold or silver

4 4

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6 6

5. Kualanamu Railink

Access5. to Kualanamu Lake Toba has gotten a lot better with the 6 5. Kualanamu Railink Railink 6 Access Kualanamu Railink 5. Kualanamu Railink Railink train from Kualanamu Airport to better Medan, to Lake5. Access Toba has to Lake gotten Toba a lot has better gotten with a lot the with the

Access to Lake Toba has gotten aAirport lot the Access to Lakefrom Toba has gotten aAirport lot better with thebetter before continuing your journey other public Railink train Railink Kualanamu train from Kualanamu towith Medan, to with Medan, Railink train from Kualanamu Airport to Medan, Railink train from Kualanamu Airport to Medan, before continuing before your continuing journey your with other journey transportations from downtown Medanpublic towith Lakeother Toba.public before continuing your journey with to other before continuing your journey with other public transportations transportations from downtown from Medan downtown to Medan Toba. Toba. The train station at the airport isLake connected toLake thepublic transportations from downtown Medan to Lake Toba. nd transportations from downtown Medan to Lake The trainmain station The attrain the airport at is connected the on airport is the connected the building bystation 2 travelators the to 2Toba. floor whichto The train station at the airport is connected to the nd nd The train station at the airport is connected to the main building by main 2 travelators building byon 2 the travelators 2 the onwhich the 2 floor which floor provides great convenience for passengers. main building by 2 the travelators the 2nd floor which main building 2 travelators on 2nd floor which provides greatby provides convenience greatfor convenience the passengers. foron the passengers. greatfor convenience for the passengers. provides great provides convenience the passengers.

6. Silangit International Airport 6. Silangit International Airport Getting6. toSilangit Lake Toba International is even easier withAirport the Silangit Silangit Airport 6. Silangit International Getting to Lake6. Getting Toba isto even LakeInternational easier Toba with is even theeasier Silangit with North the Silangit International Airport, in Airport Siborong-Borong,

7 7

8 8

Getting toeven Lake Toba with is even easier with the Silangit Getting to LakeAirport, Toba easier the Silangit International International Siborong-Borong, Airport, Siborong-Borong, North Tapanuli. Theis in airport now in serves a number of North International Airport, in Siborong-Borong, North International in Siborong-Borong, North Tapanuli. The Airport, Tapanuli. airport now The serves airport anow number serves of a number of international flights, one of them from Kuala Lumpur, Tapanuli. The airport now serves a number of Tapanuli. The airport now serves a number of international flights, international one flights of them flights, from one Kuala of them Lumpur, from Kuala Lumpur, as well as direct from Jakarta. international flights, one of them from Kuala Lumpur, international flights, of them from Kuala Lumpur, as well as direct asflights wellone as from direct Jakarta. flights from Jakarta. well as direct flights from Jakarta. as well as directasflights from Jakarta.

7 7

7. The Beautiful Simarjarunjung Hill 7. TheTaking Beautiful 7.pictures TheSimarjarunjung Beautiful Simarjarunjung Hill with the exotic Lake Toba in theHill 7. Thegets Beautiful Simarjarunjung Hill 7. Thepictures Beautiful Simarjarunjung Hill Taking Taking with pictures the exotic with Lake the Toba exotic in Lake the Toba backgrounds more exciting with the many photoin the

Taking pictures with the exotic Lake Toba in the Taking pictures with the Lake Toba in the backgrounds backgrounds more exciting gets with more the exciting many photo with theHill many spotsgets available. Theexotic beautiful Simarjarunjung willphoto backgrounds gets more exciting with the manyHill photo backgrounds gets more exciting with the many photo spots available. spots The beautiful available. Simarjarunjung The beautiful Simarjarunjung Hill will provide a different experience in enjoying Lake Toba. will spots available. The beautiful Simarjarunjung Hill will spots available. The beautiful Simarjarunjung Hill will provide a different provide experience apoints, different in enjoying experience Toba. enjoying Lake Toba. Colorful photo murals, and Lake 3D,inas well as some provide aphoto different experience insome enjoying Lake Toba. provide a different experience in enjoying Lake Toba. Colorful photo points, Colorful murals, points, and 3D, murals, as well and as 3D, as well as some interesting themes, will put colors to your social Colorful photo points, murals, and 3D, as as social some Colorful media photo points, murals, and 3D, as as some interesting themes, interesting put themes, colors will to well put your colors social to well your posts. will interesting themes, will put colors to your social interesting themes, will put colors to your social media posts. media posts. media posts. media posts.

8. Tombs of The Batak Royalty 8. Tombs of8.The Tombs Batak of The Royalty Batak The history of the Batak people, can beRoyalty followed here. 8. Tombs of The Batak Royalty 8. of The Batak Royalty TheTombs history of the The Batak history people, of the can Batak be people, followed can here. behistorical followed here. Ambarita village is one of the must-visit

8 8

9 9

The history of the thecan Batak can be followed here. The historyvillage of the Batak people, be people, followed here. Ambarita Ambarita is one of is must-visit one ofofthe historical historical spots where youvillage can see traces themust-visit reign of Raja Ambarita village one oftraces the must-visit historical Ambarita village is one oftraces the is must-visit historical spots where you spots can where see you can of the see reign of of Raja the reign of Sidabutar, the king that is believed to beofthe first manof Raja spots where you can see traces the reign Raja spots where you can see traces of the reign of man Raja Sidabutar, the king Sidabutar, that is the believed king that to be is the believed first to be the first man to set foot on Samosir Island. Sidabutar, king that is the believed to be the first man Sidabutar, king that is the believed to be first man to set foot the on Samosir to set foot Island. on Samosir Island. to set foot on Samosir Island. to set foot on Samosir Island.

9. The Sigale-Gale Dance 9. TheCulture Sigale-Gale 9.in The Sigale-Gale Dance Dance Lake Toba is just as unique. The Sigale-Gale The Sigale-Gale Dance 9. Theindance Sigale-Gale Dance Culture Lake9. Culture Toba is in just Lake as unique. Toba is just The as Sigale-Gale unique. The Sigale-Gale for example, where a human-shaped puppet

Culture Lake Toba where is just unique. The Sigale-Gale Culture in Lake Toba where is in just as unique. The as Sigale-Gale dance for example, dance example, a human-shaped a music. human-shaped puppet puppet dances to thefor rhythm of traditional The dance, dance for example, where a human-shaped dance for example, where a rhythm human-shaped puppet dances to the rhythm dances of to traditional the music. of traditional The dance, music. Thepuppet dance, commonly performed during traditional and cultural dances to the rhythm of traditional music.and Thecultural dance, dances to the rhythm of traditional music. Thetraditional dance, commonly performed commonly during performed traditional during and cultural events,commonly makes a captivating attraction in Samosir. performed during traditional and cultural commonly performed during traditional and cultural events, makes aevents, captivating makes attraction a captivating in Samosir. attraction in Samosir. makes a captivating attraction in Samosir. events, makes aevents, captivating attraction in Samosir.

REASONS TRAVEL NOW december 2018

T+L’s monthly selection of trip-worthy places, experiences and events.

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After a two-year hiatus, a beloved New Zealand railway is back in action. KiwiRail’s Coastal Pacific route has been closed since 2016, when the Kaikoura earthquake caused severe damage to the line. The journey finally restarts this month, departing daily through the end of April. This epic 350-kilometer ride links Christchurch and the beach town of Picton—a six-hour scenic journey that meanders along the coastline between the mountains and the sea. From Picton, hop on the ferry and connect to the Northern Explorer train, which goes all the way to Auckland. It’s one of the best—and most beautiful—ways to see the diversity of the countryside. greatjourneysofnz.co.nz.

COUR T E S Y OF K IWIRAIL

The reopened Coastal Pacific line on New Zealand’s South Island.

tr av el andleisure asia .com / december 2018

r e a s o n s t o t r av e l n o w

Industrialstyle interiors at Mosu Seoul.

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These are the latest restaurants in Seoul to see stars. Michelin stopped by the South Korean capital for its annual awards in October. While favorites like Gaon and La Yeon kept their three-star-status, seven restaurants were given new stars. Here is our pick of the glitter.

Mingles ★★ Celebrated chef Mingoo Kang is known for “mingling” European, Japanese and Korean cooking methods, like the “Jang Trio” dessert: doen-jang (brined soy bean) crème brûlée, soy pecan, gochujang (chili paste) rice puff, and whisky foam. restaurant-mingles.com; set dinner menu W150,000. Alla Prima ★★ Trading up from one star to two this year, this Italian-Asian fusion restaurant is famous for creative plates served to a backdrop of Chef Kim Jin-hyuk’s open kitchen. A private dining room also adds to the fine-dining ambience. 62-2/511-2555; 42-6 Nonhyeon-dong, Gangnam; set dinner menu W138,000. Lee Jong Kuk 104 ★ With a dining space “reminiscent of a Modern Art gallery,” chef Lee Jong Kuk claimed a star for his made-

from-scratch ingredients and attention to detail. Case in point: soy sauce brushes are made from freshly-picked aromatic pine needles. 62-2/747-0104; 95-1 Seongbuk-Ro, Seongbuk-Gu; set dinner menu from W200,000. Hansikgonggan ★ Known as the godmother of Korean cuisine, chef Cho Hee-suk has crafted a menu striking the balance between traditional flavors and modern plating, while restaurant views overlook Changdeokgung Palace. fb.com/hansikgonggan; set dinner menu W120,000. Mosu ★ After moving his San Francisco restaurant closer to family in Seoul last year, chef Sung Anh’s new venue impressed Michelin reviewers, who shouted out his dehydrated burdock cracker with cultured butter. mosu seoul.com; set dinner menu W240,000.

december 2018 / tr av el andleisure asia .com

Docking the final addition to its trinity of luxury transport, The Peninsula Hong Kong has launched its own 19-meter, 15-passenger yacht, which joins the hotel’s fleet of RollsRoyce, and its customized helicopter. Guests can board The Sunseeker Manhattan 60 for a daily sunset cruise with canapés and free-flow drinks—or if you want to take your own party to sea, charter the whole thing. Personalize your tour for private functions, cocktail receptions, photoshoots or even onboard massage therapy. peninsula.com; two-hour Harbour Sunset cruise HK$1,400 for adults and HK$600 for children; private charter from HK$15,000 per hour with a minimum four-hour booking.

c lo c k w i s e f r o m to p l e f t : c o u rt esy o f m i n g l es ; c o u rt esy o f M o s u ; c o u rt esy o f th e p e n i n s u l a

Offering free-flow champagne and on-board massages, this is our new favorite way to cruise Victoria Harbour.

Prawn and uni jang noodles at Mingles.

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DREAMERS, EXPLORERS, WANDERERS... At Four Seasons, we create beautiful resort settings that allow time for the things that really matter. We're here to help craft a captivating getaway: one smile, one connection, one moment at a time.

Hoi An, Vietnam

r e a s o n s t o t r av e l n o w

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Join the jet set on this new luxury sky tour across the Indian Ocean. Get a taste of A-list life with Anantara’s new private jet experience—the celeb-style trip goes from big-city Bangkok to atoll-hopping across the Maldives and winds up at a coastal retreat in Sri Lanka. The trip can be tailored to your group: couples and families will fly aboard the speedy Citation X, while larger parties can take over the Gulfstream V, with a three-zone cabin, shower facilities and fully reclining beds. On ground, Anantara Kihavah Maldives and Anantara Peace Haven Tangalle Resort provide luxury stays. The Citation X has more trips scheduled, with a journey from Bangkok toAnantara’s new beachfront villas in Vietnam’s Quy Nonh the latest holiday high. anantara.com; contact Rose Ongvisit at 66-81/170-5463 or e-mail charters@mjets.com for prices.

Singapore Art Week will host some of Southeast Asia’s best galleries in a former military precinct.

An installation by Miguel Aquilizan and Jessica Dorizac at The Drawing Room.

december 2018 / tr av el andleisure asia .com

In a collaboration between Gillman Barracks and STPI Creative Workshop, next month’s Singapore Art Week will host some of the region’s top galleries at a pop-up space in the city-state’s former British Army base. Bangkok’s Gallery Ver, Manila-based The Drawing Room, and Lawangwangi Art Gallery from Bandung will be among the 25 galleries represented at the festival, which will also offer more public art programming that shows Southeast Asia’s got talent. artweek.sg; January 19–27; S.E.A Focus exhibits January 23–27.

f r o m to p : c o u rt esy o f a n a n ta r a ; c o u rt esy o f th e d r aw i n g r o o m

no.

Now flying

Nonstop

London

A new day starts at the stroke of midnight. Please be aware that airport check-in will begin one day prior to the departure date for flights departing after midnight.

WWW.FLYROYALBRUNEI.COM

Art

State of the Art The Thai capital has transformed into a citywide gallery, with the inaugural Bangkok Art Biennale (BAB) setting world-class artworks in the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s temples, malls, museums and heritage buildings. We sent Bangkok-based photographer Leigh Griffiths to capture some of the striking installations, from pieces that take on taboo topics of religion, sex and death to playful sculptures inspired by cultural traditions.

28â&#x20AC;&#x201E;

december 2018 / tr av el andleisure asia .com

1. In his series National Road No. 5 at the Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre (BACC), Cambodian photographer Lim Sokchanlina documents the transitioning architectural landscape of the main road connecting Phnom Penh to the Thai border as it expands into a busy trade route. 2. A painting by British artist Andrew Stahl hangs in the riverside East Asiatic Company Building, the century-old structure that was reopened especially for the BAB. In the foreground, mechanical angels, made by Indonesian artist Heri Dono, dangle from the ceiling. 3. Perfectly framing The Peninsula Hotel on the other side of the Chao Phraya River, Zero by Elmgreen & Dragset was created specifically for this site outside the East Asiatic Company Building. The eight-meter-high sculpture depicts the Berlin-based duo’s favored swimming pool motif. 4. Another robotic set from Yogyakarta-based Heri Dono, Genetic Manipulation gathers a pack of half-human, halfdragon machines at the BACC. Viewers can push a button to start the fans on the robots' undersides, an engaging act that intends to playfully comment on global censorship and regimented policies. 5. South Korean artist Choi Jeong Hwa’s Basket Tower descends across five levels in the BACC atrium. Inspired by everyday objects, Hwa selected an array of colorful plastic baskets from the city’s Chinatown market. He aims to generate happiness with his kaleidoscopic tower, fitting the BAB’s theme, Beyond Bliss. 6. The iconic work of Japanese sculptor Yayoi Kusama continues to draw crowds for selfies with her famous pumpkins. This threedimensional, glittering tiled piece, I Carry On Living with the Pumpkins (Silver), is in Paragon shopping mall.

tr av el andleisure asia .com / december 2018

Art

7. Across the river in Wat Prayoon, Thai artist Nino Sarabutra has tiled the temple’s floor with 125,000 tiny porcelain skulls. What Will You Leave Behind? invites vistors to walk barefoot along the deathly path, encouraging us to contemplate life and human existence. 8. The East Asiatic Company Building’s artworks are prime subjects for photographers, including silver room Diluvium by Korean artist Lee Bul, the taxidermic river animals in 2562++ by Patipat Chaiwitesh, and this mini metropolis, City Flow, by Andrew Stahl. 9. Peeking out from the BACC frontage is an enigmatic portrait from German photographer Ralf Tooten’s Asian Workers Covered series. Tooten shot laborers across Southeast Asia, who cover up from the sun as they work. bkkartbiennale.com; until February 3; free entry.

– eloise basuki 7

december 2018 / tr av el andleisure asia .com

Top 10 Islands Overall In our 2018 World’s Best Awards, Asia makes a strong showing when it comes to your favorite islands from around the globe.

Mount Bromo in Java, Indonesia, which topped the world’s best Awards in rankings notable for the dominance of Asia’s Islands.

december 2018 / tr av el andleisure asia .com

A n d i a / C o n t r i b u t o r / g e tt y i m a g e s

1 Java, Indonesia 2 Bali, Indonesia 3 Lombok, Indonesia 4 Maldives 5 Waiheke Island, New Zealand 6 Palawan, Philippines 7 Mauritius 8 Cebu, Philippines 9 Paros, Greece 10 Tasmania, Australia

debut

Park views from United Places’ Garden suite.

A Home Among the Gum Trees

courtesy of united pl aces

Melbourne’s newest boutique hotel is tucked away on the leafy streets of South Yarra, and with just 12 thoughtfully designed suites, it’s a cozy place to call your own. Lindy Alexander settles in for the night.

tr av el andleisure asia .com / december 2018

from top:

United Places and floor-level Matilda; Carr architect Chris McCue, hotel owner Darren Rubenstein and Matilda chef Scott Pickett; an Urban suite.

press the green button to open the door of one of Melbourne’s smallest hotels, it swings open. “I saw you coming,” says owner Darren Rubenstein with a broad smile, ushering me inside. With its bluestone floor and textured cement walls, the entrance hall of United Places feels like walking into one of the laneways the city is renowned for. Although this one comes flickering with candles, carrying the scent of orange blossom down the hall. Opened in June, United Places is the passion project of Rubenstein, a 38-year-old property developer who wanted to create a high-end homehotel, celebrating his love of luxury, architecture, design, collaboration and food. Despite its striking concrete and bronze façade created by Carr Design Group, the hotel is softened by its inner-city location opposite the Royal Botanic Gardens, the expansive parklands forming an ideal front yard. There are nine one-bedroom and three two-bedroom suites of 66 to 86 square-meters, spread across three floors. As Rubenstein takes me to my room (the absence of a check-in desk adds to the homey welcome) we pass underneath an asymmetrical conical space designed by local kinetic sculptor

Just as I’m about to

december 2018 / tr av el andleisure asia .com

Laura Woodward. Glass globes filled with water are used to catch the light and reflect Melbourne’s ever-changing weather patterns on the floor. “I wanted the space to be playful, beautiful and textured,” Rubenstein says. Settling into my suite is an undeniably tactile experience. It’s impossible not to reach out and run my fingers along the hand-troweled walls and opulent velvet drapes that cocoon the bedroom. I try to peer into the bathroom—a large, reflective charcoal cube dividing the room (you can see out but not in)—before following the continuous hardwood floor to slide back the floor-to-ceiling glass door of the deep-set balcony. Outside I can hear rustling leaves and the ding-ding of passing trams. My garden suite was conceptualized as an impactful and vibrant “extrovert” personality, pulling inward the green tones reflective of the garden vistas and public-facing botanic setting. The urban suites (“introverts”) are more private and secluded, with the coral-pink tones of the drapes imitating the hues exposed in the redbrick walls of the neighborhood’s historic buildings. “The introvert and extrovert concept came about during the building process when we realized the rooms were taking on their own personalities,” Rubenstein says. From sourcing exclusive singlemalt whisky from Tasmanian distillery Sullivans Cove to a fouryear search to find the right craftsman to design and create the delicate brass bedside lamps, nothing has escaped Rubenstein’s expert curatorial eye. “I’m a bit neurotic but I wanted the details to be right,” he says. “I want people to have an immediate sense of place and feel part of the fabric of the neighborhood.” It doesn’t get much more Melbourne than a day that has turned from brilliant sunshine to drizzle, and as the sky darkens, >>

courtesy of united pl aces (3)

debut

from top: The

Royal Botanic Gardens is opposite the hotel; spanner crab at Matilda; brass accents.

the blue-green quilted velvet sofa by Spanish designer Patricia Urquiola proves irresistible. The sumptuous curves make it the ideal spot to curl up with a cup of tea. Local artist Shari Lowndes created the hotel’s ceramics collection using locally sourced clays, and the coarse-grained, hand-thrown earthenware pieces elevate my simple cup of tea. I can even see tiny black flecks in the material—fragments of timber ash that Lowndes gathered from her family’s property. I make dining reservations at Matilda (matilda159.com; mains from A$33), the ground floor restaurant of United Places that recently scored two hats in the 2019 Good Food Awards. Though the oncall butler can set up a private, insuite dinner—and in the morning, a specially curated Matlida breakfast hamper of pastries, pressed juices, house-cured salmon and more will also be delivered— it’s worth heading to the restaurant to watch the fire works. Eschewing electricity and gas, head chef Scott

Pickett has created a menu that instead relies on wood fire and hot coals to imbue smokiness and depth to the dishes. The flavors are Australian, but not in a way that may be familiar, as Pickett favors the piquant tastes of native ingredients like Geraldton Wax leaves, finger lime and wattle seed. It’s somewhat temping to go out and explore the bustling neighborhood before dinner, but right now as the rain continues to fall and with a cup of tea in my hand, there’s no place like home. unitedplaces.com.au; doubles from A$650 including breakfast hampers by Scott Pickett.

december 2018 / tr av el andleisure asia .com

United Places sits on lively Domain Road in Melbourne’s South Yarra, a compact, charming and upscale suburb that hugs part of the Yarra River. There are a number of great restaurants, including Entrecôte (entrecote.com.au; mains from A$24), a Parisian-style bistro with red-and-white striped awnings, vintage light fittings and cascading greenery, and Gilson (gilsonrestaurant.com. au; mains from A$24), a contemporary spot serving Mediterraneaninfluenced dishes. Locals pick up fresh, crusty sourdough loaves, custard-filled bombolini and raspberry tarts from Baker D. Chirico (bakerdchirico.com.au; pastries from A$4). And those who like their yoga with a view head to Fauna Yoga (faunayoga.com.au; casual classes A$25) to salute the sun during the rooftop class.

f r o m t o p : c o u r t e s y o f u n i t e d p l a c e s ; G a r e th S o b e y; c o u r t e s y o f u n i t e d p l a c e s

Welcome to the neighborhood

striking

modern, unique and now open.

Startin

g from

Valid 13

RM388

/7/18 to

per nig

20/9/18

We are now open and ready to welcome you. Choose from 6 different room categories, 5 food and beverage outlets and plan amazing weddings, events, conferences and exhibitions in over 5,000 square meters of dedicated space. Reflective pools, spa pods and host of other facilities lift this amazing property that is unmatched in the Cyberjaya / Putrajaya area, come experience it for yourself. Reservations Call +603 8661 8661 or email hotel.klia.reservations@movenpick.com. Valid until 31 January, 2019.

movenpick.com/klia

LAKE TOBA AWAITS

COMBINING AN ADVENTUROUS BREAK WITH A GOOD DOSE OF FASCINATING CULTURE IS NOT ALWAYS EASY, ESPECIALLY OFF-THEBEATEN PATH. BUT, WITH NEW FLIGHTS FROM KUALA LUMPUR, A VISIT TO LAKE TOBA IN NORTHERN SUMATRA DOES JUST THAT.

A traditional Batak village at Lake Toba.

Sharp red rooftops pierce into a deepblue sky, with the vast Lake Toba lapping against sheer green cliffs that go on for as far as the eye can see. All is calm in this Batak village on the shores of this great lake. It wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t always this way. Lake Toba is the result of a supervolcanic eruption some 70 millennia ago that had a lasting effect on the global population and on the climate. These days, the 100- by 30-kilometer lake offers a more soothing ambiance as a perfect getaway for adventurers and culture vultures in northern Sumatra. Both Air Asia and Malindo Air now offer non-stop flights from Kuala Lumpur to Silangit, which makes the trip easier thean ever before. For international travelers, the flight from Jakarta to Medan is two hours and 15 minutes long, with the connection by land to Toba between four and six hours. There is no shortage of homestays available around scenic Lake Toba. Among the many options is the Bagus Bay Homestay, where lake gazing from the large green lawn or from the restaurant is a favorite pastime. At Liberta Homestay, a

traditional home with a superb vista awaits. The atmosphere in the garden is of a cool, tranquil getaway, an old Batak house serves as accommodation at Zoes Homestay, noted for its waterfront location. On Samosir Island, Hotel Carolina and Ambaroba Resort Hotel are also highly rated options. Lake Toba is the perfect setting to experience the five wonders of Indonesia: its natural scenery; the arts and culture; its culinary flair; diverse recreational options; and adventurous diversions. Of course, the main attraction here is the enormous crater lake, one of the natural wonders of the world. Lake Toba is the largest lake in Southeast Asia and, at 450 meters, one of the deepest in the world. At its center, Samosir Island alone is almost the size of Singapore. Exploring all of this natural beauty is best done on foot or on the lake itself. Near the shores of Lake Toba is the Batak Museum, a complex dedicated to the preservation of the cultural values of the indigenous ethnic population of North Sumatra, the Bataks. Highlighted with a composite aluminum exterior, the

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futuristic museum focuses on the Batak. This is a fascinating ethnic group who possess their own distinct writing and spoken language, their own traditional democratic principles of Dalihan Natolu, and the use of passed down clan or family names. Dotted with traditional stone sculptures, the museum also offers sweeping views of the lake itself. Among the extensive exhibits are ulos, or traditional Batak woven cloths, the oldest ulos here believed to date back 500 years. Experiencing modern daily life, through the sights, taste and smells, is also a must. The traditional village of Tomok today acts as a gateway—as well as a photogenic day out—offering a variety of fresh tropical fruits, vegetables, flowers, dried fish, meat and spices. Yet, no visit to a market is complete without eating. Try mie gomak, literally noodles prepared by hand, either in a broth or fried. Toppings include kerisik (grated dry-fried coconut) and sambal andaliman (a chili sauce made from a local Batak pepper) or a boiled egg. As far as recreation goes, why not search out the local way of life? While you’ve seen ulos in a museum setting, the traditional woven fabric is also a great souvenir. Not merely a form of clothing, ulos symbolizes the bond of affection between parents and children. It also has symbolic functions thorughout Batak life: different colors and motifs have significance at births, marriages and deaths. So, the cotton cloth is a key to Batak culture. Traditionally, weaving was a task performed by women, who imbued their work with symbolic values: caring for children, the family and the community. Tor Tor is a traditional Batak dance, its name echoing the sound of pounding of feet made in this dance. Accompanied by ceremonial music using instruments such as the gondang, the festive rhythm of music is upbeat and cheerful. For the more adventurous, why not experience the beauty of the Samosir countryside on a bicycle? In particular, the path between the villages of Ambarita and Tomok being a favorite route. Here, with views of rice fields and the lake, is where this region of Sumatra—volcanic, laden with fascinating ethnic traditions and savory local dishes—will take your breath away. For more information, please visit www.indonesia.travel

The vast and spectacular Lake Toba.

Famous Batak cotton weaving known as ulos. A traditional Batak house at Lake Toba.

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Another Side of Croatia

For years, Joshua Levine had been traveling from his home in Paris to his adopted home on the island of Hvar without experiencing the other coastal attractions nearby—until a cruise awakened him to the varied wonders of the Adriatic. Famous for its Renaissance architecture, the small Croatian town of Šibenik also serves as the gateway to the waterfalls in Krka National Park.

Vis is said to be one of the prettiest of the 1,244 islands along Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast. I can see it in the distance from the island of Hvar, where some 15 years ago I bought an old stone house that I spend time in whenever I can. But I had never been to Vis, even though it’s only 30 minutes away by boat. Jadrolinija, the extensive Croatian ferry network that is the lifeline for the islands, doesn’t go there directly from Hvar. By the time you take the ferry two hours to the city of Split and then another two hours out to Vis, you’ve killed the whole day. I understood the logic of this system from one of my neighbors, a Hvar native who hadn’t been to Vis either. “Why would I want to go there?” she asked me in surprise. The ferry system is designed for natives like her who use it to work and shop on the mainland—not for island sightseeing. All of which is to say that the best way— indeed, the only way—to revel in the full

december 2018 / tr av el andleisure asia .com

glory of the Dalmatian Coast, from the lush peninsula of Istria at the top to the medieval walled city of Dubrovnik at the bottom and Vis right smack in the middle, is to find a cruise ship that will hop from port to port in a way that few of Jadrolinija’s ferries seem to want to do. Now, I am not ordinarily a big fan of cruise ships: I prefer my buildings vertical and stable, not horizontal and bobbing. But the Crystal Esprit, which does regular weeklong sailings in the Adriatic from May through September, is different. Sleekly retrofitted by Crystal Yacht Expedition Cruises in 2015, it carries only 62 passengers. The cabins are roomy and plush, and the inside and outside bars, lounges and restaurants all have a clubby atmosphere. So I did not hesitate to embark in Venice for a seven-day cruise along the coast, making port at some places that I already knew well and others that I’d been meaning to see for years but suspected I would never get to. The fishing port of Rovinj, our first stop, sits about midway down the western coast of Istria, the arrowhead-shaped hump that juts into the Adriatic just south of Trieste, Italy. Road signs are in Croatian and Italian, >>

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and Italy’s happy influence has given Istria a reputation for some of Croatia’s best eating and drinking. With that in mind, I set out with a small group of passengers to the medieval town of Motovun, about a 45-minute bus ride inland. The Venetians built this remote hilltop stronghold to control access to the forests of Mediterranean oak below, which they used to construct their naval galleys. But it turns out that truffles love to nestle in the roots of these oaks, and so we gorged on a ridiculously rich polenta with black truffles at Mondo restaurant, a ramshackle collection of rooms perched by the steep cobblestoned path to the hilltop. We bought local truffle cheese and jars of black truffles to take home. And we listened to the tale of Giancarlo Zigante, who in 1999 found what was then the largest white truffle in history—it weighed 1.3 kilograms— according to the Guinness Book of World Records. He dubbed it the Millennium Truffle, and, after spurning extravagant offers from around the world, shared it with his friends. Good for you, Giancarlo!

On board the Crystal Esprit, we formed little cliques and gossiped cattily about the other cliques. A posh English foursome who played bridge every night took a lot of heat, but I don’t recall why. I fell in with a group of couples that included a former FBI counterterrorism agent, an accountant from New Jersey and an English travel agent. The travel agent’s wife brought along a canister of anti-seasickness pills, but she hardly took any. The Crystal Esprit is a smooth-sailing ship, and the Dalmatian waters are exceptionally boat-friendly: the sea stays >>

In the port of Šibenik, Crystal Esprit passengers can dine at Michelin-starred Pelegrini, which serves dishes like sea snail and veal tartare.

In Šibenik, the Krka River tumbles over its travertine bed in a series of seven dazzling waterfalls that bring in tourists from all over

trending

Going Small in the Med Sailing on an intimate ship has many benefits, from being able to reach harderto-access ports to smoother disembarkation. The destinations here are ideal for this style of cruising.

december 2018 / tr av el andleisure asia .com

Tuscan Islands

Brooklyn-based Sailing Collective, a charter company that also specializes in cruises of eight to 10 passengers, travels to this part of Italy, calling at pineforested Isola del Giglio, home to three small villages, and volcanic Capraia, part of the 700-square-kilometer Arcipelago Toscano national park. sailingcollective.com; seven-night sailings from US$3,200 for a single cabin, all-inclusive.

Spain

SeaDream Yacht Club, which operates two 112-passenger vessels (left), now runs Wine Voyages, a showcase for the Med’s top producers. The seven-night Barcelona-toMálaga itinerary, includes a sherry-pairing dinner in Puerto Banús with Bodegas Rey Fernando de Castilla and an excursion to Anima Negra, a top Mallorcan winery. seadream.com; from US$4,726 per person, all-inclusive. — Jacqueline Gifford

from top: courtesy of pelegrini; courtesy of se adre am

Corsica

The 64-passenger Le Ponant, the original ship of French cruise operator Ponant, regularly visits this French, Italian and North African–influenced island. On the southeastern coast, you’ll see the limestone cliffs of the Gulf of Santa Manza before sailing north to Cargèse, famous for its historic churches. ponant.com; seven-night sailings from US$4,970 per person, all-inclusive.

The medieval town of Motovun, located in central Istria, was fortified by the Venetians in the 13th century.

deep almost to the shoreline—and there’s virtually no commercial traffic to avoid. After Rovinj, we put in at Šibenik, where the Krka River meets the sea. A short drive inland, the Krka tumbles over its travertine bed in a series of seven dazzling waterfalls that bring in tourists from all over—another not-too-distant but oddly inaccessible landmark crossed off my bucket list. Back in Šibenik, the FBI couple and I sampled ingeniously reimagined, traditional Dalmatian dishes at Pelegrini, one of only three Michelin-starred restaurants in the entire country (the cubes of beef tongue breaded with sage and mushroom duxelles were a standout). After that, it was on to Vis, and, I have to say, it is exquisite. Like so many of these islands, it has a craggy spine of limestone, but its landscape is particularly savage and wild. Marshal Tito holed up in the caves at the center of the island toward the end of World War II. It was here that he negotiated the future of Yugoslavia. Back in the day, people stayed put; our guide said his great-greatgrandmother lived inland and never once saw the sea, only a few meters away. Charming fishing villages are in ample supply in Croatia, but Komiža on Vis has got to be among the top three. Set at the foot of

december 2018 / tr av el andleisure asia .com

Hum mountain, the town boasts a handsome fortress overlooking the harbor and was built as a defense against pirates and paid for by a fish tax—the record catch here is 3 million sardines in a single day. (The fortress is now a museum that proudly claims the world’s largest collection of knots. Just saying.) Every year on December 6, the people of Komiža set a fishing boat aflame as an offering to Saint Nicholas, then bless new boats with the ashes from their handiwork. On Hvar, I bypassed group activities and went straight to my house, where workmen were building low stone enclosures called jerulas around the two olive trees in my garden. I am honor bound to report, however, that some of my newfound friends got extra merry on an excursion to the Tomić winery in the town of Jelsa. Who can blame them? Croatian wine has been making a name for itself in the past 10 or so years, and vintner Andro Tomić, who runs the winery and produces a potent Plavac Mali, is among the reasons why. Next up was Korčula, where legend has it that Marco Polo was born. We were faced with a dilemma: take a dreamy sailboat cruise around the majestic walled harbor, or hang back and watch the broadcast of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle’s wedding shipboard. In the end, we managed both. Anne, our group’s English rose, collaborated with the Crystal Esprit’s heroically flexible chef, and we returned from the cruise to a proper buffet of fresh-baked scones, with cream and strawberry jam, and finger sandwiches of smoked salmon and cucumber (“With the crusts cut off!” Anne announced triumphantly.) This kind of bend-overbackward helpfulness characterized the ship’s whole crew. We disembarked the following morning in Dubrovnik, the jewel of the Adriatic that is now crawling with Game of Thrones groupies (part of the series was filmed there). I didn’t feel like hanging around. Dubrovnik is one of those remarkable places, like Venice, whose popularity may be its undoing. But this cruise had opened up a new vista for exploring fantasy destinations in a region I have come to love dearly. Among them are Lastovo, Rab and the Kornati archipelago. I can’t tell you when I will get to see those places, but at least now I can tell you how. crystalcruises.com; seven-night sailings from US$6,980 per person, all-inclusive.

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TOP OF THE WOR LD Kuala Lumpur is on the rise, with ever-new exciting dining and drinking experiences joining the already world-class retail and cultural attractions. We know the perfect sanctuary from which to explore them all...

170, Jalan Bintang, 55100 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Tel: +603 2117 2888 Fax: +603 2117 2999 Email: pavilionhotel-kualalumpur@banyantree.com

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A new star in kuala lumpur Pavilion Hotel Kuala Lumpur brings contemporary elegance and signature Banyan Tree service to the heart of the Malaysian capital. Be one of the first to feel the luxe. “This effervescent and cosmopolitan city is filled with vibrant beauty and diversity,” says Anders Dimblad, General Manager of Banyan Tree Kuala Lumpur and the new Pavilion Hotel Kuala Lumpur, which has just made its stunning debut in the heart of the Malaysian capital he praises so eloquently. Above award-winning shopping centre Pavilion Kuala Lumpur, this shimmering hotel oasis lets the city’s energy and beauty in, while wrapping you in a plush cocoon of contemporary calm. Impeccable service and unrivalled experiences round out the Banyan Tree imprimatur. The hotel is poised to become Kuala Lumpur’s next it drinking and dining destination with Ebisu, a restaurant and bar space featuring an array of Japanese cuisine with a twist, and Whisky Cove, the place to unwind with a wide selection

of whiskies and blends from around the world. The all-day-dining restaurant The Courtyard shows off the skills of the F&B team via its mouth-watering smorgasbord of Southeast Asian-inspired cuisine. You’ll be all powered up for a full day of visiting the easily accessed popular shopping spots and attractions—from street markets such as Bukit Bintang to world-renowned landmarks such as Kuala Lumpur Tower, Petronas Twin Towers and Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre. All these plus a host of fantastic restaurants and exciting nightlife experiences are within walking distance. By now, you’ve more than earned some pampering. The urban escapade is not complete without a rejuvenating experience at the award-winning Banyan Tree Spa. It’ll be difficult to choose among the Asian-inspired treatments. But you can’t make a wrong choice knowing you’re on the table of a highly skilled therapist who has undergone a minimum of 350 hours of training by a qualified trainer from Banyan Tree Spa Academy.

The meetings and events offerings will wow your guests. The total event space measures 1,298 sqm, with a ballroom that can entertain up to 500 people, a crescent-shaped banquet venue that sits 120, and five fully-equipped meeting rooms that hold 50 each. “With the flourishing business landscape that Kuala Lumpur possesses, this charming city has become a mecca of sorts for both tourists and business travellers around the world. In addition, some of the best shopping malls in the world, as well as modern and historical landmarks are within a stone’s throw away,” General Manager Dimblad says. “Pavilion Hotel Kuala Lumpur is in an ideal hotel destination for both business travellers and holidaymakers—or even locals looking for a pampering staycation.” We can’t wait to check in.

As much as you’ll enjoy relaxing in the spa’s embrace, or, from the Rooftop Infinity Pool next to the Sky Gym, taking in the sweeping views of your new kingdom, the choicest retreat here will surely be your own pad. The hotel features 325 rooms and suites decked out in contemporary décor for the discerning traveller in need of an urban getaway. Rooms start at a generous 32 sqm and head up to 60 sqm—and if you book one on a dedicated club floor, you’ll have exclusive access to the bright and airy Club Lounge on Level 14. Here, indulge in the delectable breakfast spread, some light bites or a cocktail or two while taking in the magnificent cityscape. Need to spread your wings? There are also 26 contemporary suites available for an extra touch of luxe and space. From the Urban Studio Suites, which begin at 64 sqm, to the showstopper Presidential Suite, clocking in at a whopping 319 sqm, Pavilion Hotel Kuala Lumpur impresses us with its stylish take on prestige accommodations.

To join in the celebration of Pavilion Hotel Kuala Lumpur’s launch, book the Opening Celebration package. Rooms start at MYR498++ per night and come with daily buffet breakfast for two and 15% savings on dinner at The Courtyard. In addition, guests will enjoy 30% off full body massages at Banyan Tree Spa and 15% off Banyan Tree Essentials products. This package is valid til June 30, 2019—for stays from December 1, 2018, til June 30, 2019. Call +603 2117 2800 or email reservationspavilionhotelkl@banyantree.com.

170, Jalan Bintang, 55100 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Tel: +603 2117 2888 Fax: +603 2117 2999 Email: pavilionhotel-kualalumpur@banyantree.com banyantree.com

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c lo c k w i s e f r o m to p l e f t : l e i g h g r i f f i ths ; c o u rt esy o f sto l e n ; c o u rt esy o f th e bac k r o o m ; s e a n F e n n essy ; c o u rt esy o f t r o p i c o l a ; to m r o ss ; c o u rt esy o f i c h u ; c o u rt esy o f s u ga r sa n d

2018 clockwise from top left: All skyline, all the time at Banyan Tree Kuala Lumpur; a new home for Singapore’s Stolen boutique; the fig and walnut Machine Gun Jack from Manila bar The Back Room; Brisbane’s new urban resort, The Calile; a splash of color in Bali with beach club Tropicola; boutique Paramount House Hotel in Sydney; Wagyu, Peruvian-style at Ichu, Hong Kong; pro cocktails at the new SugarSand beach bar at Hotel Indigo Bali.

This year, our cities shot up with a legion of luxe hotels, while F+B spots gave us fresh takes on traditional cuisines, sustainable menus and craft drinks. Here are some of our favorite newcomers.

tr av el andleisure asia .com / december 2018

CITY SLEEPERS

High-end hotels bloomed in big cities this year, offering a variety of luxe options you’ll want to book for more than one night.

from left: Contemporary furnishings deck the Sukhothai Shanghai;

Shanghai

Luxurious nods to the city’s history and traditions were the running theme in this year’s high-end hotel bloom in the pearl of the Orient. + Opened in September, the latest project by American visionary and pioneer of boutique hotels Ian Schrager artfully fuses old-world grandeur with luxurious modernity at Edition Shanghai (editionhotels.com; doubles from RMB2,018). The Art Deco building is home to 145 guest rooms, each fitted with custom designed furniture, Anichini bed linens and thoughtfully curated

textiles. The hotel boasts nine dining outlets and lounge bars, including two on the rooftop, offering some of the best panoramic views of Pudong’s futuristic skyline. + Located in the heart of busy Nanjing Road, the Sukhothai Shanghai (sukhothai.com; doubles from RMB2,080) is an urban oasis. The rooms are cozy and contemporary with custom furnishings and textured green clay walls— we were told the minerals help with air purification. Don’t miss the mesmerizing digital feature art piece in the lobby by Japanese studio teamLab—an illustrated village and rice field is broadcast in real time.

+ The Middle House (themiddlehousehotel.com; doubles from RMB3,500) is Swire Hotels’ latest addition in Shanghai, featuring 111 rooms as well as 102 residences designed by Italian architect Piero Lissoni. From sexy Italian contemporary furniture and black-and-white styling to the fine details in lattice woodwork of traditional Chinese motifs, the hotel celebrates the best of old and new Shanghai. Guest rooms and the spacious residences are decorated with cheeky postmodern art works by William Furniss where objects sit by the stilllife photography of usually a bird cage or vase—it’s all in the little details here.

+ Part of the Suhe Creek waterfront project, the Bvlgari Hotel Shanghai (bulgarihotels.com; doubles from RMB3,800) opened in June, housed in the restored 1916 Chamber of Commerce building and connected to a modern sky tower. Surrounded by lush private gardens, with a rooftop for 180-degree views of The Bund and Pudong’s staggering cityscape, the Bvlgari Hotel Shanghai is a masterful blend of the brand’s Italian elegance blended with layers of rich Shanghai history. The sixth in the group’s collection, the hotel is also home to China’s first Bvlgari chocolate boutique. – Juliana Loh

F r o m L e f t : dav e tac o n ; c o u rt esy o f T h e M i d d l e H o u s e

monochrome style in The Middle House’s one-bedroom residence.

/ the best of 2018 /

f r o m to p : LEIG H GRIFFI T H S ; T e r e n c e Ch i n / ©th e c o l l ect i o n i st ; c o u rt esy o f w est h ot e l

Kuala Lumpur

Adding extra height to its sweeping skyline, new fivestar retreats have made this more than just a stopover city. + Opened in June, the first Malaysian property from Banyan Tree (banyantree. com; doubles from RM910) is a resort haven in the CBD. Occupying the top seven floors of the Banyan Tree Signatures Pavilion building, the skyline views here are enviable. Floorto-ceiling windows light every room and even the signature spa, and Vertigo Bar on the 59th floor is where you should park yourself at sunset. + Across the road and managed by Banyan Tree, Pavilion Hotel (banyan tree.com; doubles from RM498) opened this month

atop the same-name mall. The 325-room hotel also has a rooftop infinity pool, contemporary Japanese restaurant Ebisu and intimate bar Whisky Cove. + Four Seasons Kuala Lumpur (fourseasons. com; doubles from RM893) opened in July, adding serious luxury to the KLCC. The opulent rooms come with full marble bathrooms, 180-degree views and plush king beds; dining options also spoil, with global buffet Curate, fine-dining dim sum at Yun House and creative craft cocktails at Bar Trigona. + South of the CBD, Alila Bangsar (alilahotels.com; doubles from RM391) is set within the cultural center of Little India. Eco-focused rooms make use of timber and natural stone, while a three-level atrium at the lobby takes guests to a

plant-lined pool, French restaurant Entier, and Pacific Standard bar. + The quirky design of W Kuala Lumpur (marriott. com; doubles from RM829) takes inspiration from the city: a topographic view of KL covers the lobby floor; batik designs pattern feature walls; and jungle elements are symbolized in cushions. The Wet Deck pool bar provides the party, while the Away Spa offers a celeb-style detox. + The RuMa (theruma. com; doubles from RM848) opened last month, and its design honors Malaysian artisans with woven furnishings, copper ceilings and handcrafted bronze accents. Their “hostmanship” service means 24-hour check-in and checkout, all-day butler service and a free mini bar. – Eloise Basuki

Sydney

The harbor city continues to grow with new boutique rooms and seaside sanctuaries.

from top: The Collectionist’s Pepo Melone

room; West Hotel’s gleaming exterior.

+ The opening of Paramount House Hotel (paramount househotel.com; doubles from A$240) in ever-hip Surry Hills was the last notch in the cultural rebirth of the 1940s Paramount building, which also houses Golden Age Cinema, Paramount Coffee Project and new arrival Poly restaurant. The 29-room boutique hotel offers a variety of layouts featuring big windows, terrazzo-tiled bathrooms and Japanese-style wooden

Four Seasons’ cocktail den, Bar Trigona.

tubs. Australian-sourced amenities celebrate local faves, with Aesop toiletries; mini-bar snacks by nearby barbecue joint LP’s Quality Meats; natural wines by Tom Shobbrook from the Barossa; and linens by Melbournebased Cultiver. + Over in Sydney’s more bohemian Inner West, The Collectionist Hotel (collectionisthotel. com.au; doubles from A$153) fits in with its individualist neighbors, calling itself: “no normal hotel.” Guests can choose-their-ownadventure at check-in, picking their favorite room from four types and 39 unique interiors: “Artisan” rooms flaunt

handmade art pieces like colorful ceramics on forest-green walls; “Moonshine” rooms have painted murals (choose from rolling clouds or graffiti-style imagery) and full kitchens. + Sitting pretty between Darling Harbour and growing urban development project Barangaroo, West Hotel (westhotel.com.au; doubles from A$238) opened in January to add a dose of designer sophistication. The 182 premium rooms are complemented by Solander Dining and Bar’s modern Australian fare and botanicalinspired cocktails, best sipped in the festoon-lit garden atrium. – E.B.

tr av el andleisure asia .com / december 2018

Hong kong

clockwise from top left: The clear peanut butter and banana flavored

Crystal Old Fashioned from Room 309; a Grand Deluxe room at The Murray; new Chinese restaurant Old Bailey at dusk; chef Ikuya Kobayashi shows his knife skills at Sushi Saito; heritage spaces at Tai Kwun.

Eat + Drink

responsible for Quinary and Origin, is a speakeasy disguised as a hotel room. Check in at The Envoy, Lai’s other bar next door, to receive a door key to access Room 309. The Pottinger Hotel, where the bar is located, doesn’t have a guest room by that number, so in the spirit of “invisible” things, Lai offers a menu of transparent cocktails. Despite being as clear as water, the drinks are surprisingly full-bodied and indulgent, like the Crystal Old Fashioned, with flavors of peanut butter, smoked wood, and banana. room309.hk; drinks from HK$128.

Sushi Saito Tokyo’s Michelin-three-starred Sushi Saito opened its new branch outside of Japan, tucked away on the club floor of the Four Seasons Hong Kong. At the helm is Ikuya Kobayashi, who has been working with founder Takashi Saito for more than seven years. Ingredients are selected by chef Saito himself and flown in daily from Tokyo, for an experience that is as close as possible to eating in Japan. globallink.com.hk/sushisaito; set lunch HK$1,580 per person.

The Murray A night in a government office may sound like the premise of a bad horror movie, but The Murray is no ordinary office block. Designed by Ron Phillips in the 1960s, it’s one of Hong Kong’s most iconic examples of Modernist architecture, and Niccolo Hotels has transformed it into a refined 336-room pad. The original deep window recesses frame unique views across the city as well as plenty of natural sunlight. New additions like rooftop bar Popinjays and an indoor pool bring a sense of modern luxury. niccolohotels. com; doubles from HK$7,000.

Old Bailey Homegrown powerhouse JIA Group is behind new hauteChinese restaurant Old Bailey, located in the brand-new cultural hub of Tai Kwun (see below). The understated, light-filled room is inspired by a Chinese scholar’s study, while the menu takes on Jiangnan cuisine—think dishes from Suzhou, Nanjing and Shanghai, such as mala xiaolongbao (Iberico-pork soup dumplings with Sichuan pepper) and pigeon smoked with Longjing tea. Tea is by local artisanal brand Plantation. oldbailey.hk; meal for two from HK$750.

Ichu Peruvian food has risen to trendy heights in recent years, and pioneering Peruvian chef Virgilio Martinez’s first outpost in Asia is inspired by the casual cevicherias of Peru. He and head chef Sang Jeong introduce Latin American flavors through dishes such as palta quemada, with grilled avocado; and pez Amazonia, sea bass infused with charred banana leaves. These flavorful plates match perfectly with the South American–forward cocktail menu. ichu.com.hk; mains from HK$260. Room 309 The latest from Antonio Lai, Hong Kong’s prolific mixologist

december 2018 / tr av el andleisure asia .com

Stay

See

Tai Kwun With its commanding presence on Hollywood Road, Central Police Station has always been an integral part of Hong Kong. In use from the late 1800s to the early 2000s, it was once the headquarters of the Hong Kong Police and housed the Victoria Prison. Refurbished as arts and culture hub Tai Kwun, the old colloquial name for the police station, it now hosts historical exhibitions, art galleries and cultural activities, plus a slew of new restaurants and bars. taikwun.hk. – Janice Leung Hayes >>

c lo c k w i s e f r o m l e f t : c o u rt esy o f r o o m 3 0 9 ; c o u rt esy o f th e M u r r ay ; c o u rt esy o f o l d ba i l e y ; c o u rt esy o f s u sh i sa i to ; c o u rt esy o f Ta i K w u n

/ the best of 2018 /

Savage Talented young chef Josh Boutwood has a preference for grilling and roasting, and dishes here are layered with flavor: deviled eggs with smoked salt, or grilled tuna jaw with yeast and miso. The smoky depth is balanced by his penchant for pickling and zingy sauces. Set in a simple but festive space, it’s great for groups, but for a more formal experience, try his omakase-style 10-seater next door, Helm. fb.com/ savagemnl; mains from P490. Stvdio Lab Chef Chele Gonzalez is back with a distinct mission—to highlight underrated Filipino ingredients and take them to a global standard. The 12-seater space adjacent to

Manila’s F+B fever The Philippine capital is swapping global chains and casual diners for more curated places to eat and drink. This year we fell for the city’s more intimate spaces and Filipino-focused menus.

his newly re-opened Gallery by Chele, is contemporary and airy but rooted in nature with warm wood and cool stone. Meals are paired with wines picked by sommelier Pierre Addison. stvdiolab. com; mains from P2,900. Agimat Foraging Bar & Kitchen Named after the local amulet used to charm unsuspecting victims, Agimat is a place to be enchanted. Set in an old house in hip Poblacion, guests sit under a mystical balete canopy, and choose from a menu that explores Philippine provinces; the Bantangas menu features duck confit with pianggang essence, adlai cassoulet and Ilocos heirloom tomatoes.

december 2018 / tr av el andleisure asia .com

The inspired cocktail menu uses foraged ingredients. fb.com/agimatbar; mains from P750; drinks from P300. The Back Room Hidden in Shangri-La at the Fort in Bonifacio Global City, Bootleggers, Rumrunners and Babes welcome you at this Prohibition era–inspired speakeasy. Glamorous interiors with beautiful ArtDeco touches house a selection of unique cocktails using craft liquors—the bar even distills its own gin, Bee’s Knees. shangri-la.com; drinks from P750. 78-45-33 With an impressive library of vinyl, a state-of-the-art fully restored vintage sound system, luxe leather chairs

and handcrafted classic cocktails, this homey Salcedo Village jazz bar is also the spot to live out your Mad Men fantasies. fb .com/ 784533SalcedoVillage; drinks from P500. Xylo at The Palace The era of the superclub is back with a full renovation and rebranding of the legendary Valkyrie. Glitzier and edgier than its predecessor, with geometric and gold accents, plush leather booths and a massive dance floor, the Taguig nightclub is the best party zone with their stellar local and international DJ line-up. fb.com/xyloatthepalace; drinks from P500; weekend tables from P25,000 for 10 people. – Stephanie Zubiri >>

c o u rt esy o f x y lo at th e pa l ac e

Xylo at the Palace is the city’s newest place to dance in the dark.

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/ the best of 2018 /

Indonesia

EAT + DRINK

Ijen, Potato Head Bali Its zero-waste ethos is reason to come here in itself—banana leaves replace plastic, glasses are made from used beer bottles, and the kitchen cooks with wood fire—but the Indosourced, sustainable menu is the real draw, with a kitchen headed up by Nusa Penida– born chef Kresna Yasa. Try Bedugul tamarillo and smoked mackerel; wood-fired cauliflower with kluwak-nut tahini; and red dragonfruit sorbet for a refreshing dessert. The surf views from famed Potato Head beach club are a bonus. ptthead.com; mains from Rp250,000. Roosevelt, Jakarta Brought to you by De La House, the same crew behind sophisticated spaces like Leon, Twenty Fifth and Parc 19, Roosevelt is a refined steakhouse, marrying wood-

fired meats with craft cocktails atop the new eightfloor Goodrich Suites in South Jakarta. Steaks come dryaged from Australia and Japan; there’s a refreshing starter menu—“seacuterie” includes miso-cured salmon, Provençal hamachi and yuzu tuna; plus smart cocktails to boot. rooseveltjakarta.com; mains from Rp120,000.

STAY

Capella Ubud Set within a jungle-clad valley, this Bill Bensley–designed tented camp stands out from the crowd in luxury-laced Bali with its über-glam canvas “tents,” fitted with Balinese hand-carved wooden doors and private saltwater pools. The 23 sumptuous retreats are each inspired by early European settlers from the 1800s, individually styled to represent, say, a Naturalist’s or a Cartographer’s tent, or

december 2018 / tr av el andleisure asia .com

one in tune with the on-site temple. capellahotels.com; doubles from Rp11,732,000. Como Uma Canggu The opening of this supersleek resort means the black volcanic sands of southwest Bali are now home to more than mere surfer digs: the jet set have arrived. The upscalefactor is amped with the resort’s 119 stylish rooms designed by Japanese-born Koichiro Ikebuchi. Learn to surf at one of the nearby breaks, have recovery drinks at the Como Beach Club, or detoxify at the on-site Como Shambhala Spa. comohotels.com; doubles from Rp3,040,127. Six Senses Uluwatu Hugging the soaring limestone cliffs of southern Uluwatu, this new wellness-focused resort delivers on scenic drama as well as the brand’s

signature barefoot-style luxury. Home to a Six Senses Spa, as well as high-end dining options all coming with a side of Indian Ocean views, you could settle in here happily for days. sixsenses.com; doubles from Rp6,000,000. Hotel Monopoli, Jakarta This 60-room South Jakarta hotel is a refreshing dose of quirky contemporary. Set in buzzing Kemang, the feel-good boutique reimagines and updates Indonesian style for 2018; it’s less about batik and Rijsttafel, more about rattan and smoothie bowls. The 68 rooms have a funky, new-retro design—we love the palm tree–stamped bed heads. Skip Jakarta’s infamous traffic by hanging out at the rooftop pool by day, or in the basement club by night. hotelmonopolijakarta.com; doubles from Rp720,000. – Holly Mcdonald

c lo c k w i s e f r o m to p l e f t : c o u rt esy o f ca p e l l a u b u d ; c o u rt esy o f I j e n ; c o u rt esy o f C o m o Um a Ca n g g u ; c o u rt esy o f s i x s e n s es u lu wat u ; c o u rt esy o f r o o s e v e lt

clockwise from above: Checkmate on the deck of Capella Ubud’s Keliki Valley tent; spicy grilled clams at Ijen, the new restaurant at Potato Head Bali; Como Uma Canggu has its own beach club; Six Senses Uluwatu is a clifftop sanctuary; elegant interiors at Jakarta steakhouse Roosevelt.

/ the best of 2018 /

Beach Club Boom

The Ulu Cliffhouse ocean deck leads to its own lagoon.

The island paradise has long held currency as a party playground, but this year a new generation of design-led spaces stepped up the sophistication, breathing life into Bali’s beach-club scene. Combining cutting-edge fit-outs with sweeping views, world-class cuisine, cliff-dangling infinity pools and bigname DJs, these day-to-night venues are destinations in themselves. Laid-back Bukit Peninsula got a little livelier with two new clubs in Uluwatu. Ulu Cliffhouse (ulucliffhouse.com; drinks from US$8) was the first to turn up the tempo, with a luxe club reminiscent of 1960s Palm Springs. The cliffside complex includes an infinity pool, Med-inspired restaurant, music studio, art space and line-up of international DJs. Vegas export Omnia Dayclub (omnia clubs.com; drinks from US$8) shimmied into the same area next. Hovering 100 meters above the Indian Ocean, its swim-up bar and galactic-like centerpiece syncs with the sky, glowing burnt orange as the sun dips into the ocean, then midnight blue as night falls. More draws: the private VIP bungalows, and Japanese eatery Sake No Hana. Up-and-coming Canggu saw the opening of graphic, 80s-style Tropicola (tropicola. info; drinks from US$6), sister of Seminyak’s buzzy Motel Mexicola. A hotel and rooftop bar will eventually complete the concept,

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until then, kick back with jackfruit coladas and lively beats. Further up the coast in Echo Beach, Como Beach Club (comohotels.com; drinks from US$8) marries the new hotel’s minimalist aesthetic with the area’s boho surf roots. The raw-timber deck, also home to a surf school, is strung with swinging daybeds that are coveted spots come sunset. The kitchen serves a health-conscious menu that is delightfully crave-inducing. Further south, the sleek interiors at Hotel Indigo’s new shoreside SugarSand (seminyak.hotelindigo.com; drinks from US$8) on Seminyak Beach are inspired by the Indonesian jukung fishing boats and pop with bright orange and turquoise hues. There’s a rooftop bar, partially submerged daybeds, Japanese-Peruvian bites and magical mirrored sunsets reflecting from the pool. Meanwhile, the tranquil resort hub of Nusa Dua has welcomed Manarai Beach House (fb.com/manaraibeachhouse; drinks from US$9), with chef Stefan Poyet dishing up Jimbaran-style whole red snapper, Balinese jamu and alco-popsicles. Set on a white-sand beach, the venue weaves together traditional Balinese design accents of draped sarongs and artisanal tiles with daybeds, two pools and an outdoor lounge. – Jenny Hewet t >>

c o u rt esy o f U lu C l i f f h o u s e

This year saw Bali flush with places to party, and with these multitasking clubs, the Indonesian resort island has got layered leisure down to a fine art.

MARVELLOUSLY MODERN

Pullman Yangon Centrepoint

THE PULLMAN HOTELS & RESORTS EXPERIENCE IS UPSCALE, UPBEAT AND PERFECTLY IN TUNE WITH THE NEW GENERATION OF CONNECTED AND SOPHISTICATED WORLD TRAVELLERS. For these ‘global nomads’ who blur the line between office hours and leisure time, Pullman is the ideal hub. Best-in-class facilities and a stylishly cool aesthetic make it easy to conduct business, explore the locale and connect to the neighbourhood and the people around them. Amid the captivating colonial-era architecture and bustling central business district, Pullman Yangon Centrepoint is perfectly located in the heart of the city. Sule Pagoda, City Hall and Bogyoke Market are all within easy walking distance, yet the hotel itself is a destination with dining options for every occasion. E’Cucina Italian Restaurant is an authentic trattoria for casual chic gatherings, while The Merchant boasts a sublime international buffet and live cooking stations. For relaxed drinks in an informal atmosphere, Junction lobby lounge and Gustave bar are both excellent. On the wellness front, Fit Lounge features the latest equipment from Technogym and, starting in January, deeply relaxing spa treatments. A popular venue for conferences and meetings in the downtown area, the hotel’s meeting rooms and Grand Ballroom are ideal for any event. Set in a lush landscape of paddy fields, streams, infinity pools and ponds, the recently unveiled Pullman Luang Prabang is a celebration of Laotian culture. Delightfully appointed rooms and suites are modern, generously sized, and feature a large terrace for guests to unwind and connect with nature.

Where the road ends and the countryside begins, the Pullman Spa offers pampering facials and massage treatments in serene treatment chalets. A highlight for travelling families, the signature Kids’ Club has a paddling pool, waterslide, and hands-on cooking, crafts and rice cultivation classes. And for truly unique corporate meetings and special celebrations, what is now Luang Prabang’s largest conference venue boasts gorgeous natural lighting, state-ofthe-art facilities, and nearly limitless possibilities for al-fresco events.

Pullman Luang Prabang

For more information, visit pullmanhotels.com or accorhotels.com

/ the best of 2018 /

The MO Bar With the opening of the soigné MO Bar, the Mandarin Oriental has finally closed the gap in its otherwise formidable resumé. Lined with thick tapestries and tessellated metal panels inspired by Polynesian tattoos, the bar is at its best at night when the skyscrapers along Marina Bay are lit up like the Fourth of July. The top-notch drinks menu features 14 lethal mixes laced with imaginative blends like black-ink coriander soju, Indonesian pandan rum, fermented mangosteen and carbonated Scotch tea. mandarinoriental.com; drinks from S$24.

STAY

The Capitol Kempinski Hotel Three years after it was meant to open as a Patina hotel, the Kempinski now headlines the Richard Meier–designed Capitol. One of designer Jaya Ibrahim’s last projects, the 157-room hotel straddles two grand heritage piles—the Capitol, built in 1933, and Stamford House from 1903— which explains the eclectic mix of Art Deco and colonial grandeur in the public spaces. Framed by a green wall, the bijou rooftop saltwater pool is easily one of the prettiest in

town. kempinski.com; doubles from S$568. Six Senses Duxton For the debut of its first urban hotel, the Six Senses group could not have picked a more charming spot: a beautifully restored row of late 19thcentury shophouses in a leafy stretch of Chinatown. Inside the 49-room property, interior designer Anouska Hempel has indulged her penchant for dramatic stage-sets to create intimate nooks charged with imperial yellow, vibrant reds and lacquered blacks. A Traditional Chinese Medicine practitioner is also on hand to temper jet lag. sixsenses.com; doubles from S$390.

Singapore

SHOP

Stolen In 2007, Elyn Wong turned her back on a highflying career in advertising for a second wind as a fashion designer. In that short time, she has built a loyal following for her trademark backless numbers and flattering sculptural cuts. This popularity accounts for the procession of stylish mavens who stream through the lobby of Straits Clan, a members’ club in Chinatown, and up to her pop-up studio and atelier for a private consultation or a nose through her tightly edited collection. stolenstolen.com. The Moon In an age where media pundits regularly predict the demise of print, The Moon defiantly celebrates the joy of the physical book. Set in a threestory Chinatown shophouse, this hippy-chic indie bookstore features an eclectic haul of obscure but interesting titles, the curation including an admirable sweep of ethnic and women writers. A café stocked with cakes and nibbles on ground level, and a top-floor reading room strewn with lowslung sofas complete this bibliophile’s dream hangout. themoon.com.sg. – daven Wu >>

december 2018 / tr av el andleisure asia .com

clockwise from top left: Enter through the shophouse doors at Esora;

the pineapple tepache and vermouth jelly Roaring City cocktail at The MO Bar; dramatic drapery from Stolen; The Moon bookshop celebrates the printed page; the regal exterior of The Capitol Kempinski Hotel.

c lo c k w i s e f r o m to p l e f t : c o u rt esy o f es o r a ; c o u rt esy o f th e m o ba r ; c o u rt esy o f sto l e n ; c o u rt esy o f th e m o o n ; c o u rt esy o f th e ca p i to l k e m p i n sk i h ot e l s i n ga p o r e

EAT + DRINK

Esora Hidden along a row of period shophouses on Mohamed Sultan Road, Esora is a meditative culinary experience. Taking his cue from Japanese kappo cooking, head chef Shigeru Koizumi calmly channels his obsession with micro-seasonal ingredients such as white maitake mushrooms, conger eel, aged akazu vinegar and Hokkaido corn. The dishes are as beautifully austere as the interiors designed by local studio Takenouchi Webb with blonde timber, washi paper, and diffused light. restaurantesora.com; dinner menu S$188.

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/ the best of 2018 / clockwise from top left: Bao Wow’s fried chicken bao; Vietnamese

Vietnam EAT + DRINK

Bao Wow, Hanoi First piloted as a pop-up at festivals and markets around Hanoi, Bao Wow is prospering at its permanent new digs on up-and-coming Dang Thai Mai near the city’s West Lake. The venue, which is overseen by chef Phan Nhu Long and his partner and co-owner Katie Taylor, specializes in delicious Taiwanese-style baos. While inspiration comes from Taipei, the menu brings fusion concoctions, like the pulledpork bao with Asian slaw, house pickles and peanuts, and ingredients sourced from North Vietnam. fb.com/ baowowhanoi; bao from VND40,000. Union Jacks, Saigon Delivering all the hits from a typical British fish and chip shop, plus quite a bit more, their battered fish, beef and ale stew, and bangers and

mash are present and correct. They even cater to homesick Scots with a deep-fried Mars Bar. Premium ingredients are used while effort has been taken to ensure that only sustainable varieties of fish are thrown in the fryer. A great selection of local craft brews ups the ante even further. union-jacks.co; mains from VND150,000. Quince, Saigon A shortfall of Saigon’s otherwise stellar food scene has been its lack of sleek, yet casual, contemporary bistros. Stepping into the breach was Quince, the graceful sister of the acclaimed same-name eatery in Bangkok. The venue screams class and restraint in everything from the renovated space inside a colonial-era building to a concise singlepage menu showcasing seasonal plates and nibbles. fb.com/quincesaigon; mains from VND470,000.

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Rabbit Hole, Saigon While its owners have proclaimed Rabbit Hole as an avant-garde venture, their Saigon baby is less edgy than the billing might suggest. Sure, the bartenders are not averse to putting their own spin on cocktail classics—a Manhattan comes tweaked with sarsaparilla wood for extra smokiness. These questing aspects though are balanced out by a cozy Art Deco–inspired interior and a low jazz soundtrack. fb.com/ rabbitholebarhcm; drinks from VND300,000.

STAY

Legacy Yen Tu A sacred mountain is the site of designer Bill Bensley’s newest flight of fancy in Vietnam. Located about an hour north of Ha Long Bay, Yen Tu Mountain is regarded as the birthplace of Vietnamese Buddhism and remains a

popular place of pilgrimage. Unsurprisingly, this sense of spiritualism is reflected in the resort, with rooms evoking local heritage as well as the natural surroundings. sofitel. accorhotels.com; rooms from VND3,000,000. Intercontinental Phu Quoc Long Beach Resort Phu Quoc has come a long way in the last few years, with new air routes and infrastructure propelling it eons from its castaway roots. Rapid development on the island though is mitigated by the introduction of outstanding resorts such as this fresh space. With 459 keys, the grand scope of the project offers plenty of room for highlights such as wellness by Thai spa masters Harnn and Ink360—the highest sky bar on the island—to co-exist harmoniously. ihg.com; rooms from VND4,000,000. – duncan forgan

c lo c k w i s e f r o m to p l e f t : c o u rt esy o f bao wow ; c o u rt esy o f ac c o r ; c o u rt esy o f r a bb i t h o l e ; c o u rt esy o f q u i n c e ; c o u rt esy o f i n t e r c o n t i n e n ta l p h u q u o c lo n g b e ac h r es o rt

heritage is embodied in the rooms at Legacy Yen Tu; a classic negroni at Rabbit Hole, Saigon; contemporary fare at pared-back Quince Saigon; the scenic Vista Pool at Intercontinental Phu Quoc Long Beach Resort.

THE SKY ABOVE, THE CITY BELOW AND IN BETWEEN A LUXURIOUS HAVEN. Soaring above the heart of KL, the new Four Seasons Hotel effortlessly blends business and leisure. Sophisticated accommodations combine with world-class dining and legendary Four Seasons service, guarantee that the hotel is the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new nexus of success and style. Find out more at: fourseasons.com/kualalumpur

/ the best of 2018 / Quay, Sydney Heads spun this year as chef Peter Gilmore revealed the new version of his harborside fine-dining icon. Gone were the white tablecloths (gasp!), replaced with a more organic design—timber ceilings, volcanic stone details, earthy leather chairs—and Gilmore controversially retired his beloved snow egg dessert. New dishes shout out Aussie producers: South Australian razor clams, Tasmanian uni and an exclusively grown redspeckled pea are just a few. The A$4-million facelift helped Quay 2.0 scoop the country’s top 2019 food awards, including Gourmet Traveller’s Best Restaurant. quay.com.au; six-course menu A$210. Sunda, Melbourne While contemporary takes on Southeast Asian cuisine abound Down Under, this new laneway restaurant—named after the Indo-Malay archipelago—has a decidedly more creative take, with a just-

enough-Aussie twist. Signatures include their veg curry, served with roti and Vegemite; the delicately plated otak-otak, made with a coconut-curried spanner crab and served with finger lime; and larb-style cured kangaroo with nahm jim. Head chef Khanh Nguyen is an alumni of Red Lantern, Mr Wong and Noma’s Sydney pop-up. sunda. com.au; mains from A$24. Faro, Hobart MONA, Tassie’s avant-garde, cooler-than-cool modern art museum, opened their second restaurant, Faro, in the new Pharos wing. Not just an eatery, the dining space is part of the art, engaging guests in two in-house installations by light-artist James Turrell: Unseen Seen, a giant orb that projects a kaleidoscopic trip of lights to those inside; and the opposing Weight of Darkness, a pitch-black maze. The European menu dishes out plates like pan-roasted quail and char-grilled Berkshire pork. To drink, order the freaky black margarita. mona.net.au;

AUSTRALIA

clockwise from above: Sunda’s Southeast-Asian bites; white coral is Quay’s new dessert; star anise smoke finishes Malt & Juniper’s espresso martini; Faro’s artistic take on dining; a spa with a view at W Brisbane.

december 2018 / tr av el andleisure asia .com

mains from A$28; art viewings are an extra A$25, book ahead. Malt & Juniper, Adelaide A new neighbor on Adelaide’s Peel Street small-bar hub, this dim-lit, retro-fitted drinking hole focuses, as its name suggests, on all things whisky and gin. The mature design fixates on dark green, which colors the marble bar and leather booths. The back bar holds an impressive line-up of 260 bottles, while the G+T list reads like a tour of South Australia’s best gin-makers, including Kangaroo Island’s KIS gin served with orange and pepper, or Ambleside gin from Hahndorf served with basil and olives. fb.com/maltandjuniper; drinks from A$14.

STAY

The Calile Hotel, Brisbane A resort oasis in the middle of the city, this boutique beauty in trendy Fortitude Valley is just what Brisbane—and, the country—was missing. Located in the James Street Precinct, tropical vibes ring

through the chic design, with rooms featuring crafted oak furnishings, brass and marble finishes, and private terraces. Cabanas and sun-loungers hem the glimmering turquoise pool and Greek restaurant Hellenika offers alfresco dining. thecalilehotel.com; doubles from A$207. W Brisbane Adding a more spirited dose of high-end opulence to the city was the opening of the W, a 312-room hotel hyped as the first five-star accommodation to open in Brisbane in 20 years. Presenting views that stretch across the Brisbane River to Queensland Museum, GOMA and the mountains beyond, the property’s quirky design is inspired by the Australian outback and rooms take on the look of typical Queenslander homes, including a reimagined 10-gallon-drum tub for a bath. Byron restaurant Three Blue Ducks has opened inside, and an Away spa and Edwards and Co hair salon extends the indulgence. wbrisbane.com; doubles from A$350. – E.B. >>

c lo c k w i s e f r o m fa r l e f t : c o u rt esy o f s u n da ; c o u rt esy o f q uay ; c o u rt esy o f M a lt & J u n i p e r ; c o u rt esy o f fa r o ; c o u rt esy o f W B r i sba n e

EAT + DRINK

/ the best of 2018 /

Beryl waters and picturesque boardwalks edge this isolated isle.

Yes, this is Cambodia. This sparkling private-island paradise is the new home to Six Senses Krabey Island (sixsenses. com; doubles from US$715), which opened this month. Located just five kilometers off Ream National Park in southern Cambodia, the forest-immersed resort houses 40 freestanding private villas, each with their own infinity plunge pools and rain showers. Coastal boardwalks connect the villas to two produce-driven Khmer and Southeast Asian restaurants, as well as a sunset bar and an ice-cream parlor. And once you’ve tired from all the snorkeling, fishing, cooking classes, stargazing and pool-lazing you can handle, the Six Senses Spa has rejuvenation programs inspired by the sacred Khmer Kbal Spean River, and features crystal water baths and a meditation cave. Sustainability efforts ensure a minimal footprint is left on the untouched haven, with green living roofs on all villas, in-house glass water bottling, a 40,000-square-meter organic market farm, coral propagation program, and introduction of sustainable Royal Heritage Suite, Alila Fort practices within the local Khmer communities. Castaway life has never looked better. – E.B. >> Bishangarh.

december 2018 / tr av el andleisure asia .com

c o u rt esy o f s i x s e n s es

CASTAWAY CAMBODIA

/ the best of 2018 /

thailand

clockwise from top left: Thai fragrance store Karmakamet’s new

fine-dining space; the “son-in-law egg” amuse bouche at Saawaan; private-island Cape Fahn sits just off Koh Samui; admire Bangkok’s skyline from Waldorf Astoria’s pool; the lobster-claw jor-rang at Sorn.

december 2018 / tr av el andleisure asia .com

Saawaan, Bangkok Rice paddy crabs are super cute. But chef Aom Pongmorn shows no mercy. She rips them apart, renders their fat with Thai herbs, returns the mix to their shells and roasts it on the grill for a complex, creamy dip for your sticky-rice balls. Don’t look for any fluff, foam or barely there bites at Saawaan. This is substantial fare for a set 10 courses, any five of which would satisfy your hunger but why stop when grilled, tender Iberico Secreto awaits as the savory denouement? saawaan.com; tasting menu Bt1,950. Karmakamet Conveyance, Bangkok Go back in time at riverside restoration project Lhong 1919, and across Asia via this fine-dining memory tour from chef Som Theantae. Her take on Hainanese chicken rice is a salve for the soul, a rich broth that will cure any hangover— which, if you opt for the smart wine pairing, would be useful the day after. Theantae even finds tasty inspiration in some

foods she didn’t like in their original form, making for truly impressive kitchen acrobatics. karmakametconveyance.com; tasting menu Bt2,500. Funky Lam Kitchen, Bangkok Really want to fawn over fish cakes? Funky Lam’s trout with pounded prawns will dance through your dreams. You also need their clam soup with meatballs, charred tomatoes and lemongrass in your life. A highlands-food passion project from two Laotian princes, the place flirts with its motorcycle theme and playful menu: the house-made Isan sausage comes with a doll-sized minicleaver. fb.com/funkylam kitchen; mains from Bt350.

Stay

Waldorf Astoria Bangkok Towering over the bustle of the Siam shopping district and the serenity of the Royal Bangkok Sports Club, Andre Fu’s interiors are graceful and inviting. On the ground is the hotel’s gunning-for-Michelin Front Room; up top find a scrumptious steakhouse, a pure-romance champagne lounge, and lofty cocktail bar whose westward windows captivate at hot-pink sunset hour. waldorfastoria.hilton. com; doubles from Bt13,000. Cape Fahn Hotel, Koh Samui What’s better than a private island? Two private islands, obviously. Just off the north coast of Koh Samui is all-pool villa boutique Cape Fahn. It’s a 300-meter boat-ride from shore, but at low tide you can walk it, redefining the phrase barefoot luxury. Fahn Island has 21 villas, two restaurants, and the spa; for total escape book the two-bedroom pool villa on bitty Fahn Noi next door. Or charter their private yacht. capefahnhotel.com; doubles from Bt14,153. – jeninne lee-st. john

c lo c k w i s e f r o m to p l e f t : c o u rt esy o f k a r m a k a m e t ; c o u rt esy o f sa awa a n ; c o u rt esy o f ca p e fa h n h ot e l ; c o u rt esy o f Wa l d o r f ASto r i a Ba n g ko k ; J e n i n n e L e e - St. J o h n

eat

Sorn Fine Southern Cuisine, Bangkok One of the hardest tables to snag right now is Sorn, a spicy, smoky, layered trip through the Thai south. Each dish has a story, like the Kobe-soft skewers made of dry-aged beef from six-year-old cows that’s marinated in milk and grilled in a date-curry sauce. You begin with a parade of small plates, but the climax is a table full of shared dishes—curries, grilled meat, soup and seafoods— offering the double benefit of re-grounding you in Thailand and allowing your party to take a breather from the wait staff and discuss what you actually think about the meal. Then sit back and look at each other in appreciative awe. instagram. com/sornfinesouthern; tasting menu Bt2,700.

www.indonesia.travel indonesia.travel @indtravel indonesia.travel

TheThe Captivating Captivating

Belitung Belitung

Island-hopping in Belitung to see its its Island-hopping in Belitung to see iconic beaches with stout granite clusters iconic beaches with stout granite clusters and and magniﬁcent underwater view.view. magniﬁcent underwater

1. Lengkuas Island 1. Lengkuas Island

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Frolicking on theonwhite sandy sandy beach beach on which Frolicking the white on which standsstands a historic lighthouse. Lengkuas is an island a historic lighthouse. Lengkuas is an island with awith combination of nature and historical spot, spot, a combination of nature and historical the lighthouse, that you to seetothe the lighthouse, thatcan youclimb can climb see the amazing surrounding landscape. amazing surrounding landscape.

2. Tanjung Kelayang 2. Tanjung Kelayang

There There are two to thistodestination; on theon the areparts two parts this destination; west side, characteristic granitegranite west you side,can youﬁnd canthe ﬁnd the characteristic clusters, while while to thetoeast, white white clusters, the the east,beautiful the beautiful sandy sandy stretchstretch is an attractive place to relax. is an attractive place to Don't relax. Don't miss also a granite formation missthe alsoBatu the Garuda, Batu Garuda, a granite formation that resembles the mythical bird Garuda. that resembles the mythical bird Garuda.

3. Snorkeling 3. Snorkeling

Enjoy the great beautiful ﬁsh and coral Enjoy the sight greatofsight of beautiful ﬁsh andthe coral the two most spots: Kepayang Island and tworecommended most recommended spots: Kepayang Island and Batu Malang Penyu.Penyu. Here, you can snorkel aroundaround a Batu Malang Here, you can snorkel a giant granite with the company of the local marine giant granite with the company of the local marine life. If you're lucky, you even the hawksbill life. If you're lucky,can you cansee even see the hawksbill turtlesturtles swimming close to the water swimming close to the surface. water surface.

4. Tanjung Tinggi 4. Tanjung Tinggi

White White sand, sand, clear sea and the clearwater, sea water, andbeautiful the beautiful granitegranite stonesstones are discernible traits of thisof beach. are discernible traits this beach. The calm on Tanjung Tinggi Tinggi Beach Beach makesmakes it Thewaves calm waves on Tanjung it a relaxing and safe swimming. After aAfter day a day a relaxing andspot safefor spot for swimming. at theatbeach, don't don't forget forget to try to thetrylocal the beach, the food local food vendors on theon shore. vendors the shore.

5. Bukit Berahu 5. Bukit Berahu

You can combination of nature and luxury Youfind can afind a combination of nature and luxury resortresort in thisin place. White sandy beach and sparkling this place. White sandy beach and sparkling blue water go hand hand comfort of firstof first blue water go in hand in with handthe with the comfort class class accommodation. Discover the idyllic private accommodation. Discover the idyllic private beachbeach that isthat hardiscome elsewhere. hard by come by elsewhere.

6. Lake Kaolin 6. Lake Kaolin

This abandoned kaolin kaolin mine mine is a is hidden This abandoned a hidden photographer’s paradise. The beauty of this of place photographer’s paradise. The beauty thislies place lies on theon contrast of sparkling blue water and white the contrast of sparkling blue water and white kaolin, kaolin, which makes a fascinating photo background. which makes a fascinating photo background.

7. H.A.S. Hanandjoeddin 7. H.A.S. Hanandjoeddin International Airport(TJQ) International Airport(TJQ)

Access Access to the to islands is eveniseasier with 1 with hour115 the islands even easier hour 15 minutes direct direct ﬂights ﬂights from Singapore, for futher minutes from Singapore, for futher information please please contactcontact our exclusive partnerpartner information our exclusive GarudaGaruda Indonesia (www.garuda-indonesia.com). Indonesia (www.garuda-indonesia.com).

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8. Diving Underwater 8. Diving Underwater

Diving in the charming underwater world of East

Diving in the charming underwater world of East 9Belitung, in Siadong Island, Island, Manggar District.District. Belitung, in Siadong Manggar

Predominated in hardin coral Predominated hard this coraldive this spot dive oﬀers spot oﬀers excellent visibilityvisibility that gives diver excellent that any giveskind any ofkind of an diver an unforgettable experience. unforgettable experience.

9. Belitung Coffee 9. Belitung Coffee

Want to get toto get know Indonesian coffee coffee better?better? Want to know Indonesian Manggar is a destination that willthat givewill angive insight into into Manggar is a destination an insight Belitung coffee. coffee. There There are numerous local coffee Belitung are numerous local coffee shops in Manggar that each local flavors. shops in Manggar thatboasts each boasts local flavors.

10. ‘Laskar Pelangi’ Primary School 10. ‘Laskar Pelangi’ Primary School

The primary school school that gets after being The primary thatrecognition gets recognition after being used asused a setasinathe popular movie Laskar setIndonesian in the Indonesian popular movie Laskar Pelangi.Pelangi. This school will give sense of hope This school willa give a sense of and hope and whoit.visits it. A replica of building inspire inspire anyoneanyone who visits A replica of building has has beento made toinspiration be an inspiration to its visitors. been made be an to its visitors.

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Book your New Year’s trip today with these deals that take you to historic Siem Reap, Tokyo or your own private island in the Maldives.

The Aviary Hotel Learn about Khmer traditions while staying in boutique luxury at The Aviary Hotel in Siem Reap. This 25-room hotel is offering a cultural package for two, including a visit to Theam’s House, a three-in-one house, atelier and gallery; two tickets to Phare, the Cambodian circus and social enterprise; entry to APOPO Visitor Centre, to learn about land mine–detection rats; a three-course set dinner for two at Khmer restaurant Chanrey Tree situated in a traditional wooden Khmer house; and an exclusive shopping trip to DFSCambodia plus access to the lounge with free bubbly and coffee. Guests will also receive free Wi-Fi, daily breakfast and round-trip airport transfers. The Deal Siem Reap Retreat package: three nights in a Tailorbird Standard room, from US$435, through March 31. Use promo code: Retreat2018. theaviaryhotel.com.

f r o m t o p : c o u r t e s y o f th e av i a r y h o t e l ; c o u r t e s y o f pav i l i o n h o t e l k u a l a l u m p u r

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Above the Aviary pool in Siem Reap.

SUPERSAVER Pavilion Hotel Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Opened above the Pavilion shopping mall, this new hotel’s special launch package includes daily breakfast; 15 percent off dinner at The Courtyard; 30 percent off full body massages; 15 percent off treatment packages at Banyan Tree Spa; and 15 percent off Banyan Tree Essentials products. The Deal Opening Celebration package: a night in a City Oasis King room, from RM498, through March 31. banyantree.com.

Alila Wuzhen To celebrate the launch of this new resort in scenic Zheijiang province, Alila Wuzhen is giving their first guests a chance to explore the resort’s historic location. Guests who book a minimum two-night’s stay in a Garden suite will get daily breakfast; a tea basket of traditional Wuzhen Watertown snacks; and a couple or family snapshot at the resort. Guests can also choose between two activities: free car transfers to Wuzhen Watertown (excludes entry tickets) or a mini test-drive in the Chinese electric car NIO ES8 around new Wuzhen (available weekends only). The Deal Watertown package: a night in a Garden suite, from US$289, through March 31. To book, e-mail wuzhen@alilahotels. com or call 86-573/8871-2222. alilahotels.com.

tr av el andleisure asia .com / december 2018

deals

ROMANCE TAIWAN

Silks Club Whisk your loved one on an escape to the Taiwanese port city of Kaohsiung. The special deal includes two nights in a Junior King suite; airport pick-up; free upgrade to a room with sea views (subject to availability); unlimited access to the infinity pool, gym, sauna and steam rooms, and hot/cold pools; free entry to the weekend pool party; daily breakfast and afternoon buffet for two; a bottle of wine, welcome snack platter and fruit basket upon arrival; and a bespoke cake. Plus, book three nights to receive two complimentary meals at the hotel’s Ukai-Tei Grill restaurant. The Deal The Romance package: two nights in a Junior King suite, from NT$19,998, three nights from NT$29,999, through December 30, 2019. silks-club.com. THAILAND

Banyan Tree Phuket This dreamy coastal resort is offering a chance to retreat to your own private sanctuary. Book at least three nights in

Banyan Tree Phuket’s meditative Spa Pool villas and you’ll be entitled to a relaxing one-hour couple’s spa treatment at Banyan Tree Spa; 20 percent discount on all body massages; dinner for two at the Watercourt Restaurant; complimentary in-villa breakfast for two; romantic room set-up; and return airport transfers. The deluxe villas are designed to rejuvenate, with hydrojet Jacuzzis, outdoor bathtubs, tranquil surrounding gardens, and a bedroom with calming lights, music and aromatherapy. The Deal Sense of Romance package: a night in a Spa Pool villa, from Bt31,366, through March 31. banyantree.com.

gourmet chocolates; an aromatic bath decorated with petals and candles; a signature Anantara 60-minute couple’s massage; and a 30-minute professional photo shoot. Extend the luxury and stay six days to receive a three-course dinner for two; or stay seven days or more to receive 50 percent off return airport transfers by luxury boat. All couples enjoy the full use of facilities at sister properties Anantara Dhigu Maldives and Anantara Veli Maldives. The Deal The Honeymoon Dream package: four nights in an Ocean or Beach House, from US$3,694, through January 8, 2020. anantara.com.

MALDIVES

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CITY Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo Book a stylish stay with this package from Mandarin Oriental and Christian Louboutin Beauté. The glamorous deal includes a stay in an Oriental suite; breakfast at K’shiki or Oriental Lounge; one 60-minute Christian Louboutin manicure; one 60-minute Christian Louboutin pedicure; one Rouge Louboutin

cocktail at Mandarin Bar; one bottle of Christian Louboutin Deluxe Mini Parfum; a full line-up of Christian Louboutin Lip Color and Nail Color (including Manicure Care and Loubi Under Red); one Christian Louboutin–themed bouquet; one bottle of red wine; and a seasonal fruit plate. The Deal Christian Louboutin Stay package: a night in an Oriental suite, from ¥1,130,000, through March 31. mandarinoriental.com. HONG KONG

The Langham, Hong Kong Plan your city stay a month in advance and be rewarded with a special price at this world-class Hong Kong hotel. You’ll receive 20 percent off the Best Available Rate and complimentary Wi-Fi when you book at least 30 days in advance—and if you make the reservation via langhamhotels.com, you’ll also get complimentary access to a pocket Wi-Fi device during your stay to help you explore the city with ease. The Deal Advance Purchase offer: a night in Superior Courtyard View room, from HK$2,120, through December 31, 2019. langhamhotels.com.

FAMILY

Dining at Ukai-Tei Grill at Silks Club.

december 2018 / tr av el andleisure asia .com

c o u r t e s y o f s i l ks c l u b

SINGAPORe

Park Hotel Clarke Quay Bring the kids along for the ride on your next trip to the Lion City—children under 12 stay for free with this offer from Park Hotel Clarke Quay. You’ll get breakfast for the entire brood; complimentary Wi-Fi; weekend upgrades; and complimentary kids’ meals when accompanied by paying adults at Porta Restaurant. The riverside hotel is tailored for traveling families, with connecting rooms, cots, bathtubs, bottle sterilizers and more available. The Deal Family Moments: a night in a Connecting room, from S$899, through June 30. parkhotelgroup.com.

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ALL THE WONDERS OF BINTAN AWAIT A mere hour from Singapore via high-speed catamaran you’ll find multi award-winning Bintan Resorts. This integrated tropical beach resort destination on the Indonesian island Bintan has four designer golf courses, amazing cultural and nature sites, and an array of recreational facilities. Here are four steps to making the most of this adventure paradise.

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STEP 1: Get cozy Whether you’re looking for luxury, budget-friendly, or family-focused, there’s the perfect bed for everyone. Trendy, apartment-style Cassia Bintan is great for groups. Adventure seekers can go glamping with modern comforts at The Canopi. Families with young kids will love Club Med Bintan Island and Nirwana Gardens. For opulence, nothing beats the unparalleled views of The Sanchaya or the award-wining spa treatments at Banyan Tree Bintan. STEP 2: Get to know your neighborhood You’ve got easy access to an array of attractions for an action-packed day. At Safari Lagoi and Eco Farm, meet endangered and rescued local species including Sumatran elephants and orangutans, Komodo dragons and a 6-metre crocodile; and get back to nature by planting or harvesting tropical crops. The contemporary mall Plaza Lagoi is a one-stop retail, entertainment and F&B hub. Indulge in lunch against photogenic settings at Food ★gram food court. At Rumah Imaji trick eye museum, interact with optical illusions and installations. Cocktail in hand, catch the spectacular sunset at Lagoi Beach or Yeah! Lounge. Come nightfall, admire the mesmerizing displays of endangered animals and marine life at Lagoi Bay Lantern Park, or the magical twinkling lights of fireflies and starry skies on a Mangrove Discovery Night Tour. STEP 3: Get a sense of place Touring the island’s culture and heritage sites offers an authentic local experience. Begin your day at Vihara Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva (500 Lohan Temple), a temple where you will be welcomed by 500 life-like stone statues of arhats and other intricately carved Chinese structures. Next, board the pompong (water taxi) at the jetty of Tanjung Pinang and head to Pulau Penyengat, an island that was the seat of power in the last phase of the Malay Kingdom. Be transported back to the illustrious days of the royal family as you tour the island on a becak (motorized trishaw) to visit the palace ruins, mausoleums and the majestic Sultan of Riau’s Grand Mosque.Continue the ride to Senggarang Village, said to be the first settlement for Chinese immigrants hundreds of years

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ago. Discover some of the oldest pilgrimage sites of Bintan Island, the centuries-old Banyan Tree Temple as well as the temple complex of Lau Ya Keng. Return to the mainland of Tanjung Pinang for a delightful local lunch and to immerse in the daily action of this bustling port. The Tanjung Pinang Wet Market offers an eye-opening experience of Bintan’s produce and fresh catch. Stock up on treats like dried seafood and kerupuk at the Tanjung Pinang Traditional Market. Finish your retail fix at the island’s biggest mall, Tanjung Pinang City Center. STEP 4: Get off the beaten path Bintan Island’s pristine eastern coast holds hidden gems waiting to be discovered. Orang Laut (Sea Gypsies) keep up a fascinating culture, and on a visit to Panglong Village at Berakit, among a labyrinth of stilt houses, you’ll see their handmade fishing tools and the natural way they dry seafood in the sun. Further south, a beautiful trail of the Stations of the Cross leads to an idyllic chapel at Grotto Santa Maria. Before heading back, savour both the crispy, authentic wood-fired pizzas at beloved Pizza Casa Italia, and breathtaking views of the Trikora Coast lined with kelongs (floating fishing platforms). Just another fulfilling day on wondrous Bintan Island! Cover the must-sees and must-dos of Bintan Island with convenient tour options. Craft and own the island experience now. Contact holiday@bintan-resorts.com or +65 6389 3710/278 to enquire and customize your tour.

ONLY-IN-BINTAN EXPERIENCES

• Crystal Lagoon: Cable ski, ride a Jetovator, take a swim or simply dip your toes in the crystal-clear, first and largest man-made seawater lagoon in Southeast Asia. • Safari Lagoi and Eco Farm: Enjoy a plate of rojak with fresh fruits after exploring this exciting wildlife refuge that specializes in caring for animals and birds rescued from the illegal pet trade and exotic meat markets. • Sports: Join in the fun at events like Bintan Triathlon, Tour De Bintan and the upcoming Bintan KasmaRUN 2018, a colour fun run happening this New Year’s eve.

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1. A Jetovator ride on Crystal Lagoon, Chill Cove at Treasure Bay Bintan. 2. Try spotting famous Chinese characters such as Journey to the West’s Tripitaka at the 500 Lohan Temple. 3. Purchase affordable dried seafood in Tanjong Pinang Traditional Market. 4. Let your imagination fly free in the mind-bending, interactive settings of Rumah Imaji. 5. Bond with rescued wildlife at Safari Lagoi and Eco Farm. 6. Tour the historic and colourful Pulau Penyengat. 7. A rejuvenating spa treatment at Banyan Tree Spa. 8. Savour wood-fired pizza beside the spectacular Trikora Coast.

• Mangrove Replanting: Volunteer for mangrove replanting activities and contribute to the protection of Bintan’s beautiful coastal ecosystem. • Gong Gong: Usually boiled or steamed as a dish and served with a zesty sauce, this sea snail is an iconic dish of Bintan island. Order it at the Kelong Seafood Restaurant of Nirwana Gardens.

YO U R P E R F E C T E S C A P E * Step away from your everyday, onto our sun-kissed shores. Breathe in the crisp ocean air and immerse yourself in a green oasis of calm. Times slows down here, washed away by languid waves. Embark on your journey to tranquillity. *A 55-minute ferry ride from Singapore

W E L C O M E T O T H E R E S I D E N C E B I N TA N

TUNIS | MAURITIUS | ZANZIB AR | MALDIVES | BINTAN

CENIZARO.COM/THERESIDENCE

december 2018

t h e r e ’ s s t i l l t i m e t o b e at t h e c r o w d s c e r ta i n t o b e he aded for idy llic p h i l i p p i n e s u r f c a p i ta l

siargao

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p. 74

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p. 112

Shredding powder at Grandeco Resort in Japan’s Tohoku region, page 86.

Time and Tide

Nay Palad Hideaway’s custom yacht, docked off Mamon Island, an hour from Siargao.

If small-town surfing center Siargao Island isn’t already on your radar, it will be very soon. Jeninne Lee-St. John propellers out to the eastern edge of the Philippines, where hand-woven hammocks hang on still-empty sands, laissez-faire beach life sets the tone at bars, in boutique hotels and on the breaks—and the Pacific currents roll in uninterrupted. photogr aphed by scott a . woodward

tr av el andleisure asia .com / december 2018

I’m having heart palpitations,” I said to Scott, my photographer pal I was traveling with, as we sat down to a lunch spread of chicken, grilled fish, and bowls of wholegrains and veggies. “Are you OK?” he put his fork down, concerned. I looked at the white-ringed pool straight out of Santorini surrounded by woven daybeds and leaf-shaped loungers, and the green-green lawn dotted with oversized four-poster beds and palm trees with swinging pods in the form of teardrops. The wide beach and the shallows stretched beyond, containing what looked like a gazebo about 800 meters offshore and a distant sandbar out in the middle of the horizon. The skies were clear, my chair was facing the sun and I had just been handed a fresh coconut spiked with spiced rum. I was more than OK. I was in a paradisiacal dream and I was terrified I wouldn’t have enough time to enjoy it all before I woke up. We were having our first meal in Nay Palad Hideaway, a boutique beach resort on Siargao Island, at the eastern edge of the Philippine archipelago. I’d been trying to get here for years. A big part of the appeal has been that it isn’t anywhere close to easy-access. You can only fly via Manila or Cebu, and six-plus-hour layovers have a way of keeping places off the international-weekend-jaunt map. Siargao, in Surigao del Norte province, sits just above breadbasket Mindanao but is far removed from any of the conflicts that have plagued that larger island. Its natural beauty attractions are akin to those you may have heard of in Palawan: rock pools, underground caves, limestone cliffs. But Siargao’s real draws are the seclusion, the social life, and the surf. It is a favored weekend getaway for those from Manila, who come to stay in the chill beach-shack hotels, hang in the laidback bars and restaurants lining the main strips, and to zone out on the empty beaches. At the same time, as the direct recipient of uninterrupted Pacific currents and winds, the island is the surfing capital of the country. With consistent long rolling tubes, Cloud 9 is the most famous break, but there are sundry others. By simply typing those two sentences I’ve earned the ire of loads of surfers worried about the wider world discovering their seaside secret. In fairness, the concern is increasingly valid. This year Cebu completed a renovation of its international terminal; in Siargao there are plans to expand the airport and they’ve already begun widening the road that connects it to the main tourist hub of General Luna—construction that accounted for the only traffic we saw the whole trip. With Nay Palad, by far the island’s most luxurious resort, having just completed a rebranding that included adding a stunning three-bedroom villa that starts at US$3,300 per couple per night, how long can the island hold off other developers trying to ride a tourism tide?

december 2018 / tr av el andleisure asia .com

outheast Asia is scattered with plenty of tiny destinations accessible only by prop plane, but once you walk across the tarmac into most of those airports you wind up in a room containing a little baggage carousel. When I touched down in Siargao, I walked into essentially a loading dock in which arriving passengers waited for airline workers to deposit our bags directly at our feet. Bus-terminal chic. Yes, this was still off the grid. I was overjoyed. In a happy coincidence, Scott and I had booked our trip during a time that overlapped with a wedding some of my friends from Manila were attending. Our first night, we flagged a habal-habal—a motorbike taxi with an elongated backseat—to meet my friend Steph and her husband Jonathan at a Basque-themed beach club called Bravo in General Luna. We found them having tapas at a long table by the pool. Even after dusk it was sweltering. We cooled down with glasses of Pinot Grigio loaded up with ice cubes. Persuaded to go to the full-moon party, we piled into a tricycle to a beach bar named Palaka that, by day, serves as a dive center. The beach, which I would later learn is the main dock by the central market, was filled with girls with bikini strings poking out of their tops and guys with long hair in board shorts, all clutching San Miguels as house music pumped. The word that might come to mind in such a scenario is “sketchy” but it wasn’t actually that at all. It was more like a high school dance… with a fire show. Siargao may be a surf center but its popularity is relatively recent. There remained an air of innocence about the party that was of a piece with the overall vibe of the island. It was a vibe I bought into fully when the smiling bar cashier nudged her plate of hot, hand-cut french fries at me. Who can resist hand-cut french fries from a stranger? While I was blabbering about how wholesome and friendly Siargao had already proven itself to be, we got in another tricycle, this one prepped for a party: flashing lights, disco balls. We asked cheekily if we could pick the music and the driver handed over a plug for a phone jack. We wrapped up the night at inside-outside pool hall Loose Keys. Our friends Aziza and Allana were passing and they popped in to say hi. It was as if the gods had conspired to meet all my small-town expectations in one night.

lopped Alice-style on a double-size, double-high Wonderland bed, contemplating the position of the sun and just how I was going to allocate my lounging time between our vast villa and the rest of the resort, which we basically also had all to ourselves, I heard my phone ring. It was Steph. “The wedding reception is at the next hotel over from yours,” she said. “We can come early and walk down the beach to you.” “Uh, no, you can’t,” I said, glancing skeptically northward, where waves were lapping up at a promontory of trees that marked Nay Palad’s property line. “Sure,” she said. “It’ll be fine.” The change of tide here is dramatic, and was made all the more so during our visit by the full moon. The vast

Nay Palad Hideawayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new top-of-the-line villa has two fairy-lit master bedrooms with perfect pool views. clockwise from top left:

Acting shady in a Nay Palad woven basket swing; the resort's oversize entrance; what passes for a light lunch.

The surf culture at Cloud 9 retains an air of innocence. opposite: Playing Alice in one of Nay Paladâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wonderland beach beds.

i was in a paradisiacal dream, and i was terrified i wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T have enough time to enjoy it all before i woke up

tr av el andleisure asia .comâ&#x20AC;&#x2020;/ december 2018

A magic-hour stroll. clockwise from top left:

The lengthy boardwalk to Cloud 9; even the bar garnishes are homemade at Nay Palad; Nay Paladâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sea pagoda, 800 meters offshore; from the private treehouse of the resortâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s brandnew threebedroom villa.

and Jonathan strolled up smiling. On the property’s west side, a boardwalk winding through a mangrove forest filtering unbelievable magic-hour light brought us to the private three-story pier. Our beloved girl Friday, Flo Flo, followed with a cold bottle of Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc and a platter of canapés, and we sat in swings as the sun faded. We chatted about how the wedding had been on Naked Island, the large empty sandbar offshore where Scott had done a sun-beaten photo shoot a decade earlier. Back then, he said, most of the hotels and bars we’d seen in General Luna the night before were just palm groves.

T flats at low tide reminded me of a children’s book I used to love in which the main character has the ability to swallow the sea, and does so reluctantly to help a little boy pluck fish off the ocean floor. The ungrateful kid doesn’t come back when he’s called, so the hero runs out of breath, has to spit out the water, and drowns the boy. When I told Scott this story, he said it didn’t sound like a good book for kids. It wasn’t, but let’s just say the moral of that story was supposed to be that the ocean floor is full of peril. A visit to Cloud 9 will tell you that. The iconic wave breaks over a reef so far offshore they built a 200-meter boardwalk to reach it. A staircase descends into the ocean at standing depth, and you still have to paddle out from there. From the third floor of the viewing tower, a tourist destination in its own right, it looks, I was told, like a perfect line of beauty. Facing it from the water, it’s a thick hollow tube that looks consistent and seems like it should be easily readable (by my instructor, I mean; I’ve only surfed like 10 times). But it also rolls in on what I’ll call the Siargao flats—long, reef-bottomed shallows that can cut you up big time. I had two fist-pumpingly fun lessons, but I definitely would have been in and out if I weren’t wearing a pair of neoprene sport socks. It’s crystal clear why they say this wave at its lowest is definitely not at its safest. So, Steph, of course, was right: here in Siargao all that matters is watching the tide. By the time their paraw pulled up to Nay Palad a couple of hours later, the water had receded so much that they actually had to disembark a bit offshore. No neoprene or fish plucking for them, she

he following morning we found ourselves back at the pier. Nay Palad has five of their own boats, and the star is a plush, custom-built yacht capable of navigating the twice-daily low waters of the mangrove channel in which it docks. We cruised out the kill, passing a village in front of which tiny kids were splashing in the shallows. Here I should point out that I know a tropical island is the last place you’re supposed to care about the Wi-Fi. Digital detox. Be present. All that, yes. But sometimes you need to, say edit stories, or upload your pics to the cloud… or to your social media so everyone can see how awesome your job can be. Nay Palad is in a section of Siargao tucked under a mountain. They’re building their own cell tower but, when we were there, the signal on-site was spotty. We had no choice but to embrace a de facto disconnection. Nearly a kilometer out at sea, though, every phone on the boat started pinging. We were pulling physically farther from civilization while the reappearance of the Internet was pushing us virtually closer to the world. Full service imparted a weird feeling of relief and reluctance. Once Scott and I got our WhatsApp and Instagram fixes, we tucked our phones back away to devote our attention to the placid seas, the lush islands in the distance in every direction, the fishing boats we occasionally slowed down to pass. We wondered if building that tower was going to wind up helping to ruin the reverie. After about an hour, we pulled up to a little spit of sugar sands ringing a hill of thin forest. The water shimmered Tiffany-box blue speckled with seaweed-covered coral. I wanted in ASAP, but the staff were all readying our supplies to take ashore. It was caravan by paddleboard: beach chairs, bags of towels, tableware, coolers filled with wine and beer and lunch fixings, and a barbecue grill were loaded atop fat paddleboards and floated to the beach. As soon as they were done, I hopped on one and set about exploring our surrounds. Watching schools of fish darting through the transparent water, I could see why the strait between Mamon, where we were docked, and La Janoza across the way is a coveted snorkeling spot. It seemed an inordinate number of paraws had begun to arrive at Mamon—with chickens. I joked to our guide that they were probably going to eat them, and he said, “Sometimes, but only if you’re immune to the poison.” It turned out there was a secret cockfighting ring on this island, and some owners dab poison on their talons to give tr av el andleisure asia .com / december 2018

their birds an edge. It was Sunday. “The women go to church,” our guide said, “and the men can go to the fight.” I admired the litter of outriggers they left behind on the beach—a jellybean basket of empty boats, the perfect cliché Philippine island photo if there ever was one—from the gazebo our five minders had rendered five-star for us, laying out a woven tablecloth covered with grilled shrimp, fish and chicken, carrot salad, fried rice, fruit and a pile of coconut chocolate-chip cookies Scott went bonkers for. The sunglasses-wearing chef tossed a wok of noodles over the fire and my heart melted a little, reminding me why I love living in Southeast Asia, this DIY, tradition-blending, just-figure-out-how-to-get-it-done attitude.

t’s a mindset we saw in full-force on a very different afternoon, when Nay Palad was putting on a spaying and neutering clinic in a nearby village (where they also sponsor the elementary school). They had flown in a few veterinarians from Manila, put them up at the resort, and put the word out across the island to bring their cats and dogs to get fixed. Those without a vehicle just had to call, and Kate, the resort’s bubbly, American, management trainee, would fetch the animals in her cartoonish big red dune buggy. I later learned that among the resort owners’ other projects is Compostela, a sustainable rainforest village they built for 500 former scavengers who used to live on a dumpsite in Cebu City. Knowing about this community stewardship goes a ways towards offsetting the guilt of staying somewhere with such a high room rate. So does the fact that the resort is all-inclusive from food and beverage to day trips (a good pick is a sail to the karst-ringed, emerald-pooled Sohoton Cove, accessible only through a hole in a rock when the tide ebbs). It is assumed you will treat the property like home. If you want a drink and there’s no bartender, just head back and pour it yourself; if you want to watch a movie under the stars, the staff will string a screen between the palm trees. Airport pick-ups are in a

Siargao

With the lengthy layovers, it's not a quick trip to Siargao from overseas. Allot two days of travel time plus at least four full days there to really get into the island vibe.

comfortably kitted out, couch-lined antique jeepney. The spa is set up like a fairy village, and once you put on their bespoke Turkish-towel, hoodied and tassled bathrobe, you’re not going to want to take it off. (I, in fact, spent half my trip in one. An overpacker in the best of times, I found myself with three times as many clothes as I needed.) They manage this level of service by limiting the number of villas occupied by separate parties to six. And in truth, the villas alone offer enough distraction by sheer will of their playful, tasteful luxury. Scott and I were able to share the new three-bedroom pad—complete with firepit, tree house and porch swing—because there were two master bedrooms, both facing the private pool and the beach, and both with giant bathrooms whose ceilings were half given over to massive rain shower heads, putting to shame anyone else’s definition of rain shower ever.

ot until we were nearly done planning this trip did I realize Aziza runs a travel agency that specializes in Siargao. I just thought she was being friendly. But she organized the wedding everyone was in town for, and besides spending her childhood here on holiday, her ties to the island stretch back generations. She emphasized how committed she and other Siargao boosters are to not letting the island become another Boracay—encouraging developers to have proper irrigation solutions before they build, tourists to participate in organized beach cleanups and volunteers to support Nature Kids of Siargao, which helps residents upcycle and live more sustainably. One evening, she picked up Scott and me in a paraw bearing her name, and her boatman motored us across the strait to Daku Island. It has a curve of beach facing west to Siargao that is a favored spot for sunset-seekers. Sitting in the sand, we caught the last rays of the day, then walked through the village, amid the competing din of several convenience stores-cum-karaoke huts. Aziza’s mom was

Getting there

Manila

Siargao

Fly into Manila or Cebu, then catch a regular PAL Express (philippineairlines.com) or CebGo (cebupacificair.com) connection to General Luna; SkyJet (flyskyjetair.com) runs flights between Manila and General Luna five days a week. Rainy season starts in January; typhoon season is February and March. The best surfing is September to November. Stay

Mindanao Island

Nay Palad Hideaway The top accommodation in Siargao is the playful, relaxed epitome of rustic-chic barefoot luxury. There are just nine one- and two-bedroom villas with fun touches like rocking horses and porchswings, plus one brand-new three-

december 2018 / tr av el andleisure asia .com

bedroom villa that features a pool, a projection screen in the kids’ room and its own firepit. Rates are all-inclusive of food, beverages, spa treatments, use of the resort’s private boats, various excursions including island-hopping and surfing lessons, activities such as yoga and watersports, and round-trip airport transfers. naypalad.com; from US$630 per person per night. Tour

Destino Luxe Travel and Tours A boutique agency with a personal dedication to responsible tourism in Siargao. They can book your entire itinerary, or just one-off day trips or excursions—and recommend ways to give back. destinoluxe@gmail.com; call James at 63-977/651-5397.

on the porch and, though she wasn’t expecting us, she smiled knowingly, as if her daughter brought back random stragglers to enjoy her hospitality regularly. She told us that she, too, had grown up coming to these islands, her father having served three terms as a congressman for the area. When they built this house in the 1990s, the family slept on mattresses on the floor, and had no electricity, only turning the generator on at night. Her kids plucked sea urchins off the beach, fish from the ocean floor. During a lull in the waves on my second morning out on Cloud 9, I had a couple of minutes to stop being out of breath and actually contemplate the island in front of me. Would this wave that made the place famous contribute to its undoing? The cool kids have been deriding it as “Crowd 9” for a while. Certainly, I wasn’t supposed to be out here, but the locals had a system. The real surfers stick to the bigger side of the break. Beginners head to the other side where instructors can control your boards and chat with each other over your heads like parents minding kids on the playground. If my teacher, Doy Doy, changed his mind about whether I should try to catch a wave, he’d just pull back my leash and resume scanning the horizon for the next one. The mood on the water was convivial, there was an etiquette. “Ladies first!” he’d shout to call dibs on a wave for me, and “last wave!” to signal it was my final ride of the day, so everyone get out of the way, thank you very much. I guess I didn’t embarrass Doy Doy on day one, because for this second lesson, he put me on a shorter board than I’d ever ridden. When he called out “last wave”—even though I had told him to—my heart broke a bit, since it was also our last day in Siargao, and we’d be heading to the airport soon. Aziza met us at the pier to say goodbye. She and Kate had become pals during our visit, and they were having lunch. During our six-hour layovers in Cebu, they sent Scott and me photos of their wholesome island day, and said they were en route to Daku so Aziza could introduce yet another straggler to her mama. We sighed. At least someone was still living the paradisiacal dream.

Looking towards Siargao from Naked Island. clockwise from left:

Two captains are better than one; anchored off Mamon Island; a happy afternoon at Malinao Elementary.

BEAUTIFUL BELITUNG DREAMY BEACH HOLIDAYS IN BELITUNG ARE NOW EVEN EASIER WITH DIRECT FLIGHTS FROM KUALA LUMPUR TO THE TROPICAL HIDEAWAY IN EAST SUMATRA.

The Lighthouse on Pulau Lengkuas.

In the middle of the East Sumatran island of Belitung are snow-white mounds surrounding a clear blue lake in the middle of nowhere. But don’t think these are tropical glaciers, Danau Kaolin is actually a kaolin mine that has been filled with water to become a gorgeous artificial lake. It is one of many spectacular sites on the sunkissed Indonesian island, which is now more quickly accessible for relaxing weekend getaways with the opening of the new H.A.S Hanandjoedin International Airport in Belitung’s district capital of Tanjung Pandan. Known for its tin mining history, Belitung shot to even greater fame as the setting of native writer Andrea Hirata’s

2005 debut novel Laskar Pelangi (The Rainbow Troops), a heartwarming tale, later made into a musical and a television series, of how a group of teachers and students fought for the right to education and a better future. Now you can personally experience Indonesia’s five wonders—beautiful scenery, amazing food, intriguing arts and culture, myriad leisure options, and exciting outdoor adventures—in this idyllic isle described by Hirata in his book. Sparkling clear waters and white sandy beaches beckon the moment you land and there are plenty of these to explore. Tanjung Tinggi and Tanjung Kelayang beaches are the more popular ones, yet

Crystal-clear waters around Belitung.

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sufficiently devoid of the madding crowds for travellers to enjoy sea breezes with book in hand on a mat in the sand.

ECO-ADVENTURES GALORE

Belitung also has more than 100, mostly uninhabited, surrounding islands where you can dive, snorkel, canoe or go island hopping to take photos with the stars— star fish, that is. At Pulau Lengkuas, you can climb up to a working 19th-century lighthouse for panoramic views or get a permit to camp overnight on the beach for a memorable night of stargazing. Explore intriguing rock formations at Pulau Batu Berlayar and Pulau Batu Garuda or save corals and baby turtles during allinclusive stays at the eco lodge at Pulau Kepayang, which works with the Kepayang Island Conservation Centre on sustainable activities. More of an adventurous trekker than a water baby? Take a rented car to Batu Baginde, a pair of giant granite rocks surrounded by dense vegetation and regarded by the locals as a sacred place for blessings. Local guides are mandatory for beginners as the climb to the summit is rather steep, but the spectacular views at the top are well worth the effort.

Belitung’s one of a kind beaches.

DELICIOUS MEALS ARE ALWAYS CLOSE BY

After all the physical activities, it is time to fill the hungry stomach. Sahang Beachfront Café & Resto comes highly recommended for its signature mocktails using backyard organic ingredients and beautifully plated dishes such as Zori-ebi slipper prawn served with seasonal Seliu mango, and Bird in a Cage, a local duck or chicken flavored with Indonesian spices and presented in a beautiful pine cage. International, Chinese and local dishes are also available. A short five-minute drive from Tanjung Tinggi beach is Kampong Dedaun, where you can cycle, kayak or laze in lounge chairs or hammocks by the beach before indulging in hearty seafood dishes such as fish head soup (gangan ketarap), grilled squid and beef curry. For live music and interaction with locals, head to open-air beach restaurant Unique Bistro, which is well known for serving amazing coffee and a wide selection of tasty yet reasonably priced Indonesian and Western dishes. Literature lovers will enjoy the colorful Museum Kata Andrea Hirata, the first and only literary museum in Indonesia. Set up by Hirata as a replica of the elementary school he attended as a child – the

A Belitung tarsier.

original school is actually nearby—it contains various translations of Hirata’s famous book as well as exhibitions on Belitung’s geology, history and literary arts. Nearby is coffee shop Warung Kupi Kuli, where you can savor an aromatic cuppa in a vintage wooden building and cart a few bottles home as souvenirs. If that’s not enough, Manggar town is the center for strong aromatic brews in Belitung. Don’t miss Warung Kopi Anui’s Es Kopi Susu (iced milk coffee); the perfect salve for a blazing day and a sweet finish to your adventure on the magical island. For more information, visit www. indonesia.travel.

HOW TO GET THERE Take a direct two-hour Sriwijaya Air charter flight from Kuala Lumpur or fly to Jakarta for a connecting flight to Belitung on Garuda Indonesia (www. garuda-indonesia.com) with four direct flights each week or aboard Sriwijaya Air (sriwijayaair.co.id). New to the air is the four times weekly service on Garuda Indonesia between Singapore and Belitung. WHERE TO STAY Once there, accommodation options abound: from beachside gems such as the new Fairfield by Marriott Belitung (Marriott.com) and La Lucia Boutique Hotel (www.prasanthi-hotels.com) to modern comfort in MaxOneHotels at Belstar Belitung (Jalan Sriwijaya Sebelah Kanan, Tanjung Pagan) and heritage-filled boutique Billiton Hotel (www.billitonhotel.com). Big groups will find BW Suite Belitung (bwsuitebelitung. com) a fun playground with a host of recreational facilities from billiards and karaoke rooms to infinity and kiddy pools for adults and children to have a good time.

Winter, Winter

C ou rt esy of G in z a n On se n

The gingerbread village known as Ginzan Onsen, in Yamagata prefecture.

Japan is the skiing capital of Asia, but most travelers donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get beyond Hokkaido. Head off-piste with Adam H. Graham to lessknown resorts with classical-painting views, nearly empty slopes and daily free refills of the dreamiest powder youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll ever have the privilege to wipe out in.

Everywhere

C o u rtesy of g ra n d ec o r es ort h ot e l a n d ski . o pp o s it e f r om top : c o urt esy o f d o g o o n se n; S HINS U K E M ATSU K AWA

FROM ABOVE: Historic Dogo Onsen was the inspiration behind Spirited Away; steamy replenishment at Nishimuraya Honkan, one of the country’s best ryokan. opposite: On the slopes above ski-in/ ski-out Grandeco Resort Hotel and Ski in Fukushima prefecture.

It finally happened. I wiped out, yard-sale style, on Hakuba Goryu’s Soft Cream course in a two-meter bank of snow at the Nagano resort. I’d been clumsy all day so had been anticipating a collision: I’d crossed skis with my fluent Japanese-speaking friend Nicola after getting off the Cosmo Four lift, knocking us both over. I’d left my helmet atop a vending machine after slamming a hot can of Van Houten cocoa. And I’d made a pinball-like obstacle course of a group of hipster Tokyo snowboarders passively sitting on their Burtons waiting for a white-out to blow over (unlike the daredevil snowboarders in Europe, who’d relish the chance to bomb down piste in a blizzard). It just wasn’t my day on the slopes. But the wipeout was a revelation. Snow in this part of Japan is so soft and powdery that falling into it is like cocooning in a down, baby blanket. Deep inside the snow bank’s embrace, it’s warm and safe and I felt like a hibernating cub. Wipeouts are not something to fear in Japan. They’re a total luxury. There are 598 ski resorts in Japan and I’ve skied at a handful of them. Many spots in Japan claim to be the snowiest place on the planet, with meters of “free refills” almost guaranteed every night. While these claims are hard to prove, what is true, and perhaps more important, is that 36 of Japan’s 47 prefectures have ski resorts, so you’re never more than an hour or two from piste. While Hokkaido gets a lot of ink for its 120 ski resorts including Niseko—Japan’s cosmopolitan equivalent of St. Moritz is the most popular but arguably most generic of ski resorts in the country—334 micro-ski resorts are in Honshu, including two in sight of Mount Fuji. The island of Shikoku is home to five ski resorts and three are even found on subtropical dangling Kyushu. I spent a week skiing in Hokkaido but was disappointed by how un-Japanese it was. English is ubiquitous on the slopes, the Japanese etiquette was missing, and the ramen and karaage (Japanese fried chicken) was ridiculously overpriced and not nearly as tasty as it is in other parts of the country. Like many things in the Land of the Rising Sun, good things come in small packages, and over the course of my five years of Japanese ski trips, I’ve discovered that smaller resorts, in Honshu for example, are generally more Japanese and more authentic than the big names. Even if they don’t offer as much varied terrain and on-slope services, the payoff is that you may have the entire piste to yourself on a weekday and will surely get a less expensive (and better) meal than in Niseko. And while clear-sky bluebird days are not as common in Japan as they are in the European Alps or North American Rockies, a rare sunny day is possible. Anyway, since you can find runs so close to most major Japanese cities, all you really need is a bluebird hour or two.

Hakuba,

three hours from Tokyo in Nagano prefecture, was host of the 1998 Winter Olympics. My visit there marked the first time I skied in Japan. Nagano has a whopping 102 ski resorts, and Hakuba alone has tr av el andleisure asia .com / december 2018

nine ski areas, with five gondolas, 138 lifts and 200-plus runs. Altitude tops out at 1,800 meters, almost half the height of Europe and the U.S., and there are 400 hectares of skiable terrain, as opposed to France’s 26,000-hectare Trois Vallèes or even British Columbia’s 3,200-hectare Whistler. But there was no shortage of space on the mountain during my visit. Which was lucky for me, because I quickly learned that skiing in Japan takes some getting used to. It started with the equipment: Hakuba had ski boots in my size, but most other resorts didn’t cater to gaijin feet. Naturally, then, I shouldn’t have been surprised to find that lifts are designed for shorter skiers and require more abdominal might to hurl yourself out of. Tall skiers like me (189 centimeters) should also take care to not dangle their sticks from the lift during take-off because snowbanks pile up fast and you could easily snag your ski on one. Occasionally, unlike in the West, there’s a lift attendant dusting off the seat and bowing to you as you get on, to help you avoid these errors. And the piste itself? It’s generally much tamer in Japan, a reminder of the country’s “safety first” culture—though there are increasingly more challenging black trails and a slowly growing tolerance for off-piste skiing, including free-riding, slackcountry, and split-boarding. Amusingly, the skier-snowboarder dynamic is flipped in Japan. Here, it’s the skiers who shred the catwalks and make chowder of the moguls, while blue trails are peppered with overly cautious new boarders, like the ones I pinballed through during my wipeout. Japan, like Switzerland, values safety over speed. But unlike in Switzerland, the slopes here are filled with Thais, Hong Kongers, Singaporeans and mainland Chinese who may be encountering snow for the first time. Once during a near-collision, Nicola yelled out to a helmeted boarder, who answered her perfect Japanese warning call with a tonal Cantonese yelp. While the newbies might hamper slope traffic, they offered me one upside: In Switzerland, I’m used to being the slow steady skier. But here in Japan, I was downright advanced. Little triumphs are everything. Overall, the pros of skiing here far outweigh any cons, particularly when it comes to aprés-ski options. Just outside of Hakuba, I spent a glorious few nights soaking in an onsen in woodsy Karuizawa, the former haunt of John Lennon and Yoko Ono, and current summer escape for Bill Gates and the Japanese royal family. Karuizawa is also home to a boomlet of new hotels including the ski-in/ ski-out Karuizawa Prince Hotel East, part of a constellation of five local Prince hotels, and the Tobira Onsen Myojinkan, a divine 44-room room Relais & Château ryokan where I soaked in onsen baths that elicited deep sighs of envy from those who know the historic 1931 property. I also made a brisk winter walk to Kumano Kotai Jinja Shrine. I found a nest of musasabi (giant flying squirrels) during a woodsy stroll. I tried and won several ends of curling at the local ice rink’s curling hall (beginners luck!). And I made a pilgrimage to the nearby Jigokudani Yaen-Koen National Park, where I

december 2018 / tr av el andleisure asia .com

FROM ABOVE: Monkeys take to the waters at Jigokudani Yaen-Koen National Park; opened this July, Kai Sengokuhara resort in FujiHakone-Izu National Park boasts onsen fed from Owakudani Valley. opposite: Hiking beneath the towering woods of Jigokudani.

deep inside the snowbank’s embrace, it’s warm and safe, and i felt like a hibernating cub

spied on beet-faced snow monkeys soaking in their very own hot pool. You won’t find that in Whistler or Megève.

FROM ABOVE: It’s 1,015 snowy steps up to the Yamadera Temple in Yamagata prefecture; organic French cuisine is served with forest views at Tobira Onsen Myojinka’s Nature French SAI restaurant.

december 2018 / tr av el andleisure asia .com

f ro m top : © Jn to ; c ou rt esy of Re l a is & Chât e aux

Skiing in historic Tohoku,

a region made up of Honshu’s six northernmost prefectures, was another personal highlight, with excellent ski terrain and dozens of rarefied cultural sites from which to cherrypick. Mount Zao Onsen, three-hours from Tokyo, may look a bit ramshackle, but the skiing is excellent, with skilled and friendly English-speaking guides, like mine, Takako from Zao Freezeit Ski and Snowboard School. During my two ski days with her, she pointed out the sublimely beautiful Jizo Buddhist statue at the top of the Sancho Ropeway and a few good-luck temple bells, which I’d seen on other Japanese ski slopes. And during a blast of cold Siberian air that momentarily turned the gossamer skies cobalt blue, we ventured high atop the mountain to see the notorious Snow Monsters. The summit was fog-sacked when we first arrived on the lift, but slowly emerging from the mist were tall creaking fir trees sealed in ice and coated in a lustrous fondant of snow, making each resemble a sort of giant gingerbread biscuit from The Great British Bake Off. I didn’t know if I should be scared or hungry. Skiing isn’t the only way to dive into winter here. Two hours away from Zao at the ski-in/ski-out Grandeco Resort Hotel and Ski in Fukushima Prefecture, I took a three-hour snowshoe hike in meter-high snow banks around a fragrant pine-lined ridge to turquoise Lake Bishamon, one of five volcanic lakes inside Bandai-Asahi National Park. Snowshoeing is not for the thin-blooded or faint of heart. Even on flat landscapes, it can be grueling glute work in deep snowbanks. But the reward is a twinkling ice-age world unlike anything you’ll see on the busy, groomed slopes. Freshies here refer to animal tracks in the fluffy crystalline snow, and the piercing calls of birdlife are vibrant reminders that life goes on in this winter wonderland. Unlike downhill skiing, where gravity pulling you down the slopes will always save you from the extremes of high-altitude weather, snowshoeing relies solely on your own power. So, as beautiful and tranquil as it is, any excursion for me is also peppered with fearful moments of freezing to death. Do as I did, and warm back up over a dinner of tender sukiyaki, the shiitake, tofu and marbled slices of beef, simmering in a sweet soy-and-mirin broth. The next morning, the mountain snow-replenished as promised, I had the entire Lavender B slope (one of eight named after herbs) to myself and did a few real freshies in the golden morning sunlight. The Tohoku region’s rich cultural offerings are also worth getting off the slope for. In Iwate prefecture I took a short boat ride through the scenic two-kilometer-long Geibikei Gorge, filled by the ice-blue Satetsu River and surrounded by vertiginous 50-meter cliffs. In Yamagata prefecture—where those seeking to extend the season should hit up Gassan Glacier Ski Resort; it only opens in April due to thick snow blocking its roads during its >>

GRAND TRADITIONS

Grand Mercure Yangon Golden Empire

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Grand Mercure Danang

court, and a complimentary shuttle to town and beach. An especially popular venue for special events and corporate functions, five modern meeting rooms feature generous natural lighting and the latest technology, while the Grand Ballroom proves an unforgettable backdrop for receptions and galas.

For more information, visit grandmercure.com or accorhotels.com.

Snow Monsters take in the view from Mount Zao.

aggressive winters, but offers skiing on the glacier until July—I ascended the 1,000 or so snow-dusted steps to the craggy Yamadera Temple, a pilgrimage site of the poet Basho who visited in 1689. And I descended another set of steps on Mount Haguro, one of three sacred mountains that is home to Yamabushi (a hybrid of Buddhist-Shinto mountain monks) and Gojunoto, a 12th-century, fivestory pagoda that lays quietly in a snowy cedar forest said to bring rebirth to anyone who visits it. Each sublime excursion was profound and a reminder that Japan has its own take on winter. It also didn’t hurt that they racked up the likes on my Instagram feed. And while the ancient sites awed, a stay nearby in the ultracontemporary Ginzan Onsen Fujiya, with a soaring timber-slat onsen conceived by Kengo Kuma is enough to push architecture fans over the edge into design nirvana.

Contrary to popular belief,

Southern Honshu is no stranger to skiing. In Shizuoka prefecture, two hours southwest of Tokyo, is Snowtown Yeti with jaw-dropping views of Mount Fuji. It’s the first ski slope to open every year in Japan, typically in early October with the help of artificial snow groomed in corduroy grids throughout the season. There are two lifts and four runs, plus snow-tube routes, sledding areas, and new terrain areas, like Jib Park, which opened in 2017. While I’m personally content with blue and green trails, advanced skiers will like Yeti’s black Slope D for its 25-degree drop. Like many of Honshu’s ski resorts, it has been refurbishing and rebranding to draw >>

Ik awa K ainayama, Tokushima Prefecture Less than an hour from the secret, misty Iya Valley, often considered Japan’s Shangri-La, this two-lift micro-resort offers 1.8 kilometers of piste at elevations up to 1,175 meters. ikawaski. jp; day pass from ¥3,500.

Snow tubing at Sol-Fa Oda.

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Sol-fa Oda, Ehime Prefecture Near the jazz and haiku city of Matsuyama is this wee three-lift resort with a mogul course, snow tubing, and sled lanes. Warm up after your run to the tunes of the all-female jazz band Lady Bird at Monk Club; with a soak in the

historic Dogo Onsen, the inspiration behind Studio Ghibli’s Spirited Away; or on a haiku cocktail crawl with local poet Iris. sol-fa.com; day pass from ¥4,100; matsuyamahaiku.jp/haito matsuyama/eng/bar. Esashi Shiei Koeji, Iwate Prefecture In the northern stretch of Tohoku’s Ou Mountains, this four-lift resort in the valley basin is best known for its slopes that are protected from strong wind gusts, and offers a dedicated kids’ ski day the third Sunday of each month. esashiiwate.gr.jp/koeji/course. html; day pass from ¥2,600.

Three More Magical Micro-Resorts

international tourists, and is even rumored to be tripling its night-skiing dates in 2019. A day here may not offer the variety of other resorts, but viewing the autumn foliage in the distant mountains from the snowy piste is another “only in Japan” moment that’s hard to beat. Fujiten Snow Resort, an hour away in Yamanashi Prefecture on the other side of Fuji, is expanding its downhill offerings with snowplow safaris, fireworks nights, family ski days, beginners’ camps, and even “lady skier” days, which I’d never heard of in Europe, for the 2018/2019 season. Fujiten’s seven courses and four lifts are enough to keep any level skier occupied for a day. This region has also seen an uptick of new places to stay, each one giving 17th-century artist Hokusai’s Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji a run for its money. The elegant 32-room Fufu Kawaguchiko, another newcomer on the shores of Lake Kawaguchi, is close to ice-caves and lava tubes, but also offers great access to Japan’s wine country, where I hiked through vineyards and sampled wines made from unique Japanese Koshu grapes, like Muscat Bailey, a dry, fruity red increasingly found on slope-side izakayas and winebars. Even after 10 visits to Japan, I found it impossible to not be dazzled by the privileged views of Fuji-san here. While soaking in various onsen, I watched Fuji-san disappear and reappear in the clouds and meditated on its role in Japan’s cultural history. Nearby in Kanagawa, design-minded Hoshino Properties has bolstered its portfolio with two new affordable, alpine-adjacent hotels. This July brought Kai Sengokuhara, located in Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, with 16 rooms offering cypress tubs and onsen fed from mineral-rich spring water from the Owakudani Valley. In Shizuoka Prefecture, Kai Ito Onsen will open this month, and promises equal amounts of Zen and luxury. Further afield is Setouchi’s Hyogo Prefecture, home to 16 ski resorts less than two hours from Osaka and Kyoto. Last December, it saw the opening of Japan’s first new ski resort in 14 years: Mineyama Kogen White Peak in the town of Kamikawa, with three trails and two lifts, plus Karmin Park dedicated to kids-only skiing. Make the most of a visit to the region, as I did, by staying in Kinosaki Onsen, 45 minutes from three micro-ski resorts including Oku Kannabe, Kannabe Kogen Apple, and Manba. The charming 8th-century onsen town is home to seven historic hot spring baths fed by the willow-shaded Otani-gawa River. Much as I love skiing, I love eating and soaking even more. It seemed all my shooshing across Japan earned me the right to seriously submerge, so donning my yukata and clunky, wooden geta sandals, I onsen-hopped around Kinosaki for a few glorious nights. And after my thighs and calves were sufficiently relaxed, I settled into one of Japan’s best ryokans, Nishimuraya Honkan. There in my spacious tatami mat room, I dug into edifying plates of cold, briny sashimi, simmered sesame tofu, and crab marinated in warm sake, while outside in the lush bamboo forests and the enveloping Tajima mountains, the free refills began to fall yet again.

december 2018 / tr av el andleisure asia .com

Tohoku Region

Nagano Yamanashi

Hyogo

Tokyo Kanagawa

downhill japan

Head beyond Hokkaido for a more serene, decidedly Japanese ski trip. And save some time to hop off the slopes for snowshoeing, hiking and lots of soaking. Getting There

There are daily nonstop flights to Tokyo, Osaka, Fukuoka, Nagoya and Sapporo from Bangkok, Hong Kong, Singapore and Taipei on multiple airlines. Driving in Japan’s ski areas is difficult; you'll need a Japanese-translated driver’s license and the ability to control a car on steep roads in deep snow. It’s hard to beat the JR Rail Pass (japanrailpass.net; seven-day pass US$258 when bought in Japan until March 2019) for convenience. Hotels

You might consider selecting your destinations based on dream accommodations. Below are just a few of the newest and best mountainview resorts. Nagano Prefecture Tobira Onsen Myojinkan, a historic 1931 property, is a 44-room Relais & Châteaux ryokan with onsen over Yatsugatake Chushin Kogen Quasi-National Park. relais chateaux.com; from US$450. Tohoku Region Ginzan Onsen Fujiya is an ultra-contemporary ryokan designed by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma with soaring timber slats and meditative onsen. fujiyaginzan.com; from US$1,000.

Kanagawa Prefecture Kai Sengokuhara, which opened in Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park in July, has 16 rooms with cypress tubs. hoshinoresorts.com; from US$260. Yamanashi Prefecture Fufu Kawaguchiko, another newcomer, has 32 rooms on Lake Kawaguchi's shore, close to Yamanashi’s vineyards, ice caves and lava tubes. fufukawaguchiko.jp; from US$750. Shizuoka Prefecture Kai Ito opens this month after renovations upgraded the 30 ryokan rooms and mountain-fed onsen. hoshino resorts.com; from US$260. Hyogo Prefecture Nishimuraya Honkan, arguably one of Japan’s best ryokan, offers spacious tatami-mat rooms and private onsen overlooking the swaying bamboo forests and thickly forested Tajima mountains. nishimuraya.ne. jp; from US$600. Tours

Upmarket agents Remote Lands emphasize lesserknown spots in Japan like in Tohoku and Hyogo and can create a bespoke trip based on your ski level, cultural interests and other factors. remotelands.com. — A.H.G.

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Beachfront Swimming Pool at Centara Villas Samui.

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Even before its first skyscrapers reached into the vast Midwestern sky, this vital metropolis was famous for its warmth and openness, for growing, striving, collaborating, and embracing the new. Recent headlines donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t tell the whole story of this rich patchwork of riverfront and sidewalk, ballpark and boulevard, revolutionary architecture and progressive cuisine. So to understand the city as it is today, we turned to some of its most celebrated citizens. Complex, abundant, misunderstood, ever-changing...

This Is

photogr aphed by

Lucy Hewett

The Marina City towers, as seen from the Riverwalk, a pedestrian pathway along the Chicago River.

100â&#x20AC;&#x201E;

december 2018 / tr av el andleisure asia .com

Clockwise from top left: Millennium Monument, in the Wrigley Square section of Chicago’s Millennium Park; two mole dishes—pork

chop and cauliflower—at Mi Tocaya Antojería, a Mexican restaurant in Logan Square; Stony Island Arts Bank, a gallery and archive founded by artist Theaster Gates on the South Side; the bar at Bellemore, a restaurant in the West Loop.

A line for one of the many restaurants in Fulton Market.

c i t y o f a t h o usa n d ta l e s

For novelist Aleksandar Hemon, who emigrated to Chicago from the former Yugoslavia, the triumphs and travails of his adopted home make it ripe for storytelling.

I Neighborhood Guide

Fulton Market

Chicago’s former meatpacking district has seen a boom in development over the past few years, from restaurants by some of the city’s top chefs to headquarters for McDonald’s and Google. New hotels from the Hoxton and Nobu brands are due to arrive next year. Soho House The opening of this private club in a historic warehouse in 2014 played a crucial role in Fulton Market’s transformation. Its 40 handsome guest rooms are open to nonmembers; hotel guests have access to facilities including three restaurants, an extensive gym (complete with boxing ring), and an 18-meter rooftop pool. sohohouse chicago.com; doubles from US$300. Aba Chef C. J. Jacobson’s Mediterranean restaurant has a 370-square-meter rooftop terrace with views of the city. It’s a meat lover’s paradise, with dishes like roasted bone marrow and slowbraised leg of lamb wrapped in eggplant. abarestaurantchicago. com; mains US$31–$50.

The Publican This homage to Colonial American beer halls by chef Paul Kahan has large communal tables that seat nearly 30 people each. The kitchen’s specialty is aged ham and other pork dishes. thepublicanrestaurant. com; mains US$18–$39. The Aviary Arguably the most popular cocktail lounge in the city, the Aviary serves inventive drinks crafted with custommade ice that look like works of art. The Office, an intimate, speakeasystyle spot downstairs, focuses on vintage spirits. theaviary.com. BLVD With its circular booths and chandeliers, this restaurant evokes Hollywood’s Golden Age. The appropriately named cocktails include the High Society and the Stranger in Paradise. blvdchicago. com; mains US$12–$39.

landed in Chicago on March 14, 1992. I was a young Bosnian journalist who’d been invited by a U.S. government agency to behold the wonders of America. After visiting Washington, D.C., New Orleans, Boston, Los Angeles and New York City on the official part of the trip, I came to Chicago to see a friend. The day of my arrival was sunny, and on my way from the airport I saw an impressive downtown skyline against the blue sky. It was beautiful and distant, like the Emerald City. But then we entered the unglamorous grid of streets to get to Ukrainian Village, where my friend lived. The following day, against the advice of my friend, who claimed that gangs operated nearby, I took a walk down Chicago Avenue. I found no gangs, but neither did I find the emeraldish skyline. Instead, I beheld lackluster storefronts, cracked sidewalks with no foot traffic, a total absence of trees or anything green, and a silent Ukrainian church against the soul-crushing gray I would learn is peculiar to Chicago in winter. I had been having doubts about returning to Bosnia, where the war was on, and even before arriving in Chicago I’d entertained the thought that I might stay. But then I wondered, “How will I live here?” I’ve now lived in Chicago for 26 years. Ukrainian Village has become one of the city’s most expensive neighborhoods. The city is different, as am I, but then again not that much. The beauty and the grittiness still coexist and are, indeed, inseparable. Chicago is a place of spectacle and edginess, of complexity and conflict. It’s a civic space that is constantly, and passionately, working to keep itself together. Its glorious architecture has a different meaning in a city that is one of the most segregated in America. The safety of its largest public spaces—Millennium Park, the lakefront—is ensured by a police force that has been in the news lately for all the wrong reasons. Between 2012 and 2015 the city paid US$260 million in settlements for police misconduct—money that could’ve been spent on making Chicago better. Nothing generates love like bearing witness to the struggles of your loved ones. I’ve come to believe that the love Chicagoans feel for their town comes from watching it fail and succeed, often simultaneously. In Chicago, the failures of America are as visible as its successes. There is no monument here to the triumph of American civilization that is not also a monument to the barbarism of American capitalism. Those of us who’ve lived here long enough know why it is the Great American City, just as we know it can be better than it is. As Nelson Algren suggested in his 1951 book, Chicago: City on the Make, this

Anish Kapoor’s Cloud Gate sculpture, in Millennium Park.

my chicago

Ikram Goldman

P ort ra i t: J osh G ol dm a n / C ourt esy of Ik ra m G ol d m an

Boutique owner, Ikram ikram.com

incompleteness allows for a steady supply of promise and excitement. Chicago’s conflicted striving might not be ideal for marketing, but it’s great for changers and makers, whether they be workers or writers, crooks or geniuses, politicians or activists. Chicago is never boring, because it’s gridded with past and present narratives, most of which are unresolved. That’s why my favorite places in the city are not only spectacular but conducive to storytelling. I enjoy showing visitors Millennium Park, and passing along the rumor that Anish Kapoor hates how Chicagoans have given his gorgeous sculpture Cloud Gate the nickname “The Bean.” Taking friends on a bike ride along the Lakefront Trail calls up the story of Daniel Burnham, who designed this stretch of parkland in 1909. But nothing beats sharing this city with my little daughters, who are old enough to imagine both its history and its future. I show them the former Essanay Studios—now part of St. Augustine College—where Charlie Chaplin shot one of his early movies. I tell them about the Green

Mill, one of the great jazz bars and a hub for gangsters, including Al Capone. My daughters already know a lot about Edgewater, the neighborhood where they’ve spent most of their lives—how it has been welcoming to refugees and immigrants, including their father, and how more than 70 languages are spoken there. They know that the Back of the Yards Coffeehouse is the best in town. They know who Michael Jordan is, and that their mother’s grandparents used to have Duke Ellington and Langston Hughes over for tea, and that the struggle against racism is at the heart of the city’s history. My daughters can see that they live in an exciting, inspiring place, and that no good story is ever really finished. They’ve learned that what makes a city great is the thickness and range of human experience it contains. Few cities in this country tell better stories than Chicago, and even fewer are better loved. Aleksandar Hemon’s novels The Making of Zombie Wars and The Lazarus Project are set in Chicago.

After a full day of work, I’ll treat myself to dinner at Avec (avecrestaurant. com; mains US$14–$30), an iconic West Loop restaurant with affordable, farm-to-table cuisine and a stellar wine list. Or I’ll go for delicious Mexican food at 5 Rabanitos (5rabanitos dotcom.wordpress.com; mains US$15–$17), a casual BYOB restaurant in Pilsen. I’m a shopgirl, so I usually work on the weekends, but if I have a day off, I’ll go to the Stony Island Arts Bank (rebuild-foundation.org) on the South Side. The gallery and archival library is the brainchild of artist Theaster Gates, who purchased the building for US$1 and renovated it into an incredible arts compound. Places like that remind me how accessible and creative this city is.

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A New Light on the South Side

Martin Nesbitt, chair of the Obama Foundation, explains why Chicago’s largest and most vibrant neighborhood is the ideal location for the Obama Presidential Center—and how the library and museum may bring about a positive transformation for this resilient community.

Jeff Tweedy

Musician, Wilco

Ash’s Magic Shop (4955 Western Ave., 1-773/271-4030) is tiny and stuffed with merchandise that probably hasn’t changed much in 30 years. The owner, Ashod Baboorian, or Mr. Ash, has spent his whole life trying to sell kids magic tricks in their original packaging from the 1960s, 70s and 80s. It’s the kind of store where you’re going to find a lot of free-roaming cats. Midwest Buy & Sell (midwestbuynsell.com) is a guitar pawnshop that’s been around for almost 30 years. I think it’s a real asset to the community to have a place where musicians who don’t have a lot of money are able to get great gear for reasonable prices. If you stick around long enough, the guy who runs it, Wayne Sefton, will talk himself down to a price that you can deal with. 104

The main gate at the University of Chicago, in Hyde Park.

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backyard in a surprisingly quaint neighborhood called Marynook. The South Side has a rich cultural history. It was the site of the epochal 1893 World’s Fair. It’s where modern gospel music was invented. And the cuisine—well, I’ll just give you two words: mild sauce. I could try to describe the velvety mixture of hot sauce, ketchup and barbecue sauce that was created on the South Side and makes everything taste better. But I’ll just go the words of Chicago comedian Hannibal Buress, who once told Chicago magazine, “If serenity had a flavor, it would taste like mild sauce.” Today, the South Side is home to cultural attractions like the DuSable Museum of African American History

(dusablemuseum.org), named in honor of the black trader who is considered the founder of Chicago;

P ort ra i t: Sa mm y Tw e e dy/ C ourt esy of Je f f T we e dy

my chicago

or me, the South Side is the true heart of Chicago. Its people, culture and food all have soul to them, and there is a sense of warmth, grit and humor everywhere you go. I moved to the South Side more than 30 years ago to pursue an MBA at the University of Chicago. A few months after I arrived, I met Anita Blanchard, then a medical student, at an event at Frank Lloyd Wright’s Robie House. Anita grew up on the South Side, and she introduced me to everything it has to offer. We were married three years later at Rockefeller Chapel, just around the corner from where we met. Each of our five children was born on the South Side at the Chicago Lying-In Hospital, and my wife and I have spent countless Sunday afternoons watching them play in my in-laws’

Frank Lloyd Wright’s Robie House, in Hyde Park.

Free Rein, the restaurant at the St. Jane hotel.

WHAT’S NEW

the Stony Island Arts Bank (rebuildfoundation.org), an abandoned bank that Chicago artist Theaster Gates turned into an arts center; and Buddy Guy’s Legends (buddyguy.com), one of the hottest blues spots in the country. It is also where Michelle Obama was born and raised, where Barack Obama got his start in community organizing, and where the couple started their family. Naturally, they chose to put the Obama Presidential Center on the South Side. The center will be more than a presidential library. It will include a museum celebrating Obama’s historic presidency, a branch of the Chicago Public Library, and recreation areas and open spaces. The center is going to make the South Side a global destination for those interested in making their world better, because inspiring people to change the world is at the heart of the Obama Foundation’s mission. While the gems of the South Side are well known by those of us who live here, the area remains undiscovered by many. The Obama Presidential Center will help us showcase the neighborhood we love to the world—mild sauce and all. Construction begins on the Obama Presidential Center (obama.org) in 2019; it is expected to open in 2021.

Four One-of-a-Kind Places to Stay

Chicago has always had a robust—and affordable—hotel scene. These stylish new players are set to make the city’s boutique offerings even stronger. 1. Hotel Julian On-trend touches like hanging Egg chairs and pendant fixtures add a youthful edge to this 102-year-old high-rise on Michigan Avenue. But the biggest draw is the dead-on views of Millennium Park in a number of the 218 guest rooms. hoteljulianchicago. com; doubles from US$220. 2. Sophy Hyde Park This artsy bolt-hole is the first luxury hotel in Hyde Park, one of the city’s foremost cultural hubs—and the future home of the Obama Presidential Center. The 98 guest rooms draw upon the vibrant energy of the neighborhood, with abstract paintings by Chicago artist Joey Korom and record players with a handpicked selection of vinyl. sophyhotel.com; doubles from US$289.

3. St. Jane Housed inside the beloved Carbide & Carbon building, this chic newcomer harks back to the dawn of the skyscraper, with an original Art Deco façade and interior details like crystal chandeliers and herringbone tile floors. At the streetlevel restaurant, Free Rein, chef Aaron Lirette whips up American brasserie favorites like roast chicken with garlic jus. stjanehotel.com; doubles from US$269. A guest room at the Sophy Hyde Park.

4. Hotel EMC2 The digerati will embrace the various tech-centric amenities (robot butlers, in-room Amazon Alexas) at this art- and sciencethemed hotel, whose lobby contains a twometer zoetrope machine. But the vibe is never gimmicky, thanks to designforward interiors outfitted with dark parquet floors, tufted leather furniture and copper accents. hotelemc2.com; doubles from US$308.

The lobby of the Hotel Zachary.

A River runs through it

Neighborhood Guide

Wrigleyville

The streets surrounding Wrigley Field are finally shedding their reputation as a fratty hangout for Cubs fans. Alongside the sports bars, there are now top-tier accommodations and superb restaurants. Here, our pick of the best. Hotel Zachary Since it opened in March across the street from Wrigley Field (it’s named after Zachary Taylor Davis, the ballpark’s architect), the hotel has been further raising Wrigleyville’s profile. Gallagher Way, the building the hotel is in, has 12 restaurants, such as a barbecue joint, a bakery and a craft-beer bar. hotelzachary.com; doubles from US$209.

Wheelhouse Hotel Another newcomer to Wrigleyville, this boutique hotel has only 21 rooms—each filled with local art and design motifs that nod to the game for which the neighborhood is known. wheelhousehotel.com; doubles from US$150. dutch & doc’s A former McDonald’s is now a stylish restaurant serving steaks and Wrigley Field, heart of the now fashionable neighborhood.

upscale versions of American classics like corn fritters and patty melts—all within a stone’s throw of Wrigley Field. dutchanddocs. com; mains US$15–$60. Uncommon Ground This model of sustainability-minded dining grows much of the produce used in its kitchen and brews its own organic, gluten-free beer. uncommonground. com; mains US$13–$25. CafÉ Tola A Latin-inspired hole-inthe-wall that makes inventive empanadas with a range of fillings, from chicken tinga to guava and queso fresco. cafetola.com; empanadas US$4.25.

Since its completion in 2016, the Riverwalk—a 2-kilometer-long pedestrian path along the Chicago River—has become one of the city’s most popular attractions. Architect Carol Ross Barney, whose namesake firm headed the project, reflects on the river’s significance— and how the project is inspiring further changes. — As told to Peter Terzian

My Chicago

Nick Cave

Artist

P ort ra i t: James P ri n z / C ourt esy of Ni c k Cav e

The Chicago River offers a range of activities, from architectural tours to kayaking.

hicago thinks of itself as a city on a lake, but actually it’s a city on a river. The river is why Chicago is here: It was a quick connection from the Mississippi River Valley to the Great Lakes. The Chicago River was an industrial river—it served the stockyards—but in time it became an open sewer. As the city shifted away from its industrial past, it left behind polluted land and waterways, and infrastructure that wasn’t useful anymore. Today, slowly but surely, the Chicago River is being cleaned up. Architects and planners dreamed about the Riverwalk (chicagoriverwalk. us) for generations. There’s a drawing of what it might look like in famed urban designer Daniel Burnham’s plan of Chicago from 1909. Just before 2000, city officials realized that they had to renovate Wacker Drive, the two-level road that runs along the river on the South Side, and there was enough money left over from that project to start thinking about the river. Ross Barney Architects developed the design of the Riverwalk over a period of 15 years with a broad team of collaborators.

Mirrored canopies over the Riverwalk.

What people refer to as the Riverwalk covers eight blocks downtown. It’s a bit like the High Line in New York City, an industrial space that was left over—it was originally the docks that served the Loop. There are playgrounds and public artworks and restaurants and cafés along the Riverwalk, but it’s more park than people think. In fact, one of the nicest things about it is that it has really encouraged riverside development. I’ve worked on some projects that are pretty high-profile and pretty emotional, like the replacement of Oklahoma City’s Murrah Federal Building. But this one has been kind of astonishing. It’s so popular that it has exceeded people’s expectations. It’s become a symbol of the city. If I see an ad about Chicago on TV, nine out of 10 times it shows the Riverwalk. In the wake of the success of the Riverwalk, the city’s planning council offers grants to other communities that want to plan riverfront environments. It’s an equal-opportunity river. It goes through depressed and affluent neighborhoods. This is a chance to extend green space in a more just way.

As an artist, I’m grateful for the space and isolation that living in Chicago allows. Unlike New York City, which is so noisy, Chicago is the kind of place where you can retreat and reappear at will. If I need to hole up in my studio and get work done, I can. By the same token, I can meet friends at Soho House Chicago (sohohouse chicago.com), go for a run along the lake, or drive an hour outside the city and do some antiquing at Kane County Flea Market (kanecountyflea market.com) in St. Charles. When I need a quick meal, I go to Wishbone (wishbone chicago.com; mains US$13–$16), which has great, inexpensive Southern food. I end up there two or three times a week.

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107

H ow C h i c ag o L e a r n e d t o E at

Fresh rock shrimp aguachile with ‘broc-a-mole’ and pupusa at Girl & The Goat.

The first woman to win Top Chef, Stephanie Izard shook up the Chicago dining scene in 2010 with the noseto-tail menu at her debut restaurant, Girl & the Goat. Little Goat’s updated diner classics and Duck Duck Goat’s celebration of Chinese-American cooking followed. Here, Izard talks about Chicago’s changing tastes—and shares tips for finding the best international fare.

moved here almost 20 years ago, and at the time eating was divvied up into two categories. There was super-fine dining— Charlie Trotter’s, Rick Bayless’s Frontera Grill (fronteragrill.com; mains US$20–$36), Paul Kahan’s Blackbird (blackbirdrestaurant. com; mains US$33–$42)—and then there were the Chicago staples: hot dogs and Italian beef sandwiches and deep-dish pizzas. It’s a stereotype, but it was true then. Charlie Trotter first got the rest of the world to recognize Chicago for fine dining. Since then, Grant Achatz has carried that torch, and world-renowned places like his Alinea (alinearestaurant.com; tasting menus from US$190) have made it so that people visit Chicago

Stephanie Izard’s Duck Duck Goat, in Fulton Market.

108

just to eat. Restaurants are now a huge part of the city’s culture. When we were getting ready to open Girl & the Goat (girlandthe goat.com; mains US$13–$26), some were nervous that diners wouldn’t want duck tongues and pig faces. I thought, Well, they taste good, so why not? Now that diners are more adventurous, chefs put interesting things on menus. Chicagoans cringe when outsiders think this city is only deep-dish and hot dogs. One of the coolest things about Chicago is the international food. This city has a long history of immigration. Little Village is one of the best areas for tacos; my favorite spot there is Taqueria El Milagro (el-milagro.com; mains under US$10). Both the steak and lengua tacos are amazing. Before opening Duck Duck Goat (duckduckgoat chicago.com; mains US$13–$22), I spent a lot of time in Chinatown, where Sze Chuan Cuisine (szechuan cuisinechicago.com; mains US$6– $30) is awesome—especially the mapo tofu. All the great Indian

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restaurants are on Devon Avenue. Ghareeb Nawaz Restaurant (ghareeb nawazonline.com; mains US$4–$7) has Pakistani-Indian food that always hits the spot. I love the chilichicken biryani. I’m inspired by all the different parathas. It used to be that when you went to one of those restaurants, the patrons would just be from that background. When I was a line cook, we’d go to this great Korean place, San Soo Gab San (ssgsbbq. com; mains US$10–$35), and we would have to bring someone who could communicate with the servers. Now it’s packed with people from all over. What sets Chicago apart is its small-city charm, which carries over into our dining. Yes, there’s good food in New York and San Francisco, too, but when you look at the hospitality, Chicago beats everyone. It’s a city full of friendly people, and from the moment you walk into a restaurant, there’s a genuine warmth that you don’t always see in other places. >>

to p: L e i l a Regi st e r

— As told to Lila harron Battis

What’s New

Three Can’t-Miss Restaurants

The city’s vibrant dining culture gets a new injection of talent with debuts from young-gun chefs—as well as new projects from Chicago legends. Mi Tocaya Antojería.

Anna Shapiro

Artistic Director, S t e pp e n w o l f T h e at r e C o m pa n y ste p p e n wo l f. o r g

My ideal day in Chicago would start at Svea (5236 N. Clark St., 1-773/2757738; mains US$6–$13) a tiny, cash-only Swedish place in Andersonville. It has the world’s best Swedish pancakes and a spinach omelette called the Popeye. I’d stop for a La Colombe (lacolombe. com) coffee on the corner, get on the train, and go to Wrigley Field (mlb.com). I could sit at Wrigley all day: doubleheader, never move, happy as a clam. I’d go to dinner at Bellemore (bellemorechicago.com; mains US$14–$47, tasting menu US$95)—it’s exquisite. They have this thing called oyster pie, which is topped with caviar. I’d have that with some great wine. Then— it’s impossible for me not to say this—a play at Steppenwolf Theatre, followed by a second drink at the house’s Front Bar (front-bar.com). 110

1. Mi Tocaya Antojería Chicago native Diana Dávila earned her culinary chops both in the kitchen and in the field: she grew up helping at her family’s taqueria and studied at Susana Trilling’s famed Oaxaca cooking school. The menu at her colorful Logan Square hangout— which earned her a Best New Chef nod from Food & Wine this year—turns a

Neighborhood Guide

2. Pacific Standard Time Chef Erling Wu-Bower cut his teeth under the legendary Paul Kahan at Chicago talent incubators the Publican and Nico Osteria. Now he’s struck out on his own as head chef and co-owner of a restaurant with business partner Joshua Tilden. PST’s West Coast– inspired menu skips the clichés of California cuisine in favor of

hearth-fired pitas with creative toppings, standout vegetable dishes, and plenty of seafood. pstchicago.com; mains US$15–$35. 3. Proxi The team behind Sepia— one of the city’s many Michelin-starred institutions—decided to let down its hair with a new project next door. Sepia’s Andrew Zimmerman does double duty as Proxi’s executive chef, creating a lively menu of globally inspired small plates. Fire is the uniting force: pumpkin is smoked for a savory paratha, and mussels are coal-roasted and drowned in ’nduja butter. proxichicago.com; mains US$12–$45.

Logan Square

Interwoven with boulevards, parks and community gardens, this district in northwestern Chicago has been rapidly transformed with the arrival of stellar restaurants and appealing shops. Longman & Eagle

This Michelin-starred gastropub offers creative takes on American recipes, more than 400 types of whiskey, and, in the tradition of classic inns, six spare but stylish guest rooms on the second floor. longmanandeagle.com; doubles from US$95; mains US$14–$27.

Shop 1021

This beguiling boutique carries jewelry, baby gifts, greeting cards, cookbooks, journals, stationery and more. The store also hosts workshops on candle making, calligraphy, tea mixology and other crafts. shop1021.com.

Fat Rice

Chef Abraham Conlon won a James Beard Award this year for the inventive ChinesePortuguese dishes he serves at this popular restaurant. Try the arroz gordo, a feast of curried chicken, barbecued pork, linguica, wood-roasted beef, and prawns in chili sauce. eatfatrice.com; mains US$13–$48.

Tusk

Owner Mary Eleanor Wallace augments her selection of vintage and contemporary clothing with one-of-a-kind objects by local artisans. tuskchicago.com.

Pretty Cool Ice Cream

A tribute to the beloved concoctions from ice cream trucks, this whimsically designed shop makes frozen treats in a variety of forms, from chocolate-dipped custard to vegan “plant pops,” in flavors like Thai tea and peanutbutter potato chip. prettycoolicecream.com.

Pretty Cool Ice Cream.

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— Additional reporting by John Scarpinato, Siobhan Reid, Hannah Walhout and Lila Harron Battis.

P ort ra i t: Fr a n k Ishm a n / C ou rt esy o f A n n a D. S ha p ir o

my chicago

fresh eye to the many iterations of Mexican cuisine, with dishes like mole amarillo topped with bright fiddlehead ferns and the Sunday dinner special of fried chicken and churros. mitocaya.com; mains US$10–$26.

Noku Maldives

Noku Kyoto

Noku Maldives

Noku Osaka

At home in Noku Attentive service. Friendly faces. Comfortable experiences. Quiet spaces.

www.nokuhotels.com | Enquiries@nokuhotels.com

The Art

of the City

No longer content to coast on the glories of its Renaissance past, Florence is recasting itself as a 21st-century global hub. David Amsden looks beyond the tourist trail and finds a city eager to recapture its reputation as a hotbed of creativity. Photogr aphed by federico ciamei

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Bartolozzi e Maioli, a wood-carving atelier in the Oltrarno neighborhood founded in 1938. Opposite: A salad of Belgian endive, sorbet and samphire sauce at GurdulĂš, a recent addition to the Oltrarno dining scene.

I did not expect to fall for Florence while eating a Japanese dumpling. Like most first-time visitors to the storied Italian city, I’d arrived with the itchy fervor of a museum-goer, believing transcendence would be delivered by seeing in person all the Renaissance glory I’d encountered in photographs. Michelangelo’s David. Brunelleschi’s Duomo. Botticelli’s Primavera. The Ponte Vecchio and Palazzo Pitti. I spent my first 48 hours in a manic whirl, pinballing through the terra-cotta maze in the hot May sun, working through the requisite to-do list with surgical efficiency. Yet in this blister-inducing gorge on Medici-era splendor, I couldn’t shake the sense that I’d made the very mistake I’d vowed to avoid: seeing plenty but savoring little, skimming the city’s surface at the expense of understanding its soul. Then, on my third evening, came the dumpling. I was in Sant’Ambrogio, a sleepy neighborhood on the fringes of the tourist-clogged center, dining at the bar of a tiny restaurant called

Ciblèo. Opened in March last year, it is an enthralling spot with only 16 seats that bills itself as “Tuscan Oriental.” There is no menu; instead, diners sit for a languid, omakase-style feast of tapas that mixes Japanese, Chinese, Korean and Italian flavors with elegant simplicity. Edamame and wild field peas arrived drizzled in spicy olive oil; a fatty sliver of soppressata shared a plate with a wasabi-infused potato; glasses of local wine gave way to sips of sake. The dumpling, perfectly steamed, its delicate skin

from far left:

Baccio Bandinelli’s 16th-century copy of a Hellenistic statue of Laocoön and his sons in the Uffizi Gallery; walking on the Pescaia di Santa Rosa, a dam that juts into the Arno River on the Oltrarno banks; a guest room at the Four Seasons Hotel Firenze, housed in a 15th-century former palace.

pinched around a stuffing of Casentino pork, arrived in the middle of my meal. It was beyond delicious, a bite-size reminder that Florence is far more than a dazzling reliquary. It’s a city opening itself to the modern world in surprising ways. “It’s quite special, is it not?” said Fabio Picchi, Ciblèo’s owner, ostensibly referring to the dumpling, though I would prefer to think he understood that I was having a revelatory moment about his hometown. A wizardly charmer with a white beard, Picchi has long been regarded as the high priest of Florentine cooking. His first restaurants—the intimately upscale Cibrèo Ristorante and its more informal sibling, Cibrèo Trattoria—opened way back in 1979 and remain some of the best places to sample regional delicacies and relish the ebullient energy that percolates outside the city’s more trodden precincts. Later came Caffè Cibrèo, where

espresso-and-pastry mornings blur into Chianti-and-salumi evenings, and Teatro del Sale, a supper club where buffet dinners are followed by musical performances. Along with Ciblèo, they are all clustered around a lively intersection. Picchi presides over his empire with panache— gliding between restaurants, scouring the nearby market for ingredients, greeting old friends and making newcomers feel like long-lost regulars. What led Florence’s most famous chef, a revered gatekeeper of local tradition, to take the curious leap of opening a restaurant serving Asianinfluenced food? Picchi shrugged. “I had a dream after visiting Japan,” he explained in his soothing baritone. “That was forty years ago, so it was one of those perhaps-mad dreams that refused to die.” He grew contemplative. “I am a Florentine,” he said. “This is a place built on realizing wild fantasies, on innovation and inspiration. What you see in the museums is connected to what you see in the streets today. You miss the point if you think the Renaissance exists only in the past.”

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left: Mortegan, a leather-goods atelier in Oltrarno. opposite from left: The food halls at the Mercato Centrale; a street artist reproduces Guido Reni’s Saint Cecilia in chalk.

Florence is more

popular than ever, with some 16 million people visiting annually. Even so, you hear a lot of talk from locals about how it’s misunderstood, even undiscovered. The sheer volume of crowds can make it easy to forget that the city is a living, breathing home to more than 380,000 residents. Before my meal at Ciblèo, I met up with Dario Nardella, the youthful, quick-witted 42-year-old who has been mayor since 2015. Like just about everyone you meet in Florence, Nardella is worried that the city’s heritage and culture—the centuries-old pursuit of those “wild fantasies” that once made the place a hub of civilization—are at risk of being diminished by mass tourism. “We are one of the smallest global cities in the world, and very fragile,” he told me in his office, a grand room painted with Renaissance-era murals in the Palazzo Vecchio, the fortress-like town hall. Just outside the door visitors roamed the palace with antlike intensity, marveling at its vaulted ceilings and array of Medici artifacts. “We don’t need more tourists in the city, but more quality tourism. We want people to come here and have a profound experience, not just take photos.” Drive-by sightseeing is, however, the way most people approach Florence. As a cautionary tale of what can happen when culture tips into commodity, Nardella mentioned Venice, where most signs of local life have been eclipsed by the 30 million tourists who pour in each year. “It is quite sad—a real, fantastic place is now a plastic city,” he said. “We are still a real city, but we risk having the same problems if we’re not careful.” With that in mind, Nardella has devoted much of his energy while in office to finding inventive ways for Florence to flourish and encouraging visitors to stay longer. A higher tax on tour buses has led to an 8 percent decrease in cruise-ship passengers who swarm the town on day trips from Venice and Livorno. And a number of initiatives are now in place to retain residents in the city center.

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“Because without them,” he said, “we are just a museum.” In 2016, he passed a controversial bill requiring that 70 percent of the produce served in the unesco-protected center must be of local origin. Some saw it as a veiled anti-immigrant measure—a means of curbing the spread of kebab shops run by the city’s small Arab population. McDonald’s, meanwhile, saw it as an attack; the law put a stop to an outpost that was planned to open in front of the Duomo, leading the fast-food behemoth to sue the city for €18 million in damages. “Look, I love McDonald’s!” Nardella told me with a chuckle. “But food is culture, and we have to protect our traditions. Do we really need a McDonald’s across from Brunelleschi’s masterpiece?” He paused for a moment. “My vision is not a closed, conservative one,” he said, noting a variety of efforts the city has taken to expand and elevate its identity. A recent exhibit of a massive Jeff Koons sculpture in the plaza outside his office marked the first time in nearly 500 years that an original work of such scale had been shown alongside sculptures by Michelangelo and

‘This is a place built on realizing wild fantasies,’ said Fabio Picchi, the city’s most famous chef, ‘on innovation and inspiration’ Donatello. Meanwhile, a new partnership with Amazon has helped local artisans stay in business by selling their crafts through the online shopping giant. “We now live in a global world—I embrace that,” Nardella said. “But we must find ways to adapt that keep the spirit of the city.” This mentality has led to an ambitious revamping of Florence’s cultural programming. The new opera house, for instance, is an unapologetically modern, Cubistinspired structure that stands out with giddy defiance in a city famous for looking much the way it did centuries ago. The Uffizi Gallery, Italy’s most popular museum, has been in the midst of an overhaul since 2015, when Eike Schmidt took on the role of director. A studious German, he is the first non-Italian to hold the post, and has been working to streamline the ticketing process, shorten the notoriously chaotic lines, and improve the flow through the halls so visitors can better appreciate the exquisite Botticellis and Raphaels for which the museum is famous. This remains a herculean task, as I discovered when I attempted to visit. Overwhelmed by the mosh pit outside, I opted to pass.

But the Uffizi, for all its worldclass holdings, is hardly the whole of the city’s creative offerings. Palazzo Strozzi, Florence’s contemporary art foundation, opened nearby in 2006. Many regard its 2016 retrospective on Ai Weiwei, the second-mostattended exhibition in the city’s history, as the moment Florence reestablished itself as a prominent force in the global art community. When I visited, a major survey of the video artist Bill Viola was all the more provoking for being set in a palace built in 1538. Wandering through the magnificent chambers was a transporting delight. The space was full but hardly frenzied; I didn’t have to dodge a single selfie stick. That fact alone was worth the cost of admission. “You come to Florence and you need to see the Uffizi and the David—it’s normal,” said Arturo Galansino, Palazzo Strozzi’s director, when I met him in his book-lined office on the museum’s top floor. “What we offer is an alternative to that model. Because we’re constantly changing we demand that you return over and over.” A casually debonair gentleman—crisp suit, Wayfarer frames—Galansino hopes that guests will appreciate Palazzo Strozzi not as a progressive outlier, but as a nuanced way for locals and visitors alike to tap into the city’s heritage. “The Ai Weiwei show, if you think about it, is really an extension of the city’s history,” he told me. “Florence was the Empire State Building of the 15th century— the high point of modernity.”

Having spent my first

two days attempting to mainline all things Florence, I took a different approach the rest of the week: settling in, ambling about, letting conversations with locals serve as my primary guide. A headstrong people understandably proud of their roots, Florentines are by no means averse to making sure you visit the city’s mainstays, like the Mercato Centrale, a bustling market

that’s been in operation since 1874. But even here a compelling dialogue between past and present has begun to play out. While the ground floor remains a time warp of fish-, cheese-, and produce mongers, in 2014 a mezzanine was added with stalls serving everything from esoteric beer to truffle pasta. Still, I found that Florentines reserved their greatest enthusiasm for newly opened places that don’t feel beholden to the past, like La Ménagère, a restaurant in the center that many locals mentioned as the sort of establishment that was unimaginable until recently. In an airy, sophisticated space of exposed plaster walls and dangling ferns, a multitude of worlds collide: fine dining in the back, a casual bistro in front, a craft cocktail lounge underground—not to mention a florist and a shop selling home goods. I arrived expecting a quick lunch. But after an octopus salad and spaghetti with anchovies, both sublime, I found myself seduced into sticking around for a glass of wine, then an espresso. By the time I left, the sun was setting. My accommodations certainly helped me absorb the city in a more languorous manner. Florence has lagged behind its larger European counterparts in offering the sort of hotels that encourage extended stays, but this, too, is changing. I spent the first half of my week at the Four Seasons, which opened in 2008 in a former 15th-century palace. With its original frescoes, outdoor

RIGHT: Minjoo Heo, a

chef at the AsianItalian fusion restaurant Ciblèo. opposite: Folk dancing in the Piazza Santo Spirito, in Oltrarno.

pool, and large private garden, the hotel provided the singular experience of living, literally, like a prince. Then I switched to the Gallery Hotel Art, a sleek, whitewashed boutique establishment at the foot of the Ponte Vecchio where the lobby doubles as a showcase for modern art—a Warhol exhibition, when I visited. The hotel is one of a number of uniquely urbane properties operated by the Lungarno Collection, the hospitality arm of the Ferragamo empire. Another, the nearby Hotel Continentale, is a winking throwback to 1950s Italy. It offers one of the city’s best rooftop bars, which I visited several times to sip an aperitif while watching the sun dip behind the majestic skyline. “We’re in the midst of a new dolce vita,” said Edgardo Osorio, a Colombian-born designer who has helped revive the city’s standing in the fashion world with Aquazurra, his playful line of handcrafted shoes. The dapper 32-year-old was discussing his adopted hometown’s current renaissance while giving me a tour of his studio, an eclectic space above his shop. While most Italian fashion is now based in Milan, the country’s modern industry was born in Florence. Iconic brands like Gucci began in the city, which remains the center of its production. “I wanted to be connected to that lineage,” Osorio said. “Being close to the patternmakers and cutters brings in a human element that you just can’t get in New York or Paris.” I thought about this sentiment often while exploring Oltrarno. Located across the Arno opposite the city center, this is Florence’s “Left Bank,” a swath of labyrinthine streets where I got the distinct sense that the city’s residents are as keen on asserting themselves as their mayor. Poking my head into the minuscule storefront studios of the old-school leather craftspeople, cobblers and papermakers who have worked in the area for centuries often led to impromptu tutorials on their work and technique. Oltrarno is also the most compelling neighborhood for eating and drinking. The area around Piazza Santo Spirito, a small square that turns into a nightly gathering spot, has become a showcase for budding chefs challenging the city’s reputation for stagnant cuisine. The anchor of this new food scene is Il Santo Bevitore, where dishes like roasted pigeon with foie gras ice cream

are served in an unfussy, boisterous room; the restaurant recently added an adjacent wine bar, Il Santino. I ate one of my most memorable meals at Gurdulù, a modish, dimly lit spot on a quiet street. After a gin and tonic that arrived with a sprig of lavender suspended in a hand-cut ice cube, I ordered the tasting menu, leaving my meal to the whims of chef Gabriele Andreoni, whose obsession with unexpected ingredients shone in a cuttlefish salad with apricot bottarga and a succulent duck breast accented with kumquat and wasabi. Great cities impress in seconds but seduce slowly; Florence is no different. On my last day, I visited Numeroventi, a co-living space for artists that I would never have heard of had I spent only a day or two in town. Cofounded by Martino di Napoli Rampolla, a 28-year-old Italian, and Andrew Trotter, a peripatetic designer from England, it opened in 2016 in a converted palace built in 1510. The organization invites artists, writers, and designers for residencies lasting one to eight months. Once a week it opens to the public for studio visits, a throwback to the days when the elite popped in on the likes of Leonardo da Vinci; the completed works are displayed in monthly exhibitions. To help fund the

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enterprise, Numeroventi rents out a handful of impeccably designed apartments on Airbnb, making it arguably the choicest (and still secretive) place to stay for travelers eager to be immersed in the city’s latest scene. “I would like Florence to be what it was in the Renaissance instead of just making money off the past,” said Alessandro Modestino Ricciardelli, Numeroventi’s passionate, heavily tattooed project manager, when I met him for a tour of the space. The palace already had quite a history before its current incarnation. It was built for a governor, and a Michelangelo sculpture once stood on the pedestal in the courtyard; when the governor clashed with the Medicis, he was beheaded, and the sculpture was repossessed. Today the pedestal remains a hallowed spot where emerging artists show their work, the past literally spotlighting the future. “There are a lot of people here doing cool things, but they’re like little islands,” Ricciardelli said. “This is a place where we can come together.” Ricciardelli led me through the studios and shared kitchen, absurdly gorgeous spaces where ornate plasterwork and frescoes contrasted with Modernist furnishings. We walked down a hallway lined with precise drawings of sound waves; on the floor below them were abstract renderings of the same shapes carved from marble. Both were the work of Lorenzo Brinati, an Italian artist and former resident. The top floor still looked much the way it did during the decades when squatters occupied it: dingy, with peeling paint, yet enticing given what was happening there. “Basically, this is a kind of free-for-all gallery,” Rampolla said, explaining that artists were invited to use the rooms however they saw fit: painting on the walls, experimenting with mischievous installations. It was the opposite of a museum. “Making something new,” Rampolla said, “is always more interesting than just worshipping what is old.”

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Florence Italy

The New Florence

The city rewards a longer stay than most visitors budget. Once you’ve taken in the Renaissance masterworks, spend a few days exploring the overlooked corners and outer neighborhoods.

GETTING THERE AND AROUND

There are no direct flights from Southeast Asia to Florence, but multiple carriers offer connections from European hubs, including Paris and Zurich. Though taxi stands abound, one of the pleasures of Florence is that you can get just about everywhere on foot. LODGING

Staying at the Four Seasons Hotel Firenze (fourseasons.com; doubles from €875) was one of the highlights of my trip. Occupying a 15th-century palazzo, the hotel was a lavish, private oasis after a day spent exploring the city. The properties operated by the Lungarno Collection offer a more modern take on luxury. The coolly minimal Gallery Hotel Art (lungarnocollection.com; doubles from €300) is profusely decorated with contemporary sculpture and photography, while the Continentale (lungarnocollection. com; doubles from €325) channels mid-20th-century Italian design. eat & DRINK

After years of being regarded as behind the curve, Florence’s dining scene has evolved into one of the most compelling in Italy. At Ciblèo (cibleo.com; prix fixe €55), Fabio Picchi, the city’s undisputed culinary king, serves up an omakase-style mix of Italian, Japanese, Chinese and Korean tapas. La Ménagère (lamenagere. it; mains €15–€30) is a beautiful,

airy space with fine dining in the rear and a casual bistro up front, as well as a florist and a small shop that sells home goods. The Oltrarno neighborhood’s casually hip dining scene is anchored by Il Santo Bevitore (ilsantobevitore.com; mains €9–€26), where refined takes on Italian classics are served in a cozy space. An adjacent wine bar, Il Santino, offers small bites to a boisterous crowd. I particularly enjoyed the inventive menu at Gurdulù (gurdulu.com; mains €20–€38, tasting menus from €56), a stylish spot out of a Fellini film. For cocktails, there’s no better place than the rooftop bar of the Continentale, with its sublime views of the terra-cotta skyline. art & Culture

A trip to Florence isn’t complete without a visit to the Uffizi Gallery (uffizi.it) and a pilgrimage to see Michelangelo’s David at the Galleria dell’Accademia (accademia.org). Thankfully, the city has launched a new website, destinationflorence.com, to make the ticketing process less chaotic. If you feel overwhelmed by the crowds, head for the Palazzo Strozzi (palazzostrozzi.org), the city’s contemporary art foundation, or the Gucci Garden (gucci.com/ guccigarden), where a history of the brand sheds light on Florence’s role as the birthplace of modern Italian fashion. For a glimpse into the city’s new creative scene, check out Numeroventi (numeroventi.it), an artists’ residency in an old palazzo that opens its doors for monthly exhibitions. SHOPPING

Oltrarno has long been home to Florence’s craftspeople. Seek out Mortegan (mortegan.com), maker of exquisite leather goods, and Bartolozzi e Maioli (bartolozzie maioli.it), a wood-carving studio that has produced intricately detailed sculptures for the past 80 years. New boutiques have started cropping up in the area. My favorites were Campucc10 (campucc10.com), which showcases objects and prints by local artists, and Giulia Materia (giuliamateria.com), where the stock ranges from clothing to notebooks bound in vintage wallpaper. If you’re looking for high-end women’s shoes, visit Aquazzura (aquazzura.com). Rising star Edgardo Osorio conceives his collections in the studio above the store. — D.A.

3 9 SYE D A LWI ROAD, SIN G AP ORE 207630 + 65 6291 6677 www. h o te l va g ab on d s in g ap ore.com

place Macau

New hotels are bringing thousands of rooms and some of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best chefs to Macau, where thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a renewed spotlight on the lesser-considered yet vibrant arts and culture scene. By juliana loh

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p e t e r st u c k i n g s / g e tt y i m a g e s

Macau Tower, left, seen with Mandarin Oriental and MGM.

The former Portuguese colony is a city of paradoxes: crumbling old and shiny new; everything from architecture to food is a blend of East and West in good measure. Macau is constantly reinventing itself with new developments and a burgeoning arts scene that celebrates both its Portuguese legacy and Chinese heritage. The recent opening of the 55-kilometer bridge connecting it to Hong Kong and the mainland has helped grow Macau’s vibrant dining culture even further with the city’s being better connected. As big new resorts have brought exciting restaurants with them, and local restaurants continue to make their beloved traditional foods, it’s no wonder 2018 was Macau’s inaugural year as a unesco Creative City of Gastronomy, and next March Asia’s 50 Best Awards gala returns to Cotai—all of which make it prime time to plan a palate-whetting trip.

c l o c k w i s e f r o m t o p : m a n f r e d g o tts c h a l k / g e tt y i m a g e s ; c o u r t e s y o f Ta i pa V i l l a g e A r t S pa c e ; c o u r t e s y o f m a c a o s c i e n c e c e n t r e ; I a n T r o w e r / r o b e r th a r d i n g / g e tt y i m a g e s . m a p b y c h o t i k a S o p i ta r c h a s a k

See + Do

Guia Lighthouse in St. Lazaro

Yes, there's life beyond the blackjack table. We're betting the rich heritage and blossoming arts scene will offer plenty of distractions for the family. In the south, Coloane Island has a couple of nature trails for those wanting to do a spot of hiking. + Check out the latest Art Space (taipavillage macau.com) in Taipa Village for contemporary exhibitions. + Or get your fortune told at the unesco World Heritage site A-Ma Temple (São Lourenço, Barra) built in 1488. + Take a dive down the world’s tallest man-made bungee jumping site at the Macau Tower (macau tower.com.mo) then stroll over to the Macao

Science Centre (msc.org.mo) designed by architect I.M. Pei to watch the sunset over the Macau Peninsula. + If you’re a selfie fanatic, the Guia Lighthouse

(accessible by foot or cable car) is a wonderful quiet spot with a colonial vibe for ample photo opportunities. One just might think you were in Portugal.

unesco World Heritage Site A-Ma Temple.

Get learning at Macao Science Centre.

Art Space in Taipa Village.

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the pl ace

EAT + DRiNK

Macau gets you bang for your buck with dining options for everyone. From Michelin-starred fine dining to local holes-inthe-wall, there’s plenty to discover and devour.

The on-theme entrance to Golden Flower.

Haute

At the new La Famiglia (taipavillagemacau.com), Macanese cuisine ambassador Florita Alves cooks up complex, authentic flavors. + Pop into local eatery Riquexo (69 Av. de Sidonio Pais; 853/2856-5655) for home-style dishes. Order minchi—and say hello to centenarian cook Dame Aida de Jesus. + APOMEC (G/F 49B Av. De Sidonio Pais) down the street is a retirees club that serves up hearty set meals of Macanese dishes for only MOP100. + At Restaurante Litoral (restaurantelitoral-taipa.com) try the African chicken, and the city’s best tacho, a winter stew with roasted meats, Chinese sausages and cabbage among a long list of ingredients— Chef Florita each family has its own unique recipe.

Alves helms La Famiglia.

With the hotels full of top chefs, you’ll practically trip over stars. At the top end of the spectrum, the latest talks of the town are Michelin two-starred Mauro Colagreco’s Grill 58, named for the temperature at which they cook their perfect Charcoal-grilled Spanish prawn with black garlic dressing at Grill 58.

Minchi: minced pork with potatoes at La Famiglia.

Even the dessert at Root feels all natural.

Tromba Rija has a flowing buffet brunch.

Portuguese Besides darling architecture, the colonial legacy left Macau with scrumptious fare.

Antonio, a Portuguese institution.

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steaks, and Janice Wong MGM from Singapore’s award-winning pastry chef, both at MGM Cotai (mgm.mo); and Michelin threestar Alain Ducasse’s entire floor of Morpheus (cityofdreams macau.com), composed of a classic fine-dining, a South American– and Asian-inspired restaurant, and a bar. + Looking for more Michelin three-starred

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Antonio (antoniomacau.com) in Taipa village is an institution. Dinner is a lively affair with the eponymous chef wielding a large sabre opening bottles of champagne, over live music and carafes of Portuguese red wine. + A Petisqueira (apetisqueira. com) is a laid-back alternative located in a little blue shophouse serving up favorites such as garlic clams and seafood rice. + Brunch lovers will want to hit up Fernando’s (fernando-restaurant.com) in Coloane, which has been a popular spot for decades for long, convivial days, or Tromba Rija (macautower.com.mo) at the Macau Tower, which offers a generous Portuguese buffet spread good for families on Sunday afternoons. + For creative modern-European cuisine, check out Root (rootmacau.com) by locavore chef Anthony Sousa Tam, who grows most of his vegetables with hydroponics.

c l o c k w i s e f r o m t o p : r u ss e l l m a c m a st e r ; c o u r t e s y o f g r i l l 5 8 ; c o u r t e s y o f t r o mb a r i j a ; L e i g h G r i f f i ths ; c o u r t e s y o f r o o t; c o u r t e s y o f l a fa m i g L i a ( 2 )

Macanese Chinese, Southeast Asian and Lusophone fusion.

gastronomy? Make your reservations for French fine dining at Robuchon Au Dome, or yum cha and haute Cantonese at The Eight. Both restaurants are located at the iconic Grand Lisboa (grandlisboahotels. com) and boast excellent wine lists that surprisingly won’t break the bank. + In fact, for Cantonese, the

c l o c k w i s e f r o m t o p : c o u r t e s y o f f e n g w e i j u ; l e i g h g r i f f i ths ; c o u r t e s y o f r i tz c a r lt o n ; c o u r t e s y o f m a c a u s o u l ; l e i g h g r i f f i ths ; c o u r t e s y o f g o l d e n p e a c o c k ; c o u r t e s y o f th e e i g ht; c o u r t e s y o f t e r r a c o f f e e h o u s e

Chandni Chowk Raj Chaat at Golden Peacock.

Michelin options abound: at twostared Jade Dragon (cityofdreams macau.com), preorder the roasted meats when you make your reservation; Wynn Macau (wynnmacau.com) has one-starred Wing Lei and twostarred panChinese Golden Flower. If you fancy something hot, though, Michelin twostarred Feng Wei

DRINKS Mixology, music and vino.

“Old Beijing” pan-fried pork dumplings at Feng Wei Ju.

Ju (starworld macau.com/dining) serves mouthwatering spicy Sichuan and Hunanese dishes. + Some of the best Indian food in town is at the Michelin one-star Golden Peacock (venetianmacao. com). Here, you’ll find a broad menu of northern and southern Indian dishes. But it is best to head over at teatime for a rich feast from the buffet spread over a good cuppa masala chai.

coffee culture is strong, with several independent COFFEE The cafés serving specialty brews. Get your fix at Single

Enjoy the best sundowners at Goa Nights (goanights.com)— their menu of eclectic cocktails features a mix of spices and flavors inspired by the Portuguese voyage East in the 15th century.

Executive chef Joseph Tse at The Eight.

Terra Coffee House.

Origin (fb.com/singleorigincoffee), Commune Table (fb.com/ communaltablecoffee) and Terra Coffee House (fb.com/ terracoffee). If you prefer a stronger Portuguese-style cup, order an espresso at Ou Mun Café (oumuncafe.com) along with tigelada, a type of Portuguese egg tart, light and fluffy with the consistency of both a canelé and the Malay cake kuih bakar. Proprietor Fernando is Portuguese and has lived in Macau for more than a decade; his dish is an adaptation of one from central Portugal, with less sugar and served with a side of caramel.

Happy-hour gin-and-tonics at The Ritz Carlton Bar & Lounge (ritzcarlton.com) with a background of live Bossanova music is a favorite social habit with the local expats.

you don’t want to join the other tourists Local Snacks Ifflocking to Lord Stow’s bakery (14 R. do Cunha;

Lord Stow’s famous egg tarts can be found in Taipa.

lordstow.com) for egg tarts, the alternative on the main street of Taipa Village is San Hou Lei (13–14 R. do Cunha; 853/28827373), a very local confectionery. They are famous for their bird’s-nest egg tarts, but it’s the Portuguese egg tarts without the fancy dress that hit the spot. + Wander through Taipa Village’s Cunha Street and taste your way through different textures and flavors—from agar-agar jellies made of tropical fruits at the decades-old Mok Yi Kei (9 R. do Cunha) to traditional, powdery almond cookies from Koi Kei bakery (11–13 R. do Cunha; koikei.com) and the ubiquitous, thin slices of sweet barbecue pork.

Duck into the cozy Portuguese wine bar-slash-lounge MacauSoul (macausoul.com), which carries more than 100 different labels from Portuguese wine producers, just a stone’s throw away from unesco site St. Paul’s Ruins.

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the pl ace Morpheus, a new architectural wonder in Cotai.

MGM has an East-meets-West aesthetic.

Mandarin Oriental Since 1984, the grand dame of Macau has always been one of the few hotels without a casino, and, in its newest iteration opened last year, continues to offer respite from the dizzying adrenaline rush of gaming. The sole restaurant, Vida Rica, serves delightful fare from dim sum to modern European, while the bar offers regular cocktail pop-ups. It also has unrivaled views of sunsets over the Macau Tower and front-row seats for the fireworks during the festive

Mandarin Oriental, a calming classic.

season. mandarinoriental.com; doubles from HK$2,500. MGM Cotai The gleaming jewelry box gracing the Cotai skyline is this MGM whose 1,390 rooms include Skyloft duplexes and villas. The centerpiece of the integrated resort is “The Spectacle,” a vast four-story atrium with beautiful indoorplant landscaping, the world’s largest permanent indoor LED screen, retail, entertainment and celebrity chef–led dining under its naturally lit canopy. The permanent art collection of more than 300 pieces bridges East and West. Retail options include the überexquisite Chinese couturier Guo Pei and Singaporean designer Ethan K. mgm.mo; doubles from HK$2,000. Morpheus The futuristic steel-structure by Zaha Hadid is the latest addition to the Cotai strip. The architectural masterpiece is the world’s first high-rise supported by free-form steel exoskeleton, with two towers

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The Parisian Sands Resorts’ latest project on the Cotai Strip, The Parisian Macao is decked out in gold and red, with opulent oldworld interiors and an eyepopping 3,000 rooms. Outside is a Tour d’Eiffel that, half the size of the original in Paris, holds La Chine, a Frenchinspired Chinese restaurant. The mini-Tower is linked to the hotel by a footbridge that showcases the design of

Look down on an Eiffel Tower at The Parisian.

industrial mastery. The 1,200seat theater hosts many international acts, and kids’ activities. parisianmacao.com; doubles from HK$1,300. Wynn Palace Wynn Palace on the Cotai Strip has a glorious façade lined with cable cars offering the best view of their fountain spectacle. Home to Macau’s largest floral art, their eclectic art collection is not too shabby either; check out the rare Ming vases and Jeff Koons’s psychedelic Tulips. The massive spa offers treatments fit for royalty, such as a diamond-and-gold facial. Each of the 1,706 rooms and suites has an intuitive touchscreen panel to control everything; and the three-bedroom Garden Villas have 24-hour butlers, 800-thread count Frette sheets and, of course, private pools. wynnpalace.com; doubles from HK$1,700. >>

c l o c k w i s e f r o m t o p l e f t: c o u r t e s y o f m o r p h e u s ; l e i g h g r i f f i ths ; c o u r t e s y o f th e pa r i s i a n ; c o u r t e s y o f m a n d a r i n o r i e n ta l

Where to Stay

Our favorites among the slew of shiny new (and improved) hotels that have elevated the city skyline.

connected by a sky bridge, and 770 rooms and villas, the latter of which begin at 582 square meters. Dining options are top notch: besides the Alain Ducasse floor, there’s a Pierre Hermé Lounge with an extensive spread from the patisserie maestro, and his creations are served exclusively at breakfast as well as for in-room dining. cityofdreamsmacau.com; doubles from HK$3,000.

the pl ace

Sardines at Lojas Das Conservas.

Where to SHOP

Colorful delights at Mercearia Portuguesa.

Eschew the tacky casino-chip keychain souvenirs, and instead head over to Mercearia Portuguesa (merceariaportuguesa.com) at Albergue 1601 for beautifully packaged traditional Portuguese soaps and artisanal food items from jars of jam to traditional sweets. + Lojas Das Conservas (9 Tv. do Aterro Novo; 853/6571-8214) has floor-toceiling shelves of every type of sardine can you can think of in psychedelic packaging. + Shop Macau’s local creative designs at the MOD Design Store (Largo da Companhia de Jesus, by St. Paul’s Ruins), which carries kooky items, including T-shirts, mugs and umbrellas.

INSIDERS’ tips

Miguel de Senna Fernandes l aw y e r a n d p l ay w r i g h t ; p r e s i d e n t

Rebecca Glade

AntHony Sousa tam

p r e s i d e n t o f t h e i n t e r n at i o n a l

macanese chef and owner

o f t h e m a c a n e s e a s s o c i at i o n

l adies club macao

o f r o o t r e s ta u r a n t

Every year for the last 25 years, I write and produce a Patua play for the Macau Arts Festival in May as an ongoing effort to preserve Patua, our Macanese dialect. The Macau History Museum and Maritime Museum are comprehensive places to get local history. The Civic and Municipal Bureau showcases artifacts dating to the 14th century. The best spot to capture Macau is behind the Ruins of St. Paul by the 15th century Na Tcha Temple, where you get an amazing view of old and new, with Grand Lisboa in the skyline. Taipa Village is fantastic for colonial Portuguese architecture and shophouses.

What many don’t know is the Macallan Whiskey Bar at the Galaxy (galaxymacau. com) makes a mean margarita, in addition to their whiskey collection. A great place for brunch in Macau is Aurora at Altira (altiramacau.com): great seafood and they keep your bubbles filled. Don’t leave before stopping by Quarter Square (89 Largo Maia de Magalhaes, Taipa Village; quartersquare.co) for a good cuppa; it’s a neat little concept shop with well-curated home décor items. After shopping, head up to the rooftop for a lovely view of Taipa and say hello to the resident French bulldog, Copper, on your way out.

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The pork bun and egg tart are very well known foods in Macau, however there are plenty of local dishes that aren’t on the tourist map. I love spicy beef noodles from Taipa Tip Kei Sopa Fritas (Av. de Kwong Tung 130, Edf. Nam San Block 6 r/c), and in winter I like to have a warm almond dessert at Tin Heung Yun (5 R. Tres do Bairro da Areia Preta) in the backstreets of Barra. We often get dim sum with the kids at Lua Azul (macautower.com.mo). On my days off, we go regularly to Vencedora (R. do Campo, 264R. Edf. Pak Nin Son) a Portuguese restaurant I have been going to since I was a toddler.

c l o c k w i s e f r o m t o p l e f t: c o u r t e s y o f m e r c e a r i a p o r t u g u e s a ; c o u r t e s y o f l o j a s d a s c o n s e r va s ; c o u r t e s y o f a n th o n y s o u s a ta m ; courtesy of rebecca gl ade; courtesy of miguel de senna fernandes

Pick up local design items and traditional snacks as take-home gifts with a difference.

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wish you were here

Famously straddling Asia and Europe, Istanbul is a swarming megacity at a crossroads. Calls to prayer float in the air competing with a cacophony of howling sirens and bleeting car horns. Only the domed mosques with towering minarets that dot the skyline offer refuge from the fray. Dominating Istanbul’s Golden Horn, Süleymaniye Mosque encases a grand inner courtyard surrounded by arched porticos—a bastion of tranquility from the world beyond its gates. — SCOTT A. WOODWARD

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