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The Samaya Ubud is spectacularly located amid the rice fields and verdant hillsides of Ubud, Bali’s cultural and artistic capital, and a magnet for tourists for almost a century. The hotel’s nineteen spacious villas boast a range of accommodation options, including one-bedroom deluxe villas, or two- and three-bedroom royal villas, the height of luxury and indulgence.
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Volume 08 / Issue 07
Contents
July 2014 Special 103 Patients Without Borders Medical tourism is about a lot more than just medicine. di a na h u bbell maps out Asian itineraries that add fun and relaxation to the healthy equation. Plus Some of the best recovery retreats, weirdest procedures and more. illustr at ed by wasin ee ch a n ta kor n
Features
114 Into the Mystic Among 800 pristine Burmese islands and the few thousand sea gypsies who call them home, j en in n e lee - st . joh n sails off the grid and into a dream world of romantic legends. Just let her sleep a while longer. pho t ogr a phed by r ich a r d mcleish . m a p a n d gu ide page 121 122 China Beaches Starting at the Victorian treaty port of Xiamen in Fujian, ga br ielle ja ffe islandhops her way to Taiwan, discovering that the archipelago of Kinmen isn’t so far from the motherland. m a p a n d gu ide page 127
the island’s remote natural retreats. pho t ogr a phed by l au ry n ish a k . m a p a n d gu ide page 136 138 The Return of Biarritz The classic European beach destination, newly reinvented as a laid-back, surfer-bohemian hot spot. lu k e ba r r reports. pho t ogr a phed by m at t hie u sa lva ing . m a p a n d gu ide page
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144 Not-to-Miss Beaches and Islands We can all agree: Asia’s remote atolls and busy beaches are photogenic. So T+L asked some of our professional shutterbugs to share their favorite spots for a swim—and a snap. 154 Cruising Three Ways Three buzz-worthy new ships from Oceania, Celebrity and Princess take to the Mediterranean. jane wooldridge tests the waters. pho t ogr a phed by a n dr e a w y n er . m a p page 159
RICHARD MCLEISH
128 Transcendence Rising above prosaic daily life, and Bali’s hectic south, holly mcdona ld hits the restart button at some of
Moken children ply Burma’s Mergui Archipelago, page 114. T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
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Contents 76
46 Politbrewo Oddly, North Korea has some great ales. cole pennington sees the Hermit Kingdom through the bottom of a mug. 56 Melt in Your Mouth When two French chocolatiers start experimenting with fruity and spicy Vietnamese cacao beans, the results are decadently delectable. duncan forgan takes a bite.
A Dash of Drama The Chinese seaport Dalian has one of the world’s longest boardwalks and the biggest city square. gabrielle jaffe suggests you dally a while.
Plus A roadtrip along Cambodia’s south coast; a Michelin-starred master cooking class in Vietnam; stylish carry-ons; a new Japanese island; and more.
Point of View
78
Island Fantasy The charms of the East Coast– vacation. devin friedman finds his inner WASP on Martha’s Vineyard.
Trip Doctor
84 The Fix When is it worth upgrading to premium economy airline seats? 88 Strategies: The Smart Traveler’s Guide to
Luxury reclusion at the brand new Hansar Pranburi, in Thailand, page 29.
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Social Media Seven ways social media can improve your vacation. by amy chen 98 Deals A family-friendly tour of Bhutan; an artsy hotel in Australia; an epicurean journey in the Philippines; and more.
Plus T+L’s social media awards winners; and more.
Decoder
Departments 18 22 … i n b o x 24
e d i t o r ’s n o t e
contr ibu tors
29 Silent Shores Just three hours from Bangkok, Pranburi is adding a little luxury to its résumé of natural beauty. 38 Arresting Development A new creative hub has emerged in Hong Kong: the Police Married Quarters (PMQ). by helen dalley
16 …
On the Cover The Wanakasa Villa pool at the COMO Shambala Estate Ubud, in Bali. Photographed by Lauryn Ishak.
160 Kuala Lumpur In the Malaysian capital, mark lean steps beyond the glitz to uncover a city full of charms to the many cultures that call it home. photographed by kit chan
Last Look
166 ian lloyd neubauer joins the thrilling celebrations held by Papua New Guinea’s aboriginal tribes.
COURTESY OF HANSAR PR ANBURI
Radar
dest i nat ions
Destinations
July 2014 123
BI A RRIT Z 78
138
M A R TH A’S V I N E YA RD
122
106
M E RG U I A RC H I PE L AGO, BU RM A
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68 160
XIAMEN
K E P, CA M BODI A KUA L A LU M PU R
DESTINATION
PAGE
WHEN TO GO
WHAT US$5 BUYS
WHO TO FOLLOW
Biarritz
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The water, temperature and waves are still good in September, when most of the summer crowds have gone home.
An hour’s swim fins rental at Biarritz Grande Plage Surf Shop.
@BiarritzTaxi
Kep, Cambodia
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Road conditions are best from October through April, minimizing driving time to Kep’s always-sunny beaches.
One kilogram of small crabs at Kep Crab Market.
@KepExpo
Kuala Lumpur
160
June through August has the least amount of rainfall, with temperatures hovering around 32 degrees.
Roundtrip SkyBus tickets from Kuala Lumpur International Airport 2 to KL Sentral.
@TimeOutKL
Martha’s Vineyard
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July through October has warmer waters and a full calendar of events, from the Aquinnah Music Festival to lobster roll fairs.
A bleacher seat at a Martha’s Vineyard Sharks summer league baseball game.
@vineyardgazette
Mergui Archipelago, Burma
114
Steady wind makes December through February good for sailing, while whale sharks and manta rays thrill divers from February to April.
A longtail boat ride from Ranong, Thailand, to Kawthaung, Burma.
@BurmaBoating
Xiamen
122
With an average temperature of 21 degrees, it’s travel-friendly most of the year—just keep an eye out for typhoon season, spanning July to September.
The entrance fee to Shuzhuang Garden, formerly a private villa, on Gulangyu Island.
@Xiamenhoteltwit
Long Weekend
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Beach
Active
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Food+Drink
Shopping
Arts+Culture
Editor’s Note
July 2014
F
Where We’re Going
Shanghai Australia Southern Thailand Seville
The T+L Code Travel + Leisure editors, writers and photographers are the industry’s most reliable sources. While on assignment, they travel incognito whenever possible and do not take press trips or accept free travel of any kind.
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N A P AT R A V E E W AT
WHERE TO FIND ME
chrisk@mediatransasia.com @CKucway on Twitter
ew places in the world have changed more than China in the past two decades. That’s my waking thought as I roll out of a comfortable 32nd-floor bed at the Four Seasons Pudong. Just out my window is a thickening forest of steel-and-glass skyscrapers, including the 128-floor Shanghai Tower, which dwarfs all its predecessors though it’s still under construction. On my first visit to Shanghai, some 25 years ago, I recall the view of Pudong from the Bund as nothing more than a lone farmer plowing the field with an ox. From this distance—both vertically and chronologically—it’s easy to feel set apart, on an island. It’s that same feeling we yearn for on any of our beach vacations, a sentiment that, in this, our annual Beaches+Islands special, is as plentiful as palm trees. In Bali, for instance, we take a look at some of the island’s far-flung natural retreats (“Transcendence,” page 128). “My time here is a whirl of healthful meals, spa classes and quiet,” the author writes, a line that should incite us all to visit. Still, if you dream of somewhere even further off-the-beaten path, then the remote outcrops sprinkled around the Mergui Archipelago in Burma will be more to your liking (“Into the Mystic,” page 114). The only clue I’ll reveal about this stop is that, in a place with more than 800 islands, many have yet to be named. More than names, it’s the memories of our trips that matter. Snapshots of our holidays, whether saved on our phones or shared along social media, have never been more prominent and, in the best cases, those mental images evoke a transporting narrative. That’s why we asked our regular photographers for their favorite beach or island images (“Not to Miss Beaches+Islands,” page 144). Their gallery will have you conclude, as photographer Lauryn Ishak upper-cased me after her Bali assignment, you need to go.—chr istopher k uc way
Contributors
Diana Hubbell
Mark Lean
Lauryn Ishak
what surprised you most about the medical tourism industry? Quality is just as much of a driving factor as price. i need a liver transplant... and a tummy tuck. South Korea might be plastic surgery central, but for a tummy tuck check out Bangkok’s Yanhee or Bumrungrad, both for the savings. As for the liver, splurge a bit at Gleneagles in Singapore— you’re going to want something that can stand up to free-flow brunches and craft cocktails. healthy restaurant runners-up In Bangkok, I’m obsessed with Simple and their enormous avocado salads, and I love Demi’s vegetarian Taiwanese. In Singapore, The Pelican for healthy seafood... though I’d probably end up ordering the lobster Thermidor and red velvet cake instead.
hottest trend in kuala lumpur’s nightlife scene I hope to see more of the fun, bijou, insider bars like Omakase + Appreciate. what’s your favorite neighborhood for a stroll? The Forest Research Institute of Malaysia in Kepong has a pleasant expanse of greenery to chill out at. But go soon—a highway is set to cut through it in a couple of years. i’ve got 24 hours to see and do the best of everything The best way to navigate through a city—especially this city—is with its food. Ask locals where the best spots are. Brickfields’ banana leaf rice restaurants are a good bet, as are the durian buffets in Petaling Jaya’s SS2.
you’ve moved away from asia. how’d it feel getting back to bali? Foreign yet familiar. Having been away for a year and a half, there was some trepidation as well as excitement. Living in Basel, Switzerland, I hadn’t been anywhere tropical in so long so I actually welcomed the heat and humidity. souvenir moment Discovering West Bali National Park. I’ve been to the island countless times but never up north. It’s so different from the rest— quiet and peaceful, not something you’d usually associate with Bali. taking sunset shots For me, sunsets come down to the feeling the picture gives you. Part of it, of course, is composition and exposure, but the best sunsets I’ve seen in my life, I put down the camera and just enjoy the moment.
Writer “Decoder: Kuala Lumpur” (page 160).
Photographer “Transcendence” (page 128).
‘The best sunsets I’ve seen in my life, I put down the camera and just enjoy the moment.’ —L AURYN ISHAK
F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F D I A N A H U B B E L L ; C O U R T E S Y O F M A R K L E A N ; C O U R T E S Y O F L A U R Y N I S H A K
Writer “Patients Without Borders” (page 103).
Inbox
Los Angeles Is What’s Happening From farm-to-table to food trucks, “Eating L.A.” [April] reminded me of why I love the California food scene. One thing the U.S. East Coast can never match: In-N-Out Burger! Emily Anderson new york , n .y.
EATING L.A.
THE ALWAYS-VORACIOUS GARY SHTEYNGART TAKES ON ALL OF L.A., HIGH AND LOW, FARM TO TABLE, TACOS TO RICE BOWLS, BUCATINI CARBONARA TO COCONUT CREAM—THE BEST FOOD IN THE CITY RIGHT NOW. PHOTOGRAPHED BY MISHA GRAVENOR
Tomahawk and Shigoku oysters at Connie & Ted’s, in West Hollywood. Opposite: Chego’s Roy Choi.
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Cheers to Chicago
I’ve lived in the city my whole life, and had never experienced a place like Three Dots & a Dash (threedotschicago.com), in River North, before reading your Chicago Decoder [March]. The drinks are delicious, and the tiki lounge makes you feel like you’re on a tropical vacation—which will be a welcome escape come winter! David Paul Walker chicago
Young and Wild and Free
I love seeing how pretty Travel+Leisure Southeast Asia photos are. I respect it, for when I’m
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older I’ll be able to do those things. Now, I’m young and going to the same countries you feature but doing it local. I’ve walked away with so many new friends, from random car rides to parties in Central American, to motorbike trips in Southeast Asia. Explore the globe safely and you will see it truly. f Ronnie Kaufman Musing on Malaysia
Langkawi [“Legends of Langkawi,” May 2012] is so beautiful. I have happy memories of a great holiday we had there. f Kate Cross malaga , spain
tleditor@mediatransasia.com, travelandleisureasia.com, f facebook.com/ TravelLeisureAsia or @TravLeisureAsia.
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Radar On Our
Phraya Nakhon cave in Sam Roi Yot.
© P L AT O N G K O H / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M
News. Finds. Opinions. Obsessions.
weekender
SILENT SHORES
Just three hours from Bangkok, Pranburi is adding a little luxury to its résumé of natural beauty.
When the mountains start to multiply, the palm trees thicken and the horizon runs rugged with sea stacks, you know you are nearing Pranburi. Past the sleepy town center, with its sprawling and surprisingly empty beach, you’ll find the 300 peaks of Sam Roi Yot National Park, wetlands, caves, endless aquatic adventures and a few hidden shores worth getting lost to find. Now an influx of high-end resorts is elevating the accommodations to match the environs. Turn the page for our favorite pursuits on this raw and still untouched sweep of Thailand. ➔ T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
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Radar
Clockwise from left: Sam Roi Yot National Park; a Hansar Pranburi bungalow; catching wind and waves.
q&a
Inside Scoop
Take a long-tail boat tour through the mangroves of Pranburi Forest Park. The park extends across 3.2 square kilometers, weaving through pine-dotted beaches, the Pranburi River and a small fishing village. Get Carried Away
The kilometers of soft beach, uninterrupted by rocks or docks, paired with the strong wind along this coast make Pranburi the ideal spot to learn how to kitesurf. Book a beginner’s course at Airstylers Kite School
(airstylerskiteschool.com; Bt12,000 for a four-session beginner’s course) and you’ll be on the waves in no time. Cycle the Coast
Rural Road 1020, the street that winds through Pranburi to Sam Roi Yot National Park, has been widened to include a paved bike lane that currently spans 6 kilometers. An addition 4 kilometers of trail is still under construction, which will make it one of 30
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the longest dedicated bike paths in the country.
Q: Why Pranburi? A: It is a special location. You can see cows walking on the beach or monkeys swimming up next to you. You can connect with nature here.
Hide Out
Enjoy a little luxury reclusion at the brand-new 17-room Hansar Pranburi (hansar pranburi.com; doubles from Bt6,000). This intimate beachfront resort is nestled into a quiet crook on the border of the national park, facing endless ocean and backed by lush mountains. Closer to Hua Hin, the recently opened Sheraton Hua Hin Pranburi Villas (starwood
hotels.com; doubles from Bt7,000) offers private pool suites and in-villa massages.
Ogle the Ocean
Two islands near the national park have earned the area the nickname “Brassiere Beach” for reasons that will become obvious on the horizon. Kayak over for a closer look and you’ll find yourself afloat in an island-studded postcard. Then stop by Monkey Island to spy macaques shucking oysters
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
for breakfast and you may even bump into dolphins. Go Caving
There are a number of caves to explore in Sam Roi Yot, but the most spectacular is Phraya Nakhon. These two giant caverns are lined in columns where stalagmites and stalactites met after thousands of years of formation. A pavilion was built inside the recessed grotto in 1890, at the bequest of King Chulalongkorn. The cave’s roof long ago collapsed, so the hollow is flooded in natural light, lending it a regal air indeed. T+L Tip: Ask reception at Dolphin Bay (dolphinbay
resort.com) to help you organize family-friendly excursions. ✚
Q: How has it stayed a secret? A: Most people just don’t think past Hua Hin. Even some of my Thai friends don’t know about Sam Roi Yot or Pranburi. Q: What do you while you’re here? A: In Bangkok, I’m always glued to my phone or computer. Here it is nice to be outside all day—not in the A.C. or on a device. I like having some quiet time. Q: Any tips for future visitors? A: This is a destination for people who are familiar with Thailand. It is a different kind of landscape, very charming and authentic.
C L O C K W I S E F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F H A N S A R P R A N B U R I ( 2 ) ; C O U R T E S Y O F A I R S T Y L E R S K I T E S C H O O L
Wander the Wetlands
We asked Hansar Pranburi co-founder Suzanne Vertillart Chayavichitsilp for her thoughts on this burgeoning beach.
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Radar
debut
Green is Good
The latest theme park off Singaporean shores is slated to be an earth-friendly megopolis. By Diana Hubbell A frenetic blend of marine biology, sustainable tourism, luxury travel, and over-the-top spectacle, Funtasy Island lives up to its cheeky name. Sure it might sound like a Disney ride, but this ambitious “eco theme park” has a wider audience in mind. Slated for launch before the end of the year, the park will sprawl across 328 hectares in Indonesia’s Riau Islands, just 16 kilometers away from Singaporean shores. Nature trails, aquatic sports, a water park, a beach club, and kid-friendly activities are all on the agenda. And in the stolen moments of down time, guests can choose from 352 villas and 158 suites to lounge in, including the extravagant 480-squaremeter Forest Bungalow.
con f essions of a
I’m a camera specialist, but half the questions I get are “How do I do this on my iPad?” or “I can’t send a message from my iPhone.” I’m not an Apple Genius!
r i v er cru ise gu ide
Floating down the Mekong isn’t always smooth sailing. We got the scoop from an onboard naturalist and photography expert.
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Still not quite outrageous enough for you? Visitors looking to get hitched can do so on the oh-so-campy Love Island, where a glass chapel, hundreds of heart-shaped plants, and space for 1,000 of your nearest and dearest await. Those more interested in biology than matrimony will appreciate that the park has plenty of green cred to back up its eco claims. The developers promise that 70 percent of the area will be kept as a nature preserve, and that trees or corals will be planted for each of the anticipated 1 million annual guests, leaving a lasting mark. Or to put it another way: What grows in Funtasy Island, stays in Funtasy Island. funtasyisland.com.
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
r ec o n
THE LATEST NEED-TOKNOW OPENINGS Hotels The Pullman Panjin Oriental Ginza (pullmanhotels.com) is bringing snow-white rooms and modern flare to this coastal Chinese city. + Shopaholics, set your sights on the four-star Mercure Jakarta Sabang (mercure.com), for easy access to the capital’s major malls. + What’s new at the overhauled Capella Marigot Bay (capellamarigotbay.com), in St. Lucia? An outdoor spa and a “rum cave” for tastings. Restaurants Fischer’s (fischers.co.uk), the latest London opening from hit makers Corbin & King (the Wolseley; the Delaunay), pays homage to 1900’s-era Viennese Kaffeehäuser. Culture “Sawatdee Anxiety,” a collection of sculptures by Suwit Maprajuab and acrylic paintings by Peerawayt Krasaesom, will be showing at WhiteSpace Gallery (whitesp-cegallery.com) in Bangkok through August 15.
One crew member visited the spa after every excursion—saying the massages “relieved the stress of the day”—then charged it to the ship’s staff account. After she got caught, well, her onboard bill turned out to be a lot higher than expected!
Elderly men, often large in the waist, wear tight, very revealing Speedos on the pool deck. Needless to say, they can become a distraction for the other guests.
One time, a passenger who complained the entire trip fell into the reflecting pool just outside our hotel on the final night. Moral of the story: don’t be rude.
C O U R T E S Y O F F U N TA S Y I S L A N D ( 2 )
From left: Plans for Funtasy Island; a starfish napping in the coral reef.
the insider
What Makes a Great Restaurant Soundtrack
Chef (and part-time musician) Andrew Carmellini at his restaurant the Dutch, in New York City.
By Andrew Carmellini
Beware the “shuffle” button! I create playlists for
all my restaurants. Maybe I’m a control freak, but I love the process. If I have 100 things to do, “Make soundtracks” is the one I’ll jump to first. (Right after “Test these four pasta recipes.”) At each place, it’s the same list every night, in order. So I know it’s 9:45 when Broken Bells comes on at the Dutch (thedutchnyc. com). Playlists are a progression—you want the music to unfold throughout the night, in terms of genres, BPM (beats per minute), the mood you set.
When the restaurant’s full, you shouldn’t really “hear” the music. You’ll know it’s
JAKE CHESSUM
there, but it won’t take over. Then again, if the room is too quiet—you hear waitstaff gossiping, glasses being cleaned—that’s distracting as well. Music fills that sonic space. It actually helps you focus on your conversation. But no 14-minute cuts! It’s annoying when a song is droning on and on while you’re waiting for dessert. You need a fresh track every three to four minutes.
Don’t be afraid to counterprogram. When we opened Locanda Verde
(locandaverdenyc.com),
people asked, “Why don’t I hear Frank Sinatra?” Maybe they figured, Robert De Niro’s a partner, it’ll have this red-sauce, Louis Prima vibe. Instead we’re playing “Hip Hop” by Dead Prez. But when that bass line came on, people were like, “Oh, yeah!” Now we’re opening Bar Primi (barprimi.com), in the East Village, which is all about house-made pasta, so for the soundtrack I’m thinking deep soul. I’ve been digging into MixCloud (mixcloud.com) and finding these great obscure tracks. I like playing songs that got turned into hip-hop samples. I’d probably never play “My Name Is” by Eminem, but everyone knows those eight bars of Labi Siffre’s “I Got the...” People are like, “Wait, I know that tune,” but it’s not quite what they think it is. Silence can also work. I went to La Grenouille
(la-grenouille.com) for my birthday. It was awesome— and there was no music playing. It’d be weird if there were music at La Grenouille! Personally, I don’t want to spend US$400 on dinner and be pummeled by “When the Levee Breaks” (although I do love Led Zeppelin). As a rule, I stay away from classic rock on my playlists. I grew up with that music—I can play
all those songs on guitar—so they’re no longer fresh to me. Give the people what they want—occasionally. I’ve
changed my philosophy on this. I used to resist playing “hits,” like a No Doubt or Smiths song. But you realize, that’s when people go, “Omigod, I love this song!” and start bouncing and singing along. In the end, you want guests to be happy. So I’ll put a few Easter eggs in the mix. Building a playlist is like building a menu: you can have your obscure, challenging things, but you also need some crowd-pleasers, some lighter
stuff. It can’t be all sweetbreads and headcheese. —As told to Peter Jon Lindberg
a n d r e w c a r m e l l i n i ’s f r i da y - n i g h t t o p
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1. “Dee On,” DJ Babu 2. “Testin’ Me,” Madlib 3. “Fire,” RJD2 4. “Hold On,” Lady, the Band 5. “Kooley Is High,” Kooley High 6. “Pharaohs,” SBTRKT 7. “The Crush,” Raashan Ahmad 8. “Package of Love (Part 1),” Dynamic Tints 9. “Colours,” Calvin Harris 10. “Faithful,” Common
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Radar on the map
Bustling Batu Belig
Local life is fused with international flavors along Bali’s sizzling Seminyak backstreet of Batu Belig, with new shops, hotels and restaurants heating up the ’hood. By Holly McDonald 5 For a souvenir that will last longer than your suntan, stop by Kevala—the Sanskrit word means perfect and complete—where you’ll find artisanmade ceramics that live up to their name. Jln. Batu Belig; kevalaceramics.com.
4 Beautiful hand-crafted recycled paper, greeting cards and notebooks fly off the shelves at Kado
by Saraswati Papers. Jln. Batu
Belig; 62-361/ 473-2117; saraswati papers.com.
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Distinct geometric patterns inspired by Bali’s shifting light are printed on cottons and silks at Bare, created by Bali-based Australian designer Sarah Leslie. Toss on a bamboo bangle and coral ring to complete your tropical look. Jln. Batu Belig, next to Watercress; barehabit.com.
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Claim a canopied beach lounge at 1
Mozaic Beach Club, then after sunset head upstairs for a tasting menu with matching wines. Jln. Pantai Batu Belig; mozaic-beachclub. com; tapas for two Rp600,000, tasting menu Rp1,650,000 per person.
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2 By day, shabby-chic Watercress offers scrumptious rustic breakfasts, Revolver coffee and veggie-heavy lunches; by night, the meatier dinners are served by flickering candlelight. Jln. Batu Belig 21a; watercress bali.com; dinner for two Rp500,000.
Photographed by Nikko Karki
8 Feet far from beach-ready? Fear not: glitzy standalone manicure and pedicure salon Think Pink Nails will have them trimmed and in sandal-safe shape in no time. Jln. Batu Belig 108; 62-361/918-8116; signature pedicure Rp150,000.
11 You’ll find fare with a French feel and attention to detail in two-story, quirky Bow. Order fresh grilled sardines while overlooking the area’s lovely, though fastvanishing, rice paddy. Jln. Batu Belig; 62-812/39186865; dinner for two Rp500,000.
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At Bathe, a sleek range of paraffin- and parabin-free bath and shower products shares shelf space with olfactory accoutrements like scented candles. Jln. Batu Belig 88; bathestore.com. 6
7 Coco and Ginger sells stylishly sweet clothes for girls designed by Australian Saffron Pugh-Blaby and stitched in Indonesia—think dreamy prints and flowy batik silks. Jln. Batu Belig 88; 62-361/402-0841; cocoandginger.com.
10 Wrought-iron beds, antique Javanese textiles and marble and copper bathroom fittings add to 16-room Brown Feather’s charm. Jln. Batu Belig 100; 62-361/473-2165; brownfeather.com; doubles from Rp700,000.
9 The greatest culinary hits of the Indonesian archipelago are served up hot at popular local joint Warung Cobek. Try Java’s famed rawon (black beef soup), a padang nasi campur (mixed dishes with rice) or a classic nasi goreng. Jln. Batu Belig 81; lunch for two from Rp60,000.
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Radar
the moment
Queenstown, New Zealand
It feels much later than it is at Aro Ha Wellness Retreat—45 minutes outside of Queenstown in New Zealand’s Southern Alps. But the afternoon meditation session is about to begin, and after the exhausting day you’ve had, a good stretch is just what your body needs. Today’s 6 a.m. yoga class seems like a distant memory after that 16-kilometer hike on Mount Judah, high above Lake Wakatipu, where only your labored breathing pierced the silence. Why, again, did you sign up for this weeklong test of endurance? Now you remember, as the sun begins its slow descent behind the snowcapped mountain peaks, drenching everything in a golden glow. The calming energy of the studio—and that incomparable view—clears your mind as each exhalation coaxes the tightness from your muscles. Transformation couldn’t come at a better time. Or place. aro-ha.com. —frances hibbard
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C O U R T E S Y O F A R O H A W E L L N E S S R E T R E AT
5:24 p.m.
Radar
The new and improved PMQ.
c u lt u r e
Arresting Development
A new creative hub has emerged in Hong Kong with the opening of the revamped Police Married Quarters (PMQ) in Central. By Helen Dalley
Once the setting for domestic drudgery, the Police Married Quarters has been reborn as a hip artistic beacon in Central, Hong Kong. Primed to become the lifeline for the city’s creative scene, this lively hub located on the stylish thoroughfare of Aberdeen Street is now packed with local fashion, jewelry and homeware boutiques, galleries, design studios, pop-up stores and restaurants. Redubbed the hipper-sounding acronym PMQ, the space is made up of two roomy buildings built in 1950 as accommodation for junior police officers. The structures are linked by a 600-square-meter multi-function exhibition space, called The Cube. All this prized property was doled out in a competitive bidding process as part of the Hong Kong Development Bureau’s “Conserving Central” project. Following an open invitation from bidders, the bureau selected a proposal from NGOs Musketeers Education and the Culture Charitable Foundation to transform the site into a creative landmark in 2010, with renovations to the space beginning in 2012. After four years in the making, it is finally celebrating its grand opening this ➔ 38
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Photographed by Philipp Engelhorn
Radar
Clockwise from top: Edgy fashion at YC Yeung Chin; PMQ back in the day; sly shades from Kapok; milling Aberdeen Courtyard & Marketplace; local designer Susanna Soo. Center: Raw scallops at Aberdeen Street Social.
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month, with around 100 permanent studios and a rotating roster of exciting pop up concepts. Long-term residents include established homegrown lifestyle brands such as G.O.D and Chocolate Rain alongside up-and-coming local fashion designers like Susanna Soo and Debbie Leung. With price points spanning from under HK$100 for whimsical stationery at Chocolate Rain to more than HK$15,000 for a fan chair by Brit designer Tom Dixon, the space is attracting everyone from thrifty students to big-budget design devotees, as well as visitors from the throngs of art galleries along nearby Hollywood Road. The proviso for all studios—even the commercial tenants that make up 25 percent of PMQ’s residents—is that each space must champion design as the two NGOs envisioned it, according to PMQ Executive Director Victor Tsang, who elaborates, “We have a Vivienne Tam store, but it’s quite different to her other shops—it’s more like a gallery than a boutique.” All of PMQ’s tenants are encouraged to educate, and the venue has hosted several workshops on everything from creating acrylic accessories with vendor Fabcessories to an introduction to metalsmithing with jewelers The Little Finger. The creativity continues outdoors, where PMQ’s Aberdeen Courtyard & Marketplace hosts European-style night markets on the weekend with live music and food stalls. If alfresco snacks are not your scene, enjoy a sitdown meal at Aberdeen Street Social (facebook.com/aberdeenstreetsocial; dinner for two HK$336), a stand out for contemporary British fare, helmed by Michelin-starred chef Jason Atherton, who was also culinary director at 22 Ships in Hong Kong. After all, browsing art and high fashion is hungry work, and there certainly appears to be a voracious appetite for it—the debut event in April attracted around 10,000 people. “It changed the whole mood of Central,” says Tsang, “because there’s nothing else like it, and we expect it will become a permanent hit.” 35 Aberdeen St., Central; 852/2811-9098; pmq.org.hk ✚
Radar d e s t i n at i o n s
BIRTH OF AN ISLAND Like a movie baddie, the entirely new island that’s sprouted from the waters of Japan is both ominous and beguiling.
Bird’s-eye view of a new island in Japan.
Kuniga beach, Nishino-shima.
25-hour sail aboard the Ogasawara Maru (ogasawarakaiun.co.jp/english;
one-way fares from Y25,960) from Tokyo’s Takeshiba pier to the Ogasawara group, a unesco World Heritage Site consisting of 30 pristine islands, though only two are inhabited. The archipelago is known for its clear waters, home to IndoPacific bottleneck dolphins, humpback and sperm whales, and big green turtles. For the moment, those sea-borne diversions are welcome since Nishino-shima is still active, which means setting foot on the island is prohibited, on account of nuisances like scalding hot lava. For now, visitors can only sail around the new landmass, watching geology do its slow work. Still, do you know anyone else who has been there? ✚
F R O M T O P : D I G I TA L G L O B E /G E T T Y I M A G E S ; M I X A /G E T T Y I M A G E S
Cue the ominous mood music. Having recently risen from the volcanic depths of the ocean like a super villain from a lair, the brandnew Niijima island just might send a shiver up your spine. It started out as a volcanic outcrop, which more often than not erode and sink back into the sea—but this smoldering newborn Japanese landmass 1,000 kilometers due south of Tokyo has staying power. Let us be clear: a speck of land that didn’t exist before last November has now grown to the point of earning island status. And it’s expanding. We’re not blaming Dr. No just yet, but something unusual is afoot in the Pacific. At last count, Niijima had widened to a kilometer across—attaching itself to its nearest neighbor, Nishino-shima—and peaked at around 60 meters. That’s right, it has absorbed another island, and even stole its name. Now known as Nishino-shima, it’s become the newest spot on earth for anyone who loves to tick remote islands off their to-visit lists. But this voyage is not for the faint of heart. To get there, it’s at best a
Explore the hills Explore theon hills of Khao Yai of Khao Yai on horseback. horseback. A Clydesdale, Clydesdale, (left),Aand a Shire. (left), and a Shire.
Take riding Take riding lessons. lessons.
fa m i ly fa m i ly
F R O M T O P : I G O R P R A H I N /G E T T Y I M A G E S ; C O U R T E S Y O F FA R M M O R P O R (2) ; C O U R T E S Y O F K A M O F R O M T O P : I G O R P R A H I N /G E T T Y I M A G E S ; C O U R T E S Y O F F A R M M O R P O R � 2 � ; C O U R T E S Y O F K A M O
Horsing Around
Calling all cowboys, ranch hands and Callingwho all cowboys, ranch hands and anyone swoons for mini-swine. In anyone who swoons Thailand’s hilly Khaofor Yaimini-swine. region, just aIn Thailand’s hilly Khao Yainortheast region, just two-and-half-hour drive of a two-and-half-hour drive northeast of Bangkok, a new adventure farm is opening Bangkok, a new adventure farm is opening its barn doors to nature-loving families. its barn to nature-loving families. Once thedoors vacation getaway of famed Once the vacation getaway of famed Bangkokian doctor and horse enthusiast Bangkokian doctorthe and horse enthusiast Nopadol Saropala, rustic Farm Mor Nopadol Saropala, the rustic Farm Mor Por opened earlier in the year for day-long Por opened earlier in the year for scheduled day-long visits but after the grand-opening visits but after thewill grand-opening scheduled this winter, guests be able to rent out thisentire winter, guests will be able to rent the farm for overnight stays. Theout the entire farm overnight stays.and The ranch is home tofor around 50 horses, ranchthan is home around 50 horses, more half to were imported from and across more than half were from across Europe, including theimported majestic Andalusian, Europe, including the majestic Andalusian,
Belgian and Shire Draft pedigrees. Prefer Belgian andpetite? Shire Draft your ponies You’llpedigrees. also find Prefer your ponies petite? also find miniature horses in You’ll the stables, bringing miniature horses in the stables, together the world’s smallest andbringing largest together the world’s smallest andcan largest breeds. Children under age eight ride breeds. Children under age eight can ride the miniature horses, and the whole family thejoin miniature horses, and thepigs, whole family can in feeding the teacup geese, can join in feeding pigs, geese, chickens and goats. the Thisteacup is a secretly super chickens and goats. a secretly educational day trip,This greatisfor kids on super educational dayTour trip,the great for vineyards kids on summer break. area’s summer break.on Tour the area’s vineyards and cornfields horseback or ATV, then and cornfields on horseback or ATV, then gather eggs and mushrooms for an organic gatherYou’ll eggs and forhome an organic lunch. feelmushrooms right at home, on the lunch.66-81/989-0202; You’ll feel rightfacebook.com/ at home, home on the range. range. 66-81/989-0202; facebook.com/ farmmorporr; riding lessons Bt900 an hour; farmmorporr; riding lessons an hour; overnight stays Bt8,000 for upBt900 to 10 people. overnight stays Bt8,000 for up to 10 people.
goods goods
FOOTLOOSE FOOTLOOSE
Who says women are heavy packers? I eclipse my husband Who says women are heavy packers? I eclipse my husband all the time in the art of traveling light—without giving up all the time in the art of traveling light—without giving up comfort and chic. My trick: a single pair of cleverly comfort and chic. My trick: a single pair of cleverly designed Ka-Mo sandals. One sole and designed Ka-Mo sandals. One sole and several exchangeable tops take me from several exchangeable tops take me from beachwear to evening in a couple of beachwear to evening in a couple of clicks. ka-mo.com; from US$412. clicks. ka-mo.com; from US$412. —patrizia chen —patrizia chen
Radar t r av e l u n i f o r m
CROCODILE DANDY Globe-trotting designer Met Hengtrakul says looking dapper is in the details. By Merritt Gurley “It is better to be overdressed than underdressed,” says Met Hengtrakul of Mettique (mettique.com), a high-end leather accessory brand. This philosophy comes as no surprise from a man who lives for luxury cowhides and reptile leather. Bouncing between his boutique in Bangkok and his go-to tanneries in Singapore and Italy, he totes a crocodile envelope bag and always wears a blazer. But for Hengtrakul, dressing up isn’t about flash; it’s about the fine points. “Fashion is in details,” he says, “the feel of the leather, the lay of the collar.” So Hengtrakul suggests skipping showy in favor of basic colors—“it makes for easier outfit combinations,” he says. “And stick to what you are comfortable in.” But not too comfortable: “I wouldn’t go on a plane in sweatpants—you just shouldn’t be in your PJs in public places.” ✚
“The Mettique Eques duffle [Bt485,000] bag is lined with beautiful vegetable-tanned Italian lambskin so the patina develops the more you use it.”
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Hengtrakul always carries this Mettique envelope bag [Bt195,000], made of hand-stitched crocodile leather.
“I like to travel in pants with a bit of stretch. These slacks by Hugo Boss are thin and very breathable.” Loafers by Bergdorf Goodman. “These shoes were in style 10 years ago and they’ll still be in fashion 10 years from now.”
Photographed by Chanok Thammarakkit
C A B O C H O N H O T E L , B A N G K O K . A S S I S TA N T P H O T O G R A P H E R : P R A M I N L A K L U E N
“Valentino has great cutting, patterns and fabrics. I always love a Valentino shirt.”
“The design of the bezel on this Audemars Piguet watch is sporty and luxurious.”
ge fique Voya My Magni
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Radar Choose from seven brews at Taedonggang Number 3. Below: Wheat beer at Rakwon Paradise Beer.
drink
Politbrewo
Say what you will about North Korea, but they’ve got great ales. Cole Pennington sees the oddities of the Hermit Kingdom through the bottom of a mug.
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There’s nothing like a visit to North Korea to put you in the mood for a drink. But if you envision tippling in Pyongyang as a furtive or downright scary experience, you’d be wrong. The city plays host to a number of microbreweries and modern bars serving up delicious state-produced beer. The experience is eerie, of course, but the setting only spurs interesting bar conversations. After all, the day’s activities, like flying Soviet-era jets or witnessing child guitar prodigies strumming flamenco rhythms in unison, are best processed over a frothy cold one with openminded company. North Korea’s ability to mobilize the population to achieve a goal, when set to the task of producing beer, has resulted in a slew of tasty stateproduced brews. The most well known is Taedonggang Beer, a crisp lager with a five percent ABV produced with brewing equipment imported from
England. Autarkic economic policy stemming from the country’s juche (self-reliance) ideals means that most ingredients are procured domestically, rather than imported, resulting in beers that aren’t quite as hoppy as their western counterparts; instead they veer towards the sweeter side, with a light, malty backbone. What’s even more surprising than flavorful brews in this closed state is how easy it is to drink them. Yes, you’ll have to go through an agent to arrange your trip and follow a pre-approved itinerary, but intrepid beer enthusiasts can contact Bangkok and New Yorkbased luxury outfitters Remote Lands (remotelands.com) or Australia’s Seven Skies (sevenskies. com), for a schedule that includes nightly stops at the local watering holes listed below. the taedonggang number 3 bar Named after the river running ➔
Photographed by Richard Marks and Jay Tindall
Radar
Bartenders must wear state-approved uniforms.
through the capital, this bar serves up an assortment of brews crafted using imported English brewing hardware. Not to be confused with the national favorite Taendonggang Beer, the brews flowing from these taps are numbered one to seven, in true socialist fashion, and what differentiates each one is varying proportions of rice, wheat and barley. Bartenders clad in neatly pressed uniforms hastily pour pints from massive taps for crowds of local elite and visiting businessmen at this upscale bar. The brews ring in at €3 each, and you won’t find them anywhere outside of this swanky spot. Bar snacks, ranging from French fries to an entire dried herring, will help you work your way through all seven varieties.
rakwon paradise microbrewery
This lager-fueled shopping spree will make capitalists feel right at home. On the top floor of Paradise Department Store, customers can enjoy some liquid lubrication before perusing aisles of products and souvenirs. Pyongyang’s most experimental brewer churns out styles that aren’t commonly found in Asia, like a pungent, cloudy wheat beer and a piquant fruit beer—all to the tune of €1 a pint. The best part? All the brewing equipment is in plain
sight for beer geeks to ogle. Copper fermentation tanks sit behind the bar, and the rest of the plumbing is positioned like a laboratory behind a wall of glass running the length of the small room. koryo hotel Pyongyang’s five star (read: three star by Western standards) hotel plays host to an austere bar just left of the lobby that keeps things simple by serving two brews produced on the premises: yellow and black ale. Although slightly metallic tasting, the straw-colored yellow ale is a fantastic complement to the beautiful blue skies and greenery that grace Pyongyang in the spring, while the harsh winters see patrons knocking back the belly-warming black varietal. Regardless of the season, the giant murals of national icons and intricate jade stonework surrounding the bar make for a dramatic backdrop—and isn’t that what you came for? Beers for two €4. T+L Tip: Ask your travel agent in
advance to organize visits to these bars. Once in North Korea you will be assigned a “minder” who travels everywhere with you, and this person will lead you to the aforementioned locales. Addresses are not listed as finding your own way around is not possible.✚
Three nights for two: dreams can come true Hotel Éclat Beijing, Beijing
PArTiCiPATinG HOTELS* HOTELS OFFErinG A COMPLiMEnTArY THird niGHT WiTH TWO PAid niGHTS cHINA
Hotel Eclat Beijing, Beijing Pudi Boutique, Shanghai FrANce
Villa Regalido, Fontvieille Chateau de l’Ile, Ostwald Les Etangs de Corot, Versailles Chateau d’Esclimont, St-Symphorien-le-Chateau Chateau de Gilly, Vougeot Hotel & Spa des Pecheurs, Bonifacio Corsica
Gran Hotel Son Net, Puigpunyent, Mallorca, Spain
Chateau d’Esclimont, France
GerMANY
Brandenburger Hof, Berlin Alpenhof Murnau, Murnau am Staffelsee ITALY
Relais San Lorenzo, Bergamo Relais la Suvera, Pievescola L’ Angolo di San Pietro, Rome Greece
Theoxenia Palace, Athens Canaves Oia, Oia - Santorini The Excelsior Hotel, Thessaloniki *Visit the website below to view the full list of participating hotels
They say that less is more. But sometimes, more is more – especially when it comes to hotel stays. Pay for two nights at any participating Small Luxury Hotels of the World TM hotel with your American Express® Card, and you’ll receive a complimentary third night. Fancy filling your lungs with alpine air at Germany’s Alpenhof Murnau? Or feasting your eyes on the achingly blue turquoise waves of Santorini? Then dive in now. Your three nights are waiting…
To book, please visit www.slh.com/cardmembers or call reservations and quote N6B9. Terms and Conditions for American Express Fantastic Summer Offer: • Offer is valid for stays between 1 July 2014 and 31 December 2014 (both dates inclusive), when you book between now and 29 December 2014. • Offer is bookable via reservations or online. For online booking, please visit: http://www.slh.com/cardmembers. For phone booking, please contact reservations, the numbers are found on http://www.slh.com/contact-us/. Promotion Code “N6B9” must be provided at time of booking • Complimentary night is subject to availability. • To be eligible for the offer, reservations must be made and paid for with any American Express® Card in Card Member’s name. • Cardmembers must stay at least two consecutive paid nights to receive the complimentary third night. The free night is reflected in the total price. • Card Members may book up to a maximum of 2 rooms per stay, and must be part of the travelling party. • Black-out dates may apply and during high demand certain room types may be limited. • Available room categories vary according to each participating property. • Rates are subject to local taxes and service charges. • Offer cannot be combined with other offers, promotions, offers or privileges. • Prepayment/Deposit is required at time of booking. This amount is non-refundable in the event of cancellation or change of dates of stay. • The offer is non-transferable, non-combinable, and valid for new bookings only. • Fulfilment of the offer is the sole responsibility of Small Luxury Hotels of The WorldTM.
exotic & idyllic retreat
Radar
...where life is a private celebration
b e au t y
WHAT’S IN YOUR BAGGIE, NORAH O’DONNELL? The globe-trotting cohost of CBS This Morning reveals her in-flight arsenal.
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Sanur I Ubud I Nusa Dua I Jimbaran P. 62 361 705 777 F. 62 361 705 101 E. experience@kayumanis.com
1 Shiseido Ultimate Sun Protection Cream SPF 50+ “As an O’Donnell, I have fair, burn-prone skin. This formula is light and absorbs quickly.” shiseido. com; US$35. 2 Alcone Makeup Remover Cloths “These wipe away foundation easily and leave my skin feeling refreshed.” alconeco.com; US$6.
www.thegangsa.com
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3 Vega One Bar “Airports aren’t known for their vegan options, so I always pack a protein bar.” myvega.com; US$4. 4 Listerine Pocketpaks “Nothing kills an interview like bad breath!” listerine. com; US$2. 5 La Mer Eye Concentrate “I keep an intense schedule of early mornings, late nights
and last-minute travel—this cream helps disguise lack of sleep.” lamer.com; US$185. 6 Chanel Chance “My signature scent—like all things Chanel, it’s timeless.” chanel.com; US$90. 7 M. A .C Dazzleglass Lipgloss “Great shine and staying power; I own nearly a dozen colors.” maccosmetics.com; US$20. —katie james
F R O M TO P : J O H N F I L O/C B S ; P H I L I P F R I E D M A N
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Radar hotel
EMPIRE STATE OF MIND
COU R T ESY OF T RU M P SO H O N E W YO R K
If you’re visiting Manhattan and want to live like a high-flying local, then Trump SoHo New York’s eight new penthouse suites are just the ticket. Top of the line, and the building, is the duplex terrace penthouse on the 43rd and 44th floors. Double-height floors and a 37-square-meter outdoor terrace offer unrivaled views of Manhattan. King-sized beds are swathed in 330 thread-count linens; the minibar is stocked according to personal preference; and the baths are fitted with Acqua di Parma amenities. Also on the 44th floor you’ll find 167-square-meter penthouses that offer views of the Hudson River, and north-facing units with bathtubs overlooking the Empire State Building. Interiors of each are clean and modern, from the minimalist furnishing to the floor-to-ceiling windows. Looking to relax? Lounge by Bar d’Eau’s outdoor pool deck, then duck into the spa for soothing hammam treatments. If you still aren’t feeling properly pampered, enlist the help of the 24-hour concierge service. The round-the-clock attention may come in handy on late nights spent rocking out to the hotel’s line up of live bands this month. 246 Spring St.; 1-212/842-5500; penthouses from US$5,000 a night. ✚
Bathe in the city lights at Trump SoHo New York.
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Kamenjak Park, at the tip of Croatia’s Istrian Peninsula.
why go
Croatia’s New Wave
The Istrian Peninsula has all the knockout beauty of the Dalmatian Coast—without the crowds. We found four reasons to explore.
Because its islands and beaches are still a (relative) secret. Leave Venice to the cruise ships. Just across the Adriatic, Istria is laid-back and idyllic—and rocky beaches abound. In Kamenjak Park, near Pula, cliff-jumping into the sea is a pastime. Farther north, you’ll find the popular sunbathing spot Monte Beach, reached via steep stone steps, and the wildly beautiful Golden Bay. Board the crewed wooden cruiser Delfin (excursion-delfin. com), based in Rovinj, for daylong trips to outlying fjords and archipelagoes, with stops at St. Andrew (where you can visit a sixth-century monastery), lush St. Katarina Island, and the impressive St. John lighthouse. Because the food blends the best of Croatia and Italy. Istria is known for its simple approach to cooking, the kind championed by native daughter Lidia Bastianich. In Banjole, there’s the rustic, family-run tavern Konoba Batelina (385-525/73767), known for its just-caught seafood. Fifty kilometers north, in Rovinj, the fêted Monte (monte.hr) creates multicourse meals that might
include scampi with beet risotto. Nearby, sample homey small bites such as goatcheese-stuffed peppers paired with the region’s famous Malvasia white wine at Male Madlene (open June through September; 385-528/15905), a harborside restaurant set right in the owner’s living room. Because you’ll find only authentic, handmade arts and crafts. Massproduced is a foreign concept in Istria. On the cobblestoned streets of Rovinj’s old town, every second doorway houses a shop filled with jewelry, figurative miniature paintings, and rustic pottery. Gallery Zdenac (385-955/477-135) displays whimsical fishshaped ceramics and teardrop pendant lamps. For naïve-style paintings and moody photos depicting street life, visit the whitewashed atelier Gallery Brek (385-981/710-297). In Pula, stock up on essential oils and natural beauty products at Aromatica (aromatica.hr), an apothecary where native botanical ingredients are used in everything from soaps spiked with fennel and rosemary to fragrant chestnut tinctures. Because there’s finally a stylish hotel. There’s no missing Rovinj’s Hotel Lone (lonehotel.com; doubles from €338): the retro-futuristic property looms out of the Monte Mulini Forest like an ocean liner, all glossy white exterior and graceful curves. Croatian studio 3LHD is behind the sexy interiors, punctuated with a head-turning vertical garden and a filigree-like steel sculpture in the six-story atrium. —emma sloley
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Photographed by David Alexander Arnold
Radar food
Six Dishes: Tokyo Our abridged, meal-by-meal guide to where and what to eat now. By Shane Mitchell
↑ snack Grilled ayu at Kuroudo-Kuriya Nenohi
Most izakayas are salaryman magnets, but this Marunouchi pub draws a more stylish crowd with its otoushi (salty snacks) and yakitori dishes, like a sweetfish, paired with sakes from the 350-year-old Morita brewery. nenohi.com; US$5.
↑ breakfast Macchiato at Omotesando Koffee
Tired of green tea? On a hard-to-find Omotesando alley, a lone barista brews one Zen cup of coffee at a time. We love the chewy, baked-custard kashi served on the side. ooo-koffee.com; US$5. ↑ lunch Oyster on ice at Seamon Ginza
Chefs with monkishly shaved heads work behind a red lacquer counter, creating a set sushi menu based on the day’s haul from Tsukiji Market. A mainstay: one perfect oyster in a soy vinaigrette. seamon.jp; US$37 for lunch. ↓ dessert Chocolate and mango lamingtons at the Peninsula Tokyo
↑ dinner Vegetables with bonito broth at Ore-no Kappou
At this “standing restaurant” in Ginza, diners lean against counters to eat chef Hiroshi Shimada’s inventive creations, such as a gelée of sweet potato, pumpkin, broccoli and asparagus. oreno.co.jp; US$5. 54
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Japan’s master pâtissiers now rival their Parisian counterparts. Among them: Shigeru Nojima, whose dainty offerings include these sponge cakes made boozy with whiskey. peninsula.com; US$3.50.
↑ to go Hitokuchi-gashi at Higashiya Ginza
A modernist take on the traditional tearoom, Higashiya also sells gift sets of its bean-paste confections, with such enticing flavors as peach compote, dried sour apricot and purple sweet potato, for the plane ride home. higashiya.com; US$17.50. Photographed by Tetsuya Miura
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From left: Award-winning Marou chocolates; dream team Vincent Mourou and Samuel Maruta; cacao beans.
noticed
Vietnam There are dozens of retailers in Vietnam but try L’USINE for their exclusive bars. 70B Le Loi, Saigon. Malaysia Available at B.I.G - Ben’s Independent Grocer. LOT 1A 83 - 95, Level UG, Jln. Dutamas 1, Kuala Lumpur Thailand Five types of bars are on offer at Ceresia Coffee Roasters 593/29-41 Sukhumvit Soi 33/1, Bangkok. Philippines Bennett and Palmer ships these chocolates worldwide. bennettandpalmer.com. Check marouchocolate.com for a complete list.
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Melt in Your Mouth When two French chocolatiers start experimenting with fruity and spicy Vietnamese cacao beans, the result is decadently delectable. Duncan Forgan takes a bite.
Vincent Mourou and Samuel Maruta wouldn’t be first to forge alchemy from a humble bag of beans. In fact, the French duo behind Marou (marouchocolate.com)—Vietnam’s first line of single-origin chocolate bars— have enjoyed a fairytale rise every bit as vertiginous as Jack’s beanstalk. The pair made their initial batch of chocolate in early 2011 in Maruta’s kitchen in Saigon from an unassuming 2-kilogram bag of cacao beans procured from a farmer in the southern province of Ba Ria. Since then they have honed and refined their process to become the standard-bearer for Vietnamese chocolate, winning approval from culinary big-hitters such as multiple Michelin starred-chef Michel Roux and Willie Harcourt Cooze, the British celebrity chocolatier. “Even in the early stages when we didn’t really know what we were doing
we were still aware of the potential,” says Mourou. “Vietnamese cacao produces distinctive fruity and spicy notes and produces bars with freshness and intensity.” Marou currently produces a total of seven dark chocolate bars: five are individually made with beans gathered from separate provinces in Vietnam while the other two are special editions. “Our chocolate is not just single origin, but single province,” Mourou says with a chuckle. Today Marou’s collection of chocolates is exported to major markets around the world and its bars have won accolades at a number of industry awards. Further expansion, it seems, is inevitable. “We are hoping to double our output in the next couple of years,” says Mourou. “Hopefully we can continue to show that you can make a world-class product from Vietnamese cacao.” ✚
F R O M T O P L E F T: P R A M I N L A K L U E N ; C O U R T E S Y O F M A R O U ( 2 )
where to buy
RIMBA by AYANA www.rimbajimbaran.com
www.ayanaresort.com
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Michel Roux presides over a butchery lesson.
cooking
Roux the Day
The Vietnamese have a saying— khong sao—that means “No problem.” It also can be translated as, “Forget about it; we can still be friends.” The ubiquity of this phrase is verbal validation of the Vietnamese skill of moving on. The ongoing French influence in touchstones from the Romanized alphabet to civil law to, of course, cuisine, seems to say: “What’s a little colonization between old pals?” Thus, it’s an amusing irony but little surprise that the first Michelinstarred chef to open a restaurant in Vietnam is a Frenchman, Michel Roux, and that his La Maison 1888 in Danang is named for the year of the official establishment of French Indochina (1887) plus one, to signify the Asian lucky number triple eight. “Sharing is one of the best things in life,” Roux says in explaining why he’ll be offering master classes quarterly at La Maison 1888, and why he’ll be bringing along another Michelin-starred colleague at least once a year. For the inaugural event in May, Roux was joined by Giancarlo
Perbellini, and this power pair, who have earned a total of nine Michelin stars, whipped up three days’ worth of collaborative 10-course degustation dinners and elaborate lunchtime cooking classes—because anything less, Roux winks, would’ve been “lazy and lousy.” Working in the kitchen with six chefs led by the outsize personality that is Roux, whose Waterside Inn in Bray, England, has held three stars longer than any restaurant outside of France, is a frenetic, fun affair not unlike playing and watching a tennis match at the same time. La Maison’s Chef de Cuisine Stéphane Colliet is walking us through butchering a poussin (cut it between the legs and breast, then pull the extremities apart until it resembles a flattened toad) and Roux chimes in, “Attention, mes enfants!,” sending our heads swiveling in the opposite direction to learn how to prep a whole salmon (descale it with a scallop shell, for starters). Perbellini, who has a miniempire of gastronomic and casual
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A new master cooking class in Danang proves that two many chefs can actually sweeten the broth. By Jeninne Lee-St. John
C O U R T E S Y O F I N T E R C O N T I N E N TA L D A N A N G S U N P E N I N S U L A R E S O R T ( 3 )
eateries in Verona and this spring opened La Locanda in Hong Kong, will teach us tiramisu two ways later, but meanwhile hovers about, making sure we don’t cut our fingers—or the chicklet’s shoulders—off. Perbellini is all understated gentility, but that doesn’t prevent him from being playful. In making the simple syrup for mascarpone, for example, the sugar and water should be heated to 121 degrees or “until it has the consistency of, come si dice?... la morve.” How you say it is “mucus” and figuring that out sends us all into fits of laughter—reminiscent, one assumes, of that which must echo through the kitchen of Roux’s cooking classes with his grandkids every summer (“I give them grades!” he jokes). These two chefs have an easy rapport, and the tennis match continues with dinner, to which they contribute alternating, complementing, palate-empowering dishes. The volley of mascarpone ravioli, topped with foie gras and saffron caramel (Perbellini) and panfried lobster with white port sauce
and ginger-flavored vegetable julienne (Roux) is worthy of FedererNadal, though the other eight courses are grand slam level as well. “You don’t need a French passport to be a cook,” Roux insists (and, in fact, his favorite cuisine is Italian), but it helps to have a Chevalier de la Légion d’honneur like him as your guide if you want to throw together, say, a casual salmon in puff pastry with beurre blanc for a relaxed champagne lunch. “C’était mon plaisir, mes petits,” Roux says when we thank him for dedicating six hours to teach us dishes he mastered decades ago—but we can practically hear him thinking, khong sao. La Maison 1888 InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula, Vietnam; danang.intercontinental.com; prix fixe from VND2,700,000 per person; cookery master classes approximately VND8,200,000 per person, but contact the restaurant for schedule and prices. La Locanda Ocean Centre, Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong; diningconcepts.com/La Locanda; dinner for two HK$1,000. ✚
The chef’s table at La Maison 1888.
Roux preps a whole salmon.
Pan-fried gingery lobster.
Star Studded Acts From Around The World 13 September - 26 October 2014
Venue: Main Hall, Thailand Cultural Centre. Performance starts: 7.30pm (matinee: 2.30pm). Doors open: 30 minutes before. FREE shuttle from MRT station. Thailand Cultural Centre, Exit 1, During 5.30-7.00pm.
Bangkok’s 16th International
estival of Dance & Music OPERA • MUSIC • BALLET • DANCE Widen Your Horizons, with Friends and Family
PROGRAMME
Sat 13 Sept (7.30pm) - DON GIOVANNI, opera in two acts Teatro Lirico Italiano of Rome and Macedonia Opera, Italy Conductor: Giuseppe Sabbatini Supported by Embassy of Italy Baht 5,500 / 4,500 / 3,500 / 2,500 / 1,500 Mon 15 Sept (7.30pm) - LA BOHÈME, opera in four acts Teatro Lirico Italiano of Rome and Macedonia Opera, Italy Conductor: Giuseppe Sabbatini Supported by Embassy of Italy Baht 5,500 / 4,500 / 3,500 / 2,500 / 1,500 Tues 16 Sept (7.30pm) - SYMPHONY CONCERT Nova Amadeus Orchestra - Rome, in collaboration with the Orchestra of Macedonia Opera Conductor: Giuseppe Sabbatini. Programme: Classics by Verdi, Puccini and Rossini. Supported by Embassy of Italy Baht 3,000 / 2,500 / 2,000 / 1,500 / 800 Fri 19 Sept & Sat 20 Sept (7.30pm), Sun 21 Sept (2.30pm) CIRQUE ECLIPSE, China National Acrobatic Troupe, Beijing Baht 2,500 / 2,000 / 1,600 / 1,200 / 800 Wed 24 Sept (7.30pm)- SNOW WHITE, Ballet Preljocaj, France Supported by Embassy of France Baht 3,000 / 2,500 / 2,000 / 1,500 / 800 Fri 26 Sept (7.30pm) - THE JIVE ACES, United Kingdom UK’s number one Jive & Swing band. Baht 2,000 / 1,600 / 1,200 / 1,000 / 800 Sun 28 Sept (7.30pm) - AETERNUM, Los Vivancos, Spain Awards winning “Extreme Flamenco Fusion.” Supported by Embassy of Spain Baht 3,000 / 2,500 / 2,000 / 1,500 / 800 Tues 30 Sept (7.30pm), Wed 1 Oct (7.30pm) - THE WORLD’S GREATEST ABBA SHOW, The Arrival, Sweden Sold out concerts and tours in 56 countries since 1995, 35 SOLD OUT tours in the USA since 2005. Baht 3,000 / 2,500 / 2,000 / 1,500 / 800 Sat 4 Oct - MARIO FRANGOULIS & GEORGE PERRIS LIVE IN CONCERT, with Musicians, Greece Baht 3,000 / 2,500 / 2,000 / 1,500 / 800 Mon 6 October (7.30pm) - ZUCHER KAMMER ORCHESTER Switzerland Conductor: Sir Roger Norrington. Programme: Mozart’s Symphonies No.1 & 41 and Beethoven’s Piano Concerto No.2. Baht 3,000 / 2,500 / 2,000 / 1,500 / 800 Thurs 9 Oct (7.30pm) - BLACK DIAMOND, contemporary ballet Danish Dance Theatre, Denmark Supported by Embassy of Denmark Baht 2,000 / 1,600 / 1,200 / 1,000 / 800 Sat 11 Oct (7.30pm), Sun 12 Oct (2.30pm) - TAJ EXPRESS Bollywood musical, Mumbai Supported by Embassy of India Baht 3,000 / 2,500 / 2,000 / 1,500 / 800 Tues 14 Oct (7.30pm) - DELIRIUM: A visual and sound universe from Cali Delirio, Santiago de Cali, Colombia Supported by Embassy of Colombia Baht 2,000 / 1,600 / 1,200 / 1,000 / 800 Mon 20 Oct (7.30pm) - ZUBIN MEHTA and ISRAEL PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA, Israel Programme: three works of Vivaldi, Mozart and Mahler. Baht 10,000 / 7,000 / 5,000 / 4,000 / 2,500
Hotline 02 262 3191 (24 hrs) www.thaiticketmajor.com
Wed 22 Oct (7.30pm) - O MISTERIO - AN EVENING WITH TERESA SALGUEIRO, Portugal Supported by Embassy of Portugal Baht 2,000 / 1,600 / 1,200 / 1,000 / 800 Sat 25 Oct (7.30pm), Sun 26 Oct (2.30pm) - ONEGIN Stuttgart Ballet, Germany Supported by Embassy of Germany, Bosch and Thai-Deutsche Kulturstiftung Baht 5,500 / 4,500 / 3,500 / 2,500 / 1,500
www.bangkokfestivals.com
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TEA FOR TWO
t u to r i a l
How to Drink Tea Like the Taiwanese
A visit to Taipei is not complete without a cup of tea. Melanie Lee lists her top spots for a taste of Taiwanese tea traditions.
Taiwanese culture is deeply steeped in the ritual of sipping tea. Chinese tea enthusiast Melanie Lee says the process is an exercise in precision and simplicity. Wistaria Tea House (No. 1, Lane 16, Section 3, Xinsheng South Rd., Daan Dist.; wistariateahouse.com; tea for two NT$960) is housed in a 1920’s Japanese-style wooden house where Ang Lee’s Eat Drink Man Woman was filmed. Take some time to appreciate the unique Wistaria tea ritual that encompasses values such as rightness, quietness, clarity and roundness.
step 1
step 2
Rinse the gaiwan (a Chinese lidded bowl) with hot water. This warms the cup up, which allows for a more consistent brew.
Add 3 grams of your favorite tea leaves. minsmins I’m partial to oolongs and pu’erhs.
2-3 2-3
2-3 mins
2-3 mins step 3
Add hot water and pour out immediately. This helps to remove the impurities from the leaves.
step 5
Carefully pour the tea from gaiwan into your cup or pitcher.
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step 4
Add hot water, but this time cover the lid and steep for two to three minutes. It’s important not to overcook your tea leaves, or else the drink will taste bitter.
step 6
Appreciate your tea: inhale the fragrant brew, then sip, swirling it in your mouth to truly taste its profile.
While a visit to the red-brick Jioufen Teahouse (142 Jishan St., Ruifang Dist., New Taipei City; jioufen-teahouse.com.tw; tea for two NT$1,200) requires a short train ride just out of Taipei city, it’s worth it to experience tea with misty mountain views and cozy Chinese antique interiors. Its tea snacks are especially cute—think oolong cheesecake.
If you want something a little closer to the English tea experience, make a reservation at the distinctly hipster smith&hsu (Chungyo Department Store, Sanmin Rd.; smithandhsu.com; tea for two NT$1,280) for their popular afternoon high tea sets. Their freshly baked scones are scrumptious, and they offer fun teas such as caramel rooibos, along with the serious Chinese favorites.
I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y C H O T I K A S O P I TA R C H A S A K . F R O M T O P : J A C Q U E LY N S A S S O O N ( 2 ) ; C O U R T E S Y O F S M I T H & H S U
2-3 2-3 mins mins
resort experience in Maldives
THE JEWEL ISLAND An island surrounded by transparent water, deep blue with hints of turquoise. A symphony between sand and sea, this paradise awaits you. Begin the U-experience: call (230) 402 2772/ 73 or visit us at www.constancehotels.com
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1. New Form men’s carry-on bag, Ferragamo, US$1,700. 2. Damier Infini, Keepall 45 with shoulder strap, Louis Vuitton, US$3,300. 3. Alpha 2 International expandable twowheeled carry-on, Tumi, US$1,080. 4. Salsa Deluxe Cabin multiwheel, 21-inch, Rimowa, US$850. 5. Vivolite collection, spinner 55, American Tourister, US$175. 6. Calèche-express, Hermès, price upon request.
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Keep Calm and Carry-on
There’s a fine art to packing for a short trip—that perfect piece of luggage holds everything while still fitting neatly into an overhead compartment. From regal rollers to dreamy duffels, these carry-on beauties may be compact in size, but they are large in luxury. 64
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Photographed by Chanok Thammarakkit
A S S I S TA N T P H O T O G R A P H E R : P R A M I N L A K L U E N
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Carla Sersale in New York City.
the source
Under India’s Spell Designer Carla Sersale falls hard for Mumbai.
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Carla Sersale’s fashion boutique at Le Sirenuse (emporiosirenuse.com), the hotel she owns with her family, may be located in Positano, Italy, but it was creative, chaotic Mumbai that served as muse for her latest collection of blouses, ponchos and tunics. “You feel this powerful sense of joy around you,” she says, “and get blown away by 66
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the vibrancy of the colors.” Here, she shares her inspirations. 1. “When you look out your windows from the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel [tajhotels.com;
doubles from Rs27,500] onto the Bay of Bombay and the
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moon is up, reflecting on the sea, it’s a magical show.” 2. “I love the city’s battered yellow-top taxis. You miss the point riding around in air-conditioned limos.” 3. “I collaborated with my niece, [Mumbai-based designer] Viola Parrocchetti,
on these pillows and caftans for the new collection.” 4. “Bungalow 8 [91-22/22819880] is a beautiful store full of eclectic apparel, rugs, ceramics, glass and jewels— everything carefully blended and displayed together.” —as told to shane mitchell
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: F R É D É R I C L A G R A N G E ; R I C H A R D I 'A N S O N /G E T T Y I M A G E S ; D A V I D A L E X A N D E R A R N O L D ( 2 ) ; K U N I TA K A H A S H I / G E T T Y I M A G E S ; C O U R T E S Y O F TA J M A H A L P A L A C E H O T E L A
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S P ON SOR E D S E RIES GUIDE Getting There There are several direct flights daily from Jakarta to Denpasar, Bali on Garuda (garudaindonesia.com) and AirAsia (airasia.com). From Bangkok there are daily direct flights with Thai Airways (thaiairways. com) as well as AirAsia. Stay The Laguna Resort and Spa Kawasan Pariwisata, Nusa Dua; 62-361/771327; thelagunabali.com; doubles from US$212.
Balinese Idyll Coconut palms swaying in a sea breeze may be the stuff of picture-perfect postcards, but those coconuts do more than merely create an idyllic Bali panorama. In the Lagoon Spa at The Laguna, I’ve been scrubbed to a sheen with a coconut and coffee exfoliant, massaged in virgin coconut oil and now I’m resting my oil-drenched head in the knowing hands of my masseuse, having woken myself with a gentle snore. Must I really leave and go enjoy my holiday? Past stone-carved statues draped in the black and white checked fabric signifying the harmony Balinese culture strives to maintain, I meander down to the Nusa Dua oceanfront for a sashimi and sushi lunch. Along the yellow sands, traditional
arched penjors flutter as swimmers strike out in the calm waters, surf thundering on a reef further out to sea. The serenity of the Nusa Dua enclave is in stark contrast to Bali’s hip but hectic Seminyak district. I find relief at being able to drape myself over a deckchair with no compunction to rush off post-sunset to check out a hot restaurant or funky bar. Everything I need for complete rejuvenation, Bali-style, is within languid stretching distance. The friendly barman shows me how to make his signature cocktail: I muddle a halfpear, add rosemary-infused gin, lime juice and a dash of Prosecco. Though it’s dubbed “The Last Cocktail,” it’s only the evening’s first.
Surrounded by flickering lanterns nestled into the sand and overseen by an eyelash of moon, I sip on sparkling wine. For this romantic dinner, warm Bali lobster with asparagus tips is followed by grain-fed lamb loin with citrus braised fennel and parsnip puree. The luscious Valrhona bitter chocolate gateau comes with Bali vanilla bean ice cream, another home-grown touch. The following morning I learn how to make the Balinese staple sate lilit, or minced fish sate. A market visit beforehand is an option, but I’m content to shape then sample the little morsels of spicy deliciousness. Then poolside, amid a profusion of ruby red hibiscus and Persian pink bougainvillea, I… relax.
Eat Arwana Restaurant This chilled-out restaurant offers succulent seafood plucked fresh from the Indian Ocean; take your pick from the oyster and sushi bars. www. arwanarestaurant.com Kayuputi One of Bali’s best fine-dining restaurants offers stunning ocean views as well as a range of exquisite international and local dishes. For true extravagance, indulge in the champagne brunch. Easily accessible via a Dine Around Service between resorts. www. kayuputirestaurant.com See + Do See the sunset kecak dance at cliffside Uluwatu temple. Go fishing, windsurfing, snorkelling, scuba diving or kayaking from Nusa Dua beach. See the concierge at The Laguna to arrange.
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Three young monks in Kep.
drive
Southern Comfort
Covering everything from barefoot island luxury to sleepy colonial charmers, Cambodia’s southern reaches are developing all the magical ingredients for an epic road trip. By Duncan Forgan
A garden bed at Song Saa resort.
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Yamamoto uses In the depths of the Gen Cambodian jungle, ingredients, there are things that golocal bump in the like tomatoes from night… and things thatShizuoka, go bump to in liven the morning, like the ominous up thuds that cocktails. are suddenly sounding on the underside of our boat. We are puttering our way along the Kampot River towards the Teuk Chhou Rapids, around 8 kilometers from the center of the charmingly somnolent little town. Once there, we will swim in crystal-clear pools, sway gently in riverside hammocks, and receive free skin-removal treatments from fussing, matronly monkeys. As the boat passes underneath a clump of coconut palms that jut out almost horizontally over the tranquil water, a loud disturbance beneath the craft becomes obvious. “There aren’t crocodiles in here, are there?” a fellow passenger asks nervously. “No, the boat just ran over some discarded coconut husks,” laughs Wee, our captain, as the boat steadies and continues to cruise upriver. The boat’s unhurried yet sure progress is mirrored by the development of a cohesive tourism infrastructure along Cambodia’s southern coast. Boutique boltholes, eco-lodges and exclusive resorts dot the region all the way from Koh Kong in the west to Kep in the east. It is now therefore possible to chart a highly amenable course all the way from the Thai border to Cambodia’s southern frontier with Vietnam. The west to east route takes in the pristine jungle of Koh Kong, untouched islands in the Gulf of Thailand off the coast of Sihanoukville, the lazy colonial vibe of Kampot, crustaceanoriented culinary manna of Kep, and even the lively town of Sihanoukville. Although it may sound like a journey of epic proportions, the distance between Cambodia’s two southern frontiers is just a sliver of more than 250 kilometers. Hire a private car in the capital of Phnom Penh and on a leisurely drive you can hit all the main stops in about a week. Our time is limited to just five days, so we decide to eschew Koh Kong and make directly for Sihanoukville, a three-and-a-half hour ride from Phnom Penh, for some beach ➔
Photographed by Aaron Joel Santos
Best Beachfront Location in Kuta The Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel enjoys a private beachfront location in Kuta, north of the Ngurah Rai International Airport. With 318 modern rooms, suites and villas, guests can rest in comfort and experience Balinese hospitality with international service standard. The hotel caters to leisure and business travellers alike with its 7 restaurants and bars, 9 function spaces, spa, fitness centre, spacious sculptured pool, and helipad. The hotel is adjacent to the Discovery Shopping Mall and a 10-minute walk to Central Kuta.
Managed by Discovery Hotels & Resorts Jl. Kartika Plaza, South Kuta Beach 80361, Bali, Indonesia Tel. +62 361 751067 Fax. +62 361 752475, 754585 reservation@discoverykartikaplaza.com www.discoverykartikaplaza.com
Radar Knai Bang Chatt in Kep.
Fish amok, a local specialty.
Bridge to Song Saa resort. Fishermen compare crabs.
Children play in Sihanoukville.
bumming before making our way along the coast to sample the subdued charms of Kampot and Kep. A favorite with budget travelers due to its frequent parties and cheap accommodation, Sihanoukville isn’t for everyone. Those seeking more refined respite will find sanctum at its quietest and most paradisiacal stretch of sand, Otres Beach, where Tamu (tamucambodia.com; doubles from US$80) and Secret Garden (secretgardenotres.com; bungalows from US$59) are the best of the boutiques. Also a world removed from the full-moon party scene is the string of islands that stud the Gulf of Thailand just offshore. Outposts such as Koh Russei, Koh Ta Kiev, Koh Rung and Koh Rung Samloem are easily reachable from Sihanoukville by ferry and offer an untouched island idyll with long stretches of white-sand beach backing 70
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onto makeshift digs situated amidst jungle clearings. Luxury resorts are in the pipeline, especially on Koh Rung, but for the moment the islands retain a rustic, castaway feel with bungalows and fresh seafood providing shelter and sustenance. If you are short on time and have money to spare you could spend a couple of nights at Song Saa (songsaa. com; villas from US$1,649 all-inclusive). Occupying two diminutive islands at the far end of Koh Rung, the 27-villa development, which is reachable from Sihanoukville via the resort’s own speedboat, justifies its hefty allinclusive price tag, and continues to snare regular awards. As I toast the completion of a swim around one of the two islands with a mojito sundowner mixed with the resort’s homemade lemongrass vodka, I find it hard to fault the experts.
Back on land, we leave Sihanoukville behind and continue our odyssey eastwards on the twohour drive to Kampot. Even at full pelt it is impossible not to be lulled by the languorous rhythms of Cambodian country life passing by outside the window. As kilometers fly underwheel, flocks of egrets use water buffalo as launching pads towards the blue sky and giant river fish are hung out to cure outside roadside restaurants. In Kampot, we spend one night at the Two Moons (twomoonshotel.com; penthouse from US$62), a great new value option where accommodations range from comfortable bungalows to a sumptuous penthouse room with 360-degree views of the river and the nearby Elephant Mountains. Kampot’s main claim to fame is its sought-after pepper, regarded as being among the finest in the world due to its complex ➔
Radar flavor and fragrant aroma. The town’s other attributes are just as pleasing. After a day of river-based action at the Teuk Chhou Rapids, we make the 30-minute hop to Kep. Like Kampot, Kep is about as fast-paced as a Sunday morning and just as enchanting. During its heyday as Cambodia’s premier beach town, it was the favored place for R&R of the Khmer elite, including the late King Norodom Sihanouk. His namesake Sihanoukville usurped it as the nation’s sun, sea and sand capital prior to Cambodia’s civil war and the years of turmoil and bloodshed saw it slink back even further into obscurity—the shells of its grand old villas the only reminder of its starring role on the Cambodian Riviera. Despite its torpor (or perhaps because of it) there’s something about Kep that entrances. The gentle sea breeze is invigorating while a string of boutique hotels, including the wonderful Knai Bang Chatt
A street vendor in Kep.
(knaibangchatt.com; doubles from US$132), have sprung up since the middle of the last decade, breathing new life to the derelict grand old villas. There’s also the town’s crab market. A one-time secret, it has become a prime destination for in-the-know gourmands due to its clutch of ramshackle restaurants’ way with crab served with local Kampot green pepper. With the ocean providing a lulling soundtrack, we head to Kimly (Kep crab market; 855/8982-2866; dinner for two US$20), one of the best regarded of the town’s crab restaurants. We descend into a food trance, devouring a mountain of crustaceans and leaving an apocalyptic scene of discarded shells in our wake. Drunk on seafood and reeling in relaxation, it’s a fitting end to the hypnotic journey. Yes, it may be our last evening on the road, but Cambodia’s dreamy pace has rubbed off on us and we’re in no hurry to leave. The night is still young and another plate of crab beckons. ✚
Getting Around You can hire a private car and an English-speaking driver for US$50 a day through Lyna Car Rental (855/1292-4517; lyna-carrental.com), located in Phnom Penh’s city center. Alternatively, you can ask reception at each hotel you visit along the way to arrange car service piecemeal for every leg of the journey. This could save you about US$200—but the drivers may not speak English and you lose the security of working with an established service.
A 24/7 ESCAPE. TRANQUIL BY DAY. ELECTRIC BY NIGHT. SITUATED BETWEEN MAENAM AND BO PHUT, IT HAS THE FINEST AND MOST PRISTINE BEACH LOCATION IN THAILAND, OVERLOOKING STUNNING BEACHES AND LUSH FORESTS, W RETREAT KOH SAMUI AWAKENS AS THE SUN GOES DOWN, IGNITING THE UNEXPECTED. ILLUMINATING.. ENVIRONS. TAKE IT EASY. SURROUNDED BY VERDANT FOLIAGE, EACH OF OUR 74 PRIVATE-POOL RETREATS BOASTS A PRIVATE OUTDOOR POOL AND INFINITE ISLAND VIEWS. INSIDE, PREMIER TECHNOLOGY MEETS W SIGNATURE BED, BLISS® SPA AMENITIES AND WHATEVER/WHENEVER® SERVICE. W RETREAT KOH SAMUI T 66 77 915 999 / F 66 77 915 998 EXPLORE WHAT’S NEW / NEXT WRETREATKOHSAMUI.COM WHOTELS.COM/KOHSAMUI
Radar t+l p i c ks
Classy Castaways
Sugar-white sands, sea breeze-tousled palms and maybe even a private submarine— these are the kinds of islands on which we’d like to be marooned. By Diana Hubbell maldives
burma
seychelles
malaysia
The Brando The Godfather himself bought this piece of paradise while scouting locations for Mutiny on the Bounty. For more than 50 years, Tetiaroa island was the star’s place to get away from it all, and now you too can escape to the 35-villa resort, opening this month. thebrando. com; villas from €1,800 per night, all-inclusive.
Velaa Private Island Take a break from a hard day at the champagne lounge or golf academy to cruise the Indian Ocean in either a traditional Maldivian bahtheli boat or the resort’s two-bedroom yacht. Then explore the underwater world on a private submarine tour of Noonu Atoll. velaa privateisland.com; villas from US$1,500.
Myanmar Andaman Resort Through perhaps more more rustic than luxe, the first PADI-certified resort in Burma offers superb diving in the pristine waters of the Andaman and trekking through the jungles of Macleod Island. myanmarandaman resort.com; three-night packages from US$1,068 (US$356 per night).
Enchanted Island Resort A mere 10 villas, each with its own infinity pool, adorn this 2-hectare speck of sand in Sainte Anne Marine Park. Not a single tree was chopped in construction—yet another thing to feel good about as you sip cocktails at the Castaway Bar. jaresortshotels.com; villas from US$749.
Gem Island Resort & Spa This eco-oasis in the heart of a marine conservation park is just the spot to kick back after a day of kayaking, diving or checking out the turtle sanctuary. gemisland. com.my; two-night packages from RM1,700 (RM850 per night), double, inclusive of some meals and activities. ✚
COURTESY OF THE BR ANDO
tahiti
The Brando opens this month.
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Radar d i s c ov e r y
A Dash of Drama
The larger-than-life Chinese seaport of Dalian has one of the world’s longest boardwalks and the biggest city square. Gabrielle Jaffe suggests you dally a while.
The Castle opens in Dalian this summer.
For those who prefer their coastlines with a dash of drama, Dalian happily obliges. This coastal city in northern China is perched on the end of a peninsula running parallel with Korea. On its southeastern flank, the Yellow Sea has carved out an imposing shoreline where tall cliffs and rocky outcrops meet the water. Here, a wooden pathway cuts across the cypress-clad headland, stretching out for 32 kilometers, making it one of the longest continuous boardwalks in the world. It’s an ideal destination for
those who think a trip to the seaside means striking vistas and brisk, salty air, not topping up tans; rather than Bali, think Brighton, England. This summer sees the opening of an accommodation that manages to be just as theatrical as the scenery.
Positioned at the western end of the boardwalk, The Castle (luxurycollection.com; Mountain View rooms from RMB3,900, Deluxe Ocean View rooms from RMB4,500) lives up to its name. Its exterior sports turrets and crenelated walls, and the interior is pure opulence: a well-appointed spa and pool, marble finishes, silks, chandeliers and an elegant glass atrium that floods the grand lobby with light. From atop the enormous terrace on the fifth floor, known as the
beach overlooking Bangchui Island, which glows golden in the afternoon sun. Until the 1980’s, this spot was reserved for top communist cadres only. Today the RMB20 entrance fee continues to keep the crowds away. So if you’re looking for company, head to the Fisherman’s Wharf, a harbor halfway along the boardwalk that’s been transformed into a trendy outpost with pastel-colored, Northern European-style buildings, cafés and seafood restaurants. Don’t miss Hemaolong (58-9-5 Marina Drive, Fisherman’s Wharf; 86-411/8631-2288; dinner for RMB200), where abalone,
yellow croaker and other fruits of the sea are barbecued in northeastern Chinese flavors or simply steamed to preserve their fresh taste. Grab a coffee and watch the world go by at one of the charming cafés along the southern end of the beachside Xinghai Park, or stroll to nearby Xinghai Square. Dalian’s residents are very proud of this landscaped, star-shaped plaza, which, at more than one million sprawling square meters, is reported to be the largest in the world. You’ll spot them here practicing tai chi in the evenings and mornings, and flying kites at all times of the day. Dalian’s outdoor spaces might be record-breakingly big, but the locals know how to enjoy them on an intimate scale. ✚
TA O I M A G E S L I M I T E D/G E T T Y I M A G E S
Esplanade, guests can gaze out at the sun setting over the bay as they listen to live bands and quaff glasses of champagne or home-brewed German beer from the adjoining Royal Cellar Bar (drinks for two RMB150). When the fog rolls in, take a relaxed hour-long hike to the top of Lotus Mountain behind the hotel, for a bird’s-eye view of the misty scene. At the other end of the boardwalk is the Bangchuidao Scenic Area. Here verdant hills transmute into a sandy
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Island Fantasy
P
The discreet charms of the classic, East Coast–elitestyle summer vacation—Devin Friedman finds his inner WASP on Martha’s Vineyard.
eople are always going on vacation and putting on a straw sombrero and drinking a beer and feeling relaxed and saying, You know what, this is the real me. But that’s not the real you. The real you isn’t the person who is totally stress-free and good-humored and loves to make funny rum cocktails for people he barely knows, who thinks that version of herself embroiled in the careerist rat race is an impostor, who says If I just never came home and instead opened a bookstore/beach bar/sundress emporium here and bought a characterbuilding chapeau I could spend the rest of my days being the real me. Somewhere deep inside the folds of our cortexes, we know that (1) we’re never going to move here and buy the hat and the bookstore and that (2) if we did, the old us would come and take the ferry over and hunt us down by the smell of our fear and aftershave and climb back into our bodies again and make us anxious and ambitious and moneyconscious just the way we always were.
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Getting to not be you for two weeks is what it’s all about anyway. One of the great unsung joys of going on vacation is that you get to be a poseur. So my feeling is, pose like crazy, enjoy it, then hide the pictures of you in the hat. Now, what kind of poseur you’re going to be is governed by what the fantasy of your vacation is. Maybe you’re going to spend a week in fingerless gloves acting like a Parisian bohemian, or like someone perpetually with a surfboard and a wet suit half-peeled off, or like a Tuscan vintner or a Russian oligarch who buys bottles of champagne for Eastern European women with tiny cigarettes. Those are all worthy poses to strike; I’ve tried them myself. But my vibe lately is the vacationing WASP. First because I personally have kind of an attraction/ repulsion WASP fetish, having grown up as a hippie, broke-ish, Marxist, mongrel Jew in a preppy little town filled with blond families I resented but secretly wanted to be adopted by. But also because they have this amazing way of vacationing. Very
laid-back, very chino-y, very slumming it, but with great drinks served early on the most prime real estate in the world. Beachy but not string bikini, drunk but not with Red Bull, the type of vacationing done by people with family compounds that are proudly like aging summer camps. If the ethos of the WASP vacation could be summed up by something you could hold in your fist, it would be: the lobster roll. It puts on no airs. Except that it’s, you know, lobster. In my humble opinion, the optimal place to go full WASP for two weeks is Martha’s Vineyard. Sure, there are other East Coast preppy places. But Maine is too in-actual-fact rustic and remote. Nantucket is too for-real Waspy, which is interesting, anthropologically, but poses some problems for people who are freaked out by men who wear red pants without a hint of irony. East Hampton has come to embody forces passionately opposed by the WASP (canary yellow Lambos; Jason Binn). But Martha’s Vineyard is beautiful, rustic, understated, and Waspy without being closed and clubby. And while each town on the island embodies its own subtle take on the WASP vacation mentality, I prefer the fantasy to be had in the area known as “up-Island.” Up-Island is opposite, geographically and mentally, from the busy towns of Oak Bluffs and Edgartown. Up-Island comprises the towns of Aquinnah, West Tisbury and Chilmark, including the village of Menemsha. I mean, it’s all right there in those names. It says: put on a bucket hat and some white stuff on your nose, drive an old beater that belies your wealth and head over to Squibnocket beach for a bracing swim in the surf before retiring home again for a pitcher of Madrases. (If you don’t know, a Madras is a drink favored by wealthy people with boats but no feelings, and is made with vodka and orange juice, ➔
I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y K E L S E Y D A K E
Point of View
Point of View with cranberry juice floated on top.) It’s all grazing pastures and stone walls and unmarked dirt roads leading to “key beaches” (your rental house has to come with a key or you can’t go). The homes you see from the road are handsome and certainly pricey but modest in their way (just don’t look for aerial photos of the houses you can’t see from the road; you’ll think, Oh, yes, there is extreme wealth here, only they’re hiding it). What’s really incredible, though, is the combination of insanely desirable real estate and obscenely low population density. Up-Island Martha’s Vineyard is perhaps the most breathtaking canvas for that New England Calvinistic austerity— just leave the land beautiful. When you think about the monstrous market forces saying build a hotel or at least a house with a helipad, you are
A corollary of that Calvinistic simplicity: there’s this little hippie commune thing going on up-Island. You can see it at the West Tisbury Farmers’ Market, where fresh-faced college students who spent the summer pulling turnips are working the stands. There’s a whole back-tothe-land vibe at the Tea Lane Farm and the Mermaid Farm Dairy (the most insane feta cheese you will ever taste) and the farm and flower stands. You can hardly drive up-Island without passing an unattended honor-system farm stand (take what you like and leave money) of the kind that hardly exists anywhere else now. I suppose there are people who come here and live among the weathered shingles and farms and think they’re keeping it real. But that’s not what’s going on. Up-Island Martha’s Vineyard is no more real than the Paris section of Las Vegas, except that the structures are actually old and reflect a culture that once was. It is a kingdom under glass. That’s what’s fascinating about Martha’s Vineyard: it is both real and fake. A facsimile of something that also happens to be the authentic version. But the best thing about Martha’s Vineyard is that it’s by far the most accepting place to be a WASP poseur. It’s historically the place all kinds of non-WASPs come to pretend to be WASPs: black people famously like to vacation here, and Jews, and presidents and nouveaux riches who don’t want to act like jackasses. So there’s that. You don’t have to worry about being found out. You can just enjoy the quietude and lobster rolls and quahog chowder and arguing over who can acquiesce and give the right of way more quickly and happily when two cars meet each other on one of those dirt tracks. I don’t care if I’m not really one of them. As long as I get a parking space at the beach I’m pretty happy. ✚
THE QUIET OF NO MASERATIS, OF NO OBNOXIOUS MEN BUYING US$300 BURGUNDY. THE QUIET OF GOOD MANNERS.
faced with another quality of New England old money: restraint. Along with wide, desolate beaches, imperturbably temperate weather, actual fishermen you can say hi to and act like you’re friends with while they sell you swordfish they literally just took off the boat (try Larsen’s, in Menemsha), it’s that restraint that gives up-Island Martha’s Vineyard its WASP magic. You will notice that restraint in the special register of quiet that pervades the island. The quiet of no Maseratis, of no obnoxious men buying US$300 Burgundy at the Beach Plum (best restaurant on the island—no liquor license). The quiet not just of windswept dunes nestled by heather and kettle ponds surrounded by scrub pine, but the quiet of good manners. As you drive up-Island, past Tea Lane Farm or the road leading to Black Point Beach, you can almost hear the quiet of being raised right (you know who complains loudly at restaurants? The nouveaux riches) hissing from your tires.
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Most simultaneous check-ins on Foursquare
2,398, on Dec. 31, 2013
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Total num be r of Instagra m photos ta g ge d #nakedco w b oy
11,636*
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THE 2014 WINNERS Our Social Media in Travel and Tourism Awards
A few o f t he busiest places around Times Square , ac to Fours cording quare
Starbu c Shake ks, Shack, W New York
lion l i m 5 . 5
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by Amy Farley
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The most talked-ab ou t Times Sq uare attra ction on Twitte r in the pa st year Sp
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SOCIAL HUB
Social media has permeated nearly every aspect of travel—whether it’s crowdsourcing hotel suggestions or showcasing photos of your 26-course meal at Noma. Here, a look at some of the interactions inspired by one of the world’s most shareable destinations: New York City’s Times Square.
FOR SEVEN SOCIAL MEDIA TRAVEL TIPS, TURN TO PAGE 88. *Numbers accurate at press time.
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The Fix
offer reclining rather than standard seats in their premium-economy, or “fourth class,” cabins. Of course, there are usually other perks with premiumeconomy tickets, like early boarding, priority check-in and better luggage allowances, but it’s best to check first with individual airlines as the benefits vary widely. With so many airlines in Asia offering premium-economy seats, now you can compare prices on the same routes. Air China, Air New Zealand, ANA, Cathay Pacific, JAL, Philippine Airlines and Qantas all offer fourth class these days.
WHAT’S YOUR PROBLEM? MY FLIGHT IS LATE AND I’M GOING TO MISS MY CRUISE!
Do...
Call the cruise line.
In cases where many passengers are late, the ship’s departure may be postponed.
Don’t...
Weighing the price tag
IS PREMIUM ECONOMY WORTH IT?
Thinking of upgrading your ticket to those extra-legroom seats at the front of the main cabin? That’s exactly what your airline wants you to do. In the past few years, carriers across the globe have been rolling out more of these stepped up economy seats, even as they cram more people farther back in the cabin. Whether you take the bait will depend on how much you’re willing to spend—and how much you just can’t stand the back of the plane. The seat itself
First, consider the quality of the seat. This means both the seat pitch—the room between you and the seat in front of you; and seat width—the area between the armrests. Around 84
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Asia, seat pitch in premiumeconomy cabins ranges from 35 to 42 inches, the most space available on Japan Airlines’ B777-300ER. Seat width, unfortunately, doesn’t range upwards as much, averaging 18 to 19 inches, though several Air New Zealand and China Southern aircraft better those numbers. As a general rule, look for carriers flying newer planes like the B787, namely Air New Zealand and All Nippon Airways, which often
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
It might be a result of the premium economy cabin having made its first foothold in North America and Europe, but trans-Atlantic flights are more likely to see discounts than routes across the Pacific. According to seatguru.com, premium-economy fares across the Atlantic are generally 85 percent more expensive than standard economy fares, though the price drops drastically—occasionally down to as little as 10 percent—closer to the departure date. Over the Pacific Ocean, premium-
Kiss your trip goodbye. It may be
possible to meet your ship at the next port of call as early as the next day.
Do...
Get your money back. If you have
Missed Connection insurance, you can be reimbursed for a flight to the next port or your entire voyage.
Don’t...
by the numbers
7.5%
Increase in the number of Virgin Atlantic passengers flying Premium Economy from 2012 to 2013. S O U R C E : V I R G I N AT L A N T I C
Be a gambler.
Next time, arrive at your embarkation city a day or two early so you’re not rushing to the ship from the airport.
I L L U S T R AT I O N S , F R O M L E F T: J A V I E R J A É N ; B E N W I S E M A N (4)
Q+A
Have a question for T+L’s Trip Doctor? Send it to tripdoctor@ travelandleisureasia.com Follow @TravLeisureAsia on Twitter.
economy seats are around 95 percent more expensive than standard seats and the price doesn’t vary as much, according to the website. Premium-economy prices are generally 65 percent less than business-class fares, though the business cabin offers many more perks. On shorter flights within Asia, the price variations are as wide ranging as your ability to uncover a good deal. Booking a Cathay Pacific return flight from Hong Kong to Singapore this month will turn up a standard-economy fare of HK$5,320, with that premium-
by the numbers
721
$
Average price difference between economy and premium economy tickets in U.S. dollars for a round-trip Cathay Pacific flight from Los Angeles to Hong Kong, booked at least three months in advance. AC C O R DI N G TO T+L T ES TS AT P R ES S T I M E
economy seat costing almost 30 percent more, at HK$7,540, and a spot in the business cabin an astronomic HK$17,480. It’s worth noting that a last-minute booking only offered discounts on the least-expensive economy-class booking for the same flights. Best in class
Offering more than just a few extra inches of seat pitch, premium economy on a few stand out international carriers is an entirely different experience. For example, British Airways’ World Traveller Plus seats from New York City to London are in a curtained-off section that has a dedicated crew; wider, plusher seats with more legroom; and business-class meals.A recent search found tickets for as little as US$468 extra, round-trip. On a similar Virgin Atlantic flight, the roomy, leather Premium Economy seats (which include dedicated check-in and bag- drop services) were US$540 more. That’s a significant outlay, but you’d pay more than six times as much to upgrade to
business class. It’s also worth noting that for US$4,201, the comparable premium-economy ticket on American Airlines would have cost roughly double those of its U.K. competitors. Other European carriers with excellent premiumeconomy cabins include Air France (wool blankets; feather pillows) and Turkish Airways (a whopping 48-inch seat pitch). Lufthansa’s new seats— with seven more inches of legroom than in economy— launch in November (available to book now). The most tempting time to splurge, of course, is on long-haul flights to Asia and beyond, which is why airlines such as Cathay Pacific, JAL, ANA, Air New Zealand and Qantas have lavished so much attention (and money) on these seats. It shows. Air New Zealand’s extra-wide, podlike Spaceseats put many businessclass cabins to shame. They can cost up to US$2,000 more than an economy ticket from Los Angeles to Auckland. But those 13 hours in flight will feel pretty darn good.
WHY DO AIRPLANES DIM LIGHTS ON TAKEOFF? Lowering cabin lights and raising window shades are standard safety measures during takeoff and landing—the most critical moments of every flight. The dim lighting allows passengers’ eyes to adjust more quickly during an emergency evacuation. As Chris Cooke, a pilot with a major American carrier, puts it: “Imagine being in an unfamiliar bright room filled with obstacles when someone turns off the lights and asks you to exit quickly.” The raised window shades bring natural light into the cabin, just in case it’s needed.
THE FINAL SAY
WHAT SHOULD I LOOK FOR IN A SUNSCREEN?
Find one that’s between SPF 30 and 50 (anything higher protects only incrementally more) and has UVA and UVB protection, says Dr. Doris Day, a New York City dermatologist and author of Forget the Facelift. Broad-spectrum coverage makes the lotion more stable, so it will last longer in the sun—though Day still advises applying every two hours. For a tropical getaway, go for a water-resistant formula (there’s no such thing as waterproof). As for which form of sunscreen to choose: “It’s a matter of personal preference between a gel, cream, wipe, powder, spray or lotion,” Day says. “They’re equally effective.” And don’t forget a hat, sunglasses and protective or SPF-treated clothing. T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
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Packing
by Mimi Lombardo
Q+A
I NEED A PACKABLE HAT FOR MY UPCOMING TRIP TO THE PHILIPPINES. ANY SUGGESTIONS? A sun hat is a travel necessity, but can be a hassle to fit in your suitcase. Try any one of these practical—and great-looking—toppers that fold, roll or squish for easy stashing.
Soft cotton bucket hat packs flat and offers optimum breathability. $210, Moncler.
This synthetic straw hat can be rolled up and tucked into your bag. $150, Eric Javits.
I’m tired of paying for pricey hotel laundry service. Any tips for on-the-road alternatives? —sarah taurus, via e-mail For basic pieces, take matters into your own hands: bring along one of our picks for travel-friendly detergents.
Reversible cotton and a removable strap make a lightweight two-for-one option. $620, Louis Vuitton.
Crushable straw fedora with UPF 50+ shields against harmful rays. $35, Physician Endorsed.
Cotton blend trilby won’t lose its shape after a good scrunching. $250, Missoni.
Dissolvable detergent sheets from Sea to Summit won’t spill on the go —just add a few to a sinkful of water. $3.95 for 50 sheets; pictured above. Lewis N. Clark’s Laundry Kit includes a drain stopper and eight travel-size portions of Woolite. $4.99. Forever New fabric wash is formulated for washing by hand and comes in a space-saving mini bottle. $3.50.
Prices throughout are listed in US dollars.
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P HOTOG R A P H ED BY YASU + JU N KO
MARK ET EDITOR: COURTNE Y K ENEFICK
Foldable raffia fedora with internal drawstring for a snug fit. $52, Wallaroo Hat Company.
Strategies
The Smart Traveler’s Guide to Social Media ire: Wilsh an. verly @Be ving Itali ra I’m c tions for a? s re e g g u the a Any s spot in ncierge d o o C o g W B a gr y # #hun
I : Can shire tment il W verly poin @Be 4:00 ap BWSpa? a # b oo k g e a t t h e t h e ! s s a e t we e n a Help m for a choose b Tissue.… p Can’t h or Dee is S we d
Concierge service on Twitter. Bespoke itineraries via Pinterest. Travel deals on Facebook and Foursquare. Increasing your digital know-how is the key to upgrading your next vacation. Here, seven ways to reap the benefits. By Amy Chen. Edited by Nikki Ekstein Plus The winners of Travel + Leisure’s Social Media in Travel and Tourism (SMITTY) awards, selected by our jury of digital insiders.
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COURTESY OF FOUR SE ASONS HOTELS & RESORTS
e at oolsid out p ire & g in Hang erlyWilsh yWoman tt v @Be wn #Pre blebrag y o ohu m m g havin nt. #nots e mom
Strategies
Looking for a social media tutorial? Find tips from this year’s SMITTY jurors at tandl.me/TLBLOG.
No. 2
Just landed in Singapore. @FansofChangi makes a great first impression! #ChangiHello
PLUS
Get faster customer service.
2014 Winners
Whether you’re unsure about a flight status or stuck in a noisy hotel room, social media managers are trained to resolve your concerns or funnel them to someone who can. (Witness the response of @DeltaAssist, which rebooked passengers stranded after storms swept the U.S. Northeast last winter.) Below, a by-thenumbers look at the average response times for the most attentive travel companies on Twitter—according to industry news site Skift.*
best use of instagram Tahiti Tourisme North America @TahitiTourism Love a good beach shot? So do the 17,000-plus Instagrammers who “liked” Tahiti’s images last year.
best use of facebook Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts @FourSeasons On display: stunning hotel photos, tips from Four Seasons chefs, and more.
AIRPORTS
No. 1
Score free perks. What’s even more valuable than a loyal customer? One who’s eager to spread the word. That’s why travel brands are recognizing social sharers with a little extra VIP treatment. Virgin Atlantic has dispatched flight attendants in taxis to bring travelers to the airport when they couldn’t hail a cab; Kimpton has gone viral on Twitter for delivering soup to T+L Tip Want the sick-in-bed guests. But it’s up to you freebies to come to to start the conversation. A you? Leverage your Fairmont guest who raved about Klout score, a marker of social influence the brand’s Le Labo toiletries (available at klout. was rewarded with samples sent com). Last year, to her home. At Singapore’s Changi American Airlines Airport, lucky passengers who offered free admission tweeted to @FansofChangi with to its Admirals Clubs the hashtag #ChangiHello were for anyone with a score of 55 or higher. surprised with gate-side goody bags.
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@Airport_FRA (Frankfurt): 38 minutes @FlyTPA (Tampa): 70 minutes @TorontoPearson: 76 minutes HOTEL BRANDS
@HyattConcierge: 41 minutes @Westin: 53 minutes @SheratonHotels: 54 minutes *Based on 60-day averages of activity on Twitter, according to skift.com data. All figures accurate at press time.
T+L Tip Don’t go overboard. “Reaching out through more than one channel will multiply our efforts to assist that customer, and can inadvertently slow things down,” says Rob Hahn, Southwest Airlines’ team leader for Customer Advocacy and Social Media.
best use of twitter Virgin Atlantic @VirginAtlantic When locals in target cities tweeted about a bad day, the airline dispatched crew members to cheer them up. runner-up The RitzCarlton Hotel Company @RitzCarlton best use of pinterest VisitBritain @VisitBritain Using Pinterest’s Place Pins, the U.K. tourism board created a series of regional maps featuring must-see sights. runner-up Explore Georgia @ExploreGeorgia best use of tumblr VisitSweden @VisitSweden VisitSweden has turned its Tumblr into a ready-to-share, ultravisual pressroom. runner-up Sofitel Luxury Hotels @SofitelNews
F R O M L E F T: D A R R E N S O H ; C O U R T E S Y O F TA H I T I T O U R I S M E N O R T H A M E R I C A
AIRLINES
@AmericanAir: 12 minutes @IndiGo6E: 16 minutes @flyPAL: 44 minutes
Nestled in a stunning cover overlooking the Gulf of Siam our beachfront haven is a perfect getaway to unique and authentic experiences.
LIFE IS A COLLECTION OF EXPERIENCES LET US BE YOUR GUIDE theluxurycollection.com/vanabelle
©2013–2014 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, The Luxury Collection and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates. For full terms & conditions visit theluxurycollection.com/vanabelle
Strategies
No. 4
Shape the next great travel innovation.
Guests have long wielded power over travel companies with the impact of their online reviews (look no further than Yelp and TripAdvisor’s combined 200 million user-generated assessments). These days, the feedback loop is evolving, as hotels, airlines and developers canvass for input before debuting new products and services— allowing travelers to sculpt new experiences. Real estate company Prodigy Network took the most direct approach this spring, US$50,000 crowdsourcing design concepts and technological innovations in The total prize a generously funded competition earnings in that will inform a hotel in Prodigy Network’s New York City’s Financial crowdsourced District. Similarly, Marriott asked hotel competition. the public to suggest innovative hotel services as part of its Travel Brilliantly campaign; the winner, a healthy-food-on-demand concept, will soon be piloted at one of the brand’s properties. Guests weigh in on smaller decisions, too: Omni Hotels & Resorts has polled its Facebook fans to create the most appealing package deals, while National Car Rental and JetBlue have developed mobile apps with help from their online communities.
Unlock exclusive deals. Hotels are using social media channels to foster loyalty and generate direct bookings— offering as much as 50 percent off via Twitter and Facebook. Not to be outdone, booking engines such as Orbitz and Expedia are responding with deals of their own. Travelocity has offered US$150 off package deals on Facebook, for instance, and this past Mother’s Day, Priceline gave an extra 10 percent off any Name Your Own Price deal with a special code shared on Facebook and Twitter. The bottom line: always check a company’s social network pages before finalizing your reservation. T+L Tip Checking in on Foursquare can unlock even deeper discounts. Hertz regularly uses the platform to offer 20 percent off rental-car bookings.
No. 5
Gain early access to the concierge.
Three ways to get personalized service without the face-to-face request. ON PINTEREST
ON TWITTER
fON FACEBOOK
With the new Pin.Pack.Go program from Four Seasons, guests can create inspiration boards on the Pinterest site or app before their trip and invite their hotel’s concierge to collaborate. Within 48 hours, they’ll receive “pinned” restaurant recommendations, shopping suggestions, and more—all based on the items they’ve selected.
Not sure where to look for last-minute theater tickets? Try tweeting @HyattConcierge. A round-the-clock team of nearly three dozen employees monitors the handle and sends requests to staffers on site, keeping guests updated while they wait. The average response time? Forty-two minutes.
Kimpton guests who are looking for gluten-free restaurant options or noteworthy local concerts can take their questions to Facebook, where an online concierge team awaits. For the best result, send a private message rather than a public wall post—staffers typically respond within 24 hours.
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best chat/hangout Residence Inn by Marriott @ResidenceInn Proving its commitment to equality, the brand threw a Twitter chat for LGBT travelers embarking on adoption-related trips. best long-form video tie Virgin America @VirginAmerica With Step Up 2 director Jon Chu on board, the airline transformed its inflight safety tutorial into a Hollywood-worthy music video.
tie WestJet @WestJet Hidden cameras captured the holiday cheer when WestJet anonymously delivered Christmas presents—straight off passengers’ wish lists— from the luggage carousel.
best use of foursquare or other locationbased service tie The Hertz Corporation @Hertz Hertz offered Foursquare discounts to passengers checking in at select airports. tie Hilton Hotels & Resorts @HiltonHotels To cure “vacationitis,” Hilton’s term for unused vacation days, the brand created pop-up messaging on Foursquare, inviting travelers to “use it or lose it” when checking in at train stations and office buildings. tie Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts @FourSeasons As part ➔
COURTESY OF VIRGIN AMERICA
No. 3
T
ime passes swiftly at this luxury island resort.
When you’re on one of the Andaman Sea’s most beautiful islands, time can be so precious. Unobstructed breathtaking sunrises and sunsets beckon daily at Racha Yai’s lookouts, a short trek from The Racha. The resort’s PADI Five-Star Racha Dive Center delivers unique diving experiences in one of the world’s premier underwater destinations. all 85 luxurious villas feature private terraces and come appointed with every modern convenience.
On land, three ozonated pools cooled by ocean breezes, an award-winning spa, ATV adventures, Thai boxing, yoga lessons, Thai cooking classes are just some of the facilities and activities designed to keep you entertained. Alternatively, there’s the luxury of simply watching the world go by. www.theracha.com
X O
P R I VAT E
Enjoy your 3rd night free with every 2 paid nights (Pool Villa Free Nights Hot Deals) for selected pool villas*. For stays until 31st October 2014 at www.theracha.com.
A menber of Small Luxury Hotels of the World
• T H E R A C H A I S P R O U D TO B E A NO M I N E E I N T H E W OR L D L U X U R Y HOT E L AWA R D S 2 0 1 4 • 85 luxurious villas • 3 ozonated pools (excluding private ones) • 3 signature dining establishments & bar
world-acclaimed anumba spa • club del mar for chilling • personalized sea and land experiences • to-die-for-views complimentary tel: 66 76 355 455 fax: 66 76 355 637 email: reservation@theracha.com www.theracha.com In accordance with Thai law, all beaches in Thailand are open to the public. * terms & conditions apply
Strategies of the new Pin.Pack.Go program, guests can use Pinterest to cocreate itineraries with a concierge.
No. 6
Get your 15 minutes of fame— or a free vacation. Call it the Warhol effect: When Marriott’s new millennial-focused Moxy brand debuts in Milan this September, a flagship feature will be its Instagram wall, a floor-to-ceiling installation of guests’ best snapshots. Virgin America has beamed Instagram pics tagged with #myVXexperience onto billboards in Times Square; W Hotels created a pop-up art gallery dedicated to their guests’ best mobile images. Even better: at Sydney’s 1888 Hotel, users with 10,000-plus followers can score a free night’s stay (in addition to having their photos featured in the lobby), while Australia’s Hamilton Island actively scouts digital “influencers,” sending them to the destination on paid trips in exchange for a handful of potentially viral shots.
T+L Tip Your photos can’t go viral unless they’re good. Here, a few pointers from SMITTY juror, photographer and prolific Instagrammer, Cole Rise. • Take advantage of third-party photo-editing apps. They allow you to fine-tune your photographs as a professional would. • Accessorize your phone. Waterproof cases, mounted lenses and extra battery packs help you get the most from your device. • Shoot videos in Instagram directly. The app offers excellent built-in stabilization.
No. 7
Stay on top of breaking news. If you’re worried about a big storm, transportation strike or even political turmoil, you’re likely to get the first scoop through social media—along with advice on what to do. For weather updates, follow @WeatherChannel and your airline. @CNNBreaking and @BBCBreaking have excellent coverage of developing news stories; should uprisings or protests become a concern, the U.S. State Department’s @TravelGov can keep travelers abreast of alerts and warnings worldwide. T+L Tip Follow trending hashtags, which aggregate relevant tweets and surface the latest details. To confirm the legitimacy of Twitter sources, look for blue check marks next to the source’s name (they’re proof of a verified identity).
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T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
best app or technology Roaming Hunger @RoamingHunger This iOS app locates the best food trucks in more than 30 U.S. cities. runner-up The Oberoi, Mumbai @TheOberoiMumbai best blog tie Butterfield & Robinson @ButterfieldTrav The outfitter’s Slow Road blog puts expert staffers in the spotlight, offering global travel tips. tie GrandLife Hotels @GrandLifeHotels The brand’s blog delivers the inside scoop on New York City happenings. best use of social media for public service Montage Hotels & Resorts @MontageHotels Its multi-platform Montage Memory Makers contest awarded five scholarships— and vacations—to teenage humanitarians. runner-up Fairfield Inn & Suites by Marriott @FairfieldHotels best contest/ giveaway The Beaches of Fort Myers & Sanibel @FtMyersSanibel How to share your hometown pride with the masses? Invite five Google Glass Explorers to document the local charms. runner-up South African Tourism @GoToSouthAfrica best use of an emerging platform tie Iceland Travel @IcelandTravelTO The tour operator’s Vine feed showcases geysers, icebergs and Reykjavík’s legendary nightlife.
C O U R T E S Y O F 1888 H O T E L
Loving our Down Under digs. #Sydney #1888Hotel
Strategies
Director Jon Chu—of Virgin America and Step Up fame—offers his best pointers for filming your own viral travel videos at tandl.me/TLBLOG.
SMITTY Jury COLE RISE Travel Photographer
“My go-to Instagram filter? Rise. It adds a ton of warmth, especially for beach and sunset shots.”
ANN TRAN
MIKE DE JESUS
Travel SocialMarketing Strategist
Head of Travel and Tourism, Twitter
ROB TORRES
I like to give each trip a different hashtag—it turns my tweets into a live, social scrapbook that’s easy to revisit.
Managing Director of Travel, Google
RENEE BLODGETT
AL ROKER
Founder and Editor, We Blog the World; CEO, Magic Sauce Media
Cohost and Weatherman, NBC’s Today show
“My social media pet peeve: people who use too many hashtags. My personal maximum? Two per tweet.”
Cofounder and CEO, Gogobot
Cofounder and Head of Content, Skift
ASHLEY PEREZ Senior Editor, BuzzFeed
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best use of social media: independent travel journalist/ blogger Amateur Traveler @AmateurTraveler Its 400plus destination-themed podcasts have been downloaded more than a million times. best use of social media: independent travel photojournalist/ videographer Bohemian Trails @BohemianTrails Blogger Megan Eileen McDonough earned 550,000 Google+ followers—all with strategic sharing and hashtags. runner-up Let’s Get Lost @unagotlost
BEST OVERALL USE OF SOCIAL MEDIA
TRAVIS KATZ JASON CLAMPET
best customer service Hyatt Hotels & Resorts @HyattTweets The Twitterbased @hyattconcierge employs a staff of more than 30 to answer questions for all Hyatt’s guests—24/7. runner-up Austin Convention & Visitors Bureau @VisitAustinTX
airline Virgin Atlantic @VirginAtlantic runner-up All Nippon Airways @ANA_Carrier airport Singapore Changi Airport @FansofChangi runner-up San Francisco International Airport @flySFO attraction Vail Resorts @VailResorts runner-up Rocky
Mountaineer @rmountaineer car-rental agency The Hertz Corporation @Hertz cruise line Princess Cruises @PrincessCruises runner-up MSC Cruises USA @MSCCruisesUSA tourism board/dmo/ marketing association Pure Michigan @PureMichigan runner-up Los Angeles Tourism & Convention Board @discoverLA global hotel or resort chain Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts @FourSeasons runner-up Fairmont Hotels & Resorts @FairmontHotels individual hotel or resort, u.s. Beverly Wilshire, a Four Seasons Hotel @BeverlyWilshire individual hotel or resort, global The Westin Bund Center, Shanghai @WestinShanghai runner-up Ushuaïa Ibiza Beach Hotel @ushuaiaibiza outfitter Big Five Tours & Expeditions @bigfivetours runner-up G Adventures @gadventures travel agency/ota Expedia @Expedia travel resource tie Fathom @FathomWayToGo tie Peek @peek restaurant/food truck/market Sam’s Chowder House @samschowder non-travel-industry company Cubavera/Perry Ellis @Cubavera
CLOCK WISE FROM TOP: COURTESY OF COLE RISE; COURTESY OF T WIT TER; COURTESY OF NBC; CHRISTOPHER MICHEL; COURTESY OF ASHLE Y PEREZ; C O U R T E S Y O F S K I F T; O L I V I E R E Z R AT T Y; C O U R T E S Y O F G O O G L E ; C O U R T E S Y O F A N N T R A N
T+L’s 2014
tie Shangri-La Hotels & Resorts @ShangriLaHotels A campaign on Weibo, China’s largest social network, earned Shangri-La 204 million impressions for its new Jing An hotel.
Deals
T+L RE A D E R S PECI A LS
THIS MONTH’S BEST DEALS From an eclectic art hotel in Southern Australia to a new industrial-chic stay in a historic Thai town, here are a few cool destinations to chill out at during your hot summer. sp ec i a l taiwan nt$16,500 p e r n igh t
Food + Drink SINGAPORE Weekends@So from Sofitel So Singapore (sofitel. com), a historic building with a Karl Lagerfeld-designed emblem. The Deal A stay in a So Cosy room. The Highlights Signature brunch for two at Xperience Restaurant & Bar, consisting of all-you-can-eat appetizers, choices of mains and free-flow Billecart-Salmon champagne; plus the morning-after, all-day breakfast. Cost From S$599, double, through December 31. Savings 60 percent.
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CHINA Weekend Getaway from Kempinski Hotel, Chongqing (kempinski.com), located on the bank of the Yangtze River near central business district. The Deal A stay in a Deluxe room. The Highlight Buffet breakfast for three with free-flow sparkling wine on Saturdays and Sundays; and two half-liter mugs of home-brewed specialty beer from Paulaner Bräuhaus. Cost From RMB715, double, through October 31. Savings 15 percent. TAIWAN Luxury Breaks from the newcomer Mandarin Oriental,
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Taipei (mandarinoriental.com), featuring the city’s most spacious rooms and suites. The Deal Two nights in a Deluxe room. The Highlight NT$2,000 dining or spa credits per day. Cost From NT$33,000 (NT$16,500 per night), double, through September 7. Savings 12 percent. HONG KONG Culinary Experience Package at JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong (jwmarriotthongkong.com), just above Admiralty MTR station in Wanchai. The Deal Two nights in
a Deluxe room. The Highlight Treat your palate with HK$1,000 food and beverage credit per stay. Cost From HK$3,700, double, through August 31. Savings 13 percent. THAILAND Sumptuous Escape with Mezzaluna from Tower Club at lebua (lebua.com), all-suite accommodations with spectacular views of Bangkok’s skyline. The Deal Two nights in a Riverview Tower Club suite. The Highlight Relish a unique rendition of European cuisine infused with Asian flavors with a
C O U R T E S Y O F M A N D A R I N O R I E N TA L , TA I P E I
Ya Ge Cantonese restaurant at Mandarin Oriental, Taipei.
Deals four-course tasting dinner menu at Mezzaluna on the 65th floor. Cost From US$658 (US$329 per night), through August 31. Savings 33 percent.
Culture HONG KONG Explore Package from Hyatt Regency, Tsim Sha Tsui (hongkong. tsimshatsui.hyatt.com), a cosmopolitan hotel atop K11 Art Mall with direct access to two metro stations. The Deal Two nights in a Standard room. The Highlight Your choice of a Hong Kong Island Orientation Tour, a Symphony of Lights Harbour Cruise or a Big Bus Tour of scenic spots. Cost From HK$2,400 (HK$1,200 per night), double, through December 31. Savings 25 percent. CAMBODIA Stay Longer escape from Anantara Angkor Resort & Spa (anantara.com), near Angkor Archaeological Park in Siem Reap. The Deal Four nights in a Deluxe room. The Highlight A 60-minute aromatherapy massage for two. Cost From US$628 (US$157 per night), double, through August 25. Savings 45 percent. AUSTRALIA Schaller Stay & See from The Schaller Studio (artserieshotels.com. au), an artsy boutique inspired by Mark Schaller’s working studio in Bendigo, Victoria. The Deal Two nights in a Workspace Queen room. The Highlight Tickets to the latest exhibitions: The Body Beautiful in Ancient Greece and Undressed: 350 years of underwear in fashion, at Bendigo Art Gallery—plus, a bottle of wine. Cost From AU$350, (AU$175 per night), double, July 19 to November 9. Savings 10 percent.
Outdoors CHINA Summer Golf, Summer Fun at The
Ritz-Carlton, Sanya (ritzcarlton.com), tropical seaside resort in Yalong Bay, also known as the “Oriental Hawaii.” The Deal Three nights in a Deluxe room. The Highlight Three rounds of 18-hole golfing at two clubs: Yalong Bay Golf Club and Sun Valley Sanya Golf Resort. Cost From RMB9,000 (RMB3,000 per night), double, through October 31. Savings 15 percent.
S u pe r S ave r
PHILIPPINES Suite Experience from The Peninsula Manila (manila. peninsula.com), the epitome of sophistication. The Deal Two nights in a Premium suite. The Highlight A culinary journey for two, starting with Asian appetizers at Spices; continuing with Filipino specialties at The Lobby; then rounding out the meal at Escolta. Cost From PHP38,000 (PHP19,000 per night), double, through September 15. Savings 69 percent. MALAYSIA Live Fly & Stay from Berjaya Tioman Resort (berjayahotel.com), the island’s only internationalstandard resort fringed by breathtaking coral reefs. The Deal Three nights in a Superior Chalet room. The Highlight A snorkeling trip at Renggis Island or a jungle trekking tour to a nearby waterfall. Cost From RM3,194 (RM1,597 per night), double, through August 31. Savings 20 percent.
Family BHUTAN Family Himalayan Package from Uma by COMO, Paro (comohotels.com), exclusive private villas near famous cultural landmarks. The Deal Five nights in a
two-bedroom COMO villa. The Highlight Four-and-ahalf-days of private guided walking tours of Paro Valley, home of Taktsang Monastery, Kyichu Lhakhang, Neyphug Monastery and traditional villages, led by an Englishspeaking Bhutanese with picnic lunches included. Cost From US$9,410 per villa (US$1,882 per night), for two adults and one child, through August 31. Savings 20 percent.
S u pe r S ave r
THAILAND
Weekend Refuel from X2 River Kwai (x2resorts.com), an industrial-chic riverside hotel opening this month in Kanchanaburi, a historic city depicted in Bridge over the River Kwai. The Deal Two nights in a LuXe cabin. The Highlight An elegant champagne breakfast for two, with a peaceful view of the Kwai Noi River. Cost From Bt10,000 (Bt5,000 per night), double, through July 31. Savings 55 percent. VIETNAM All Inclusive Family Package from Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers (starwoodhotels.com), a family-friendly brand in the heart of Saigon’s business and entertainment district. The Deal Two nights in a Grand Tower studio. The Highlight Exclusive Grand Tower benefits—including unlimited access to the Grand Tower Lounge for breakfast, afternoon tea, pre-dinner drinks and hors d’oeuvres— for two adults and one child. Cost From VND6,200,000 (VND3,100,000 per night), double, through July 31. Savings 23 percent.
Beach INDONESIA Discover Sanchaya from The Sanchaya
(thesanchaya.com), a beachfront estate embodying Southeast Asian cultural and architectural diversities on Bintan island. The Deal A stay in a Thai-style Mali villa. The Highlight All-day or per request personalized service by British Butler Institutetrained butlers. Cost From US$593, double, through July 31. Savings 30 percent. THAILAND Weekend Refuel from W Retreat Koh Samui (wretreatkohsamui.com), a stylish beachfront hotel offering 74 private-pool retreats. The Deal Two nights in a Jungle Oasis room. The Highlight An hour-long Well Travelled massage at AWAY spa. Cost From Bt22,500, double, through July 15. Savings Up to 40 percent.
EASTERN & ORIENTAL EXPRESS
Spa THAILAND Sublime Pampering Retreat for Couples from Paresa (paresaresorts.com), a picturesque resort nestled in the seaside slopes north of Patong, Phuket. The Deal Two nights in a Deluxe Aqua Pool suite. The Highlight A signature 150-minute “Royal Paresa” revitalization package at The Spa by Paresa for two. Cost From Bt33,750 (Bt16,875 per night), double, through October 31. Savings 50 percent. VIETNAM Spa Retreat at Vedana Lagoon Resort & Spa (vedanalagoon.com), stilted villas on the shore of one of Southeast Asia’s largest lagoons near Hue and Hoi An. The Deal Three nights in an Aqua bungalow. The Highlight A three-day, three-part spa retreat including a 40-minute foot acupressure and a 50-minute Indian head treatment. Cost From VND18,900,000 (VND6,300,000 per night), double, through December 31. Savings 51 percent. ✚
THE ULTIMATE WAY TO EXPLORE HIDDEN SOUTHEAST ASIA - ABOARD ITS MOST ELEGANT TRAIN.
EXCLUSIVE OFFER
Book to travel in 2014 and your companion will travel half price. Please code EO25 at the time of booking.
Contact our luxury travel consultants on
+65 63950678 or your local travel agent. B E L M O N D .C O M Book before 30th September 2014 for travel before end of December 2014. Offer valid on Eastern & Oriental Express only. This offer cannot be combined with any other offer or promotion. Valid for new bookings only. Offer subject to availability. When booking please quote code EO25 to receive the 50% companion fare.
PATIENTS WITHOUT BORDERS
IN SEARCH OF ASIA’S TOP MEDICAL-TOURISM DESTINATIONS, DIANA HUBBELL MAPS OUT SOME ITINERARIES THAT ADD FUN AND RELAXATION TO THE EQUATION. PLUS THE REGION’S FINEST FACILITIES, WEIRDEST PROCEDURES, BEST RECOVERY RETREATS AND MORE. illustr ations by wasinee chantakorn
Medical tourism has morphed into a booming industry with an estimated worth of more than US$38 billion, according to Patients Beyond Borders. Some of Asia’s most visit-worthy cities are also bastions of top-flight healthcare. That means accessible, private hospitals with the latest technology, armies of world-class doctors and even discounted rates compared to the West. Our prescription for converting those healthcare savings into great vacations? Five getaways centered around checking into—or just getting a check up at—six of Medical Travel Quality Alliance’s top 10 hospitals for medical tourism. So get ready to recover in style. With your doctor’s blessing first. T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
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more than any other country in Southeast Asia, Thailand remains the leader of the pack. About 1.2 million international visitors went to Thai hospitals in 2012 and, with an estimated 50 to 75 percent savings compared to the United States, it’s clear why. Many of the doctors, both at hospitals and upscale private clinics, are trained and certified abroad, though Thailand has solid medical training programs of its own.
GO TO Bangkok’s visitors are spoiled for choice. Although facilities such as Yanhee International Hospital, which specializes in plastic surgery, and Samitivej’s assorted branches draw big numbers, the city’s most famous is Bumrungrad International Hospital, which recently completed a sparkling US$12 million renovation of its patient rooms and sports standout technologies such as futuristic image-guided radiotherapy for cancer patients. Out of the 1 million patients who check in annually to see its 1,200 physicians, more than 520,000 are international visitors. It was Asia’s first internationally approved hospital and remains one of its most prestigious. bumrungrad.com.
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STAY With the sheer number of hotels in town, it’s easy to get overwhelmed. The Sofitel Sukhumvit Bangkok’s central location near Bumrungrad and serene interior position it as a tranquil choice for patients looking for a little post-op R&R without having to battle the city’s notorious traffic jams. 189 Sukhumvit Rd.; 66-2/126-9999; sofitel-bangkok-sukhumvit. com; doubles from Bt6,474. EAT + DRINK If you’re here to heal, head to Rasayana Raw Food Café where nothing is cooked over 43 degrees Celsius in order to preserve all that natural goodness. Entrees include vegetarian sushi and Thai noodles made of shaved young coconut, which is then dressed with a spicy
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
tamarind-ginger sauce. Bonus: they deliver. rasayanaretreat.com; dinner for two Bt800. SPA There’s no better way to unwind after a hospital treatment than with a three-plus-hour, five-part Detox Journey at the Six Senses Spa Pacific City Club. Did we mention it’s right up the street from Bumrungrad and has a spectacular 30th-story city view? pacificcityclub.com; Detox Journey from Bt5,200. FUN FACT As part of its campaign to boost medical tourism, the Tourism Authority of Thailand launched a contest this spring in which three women won a free cosmetic facial surgery, cash and a vacation within Thailand.
From top: Bumrungrad recently completed a sparkling renovation; a facial at the Six Senses Spa; Luxe lobby at Sofitel Sukhumvit.
F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F B U M R U N G R A D I N T E R N AT I O N A L H O S P I TA L ; C O U R T E S Y O F S I X S E N S E S S P A P A C I F I C C I T Y C L U B ; C O U R T E S Y O F S O F I T E L S U K H U M V I T
THAILAND With 36 internationally accredited hospitals,
FROM TOP: COURTESY OF HIT AND MRS; COURTESY OF S P A V I L L A G E K L ; C O U R T E S Y O F M A N D A R I N O R I E N TA L
GO TO Ranked No. 1 on the Medical Travel Quality Alliance’s global list, Prince Court Medical Centre in Kuala Lumpur can hold its own against just about any Western medical facilities. The surgery and screening options here are excellent, and patient comfort is a high priority. The hospital’s overnight rooms, some with views of the famed Petronas Towers, sport luxury hotel type furnishings. princecourt.com. STAY If the idea of staying in a hospital room, no matter how tricked out it might be, doesn’t appeal, hop a short cab ride to the stately Mandarin Oriental Kuala Lumpur for a reprieve from the city’s famously busy streets, where you can keep
your fitness levels up with a round of indoor golf or do a few laps in the mammoth free-form pool with views out over the skyline. mandarinoriental.com; doubles from RM569. EAT + DRINK KL’s culinary melting pot makes Malaysia a fantastic place to eat, but creamy laksa and greasy char kway teow don’t exactly fit the bill for a healthful recovery. For a practically perfect post-op weekend brunch, head to Hit & Mrs, where you can either stick to wholesome options like a truffled mushroom salad with walnuts, grains, greens and pumpkin, or go the more decadent route with custardy brioche French toast. thebiggroup.co/ hitandmrs; brunch for two RM100.
SPA For specially tailored, local experiences for either singles or couples, head to Spa Village Kuala Lumpur. Though conveniently close to the major hospitals, this place feels worlds away. spavillage. com/kualalumpur; three-hour Trade Winds treatment RM850. FUN FACT According to Scientific American, more than 80 percent of Malaysian doctors are already performing laparoscopic surgery. These minimally invasive techniques usually only involve a tiny incision and as little as two days’ recovery. This new technology allows doctors to get a clearer picture of what’s going on inside through magnification and X-rays.
From top: Wholesome fare at Hit and Mrs; Spa Village Kuala Lumpur; Mandarin Oriental Kuala Lumpur.
MALAYSIA Boasting the biggest bang for your buck in
Southeast Asia, Malaysia now rivals India and Thailand as a medical destination of choice. The 30 to 50 percent savings over its neighboring competitor Singapore are so substantial that the country drew roughly 600,000 medical tourists in 2012.
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interpreters available to ensure absolutely nothing is lost in translation. gleneagles.com.sg. STAY Because Singapore is so small and its hospitals are so numerous, patients don’t have to look hard for a plush place to recuperate. The Shangri-La Singapore’s (shangri-la.com; doubles from S$375) central location means easy access to the hospitals, while the health club and Mediterraneaninspired cuisine encourage a fit stay. Meanwhile Oasia Hotel Singapore (stayfareast.com; doubles from S$280) periodically offers discounts at medical or dental facilities.
EAT + DRINK Despite the name, the dishes at Original Sin are far from decadent. Thankfully, offerings like peppers stuffed with quinoa, chickpeas and pickled grapes, or tandoori-grilled vegetables are more savory than sanctimonious, and the place is worth checking out even if you aren’t on a health kick. originalsin.com. sg; dinner for two S$100. SPA Verita is a comprehensive wellness center offering everything from Pilates to an Aroma Bar where you can mix essential oils based on your physiological state of mind. With specialized treatments such as pre- or post-natal massages and a full-spectrum infrared sauna, this place goes way beyond yoga classes (though they have those, too), and boasts a café serving up healthy food you’ll actually want to eat—think sourdough bruschetta with avocado and poached egg for breakfast and calamari with Asian slaw for dinner. verita.com.sg. FUN FACT Singaporeans have the highest life expectancy and lowest infant mortality rate of any Southeast Asian nation, due in part to their excellent health coverage.
SINGAPORE
The Lion City draws more than 550,000 patients to its 12 private and eight government hospitals. The tiny nation has always enjoyed a stellar medical reputation—in the World Health Organization’s famous, if slightly dated, listings, it ranked best in Asia—and boasts more than a dozen accredited facilities. It may not be the best bargain, but it shines when it comes to quality.
From left: Lush massage at Shangri-La Singapore; the groundbreaking Gleneagles Hospital.
F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F S H A N G R I - L A ; C O U R T E S Y O F G L E N E A G L E S H O S P I TA L
GO TO When Parkway Holdings, a medical behemoth in Asia, acquired a local hospital in 1987, they poured in at least S$150 million and turned it into a multi-disciplinary, state-of-the-art medical facility. Today, Gleneagles Hospital has more than 300 on-site specialists in a sprawling complex. It also has a proud record of medical achievements to its credit—it was the first hospital in Southeast Asia to perform a living donor liver transplant and to successfully use robotic surgiscope for delicate neurosurgeries. To make things even easier for the modern medical traveler, they have a whole fleet of
From left: A peaceful suite at Banyan Tree Seoul; joint surgery at Wooridul Spine Hospital; organic muffins, Alien’s Day Out Bake Shop.
SOUTH KOREA
F R O M T O P L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F B A N YA N T R E E ; C O U R T E S Y O F W O O R I D U L S P I N E H O S P I TA L ; C O U R T E S Y O F A L I E N ’ S D AY O U T B A K E S H O P
Out of all of its top-tier medical offerings, plastic surgery draws the most attention. Some procedures are so drastic that South Korean hospitals have to issue plastic surgery certificates to ensure that their now-unrecognizable clients can get through immigration at the airport. Still, K-Pop makeovers aside, there are plenty of other reasons more than 300,000 international visitors came to the country’s hospitals last year. The medical facilities offer top-notch everything, from MRIs and preventive care to spinal surgery.
GO TO Take advantage of Seoul’s super technology at Wooridul Spine Hospital, a world leader in minimally invasive surgery with more than 1,100 neurospine specialists and medical professionals. To make everything extra easy for medical tourists, the hospital provides airport pick-up and drop-off services, as well as visa assistance, interpreters and tourism advice. STAY Banyan Tree Seoul is set just slightly apart from a main city street, making it easily accessible from all major hospitals and mercifully peaceful. Continue your health kick with a stop at their
oh-so-virtuous Juice Bar, conveniently located next to the fitness facilities. banyantreeclub.com; doubles from W690,000. EAT + DRINK For vegan goodies like chai-infused muffins with a cinnamon walnut streusel, pop by Alien’s Day Out Bake Shop. Most of the ingredients are organic and there are also gluten-free options available. Just the thing to help you heal. aliensbakeshop.com; four muffins for W9,000. SPA For the ultimate recovery spot, ditch the bustling streets of Seoul for the soothing waters of nearby hot springs. Icheon Termeden, a German-style
spa resort specializing in recovery and ailment prevention, offers indoor and outdoor pools filled entirely with mineral-rich, natural spring water, not to mention a traditional Korean sauna. termeden. com; adult admission fees from W32,000 per day. FUN FACT Male-to-female transgendered patients head to Yeson Voice Center (yesonvc.net) in swanky Gangnam to have their vocal chords shortened and voices “feminized.” Other procedures at places such as JK Plastic Surgery Clinic (jkplastic.com/en) include breaking and reshaping the jaw and shaving down cheek bones to provide a more narrow face shape.
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GO TO Launched with the help of Harvard Medical, Fortis Hospital, Bangalore offers the best of the best when it comes to orthopedics, cardiovascular surgery and minimally invasive surgery. Just as elite and even more specialized is Mumbai’s Asian Heart Institute, one of the only places in the world where doctors perform bypass surgeries on still-beating hearts. fortis healthcare.com; asianheart institute.org. STAY The city’s only 24-hour spa is just one of many reasons to stay at The Oberoi, Mumbai when you’re in town to recover. Consistently one of T+L’s top
picks in all of India, this luxe flagship property—decked out in oak, ivory and glass—pampers patients from the moment they walk in the door. oberoihotels. com; doubles from Rs14,500. EAT + DRINK Head to Mumbai’s ritzy Pali Hill neighborhood for wholegrain buckwheat galettes at trendy crêperie Suzette. Options range from the veg-friendly Alpille, with caramelized onions, goat cheese and zucchini, to the Estragon, with grilled chicken and mushrooms bound by a Dijon-yogurt sauce. suzette. in; dinner for two Rs1,200. SPA For all-natural treatments drawing on ancient, local
roots, JIVA Spa at the Taj in Mumbai is the place to go. Let your body rejuvenate with a Vishuddi detoxifying treatment, where you’ll be rubbed down with silkgloved hands, then swaddled in an Indian herb wrap. tajhotels.com; 70-minute Vishuddi detox treatment Rs3,500. FUN FACT In February 2014, the Asian Heart Institute pulled off a groundbreaking surgery that had never been completed successfully. A patient with an astounding 17 blockages in his heart required 12 bypass grafts, as opposed to the usual three or four. Though previously diagnosed as inoperable, the critical-condition patient survived.
Western nations—are staggering, especially when it comes to pricey heart and orthopedic surgeries. With roughly 250,000 medical tourists per year, India has some catching up to do with destinational titans such as Thailand. Still, the industry is growing and the government keeps improving its health care system; the number of Joint Commission International-certified hospitals has gone from two in 2005 to 21.
From Top: Herbal compress at JIVA Spa; an energizing breakfast at Suzette; oak, ivory and glass in The Oberoi lobby.
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F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F TA J H O T E L S ; © A N T O N I A A C H A C H E / C O U R T E S Y O F S U Z E T T E ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E O B E R O I H O T E L S
INDIA The savings here—up to 85 percent compared with some
HEALTHFUL HAVENS Sometimes a little old-fashioned R&R is just what the doctor ordered. You can fill that prescription at these five hot spots to naturally detox and unwind.
INDIA Whip those chakras back into alignment at Shreyas Retreat, Bangalore (shreyasretreat.com; doubles from US$380), which features all the hatha and ashtanga classes of a traditional ashram with all the comforts —and spa treatments—of an upscale resort.
MALDIVES One&Only Reethi Rah (reethirah.oneandonly resorts.com; doubles from US$1,100) employs special lifestyle therapists to help put you on the right track; ayurvedic treatments to reset your internal rhythms; and produce from the garden to up your vitamin intake.
INDONESIA Set near Eat Pray Love’s Ubud, Fivelements Bali (fivelements.org; doubles from US$575) offers sumptuous raw cuisine, Balinese-inspired healing rituals, and silent meditation or wellness retreats to inspire relaxation and reflection.
THAILAND One of Asia’s most famous wellness resorts, celeb-fave Kamalaya Koh Samui (kamalaya.com; all-inclusive three-day detox programs from Bt56,100 per person) offers a range of tailored programs designed to help you sleep better, lose weight
or just unnwind. New kid in town Parama Koh Chang (paramakohchang.com; doubles from Bt2,378) has a killer location where you can enjoy free daily yoga classes, super-fresh seafood and all-inclusive spa treatments. THE PHILIPPINES Get ready for an inside-out rejuvenation at The Farm At San Benito (thefarmatsan benito.com; from P6,300). Raw dishes complement a full menu of holistic treatments from four licensed doctors, from the fringe (reiki and acupuncture) to the really out there (ozone therapy, intravenous vitamin infusion, and a gallbladder flush).
Getting steamy at Kamalaya Koh Samui.
SPEED DIAL
TravelEmergency The official app from Patients Beyond Borders covers most of Asia and allows you to search for internationally accredited hospitals, and track them down using GPS coordinates. For those struggling with the local lingo, the app translates many of your basic medical needs into Thai, Mandarin or Japanese. iOS; Free.
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MediApp Korea A must for any medical tourists bound for Seoul, this app helps you search for hospitals by desired treatment. It lists detailed information including specific physicians and their specialties, as well as contact information for local agencies. It also offers a planner to keep track of medication and dosages. iOS; Android; Free.
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Thailand Medical Tourism Released by the Tourism Authority of Thailand, this handy app includes comprehensive listings of hospitals, specialist clinics and holistic centers or spas. Think of it as your ultimate directory—it tells you what treatments and facilities are available at each location and provides the contact numbers of medical tourism agencies. iOS; Android; Free.
The Clinic Finder As the name implies, this is a straightforward app designed to help you find all sorts of medical facilities around the world. More interactive than most of its competition, The Clinic Finder allows patients to rate clinics and compare their findings. iOS; Android; Free.
C O U R T E S Y O F K A M A L AYA
Download these four freebies to your smartphone to simplify—or maybe even save—your life.
The Legend Returns World-renowned conductor Zubin Mehta’s flamboyant and passionate style 1st Part
ANTONIO VIVALDI: Concerto for Four Violins & Orchestra in B Flat minor WOLFGANG AMADEUS MOZART: Symphony No.36 (LINZ)
INTERVAL 2nd Part
GUSTAV MAHLER: Symphony No.5 in C-sharp minor
ZUBIN MEHTA ISRAEL PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA Monday 20 October 7.30pm Baht 10,000 / 7,000 / 5,000 / 4,000 / 2,500
Hotline 02 262 3191 www.thaiticketmajor.com (24 hrs)
www.bangkokfestivals.com
VENUE: Thailand Cultural Centre. Free shuttle from MRT station Thailand Cultural Centre, Exit 1, during 5.30-7.00pm
July2014
In This Issue
L AURYN ISHAK
114 Mergui Archipelago 122 Xiamen and Kinmen 128 Bali 138 Biarritz 144 Asian Beaches+ Islands 154 Mediterranean Cruises
Natural immersion at COMO Shambhala Estate, in Bali, page 128.
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Expert fishermen, Moken have been communing with the sea for 4,000 years.
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© N I C O L A S R E Y N A R D/ G E T T Y I M A G E S
INTO THE MYSTIC AMONG 800 PRISTINE BURMESE ISLANDS AND THE FEW THOUSAND SEA GYSPIES WHO CALL THEM HOME, JENINNE LEE-ST. JOHN SAILS OFF THE GRID AND INTO A DREAM WORLD OF ROMANTIC LEGENDS. JUST LET HER SLEEP A LITTLE WHILE LONGER. PHOTOGRAPHED BY RICHARD MCLEISH
onight we’re docking in a protected cove off 115. It has two lovely snowy beaches, a patch of coral full of fish, a secret cave and a sweet sunset. It does not have a name. There are so many islands, about 800, in the Mergui Archipelago—a 250,000-squarekilometer region off Burma’s far south coast—so many stunning, deserving islands, from lone rocks to massive, dense jungles, that they haven’t all been baptized. In fact, possibly they haven’t all been discovered; the British Admiralty chart we’re using on this sailing includes Burmese, Thai and Indian surveys, some of which date to 1877. This is a trip into the last vast untouched waters of Southeast Asia, and, as such, it’s also a journey back in time and into the depths of your imagination. For, though you’re aboard the Meta IV, a 25-meter sailing yacht with four cabins and private loos that began running six-day cruises into the Mergui last year, you’re also completely off the grid. Mobile service disappears a couple
of hours out of port (at Kawthaung, Burma, at which the Meta IV is the only luxury vessel registered). Four crew and up to seven other sojourners are aboard for company. Only a handful of modern ships venture into these waters. Maybe you see one, maybe you don’t, but you will see plenty of old-school fishing boats, manned by Moken, sea gypsies, trying to maintain a millennia-old symbiotic relationship with the water even as Burma’s government mulls development. Yes, of course there’s an end date to how long your mind will be allowed to wander here. Somehow that makes it even more ethereal.
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he pier to nowhere seems completely incongruous. At a distance, it looks like a spanking-new totem to modernity, a shiny anachronism jutting out from an overgrown, prehistoric island. Look closer with the tide out, you can see the ocean’s quick work, barnacles coating the wooden pylons and underside of the concrete stairs. The shells are razor sharp—the only time during the entire trip when shoes are required. Walk the long plank to the shore and spy a pile of fresh puppies wriggling in the sand. Behind them, three men, clad in longyi; they’ve been abandoned here by Burmese tycoon Tay Za to stake his claim for the tourism gold-rush. The guards watch over a smattering of halfbuilt sea-view villas destined to become a resort, but the effect of the scattered construction materials, the weathered structures, the hammocks strung up for the men to sleep outside rather than indoors
Chef Saman and guide A.K. take a break on the bow of the Meta IV. From left: One of the Mergui’s hundreds of deserted islets; snorkeling is a daily affair.
is more of a place half undone. It’s like a town that has weathered the apocalypse, sending its inhabitants fleeing or perhaps to their deaths, these men and these dogs the only survivors. You feel like an explorer happening on the last of a race. It’s easy to let your imagination run riot—almost impossible not to—when you spend entire days staring at islands. It’s hypnotic. It’s a stream of haunting visions, to borrow from Longfellow’s ode to the sea, of all my dreams, all the old romantic legends. The Mergui isn’t open ocean, which plays different tricks on the mind. No, this is a beautiful repetition. So many lush dots of land, you want to project a backstory onto each of them. They can’t all be empty. This one actually isn’t. Not quite. Skipping across the expanse of white powder, it seems obvious as to why Tay Za colonized this place, why he tucked the villas behind the tree line. This beach is postcard-perfect, right? Ah, but our convivial guide A.K. walks on, the entire length of the beach. Wait. Why are we not diving in, why are we heading away from all that awesomeness into the woods? Because: Surprise.
On the other side there’s a shoreline even more stunning, a protected parabola somehow more perfect, glassy waves even more beckoning. A.K. glances at us, just a smidge triumphant, and we thank him with widened eyes. It’s off to the races; not one of us can strip down fast enough. Flip flops, tops, shorts all lead in messy rows to the high-tide line like their owners evaporated into the setting. Trudging through them comes our smiling mate Kaka, cooler in hand, offering frosty drinks. Kaka, you’re our hero. We could sit in these lapping waves, watching tiny, near-translucent cardinalfish dart by, staring at our toes and drinking icy beers forever. A request: A.K., would you mind getting the dinghy from the pier and bringing it to this side of the island so we can tarry a while longer? No problem. We spend an inordinate amount of time, faces to the sun, butts in the water, collectively thanking our good fortune to be in this very place at this very time. Then, around the headland—what’s that? A bow nudges its way into view. Then a sail. Three glorious sails cutting into the horizon. We can just make out captain and crew waving from aboard and it dawns on us: A.K. and Kaka have fetched not just the dinghy, but the entire yacht to pick us up. Even though we love it here, we also can’t help but feel like we’re being saved, and in dramatic fashion. We cheer, because in our minds we’re survivors of a shipwreck, or maybe that apocalypse, now getting rescued by eagle-eyed explorers. Or are they pirates? The imagination, as I said, is unbound. T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
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The three-sail Meta IV flies the national flag of each passenger and crew member.
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y day three, a schedule of sorts emerges. Wake with the sun streaming in through the bedroom skylights. Swim. Reflect (listen to podcasts, practice yoga, bird watch—whatever floats your boat). Full hot Western and Thai breakfast. Daily briefing. Weigh anchor/Bloody Marys. Set sail/sunbathe. Nap. Swim. Lunch. Beers or bubbly. Expedition (snorkeling, exploring islands, kayaking mangroves, meeting Moken). Gin and tonics or pirate-appropriate rum drinks. Poseidon’s bounty dinner. Games/laughs. Bonding with captain. Stargaze. Stargaze. So far from any artificial light, the sky is ablaze every night. It feels irresponsible to take your eyes away from it. Yes, all the major northern hemisphere constellations are visible, but they are hemmed in, sharing the spotlight on this endless black tapestry with so many brightly twinkling others. It makes perfect sense that the Moken navigate not by constellations but by individual stars. Wrapped in a blanket, rocked by the tide, lying on the bow under a snowglobe sky, my thoughts again wander, this time to the Bard’s fair Verona. Remember how deeply and single-mindedly Juliet yearned for night? So much that she saw her Romeo in each celestial body? That’s the moonlit Mergui: Romeo cut out in little stars, the face of heaven so fine.
Sorry, A.K., we’re all swimming ashore. Laughing, he acquiesces that no, apparently, it is not too far for us. His original caution was fair—every island seems swimmable, every beach bathable, but the Meta IV crew knows which are blockaded by skin-slicing rocks or dangerous undertows or itchy-scratchy sand fleas. As the days pass— yes, we only have six of them but we all get to know each other really well; it’s a big boat but still a boat—the crew goes from protective parenting to indulgent as they gauge our swimming skills (sure, jump off in the open ocean), and our laissez-faire attitude about where they take us (daily briefing? Yep, wherever), and what they feed us. Chef, to his credit, is slightly more stressed. He’s got a full freezer of groceries and meats, but seafood is procured at sea. Spy a fishing boat, hop in the dinghy and motor up. These are floating treehouses of a few dozen men (and maybe a dog or three), poking their heads out of the various crannies, silently interested in not just foreign visitors but also the foreign, ahem, female form. A.K. hands the captain a bag of beverages in greeting. Then, the captain offers our pick of whatever they have in the holds. It isn’t payment, not even barter. Two gifts independent of each other. “Here the fishermen are so kind,” says chef Saman, who in the past worked in resorts in Phuket that imported fish from these waters. “We just give them a little soft drink or beer and they give us a lot of seafood. I never saw this in Thailand.” Sadly for chef, on day one we stocked our fridges with our weights in squid and then… nobody had anything but squid for days. We don’t mind; he gets creative: stir-fried squid and veggies, squid kra pow, tempura squid. But you should see this man’s face light up when,
t takes a second for our eyes to adjust. Are those Aboom and Abaa, the Moken spirits, on that distant shore? If Moken get lost at sea and manage to survive, they erect totems to these ancestors, responsible for saving them. You can find these poles standing in the sands of deserted islands throughout the Mergui, a testament to the enduring history of these people. But no, that’s actually Jessica and Annie holding seemingly interminable, stickstraight handstands. When we embarked on this snorkeling excursion in this large and intricate reef, with a steep drop-off into the navy-blue depths, A.K. cautioned against attempting to reach shore: “It seems close, but it is far.” So when the rest of us surface near the dinghy, after circumnavigating, bisecting and generally immersing ourselves in this actual aquarium—I’d been trailing one particular neon-speckled checkerboard wrasse for 15 minutes—we’re astounded to see two of our compatriots on the beach, the sun reflecting off the seawater clinging to their bodies, Zen mermaids with impeccable balance.
towards the end of the trip, we hit the mother lode. The kind men of this boat give us whitefish, two-dozen crabs, three kilos of tiger prawns. We enjoyed our feast that night as much for the variety of flavors as the sheer joy we witnessed on chef’s face as he prepared it. Captain Ekachai also loves his job. Since learning to sail in his early 20’s, he’s been out on the water for a decade-and-a-half. Wiry and fit, he has an eye for birds, a quiet charm and an attitude of lead-by-example. The man knows the boat inside and out and is responsible for everyone’s safety. But if he’s not at the helm, he’s everywhere and anywhere on deck, as needed—even chopping veggies for chef. In fact, sitting in the stern, just as the flaming sun accelerates down into pitch blackness, watching the crew framed by the light of the galley as they bustle through dinner prep, I feel their camaraderie so strongly that it’s almost enough to make me want to run away to sea. One day, we pull up to a floating hut, its bamboo walls covered in polychrome patterned hill-tribe fabrics. It’s a gas station. Engine cut, anchor dropped, that’s my cue to jump into the water. During our long sails, there’s a breeze, but it’s still hot. More to the point, the ocean looks so inviting. Depending on the depth, the coral, the closeness to land, the color changes from powder blue to deep emerald. It’s as if someone took the rainbow and made it only out of greens and blues. After I’ve spent hours staring at this ocean, though it’s real, though it’s right below us, it starts to feel like a mirage. And so, when we stop, the draw to the water is like a thirsty man’s in the desert.
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SO FAR FROM ANY ARTIFICIAL LIGHT, THE NIGHT SKY IS ABLAZE. IT’S IRRESPONSIBLE TO TAKE YOUR EYES AWAY
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I’m 20 meters from the boat, treading water in the celadon, watching a school of yellowtail fusilier swim by, when someone on deck says, “Jellyfish.” That’s my cue to jump out of the water. Back on board, my once-clear swimming hole and, in fact, all the water surrounding the boat becomes a polka-dot patchwork of plump purple jellyfish. The entire lagoon has gotten the mumps. It’s freakishly beautiful. But there’s something wrong with the engine. Before we know it, captain has donned a snorkel mask and plunged into the undulating ocean to fix it. We watch in awe as he emerges five minutes later, nonchalant and unscathed. “I guess you’re not allergic to jellyfish,” I say. “I might be,” he laughs. This guy is badass.
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t seems impossible that this tiny boy, no more than six, can so skillfully man a stand-up canoe, and even less likely that his mother would let him bring his baby sister alone out into the deep. But these are Moken, freediving fisherpeople whose children can see twice as well underwater as Europeans, who catch fish by exhaling a steady stream of disorienting bubbles and then plunging in a hand spear, whose communities suffered almost no casualties during the 2004 tsunami because they
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alone knew it was coming. These Austronesian people arrived here some four millennia ago and were nomadic until the 1970’s, when Burma allowed commercial fishing boats into the area (the effects of their dynamite blasts, now prohibited, are most obvious in the depletion of stellar diving spots in a coral-rich region that should be rife with them), and began allotting land for Moken to settle villages. The boy pulls up on our starboard side. A.K. tosses him an orange. The boy drops an oar and jostles his canoe a bit perilously in an unsuccessful attempt to snag it before it hits the water. He fishes it out, steadies himself and catches the next three like a seasoned baseball shortstop, to our cheers and the squeals of his sister. Shortly after he rows away, a longtail boat putters up to bring us to Nyaung Wee Island. I’ve been taken on countless “cultural excursions” to “indigenous villages” throughout Asia, and never have I had a more uplifting experience. Thank goodness for native Burmese A.K., who leads us down the two long rows of houses and shops like the Pied Piper, joking with and translating for the growing mass of local kids around us. Shy at first, they soon are climbing the Western male giants we have brought, posing sassily for photos and, led by Teha, a firecracker of a girl in green shorts, lining up to pull my curls. We watch other kids take their oral exams in the one-room schoolhouse. We watch the village headman instruct two men through the old art of building kabang—boats made from a single tree. One hopes this dual approach of maintaining traditions while embracing education will see the Moken out of their precarious situation. Only 2,000 to 3,000 remain in the Mergui. This is a culture that, thanks to an ability to dive an ear-popping 20 meters, mined the kingdom of Siam’s first currency, cowry shells. This is a culture of gypsy souls, born before the wind, also younger than the sun, just like
incontrovertibly home on Thai soil—a promise broken by the phones themselves, which turn out not to be on airplane-mode, like we thought, and, sooner than expected, start to ping. It’s too much. I head to the bow and try to be Zen. I want to rev up my imagination staring at the islands and the ocean for one last time. But the islands start to get more plentiful, the ocean turns murkier; I know these shifts are caused by our proximity to port, and I avert my gaze. Those cliffs ahead morph into the sunset keyhole and instead of staring down the tech-filled, overconnected, urban everyday life to which we’re returning, I’m looking into the parallel universe we’re leaving behind—a ping-free serenity of a crew’s camaraderie, gypsy souls, romantic legends, and a heaven so very fine. ✚
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A little kabang captain. From left: A resident of 115; smiles on Nyaung Wee Island.
M A P B Y W A S I N E E C H A N TA K O R N
Van Morrison sang. (Hark, now hear the sailors cry... let your soul and spirit fly into the mystic.) This is a culture that you pray, as you pull away from shore, will survive, if only for Teha, the last girl waving from the sand. fter a late-day snorkel behind a natural jetty, the waves washing over us as we try a little Moken-style deep diving, we putter to a barely there islet, a sandbar iced with small pink conch shells and large shiny cowries. We’re here for the westward view: Jagged rocks all slanting sharply southward, one covered with trees all growing in the same direction, and, 50 meters offshore, a massive, cocoa-colored four-story pyramid with a hole hewn through the middle. This is serious Lord of the Rings here; you can almost picture two wizards dueling atop it. Science says that the combination of the wind and the tide ganged up on this landscape and tilted these boulders, that the steady rhythm of rough waves took thousands of years to carve that donut out of solid rock. As the sun sets, tangerines and burnt siennas flowing through that keyhole, the imagination says it was placed here deliberately by a supernatural being in need of a looking glass, a portal to parallel universe, a view on the Cat’s Eye Nebula. The last morning is radiant and reflective and somber. How much, really, would captain need to just turn this boat around and head back into the constellation of islands? Give us a number. It’s not just that we want to keep exploring. We want to stay disconnected, for just a while longer. With every meter we get closer to Kawthaung, the anxiety about returning to the real world builds. Months later, recalling those last couple of hours brings butterflies to the stomach. We make a pact not to check our phones until we’re completely,
Getting There Burma Boating (burmaboating.com; 66-2/107-0445; six-day, five-night sailing from US$2,450 per person all-inclusive except for alcohol, and port and visa fees) sails into the Mergui Archipelago from Kawthaung, Burma, November through April. From Bangkok, fly to Ranong via Nok Air (nokair.com) or Happy Air (happyair.co.th). Take a taxi to the international pier,
pass through emigration, and then take a longtail boat across the maritime border to Kawthaung; special visas for entering the Mergui are issued on-board. From within Burma, there are domestic flights to Kawthaung via Air Mandalay (airmandalay.com) and Myanma Airways (myanmaairways.aero); get your visa before entering the country.
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F E L I X H U G /G E T T Y I M A G E S
Car-free Gulangyu, a prime beach getaway off the coast of Xiamen, in Fujian.
China Beaches
Starting at the Victorian treaty port of Xiamen in Fujian, ga b r i e l l e ja f f e island-hops her way to Taiwan, discovering that the archipelago of Kinmen isn’t so far from the motherland—in distance or at heart.
I cry out to yet another happy couple. “Congratulations!” She’s wearing a red ball gown, he’s in a red jacket and bowtie. They’re the third bride and groom I’ve seen today on my stroll through the tiny, barely two-square-kilometer Gulangyu Island. It’s not surprising that this picturesque islet has become China’s premier wedding photography spot. A 10-minute ferry ride from the seaside city of Xiamen, Gulangyu is ringed by sandy shores. Its hilly interior is something of an open-air architecture museum, crammed with hundreds of one-time foreign consulates, churches and residences, built in the late 19th and early 20th century, when Xiamen, then Amoy, was a treaty port. Concurrently, island and city both became repositories of the foreign-influenced aesthetic visions of wealthy, peripatetic Chinese. Somehow, most of Gulangyu’s atmospheric architecture survived the Cultural Revolution and more recent modernization. Skyscrapers have risen in Xiamen but the city is one of the greenest and cleanest in China, outlined in some of the country’s best beaches. It’s becoming increasingly luxe, too, thanks to the recent openings of the Kempinski, Westin and Hotel Indigo, and the spruced-up Zhongshan Road, a pedestrianized shopping street, where stalls selling oyster pancakes and milk tea are signs of Taiwanese influence. In fact, Taiwan is so close you can actually see it. And that’s another draw: Taiwan’s rustic Kinmen archipelago is easily accessible from here, completing a trifecta of easy-to-hop beach destinations, with a shared history but individual characters.
gulangyu’s beaches and main throughways teem with tourists and competing bridal photographers. But, climbing uphill into the maze of serpentine alleyways in the island’s center, I lose the crowds and immerse myself 124
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from xiamen’s hulishan fort, where rusted 19th-century German cannons still stand guard, I see a group of islands administered by Taiwan, the closest of which is a little more than four kilometers away. I’m told that with binoculars, I could spot a large sign, written in traditional Chinese characters, exclaiming “Unify China!” but I decide to take a closer look by hopping the one-hour ferry the next day to the largest of these islands, Kinmen, the eponym for the rest of the archipelago. In some ways Kinmen is a continuation of Xiamen. Long sweeps of sand make up the shoreline; similar turn-of-thecentury overseas-Chinese residences cluster together, resplendent in their East-meets-West architecture. But this is a much sleepier version, an old, unhurried island, yet to be
G A B R I E L L E J A F F E . O P P O S I T E F R O M T O P : C A N C A N C H U /G E T T Y I M A G E S ; Y O N G Y I N G W U / G E T T Y I M A G E S
“Gong xi, gong xi!”
in the crumbling facades and flurry of bright purple bougainvillea. I am transported to other ages and continents. A floral Victorian frieze reminds me of England, a neo-classical portico takes me to Washington, D.C., and as I look down at the rust-colored roof tiles, I could almost be in Tuscany. It seems fitting that Xiamen’s name means a kind of gateway. Xiamen was not just an entry point into China for foreign traders and ideas. For centuries, traffic flowed outwards too. It was from this port that huge numbers of Chinese—as many as 100,000 a year by the end of the 19th century—left their homeland seeking new opportunities in Southeast Asia, Australia and the Americas. The wealth that some of these emigrants brought back is evident in their ornate residences, still scattered across Gulangyu. After lunching on barbecued giant crab legs at Longtou Snack Street, I continue on my architectural-fusion safari. My favorite building is the Sea & Sky Villa, built in the 1920’s for a returnee from the Philippines. Classic European columns prop up a traditional Chinese curved roof, a physical testament to the mixing of cultures its residents must have celebrated. Later, back in Xiamen proper, I explore the ivy-clad campus of Xiamen University, founded in 1921 by Tan Kah-kee, a Xiamen-born, Singaporean businessman. From there, it’s a short walk to Baicheng Beach, a crescent of sand that meets the warm waters of the Taiwan Strait. On shore, yet another couple is taking wedding pictures; out on the calm sea, groups of students are messing around on pedal boats. After dipping my feet in, I briefly consider hiking along the new wooden boardwalk to the next beach, but then I notice a vendor selling sliced, fresh fruit. I buy some mango and plop down on the ground, playing with the warm sand between my toes. As I gaze out at the rocky outcrops in the sea and the skyscrapers on the edges where the bay curves round, I consider how history has a funny way of repeating itself. After decades of isolation during the Maoist era, Xiamen is once again a gateway between China and the outside world, with the overseas Chinese playing an important bridging role. Designated a Special Economic Zone in 1980, the city has prospered through foreign investment, with much of the billions coming from overseas Chinese communities and the Taiwanese.
Xiamen’s serene southeast coast on the Taiwan Strait. Below: Historic Zhongshan Road has become a bustling hub. Opposite: One of the many happy couples taking wedding photos on Gulangyu.
Overseas Chinese influence in Shuitou village, Kinmen. Below from left: Memories of the Cold War still pervade Kinmen; an ancestral shrine in the Qin Inn.
M A P B Y W A S I N E E C H A N TA K O R N . O P P O S I T E F R O M T O P : G A B R I E L L E J A F F E ( 2 ) ; A L B E R T O B U Z Z 0 L A
face-lifted into 2014. Rambling along a deserted, windswept beach, observing the pale outlines of Xiamen’s towers on the other side of the water, the contrast is striking. Kinmen is a peaceful collection of low-rise traditional villages; the tallest building I see here is just three stories high. Kinmen first opened to visitors from mainland China in 2001. Until the 1990’s, even Taiwanese civilians weren’t allowed to enter as the island was under military rule. For decades invasion seemed a real possibility. At the Guningtou battlefield site, I learn about the intense 1949 fight on Kinmen’s beaches between Chiang Kai-shek’s Nationalists and Communist troops. From the trenches, I peer out at an adjacent, closed-off beach where barnaclecovered tanks and anti-landing spikes still litter the sand. Later, chatting with some Kinmen residents, I learn that the mainland bombarded the island from 1954 to 1978, dropping some 500,000 shells, maybe 10 times that. Born on on Kinmen in 1943, Mr. Xu recalls with an awkward smile, “Much of my childhood was spent underground, hiding in shelters.” Memories from this era still punctuate the landscape too, from bullet-marked buildings to the vast air raid tunnels, now open for the public to tour. A whole tourist industry has been built on the Cold War history. But this is just one of the now-serene island’s draws. Military men on patrol peacefully rub shoulders with Chinese mainlanders. I join them in inhaling the sea air, meandering the quiet streets of Kincheng town, and dipping into charming boutiques to buy handmade egg rolls and kaoliang liquor. I’m also seduced into purchasing Kinmen’s other famous specialty: knives made of artillery shells. It seems no small irony that these weapons of war are being brought by mainlanders back to the motherland. But as I watch a master knife-maker pound them out by hand in his workshop, the appeal is obvious. It’s not just their finesse. It’s that the slow, artisanal way of making these knives typifies Kinmen’s laid-back, traditional way of life. This is a quality I appreciate over and over again during my stay here and, in particular, during my visits to the island’s temples, where Buddhists and Taoists light incense with a quiet reverence often missing in China. A bridge to the mainland, a giant casino and a scheme to make the island a duty-free shopping paradise have been touted as possible tactics to boost tourism numbers. But today at least, Kinmen still seems blissfully untouched. Back at my hotel, a restored courtyard house called the Qin Inn, I chat with the owner, an artist who moved to Kinmen from Taiwan’s main island six years ago for the slower pace and sense of history. “Of course, it’s better that relations are improving. It’s great that I can pop over to Xiamen to watch a movie or buy art supplies,” he says. “But I wonder what effect it will have on Kinmen.” Change has already come to some extent. With the growing rapprochement between China and Taiwan over the last decade, many Kinmenese have grown to see the former enemy as an economic lifeline. I even spot a poster of Chairman Mao at one of the island’s guesthouses, and have to wonder what he and his old foe Chiang Kai-shek would have made of that. ✚
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T L Guide
Taiwan Strait
CHINA TAIWAN
CHINA HAINAN
XIAMEN
KINMEN KINCHENG
GULANGYU
N SOUTH CHINA SEA
Getting There Fly into Xiamen via Dragonair (dragonair.com), Hong Kong Airlines (hongkongairlines.com), Malaysia Airlines (malaysiaairlines.com), Thai Airways (thaiairways.com), SilkAir (silkair.com) and Xiamen Airlines (xiamenair.com). To reach Kinmen, leave via Wutong port on the east side of Xiamen; ferries take around an hour.
STAY Hotel Indigo In a prime position, with panoramic views of Gulangyu, this boutique blends international luxury with local flavor, with Chinese modern art and black and white photos from Xiamen’s concession era. 16 Lujiang Rd., Siming Dist., Xiamen; 86-592/226-1666; hotelindigo. com; doubles from RMB1,000. Kempinski Hotel Xiamen Overlooking Yundang Lake, this five-star has a pillow and blanket menu and a spa full of teainspired therapies. 98 Hubin Middle Rd., Siming Dist., Xiamen; 86-592/258-8888; kempinski. com; doubles from RMB980. The Westin Xiamen Pitchperfect service in the center of modern Wu Yi Plaza. 398 Xianyue Rd., Siming Dist.; 86-592/3378888; starwoodhotels.com; doubles from RMB1,120. Qin Inn Meticulously restored by a Taiwanese artist, this classic Chinese courtyard house was originally built in 1925 by a family who made their fortune in Indonesia. 64 Qian Shuitou, Kinmen; 886-0910/395-565; qininn.tumblr.com; doubles from NT$1,800.
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EAT+DRINK Gulangyu Yuanxiangkou Fish Balls A local favorite for its porkstuffed fish balls served in tasty broth, it has several locations on Gulangyu, including 62 Longtou Road. 86-592/206-4982; yxkyw. com; dinner for two RMB100. Jinshui Restaurant In Shuitou, a village famous for its period overseas Chinese architecture, this much-loved eatery serves traditional treats such as pork rib stew. 48 Shuitou Village, Kinmen; dinner for two from NT$700. SEE+DO Overseas Chinese Museum Despite limited English signage, it’s worth a visit for the paintings, historic photos and artifacts depicting the lives of Chinese emigrants over time. 493 Siming South Rd., Xiamen; 86-592/2085345; free entry. Xiamen Botanical Garden One of China’s oldest and largest gardens: Winding trails through landscaped nurseries with rare subtropical plants, some of which can be found nowhere else on earth. 25 Huyuan Rd., Xiamen; 86-592/202-4785; xiamenbg. com; entrance RMB40. Maestro Wu’s Steel Knives From cleavers to pocket knives, instruments expertly crafted with metal from the shells dropped on Kinmen during the Cold War. 21 Mofan St., Kincheng, Kinmen; 886-83/311-168. Guningtou War Museum The site of fierce fighting between Communist and Nationalist forces in 1949. Walk through trenches and explore the island’s war history. Nanshan Rd., Jinning, Kinmen; 886-82/313-274.
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Transcendence Rising above prosaic daily life, and Bali’s hectic south, ho l ly m c d o n a l d hits the restart button at some of the island’s more remote natural retreats.
Seventy gardeners maintain the greenery at COMO Shambhala Estate. Opposite: The black sand beach of Spa Village Tembok.
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ph o t o gr a ph e d by l au ry n i s h a k
e’ve wound our way up into the orange-grove laden mountains of Kintamani, passing views of Lake Batur, scenes of traditional rural life and glimpses of volcanic peaks. Shrines are wrapped in black-and-white checked fabrics, shaded by golden umbrellas. Hibiscus flowers wend over stone carvings. Mossy walls shield family compounds with cocks strutting outside. We pass small plantations of cacao, papaya and bananas until the mist of mountains gives way to an ocean panorama. All of this beauty is why I get so defensive when people insist the crowds of the south mean Bali’s best days are over. The interior and the north are the island’s retort to those maligners. I’m juicing, stretching and bird watching my way through three natural-living retreats, which despite occupying varied landscapes—black-sand beach, oceanic protected park, lush hilly interior—collectively encapsulate the gentle spirit of Bali, away from the busy, mercantile south. A three-hour trip to the northeastern tip from the hectic Kuta area has allowed me to relax into the full gamut of the island’s geography before arriving at Spa Village Resort, where I’m enrolled in a short version of its “School of Life” program. Like many, I live a relentless march of deadlines and parenting, with little time for reflection and planning for meaningful things— stuck in a routine that’s reactive rather than proactive. My time here is a whirl of healthful meals, spa, classes and quiet time to allow me to recalibrate my life, to hit the restart button. That begins with a black-sand cleansing foot ritual, to rid me of any negativity arising from the earth. Then, for my first treatment, my legs are smothered in red clay and I’m left alone for 10 minutes. All I can do is listen to music, eat my frozen watermelon and sip my ylang-ylang flower water. It’s an induction into stillness.
Later, two therapists are filling the bath in my room, so I sit outside on my veranda overlooking a lotus pond to read. But there’s not enough light, so I’m left yet again, listening to insects, and voices drifting over the lawn and through the frangipani trees. Sheer torture. But I’ve mindmelded into my surrounds by the time I step into the bath, a detoxifying blend of volcanic clay, the leaves of various local plants and the essential oils of neem, piper beetle, turmeric, tea tree, citronella and patchouli. I am becalmed, centered and en route to a more healthful me. Spurred on by the thought of seeing a sunrise over black sands scattered with local jukung (outrigger fishing boats), I pull myself out of bed for an early morning swim. As much as I’ve been trying to abandon my phone, I’ve got to break my moratorium to Instagram this dusty rose sunrise. From the beachside, infinity-edged pool, the horizon seems liquid as the day slowly asserts itself. I attend a class to learn the basics of pencak silat, an ancient Balinese martial art; I practice swing yoga, swaying in a hammock-like contraption by the sea. Both classes are such hard-core sessions, so focused on learning precise moves and postures, so far removed from even the strict routine of my usual Bikram yoga—that I feel like I’ve had a good physical as well as mental workout. Using a mortar and pestle, I pound fresh galangal, cloves and soaked rice to make a headily aromatic body scrub. It’s about body and earth: back to the basics of life. Throughout my stay, I’m sipping herbal teas from a flask I’ve been instructed to carry with me at all times, or staff members are chasing me down to hand me freshly shucked yellow coconuts, the kind used in Bali’s many ceremonies, reputed to have greater healthgiving properties than your standard young green coconut. It’s hydration on hyperdrive.
From left: Welcome to Spa Village; descend to the Ayung River from COMO Shambhala. Opposite clockwise from top left: Spa Village’s infinity pool, and traditional lulur body scrub; COMO Shambala hosts Balinese dancers, and, Sandy, its golden retriever.
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The silence
of the water
is a meditation
in its own right,
allowing contemplation without distractions
Treehouse living at COMO Shambhala. Opposite: Plying the waters near Java from The Menjangan.
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On my final morning, the hotel arranges a visit to a local white-bearded Balinese healer at his home. The massage session, on a simple mattress behind a privacy sheet hanging from the roof, is intuitive and strong; the healer, Ketut, eventually gives me a diagnosis. “Your chakras are all alive.” It’s a welcome surprise, since I usually feel like I’m playing catch-up. The subtext seems to be: “Get ahead of life. What are you waiting for?” THE GUIDE IS PATIENT IN DIRECTING OUR binoculars to the right spot. It takes a moment but finally we see them: two endangered Bali starlings perched at the top of a tree. We can see their drooping, distinctive white crests, the blue patches around their eyes and their blacktipped wings. They are stunning. While estimates vary, only around 100 remain in the wild and these were likely released from captivity as part of the resort’s breeding program. I no longer resent getting up at 5:30 a.m. to go bird watching. West Bali National Park in the island’s far northwest makes for a different kind of back-tonature getaway. I’m staying at The Menjangan, seaside in the park, where aside from bird watching, horseback riding, diving, snorkeling, hiking and just beachside chilling are on offer. Getting here has taken me through an undertouristed part of Bali. Thanks to its proximity to Java, around the western port of Gilimanuk and across Bali’s flat northern coast, there’s more of a Muslim influence here than elsewhere on the island: curved domes of mosques grace the main road every now and again; I pass cycling school boys wearing embroidered skullcaps, and catch the wafting strains of a haunting call to prayer. From the resort, my snorkeling trip to nearby Menjangan Island, a highlight of the national park, begins with a 30-minute boat drive during which we spot a pod of dolphins jumping in the distance. Once in the water, our guide points out a massive pink stonefish crouched in the sands meters below. The soft corals of brilliant blues, greens and pinks plus the array of fish are astounding. At one point, I spy three distinct schools of fish, each on top of the other: swirling silver trevally, yellow and white angelfish, and another electric-blue type of fish. It’s like a swimming rainbow. At our next stop, we follow a massive drop-off along its edge with another dense coral garden and again loads of life. The sun comes out from behind a cloud and crepuscular rays light up the scene, fish glistening. There are trumpet fish, sea anemones, large grouper and parrotfish mauling the harder coral. It’s a thrilling bombardment of 134
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the natural kind; the silence of the water is a meditation in its own right, allowing for contemplation without any distractions. Back on board, we devour our lunch of pepes ikan, or fish steamed in banana leaves, before zipping back for a reflexology session in the mangrove-set spa, where I drift off listening to lapping waters and chirping birds. Sunsets are lazy affairs here; I take a lounger for happy hour, sipping on a rosella margarita and watching frolicking deer. “Menjangan” means deer in Indonesian and the park is home to Javan rusa and Indian muntjac (barking) species. A single jukung bobbing offshore makes for a perfect photo, the low tide shows the mangrove roots in their gnarled glory, and Java’s volcanoes glow pink-purple. I’m staying at a lodge off the beach, a few minutes away by the resort’s safari minibus. After dark, I clamber up to sit on the roof, spotlights ablaze to highlight any wildlife. During the day I see wild chickens, monkeys and more deer, but this evening I spot only frogs and insects. They may not be the most glamorous critters, but they bring the night to life with their humming stridulations and baritone harmonies. MY BUTLER SETTLES ME INTO MY ROOM. Though, that’s almost an inappropriate description of this vast, wooden, serene space overlooking a palette of greens and a rushing creek with a roar as soothing as surf. It seems cruel to advise leaving this sanctuary as soon as I’ve dropped my bags, but the butler suggests that I head straight to yoga, and I have to admire her efficiency in getting me to actively unwind; COMO Shambhala Estate is a wellness retreat, after all. Programs here cater to an individual’s needs; I decide to focus on exercising and eating only raw foods. So off I hustle to the yoga pavilion, which overlooks an undulating spread of landscaped gardens. A storm plays out on the horizon and the natural drama is so compelling that it’s hard to concentrate on our instructor, Mark. But our class falls into a rhythm of postures, deeply breathing the oxygen-heavy air, and I’m glad I’ve plunged right in. And Mark says: “It’s not about seeking happiness, or avoiding unhappiness. We can seek, instead, transcendence. We may be happy or unhappy, but this will pass. We can touch it and let it go if we can transcend it.” This is wisdom I’m ready to hear after spending an unusual amount of time pondering such matters in previous days, and there’s a joy in discovering a vague feeling you have being put into just the right words; most of the time, I have
Clockwise from top left: A Beach villa at The Menjangan; vegan pizza at COMO Shambhala; dreamy Spa Village; a Menjangan kayak in West Bali National Park.
Below: Horseback riding and snorkeling at The Menjangan. Opposite: Chilling beachside at The Menjangan.
to admit, bursts of philosophy during yoga class merely irritate me. I’ve been anything but irritated on this drift through the best of Bali’s natural offerings, let alone here at COMO. A fairyland-like lawn sprawls down to the Ayung River and mist-spray from a nearby waterfall creates a rainbow in the early morning sunshine. It feels mythical, a step away from the real world where the possibilities are endless. It’s a vision so singularly beautiful that I instinctively secrete it away, tuck it into a mental vault to unwrap and peer at later when the mundane of everyday life gets to be too much. We pass a spring that is the source of all water on the property—including swimming pools. It’s this native hydration not to mention 70 gardeners, a full fifth of the staff, that maintain this natural green. From the breakfast restaurant I can see green paddy skimming the top of the ridge opposite; the scene is awesome, in the older sense of the word. On evenings, the estate’s grounds become temple-like, flickering with candles lit in symmetrical lines, the grounds reverently hushed except for plump frogs thrumming in the lotus ponds. It’s perhaps my immersion in such Zen-like surrounds that leaves me not just open-minded at the prospect of a strictly raw diet, but also thoroughly enjoying it as well. A raw lasagna, for example, is a little green and red package bursting with flavor, layers of finely slice zucchini, semi-dried tomatoes, a creamy nut dressing, two kinds of pesto on the side and a watercress herb salad. A simple soup of almond, pine nuts and green herbs garnished with green grapes and flaked almonds has a wonderful depth. One evening I order a Caesar salad that comes with “nut cheese.” It sounds dreadful but it’s so good I’m soon Googling to see how I can make it myself at home—something I know I can
do with the beverages, at least. I attend a juicemaking class, and weeks later I’m still making the chef’s recommended 2 p.m. pick-me-up: a blend of orange, lime, turmeric, ginger, cayenne pepper and flaxseed oil. It’s a small thing, but a real life change, much like the after-effects of the deep tissue massage (with a facial, naturally) in which I ask for special attention to be given to releasing my hips. When I attend my next Bikram yoga class back home, I definitely feel more flexibility in my hip flexors; I’ve liberated new territory. In fitting with the Balinese dualistic view of the world (the black-and-white checked fabric used so often in temples is meant to demonstrate precarious equilibrium), where opposites are equally important, my time at COMO has been a blur of sumptuous exertion and relaxation, indulgence and abstinence—that’s balance, right? On my final morning, I’ve been pummeled, blasted and shot. My muscles are jelly after 45 minutes of intense aqua therapy in a warmed outdoor pool. Now wrapped and draped in several white fluffy towels, I recline on a lounge bed, depleted but blissed out, a cocoon of calmness gazing at birds fluttering from palm tree to palm tree. I’m afraid I’m very happy. And it’s going to be hard work to transcend it. ✚
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T L Guide
Bali
N
WEST BALI NATIONAL PARK
TEMBOK
PAYANGAN
SEMINYAK DENPASAR AIRPORT
STAY Spa Village Tembok Bali Jln. SingarajaAmlapura No. 100, Desa Tembok, Buleleng; 62362/32-033; spavillage resort.com; “School of Life” program, double, from US$340 per night. The Menjangan West Bali National Park, Jln. Raya Gilimanuk, Singaraja Km
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17, Buleleng; 62-362/94700; themenjangan.com; double from US$220 per night. COMO Shambhala Estate Banjar Begawan, Payangan; 62-361/978888; comohotels.com; “Discover Daily” program, doubles from US$800 per night.
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Volcanoes, paddies or farms, beaches, rivers or cliffs: Bali offers plenty of tranquil retreats in breathtaking natural surrounds. The short trip up Bali’s southwest coast to beachside Alila Soori offers sweeping views of volcanoes and paddies; once you arrive, rejuvenation time in the hushed spa is essential. Banjar Dukuh, Desa Kelating, Kerambitan, Tabanan; 62361/894-6388; alilahotels.com; doubles from US$650. It’s one of Bali’s older hotels, but the Amankila, backed by Mount Agung and set hillside on the east coast, draws loyal guests like bees to honey. While away time on the black-sand private beach, at the three-tiered pool or ensconced in classic luxury. Manggis; 62-363/41333; amanresorts.com; doubles from US$950. Nine-suite, riverside Fivelements offers a stunning riverside location with a world-class raw food and vegan restaurant and an array of holistic treatments. Puri Ahimsa Banjar Baturning, Mambal; 62361/469-260; fivelements.org; doubles from US$575. Set on the limestone cliffs of Bukit in the far south, Karma Kandara Resort offers spectacular views; book time at their sauna and private pool to savor one of Bali’s most amazing outlooks solo. Jln. Villa Kandara, Banjar Wijaya Kusuma, Ungasan; 62-361/848-2200; karmakandara.com; one-bedroom villas from US$760. In the cooler hills of Bali’s interior, stay in a bamboo hut on its own hill surrounded by spiky pineapples and rolling farmland at The Organic Farm Bali; roast marshmallows in a bonfire and the kids can sleep in their own tent. Jln. Munduk Lumbang Angseri, Baturiti; 62813/3894-3030; theorganicfarm bali.com; doubles from Rp4,840,000 for two nights.
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R R A I B F O N R U T E R T HE
Z T I The Grand Plage, in Biarritz.
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Clockwise from top left: Providence gallery and shop owner Antoine Piechaud in GuĂŠthary, just south of Biarritz; boats in GuĂŠthary; the Providence gallery; seafood for sale at the Biarritz market; surfing in Biarritz; linguine with mussels at the Beach House restaurant, in Anglet.
I
met a lot of people from Paris in Biarritz, and they all said the same thing. They were refugees. They were here because life in Paris was relentless, all business, too fast. But here was the ocean, and surfing, a resort town, a community. And yes, that could be said of many places but this one was different. This was not the Côte d’Azur. There were no mega-yachts floating in the harbor here, and there were no private beach clubs or trendy nightclubs or Lamborghinis stuck in traffic like you see in Cannes and St.-Tropez. This stretch of the Atlantic coast in the southwest of France—La Côte Basque—was a less polished place, a little wild, a little young. The landscape was stunning and the ocean was vast and powerful (hence all the surfers) and the general attitude was low-key bohemian. “I came here in 2005,” Antoine Piechaud says. “And I stayed.” Biarritz is that kind of place: scruffy, charming, and seductive. We were sitting in Providence, his art-gallery-surf-shopboutique-café in Guéthary, down the coast from Biarritz. Guéthary is set on a bluff, a pretty village with one main street, a sleepy café or two and a few restaurants, including Café Le Madrid, with a wide terrace overlooking the ocean. This is where people gather in the late afternoon for drinks and talk and an order of sardines or jambon cru. Antoine is a shaggy bearded, sleepy-eyed, baseball-hatwearing hipster. When he’s not running the gallery, he’s a music and video producer. Providence puts on more or less weekly shows of art and photography, and sells everything from lithographs to limited-edition board shorts to bottles of wine. There are surfboards against the wall. There are books
The pool at the Hôtel du Palais, in Biarritz.
and T-shirts and a few beautiful leather handbags designed by Angela Schmid, a young Swiss woman who also lives in Guéthary. “You should meet her,” Antoine says. He seemed to know everyone, and indeed, everything on display was somehow connected to the area, made by local craftspeople, or by small French surf brands, or collaborations between street artists and companies like Quiksilver. “Providence is not a brand,” Antoine says, “it’s not a gallery, it’s not a shop—it’s an idea.” He opened the place four years ago, and the point was to bring people together. “In the beginning, people looked at us like—what are you doing here? Why aren’t you selling ice cream?” But it wasn’t about selling anything, really. The new Biarritz surf culture, as broadly defined by Antoine and displayed in his shop, was the coming together of creative people in an idealistic, out-of-the-mainstream way. “There is history in Guéthary— Kandinsky came here in the twenties,” Antoine says. “This is not the beginning, it’s the rebirth.” Biarritz is an old-fashioned resort town fallen on a halfcentury or so of hard times, and now in the midst of a revival. The glory days were at the turn of the last century through the 1920’s and 30’s, when French, English, Spanish and Russian aristocrats summered here in grand style, in grand hotels set along the beach. There was the Carlton, the Continental, the Victoria, the Grand, the Angleterre, the Miramar and, of course, the Hôtel du Palais, which is today the only one left. By the 50’s most of the others had been converted to apartment buildings and the Palais was teetering on the edge of bankruptcy. T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
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It took decades for the comeback, led by a booming surfing culture. And yet the stately glamour of Biarritz is still very much present, nowhere more so than on the pool deck at the Palais, with its commanding view of the ocean, town and beach. The hotel was once an actual palace, built by Napoleon III in the 1850’s, an ornate, dark-red-and-cream in the neo–Louis XIII style. The cabanas, chaise longues and cocktail- and ice-bucket-bearing staff are overseen by the deeply tanned Jean-Claude, pool impresario, who shows us to our spot. He is exceedingly charming and energetic and also winningly ironical about his role. He’s been here a long time. “He knew Frank Sinatra,” someone says, and JeanClaude neither confirms nor denies it, just starts singing “Strangers in the Night” as he tosses towels on our chairs. My wife, friends and I order drinks and take turns taking the kids down the stairs and into the waves. One way or another, every day, we went to a beach. Some of them were mad carnivals of blazing heat and people and sand (the Grand Plage, for example), others were quiet, narrow strips backed by cliffs (just down the coast at the Plage Marbella). But in every case the water was a kind of absolution. The waves were all-encompassing, they could throw you 20 feet at a time if you caught them right. Every beach had a clearly marked area for swimming and another for surfing, and we would watch the row of surfers waiting for their waves, patiently paddling in place, anticipating that fleeting moment of glory when they’d stand up and ride. In the late afternoon the waves seemed to get bigger, and everyone would get in the water at the same time, crowds of people gathered in the surf waiting for the next big wave, the pure, visceral pleasure of the ocean.
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ike any self-respecting French town, Biarritz is full of excellent bakeries, confiseries, butchers, épiceries, food shops of all kinds. There is a covered market in the center of town, with steep, narrow streets leading up to it from the Port des Pêcheurs. Here were fishing boats and the kind of restaurants that
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T L Guide
Biarritz
N PARIS
BAY OF BISCAY
FRANCE BIARRITZ
SPAIN 0
400 KM
MEDITERR ANE AN SEA
STAY Hôtel du Palais Biarritz; hotel-du-palais.com; doubles from 555. Hôtel Le Madrid Guéthary; lemadrid.com; doubles from 70. VILLA RENTALS Hosted Villas Rentals by the
week, including access to a local guide. hostedvillas.com. EAT Beach House 26 Ave. des Dauphins, Anglet; beachhouse anglet.com; meal for two 60. Café Le Madrid 563 Ave. du Général de Gaulle, Guéthary; lemadrid.com; meal for two 100. Heteroclito Chemin de la Plage, Guéthary; 33-5/59-54-98-92; meal for two 60. SHOP Maison Adam 27 Place Georges Clemenceau, Biarritz; maisonadam.fr. Providence Guéthary Place Paul Jean Toulet, Guéthary; providenceguethary.com.
served grand, three-tiered trays of fruits de mer. In Basque country, a Spanish influence and energy—especially regarding food—drift across the border. We ate grilled fish, marinated anchovies, olives, and tiny hot peppers stuffed with tuna. The traditional local dessert is a dense, crumbly almond tarte with a bit of cream or cherries at its center, called a gâteau basque. The best were at a place called Maison Adam, an institution founded in 1660; today, they’re packaged in beautiful boxes with ornate, 1920’s-style typography. The food in Biarritz is casual, fresh, eaten outdoors whenever possible, on the way to or from the beach. Our favorite restaurant, the Beach House, was in Anglet, just north of town. The surroundings here have none of Biarritz’s classicism or Guéthary’s charm—the generic buildings look as if they were built last week, condos set right up against the beach. But the scene has a certain sunbaked, southernCalifornia appeal, complete with ticky-tacky surf shops. The beach here is vast and wide, the landscape flatter. The Beach House is a light-filled, ramshackle joint with lots of shade, green plants, and tables out back next to a small swimming pool. It is open for lunch, a place to escape the heat, and was built for long evenings after a day in the water. The restaurant opened two summers ago; the owners are three old friends who know each other from the international surf and snowboard scene. The idea was to create a home base, says Kinou, the woman who runs it—“a chill-out place for family and friends.” She’d come from Paris 10 years ago, and had seen the changes in Biarritz. “When I first arrived, all the big surf brands were here. But now there are many small companies, artist collectives doing small exhibitions, galleries, a lot of new energy.” The Beach House is a hub of that energy. And once the preternaturally chic waiters started bringing our food—burgers for the kids, linguine crustacés and curried chicken for the adults—it was clear this was something else too: a great restaurant, perfectly suited to its location. We found ourselves drawn back to Guéthary. I enjoyed the teeming crowds of the Grand Plage in Biarritz. And the wide-open sprawl and endless beaches in Anglet had their own epic qualities. But down the coast we had some of the smaller beaches all to ourselves. At low tide, expanses of rocky terrain would reveal themselves; at high tide we’d be pressed up against the cliff. The rhythm of the water took over our days, and the rhythm of our days turned on the late afternoon stroll through town, passing by Antoine’s gallery with its pirate-ship logo beneath the Providence sign, passing by the crowds at Le Madrid, stopping for a drink at Heteroclito, a bar with a terrace overlooking the ocean. Heteroclito is a Guéthary institution, open for 22 years, a bright, colorful place with a hippie-junk-shop aesthetic, overseen with Gallic cool by proprietor Patrick Espagnet. He’s old-school, a surfer, and has seen it all. “Yes, today this is a place à la mode,” he says with a shrug, referring to La Côte Basque. “But the spirit is still the same.” The sun was setting, the light was softer, and we could see a few surfers out on the water, catching the last waves of the day. He was right. We could feel the spirit of the place, and it was here. ✚
Inside Heteroclito, a bar in GuĂŠthary.
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WE CAN ALL AGREE: ASIA’S REMOTE ATOLLS AND BUSY BEACHES ARE PHOTOGENIC. SO T+L ASKED SOME OF OUR PROFESSIONAL SHUTTERBUGS TO SHARE THEIR FAVORITE SHORES TO TAKE A SWIM—AND A SNAP.
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t h e day - t r i p p e r
KOH TACHAI, THAILAND “This small, beautiful Similan island an hour from Khao Lak has no hotels, bungalows or noisy tourists. It’s quiet, great for diving and full of chicken crabs. A day trip is enough to burn it into your memory.” —thar athorn sit thitham
t h e c a s t away
NORTH ARI ATOLL, MALDIVES “The Maldives is so spectacular that it’s hard to pick one island that’s the most special. But I love the blues surrounding this one, and the perspective gives the impression of kayaking up to a perfect little uninhabited spot.”—sebastia n p osingis/t h reeblin dmen
the trendset ter
SHIMODA, JAPAN “Every summer, all the young Tokyoites take the train here, the closest beach, which is open July 15 to August 15. This bunch of gyarus (girls) are as stylish as they would be if they were hanging out in Shibuya. Their suntans were probably obtained in a salon prior to arriving.”—morga n ommer
the idealist
MENTAWAI ISLANDS, INDONESIA “Aside from photography, surfing is my big passion. I go to Mentawai every year to restore my energy and spirit— the incredible waves make me feel grateful to be alive.” —shinsu k e m atsu k awa
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t h e wav e r i d e r
SHIKOKU, JAPAN
“A typhoon had passed through in the night and I got up really early the following morning to head to the beach. You learn to read the weather, and I knew that after the rains there would be an incredibly beautiful sunrise.”—s.m.
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t h e s u n d ow n e r
LANGKAWI “I love how the rays give the scene a sense of magic. This is Bon Ton Resort and, at the end of a hectic day, it was great to be able to enjoy such a peaceful moment.” —l au ry n ish a k
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t h e c u lt u r e v u lt u r e
VARKALA, INDIA “This long beach in Kerala is sheltered by a tall, rocky backdrop of cliffs where brahminy kites nest. On an early morning stroll away from the crowds, you can see the eagles come in flocks and dive down to capture fish—a moment of true natural beauty.”—kit c h a n
t h e a n i m a l l ov e r
HOPKINS ISLAND, AUSTRALIA
“I had just been cage-diving among great white sharks and, though it was one of the most incredible experiences of my life, it was in stark contrast to follow it up with a swim with these friendly critters. Australian sea lions are known as the labradors of the ocean for the way they love playing with humans.” — ia n l loy d neubauer
the per fection ist
DIMAKYA ISLAND, PHILIPPINES “It’s almost the perfect prototype of an island paradise. You can walk around the whole island in about 30 minutes. From this beach you can step into crystal-clear water and find yourself swimming among a school of resident jacks and turtles with the backdrop of a beautiful coral reef.” —fr a ncisco guerrero
the i n tr epid ex plor er
ULITHI ATOLL, MICRONESIA “One of the most beautiful spots in the archipelago, Ulithi still has no electricity or running water. Because of its sand beach and secure reef, maisu (Polynesian canoes) can pull right up on the shore and tie down at coconut trees. When this happens, or any boat arrives, it’s such a big event that the kids do not have to go to school.” —philipp engel horn
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A shoreside souvenir shop in Taormina, Italy. Opposite: Looking down at the pool deck on Oceania Cruises’ Riviera.
T ISIN U R C G
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Three buzz-worthy new ships from Oceania, Celebrity and Princess are plying the Mediterranean. But which one is right for you? We sent jane wooldridge to test the waters. Read on for the breakdown. photographed by andrea wyner T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
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OCEANIA RIVIERA ncient cliff-side villages, artisanal food, history at every turn...there’s more than one reason almost 20 percent of global cruise itineraries sail the Med. Though all three of these ships distill the best of the region in their ports of call, each brings its own offerings to the table— including restaurants and art to rival what you’ll find on land. 156
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NUMBER OF PASSENGERS
1,250. GREAT FOR Food and culture cognoscenti. INTERIORS With its marble lobby and grand staircase inset with Lalique crystal medallions, Riviera feels like a luxury condo. In the staterooms, you’ll find 1,000-thread-count bedding and bathrooms equipped with that all-too-rare cruise amenity: a full-size tub. (It’s not your average bubble bath, either. The pink bath crystals are made from 250 million-yearold Himalayan salt.) THE FOOD Wagyu-beef burgers with black-truffle sauce? Spicy duck-andwatermelon salad? Riviera has a full eight restaurants
by Jacques Pépin. All meals are included in your fare. SHORE EXCURSIONS Leave hungry. Riviera’s small-group culinary tours go to Michelin-starred restaurants, a Venetian chocolatier and a generations-old Santorini wine and olive-oil producer. UNEXPECTED PERK In-room mini-bars are stocked with unlimited free nonalcoholic drinks (including European ginger brews). ITINERARIES 7- to 15-night sailings from Athens, Istanbul, Rome and Venice. SAMPLE FARE 7 nights from Athens to Istanbul from US$2,499 per person, double; two-for-one fares may be available early. oceaniacruises.com.
Practice your putting under the Sicilian sun aboard the Riviera, or try out the driving range. Opposite, from left: The pool deck; along the streets of Taormina, Sicily.
CELEBRITY SILHOUETTE NUMBER OF PASSENGERS 2,886. GREAT FOR Art and design enthusiasts. INTERIORS Celebrity’s Solstice-class ships are contemporary museums at sea, including hundreds of cuttingedge works by the likes of Anish Kapoor and John Baldessari. Adam D. Tihany’s Deco-style Grande Cuvée dining room has a Vegasinspired wine tower.
The Celebrity Silhouette, docked in the ancient walled port of Valletta, Malta. Opposite, from left: Shore excursions manager Bonnie Ewer on the Royal Princess; the Royal Princess in Barcelona.
Staterooms are surprisingly spacious (as large as 53 square meters), with leather banquettes and ample storage space. THE FOOD At the reservations-only Qsine, one of eight specialty restaurants, guests create their own global culinary adventure on the iPad menu (don’t miss the sea-bassceviche “martinis” or the lobster-and-
escargot fritters). Rather eat en plein air? At the Lawn Club Grill, barbecue your own red snapper and flatbread. SHORE EXCURSIONS
Soar over Tuscan vineyards and walled towns in a hot-air balloon, or hike to the top of Mount Vesuvius for views across Pompeii’s ruins and the Bay of Naples. UNEXPECTED PERK
Services such as
acupuncture and medi peels are now available, thanks to a newly unveiled partnership with Canyon Ranch. ITINERARIES 11- to 14-night cruises to ports in Croatia, Greece, Israel, Italy and Turkey. SAMPLE FARE 11 nights from Rome to Venice, from US$2,199 per person, double, for a Veranda cabin. celebritycruises.com.
R OYA L PRINCESS
NUMBER OF PASSENGERS 3,560. GREAT FOR Multigenerational
trips. Grown-ups love the adults-only Sanctuary area, hammams and whiskey tastings. For the kids? Dancing fountains by the pool and laser tag. INTERIORS All cabins are fitted with off-white leather chairs and headboards. As on many Princess ships, both the bath and closet are partitioned from the main cabin for privacy. THE FOOD Options for all ages. Try Horizon Bistro, where turbot wrapped in pancetta is served
one night, Brazilian churrasco the next. Tuck into artichoke soufflé and lamb chops at Sabatini’s or hand-tossed Neapolitan pizza at Alfredo’s (it’s pure Napoli). SHORE EXCURSIONS In Venice, 25 guests on the after-hours tour of St. Mark’s Basilica have the mosaic-and-gold domes to themselves. In the south of France, oenophiles can sip vintage rosés at Bandol’s 16th-century Domaine de Souviou; perfume lovers can learn how to blend custom
fragrances at the Aix-enProvence street market. UNEXPECTED PERK The bi-level SeaWalk promenade, cantilevered 8.5 meters off the ship’s side, has 2.5-centimeterthick glass floors and offers panoramic views of the sea. SAMPLE FARE 12-night Barcelona-to-Venice itinerary aboard Regal Princess, a sister ship to Royal Princess that debuted last month. (In summer 2014, Royal Princess is sailing the Baltic.) From US$2,239 per person, double. princess.com.
ROUTES + PORTS
Mediterranean itineraries for all three ships, plotted.
VENICE
FRANCE TOULON
LIVORNO
ITALY
Oceania Riviera
ROME BARCELONA
Celebrity Silhouette
CIVITAVECCHIA
SPAIN
SICILY
Regal Princess
KAVALA
NAPLES
ISTANBUL
GREECE
TURKEY EPHESUS KUȘADASI
ATHENS
VALLETTA
CANEA
MALTA MEDITERRANEAN SEA
CRETE
RHODES MYKONOS SANTORINI
Our Definitive Guide to
Tastemakers appreciate the shiny views from Claret Wine Bar.
Around the Malaysian capital, Mark Lean steps beyond the glitzy rooftop bars, mean martinis and killer views to uncover a city full of charms to the many cultures that call it home. Photographed by Kit Chan
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Ampang
Mont Kiara Petaling Jaya
Bangsar Baru
Bukit Bintang
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Clockwise from left: Wavywalled Aloft; the golden Mandarin Oriental; the storied Majestic.
4 KM
Lay of the Land Bukit Bintang The city’s main shopping thoroughfare has malls like Pavilion, where you can take the air-conditioned elevated walkway to Suria KLCC mall and Petronas Twin Towers. Bangsar In this suburb popular with expats, there’s a mix of eateries and shops plus a Sunday evening market with delicious street food. Petaling Jaya Most locals live in PJ. The SS2 neighborhood is famous for all-you-can-eat durian buffets (duriansss2. com) at late-night stalls. Mont Kiara Visit here for the Publika Gallery (publika.com.my), a mall that combines art installations with quirky shops, restaurants and bars. Ampang Find most embassies on these wide and leafy streets. The restaurants and bars offer an alternative to the gridlocked weekend party scene in central KL. Getting Around Taxi fares are inconsistently priced. Hail one at a hotel, and insist on the meter.
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Stay From hip to classic, five properties to check out. ALOFT Candy-striped rugs, comfy magenta sofas, colorful pop art and pool tables turn this unconventional business hotel into one of the city’s hippest spots to hold a meeting or hang out. Or both. Its handy location, on the doorstep of KL Sentral, the transport hub, ensures that you steer away from traffic when heading out, and to the airport. Jln. Stesen Sentral; 603/27231188; aloftkualalumpursentral. com; RM323. THE MAJESTIC This storied 300-room property with a wing built in 1932 matches Art Deco glamour with interiors decked out in refined beige and burnished brown hues, and freestanding bathtubs in rooms. In the evenings, pop into the chandeliered bar with its white tuxedoed pianist and grand
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piano, for a refreshing gin and tonic, garnished with a slice of cool cucumber. Jln. Sultan Hishamuddin; 603/2785-8000; majestickl.com; RM450.
GRAND HYATT In one of KL’s newest openings, the rooms here check all the high-tech boxes: LED televisions; MP3 docking stations; and, for privacy, LCG cubes in bathing areas. On Sundays, join the high society for champagne brunch at Thirty8, the restaurant with eye-popping views of the city. Jln. Pinang; 603/2182-1234; kualalumpur. grand.hyatt.com; RM600. MANDARIN ORIENTAL Kitted out in tasteful gold furnishings and varnished cane chairs, this hotel marries comfort
with classic Malay design. The views from the club lounge are a bonus, with the Petronas Twin Towers just next door. Dress to impress at MO Bar, popular with socialites and corporate types. Jln. Pinang; 603/2380-8888; mandarinoriental.com; RM569.
SEKEPING TERASEK Smooth granite flooring, aluminum-caged beds and nets to keep mosquitos away are sure signs that this five-room residence isn’t your typical hotel. It’s better than it sounds, really. The bare environs are offset by lush greenery, funky avianinspired murals and a manicured rooftop garden, ideal for reading a book and catching some rays. 42A Jln. Terasek, Bangsar; sekeping.com/terasek; RM230.
Hotel prices represent starting rates for double occupancy.
Shop
Stylish Malaysian designers and one-of-a-kind stores.
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Farah Khan A label by one of Malaysia’s most stylish and best-dressed personalities, Farah Khan is all about maximized glamour. The form-flattering beaded column dresses, hand-sewn by Southeast Asian artisans, have found a following with celebrities like Kimora Lee Simmons and Guiliana Rancic. The Melium Galleria, G17-18, GF, Suria KLCC; 603/2382-9988; farahkhan.com.
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KitaKita Here, you’ll have access to a finely curated range of Malaysian-themed accessories, home wares, and curios from some of the country’s finest artisans, all in one shop. Our favorites: batik print elephant soft toys, artful rattan bags and baskets, as well as vibrant hand-painted bead costume jewelry that veer towards the right side of kitsch. G 1.10, 1 Jln. Medan Setia, Bukit Damansara; 603/2096-1323; kitakita.my.
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The Extra Piece Jewelry designer Natrah Omar’s design manifesto emphasizes contrasting themes and materials. Think clunky chains, paired with spikes, pearls and crystals—a mesh of glam rock and American rustic inspirations.
The city’s fashion insiders clamor for her bipolar baubles. Great Eastern Mall, Level 2, Lot 10-2, Jln. Ampang; facebook.com/The. Extra.Piece.
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Alia Bastamam Alia Bastamam’s creations, including modern interpretations of the classic kimono, all point towards a bright future for both the designer and Malaysian fashion. At her Damansara Heights atelier, Bastamam possesses a clever measure of what women want to wear— take-your-breath-away evening stunners, and resort outfits that look just as dazzling on the beach as they would at a cocktail party. 14 Jln. Chempenai, Bukit Damansara; 603/2095-3232; aliabastamam.com.
From top: Menswear from head to toe at 15sheets; Farah Khan is all maximized glamour; textile at KitaKita.
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15sheets Men’s fashion in the city has recently been given a dapper update with places like 15sheets stocking hard-to-find brands like Paper Denim Cloth, Descendant of Thieves, H by Hudson and Stolen Riches. Stop by for a coffee at the shop’s café annex, and watch the Bangsar scenesters stroll past. GF, 9 Jln. Telawi 2, Bangsar; 603/2201-3760; facebook. com/15sheets.
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See Do BRICKFIELDS Just minutes from KL Sentral is this large South Indian community. The mom and pop stores sell everything from saris to spices. Pop over to Annalakshmi, a vegetarian restaurant at the nearby Temple of Fine Arts with lunch and dinner buffets. Payment is by donation, so you decide how much to contribute for your meal. tfa.org.my. Strolling South Indian Brickfields.
Three places to get your culture on in the capital.
ISLAMIC ARTS MUSEUM As the region’s largest Islamic arts repository, this 12-gallery museum features more than 7,000 artifacts from India, China and Southeast Asia. Highlights include religious manuscripts and ancient calligraphic coins as well as Kashmiri shawls with intricate plant designs. iamm.org.my.
MALAYSIAN PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA The Petronas Philharmonic Hall’s convenient location next to the Suria KLCC mall means that it’s possible to just drop by impromptu for a matinee or evening performance. mpo.com.my.
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Drink
Eat
Omakase + Appreciate There’s no signage at this joint that’s fast becoming the worst kept secret for the well-connected. Inside are winning cocktails such as the elderflower martini and vodka collins. Ming Annexe Building, 9 Jln. Ampang; 603/21480122; drinks for two RM80.
Clockwise from left: Shake it up at Hit & Mrs; dining at Old China Café; Barlai is in a coverted house; homemade crab pasta at perennial favorite Nerovivo.
Funky new openings, plus a couple of old favorites. BIJAN Chef Zulkifli Razali’s careful renditions of treasured family recipes make a trip to this sedate bungalow restaurant— owned by sisters Lissa and Way Cheng Yeoh, and up the hill from party street Changkat Bukit Bintang— worthwhile. Try the turmeric chicken with tender morsels of jackfruit; stir-fried asparagus in a zingy prawn paste; as well as flavorsome duck rendang, slow-cooked with coconut milk and pestle-pounded spices. 3 Jln. Ceylon; 603/2031-3575; bijanrestaurant.com; RM200. OLD CHINA CAFÉ Straits Chinese cuisine (a mix of Chinese and
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Malay cooking styles and ingredients) can be tricky to perfect. But the chefs here have it covered. Adventurous eaters should opt for desserts like sago with caramelized palm sugar, and durian in coconut milk. Added attraction: the nostalgic elements in this pre-war shop house, where ceiling fans whirl above marble top wooden tables, flanked by feng shui mirrors that amplify good vibes. 11 Jln. Balai Polis; 603/2072-5915; oldchina.com.my; lunch for two RM80. KAMPACHI BY EQUATORIAL Check out the floor-to-ceiling glass-front Kampachi, located at the Norman Foster-designed Troika, for upscale Japanese
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fare. Reservations are recommended as this spot, popular with movers and shakers, fills for both lunch and dinner. The Troika, Jln. Binjai; 603/2181-2282; kampachi.com.my; RM300. NEROVIVO This modern trattoria remains one of the buzziest Italians in town, and is a top choice to impress clients or a date. The menu takes inspiration from both northern and southern Italy with more than 20 pizzas made in the wood-fire oven, as well as a la carte dishes like the Sicilian risotto with tiger prawns and green asparagus, and
the charcoal-grilled T-bone. 3A Jln. Ceylon; 603/2070-3120; nerovivo.com; RM250. HIT & MRS Its stylish, reimagined 1970’s interiors of a suburban Malaysian home— wicker chairs, jade tiles, chintzy cushions, a bold tropical wallpaper centerpiece—get the thumbs up from KL’s trendy set. Likewise the food that includes winners like butternut pumpkin risotto, and lamb loin served with pickled purple carrots, carrot mousse and Dukkah nuts. 15-15A Lorong Kurau, Taman Bukit Pantai; 603/22823571; thebiggroup.co/ hitandmrs; RM250.
Restaurant rates represent approximate prices for dinner for two, unless noted.
Providence The current place to be seen at 2 a.m. on Saturday. The crowd? Models and TV personalities. Order? A bottle of champagne, naturally. The Intermark, 182 Jln. Tun Razak; 6010/2527678; drinks for two RM100. Heli Lounge Bar After the last helicopter lifts off presunset, lounge chairs pop up on the roof of Menara KH, turning this helipad into a spot to chill out to a blend of funky house tracks. 34F, Menara KH, Jln. Sultan Ismail; facebook.com/heliloungebar; drinks for two RM80. Claret Wine Bar At this interior design dream, the city’s tastemakers appreciate the wine selections and the shiny views. 23A, Tower B, The Troika, KLCC; 603/21620886; troikaskydining.com; drinks for two RM60. Barlai A house/art gallery/ bar for theater types. The balmy terrace has antiquated off-white wooden louvers and mosaic tiles. 3 Jln. Sin Chew Kee, Bukit Bintang; 603/21417850; drinks for two RM70.
From left: Alfresco drinks along Tengkat Tong Shin; mango salad at My Elephant; the Royal Selangor Visitor Centre.
Local Take
C L O C K W I S E F R O M C E N T E R T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F M Y E L E P H A N T; C O U R T E S Y O F R O YA L S E L A N G O R V I S I T O R C E N T R E ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E M A J E S T I C M A L A C C A . I L L U S T R AT I O N S B Y W A S I N E E C H A N TA K O R N
Three insiders share their go-to places in the city. FERHAT NAZRI-AZIZ
SHALINI
YONG YOON LI
Head of marketing and PR, luxury fashion and lifestyle company The Melium
GANENDRA
Executive director, Royal Selangor International
“I love the jazz nights at No Black Tie (noblacktie.com.my). Their pop-up collaborations with the cool team behind supper club Cantina Modena always make for a fun night out. It’s all about the amazing combination of the food, the crowd and the music. For Chinese food, head to Restoran Muar (6G, Tengkat Tong Shin; 603/2144-2072). The butter kailan is a winner. For a great crowd and ambience, you can never go wrong with drinks at Claret Wine Bar in The Troika. Explore the beautiful Lake Gardens in the morning or late afternoon. I cycle there on weekends.”
Trips Out of Town
Gallery owner, Shalini Ganendra Fine Art
“Petaling Jaya is a must-visit with its restaurants, galleries, stalls and markets. Oriental Pavilion (oriental restaurants.com.my) is a sprawling, busy and noisy restaurant with tasty dim sum. My Elephant (myelephant. com.my), a non-descript Thai spot, serves a delicious mango salad—make a reservation as it is usually crowded. There’s also Raju’s (Jln. Chantek, off Jln. Gasing, Petaling Jaya; 603/ 79561361), a casual local South Indian eatery with an outdoor dining space that’s shaded by tall trees. A simple tosai with curry gravy works best, washed down with fresh coconut water.”
Fraser’s Hill Head to this highland retreat, a two-hour drive from Kuala Lumpur, for its cooler climate and diverse nature reserves. Trek one of eight trails, or opt for a game of golf at the nine-hole Royal Fraser’s Hill Golf Club that skirts a pristine rainforest. frasershill.info.
Batu Caves A 30-minute train ride from KL Sentral gets you to this rocky outcrop, the country’s epicenter of Hinduism. Climb up to the Cathedral Cave. For lunch, head to the restaurants below for cheap, authentic South Indian staples like banana leaf rice, dosas and masala tea.
“Restaurants aren’t restricted to the city center anymore; there are interesting spots in suburbia too. A favorite: Mei Keng Fatt Seafood Restaurant
(meikengfatt.com), popular for Marmite crabs, salted egg crabs, and spicy clams. My workplace at the Royal Selangor Visitor Centre (visitorcentre.royal selangor.com) has a wonderful café so I find every reason to hold meetings there. For elegance Cantaloupe (troikaskydining.com) and Cilantro (cilantrokl.com), in the city, never disappoint. Getting around isn’t easy. I recommend a private chauffeur. At around RM300 a day, it’s affordable.”
Malacca The unesco World Heritage site is two hours away by car. Stroll down historic Jonker Street, which is lined with antique stores. If you’re spending the night, stay at The Majestic Malacca (majesticmalacca.com), a restored 54-room property on the banks of the Malacca River.
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The Majestic Malacca.
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Last Look
Photographed by Ian Lloyd Neubauer
Papua New Guinea
Movers and shakers In southeastern Alotau—site, incidentally, of the first World War II Japanese land defeat—dancers are accompanied by the beat of the lizard-skin kundu drum.
Pants-off dance-off! In sing-sings, Guinean tribes gather to show off their distinct cultural traditions, dance and music. The largest such events annually are the Mt. Hagen show in August and the Morobe Show, above, in October.
A fiery hello The dragon dance is the traditional welcome ceremony of Watam village, near the mouth of the Sepik River on the north coast. This head dancer leads 11 others in greeting guests.
No boar-ing performance Pigs are status symbols in Papua New Guinea. Tusks are worn to show rank and wealth, and, during sing-sings, are clutched between the teeth to give the illusion that they’re growing from the mouth.
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SOUTHEAST ASIA / JULY 2014
Digital Destination Guide CAPITAL NIGHTS BOOMTOWN DANANG SAIGON OR HANOI?
The Best of
vietnam
Editor’s Note
July 2014
WHERE TO FIND ME
chrisk@mediatransasia.com @CKucway on Twitter
V
ietnam, that long, narrow country that comes with so much history, has been the next big thing for two decades now. Visits to Hanoi, Saigon or any number of coastal towns are still the highlight of many a travel itinerary, no matter how often you’ve visited. The trick here is that this country, a place where being weighed down with history could be so easy a path on your trip, is never reinventing itself; it’s not necessarily into branding. Instead, Vietnam is simply moving ahead. Where bicycles once glided by along Hanoi’s streets, they’ve been replaced by scooters and, in some cases, private cars. What stays the same, no matter how often you visit, is the excitement of that next great local meal, whether it’s on a sidewalk or in a restored colonial villa. That’s what’s apparent in this collection of our latest articles about Vietnam. The profound differences between Hanoi and Saigon come through loud and clear in a feature-length look at the country’s two urban rivals—thing is, the two have always been at odds on so many levels. Both make for a perfect weekend getaway, a great stop for a family or an eating itinerary that will have you planning a return visit before you head home. There’s more than the cities to Vietnam, an idea that is anchored in our look at Danang, which has embraced luxury resorts like few other places in Asia yet still retains that flair that only Vietnam can pull off. Take another step beyond and you’ll come across stops like Hoi An and Phu Quoc, again, places where the time-honored sits next to the luxury of the 21st-century. That, in a nutshell, is Vietnam today. —c h r i s t o p h e r k u c way
The T+L Code Travel + Leisure editors, writers and photographers are the industry’s most reliable sources. While on assignment, they travel incognito whenever possible and do not take press trips or accept free travel of any kind.
VIETNAM* * BEST OF By Lien Hoang
STAY Amanoi For its first property in Vietnam, Aman went entirely its own way, to an unspoiled rural haven an hour south of Nha Trang. The 36 guest pavilions and villas sprawl across a jungle peninsula in Nui Chua National Park, surrounded by the East Sea and dotted with impossibly free-standing giant boulders. Do not miss the gorgeous 4
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Acrobatics at AO Show.
Heady talk at Imagine Café.
The firey and fabulous Dragon Bridge.
Sophisticated fresh tapas at Vesper.
Pilates studio or sunrise yoga in the lakeside sala. Vinh Hy Village, Ninh Hai District, Ninh Thuan Province; amanresorts.com; doubles from US$900. Pullman Saigon Centre Purple legs protruding from a wall, mesh bunnies and birds dangling from the ceiling—the eclectic new Pullman fuses these funky elements with a classic ambience, while the floorto-ceiling windows brighten up the joint. 148 Tran Hung Do, Q1, Saigon; 84-8/3914-1489; pullmanhotels.com; doubles from US$109. SEE AO Show Cirque de Saigon? A great way into the city’s iconic Opera House is buying a ticket to AO, an acrobatic mix of modern dance, traditional music, and gravity-challenging stunts using such instruments as bamboo rods and tightropes. 7 Cong Truong Lam Son, Q1, Saigon; 84-12/4518-1188; aoshowsaigon. com; tickets from VND630,000. Dragon Bridge In Vietnam, dragons are perennially lucky. Rarely, though, are they so large, lifelike, and, well, useful. To celebrate the 38th anniversary of the Communist capture of the Central Coast, the Da Nang River was spanned by a six-lane bridge in the shape of a giant, brightly lit dragon. The structure, which breathes real fire on the weekends, was built by an American firm. Talk about scorching irony. Cau Rong, Danang.
SHOP Vincom Mega Mall Royal City The biggest underground shopping center in Asia has luxury brands and hundreds of restaurants, of course, but the defining features are the indoor water park, and Vietnam’s first international standard ice rink. No wonder the owner, Pham Nhat Vuong, was the first Vietnamese to make Forbes’ list of billionaires. 72A Nguyen Trai. Thanh Xuan Dist. Hanoi; 844/6276-7799; royalcity.com.vn. ✚
FROM TOP: COURTESY OF AO SHOW; COURTESY OF IMAGINE CAFE; COURTESY OF GE T T Y IMAGES; COURTESY OF VESPER
EAT & DRINK The Hungry Pig Mmmm… bacon. This too-cute café serves up pork in droves: on bagels and baguettes, in salads and sausages, and of course in your full English breakfast. 144 Cong Quynh, Q1, Saigon; 84-8/3836-4533; lunch for two VND200,000. Vesper This sophisticated cocktail bar along the Saigon River is one of the few places in the city to serve tapas. Pop by on a weekend afternoon and you might get drafted into a competitive game of corn-hole. 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Saigon; 84-8/3822-9698; drinks for two VND300,000. Imagine Café Intellectuals gather at Imagine Café for its range of books and its intimate discussions with writers and scholars. On the main road to the airport, it’s an easy stop on your way into town. 58 Ho Bieu Chanh, Phu Nhuan Dist., Saigon; 84-90/9560105; drinks for two VND44,000. Song Xanh Café Don’t let this coffee shop’s location adjacent to the backpacker district turn you off; the vibe is decidedly less hedonistic, and more heady. Social entrepreneurs and activists gather in the free meeting room, immersing themselves in the funky, recycled seating and ornaments. 64 Ho Hao Hon St., Q1, Saigon; 84-8/3838-9900; cafe.songxanh.vn; drinks for two VND60,000.
Deals
T+L RE A D E R S PECI A LS
THIS MONTH’S BEST DEALS From a honeymoon-worthy beach to a UNESCO World Heritage town, here are a few of Vietnam’s most precious gems.
A Grand Luxury room at Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi.
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HANOI So Gourmet from Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi (sofitel. com), an award-winning French colonial-style hotel in the city’s French Quarter. The Deal A stay in a Historical Wing’s Grand Luxury room. The Highlight Daily 60-dollar-credit for food and beverages. Cost From US$310, double, ongoing. Savings 19 percent. SAIGON Stay Cool with Summer Deal from Caravelle Hotel (caravellehotel.com), a prestigious hotel, home to foreign embassies and news bureaux in the past but now a modern address. The Deal Three nights in a Deluxe room. The
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Highlights Thirty-three percent discounts on Best Available Rates, plus unlimited in-room Internet access. Cost From US$416 (US$139 per night), double, through September 8. Savings 33 percent. HOI AN Stay Longer, Save More from Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa (victoriahotels.asia), a fishing village-like stay with small streets, water ponds and village houses with clay-tiled roofs 5 kilometers away from the UNESCO World Heritage town. The Deal Four nights in a River View room. The Highlight Twenty-five percent discount for a stay of four nights and more.
Cost From US$640 (US$160 per night), double, through December 22. Savings 25 percent. DANANG Summer package from Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa (hyatt.com), with 27 private-pool villas, 95 residences and a quiet stretch of white, sandy beach. The Deal Two nights in a Twin room. The Highlights VND1,000,000 food and beverage credits per stay, an hour access to Camp Hyatt for two children and 20 percent savings at VIE Spa. Cost From VND7,740,314 (VND3,870,157 per night), double, through September 14. Savings More than 30 percent.
COURTESY OF SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI
NHA TRANG Honeymoon Indulgence from Sunrise Nha Trang Beach Hotel & Spa (sunrisenhatrang.com.vn), a colonial-style hotel with 120 Nha Trang Bay-facing rooms. The Deal Two nights in a Seaview Superior room. The Highlights A complimentary upgrade to a Deluxe room, an hour of body treatment for two, a candle-lit dinner by the pool, 10 percent discount at all food and beverage outlets, 10 percent discount on all tour services and 10 percent discount on spa services. Cost From VND6,900,000 (VND3,450,000 per night), double, through December 20. Savings 28 percent.
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weekends
CON DAO
From Saigon
Traditional fishing on Con Dao island.
Beach style at The Sanctuary.
HO TRAM
Now usurping kite-surfing capital Mui Ne’s grip on the hearts of Saigon-dwellers needing a road-trippable beach, Ho Tram (a three-hour drive away) has so far managed to stay rustic and under-the-radar—no small feat considering the opening last year of The Grand (thegrandhotramstrip.com; VND3,579,000), the country’s first Vegas-style casino and resort. After a bit of glitz and gambling—and, with a Greg Norman-designed course set to open in January, golfing—overload, head back to the stunning Southern Californiastyle four-bedroom manse you and 10 pals rented for the weekend. Never has Vietnam seen a more aptly named private community than The Sanctuary (sanctuaryresidences. com.vn; villas from VND11,865,000 per night), which sits on a long, clean, hawker-free beach. The front walls of all the villas accordion open onto their private pools, so everyone can do their thing and still stay together: rock out or relax to the sea breezes, jetski or banana boat out on the ocean, grill up steaks you brought from Saigon and seafood you bought in the village market. What better way to bond with your besties?
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DALAT
This beyond-green, chill (in both senses of the word) mountain town 1,500 meters above sea level and a 60-minute flight from Saigon is the quintessential colonial hill station: centered on a lake and surrounded by mountains of fir trees, vineyards, orchards and farms, all of which you can admire from above in the lengthy cable-car gondolas. Check-in old school to Ana Mandara Villas (anamandara-resort.com; VND1,864,351), a smattering of turreted mini-chateaux with claw-foot tubs and fireplaces for those cool nights. The grande dame Dalat Palace (dalatresorts.com; VND2,500,000) serves spot-on high-tea and is smack in the center of town, giving you easy access to the eccentric Gaudi-esque Crazy House tree house/ jungle gym, the adorable lake-top swan pedal-boats, and the Dalat Palace Golf Club, Vietnam’s oldest and loveliest 18 holes. —j e n i n n e l e e - s t . j o h n
Dalat Palace.
C LOC K WISE FROM TOP: A A RON JOEL SA N TOS (2); COURTESY OF SA NCTUA RY RESORT COMMUNIT Y HO TR A M
A ghost town, this wee islet in the South China Sea once housed a notorious French-colonial then Vietnamese-Communist penal colony; the spirit of Nguyen Thi Sau, a teenage girl martyred on the altar of national liberation is said to still roam the rural lands. Jittery fliers might get a different kind of fright landing on the super-short oceanbounded runway after the quick prop-plane flight from Saigon (vietnamairlines.com)—but it’s worth it for the somber look at this powerful history, as well as the more uplifting activities of snorkeling, Hobie Cat sailing and fresh-seafood gorging. The knockout, rustic-chic, all-pool villa Six Senses Con Dao (sixesenses.com; US$670) sprawls a seemingly interminable flat beach and, at low-tide, you can wade into the crazy-clear, bathwater-warm ocean calf-deep for half a kilometer.
Hanoi’s Old Quarter traffic as seen from Avalon Sky Garden.
a f t e r da r k
Night Views
The streets of Hanoi are filled with makeshift beer gardens, but a handful of upscale bars is enticing patrons upstairs to the rooftops and terraces. By Karryn Miller
5:00 P.M. Sit six floors above Hanoi’s
6:30 P.M. Head to Hanoi’s largest lake, West
West Lake panorama at Summit Lounge.
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Lake, to shuck some oysters at don’s Tay Ho (16/27 Xuan Dieu St., Tay Ho; 84-4/3719-2828; donsbistro.com; dinner and drinks for two VND1,000,000). The four-story restaurant/bakery/bar has an open-air veranda up top where you can order the imported seafood—though at a premium. »
Photographed by Aaron Joel Santos
B OT TO M : K A R RY N M I L L E R
iconic Hoan Kiem lake, at Avalon’s Sky Garden (73 Cau Go St., Hoan Kiem; 84-4/3926-0801; avaloncafelounge.com; drinks for two VND240,000), and look down on the tangle of mopeds and taxis that make up the after-work rush. Sip a Wild Grass cocktail of vodka, lime, finely sliced lemongrass and lemon leaf. The garden-like setting includes a central gazebo sheltering rocking chairs. A white trellis wrapped in vines acts as a makeshift dividing wall from neighboring rooftops, which pale in aesthetic comparison to Avalon’s handsome wood and wicker patio furniture.
Oysters on the rooftop at don’s Tay Ho in the West Lake district of Hanoi.
A mojito with passion fruit foam at Summit Lounge.
The Canadian- and French-grown oysters start at VND110,000 each. For something more filling, the varied menu includes excellent wood-fired pizzas and some local specialties like pho noodles.
8:30 P.M. Get even higher views of West Lake and beyond at Summit Lounge (1 Thanh Nien Rd., Ba Dinh; 84-4/3823-8888; drinks for two VND400,000). The Sofitel Plaza’s 20th-floor bar was set to be a penthouse before it became a lounge. The place has kept the high-end abode theme with entry by a cozy private elevator, waitresses dressed as French maids with pink wigs and retro red plastic egg chairs. The view, though, is the main attraction—with a near 360-degree outlook from the floor to ceiling windows, or from the outdoor terrace. Order a mojito with passionfruit foam, and embrace your inner 80’s child as the weekend DJ spins tunes from the era for a crowd of expats and hip young Vietnamese. 11:00 P.M. A five-minute cab ride away is the ultra-modern and aptly named Rooftop (Pacific Place, 19th floor, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet St., Hoan Kiem; 84-4/3946-1901; therooftop.vn; drinks for two VND600,000) which offers patrons a clear view of the city's rapidly changing skyline. It’s a magnet for Hanoi’s nouveau riche who crowd the small dance floor on weekends. There are seating options for those who are not there to dance: crimson-colored booths, wicker chairs or the dimly lit VIP room with its cigar lounge vibe. Service can be a bit hitor-miss, and two Russian Standards can set you back VND300,000, but you’re here for the view, which is priceless. ✚
Rooftop bar at Pacific Place.
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food
Six Dishes: Saigon
Our meal-by-meal guide to where and what to eat now. By Monique Truong
breakfast Hu tieu Nam Vang kho at Hu Tieu Quynh
snack Sinh to mang cau xiem at Juicy
lunch Thit kho to and thit ba rol xao mam ruoc at Cuc Gach Quan
Why is a bowl of noodles the breakfast of choice in this rambunctious, nightlife-loving metropolis? It’s the best hangover cure, of course. In this Cambodia-influenced staple, rice noodles are graced with shrimp, pork, crispy shallots and pickled lotus stems. A65 Nguyen Trai St., Q1; 84-83/836-9145; VND65,000 per bowl.
Mang cau xiem (soursop) is proof that sometimes Mother Nature can’t make up her mind. Pineapple, green mango, lychee, banana and lime? She said yes to all. Whirled into a sinh to (smoothie), this is a great reminder that ice makes everything better in the tropics. 18A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St., Q1; 8483/910-0262; VND18,000 per glass.
Conceived by a local architect in homage to his grandmother, this rustic oasis offers authentic countryside dishes. Order a clay pot of slow-braised or caramelized pork, seasoned with mam ruoc (fermented shrimp paste) and lemongrass. 10 Dang Tat St., Q1; 84-83/848-0144; cucgachquan.com.vn/ en; meal for two VND200,000.
dinner Com tam at Com Tam 577
dessert Chuoi nep nuong at Chuoi Nuong Dakao
for the flight home Dac Biet blend coffee beans at Quynh Café
Follow the aroma of pork fat dripping over hot coals to find this Saigon specialty and workingman’s feast: com tam (broken rice) is tucked under a fire-licked pork chop, slices of cha trung (steamed frittata of ground pork), bi (julienned pork skin fragrant with roasted rice powder) and slices of tomato. 577 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St., Q3; VND40,000 per plate.
Dakao Market’s main entrance bustles with people waiting for street-food magic. Wrapped in sticky rice and grilled over coals, the humble banana is transformed into a diva of a dessert, singing honeyed notes with an alluring contrast between its crisp shell and its tender heart. Intersection of Truong Han Sieu and Dinh Tien Hoang Sts., Q1; VND18,000 per piece.
Sourced directly from two small grower-roasters in the Central Highlands, the coffee beans from this light-filled café are an excellent way to keep the buzz of Saigon with you (and to share it with family and friends). The Dac Biet blend will keep you going with its notes of smoke and chocolate. 197 Nguyen Trai St., Q1; VND30,000 for 100 grams. ✚
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Photographed by Morgan Ommer
fa m i ly t r av e l
For the Kids
Between eating, shuffling everyone around, and finding some relaxing beach time, here are five things you’ll want to do in Vietnam. By Collin Crowell 1. RELIVE HISTORY There’s more to Vietnam than the “American War,” but before you can shake off the dusty notion of a conflict-torn country, you’ll be amazed by the minute Viet Cong hideaways, while you and your kids crawl through now-widened tunnels and explore rusty tanks. Saigon River Express; 84-12/85920018; saigonriverexpress.com; tours VND1,697,000 for adults, VND1,132,000 for children. 2. SCOOT THROUGH THE CAPITAL After you finish staring at the sea of motorbikes that clog Vietnam’s roads, and muster the courage to cross the street, you won’t be able to escape the desire to take your own ride on Vietnam’s favorite form of transportation. Vietnam Vespa Adventures offers a great tour of Saigon on an antique Vespa. There are kid-size helmets and sturdy backseat rests to make sure the family has a safe time out. 169a De Tham St., District 1, Pham Ngu Lao Ward, Saigon; 84-12/2299-3585; vietnamvespaadventures.com; The Insider’s Saigon Tour from VND1,373,450 per person including Vespas, drivers, guide, lunch and all entry fees. 3. GET DIRTY Nha Trang is Vietnam’s family-friendly beach city. Take a break from the diving to roll around in the mud, treating yourself to a spa-like session at Thap Ba Hot Springs. The photos of everyone covered head to toe in mud alone will be worth the
trip. 15 Ngoc Son, Ngoc Hiep, Nha Trang; 84-58/383-5345; thapbahotspring.com.vn/hotspring; doubles from VND3,800,000.
4. CATCH SOME AIR Put down the Piña Colada and take up kiteboarding. This adrenalin-fueled sport is not for the faint of heart, which makes watching professionals fly through the air in Mui Ne all the more delightful. This once sleepy beach town now prides itself on being one of the biggest water sports destinations in Southeast Asia, with places like Jibe’s Beach Club offering a wide variety of activities. Plus, there’s mini-golf. 84-90 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne; 84-62/384-7405; windsurf-vietnam.com; kiteboarding from US$60 per person per hour.
5. GET TOO CLOSE TO WILD ANIMALS For a one-of-akind encounter, try feeding crocodiles in the Mekong Delta. Phoenix Island is crisscrossed with bamboo bridges that suspend above giant crocodiles basking in the hot sun. For a croc-feeding experience a little closer to Saigon, try the kitschy and bizarre Suoi Tien Buddhist Theme Park (VND80,000 for adults, VND40,000 for children) outside of Saigon. Locals also say that lion-feeding time—4:45 p.m. daily—at the Saigon Zoo, is worth a visit. Without any rail guard, just mind the gap. 2B Nguyen Binh Khiem St., Ward Ben Nghe, District 1, Saigon; 84-8/3829-3728; saigonzoo.net; admission US$2. ✚ T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
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SHINY TOWERS AND SOFT PROPAGANDA, CAPITALISM AND COMMUNISM, SHARE THE SKYLINE IN SAIGON. OPPOSITE: UNCLE HO’S MAUSOLEUM STILL DRAWS HANOI’S DEVOTED.
SAIGON/HANOI Vietnam reunified in 1975, but the two sides never quite stopped bickering. lien hoang jumps into the fray, making the cases for both major cities. pho t o g r a p h e d by mo rga n om m e r T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
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My family hails from the former imperial capital of Hue (my last name means royal), a city that lies right in the center of this elongated country. Which is all just to say, I would seem to be an impartial judge in this north-south divide.
Southerners call Hanoians snobs who
f Americans want to make peace, Ho Chi Minh said in 1966, “we shall make peace and invite them to tea afterwards.” Judging by the relations between Vietnam and the U.S.—as well as the lack of reservations with which the Vietnamese embrace most foreigners—Uncle Ho’s sentiment has been borne out. Friends are one thing, though. Family another. As in any family, rivalry simmers beneath the surface in Vietnam—and manifests itself in strange ways. When Saigon’s population grew larger than Hanoi’s, the capital just annexed more land to grow its own numbers. Politically, Vietnam is one big, communist clan. Socially, a quiet battle still rages on across the 17th parallel. In one corner: the conservative capital, where Hanoians see themselves as elegant, shrewd with money and close-knit. Northerners have post-war bragging rights, a political system that’s triumphed throughout the land, and a glorious leader exalted in every gilded bust and red-and-gold street banner—as well as the official name of their southern rival city. But not all the spoils went to the victor. In the other corner is Saigon, a more-liberal bastion that welcomes newcomers. Southerners aren’t exactly nursing an inferiority complex. They’re driving the economy. Saigonese wake up early and stay out late. Rush hour was once only a weekday concern. Now, Saturday and Sunday evenings offer no respite as people hit the town. Young Vietnamese may not have refrigerators or hot water in their shared rentals, but they can decorate their motorbikes and color their hair in this fashionconscious city—which has also emerged as the nation’s undisputed LGBT capital. Skyscrapers are going up at a vertiginous rate; the Bitexco Financial Tower, the most iconic building downtown, with an optimistic helipad disk jutting out near the top, didn’t exist when I first returned to Vietnam in 2008. Travelers seeking out remnants of French empire, though, would do better to visit Hanoi, the cultural and conceptual heart of the country with no shortage of lakes and ponds, artists and philosophers. Under colonial rulers, “Hanoi was to be a stately, orderly, and controlled urban space,” historian Michael Vann writes. Besides wide boulevards and graceful villas—best exemplified by the celebrated grande dame, the Sofitel Legend Metropole—the sense of order was passed onto communist leaders. Unlike in Saigon, officials in the capital still blare out public service announcements on speakers throughout the city. Perhaps counterintuitively, Hanoi also has a creative tradition stretching back a millennium, which manifests today in funky, concept cafes and shocking, censorshipflaunting artists like Dao Anh Khanh. 16
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look down on anyone not born in their city. Any truth to this is easily explained by migration patterns. Northerners retained much of their Han heritage, derived from the neighboring Chinese. They were traditionally a more closed society. Southerners, on the other hand, picked up Cham and Khmer influences—and bloodlines—as Vietnam pushed into those ancient kingdoms. Historically the French and the Americans had far more interaction with southerners than northerners, contributing to a legacy in Saigon of accepting strangers. In Hanoi, outsiders stand out no matter how long they’ve lived in their adopted home. Foreigners of the past promoted another convention that southerners received well: economic liberalization. Traders from China sailed to the south during its 1,000-year occupation of the Vietnamese territory and began exporting things back home, says Nguyen Thi Anh Nguyet, a history professor in Saigon, which is why “when the French and Americans came, it was easy to accept capitalism.” With all the different peoples and goods passing through the Mekong Delta, south Vietnamese were already amenable to the free market, whereas in the north, traditionally, “people made enough to give to the government and to feed themselves,” Nguyet says. The southern economic bustle paused in 1975, but after devastating food shortages and ration lines, northerners eventually caught on. In the 1980’s, China had Deng Xiaoping and Vietnam had its Doi Moi market reforms. A retired journalist who worked for AP’s Saigon bureau in the 1960’s and ’70s recently told me southerners must be chuckling to themselves now, despite their military defeat: “In a perverse way, they won.” But the old system left another stamp on Hanoi. It retains a reputation of languid bureaucracy, while Saigon is known for its innovation and entrepreneurship. In terms of foreigners, NGOs go north, corporations go south. A friend from Hanoi, who took a job at a western consulate in Saigon, says he believes that back in the capital, state salaries and reliable hours offer no incentive to experiment or even exert much energy. It extends from the public sector to everyday businesses. As a tourist, you’ll notice it most in customer service: Sales people in the south will attend to you to the
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: HUONG KHAN, A STUDENT, STROLLS THE PAVILION OF DOWNTOWN SAIGON’S NEWEST MALL, VINCOM CENTER 2; NEM WITH ALL THE FIXINGS IN HANOI; IN HANOI’S OLD QUARTER; AEROBICS NEAR HOAN KIEM LAKE, HANOI; GRAHAM GREENE LIVED IN THE 1880-BUILT HOTEL CONTINENTAL SAIGON WHILE WRITING THE QUIET AMERICAN, AND IT WAS A FAVORITE OF FOREIGN CORRESPONDENTS DURING THE WAR ERA; GUERILLA MARKETING AT THE BITEXCO TOWER, SAIGON; CANH CHUA (SOUR SOUP) AT CUCH GACH QUAN IN SAIGON; THOUGH THERE ARE 35 MILLION MOTORBIKES IN VIETNAM, SOME, LIKE THIS HANOIAN, STILL PEDAL.
THE REFINERY, ONCE AN OPIUM PLANT, SERVES CONTINENTAL CUISINE IN SAIGON’S HEART. OPPOSITE: ANTIQUE CYCLOS ACCENT THE FAÇADE OF HANOI’S SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE.
Hanoi is less congested, more peaceful and less polluted. There’s a pervading sense of history, beauty and calm point of badgering. In the north, the good news is that they leave you alone. The bad news is also that they leave you alone. Some attribute this less to indifference than to a culture of rudeness (Saigonese friends warned me before my first visit to Hanoi that everyone would try to cheat me, though I found the northerners decidedly less nefarious). While I was helping an acquaintance pick out clothes in Hanoi as a gift for his girlfriend back in Saigon, he asked a sales girl for help and got a tepid response. “See?” he said. “This is why I hate northerners.” If he had spoken to her in English like a westerner instead of in the southern dialect, he says she would have reacted with better manners.
One Hanoi dweller, a French graphic designer named
Steven Moreau, suggested to me that southerners’ perception of bigotry actually makes them bigger perpetuators of the north-south spat. But it is undeniable that the language really does divide people. Northerners speak giong Bac and southerners speak giong Nam. Unsurprisingly, the northern dialect dominates official decrees and discourse, but also the evening news, lessons in proper Vietnamese, translations, dubbings and subtitles. Even when I go out to karaoke with southerners, they change their accents for a higher score. The nuances matter particularly to Hanoians who, like certain George Bernard Shaw characters, write off outsiders who speak with a lesser accent. A woman I met in Hanoi told me her parents can’t help it—they just can’t endure hearing giong Nam. Central Vietnamese have their own regionalisms, too, which blend traits of giong Bac and giong Nam. As someone who speaks giong Hue, I miss a lot from both poles of the country. No matter. I confess a bias in saying that I don’t like either dominant dialect. Giong Bac is arrogantly austere, and giong Nam is as pleasant to listen to as Eliza Doolittle. By contrast, giong Hue is unpretentious, simple and easy on the ears. Cuisine likewise has regional idioms, though I would stress that this is one category in which just about all of Vietnam excels equally. Flavors aren’t as strong in the north, southerners love their sugar, and I prefer the spice and salt of central dishes. After growing up on the home-cooking of a Hue mother, I blanket everything in pepper. I’ve found that locals in Hanoi can’t take the mildest of seasonings. But that doesn’t diminish the quality of food in the capital, the birthplace of pho (beef noodle soup), cha ca (fish patties) and bun oc (noodles with snails), among other delights. Tantalizing takes on most dishes are widely available in both cities, though I actually
prefer pho in California; for some reason, chefs in Vietnam overcook these noodles every time. Some of my favorite southern entrees are canh chua (a sour tomato and pineapple soup), bun thit nuong (grilled pork with noodles) and all manner of hotpots. Thanks to Hue we have banh xeo (shrimp-pork crêpes), which go well with rice paper, a great wrap for everything from spring rolls to fish to bo la lot (betel leaf-wrapped beef). Many eateries in both Saigon and Hanoi boast in their names that they serve fare from ba mien, meaning the three regions. Hanoi does seem to have a monopoly when it comes to the tongue-in-cheek. In 1946, Vietnam was recovering from a famine that claimed millions of lives. Now, a Hanoi restaurant named after that year gives customers a taste of austerity, with basic fare, intentionally chipped dishware and peeling walls. A similar eatery that has been generating a lot of buzz is Cua Hang An Uong Mau Dich So 37, or Food Trade Shop Number 37. The food is slightly better than at 1946, but you really go for the theme. Diners pay upfront, in exchange for ration slips, which disappear with each dish that arrives. Best of all are the nostalgic trappings of Vietnam’s subsidy era splashed across shelves and walls, from rotary phones and transistor radios, to lanterns, satchels and even a hanging bicycle. My dinner companion was, in the 1980’s, a young boy, but remembered lining up with his parents to claim their state-apportioned food.
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During dinner, he pointed out a decorative brick and explained that Vietnamese used to write their ration numbers on bricks and use them to hold their spots in line.
Vietnamese only can reminisce about those old days
because they’ve moved on. Much as foreigners tend to dwell on the war era, few Vietnamese cling to grudges. Einstein called nationalism an infantile disease, which probably can be said of municipal rivalries, too. When you visit both cities, wander off the beaten path and among the alleys to see what locals like—in food, architecture, culture and daily life. Vietnamese really take advantage of public parks, to breakdance, rollerblade, play games, rehearse. In Hanoi, you’ll see laughing yoga in the morning and sexy dance aerobics at night; in Saigon, old women do hip-hop to burn calories, and mechanical treadmills turn the parks into outdoor gyms. It’s tempting to give Saigon the edge when it comes to cost. Consulting firm ECA International ranked it as the most affordable for expats in Southeast Asia last year. But in second place? Hanoi— whose locals insist that they save money, while southerners are materialistic, perhaps working hard but spending their earnings instantly on meals out, karaoke and mobile phones. The capital has advantages. It’s less congested, more peaceful and less polluted. There is a pervading sense of history and beauty and calm. Some like the relief of chilly winters after humid summers. It was during a crispweather walk through a Hanoi park anchored by a Lenin statue when I met Moreau, the designer, who told me he’s chosen to live in the
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Saigonese wake up early and stay out late. They aren’t nursing an inferiority complex; they’re driving the economy capital for the past five years, after two in Saigon. In truth, though, I think he’s a rarity. People favor Saigon. Northerners abound there. It’s not so easy to find a southerner who has migrated to Hanoi. As a Vietnamese-American, I find it hard enough to fit in. The country tries to lure Viet Kieu like me back, but, once here, we face a loselose reality: We are not Vietnamese enough when speaking the language or knowing the customs and we are too Vietnamese in that we don’t have the white skin that parents want for their children’s English teachers. Still, Saigon’s long tradition of welcoming everyone is what drew me here. This cosmopolitan place is lively and inviting. Vietnamese generally are friendly people, it’s just that southern Vietnamese are friendlier. They know it and can articulate it. “Southerners are more open-minded and tolerant,” a young friend tells me. I’ve found Hanoians, on the other hand, struggle to justify why they prefer their city, except out of childhood attachment. When my family left Hue in the late 1980’s, we got on an unsafe boat and slipped into the UN refugee camp in Hong Kong just before the door closed. Recently I met a Vietnamese-Australian who happened to work at the camp at the time. He told me they had to separate northerners and southerners into different housing units to head off skirmishes. I figured my family would have stayed above the fray, but he said, no, we most likely were lumped with the southerners. Maybe I’m not such an impartial judge after all. ✚
AN OUTDOOR BARBERSHOP WITH FLAIR, HANOI-STYLE. OPPOSITE: SKATEBOARDERS AND B-BOYS ROCK IT IN A SAIGON PARK.
THE FRENCH BEGAN BUILDING THE HANOI OPERA HOUSE IN 1901, BASED ON THE DESIGN OF PALAIS GARNIER IN PARIS.
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T L Guide HANOI STAY Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Dist.; 84-4/3826-6919; sofitellegend.com/hanoi; doubles from US$230. InterContinental Hanoi Westlake 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Dist.; 84-4/6270-8888; ihg.com; doubles from US$101. Hotel de l’Opera 29 Trang Tien St., Hoan Kiem Dist.; 84-4/62825555; hoteldelopera.com; doubles from US$185. Church Boutique Hotel Hang Gai 95 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem Dist.; 84-4/3823-6675; hanggai.church hotel.com.vn; doubles from US$71. Movenpick 83A Ly Thuong Kiet St., Hoan Kiem Dist.; 84-4/38222800; movenpick-hotels.com; rooms from US$120. EAT 1946 3 Yen Thanh Alley, 61 Cua Bac St., Ba Dinh, 84-4/6296-1946; and Villa 50 Mai Anh Tuan St., Hoang Cau Lakeside, Dong Da, 844/6326-1946; 1946.vn; dinner for two VND200,000. Cua Hang An Uong Mau Dich So 37 37 Nam Trang, Ba Dinh Dist.; dinner for two VND400,000. Banh Cuon, Miss An Thirdgeneration specialist in rice crêpes. 72 Hang Bo, tucked into a butcher shop, Hoan Kiem Dist. Sen Nam Thanh Good for sensitive stomachs. 84B Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung District; 84-4/39410307; dinner for two VND700,000. Quan An Ngon Central cuisine. 18 Phan Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem District; 84-4/3942-8162; ngonhanoi.com. vn; dinner for two VND200,000. La Verticale High-end FrancoVietnamese fusion in a 1930’s villa. 19 Ngo Van So; 84-4/39446317; verticale-hanoi.com; set menus from VND756,000. DRINK Cong Cafe Ironic communist paraphernalia. 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh Dist.; 84-4/6686-0344; congcaphe.com. Hoa Vien Czech-influenced brewery. 1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung Dist.; 84-4/3972-5088; hoavien.vn. SAIGON STAY Park Hyatt 2 Lam Son Square, Q1;
84-8/3824-1234; parkhyatt saigon.com; doubles from US$313. InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, Q1; 84-8/3520-9999; ihg. com; doubles from US$160. Caravelle 19-23 Lam Son Square, Q1; 84-8/3823-4999; caravelle hotel.com; doubles from US$208. Rex 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1; 848/3829-2185; rexhotelvietnam. com; doubles from US$145. Hotel Majestic 1 Dong Khoi, Q1; 84-8/3829-5517; majesticsaigon. com.vn; doubles from US$140. Hotel Continental 132 Dong Khoi, Q1; 84-8/3829-9201; continentalhotel.com.vn; doubles from US$117. EAT Nam Giao Authentic Hue food. 136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1; 848/3825-0261; namgiao.com; dinner for two VND250,000. Monsoon Southeast Asian. 1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1; 84-8/6290-8899; dinner for two VND300,000. Halo Best vegetarian in town. 18A1/4 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1; dinner for two VND150,000. L’Usine Stark-chic boutique-café. 151/1 Dong Khoi, Q1; 84-8/39140631; lusinespace.com; lunch for two VND450,000. Le Banh Mi Upscale Vietnamese sandwiches, plus good coffee and late beers. 12 Le Thanh Ton, Q1; dinner for two VND150,000. Hoa Tuc Classed-up classic Vietnamese; runs a cooking school. 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1; 84-8/38251676; hoatuc.com; dinner for two VND800,000. The Refinery Ambient interior, lovely patio. 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1; 84-8/3823-0509; therefinerysaigo n.com; dinner for two VND800,000. Cuc Gach Quan Eclectic treehouse. 10 Dang Tat, Q1; 84-8/ 3848-0144; cucgachquan.com.vn; dinner for two VND800,000. DRINK Chill Bar Best view of the city. Rooftop, AB Tower, 76 Le Lai, Q1; 84-8/3827-2372; chillsaigon.com. Pacharan Sangria and tapas. 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1; 84-8/38256924; pacharansaigon.com. La Fenetre Soleil Ask about the group dance lessons. 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1; 84-8/3824-5994. Hien and Bob’s Place Resident expats’ favorite dive. 43 Hai Ba Trung, Q1; 84-8/3823-0661.
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Roast meats hang in the window of an eatery in the heart of Saigon’s Chinatown.
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From as far back as its 17th-century origins as a Chinese refugee settlement, Cholon—Saigon’s Chinatown—retains the ornate pagodas, shops and restaurants bearing Chinese characters that betray the area’s long link with the Middle Kingdom. Its culinary identity, meanwhile, also remains highly Sinicized with a profusion of roasted meat stores, stalls and restaurants proffering classic Chinese dishes. The catch: a whopping lack of infrastructure makes it a challenge to explore. But anyone seeking a comprehensive overview of food in Vietnam’s southern hub will want to check out its bustling street life and array of dining options. Here we offer guidance to navigating the mayhem and finding the best spots.
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Duncan Forgan tours the culinary labyrinth of Saigon’s famous Chinatown.
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Where: 138 Châu Văn Liêm, District 5. Specialty: Chè hô.t gà (chicken egg sweet soup), VND16,000 for one bowl. Why go: The hideous traffic outside on Châu Văn Liêm makes this one of Saigon’s more unlikely spots for a romantic tryst. But, the reputation the outlet has for serving up some of the city’s best chè (sweet soup) means it is
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perennially packed with sweet-toothed couples (or, perhaps more accurately, sweet-toothed girls and their accommodating consorts). From an initial six varieties, the restaurant now serves nearly 40, and the owner prides herself on her use of rock sugar rather than (more unhealthy) syrup. Intriguing options include a Guangzhou-style soup made with phu.c linh, a species of mushroom that grows on pine roots, and a delicious tofu and almond brew. For many love-struck Saigonese, however, the version of choice features egg as the highlight ingredient, boiled and then poached in tea mixed with sugar and Chinese medicinal herbs. The egg whites
Photographed by Quinn Ryan Mattingly
Chinese dumpling soup, prepared at Mì Thiê.u Ký.
turn brown and become stiffer as they absorb the tea—resulting in a concoction whose devotees believe promotes liver and lung health, as well as vitality. 2
Mì Thiê.u Ký
Where: Alley 66 Lê Đa.i Hành St, District 11 (street-stall near the junction of Thâ.n Ki`êu, Tr`ân Quý and Hòa H o). Speciality: M`y hoành thánh (dumpling noodle soup), VND30,000 for one bowl. Why go: Known colloquially as Tu K`y, this alleyway institution that’s been dishing up dumplings for more than 70 years is a legend among Vietnamese yet virtually unknown to Westerners. Tucked away near the gigantic Cho Ray Hospital, the stall is an oasis compared to the maelstrom of honking horns and suicidal traffic maneuvers that surround it.
Songbirds in cages swing next to the flower-bedecked doors of shophouses as the proprietors expertly shape hoành thánh (wonton dumplings) from mounds of minced shrimp and pork. These are dunked in a peppery broth drawn from a cauldron and served up with freshly made thin, yellow noodles and crunchy bok choy, and garnished with scallions. The noodles are the star attraction but the stall also does a mean crispy wonton and tender siu mai (pork dumplings). 3
Hai Ký Mì Gia
~ Trãi, District 5. Where: 349-351 Nguyên Specialty: Mì vi.t ti`êm (braised duck with egg noodles), VND65,000 for one bowl. Why go: If there’s one dish that perfectly encapsulates the Hoa (Chinese/ Vietnamese) culinary style it is mì vi.t ti`êm.
Deceptively simple—in essence it involves a large duck leg braised in Chinese spices, some yellow egg noodles, mustard greens and a rich, dark broth flavored with the medicinal herbs and spices from the duck—the best versions of the dish easily transcend the sum of its parts. That’s certainly the case at this family-run institution. Outside in the alley portion of the restaurant, one of the two portly brothers who preside over the proceedings lovingly tends to the noodles and, when satisfied of their perfection, transfers them into the bowl along with the broth and the mustard greens. The coup de grâce, however, is the duck leg: a meaty miracle that delights all the way from the first bite of its darkly glazed skin to the last morsel to fall off the bone. ✚
The steamy kitchen at H i Ký Mì Gia serves up tender braised duck.
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1 GET HIGH The sandy beach at Mui Ne, near Phan Thiet, is the launch pad for Southeast Asia’s kitesurfing enthusiasts. With steady onshore winds and Vietnam’s lowest rainfall, the fishing town offers some of the best kite and windsurfing in the region. Along the waterfront are dozens of watersport schools with an eclectic crew of teachers from around the world. Try KNS (84-1267/194-923; kite-n-surf.com; US$140 for a two-hour taster) for lessons with knowledgeable International Kiteboarding Organization (IKO) certified instructors.
A kitesurferi set for liftoff.i At Sea Links Golf and Country Club.
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Phan Thiet, Four Ways
Karryn Miller takes a look at the best ways to enjoy the sun, sand and surf in Vietnam’s southern coastal town of Phan Thiet.
3 BUG OUT Cascading mountains of sand aren’t limited to the desert. Phan Thiet’s Saharan-like White Sand Dunes (a 45-minute drive from the city) feature peaks and troughs of powdery sand surrounding a deep blue lagoon. Four-wheeled dune buggies are available for rent at the entrance and visitors have free reign on the hills. If you’re after a perfect photo op, visit early before traffic destroys the artistic sand ripples. The dunes are in Hong Lam village, Hoa Thang Commune, Bac Binh District (62 kilometers from Phan Thiet).
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2 HIT THE LINKS The views at Vietnamese golf courses don’t disappoint. From Sea Links Golf and Country Club’s cliff-top tee box, golfers hit towards the South China Sea’s crisp blue waters. With its rolling landscape, this 18-hole links-style course not only has impressive views, but is also said to be one of Asia’s most challenging. Choose to play during Phan Thiet’s windiest seasons (May to November and December to April) and you’ll add even more excitement to the game (84-62/374-1666; golfthebeachvn.com/sea-links; US$75 weekday 18-hole green fee). 4 COOK LIKE A LOCAL The honking scooters transporting the morning’s catch and locals scouring the produce stalls at Phan Thiet’s central market provide a starkly different experience than supermarket shopping in the West. Anantara Resort and Spa runs market tours as part of their cooking lessons, which include whipping up typical Vietnamese dishes such as shrimp spring rolls Shop like the locals and banh chung (savory rice cakes). at a morning market. Head chef Alain Nguyen’s past makes for interesting discussion during each session. He trained under Alain Ducasse in Paris and has travelled all over Vietnam to learn more about his nation’s cuisine (84-62/374-1888; mui-ne.anantara.com; US$72 per person). ✚
C LO C KW I S E F R O M TO P : ST E V E H E R M A N N ; CO U RT E SY O F S E A L I N KS ; KARRYN MILLER; © AGNESMARCELLINA/DREAMSTIME.COM
Four wheels andi some high dunes.i
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F R O M TO P R I G H T: © F I S F R A / D R E A M ST I M E .CO M ; CO U RT E SY O F CO L I N R O O H A N / F L I C K R .CO M
It’s great for beating the crowds. The inevitable arrival of throngs of tourists has hovered like a dark cloud over Phu Quoc for years. Thankfully, for now, it’s all blue skies and sunshine. The triangular island, less than an hour’s hop from Saigon, still offers secluded white sand beaches fringed with palm trees and dusty red dirt roads. Head south by moped from the semideveloped main town of Duong Dong to experience the island’s bucolic charms. With a map and a bit of luck you will eventually find Bai Sao Beach along the southeastern coast. The isolated spot has postcard-quality scenes of ivory sand under a gradually deepening sea of translucent turquoise water. To venture further offshore book a dive or snorkel trip at Rainbow Divers (11 Tran Hung Dao; 84913/400-964; divevietnam.com) among the coral playground off
the northwest tip or the cluster of An Thoi islands down south. If you prefer a personal touch in your accommodation opt for Cassia Cottage (Ba Keo beach; 84-773/848-395; cassiacottage.com; sea view rooms from US$95), a beachside boutique resort offering a friendly, intimate atmosphere with just 18 brick cottages. Cassia’s American owner first came to the island to get into the peppercorn business in the late ’90s, and his passion is apparent at the hotel’s Spice House restaurant, which seasons dishes with heady black pepper and vanilla from their farm. T+L TIP Get there soon. Phu Quoc International Airport has just opened in 2012, and the government is planning an all-out push to increase yearly arrivals from the current level of around 280,000 to 2 million by 2020.— Karryn Miller ✚
Exploring this boat-dotted stretch of Vietnamese coast. Top: Tethered canoes float at a quiet Phu Quoc beach.
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DESTINATION
Boomtown Vietnam is found along its central coast, in a sweet spot between pretty Hoi An and proud Hue. Jeninne Lee-St. John explains why you’ll soon be headed to the beaches of Danang. Photographed by Morgan Ommer
MY KHE BEACH. OPPOSITE PAGE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: BANYAN TREE'S THU QUAN BAR; LUNCH IN DANANG; LOCAL TAILORS; HOI AN WET MARKET; MR. VAN, GUIDE; HEAVEN VILLA, INTERCONTINENTAL; SELLING FRUIT IN HOI AN; A POOL AT THE HYATT REGENCY. MIDDLE: A WELCOME TO THE SPA, BANYAN TREE.
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hey’re building luxury resorts and housing developments. We’ll be coming to China Beach all the time...” The spiel went on, but he lost me at “China Beach.” The guy I was about to marry had phoned me six years ago from central Vietnam with one of his then-regular pitches to get me excited about my impending move from New York to Saigon. But to my American ears, the notion of vacationing in China Beach seemed anything but regular. We had grown up envisioning the China Beach of the acclaimed TV show and of our parents’ recollections of Walter Cronkite news reports: a field hospital and R&R spot for American soldiers during the Vietnam War. The big military airfield at Danang was the last place to which you’d want a plane ticket. But three decades after the American withdrawal, China Beach was now My Khe and Danang was making news for happier reasons. The Nam Hai opened in 2006 to global laud,
jump-starting the interest in the region of developers and the highest-end international hotels. “When I arrived in early 2005, the 30-kilometer stretch of road—the Danang corridor—was primarily used as a transfer road to get people from the airport to Hoi An ancient town and its close hotels,” says Phil Jordan, cofounder of Golf Life Tours, which runs golf and cultural charter holidays in Indochina. “Danang, like most other cities in Vietnam, developed swiftly. Unlike some others, they did a very good job of providing infrastructure for tourism.” Eight years and a global market meltdown later, Danang is fulfilling its promise. In 2012, the region saw 2.7 million visitor arrivals, a 130 percent increase since 2007. The integrated resort complex Laguna Lang Co and the bigger-than-life InterContinental Danang Sun had their grand openings in 2013, the hotels taking their places among seven other five- and fourstars and the Laguna Golf Course upping the number of championship courses in the area to three. Dragonair (“after years of pleading and groveling” by hoteliers, says Peter Ryder, CEO of Indochina Capital, which developed the Nam Hai and the newer Hyatt Regency Danang) launched, also in 2013, direct
flights from Hong Kong, joining regular connections from Seoul, Singapore and Kuala Lumpur to Danang—and at its new international terminal, which opened at the end of 2011. My husband was beyond right. Over the three and a half years I lived in Saigon, I visited Danang nearly 20 times. I’ve mostly stayed on the beach, but also in Hoi An town and over the mountains just outside of Danang, in boutique properties, the big names and one rental villa. And I recently returned to see the new blockbuster hotels. As the buildings have risen, so too have the hopes. “We’re very confident that the destination is going to become the next Phuket,” Ryder says, “the next Bali, the next East Asian It spot.”
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ietnam is one long, skinny coastline. Why the boom in Danang? First, because of the city’s port and proximity to the DMZ during the U.S.-Vietnam War, the American military located a major base at the airfield there, building two long runways that today can handle large international flights. The quick drive from the airport to many resorts makes transfer-time negligible.
A second factor has been the impressive level of publicprivate cooperation. Vietnam is not exactly known for the ease of doing business, but developers, travel agents and hoteliers repeatedly credit the party leaders in and around Danang and Hoi An with fast-tracking projects, making sure the new airport terminal was built and promising the swift processing of foreign visas. “They’ve been encouraging transparent, decisive leadership,” Ryder says. Not something you hear in a communist country every day. Of course, none of this matters if the destination is a dud. The third and most important reason is the wealth of cultural and leisure options available in central Vietnam. There are activities for the laid-back (cooking schools, sea-kayaking) and the more athletic (scuba diving off the Cham Islands, motorbike tours through rural villages). And there’s a historical site for nearly every era of Vietnam’s evolution. The most obvious place to start is Hoi An, one of the country’s prettiest towns. Eons ago the largest harbor in Southeast Asia, it was a major trade post until the end of the 1700’s. Abandoned in favor of the deep-water port at Danang,
THE JAPANESE BRIDGE, IN HOI AN. CLOCKWISE FROM OPPOSITE: LANG CO BEACH AT BANYAN TREE; CYCLO DRIVERS; VILLAS AT THE INTERCONTINENTAL.
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Hoi An is the town of lanterns and moon festivals, of bougainvillea and secret alleyways and 24-hour tailors and cobblers (hotel delivery included)
A PRIVATE CABANA POD AT THE HYATT REGENCY. OPPOSITE: MORNING MANGOES IN DANANG.
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Hoi An was completely ignored even through the country’s wars with the French and Americans so that today it contains immaculately preserved centuries-old Japanese and Chinese architecture left by traders. This is the town of lanterns and moon festivals, of bougainvillea and secret alleyways and 24hour tailors and cobblers (hotel delivery included). This unesco World Heritage site is no secret, so expect tourist hoards, especially in the morning and at dinner. The best time to hang in Hoi An is in the sleepy afternoon. Cars are banned in the central part of the old city, and motorbikes are only allowed during rush hours and late at night. Get a bánh mì at Tiê.m Bánh Mì Phuong (OK, yes, Anthony Bourdain went there, but my Vietnamese friends swear they found it first), browse the shops and galleries, then reward yourself with a cold glass of Sauvignon Blanc at White Marble Wine Bar, through whose open windows and doors you can watch the day wind down and the evening gear up. Dinner at MangoRooms (book a river-view table there or at its sister restaurant Mango Mango on the opposite bank) is a kaleidoscopic delight of Vietnamese-globalfusion-food meets Mexican restaurant. Order the Exotic Dance
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and wash it down with a Passion Rumba (trust me). For a nightcap, head to the sleek Q Bar or the rowdy Before and Now. Surrounding Hoi An town are rice farms and fishing villages, any number of which you can visit by hiring a boat at the dock in the center of town. One weekend at the Victoria, a stately hotel on the beach side of Hoi An, the guys arranged an hour-long sunset sail for 10 of us from the hotel into old town via the mouth of the river. The price? One live chicken. Farther afield are Vietnam’s forbidden city of Hue—the royal palace, citadel and capital of the last Nguyen dynasty— and the ruins at My Son, old Hindu temples built between the 4th and 14th centuries when the Champa ruled the region. We visited this Angkor Wat-lite two years ago with my in-laws and local guide Mr. Van Pham, a warm, fluent-English-speaking sixtysomething whose own harrowing tales of intrigue and loss during the war sounded like a weeper of a movie script and provided powerful context for My Son’s own battle scars: the Viet Cong hid at the site, forcing the Americans to bomb the ancient structures. The crater holes are still there, undermining the scaffolding erected to restore the ruins.
TO P R I G H T: © R A FA Ł C I C H AWA / D R E A M S T I M E .C O M
Old Viet Cong hidey holes can also be found in the cave- and Buddhist sanctuary-filled Marble Mountains, which, as it happens, loom over the intimidating 10th hole of Danang Golf Club’s Dunes course, designed by Greg Norman. The Dunes and nearby Montgomerie (as in Colin Montgomerie) Links have both received high praise from the likes of Golf Magazine and Forbes Travel. Tee-off next at Laguna Lang Co’s brand-new Nick Faldo course bounded by the ocean and tucked into the shadow of a lush mountain. “Each of the three courses have been personally designed by some of the greatest players in the modern era,” says golf pro Patrick Kelly, co-founder of Golf Life Tours. “You won’t find that anywhere else in the world.”
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he first time I went to the Nam Hai in 2009, five girlfriends from Saigon and I paid US$1,000 total for a long weekend in a three-bedroom pool villa. Visitors to the area have doubled since that year (and accommodation prices have stabilized with them). There are now 278 hotels on Vietnam’s central coast—robust development since Danang’s first upscale hotel, the Furama, opened in 1997.
People are now staying for longer and coming from farther away, says Michelle Ford, general manager of Fusion Maia Danang, an all-pool villa boutique five-star. International arrivals in 2012 were double the number in 2007. As if to underscore central Vietnam’s contention for Phuket’s spotlight, Laguna—one of the godmothers of “Destination Phuket”—has staked a claim and built their second integrated resort here, starting with a gorgeous Banyan Tree, a Miami Beach-ified Angsana and its aforementioned golf course. Not technically in Danang, the Laguna Lang Co is in the same province as Vietnam’s former imperial city, but much closer—a 45-minute drive through the Hai Van Tunnel—to Danang’s airport than Hue’s. The Banyan Tree is the understated star of this property, with 49 smartly designed stand-alone villas, 17 of which are on the beach, and into any of which you might just want to call it a day, give up your place back home and move. If you tire of alternating dips between your private pool and whirlpool, and of lazing about your landscaped garden, stroll on over to the main building where the public spaces, including the central
LUNCH BREAK, HOI AN. CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: KEY RINGS; MY KHE; RIVER BOATS DOCKED IN HOI AN; CITRON RESTAURANT, INTERCONTINENTAL; HOI AN’S SIGNATURE SILK LANTERNS; DOORS TO THE PAST, HOI AN; CHAM RUINS AT MY SON.
MAIN POOL AND BEACH, BANYAN TREE LANG CO.
‘We’re very confident that this is going to become the next Phuket, the next Bali, the next East Asian It spot.’—Peter Ryder pool, are low-key enough to have a private feel about them as well. They built this place for romance, from the 10 private villas that make up the spa, to the custom wedding chapel on a wee perch just above the property. A lot of places say they train their staff to anticipate your needs, but here they really do get creative in order to accommodate (one morning the breakfast chef whipped me up some delicious “Belgian pancakes” because he had the waffle batter but couldn’t find the waffle iron)—and the talented spa therapists are the insightful sore-muscle whisperers that put Banyan Tree on the massage map. From Saffron, an elegant Thai restaurant on high, you get commanding views of the fishing village across the strait and the entire resort including Angsana, Banyan Tree’s flashier younger sister next door. The more compact and seemingly standard hotel is actually its own cruise-ship of a party. Five of Angsana’s six room types come with private pools, all angled toward the serpentine lazy river on the beach. The other resort that has essentially created its own destination is the InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula, which cascades down a cliffside on Son Tra, a mountainous protrusion jutting out into Danang Bay. The see/hear/speak-no evil monkey statues lining the approach to the resort are the first clues that the place has mischief in mind. (They also pay playful tribute to the hill’s 600-odd douc langur monkeys.) The InterContinental is Vegas-in-Vietnam, oversized and over-thetop. It has the country’s first restaurant run by a Michelin-star chef—La Maison 1888 from three-star Michel Roux—and on the docket a couple of years down will be a casino and a cabaret. The steep tiers of the property mean that every room has an ocean view, that booths in the main restaurant (Citron) and
daybeds scattered throughout the property are built suspended in mid-air, that you feel like you’re in the center ring of the world’s most upscale circus, whether you’re lunching on a boatshaped booth on the beach or swinging from a giant basketchair at the Long Bar. Bill Bensley left no element off-theme: the funiculars that ferry you up and down the resort are shaped like a traditional fishing boats. As the development in the region has grown more sophisticated, so too has the staff. It wasn’t too long ago that five-star hospitality in Vietnam meant following—and never deviating from—a pre-approved list of instructions and a prewritten script of interactions. With the pleasantries mastered, a new generation of staff is getting creative, and sometimes downright chummy. Nowhere is this more apparent than at the Hyatt Regency Danang. Resembling a traditional hotel more than the area’s other newcomers, its main buildings form a wide, low-rise U-shape around a series of pools and restaurants. As a result, from 90 percent of the 220 rooms, suites and villas, you can spy the ocean—and the rest of the resort as well, so guests can keep an eye on their friends or kids from their balconies. Perhaps it’s this sociable atmosphere that has rubbed off on the Hyatt staff. Returning from the Italian buffet with a plate overflowing with all manner of pastas, flatbreads and cheeses, I was met at my table by a waitress. “Miss,” she deadpanned, “maybe you should take some more.” I started to wonder if the folks at Hyatt were giving stand-up lessons when the buggy driver who shuttled us from lunch one drizzly afternoon told us to brace ourselves for the upcoming hairpin turn in the path, which he had dubbed “the Hai Van Pass” in homage to the famous winding mountain road nearby. Then, an
uncooperative rainflap unleashed a casade of water as he tried to unfasten it to let us out. “Sorry,” he said. “It’s made in China.”
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ne thing not made in China: the ocean. The South China Sea is known here as the East Sea, and its usually clear water crashes on a long, pretty parabola of sand still dotted by traditional (and nouveau-traditional) Vietnamese architecture and still supporting distinctly Vietnamese livelihoods. No, Danang hasn’t been Disneyfied. Hoteliers may covet Phuket’s fame but managed growth, with an eye toward fairness, is the plan, they say. With all spa treatments included in its room rate, Fusion Maia, for example, needs a veritable army of employees. “In 2010, it was almost impossible to find the number of therapists we required. There are no spa schools with experienced graduates,” says Michelle Ford. “Massage in Vietnam still sometimes has a stigma attached to it.” But after years of recruiting in the region, the resort has more than 50 skilled therapists and they’re continually hiring more staff. For the most part, it seems locals haven’t been left behind in this
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T L Guide Getting There International routes direct into Danang include five flights a week from Hong Kong on Dragonair. SilkAir flies four times a week from Singapore and three times a week from Siem Reap; from Macau, five flights a week on Air Macau; from Seoul, four flights a week on Korean Air and two flights a week on Asiana. Vietnam Airlines runs charter flights from various cities in China. There are numerous domestic flights every day to and from Saigon and Hanoi on Vietnam Airlines, JetStar and VietJet.
STAY Banyan Tree Lang Co Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune; Phu Loc Dist., Thua Thien Hue; 8454/369-5888; banyantree.com; doubles from US$653. Angsana Lang Co Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune; Phu Loc Dist., Thua Thien Hue; 8454/369-5800; angsana.com; doubles from US$260. InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula, Danang; 84511/393-8888; danang. intercontinental.com; doubles from US$279.
Hyatt Regency Danang Trưong Sa, Hoa Hai Ward, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang; 84-511/3981234; danang.regency.hyatt.com; doubles from US$210. The Nam Hai Đien Dương, Đien Bàn, Quang Nam; 84-510/9400000; thenamhai.com; doubles from US$650. Fusion Maia Danang Trưong Sa, Khuê My, Ngũ Hành Sơn, Danang; 84-511/396-7999; fusionmaiadanang.com; doubles from US$429. Victoria Hoi An Cua Đai Beach, Hoi An, Quang Nam; 84510/392-7040; doubles from VND3,392,000. Anantara Hoi An Resort In the heart of Hoi An old town. 1 Pham Hong Thai St., Hoi An; 84-510/391-4555; life-resorts. com; doubles from VND3,836,218. The Ocean Villas Rental homes, some beachfront. Son Tra, Dien Ngoc Coastal St., Danang; 84-511/396-7094; theoceanvillas.com.vn; pool villas from VND10,210,000 for one bedroom. EAT & DRINK Mango Rooms 111 Nguyen Thái Hoc, Hoi An; 84-510/3910839; mangorooms.com; dinner for two from VND400,000. Tiêm Bánh MÌ Phuong Hoàng Dieu, near the corner of Tran Hưng Đao, Hoi An; bánh mì from VND15,000. White Marble Wine Bar 98 Le
boom. The economy is chugging, and GDP growth in Danang has been double the national rate for the past two years. Lest you fear masses of sun-seekers, just take a boat a couple of kilometers out and look back: the beaches of Danang are hardly overrun. “Now, everyone’s waiting for the people to come,” says Mr. Van, whose clientele has grown since 2008 from mostly returning American war veterans to include Australian, Japanese and Chinese travelers. “I think they need four or five more years.” In fact, there’s loads of virgin oceanfront property. Indochina Land, for one, owns the rights to a single 40-hectare plot as well as a few others that remain undeveloped. That’s good news if you’re looking for a gem of a destination that’s on-the-map but undercrowded, offering unfettered R&R and glimpses of My Khe that evoke the era when it was China Beach and Saigon was the Pearl of the Far East. “Danang,” as Ryder cryptically told me, “is the diamond stud in the navel of the East Asian universe.” He might be referring to the shoreline—ahem—pierced by ever-more hotels (next up, a Hilton and a Novotel). But I think the best translation has more sting: Watch your back, Phuket. ✚ Loi St., Hoi An; visithoian.com/ whitemarble; whitemarble@ visithoian.com; set menu for two from VND370,000. Cargo Club Bustling French café. 107-109 Nguyen Thai Hoc St., Hoi An; 84-510/391-1227; restaurant-hoian.com; dinner for two from VND630,000. Q Bar 94 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Hoi An; 84-510/391-964; drinks for two from VND250,000. Before And Now 51 Le Loi St., Hoi An; drinks for two from VND100,000. Citron Taittinger Sunday brunch; book an outdoor booth in the clouds. InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort; 84-511/393-8888; danang. intercontinental.com/citron; freeflow brunch VND1,198,000. La Maison 1888 InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort; 84-511/3938888; danang.intercontinental. com/la-maison-1888; set dinner for two from VND4,116,000. Seafood shacks Sandy, casual restaurant-row. Cua Đai Beach near Lac Long Quan, Hoi An; dinner for two from VND400,000. DO Mr. Van Pham Private guide can organize tours to anywhere in the region. 84-9/8428-7706; halfday tours from US$20. Reaching Out Arts, crafts and jewelry handmade by disabled artisans for fair wages. 103 Nguyen Thai Hoc St., Hoi An;
84-510/391-0168; reachingoutvietnam.com; tours of the workshop are free. Red Bridge Cooking School 98 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street, Hoi An; 84-510/386-3210; visithoian.com/redbridge; classic half-day food tour and cooking class US$30 per person. Motorbike tours Danang Easy Riders: Mr. Tham; 84-9/13473820; danangeasyriders.com. Danang Motorbike Tour: Mr. Tien; 84-9/0359-5989; danangmotorbiketour.com. Reunification Express Train Ocean views from the mountain route between Hue and Danang. 84-9/0461-9926; vietnamrailway.com; seats from US$11. Laguna Lang Co Golf Club Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune; Phu Loc Dist., Thua Thien Hue; 84-54/369-5880; lagunalangco. com/golf; visitor 18 holes from VND1,470,000 per person, weekdays, including caddy. The Dunes Danang Golf Club, My Khe Beach, Danang; 84511/395-8111; dananggolfclub. com; guest 18 holes from VND2,200,000 including caddy. Montgomerie Links Dien Ngoc Commune, Dien Ban Dist., Quang Nam; 84-510/394-1942; montgomerielinks.com; guest 18 holes from VND1,600,000. Golf Life Tours Travel and golf with a private pro. 61/422-578162; golflifetours.com; threenight, three-course Coastal Golf package from A$500 per person.
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At Flow, the emphasis is on all things fine.
dining
Sated in Saigon
Sure, streetside noodle stalls still dot the sidewalks, but Naomi Lindt discovers a whole other world of dining options, some of which will surprise you and your tastebuds. Photographed by Christopher Wise
Clockwise from left: Shri offers 360-degree views of Saigon from 23 floors above; outside tables at the restaurant are the ones to book; El Gaucho is the spot for meat lovers.
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or gourmands, it is easy to stay infinitely satiated in Ho Chi Minh City from morning till night. Whether it’s an early morning bowl of freshly barbecued pork served over noodles and heaps of herbs cooked up by a street vendor or a decadent, multi-course French meal rendered by a renowned chef and served in the most refined of surroundings, gastronomic pleasures in the city abound. And now, a host of eateries, whose offerings span the globe from Naples to Argentina, are drawing on the city’s entrepreneurial, cosmopolitan roots more than ever. Like so much in the city these days, it’s impossible to keep up with all the hottest spots, so we’ve gathered a list to tempt your palate.
FLOW Housed in a renovated warehouse along a quiet side street of bustling District One, French-managed Flow brings together many of life’s pleasures—fine food, fine art, fine wines. The classically trained Vietnamese chef at the helm, Hung Nguyen, brings a youthful, contemporary approach to his France-meets-Vietnam menu, with dishes like seared lamb served with diced black olives, truffles and bitter, spicy la lot leaves, and a pho-inspired beef consommé accompanied by market-fresh tiger prawns from Phu Quoc. T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
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There’s also an array of traditional homemade pastas with ingredients like goat cheese and sun-dried tomatoes, and decadent desserts—strawberry mascarpone served in a cocktail glass; pannacotta with an espresso reduction. The industrialchic surroundings are similarly lavish yet unconventional, with concrete floors, red and black velvet seating, and a long white marble bar backed by dozens of bottles of wine. Walls serve as an art gallery for the colorful, Asia-inspired paintings of Hélène Kling, an artist who has lived in Vietnam since 1996. 88 Ho Tung Mau; 84-8/ 3915-3691; dinner for two VND1,000,000.
SHRI With a name like Shri—a Hindu word for god or illumination— this restaurant and lounge certainly set its ambitions high when it opened atop the Centec Tower in District Three. From its perch on the 23rd floor and the commanding, 360-degree views of Saigon’s twinkling cityscape from the white linen–clad dining room and frangipani-lined outdoor terrace, Shri doesn’t disappoint. The uber-sophisticated setting is matched with an equally urbane menu, whose contemporary European treasures include a 200-gram Wagyu beef tenderloin accompanied by seasonal vegetables and a choice of eight sauces ranging from horseradish cream to wild mushroom; a sea bass wrapped in Serrano ham with olive oil mash and gremolata; and a pepper duck breast served with gratin dauphinois. There’s also a number of simple yet creative dishes for smaller appetites, like a roast lamb and arugula salad or a papardelle pasta with sundried tomatoes and ricotta cheese. Everything simply shines here, from the gorgeously presented meals to the sparkling glassware to the 200-plus selection of Old and New World wines, handpicked by general manager and sommelier Ashley Nichols, who trained at London’s Michelin-starred Chez Bruce. 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai; 84-8/3827-9631; dinner for two VND1,200,000.
From top: El Gaucho is based on an Argentine steak house; one of Pizza 4P’s wood-fired pizzas; the eatery’s oven.
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Clockwise from right: Strawberry parfait at the FrancoVietnamese Flow; tuna carpaccio with tomatoes, olives, frisée and poached quail eggs at Shri; Shri rooftop bar and restaurant.
CUC GACH QUAN While many of Saigon’s eateries channel contemporary spaces in cities like Bangkok or Singapore, Cuc Gach Quan is refreshingly old school. Architect Tran Binh designed the multi-storied eatery in an old French colonial villa in a remote corner of District One to look and feel like his grandmother’s home in the countryside, with mismatched wooden tables, vintage dishes and rickety bookcases. Apparently, his nostalgia for the past is striking a chord for many a Saigonese, judging by the packed tables and bustling atmosphere every night. Reservations are essential, as are recommendations from the waitstaff considering the mammoth menu, which features page upon page of classic Vietnamese home cooking (there are more than 30 types of vegetables alone). First-time diners should sample the excellent, silky homemade tofu, crispy seabass topped with a tangy passion fruit sauce and the caramelized pork in clay pot, which melts in your mouth. Its sister restaurant Cuc Gach Café, modeled on a 1970's Vietnamese home, is a popular spot for its set lunch, which changes daily. 10 Dang Tat; 84-8/3848-0144; dinner for two VND600,000; Cuc Gach Café, 79 Phan Ke Binh, 848/3911-0120.
EL GAUCHO SAIGON A successful brand with outlets around the world, El Gaucho’s concept is not new, but the quality of meats that this Saigon outlet has brought to the city certainly is. It’s a must for any meat-lover seeking that perfect cut of beef or lamb. Since amiable, chatty brothers Nathan and Dini Himi opened El Gaucho in March 2011 across from the Park Hyatt, the place has quickly become an expat favorite. Regulars cite the restaurant’s warm, welcoming ambiance—exposed brick walls, dark brown leather booths, mismatched wooden chairs and tables, exposed steel beams, black-and-white photos on the walls, stellar service, which is carried out by an experienced
Cuc Gach Quan’s nostalgic theme is striking a chord for many a Saigonese, judging by the packed tables
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team of servers from around the world. Along with excellent food and wine, of course, it’s winning combination that merits repeat visits. Though the place is themed on a contemporary Argentine steak house with features like a handmade charcoal grill, prime cuts are imported from Australia and the U.S., with the American prime rib being a house specialty (be sure to check out the huge cuts of meat displayed like fine pastries on the ground floor). There are nearly 60 vintages from around the world on offer here, which can be enjoyed at one of the candle-lit tables or at the large, wood-and-steel bar paired with an order of beef carpaccio or wild mushroom empanadas. An outlet in Hanoi just opened and a Hoi An location opens later this year. 5D Nguyen Sieu, 84-8/3825-1879; dinner for two VND1,500,000.
PIZZA 4P’S Thirty-three-year-old Yosuke Masuko left a job as a venture capitalist in IT to pursue his great passion: handmade, wood-fired pizza. He opened Pizza 4P’s down a quaint alley off of Le Thanh Ton in October 2011, the culmination of an obsession that’s included pizza-themed trips to Naples and building stone ovens for sport back in his native Japan. The restaurant’s sleek quarters are chic yet cozy, with stone block walls, pale grey wooden floors and aubergine-hued accents. Naturally, a grand pizza oven stands front and center, where guests gather around a circular, marble table and watch the red Ray Ban-wearing Japanese chef, Yoshi, create his masterpieces. Classic renditions like the addictive margarita are topped with the homemade buffalo mozzarella, while gutsier versions might feature local specialties like edible flowers or Japanese flourishes like teriyaki chicken. Not only are the pies to die for, but the concept here is pretty neat, too: the restaurant’s name stands for “Platform of Personal Pizza for Peace,” conveying Masuko’s intention to educate his patrons about healthy food as a social platform. Every month a contest is held for a new pizza recipe, with the winning entry becoming a permanent item on the restaurant’s ever-growing menu. 8/15 Le Thanh Ton; 84-8/3822-9838; pizza4ps.com; dinner for two VND700,000.
Bobby Chinn Saigon will feature small plates inspired by Chinn’s travels throughout Asia and beyond
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From top: Pan Seared Scallops with Pea Purée and Beetroot Relish at Shri rooftop bar and restaurant; El Gaucho restaurant.
BOBBY CHINN SAIGON The long-awaited grand opening of Bobby Chinn Saigon, the second installation of the acclaimed TV personality and celebrity chef’s eponymous restaurants, finally happened in February 2012. In a moody, dimly lit space hung with contemporary Vietnamese art and draped in silk, the menu will feature small plates inspired by Chinn’s travels throughout Asia and beyond: Moroccan bisteeya (braised squab wrapped in crispy almond-scented rice paper), sticky rice dumplings filled with mung bean puree, green tea smoked duck with pomegranate duck au jus, filet mignon spring rolls. Customized tasting menus will also be available. Sustainability is a priority at Chinn’s new restaurant, with organic produce and onsite purified water to minimize the use of plastic bottles. Kumho Asiana Plaza Saigon, 39 Le Duan St.; 84-8/6291-7788; bobbychinn.com; dinner for two VND1,500,000. ✚
c h ec k-i n
Surf and Sustenance
The trading port-turned-unesco World Heritage Site of Hoi An may be known for its preserved traditional architecture, but luxury resorts have sprung up along the nearby stretch of sand formerly known as China Beach, making the area’s culinary scene another reason to visit. The Fusion Alya is one of the new and innovative highend resorts claiming a patch on the Cua Dai shorefront. The three-hectare plot features 98 rooms and villas, each with trellis-shaded balconies, designed to pay tribute to Hoi An’s Portuguese legacy with lofty arches and earth-toned exteriors. The resort’s focus, though, is food, with all meals included as part of the room rate. The all-day dining menus in the main restaurant and pool bar feature, in addition to international standards, northern and central delicacies like bun cha (barbecued pork in broth with cold noodles) and banh khoai (egg pancake with shrimp and bean sprouts). Want to explore the area without skipping a meal? Dishes at Fusion Lounge, located along the river in Hoi An’s Old Quarter, are also included in the rate. Other perks at no extra charge are foodie-friendly tours of local farms and wet markets, as well as Vietnamese cooking classes. 84-510/391-4414; fusionalyahoian.com; doubles from US$290.—ka r ry n m iller CHECKING IN From the top: A relaxing beachfront view from the pool villa; interiors of the pool villa; a peek inside the penthouse.
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C O U R T E S Y O F T H E F U S I O N A LYA ( 3 )
Hoi An is a growing hot-spot for luxury resorts, but these villas are as much about the food as the beach
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