Southeast asia
may 2016
Goa Now a stylish place to unwind
Bangkok: Changing Chinatown
A glimpse inside North Korea
Singapore S$7.90 / Hong Kong HK$43 Thailand THB175 / Indonesia IDR50,000 Malaysia MYR18 / Vietnam VND85,000 Macau MOP44 / Philippines PHP240 Burma MMK35 / Cambodia KHR22,000 Brunei BND7.90 / Laos LAK52,000
Komodo Island, Flores • Indonesia
Rejoice yourself in nature turn a new leaf in life During your busy life, sometimes you forget to stop and reflect. In Indonesia, we give you just that. Breathe. Pause. Enjoy the moment. Mountains, beaches, or even nightlife in the cities take your pick. Immerse in our traditions. Forget your responsibilities. It’s time to play. When you let it, life will take you to unexpected places. We know you wont to leave too soon. www.indonesia.travel
indonesia.travel
@indtravel
indonesia.travel
Tinker, Toy, Play Kids rule! That’s what the little ones like to tell us, at least. Le Meridien is more than happy to play along, so we’ve introduced Le Meridien Family to celebrate toying, tinkering and free-play for children of all ages at all of our hotels. Make-believers, aspiring inventors, junior chefs and pint-size culture-seekers are invited to build new worlds—or just puppets or popsicles... Whatever their hearts, minds and imaginations desire.
A D V ER T I S EMEN T
To facilitate all the family fun, Le Meridien offers up to half off a second room for kids up to 21 years old, and free meals for children under 12 when you’re eating together. Just browse through the complimentary Discovery Guide full of nearby family-friendly attractions to augment your adventures. The wee ones’ welcome begins with a free Lego toy upon check in. All you’ve got to do is “Lego” of their hands and set them loose to build, explore, and maybe even rock and roll in the new fully interactive Kids Clubs at all our resorts. Le Meridien Family is about more than vacation; it’s illuminating, imaginative, immersive and inventive. Let’s play.
For more information www.lemeridienfamily.com
FAMILY FUN HOLIDAYS
CREATED FOR YOU Centara Hotels & Resorts offers luxurious family-friendly accommodation in gorgeous, tropical Thailand and beyond. Relax in the comfort of top-quality rooms, suites and pool villas, with glorious beaches, exhilarating water activities, local culture and thrilling nightlife just moments away. While parents are enjoying themselves at our ultra-lavish spa and multitude of dining option, kids can go wild at our sensational waterparks and at our fully-supervised, multi-age kids’ clubs. THAILAND
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SRI LANKA
BOOK DIRECT FOR OUR BEST PRICE PROMISE centarahotelsresorts.com E: reservations@chr.co.th T: +66 2101 1234 # 1
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VIETNAM
May
ON THE COVER Lounging at a resort in a revitalized Goa. Photograph by Tom Parker.
features
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Goa Grows Up India’s idyllic beach state, once the preserve of backpackers, is being transformed into one of the subcontinent’s most stylish places to unwind. By Nayantara Kilachand. Photographed by Tom Parker
92
North Korea While the mere mention of this secluded nation evokes instant images, there’s more to daily life in North Korea than meets the casual eye. Story and photographs by Scott A. Woodward 92 100
c l o c k w i s e F R O M t o p LE F T: s c o t t a . w o o d wa r d ; k i t y e n g c h a n ; t o m pa r k e r ; s i m o n wat s o n
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100 Kilometers of Kedah Chasing sharks by day and a yacht’s wake at dusk, Marco Ferrarese discovers a few more surprises on the less-visited coast of northwest Malaysia’s Kedah state. Photographed by Kit Yeng Chan
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Bigger Better Budapest Hungary’s capital has entered its most profound period of transformation since its imperial zenith. Stephen Heyman explores the proud city. Photographed by Simon Watson
t r a v e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m / m a y 2 0 1 6
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In Every Issue T+L Digital 14 Contributors 16 Editor’s Note 18 The Conversation 20 Deals 76 Wish You Were Here 118
departments
25 Hidden in the Hills A new
minimalist-chic eco-lodge in Khao Yai, northeast of Bangkok.
of the English soul singer.
26 Joss Stone The fabulous world 28 Yacht Rock This season’s
hottest accessories are inspired by the deep blue sea.
Filipino chef shares her culinary
30 Margarita Fores The renowned discoveries from all corners of the Philippines.
32 Strong Suits Stylish swimwear for a summer in Europe.
a youthful makeover.
36 Breaking the Mold Vienna gets
Beyond 39 Big Treble in Little China Soi
Nana is drawing the cool crowds to Bangkok’s old Chinatown.
61 Family Special From the not-so-
rhythmic roof raising with Bali’s
44 Hey, Mr. DJ A tutorial in hottest spin doctor.
46 Capital Gains The pace is picking up in Burma’s new capital, Naypyitaw.
universal language of peekaboo to our top spots to take the tots, this year’s guide to traveling with the brood is packed with fun for everyone.
Upgrade
71 Continental Thrift Up-to-date
48 Back to Nature “Rewilding” the hills and valleys of eastern Portugal.
strategies to make your next trip to Europe smoother, smarter, and, yes, cheaper.
52 Happily Adrift The joys of a long cruise across the Atlantic.
wine culture grows in the south
56 Britain in a Bottle An unlikely
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The Guide
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of England.
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F R O M LE F T: c e c r i c a r n o l d ; s t e p h e n d r u c k e r ; ta r a d a r b y; v i c t o r p r a d o
Here & Now
t+l digital
+
Lookout
5 HOT SINGAPOREAN RESTAURANTS From celebrity chef outposts to gourmet pizza, we check out the Lion City’s coolest new eateries.
SOUTHERN CHARM IN TAIWAN Kaosiung, Tainan, Taitung and the southern coast offer plenty to lure travelers, from surfing to contemporary art.
4 BUZZING BARBER SHOPS These retro salons around the region aim to bring back the good old days of men’s grooming.
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fr o m l e f t : c o u rt esy o f m a r i n a bay sa n d s ; a l b e rto b u z zo l a ; c o u rt esy o f e r a ba r b e r s
this month on tr avelandleisureasia.com
Melbourne goes nuts for Singaporean cuisine; how to be an eco-friendly traveler; a new beachside rum bar on Koh Samui; the latest travel deals and much more.
A Splashing Good Time only at Meritus Pelangi, Langkawi Book an island holiday for a memorable family getaway For further information and reservations please visit: www.meritushotels.com I Email resvn.pelangi@meritushotels.com I (604)9528888
contributors
2
Melanie Lee
Scott A. Woodward
Fun on the Farm Page 61 — As our guinea pigs touring farms in Singapore’s rural Kranji, Lee and her son both loved the frog farm, though for different reasons. “The café sold fresh hashima (frog’s fallopian tubes), a chilled dessert, supposedly good for the skin and the respiratory system,” she says. The whole region was full of good eats, in fact. “We made pit stops between farms to pluck duku fruit, growing randomly along the road. They were some of the sweetest I’ve tasted.” For incity family fun, Lee and son suggest eco-friendly kids’ creative space Playeum, at Gillman Barracks. Instagram: @melanderings.
North Korea Page 92 — Woodward says his minders asked little about his life in Canada or Singapore. “I never considered that North Koreans wouldn’t be as interested in life outside the Hermit Kingdom as I was in life inside it.” A rare occasion of connection: “While hiking with our minder in Manphok Valley, we met a large group of North Koreans. None spoke English, but after lots of hellos and smiles and handshakes, they asked if they could take a group photo with us, to which we happily agreed. It’s a wonderful memory of the warmth and humanity I encountered throughout the DPRK.” Instagram: @scottawoodward.
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Nayantara Kilachand
Ron Gluckman
Goa Grows Up Page 80 — Over the past 30 years, Kilachand has watched India’s coastal state of Goa evolve from a collection of sleepy beach towns into a style destination. “There used to be just a few hotels and fewer restaurants,” says the Mumbai-based writer. “It’s vastly different now.” Her perfect day there revolves around food: a chili-spiked omelette at Natti’s Naturals, fried fish and curry rice from any beach shack for lunch, Burmese fusion at Bomras. Anahata Retreat, on Ashwem Beach, is another spot she loves returning to. “It’s a throwback to the Goa I knew as a child, but with the addition of killer cocktails.”
Big Treble in Little China Page 39 — Gluckman has spent many years in Bangkok’s older sector, near the river. “Nana’s renaissance began a decade ago at About Café, an artsy hangout that drew hipsters to the ’hood. Enthralled by the shophouses, many early patrons moved in.” Best time to visit? “Sunset light really brings out the features in the buildings, but the action is best evening to late. The magic to these neighborhoods is bumping into old friends, or making new ones. Keep an eye on Charoen Krung closer to River City, where galleries like Soy Sauce, lively Soul Bar and new bistros like 80/20 are springing up all the time.” Instagram: @rongluckman.
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fr o m t o p : H o n g y i n c h u a ; COU R TESY O F S c o t t A . W o o d wa r d ; COU R TESY O F N aya n ta r a K i l a c h a n d ; COU R TESY O F R o n G l u c k m a n
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editor’s note
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One of the things to love about travel is that sense of seeing
@CKucway chrisk@mediatransasia.com
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m ay 2 0 1 6 / t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m
From My Travels
It was time for me to revisit Tokyo’s Tsukiji fish market before it moves later this year. I was happy to find that the place remains a mad panic of selling every type of seafood you can imagine (and some you cannot), meaning every visit is different. Of course, you have to see the commercial hubbub as the sun rises over the Japanese capital and, after a walk through the whirlwind, go for a sushi and beer breakfast in the small restaurants around the market. It’s a place I’ll miss—which is probably why I went two mornings in a row.
fr o m l e f t: t h a n a k o r n c h o m n awa n g ; C h r i s t o p h e r k u c way
a place for the first time. I’m speaking not of a destination’s postcard impressions, but its essence. If you’re lucky, the truth of a place is something you may catch sight of on your first visit. This was the case recently for Scott A. Woodward, whose photo essay from North Korea (page 92) ever-so-slightly peels back the veneer of that secluded country, challenging many of the assumptions of those of us who have never been. Travel aims to open doors and, in North Korea’s case, those portals are a tough ask, but Woodward’s eye and his genuine curiosity do offer a glimpse. We spend a lot of time in this issue digging deeper. Think of Goa, for example, and your mind will likely conjure the backpacker trail. In “Goa Grows Up” (page 80), you’ll read about how the Indian getaway has ratcheted it up a notch with a creative mix of artists, chefs and hoteliers growing in stature. No longer simply a break from Mumbai and New Delhi, it’s a luxury stop in its own right. Twisting that idea around slightly, if you equate Budapest only with historic façades, then read our update on it (“Bigger Better Budapest,” page 108). Some of its more resourceful residents have taken over heritage sites that lay in ruins, injecting them with new life in the form of bars and markets. Another reason why we return to familiar stops on the map.
the conversation What’s on the new European tour for Asian travelers? London and Paris are ever popular, but smaller cities are seeing the most dramatic growth. From Agoda’s Travel Smart study, comparing hotel bookings year-onyear, here are the hottest new spots in Europe for tourists from our region:
Increase in hotel bookings by visitors from Asia, 2014 to 2015
Glasgow U.K.
85.1%
Scottish culture and commerce capital
Oxford U.K.
Cesky Krumlov Czech Republic
78.3%
3
“The City of Dreaming Spires”
70.7%
Bohemian town, 13th century castle
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Fussen Germany
87.3%
Neuschwanstein Castle, abbey of St. Mang
#TLASIA
Tourism bragging rights
5 2
1
Hallstatt Austria
101.4%
Ancient salt-mine village of just 1,000
This May, our readers hop on all kinds of boats to see the region’s wonders
Blue ombré on Koh Lipe, Thailand. By @lanniesu
Paddling through Tonle Sap, Cambodia. By @leehorbachewski
Slow-boating down the Mekong, in Huay Xai, Laos. By @witwat65
Locals celebrating the Thadingyut Festival, in Burma. By @monoubani
Share an Instagram photo by using the #TLAsia hashtag, and it may be featured in an upcoming issue. Follow @travelandleisureasia
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DISCOVER MYANMAR. FROM MYANMAR’S GREAT CITIES TO RIVERBANKS WHERE OXEN COME TO DRINK, THIS LUXURIOUS CRUISER GLIDES THROUGH BREATHTAKING LANDSCAPES UNTOUCHED BY TIME.
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NAUMI HOTEL 41 Seah Street Singapore 188396 Call +65 6403 6003 or email reservations@naumihotels.com to make your bookings now Naumi is an intimate retreat in Singapore that presents a selection of 73 elegantly-appointed rooms. Luxury and design cocoon both business and leisure travelers in comfort including a huge selection of handpicked original design pieces from B&B Italia, Poltrona Frau, Tom Dixon, Artemide, along with a curated portfolio of Singaporean art.
Set in the heart of the Singapore’s Central Business District, the hotel also features three fully-equipped meeting and event space, the Indian casual dining restaurant Table by Rang Mahal and Cloud9, a roof top infinity pool and bar offering spectacular views of the Singapore skyline.
Enjoy one night stay in the Habitat Room at a subsidised rate of S$190 nett.
To enjoy your benefit, please find your staycation vouchers in the voucher pocket of the Membership summary guide.
NAUMI HOTEL NEAR-AWAY! BY AMERICAN EXPRESS IS OPEN TO BASIC PLATINUM RESERVE CREDIT CARD MEMBERS. • Card Member must make advance reservation with Naumi at +65 6403 6003. Any use of vouchers must be stated at time of reservation. • All reservations are subject to availability and not applicable during blackout dates (i.e. eves of Holidays and Public Holiday) or days of high occupancy. Please contact Naumi for more information. A room reservation confirmation letter or email (in soft or hardcopy) must be presented, along with the physical voucher and your Platinum Reserve Credit Card upon check-in. • Offer may not be combined with other hotel programmes or special offers and is not available on pre-existing reservations. • Card Member is responsible for their parking charges during the whole period of stay at Naumi Hotel and no complimentary parking will be provided. • No show or cancellation policies apply in accordance to the hotels’ policies. Please check with hotel for details. • Accommodation is for a maximum of two (2) adults and is inclusive of all applicable tax and service charges for such accommodation. Breakfast is not included. Cost of meals and all other incidentals (including applicable tax and service charges), will be charged to the Card Member’s Platinum Reserve Credit Card. • Merchant’s Terms and Conditions apply – please check with respective merchants for details. American Express acts solely as a payment provider and is not responsible or liable in the event that such services, activities or benefits are not provided or fulfilled by the merchant. Merchants are solely responsible for the fulfilment of all benefits and offers. • American Express does not assume liability and American Express Card Member(s) shall not make any claim whatsoever for (i) injury or bodily harm or (ii) loss of damage to property, howsoever caused, arising from, or in connection with these benefits and privileges. • Programme benefits, participating merchants and Terms and Conditions may be amended or withdrawn without prior notice at the sole discretion of the American Express International Inc. Should there be any disputes, the decision of American Express will be final and no correspondence may be entertained. American Express International Inc., (UEN S68FC1878J) 20 (West) Pasir Panjang Road #08-00, Mapletree Business City, Singapore 117439. americanexpress.com.sg Incorporated with Limited Liability in the State of Delaware, U.S.A.® Registered Trademark of American Express Company. © Copyright 2016 American Express Company.
N e ws + t r e n d s + d i sc o v e r i e s
debut
Hidden in the Hills
Ph c o oto u r t eCsrye d oift tTh e e kbay irder’s lodge
A new eco-lodge in Khao Yai is luring Bangkokians out of their condos and into the great outdoors. By Pip Usher
Good things come in small packages and The Birder’s Lodge (66-44/300-185; fb.com/ thebirderslodge; lodges from Bt3,000) will steal your heart with its perfectly appointed, pint-sized cabins. This rustic retreat, just a few hours drive from Bangkok, is right on the outskirts of Khao Yai National Park, a woodland felicity. The burgeoning tourist scene has seen a number of sleek hotels set up shop but for those seeking something a little different, The Birder’s Lodge brings homelike elegance to the great outdoors.
Simplicity may be prioritized here, but it doesn’t come at the cost of style. During my stay I was struck by the clever design of the houses—with angular corners, weathered wooden exteriors and vast windows— catering to a pared-down, hipster asceticism. Each of the five homes, ranging in size from 30 to 46 square meters, has a kitchen, living room and comfortable seats from which to admire the jagged, mountainous landscape beyond. As dusk fell, and the hills were bathed shades of pink and periwinkle, I ate alfresco on my
small patio, using the house’s barbecue to grill up a selection of vegetables and meats that The Birder’s Lodge had thoughtfully provided. After dark, I cozied up in bed, filled and fulfilled. The next morning I had a spot-on breakfast at the on-site coffee shop, which serves up eggs and toast in the morning, as well as a selection of caffeine and sugar fixes throughout the day. It is an appealing spot to while away the hours, but a bicycle propped outside each cabin hints at the many adventures to be had.
The Birder’s Lodge cabins blend into the rustic setting.
t r a v e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m / m a y 2 0 1 6
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/ here&now / My Fabulous World
Joss Stone
2 3 this world. I like how Singapore is so sci-fi and yet there are these lovely touches of nature. FAVORITE FOREST
LOCAL CONNECTION
Without music, I would never have had the opportunity to travel to all these beautiful places around the world. While long-haul flights are hell and give me crap skin, the minute I land somewhere, I cannot wait to immerse myself in that place. SCI-FI SINGAPORE
While I was in Singapore performing for the Singapore International Jazz Festival a
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few months ago, I was really chuffed to be staying at
(1) Marina Bay Sands
(marinabaysands.com; doubles from S$449), because it was just a stone’s throw away from Gardens by the Bay (gardensbythebay.com. sg). That park is super weird and kind of cool. The giant metal trees there remind me of some kind of alien life form. I sent photos of the place to my brother and he thought it was out of
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I’m surrounded by a lot of nature in my hometown in Devon. Just a few minutes’ drive from my place is (2) Blackbury Camp. I like to walk really deep in just before the sun sets because at that time, the birds will all perch themselves on trees and start talking to each other. It is absolutely magical. NEW YORK STATE OF MIND
I may have grown up in the countryside, but New York is also home to me because I have many good friends there. My favorite club is
The Village Underground
(thevillageunderground.com; US$10 entry fee) because it’s such a cozy, friendly place for live music. Also, the food there is amazing. I’ve been vegetarian since I was born and, in my opinion, 3) Blossom Restaurant
(blossomnyc.com; dinner for two US$70) is the best place to get organic vegetarian food. SWINGING THROUGH BALI
Everything about Ubud is gorgeous, but what I remember most about the place is the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary (monkeyforestubud.
com; entry Rp40,000). I love animals and those baby monkeys there are just absolute cuties! — As told to Melanie Lee
c l o c k w i s e fr o m l e f t: K atj a R u g e / T h e H e l l G at e / C o r b i s ; A d a m B u r t o n / r o b e r t h a r d i n g / g e t t y i m a g e s ; c o u r t e s y o f M a r i n a B ay S a n d s ; c o u r t e s y o f B l o s s o m R e s ta u r a n t ( 2 )
1
The British soul singer, currently on her Total World Tour to promote her album Water for Your Soul, shares her favorite stops, from Singapore to New York.
/ here&now / Flying Colors The latest must-have for your carry-on: coloring books designed for adults, featuring complex illustrations ranging from forest fauna to architectural wonders. Research suggests that coloring can lower stress levels, and these books will fill hours of flight time. Our current favorite, Gulliver’s New Travels (Barron’s Educational Series; US$13), depicts Lilliputian worlds. Pair it with a Prismacolor pencil set (prismacolor.com; US$10 for a set of eight)—the brand of choice for devotees, with fine-point pencils that allow you to fill in every last detail. — Lindsey Ol ander
tech
fr o m t o p : p h i l i p fr i e d m a n ; c o u r t e s y o f c a r lt o n h o t e l s i n g a p o r e
Get Smart
Hotels are betting that the key to your heart is in the palm of your hand. Smartphones are popping up in hotels all over the world in different incarnations. Following the lead of innovative local boutique competition like the New Majestic Hotel, Singapore, Carlton Hotel Singapore (carltonhotel.sg; doubles from S$280) just started giving all guests smartphones during their stay, providing unlimited 3G Internet, local and international calls, and a digital Singapore city guide that makes it easier to see the sights and get around. Starwood led the way in turning guests’ own
smartphones into room keys way back in 2014, and Hilton jumped on the bandwagon last year with an app that not only opens doors, but lets guests pick which exact room they book in advance, like choosing a plane seat. At the Peninsula hotels in Hong Kong, Shanghai, Paris and Chicago, guests are supplied with a Samsung tablet with preinstalled apps that control the temperature, lighting, sound, curtains and television in the rooms. You can even order room service. Who needs humans? — david ngo
/ here&now / Rose Des Vents bracelet, in 18-karat yellow gold, with diamond and lapis lazuli, for a little seafaring sparkle, by Dior. dior.com; US$2,050.
goods
Color-blocked wide-brim straw hat, by Banana Republic. bananarepublic.gap.com; US$48.
Yacht Rock
Chain-link scarf, perfect as a boho headband or swimsuit cover-up, by Diane von Furstenberg. dvf.com; US$280.
Long Line Surf Bralette with Surf Crochet Classic Hipster bottom, by Victoria’s Secret. victoriassecret.com; top and bottom US$100. Oversized cat-eyed One Splash Sea Blue sunglasses, with mirrored lenses, by Karen Walker. karenwalker.com; US$300.
Beach-friendly woven raffia Ambi clutch, big enough to hold your shades, sunscreen and a wallet, by AAKS. aaksonline.com; US$82.
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Tegra-Lite International Carry-On in Mediterranean-inspired cayenne–and–Moroccan–blue tile, by Tumi. tumi.com; US$695.
m ay 2 01 6 / t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a .c o m
Miller Sandal in snake-print leather, with cushioned leather insole, by Tory Burch. toryburch.com; US$225.
*Prices may vary by country and retailer.
c l o c k w i s e fr o m t o p l e f t: c o u r t e s y o f d v f ; c o u r t e s y o f d i o r ; c o u r t e s y o f B a n a n a R e p u b l i c ; c o u r t e s y o f v i c t o r i a’ s s e c r e t; c o u r t e s y o f T o r y B u r c h ; c o u r t e s y o f t u m i ; c o u r t e s y o f a a k s ; c o u r t e s y o f K a r e n Wa l k e r
This season “snorkeling blue,” a bright shade of azure, is making waves in the fashion scene—and what better color to carry you through a weekend of sailing and sunning? Here, our picks for high style on the high seas. By merrit t gurle y
/ here&now / Le Sens, Bangkok “To us, le sens means love you can feel,” says spa cofounder Yada Saengtananiramit. At this family spa there are treatments for mom, dad, baby, and the whole gang all together, ranging from Swedish and shiatsu massage to newborn hydrotherapy. The prenatal treatment is a standout, utilizing unscented oils and heated adjustable massage beds. The practitioners all have certificates in public health and a minimum of five years experience, so you are in good hands. lesensth.com; 60-minute pregnancy massage Bt2,900.
Wellness
Doctor’s Orders Yes, in pregnancy You’ve had to forgo booze, adventure sports and sushi. but we’ve found something fun that’s great for the baby, too. by merritt gurley
fr o m t o p : c o u r t e s y o f l e s e n s ( 2 ) ; c o u r t e s y o f f o u r s e a s o n s h o n g k o n g
Incubating a human isn’t
always the most delightful task, but on the upswing, pregnancy gives you carte blanche to get massages whenever your heart desires. Not only will regular therapeutic rubdowns alleviate the aches and pains associated with your growing bump, but studies have shown they regulate hormones, relieve stress and increase levels of dopamine and serotonin: all great stuff for the baby. So there’s never been a better time for a trip to the spa. Here, three urban settings for prenatal massage, where you can unwind from the city scramble and give your budding baby a boost.
Aman Tokyo The Aman Spa at Aman Tokyo provides a prenatal massage using local moisturizing Japanese rice and camellia oils for
women between four and nine months pregnant, a range considered safe by most doctors, but talk to your own physician before embarking on any of these spa treatments to find out what is safe for you. All the therapists here have been trained by maternity treatment specialists and the American-import Oakworks beds are ultra comfy. aman.com; 60-minute prenatal massage ¥26,000.
Four Seasons Hong Kong Developed by the senior spa director during her own pregnancy, the Mother’s Love prenatal treatment uses only natural organic oil and is designed to safely strengthen body and mind. You can lie on your side, or, bonus, facedown using their special pregnancy massage cushion that has
an adjustable indentation to accommodate your belly. The experience begins with a salt and honey scrub, to boost circulation, followed by an aloe wrap and a full-body, 90-minute massage to alleviate aches and reduce your swelling. fourseasons. com/hongkong; Mother’s Love massage from HK$2,500. Spa room at Four Seasons Hong Kong. from top, at le sens:
Prenatal yoga; mini massage.
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Timeline
Margarita Fores Filipina chef Margarita Forés (margaritafores.com) founded her food empire by bringing Italian cuisine to her home country after stints living in Florence and New York, but lately she’s pivoted towards discovering and exporting Philippine flavors. Though European dishes still dominate at her 10 restaurants, you can experience her new creations at Grace Park (63-2/843-7275), where local spices shine in recipes she’s been perfecting since childhood. Here she shares her journey through the country and her favorite finds along the way.
Naga, 2010 | “In any Filipino
market you have this ‘sachet economy’ so you see all the ingredients for a dish like laing [taro leaves and coconut milk] or ‘Bicol express’ [creamy pork stew] in one little bag meant for everyday cooking. It’s a great way to learn about the local cuisine quickly.”
Davao, 2011 | “During my visits I met Olive Puentespina of Malagos Farmhouse [malagos farmhouse.com]. She was just starting to make her cheeses, with techniques she learned from a Swiss master. Her family had a goat farm and she now makes very complex French-style cheeses using the local milk. It’s an exciting discovery that’s enriched the culinary scene. There’s also beautiful chocolate making a mark now in different parts of the world. I do a braised short rib with an adobo sauce using Davao chocolate.”
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Bohol, 2015 | “It was here I realized that each province has its own iconic dish that never reaches Manila. I discovered halanghalang, chicken cooked with coconut, turmeric and lemongrass. There are also interesting ingredients like takla, somewhat like crayfish. They cook it in coconut milk with ginger but I’m just imagining doing it in a pasta with olive oil, garlic and fresh tomatoes.”
Cagayan and the Cordillera, 2014 | “We had the
chance to actually plant heirloom rice and bury our feet in the mud the way our farmers have done for centuries. Seeing the women who make the earthenware pots and just discovering our roots was an emotional experience. And there were so many delicacies we didn’t even know about: fatty fish from the warm water, lobster, and smoked bacon from wild boars.
c l o c k w i s e fr o m t o p : M a r k N i c d a o ; © J o h n n y d a o / Dr e a m s t i m e . c o m ; c o u r t e s y o f k awa l i n g p i n o y. c o m ; c o u r t e s y o f m a l a g o s fa rm s ( 2 ) ; c o u r t e s y o f P e a r l Fa rm S a m a l B e a c h R e s o r t; c o u r t e s y o f k awa l i n g p i n o y. c o m
/ here&now /
Batanes, 2015 |
“The terrain looks like you’re in Ireland in the summer and because they are so isolated, you see how unique the Ivatan culture is, with Austronesian tribal influences and a language and customs so different from the rest of the country. Due to a lack of infrastructure, very little has changed in terms of their cuisine. They have this beautiful pork confit that they call lunyis, cooked only in salt in an earthen pot over a wood fire, and there’s a crab that comes out in the warm season and feeds on coconuts, so it tastes sweet. It’s highly protected so you can only eat it there.”
f r o m TOP : c o u r t e s y o f D e pa r t m e n t o f T o u r i s m C a g aya n Va l l e y R e g i o n ; © M a r k P e l o b e l l o / d r e a m s t i m e . c o m
HERITAGE OF SERENITY
Zamboanga and South Cotobato, 2016 | “This year I want to spend
more time in Mindanao, a part of the Philippines that even many Filipinos don’t know about. On a recent trip I found this powder called palapa, made from smoked chilies and coconut, with an unusual flavor profile.”
—as told to Stephanie zubiri
Escape to the peace and tranquility of Kamandalu Ubud, a 5-star boutique resort situated amid lush paddyfields in the green hills of Ubud. From your very own Balinese-inspired villa, step out to enjoy the warm hospitality of our staff and explore the natural surroundings that lie just beyond.
Jalan Andong Banjar Nagi Ubud, Bali 80571 Indonesia T +62 361 975 825 reservation@kamandaluresort.com www.kamandaluresort.com
/ here&now /
fashion
Strong Suits No matter where in Europe you find yourself this summer— surfing in Portugal, sunning in Santorini—you’ll need swimwear that rises to the occasion. Here, our guide to the best of the season. Photogr aphed by Victor Pr ado
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s t y l i s t: j i l l e d wa r d s / h a l l e y r e s o u r c e s
de ck plan
The Crystal Esprit—Crystal Cruises’ new 31-suite yacht equipped with a submarine, water skis and kayaks— is now sailing the Mediterranean, with stops in Slovenia, Montenegro and Cyprus (crystalcruises.com; six days from US$3,240 per person). What to wear when activities range from lying by the pool to rafting on the rivers of Croatia? A versatile Lisa Marie Fernandez suit with nautical details (lisa mariefernandez.com; US$445) or classic gingham trunks from Ralph Lauren (ralph lauren.com; US$350). >>
/ here&now / The Grace Santorini (grace santorini.com; doubles from US$657) unveils a full renovation this summer, but the best part of the Greek hotel remains unchanged: its views. The rooftop infinity pool is built into the cliffs, and looks out on the caldera. In typical Santorini fashion, the color palette is blue and white as far as the eye can see. There’s no better backdrop for Kate Spade’s color-blocked bandeau bikini (katespade. com; top, US$85; bottom, US$72) or bold, graphic shorts from Orlebar Brown (orlebarbrown.com; US$345).
For unspoiled Italian beaches, it’s hard to improve on Puglia. Stay at the new Masseria Le Carrube (masseria lecarrubeostuni. it; doubles from US$150), which has 19 rooms, a vegetarian restaurant, and an olive mill that dates back to the 12th century. It’s 20 minutes from Pilone, where you can show off your tan in a tie-dyed Made by Dawn bikini (madebydawn.com; top, US$137; bottom, US$127) or playful Missoni trunks (missoni.com; US$370).
S a nd Bl as t
p o ol pa r t y
Portugal has some of Europe’s top surf breaks, and Sagres, three hours from Lisbon, has consistently good waves. Martinhal Sagres Beach Family Resort (martinhal.com; doubles from US$456) is great for a brood, with half- or full-day surfing lessons for kids and adults. Stand out on the waters with a sporty neoprene Duskii one-piece (duskii.com; US$185) or bright orange shorts from Everest Isles (everestisles. com; US$235)—both are strategically cut to allow for a full range of movement. — STEPHANIE W U
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STILL- LI F E PHOTOG R APHS : VICTO R P R ADO . t R AVEL PHOTOG R APHS , F R O M TOP : s e r g e d e ta l l e ; c o u r t e s y o f M a r t i n h a l S a g r e s B e a c h Fa m i ly R e s o r t; c o u r t e s y o f M a s s e r i a L e C a rr u b e
p o ol pa r t y
/ here&now / Northern Lights Already a st yle and design powerhouse, Stockholm is also a burgeoning beaut y authorit y. These are the cult products and drugstore finds insiders swear by.
fr o m t o p : c o u r t e s y o f k l m ; c o u r t e s y o f b y r e d o ; c o u r t e s y o f fa c e s t o c k h o l m ; c o u r t e s y o f M a r i a Å k e r b e r g ; c o u r t e s y o f l : A b r u k e t ( 2 )
“swedish women take a natural approach to their looks,”
says Anja Skeppe Grahn, beauty editor at Styleby, a Stockholm-based fashion magazine. “Think Ingrid Bergman or Alicia Vikander, and you get our style.” The city has spawned plenty of cosmetics companies, but you’ll have to visit if you want to get the best products. Start at Byredo, in the shopping district of Norrmalm. Its newest fragrance is Super Cedar 1 (byredo.com; from €99), with Haitian vetiver and Virginian cedar. Nearby, at the Sachajuan salon (sachajuan.com), you can book a cut and stock up on signature products. Face Stockholm has stores around the world, but its Scandinavian bath collection 2 (facestockholm.com; from US$24) is sold only here. (Or stay at the new Haymarket by Scandic hotel, where the line is stocked in every room.) The city’s pharmacies (or “apotek”) are also full of beloved brands, such as Estelle & Thild—their BioCare Baby All-Weather Cream (estellethild.com; Kr149) is a favorite among adults— and Maria Åkerberg, whose rich Royal Body Oil 3 (maria akerberg.no; Kr250) is made with sea buckthorn. In Södermalm, L:A Bruket has opened its flagship store, selling clay face masks and salt spray for hair 4 (labruket.se; €18) with ingredients from Sweden’s western coast. The apex of any Stockholm beauty experience? A proper Swedish massage at the Grand Hôtel’s Nordic Spa & Fitness (grandhotel.se). It’s the retreat of choice for the style set, including Grahn: “I indulge there as often as possible.” — FIORELLA VALDESOLO
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Natural beauty brand L:A Bruket’s store in Södermalm.
Facebook Messenger has teamed up with KLM, in their first partnership with an airline, allowing KLM flyers to receive their itineraries, flight updates and check-in notifications, access their boarding passes; rebook flights; and chat with airline customer service all within one Facebook Messenger thread. Sure beats sitting on hold.
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/ here&now /
emerging
Breaking the Mold
A youthful spirit is sweeping through Vienna’s Wieden district, revamping its traditional pleasures and adding a new level of cool. by eimear lynch photogr aphed by Daniel Gebhart de Koekkoek
Glazed pottery at Feinedinge, ceramist Sandra Haischberger’s studio and shop.
come to Vienna for its old-world architectural glories, music and history of fin de siècle intellectualism. But there’s a bracingly young side of the city, too, particularly in the fourth district— which locals call Wieden—just a short stroll from Belvedere Castle. The newfound buzz comes largely from an influx of students, including aspiring artists and architects. “It has been a favorite of authors and intellectuals for a few years,” says Helena Hartlauer, a Vienna native who works with the tourism board. “There’s a mix of this older group and young students, which has made it dynamic, unusual and harmonic.” The neighborhood’s appeal starts with its shops, a departure from normally conservative Viennese fashion. Flo Vintage (flovintage.com) sells jumpsuits and sparkly frocks, and Jutta Pregenzer’s (pregenzer. com) cocoon coats and chartreuse sweaters feel like the core of a cool architect’s wardrobe. Elfenkleid (elfenkleid.com) carries trapeze dresses and floaty wedding gowns; Samstag (samstag-shop.com) stocks drapey tops, bright silk scarves and a men’s-wear line by the store’s owners. Up the road, ceramist Sandra Haischberger fires up delicate bowls, vases and plates at Feinedinge (feinedinge.at), her workshop-cum-store. There’s one element of old-school Vienna that no amount of modernity can erode: the tradition of spending hours bent over a newspaper at a café. In the fourth district, Café Goldegg (cafegoldegg.at; dishes €1–€12) is an Art Nouveau institution with a retro haze (indoor smoking is still allowed in Austria). And the food, from cakes to cheeseburgers, is better than what you’d get at similar spots in the center of town. For the coffee and cycling fanatic, Radlager (radlager.at) pours a strong brew and sells vintage Italian racing bikes. A few minutes away, Guerilla Bakery (guerillabakery.at) is a Scandi-style café that opened in January, run by three sisters who spent years selling
Clockwise from top left: Owner
most tr avelers
Peter Holzinger at his clothing store, Samstag; suede boots at Samstag; Radlager, a bike shop and café; almond-mango cupcakes at Guerilla Bakery.
quiches and cheesecake cupcakes around town. Wieden’s quotidian charm inspired Theresia Kohlmayr and a group of young architects to launch the Grätzlhotel (graetzlhotel.com; doubles from €118), a collection of 18 shop fronts converted into standalone hotel rooms. The unusual concept, which launched in this neighborhood and has since expanded to two other areas, is the
best combination of a hotel and an Airbnb: you pick up keys and grab a glass of crisp Austrian white at a “reception”—which could be a café, restaurant or Grätzlhotel office— then settle into a “room” that had a former life as a small business, perhaps a bakery or a lamp shop. “Every tourist sees the same things in the center of town,” Kohlmayr says, “but in the fourth district you can see how Viennese really live.”
check in: the grand ferdinand hotel A five-minute walk from Wieden, this new property on the Ringstrasse has 186 rooms with slate-colored walls and bright-white beds—a counterpoint to the city’s many traditional hotel interiors. The 1950s former mineral factory retains its Midcentury glamour with Lobmeyr chandeliers, a marble entrance and a rare Viennese amenity: a rooftop pool (grandferdinand.com; doubles from €180).
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AT NOVOTEL, CHILDREN stay for free In every Novotel around the world, children are considered very special guests. With Family&Novotel, accommodation and breakfast are free for 2 children under 16 who share a room with their parents or grandparents. Novotel also provides welcome gifts for children, facilities for babies and toddlers, play areas, balanced menus, 50%* off a 2nd room, and a room available up to 5pm on Sundays*. Visit our superb Novotel Hotels & Resorts in Bangkok, Chumphon, Hua Hin, Phuket, Rayong and Samui. * Accommodation and breakfast taken as a family are free for two children under 16 who share a room with their parents or grand-parents using existing bedding. For the 50% off a 2nd room offer, the discount applies to the best rate without condition. Offer subject to availability. For the room available up to 5pm, ask at reception upon arrival. Offers available all year round.
thailand | burma| bali| + more
Mongkol Sanla (far left) shares a laugh with his customers at 23 Bar & Gallery.
neighborhood
Big Treble in Little China
Community-minded art galleries, restaurants and bars are turning up the volume in Bangkok’s Chinatown. By Ron Gluckman. photographed by cedric arnold >> t r a v e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m / m a y 2 0 1 6
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/ beyond /n e i g h b o r h o o d “Chinatown is always changing,” says Victor Hierro, who runs Spanish tapas bar El Chiringuito with his Thai wife, Sudaporn Sae-ia. The formerly shuttered old shophouses near Hua Lamphong Station have begun reopening as some of the city’s coolest art galleries, pubs and shops, giving the Nana neighborhood new cachet.
Not to be confused with the nefarious Nana red-light area off lower Sukhumvit, this Nana is the latest blossoming rose of Bangkok’s Chinatown, a collection of architecturally intriguing buildings that feature a blend of Chinese gabled roofs with striking colonialtropical deco lines. While the majority of residents are ThaiChinese who were born and raised here, the new multicultural buzz is
bundled in three shorts blocks, bookended by an old Chinese Baptist church and cheap-eats diner Lad-na Heng Yod Pak. Many establishments are run by collectives, which eschew the term “business,” and avoid websites, regular hours or other trappings of the conformist norm, reflecting the artistic inclinations of Nana’s “other-preneurs.” The result is a charmingly progressive district with loads of
local character. Hierro is something of a senior statesman here. A longtime trader in Thai goods, he recently launched a guesthouse in a shophouse he remodeled. He was also involved with Cho Why, the seminal gallery that opened two years ago, a passion project founded by fellow Spaniard David Fernandez, and eight other friends with eclectic backgrounds typical of Nana’s newer residents. Fernandez was working for an arts magazine and organizing cultural activities for the embassy, and now he uses those skills to run the gallery and throw avant-garde events for the neighborhood. “We just do things we like, that are interesting,” says Fernandez. “That’s how Nana works.” Will it last? So many districts regentrifying get derailed by factors that include rising rents, disparate development and, ironically, success: the hype brings tourist traffic and commerce but can alter the very components that make hip ’hoods so charming. Architect Pornpas
Siricururatana, a lecturer at Bangkok’s Kasetsart University who studies local neighborhoods, thinks Nana can persevere. One of the area’s strongest assets, she says, is its layout. After a fire a century ago, the upper Chinatown district was rebuilt in a fan style structured around a central hub. The Nana blade is configured like a Parisian neighborhood, with walkways but no major throughway for cars. Besides bequeathing a blissful lack of traffic, this curtails commercial pressures. Also, the entire area has remained the property of a single landlord for generations, so there is less danger of willy-nilly, profit-driven, one-off developments. Then, there is the social factor: many of the new businesses are run by like-minded friends. “Most of them have been in Nana for years,” Pornpas says, including the expats. “They aren’t
here for commercial reasons, but because they like the qualities. That makes it more of a neighborhood.” Nana is evolving beyond just a neighborhood, and into one of the city’s closest-knit communities. “What makes Nana special is the way it is changing. Everywhere else, they come and destroy things. We came here because we love the houses. This is the past life of the place,” Hierro says. “We are all here because we love it, and want to make it special.”
Arts
The name of edgy gallery NACC (fb. com/naccbkk; presently open for events only) is a purposeful play on the National Anti-Corruption Commission, but partner Jeff Gompertz, of New York City, notes that it could also be Nana Arts & Cultural Center. Together with Frenchman François Langella, the two artists run an experimental performance space with projections and multimedia. + Original Nana
gallery Cho Why (17 Soi Nana; fb. com/chowhybkk), hosts shows and events, with no schedule or purpose in mind, beyond artistic endeavors. + Soi Nana Craft+Jumble Trail, organized by Cho Why, is a street celebration held every few months that introduces crowds of new visitors to Nana. + If you think a florist doesn’t belong under “arts,” you haven’t seen the displays by Nana newbie Wallflowers (31-33 Soi Nana; 66-94/661-7997; MondayFriday 10 a.m.-8 p.m.). The colorful creations of Nattaphat Suriyakumphol, who had a small shop of the same name on Sukhumvit Soi 26, are exquisite. He’s expanded with a giant 24-squaremeter icebox of exotic foliage in a tastefully restored shophouse compound, and is already booking lots of photo shoots and events.
Drinks
from far left: Soi Nana Craft+Jumble Trail;event; Trail Pim Ninthummachart, Pim, the owner ofthe Nahim owner of Café; designer Nahim Café; designer bouquets bouquets at Wallflower; at Jeff and Francois Wallflower; Francois of NACC Langella pose (above) for a portrait and Jeffat Gompertz the art space; in their a room performance at El Chiringuito space, NACC; guesthouse; a room at El Cho Chiringuito Why Argentine photographer guesthouse; Argentine photographer Walter Astrada poses with Walter Astrada his Royal during Enfield an exhibition bike andofhis his work “theJourney, work,The journey”,at onCho show Why. at Cho Why
Bangkok DJ and artist Mongkol Sanla created an infectious vibe at beloved Bar 23, which was born on Sukhumvit 23, then moved to a little dive on Sukhumvit Soi 16, and when he opened his 23 Bar & Gallery (92 Soi Nana; 66-80/264-4471; 7 p.m.1 a.m., closed Mondays; drinks for two Bt450) in its latest incarnation in Chinatown, he didn’t bother with details like decoration, focusing instead on instilling the same bedazzling sounds. A proponent of
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/ beyond /n e i g h b o r h o o d
clockwise from above: Pizza at El
Chiringuito; ambidextrous mixology at Teens of Thailand; thirdgeneration food vendors stir fry noodles with soy sauce.
1990s Brit rock, he also ranges back to the 60s-70s. There are art shows upstairs and funky furnishings and graffiti throughout. + Easily the most beautiful bar in Nana, Teens of Thailand (76 Soi Nana; 66-81/4433784; fb.com/teensofthailand; drinks for two Bt800), is a gem of a gin bar with speakeasy atmosphere, complete with piano. Owner Niks Anuman-Rajadhon turned Vice Versa Cocktail (viceversacocktail. com) into the leading local drink catering service, and brings a wealth of mixology to this classy establishment. + While most of Nana is Bohemian-artsy, Tep Bar (69-71 Soi Nana; 66-98/467-2944; closed Mondays, open Tuesday-Thursday
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from 5 p.m. to midnight, and to 1 a.m. Friday to Sunday; drinks for two Bt700) is more of a Thai-hipster gastropub with walls lined by jars of their house-infused yadong, wood tables on two floors and spirited live music played on Thai instruments by bands in traditional costumes.
Eats
Slurp cheap noodles at Lad-na Heng Yod Pak (97-99-101 Soi Nana; rad na noodles for two Bt80) huddled over bright yellow and orange tables offset by green walls. + Order the pincho tortilla (egg and potato pie) and a pitcher of sangria at El Chiringuito (221 Soi Nana; 66-85/ 126-0046; fb.com/elchiringuito bangkok; tapas for two Bt600). T+L TIP El Chiringuito has opened a guesthouse next door where funky rooms (doubles Bt850-Bt1,500) are kitted out with cool antiques, and the location is ideal for when you’ve had
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too many of their dangerous G&Ts, made with Spanish gin and lemonade. + Nahim Café (78 Soi Nana; fb.com/nahimcafe.handncraft; snacks for two Bt400) is a lot like Alice in Wonderland, if Alice were dropped into a Mangaland of tea and ice cream. Stuffed animals fill the shelves, and customers sit on fruitshaped pillows, or on actual swings. Besides a huge menu of snacks like hotdogs and waffles, owner Chalocha “Pim” Ninthummachart offers school items, stickers and other crafts handmade by her staff.
Check In
Nana has only a handful of rooms, but greater Chinatown abounds with options. The splurge is Shanghai Mansion (shanghaimansion.com; doubles from Bt1,955): 76 rooms done up to resemble swinging Shanghai circa 1930s, boasting poster beds and red lanterns.
/ beyond /
coolest
jobs
Hey, Mr. DJ Sometimes great ideas are spun
seemingly by chance, but DJ Matty Wainwright’s big moment of inspiration was sparked by a bribe attempt. His concept for the The DJ Dispensary (djdispensary.com; US$350 per person per day, excluding accommodation) was born after he was offered US$750 by a club patron to play a Macy Gray track. Could Wainwright be bought? Could you place a price tag on his musical integrity? Never. “If I am pacing and building a night musically at a world-class venue, watching the crowd, judging their mood and trying to give them the best experience possible,” Wainwright says, “then I’m definitely not playing Macy Gray.” He likens it to ordering a meal at a Michelin-star restaurant, and washing it down with a Coke: “I like them both, but I wouldn’t have them at the same time.” This was five years ago during a gig at the Yas Viceroy in Abu Dhabi. Back then, he says the clubbing environment was
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commercial and lacked creativity. “So there I was, a six-nights-a-week resident in Abu Dhabi, getting repeated requests each night for three or four top-40 artists. You name it… David Guetta, the Black Eyed Peas and Rihanna,” he says. Most nights, it was a case of someone hounding him to “plug their phone in” and play their choice of tracks, which was often a far cry from his taste. And from this frustration came two realizations: firstly, that most people don’t know anything about DJing, and secondly, that, much like Liam Neeson’s character in Taken, Wainwright had a very particular set of skills, skills he had acquired over a very long career, that could help him educate the masses. Growing up in Liverpool during the 90s, he began spending his allowance on mixtapes when he was 10 years old. He remembers being fascinated by how the tracks melded into each other. “I found a couple of rickety old turntables and
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started buying records every week,” Wainwright says. A couple of decades later and the hobby grew into an obsession. “When you find yourself in the DJ booth with hundreds of eyes and ears on you, it’s hard to describe the exhilaration, the fear and the eventual addiction that comes with playing records for a living,” says Wainwright, who wanted to give people a taste of this rush when he set up DJ Dispensary three years ago. So now, in addition to his fulltime schedule DJing in Bali and across the globe, he shares his love with vacationers who want to spin like pros. Guests can join the DJ Dispensary for two to three days of group and one-onone DJ training along with three nights of hands-on DJ-ing at one of the popular resorts where the retreats are hosted, such as Niyama by Per Aquum (minorhotels.com/en/peraquum/niyama; rooms from US$1,170) in the Maldives: “It’s pretty special, as you teach guests
courtesy of the dj dispensary (3)
Mark Lean talks to a disc jockey who teaches music-lovers across the globe the finer points of spinning a perfect set to find out what it takes to raise the roof.
from left: DJ Matty Wainright shares his skills at Karma Kandara Bali; learning to DJ at Niyama in the Maldives; spinning six meters under the sea at Niyama.
Mixing it up. Here, four of Wainwright’s favorite venues around the region to spin a tune.
six meters below the ocean as sharks swim past,” Wainwright says. Retreats are capped at 10 to 15 people, who break out each morning into groups of a max five per tutor for two-hour hands-on classes with mixers and turntables. Everyone also gets private 90-minute lessons on the decks in the afternoons. If you prefer to host a retreat from the intimacy of your own home, jet or yacht, Wainwright has just launched DJD Privé. A Wainwright education isn’t only about beat-matching, cueing and pitch control; he also covers club culture and its roots, including a screening of Maestro, a film about the musical form’s founding fathers. “The DJ Dispensary teaches guests not only about the craft of performing but also about the history that goes behind the art of DJ-ing,” he explains. Armed with theory and practice, on the final night students DJ a set for a live crowd, which is photographed, recorded and streamed.
The success of these final nights is all about nuance, Wainwright says, and he tells his students to “watch for visual clues. Are people at ease or tapping their feet? Are people straining to talk to each other? Check your volume levels. Most importantly, develop your own style and sound that is like no one else’s.” And of course, you’ve got to be in tune with your venue. If a resort or bar is known for its chilled house tunes, you can’t insist on playing 90s pop and expect a satisfied crowd. Wainwright helps his students find that balance. “We are able to meet half way,” he says, “so that both the guest and the venue are happy.” After a long day learning the ropes at the retreat, everybody gathers for sundowners while Wainwright spins— and his clear love of the craft is part of the lesson. “You know you’ve played a good sunset set when the hairs on your arms stand up,” he says. “It’s an absolutely beautiful feeling.”
+ We are based out of Bali so we are extremely lucky to DJ at Potato Head (ptthead.com). The Sun Down Circle events held here have been phenomenal. Featured artists include Gilles Peterson, Mr Scruff, Trus’Me, Roy Ayers, Tim Sweeney, Osunlade and King Britt. + Take a 30-minute boat trip from Bali to Nusa Lembongan and check into Batu Karang Lembongan Resort & Day Spa (batukaranglembongan. com) perched on the rocks overlooking the sea. The resort’s bar, The Deck, is set on the boardwalk running alongside the coastline. It’s the best place to get a glimpse of the volcanoes on nearby Bali as the sun slips from view. + One of New Delhi’s best underground venues Social Offline (socialoffline.in), is located in the creative Hauz Khas Village. The venue has an edgy music policy with regular live music performances as well as sets by international DJs, plus an exceptional playlist of some of the best radio shows on the planet. + The Observatory (fb.com/ theobservatoryhcmc) in Saigon hosts first-class international DJs every weekend. It’s dedicated to underground techno, house and disco music offering a more alternative sound to the city.
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Capital Gains
Since Burma decided to move its capital to an empty green field more than a decade ago, the custom-built city has been a punch line. But the pace is picking up and Naypyitaw may have the last laugh. By Joe Cummings The 16 -l ane avenues of
FROM TOP: A keyhole
view of Naypyitaw; a sunny room at the Kempinski, one of the “big three” hotels in Burma’s capital.
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Naypyitaw, the 10-year-old capital that western writers have described as a ghost town or super-sized slice of the post-apocalypse, are designed to make a grand statement. Though with the paltry drizzle of cars flowing down the largely empty lanes, the statement falls flat. While the critics have a point—you could play a full game of ultimate Frisbee between the guardrails without interruption—they leave out the most pertinent detail: it is awesome. The tollways are shiny new, completed just four years
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after the controversial 2005 capital changeover, and it takes only three hours to reach Naypyitaw from trafficchoked Rangoon. And while it will require decades of tourism growth to fill the ridiculously extensive roadways, the city itself is buzzing with a bevvy of new hotels and restaurants. If you’re visiting after an absence of a year or two, you might be surprised by the changes. Naypyitaw is no longer the tumbleweed town critics once painted. So let’s get to debunking all the dated myths about Burma’s squeaky new capital.
Myth: Ghost town. Reality: Virtually any time of day or night, people are zipping through the city in cars, buses and trucks, on bicycles and motorcycles, filling the township with a lively hum. Thousands of government servants are here, working in offices and sleeping in new multistory residential complexes that, from the outside at least, appear to be more inhabitable than their crumbling counterparts in Rangoon. Even Aung San Suu Kyi, the government’s most legendary new member, began renting a house here immediately after winning her historic seat in Parliament last year, during Burma’s first free elections in half a century. Myth: Nowhere to stay. Reality: There are now more than 50 hotels operating in Naypyitaw, but what locals call “the big three,”— Kempinski, Lake Garden MGallery Collection and the Hilton—have dominated since
fr o m t o p : D u s t i n M a i n ; c o u r t e s y o f k e m p i n s k i n ay p y i taw
Myth: Middle of nowhere. Reality: The city is, in many ways, a huge suburb of Pyinmana, a historic town of leafy lanes and charming teak and brick architecture. When the former military government moved the capital from Rangoon, there was speculation that they were just following an astrologer’s advice, but in fact Pyinmana is geographically and strategically much better located—it’s halfway between Rangoon and Mandalay, and just 95 kilometers northwest of where the politically troublesome Kayin, Kayah and Shan states intersect—than Rangoon, which the British empire favored solely for the convenience of naval trade. Today the town’s diverse population supports three mosques as well as St. Michael’s Catholic Church, a small brick edifice near the coco-fringed Ngalait River.
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they all opened in 2014. The design of the Kempinski Nay Pyi Taw (kempinski.com; doubles from K189,131) is accented with wood carved in classic Bamar style, linked by elegant roofed walkways inspired by Bagan’s Ananda Phaya to shield guests from the hot plains sun. Stay in the quiet Bagan Wing, which is close to the hotel’s large clover-shaped pool. + Check into The Lake Garden Nay Pyi Taw MGallery Collection (mgallery.com; doubles from US$70) for well-appointed rooms and suites. Each has a wood-shuttered veranda furnished with a day bed and a rocking chair, an ace spot for relaxing in fresh air while maintaining privacy. Another bonus: the restaurants on site are some of the city’s best. At the Italian restaurant Primo, you will be surprised to enjoy tomato carpaccio with poached egg and pesto, or homemade ravioli with truffle and parsley so far from Florence. Adjacent, The Oak Room is the best-stocked hotel bar in the capital. + The Hilton Nay Pyi Taw (hilton. com; doubles from K119,370), whose cavernous lobby competes with MGallery’s for pure Bamar bombast, by contrast offers rooms with a contemporary international feel.
Myth: Nowhere to eat. Reality: To feed the influx of new arrivals, there has been a boom in the restaurant scene in the past three years. Bustling Thabyegone Market is today flanked by a cluster of busy restaurants and cafés serving Bamar, Shan, Chinese and Thai cuisines. + At Maw Khan Nong 2 (95-94/00432948; meal for two US$5), take a seat alongside government workers on the outdoor terrace to enjoy bowls of savory Shan noodles washed down with cold draft beer. + A branch of YKKO (ykko.com. mm; meal for two K8,200), Rangoon’s famed kyay oh (Burmese hot pot) emporium, is close by if you crave a bowl of noodles. + Or for a broad spectrum menu, Santino Café (10 Thabyegone Market) is a bakery and restaurant serving European, American, Bamar, Chinese, Thai and Japanese dishes. + For ambience, head slightly out of town towards Pyinmana to the large openair pavilion housing Shwe Si Taw Myanmar Buffet (95-67/ 432-770; meal for two US$12). No matter how many people are at your table, the waiters will serve more than 20 dishes to sample, from tangy tea-leaf salads and fiery chili pastes to rich bean soups and chicken curry. T+L Tip: The restaurants are all closely
bundled because when planners were building the city from grassland they decided to break the town into different zones for shopping and dining, hotels, residential areas, recreation and military use. So while it can be nice to have all your dining options lined up, you may have to drive 30 minutes every time you want to move between where you stay, where you work and where you shop or dine. Myth: Nothing to do. Reality: Sightseeing options abound with outings to appease everyone from nature-lovers to history buffs to travelers just looking for a little bling. The 100-hectare Naypyitaw Zoological Gardens (95-925/608-7123; entry US$10) and its neighboring 120-hectare Naypyitaw Safari Park (entry US$10), are home to 300 animal species including white tigers and penguins. + The Uppatasanti Pagoda (free entry) was commissioned by General Than Shwe, head of state from 1992 to 2011, as a near-replica of Rangoon’s Shwedagon Pagoda, and the 100-meter-tall stupa is worth a gander, filled with carved reliefs depicting scenes from the Gautama Buddha’s former lives, along with four jade Buddha images sitting on
FROM top: Uppatasanti Pagoda is filled with carvings and four jade Buddhas; prayer beads at a local shop; plates aplenty at Shwe Si Taw Myanmar Buffet.
golden thrones facing the cardinal directions. + More recent history stands tall on the banks of Pyinmana’s Shan Lake, where a bronze statue of General Aung San, the father of Burmese independence (and father of “The Lady”) who led resistance forces against the British empire from Pyinmana, looks out over the placid waters. + Check out the Gems Museum (95-925/252-6830; entry US$5) for sparkly souvenirs; precious stones from Burma are known for their high quality, and the overall selection here is as good as you’ll find anywhere in the country.
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Back to Nature
Breakfast on the Duoro River with Fly Camp.
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J o ã o R o m b a / c o u r t e s y o f m i l e s away
Throughout Europe, a tourism experiment is returning lands once occupied by humans to their undomesticated state. Darrell Hartman wanders the hills and valleys of eastern Portugal, where the first “rewilding” camps just opened.
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As the 4 x 4 bounced along a rutted
dirt track, I gazed through swirling dust at an untamed landscape: cork trees, parched chaparral bushes, outcrops of golden rock. Fernando Romão, our guide and driver, pointed out short-toed eagles wheeling overhead as the vehicle lurched up a dry trough, engine roaring. In the front passenger seat, Simon Collier, a former safari guide from South Africa, wore a broad grin. “This is what Land Rovers are made for!” We were in eastern Portugal’s Côa Valley, a four-hour drive from Lisbon. It had taken only an hour to get from the medieval fortress town of Castelo Rodrigo, where I’d spent the morning, to the heart of the 890-hectare Faia Brava Nature Reserve. Having reached higher ground, we parked and strode across dirt strewn with bones: a feeding spot for vultures. On the periphery stood a small, camouflaged observation shelter. I spent a sweltering hour inside watching dozens of the scavengers circle, their two-meter wingspans silhouetted against the powder-blue sky. I was still under the spell of their slow, corkscrew loops when, a little
later, we came upon a group of wild Maronesa cattle. A massive bull, black as night, paused to glower at us before thrashing away into thorny underbrush. These undomesticated bovines couldn’t have been more different from the tranquil animals I grew up around in New England. Later, on our way back to the safaristyle tented camp where I was sleeping that night, we stopped to observe a herd of wild horses— unfenced, unfriendly, evidently belonging to no one—grazing in the late afternoon sun. I didn’t see another visitor in the park all day. When we think about the world’s wild places, our minds typically turn to the South American rain forest or the savannas of Africa; we don’t usually picture Europe. Faia Brava, which was established as a nature reserve in 2000, was working farmland for centuries, but a consortium of environmental activists believes it can become truly wild again. It is a laboratory for “rewilding,” an environmental philosophy that has gained traction in Europe over the past decade. Proponents believe that lands abandoned by humans because of Quinto Do Bom Retiro in Douro Valley.
Learn about ancient art at Côa Musuem.
shifts in population or agricultural practice should be returned to their natural, undomesticated state. George Monbiot, the British author of Feral, a manifesto on the subject, has argued for the reintroduction of vanished species to their former habitats across the continent. He often refers to the wolves of Yellowstone, which have restored ecological balance since being brought back to the American park in the 1990s. Iberian wolves, which have been spotted in the vicinity of Faia Brava, may soon become a regular part of life here, too. Even those who like the idea of rewilding—and many do not—are skeptical about its economic sustainability. This, says Collier, is where tourism comes in. He’s the wildlife tourism manager of Rewilding Europe, a Netherlandsbased nonprofit that manages restoration projects across the continent, while also financing and marketing wilderness lodges connected to those efforts. Its current ventures include reintroducing red deer and bison in Croatia’s Velebit Mountains and building a mobilecamp facility in Italy’s central Apennines, the last holdout of the brown bears that once prowled the outskirts of ancient Rome. Earning local support isn’t easy. Rewilding Europe’s conservation goals sometimes conflict with the hunting and animal husbandry traditions of nearby communities. But Collier believes that rewilding can also create opportunities for inns and tour companies. “Rather than just buying up land,” he told me, “we want to create entrepreneurs.” If the
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The Wilds of Europe
Five more destinations for animal viewing on the Continent. Arca Floating Hotel, Danube Delta, Romania
This three-story riverboat traverses the world’s largest wetland reed beds, where golden jackals, European minxes and millions of birds all live. hotelplutitorarca.com; packages from Lei650.
Kolarbyn Ecolodge, Bergslagen Forest, Sweden Tours of northern
Linden Tree Retreat & Ranch, Velebit Mountains, Croatia Head to this 20-hectare sanctuary for bears, wild horses and Balkan chamois. lindenretreat.com; rooms from €54.
Villa Quintiliani Hotel, Central Apennines, Italy Steps from this
converted mansion is Wildlife Adventures (wildlifeadventures. it), which offers trips into the forest to see Marsican brown bears. villinoquintiliani.it; rooms from €115.
Wild Farm, Rhodope Mountains, Bulgaria
More than 150 bird species, including golden eagles and peregrine falcons, can be seen at this working farm near the Greek border. bedand birding-rhodopes.bg; rooms from €20.
An ibex etching at Penascosa Rock Art Site.
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Sleep in tents under the night sky at Star Camp.
model is a success, semi-forgotten regions across Europe could become tourist destinations. L ast summer, a pair of tented camps opened in the Côa Valley, giving the rewilding movement its first tourism test case. Star Camp, where I spent my first two nights, is currently the only lodging option inside Faia Brava. Run by Sara Noro, who also operates a bed-and-breakfast in the nearby village of Quintã de Pêro Martins, it’s a permanent compound of three canvas tents, each with running water, a composting toilet and a king-size bed. Plenty of work remains to be done: Collier would like to see a once-abandoned stone shed, which the camp has been using as a minimal kitchen, transformed into a comfortable check-in area. But one thing that is already perfect is the location. From my tent, the views of the reserve’s steep granite cliffs were staggering. On my first evening, I watched the setting sun bathe them in an ethereal pink light, as a steady breeze sharpened the refreshing effect of my gin and tonic. The next day I drove south to meet a young naturalist named Filipe Martins. The hills, ribbed with centuries-old crop terraces, were a
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reminder that the Côa Valley has been inhabited for more than 20,000 years. My GPS was useless in its compact stone villages, and my rental Peugeot barely squeezed through the narrow cobblestoned streets. A white-haired matron hung laundry; older men sat chatting idly. It felt as if little had changed in the past few centuries—other than the disappearance of many residents. Martins and I strolled a sixkilometer segment of the Grand Route, a 200-kilometer walking trail and wildlife corridor that opened in 2014. “In America, one finds wilderness,” he explained as we tramped past short Pyrenees oaks and clumps of Spanish broom. “In Europe, though, there are basically no places that can be considered pristine.” As we followed the Côa River, we passed disused irrigation canals that ran from decrepit water mills. Nearby, pumpkin patches were still being neatly maintained. Later that evening, after a long drive on unpaved switchbacks, I found myself enjoying an aperitif of white port with tonic, goat cheese and garlicky alheira sausage on the terrace at Quinta de Ervamoira, a vineyard in the rugged region of Trás-os-Montes. My hosts were João
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Hälsingland province, where wolves, bears and wolverines roam, start at this primitive hotel. wildsweden.com; packages from Kr5,950.
A tour of Côa Valley Archaeological Park.
Luis Baptista and Mafalda Nicolau de Almeida. Both work in the region’s wine-making business, and together they run Miles Away, a travel company specializing in food and drink. Last summer, they launched Fly Camp, a mobile-lodging outfitter that offers wildlife adventures in the Côa Valley. With us was Mário Reis, an excitable archaeologist who works in the nearby Côa Valley Archaeological Park. After a dinner of creamy cod casserole, he drove me there to see the Paleolithic rock art that serves as a record of what this region was like in prehistoric times. The faint etchings were best seen after dark, he said. When we arrived, he trained a spotlight on a mitten-shaped slab of rock. I could make out an aurochs, an extinct ancestor of the cow. There was a horse, too, rendered with its head turning back, as if it were evading pursuit. “The main part of the artistic culture of this period was depicting animals,” Reis said. “And remember, these are wild animals.” at Fly Camp with Collier and Nuno Curado, a mellow, ponytailed wildlife expert who told me about the long-absent species that have reappeared lately in
I spent the nex t night
Portugal. Iberian ibex, reintroduced in Spain in the late 1990s, have begun migrating across the border. The panicked bull I saw is being used by the Tauros Programme, an eightyear-old Dutch initiative, to breed an aurochs-like cow. Sightings of Spanish imperial eagles and roe deer are on the rise. Then there are the Iberian wolves, whose comeback has delighted conservationists but dismayed residents. The next morning Curado roused Collier and me at 4 a.m. to drive east, across the Spanish border, where we hoped to see a wolf. Our guide, José Luís Santiago, led us up a slope of pine forest, pointing out a fresh paw print along the way. We spent an hour
watching deer graze near a group of beehives—farmers use this land, too. Forest lay just beyond, and down below sat a cluster of stone houses. We never did see a wolf, but the scenery made it hard to complain. On the drive back to Portugal, I asked Collier if the arrival of wolves would require fences to be built around Star Camp. “The day we see wolves, it’ll be more of a reason to celebrate than a point of concern,” he said. He paused, then added that there’s more to rewilding than wildlife. “Whether it’s your surroundings or what you choose to eat and drink,” he said, “it’s about adding a dose of rawness and reality to your life.”
the details getting there The Côa Valley is a four-hour drive from Lisbon or Madrid. Rent a car at the airport. Cell and GPS service are spotty, so bring printed directions. tour oper ator Miles Away Choose from activities like dining at Quinta de Ervamoira Vineyard, tours of Côa Valley Archaeological Park, and nights at Fly Camp, a mobile lodge with bases in Faia Brava Nature Reserve and other scenic locations. milesawaydouroandcoa.com. accommodations Casa da Cisterna This 11-room B&B in the fortified
medieval town of Castelo Rodrigo is a comfortable alternative to the region’s camps. casadacisterna.com; doubles from €70. Star Camp Three platform tents in Faia Brava Nature Reserve offer uninterrupted mountain views; pull back the canvas to sleep under the night sky. starc amp-portugal. com; from €105. activities Côa Valley Archaeological Park Fundação Côa Parque offers both day- and nighttime walking tours (from €10) to rock-art sites. Depart from the ultramodern Côa Museum. arte-coa.pt.
Grande Rota Hike this 200-kilometer walking trail along the Côa River in late spring and early fall for the best weather. Take a fourhour hike with Rotas e Raizes (€115). granderotadocoa.pt. Iberian Wolf Watching Just across the border in Spain, local expert José Luis Santiago offers three-hour guided tours for €20, binoculars and telescope included. twobirdsonestone. es; overnight trips from €78. Quinta de Ervamoira The 150-hectare vineyard and winery is appointment-only and tricky to drive to, so it is easiest to book through Miles Away. ramospinto.pt.
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Happily Adrift
For some people, taking a cruise is about what you see when you’re off the boat. But not for Stephen Drucker, whose voyage across the Atlantic taught him the beauty of being all at sea.
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of 24 summer days aboard the Seabourn Quest was the raw Arctic scenery of the “Route of the Vikings,” a 10,315-kilometer crossing from Copenhagen to Montreal via Iceland and Greenland. Sailing past icebergs and pods of whales would be thrilling, though not nearly as thrilling, to me, as the bigger, unwritten promise of spending nearly a month at sea. These days, cruises are sold either for their jam-packed itineraries or
The stated promise
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their over-the-top amenities—as if being at sea were a constant struggle against boredom. Not everybody who gets on a ship, however, sees it this way. Cruising was once the definition of leisure. Years ago, trips like a winter sailing to South America from New York aboard one of the great Moore-McCormack liners, or an around-the-world voyage on Cunard’s iconic Caronia, were lazy, aimless affairs. My idea of a cruise was formed by the character >>
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Seabourn Quest cruising the fjords of Prince Christian Sound, in Greenland.
of Charlotte Vale in the Bette Davis classic Now, Voyager: you go up the gangway a dainty dandelion and, after a few months of sea air, come down it an orchid. I still believe in the curative powers of the ocean’s changing colors, a big sky full of stars, true quiet and darkness, and the rock-abye motion of waves. For me, here was the right itinerary on the right ship, combining eight full days at sea with a string of mostly minor ports. I’d never even heard of Arendal, Norway; Tórshavn, in the Faroe Islands; Sisimiut and Qaqortoq, in Greenland; or Bonne Bay, Newfoundland. There would be little reason to rush off on the next shore excursion. Provincial church, vista point, fish market—who really needs to see another? I’d rather be that steadfast passenger who, while everybody else runs for the gangway, stays put, goes to lunch and orders a bottle of wine. You wouldn’t last trying this on just any ship, and Seabourn, more than most cruise lines, is tuned to the seasoned marathon cruiser. Too much high-voltage fantasy would exhaust anybody beyond a week. Too much heavy-handed luxury is not easy to endure either; it quickly turns cloying. On Seabourn Quest, the meaning of luxury leaned less toward a parade of 50 flaming baked Alaskas and more toward a shot of
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Irish whiskey in my hot chocolate. (That never wore thin.) With just 430 passengers on board, the atmosphere was quiet. The Italian-built ship felt like a yacht outfitted by Bottega Veneta. My suite, No. 614, was deeply calming, with blond wood and leather furnishings, a balcony, a marble bathroom, and a walk-in closet big enough to absorb the three seasons of clothing this itinerary required, from linen shirts to a puffy Uniqlo vest. My cabin very quickly became all the world I needed. Some days I never left. When I was drawn out, it was usually by the soothing, periodic announcements of our South African cruise director, Handré Potgieter, about some impending caviar party. Or to hear “My One and Only Love” sung by Elise to Dmitri’s jazz piano in the bar before dinner. Or to try Seabourn’s new kayak-and-Zodiacbased shore excursion program, Ventures, with its attractive young team ever ready with some new fact about the habits of Arctic puffins. I forced myself to stop Instagramming the unchanging, unexpectedly calm Atlantic to attend at least a few of the 45 lectures about the challenges of
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Vividly painted houses add color to Qaqortoq, Greenland. Below: Robin West, a Ventures leader, shows off a section of ice. opposite, from top: Seabourn passengers approach an ice floe on a Zodiac excursion off the coast of Ilulissat, Greenland; a snack stand’s sign in Arendal, Norway.
Viking life or the politics of the Faroe Islands. There I was in a dim lounge at 2:30 on a Tuesday afternoon, listening with sincere interest as a professor in a bad Harris Tweed jacket said, “By 850 there was a parliament established in Tórshavn.” I saw someone write that down. On a ship, anybody can meet anybody. Slip in line behind your object of fascination while waiting for a plate of freshly sliced jamón ibérico and you’re in play. I spent the entire first week looking my fellow cruisers over, studying the passenger list and inventing outlandish stories about people based on absolutely nothing—former model, third wife, diabolical oligarch. I identified the passengers I was determined to meet. In a lifetime of Manhattan dinner parties, I’ve never sat next to a Boeing 747 pilot, a grande dame from Johannesburg, a Memphis couple who fly around the world chasing the Rolling Stones, tax refugees from Monaco, people who assumed I was a Republican, people who didn’t assume I was gay, or the widow of the Swedish Fish candy magnate. “Doze feesh ah de reason I am on dees ship,” she told me.
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F R O M TOP : M ATT DOLAN ; STEPHEN D R UCKE R
By week two, the break with reality was complete. It was a new me, earnestly identifying seabirds. The first week’s overenthusiastic eating was dialed back; I no longer felt the need to order a soufflé at every meal. A shipboard routine was established, whereby the crew knew what I was going to do before I did. I took note of other passengers’ patterns, too, because by then I’d identified the people I wanted to avoid (and there are always a few of those). Weeks two and three were spent in the far reaches of Iceland and Greenland, and offered the added excitement of many sights that cannot be scheduled, like calving glaciers. One night at 1 a.m. our captain stunned us out of sleep with a ship-wide announcement. A few people misunderstood and thought the ship was going down, but he was simply urging us to go on deck for a rare show of the northern lights, dancing pink and green across a crystal-clear sky. Ominous floodlights scanned the black water through the night as we approached Ilulissat, Greenland, about 320 kilometers north of the
Arctic Circle, where one of the world’s most active glaciers steadily pushes icebergs into the North Atlantic. (The Titanic was very likely sunk by an iceberg from this infamous glacier.) When the sun came up, 10 of us sped around the ice-choked fjords in a Zodiac for two hours, bundled up against the spray and the just-abovefreezing air. We dodged avalanches from 10-story icebergs, watched smaller icebergs shift and roll, and passed around a so-called growler, a small chunk of ice so clear it looked like a diamond and so dense it could damage a ship.
I’d have made the whole trip for this one pure, perfect outing. Just as I was thinking, My mind is as clear as it has ever been, a phone rang in a backpack. “I can’t believe it, my phone hasn’t rung in two weeks!” a deep Southern accent announced. It continued to ring while my fellow passenger checked the screen. “Honey, it’s Chrissy in San Antonio!” she bellowed at her husband, as if he hadn’t been sitting next to her in a rubber raft. She took the call and we all had a nice catch-up with Chrissy. For the rest of the cruise, I glared at this woman every time I saw her. On night 23, my cabin steward laid a brown vinyl sheet over the duvet on my bed, the signal it was time to get out my luggage. It came as a shock. Potgieter explained to me that any voyage this long has one essential distinction: “On a one- or two-week cruise you are thinking, ‘Only x days left,’ from the moment you board the ship. On a long cruise there is no countdown. You never think about the end. Until the end.” seabourn.com; route of the Vikings sailings from US$21,499 per person in 2016, all-inclusive.
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Britain in a Bottle
An unlikely wine culture has emerged in the south of England, where a new class of vintners is giving French bubbly a run for its money. by natasha stokes . Photogr aphED by Tar a darby
clockwise from top: Vines from
Ridgeview Wine Estate, in Sussex; barrels in the storage room at Gusbourne, in Kent; Sissinghurst Castle Garden Farmhouse, a bed-and-breakfast near Kent’s Chapel Down Winery.
In Engl and, artisAnal food and drink have become almost commonplace. From rare-breed meats to regional cheese and cider, visitors have had access to the fruits of high quality, local production for years. But they probably couldn’t define the country’s terroir. Now that’s changing, as English sparkling wines begin to catch the eye of wine critics and enthusiasts around the globe.
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England’s first modern vineyards were established in the 1950s. Battling the damp, cloudy climate, winemakers struggled to produce anything that measured up to vintages from sunnier southern Europe. Then, in the 1980s and 90s, a group of enterprising wineries discovered that the low sugar and high acidity of grapes grown in England’s cool weather were ideal for sparkling wine. This, coupled with a few warm summers and a small but significant one-degree hike in average temperatures over the past few decades, has led to a wine-making boom, with sparkling wine comprising two-thirds of total production last year. Fans of the country’s fizz include the Queen, and English varietals have recently risen to beat out classic French champagnes for several international awards. Some oenophiles believe that English bubbly is even better than champagne (and it can be just as expensive)—all the more reason to check out some of the finest producers in three southern counties.
Kent
Hops gardens and cider orchards define this bucolic region, which is also home to some of
the country’s best wineries. Near the oldfashioned town of Tenterden, England’s biggest producer, Chapel Down (chapeldown. com), offers 22-person vineyard tours (often sold out on weekends, so book in advance or, better still, go midweek). Afterward, there’s a 40-minute tasting of six or seven of its top wines, like the Three Graces, a sparkling wine done in the champagne style with lemon and berry notes. Guests can also try wines by the glass or order a six-glass flight at Chapel Down’s restaurant, the Swan, which serves locally sourced dishes like heritage-carrot pie and Kent cod. In the nearby village of Appledore, Gusbourne (gusbourne.com), which opened in 2004, is still a relative newcomer. You must call ahead to book a tour, but it’s worth the effort for a stroll on the Saxon Shore Way, a footpath that winds through the vineyard and along the historic Kent coastline, followed by tastings on a tree-shaded hillside deck. Standouts include the Brut Reserve 2010, a classic sparkling blend, and Gusbourne’s flagship wine, the Blanc de Blancs, a golden Chardonnay fizz with citrus notes and a delicate hazelnut aftertaste. Its 2007 vintage was served to heads of state at the 2012 London Olympics.
Sussex
Dozens of artisanal producers—from cheesemongers like High Weald Dairy to gin distilleries like Blackdown Artisan Spirits— make the area in and around South Downs National Park a locavore’s haven. When it opened, in 1995, Ridgeview Wine Estate (ridgeview.co.uk) was one of the first English vineyards to plant the three grapes used in traditional champagne production (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier), which winemaker Simon Roberts still uses exclusively to make sparkling wine. His commitment has led to numerous awards, as well as support from the Queen, who served the Bloomsbury 2009 during her Diamond Jubilee, in 2012. Ridgeview’s small, family-run operation belies its prolific output: 250,000 bottles of year, a number that’s set to double by 2020. “The growth in English wine is astonishing. It’s an exciting market to be a part of,” says business development manager, Tom Surgey. Besides having a beautifully minimalist tasting room that overlooks swaths of national parkland, the estate also supplies local restaurants like the Bull, a
From top:
Gusbourne’s outdoor tasting area; the dining room at the Swan, the restaurant at Chapel Down; ridgeview’s Tom Surgey samples a sparkling wine.
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Breaky Bottom, a vineyard in the South Downs valley of Sussex.
gastropub in nearby Ditchling. Try the Fitzrovia Rosé, a Chardonnay-based blend with raspberry and red currant notes. For a more intimate take on English wine making, organize a tour at Breaky Bottom (breakybottom.co.uk), a 2.5-hectare vineyard nestled in a valley in the South Downs, where sweeping pastures are dotted with grazing sheep. The winery is housed in a 19th-century flint barn, across a courtyard from the wood-beamed farmhouse where ownerwinemaker Peter Hall lives. Hall planted his vines in 1974 and still leads estate tours, which are filled with both wine-making anecdotes and family stories. Don’t miss the Cuvée Koizumi Yakumo 2010, a sparkling Seyval Blanc brut named for Hall’s great-great-uncle, the writer Lafcadio Hearn, who emigrated to Japan and assumed a new name.
Cornwall
With its mix of rugged coastline, Michelinstarred restaurants and artist-filled villages, Cornwall is one of the country’s most sophisticated rural regions. It’s where you’ll
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find Camel Valley (camelvalley.com), set along the serene banks of the Camel River. The vineyard has two picturesque stone cottages for guests, who can fish for trout, cycle to the nearby town of Bodmin, or trek the 35-kilometer-long Camel Trail. If you can’t stay overnight, you can still book a one-hour tour to take in the vineyard’s 24,000 vines, some of which are pruned each year by winemaker Sam Lindo’s 61-year-old mother, Annie. While the bulk of Camel Valley’s awards have gone to its sparking wines, the star of the vineyard is the Darnibole Bacchus, whose 2014 vintage is an elegant still white with a burst of elderflower. Lindo has secured protected status for this wine, which can only be produced on a particular patch of Camel Valley land— potentially paving the way for other unique English varietals, in line with France’s Burgundies or Italy’s Chiantis. “Grapes here have a more vibrant acidity, which helps to elevate the delicate flavor,” Lindo says. “We aren’t trying to make champagne. What we do here in England is unique.”
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Family Special
From the not-so-universal language of peekaboo to our top spots to take the tots, this year’s guide to traveling with the brood is packed with fun for everyone.
© H e r o Im a g e s / c o r b i s
Illustr ations by Autchara Panphai
Family fun on the beach.
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Play time at Bollywood Veggies.
Fun on the Farm
Singapore may not be known as an agricultural haven, but its suburb of Kranji houses a cluster of farms that offers a bundle of fun for the little ones. By Melanie Lee. Photogr aphs by Darren Soh
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My son, Christian, has been bugging me to bring him to farms “just like my storybooks.” Amazingly enough, after some queries with my resourceful mommy network, I discover that a few farms in Kranji (kranjicountryside.com), in Singapore’s northwest corner, do cater to rambunctious toddlers. We pack our hats, sunscreen and water one weekend to channel our inner Old MacDonalds.
of vegetables and pellets to feed catfish, frogs, parrots, rabbits, guinea pigs and goats. With staff supervision, Christian even perches a parrot on his forefinger and learns that “birds need to cut their nails.” farmart.com.sg; free admission Jurong Frog Farm. “I’m so brave catching frogs and tadpoles!” This ends up being my son’s favorite farm because it is “so slimy and the Feeding the goats at Farmart Centre.
would get at any Chinese restaurant). jurong frog farm. com.sg; free admission.
Peek-a-huh? Parents around the world play peekaboo to delight their toddlers and, while the pastime may be universal, each country has its own vernacular for the game.
Ja-aei Bollywood Veggies. “I feel like a real farmer!” The four-hectare farm raises vegetables and fruits free from fertilizers, pesticides and growth hormones. That matters little to Christian, who is more taken with zipping through the rows of plants, chasing birds around the lotus pond and traipsing around the children’s garden just outside its restaurant, Poison Ivy. There’s a tree house and a retired miniature tractor there, which means we parents get to indulge in the farm’s signature banana curry (from their homegrown organic bananas) in peace. bollywoodveggies.com; free entry for kids, S$2 per adult. Farmart Centre. “I want to feed animals forever!” The equivalent of a village town center, here you’ll find a sprinkling of shops and stalls selling Kranji farm produce. However, it is the animal corner that will get the kids in a euphoric state. For S$5, you are given a small basket
frogs jump so high.” We meet Uncle William, a quail farmer who is good friends with the frog farmers, who spontaneously grabs tadpoles and frogs at various life stages for Christian to coo over. There are thousands of American bullfrogs housed in this farm and their resonant cacophony of croaking leaves him transfixed for a few minutes. He’s also fascinated with the deep-fried frog meat sold at their Royal Frog Shop that smells like chicken nuggets, and why mommy seems so delighted slurping up chilled hashima (the Chinese delicacy of frog fallopian tubes, much cheaper and fresher than what you
tha i
Jurong Frog Farm.
Hay Dairies. “This place smells funny.” This is Singapore’s only goat farm that supplies fresh goat
Hay Dairies.
milk locally. Christian is joined by his two best buddies for this visit. They take a while to warm up as the earthy livestock scent of the place initially puts them off, but they are soon distracted by the goats getting milked and having a chance to pet the kids. After running up and down the pens housing more than 1,000 goats of various breeds, the boys are rewarded with bottles of chocolate goat milk, free of antibiotics and preservatives. His two friends gobble up two bottles each, but Christian stops after a few sips and says the milk tastes like grass. haydairies.com.sg; free admission. Getting Around Rent a car for a day trip around Kranji countryside (Avis offers hourly rentals from S$44; avis. com.sg). Or hop on the Kranji Countryside Express shuttle bus (kranjicountry.com; S$3 per adult, S$1 per child) from Kranji MRT station; just note it does not stop at all the farms. Go Now Visit this rustic side of Singapore while it’s still possible; a huge chunk of Kranji countryside has been earmarked to become military training grounds, so many farms will be gone by 2017.
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Elephant rides at Bali Safari and Marine Park.
Beach Safari
From rice terraces, to cheeky monkeys, to sandy shores, Bali has adventures in store for any type of family vacation you can dream up. Here, four experiences that should top your list.
Uh-wah
By Jacqueline De Segonzac Arce
Safari. For close encounters with 60 different species of wildlife, plan a trip to the Bali Safari & Marine Park (balisafarimarinepark.com; entry US$55 for adults). The park has tons to tire out your little explorers: animals, more animals, elephant rides, cultural dances and even a water park. The Tsavo Lion restaurant lets you dine in the middle of a lions’ den, with towering windows looking out at the giant cats lounging in their enclosure. When they flash their bright feline eyes in your direction, you may end up wondering which of you is sitting down to lunch. Sport. Bali Barat National Park (day-pass Rp40,000 per
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person), a scenic four-hour drive from Denpasar, has all the ingredients for a family-adventure success. Kayak, hike, snorkel, dive and explore to your heart’s content in this wilderness set in the northwest of the island. Stay at The Menjangan (themenjangan.com; doubles from Rp2,209,090), located inside the 190-squarekilometer park, with rooms nestled in the forest or perched on the beachside, so you can squeeze every possible second into enjoying the haven of flora, fauna and underwater wonders. Sand. There are plenty of loungeworthy strips of coast in Bali, each with its own vibe. Head to Seminyak for a lively beach-town feel, surfing and
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V ietna mese
the most beautiful sunset you’ve ever laid eyes on, best enjoyed in 360-degree splendor from the rooftop at the Double-Six Hotel (doublesixrooftop.com; cocktails and tapas for two Rp1,080,000), with a delicious sundowner in hand. If you’re looking for a quieter beach, check out Sanur with its lovely long boardwalk along the sand, perfect for bike rides and evening strolls. Shorefront Maya Sanur (mayaresorts.com; doubles from Rp6,260,294) is a stunner with three elegant swimming pools to choose from, including a 158-meter lagoon pool for your Marco Polo-playing pleasure. Scenery and Simians. Bribe your kids into waiting while you shop the many narrow streets of boutiques in Bali’s cultural heart of Ubud with the promise of a trip to see the simians at Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary (monkeyforest ubud.com; admission Rp40,000 per adult, Rp30,000 per child). But beware, the hundreds of long-tailed macaques can be mischievous and aren’t above snatching the snacks out of your hands (they are particular fond of, you guessed it, bananas). Spend the night at the recently opened Padma Ubud (padmaresortubud.com; Family Premiere rooms from US$569), set on 11 hectares of lolling rice paddies overlooking a bamboo forest and a misty river valley, to soak in the serenity.
One of three pools at Maya Sanur.
fr o m t o p : c o u r t e s y o f B a l i S a fa r i & M a r i n e Pa r k ; c o u r t e s y o f m aya s a n u r
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Toddlers are not the coolest travel companions, usually. They don’t like any mode of transportation that requires sitting still. They aren’t into history, or culture or local customs. Getting a preschooler to enjoy a trip is basically an act of magic— but there is perhaps no better stage than Bagan. Here, three reasons the central Burmese town will cast its quiet spell over your whole family. convenience. After your flight, your travelweary kids are but a 10-minute drive away from Old Bagan, where there are hotel options aplenty. On a recent trip, I stayed at Tharabar Gate (tharabargate. com; rooms from US$170), with my one-year-old in tow. The room was spacious and kid-friendly. The best part? The room was only 30 meters from the restaurant, within our video-baby-monitor
Ballooning over the stupas of Bagan.
Bewitching Bagan
This ancient Burmese capital known for its archaeology and quiet charm has plenty of tricks up its sleeve to keep the kids entertained. By Merritt Gurle y
fr o m t o p : c o u r t e s y o f B a c k ya r d Tr av e l ; a n a c a r o l i n e d e l i m a
Burmese boy.
range, so after the little one fell asleep we sat at a table by the pool and enjoyed dinner and wine, while still being (semi-) responsible parents. seclusion. Most of the stupas in Bagan were built by regular families, rather than royalty, so there are thousands peppered across this bucolic unesco World Heritage site. This means you can have whole kilometers of prime stupa-viewing landscape all to yourself. It is much more relaxed than weaving through hoards of people at
some of the region’s more touristed temples, and the sweep of calm green landscape is the cherry on the cultural sundae. On a walking tour with Backyard Travel (backyardtravel.com), my toddler spent 15 minutes mesmerized by a wandering herd of goats while we strolled leisurely from stupa to stupa in the dusty evening sun. We got a lesson in history, he saw goats: everybody won.
kookoo ay wah
Nepa li
vehicular variety Thrill-seekers eight years old and up can take to the skies at
sunrise with Balloons over Bagan (easternsafaris.com; from US$320 per person) for a panoramic view of the historic town, under the blush of dawn. But climbing can make everyone feel like a kid again: just scale one of the taller temples (Ananda and Shwesandaw are popular options) at sunset to fully appreciate Bagan’s unrivaled vista of stupas. There’s the sporty option of renting bikes to cycle through the town and temples. My son was too young for two-wheels, but an hour-long open-air horse-cart ride kept him entertained and, even better, the rhythmic patter of the horse’s gate lulled him to sleep. Tips • The terrain isn’t strollerfriendly so if you have a young one, consider bringing a sturdy baby carrier instead. • Plan your sightseeing in the mornings and evenings; the afternoons are too hot.
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Step back into the 15th century and see the history of a major trading port and cultural melting pot come to life before your eyes. A trip to Hoi An, a dreamy little town on Vietnam’s central coast, with its Japanese trading houses, winding canals, and Chinese temples and teahouses, really feels like a hop back through the ages, and the slow pace makes it a breeze to tackle with kids. My family and I could have easily spent a week there, but with a little strategy you can cram the atmospheric allure of Hoi An all into one weekend. Saturday Lost in thought on a boat ride down the Thu Bon River.
Hoofing it in Hoi An
Not all family thrills require adrenaline-pumping pursuits. As you stroll through this sleepy town in Vietnam at a laid-back pace, your weekend will fly by. By Jacqueline De Segonzac Arce
Lanterns line a little lane.
Afternoon. Take advantage of Hoi An’s reputation for beautifully crafted suits, dresses and children’s clothing, which local tailors can seamlessly conjure up within any limited timeline. Be Be Tailor (bebetailor.com; prices depend on fabric) has a nice selection of fabrics and a talented team of seamsters on staff.
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Evening. Embark on a short sundown cruise along the Thu Bon River; this was my toddler’s favorite part of the trip as we had the whole boat to ourselves (US$5 per person). After docking, spend the evening hours strolling around Old Town, which winds out into many narrow, cobblestone streets and runs
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Duo mao-mao
m a nda rin
along both banks of the river. For US$0.25, light a candle in a small lotus-flower lantern to set adrift along the river at night, which is said to bring luck, love and happiness. Sunday
Morning. Hire a driver or rent bicycles—some even have baby seats attached—and coast by rice paddies on the way to the sea. Cua Dai Beach is close by and, with its milky stretch of fine sand, seems tailored for a late-morning nap. If, alas, your kids aren’t into napping, the midsized surf makes for thrilling but fairly safe boogie boarding and bodysurfing for the tikes, while older kids can challenge themselves to windsurfing, kayaking and Jet-Skiing.
c o u r t e s y o f J a c q u e l i n e D e S e g o n z a c Ar c e ( 2 )
Morning. Purchase an inclusive day pass (tickets can be purchased at booths scattered throughout Old Town; US$6 per person) to all the historical venues including the iconic Japanese Covered Bridge for Instagram-worthy photo opportunities. The pedestrian-only streets are stroller-friendly and the walking is easy on the kids, a much-welcome relief from the madcap traffic in Hanoi.
Afternoon. Take the little one shopping in Old Town for gorgeous kids’ threads and beautifully handcrafted toys. Don’t miss Viet Made ( fb.com/tohehoian) with funky toys and handbags decorated with hand-drawings, all designed by disadvantaged children, and Metiseko (metiseko.com) for its high-end organic cotton children’s clothing. Take a break from browsing to fill up on gelato at Enjoy Ice Cream ( fb.com/enjoy.hoian) or any number of street side cafés. Or if you prefer a more back-to-nature outing, venture out for a Farming & Fishing Life tour with Jack Tran’s EcoTours (jacktran ecotours.com; VND1,575,000 per adult, VND 787,000 per child), wildly popular with all kids, even the grown-up kind. Evening. Dine in town at Vy’s Market (msvy-tastevietnam.com/ the-market; dinner for two US$30), modeled after a street market, with stalls serving up foreigner-friendly streetfood favorites such as fresh spring rolls, steaming bowls of pho, and savory fried dumplings. Check In The Hotel Royal Hoi An borders the Old Quarter and embodies the historic allure of the neighborhood. The rooms blend Japanese and IndoChinese style to elegant effect and are set right on the Thu Bon River. hotelroyalhoian. com; doubles from VND2,875,859, a family of four will need to book two rooms. Getting There Fly direct to Danang from Kuala Lumpur on AirAsia, Singapore on Silkair, and, starting May 25, Bangkok on Bangkok Airways. Visa-free entry is available for most asean nationalities. Visas on arrival are available for other visitors who preapply online.
Goods Hong Kong-based swimwear brand Mazu just introduced children’s sizes, for boys ages six to 10. Their latest trunks (below) were designed in partnership with the Hong Kong Dolphin Conservation Society to help protect the native pink dolphin, with a portion of profits going towards preservation efforts. The new suits launch this month. mazu. com; adult sizes HK$1,400, kids’ sizes HK$800.
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Wildflowers blanket Singha Park.
Field Day
Three destinations in Chiang Rai are helping city kids get their hands dirty with a bounty of outdoor activities. By Merritt Gurle y
Inai, inai, ba!
Anantara Golden Triangle.
singha park You don’t often find zebras grazing rice terraces, but you just might at Singha Park Chiang Rai (singhapark.com; free entry, tram rides Bt50 per person), an agricultural tourism attraction in Northern Thailand. This 13-kilometer chunk of farmland has a wealth of nature-loving activities for the kids, including a swan lake and fields of wildflowers to explore; a fruit and vegetable garden where kids
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can pick and plant fresh produce; a farm house and a zoo full of all kinds of exotic and barnyard animals; and cycling tours, zip-lining and rock climbing for young adventurers. Anantara Golden Triangle Is there any animal more capable of capturing the imagination of children than the majestic never-forgetful elephant? The Anantara Golden Triangle
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Ja pa nese
Mae Salong Right by the border to Burma, the sprawling hillside rice terraces of Mae Salong (part of Diethelm Travel’s Northern Thailand Off the Beaten Track tour; diethelmtravel.com; four nights from Bt24,264 per person) paint a pictorial scene. It was founded in the 1960s by a force of 15,000 anti-Communist Chinese soliders who escaped from Yunnan and settled in these hills. At 1,800 meters above sea level, the area is cool enough for sakura cherry trees, oolong tea, and sunflowers to blossom. Between the rich fresh air, tea tasting, Chinese temples, open-air bazaars and surrounding hill-tribe villages, you too may be tempted to settle here.
Mae Salong.
fr o m t o p : c o u r t e s y o f S i n g h a Pa r k ; c o u r t e s y o f A n a n ta r a G o l d e n Tr i a n g l e ; K e v i n L a n d w e r - J o h a n / g e t t y i m a g e s
(goldentriangle.anantara. com; rooms for families of four from Bt72,300) has an on-site elephant camp designed like a traditional mahout village that offers guests an interactive experience with the gentle giants, and the setting, on a hillside overlooking two rivers, has one of the best views in town.
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Continental Thrift
The latest smart strategies for your European travels, from finding the biggest price drops to figuring out how to tip (yes, they do that now). ILLUSTRATIONS BY VALERO DOVAL
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/ upgrade / The New Good Manners It’s not enough to avoid wearing shorts in church. As times have changed, so have local codes of conduct. How to Pedal Appropriately in Amsterdam
Amsterdammers ride their bikes the way New Yorkers walk and Germans drive: fast and aggressively. Cycling etiquette isn’t always obvious (and locals are often the first to violate it), but Veronique Klomp of Amsterdam bikerental chain MacBike offers a couple pointers.
HOW TO GET TO EUROPE ON MILES
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ant to use loyalty points to fly to Europe? So does everyone else—which is why availability tends to be tight (or nonexistent) and tickets costly. But it’s not impossible to score a deal, especially with these strategies. Consider alternative reward programs. Some charge far fewer miles than others, and let you transfer points from credit card programs such as American Express Membership Rewards and HSBC RewardCash. Asiana charges 115,000 miles for a roundtrip partner flight in business class from Southeast Asia to Europe, versus the 160,000 that Singapore Airlines requires. Search efficiently. While none of the major alliances (Oneworld, Star Alliance and SkyTeam) has a single way to search for award tickets from all of its member carriers, and neither do most Asian airlines, the websites of U.S. airlines are comprehensive in this regard. For Oneworld, use aa.com; for Star Alliance, united. com; and for SkyTeam, search delta.com. Look for obscure partnerships. Some airlines also have separate partnerships with less competition for tickets. ANA points work on Eurowings, Air Dolomiti, Germanwings and Virgin Atlantic. Aer Lingus awards are also a good bet, since you can book tickets using Cathay Pacific or Qantas miles. Fly an unusual route. You can usually find open seats on Thai Airways (part of Star Alliance) from Saigon to Frankfurt; on British Airways (Oneworld) from Kuala Lumpur to London Heathrow; on Korean Air (SkyTeam) from Incheon to Madrid; and on Eva (Star Alliance) from Taipei Taoyuan to Istanbul Atatürk. Watch for new routes. In the first few months, there tend to be more award seats. New in 2016: China Airlines, Taiwan to Rome and Amsterdam; Singapore Airlines, Singapore to Düsseldorf; and Cathay Pacific, Hong Kong to Madrid and London’s Gatwick. Think last-minute. Airlines often open unsold seats late for award bookings. First-class seats on Lufthansa, for instance, generally become available only about two weeks before flights. — ERIC ROSEN AND MONSICHA HOONSUWAN
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Do use hand signals before changing directions or lanes, and obey the bicycle traffic lights. It’s not just polite: breaking a biking rule can cost you €60—or, worse when abroad, cause an accident. Don’t ride side by side, blocking the passing lane, or otherwise hold up traffic. Doing so will earn you peevish glares and angry mutters. “We locals cycle to get from A to B,” Klomp says, “as quickly as possible.” How Not to Be a Jerk in Denmark
The Danes are famously egalitarian—the Crown Prince and Princess even send their children to public school. While in other countries formality is a safe bet when first meeting people, here it can be a faux pas. Do greet everyone in a group with a quick handshake and exchange of first names
before beginning a conversation. To start chatting with the first person you see is to insult the rest. Don’t trot out the honorifics for yourself or others, says Kay Xander Mellish, author of How to Live in Denmark. “Calling yourself ‘Mr.’ or ‘Mrs.’ or ‘Doctor’ or ‘Professor,’ particularly in a spoken context, will seem almost comically pompous to a Dane.” How to Instagram in Italy
Whether it’s the perfect cappuccino or a market stall brimming with tomatoes, Italy offers an endless supply of postable scenes. But Italians take their food seriously, and they consider using it as a prop disrespectful. Here’s how to avoid having your beautiful shot spoiled by a scowling shopkeeper or waiter. Do be a customer first and a photographer second. If that little butcher shop looks good enough to shoot, buy a few ounces of salumi, then ask to take pictures. Don’t insult a restaurateur by letting a dish go cold while setting up the perfect shot, says Katie Parla, author of Eating & Drinking in Rome. Be quick and discreet.
— Matthe w K ronsberg
Cash-Machine Cons ATMs are getting trickier to use with foreign cards; some offer “dynamic currency conversion”—asking if you want the ATM to convert your dollars into local money, instead of letting your home bank do it. Agree, and you’ll get hit with a service fee, usually 2 to 3 percent. Some travelers in Europe have spotted sneaky tactics, like buttons that seem designed to confuse you into accepting and machines that ask repeatedly if you’re sure about your choice. Read each screen carefully before completing your transaction.
the under-over I european price index
f you can take advantage of price fluctuations in travel, you can get more bang for your euro. Skyscanner shows us the average costs of flights from Singapore to European cities this May, while Booking.com provides the average costs of a weeklong stay in 11 different destinations. Highlights to note: While hotel prices are mostly rising, you can offset at least some of the costs with cheaper flights to many cities—with the notable exceptions of London and Rome, both on the rise overall.
Amsterdam
Year-OverYear Change
Netherlands
: €615 -17% : €241 +6%
London
Flight from Singapore
U.K.
: €1,105 +10% : €243 +4%
Berlin
Seven-day hotel stay
Germany
: €410 -25% : €143 +9%
Vienna
Austria
Dublin
: €747 +5% : €160 +7%
Ireland
: €568 -33% : €203 +16%
Istanbul
Paris
Lisbon
Turkey
France
Portugal
Athens
: €716 -21% : €261 +6%
: €407 -26% : €146 +5%
Madrid Spain
: €669 -17% : €150 +10%
Greece
: €1,008 +1% : €142 -5%
: €680 -10% : €166 +13%
Rome Italy
: €801 +18% : €206 +4%
Data courtesy of Skyscanner and Booking.com. The average cost of a seven-day hotel stay is based on four- to five-star accommodations.
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/ upgrade / Sizing Up the Super-Budget Airlines Low-cost carriers dominate European skies with their big networks and too-cheap-to-be-believed fares. our cheat sheet helps you decide when it’s worth it. By Marisa Garcia
When VAT Goes Wrong
v ueling
wizz air
London Gatwick to 36 European cities, mainly in Scandinavia and Western Europe.
More than 200 European cities— including 25 in Spain and 32 in France.
Over 150 destinations across the Continent, although few in Eastern Europe.
Mostly within Eastern Europe, but London is also a hub.
As low as US$42.
As low as US$11.
As low as US$27.
As low as US$27.
WHAT YOU CAN BRING
One small carry-on (emphasis on small). Checked bags start at US$55.
Two small carry-ons. Checked bags start at US$16.
One carry-on and a personal item. Checked bags start at US$38.
One small carry-on. Checked bags start at US$16.
THEY CHARGE FOR WHAT???
Just the usual, like checked luggage and assigned seating.
Checking in at the airport; flying with an infant; paying with a credit card.
Booking; paying with PayPal or certain credit cards.
Booking a ticket; booking online; calling the airline; checking in at the airport.
POTENTIAL DEALBREAKER
Charges of US$10 to US$21 per leg for connecting flights.
The slog to secondary airports. Most London flights, for instance, are from Stansted Airport, an hour and a half from the city center.
If you show up with an extra bag, you’ll be charged an extra US$75 to US$100.
To book a ticket online, you have to navigate a thicket of fees, discount offers and pitches for extra services.
REDEEMING QUALITY
Free highspeed Wi-Fi on many flights; you can even use it to stream news and ondemand video.
In the past few years, Ryanair has permitted more baggage and cut some of its fees.
Passengers can choose to receive loyalty rewards as Vueling Puntos or Avios, good on British Airways and other airlines.
Regular flights to often overlooked spots like Tuzla, Bosnia, and Kutaisi, Georgia.
SURVIVAL HACK
When booking, buy access to a Swissport Executive Lounge.
Wear noisecanceling headphones to block out the persistent in-flight ads.
Save 40 percent by paying for your checked bags in advance.
Bring small bills and change to pay for in-flight food and drink.
HOW CHEAP IS CHEAP?
G
...there are no officials around to stamp your form. You need to prove that you took the goods out of the country. But if you’re driving or taking the train, you may not encounter a customs agent. France, for example, will consider your application if you get it stamped at the French embassy or consulate at home (bring purchases with you). Submit that, proof of residence, a copy of your plane ticket and an explanation within six months. ...you forget (or don’t have time) to get the form stamped. While we can’t officially recommend it, if you’re returning within the export window (often three months), there’s nothing to stop you from bringing everything back.
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ryanair
Their main routes
etting your value-added tax back after shopping can be a pain. Here’s what to do when…
...your refund doesn’t arrive. Ann Druery, a U.K.-based advisor who specializes in VAT, says to make inquiries after two months. If your refund was processed by a third-party service like Global Blue or Travelex, try its online tracker. If you think a merchant is ripping you off, your credit card company may be able to help. — K eith Bl anchard
norwegian
TAP FOR TIPS With tipping now de rigueur in much of Europe (yes, really), you could probably use a good app to navigate the expectations of servers and bellhops. Perfectionists should try the Europe Tip Calculator (US$0.99, iOS). Choose the category, the country, the purchase or luggage amount, and the quality of service; the app uses local standards to calculate the gratuity, down to the euro-cent. Piper (free, iOS) gives quick, general advice for each country.
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Advertisement
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/ upgrade /
DEALS | t+l reader specials
DINING PHUKET
A food-and-culture gathering in a Malaysian beach town and a Mardi Gras-style festival in Vietnam’s old capital provide some of the most exciting ways to enjoy the heat of the summer.
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SPA LUANG PRABANG
Café Hassui in autumn, at Suiran, Kyoto.
SUPER SAVER The Olympian, Hong Kong Get exclusive access to the private lounge at West Kowloon’s newest boutique hotel and the residential-style accommodation complete with a kitchenette and Acca Kappa bath amenities. The Deal Introductory offer: a night in a standard room, from HK$1,600 for two, through June 30. Save up to 39%. theolympianhotel.com.
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Sanctuary Luang Prabang The house and stables of a Lao king’s brother have turned into the unesco-protected main building and gardens of this resort. Its central location means you only have to walk 15 minutes to Luang Prabang’s key attractions. Assume the city’s laid-back vibe and relax with the included Lao massage and late checkout. The Deal Green Season promotion: three nights in a Superior room, from US$120 for two, through September 30. Save up to 44%. sanctuaryhotelsand resorts.com.
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KYOTO
Suiran, A Luxury Collection Hotel The Japanese hotel of dreams celebrates its first anniversary this year by spoiling you with a champagne dinner for two; one-way transport from or to the hotel via either a taxi or a rickshaw; and an indulgent Japanese or American breakfast for two at KyoSuiran. The Deal Kokoro-ba, First Anniversary Special: a night in a Yuzunoha Deluxe room with open-air bath, from ¥99,000 for two, through December 30. Save 20%. suirankyoto.com.
INDONESIA
The Sanchaya Prepared couples experiences include a 60-minute Balinese massage for two; a threecourse dinner for two at Dining Room with a bottle of sommelier-chosen champagne; a one-hour private croquet session for two; and a Romantic Bath Ritual, with choices of food and drinks to enjoy together in an oversized claw-foot bathtub. The Deal Experience Romance: a night in a one-bedroom villa at Lawan Village, from US$1,015 for two, through December 31. Save 25%. thesanchaya.com.
CULTURE SINGAPORE
Hotel Indigo Singapore Katong Opening next month in the former Joo Chiat Police Station, InterContinental’s boutique entry into Singapore takes inspiration from the country’s first heritage district of Katong. This residential area, defined by its colorful prewar, two-story shophouses once home to the Peranakans and Eurasians, is a foodies’ paradise, with authentic options like Katong laksa and kueh chang dumplings. The Deal Advance Purchase: a night in a Deluxe room, from S$180 for two, ongoing. Save 20%. ihg.com.
happens. The Deal Memorable Hue Festival: two nights in a Superior room, from VND7,040,000 for two, through May 15. Save up to 45%. la-residence-hue.com. MALAYSIA
Tanjong Jara Resort We’ll never be royals, but can sure feel like one at this resort inspired by 17th-century Malay palaces. Learn about the local philosophy of suci murni during a complimentary Kampong Sucimurni Lifestyle cultural gathering every Saturday over Terengganu snacks and Malay food staples. Then get back to nature with two daily dive excursions over two days near Tenggol Island, barbecue lunch provided, and a Jara Hill Walk with a resident naturalist. The Deal Tenggol Divers’ Delight: three nights in a Bumbung room, from RM4,479 for two, through October 10. Save 20%. tanjongjararesort.com.
FAMILY SAMUI
Santiburi Beach Resort & Spa The 23-hectare grounds of this Samui stalwart is packed with plenty of activities for a long weekend family getaway, from
Family Sports Camp options that include tennis, cycling, sailing, surfing and muay Thai to a group cooking class with the executive chef. Children may opt for a separate lesson where they whip up dishes for mom and dad, and the parents can relax at the villa’s private sala with a two-hour massage —both are part of the package. The Deal Playcations in Paradise: four nights in a Spa Pool villa, from Bt70,000 for two adults and two children, through November 30. Save 35%. santiburisamui.com. HONG KONG
Eaton The little ones under 12 years of age each receive a special Eaton’s Little VIP Amenity Set: a designed backpack stuffed with entertaining treats, including drawing books and games. There’s never a dull moment with the host of complimentary activities, including daily tai chi class, Jade Market tour and Temple Street Market tour. The Deal Family Getaway: a night in a Family room, from US$198 for two adults and three kids, through June 30; book at fb. com/eatonhongkong. Save 25%. eatonhongkong.com.
CITY SEOUL
The Plaza Seoul, Autograph Collection Indigenous patterns, traditional crafts, and design items by famous Korean artists adorn this centrally located property. A stay here entitles you to a gift bag consisting of N Seoul Tower observatory tickets for two, a W50,000 gift voucher for shopping at the new Galleria Duty Free 63 and a handful of pampering goodies. The Deal Fu He Bao Lucky Bag package: two nights in a Deluxe room, from W520,000 for two, through June 30. Save 29%. marriott.com. SAIGON
Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers Being right in the booming heart of Saigon means you are just a short walk away from popular tourist sites like the Opera House, Ben Thanh Market and the Reunification Palace. The Deal Amazing Weekend Deal: two nights in a Premier Deluxe room, from VND6,600,000 for two arriving on Fridays, Saturdays or Sundays; book by May 31. Save 20%. sheratonsaigon.com. — MONSICHA HOONSUWAN
c o u r t e s y o f T h e S a n c h aya
VIETNAM
La Résidence Hôtel & Spa Get ready for the Mardi Gras of Vietnam. This biennial Hue Festival, held since 2000 in the country’s former capital, celebrates Vietnamese imperial heritage, local pop musicians and traditional village life with a series of performances, parades and concerts. You’ll each get a ticket to one of the festival events along with a 45-minute back-and-shoulder or foot massage at this MGallery property, which sits right across the river from the Citadel where the main action
The Sanchaya’s whitewashed villa, in Bintan, Indonesia.
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Near-Away! by American Express
STUDIO M HOTEL SINGAPORE No. 3 Nanson Road Singapore 238910 Call +65 6808 8890 or email reservations.SMH@millenniumhotels.com to make your bookings now
Studio M Hotel Singapore also boasts lifestyle elements throughout its public areas including a dedicated openair tropical deck complete with reflection pools, a signature 25-metre lap pool and an open-air (naturally ventilated) gym. The spaces allow both privacy and accessibility in comfortable, chic environment.
Set within the bustling entertainment precinct of Robertson Quay and minutes away from the Central Business District (CBD) and renowned Orchard Road, Studio M Hotel Singapore is Singapore’s first fully loft-inspired hotel where style and functionality is key.
Experience innovative accommodation with contemporary living spaces in which to work, rest and play in the heart of the city for a new generation of savvy travellers.
Ranging from Studios to Moonlight lofts, each of the 360 designer rooms feature a mezzanine level that combines style and functionality with comfy living areas. Guests can step into the comfort of the urbaninspired and stylish rooms with 3m high ceiling and sleek amenities including hotel-wide WIFI connectivity, separate work and rest areas.
Enjoy one night stay in the Studio Loft Room at a subsidised rate of S$150 nett.
To enjoy your benefit, please find your staycation vouchers in the voucher pocket of the Membership summary guide.
STUDIO M HOTEL SINGAPORE NEAR-AWAY! BY AMERICAN EXPRESS IS OPEN TO BASIC PLATINUM RESERVE CREDIT CARD MEMBERS. • Card Member must make advance reservation with Studio M Hotel Singapore at +65 6808 8890 or enter the promotional code ‘AMEX150’ when making reservation online at millenniumhotels.com.sg/studiomhotelsingapore/. Any use of vouchers must be stated at time of reservation. • All reservations are subject to availability and not applicable during the following blackout dates (i.e. eve of Public Holidays, Public Holidays, 15-18 February 2016, 11-14 April 2016 and 15-18 September 2016). Please contact Studio M Hotel Singapore for more information. A room reservation confirmation letter or email (in soft or hardcopy) must be presented, along with the physical voucher and your Platinum Reserve Credit Card upon check-in. • Offer may not be combined with other hotel programmes or special offers and is not available on pre-existing reservations. • Cancellation or changes are not allowed upon confirmation of reservation. All no show reservation will be charged based on one (1) night’s room rate. • Card Member is responsible for their parking charges during the whole period of stay at Studio M Hotel Singapore and no complimentary parking will be provided. • Accommodation is for a maximum of two (2) adults and is inclusive of all applicable tax and service charges for such accommodation. Breakfast is not included. Cost of meals and all other incidentals (including applicable tax and service charges), will be charged to the Card Member’s Platinum Reserve Credit Card. • Merchant’s Terms and Conditions apply – please check with respective merchants for details. American Express acts solely as a payment provider and is not responsible or liable in the event that such services, activities or benefits are not provided or fulfilled by the merchant. Merchants are solely responsible for the fulfilment of all benefits and offers. • American Express does not assume liability and American Express Card Member(s) shall not make any claim whatsoever for (i) injury or bodily harm or (ii) loss of damage to property, howsoever caused, arising from, or in connection with these benefits and privileges. • Programme benefits, participating merchants and Terms and Conditions may be amended or withdrawn without prior notice at the sole discretion of the American Express International Inc. Should there be any disputes, the decision of American Express will be final and no correspondence may be entertained. American Express International Inc., (UEN S68FC1878J) 20 (West) Pasir Panjang Road #08-00, Mapletree Business City, Singapore 117439. americanexpress.com.sg Incorporated with Limited Liability in the State of Delaware, U.S.A.® Registered Trademark of American Express Company. © Copyright 2016 American Express Company.
kit yeng chan
Snorkel heaven in Pulau Payar, between Penang and Langkawi.
/ may 2016 / How Goa has quietly morphed into India’s coolest town |
A rare peek at daily life in North Korea | Shark tales and other meanderings in coastal Malaysia | Propelling Budapest to the future, with an eye on the past
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G o A GrowS UP
Not long ago, India’s idyllic beach state was the preserve of backpackers and budget hotels. Now, writes Nayantara Kilachand, a winning mix of artists, chefs and hoteliers have moved in, transforming it into one of the subcontinent’s most stylish places to unwind. photographed by Tom Parker
Starlight on Morjim Beach. opposite: Writer Siddharth Shanghvi’s home in the village of Moira, Goa.
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It was over bowls of ice-cold watermelon fragrant with mint that I sat chatting with Siddharth Dhanvant Shanghvi, an award-winning Mumbai novelist who had recently relocated to Goa. We were on the veranda of his 100-year-old villa in the hamlet of Moira where, from our elevated perch, I could just glimpse a cruelly tempting lap pool, beyond which rice fields glowed electric green. Just a few years ago, this unspoiled Goan village was best known for an unusually large variety of banana. The state’s beaches— arranged along a lush, 102-kilometer stretch of India’s palm-laced western shore—were most commonly associated with low-end, backpacker tourism. Now, certain beaches and inland villages are becoming seriously fashionable. Such is Goa’s newfound status as a locus of Indian cool that hamlets like Moira fall in and out of fashion at the speed of Manhattan neighborhoods. Today, fashion designer Tarun Tahiliani is building whitewashed duplexes in Moira that, when finished, will each sell for upwards of a million U.S. dollars. If further proof were needed of Moira’s status as village du jour, it is the presence of Shanghvi, whose newly restored house, with its sloping roof of red Mangalore tile, has played holiday home to such style-conscious travelers as the Missoni family. The place is littered with contemporary art that any gallery-hopping Mumbai resident would recognize. Out on the veranda, Shanghvi told me about his role as a curatorial advisor to Sunaparanta, a local center for the arts that was about to hold its annual festival, themed this year on love. The lineup was impressive, and included some of India’s most important galleries. Shanghvi explained that as well as becoming increasingly chic, Goa is enjoying a new sense of creative identity, one that has largely been shaped by economics. The cost of living in major Indian cities, such as Mumbai and New Delhi, has exploded in recent years (Mumbai rose 66 places in one 2015 survey of 207 world cities). “What Goa has done is give artists and writers room to not have to negotiate the
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mercenary forces of big-city life,” he said. Here among the banana trees, Shanghvi is clearly freed from such shackles—if he has meetings, they are held on Morjim Beach, where he goes for his daily swim. “It takes away the power equation,” he said. “If you’re on the beach and talking about work then it’s as equals. And it’s certainly more fun.” (Indeed, the day before our meeting, I’d seen him saunter through a restaurant on Ashwem Beach, talking on his mobile phone en route to the beach.) Shanghvi hurried off to meet Nikhil Chopra, an avant-garde performance artist and fellow city escapee who was doing something for the festival. The last time I saw Chopra, he was dressed in a sequined bodysuit and banging on a set of drums in a darkened Mumbai gallery. I had heard that he’d moved from Berlin to the Goan village of Siolim a couple of years ago, just another of the creative types to make this nobrainer shift. Indians—in particular those at the liberal end of the political spectrum— attribute a growing mood of religious and cultural intolerance to right-wing prime minister Narendra Modi’s rise to power in 2014. So multiethnic Goa, where come-as-you-are diversity has always been celebrated, is becoming even more of a safe haven for artists, actors, dancers and designers. I caught up with Chopra at Vinayak, a small family-run restaurant in the picturesque village of Assagao. He had come with an entourage of multiple nationalities: a Slovenian artist who had been living in Goa for 15 years; a visiting French composer; an Indian classical dancer who had come in search of space, both real and metaphorical; and a Bangladeshi artist in residence working at Chopra’s studio in Siolim. Bottles of locally brewed King’s Beer appeared, followed by clams clad in fiery masala tempered with bowls of kokum, a rubyhued broth made from wild mangosteen, said to aid digestion. Between mouthfuls, the group exchanged information about their projects. “I used to come to Goa for holiday. Now I come for work,” said the Slovenian, a tad mournfully.
Sesame-crusted tuna with vegetables at Sublime, on Morjim Beach. Clockwise from top right: Catholic priests in Old Goa; Sacha Mendes in her shop in Panjim; a mural in Arambol; a view of the beach from Ahilya by the Sea; a staffer at Paros.
The colonial interiors of Siddharth Shanghvi’s restored, 100-year-old villa. OPPOSITE: The novelist relaxing by his pool.
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Backpackers on Arambol Beach. clockwise from right: Tented accommodation at Paros by Amarya, on Morjim Beach; one of Ahilya by the Sea’s two pools; Burmese fusion at Bomras, in Candolim.
Like much of India, Goa is often
thought of as a land defined by colonizers. Most famous were the Portuguese, who, after their conquest in 1510, imported chilies, cashews and Catholicism to this idyllic postage stamp of a state (at less than 2,400 square kilometers, it is India’s smallest). They ruled until 1961, and in the intervening 450 years enhanced the Goan people’s already languid pace of life, as well as tastebuds for spicy food and potent, homebrewed liquor. Then, in the late 1960s, the hippies arrived. Lured by Goa’s relaxed reputation, as well as its endless beaches, a generation of Western flower children, nudists and pseudo-spiritualists claimed the state as their own. In the 1980s and 90s, it developed a reputation as India’s Ibiza, a raffish party-state beloved by backpackers, bongo players, and lovers of a forgettable genre of dance music known as Goa trance. Now, 29 years after officially gaining statehood, Goa is asserting its cultural independence. It isn’t only artists who’ve made their mark. Homegrown entrepreneurs have injected the region’s hotel, restaurant and shopping scene with a much-needed dose of sophistication. At the same time, many foreignrun establishments have gone seriously upmarket. Between them, they’ve made Goa one of India’s most stylish places to unwind— the perfect antidote to, say, a hectic week amid the heat and crowds of the Golden Triangle. The change is exemplified by the return of native Goans like Sacha Mendes. A former fashion stylist who lived and worked in Mumbai for many years, Mendes came back to Goa to become a part of its reawakening. “There is a whole generation of us who want to do amazing things here,” she told me. She opened Sacha’s Shop, a boutique in the state capital, Panjim, in a corner room of her family’s ancestral home. There, between walls painted the color of the setting Goan sun (a faded yellow called Portuguese Iberian) she sells all manner of curious and beautiful things: voluminous silk shifts in rainbow tones, ceramic teapots, sorbet-hued shawls fringed with tiny pompoms, and jumpsuits by the cult Goan designer Savio Jon. Goa’s old hands point out that the current wave of entrepreneurship has its roots in the backpacker movement, when trails of young, freethinking foreigners imported their lifestyle, their design sensibilities and, perhaps most significantly, their food culture to these sandy shores. Goan cuisine has always been heavily informed by its Christian
forefathers—the region remains one of the few in India where pork and beef are openly served and consumed—but in the past two decades or so, its food has become infused with a truly global diversity; Goa is now thought of as having the country’s most vibrant and adventurous dining scene. Morgan Rainforth was one of the pioneers. He’s the French co-owner of La Plage, a restaurant under the palm trees on Ashwem Beach that, since it opened in 2002, has gone from being an insider secret to an international hit. “When we started, we used to have a lot of tourists,” he said. “Now we get everyone from Kate Moss to [Bollywood star] Amitabh Bachchan. We see locals, jet-setters, families and backpackers who come and spend all their cash with us.” The success of La Plage and businesses like it was emboldening—both for international entrepreneurs and for people flying in from other parts of India.
come-as-you-are diversity has always been celebrated Many who came in their late teens or twenties returned to set up their own culinary experiments years later. That’s the story behind Matsya Freestyle Kitchen, in up-and-coming Arambol, where tattooed Israeli chef Gome Galily presides over what’s rapidly becoming one of the hottest restaurants in the country. It is in many ways typical of the kind of dining venture that Goa was known for in the past— expat-run, only open during tourist season, and casually, almost carelessly, done up, a few tables scattered under a canopy of tamarind and mango trees where insects frequently divebomb drinks and the light comes from candles. But that’s where Matsya’s similarity with the average backpacker beach restaurant ends. To an orchestra of chirping crickets, I was treated to the full artillery of Galily’s talents, honed during stints at European restaurants like Noma and on unusual gigs such as cooking on the yacht of an unnamed Russian billionaire. t r a v e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m / m a y 2 0 1 6
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the walls are painted the color of the setting Goan sun, a faded yellow called Portuguese Iberian
Tourists in search of the perfect Instagram shot on the cliffs above Vagator Beach.
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The breadth of Galily’s experience showed in every mouthful. He delivered gleaming crab claws coated in olive oil and white wine, ceviche of caught-that-day red snapper, crispy-ricecoated calamari nestled in a bed of pale green papaya salad, and just-sweet-enough coconut pancakes piled with prawns, portobello mushrooms and purple basil. Galily first set foot on the subcontinent 10 years ago, as a backpacker who ended up cooking in exchange for a bed, food and a motorbike. It was around this time that Goa’s front-runners were beginning to tinker with pretty plating and gastronomic innovation. In addition to La Plage, there was Bomras, in Candolim, where chef Bawmra Jap introduced a style of delicate, daring Burmese fusion cooking to the subcontinent and quickly came to be seen as one of Goa’s flag bearers. But it was Sublime, run by another tattooed chef and serving the kind of modern European cuisine rarely seen in India at that time, that was Galily’s biggest inspiration. Sublime’s Mumbaiborn chef-owner, Christopher Saleem Agha Bee, was among the first to prove Indians did have an appetite for ceviche, crudo and confit. “It’s because of Chris that we can do this,” Galily told me.
Tucked away in a shady coconut grove on fashionable Ashwem Beach, Anahata Retreat is another emblem of the new Goa. A laid-back cluster of thatched-roof huts and Portuguese cottages, the resort is run collectively by New Delhi transplants Rishal Sawhney, his Spanish-Swiss wife, Angela, and their friend Bawa Mohit Singh. Their mix of Indian and international sensibilities is
reflected in the menu at L’Atelier, the buzzy restaurant on the property: a traditional vinegar-spiked seafood mix called balchao is topped with crème fraîche and spread on a pizza, while cocktails are made with elderflower liqueur and thyme-infused gin. Anahata is barefoot living, to be sure, but its guest rooms still have showerheads the size of large saucers and beds clad in lush, bright white linen. A little further up the scale is the quietly luxurious Ahilya by the Sea, a new boutique property managed by the half-American Richard Holkar, son of the late maharajah of Indore. If Anahata is where you might go to get coated in sticky sea air, Ahilya is where you come to wash it off—in an infinity pool overlooking a dolphin-filled cove dotted with puttering fishing boats. It’s one of those hotels that immediately feels like a home, for good reason. The property, which overlooks the spot where the Arabian Sea meets the mouth of the Mandovi River, used to be the vacation home of Holkar’s son-in-law’s mother, Leela Ellis. Ellis, granddaughter of prominent Goan painter Antonio Xavier Trindade, did such a meticulous job decorating the nine rooms with treasures brought back from her many travels that when Holkar and his partners took over, practically all they had to do was replace the bed sheets. Wandering from my room in the Sunset villa, with its views of the glistening bay, I walked through a garden thick with banana and papaya trees and two stately banyans. Settling in a deck chair by the pool, I watched fishermen tug in their nets as opportunistic kites made off with wriggling fish. There is a menu at Ahilya, of course, but most guests prefer to leave dinner decisions to Ahilya’s affable on-site managers, Mathieu Chanard and Bambi Mathur. They did not disappoint: Succorine, the hotel cook, made me a superb seafood thali. As I sat under a night sky fragrant with frangipani and picked fried fish off the bone like a cat, it struck me that this state, which long has been an anomaly, will probably always remain one. Some people attribute Goa’s otherness to the fertile soil that gives it its emerald fields and forests, while some put it down to a lack of the caste-based hierarchies that straitjacket other parts of the country. Others simply say there’s something in the air. As Shanghvi had put it earlier, Goa can’t really be compared with Mumbai or Delhi: “I would not think of it as a competitive voice to Bombay or Delhi. It’s something peerless.”
Diners at La Plage, in Ashwem. Clockwise from right: Panjim’s Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception church; fresh kingfish on Morjim Beach; a tea tray in Siddharth Shanghvi’s home. opposite: Gathering nets on Nerul Beach.
The details GETTING THERE All foreign visitors to India need to obtain a visa from an Indian mission or post abroad, before entering the country. Visit indianvisaonline.gov.in for details. HOTELS Ahilya by the Sea This art- and artifact-filled converted family home has sweeping views of the Arabian Sea. Nerul; ahilyabythe sea.com; doubles from US$320. Anahata Retreat Sixteen rooms on Ashwem Beach amid a grove of palm trees. Mandrem; anahataretreat.com; doubles from US$100. Paros by Amarya The secluded property offers eight luxury tents
and a three-bedroom Portuguese villa on the sands of Turtle Beach. Morjim; amaryagroup.com; tents from US$90. W Retreat & Spa Goa W’s first property in India is scheduled to open on North Goa’s Vagator Beach in June. whotels.com; rates unavailable at press time. RESTAUR ANTS & BARS Bomras Celebrated for its delicate Burmese-fusion fare, like pickled-tea-leaf salad or tuna larb. Candolim; bomras.com; mains Rs460-Rs670. Gunpowder An old Portuguese villa sets the scene for homey seafood and pork dishes from across the South Indian peninsula.
Assagao; fb.com/gunpowdergoa; mains Rs200-Rs460. La Plage The French owners’ Gallic influence is evident in terrines, pâtés and soufflés. Mandrem; 91-98/2212-1712; mains Rs400-Rs800. L’Atelier The casual beachside locale belies the cosmopolitan dishes. Mandrem; anahataretreat. com; mains Rs330-Rs530. Matsya Freestyle Kitchen Remotely situated, with a farm-totable, no-menu philosophy shaped entirely by its celebrated Israeli chef. Arambol; samatagoa.com; prix fixe Rs2,000. Sublime Chris Bee’s take on modern European fare is exceptional; a restaurant that’s
well worth stopping by. Morjim; fb.com/sublimemorjim; mains Rs460-Rs540. Vinayak Family Restaurant & Bar A frills-free joint known for its filling fish thali. Assagao; 91-90/ 4938-0518; mains Rs330-Rs460. SHOPS Sacha’s Shop Former fashion stylist Sacha Mendes stocks a hodgepodge of beautiful clothing and home accessories. sachasshop.com. The Shop by Nana Ki A boho, Goa-by-way-of-Paris sensibility finds its way into the wildly colorful cover-ups, embroidered bags, and chunky accessories sold here. nanaki.fr.
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While the mere mention of this secluded nation evokes instant mental images, there’s more to daily life in North Korea than meets the casual eye. story and photographs by scott a. woodward
Y u s u k e O k a d a /a m a n a i m a g e s / C o r b i s . o p p o s i t e : N a o ya K i m o t o
orth Korea
North Koreans stroll past Pyongyang’s Arch of Triumph at twilight. Commemorating the DPRK’s military resistance against Japanese occupation, The Arch is North Korea’s larger answer to France’s Arc de Triomphe—for the Hermit Kingdom’s memorial is, of course, 10 meters taller than the one in Paris.
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top: Minding the gate
of the Mangyongdae Funfair, a small amusement park in Mangyongdae-guyok, about 12 kilometers outside Pyongyang. opposite: A bridal party at the Mansudae Grand Monument in Pyongyang. The 22-meter-high bronze statues of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il stand in front of the Korean Revolution Museum displaying a mosaic of Paektu-san (or Mount Paektu, meaning “Long White Mountain�), an active volcano on the northwest border between North Korea and China that is considered sacred.
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he Democratic People’s Republic of Korea is doubtless one of the most isolated and repressive nations on the planet. Shut off from the world since its liberation from Japanese rule at the end of World War II, and cloaked in mystery ever since, it is estimated that only 5,000 Western tourists visit the Hermit Kingdom annually. For the past 70 years, the North Korean regime has promulgated juche, the pervasive doctrine of self-reliance. The DPRK has long struggled against foreign occupation, molding into the collective consciousness a deep acrimony towards outside influence while remaining the last frontier of isolationism in the modern world. However, despite its tendency toward seclusion, North Korea has raised its curtain a bit in recent years, allowing a small and tightly controlled audience of Western visitors into the secretive state.
or more than a decade, I have been fascinated by the DPRK, longing to travel there and experience the infamous Hermit Kingdom. Finally, this past October—after years of unsuccessful attempts and with the assistance of Uri Tours (uritours.com)—I was able to secure a visa and travel to North Korea for seven days during the national celebrations commemorating the 70th anniversary of the founding of the Workers’ Party of Korea, the lone ruling regime of the DPRK’s 25 million citizens. The government’s pageantry was a lavish affair: a meticulously choreographed performance featuring thousands of goose-stepping soldiers and a legion of military vehicles rolling through Kim Il-sung Square, and then thundering along Pyongyang’s boulevards, thronged on either side by the flag-waving masses.
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left: A group of North
Koreans waits patiently for a train to arrive at Glory Station. Constructed in the 1970s, each of the 16 Metro stations is decorated with ornate chandeliers, intricate mosaics of smiling North Korean laborers as well as giant murals of the DPRK’s Great Leader Kim Il-sung, and his son, the Dear Leader Kim Jong-il. Below: On the Metro
at Prosperity Station, several North Koreans carry bright plastic flowers to wave at the Foundation Day parade later that day.
left: Two young women, dressed in the traditional Korean joseon-ot, perform local songs for lunch diners at the Kalleomgil Restaurant in Pyongyang. Below: A military tour
guide prepares to deliver a speech in front of a 15-metertall bronze likeness of Kim Il-sung at Samjiyon. Depicting the Great Leader as a 27-year-old soldier, this is the second largest statue in the DPRK and commemorates North Korea’s war of resistance against Japan and the Battle of Pochonbo.
opposite: School children perform a choreographed song and dance for visitors who have come to the nearby Chongsanri Cooperative Farm outside Nampho. Education in North Korea is state-funded and purported to be universal. But while schools teach children literacy, it is understood that the primary educational emphasis is on indoctrination.
expected this demonstration of might, showing the world and reassuring the collective that North Korea is strong, its leadership firmly in control. But the DPRK’s theatrics are not limited to such occasions. I quickly learned that catching a glimpse of real life in the DPRK is nearly impossible. In an attempt to make the nation appear prosperous to foreign visitors, North Korea has scripted an elaborate fictional production that never breaks for intermission. I found myself staring out the windows of our coach and my hotel room at the mysterious land beyond the threshold, trying to see a life I could never imagine. We were never permitted to leave our state-run hotel alone; accompanied at all times by two government guides, our small tour group was closely monitored, every aspect of our experience carefully stage-managed as we ourselves became guest players in this live performance. On the rare occasions when we were permitted to gape upon a garish monument, wander an empty square or gawk at an elaborate show, I was always more interested in what was happening off stage left or right than in what was taking place at center stage, much to my minders’ chagrin. This series of photography represents my experience as an audience member marveling at the rehearsed mass spectacle that is North Korea, and as a player endeavouring to peek behind the curtain, glimpsing brief and unscripted moments of the Hermit Kingdom’s individual people.
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100 Kilometers of Kedah Chasing sharks by day and a yacht’s wake at dusk, Marco Ferrarese discovers a few more surprises tucked down the less-visited coast of northwest Malaysia’s Kedah state.
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Photographed by Kit Yeng Chan
Baby blacktip sharks tempt swimmers in the shallows of Pulau Payar. Opposite: A Tropical Charters cruise around Langkawi.
“Stop being a fool or it will bite you.”
clockwise from above: Barracuda send
other sea life scattering in the Coral Garden dive site; making friends; the unspoiled horizon.
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My companion and voice of reason is right: trying to grab a baby blacktip shark by the tail is an act of pure madness. But conformity and safety be damned, for I have never swum that close to such a fearsome but elegant creature before, in the emerald green waters of Pulau Payar, midway between the better-known Malaysian islands of Penang and Langkawi. I’m not crazy, just overcome by temptation. Wherever I wade in this sea, a missile-shaped baby shark comes wriggling its tail in front of my nose, and the game’s on. It zooms forward, circles around the pier’s poles, and then loops back, darting all around me. From the water, the shark looks as if it were an unruly remote-controlled toy with no sense of direction, hell-bent on driving me crazy. The chase is unfair: I have no fins nor the buoyancy of a shark, and every time I get anywhere close to gripping its tail between my fingertips, the creature twists away. Luckily for my tired shoulders, I don’t have to fire off after that particular rocket, because as soon as it’s lost in the deep blue, another mini-shark drifts my way, and I have a new tail to chase.
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After a good half hour of serious paddling, I’m the exhausted loser of this man-versus-wild challenge. Letting the snorkel out of my mouth, I emerge to the placid sea surface, floating and soaking in all the sun I can as if I were a spent battery in need of a solar recharge. I close my eyes, feeling giddy on top of gentle waves that rock me up and down like liquid lullabies. am in Pulau Payar, the bestpreserved marine park on the west coast of Peninsular Malaysia, the largest in a single file of four protected and uninhabited islands— Payar, Lembu, Kaca and Segantang—30 kilometers southeast of Langkawi. With no hotels, it’s a great place to escape the development of other nearby Malaysian beach destinations. Diving and snorkeling here still feel like being lost in a remote paradise. The only way to visit Pulau Payar is as a day trip from either Langkawi or Penang. After a two-hour ferry ride operated by Langkawi Coral from the latter, we are ushered on a floating platform moored off the island, the waiting station for all visitors to the marine park. In a gambit to preserve the reef from global warming, a lifejacket-wearing guide briefs us on the local dos and don’ts.
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“Please do not step on corals, and only swim within the designated areas,” he says looking at each one of us with a serious brow. I’m relieved that attempting to catch blacktip sharks by the tail is not listed among the forbidden activities. The platform has ladders that dip directly into the sea. As soon as we step in, clouds of multicolored fish swarm around our knees, tickling us into taking a plunge into their emerald home. Floating on the water surface above, we get a bird’s-eye view of their submarine city, a cluster of rocks and corals that shape Pulau Payar fish world’s busy highways. The temptation to have a closer look is strong, so we get back on the platform to sign up for a fun dive.
There are more than a dozen dive sites around Payar and its three smaller sisters, but since we are only here for a day trip, we opt for Coral Garden, the closest to the platform. As I descend toward the bottom of the sea, I’m distracted by a few large rocks that seem to be a bit too alive. I’m surprised when I realize the boulders are actually three grouper fish the size of my body, their scales perfectly camouflaged to look like they’re part of the reef. I keep breathing slowly as they separate me from groups of industrious clown fish wriggling among the tips of anemones. Their dance continues until a shadow looms in from one side, scaring them away in a dash of orange and white. I gulp and swim away, too, when the ugly mug of a barracuda emerges from the reef, its sabre-sharp teeth a reminder that life in this marine underworld means survival of the fittest.
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y midafternoon, we arrive at Kuah’s port in Langkawi, and sea salt still stiffens our skin. No point in washing it off, though, because before retiring to our cozy chalet at Panji Panji, a new, peaceful gem on the northern end of an otherwise bustling Pantai Cenang, we have more water-borne activities to come. Lounge chairs wait for us on the deck of a Tropical Charters’ yacht that will take us around Langkawi’s southern islets, this time chasing the tail of the sun. Piña coladas in hand, we leave Langkawi’s port sailing over peaceful waters and among viridiancovered atolls that emerge from the ocean like the backs of colossal, shy ostriches. We are sharing the boat with a group of Kiwis on a bachelor’s party holiday, and things are about to get a little wild. “Ladies and gentlemen, get into your swimming clothes, for our own marine Jacuzzi is waiting,” a thin but muscular Malay in shades and red trunks announces from the upper deck. He’s Jay, our chaperone for the night. We all gather at the back of the yacht, where a rope net is slung into the sea.
From left: Zahir Mosque in Alor Setar; amid the millenniumold ruins of Chola religious sanctuaries, in Bujang Valley.
“C’mon, jump in,” Jay urges, throwing beer cans to the first few who are already dangling on the net. Soon we are all floating in the ocean, enjoying a natural whirlpool-like massage in the trail of the yacht. Munching on marinated shrimps and barbecued chicken fresh off the grill, we end the day admiring the sun dive into the ocean and leaving a sparkling trail of stars in its wake. Maybe it was the sunset cruise’s free flow that inspired our change of plans. Instead of returning to Penang, we venture into Kedah state proper, a place that rarely makes it on Malaysia’s travel routes despite all it has to offer. We rise early the next day to catch a 90-minute ferry ride to Kuala Kedah’s jetty, a mere 12 kilometers from Kedah’s capital city, Alor Setar. Rising on the flanks of the Kedah River, this sleepy town is dotted with magnificent mosques and is noted for being the home of Malaysia’s former prime minister, Mahathir Bin Mohamad. Our cab passes by his gracious wooden home on our way across the river to find the city’s main attraction, the sumptuous Zahir Mosque. With its black onion domes and starkly contrasting white marble pavilions, it’s a piece of Islamic architecture right out of an Arabian Night’s fairytale. In the vivid light, the mosque looks as if it were breathing peacefully, like a sleeping giant protecting the heart of this slow-paced yet intriguing town. It’s time to catch a bus south along the green paddy fields that flank the 65 kilometers to Sungai Petani, Kedah’s second most important town, but a hive of activity compared to Alor Setar. We decide to break the journey here at M Season, a centrally located boutique hotel with airy rooms and complimentary massage chairs in the lobby. t r a v e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m / m a y 2 0 1 6
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From top: Sunset
snapshots on the southern Langkawi waters; clown fish hide-and-seek in Pulau Payar.
The details Getting There Pulau Payar is accessed from both Penang and Langkawi. Two daily ferry connections from Penang to Langkawi leave the Sweetenham Pier Cruise Terminal at 8:15 a.m. and 8:30 a.m. (langkawi-ferry. com; RM60 one way); the first makes a direct stop at Pulau Payar. From Langkawi, you must book an excursion with one of the snorkel- and divetour operators that depart Kuah ferry terminal. If you fly from Kuala Lumpur to Alor Setar via AirAsia, take a taxi to Kuala Kedah and catch one
of the 10 daily boats to Langkawi between 7 a.m. and 7 p.m. (langkawiferryline.com; RM23 one way). Stay Panji Panji An intimate cluster of wooden-furnished chalets and a villa set around a secluded pool and in walking distance to a lonesome bend of Pantai Cenang, the mouth of a river, and a romantic fishing pier. 965 Jln. Pantai Cenang, Langkawi; 60-4/952-3319; panjipanji.com; doubles from RM350.
i feel giddy atop gentle waves that rock me like liquid lullabies
M Season Hotel Spacious rooms with wooden floors in walking distance to Sungai Petani’s Old Town. 119-120 Jln. Masjid, Sungai Petani; 60-4/424-2133; mseasonhotel.com.my; doubles from RM140. Eat La Sal at Casa del Mar Haute cuisine in a romantic setting right on the beachfront. Jalan Pantai Cenang, Mukim Kedawang, Langkawi; 60-4/955-2388; casadelmar-langkawi.com; meal for two from RM100.
Restoran RT The latest Malay-Chinese fusion restaurant in Kedah’s capital, Alor Setar. Jalan Tunku Abdul Hakim, Teluk Wanjah, Alor Setar; 60-16/ 418-8575; 11 a.m to 2:30 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 9:30 p.m.; meal for two from RM30. Ch’ng Chong Kooi Coffee Shop Sungai Petani bus station’s hawker center off Jalan Petri; 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. (closed on Wednesdays); meal for two from RM20. Activities Langkawi Coral langkawi
coral.com; diving and snorkeling trips from RM295 per person, daily trips from Langkawi to Pulau Payar leave 9:30 a.m., return 3 p.m. East Marine Diving Pulau Payar eastmarine.com.my; Experience Scuba Introductory Diver package RM350 per person. Langkawi Sunset Cruise by Tropical Charters tropicalcharters.com.my; cruises from RM260 per person. Lembah Bujang Archaeological Museum jmm.gov.my; free admission.
An eclectic mix of Malay and Chinese hawkers and patrons eat, cook and chat around the imposing clock tower in Old Town, a relic of the past compared to Sungai Petani’s recent development. We slurp the local flavor with cups of ais kacang– shaved ice served with syrup, grass jelly, sweet corn and topped with condensed milk—at riverside coffee shop Ch’ng Chong Kooi. Next, we’re headed for west Malaysia’s richest archeological area, a reminder of the HinduBuddhist influence that the seafaring Chola kingdom brought from South India to Southeast Asia between the 10th and 13th centuries. Bujang Valley, sandwiched between lush Mount Jerai and the Muda River near the village of Merbok, holds 90 ruins of candi, the ancient brick and stone Hindu and Buddhist terraced sanctuaries. We hire a taxi to take us 15 kilometers to the foot of Batu Pahat hill, the main tourist spot where four of the original candis have been relocated from other excavation sites in the valley. At the top, a swarm of visiting high school students from Tanjung Malim in southern Perak state is trawling on the temple bases, filling a solemn place with their youthful curiosity. When some come forward to interview me, the only foreigner here today, for their research project, I feel awkward drawing attention to myself from this ancient beauty. I also, as a reporter, feel a slightly disconcerting role-reversal. After so much beach, the dry shade here makes us heartsick for water, and we make a final pit stop at the Merbok River Jetty Complex. It’s too late to catch a cruise upriver, but a perfect time to lounge with a coconut in hand, sipping fresh juice as the sun drips gold into the placid river below. Our taxi revs impatiently in the parking lot, but we have no intention of leaving just yet. Missing the direct boat to Penang was real travel eureka. From chasing sharks in Payar to absorbing ancient history in the Bujang Valley, nearly 100 kilometers of Kedah’s coast packs a bounty of underwater and newly unearthed charm.
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BIGGER The Hungarian capital has entered its most profound period of transformation since its imperial zenith. STEPHEN HEYMAN explores a city that is both proud of its rich heritage and enthralled by the possibilities of the future.
The 119-year-old Great Market Hall, Budapest’s largest indoor market, a showcase for Hungary’s culinary bounty.
BETTER BUDAPEST photographed by simon watson
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A battlement below Fisherman’s Bastion offers stunning views of Buda, the Danube, and Pest beyond.
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IF YOU WANT TO UNDERSTAND BUDAPEST, BUY A SUBWAY TICKET. The oldest electrified metro line in Continental Europe lies below the Hungarian capital, running parallel to one of the youngest. When Line 1 opened, in 1896, the Austro-Hungarian Empire’s second city was in its Belle Époque glory days, complete with opulent cafés, immaculately shaved gentlemen, and parasol-toting young ladies given to hysteria. The new subway typified the prosperity of Europe’s fastest-growing city. Secession-style entrances of wrought iron led down to stations lined with glazed mosaic tiles. The electric-powered cars were clad in polished wood. “Exceedingly handsome,” wrote a correspondent for a London railroad review. “More like the saloon of a yacht than a tram car.” The three-kilometer line and its 11 stations took only 20 months to construct. Christened as the Millennium Underground Railway, the system opened in time for a massive celebration announcing the city on the Danube as a hypermodern metropolis of fin de siècle Europe. The original trains were replaced in the 1970s with vaguely antiqued modern
cars, but Line 1, now a unesco World Heritage site, remains fully functional, a nostalgic thread connecting many of the city’s most lavish imperial sights. By contrast, Line 4, completed in 2014, was considered a failure before construction even began. The plan to link the medieval village of Buda to the chaotic commercial district Pest, across the Danube, was approved in the 1970s but languished in political deadlock for more than 30 years. After construction began, in 2006, it quickly became an emblem of the corruption and mismanagement that, while less common than in the days of “goulash Communism,” still affect Hungary. Unexplained delays caused the budget to balloon to US$2 billion. Residents griped that the line connected parts of the city that didn’t need connecting, while doing nothing to solve the city’s chronic traffic jams. But the young architects who were charged with designing the subway’s look refused to let these problems compromise their principles. The stations they created— among the few examples of serious contemporary
from left: A satirical billboard mocking Budapest’s bid for the 2024 Summer Olympics; Brody House,
a boutique hotel in downtown Pest; a view of Parliament.
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from left: Liberty Bridge, which connects Buda and Pest across the Danube; the Millennium Monument in Heroes Square;
tech entrepreneur Adam Somial-Fischer at Prezi, his company in Merkúr Palace.
architecture in Budapest since the fall of Communism— are raw concrete voids, warmed by natural light and supported by huge, crisscrossing horizontal beams. Some have soaring escalators, others complex mosaics. Subtle visual clues like LEDs of alternating colors mark different directions, part of an intuitive navigation system city planners call “way-finding.” The trains are driverless. When you ride Line 4, you see a bright vision of the city’s future. That it works and also doesn’t, that it’s sort of sublime but sort of screwed up, makes the subway line an apt metaphor for modern Budapest itself. The ambition that rescued Line 4 from itself is also in evidence aboveground, where a controversial US$700 million plan may soon reshape Budapest’s beloved City Park into a new cultural quarter. If completed as planned, the project will add three museums by 2019, including a National Gallery designed by the Japanese architectural firm sanaa. I came to Budapest in summer, when the city was aglow, the heat almost Mediterranean in its capacity to induce languor. At times like these, there’s only one thing to do: find a kert, an outdoor garden café, and order a fröccs, which is white or rosé wine mixed with soda water in precise deciliter ratios, each with a nickname; the half-liter is called házmester (“caretaker”), the full-liter maflás (“silly”). Get your measurements right, and you can drink them all day without getting a headache. The first kert I visited spilled out of a kiosk in Szabadság Tér, or Liberty Square, near Parliament. This, I thought after my second házmester, must be one of the most arresting plazas in Central Europe. It’s an immense gallery of
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Neoclassical and Art Nouveau architecture, including a palatial 19th-century building that now houses, behind a forbiddingly high fence, the American Embassy. Across from a fountain, where naked children were dodging jets of water, is a deeply unpopular new memorial, erected by the government “to the victims of the German occupation.” Hungary is represented as the innocent Archangel Gabriel, preyed upon by a swooping German imperial eagle. Critics dismiss it as an attempt to whitewash the country’s complicity in the Holocaust. Opposite the statue, citizens have created a protest memorial, arranging evidence of Hungarian involvement: little shoes, strands of barbed wire, laminated photos and handwritten accounts of Jewish, Roma, or gay residents who were sent to Auschwitz or shot here on the banks of the Danube. Even by European standards, past demons are especially present in Hungary. In the last parliamentary elections, more than 20 percent of the vote went to the far-right, neofascist Jobbik party, whose members have said that Hungary’s Jews should be “tallied up” because they pose “a threat to national security.” The country’s premier, Viktor Orban, routinely condemns Jobbik, but his governing party, Fidesz, is hardly progressive. Last summer, Orban emerged as a minor villain in Europe’s refugee drama when he built a razor-wire fence along the Serbian border to stop the flow of Syrian and Iraqi refugees, expressing a desire to “keep Europe Christian.” While Orban’s mix of populism and nativism has been a winner at the ballot box, it gives liberal-minded
from left: Fisherman’s Bastion, a scenic overlook on Castle Hill; the Jewish-themed restaurant and bar Mazel Tov.
Budapesters indigestion. People I met seemed proud of their city, but pained about its politics and the attendant bad press. When I was in town, a crowdfunded billboard campaign told visitors, in English, “Sorry about our prime minister.”
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ost European capitals developed over centuries, but almost all of Budapest’s iconic destinations— Parliament, St. Stephen’s Basilica, the Opera House—were completed in a 30-year sprint beginning around 1875. This is why the city, even more than Vienna, gives off such a unified imperial vibe. “It really has the feeling of a city that was going to be the new twin capital of an empire,” Edwin Heathcote, the half-Hungarian architecture critic for the Financial Times, had told me. “But by the time it was finished, the empire had disappeared. There’s a slight sadness about it almost, that in a way it was a city of unrealized potential.” Line 4 was designed not to measure up to Budapest’s past glories but to break with them. “We didn’t want to be faithful to the historic architecture of Budapest,” explained Zoltán Erő, whose firm, Palatium, supervised the new subway’s overall look. We were descending beneath a geodesic glass canopy into the Bikás Park station, which, though finished, retains a theoretical quality, like being inside a blueprint. “It wasn’t about heritage. It was about making a new world.” Many of the city’s young entrepreneurs share Erő’s attitude. One is Adam Somlai-Fischer, who studied art in
Sweden and exhibited internationally before returning in 2008 to cofound tech start-up Prezi. Today, the company, which makes cloud-based presentation software used in corporate boardrooms and TED Talks, has 65 million users, a satellite office in San Francisco, and more than US$70 million in venture-capital funding. “Everything is still forming here,” Somlai-Fischer said. “So there’s a real opportunity to do things on the cutting edge.” Prezi employs staffers from 26 countries at its office in Merkúr Palace, an ornate, century-old municipal building where the city’s telephone switchboard operators once worked. Recruiting them to Budapest is easy, according to Somlai-Fischer. “People love moving here,” he said. “And it’s not only because they can actually afford to go to a Michelin-starred restaurant. There’s a humble hospitality that you see in Budapest. People don’t brag, but they’re happy about the things that are good about this city, and are excited to share them with you.” Internet companies aren’t the only ones breaking through here. Nanushka, a fashion label begun by the elfin, London-trained designer Szandra Sándor, opened as a tiny pop-up shop in the Fifth District in 2011. Sándor hired architecture students to build her shop on a budget of less than US$3,000. They hoisted canvas sheets, creating a kind of womblike tent, and made a floor out of slices of firewood. She couldn’t make rent, so the landlord just took a percentage of whatever she sold. The pop-up shop never closed. Sándor’s designs, which take inspiration from Norse mythology, cater to tourists and a sliver of wealthy, plugged-in Budapesters, the kind
who drink single-origin coffee at the nearby Espresso Embassy, a trendy café in a cellarlike space. “Initially, coming from Budapest was a bit of a turnoff for clients because people either didn’t know any other designers from here or they had negative associations from Communist times regarding quality,” Sándor told me. “But once they see the clothes, they fall in love, and then being from Budapest becomes a plus because it’s exotic. Who knows what Hungarian fashion is? That’s exciting because I can play a part in defining our aesthetic.”
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nother way Budapest is shaping its future is by reinventing its past. The most enduring example of this is the “ruin bar.” In 2002, a group of young artists negotiated with representatives of Budapest’s Seventh District, the city’s historic Jewish quarter, to take over one of the city’s many heritage buildings that had fallen into disrepair. They made a roof out of tarps, filled the space with found objects—mismatched furniture, a discarded bathtub, an old East German Trabant sedan—and sold cheap beer. Called Szimpla Kert, it gave rise to dozens of copycats, and in the process transformed the Seventh into Budapest’s most visited neighborhood. Szimpla is still going strong—it now hosts a popular farmers’ market and a film series—but many of the other makeshift ruin pubs have been replaced by more polished bar-restaurants that maintain the open-air, foundfurniture aesthetic but have added upscale elements like
exposed-filament lightbulbs and professional kitchens. Mazel Tov, one of the newest, is a kind of alfresco Israeli cafeteria with hanging vines and a beachy floor of white rocks. When I visited, it was buzzing with a crowd of short-haul tourists from Paris and Moscow who were sipping fruit-garlanded cocktails or sampling their first shakshuka (eggs poached in a sauce of tomatoes, peppers and onions). Jewish food—whether descended from the Mediterranean or the shtetl—is hugely popular right now in the Seventh District. Food trucks serve knishes stuffed, oddly, with lamb, and serious restaurants, like Macesz Bistro, have become famous for things like latkes and “Jewish egg” (chopped hard-boiled egg with duck fat and stewed onions). This interest in Jewish culture, however superficial, is a welcome development in Budapest, where anti-Semitism has long been an unfortunate reality. A taste for traif—nonkosher pleasures—runs deeper. Mangalica, the furry indigenous pig beloved for its marbled, almost beefy flesh, seems to be on every menu. Pesti Disznó, a stylish gastropub near the Opera House, serves it in a delicious rib-sticking stew or, less authentically, in a burger. Pinczi, a butcher shop near the Nyugati train station, offers a more straightforward lesson in Hungarian carnivorism. The servers don’t speak English and the diners may glower at you, but US$3 will buy you one of the city’s best meals: gamey, garlicky local kielbasas, schnitzel served with great pools of spicy mustard, devilish pickled peppers, giant disks of white bread and cold Soproni beer.
from left: Architects Adam Hatvani and Zoltán Erő at Főva Tér Station; a monument in City Park to the Hungarian Uprising of 1956.
Worshipping comfort food is an old tradition in Budapest. The local historian András Török traces it back to one man: the fin de siècle novelist Gyula Krúdy, who wrote passionately about the country’s gastronomic pleasures. “It would be only a slight exaggeration to say that today’s Hungarian cooking is his interpretation of the peasant cooking during his time,” Török declared in his surprisingly funny Budapest: A Critical Guide. More than a hundred Hungarian recipes are said to be named after Krúdy, who concerned himself with the simplest of foodstuffs: marrowbones, matzo balls, and especially cabbage. Consider a story from his collection Life Is a Dream, in which he compares the sound of cabbage being cored to that of cutting reeds. He then imagines men fishing in those reeds, catching little black loaches under the ice, tiny fishes that, he advises home cooks, “add a matchless flavor to cabbage soup.” I wanted a bowl of something just as soulful, so I got back on the metro at Kalvin Tér—which, of all Line 4’s stops, most resembles a space station—and crossed the Danube to the Buda side. This felt a bit like going back in time. The Castle District, the medieval heart of Buda, is grand and monumental, but it overlooks neighborhoods that are leafier and lovelier than most you’ll find in Pest. My destination was Fióka, a kind of neo-peasant restaurant that looks like an overgrown birdhouse, where I planned to indulge in Hungary’s greatest culinary hit. Goulash gets around. The dish has been a staple of Continental chefs since Escoffier. But Hungarian cuisine
is about more than goulash, and at Fióka its minor and major notes merge into music. I began with broiled marrowbones—served upright with toast, freshly shaved horseradish, and a spoon. Next came pörkölt. This hearty meat stew, generously rouged with paprika, is what most non-Hungarians think of when they think of goulash (which, here, is actually more like a soup). As much as Hungarians love to eat, their salaries put many restaurants out of reach. What everyone can afford is whiling away the evening with friends over drinks. I suggest taking a taxi to Fellini Római Kultúrbisztró, a gypsy-caravan-themed riverside bar 20 minutes south of the city center, where you can sit by the Danube in a faded candy-striped beach chair, drink a fröccs, and listen to a cabaret singer as the sun sets. Sinking your hands into the pebbly riverbank, you may feel as if you were nostalgic for this place before ever setting foot here. Perhaps more than in the other post-Soviet capitals, nostalgia is a currency in Budapest, and Laszlo Vidak could be called its chief financier. After the Iron Curtain fell, he began importing shoes to the city, and was struck by the intense demand for Western goods. “In the nineties, everyone wanted new things, foreign things,” he told me. “And as the borders opened up, many of our Hungarian traditions disappeared. Don’t ask me how, but I knew that this wouldn’t last.” In 2003, Vidak revived the sneaker company Tisza Cipő, once the country’s largest footwear brand, whose trademark “T” and geometric designs were instantly
from left: Heroes Square, next to City Park; pita and sauces at Mazel Tov; 360 Bar, a rooftop hangout
atop the Paris Department Store with some of the best views in Budapest.
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Sinking your hands into the pebbly riverbank, you may feel as if you were nostalgic for this place before ever setting foot here recognizable to any Hungarian over the age of 15. That same year, he also opened Menza, a restaurant in a tourist quarter off Pest’s grand, central boulevard, Andrássy Utca. The restaurant’s name and design referenced a kind of Socialist-era office canteen, while the menu was based on the type of food your Hungarian grandma might serve during a traditional Sunday lunch. In this swank, retro-chic space, I watched smartly dressed locals tuck into the peasant classics of their childhood. Following their lead, I kept it simple, ordering dishes like boiled beef and dumplings served alongside a white teapot of hot bouillon and a plate of sliced pickles. How ironic, I thought, to see the dreary rations of one generation become the leisurely indulgences of the next. “The concept was risky, but I think the reason it worked is that people didn’t want to lose what they grew up with,” Vidak said. As Budapest reinvents itself, he believes it’s only natural for it to keep looking to its rich past for inspiration. “Everything comes back. The only question for us is, What form will it take?” ABOVE: Nanushka, a boutique in the Fifth District.
The details HOTELS Aria Hotel The rooms at the glitzy five-star hotel showcase depictions of famous musicians, and the floors are dedicated to genres like jazz and opera. ariahotelbudapest.com; doubles from US$334. Brody House A bohemian hideaway with 11 rooms in a beautifully crumbling apartment building that also hosts artists’ salons. brodyhouse.com; doubles from US$78. Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace This glorious Art Nouveau property just opened a posh brasserie called Kollázs. fourseasons.com; doubles from US$446.
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RESTAUR ANTS & CAFeS Csendes Társ One of Budapest’s loveliest kertek (garden cafés) also runs a neighboring general store selling artisanal honey, jams, and handicrafts. csend.es; small plates US$2–$5. Espresso Embassy A chic coffee shop designed by one of the young architects who worked on Budapest’s new metro line. espressoembassy.hu. Fellini Római Kultúrbisztró This gypsy-caravan-themed beach bar on the Danube is an amazing place to end a summer evening with a fröccs (wine spritzer). felliniromai.hu. Fióka Enjoy classics like chicken paprikash, goulash and marrow
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bones at this sweet little restaurant on the leafy Buda side of the Danube. fiokaetterem.hu; mains US$8–$20. Macesz Bistro HungarianJewish cuisine, like pickled herring and latkes with duck breast, is popular. maceszbistro. hu; mains US$9–$21. Mazel Tov A popular bar in the old Jewish district. You’ll find Tel Aviv’s beachy vibe on the casual patio, which serves Levantine comfort food like falafel and shakshuka.mazeltov.hu; mains US$7–$16. Menza The restaurant’s name, meaning “canteen,” isn’t the only nod to the city’s past. It reimagines classics like grilled
duck liver. menzaetterem.hu; mains US$7–$17. Pesti Disznó Gastropub next to the Opera offers a rib-sticking stew made from mangalica, a pig native to Hungary. mangalica. pestidiszno.hu; mains US$9–$25. Pinczi The pickled peppers and gamey local sausages are served on paper plates with giant pools of mustard at this scruffy butcher shop. fb.com/pinczihus. Szimpla Kert The “ruin bar” trend started here when a group began selling cheap beer in a decrepit heritage building. Now the place—filled with found furniture and Communist-era artifacts—is always packed. szimpla.hu.
Fővám Tér Station, one of the architecturally arresting stops on the new Metro Line 4.
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wish you were here
John Steele / Yongbiji / south korea
Hidden countryside gems are often known only to locals—and photographers. Every country has a few of these scenic secrets, and Yongbiji reservoir, nestled deep in the farmland of Seosan, is one such treasure in the “Land of the Morning Calm.” Located less than two hours away from Seoul on the country’s western seaboard, Seosan is beloved by clued-in aesthetes for its beautiful coastline dotted with pine trees and chrysanthemums. While Yongbiji is picturesque year round, the reservoir really springs to life in spring when the colorful trees and blossoms reflect vibrantly on the still water. Whether you’re a photographer or not, don’t forget that oh-so-charming pavilion that adds a finishing touch to this typically Korean scene.
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