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TAILOR-MADE FAMILY HOLIDAYS WITH
LIGHTFOOT TRAVEL WHY USE LIGHTFOOT TRAVEL? INSPIRATION - We can arm you with new destination, activity and accommodation ideas that suit the ages and interests of you and your children, and design that holiday you’ve been dreaming of. THE NITTY GRITTY - Does the hotel have interconnecting rooms? Do they have kids’ meals for the fussiest of eaters? Are bottle sterilisers readily available?…Set off on your adventure knowing that everything has been considered and taken care of beforehand. PEACE OF MIND - With children in tow coordinating things like airport pickups, car seats and kid-friendly routings are all the more stress inducing. Rest assured that from the moment you step off that plane, your holiday will be seamlessly planned and worry-free. FLEXIBILITY - This is the key word when holidaying with kids! We know that the needs of your family are always subject to change, so we ensure that your itinerary is flexible and can be tailored to your requirements at a moment’s notice.
Give us a call to speak to a family holiday expert, stop by our office for a face-to-face travel consultation or visit our website for your travel inspiration. SINGAPORE +65 6438 4091 | HONG KONG +852 2815 0068 | DUBAI +971 4 455 8788 | LONDON +44 203 950 5105 www.lightfoottravel.com | info@lightfoottravel.com
CONTENTS T H E
H I G H L I G H T S
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A young Mongolian boy with his reindeer.
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DESERT ADVENTURE
FANTASY LAND
Jeremy Whittle and his family go on a road trip through Namibia.
Oliver Bennett and his son Bruno enjoy a boys’ own adventure in Iceland.
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THE BEST FAMILY BUCKET-LIST EXPERIENCES Family holidays that everyone will remember.
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FREE REIN
KYOTO WITH KIDS
FAMILY AFFAIR
Theodora Sutcliffe and her son ride across the Mongolian landscape.
Travel to Japan to find a city break that will thrill the whole family.
The Californian couple who turned their home into an award-winning vineyard.
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CONTENTS
8 Meet The Guest Editor Supermodel and mum Nadya Hutagalung takes the reins of our Family Issue and says why a life that includes travel is important for children.
12 Contributors Our writers say how you can make your family holiday go swimmingly.
14 City Slickers Whether your tot loves art, adventure or ice cream, we have their perfect holiday.
21 Time Out
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Why your next holiday needs to be a Super Sabbatical.
22 Crazy For Singapore The island city-state has lots to offer.
24 Tiny Tribes The Instagram families that are inspiring others to travel. .26
Mini Tour Guides The innovative scheme that is helping the youngsters of Caye Caulker.
28 Desert Adventure Jeremy Whittle and his family spy desert elephants, shipwrecks and luxury camps on this 4WD escape.
34 Fantasy Land A father/son adventure in the home of the Game of Thrones.
40 World’s Best Bucket List Family Experiences Holidays with the wow factor.
48 Model Mum UN Environment Goodwill Ambassador, Supermodel and mum Nadya
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Kids having fun in Cambodia.
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Hutagalung talks to us about her favourite family holiday.
50 Free Rein Theodora Sutcliff and her son go for a horseback ride across the wild Mongolian countryside. .
56 Walk This Way Jessica Palmer hits the trails in Tasmania with her family.
64 Wild Things If you want to get away from it all, take your family to these breathtaking wilderness hideaways.
66 Kyoto With Kids From bamboo forests to biscuit-
munching deer — why a trip to Japan will be fun for all the family.
72 Family Affair Justin Miller’s father bought an empty patch of land in California and turned it into vineyard.
76 Spice World Devorah Lev-Tov takes her son to a Kampot pepper farm in Cambodia.
81 Chef’s Guide To New Zealand Monica Galetti, gives us the lowdown on her second home.
82 Learn A New Skill… Become a husky trainer. And learn how to mush sled dogs too.
Relax by the sea amid the culture of Sicily THE BEACH AT VERDURA RESORT, SICILY
HOTEL DE ROME BERLIN HOTEL AMIGO BRUSSELS THE BALMORAL EDINBURGH HOTEL SAVOY FLORENCE VILLA KENNEDY FRANKFURT BROWN’S HOTEL LONDON THE CHARLES HOTEL MUNICH MASSERIA TORRE MAIZZA PUGLIA HOTEL DE LA VILLE ROME HOTEL DE RUSSIE ROME VERDURA RESORT SICILY HOTEL ASTORIA ST PETERSBURG FUTURE OPENINGS: THE WESTBUND HOTEL SHANGHAI VILLA IGIEA PALERMO ROCCOFORTEHOTELS.COM
MEET THE GUEST EDITOR
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upermodel, environmentalist and former host of Asia’s Next Top Model Nadya Hutagalung has spent most of her working life travelling the world. Now she is introducing her love of travel to her children. While she has made her home in Asia, she believes sustainable travel is the best form of education. “I feel like travel is needed so that we can appreciate what treasures the world and its vibrant communities have to share, to make connections with others and to discover that which brings us together as one humanity,” she says. Though as the co-founder of Let Elephants Be Elephants and an ambassador the Green School in Bali, Hutagalung also shows her children how they can not only enjoy, but help protect the world they are discovering. “Family travel for us will include as much learning, intense nature and giving back as possible,” she adds. For other families she encourages them to think the same way. “Learn about the local culture, support the local crafts people and most importantly leave as little evidence of you being there as possible,” Hutagalung adds. NADYA HUTAGALUNG
Nadya Hutagalung is a supermodel, environmentalist, TV star and mum of two. She is also an ambassador of the famed Green School in Bali.
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Nadya Hutagalung. Left: The supermodel and her family.
PHOTOGRAPHY: DAVY LINDGGAR, ADHUAN MEDIA
SOPHIE Senior Travel Designer Sophie has lived and worked in the Middle East, Europe and Asia. My favourite childhood holiday: “It was a road trip from Calgary to Vancouver. We went to the famous Calgary Stampede, biked through Banff National Park, canoed across Lake Louise and spent a few days hiking and zip-lining through the spectacular mountains in Whistler.”
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LY N N Travel designer Lynn has lived in Australia and Singapore. My favourite childhood holiday: “It was when I went skiing in Niseko, Japan, with 25 members of my extended family. I remember having lots of fun with my cousins who I didn’t get to see often. The snow was also unbelievable. It has since become an annual family tradition.”
E D I T O R I A L GUEST EDITOR Nadya Hutagalung EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Claire Turrell ART DIRECTOR Claire Lambert CONTRIBUTORS Beate Baldry, Oliver Bennett, Devorah Lev-Tov, Jessica Palmer, Theodora Sutcliffe, Jo Upcraft, Jeremy Whittle
MEET THE EXPERTS THE LIGHTFOOT TRAVEL TEAM REVEAL THEIR FAVOURITE CHILDHOOD HOLIDAYS @ L I G H T F O OT T R AV E L
M A R K E T I N G A N D A D V E R T I S I N G
KEIRA UK born Director of Sales Keira spent a year travelling the world, then settled in Asia. Now the new mum is helping her toddler and newborn baby clock up the air miles. My favourite childhood holiday: “Each summer, my parents would bundle my sister and I into the car and drive to France to take in the scenery and visit chateaux. But the highlight for me was always swimming in the lake and eating baguettes filled with fresh tomatoes and slabs of cheese.”
B E L I N DA Travel Designer Belinda has lived in Europe, Australasia and North America. My favourite childhood holiday: “It was when I was eight years old and we went on a six-week road trip through Australia’s Red Centre. I learned about the land, the aboriginal people, the native flora and fauna, and loved every minute.”
M AT T Head of Projects Matt has worked and lived in Europe and the Middle East. My favourite childhood holiday: “I remember visiting Croatia with my family. We went for the beach, but I was enchanted by the people, culture and food.” Lightfoot Travel co-founder and father of two Simon spent most of his childhood in Sri Lanka. My favourite childhood holiday: “I remember going for long drives in my father’s Land Rover all over the country. I was transfixed by the explosion of culture and wildlife that I saw on the side of the road. One of my favourite places was a tea estate near Bandarewela. We would go for long walks through the eucalyptus forests and play croquet on the lawn with tea and crumpets.” Travel By Lightfoot | www.travelbylightfoot.com
DIGITAL MARKETING MANAGER Clarissa Loucao
L I G H T F O O T T R A V E L FOUNDER AND MANAGING DIRECTOR Simon Cameron CO-FOUNDER AND DIRECTOR Nico Heath CO-FOUNDER AND DIRECTOR Lucy Jackson Walsh
W I N N E R : T R AV E L M E D I A O F T H E Y E A R 2 0 1 7
SIMON
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MARKETING MANAGER Poppy Whitbread
LIGHTFOOT TRAVEL OFFICES: SINGAPORE (+65 6438 4091) DUBAI (+971 4 455 8788), HONG KONG (+852 2815 0068), LONDON (+ +44 203 950 5105) Visit www.lightfoottravel.com Printed by Naili Print Media Pte Ltd, Singapore. For advertising enquiries contact info@lightfoottravel.com Reproduction in whole or part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Cover image: Father and son at work and play in Thailand. Photography: Getty Images
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Contributors
THE WRITERS IN THIS ISSUE REVEAL HOW YOU CAN MAKE YOUR FAMILY HOLIDAY GO SWIMMINGLY
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D EVO R A H L EV-TOV
New York Times, Nat Geo and Travel + Leisure writer Devorah Lev-Tov is a mum of one. My top tip for travelling with kids: “It’s helpful if your child gets used to napping on the go — in the stroller, carrier or car seat — so you can visit that boring for kids museum, while they are asleep.”
JEREMY WHITTLE
Jeremy Whittle contributes to The Guardian, The Times and Men’s Health. My top tip for travelling with kids: “Many of our holidays have been road trips — Namibia, the Four Corners in the U.S.A, Iceland — during which a charged up portable iPad was often our best friend. Failing that, other quick ways to occupy my daughter included riding shotgun alongside the driver, choosing the music and studying the map or SatNav.”
T H EO D O R A SU TC L I F F E
The Guardian contributor Theodora Sutcliffe and her son Zac planned to take a gap year, four years later the adventurous twosome were still travelling the world. My top tip for travelling with kids: “Don’t overplan. Leave plenty of time for loafing, chilling out and lazing on the beach.”
J E SS I CA PA L M E R
O L I V E R B E N N ET T Father of two Oliver Bennett is a writer for The Guardian and Independent. My top tip for travelling with kids: “To help them remember their travels, ensure they have meaningful contacts with local people — a talk with the B&B owners, perhaps, or a local shop owner. These kinds of experiences are very memorable for children.”
Writer Jessica Palmer is the founder of the family travel blog Travel With Jess. She shows how you can still have an adventure when you’re travelling with kids. My top tip for travelling with kids: “Always keep a biscuit or two in your bag. Even if you have just eaten a three-course meal and you are only heading out for 40 minutes, someone will announce they are starving or will need distracting 10 minutes after you leave.”
C H I VA- S O M P R E S E N TS
FRESH LOOK
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AWARD-WINNING CHIVA-SOM INTERNATIONAL HEALTH RESORT IS SET TO WOW GUESTS ONCE MORE
hiva-Som in Hua Hin, Thailand, is ready to celebrate its 25th anniversary in style following a luxe makeover. This unique retreat, which is renowned for boosting mind, body and spirit still offers everything that you love, but so much more. Leave your luggage in one of the calming suites decorated in teak, Thai silk and bamboo. Then relax on your private balcony or terrace, or take a tour of the lush resort and begin your own wellness journey. Whether you want to burn calories in the state-of-the-art fitness centre,
check out the new dance and Pilates studios or take to the famed Black Mountain golf course with Chiva-Som’s Total Golf Enhancement retreat, you're sure to find an activity to suit you. Once you’ve worked out, Chiva-Som’s team of trainers and therapists can help you stretch out in facilities such as the new Re-functional Studio that features the innovative Neurac Room, which offers suspension training so you don’t put stress on your joints. Or you can visit the new glass-roofed Bathing Pavilion, which stars a new hydrotherapy pool. Then you should book into one of the treatment rooms found in the Spa and
Niranlada Medi-Spa. Enjoy therapies such as the famed Crystal and Quantum Massage, which eases achy muscles and gives you an energy boost, or enjoy the latest in aesthetic treatments such as the Jetpeel facial for radiant skin. Hungry? Treat your tastebuds to Chiva-Som’s Wellness Cuisine. While it looks decadent, you don’t have to worry, because the chefs have done all the calorie counting for you. Now you can enjoy those healthy dishes in the new indoor, outdoor Taste of Siam restaurant, which offers uninterrupted sea views come rain or shine. Now that’s worth celebrating, isn’t it?
Clockwise from top: Get away from it all in a glamorous Thai Pavilion Suite. Relax in a chic Champaka Suite. Chiva-Som's Wellness Cuisine. Discover Traditional Thai medicine.
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# TA K E M E H E R E —
CITY SLICKERS Who says that kids can’t enjoy a city break? Just take your tots along to the Four Seasons Hong Kong. Around each corner of the hotel there seems to be another surprise from a menu in the restaurant that folds up like a paper fortune teller, to tiny slippers and robes in the bedroom. And then there are even sweet treats that would make adults happy, such as milk and cookies left in their suite at bedtime and homemade gelato by the infinity pool.
PHOTOGRAPHY: FOUR SEASONS HONG KONG
We all scream for ice cream at Four Seasons Hong Kong.
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# TA K E M E H E R E —
SMALL EXPLORERS The new tropical beach hideaway that is Rosewood Phuket hasn’t forgotten about its youngest guests. It has created a zone that is just for them. At the Rosewood Explorers Club they can have fun in the sun, making a splash in the kids’ pool, or pottering around in its organic garden. If they want to keep their cool, they can go into the fun clubhouse where they’ll find a performance stage, crafting area and climbing wall. Rosewood Phuket — a place for kids to grow.
PHOTOGRAPHY: ANGAMA MARA
# TA K E M E H E R E —
From discovering the legend of Tippoo’s Tiger at the V&A in London to visiting a series of Sleeping Beauty paintings in a fairy-tale castle, Lightfoot Travel can arrange for your tot to join a bespoke mini art tour in a renowned gallery in the UK. At the end of the masterclass, they can recreate their favourite painting from the tour to go on their bedroom wall. A young boy snaps a masterpiece.
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PHOTOGRAPHY: SHUTTERSTOCK
CUTE CONNOISSEURS
NEW ZEALAND W I N E ,
D I N E ,
E X P L O R E . . .
New Zealand wins our award for the best all-around destination. From families and honeymooners to groups of friends, give us a call to start planning your next adventure now.
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ON THE MAP W H A T ’ S
H O T
N O W
TIME OUT PHOTOGRAPHY: SHUTTERSTOCK
COPY THE LATEST TREND AND BOOK A SUPER SABBATICAL If you thought that a gap year involved schlepping around youth hostels in tie-dye shirts think again. Burntout execs are switching off their laptops and taking a mega-break filled with out-of-this-world adventures. Super sabbaticals can last from six weeks to six months, but they each feature learning experiences – whether it’s taking rodeo lessons in the USA or diving with humpback whales in Australia. Families are getting in on the act too with parents choosing bonding over company budgets. Clear your diary now. Saddle up and perfect an age old skill.
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Clockwise from left: ArtScience Museum. Jewel Changi Airport. Eggs The English House style. The Monarchy. Tjong Bahru Bakery Safari cafe. Gardens by the Bay. Six Senses Maxwell.
ON THE MAP —
CRAZY FOR SINGAPORE Singapore has come a long way since Sir Stamford Raffles first set foot on its shores 200 years ago. But the island state, where Lightfoot Travel launched its first office, isn’t ready to rest on its laurels — not even after launching the world’s longest flight and starring in the biggest Hollywood blockbuster last year. In 2019, Singapore saw the launch of a new airport, complete with the world’s tallest indoor waterfall; the relaunch of one of the world’s most famous hotels after a multi-million dollar renovation; outof-this-world exhibitions, as well as well as a cornucopia of new restaurants owned by Michelin-star chefs. The sparkler in Singapore’s travel crown is Jewel Changi Airport that links Terminal 1, 2 and 3 with a lush jungle of over 2,000 trees. Visitors are able to enjoy walks through forest trails, spy the 40-metre high Rain Vortex waterfall and get lost in a maze.
You’ll feel hungry after all of those adventures so you will need to visit one of the new restaurants in the city — The English House by Marco Pierre White or BBR by Alain Ducasse and La Dame Pic by Sophie-Ann Pic found at Raffles Hotel. If you want to party like a Crazy Rich Asian then visit The Monarchy cocktail bar owned by the team behind the Formula 1 party zone that is The Podium Lounge. Enjoy cocktails in teacups and tunes that make people want to kick off their heels — which they usually do. Raffles is undoubtedly the perfect place to rest your head, but the new Six Senses Maxwell also gives you a little Singaporean flare with designer style. Celebrity designer Jacques Garcia has turned a row of shophouses into a luxury hotel with a heritage chic-style makeover. Don’t leave without enjoying an ice-cream sandwich from the Six Senses’ trishaw uncle. When in Singapore…
LITTLE LIG HTFOOTERS
Enjoy a jungle breakfast with the orangutans at Singapore zoo. 22
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PHOTOGRAPHY: MARINA BAY SANDS, SIX SENSES MAXWELL, TIONG BAHRU BAKERY, THE MONARCHY
THE LITTLE RED DOT IS CELEBRATING ITS BICENTENNIAL IN STYLE
A Timeless Sanctuary
vakkarumaldives.com
ON THE MAP —
TINY TRIBES
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First we had the fashion influencers, then we had fitspo posts, now we have Instagram families… These tiny tribes are lighting up our Instagram feeds with fresh-faced kids in tropical places. While you don’t get to hear the ‘are we nearly there yet?’ complaints or see a meltdown at the airport when someone realises that they’ve left their Jellycat bunny at home. What you do see is inspiration. And possibilities. There’s @captainandthegypsykid in Mexico, @thebuckelistfamily in Nepal and @courtneyadamo and her five children snapped on their gap year before they settled in Bryon Bay. So get your kids to put on their rucksacks and tell them that they are about to go on a great adventure.
PHOTOGRAPHY: @CAPTAINANDTHEGYPSYKID, @COURTNEYADAMO @THEBUCKETLISTFAMILY
Clockwise from top left: @ captainandthegypsykid at Amanwella in Sri Lanka. @ captainandthegypsykid discovering Mexico. Courtney Adamo’s family discovering Byron Bay in Australia. The Adamo family sightseeing in Positano, Italy. The Bucket-List Family on safari in Kenya. The smaller members of the BucketLIst Family making new friends.
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MAGIC MOMENTS
FOR A TRULY SPECIAL HOLIDAY VISIT INTERCONTINENTAL MALDIVES MAAMUNAGAU RESORT
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rom the moment you touch down in the seaplane at the private island hideaway that is the InterContinental Maldives Maamunagau Resort, you will be treated to a holiday filled with surprises. Your butler will take you to your chosen luxury Villa or Residence. This could be a tropical Beach Villa, an Overwater Villa that overlooks the reef or a two-storey Lagoon Villa, which is a first in the Maldives and gives you the chance to wake to a jawdropping view of the turquoise water. During the day you can explore the crystal-clear water, which is home to manta rays, sting rays and dolphins. Discover this UNESCO biosphere reserve by SUP, Seabob, yacht, or you can go under the waves and enjoy a scuba diving trip. If you want to do something more relaxing, you can visit the overwater AVI Spa that is inspired by nature. Here you can enjoy a pampering treatment or take part in a serene yoga session. Or if you are just tempted to relax around the pool, check out The Retreat, an adults-only enclave where you can enjoy afternoon tea served by a tea sommelier, or wine and cheese as the sun goes down. Younger members of the family can visit their own private club — Planet Trekkers. Tots can take part in mini expeditions, storytelling sessions,
glamping trips and they can even adopt a manta, as the resort supports the Manta Trust Foundation. If you are feeling hungry after all these activities, there is a plethora of dining experiences to enjoy. There’s the organic-inspired Café Umi; the surf to table Fish Market; and the towering Lighthouse that serves up platters of Spanish tapas and offers 360-degree views of the Indian Ocean. If that’s not enough, there’s also the Dining by Design offerings, which give you the chance to dine on a private beach or have a chef cook for you in your suite. Didn’t we say it was magical? Now it’s up to you to decide which moments you want to experience.
Clockwise from top: The Overwater Villas. A manta ray navigating the reef. A luxurious Beach Villa. The deck of an Overwater Villa.
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ON THE MAP —
MINI TOUR GUIDES The tiny island of Caye Caulker in Belize, is at the forefront of an innovative new scheme, which is helping its youngest islanders. The island may be beautiful to look at, but it’s tough to live upon. Traditionally children had to leave the island to go to school or give up on education altogether, which made it difficult for them to find jobs when they graduated. In 2008, the island saw the launch of its first school, Ocean Academy. The majority of its costs are covered by fundraising. However, rather than hold bake sales to boost its funds, the school recently created a scheme that would not only inspire the visitors who came to their island, but help prepare students for the future. As the Great Blue Hole dive site is on their doorstep, many islanders choose tourism as a career. So the school launched the ‘With Purpose’ schemes — student-led social enterprises that would give visitors an insider’s view of the island and boost
the confidence of its students. One such scheme is Bike With Purpose, where the teenage guides take visitors on a cycling tour of Caye Caulker. Initially the children hired rusty bikes from local supermarkets, to help them run their trips, but when the not-for-profit travel company Planeterra heard about the scheme it decided to buy new bikes for the students and advertise the trips to its guests. During each trip tourists can expect to see such highlights as seahorse reserves, local homes and a tour of the school. The school has now added Bike With Purpose to its curriculum. “We run workshops on communication skills, bike repairs, island history and ecology. Students also brainstorm what will make their trip unique and interesting to visitors,” says the school’s co-founder Joni Miller. “Visitors have told us that Bike With Purpose was the highlight of their trip and that is rewarding to hear.”
Clockwise from above: Caye Caulker. The Great Blue Hole. One of the teen tour guides. Enjoy the slow life in Belize.
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PHOTOGRAPHY: BIKE WITH PURPOSE, SHUTTERSTOCK
AN ISLAND SCHOOL’S NEW SCHEME THAT HELPS KIDS PREPARE FOR THE FUTURE
ADVENTURE —
DESERT ADVENTURE JEREMY WHITTLE AND HIS FAMILY GO ON A ROAD TRIP WITH A DIFFERENCE D E S T I N AT I O N : NAMIBIA
L O C AT I O N : E TO S H A N AT I O N A L PA R K
The Namib desert.
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T
he African sun set over the vast savannah of Etosha national park, in northern Namibia… giraffe, zebra and wildebeest, silhouetted against the blazing horizon. One more photo stop to capture the staggering beauty of this ancient land, we all agreed, as we drove back on deserted dirt roads towards the park gates. It was a photo stop too many. We were too late. The gates to a vast wilderness teeming with wild animals, including predatorial lions and scavenging hyenas, were already locked. We sat stranded inside the park, in our dusty, but trusty Land Rover, as dusk settled around us. My seven-year-old daughter Esme peered into the gathering gloom. “Dad,” she said, “I know there are lions outside, but I really need the bathroom.” Namibia is a magical, wild and challenging place, of incredible landscapes, vast skies and seemingly endless dirt roads. It’s remote and hard to get to, but it’s also unique and very well worth the effort. Bordering South Africa, Angola and Botswana, and with a misty and mysterious coastline overlooked by towering dunes, the Skeleton Coast — which has proved a watery grave to many ships — can sometimes feel like the end of the earth.
Clockwise from top left: The wilds of Namibia. The famed desert elephants. Wilderness camp. Meerkats on alert. A Himba woman's incredible ochre-covered locks. Elephant crossing.
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EXCLUSIVE MEET THE LION WHISPERER IN NAMIBIA
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The desert elephants [were] playfully spraying themselves and each other with water from a village waterhole
Editor’s Note “MY LET ELEPHANTS BE ELEPHANTS CO-FOUNDER DR TAMMIE MATSON RUNS A SAFARI COMPANY IN NAMIBIA. THE SHOTS SHE SHARES ALWAYS MAKE ME WANT TO PACK MY BAGS AND BOOTS AND HEAD OUT THE DOOR.”
PHOTOGRAPHY: DEIDRE ROONEY, SHUTTERSTOCK
N A D YA H U TA G A L U N G
Our 10-day circular road trip covered the capital Windhoek, the southern desert, Swakopmund and the Skeleton Coast, the Brandberg Mountains and the primeval Etosha Pan. Our guides had created a self-driving tour that combined luxury lodges with long wine lists and spectacular pools, with wild camping and simple and remote hotels. Driving in Namibia, mainly on dirt roads and in high temperatures, is tiring. Gravel roads with steep pitches and unnerving cambers have to be treated with respect. The first sighting of an overturned 4WD was enough to slow our speeds. A fully charged DVD player proved vital when it came to entertaining the smallest passenger. And backto-back videos kept cries of ‘are we nearly there yet?’ at bay. Our first drive, from Windhoek to the Wolwedans Dune Camp, on the edge of the world’s oldest desert, the Namib, took an epic seven hours. We broke the journey at a junction in the middle of nowhere called Solitaire, where we found a shop, garage, motel and bakery, serving up a renowned apple strudel. We sat in the garden, sipping iced tea as my daughter, Esme, devoured the pastry. Wolwedans was, in happier times, a frequent haunt of Brad Pit and Angelina Jolie. It is possibly the most romantic place I have every stayed. Our accommodation was described simply as tents but these were in fact canvas boutique en-suite hotel rooms, ringed by mountains, high on rust red dunes, overlooking a vast savannah.
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Before dinner, our guide Ivan took us on a sunset drive into the dunes. He set up a pop-up bar of cold beers and snacks. Meanwhile, Esme exhausted herself, running up and down the sandy slopes and hunting for porcupine quills. Our three-course, silver service, candlelit dinner, with exhaustive wine list, was served in a nearby tented restaurant, run by students from the Wolwedans cookery school. We nodded off to the sound of springboks dining on the undergrowth near our tents. Our next stop, Swakopmund, was another long and dusty day’s drive away. This elegant colonial town is sited on the Atlantic coast and remains popular with both Namibian and German tourists, who, more than 120 years after it was founded as a German colony, still have strong connections to the area. When the swirling fog rolls in and envelopes the town, and the sea becomes indistinguishable from the shifting sands, it is particularly atmospheric. Here and there, just offshore, the rusted remains of unsalvaged ships, lost in storms, list mournfully in the waves. The large swimming pool beckoned at the end of the next day’s sweaty and gruelling drive to the campsite in the Brandberg Mountains, but no sooner had we arrived, than we were out on the road again, in pursuit of desert elephants. Namibia is the home of desert elephants, who have adapted to the conditions by developing
longer legs and broader feet to cope with covering lengthy distances in search of water. We bumped down a dusty track until Esme screeched in delight as the herd came into view. They stood luxuriating in an impromptu shower, playfully spraying themselves and each other with water from a village waterhole. We watched for a long time, taking in the most entrancing water fight I have ever seen. We slept that night in the Land Rover’s rooftop tent, which was comfortable enough, although the eerie noises of the African night, followed by a frequent whispered ‘Dad! Wake Up! Did you hear that…?!’ ensured a slow start the next day. The further north we drove, the more mountainous the landscape became. After an overnight stop at the Grootberg Lodge, overlooking the Klip River valley, we woke up to the news that two lions had been in the grounds during the night and had attacked a horse, only a few yards from where we had eaten dinner the previous evening. Undaunted, we headed on further into the wilderness on rock strewn roads to a remote Himba village. The smiling semi nomadic Himba women who greeted us, hair plastered with butter
and ochre and in elaborate weaves, seemed as fascinated in us, our watches, jewellery and cameras, as we were in them. Two thousand miles after leaving Windhoek, we finally arrived at Etosha National Park. During our two-day stay we watched a lioness clear a watering hole in seconds as she strolled over for a drink, and a desert elephant, ears flapping, eyeball us, as we came face to face on a lonely dirt road. We also swam in our wilderness lodge’s huge pool, drank cocktails on the terrace and — happily — found more than serviceable wifi and phone signals. That was how, in that ancient landscape, modern technology saved me from taking my daughter for a bathroom break in the bushes, under the gaze of lions and hyenas. A quick phone call and five minutes later, the locked gates of Etosha National Park swung open, allowing us to beat a hasty retreat from any hungry predators.
Clockwise from left: A seal colony on the Skeleton Coast. Overlooking Sandwich Bay in the Namib Desrt. Himba boys in a local village.
GETTING THERE For more information on travelling to Namibia email a Lightfoot Travel Designer at info@lightfoottravel.com
ESCAPE TO AFRICA Three new reasons to go wild for this beautiful continent
LEKKERWATER BEACH LODGE
SOSSUSVLEI DESERT LODGE
SINGITA KWITONDA LODGE
The site of former President FW de Klerk’s
Sossusvlei Desert Lodge, Namibia, is about
Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda will soon be
summer retreat in South Africa has now been
to undergo a makeover, which will turn the
home to the latest Singita property – Kwitonda
turned into Lekkerwater Beach Lodge. It’s set in
20-year-old lodge into a designer retreat. Each
Lodge. Your only neighbours will be 320 mountain
De Hoop Nature Reserve, which offers some of
suite will feature a skylight so you can embrace
gorillas. Cameras at the ready!
the best whale-watching on the planet.
the continent's only Dark Sky Reserve.
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The semi-nomadic Himba [people] who greeted us seemed as fascinated in us as we were in them
ADVENTURE —
FANTASY LAND OLIVER BENNETT AND HIS SON BRUNO DISCOVER THE LAND THAT STARRED IN THE GAME OF THRONES D E S T I N AT I O N : ICELAND
L O C AT I O N : R E Y K J AV I K
A colourful village near the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.
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EXCLUSIVE SNOWMOBILE ACROSS A GAME OF THRONES SET
Clockwise from above: Bruno making a splash in the Reykjadalur Valley hot spring. Get away from it all in Iceland. Bruno on a hike through Reykjadalur Valley.
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asalt fields, snow dusted mountains and a gunmetal sea… it was clear that our adventure had already started. My son Bruno, 15, and I had left Iceland’s Keflavík International Airport, picked up a hire car, and drove straight into what appeared to be an epic fantasy novel. The asphalt road that stretched out in front of us snaked its way through a mythical landscape that was filled with mountains, volcanoes and glaciers and populated by people who looked like Thor. This really was the place of legends. And a quick flick through the guide book showed that the country was filled with adventures too — perfect for our first ever father and son bonding trip. Within 30 minutes we mustered in Reykjavik, the most northerly capital city in the world. Unlike other major capitals, this was a city free of skyscrapers… in their place were rows of colourful houses topped by corrugated iron roofs. Bruno and I walked along Laugavegur, Reykjavik’s main shopping street, which was selling cups of steaming artisan coffee to tourists, as well as an Icelandic sweater or two. We then strolled on to see the city’s most famous sight, the rocket-like Hallgrímskirkja church that looks as if it had been plucked straight out of Asgard. But as striking as the city was, we knew that the main attraction for Reykjavik was the raw nature on its outskirts. So we jumped back into the car and set off along the famed Route 1 — the road that tracks around Iceland and passes Mount Esja, Reykjavik’s brooding backdrop. Bruno dubbed this 900-metre high mountain ‘tiramisu’ for its sugarlike snow dusting.
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It was a country filled with adventures — perfect for our father and son bonding trip
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PHOTOGRAPHY: OLIVER BENNETT AND SHUTTERSTOCK
Right: A seal sunning himself on a rock at the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. Below: Take a leap and enjoy an adrenalin-filled adventure at the Hvìtá River.
We felt excited from the moment we arrived. As two Londoners, we loved the real sense of open space. As Iceland has few trees and very few high buildings, you’re always looking at the distance which is itself relaxing. As we got more remote and Reykjavik became merely a blip in the rear view mirror, the road dropped into a raw two-laner and followed fiercer shores. Stark hills dribbled with waterfalls while that chilly sea glowered on the other side. We passed small settlements, crossed glacial rivers, by-passed mountains and took in Iceland’s everpresent long horizons. Along the way we snacked on what we decided was Iceland’s real national dish, the hot dog. We found it being served at every petrol station, and it was reasonably priced and bearable. At a little fishing town called Rif in the Snæfellnes Peninsula we stayed over. We took
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Down the stream we gambolled, our raft hurtling through the rocky white water
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glorious walks in redundant, blown-out volcanoes, strolled through old ash fields, and signed up for a short (guided) stroll on a glacier near the big white cap of the Snæfellsjökull volcano, known as the ‘crown of Iceland’. We then drove down to nearby Ólafsvík harbour to go whale watching. While everyone shivered in the bracing air, the deck hands scouted the sea. Just as everyone was getting twitchy the skipper shouted “Sperm whale at nine o’clock” and after that point eight more appeared. But the boat was rolling and after a while we retired below as we felt cold and nauseous. It was amazing to see the whales, but after three hours out at sea it was good to return to shore. After just one day in Iceland we were already getting a serious adrenalin fix — but the best was yet to come. We headed back towards Reykjavik, taking a different inland route, to follow the route of a tour in Iceland called the ‘Golden Circle’, which starts in Thningvellir National Park. Here the tectonic plates part — as if two cliffs are facing off against each other — and where, if you’re interested in Game of Thrones, the civil war for the Iron Throne of the Seven Kingdoms takes place. This is somewhere that Bruno wanted to go and I let him lead me on a special Game of Thrones' walk. It’s a dramatic, elemental place, with that rocky rift like a giant scar in the landscape. Bruno and I walked, having the odd mock-
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Above: Gullfoss Waterfall. Below: Playing catch with lava at the Snæfellnes Peninsula.
GoT fight in the rocks and then, as if Thingvellir wasn’t geologically exciting enough, headed a few miles up the road to Strokkur geyser, a field full of bubbling springs with a centrepiece that spouts once every 10 minutes or so. Around it tourists gathered, waiting for that perfect photographic moment — only to be hit by hot spray. Travelling with Bruno was a treat. We did a lot of talking — not all laddish ‘banter’ either. Bruno has always been a really engaged boy, but as we were walking up the mountainside he impressed me with his interest and knowledge of geography — and his willingness to talk to other travellers.
The other key sight of the Golden Circle is the equally-awesome gushing waterfall Gullfoss, and as it turned out, this plume heralded our holiday’s great adventure: rafting on the very same river as the falls, the Hvìtà. We drove downstream of Gullfoss to where the river was merely fast rather than a torrent, and found our river rafting hosts: a rustic hut with tea, snacks and laid-back guides. Bruno and I sat awhile, waiting for our slot. Then we were called, and our small group took in a somewhat scary, but amusing safety announcement before donning a wetsuit, grabbing a paddle and heading to a rickety old school bus. Ten raucous and bumpy minutes later we decamped at the river and climbed into large ribs, which the guides pushed to the Hvítá River. “Keep your limbs inside the boat,” shouted the guide over the noise of the water. “And try not to fall out — we’ll have to go back for you and it’s a real drag.” We set off and soon found out — this water was cold. Freezing, milky-coloured snow-melt, fresh from the mountains. Down the stream we gambolled, our raft hurtling through rocky white water, past basalt outcrops, through gorges, over pumping rapids and between pools of water. At first Bruno was exhilarated. He whooped as we went over the first lot of rapids. Later on, he got a bit cold and his teeth were chattering. I had to lend him my gloves. But he still loved it. “The scenery is amazing Dad,” he said. An hour or two later we turned into the home straight, and there we risked it all and jumped into the water, yelling with joy. Then, with teeth still chattering, we clambered back onto the old bus to head back to the ranch. Back there we grabbed a cup of tea, peeled off those sodden wetsuits, then we warmed up in with a traditional sauna. It was exhilarating stuff. I might not have done the river rafting by myself, but as Bruno was so keen we added it to our boys’ own adventure. I’m so glad I did as it was amazing. After the rafting, replete with that inner glow that comes after immersion in cold water, we set
off down the road, through yet more otherworldly landscapes towards South Iceland, joining the Route 1 eastward in full Top Gear glory: sea to one side, mountains on the other. We stopped at the Seljavallalaug swimming pool: the first such pool in Iceland, fed by hot emerald-green water fresh from the bowels of the earth. We hopped in to the piping-38 degree pool and swam beneath an amphitheatre of mountains, where summer snow made great piebald patches on the greyblack basalt. After a cosy night’s sleep we headed to see the great hulking form of Sólheimajökull glacier; retreating slowly from the sea. Then as a leaving gift to ourselves, we went for a wallow in the famous Blue Lagoon, possibly the world’s most famous swimming pool, probably the best preparation for a flight in the world. We eased our adventure-battered bodies into the steaming water, covered ourselves in the silica mud and gazed out over the dramatic black lava fields. “I’ve ticked off so many things on my bucket list now,” said Bruno.
GETTING THERE For more information on travelling to Iceland email a Lightfoot Travel Designer at info@lightfoottravel.com
A sperm whale dives beneath the waves in Iceland.
MOVIE LO CATIONS TO LOVE See the big screen come to life on holiday
HARRY POTTER
JURASSIC PARK
THE LION KING
Mini muggles should hot foot it to London to
The Jurassic Park juggernaut isn’t slowing
Pride Rock may have been created by an artist at a studio in California, but when the Disney
see magical backdrops from the Harry Potter
down. Another movie is scheduled for 2021.
movies. Look out Gringotts bank, platform 9¾
If you have any dino fans at home make sure
team was looking for inspiration they flew to
at Charing Cross then walk through Hogwarts'
your next holiday is Hawaii. You can go trekking,
Kenya. A trip to the home of Simba and Nala is
Great Hall at the famous Harry Potter Studio.
snorkelling or ride over a volcano in a helicopter.
sure to blow your kids away.
SHARE BREAKFAST WITH GIRAFFES If you go down to the breakfast table today, you’re sure to be in for a big surprise. For if you take a seat near the window at the Giraffe Manor in Kenya, you’ll be sharing breakfast with one of its four-legged residents. Each morning, the hotel’s cheeky giraffes will pop their heads through the window to grab a snack.
WORLD'S BEST —
BUCKET-LIST FAMILY EXPERIENCES TRIPS FOR LITTLE PEOPLE WHO WANT BIG ADVENTURES
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CANOE ALONG THE ZAMBEZI Let your tween feel like an explorer of old by taking a canoeing trip along the upper Zambezi River in Zambia. Here they will be able to spy the exotic wildlife as they paddle along the waterway and follow in the footsteps of Livingstone and pals. Younger kids can see the same sights from the comfort of one of the river boats.
TAKE A HOT AIR BALLOON RIDE ACROSS AFRICA
Africa
Get a bird’s eye view of Africa by enjoying a hot air balloon ride across the Masai Mara. During the 60-minute flight you will have the chance to float above the plains, forest and rivers of Kenya. If you are lucky you might be able to spot hippos and crocodiles en-route before you take a 4WD ride back to the Governors Camp.
MEET MEERKATS IN BOTSWANA If anything is going to tear you away from Jack’s Camp glampsite in Botswana, it’s knowing that there’s a meerkat family on your doorstep. When the sun comes up, so do the meerkats and they will clamber to the top of their sandy burrow to look out for potential predators. When you arrive, don’t be surprised if they clamber on top of you too to get a better vantage point.
TRACK LIONS IN THE BUSH The Lion King fans should visit Loisaba Tented Camp in Kenya. Here they can join one of the rangers on an expedition into the bush and help track the lions. The lions have been fitted with radio collars, so kids can help the ranger check on the progress of the creatures who have made the park their home. Travel By Lightfoot | www.travelbylightfoot.com
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MEET A SHERPA SWIM WITH TURTLES
Hands up if you want to swim with turtles! Kids staying at Amanpulo in the Philippines can join the scuba team for a snorkelling trip around the house reef where they can feed the fish then swim with the resident sea turtles. The resort has its own turtle hatchery. More than 1,900 turtle eggs were laid on the beach in 2018. You can ask the team to call you when the eggs hatch so you can watch the baby turtles rush to the ocean.
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Your kids might not be able to hike to the top of Everest, but if they head to Nepal they can enjoy dinner with a real-life Sherpa who has. He or she will be able to entertain them with exciting stories about their climbs and maybe inspire your tot to live a life of adventure when they are older.
TAKE A MASTERCLASS WITH A PRO SKATEBOARDER If your kids seem to spend more time on wheels than they do walking, take them to The Hot Spot at Amanpuri in Phuket. The kids’ club features a new skateboarding half-pipe and your children will be able to practise their moves on custom-built skateboards. But what will make your kids really excited is that skating pros from California will be there to show them tips and tricks.
Asia JOIN A PIRATE BOAT If you thought that Captain Jack Sparrow had some swashbuckling adventures, you haven’t set foot on the Pirate Cruise at One&Only Reethi Rah. Children can set sail on this pirate boat that can be found in the Maldives. They will have the chance to make their own pirate accessories and then go on a treasure hunt. Shiver me timbers.
TREK WITH ELEPHANTS For a jungle trek with a difference, go for a stroll with a herd of elephants. Take a short boat ride to the elephants’ home, then get ready to feed them bananas and give them a bath in the river. You can then join them on a walk through the forest and even take a trip to a waterfall. Travel By Lightfoot | www.travelbylightfoot.com
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KAYAK WITH OTTERS Who needs to kayak with orcas in Canada when you can be paddling with sea otters in California? These cuddly characters can be found sunning themselves in Morro Bay. They wrap themselves up in kelp to make sure that they can kick back and relax without having to worry about floating away.
VISIT MACCHU PICHU Just because you have kids doesn’t mean that you can’t go on an awfully big adventure. Take them to the land of the Incas and enjoy a trek in Peru. Lightfoot Travel can arrange for you and your family to enjoy a leisurely trek between luxurious mountain lodges and even take a trip to see Paddington's cousins — the spectacled bears of Peru.
Americas
Ride North America’s longest zipline, the Sasquatch, through the picturesque ski resort of Whistler. Along the way kids can learn about Canada’s ecology and wildlife before they go for an adrenalin-filled twokilometre ride through the treetops. You can also ride the zipline at night and enjoy a thrilling ride under the stars.
GO HORSEBACK RIDING IN ECUADOR Learn to work a lasso like a chagra cowboy then saddle up and ride out across the Ecuadorian countryside. Kids at Hacienda Zuleta can help round up the ranch’s herd of 40 horses, or ride out to a waterfall or through local villages. And they can finish their day munching delicious S’mores around a bonfire.
GO ZIPLINING IN WHISTLER
SPY GIANT TORTOISES IN THE GALAPAGOS If your kids spend most of their time glued to their TV screen watching Animal Planet, take them to the Galapagos. Here they can see some of planet Earth’s most unique creatures including blue-footed boobies and giant tortoises. Mum and dad will be pretty impressed too.
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ENJOY A REINDEER RIDE To see smiles a mile wide, book a reindeer adventure in Lapland. During the winter months, kids meet the real Rudolf, Donner or Blitzen and join them on a sleigh ride across the snow. It will be mugs of chocolate all round to finish and maybe a carrot for Rudolf.
RIDE THE HOGWARTS EXPRESS Mini muggles can now take a ride on an 84-mile ride from the highest mountain in Ben Nevis to the deepest saltwater loch in Europe, Loch Nevis. Book a vintage compartment carriage to live out your Harry Potter moment. They might not have a Butter Beer, but you can enjoy a sumptuous cream tea.
DRIVE A MINI LAND ROVER OFF ROAD Kids don’t have to wait until they pass their driving tests to enjoy an off-road adventure — thanks to the new kids’ course at Gleneagles in Scotland they can go mud bashing now. Tots aged four to nine years old can make a splash in mini Land Rovers as they drive around a purpose-built course. So what we want to know is: Why didn’t this exist when we were young?
BE JAMES BOND FOR THE DAY The sky is the limit when it comes to kids' imaginations, which is why a private jet company has joined with famed kids’ party planners Sharky & George to offer a holiday that your kids will never forget. They will have the chance to go on a secret mission and feel what it’s like to be James Bond for the day.
Europe STAY IN A LEGOLAND SUITE What could make staying in a luxe hotel in London more exciting? When your suite is filled with Lego. The Rosewood London has joined with Legoland to create a truly unique experience. Kids will be welcomed at the entrance of their two-bedroom suite by two Queen’s Guards, before they enter the suite where they will find UK landmarks made entirely out of Lego and a portrait of themselves made out of the colourful bricks. If that’s not enough they will then enjoy a VIP helicopter ride to the Legoland theme park in Windsor. Travel By Lightfoot | www.travelbylightfoot.com
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GO WHALE WATCHING Visit Kaikoura in New Zealand for a little whale watching. Book a cruise and brace yourself for a glimpse or two of the magnificent Sperm whales that congregate around the 3kmdeep Kaikoura Canyon. A shot of a tail fin rising up out of the water has to be the ultimate holiday photograph.
Australasia SLEEP AT THE ZOO Your kids are sure to go wild for the Roar & Snore Adventure at Taronga Zoo. They can now spend the night in safari tents that are set amongst the enclosures and offer jawdropping views of Sydney Harbour Bridge. After waking to the sound of a trumpeting elephant, your tots can then go behind the scenes at the zoo and help the zoo keepers with feeding time.
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VISIT A CAVE FILLED WITH GLOW WORMS For a magical tour that your children are sure to love, take a boat trip through the Waitomo Glowworm Caves in New Zealand. Thousands of tiny glowworms will illuminate your way and create a fairy-tale backdrop to your holiday. Kids aged 12 and above can raft down the subterranean river and jump off cascading waterfalls with the help of experienced guides.
RIDE A SEGWAY AROUND ULURU Discover the world’s most famous monolith by Segway. Go for a whirl around the Red Centre and discover waterholes, ancient caves and learn more about the aboriginal culture along the way. It’s perfect for kids who want to see as much as possible before they go home. Aged 12 and above.
VISIT A HOBBIT HOUSE You’ve read the book, seen the movie, now visit Middle Earth. The Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit fans have the chance to visit Bilbo Baggins' home in Hobbiton or as it is more commonly known, Waikato, New Zealand. During your tour of the 12-acre movie set, you will be able to visit the Hobbit Holes, the Mill and the Green Dragon Inn for a ginger beer. Travel By Lightfoot | www.travelbylightfoot.com
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PROFILE —
MODEL MUM
Q & A
Nadya Hutagalung first lit up our TV screens as a VJ on MTV Asia. She has since gone on to host Asia’s Next Top Model and has starred in many well-known TV campaigns. But where Hutagalung is happiest is when she is in some of the wildest places on Earth. The environmentalist is now introducing her love of the wild to her three children who have joined her on some of her travels. We speak to her about her adventures. MY HAPPY PLACE IS… I love Nepal and India as they are the destinations I usually go to for a pilgrimage. Taking time out to centre myself when my life gets super busy brings me a deeper happiness and helps me manage all the work and family juggling that needs to happen to keep everything and everyone functioning. THE CITY THAT I LOVE… New York City would be one of my favourites, but only for a couple of weeks so I can satisfy my love of food. THE MOST GLAMOROUS HOTEL THAT I’VE VISITED… I would have to say that staying in the Coco Chanel suite at the Ritz in Paris would have to win the title of most glamorous. Staying in the room where Coco Chanel lived in Paris was really such an incredible privilege. OUR BEST FAMILY HOLIDAY… Visiting Kenya really changed my life, the incredible beauty and the sense that I was somehow going home to the land of origins was almost overwhelming. Being able to see so many wild animals — especially the elephants — was really deeply moving. The kids loved hearing the sound of lions Visiting the United Nations in Brussels.
when they went to sleep at night and being able to see the elephants stroll past their bedroom in the morning. The best moment was having the kids meet the last of the great big bull elephants called Tim. It was lovely to see the children get so close to him and experience his magic. You need to take your families and loved ones to see these endangered animals now before they are no longer here. MY FAVOURITE CHILDHOOD HOLIDAY… Driving along the Australian coast with my mum. MY BIGGEST HOLIDAY Hutagalung’s family DISASTER… on safari. Packing, planning, and arriving at the airport with the whole family only to realise we didn’t have the appropriate visas. We ended up going to Bali after much deliberation and hesitation on my side. That trip however did end up changing our lives as it was while there that we learned more about the Green School in Bali of which I am now a board member. WHEN ABROAD I RECOMMEND THAT YOU… Try everything! That’s the best advice I could possibly give. WHEN I WANT TO CHILL OUT ON HOLIDAY… If I was in Africa then I would be out on game drives for most of the day or I would go horseback riding. THE MOST INTERESTING PERSON I HAVE MET ON MY TRAVELS… A man named Richard Bonham of the Big Life Foundation in Kenya. He’s a true conservation hero who is working to save
the lives of elephants, rhino, lions and other game in the region and doing so with great success. Richard is really someone who lives and breathes his passion for conservation. THE SOUVENIR I WILL ALWAYS COME HOME WITH… I don’t usually buy holiday souvenirs except for textiles, which are always beautiful. MY TOP FIVE ASIAN COUNTRIES… Indonesia for its natural beauty and culture; Singapore for the fact it is a wellrun city and it’s easy to get all that you need; Nepal for its deep religious history; India for its colour, heart and a fantastic level of organised chaos thrown in; and Myanmar for its beautiful people, food and Buddhist sites. THE COUNTRY I’LL NEVER GO BACK TO… Never say never… I can’t think of any country that has left such an impact. MY GO-TO PHRASE WHEN TRAVELLING… “Where is your favourite place to eat?”
LIFE’S WORK To celebrate her 30th year in the entertainment industry, Nadya Hutagalung has just released a collection of her images of her trips to Africa, Nepal, Bali and Sumatra in her new book Walk With Me. Proceeds from the sale of the book go to projects in Sumatra to support the island’s endangered elephants. To order, email walkwithme@nadyahutagalung.com.
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PHOTOGRAPHY: NADYA HUTAGALUNG/FLY ENTERTAINMENT, DAVY LINGGAR ,ADHVAN MEDIA
UN ENVIRONMENT GOODWILL AMBASSADOR, SUPER MODEL AND MUM NADYA HUTAGALUNG TALKS ABOUT HER LIFE OF TRAVEL
Simply the world and you Legendary service since 1887 Our reputation travels BOOK NOW info@lightfoottravel.com
ADVENTURE —
FREE REIN THEODORA SUTCLIFFE JOINS HER SON FOR A MONGOLIAN ADVENTURE D E S T I N AT I O N : MONGOLIA
L O C AT I O N : K H ÖVS G Ö L N U U R L A K E
A Mongolian man wearing a wolfskin jacket.
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here is one phrase you need to know in rural Mongolia. And it’s probably not the one you think. Pretty much every interaction on our family horseback ride through the Mongolian landscape began the same way. “I hope your livestock are fattening well,” I would say, in abysmal Mongolian. “They are fat!” they would reply, beaming. Salt milk tea, vodka, or salt milk tea and vodka invariably followed, typically with biscuits, dumplings or bread with yogurt, cheese or clotted cream. For if there is one constant in Mongolia, apart from riding, wrestling, herding and dairy, it’s hospitality. And my son and I were awestruck by the hospitality we received on our journey. Mongolia, despite emergent mineral wealth, remains a thoroughly traditional society. This is a savage climate: temperatures can run from 40ºC in summer through to -40ºC in winter, before you factor in the windchill that sweeps across the steppes. And that vicious weather has imbued Mongolians with deep hospitality: you are welcomed into their ger, offered food and warmth as if your life depends on it, which, at times, it may. (Salt milk tea, for what it’s worth, is the perfect rehydration fluid in hot weather and in cold.) During summer, horseback riding in Mongolia’s sweeping, trackless countryside makes a spectacular family adventure. You’re pretty much guaranteed device-free time, due to the general shortage of both electricity and signal. You’ll be alone but for your family and your guide for much of the day and sometimes entire days and nights. And, whether you’re wild camping or staying in another family’s ger, you’ll build bonds as you cook over the open fire or Mongolian stove. Even in high season, the landscapes around Khövsgöl Nuur lake are spectacular and empty. Sunsets and sunrises reflect in its mirrored surface, the mountains of the Russian border looming,
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Clockwise from top: The tranquil shoreline. A ger camp. Zac rides across the Mongolian countryside. Dinner al fresco. A little girl helps herd in the sheep at the end of the day.
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PHOTOGRAPHY: THEODORA SUTCLIFFE, SHUTTERSTOCK
Sunsets and sunrises reflect in KhÖvsgÖl Nuur lake's mirrored surface, the mountains of the Russian border, ahead
snowcapped, ahead. Wildflowers fade from brilliant pink and gold to muted heather hues as you ascend to the chill of the taiga. Horses gallop free in herds across the plains, manes flowing; lonely gers stand proud above vast steppes; and children hustle baby goats into their pen for the evening. It’s worth noting that Mongolian steeds are not beginner horses. You’ll hear a lot about Genghis Khan in Mongolia, especially as you ride. Far from the barbarian some envisage, Genghis was a great horseback warrior who conquered China: in Mongolia he’s the national hero, and everything
from streets to vodka bear his name. Today’s Mongolian horses are the heirs of Genghis’ cavalry, and the typical stolid beach horse or line-following trekking pony will not prepare you to ride them. Your average Mongolian horse spends its leisure time galloping, unencumbered by saddle, bridle, rider or fences, across the steppe. It takes a passenger on sufferance alone. It will startle and rear at anything from birds to cracking ice, from thunder to being approached from the wrong side. For safety, I recommend buying (and wearing!) both good riding boots, which reduce the chances
Editor’s Note “BOTH MY YOUNGEST AND I LOVE HORSES AND RIDING COULD BE AN INCREDIBLE WAY TO SEE THIS MYSTICAL AND MAGIC COUNTRY.” N A D YA H U TA G A L U N G
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Mongolians take riding so seriously that aspirant politicians will pose for publicity photographs on top of a galloping horse
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of being dragged if you fall, and a helmet. If your family doesn’t have much riding experience, have a few lessons on a horse with spirit before you go, and be prepared for younger children to share the guide’s horse. Mongolians, who are arguably the most accomplished riders on earth, handle these temperamental, beautiful beasts with ease. I’ve witnessed several hauling on the reins one-handed, or wheel a galloping horse in a turning circle tighter than a moped’s. They ride western style, with a slouching elegance and iron control that’s as hard to emulate as it’s easy to admire, unencumbered by helmets, and still often sporting their traditional belted robes. So seriously do Mongolians take riding, in fact, that aspirant politicians will pose for publicity photos atop a galloping horse. My son and I spent a fortnight riding through the glorious landscapes around Khövsgöl Nuur, accompanied by a guide named Baatar and a packhorse we named Satan. I did our cooking, sometimes over an open fire that Baatar made, sometimes in a wok-style dish over the ger stove, planning our meals carefully around the next chance to stock up. Sometimes we’d buy dairy or fish from gers we passed; one memorable day we foraged slender spring onions and ate them with fresh cream cheese and new-baked bread; most of the time we ate one-pot dishes, stews and goulashes, hotpots and stroganoffs.
Clockwise from far left: The picturesque coast. A young girl inside her family's ger. Zac discovering the wilds of Mongolia. A typical family farm.
We learned the etiquette of the ger, where women sit on one side, men on another, the door always faces south, and possessions are typically stored in the spoke-like rafters or the walls. We learned the rhythms of Mongolian life, met a shaman and saw what’s still the most disgusting medical treatment I’ve ever witnessed: a man drinking horse dung juice mixed with vodka to cure an upset stomach. (Tempted? Don’t bother. He ended up on antibiotics anyway.) While my time in Mongolia was brief, the memories will stay with me forever. The empty plains, the pristine lakes, the horses roaming free… I recommend you go.
GETTING THERE For more information on travelling to Mongolia email a Lightfoot Travel Designer at info@lightfoottravel.com
MINI MONGOLIAN ADVENTURES This rugged country will thrill all ages
SLEEP IN A GER
RIDE A CAMEL
FIND DINOSAUR BONES
Experience life as a nomadic herder — spend
WITH TWO HUMPS
The first dinosaur eggs were found in the Gobi
the night in a Mongolian ger. Book into the Three
Mongolia is the home of the Bactrian
Desert in the 1920s. Dinosaur fossils can still
Camel Lodge and enjoy some stargazing from
camel. Ride across the desert on the
be seen protruding out of the golden sand.
your bed.
original 4WD.
Bayanzay is the place to live out your Jurassic
Park fantasies.
ADVENTURE —
WALK THIS WAY JESSICA PALMER AND HER FAMILY HIT THE TRAILS IN TASMANIA D E S T I N AT I O N : TA S M A N I A
L O C AT I O N : CA P E H AU Y
Cradle Mountain reflected in Dove Lake.
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Above: Follow a winding trail. Right: Cape Hauy cliffs in Tasmania. Below: Dove Lake near Cradle Mountain.
A
s I stood looking out over the cape, it dawned on me what all the fuss was about. Up until this point the hike was enjoyable, but I certainly wouldn’t have placed it in my top five. Even my two-year-old who was sat in her baby carrier stopped shovelling biscuits into her mouth long enough to say, “Wow, look at that mummy!” I stood in awe looking at the jawdropping scene. A single track snaked over the steep undulating landscape before me. “Is that Cape Hauy?” I called out to my husband. “I hope so,” he replied. “It’s got to be, hasn't it?” Now I’m worried, I didn't have it in me to walk more than a few kilometres carrying this weight. The weight in question was my two-yearold. My husband was bearing the load of our four-year-old and both kids had gone on a walking strike. I certainly didn't expect them to walk the
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whole 8.8km at their young age, but I could usually count on them managing 1 km per year of age before retiring to the hiking carrier. I was on a mission to prove that hiking with kids can be fun and at this point, I was feeling doubtful we would even achieve our first hike in Tasmania. I found a seat, unwrapped the peanut butter sandwiches and peeled a banana. With the heavy load removed from my back, and happily running around, I breathed a sigh of relief. Reminding myself that slow and steady wins the race, I decided to push on. The descent was steep and the views from the bottom were incredible. The huge dolerite cliffs that dominate South-East Tasmania’s coastline rose proudly like sentries, white in contrast to the turbulent dark blue waters of the Tasman Sea. The same sea, over who knows how many thousands of years, had assaulted the cliff face long enough to create an archway. As I rested my legs before the next ascent, I watched mesmerised as the waves smashed against the cliff and the turquoise water rushed through the archway. It receded again just as quickly as it entered, before returning once more. The kids talked non-stop between snacks and there were a couple of safe opportunities to let them walk, which they made the most of by poking at things with sticks. The panorama at the end of the track was geologically fascinating and beautiful. The tall sea stacks known as the “candlestick” and “totem pole” were thankfully, not part of this walk, but I was disappointed that I couldn't see any climbers on them. The kids managed to fall asleep and missed the view. The walk back was a one-foot-in-front-of-theother affair and lots of concentration. Both my husband and I tried to cover as much ground as possible while the kids were sleeping. Once back at
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The huge dolerite cliffs that dominate SouthEast Tasmania’s coastline rise proudly like sentries, white in contrast to the turbulent dark blue waters of the Tasman Sea
PHOTOGRAPHY: JESSICA PALMER AND SHUTTERSTOCK
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the seat, the hard part was over and it was mostly downhill back to the white sands of Fortescue Bay. Conclusions were made that the walk, whilst not laugh out loud fun, was absolutely worth the effort. The wildlife, the views, and Tasmania’s pristine air combined to create a sweaty, yet enjoyable experience. My legs didn’t think so the next day, or the day after that. With the theory that my legs needed to get moving again to fully forgive me, I decided to hike into the Apsley River Gorge on Tasmania’s East Coast. Rated a grade three hike, it was much easier than the grade four Cape Hauy track. The walk began with an easy path down to the Apsley River waterhole. It was quite a pretty spot
Right: A wallaby stopping to snack. Below: Palmer's family strolling across the Tasmanian countryside.
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EXCLUSIVE HANDFEED A BABY KANGAROO IN TASMANIA
Top: Following the Cape Hauy track. Above: One of the local residents at home in the snow.
and popular with locals in warmer weather. The group that arrived just before us attempted to take a dip in the water. Most didn’t get past their knees before deciding it was too cold. We crossed the water hole, using dry rocks as stepping stones. The kids were excited about this adventure, after all, it was one that involved water and rocks. The ascent wasn't that hard, even my four-year-old managed it, using his hands to scramble up. Once at the top, the walk was pleasant and uneventful. I could sense the gorge long before we reached it. The unmistakeable sound of water trickling, the way the dry eucalypt forest became lush and green. Even the birds became louder, their chirpy songs interrupting my thoughts. I followed the
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bright yellow tree markers, picking my way down a series of steep, but carefully placed rocks. My daughter was safe in the carrier on my back, and my son was being carefully shadowed by his dad. The foliage opened up, and there was the Apsley River Gorge in all its glory. The river bed was partially dry with pools of water, in which the kids decided to skim stones The river must be dangerous after heavy rains, but we were treated to a small waterfall with water trickling down high dolerite walls. It was idyllic. We spent an enjoyable hour skimming stones, eating lunch, and exploring. I joked I was ready to sell everything we owned and move to Tasmania, except part of me wasn't kidding. Both children agreed it was a good idea.
Editor’s Note “THE FRESH AIR, THE FRESH PRODUCE, TO BE IMMERSED IN NATURE. SOUNDS LIKE A DREAM TO ME.” N A D YA H U TA G A L U N G
5 WA L K S THAT WOW More trails for tiny trekkers 1 GREAT WALL OF
coast to coast. Families
CHINA, BEIJING
can explore the forts,
Enjoy a history lesson and
museums and town along
hike in one. Step back in
this UNESCO World
time at Mutianyu near
Heritage Site.
Beijing and see the work of the Qin Dynasty first hand. If any tiny legs start to feel tired you can stop for a picnic or ride the cable car back down. 4 MOUNT FUJI, JAPAN Leave the bright lights of Tokyo behind and enjoy some fresh air on Japan’s most famous mountain. If you want to take it slow, 2 INCA TRAIL, PERU
you can turn it into a
Pull on your walking boots
two-day trek and catch
and hit the Inca Trail.
the sunrise.
Families with kids aged 12 and above could consider a bespoke walk where they can walk between mountain Breathtaking views of Cradle National Park.
lodges and immerse themselves in the culture.
5 MILFORD TRACK,
A few days later, we also completed a 6km walk around Dove Lake near Cradle Mountain. The track was obscured by snow. I can’t begin to describe how picturesque the combination of snow, greenery, looming mountain, and lake were. Nor how fun it was to throw snowballs at each other for the first time. I felt I had achieved what I set out to do, to prove that hiking is possible and enjoyable with young kids. Overnight hiking with them? Is it achievable? That’s a story for another day!
NEW ZEALAND Everyone can have fun in Fjordland. Kids aged 10 and above can look at tackling the Milford Track, while 3 HADRIAN’S WALL,
families with younger tots
ENGLAND
can seek out one of the
The former north-west
easy short walks along
frontier of the Roman
the trail.
Empire stretches across the north of England from
GETTING THERE For more information on travelling to Tasmania email a Lightfoot Travel Designer at info@lightfoottravel.com
U LT I M A P R E S E N TS
One of the jawdropping suites at Ultima Gstaad.
The children's dormitory at Ultima Crans-Montana.
The glamorous lobby at Ultima Gstaad.
Look out over the mountains at Ultima Gstaad.
The marble bathroom at Ultima Megève.
MOUNTAIN HIGH
TAKE YOUR SKIING TRIP TO THE NEXT LEVEL WITH THE ULTIMA COLLECTION
N
ot all ski trips are created equal. You will know this when you take a ride to your luxury alpine chalet in a Maybach. Launched by Forbes 30 under 30 stars Byron Baciocchi and Max-Hervé George, the Ultima Collection really is the last word in luxury. Ultima Gstaad set the benchmark for ski chalets when it opened in 2016, now there are four more Ultima properties to discover in Crans-Montana and Geneva in Switzerland and Megeve and Courchevel in France. Ultima Gstaad remains the flagship of the group with the Diablerets massif as its backdrop. Comprising three traditional Swiss lodges, the only key to what may lie behind the doors of this chic retreat are the striking art pieces found outside the hotel by some of the world’s most renowned artists. Once you enter the superchalet, you’ll discover a one-of-kind Schimmel piano customised by graffiti artist Alec Monopoly in the lobby; Hermès
products in your suite and the Ultima Spa by La Prairie. Once you’re ready to hit the slopes you can join the Ultima Ski School, where the team will prepare your kit, then the private instructors will take you on a tour of the slopes. You will return to the hotel to be greeted with sumptuous faux-fur throws and drinks. Spend your evening at the finedining Duchessa Italian restaurant or relax upon velvet seats in the private cinema. While the hotel may be glamorous, you will soon see that the secret weapon is its staff. Nothing is too much trouble. No matter which Ultima property you stay at, your Ultima concierge will make sure that your every last wish is catered for. Whether you want a private driver to chauffeur you around town, a ski lesson, a spa treatment or a private chef, they will take care of this for you. So the only question is, which Ultima property do you want to visit first? We say first, because you can always fly to the next one with a helicopter transfer... Travel By Lightfoot | www.travelbylightfoot.com
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I N S P I R AT I O N —
WILD THINGS IF YOU WANT TO TEAR YOUR TOTS AWAY FROM THE WI-FI, TAKE THEM TO A WILDERNESS LODGE
THE ONE THAT’S CALLED AUSTRALIA’S GALAPAGOS
SOUTHERN OCEAN LODGE, AUSTRALIA Whether you want to spy koalas, kangaroos or spiky echidnas, you will be sure to see some of Australia’s most unique creatures on Kangaroo Island. Book into the sprawling Southern Ocean Lodge that offers panoramic views of the coastline. Go for a bracing walk along the bluff, join a naturalist for a tour of Seal Bay where you can learn more about the mammal's breeding cycle or take a bicycle or quad bike out for a spin. FAMILY FUN: Kids will love the Nocturnal Tour at the Hanson Bay Wildlife Sanctuary. This is when the koalas, Tammar wallabies, echidnas and possums come to life. THE ONE IN THE DESERT
SHIPWRECK LODGE, NAMIBIA From desert dwelling elephants to the remnants of shipwrecks, the Skeleton Coast holds many surprises. You will be able to discover them yourself when you book into Shipwreck Lodge. The ecofriendly hideaway that’s set by the Hoarusib River, features 10 solar-powered chalets tucked among the dunes. Designed to look like ships that have
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run aground, these timber lodges feature luxury bedrooms, ensuites and a wood burning stove. Enjoy 4WD visits to seal colonies and clay castles or just look out of your suite and be treated to uninterrupted views all the way to the Atlantic Ocean. FAMILY FUN: Embrace the latest trend for astrotourism and enjoy a spot of stargazing while enjoying dinner on the dunes. THE ONE IN THE CLOUD FOREST
INKATERRA MACHU PICCHU PUEBLO, PERU High in a Peruvian cloud forest, you’ll find the eco-lodge of Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo. This
intimate Andean village that’s set in 12 acres features terraced hills, waterfalls and whitewashed stone casitas. You can spend the day trekking through the jungle – or if you wish, you can even walk a section of the Inca Trail, exploring the archaeological ruins. If you need to ease those muscles you can book into the spa for the Tea Plantation treatment, where you are wrapped in tea leaves from the Inkaterra plantation. FAMILY FUN: Kids will receive a Child’s Explorer Kit on arrival and they will also be able to join the hotel’s ranger for a nature trek in the jungle.
Clockwise from top: Southern Ocean Lodge, Australia. Nihi Sumba, Indonesia. Inkaterra, Peru. Elsa's Kopje, Kenya. Hotel Husafell, Iceland. Shipwreck Lodge, Namibia..
Kids can join the hotel's ranger for a nature trek through the Peruvian jungle
THE ONE IN THE INDONESIAN JUNGLE
SUMBA ISLAND, INDONESIA Sumba Island is one of the most isolated islands in Indonesia and as such remains relatively untouched. Embark on a river paddle boarding trip through the jungle, passing remote and untouched villages. Trek to waterfalls and villages which are comprised of traditional Sumba pointed thatched roofs. And kickback in one of 21 luxury villas that make up the idyllic beach retreat Nihi Sumba. FAMILY FUN: Nihi Sumba comes with its old chocolate factory. Kids can have fun making their own chocolate bars with locally-grown cocoa pods. THE ONE THAT’S A FAMOUS FOUNDATION
THE ONE NEAR A LAVA CAVE
ELSA’S KOPJE, KENYA
HOTEL HUSAFELL, ICELAND
This hilltop safari retreat in Kenya is perfect for families. The original home of the Born Free foundation, this eco-friendly hideaway is a must-visit for animal lovers both large and small. Adventures can include game drives, bush walks, river fishing trips and visits to the park’s rhino sanctuary. While the pride of lions and the 60 black and white rhino may be the stars of the park, you can also spy semi-desert plains with giant baobab, rivers filled with basking hippos and more than 400 species of birds. FAMILY FUN: Enjoy breakfast in the bush within Meru National Park.
Escape to Hotel Husafell in Iceland for a true wilderness adventure. On your doorstep you will find glaciers, a lava cave and a thermal bath, which you can explore. In the summer months you can go horseback riding and hiking, and in the winter months you can travel across the countryside by snowmobile. Though you might want to be there between August and April as this is the best time to view the Northern Lights — nature's lightshow. FAMILY FUN: Still too busy for you? Then book a villa that is set two kilometres away from the hotel in a birchwood forest. The villa comes complete with widescreen TV, terrace and hot tub.
Editor’s Note “THE MORE WE EXPOSE OUR CHILDREN TO THIS INCREDIBLE PLANET AND ALL ITS BEAUTY, THE MORE THEY WILL BE MOVED TO PROTECT WHAT THEY LOVE.” N A D YA H U TA G A L U N G
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CITY BREAK —
KYOTO WITH KIDS YOU DON'T NEED TO AVOID A CITY BREAK WHEN YOU HAVE TOTS IN TOW. BEATE BALDRY TAKES HER KIDS ON AN URBAN ADVENTURE IN KYOTO
Clockwise from top left: A Zen Buddhist at the Kiyomizu-Dera temple. The Kiyomizu-Dera temple. A traditional food market in Kyoto. Traditional lanterns. A geisha talking a stroll. Learning about the culture. A deer at Nara Park A purification fountain.
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“Is she a real Geisha?” the kids whisper. They have been asking this every time a kimono-clad lady walks by, which is to say, every 10 minutes. So far, the answer has been a “No” each time. Our family is on day one of our five day trip in Kyoto and as we make our way through the Gion neighbourhood, we are all hopeful that we might catch a glimpse of a real Geisha. Kimono rental shops have sprung up around the city and tourists rent the garments by the hour to wander the streets and take pictures of themselves. The presence of these pretend Geishas prettily posing on bridges lends a movie-like feel to downtown Kyoto, the spell only broken by the waving of an occasional selfie stick. Few modern cities retain the charm of their past interwoven into the everyday as well as Kyoto. Nothing quite beats the magic of catching a glimpse of a maiko (young apprentice Geisha), shuffling through the cobbled streets on wooden thonged clogs as if from another century. Her colourful traditional kimono, red lips and white painted face together with an aversion to cameras, mark her out as the real deal. Our kids aged four and seven walk ahead of us as we approach the Kamo-gawa Riverside. It’s a stunning day with blue skies and not a cloud in sight. Couples are sitting on the banks of the river soaking up the morning sun, a muskrat forages by the water and herons quietly fish downstream. It’s difficult to believe this scene is in central Kyoto, Japan’s eighth largest city and once the imperial capital. Kyoto is in fact full of these little snapshots of old world charm. Having escaped the bombings of World War II, the city is teeming with centuryold shrines juxtaposed against modern buildings, UNESCO World Heritage sites and ancient Zen gardens nudged up against busy streets with modern supermarkets selling hot canned drinks and onigiri with a myriad of different fillings. We rent cycles for the day (there are kids’ bikes and adult bikes with attached child seats). We have stocked up on the aforementioned onigiri for a midmorning snack. It’s going to be tough deciding how to fit everything in our time here. There are more than 2,000 Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines (amongst them the golden temple of Kinkakuji is one you’ll probably recognise from pictures). We make a point to hunt down some of the “participatory” temples so the kids can actively get involved with sightseeing. At Kiyomizu-dera Temple, kids can respectfully take turns ringing the bells and have a go washing their hands in holy water. There’s also a secret underground passage here known as the Tainai Meguri to hunt out. While gardens like the Zen Buddhist garden at Ryoanji temple with its dry landscape of rocks and photogenic shrines like the popular Fushimi-inari Shrine with its vermilion gates may be on your must-see list, be warned it’s on every other tourist’s
list too and fighting the crowds takes some of the charm out of the experience. We really enjoy stumbling upon the less famed Heian Shrine by chance (after getting on the wrong bus) and we spend a few hours soaking in the architectural splendour and peaceful atmosphere thanks to the complete lack of tourists. Our kids are early risers, which works in our favour to beat the crowds. So we are first in line when UNESCO World Heritage Site Kyoto’s Nijo Castle opens. The kids have fun tiptoeing around the castle trying not to alert the nightingale floorboards and then run wild in the connecting manicured gardens afterwards. And then of course, there’s the food. Kyoto is literally swamped with Michelinstarred restaurants, but there are also plenty of every day restaurants that will give you a wonderful meal. It’s traditional for ryokans to serve their guests Kyotostyle Kaiseki Ryori, which is Japanese haute cuisine and we make a booking to try this special meal. We sit crosslegged on tatami mats around a low table as a multi-course meal unfolds, each dish served in a special order according to the seasons and everything beautifully presented with extreme attention to detail. Kyoto is also known for shojin ryori (vegetarian Buddhist cuisine), as well as Kyoto-style sushi using cured fish, yuba (tofu skin), and Kyo-wagashi (sweets) plus of course the full gamut of Japanese dishes from sushi (of which the conveyor belt ones are always popular with kids), to tempura. On day two a mild panic sets in. How will we possibly have time to eat all the delicious food that Kyoto has on offer? Nishiki market offers some of the answers. Fondly referred to as Kyoto’s Kitchen, this sprawling covered market consists of one long stretch of
Top: Sunset in Kyoto. Above: A Zen garden.
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Clockwise from top left: Vendors preparing chestnuts at Nishiki Market in Kyoto. Kinkakuji Gold Temple. A traditional kaiseki meal. Fushimi Inari Shrine in Kyoto.
food stalls and restaurants. It’s said to have been a wholesale fish market in the Edo period, but now its plethora of food shops offer a wonderful peek into the Japanese pantry. There are food tours to understand the intricacies of ingredients or you can wander the narrow spaces yourselves, feasting your eyes at each unique stall. We navigate the crowds, sampling different pickles (a favourite of our four year old), and stop to watch chefs making okonomiyaki (a Japanese pancake-noodle-pizza concoction). There’s fresh sashimi to eat on the spot, cold baby octopus with roe on sticks, and more kid-friendly delicacies like tamagoyaki omelette flavoured with sweet dashi, traditional sweets of green tea filled mochi and piping hot soy milk donuts. We keep a few kid-friendly ideas up our sleeves if the weather doesn’t hold up; there’s the Kyoto Railway Museum (one of the country’s best train museums), Kyoto International Manga Museum (better for older kids) and a place that offers Ninja lessons for kids and adults alike. But it’s all crisp mornings and sunny blue skies and our two are happy sightseeing with a play at the occasional neighbourhood playground. When the kids tire of temple touring we take a short train ride to Nara where the kids feed the deer with special deer biscuits. The deer are well accustomed to this treat and aren’t afraid to give you a nudge if you don’t feed them fast enough so be careful with little fingers. On our last day we head to Arashiyama for the famous Bamboo forest. We don’t make it for the recommended 6am start for that coveted picture of the green sways of bamboo before the crowds descend. Instead we hop on a rickshaw (just to indulge the kids) and get whisked off the main route down side passageways whilst our guide entertains us with stories of his hometown, famous actors he has carried and other interesting trivia. The rickshaw ride finishes at the foot of the hill to the Monkey Park. The 20-minute uphill walk rewards us with beautiful views across Kyoto. Wild macaque monkeys are everywhere, babies clinging to their mothers or cheekily playing tag around a tree stump. A small outpost gives our kids the opportunity to feed the monkeys from the safety of a cage and afterwards there’s more running around (for the kids not just the monkeys) at the nearby playground, complete with swings and a slide. We have one afternoon left and we saunter the pretty streets of Shinbashi Dori back in Gion, calculating how many more times we can feasibly eat sushi before we leave. Willow trees droop over the Shirakawa canal lined with both traditional wooden teahouses and trendy cafes serving reinterpreted matcha inspired desserts. Two girls walk quickly past us, their kimonos swishing as they navigate the cobbled stones. We don’t see their faces to find out if they are real Geishas or not. I’d like to think they are. Freeze this frame and it could be a scene out of Japan from two hundred years ago. I choose to squint and blur out the selfie stick.
C I T Y H I D E AWAY S AMAN KYOTO Set within the former garden of a textile museum, kids will have fun walking along the pretty stone pathways that wind their way along the forest floor. Close to all the famed sites, including the golden temple that is Kinkakuji. Opens November 2019. FOUR SEASONS KYOTO The brocade on the cushions were created by a Japanese atelier who creates textiles for Dior and the handcrafted floors come with six-figure price tags, but you have no fear about taking kids here. In fact, the team will arrange for cute amenities to be left in your room for your tots and there will be milk and cookies at the turndown service. HOSHINOYA KYOTO If you have older kids (aged 13 and above), you can
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It could be a scene out of Japan from 200 hundred years ago
take a look at this sweet traditional retreat that’s set on the edge of a forest, which is home to monkeys and deer. PARK HYATT KYOTO Looking for a cosy hideaway for your city break? Then book into the new Park Hyatt Kyoto. Designed as a luxury guesthouse, this hillside retreat is sure to make your family feel at home.
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Justin and Karin Miller in their award-winning vineyard.
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DREAM LIFE —
FAMILY AFFAIR JUSTIN MILLER’S FAMILY TURNED AN EMPTY PATCH OF LAND IN CALIFORNIA INTO AN AWARD-WINNING VINEYARD. HERE THEY TALK ABOUT KEEPING THE LEGACY ALIVE
P
icture an idyllic vineyard and Garden Creek Ranch could be it. Follow a meandering road lined with ponderosa pines, then pass by a river dotted with ducks. Keep driving until you reach the base of a majestic mountain and spy a 50-year-old redwood barn. It’s here you will find an award-winning winery. This 100-acre property in Sonoma County, is more than a passion project, it’s a home. Created by former cattle farmer James Miller in 1964, it is now home to the second generation of Millers — Justin,
his wife Karin and their children Elsa, 13, and Leif, 11. Justin had a scholarship to Rhode Island School of Design, but when the farm’s foreman left, Justin’s father asked him if he would take over the land. This could be a daunting task for any 19 year old. But the teenager rose to the challenge and turned it into an organic, sustainable farm that focused on growing ultra-premium grapes. With the help of his childhood sweetheart Karin, whose Swedish-immigrant parents also launched a successful vineyard, the twosome were able to
take Garden Creek Ranch to the next level. Justin’s family had been successfully selling grapes to large winemakers in the region. But Justin and Karin could see the wine drinker was becoming more sophisticated and there was an opportunity to create more premium grapes. The couple reduced the output of grapes per acre to improve the quality of the fruit. They also looked at how they could make the soil richer. Justin asked wineries to return the unwanted skins from their deliveries so they could turn them into compost. They also grew crops with tuberous roots, such as beans, so they could boost the soil with healthy microbial content and use less water on the land. Apart from the giant leaps forward they were making, they also had Justin’s father’s journals to refer to. Each day during his career he had made a point of recording the weather and what they were doing in the field. The Sonoma community was also happy to share its knowledge. It wasn’t long before Justin was starting to produce great flavours in the vineyards. So in 2000, Karin persuaded him they should start making their own wine. To minimise the expensive start-up costs, the couple bought second-hand equipment, turned an old redwood barn into a winery and crushed grapes at a friend’s vineyard. From the start, the duo wanted to create a vintage that would stop people in their tracks. Karin
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Clockwise from top left: Justin and Karin with their children Elsa and Leif enjoying lunch in the vineyard. The family hiking across some of their 100 acres. The couple tasting the blends.
Warnelius-Miller said: “We were chasing flavours in the fields”. They chose to create just two just wines — a Bordeaux blend and a Chardonnay — and were so dedicated to creating the perfect vintage they laid the wine down for seven years. They bottled their blend in 2000 and released it 2007 — the start of the Great Recession. “We thought ‘Argh, what are we doing?’,” said Karin. “But luckily people who buy sophisticated wines keep buying. So we had a good beginning.” They decided to keep the output small, releasing only 1500 cases of each wine. But small is beautiful says Karin: “We are family farmers. Some people arrive in California, buy a multi-million dollar property and then hire a winemaker. We still have the same families working with us who worked on the farm in 1964.” Now the third generation of Millers are learning how to be winegrowers. Daughter Elsa and son Leif will help out during harvest time. “Their job is to remove the leaves from the gondola where the
T “
We were chasing flavours in the fields
”
grapes are collected. We don’t keep them out of school, like my parents used to when they needed help with the harvest,” laughs Karin. “But they love taking part.” While it is a picturesque place to live, Karin accepts farming can be a tough. In 2018 the family were advised to leave the farm as there were around 60 wildfires in the area and one was on the mountain right above them. “The wind was equally as terrifying as it reached 90mph,” says Karin. The strong winds fortunately kept the flames at bay on the hillside. However, the farm suffered heavily from smoke damage. “We had delivered the fruit to our winery contract, but we were yet to pick the grapes for our own wines,” says Karin. The 25 tonnes of grapes set aside for their wines had been tainted by smoke. “Justin and I said ‘Let’s not make wine out of this — we can’t compromise’,” says Karin. It took the family about a month to get the operation running again and they concentrated on
From top: The couple checking their vines. Harvest time becomes a family affair. The Millers with their sought-after crop.
new projects. They launched two vineyards, where they are growing white Rhônes and pinot noir for their new brand Warnelius-Miller. “We have always grown cabernet sauvignon, which the valley is famous for,” says Karin. “We are adding WarneliusMiller (our names) as the extension of our creativity.” When they are not working the vineyard, they go kitesurfing on the coast or enjoy a family bike ride through the countryside. Karin knows their hard work has been worth it: “When people take the wine in the mouths and it runs across their palates, they look at us in awe.”
FOOD & DRINK —
SPICE WORLD DEVORAH LEV-TOV AND HER FAMILY EAT THEIR WAY THROUGH A PEPPER PLANTATION IN THE KAMPOT REGION OF CAMBODIA
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hen Putsa Thea, the leisure concierge at Alila Villas Koh Russey in Cambodia asked me if I was sure my three-year-old son could handle the trip to Kampot, I hesitated. “It’s a long day, and the roads are bumpy,” he advised. “And can he handle spicy food?” But Putsa didn’t know that my husband and I had already hiked through Bryce Canyon in Utah with Sammy on our backs, driven him across the Negev desert, and that he’d eaten everything from molé to spicy grasshoppers in Mexico City. “He can handle it, we’re not worried,” I said putting Putsa's mind at rest. So early the next day we voluntarily left the copper sand beaches of Koh Russey by speed boat and headed to Sihanouk, on the mainland. From there, we set off for the two-hour drive east to Kampot. For the first 20 minutes the roads
“
The flavours were intense. We could taste the spice, but there were also notes of eucalyptus, herbs, and fruit
”
Clockwise from above: Banana snacks. The famed pepper. One of the four flavours. Sammy racing through the plantation.
were fine, but they soon turned to dirt and were filled with potholes. The rain didn’t help either, and muddy pools developed around us. We drove through small villages with a few roadside stalls and temples, and I pointed out the plastic bottles filled with gasoline that hawkers sold to passing rickshaws and motorcycles. After an hour, the dreary landscape turned suddenly beautiful: green mountains appeared, with lush plants cascading down them. This was Bokor National Park, and Sammy pressed his face against the glass. We soon reached the small city of Kampot, which we drove right through, and then found ourselves in nature — and on a bumpy dirt road — once again. Putsa pointed out the stunning Brateak Krola Lake, also known as Secret Lake, surrounded by mountains and palm trees. Finally, we reached our destination: La Plantation, a 20-hectare organic farm specialising in growing peppercorn. Sammy was thrilled to get out of the car and we all made our way up the stone path to a large pavilion. La Plantation is one of several Kampot peppercorn farms in the region, but it’s one of the few that allow visitors, and the only one that offers organised tours and tastings.
After being given plates of dried bananas and peanuts sprinkled with piquant crushed peppercorn — a truly delightful snack that Sammy devoured — we gathered around a long table with other visitors and learned about the history of peppercorn in Kampot. Sammy sat rapt for the entire presentation, although there was plenty of room for him to wander around if he hadn’t been so intrigued. We learned that peppercorns have been growing in Kampot since the 13th century and they became prized for their exceptional quality, flavour, and spice. In the 19th and early 20th century, the French developed pepper growing on an intense scale in the region and during that time, Kampot pepper was mainly exported to France, carrying a reputation among chefs of being top quality. But during the Cambodian Civil War in the 1970s, much of the land was destroyed and the pepper plants were abandoned. It took until the 2000s for farmers to get back on their feet and begin planting and harvesting again. The year 2010 was a pivotal moment: Kampot pepper became the first Cambodian agricultural product to be granted PGI (protected geographical indication) status. French couple Guy and Nathalie Porré launched La Plantation in 2013. Today it’s one of the largest pepper plots in the region, with 22,000 Kampot pepper posts that are hand-harvested. Next came the tasting, and we all eyed the various glass bottles filled with different coloured peppercorns around the table. We all know about black pepper, of course, but there’s also green, red, and white peppercorns — and they all grow from the same plant, we learned. The different colours come with the time of harvest and how the peppercorns are processed after being picked.
Have you ever eaten a plain peppercorn? We hadn’t, and definitely not one this fresh and of such high quality. The flavours were intense. They were spicy yes, but there also notes of other flavours like eucalyptus, herbs, and fruit. As plate after plate of peppercorns went around, Sammy tried them all. His lips puckered, his nose scrunched up, and his eyes began to water. But he kept going, even trying the white one, which was the spiciest. “Bring the baby a banana!” our guide cried, and someone ran over with one of the region’s deliciously juicy small bananas. Sammy was fine, but he ate the banana anyway because they’re among his favourite fruits. Sammy is a flavour lover: I always need to put salt and pepper or other spices on his food for him to enjoy it. This is true of most kids — they are human, after all. And most of us don’t enjoy bland food. Still, many adults assume children can’t handle spice. But food is an adventure of its own and if given the chance to try different foods, cuisines, and dishes, people usually gravitate toward the flavourful ones and children are no different. Well, at least Sammy isn’t. After the tasting, we got to walk through the farm itself, passing by passion fruit vines, banana trees, and turmeric plants along the way. When we reached the leafy pepper plants we discovered they grow along wooden poles, with the peppercorns cascading down along the stems. We were there in December and the peppercorns were bright green. They were currently harvesting some of them for the fresh green season, while leaving most of them on the vine to further ripen. In January, they begin to harvest the more mature ones, which are then dried until they turn black. There were baskets full of freshly harvested green peppercorns dotting the fields and Sammy ran his hands through the little balls, even popping more into his mouth. Finally it was time for lunch, and La Plantation has two restaurants cooking French and Cambodian pepper-flavoured cuisine. We dined on traditional Cambodian Nom Krourk (rice and
Kampot in Cambodia.
coconut spherical pancakes) studded with green peppercorns, Fish Amok curry saturated with spices, and green vegetable curry with red long pepper, another variety grown on the farm. For dessert, the farm makes its own ice cream, with many flavours featuring peppercorns. Sammy loved the dark chocolate with black pepper flavour, while I couldn’t get enough of the vanilla ice cream with red pepper. On our drive back to Sihanouk, Sammy immediately fell asleep in the car — it was a long day of adventure for his tastebuds as much as his mind. He missed our stop at the market in Kampot city, where we stocked up on bags of peppercorns to bring home and watched locals hawk everything from dried shrimp to stinky durian to live ducks. When we returned to the hotel that evening, Putsa told all his colleagues about the little American boy who had eaten all the pepper. By the next morning, Sammy was famous on the island for being the youngest guest to try all four pepper varieties. I hope that Sammy will always seek out flavour in his life and I plan on doing as much as I can to help him experience as many adventures as possible. After all, adventure is the spice of life!
Editors’ Note “THIS WOULD BE WONDERFUL LEARNING JOURNEY FOR ANYONE WITH A KEEN INTEREST IN FOOD.” N A D YA H U TA G A L U N G
ARTISANAL ADVENTURES IN ASIA Flavoursome food tours that the family will love
BUFFALO MOZZARELLA
CHOCOLATE
WHITE TEA
Cheese fiends should visit the Laos
Pod Chocolate in Bali couldn’t be any fresher
If you could have all the tea in China, you should probably pick the famous Anji White Tea.
Buffalo Dairy in Luang Prabang. Guests can
– the cocoa beans are grown on the island.
learn how to milk the buffaloes, feed the cute
Visit the boutique chocolate factory, try the
Head to Alila Anji where you can take a tour of
calves and cook up a mozzarella dish or two
ingredients and make your own bespoke bar
the tea plantations that surround Tian Fu Lake
with a chef in its kitchen.
using ingredients such as chilli, goji berry
and drink the tea that has been described as
and coconut.
liquid silk.
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A uniqe jewel in the Indian Ocean, that you never want to leave!
Four degrees south of the equator lies Fregate Island Private, a natural outstanding beauty with peaceful settings of verdant, tropical interiors and abundant nature fringed by seven fairy-tale beaches. The white powdery sand sweeps around the edge of sentinelled giant, iconic granite boulders. Fregate Island Private is a one of a kind destination where guests can experience the ultimate offer to Seychelles luxury with an exclusive 5 – star experience and a team genuinely committed to conservation. Fregate Island Private, Seychelles reservations@fregate.com +49 69 247549400
FOOD & WINE —
M O N I C A
G A L E T T I ’ S
GUIDE TO NEW ZEALAND THE MASTERCHEF: THE PROFESSIONALS ' JUDGE GIVES US THE LOWDOWN ON HER SECOND HOME
Hippopotamus in Wellington.
Hawke's Bay famed vineyards.
Born in Samoa and raised in New Zealand, the land of the long white cloud holds a special place in Chef Monica Galetti’s heart. It was here she learnt her trade before she was invited to join Chef Michel Roux Jr's world-renowned restaurant Le Gavroche. Galetti now helms her own restaurant Mere in London, where she blends classical French dishes with South Pacific influences. MY FIRST IMPRESSION OF NEW ZEALAND Very cold compared to Samoa and I thought it was so busy. MY FAVOURITE RESTAURANTS In Auckland we love the Depot Eatery. In Wellington, go to Whitebait for a finedining option, Karaka Café for Maoristyle cooking or Charley Noble for casual, but great food.
The famed Manuka honey.
Depot Eatery in Auckland.
BEST PLACE TO BUY COFFEE Honestly, New Zealand really knows its coffee. Havana Coffee Works is one of the best for us.
PHOTOGRAPHY: DEPOT EATERY, HAVANA COFFEE WORKS, MERE, NEW ZEALAND TOURIST BOARD, SHUTTERSTOCK.
PERFECT SOUVENIR FROM NEW ZEALAND Definitely Manuka honey! BEST PLACE TO ENJOY A COCKTAIL In Wellington I’d recommend Hippopotamus Bar. In Auckland, along the Viaduct is very popular.
Waimangu Cathedral Rocks in Rotorua.
Havana Coffee Works in Wellington.
TAKE A MINI FOOD TOUR Go to Auckland for the large diversity it offers and easy accessibility to gorgeous places like Waiheke Island. Head to Bluff for the Bluff Oysters! Visit Hawke’s Bay, Martinborough and Otago for some fabulous wine and food tours. Then go to Rotorua to see how food is cooked in the boiling volcanic pools. Travel By Lightfoot | www.travelbylightfoot.com
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LEARN A NEW SKILL…
BECOME A… —
A MUST DO FOR BIG KIDS AND SMALL Get ready for the most interesting LinkedIn update or Show and Tell Day yet... Travel to the wilds of Norway and learn how to become a husky trainer. You can help put pups aged up to nine months through their paces so that they can master the art of being a sled dog. If you are feeling daring you can also practise mushing and take your own team of sled dogs on to the snow.
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PHOTOGRAPHY: SHUTTERSTOCK
HUSKY TRAINER
ALPINE. ASIAN. AUTHENTIC. THECHEDIANDERMATT.COM
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