China , Russia & Centr al Asia
Ta i lor - m a d e J o u r n e y s
for
the
D i s c e r n i n g T r av e l l e r
Dear Traveller Such is the magnitude and diversity of this region that I can’t help but want to go back and explore further, delving into the intriguing cultures and soaking up the dramatic scenery and ancient monuments that span this vast tract of central and north Asia. The region’s terrible but utterly enthralling history of invasions, empires and dynasties has left it with a phenomenal cultural legacy. Exquisite architecture and ancient relics of power and majesty abound. This is the home of the Forbidden City, Great Wall and Terracotta Army, the Hermitage and Catherine Palace, and some of the world’s most beautiful mosques, yet these historical remnants are by no means the only reason to visit. I find myself just as captivated by the fascinating customs and traditions of the region’s plethora of ethnic minority groups. Our specialists have a passion for these countries that cannot be matched. This brochure is a collection of their favourite places, hotels and experiences, and I hope that their enthusiasm inspires you to travel to this part of the world.
Craig Burkinshaw, Founder
Introducing Audley I
t was a trip around Asia in the early 1990s that ignited Craig Burkinshaw’s passion for travel. On his return he was so keen to share his experiences that he founded Audley, or Asian Journeys as we were then called. We offered a new type of travel – individual journeys, designed to match the traveller’s interests, tastes and budget, created with an absolute commitment to quality and authenticity. Today this desire to share authentic travel experiences is undiminished and Audley is one of the UK’s most highly regarded specialist tour operators, providing tailor-made trips throughout Asia, Africa, the Middle East, Latin America, Australasia, North America, Antarctica and the Arctic.
Specialist knowledge
Tailor-made journeys
Speaking to one of our specialists is the best way to start planning your trip, whether you already know where you want to go or just have the seed of an idea. They can discuss your plans, offer advice and give you ideas and inspiration for your trip, before creating a detailed itinerary, which will be forwarded to you together with maps, accommodation descriptions and a price. The same specialist will then refine the plans until you are completely satisfied and will be on hand to answer questions from your very first telephone call until you return from your trip.
The beauty of tailor-made travel is that every trip is unique. Whether you want to stay in simple or luxurious accommodation, have great guides on hand or explore under your own steam, travel for one week or five, we can create a trip to match your tastes and budget. We can also design trips for a special occasion, whether this is a spectacular honeymoon or milestone anniversary. Throughout the brochure you will find suggested itineraries and some of our favourite places to stay, but these are all just for inspiration as each trip is created uniquely for you and there are many more options available.
Our China, Russia and Central Asia specialists have all travelled extensively throughout the region and in many cases lived there, so you can rely on their in-depth, first-hand knowledge. They regularly return to discover new hidden gems in each country, stay in the accommodation and meet our guides – many of whom are firm friends – as well as experience all the excursions and activities. We believe this is the only way that we can genuinely offer you a tailor-made service and enable you to experience a side of China, Russia and Central Asia that others might miss.
Planning your trip
The Kremlin in Moscow, Russia
Contents Introduction
2-7
China
8-45
Classic China
10-27
Xian & the Terracotta Army
14
Family China
16
Cruising on the Yangtze
22
China’s art & technology
24-25
Yunnan & Guizhou
28-41
Ethnic minorities of Yunnan & Guizhou 36-37 42-45
Hong Kong Tibet
46-51
Overland to Kathmandu
Financial security All travel arrangements in this brochure that include a flight from the UK are ATOL protected by the Civil Aviation Authority. Our ATOL number is 4817. Those package arrangements which are not protected by our ATOL are covered by ABTOT, the Association of Bonded Travel Organisers Trust. Please see our booking conditions for more information or visit www.audleytravel.com/protect
The Silk Route
50 52-61
The Trans-Siberian Railway Mongolia
62-63 64-69
Ger camps
68
Russia
70-78
Russian river cruises
78
Useful information
79
Introduction
3
Experience
China, Russia & Central Asia S
ome of the world’s oldest and largest empires originated in this part of the world and the ancient mosques, temples, palaces, monasteries and monuments that remain are an outstanding legacy. Travellers cannot fail to be inspired by the breathtaking landscapes, fascinating history and the sheer number of cultural relics, let alone the diversity of the people throughout the region. From the fairytale domes of Russia’s cathedrals and churches to the staggering Great Wall of China, the snow-capped peaks of Tibet and the vivid mosques and madrasas of Uzbekistan, the range of sights and experiences possible throughout the region is astounding.
History Yi women, China
Fruit and vegetable stall, Hong Kong
Laden with tales of invaders and powerful empires, the history of this region is as vast and varied as it comes. The first Chinese Empire was forged in 221 BC, uniting various warring kingdoms and bringing peace to the realm. Expanding and fending off invaders throughout countless dynasties, it became a world leader and today is returned to this position, as China’s influence and economic strength are felt throughout the world once more. Genghis Khan is Mongolia’s most known figure, a fierce warrior whose army fought its way across Asia and Eastern Europe during the 13th century, conquering numerous countries before disintegrating due to infighting. This made way for Tamerlane, a controversial ruler whose violent Timurid dynasty spread west from Samarkand, in present day Uzbekistan, in the 15th century. Centuries later, the Russian tsars expanded Russia’s territory to control most of Central Asia and even extracted a strip of land from China, on which the port town of Vladivostok was built. Communism transformed the Russian Empire into the Soviet Empire, and substituted Orthodox churches for Soviet tower blocks. Today, the historical and cultural remnants of all these empires are dotted throughout the region and make a trip to this part of the world truly fascinating.
Saint Petersburg, Russia
4
Dong minority rice worker, China
Mongolian horseman
People & culture Encompassing two of the largest countries in the world, it is unsurprising that this region is home to a multitude of different people and cultures. From rich Russian oligarchs to the shamans of Siberia and nomads of Mongolia, each country’s population has its own distinct characteristics and culture. The region’s numerous trade routes, as well as its long and fascinating history of invasion and exploration, have allowed cultural influences from neighbouring countries to spread throughout. The most recent of these was Russia’s colonial rule of Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan, a regime which has left its legacy in the form of the Russian language, predominant throughout both countries, food and in some areas, religion. Both China and Russia are so large that their people vary hugely from region to region. China has 56 separate ethnic groups, including the dominant Han people. Each group has its own traditional dress, customs, culture, language and beliefs that add extra dimensions to whichever area you are visiting. Although in China much of the country’s cultural heritage was destroyed during the Cultural Revolution of the 1960s and 70s, the past decade has seen a reinvigoration of pride among the Chinese in their country’s artistic legacy.
ARCTIC OCEAN
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Lake Baikal
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UZBEKISTAN TASHKENT TURKMENISTAN ASHGABAT
ULAAN BAATAR MONGOLIA
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Festivals
Food
China in particular is known for its numerous festivals, which celebrate important points of the Chinese lunar calendar as well as culturally significant periods for the country’s different ethnic minorities.
The food throughout China, Russia and Central Asia is as varied as its cultures and landscapes. Chinese food is well-loved across the world but the most common recipes available internationally actually originate from Hong Kong and southern China. Each region of China has its own cooking style and preferred flavours, which vary enormously from the Chinese food most of us are used to at home. The northeast, for example, favours heavier meals with meat to help keep out the cold, while the southwest region prefers spicy vegetable dishes and hotpots. The cuisine of Central Asia and Mongolia has a poor reputation, perhaps because it is quite simple, limited to a few specialities which are usually mutton or soup based, but this hearty fare can be exactly what is needed when staying in a traditional yurt or ger. Russia’s cuisine has improved markedly since the fall of communism and Moscow and Saint Petersburg, in particular, have a number of excellent restaurants serving top-class food.
The larger festivals, such as Chinese New Year, which, timed with the lunar calendar, falls between January 20 th and February 21st each year, and the Mid-Autumn Festival, late October or early September, affect the whole country and people tend to travel home to be with their families. The ice festival held in Harbin showcases some of the world’s best examples of ice sculptures. They become even more impressive once the sun goes down as they’re lit up in a rainbow of colours. The festival is held from the end of December through to the middle of February though this can vary depending on the weather. It is the smaller, minority-specific festivals, however, which are the most interesting to witness as these often include unusual cultural
Archers at the Naadam Festival, Mongolia
Tibetan woman in traditional dress
traditions and fantastically colourful costumes. The water-splashing festival, commonly held in southern Yunnan by the Dai minority, marks the start of the Dai New Year in April and is celebrated with religious rituals and much merrymaking. Mongolia, too, hosts a number of festivals which take place throughout the year and usually comprise various sports and games. The most well-known of these is the Naadam festival, which was originally created as a wedding celebration, then later as a way to train soldiers for battle, and features competitions of wrestling, archery and horse racing.
Dim sum, Hong Kong
01993 838 200 • Introduction
5
Experience
China, Russia & Central Asia
Shanghai, China
Landscapes & scenery
Experiencing the outdoors
The scenery in this region is among some of the most dramatic in the world, and is one of the main highlights of a visit to any of these countries. Here you will find the staggering Himalayan and Tian Shan mountain ranges, the fertile valleys of south western china and the rolling sands of the Gobi Desert. From southern China’s iconic karst formations and ancient rice terraces, to the vast turquoise waters of Issyk Kul in Kyrgyzstan and Russia’s Lake Baikal, China, Russia and Central Asia have an endless diversity of landscapes.
Such varied and beautiful scenery cries out to be explored in more depth – by boat, on foot or by bike.
The great journeys that can be taken across the region, a trip on the Trans-Siberian Railway or following in the footsteps of ancient traders on the Silk Route, allow you to capture the shifting scenery as you progress from one country to another. One of the best ways to fully appreciate any of these destinations is to combine time spent discovering their spectacular natural landscapes with visits to contrasting modern, globalised cities and ancient monuments.
Elderly gentleman, Khiva, Uzbekistan
Tian Shan, Kyrgyzstan
Silk market, Kashgar, China
6
Immerse yourself in Mongolia’s wonderful natural beauty, experiencing the nomadic lifestyle en route through the stunning countryside. Kyrgyzstan’s outstanding mountainous landscape lends itself to walks of all lengths, whether it be a short stroll from your yurt camp around Lake Song Kol or into the dramatic red cliffs at Jeti Oghuz, or a multi-day hike through the Tian Shan mountain range towards the Inylchek Glacier. Similarly, China offers all types of hiking experiences: along the majestic Great Wall near Beijing; in the mountains and valleys of northern Yunnan province; or through the ancient villages and picturesque rice paddies. Boat trips can also be taken through the Three Gorges on China’s famous Yangtze River, or journeying from Guilin to Yangshuo in the southwest of China, amid the region’s dramatic karst peak scenery.
Chillies drying amid the rice terraces of Longji, China
Cities
Responsible travel
China and Russia are home to some of the most exciting cities in the world, which have kept their own unique identity and heritage while rushing forward to embrace the modern, international world of today.
We care deeply about the places we travel to, and we work hard to ensure your visit has a positive effect. We seek out experiences and places to stay which mirror our passion, and invariably we find that these are the most rewarding.
Moscow’s grand and imperious Kremlin and Stalinist skyscrapers contrast delightfully with the more playful, cheery exterior of Saint Basil’s Cathedral. The gloriously attractive Saint Petersburg is the ultimate city break destination, home to a relaxed cafe culture and numerous art collections, palaces and churches to explore. Hong Kong’s vibrant, cosmopolitan character entices travellers to lose themselves in its exciting streets, restaurants and markets. Its atmosphere of globalised modernity mixing enticingly with Chinese traditions. Shanghai’s progressive, technologically advanced skyline and buzzing business world sits happily alongside the beautiful colonial buildings of the Bund and tranquil, tree-lined avenues and cafes of the French Concession. Beijing has somehow managed to retain its venerable inheritance of splendour in the lavish Forbidden City and Summer Palace, while the city has continued to develop at a staggering pace. Traditional paved alleyways containing ancient courtyard homes nestle among towering skyscrapers in an incongruous, yet somehow attractive, blend of old and new.
Wherever we can, we use local people and businesses as our partners in destinations. Not only do we feel this gives you the best experience, it also brings benefits to local communities. The benefit also spreads further. Local people are motivated to preserve what attracts visitors, be it the culture, wildlife or environment. Conversely, we actively avoid ‘tourist traps’.
Decorative windows in Suzdal, Russia
The carbon footprint of flying is relatively large and we’d encourage you to carbon offset your flights.
Giant pandas, Chengdu, China
Char Minar, Bukhara, Uzbekistan
01993 838 200 • Introduction
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China C
hina’s rich history is as complex and varied as its myriad landscapes and people. This venerable civilisation is a land of contrasts, where majestic ancient sites sit amid modern metropolises, soaring mountains shimmer against vast deserts, sublime rural scenery nestles against bustling cities, and well over a billion people converge with their numerous cultures, languages and cuisine. China has bewitched visitors for centuries with its architectural marvels and exotic wares, which made their way through Asia and into Europe on the fabled Silk Road. Its beauty has long been eulogised by poets and artists alike while its Taoist, Buddhist and Confucian temples remain sites of pilgrimage today. Here the frenetic modern world somehow manages to coexist with the timeless rural rhythms of emerald rice paddies and sacred mountains. In the cities, ground-breaking technologies and soaring skyscrapers compete with ancient teahouses, traditional herbal medicines and the elegance of an unhurried, unchanging way of life. China’s inspiring contrasts ensure that it never fails to surprise visitors.
Classic China
Hidden away in the southwest corner of China lie Yunnan and Guizhou provinces, which are two of China’s most rural and diverse areas. They are a melting pot of different ethnic minorities, each with their own distinct customs, languages and traditional dress. Equally spectacular is the landscape here, with mountains, karst peaks, lakes, forests and terraced hillsides. Villages that haven’t changed for centuries and a way of life that couldn’t be further from that in Beijing are just two of the reasons to come to this fascinating, and still relatively undeveloped, part of China.
Urumqi
MONGOLIA
Tian Shan
Kashgar THE SILK ROUTE
Chengde
Dunhuang
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Mount Everest
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CLASSIC CHINA
Chengdu
Yichang Chongqing
INDIA
YUNNAN & Guiyang GUIZHOU
Kunming
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Huang Shan
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Shanghai, on the other hand, is a global metropolis whose soaring modern architecture is combined with colonial-era buildings to create a unique skyline and a fascinating blend of history and modernity. The Yangtze River cuts the country in two and its wide, fertile floodplain allowed the development of productive agriculture which in turn led to the beginnings of Chinese civilisation.
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There are, of course, some unmissable sights for any first time visitor to China. Beijing, once home to emperors, acts as a culturesteeped introduction to the country and is an ideal base from which to visit the monumental Great Wall. The ancient capital of Xian is home to the iconic Terracotta Warriors. Guilin’s craggy karst scenery in the southwest is some of the most spectacular in China, with towering limestone peaks looming above the Li River. In this more rural part of the country, life runs at a slower pace, leaving time to relax and enjoy the scenery after the busy, bustling cities. The Dragon’s Backbone rice terraces of Longji are also found in this area; shimmering panoramic terraces which are often shrouded in swirling mist, creating a photographer’s paradise.
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805 kilometres
Hainan Island
The Silk Route (Western China) To the west of Beijing, the great Gobi Desert gives way to the immense mountains and passes of Central Asia. This part of China is predominantly Muslim and you’ll feel as if you are in another country; everything from the language to the food is different this far west. From here, the traders of old journeyed along the Silk Route, crossing continents to bring the mysterious merchandise of China into Europe.
Tibet Tibet can be combined with a trip to central China as there are good flight connections. The Chinese government considers Tibet to be part of China, but we have included it as a separate section as it has its own distinct character, far removed from that of the rest of the country.
Hong Kong Its lively atmosphere and intriguing cultural fusion of East and West has long made Hong Kong a popular destination. Extensively connected to the rest of the world, Hong Kong is a great place to either begin or end your trip.
Ensuring an authentic experience We prefer to find unique, off-the-beatentrack places to offer our clients and, while this is always our aim in China too, we face certain challenges here more than anywhere else in the world. As the Chinese economy increases, so does domestic tourism, in the form of large coaches. Naturally, we offer visits to China’s incredible main sights, but wherever possible we also try to offer a fresh view of these places and the country as a whole. Places in China can become developed extremely quickly. However, we are constantly trying to discover new hidden gems to ensure you have an authentic experience.
www.audleytravel.com/china • 01993 838 220 • China
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Classic China C
hina has developed, over the course of its 5,000 year history, into one of the world’s richest and most sophisticated cultures. It is home to tremendous monuments to great emperors, staggering exhibitions of religious devotion, and arts and crafts of all description that remain, to this day, the pinnacle of man’s creative achievements. As empires have come and gone, China’s borders have expanded and contracted, but constant throughout have been the traditional Chinese heartlands of Beijing and Xian, the scenic splendour of the Yangtze gorges and Guilin, and the modern marvels of Shanghai and Hong Kong. These are the lands where the great philosophers Confucius, Laozi and Zhuangzi expounded their theories on life and governance, shaping society not only in China but across the entire Southeast Asian region. Many of our Classic China trips take in these celebrated destinations, featuring the world-renowned sights of the Great Wall, the Terracotta Warriors and the Forbidden City, with options to see giant pandas, take a cruise on the mighty Yangtze River or relax among the splendid limestone karst peak scenery of the Guilin region.
Audley in Classic China MONGOLIA
As China has developed, the Chinese have become increasingly interested in discovering the sights of their own country. This means that crowds are often inevitable at some of the key sights, such as the Terracotta Army. We can help you to avoid the busiest times and locations, though. For instance, we suggest exploring a less visited section of the Great Wall, and in Xian there are some lesser known burial pits which complement a visit to the Terracotta Army. Using the services of a private guide and driver will also give you the flexibility to avoid large groups of visitors, enabling you to get the most out of your time in China. We use a trusted network of local guides and private transport arrangements as the quality of these services can sometimes be a bit patchy.
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Accommodation We offer a range of accommodation within this part of China, ranging from simple but characterful guesthouses through to luxurious hotels. Most destinations have a good standard of accommodation and new hotels open all the time. In some places the hotels available may be functional Western chains, which are not especially inspiring but are comfortable and well located. In most places, a wider range of accommodation is available. Beijing in particular has some highly attractive traditional-style properties built around historic courtyards, which have changed little in centuries. Shanghai also has a number of boutique hotels, as befits such a globalised city. A number of luxury properties have also opened up, which tend to be located away from city centres to offer a more relaxing stay.
NORTH KOREA
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HONG KONG Hainan Island
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1 The Great Wall One of the world’s greatest feats of construction, the Great Wall is a mighty sight to behold as it snakes through the mountains outside Beijing. See page 13
3 Pingyao Encircled by China’s best preserved original city walls, Pingyao’s ancient architecture is a UNESCO World Heritage site. See page 15
6 Yangshuo’s limestone karst scenery An iconically beautiful landscape of towering peaks cut by the meandering Li River and dotted with rural villages. See page 20
2 The Forbidden City This magnificent structure gives an idea of the unbridled wealth and power of the emperors: a fascinating juxtaposition to the city’s skyscrapers. See page 12
4 The Terracotta Army Discovered by a farmer in the 1970s, this life-size army was intended to help the emperor continue his rule in the afterlife. See page 14
7 The Dragon’s Backbone rice terraces of Longji Glimmering terraces carved into the mountainsides that stretch to the horizon. See page 21
5 Chengdu Panda Research Base See these beautiful creatures in as close to their natural habitat as possible. See page 15
8 Shanghai Cosmopolitan and pioneering yet retaining its colonial character in places, Shanghai is fast-paced and exciting. See page 17
The Forbidden City
www.audleytravel.com/china • 01993 838 220 • China
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The Temple of Heaven, Beijing
Beijing
The Forbidden City
China’s capital is a true microcosm of this captivating country, with all its enthralling contradictions, and is an excellent place to begin your exploration of China’s rich history, scenery and sights. The traditional and ancient sit side-by-side with the modern and urbane, ensuring that this ever-evolving city retains its unique character. The modernist spread of Tiananmen Square, with its monolithic monuments to Communist power, faces that most majestic of sights, the Forbidden City, while the crowds and bustle of the city dissipate in the serene spaces of the Temple of Heaven. The traditional hutongs – narrow, busy backstreets of courtyard properties, which are fast disappearing – retain a charm from dynasties past, while the Olympic Park and contemporary hotels and restaurants tell of a different China. Both offer the chance to immerse yourself in this rich and complex society.
For 500 years this imposing cluster of ancient buildings was off-limits to everyone except the current emperor, his family and concubines, whose home was here throughout the Ming and Qing dynasties. Consequently, the buildings almost ring with demonstrations of wealth and power, from the intricate wooden and marble carvings through to the splendid jewellery on display. The permanent collection of the Palace Museum contains over a million examples of rare or valuable works of art, and vast exhibitions showcase various elements of the Forbidden City’s magnificent past, such as its detailed ceramics or ancient art. The opulent architecture also provides a detailed insight into the curious lives and customs of the past emperors, while the series of almost 1,000 buildings are the largest and best preserved ensemble in China. From the raised marble terrace of the Three Great Halls at the heart of the city to the Gate of Supreme Harmony overlooking a colossal courtyard that could hold audiences of up to 100,000 people, the Forbidden City is staggering in its scale and complexity, and a visit here and to the adjacent Tiananmen Square is a must.
Guardian lion statue in the Forbidden City, Beijing
12
The Forbidden City, Beijing
Cote Cour, Beijing The Cote Cour is a courtyard hotel situated in Beijing’s ancient hutong district. Each of the 14 rooms is beautifully decorated in an ‘East meets West’ fusion of contemporary amenities and traditional architecture and design, and it is structured around a central courtyard set in the style of a Chinese garden. This is one of the more luxurious courtyard properties in Beijing, having been modernised in keeping with the traditional design to maximise character as well as comfort. The roof terrace provides a surprisingly peaceful retreat in the heart of such a modern, buzzing city.
Cote Cour, Beijing
The ancient hutong district, Beijing
Jing Bridge and Kunming Lake at the Summer Palace, Beijing
T'ai chi in the Temple of Heaven Park, Beijing
Yi He Yuan Bridge over Kunming Lake, Beijing
The Temple of Heaven
The Summer Palace
Of exemplary Ming design and built along Confucian lines, the Temple of Heaven originally served as a stage for solemn rites performed to ensure a plentiful harvest for the year to come. While the design of the Temple of Heaven itself is loaded with spiritual symbolism, the park at the temple’s entrance serves as a communal space for Beijing’s citizens to come and exercise, particularly in the early morning, when you will see rows of men and women practising tái chi, playing badminton, dancing or fencing.
This pretty oasis of lakes, gardens, temples and pavilions was a cool retreat for the emperor and the Imperial Court during the hot and dry summer months. While the area was a royal garden for centuries, it was considerably enlarged by the efforts of 100,000 labourers enlisted by Emperor Qianlong in the 18 th century, who carved out the enormous artificial Kunming Lake. Today, the lake is a central focal point lined by pretty teahouses and eateries, its three large islands connected by a series of bridges each with its own distinctive style.
Aman at the Summer Palace, Beijing Situated just next to the fabulous Summer Palace, the Aman’s location ensures a truly tranquil stay. Offering some of the most luxurious and characterful accommodation in Beijing, most of the 43 rooms and suites are housed in a collection of pavilions which date back over a century. The hotel has excellent spa facilities as well as a range of restaurants, and guests can gain exclusive access into the Summer Palace through a private entrance into the grounds. Aman at the Summer Palace combines particularly well with a stay at its sister property in Hangzhou.
The Great Wall The Great Wall winds across China’s landscape, reminding visitors of what enormous power the emperors once held, and the constant threat of invasion they felt. Built to keep out warlike tribes from the north, it is estimated that over two million people died in its construction, which began in the 5th century BC and continued until the 16th century. Our favourite sections of the wall are further out of the city than the more popular areas. Because of this, there are far fewer visitors, making your day a much more personal experience and allowing you to witness the magnificent sight of the original wall snaking into the mountainous distance without hordes obstructing your view.
Aman at the Summer Palace, Beijing
www.audleytravel.com/china • 01993 838 220 • China
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The Terracotta Army, Xian
Xian & the Terracotta Army Xian For centuries the city of Xian (or Chang’An) was the heart of the Chinese Empire and the seat of its most glorious dynasties. The city and surrounding countryside are honeycombed with fascinating archaeological remnants of those peaceful days, but the biggest draw by far remains the Terracotta Army. There are, however, many other reasons to visit Xian. As well as numerous ancient pagodas and the splendid ancient city walls, there is the fantastic Shaanxi History Museum, arguably the best in the country, which houses a remarkable array of artefacts spanning China’s entire history. Being the start point of the ancient Silk Route, Xian also has a significant Islamic community. For a taste of this, you can visit the lively Muslim Quarter, home to the country’s oldest mosque and, in the evenings, rich with the heady aromas of street food stalls.
Food vendor in the Muslim Quarter, Xian
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The Terracotta Army World-renowned for its sheer size and scale, the Terracotta Army was discovered by accident in the 1970s when a farmer began digging a well. Since then, a fraction of the estimated 8,000 soldiers have been uncovered, as well as further chariots, horses and other artefacts. Dating back to 200 BC, the life-size statues, each unique and many mounted on horseback, make an aweinspiring sight in their three excavated pits. The man behind the army was Emperor Qin Shi Huang, the first emperor to unite China in 221 BC. He expected to rule in the afterlife as he had on Earth, and so constructed a huge army to assist him. To understand the historical context of the warriors, there is a short film shown in a purpose-built theatre, which explains how the warriors were made, and a little about the Emperor himself. Hanyangling Tombs The more recently discovered Hanyangling Tombs are a smaller and much quieter attraction than the more famous Terracotta Army. These tombs are from a later emperor, the Emperor Jing, who ruled from 157 to 141 BC. He was notable for being a relatively progressive ruler – lowering taxes, cutting punishments for criminals and using diplomacy
Terracotta horses, Xian
rather than force in foreign relations. His tombs are interesting as they contain more day-to-day artefacts than the Terracotta Army, and as more time was spent on setting the area out as an attraction, it is more visitor-friendly, with glass walkways which take you over the artefacts themselves. There are still many thousands of figurines, some exquisitely carved, though none life-size – perhaps reflecting the decline in power and wealth of this more modest emperor.
Men playing Xiangqi, Chengdu
The Buddha of Leshan, near Chengdu
Curios for sale, Pingyao
The historic streets of Pingyao
Pingyao
Chengdu
Pingyao offers a fantastic contrast to the large and busy cities of Beijing and Xian, as the pace of life here slows to a crawl. Encircled by the best-preserved ancient city walls in China, Pingyao holds UNESCO World Heritage status to protect these walls and the wonderful traditional architecture within. The dusty streets are lined with antiques shops and stalls, along with numerous museums documenting the town’s history: Pingyao was a thriving merchant town during the Ming dynasty and was the home of China’s first bank. Simply wandering the streets here offers a great insight into local Chinese life. Several of the larger buildings, especially the temples, have intricately constructed roof corners designed to offer support to the whole building while maintaining an attractive facade.
The capital of Sichuan province, Chengdu is a surprisingly laid-back city, awash with temples, relaxed teahouses and leafy parks, which are perfect for leisurely walking, people-watching or just whiling away the hours with a book. It is also home to the super-spicy cuisine of Sichuan, specifically a hotpot swimming with chillies. Nearby is the sacred Mount Emei, and the giant Buddha of Leshan, carved into a cliff face above the confluence of two rivers. However, Chengdu’s most famous attraction is also China’s best-loved resident, the panda, found here in the excellent Chengdu Panda Research Base.
Jing’s Residence, Pingyao Jing’s Residence in Pingyao is a Relais & Châteaux property which offers beautiful, traditional accommodation in ancient courtyard buildings, yet with a contemporary flourish of luxury in its decor, comfort and amenities. Set down a small, quiet street and with only 18 rooms, the hotel is exceptionally peaceful, yet only a minute’s walk away from the main streets of Pingyao.
Pandas Forming a natural barrier between the wilderness of the Tibetan plateau and the more developed southern and eastern provinces of China, the bamboo forests of Sichuan’s northern mountain ranges are home to the giant panda. This elusive creature is extremely difficult to spot in the wild. However, only a short drive from Chengdu is the Chengdu Panda Research Base, a fantastic place to get close to both giant and diminutive red pandas. This well-funded research centre focuses on conservation, but has also made great efforts to create a natural landscape for the pandas. Further afield, you can also visit the Bifengxia Panda Reserve or the Wolong Panda Base.
Jing’s Residence, Pingyao
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An acrobatics show in Shanghai
Family China Cookery lessons Most children will have tasted Chinese food and, for older children and teenagers, a Chinese cookery lesson can be a great way to bring something back from your time in China. Chinese cooking is extraordinarily varied, with a range of flavours, ingredients and cooking styles to suit all tastes and skill levels. Lessons are in English, and can also involve a hands-on trip to the local market to choose some ingredients.
Giant panda cubs at play
China may not be the most obvious destination for a family holiday but its unique atmosphere, fascinating culture and high-tech developments mean that there is something of interest for children of all ages. Younger visitors will love the giant pandas lazing around munching their bamboo, while older children can enjoy cycling through the stunning scenery of Yangshuo, visiting the Olympic Park, attending a kung fu show, or perhaps even taking a private tái chi lesson. A family holiday to China is highly recommended and is sure to be memorable. Here we present a few of our favourite family activities, although our specialists will have many more ideas which they will be happy to discuss with you.
Kung fu Kung fu is an ancient skill that has long held a fascination for children (and adults) the world over. We can arrange a trip to an electrifying and incredibly impressive display in either Beijing or Shanghai. For those who want to delve a little deeper into this elegant martial art, we can also arrange kung fu lessons with an English speaking teacher. For the ultimate fan, it’s also possible to visit Shaolin, home to one of the most famous kung fu temples, where monks still teach the martial art to this day.
Cycling in Yangshuo Yangshuo’s spectacular setting among soaring limestone peaks along the meandering Li River cries out for a bit of off-road exploration. This is perhaps best done by bicycle. It takes only a short while to leave the busy town and get out onto the quiet country roads, which in turn lead to pathways through the paddy fields and rustic villages, giving you a fascinating taste of life in rural China. We can arrange for you to be accompanied by a guide, or alternatively it is easy to arrange bike hire locally and hit the trails on your own. Beijing Olympic Park The distinctive Bird’s Nest stadium formed part of the 2008 Beijing Olympic site, and can be visited in its own right today. Nearby you can try out the indoor skiing venue, an experience made all the more memorable when you consider how many world records were set in each stadium.
Kung fu students, Shaolin Temple
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Cycling in Yangshuo
The French Concession, Shanghai
Shanghai skyline
Shanghai Shanghai is an enigmatic place; the most modern of China’s cities, with pioneering contemporary architecture and a strikingly cosmopolitan atmosphere, yet for decades it was a stagnant, forgotten settlement. Today, its towering skyline, excellent restaurants and plethora of high-flying businesses make Shanghai a leader in the modern world. Shanghai also has an interesting colonial history, remnants of which can be found in the 1930s colonial architecture along the iconic waterfront Bund, and in the charming French Concession area.
The Bund, Shanghai
The Peninsula, Shanghai With a prime location on the Bund, The Peninsula is one of Shanghai’s grandest and most luxurious hotels. Offering spectacular views of the Bund, the Pudong skyline across the Huangpu River and the gardens of the former British Consulate, the 235 rooms and suites here are among the largest in the city.
The Astor House, Shanghai The Astor House is a good value, characterful hotel located just off Shanghai’s famous Bund and reflecting the city’s colonial past. Each of the 130 rooms is unique, and many famous people have stayed here. One floor is dedicated to a small museum explaining the building’s past.
The Astor House, Shanghai
The French Concession Shanghai was little more than a fishing village until Western trade with China really started to take off in the 19 th century. Following the infamous Opium Wars, a weakened China allowed a number of foreign powers, including the French, to open free-trade concessions. During the early 20 th century, the concession developed into the premier residential district of the city, with grand villas and leafy boulevards. These days the French are long gone, but the area retains a laid-back feel and hosts a number of boutique hotels and restaurants. Its lantern-lit avenues and numerous cafes and restaurants make it a charming place to stroll in the evenings.
The Bund The Peninsula, Shanghai
The Yangtze Boutique Hotel, Shanghai The Yangtze Boutique Hotel is located just off People’s Square, close to Nanjing Road, Shanghai’s main shopping boulevard, and is approximately a 30 minute walk from the Bund. Its stylish decor is in a 1920s colonial style and each of the hotel’s 96 rooms is elegantly furnished in an Art Deco design. The hotel has a gym and spa, and two restaurants offering different international cuisines.
The Bund, the grand embankment along the Huangpu River, was once a place of intense trading and still retains its thrilling spirit of promise and opportunity. The striking 1930s buildings have now been converted into an assortment of high-end restaurants, shops and bars, many of which have fantastic views across the river to the Pudong skyline. It is the architecture of the Bund which makes the street so striking; a combination of Gothic, Baroque and Art Deco styles dominate this riverfront street, making it markedly different from the towering skyscrapers of the rest of Shanghai.
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Canal, Suzhou
Suzhou
Hangzhou
Latticed by its abundant waterways and canals and home to several exquisite landscaped gardens, widely thought of as the most beautiful in China, Suzhou is an enchanting place, only half an hour by bullet train from Shanghai. The ancient streets and tree-lined avenues of the old town are enjoyable to explore although busy, and reflect the small, picturesque water towns which surround Suzhou and Shanghai, such as Tongli and Xitang. Here, ancient stone bridges cross winding canals and old merchants’ houses line narrow cobbled streets, offering a fascinating insight into a bygone China. Some of these towns have been emptied of residents and converted into visitor attractions, but we favour the more authentic villages. Suzhou is known for its rich history of top-quality silk production and weaving.
The gentle rolling scenery around Hangzhou and the greenery of the city itself create a relaxed atmosphere that makes a welcome change from busier towns. The large and scenic West Lake, encircled by willow-lined banks and ancient pagodas, has been immortalised over the centuries by countless Chinese artists. After the frantic bustle of Shanghai or Beijing, this is the perfect place to hire a bike and ride around the lake and into the nearby hills. You can also visit the local tea plantations, which produce some of the finest tea in China.
Amanfayun, Hangzhou
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Amanfayun, Hangzhou Surrounded by tea fields, woodland and bamboo groves, Amanfayun is an ideal place to relax and pamper yourself. Designed in the spirit of an ancient village, each of the 42 rooms, suites and villas is housed in traditionally constructed buildings of wood, clay and earth connected by stone pathways and shaded courtyards. With several delightful restaurants as well as an extensive spa, Amanfayun is the perfect place to unwind. A stay here combines particularly well with time at the Aman Summer Palace in Beijing, the sister property to Amanfayun.
Picking tea, Hangzhou
Huang Shan Its jagged peaks shrouded by swirling mists, Huang Shan is China’s most sacred mountain. A three hour drive from Hangzhou, Huang Shan is increasingly popular with Chinese travellers but a stay on the mountain itself can see the crowds melt away in the evening, leaving the twilight views to yourself. Sunrises here can be truly magnificent, as the light slowly reveals a sea of cloud broken only by the very tips of the mountains. For this reason, Huang Shan has been much admired by Chinese poets and painters throughout history and remains one of the country’s most well-known landscape attractions. The villages surrounding Huang Shan are notably picturesque and provide an excellent opportunity to witness rural country life.
Ploughing the rice fields, Wuyuan
Pottery decorating, Jingdezhen
Huang Shan
Village among terraced fields, Wuyuan
Jingdezhen For centuries Jingdezhen has been the production centre of China’s sought-after porcelain, creating ceramics for everyone from emperors to peasants. Today, it remains an historic kiln town dotted with various museums, galleries and craft shops. However, Jingdezhen is just as well known for its picturesque surrounding villages as its pottery, and the area’s verdant slopes are dotted with attractive ancient settlements whose traditional architecture and centuries-old way of life present a charming view of rural China. Visitors can make their way from Jingdezhen through the settlements towards Wuyuan, then depart for nearby Shanghai for a complete change of pace in this bustling, global city.
Pottery & ceramics The name Jingdezhen is synonymous with china, due to the magnitude of high-quality ceramics which have been produced here throughout the ages, and that found their way to other parts of the world. The area surrounding Jingdezhen is rich in both pottery clay and kaolin, a key mineral in ceramic production. This, along with ample pine wood from surrounding forests to fuel the kilns, allowed the town’s craftsmen to create the finest porcelain. The Chang River then provided the means to ship the ceramics to the rest of China, and
Surrounding villages The luxuriant countryside around Jingdezhen and Wuyuan is home to several small and scenic villages clustered among the undulating hillsides, rivers and valleys. Known for their traditional architecture and picturesque scenes of ancient bridges, winding waterways and narrow, cobbled streets, you can easily spend a tranquil day exploring these idyllic remnants of a lost age where the hypnotic pace of life and customs have remained unchanged for centuries.
Pottery making, Jingdezhen
Ceramics for sale, Jingdezhen
subsequently further afield, establishing Jingdezhen as the porcelain centre of the world. It was the delicate nature and pure white appearance of Jingdezhen chinaware that enticed emperors and Europeans alike, and soon the region became known for the ‘highest-quality porcelain in China’. Ceramics is the only art form which extends across the entire span of Chinese history, its practical yet aesthetic nature reflecting social and technical changes in a unique way. Each period of Chinese history made significant advances in porcelain production technologies, or alterations in style, which has created enormous variation in form and design throughout the ages.
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Karst peaks in Guangxi province
Guilin
Yangshuo & the Li River
Since classical times, the striking karst peak scenery of Guangxi province in the south of China has featured prominently in Chinese art and literature. Guilin has a more laid-back, provincial feel to it than China’s more developed cities, but although the city is pleasant enough, we tend to view it as a gateway to the more spectacular countryside of the surrounding region. Guilin does have a luxurious accommodation option though so if you don’t fancy a smaller, characterful hotel, you can base yourself in a larger property in Guilin and head out on day trips.
Taking a cruise downriver from Guilin remains one of the best ways to see the craggy limestone karst towers rising impressively from the flat paddy fields. The river is increasingly busy nowadays with various cruise boats and private motorboats, but this does not detract from the scenery and this remains a more interesting journey than simply driving. You are likely to see water buffalo bathing in the river and local farmers tending their fields before the town of Yangshuo itself appears, nestled amid the looming karsts. Over the years Yangshuo has become ever more popular and busy, but it is still a wonderfully relaxed town with excellent eateries, market stalls and rooftop cafes that benefit from views of the surrounding landscape.
Life on the Li River, Guilin
Shangri-La, Guilin Guilin’s best hotel, the Shangri-La is set just outside the city centre, its pleasant landscaped gardens stretching down to the banks of the picturesque Li River. The 449 rooms and suites are large and well proportioned, and many have views towards the river and the iconic limestone peaks of the area. There is a wide selection of restaurants, including one serving local spicy Guilin cuisine, as well as indoor and outdoor swimming pools and spa facilities to relax in at the end of the day. The hotel enables a thoroughly relaxing stay with fantastic facilities, all set in a gorgeous landscape. Zhuang minority woman, near Guilin
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We recommend choosing accommodation out of the town itself to escape the crowds (and evening noise), and there are various options. This is a great place to base yourself to explore the rural countryside, which can be done by bike, car or on foot. Evenings can be spent watching cormorant fishermen at work or enjoying the spectacular local sound and light show, choreographed by Zhang Yimou, who directed the opening ceremony of the 2008 Beijing Olympics.
Chengyang’s wind and rain bridge, near Longji
Harvesting chillies, Longji
Local man, near Guilin
Rice terraces, Longji
Longji
The Li River Retreat, Yangshuo
The Li River Retreat, Yangshuo The Li River Retreat is a small, privately owned hotel situated on the river’s edge just outside Yangshuo. This peaceful setting allows guests to enjoy the spectacular scenery in more tranquil surrounds than the town can offer. The hotel has a rooftop patio with wonderful views, a restaurant and bike hire facilities. The 19 rooms are all a good size and decorated with quintessentially Chinese carved wooden furniture. The Li River Retreat is perfectly situated for exploring the countryside and is a great base for riverside walks or heading into the local paddy fields and ancient villages.
Only two hours’ drive north of Guilin sits the Dragon’s Backbone of Longji, a region of ancient rice terraces which offers an awe-inspiring location to experience Zhuang minority culture at first hand. Spending a night in a small village which clings to the mountainside is a great way to experience a traditional, rural way of life. You’ll see old women drying chillies on the edge of paths through the rice terraces, men and women barefoot amid the rice, and stacks of dried sweetcorn cobs ready for burning as fuel come winter. Longji is becoming popular with local tourists so guesthouses are cropping up all over the village and construction work is now not uncommon, but the panoramic views of glistening terraces stretching through the mountains cannot fail to impress. Guided walks of all lengths can be organised through the terraces and villages that dot the hillsides.
It is also possible to do day trips from Longji to other, more rural, destinations within northern Guangxi province. Chengyang is a pretty, unspoilt village only a few hours’ drive from Longji, which is known for its attractive scenery and beautiful Dong minority wind and rain bridge, so called because it protects people from the elements. A cluster of eight hamlets lie amid the fields and mountains around this area, each of which is worth visiting for its traditional wooden architecture and the chance to see Dong minority customs.
Lian Lodge, Longji With unrivalled views across the rice terraces, Lian Lodge’s position high in the mountains offers guests vistas of the Dragon’s Backbone at its best. The Lian Lodge has just 16 rooms, each individually decorated with a unique theme such as Four Seasons, Celadon Porcelain and Calligraphy. The hotel is owned by a professional photographer whose style and talent are evident throughout in the excellent photos and unusual collection of artefacts which depict Chinese rural life.
Lian Lodge, Longji
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Qutang Gorge
Wu Gorge
Xiling Gorge
Ya ng tz
Three Gorges Dam
Yichang
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Fengdu Chongqing
A local ferry on the Yangtze
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100 miles
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Basket weaving, Yangtze River
Cruising on the Yangtze Taking a cruise on the monumental Yangtze River is a great way to break up your travels through China with some time to relax, soak up the scenery, and try to digest what you’ve already seen. While some boats travel all the way between Chongqing and Shanghai, we recommend sticking to the shorter, three night route between Chongqing and Yichang as this stretch holds by far the best of the area’s scenery, culminating in the spectacular Three Gorges as you journey closer to Yichang. There are upstream routes, but we feel that travelling downstream offers you the best experience.
Buddhist grotto, near Chongqing
Chongqing Gateway to the Yangtze, Chongqing has developed into a vast, sprawling city. While it is not especially attractive in itself, there are some beautifully preserved Buddhist grottoes in the vicinity which are good to visit for those with a little time in hand before boarding their Yangtze cruise. Chongqing hotpot is the local delicacy, a spicy dish adored by the locals.
Fengdu The ‘Ghost City’ of Fengdu takes its name from two officials in the Han dynasty who arrived here to teach and practise Taoism and subsequently became so good that they transcended life and became immortal. There are a number of temples here, making it a good place to learn more about Taoism. The Three Gorges The scenic highlight of the cruise, the Three Gorges of Qutang, Wu and Xiling are all markedly different. Qutang is the first you approach if travelling downstream; at eight kilometres long it is the shortest, but arguably the most striking. At its narrowest it is just 100 metres wide, and the enormous rock faces on either side are dramatic and imposing. Wu (‘witches’) gorge is more verdant, with the jagged peaks often hidden in a swirling, atmospheric mist. Xiling is the longest and least spectacular, but was the most dangerous of the three before the river was tamed. Glowing beacons remain on the banks to warn captains away from the shallows. After these gorges you arrive at the Three Gorges Dam, the world’s longest dam, largest hydroelectric power station, and possibly the most controversial dam project ever undertaken. You can witness the sheer scale of this structure from a viewing platform and visitor centre.
All the boats we use are of good standard with reasonably-sized en suite cabins. Shore excursions are in groups, led by local guides.
Sanctuary Yangzi Explorer
Sanctuary Yangzi Explorer One of the smallest and most luxurious Yangtze boats, the Yangzi Explorer carries just 124 guests. Each of the 62 cabins is spacious (for a river boat) and all have a balcony. On-board facilities include a spa, gym, theatre, sauna, bar and observation deck, plus various programmes which include t’ai chi and cookery classes.
MV Selina, Victoria Cruises
Victoria Cruises
Village on the banks of the Yangtze
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Guide to the boats
The American-managed Victoria Cruises offer sailings most days of the week that are excellent value for money. Their seven boats range in size, carrying from 198 to 378 passengers, and each is well managed with a range of optional on-board activities. All cabins have balconies.
Tulou houses
Man outside his Tulou home
Further inland from Xiamen lies Yongding, heartland of the Hakka people whose astonishing earthen Tulou houses are well worth a visit. Large and circular, these enormous houses were built to house entire clans and protect them from wild animals and outlaws – despite their walls being built of mud, rice and bamboo strips. There are 20,000 of these structures still in existence, dotted around the rolling farmland and hills of the most remote parts of southwestern Fujian province. About 3,000 of these are known as ‘Fujian Tulou’ and are protected by UNESCO World Heritage Site status. These Tulou were built
Inside a Tulou house
between the 12th and 20 th centuries. Some are still lived in today, although many of their former residents have since favoured more modern housing in nearby towns. However, people flock back to their Tulou houses during festivals for family reunions, which cements the traditional concept of the Tulou as a communal living space.
Tulou buildings
View over Gulangyu Island
Xiamen & Gulangyu Island Xiamen’s old colonial buildings, well-kept streets and lively waterfront district give the city a unique charm. Founded in the early years of the Ming dynasty, around the 14th century, Xiamen was established as a major seaport and commercial hub. Its character changed dramatically in the 17th century when Ming rulers fleeing the Manchu invaders transformed Xiamen into a base for the resisting Ming armies. Not
until the Opium Wars did the port reopen to foreigners and Xiamen was re-established as a trade port. Nowadays, the old part of town is the most interesting, where visitors can wander through the winding streets and colonial architecture, exploring Xiamen’s many parks while enjoying the views out to Gulangyu Island. The island is a relaxing retreat of meandering, maze-like lanes, colonial villas and attractive gardens. Accessed by a ten-minute boat ride from Xiamen, it can be visited just as a day trip, although there are a number of pretty boutique hotels here which make an overnight stay an appealing option.
Hainan Island
Hainan Island
One of the very few seaside resorts in China, Hainan is on the same latitude as the north of Vietnam and is seen by the Chinese as their very own Hawaii. It benefits from pleasingly warm temperatures for most of the year, although it is subject to occasional rain showers throughout the summer. The beaches here are clean and sandy and there are a number of resorts, each with their own private beach as well as swimming pools and restaurant complexes. Developed at breakneck speed, Hainan has consequently lost much of its charm, but for those looking for a beach resort break at the end of a trip it is a good option and is easily accessed by plane from most cities in mainland China. Nanputuo Temple, Xiamen
Gulangyu Island, Xiamen
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Shanghai skyline
China’s art & technology Though China is, for the most part, known for its great ancient civilisation and remarkable monuments from an earlier era, modern China is equally impressive in its cultural progression. Parts of Beijing and Shanghai in particular are among the most modern, technologically advanced cities in the world, which creates an interesting juxtaposition with the rural, less developed areas of the country. This distinction is a key theme for many of China’s artists, and some of the world’s most cutting-edge art, architecture, design and engineering can be found here, highlighting China’s marvellously contrasting nature.
Bullet train, Pingyao
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Bullet trains & the Maglev Shanghai’s Maglev train speeds between the city centre and the airport at an impressive top speed of 431 kilometres per hour, and now high-speed routes are expanding throughout the rest of China’s transport system. It is now possible to travel between many of the major cities in China in a matter of just a few hours, rather than the arduous 12 hour or more journey times of before. One of China’s longest continuous train lines opened in 2012, running 2,298 kilometres from Beijing in the north all the way to Guangzhou in the south. The bullet trains don’t quite match the speed of Shanghai’s Maglev (short for ‘magnetic levitation’), but at 300 kilometres per hour they allow visitors to traverse the country’s vast distances quickly and in relative comfort, perusing the landscape as it passes and without having to spend hours in airports. A select few trains have the added bonus of having a ‘panoramic’ carriage, with glass ceilings to maximise the view as you whizz across the country.
Gallery in the 798 Art District, Beijing
Mural in the 798 Art District, Beijing
Sculpture in the Olympic Park, Beijing
798 Art District, Beijing Beijing’s thriving modern art movement is becoming increasingly significant on the world stage. Perhaps the most well-known of China’s artists in recent times is Ai Weiwei. His works include the installation Sunflower Seeds in the Tate Modern in London, which has since been exhibited around the world, but he is by no means China’s only internationally recognised artist. In a vast industrial complex built in the 1950s as a joint military-industrial venture between East Germany, China and Russia, the 798 art community has taken over the complex’s factories and warehouses which closed after the removal of state subsidies. Today, this former industrial estate is home to hundreds of galleries, lofts and studios, as well as the associated upmarket boutiques and cafes. Various Mao slogans from when the factory area was used by Communist work units have been kept throughout the buildings at the resident artists’ request, as an ironic twist to the space. In keeping with the communal spirit of the area, most galleries do not charge visitors an entrance fee, instead supporting themselves through profitable fashion shows and corporate events.
1933 building, Shanghai
1933, Shanghai An up-and-coming artists’ area in the heart of Shanghai, 1933 is located in what used to be a large, open, vaguely maze-like butchers’ slaughterhouse built entirely of concrete. The space has now been taken over by artists’ studios, galleries, cafes, boutiques and restaurants which are well worth a visit, although the architecture is striking in itself. Designed by British architects and built in 1933 by Chinese developers, the airy concrete atrium is open to the sky, although the view upwards is criss-crossed by numerous concrete walkways leading to the different levels. If you can manage to navigate your way to the very top of the building, the roof terrace offers a surprisingly quiet retreat from which you can see a completely different side of Shanghai.
The Beijing Olympic Park The futuristic designs of the 2008 Beijing Olympic Park buildings are unlike any in the world, let alone in China, and have won international renown for the architects involved. Chinese visitors to the capital flock to the Olympic Village to marvel at these masterpieces of modern architecture. While decidedly 21st century in design, some of the buildings nevertheless still offer a nod to Chinese traditions and heritage – the stadium’s shape has been likened to a bird’s nest, in homage to that special delicacy of Chinese cuisine. A visit to the Olympic Park can be easily combined with a trip to the Summer Palace, or you can spend longer here to visit the ski stadium nearby.
The Bird’s Nest stadium
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Views over Huang Shan
Tailoring your trip
When to go
The itineraries shown are designed to give you a flavour of what is possible, and are routes that work particularly well. We can use these as a basis to plan your trip or can design a completely different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests. Please call one of our China specialists to start planning your itinerary.
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Men playing Xiangqi, Shanghai
Getting around
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City wall, Xian
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Most visitors to China arrive in one city and leave from another, with Beijing, Shanghai and Hong Kong being the major entry and exit points, although there are a few others. We generally structure an itinerary starting in the north and working south, or vice versa. Once in China, its vast size usually necessitates flying between the different regions, although the high-speed train network is gradually increasing, linking more cities and lessening the need for domestic flights. China’s domestic airlines have been transformed in recent years and though schedules remain a little unreliable, the quality of the aircraft, service and overall experience have improved immeasurably.
Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year.
As China is so huge, with such a wide range of climates, it is possible to visit at any time. Spring, April and May, and autumn, September and October, are generally recognised as the best times of year to visit in terms of climate, as this is when you are most likely to have clear skies and comfortable temperatures, although a little rain is still possible. In summer, July and August, sites can be busy and very hot and humid, especially in the south. Winter, December to February, is cold, especially in the more northerly cities of Beijing and Xian, although skies are often clear and some of the sites can be virtually empty. Time difference: GMT+7 hours
Prices We offer trips to cater for a wide range of budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices for your trip to China on our website; alternatively please call our specialists to discuss your plans.
Suggested itineraries Beijing
Beijing
Xian
Beijing
Xian
Xian
Shanghai
Shanghai Yichang
Chengdu Chongqing
Guilin
Longji
Guilin
Yangshuo
Longji
Yangshuo Hong Kong
Classic China
Family China
Yangtze River Classic
This two week itinerary takes in some of the classic sights of China. As well as seeing some of China’s world-famous sights such as the Great Wall and the Terracotta Warriors, you’ll also take in the beautiful scenery of the Guilin area, and get a taste of life in rural China in the village of Longji.
This itinerary is perfect for those travelling as a family. Taking in some of the key cultural sites, you can also enjoy more experience-based excursions such as cycling in Beijing’s hutongs, learning kung fu, or having a cookery lesson.
This itinerary combines China’s classic sights of Beijing, Xian and Shanghai with a journey along the great Yangtze River. A cruise on the Yangtze is a great way to break up the journey and contemplate some of the world-class sites that you will have seen at the start of your trip.
Day 1 Day 1
Day 2
Arrive in Beijing. In the afternoon visit the Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square. See the Temple of Heaven and Summer Palace.
Day 3
Leave the city to see one of China’s iconic sites, the Great Wall.
Day 4
In the morning take the high-speed train to Xian then visit the Muslim Quarter in the evening.
Day 5
Day 2
Head out to Xian’s star attraction, the Terracotta Army, before flying to Guilin in the afternoon.
Day 6
Take a cruise down the Li River to the pretty town of Yangshuo.
Day 7
Spend the day exploring Yangshuo.
Day 8
Head to the village of Longji in the Dragon’s Backbone rice terraces.
Day 9
After a walk among the rice terraces, return to the airport and fly to Shanghai.
Day 10
A day in Shanghai.
Day 11
Continue to explore Shanghai.
Day 12
Head to the airport for your onward flight.
Day 1
Spend the morning visiting the Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square before exploring the hutongs by bicycle.
Arrive in Beijing. Visit the magnificent Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square after recovering from your flight.
Day 2
Explore the Temple of Heaven and in the afternoon visit the Summer Palace.
Day 3
Head out of the city to see the iconic Great Wall.
Day 4
Take the high-speed train to Xian in the morning, then explore Xian’s Muslim Quarter in the evening.
Day 5
See the incredible Terracotta Army in the morning before flying to Chongqing to begin your Yangtze cruise.
Day 3
See the Great Wall of China.
Day 4
Visit the Temple of Heaven in the morning and in the afternoon spend time at the Sony ExploraScience Centre, an interactive science and technology museum. Watch a kung fu show in the evening.
Day 5
Take the high-speed train to Xian in the morning, then cycle around the ancient city walls.
Day 6
Head to Xian’s star attraction, the Terracotta Army. Fly to Chengdu.
Day 7
Visit Chengdu’s Panda Research Base in the morning and one of the city’s parks in the afternoon.
Days 6-7 Float down the Yangtze and enjoy the beautiful scenery. Day 8
Arrive in Yichang, from where you fly on to Shanghai.
Day 8
See the Leshan Buddha before flying to Guilin.
Day 9
Explore the global metropolis of Shanghai.
Day 9
Take a cruise down the Li River to Yangshuo, then explore some of the surrounding countryside by bike.
Day 10
A final day at leisure in Shanghai.
Day 11
Return to the airport for your onward flight from Shanghai.
Day 10
Stay longer If you have more time, you could spend a few nights in Hong Kong. Alternatively, add on time in Chengdu to see the pandas or extend your stay in beautiful Yangshuo.
Arrive in Beijing with time to relax after your flight.
Learn about Chinese cookery in the morning or perhaps enjoy a kung fu lesson. Spend the afternoon bamboo rafting on the Yulong River.
Day 11
Drive to the mountainside village of Longji.
Day 12
Spend the morning walking among the rice terraces before driving back to Guilin for your flight to Hong Kong.
Day 13
Spend the day exploring Hong Kong before your onward flight.
Stay longer With a few more nights you could explore the beautiful scenery of the Guilin region, or perhaps travel to Chengdu to see the pandas.
Comorant fisherman, Li River
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Yunnan & Guizhou I
n the southwest corner of China lie Yunnan and Guizhou provinces, known for their spectacular landscapes, diverse ethnic groups and ancient villages. Yunnan stretches from the far south, where its subtropical lands border Laos, Burma and Vietnam, right up into the dramatic foothills of the Himalaya. Here, Zhongdian, one of the northernmost towns, sits at 3,200 metres and the majority of the population is Tibetan. Yunnan’s striking mountain scenery makes it a fascinating place to explore, as do its towns and villages with their lively local markets frequented by different native minorities in traditional clothing. Guizhou is one of China’s poorest provinces, with only a small fraction of its land available for agriculture. The rest is covered in towering karst peaks and vast mountains, home to intricate cave networks and abundant waterfalls. The real draw of Guizhou, however, is its ethnic mosaic of people with their colourful traditional dress, interesting customs and numerous vibrant festivals. In rural Guizhou, life is as far removed as it can be from life in the country’s rich cities.
Audley in Yunnan & Guizhou
TIBET
Yangtze
SICHUAN
Zhongdian
1
Lake Lugu
2 Lijiang
Tiger Leaping Gorge
GUIZHOU
4
3
Guiyang
Shaxi
CHINA
Dali ko Me
We have been visiting Yunnan for years and have watched as some of the key places become more popular, especially with Chinese visitors. While we still do recommend visiting these places for their unique charm and spectacular beauty, after all, they are popular for a reason, our expert knowledge will ensure that you are able to truly get under the skin of this intriguing and utterly beautiful part of China, and visit places a little more off the beaten track. For this reason we also began to explore neighbouring Guizhou, whose colourful ethnic minorities and dramatic scenery had long fascinated us. Guizhou’s infrastructure reflects its poverty and it is much less developed than anywhere else in China, but its tiny, picturesque villages, captivating customs and festivals, and magnificent scenery make it impossible not to recommend to Audley clients. Like Yunnan, certain places are being heavily developed, but we try to steer clear of these and instead suggest hidden, and more authentic, rural experiences.
ng
Kaili
Rongjiang
Zhaoxing
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Kunming YUNNAN GUANGXI
Jianshui
0
100 miles
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161 kilometres
5 MYANMAR
Yuanyang VIETNAM
Jinghong
Sapa
Lao Cai
Xishuangbanna
3 Shaxi This small and sleepy village was once a stop on the Tea Horse Road. See page 31
Accommodation This part of China has a number of small, characterful guesthouses which reflect the local architecture and decorative style of the area. These are all clean and comfortable with en suite facilities, but do not offer the full range of hotel services. At the other end of the scale, there are some extremely luxurious hotels for those looking to indulge themselves. The accommodation in remote areas of Guizhou is understandably fairly simple, so for this reason we tend to recommend basing yourself in one of the larger settlements and exploring from there, to make use of the better accommodation options.
HUNAN
Zhenyuan
Songzanlin Monastery, Zhongdian 1 Zhongdian Here you can experience Tibetan culture through the ancient monasteries and local yak butter tea, and hike through valleys and grasslands in the foothills of the Himalaya. See page 33
4 Lijiang A charming Naxi minority town set around cobbled alleys and waterways. See page 31 5 Yuanyang rice terraces
These vast rice terraces provide a striking panoramic vista created and farmed by the local Hani minority. See page 34
6 Zhaoxing This traditional Dong minority village holds five ancient Drum Towers and various wooden wind and rain bridges. Ancient customs have lingered here and some villagers continue to wear traditional dress. See page 39
Wooden villages & ancient culture The numerous picturesque minority villages in this part of China are known for their wooden architecture and beautiful crafts, from paper to embroidery and silversmithing.
2 Tiger Leaping Gorge One of the world’s deepest gorges. It is possible to visit as a day trip or tackle on a two day hike. See page 32 A wind and rain bridge, Zhaoxing
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South Gate, Dali old town
Kunming
Dali
Dubbed the ‘City of Eternal Spring’ because of its mild year-round climate, Kunming is one of the entry and exit points for your visit to Yunnan province. It is a pleasant enough city and is renowned for its delicious noodles and delightful teahouses, but we recommend just passing through Kunming in favour of the more spectacular destinations in the north and south of the province. For those who do have time to spend here, there are some bustling regional markets and, just south of the city, a bizarre landscape of strange rock formations known as the Shilin Stone Forest. This is extremely popular however, so can be busy.
Nestled in between Lake Erhai and the Cangshan Mountains at the start of the Himalayan foothills, you find the town of Dali. As capital of the great Bai kingdom of Nanzhao from the 8 th and into the 10 th century, and capital of the Dali Kingdom from 937 to 1253, this city ruled over much of the surrounding region until the invasion of the Mongol Empire. Although its significance has waned, the area has retained a wealth of traditional Bai architecture surrounded by pretty scenery.
Shilin Stone Forest
30
The old town of Dali is set around various small waterways lined by drooping willows and overlooked by the Three Pagodas, a beautiful Buddhist site which has somehow survived earthquakes, landslides, revolution and modernisation for well over a thousand years. The four gate towers on the old city walls are the location of various markets which are congregation points for local villagers from the surrounding countryside. Nearby, on Dali’s fertile plain, the small town of Xizhou is a fantastic example of Bai architecture and culture, its marvellous market bright with Bai people beautifully attired in colourful traditional costume.
Rooftop terrace, Linden Centre, near Dali
Linden Centre, near Dali Located in the small Bai village of Xizhou, the Linden Centre is a unique place to stay. Set in a traditional Bai house around a number of courtyards filled with plants, flowers and ponds, the 15 rooms are decorated with designs inspired by Bai culture. Away from the centre of Dali, you can really get a feel for a different side of China in this small, tranquil village. There is a pleasant rooftop terrace with views over the surrounding countryside. The Linden Centre also offers various cookery courses.
Vegetable market, Dali
Shoe shop, Shaxi
The Three Pagodas, Dali
Chinese pavilion, Lijang
Lijiang and Jade Dragon Snow Mountain
Lijiang
Three Terraced Pavilion, Shaxi
Shaxi As you travel through Yunnan you will often find villages unchanged for centuries, sleepy market towns and idyllic rural scenes. Among these villages, Shaxi stands out. Once an important stopping point on the ancient Tea Horse Road, the village grew rich during the 14th century Ming Dynasty, and many of the village buildings date from this time. The pace of life here is reassuringly slow and perhaps the best way to spend your time is to meander through the cobbled alleys in the morning, marvelling at the mud-brick houses and Buddhist temple in the village square as villagers lead their oxen out to the fields for the day’s work. Friday’s market sees a plethora of different minorities trek into town to sell their wares and stock up on provisions. Accommodation here is simple; there are a handful of small, traditional guesthouses, and the food at each is home-cooked and excellent.
Beneath the snowy peaks of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain lies the old town of Lijiang, whose cobbled streets are lined with waterways. This region is the home of the Naxi people, whose culture combines shamanism with a unique pictographic alphabet. Originally an area of wild forest, Lijiang sprang into life as a meeting point for those visiting the nearby village of Baisha, once the capital of the Naxi Kingdom. This meeting point grew into a village and market, which expanded in scale to become a trading centre and a key point on the ancient Tea Horse Road. The area surrounding Lijiang provides a stunning backdrop rich in forest, mountain and wetland environments, which support wildlife including black-necked cranes. This remarkably wellpreserved old town is popular with Chinese visitors and can become extremely crowded, but for good reason, as the town is superbly picturesque and the surrounding villages are well worth a visit. The town and its distinctive Qing dynasty architecture, typified by the beautiful sloped slate tile roofs, is protected by UNESCO World Heritage status, which helps to maintain the town’s buildings.
Banyan Tree, Lijiang
Banyan Tree, Lijiang Situated just outside Lijiang at the base of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Banyan Tree offers a restful, tranquil base for exploring the delights of the town. There are 124 rooms and suites set in beautiful private villas which are inspired by local Naxi culture. Many have their own plunge pools and private gardens with views towards the mountains. There is a well-equipped spa, as well as a good choice of Chinese and Western restaurants. The centre of Lijiang is easily reached by taxi.
Naxi pictographic script
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Tiger Leaping Gorge
Tiger Leaping Gorge
Lake Lugu
One of the deepest gorges in the world, the 16 kilometre long Tiger Leaping Gorge forces its way dramatically through the towering Haba Mountains to the west and the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain to the east. According to legend, a tiger once leapt across the gorge, which is only 30 metres wide at its narrowest point. The two day trek through the gorge allows visitors to explore this striking area in greater depth, although the walk should not be taken lightly, as you hike at around 2,600 metres on paths which are at times both steep and narrow. Staying overnight in a local guesthouse in the centre of the gorge itself is an unforgettable experience, surrounded as you are by such formidable mountains, with the ferociously rushing water of the Jinsha River below.
The serene Lake Lugu lies at 2,685 metres, where the air is clear and the views pristine. The lake is home to the Mosu people, one of the world’s last practising matrilineal societies, in which property passes down the female line, business decisions are generally made by the woman of the house and the woman is the head of the household. Political power, however, remains with men. There are numerous villages dotted around the lake, which are becoming popular with Chinese visitors. We suggest staying in one of the quieter villages, where there are simple guesthouses with en suite facilities. Once here, there are a number of gentle walks to other Mosu villages in the area as well as local markets to visit.
The Halfway Lodge, Tiger Leaping Gorge Situated in the middle of the gorge, the lodge has 12 guest rooms and is set at the halfway point of your two day trek. Accommodation here is basic, as you might expect from such a remote location, but the outside dining area has fantastic views over the gorge and is the perfect place to relax and watch the sun go down after a hard day’s walk.
Lake Lugu
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Mosu woman, Lake Lugu
Accessed from Lijiang by a long and winding mountain road with spectacular views along the way, this remote area is a wonderful place to simply relax and take in the beautiful views.
Zhongdian old town
Songzanlin Monastery, Zhongdian
Prayer wheel, Zhongdian
Zhongdian Zhongdian is one of the northernmost towns in Yunnan province, in an area which used to lie within the borders of Tibet. Consequently, the town is mainly populated by Tibetan people, with their language and culture predominant in the area. Sitting at an altitude of 3,160 metres, Zhongdian is blessed with quite spectacular scenery and is surrounded by soaring, snowcapped mountains and grasslands with grazing yak. Rebuilt using traditional methods after a fire, the old town is an attractive jumble of cobbled alleys and local craft workshops. At its heart is a small hill topped by an enormous revolving prayer wheel from where you can see the numerous stupas and prayer flags which adorn the town. Songzanlin Monastery is the largest Lamaist monastery outside Tibet, and is also known as the ‘Little Potala Palace’. Three hundred years old and home to around 650 monks, the monastery dominates the skyline on the outskirts of the town, and overlooks a small Tibetan village and a picturesque lake.
Songtsam Hotel, Zhongdian Set at the foot of the Songzanlin Monastery, the Songtsam Hotel is a delightful place to stay. Furnished in traditional Tibetan style and serving Tibetan, Chinese and Western food, the hotel allows you to experience true Tibetan hospitality. Many of the 18 rooms have views across the mountains and lake, and there are a library lounge and top-floor terrace for guests to enjoy the magnificent surroundings.
Songtsam Hotel, Zhongdian
Walking & trekking around Zhongdian Zhongdian has some fantastic hiking opportunities. The area is recognised among botanists for its glorious plant life and during the rainy season (May to September), it bursts into a riot of colourful rhododendrons and irises. This plant life adds an extra dimension to the various excellent lowerlevel walks through the valleys and forests. For those after more strenuous activity, the mountains offer day or multi-day hikes which wind up through forests and meadows to the peaks themselves. The views make the effort more than worthwhile, with the mountains of Tibet visible in clear weather.
Walking is a great way of experiencing a bit more of Tibetan culture, as you will often pass through small villages, where you may even be invited in for a cup of yak butter tea, which is something of an acquired taste. Those embarking on overnight hikes will stay in a small and simple village guesthouse.
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Rice terraces, Yuanyang
Jianshui
Chaoyang Gate, Jianshui
Southern Yunnan South of Kunming, the landscape becomes dramatically different from the steep ravines and soaring peaks of the north. The further south you travel, the warmer it becomes, as the altitude decreases and you enter the subtropical climes of Southeast Asia. Here, you’ll find humid rainforests and large stretches of rice terraces, as well as numerous ethnic minorities with distinct language and cultural differences. The tropic of Cancer cuts right through southern Yunnan, meaning that the temperatures are generally hot, while moisture from the Indian Ocean brings monsoonal rains. 34
Best known for its traditional architecture and enormous Confucian temple, Jianshui is a large and increasingly modernised town, yet has a plethora of interesting historical sites. Most streets have at least one significant traditional structure, but the main attractions of Jianshui are the imposing Chaoyang Gate, the stately Confucian temple, the intricately worked wooden monastery of Zhilin Si and the attractive Zhu Family Gardens. However, one of the charms of visiting Jianshui is simply wandering through the streets, soaking up the laid-back atmosphere and meeting the friendly local people. Jianshui’s history dates back to the Western Jin period when it was under the auspices of the Nanzhao Kingdom, after which it was handed around to other authorities before playing a prominent role in the Chinese Revolution in 1911. Several ethnic minorities such as Dai, Hui and Yi live in the surrounding area, giving plenty of opportunities to gain an insight into the people and cultures of this unique part of China.
Hani woman, Yuanyang
Yuanyang In the very south of Yunnan you will find one of China’s most dramatic landscapes, with sculpted rice terraces clinging to the undulating hillsides, and in the right conditions, their glittering waters dancing with brilliant reflected sunlight. This is the remote area of Yuanyang, home to the Hani people whose distinctive triangular thatched homes are clustered in fascinating villages. The small town of Yuanyang, which is also known as Xinjie, hosts a market every five days when local Hani, Miao, Yi and Yao minorities visit from nearby villages. Perched upon the Ailao mountain range, Yuanyang’s ancient rice terraces are among the world’s most impressive. Consequently, the area is well known among photographers. Sunrises are particularly spectacular here, when the terraces are the only sight visible above the morning mists.
Market vendor, Xishuangbanna
Tea and sugarcane growing, Xishuangbanna
Jinuo woman, Xishuangbanna
Xishuangbanna Characterised by tropical rainforests, rice terraces and plantations of coffee, fruit and rubber, the Dai minority state of Xishuangbanna is markedly different from northern Yunnan, let alone the rest of China. It is a hugely fertile region and its large swathes of rainforest mean that it also has a high biodiversity. Xishuangbanna has the highest concentration of ethnic minorities in the whole of China, in part due to its proximity to Southeast Asia, from where many tribes have migrated over the years. Buddhism and animism are the most common religions in the Xishuangbanna area, and there are countless colourful temples to visit as you explore the region. Equally common are the lively Dai minority festivals, most notably the ‘watersplashing festival’ which is held to celebrate the new year and ensure its happiness. Special markets, dragon-boat racing, swimming races, fireworks and, of course, water splashing can be seen during this time.
The Tea Horse Road The Tea Horse Road was the ancient tea trading route from China into Tibet and Burma. Yunnan was one of the first tea producing regions and this network of mule caravan paths, which wound their way through the mountains, carried the produce into central China as well as Burma and on towards India and Tibet. Also traded along this road were salt and Tibetan ponies, exported in exchange for tea. These sturdy ponies were then used in the north, where the Chinese were occupied in fighting warring nomads. The main routes began in southern Yunnan, near Xishuangbanna, and in Sichuan province, both famous teaproducing regions. Pu’er tea is still one of the most highly sought after teas in China, fetching the highest prices, and it is this which is grown in the fertile lands around Xishuangbanna. The Tea Horse Road first became an established trade link at least as long ago as the Song dynasty (960-1279 AD) but its peak was during the late Qing dynasty (1790s to 1911). Nowadays all that remains are a scattering of cobbled lanes linking old market squares and still-thriving tea
The Tea Horse Road through Tiger Leaping Gorge
plantations. For the intrepid traveller it is possible to roughly follow a route that progresses from northern Yunnan through the south and into Burma – or even Laos or Vietnam if you’d prefer to extend your trip in this direction.
Water-splashing festival, Xishuangbanna
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Long Skirt Miao women dancing, Guizhou
Ethnic minorities of Yunnan & Guizhou Residing so close to Burma, Vietnam and Laos, Yunnan and Guizhou support myriad different cultures and are home to more than 40 of the 56 officially recognised ethnic minorities in China. Each minority group is culturally distinct, with its own language, cuisine, customs and festivals, making visits to this southwest corner a fascinating juxtaposition to life in China’s cities. Miao The Miao people predominantly live in the south of China, in hilly or mountainous areas such as Guizhou and Yunnan, as well as in Vietnam (H’Mong people), Thailand (Mong), Burma (Mun Lu-Myo) and Laos. Within the Miao minority group are several distinct sub-groups, such as the Long Horned Miao people, the Long Skirt Miao, the Black Miao, the Flowery Miao and so on. Due to the vast geographical spread of the various Miao groups, these sub-groups tend to have distinct languages, clothing and customs, such that the broad use of the term ‘Miao’ is fairly meaningless. All Miao sub-groups are, however, fond of singing, dancing, colourful art and craftwork, and practise ancestor worship.
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Bai The Bai people are long established in Yunnan around Dali, and used to rule over parts of present-day southwestern China before eventually succumbing to the invading Mongol hordes in the 14th century. Bai means ‘white’ in the Bai people’s language, a colour which they hold in high esteem. Consequently, the traditional Bai costume is comprised of white clothing and decorations, with a red, blue or black jacket, although in recent times Bai people have become known for their tie-dye cloth.
Bai women preparing for a festival, Dali
Naxi Dongba shaman, Lijiang
Naxi woman in Zhongdian, Yunnan
Dong family descend through rice terraces, Guizhou
Tibetan man, Yunnan
Dong woman drying dyed cloth in Zhaoxing, Guizhou
Naxi The Naxi are descended from Tibetan tribes who came to settle in the area around 1,400 years ago. They are centred around the town of Lijiang, but are spread throughout the north of Yunnan and up towards Tibet. Naxi culture is dominated by Dongba shamans who preach harmony between nature and mankind, and who act as mediators between the Naxi and the spirit world.
Dong The Dong people live mainly in eastern Guizhou and are famed for their unique architecture, in particular a form of covered bridge known as a wind and rain bridge. Wooden drum towers form the centre of any Dong village or town and houses are all built from wood, using no nails. Music, in particular singing, plays a very important role in Dong society and is used to commemorate the various stages of life. They are traditionally polytheistic, but today the majority are Taoist or Buddhist.
Until relatively recently, the Naxi lived along matriarchal lines, and the dominance of women is still evident in their language.
Mosu lady, near Lake Lagu
Mosu One of the last matrilineal societies in the world, the Mosu are centred around Lake Lugu on the border between Sichuan and Yunnan provinces. Seen by some as a subset of the Naxi, they nevertheless have their own distinct culture and customs. Property passes through the female line, the woman is the head of the household, and business decisions are generally made by the woman of the house. Political power, however, remains with men, which is why the Mosu are best described as matrilineal rather than matriarchal.
Langde Miao woman’s traditional hairstyle, Guizhou
Tibetan man poses with his yak, Zhongdian
Tibetan Tibetan people are now spread far beyond Tibet’s present-day borders, into Sichuan, Qinghai and Yunnan provinces. In the north of Yunnan, around the city of Zhongdian (or Gyalthang in Tibetan) and beyond, Tibetans form the majority. You will see signs in Tibetan, Chinese and English up here, but the language most widely spoken is Tibetan. There is a devoutness of belief to be found among the Tibetans that is rarely found elsewhere in Yunnan, let alone China. Monasteries and stupas abound, especially in the countryside, and monks are to be seen everywhere.
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Dazhai village, Damochong Valley
Guiyang Guiyang is the capital of Guizhou province, a large and sprawling city which is a major transport hub for the province. The city itself has nothing of particular note to offer visitors, although there are some interesting areas and excellent food to be had – incredibly spicy chicken is a local speciality. The street food stalls and night markets which pepper the city are great places to try local delicacies.
Kempinski Hotel, Guiyang Conveniently located in the heart of the city centre, and within walking distance of the Nanming River, the Kempinski offers some of the best accommodation in Guizhou province. Its 366 rooms are of good size and are well appointed. The hotel’s facilities include two restaurants, a spa and a pool, perfect for relaxing in comfort after a long day exploring the surrounding minority villages.
Liuguan
Guiyang is also an excellent place to base yourself for exploring the local minority villages and countryside, as there are rather better hotels here in the capital than in the more rural areas. At an altitude of around 1,100 metres, Guiyang is a good place to acclimatise before travelling on to the higher elevations of the surrounding mountain villages. With a similar climate to Kunming, the capital of Yunnan, Guiyang is known as a ‘spring city’ whose temperatures tend to be mild and pleasant throughout the year, never too hot or too cold. Unlike Kunming, however, Guiyang means ‘precious sun’, which perhaps refers to the near constant cloud which seems to cover the city. The verdant, mountainous landscape of the area invites low-hanging, swirling mist which almost conceals its inhabitants, making the scenery more dramatic as it shifts to reveal startling views.
An ancient village whose inhabitants still dress in traditional Ming dynasty costumes, and whose houses remain faithful to Ming architectural styles, Liuguan is a remnant of old Han culture. The village is famous for its folk opera, for which performers wear intricate symbolic masks.
Damochong Valley Perfect for short hikes to explore some of Guizhou’s picturesque scenery, Damochong Valley is an area of idyllic villages, dense bamboo groves, rushing streams and craggy cliffs. The villages along the way reflect local architectural styles and Dazhai village in particular is an enchanting maze of old wooden houses amid lush paddy fields. Here, ancient working practices have mostly remained the same, with enormous stone wheels for grinding maize and corn and wooden deckles for paper making. Kempinski Hotel, Guiyang
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Drying peppercorns, Dazhai
Wind and rain bridge, Zhaoxing
Dye seller, Kaili
Miao women dressed for a festival, Kaili
Zhaoxing
Kaili
Wugao & Maliao
Almost 200 kilometres east of Guiyang, Kaili is widely recognised as the gateway to the outstanding ethnic minority territory of eastern Guizhou. It is an excellent base from which to explore the surrounding villages, but has little of interest to offer on its own. However, the villages in the immediate vicinity are some of the most fascinating minority communities in Guizhou, with different markets almost every day.
These are two small Miao minority villages which have maintained their distinct Miao culture. Wugao is home to the Long Skirt people, whose elaborate silver headdresses are still forged by silversmiths in this mountainside village. Similarly, Maliao is known in the area for its excellent silverwork creations, a craft which has been passed on from father to son for generations, with very few alterations in technique. Silver jewellery of all sorts is worn by Miao minority women, which is why this traditional craft is still so prevalent in Miao villages and towns throughout Guizhou.
Chong’an Chong’an dates back 400 years, a history which is shown in the town’s three bridges: one from the Manchu period; one from the time when the Kuomintang were in power; and the most recent was built within the last sixty years. Ninety per cent of the population are Miao ethnic minority, although there is also a small sub-group of Gejia people. Incense sticks are something of a speciality of the area, made by local families who grind wood into sawdust to form the stick. It is perhaps most well known, however, for its bustling market which is one of the best in the region, held every five days. Chong’an is also one of the main sites for the Lusheng Festival of the Miao minority, held annually towards the end of the ninth lunar month.
Fruit seller, Zhaoxing
Zhaoxing
Gejia Miao woman, Kaili
Zhaoxing is located deep in the lush hills of Guizhou and is famed for its incredible range of traditional wooden architecture and ancient culture. Most prominent are the five Drum Towers, one built by each of the clans that constitute the largest Dong minority community in China. There are also five bridges here, known as wind and rain bridges for the beautiful array of sculptures that decorate the structures. Most people here speak only their native Dong language. There are a number of excellent walks around Zhaoxing, which take you into the charming countryside, allowing you the opportunity to explore more local villages. www.audleytravel.com/china • 01993 838 220 • China
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Double Dragon Bridge, Jianshui
Guizhou has less defined seasons, although it can be very hot and humid during the summer months of July and August. As with the classic areas of China, the best times to visit tend to be spring, late March to May, and autumn, September and October, which ties in with the majority of the ethnic minority festivals. Depending on where you would like to visit, we will be able to advise you on the best time to travel. Please speak to our specialists for further information.
Tailoring your trip The itineraries shown are designed to give you a flavour of what is possible, and are routes that work particularly well. We can use these as a basis to plan your trip or can design a completely different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests. Please call one of our China specialists to start planning your itinerary.
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Getting around Flights to Yunnan often go through Kunming, the capital of the province, just as flights into Guizhou go to the provincial capital Guiyang. Both cities can be reached by flights from the major hubs in China and also Hong Kong. We recommend the use of a private car with driver in both provinces. Roads within and between the main cities are of good quality, well maintained and smooth. The more remote you get, however, the more the roads deteriorate, especially in Guizhou province where bumpy roads twist and turn as they navigate through and around the mountains.
Rural life, Xishuangbanna
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Time difference: GMT+7 hours
Prices We offer trips to cater for a wide range of budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices for your trip to China on our website, alternatively please call our specialists to discuss your plans.
Miao woman in traditional dress, Lijiang
When to go Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun
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Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
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33 The best time to travel. 3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.
Yunnan has a climate as diverse as its geography. The north of the province tends to receive a lot of rain from May to October and is especially wet from June to mid-September, although this does result in some lush foliage. Zhongdian in the far north can be chilly in the evenings in April and September, and is often snow-bound over the winter months. Visits to Xishuangbanna are possible at any time of year, though the most pleasant time is from November until April.
Wooden buildings, Lijiang
Suggested itineraries china
china china
Zhongdian
Zhongdian Lake Lugu
Tiger Leaping Gorge
Kaili
Shaxi
Lijiang
Shaxi
Tiger Leaping Gorge
Lijiang Guiyang
Dali
Zhaoxing
Lijiang
Shaxi
Guilin
Kunming
Longji
Dali
Dali Kunming
Kunming
vietnam laos
Southwest China: Yunnan’s Mountains & Minorities
Villages of Southwest China
This itinerary takes in some of the key highlights of Yunnan province, visiting Dali, Lijiang and the Tibetan town of Zhongdian, each home to different minority groups.
This fascinating trip takes you to the lesser-visited villages of Guangxi and Guizhou provinces, before flying on to Yunnan province. You’ll see a whole host of different minorities, and get a real taste of life in rural China. While accommodation is basic in some places, you’ll be rewarded by experiencing a side of China that few visitors get to see.
Day 1
Arrive in Kunming and fly or drive to Dali.
Day 2
Explore Dali’s old town, as well as the Three Pagodas, which overlook the town.
Day 3
Take a cable car up the Cangshan Mountains.
Day 4
Drive out to the village of Shaxi, passing through pretty rural countryside on the way.
Day 5
Spend time in the village before driving further north to Lijiang, stopping off at the holy Buddhist mountain of Shibaoshan on the way.
Day 1
Arrive in Guilin.
Day 2
Drive to the pretty village of Longji.
Day 3
After time to explore the spectacular rice terraces, drive to Chengyang to see the famous wind and rain bridge. Continue on to Zhaoxing.
Day 4
Spend the morning walking in the area with your guide. The afternoon is at leisure.
Yunnan Explorer This comprehensive trip around Yunnan is ideal for those who want to really explore this diverse province. Travelling through Kunming, Dali, Lijiang, Lake Lugu and the Tibetan town of Zhongdian, you’ll see many different minorities and a variety of beautiful scenery. Day 1
Arrive in Kunming.
Day 2
Drive or fly to Dali.
Day 3
Spend the day exploring Dali’s old town, as well as the Three Pagodas, which overlook the town.
Day 4
Ascend into the Cangshan Mountains overlooking the town.
Day 5
Drive out to the village of Shaxi. This drive will take you into the countryside, through villages and rice paddies.
Day 6
Spend time in the village before driving further north to Lijiang.
Day 6
Spend the day exploring Lijiang’s old town.
Day 5
Continue further into Guizhou’s wild landscape, stopping at Miao villages.
Day 7
Explore Lijiang’s picturesque old town.
Day 7
Head out into the surrounding area with your guide to explore some local minority villages.
Day 6
Drive to Kaili, stopping at different minority villages along the way.
Day 8
Day 7
Transfer to Guiyang airport and fly to Lijiang.
Head into the surrounding countryside to explore some local minority villages.
Day 9
Day 8
Spend the day exploring Lijiang’s old town.
Drive on to Lake Lugu, a truly beautiful journey.
Day 10
Spend some time around Lake Lugu, visit some minority villages or go walking.
Day 11
Return to Lijiang, retracing your steps.
Day 12
Drive to the village of Qiaotou to start your Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.
Day 13
Finish the trek and drive on to Zhongdian.
Day 14
Visit the Songzanlin Monastery and in the afternoon take a short walk in the hills outside Zhongdian.
Day 15
Explore Zhongdian’s old town.
Day 16
Head to the airport for your onward flight.
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Drive on to Zhongdian, stopping at the spectacular Tiger Leaping Gorge on the way.
Day 9
Visit the Songzanlin Monastery before taking a walk in the hills outside Zhongdian.
Day 9
Head into the surrounding countryside to explore local minority villages.
Day 10
Explore the old town and beautiful surroundings of Zhongdian.
Day 10
Drive from Lijiang to the small village of Shaxi.
Day 11
Head to the airport where you will connect with your onward flight.
Day 11
Explore this sleepy village before driving on to Dali.
Day 12
Spend the day exploring Dali’s old town.
Day 13
Head to Kunming for your onward flight.
Stay longer The town of Yangshuo near Guilin is a relaxing place to pass a few days, and you could easily spend an extra night in either Dali or Lijiang. You could also choose to begin or end your trip in Beijing, Shanghai or Hong Kong. Herb market, Dali
www.audleytravel.com/china • 01993 838 220 • China
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Hong Kong S
ince the colonial era, Hong Kong has been Asia’s commercial and transport hub, home to a wide range of nationalities, contributing to making it one of the world’s most cosmopolitan, spectacular and welcoming cities. The wonder of Hong Kong lies in its contrasts. It’s a place where true multicultural modernity mixes seamlessly with Chinese traditions, while at the same time it very much maintains its own unique identity. Beneath the towering skyscrapers of the Central District you’ll find wet markets where locals come for fresh fish and vegetables. You can follow a feast of Cantonese dim sum with a wander through some local night markets on Nathan Road or take a stroll along the designer shopping streets of Wan Chai and Causeway Bay.
Audley in Hong Kong
Accommodation
Hong Kong makes a great start or end to your trip. Having once been a British territory, street signs are all in English and most taxi drivers and shop assistants speak at least some English. We have spent time finding markets and shopping districts away from the main tourist drag, which will allow you a glimpse into the everyday life of the city. There are regular, direct flights to most major cities in mainland China, Southeast Asia, Japan, Australia and New Zealand. It’s therefore possible to spend time here as a part of an itinerary to any of these places.
Hong Kong’s accommodation options are exhaustive, with a range of hotels to suit almost every taste and budget. However, although there are very few characterful or boutique properties, there are several iconic and well-established hotels on both Kowloon and Hong Kong Island, which boast rooms with views over the harbour. Whether you choose to stay on the island or Kowloon depends very much on personal preference, but if you do want a spectacular harbour view from your room then we recommend staying in Kowloon.
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Traditional junk, Hong Kong Harbour
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Hong Kong has a stunning array of local markets and shopping opportunities. From top-end luxury boutiques on Hong Kong Island to the lively Chinese markets in Kowloon and antiques on the Hollywood Road, Hong Kong has it all. The bustling shopping districts of Wan Chai and Causeway Bay with their international brands and designer labels find their local parallel in the wonderful markets of Nathan Road on the Kowloon side. Take your pick from the Electronics, Sports, Fish and Ladies’ Markets of Mongkok or visit the Temple Street Night Market, the kind of place people imagine when they think of Asian street markets. All manner of goods are on offer, from clothes and watches to CDs, DVDs and luggage. Best of all, and free of charge, is the wonderfully vibrant atmosphere. For a change of pace, head to Stanley, a small and laid-back town with a beachfront. As well as a lively little market, the town has some nice waterfront bars and restaurants and provides a break from the hustle and bustle of the Central District. Here, like everywhere in Hong Kong, you will be spoilt for choice with food stalls selling all manner of fresh ingredients and cooked delicacies; our policy is don’t ask, just try.
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2 Hong Kong Harbour Take the Star Ferry across the harbour for views of the world’s most impressive cityscape. 3 Symphony of Lights Every night, the city puts on a stunning laser show on the harbour, best seen from the Kowloon side.
Shopping Whether your tastes are for chic designer boutiques, valuable antiques and jade or local markets, Hong Kong is a shopper’s paradise.
Star Ferry, Hong Kong Harbour
Feasts worth sampling From world-renowned gourmet restaurants serving the best of Chinese and international cuisines, to weird and wonderful street food, there’s something for everyone in Hong Kong.
Shopping in Kowloon
www.audleytravel.com/hongkong • 01993 838 220 • Hong Kong
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View over Tai Long Wan bay, Sai Kung
The Intercontinental, Kowloon
Aberdeen Country Park
Islands & parks Hong Kong’s oft-forgotten islands and country parks offer a glorious respite from the bustling streets and towering skyscrapers. Emerald hills, extensive beaches, wild rainforests and volcanic rock formations greet visitors who stray away from the metropolis, with hiking and wildlife spotting opportunities galore. There are 24 country parks spread across Hong Kong’s various islands. Aberdeen Country Park is one of the closest to central Hong Kong and the hiking trails here, through woodlands and vibrant foliage, are popular with local residents. Sai Kung offers fantastic island views, rugged coastal walks and excellent beaches, while Plover Cove has verdant hills, waterfalls and secluded coves.
The Intercontinental boasts one of the best locations in Hong Kong. Right on the harbour front, it is just a few minutes’ walk from the Star Ferry and MTR stations as well as Nathan Road and the Avenue of Stars. It is also one of Hong Kong’s most prestigious landmarks, famous for its skyline views across the harbour as well as its excellent facilities and level of service. The hotel’s spa is renowned as one of Hong Kong’s best and we can reserve treatments for you if you so desire. The hotel also has two of the region’s most fashionable restaurants – Nobu and Yan Toh Heen – renowned for their outstanding cuisine and excellent service. One of the most memorable sights, however, is the breathtaking view from the Lobby Lounge.
The Intercontinental, Kowloon
The Kowloon Hotel, Kowloon Located just a stone’s throw from the Star Ferry and Tsim Sha Tsui MTR station, the Kowloon Hotel is ideal for exploring Hong Kong at ease. Although most of its 736 rooms and suites do not offer views of the harbour, the hotel is situated right in the heart of Nathan Road, giving you unbridled access to the area’s many shops and restaurants. The hotel itself is very comfortable, with great facilities, friendly staff and offers excellent value for money. The Kowloon Hotel, Kowloon
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Beach on Tai Long Wan bay, Sai Kung
Kowloon, Hong Kong
Wisdom Path, Lantau Island
New Year’s celebrations, Hong Kong
Lan Kwai Fong, Hong Kong Island One of the more characterful properties in Hong Kong, Lan Kwai Fong is in the heart of the fashionable and colourful Central District on Hong Kong Island. It has all the comforts of a four star hotel, minus the swimming pool, and offers wonderful views of the city. Its 162 rooms are beautifully decorated in traditional Chinese style, contrasting nicely with their modern environs. Surrounded by bustling streets and local night markets, this area is ideal for food lovers or those wanting to see a more local side of Cantonese life.
The Langham, Kowloon
Hotel Icon, Kowloon
Lan Kwai Fong, Hong Kong Island
The Langham, Kowloon The Langham offers very good value for money, considering its excellent levels of service, range of facilities and central location. As the flagship property of this internationally renowned chain, it exudes elegant European style and provides a refreshing sanctuary with superb facilities and a distinctly contemporary flair. The charming rooftop pool area has a fully-equipped health club and range of massage treatments, providing the perfect opportunity to unwind. It is situated in the heart of Tsim Sha Tsui, one of the liveliest and most popular areas of the city, with a vast array of shopping, entertainment and dining opportunities right on its doorstep. The Star Ferry terminal and an MTR station are less than five minutes’ walk away for easy access to Hong Kong Island.
Well known for its modern, stylish decor and contemporary design, Hotel Icon is a joy to explore. The vertical landscaped gardens, grand sweeping staircases and vibrant dining rooms offer a wonderful insight into the contemporary side of Hong Kong, with the standards of service equally well honed; it makes an ideal city base. Conveniently located near Tsim Sha Tsui MTR station, Hotel Icon has 262 guest rooms and offers excellent access to the main sights and sounds of Kowloon as well as the option to retreat to a stunning spa, rooftop pool and panoramic bar once you’re ready to escape from the bustle of the city.
Intercontinental Grand Stanford, Kowloon Situated on the harbour front, ten minutes’ walk from Kowloon’s major shopping district and the Tsim Sha Tsui MTR station, the Intercontinental Grand Stanford is a good base from which to explore the city. The 503 rooms are very comfortable, especially given the hotel’s great value rates. The Intercontinental Grand Stanford has excellent facilities with a lovely rooftop pool area, perfect for the summer months, and wonderfully efficient and discreet service.
www.audleytravel.com/hong kong • 01993 838 220 • Hong Kong
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Tibet F
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or centuries the mention of Tibet has conjured up images of remote temples, robed monks and dramatic Himalayan vistas. While modernisation and development have undoubtedly changed the lives of the Tibetan people, they cling proudly to their traditions and cultural identity, and offer a warm welcome to all who come to marvel at this special place. Although long exiled in northern India, the Dalai Lama’s influence remains, and Buddhism’s prevalence is evident in Tibet’s countless monasteries and temples. Pilgrims still flock to Barkhor Square and the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa, and to reaffirm their devotion beneath the sheer walls of the Potala Palace. Beyond the capital, breathtaking scenery awaits. Astride the southern edge of the Tibetan plateau, one of the most isolated regions in the world, sit four of the world’s ten highest mountains. Whatever experience you seek, there are wonders beyond measure to discover here on the ‘Roof of the World’.
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1 Lhasa A place of pilgrimage for Tibetans and the cultural and religious centre of Tibet. See page 48
3 Everest Base Camp The awesome sight of the world’s highest mountain is simply stunning. See page 49
2 Tsetang Remote and isolated home to Samye, Tibet’s oldest monastery, the scenery here is spectacular. See page 48
4 The Friendship Highway With pristine lake views and a breathtaking mountain backdrop, this is a truly memorable journey into south Asia. See page 50
The Friendship Highway
Samye Monastery, Tsetang
www.audleytravel.com/tibet • 01993 838 215 • Tibet
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Tibet offers a mixture of characterful guesthouses and more functional Chinese business hotels, while more deluxe accommodation options are just beginning to appear in the capital. Lhasa has several central hotels beautifully decorated in the Tibetan style. For five star luxury, a rarity in this part of the world, the St Regis is a delightful base before beginning a journey along the Friendship Highway. The finest view of perhaps any accommodation in the world is found at the basic Rongbuk Monastery, in the very shadow of Everest. For the adventurous, a night under canvas on the shore of breathtaking Lake Namtso is also a memorable experience.
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Since 1951 Tibet has been officially designated an autonomous region of China. This controversial status and the subsequent relocation of large numbers of Han Chinese has led to the gradual dilution of Tibetan culture. We use only Tibetan guides and focus your itinerary on Tibetan culture and traditions, giving you an insight into the region and everyday life. Some of the more remote areas involve adventurous journeys, but we will tailor your itinerary to suit your preferences. Whereas most operators will only take you to Tibet as part of a fixed itinerary group, our itineraries are private and tailor-made to your own specifications. Permits are required to enter Tibet, and in the past the issuing of these permits has been suspended for political reasons for periods of time. Your specialist will also be able to advise you about this.
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Serene and unmistakable, its towering white walls visible for miles, the fabulous Potala Palace greets you as you reach the capital of Tibet. Its labyrinthine corridors open up to chapels, galleries and sacred tombs, and culminate in the former living quarters of the Dalai Lama. Wander around nearby Barkhor Square and the spectacular golden-roofed Jokhang Temple before getting lost in the maze of old Tibetan streets in the centre of Lhasa, the perfect place for an afternoon’s exploration. Just outside Lhasa there are two monasteries of particular interest: Sera is set around a busy courtyard where monks spend heated afternoons debating philosophical questions, while Drepung was once the world’s largest monastery, housing up to 10,000 monks in its heyday. A day trip into the countryside also reveals the monastic ruins and restorations of Ganden, as you pass monks on the way to isolated shrines and enjoy fantastic views across the valley.
East of Lhasa in an isolated spot in the Brahmaputra River Valley is Tsetang, the fabled birthplace of the Tibetan people. Modern Tsetang is a useful base for exploring the region, in particular Yumbulagang Fort, its 11 metre tower dark against the sky. Set on a jagged ridge fluttering with prayer flags, it is a great viewpoint overlooking the verdant Yarlung Valley. Northeast of Tsetang, the road crosses the mighty Brahmaputra River en route to the remarkable Samye Monastery, oldest of all Tibet’s monasteries. Under the protective gaze of the spectacular Utse building, countless stupas and temples still attract many devout Buddhists.
St Regis, Lhasa
St Regis, Lhasa Five star luxury was not something that could be associated with a visit to Tibet until the St Regis arrived. This is an idyllic retreat from which to explore the capital, and offers indulgent spa treatments and ample relaxation after a journey around Tibet. The style in each of the 192 rooms is faithful to Tibetan culture, art and customs, and the facilities are as you would expect from the internationally renowned St Regis chain.
Yabshang, Lhasai Phunk Once home to the Dalai Lama’s family, this stately hotel is built in the traditional Tibetan style. It is one of Lhasa’s most characterful properties and enjoys a prime location, just a short walk from the bustling markets of Barkhor Square. Its 21 rooms are tastefully decorated and very comfortable, while the staff are attentive and the atmosphere relaxed. Potala Palace, Lhasa
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Tibetan woman, Tsetang
Buddhist monk by the Kumbum Stupa, Gyantse
Gyantse Dzong, Gyantse
Yumbulagang Fort, Yarlung Valley
Shigatse
Local transport, Shigatse
Gyantse Journeying by road to Gyantse is one of the joys of travelling through Tibet. You will pass through stunning Himalayan scenery, the 5,000 metre Kamba La Pass providing sweeping panoramas leading down to the turquoise waters of Yamdrok-Tso. Gyantse itself is an historic town with streets and markets full of Tibetan character. As with most Tibetan towns, there is a remote, ‘Wild West’ feel and it’s an interesting place to wander in the afternoon. Discover the shadowy chambers of Pelkor Chode Monastery and the splendid multi-layered Kumbum Stupa, with its impressive murals and statues filling many chapels, all topped by a golden dome. A short way out of town is Gyantse Dzong, the site of various fortresses over the centuries.
Tibet’s second largest town, Shigatse is an easy drive west of Gyantse and home to the Tashi Lhunpo Monastery. This traditional seat of the Panchen Lama (the highest ranking after the Dalai Lama) is famed for its striking buildings, including the Maitreya Chapel which is dominated by a 26 metre statue of the Future Buddha, and the Tomb of the Fourth Panchen Lama. The town is known for its skilled carpet weavers and we also suggest a walk around its colourful fruit and vegetable markets. Shigatse may still feel like an outpost, but it is developing steadily as the region slowly progresses. For those travelling to Everest and beyond to Kathmandu, this is the last town of any size before you reach Nepal, and is a good place to stock up on necessities for the road ahead.
View to Mount Everest from Rongbuk Monastery
Everest Less developed for tourism than on the Nepalese side, reaching Everest in Tibet feels like a genuine achievement, and the views as the sun sets are simply jaw-dropping. Rongbuk Monastery, the world’s highest at 5,100 metres, also provides the best of the accommodation in this most remote of destinations. The monastery is run by the resident monks, and it is maintained partially by traveller donations. For those who stay at Rongbuk Monastery, the basic facilities, which include outdoor taps and toilets, are more than compensated for by the dramatic views of Everest from the bedroom windows. Base Camp lies a few miles beyond Rongbuk, and visitors are permitted to walk up a winding path to a military outpost which affords staggering views of this legendary mountain, the climbers’ tents often visible at its foot.
Landscape around Rongbuk Monastery
www.audleytravel.com/tibet • 01993 838 215 • Tibet
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Road to Gyantse passing Yamdrok-Tso
Overland to Kathmandu Few journeys in the world can match the Lhasa to Kathmandu Friendship Highway for the scenic and cultural experiences that it offers. Patchy roads and simple accommodation are a small price to pay, as the road climbs to 5,000 metres, affording wonderful views of lakes and valleys below and passing by Tibet’s key towns and monasteries. A detour south from the Friendship Highway allows you to spend a night at the foot of Everest itself, before the road to Nepal begins its spectacular descent through the clouds to the border. The Journey While Lhasa is the religious and cultural focal point of Tibet, the great overland journey begins as you depart the capital, heading south across the Tibetan Plateau. The 5,000 metre Kamba La Pass is the highlight of the first day, with superb views of Lake YamdrokTso far below.
Prayer flags beside a mountain pass
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An early start is a must on your morning at Rongbuk, as the sun rising over Everest will leave even the most experienced traveller speechless. As the colours change over the snows, the dots of climbers’ tents at the foot of the mountain are revealed in the distance.
Monk at Sakya Monastery, near Shigatse
Gyantse is the first town of any size that you reach on the Friendship Highway, where a browse through the markets is a pleasant way to spend the afternoon. A couple of nights allows for a day exploring Pelkor Chode Monastery, as well as a visit to Gyantse Dzong, overlooking the town from its hilltop location. From Gyantse it is an easy drive on to Shigatse, for an afternoon wandering through the streets and markets, and a trip out to Sakya Monastery.
The last morning in Tibet holds arguably the most impressive drive of all, as you leave the barren lunar landscape behind and gradually the slopes become green with vegetation. When you step out of the car at the border it is noticeably warmer, and once into Nepal it feels as if you have reached a new continent as South Asian smells and noises fill the air. It should be noted that due to conditions locally, the roads here, and the border, can open and close with little notice. For more information about the journey on to Kathmandu, please speak to one of our Indian Subcontinent specialists.
Beyond Shigatse the journey really begins to get interesting, and the scenery more dramatic, as the Himalayan Range becomes ever more dominant on the skyline. At the dusty village of Tingri you drop off the Friendship Highway, heading south towards the approaching Himalaya until the magnificent sight of Everest appears for the first time. At 5,100 metres altitude, a slower pace is definitely recommended when you arrive at Rongbuk Monastery. Mount Everest seen from Rongbuk Monastery
Suggested itineraries Tailoring your trip The itineraries shown are designed to give you a flavour of what is possible, and are routes that work particularly well. We can use these as a basis to plan your trip or can design a completely different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests. Please call one of our Tibet specialists to start planning your itinerary.
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For maximum comfort and flexibility we suggest using private vehicles with drivers to get around Tibet. If travelling overland between Tibet and Nepal, we recommend the use of a 4x4 vehicle with driver as the roads out here are pretty bumpy. The effect of altitude is a factor we consider when planning your itinerary. Most travellers only suffer mild and temporary symptoms, but we always try to build in time to acclimatise at the beginning of your journey.
Permits A permit, which is issued by the Chinese authorities, is required by foreigners wishing to enter Tibet. In recent years, as political sensitivities and anti-Chinese protests by ethnic Tibetans have increased, the issuing of these permits has been suspended on occasion, which means that Tibet is effectively closed to visitors at these times. This is impossible to predict, though certain months are more reliable than others, and we will discuss this with you when you contact us about your trip.
Classic Tibet This trip is a superb introduction to the cultural highlights of the ancient kingdom of Tibet. Travelling on the Friendship Highway, you will witness dramatic mountain vistas and pristine lakes and experience the culture and religion of the Tibetan people as you visit the most sacred monasteries and temples. You will also gain a further insight into the area with a stop in the Nepalese capital of Kathmandu at the start of your journey.
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Travelling to Tibet is only practical between the months of April and November, as inclement weather prevents the majority of flights entering the region at other times. Despite the altitude, it is surprisingly warm during this climatic window, although some rain is likely in July and August. For their largely clear blue skies, May and October are generally considered the finest months for travel, while September is also excellent for making the overland journey to Nepal. Time difference: GMT+8 hours
Prices We offer trips to cater for a wide range of budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices for your trip to Tibet on our website, alternatively please call our specialists to discuss your plans.
This is a fascinating and exhilarating journey through the Himalayan landscape from Tibet to Nepal, which combines a unique and traditional culture with staggering mountain scenery. This is one of the world’s great travel experiences. Day 1
Arrive in Kathmandu.
Day 2
Spend the day seeing the highlights of Kathmandu.
Arrive in Kathmandu.
Day 3
Day 2
Enjoy a day tour of Kathmandu’s key sights, including a visit to Swayambhunath Temple.
Fly to Lhasa, from where you drive to Tsetang.
Day 4
Visit Samye Monastery. Continue on to Yambulagang Palace, home of the first 32 kings of Tibet.
Day 5
Drive to Lhasa.
Day 6
Visit the Potala Palace and in the afternoon explore Sera Monastery.
Day 7
Enjoy a tour of Lhasa’s most important temple, the Jokhang, and afterwards travel to the seat of the State Oracle at Drepung.
Day 3
Fly into Lhasa and drive to Tsetang.
Day 4
Have a full day at Samye Monastery and Yambulagang Monastery.
Day 5
Drive to Gyantse via the Kamba La Pass on the Southern Friendship Highway.
Day 6
Enjoy a full day in Gyantse, exploring the Pelkor Chode Monastery and the Gyantse Dzong.
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Day 7
Drive to Shigatse to explore Tashi Lhunpo Monastery and the local markets.
Drive to Gyantse along the Friendship Highway.
Day 9
Visit the Pelkor Chode Monastery and the Kumbum Stupa.
Day 8
Drive to Lhasa.
Day 10
Day 9
Embark on a full day exploring the Jokhang Temple, Sera Monastery and the Dalai Lama’s Summer Palace.
Drive to Shigatse via Shalu Monastery and Tashi Lhunpo Monastery.
Day 11
Enjoy the passing scenery on the full-day drive towards the Himalaya, spending the night at Rongbuk Monastery.
Day 12
Walk to a viewpoint for staggering vistas of Everest, before making the journey back to Tingri.
Day 13
Continue on towards Kathmandu.
Day 14
Travel to the airport to connect with your onward flight.
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Visit the Potala Palace and Drepung Monastery.
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Fly back to Kathmandu for an overnight stay.
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Travel to the airport to connect with your onward flight.
Stay longer Tibet combines well with Nepal for those interested in exploring the region further. Please see our Indian Subcontinent brochure or our website for more information about Nepal. Alternatively, time in Tibet can be combined with some of the sights of China’s Yunnan province, or Classic China.
www.audleytravel.com/tibet • 01993 838 215 • Tibet
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The Silk Route T
he Silk Route has never been one defined road, but an intricate web of ancient trading routes which wound their way across the desert stretches of western China, through the mountains and passes of Central Asia to finally reach Arabia and Europe. Tales of the fabled vistas and exotic delicacies to be found along the way have long inspired both travellers and scholars, and today the Silk Route still exerts the same pull over those intrigued by the mysteries of this fascinating region. Although silk was one of the most important products to be transported by the numerous caravans of camels that made the lengthy journey, many other goods were traded in both directions, such as gold, ivory, jade, glassware, spices and tea. Perhaps most important was the trade of ideas and technologies; Islam spread as far east as China, while the art of paper making and iron casting travelled west. Today, this incredible journey rewards travellers with a captivating array of cultures and staggering landscapes. Soaring mountains, vast deserts, ancient ruins, lively markets and spectacular architecture all await the adventurous traveller along this ancient route. 500 miles
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3 Kashgar Sunday market The very essence of the Silk Route and a medley of cultures, this bustling, thriving market sells everything from carpets to goats. See page 55 Yurts near Lake Song Kol 1 The Registan, Samarkand The masterpiece of Samarkand and one of the most awesome sights of the Silk Route; three mighty madrasas ornately decorated with intricate mosaics and gilding face each other across a grand public square. See page 59
4 Traditional yurt stay, Lake Song Kol A night on the edge of this remote and beautiful lake surrounded by majestic snow-capped mountains gives a real taste of the nomadic way of life. See page 57
Mogao Thousand Buddha Caves 5 Turpan
A desert oasis with myriad ancient ruins, Buddhist grottoes and verdant villages to visit. See page 55 6 Dunhuang Home to the Mogao Thousand Buddha Caves and some of the highest sand dunes in the world. See pages 54-55
2 The Torugart Pass One of the routes between China and Kyrgyzstan, at 3,752 metres high this pass is legendary. See page 56 Mingsha Singing Sand Dunes, Dunhuang
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Accommodation Accommodation along the Silk Route is invariably simple, but each country offers a distinctively different style. Western China tends to offer international hotels, Kyrgyzstan favours guesthouses and traditional yurt stays, while Uzbekistan offers caravanserai-style courtyard properties. Unless you are staying in yurts in Kyrgyzstan, the majority of accommodation along the Silk Route is en suite and quite comfortable. There are few luxury hotels in the region: the best available are in the capitals of Tashkent and Bishkek, though these tend to be focused on business travellers.
MONGOLIA
Lake Balkash
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We have been operating trips in this stimulating part of the world for many years now. Our specialists have travelled throughout this little-visited region, so we can talk from personal experience when organising trips here. Whether you have days or weeks to spend following in the footsteps of some of the world’s most resilient traders, there is plenty to explore along the Silk Route. A shorter, one week trip may focus on the incredible architecture of Uzbekistan or the beautiful scenery of Kyrgyzstan, while a longer trip might encompass a number of countries such as western China, Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan and many of the key points of interest along the way for a truly unforgettable experience.
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Audley along the Silk Route
Kashgar Sunday market
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Camel train in the Mingsha Singing Sand Dunes, Dunhuang
Western China
Dunhuang
Xinjiang and Gansu provinces in the far west of China barely feel Chinese; the landscape here is completely different from anything else you’re likely to see in China and the local Uighur people have their own distinctive look, different languages and Islamic faith. The vast Taklamakan Desert and craggy Tian Shan mountain ranges make western China feel far more like Mongolia, while the mosques, thriving street food markets and plethora of local languages – Uighur, Tajik and Kyrgyz among them – speak more of Central Asia than of China. The enticing smells of food stalls wafting through a haze of cooking smoke from night markets characterise the towns here, while the immensity of the desert landscape and its exceptional historical remains make this one of the most beautiful and fascinating regions in the whole country.
A verdant oasis in the heart of the vast Gobi Desert, Dunhuang was once a critical garrison town controlling the entrance to the Hexi Corridor, which led through the northern Chinese plains to the ancient capitals of Luoyang and Chang’An (Xian). Dunhuang has been a centre for Buddhist art and sculpture for over 1,500 years and there is nowhere along the Silk Route quite like it; its ancient cave frescoes nestle between massive sand dunes and barren mountains. The Mogao Thousand Buddha Caves are a vast series of grottoes which housed monasteries, artists, monks and nuns. Stretching for 1,700 metres along a canyon wall at the edge of the sand dunes, they are home to over a millennium of art. Further out of the town lies the Yadan National Park, an eerie, eroded desert landscape of odd rock formations and one of the last ancient military beacon tower defence posts.
Tajik couple, Xinjiang province
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Fresco, Mogao Thousand Buddha Caves, Dunhuang
Xian This ancient capital of China was the easternmost point on the Silk Route of old. It was from Xian that Chinese traders began their epic journey with their loads of silk, spices and jewels. To this day, it maintains a vibrant Muslim Quarter, at the heart of which lies the Great Mosque, a testament to the city’s history and the great trade of ideas and religions which the Silk Route facilitated. Xian is also home to the iconic Terracotta Warriors, one of the country’s greatest historical monuments.
Spices for sale at a night market, Xian
Local woman carrying water, Lake Karakul, Karakoram Highway
Dried fruit stall, Kashgar Sunday market
Kashgar Sunday market
Ruins of Jiaohe, near Turpan
Uighur man, Turpan
Turpan
Kashgar
Nestling at 154 metres below sea level in the fourth lowest point on the Earth’s surface lies Turpan, the hottest place in China. Despite receiving almost no rainfall, an ingenious irrigation system which channels glacier water from the high surrounding mountains, makes the town habitable, and even sustains a thriving grapefarming industry. With streets lined by trailing vines and bustling, vibrant food markets, Turpan itself is an appealing place to explore, but most of its attractions actually lie in the surrounding area, which is home to a variety of ancient ruined cities, Buddhist caves and oasis villages. Jiaohe and Gaochang are among the best examples of ruined cities in China, while the Buddhist grottoes in the Bezeklik ‘Flaming Mountains’, so called because of their distinctive colour, have a fascinating history.
Almost 3,500 kilometres west of Beijing sits Kashgar. Perched at the foot of the mountainous passes of Central Asia in China’s far frontier, it is closer to Saudi Arabia than to its own country’s capital. Its strategic location at a crossing point for international routes made Kashgar a base for cultural exchange and commerce, and today its population is a melting pot of peoples and cultures.
The Silk Road Hotel, Dunhuang The Silk Road Hotel is certainly one of the most attractive places to stay along the Chinese section of the Silk Route. Sitting in the shadow of the Mingsha Singing Sand Dunes, the hotel’s rooftop terrace is a fantastic place to watch the sun set behind this magnificent backdrop: a fine way to end a day of exploration. The 266 rooms here are beautifully decorated in the local style and the hotel’s large, cool, public spaces make a welcome break from the heat of the Gobi Desert outside.
The city’s old town is a rambling web of narrow, dusty lanes, tumbling brick houses and market stalls that sit right in the middle of Kashgar and are surrounded by more modern, Chinese streets, which highlights the cultural diversity of this enthralling city. Known far and wide is the celebrated Sunday market, a chaotic mix of people and animals where anything from donkeys to knives, and a great deal besides, is bought and sold. Watching farmers and traders from various remote corners of the area haggle over a yak or sit and sup spiced tea over a game of cards is a truly unforgettable experience. From Kashgar it is possible to travel on the spectacular Karakoram Highway, the road which eventually leads into Pakistan and India.
Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves, near Turpan
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Tash Rabat Valley, Kyrgyzstan
Torugart Pass
Kyrgyz men in traditional felt hats
Kyrgyzstan A land of immense, snow-capped mountains, forested valleys, delightful alpine scenery and sapphire lakes, Kyrgyzstan’s luxuriant landscape lies in direct contrast to the scorched plains of Uzbekistan and the vast deserts of western China. Almost completely mountainous, Kyrgyzstan is fantastically beautiful and opportunities to enjoy this spectacular scenery are plentiful, from staying in a traditional yurt to hiking or horse riding through the soaring mountains. The Kyrgyz themselves, especially the nomadic families of the high steppe, are disarmingly friendly and welcoming to visitors. Bishkek, the leafy capital, makes for a pleasant night or two’s stay, but the superb landscape is the real reason to come to Kyrgyzstan.
One of the greatest, most satisfying overland journeys anywhere in Asia, the Torugart Pass takes you up to 3,752 metres and over the enormous Tian Shan ranges, with fantastic views in every direction. It is one of just two road passes from Kyrgyzstan into China. It wasn’t so long ago that the trip was rendered impossible for various political reasons, but the pass is now open for much of the year. It is still theoretically possible to pass over the Tian Shan all year round but, in truth, it would be madness to try any later than October or earlier than May, when heavy snowfall can block the pass for many miles in both directions. Once you have crossed the border itself, the landscape in Kyrgyzstan opens up as the road takes you through the high steppe grasslands before descending into the valley of Tash Rabat, home to an ancient caravanserai from the days of Silk Route trading, or on to the town of Naryn.
Caravanserai in Tash Rabat
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Horses in front of Lake Song Kol
Lake Song Kol In a high alpine valley in the middle of Kyrgyzstan sits Lake Song Kol, a wonderfully remote azure jewel amid snowy peaks, where herds of horses roam the grassy shores. During the summer months, nomadic herdsmen set up yurt camps on the fertile pastures surrounding the lake, which is a fantastic location to experience Kyrgyzstan’s most traditional accommodation. The lake can only be accessed by high, winding mountain roads and is hours away from the nearest town – you truly are in the middle of nowhere. Here you can experience astonishing star-strewn night skies which are well worth staying up to witness. Equally, watching the sun rise above the lake and mountains while you warm yourself with a mug of tea and some home-baked bread is a remarkable experience.
Walking in Kyrgyzstan
Altyn Arashan valley
Kyrgyzstan is a walker’s paradise, with options of all lengths and difficulties available amid staggeringly beautiful scenery. The mountains and glaciers of the Tian Shan in the northeast of the country include peaks of over 7,000 metres as well as the mighty 60-kilometre-long Inylchek Glacier, and thus have some of the longest and wildest hiking trails in the country. More accessible is Ala-Archa National Park, just south of Bishkek. Here you can take a number of half or full-day walks through valleys dotted with waterfalls, up to one of the park’s glaciers or along some of the region’s highest peaks. For some of the most delightful and varied walks, base yourself in Karakol to spend a few days exploring Altyn Arashan and Jeti Oghuz to the south. These offer idyllic trails Sandstone cliffs, Jeti Oghuz
Ala-Archa canyon, Tian Shan
through flower meadows, stark canyons and alpine valleys, particularly spectacular in May when the flowers bloom. It is also possible to do some walking from any of the yurt camps in the country, as these are located in rural, remote spots amid striking scenery, but it is best to ask your guide to accompany you here as the paths are unmarked and often hard to follow.
Kyrgyz man drinking tea
Lake Issyk Kul To the east of the capital is the deep and imposing Lake Issyk Kul. On all sides of the lake mountains rise, their jagged peaks capped with snow for most of the year. On the southeastern shore is Karakol, a pretty, timeworn Russian settlement with picturesque houses and a colourful bazaar. The town is an excellent base for Kyrgyzstan’s best and most accessible hiking. Jeti Oghuz, an extraordinary canyon of red sandstone formations, and Altyn Arashan, a picture perfect alpine valley known for its hot springs and views of the imposing Mount Palatka, are only a short drive away. Lake Issyk Kul
Yurt stays
Inside a yurt, Kyrgyzstan
Portable, light and cool in the summer but warm in the winter, yurts personify the modest and seasonal life of the Central Asian nomads, who have been using this traditional form of tent for thousands of years. The basic structure – layers of felt stretched over a wooden frame – could not be simpler, yet it manages to accommodate entire families. The best area to see traditional yurts is the meadows in Kyrgyzstan. A few families have opened up yurt camps for visitors, which is an experience we heartily recommend. The welcome is always warm and, though the facilities are akin to camping, the locations of many of the yurts provide marvellous views at
sunrise and sunset and what feels like the freshest air in the world. Our favourite locations are at Lake Song Kol and in the stunning valleys along the southern shore of Lake Issyk Kul.
Yurts at Lake Song Kol
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Registan Square, Samarkand
Bukhara
The Ark, Bukhara
Uzbekistan Three of the jewels of the Silk Route: Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva, can be found within this desolate, double landlocked country, whose staggering architecture was for so long overlooked by visitors. A relatively wealthy and strategically important country, Uzbekistan attracted the attention of invaders across the ages and Macedonians, Arabs, Turks and Russians have all had an enduring influence on the country. The dazzling architecture and fascinating history, not to mention the friendly, hospitable people and vibrant bazaars, are enough to enthuse any visitor to the country.
Bukhara has a formidable history and a plethora of truly extraordinary monuments to match. One of Islam’s most sacred sites, this venerable and captivating city was also one of the key stops along the Silk Route. In the Middle Ages, when the region was at its zenith, scholars travelled from all over the Islamic world to study here. The architecture is simply fantastic, from the astonishing Kalon Minaret, spared by an awestruck Genghis Khan but bombed by the Red Army, to the ancient fortified citadel known as the Ark, the site of the notorious execution of British emissaries Stoddart and Conolly. Although the main sights here can be visited within one day, Bukhara has a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere and slow pace of life. We therefore suggest spending longer to allow yourself time to wander at leisure, explore the back streets and various cafes, and absorb the delightfully authentic ambiance. Buying cloth at the market, Bukhara
Minzifa Hotel, Bukhara Located down a small alley right in the heart of the old town, the tiny Minzifa Hotel is set around a courtyard accessed by a 180-year-old door. Its 12 rooms are beautifully furnished, each uniquely decorated in the local style. What really sets the Minzifa apart, however, is its extremely friendly staff. Minzifa Hotel, Bukhara
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Tilework, Samarkland
Khiva
Samarkand
The name Khiva conjures an extraordinary combination of tales both of barbaric cruelty and intense scholarship. Lying 800 kilometres across the barren desert from the capital of Tashkent, it is an oasis of vibrant colour and wondrous constructions. Enclosed by imposing city walls, a medley of exquisite madrasas and mosques rest beneath the strong desert sun, their intricate majolica patterns and azure-glazed tiles glinting in the sun. Visitors staying for longer can travel northwest from the city to Nukus, which was once a port town on the edge of the rapidly diminishing Aral Sea, where rusting trawlers and dry fishing nets are now marooned in the sands. To the south lie the ruined mud-brick fortresses of Ayaz Kala, which once protected the periphery of the Kyzyl Kum Desert against nomadic raids.
Samarkand, the ‘jewel of the Silk Route’, has long ignited the wonder of travellers, poets and tyrants alike. Its beauty and majesty were immortalised in James Elroy Flecker’s 1913 poem The Golden Journey to Samarkand, and its delights are undiminished today. Samarkand’s astonishing history dates back 2,500 years, from the crumbling remains of Marakanda, a prominent city of the Greek Empire, through to the grand
and imposing monuments of the Islamic Renaissance. Samarkand’s skyline is dominated by majestic domes and minarets, enormous mosques and grand mausoleums, but its most well-known site is the Registan Square, whose three formidable madrasas create an air of opulence and grandeur which seems to typify the city. South of Samarkand lies the small town of Shakhrisabz, the birthplace of Uzbekistan’s own tyrant and conqueror, Tamerlane, or ‘Timur the Lame’.
The Great Game From the early 19 th century Britain and Russia entered a period of strategic rivalry and conflict for power in Central Asia and India. Known as the ‘Great Game’, the tactics employed by both sides were often underhand, despite the empires being officially at peace with one another. Yet India was viewed as such a prize that competition for power in this strange and often dangerous part of the world was fierce. Britain feared that Russia would gradually persuade the rulers of the Central Asian republics to their side and then use Afghanistan as a base from which to invade India. It was only due to joint fears of the
growing strength of imperial Germany that the Anglo-Russian Treaty was signed, which brought an end to this brutal period of Central Asian history. The term ‘Great Game’ is thought to have been coined by Arthur Conolly, a British intelligence officer whose involvement in this lengthy engagement culminated in his eventual capture and beheading in Bukhara by the Emir of Uzbekistan on charges of spying for the British Empire. Charles Stoddart, a British colonel who had been imprisoned for three years following a failed mission to reassure the Emir about Britain’s invasion of Afghanistan, met the same fate.
City walls, Khiva
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Herd of horses near Tian Shan, Kyrgyzstan
Tailoring your trip
Group tour
The itineraries shown are designed to give you a flavour of what is possible, and are routes that work particularly well. We can use these as a basis to plan your trip or can design a completely different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests. Please call one of our Silk Route specialists to start planning your itinerary.
For those who prefer to tackle this journey in the company of others, we also run a group tour, which takes in the main highlights of this epic trip. Beginning in Beijing, we follow the ancient trade routes out to Kashgar, before crossing the Torugart Pass into Kyrgyzstan, and then finishing up in Uzbekistan. You’ll be accompanied by an experienced guide the whole way. For more details please contact one of our Silk Route specialists.
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What to expect Travelling along the Silk Route should definitely be looked upon as a journey rather than a holiday. Luxury accommodation does not exist here, though charming local guesthouses are plentiful. There are likely to be some long drives on fairly rough roads, and toilet facilities en route will not be of a high standard. In addition, hotel and guesthouse owners in this part of the world can have a somewhat cavalier attitude to reservations, and we may sometimes need to make changes to where you stay at relatively short notice. However, we are very experienced with this and these are all small compromises when coupled with some truly outstanding scenery and the fascinating cultures you will encounter along the way.
Getting around While traders originally made the journey by camel and pack horse, we do not recommend travelling entirely overland as distances are vast and the journeys not always interesting, especially in the west of China. Instead, we suggest a mixture of domestic flights and road journeys, to maximise your time in the most interesting destinations along the way. Private vehicles with drivers offer the greatest flexibility when travelling between destinations. 60
When to go Ceramics for sale, Bukhara Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun
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Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year.
5 Travel is not recommended.
Central Asia and western China’s continental climate is characterised by very hot and dry summers and bitterly cold winters. In general, May, and into June, and September are the ideal times to visit the region, when the flowers bloom and local bazaars throng with life, although those wishing to cross overland from China into Kyrgyzstan should be mindful of cold nights in southern Kyrgyzstan. In July and August, travel is possible, but expect it to be uncomfortably hot at times. Time difference: GMT+5 hours (Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan) GMT+8 hours (western China)
Health & fitness Parts of the Silk Route are at fairly high altitudes, particularly the Torugart Pass border crossing between China and Kyrgyzstan which is at 3,752 metres. You may feel some side-effects from the high altitude, although you will be travelling up to that height gradually, which should allow your body time to acclimatise. Even travelling during the peak months, you are likely to face very high temperatures in western China and Uzbekistan, and potentially some quite cold nights in Kyrgyzstan. Please be prepared and pack accordingly for these extreme temperature changes. You will require a reasonable level of fitness for a full length trip along the Silk Route, not least because it can take such a long time and the travelling conditions can be demanding.
Prices We offer trips to cater for a wide range of budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices for your trip to the Silk Route on our website, alternatively please call our specialists to discuss your plans.
Suggested itineraries kazakhstan
mongolia
uzbekistan
kazakhstan uzbekistan
Urumqi Bishkek
Khiva Tashkent Bukhara
kyrgyzstan
Turpan
Khiva
Karakol Tashkent Dunhuang
Samarkand
turkmenistan
Torugart Pass
Kashgar
Bukhara
From Xian
Samarkand
turkmenistan
china
Classic Silk Route
Uzbekistan Discovered
This is an adventurous but thoroughly rewarding journey that follows the trading routes of the ancient Silk Route through western China into Kyrgyzstan and neighbouring Uzbekistan. Day 1
Arrive in Xian, with the rest of the day to relax.
This shorter itinerary will see you standing in the shadows of some of the best architecture along the Silk Route, including the legendary cities of Samarkand and Bukhara. Starting and ending in Tashkent, you’ll visit the walled city of Khiva, the ‘Holy City’ of Bukhara and the incredible architecture of Samarkand.
Day 2
Fly to the oasis town of Dunhuang in the Gobi Desert.
Day 1
Day 3
Visit Mogao, site of the Thousand Buddha Caves. In the afternoon, explore the Mingsha Sand Dunes.
Arrive in Tashkent. After time to rest, take a half day tour of the Uzbek capital.
Day 2
Day 4
Fly to Khiva and explore the old town.
Fly from Dunhuang to Urumqi, then drive on to Turpan.
Day 3
A further day in Khiva.
Day 5
Visit the pretty Tuyaq Valley, the ransacked caves at Bezeklik and the ruins of Gaochang.
Day 4
Drive to the ‘Holy City’ of Bukhara.
Day 5
Explore the highlights of Bukhara with your guide.
Day 6
At leisure in Bukhara.
Day 7
Drive to Samarkand, breaking the journey at Tamerlane’s former home town of Shakhrisabz along the way.
Day 8
Visit the main sights of Samarkand, including the Registan.
Day 6
Day 7
Day 8
Discover the ruined city of Jiaohe before returning to Urumqi for your onward flight to Kashgar. Take a day trip along the breathtaking Karakoram Highway to Lake Karakul.
Tilla Kari Madrasa, Samarkand Day 12
Drive around the northern edge of Lake Issyk Kul to the Kyrgyz capital of Bishkek.
Visit the Kashgar Sunday market. In the afternoon, explore the main bazaar in the city centre.
Day 13
Fly to Tashkent in neighbouring Uzbekistan.
Day 9
Day 9
At leisure to explore Samarkand independently.
Cross the 3,752 metre Torugart Pass into Kyrgyzstan.
Day 14
Fly to the walled city of Khiva. Explore the city in the afternoon.
Day 10
Day 10
Return to Tashkent and board your onward flight.
Continue your journey deeper into Kyrgyzstan, to the town of Karakol. En route, skirt the southern edge of picturesque Lake Issyk Kul.
Day 15
Drive from Khiva to Bukhara.
Day 16
Do some walking in the beautiful alpine valley of Jeti Oghuz.
Explore the highlights of Bukhara, including the ominous Ark and striking Kalon Mosque.
Day 17
A day at leisure to continue your exploration of Bukhara.
Day 18
Drive to the legendary city of Samarkand, stopping at Tamerlane’s former home town of Shakhrisabz en route.
Day 19
Visit the mighty Registan, Avenue of Tombs, Bibi Khanym Mosque and Tamerlane’s mausoleum.
Day 20
Return to Tashkent where you will board your onward flight.
Day 11
Camel by Lake Karakul, Karakorum Highway
Stay longer Neighbouring Kyrgyzstan can easily be combined with this itinerary to create a great two week trip.
Dried fruit and nuts for sale, Kashgar
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Trans-Siberian train travelling across the Gobi Desert
The Trans-Siberian Railway One of the world’s greatest journeys, and perhaps the classic train journey, the TransSiberian traverses over one third of the globe, spanning up to eight time zones and covering over 9,000 kilometres en route. The Russian railway system is one of the country’s proudest achievements, stitching this enormous country together and linking remote communities in the vast roadless expanses of Siberia. The routes It is important to note that the Trans-Siberian does not refer to one particular train, but to a series of routes. The two most popular, which can be done in either direction, are the Trans-Siberian running from Moscow to Vladivostok, and the Trans-Mongolian which travels from Moscow to Beijing.
The Trans-Siberian route is the longest, stretching all the way to the Pacific Coast in the far east of Russia. This is the purist’s choice since this is the only route that truly crosses Siberia completely. On the downside, it is scenically and culturally less varied, though taking this route opens up the possibility of continuing on to Japan. The most popular route, our Classic TransSiberian, is actually the Trans-Mongolian. This cuts south from Siberia, travelling through Mongolia and the Gobi Desert, before finishing in Beijing. Following this route really gives you the experience of crossing continents and of travelling from west to east (or vice versa), and is also more scenically varied. On this route you’ll travel from the Russian taiga (characterised by coniferous forest) through to the sparse wastes of Siberia, cross the Mongolian steppe and the Gobi Desert and finally pass by the Great Wall of China. When to go May to September is the best time of year to tackle the Trans-Siberian, when the weather in all countries is not too cold. Travelling between mid-August and mid-September should ensure that your journey isn’t too hot either, and this should also give you the benefit of clearer weather in Beijing.
Lake Baikal, Russia
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Train options There are various train options open to you, which can be broadly categorised into public or private. The public trains are working trains that criss-cross Russia, Mongolia and China. On board, there are four-berth sleeping compartments with a toilet and washbasin at each end of the carriage. There are no shower facilities available. All trains have a restaurant car which serves breakfast, lunch and dinner of a decent quality. Taking public trains offers you more flexibility to spend time at various stops along the way, but this is not a luxury option and can be more logistically challenging, with train schedules liable to change at short notice. There are also private trains which cover the route from Moscow to Vladivostok and vice versa. While these are perhaps a less ‘authentic’ way of doing the trip, they are generally more comfortable – there are showers on board and some cabins are en suite. Food is served on board and is generally of a high quality. The train also has a number of scheduled stops where you can explore with a guide employed by the train company.
russia Saint Petersburg Lake Baikal
Moscow Irkutsk
mongolia Ulaan Baatar
Kazakhstan
Gorkhi-Terelj National Park Vladivostok Beijing
china
Temple of Heaven, Beijing
Golden Eagle Without doubt the most comfortable way to experience the Trans-Siberian is on the private Golden Eagle train. The train covers the largest distances at night while you sleep, leaving the days free to explore the fascinating surrounds with the Golden Eagle’s English-speaking guides, or engage in one of the cultural and educational activities on offer, such as Russian language lessons or talks by expert lecturers on local history and culture. There are three types of cabins, each with en suite facilities and a range of included extras, depending on the class of cabin. The train operates a number of set itineraries including the Trans-Siberian and Trans-Mongolian routes, as well as a Silk Route itinerary.
Highlights along the way While it is possible to take a train non-stop from Moscow to Beijing or Vladivostok, this is not something we’d recommend. Apart from the lack of showers on the public trains, spending six continuous days on board the train is liable to lead to cabin fever. The following places are some of the most interesting places to stop:
Golden Eagle train
Dining carriage on the Golden Eagle
Irkutsk & Lake Baikal, Russia Established in 1651, the Cossack garrison town of Irkutsk grew to become the administrative and cultural centre of Siberia, and has interesting small museums, a charming riverside setting and many fine examples of traditional Russian wooden architecture. Around an hour from Irkutsk is Lake Baikal, the ‘Pearl of Siberia’. This is a place of breathtaking beauty and mind-boggling statistics: at 1,637 metres it is the world’s deepest lake, containing more than an incredible fifth of the world’s surface freshwater.
Classic Trans-Siberian
Ulaan Baatar, Mongolia The capital of Mongolia is not the prettiest city in the world but it is an excellent base from which to explore some of the surrounding countryside and to get a taste of the traditional nomadic way of life here. There are national parks within easy reach which can be visited as a day trip, or where you can stay for a night in a traditional ger tent – a memorable experience. Beijing, China China’s exciting capital is a great place to spend a few days. Key highlights while you’re here will be the Forbidden City, the magnificent Great Wall and the city’s ancient hutong districts of narrow laneways lined with traditional houses. Vladivostok, Russia At the far east of Russia, and the end of the longest continuous railway in the world, is Vladivostok. A bustling port and home to the Russian Pacific fleet, it’s a pleasant city spread across a series of peaks, peninsulas and islands.
This epic itinerary is ideal for those looking for a real adventure through some of the world’s most fascinating countries. Seeing the highlights of all that the Trans-Mongolian branch of this journey has to offer, you will start your journey in Beijing and travel westward through Mongolia and Siberian Russia to Moscow. Day 1
Arrive in Beijing. See the Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square.
Day 2
Head out of the city to visit the Great Wall.
Day 3
Visit the Temple of Heaven and Summer Palace.
Day 4
Board your train to Mongolia.
Day 5
Arrive in Mongolia in the afternoon, then head out of Ulaan Baatar (the capital) to Gorkhi-Terelj National Park.
Day 6
Enjoy the park before returning to Ulaan Baatar.
Day 7
Embark on a morning tour of the city. In the afternoon board the train to Irkutsk in Russia.
Day 8
Arrive in Irkutsk and transfer to Lake Baikal.
Day 9
Spend a day enjoying the lake scenery.
Day 10
Transfer back to Irkutsk for the afternoon train to Moscow.
Days 11-12 On board the train. Day 13
Arrive in Moscow.
Day 14
Embark on a walking tour of Red Square and the Kremlin.
Day 15
Explore the city, before boarding your onward flight.
Mongolian man, Ulaan Baatar
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Mongolia M
ongolia, the ‘Land of Blue Sky’, is one of Asia’s last untouched wildernesses. Once the heartland of one of the largest empires the world has ever known, ruled by Ghengis Khan in the 13th century, Mongolia today still has much in common with this fascinating period in history. Across much of this vast and beautiful land, nomadic life has remained remarkably unchanged. Around half of all Mongolians still live in the time-honoured way in felt-lined tents called gers, despite harsh winters making nomadic life increasingly difficult. They have successfully assimilated the conveniences of the modern world into their traditional way of living while retaining values and customs which would be familiar to their long distant ancestors. The landscape too has changed little over the centuries and is astonishingly diverse. Awesome expanses of rolling steppe meet high glacier-clad mountains, impenetrable forests and deep crystal lakes. To the south, the great Gobi Desert stretches to the horizon, a remarkable, sparsely populated landscape, empty save for deep canyons and ‘singing’ sand dunes.
Audley in Mongolia
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A vast section of the country which holds some of its most stunning and surprisingly varied scenery, including the magnificent ‘singing’ sand dunes at Khongoryn Els. See page 66 3 The Flaming Cliffs
A striking rock formation known as the site of many significant dinosaur fossil finds, it was named by palaeontologist Roy Andrews, the inspiration for Indiana Jones See page 66
Traditional ger tent 4 Khustai Nuruu
National Park Home to the world’s last surviving species of wild horse, this beautiful national park is easily accessible from the capital and offers a taste of ger camp living. See page 66 5 Karakorum Once the political and cultural capital of the Mongol Empire, Karakorum still holds huge cultural and spiritual significance for many Mongolians as the home of the country’s first Buddhist monastery, Erdene Zuu. See page 67
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Ulaan Baatar A working monastery and home to an active community of Buddhist monks, Gandan Khiid is one of the two most important places of worship in Mongolia. See page 66
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Ulaan Baatar offers a range of modern, international hotels whose standards approach those of more developed nations. Out of the city, however, options are far more limited. The lack of developed infrastructure across most of the country means that camping in traditional nomadic gers is often the only option. These offer a truly Mongolian style of accommodation, giving you an insight into the nomadic way of life. Most of the popular destinations offer semi-permanent encampments with modern facilities, though the further you venture off the beaten track the more basic they become.
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The immense landscapes of Mongolia offer fantastic opportunities to explore one of the world’s last wildernesses. It is over six times the size of the UK, yet its population is less than that of Wales, leaving most of the land completely uninhabited. Mongolians are traditionally nomadic people, so it was only in the Communist era in the 20 th century that urbanisation really began. Ulaan Baatar is the capital and is the political and cultural hub of the country, as well as the entry and exit point for those visiting. Over a third of the population lives here and it is an interesting place to explore, but we also recommend leaving the capital and seeing some of the countryside. With such huge distances you will inevitably spend much of your time travelling, but we know which routes work best and have the most spectacular scenery. There are no direct flights, so a connecting flight via Beijing is the most convenient option, although for those with more time the Trans-Mongolian or the Trans-Siberian railways offer a more scenic, atmospheric journey into Mongolia from Russia.
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The Naadam Festival Celebrating the three sports of wrestling, archery and horse racing, this colourful festival is the highlight of the year for all Mongolians. See page 67 Stay in a traditional Mongolian ger Although providing simple accommodation, a stay in a traditional ger tent is often the highlight of a trip to Mongolia and offers a taste of a nomadic lifestyle which has endured throughout the country for centuries. See page 68 Nomadic hospitality Visiting a Mongolian family in their nomadic home is the only true way to understand this fascinating way of life.
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Camel at the base of Khongoryn Els, Gobi Desert
Khustai Nuruu National Park
Gandan Khiid, Ulaan Baatar
Ulaan Baatar As the distinctly urban capital of a nomadic nation, Ulaan Baatar is somewhat of a paradox, but it perfectly represents the way in which the nation as a whole has assimilated traditional ways of living into modern life. A city buzzing with change, where new buildings funded by foreign investment are thrown up at a moment’s notice, it offers an eclectic mix of the old and new. The more modern central area of the city is surrounded by a vast ger district where traditionally painted tents are adorned with satellite dishes and surrounded by garden fences. Amid all this, the city offers a wealth of impressive and atmospheric sights including Gandan Khiid, Mongolia’s largest Buddhist monastery, and the extraordinary Winter Palace of the Bogd Khan. 66
Located a couple of hours’ drive to the west of Ulaan Baatar, this beautiful national park is easily accessible, offering those who may not have time to tour the country the chance to experience a night spent in a traditional Mongolian ger. Set amid some of the region’s beautiful steppe scenery, the park is famed as the home of the world’s last truly wild horse species, the Takhi, which had become extinct in the wild until they were reintroduced to the park in the 1990s. The park is also home to a vast amount of other plant and animal life, and boasts recorded sightings of over 40 species of mammal and 200 species of bird.
The Flaming Cliffs at Bayanzag, Gobi Desert
Wild horses, Khustai Nuruu National Park
Gobi Desert & the south The great Gobi Desert extends its reach across much of southern Mongolia and its border with neighbouring China. It is a magnificent place with scenery which is surprisingly varied, ranging from towering sand dunes and distant mountains to more hospitable terrain which teems with life and is home to numerous herds of gazelle and camel. The Flaming Cliffs at Bayanzag are unmissable, a stunning natural formation which glows at sunset with the intensity of fire. Also nearby is the extraordinary Yol Am or Eagle Canyon, a series of gorges so sheer that thick ice remains in their depths throughout even the hot summer months. The ‘singing’ sand dunes of Khongoryn Els are equally unmissable. The area has regular flight connections from the capital or can be visited as part of a longer overland journey.
Gers, Khuvsgul
Man at the Naadam Festival
Terkhiin Tsagaan Lake
Erdene Zhuu Khiid, Karakorum
Karakorum
Khorgo National Park & Central Mongolia
In 1220, Genghis Khan chose to move his capital west from Khentii to Karakorum. Though the city was not completed until after his death it was, for a time, the political, economic and cultural centre of the vast Mongol Empire, housing great palaces, mosques, churches and monasteries representing many of the world’s religions. When visiting today, you would be forgiven for thinking that this unpretentious town was little more than a collection of gers in a pretty river valley, as barely a stone of the original empire now remains. For many Mongolians, however, it retains a symbolic place in the national consciousness which has, in the past few years, reclaimed Genghis Khan as its own. The town is also home to Erdene Zuu Khiid, the oldest Buddhist monastery in the country, and the only surviving reminder of Karakorum’s glorious past.
South of Lake Khuvsgul lies Khorgo National Park, a land of volcanic craters and pine-covered lava fields surrounded by the Khangai mountain range. At the heart of the park is the astonishingly beautiful Terkhiin Tsagaan Lake, a freshwater lake formed by an ancient lava flow, which is a perfect spot for bird and wildlife watching. To the southeast is the Tsenkher Valley, a beautiful stretch of mountains and forests. The monastic ruins at Ongi are also worth a visit.
Khuvsgul & the north Mongolia’s northernmost province, hugging the border of Siberia, is perhaps its most beautiful. In stark contrast to the vast steppe plains of the west and the desolate landscapes of the south, here high mountains give way to sweeping forests of pine and larch, lush grazing meadows and crystal-clear streams. At the heart of the province is the sublime alpine scenery of Lake Khuvsgul, the deepest lake in Central Asia. This is one of Mongolia’s finest natural attractions, offering opportunities for canoeing, horse riding, fishing and hiking. South of here is Uushigiin Uver, a Bronze Age site of sacrificial altars and carved stones surrounded by ancient burial tombs.
Naadam Festival The Naadam Festival is the most important event in the Mongolian calendar and is marked in each and every town and village across the country. Celebrating the three sports of wrestling, archery and horse racing, it is a festival that dates back centuries, once serving as a way in which to train soldiers for battle. Even if the sports themselves do not appeal, the colourful crowds and wonderful atmosphere make it a fine focus for a visit to the country. Events run throughout the country annually for a few days in mid-July and attract visitors from across the globe. At this time accommodation and knowledgeable guides can be scarce, so it is worth booking well in advance.
Man starting his motorcycle, Khuvskul
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Khongoryn Els, Gobi Desert
Ger camps Despite the Soviet occupation of Mongolia, the ger has remained at the heart of Mongolian family life, with about half of the country’s population still choosing to live in these traditional tents. Made of felt, and thus lightweight and well insulated, this remarkable home can be quickly dismantled, packed away and moved to better grazing lands as and when the seasons change. The trappings of modern life have been adapted into this historic way of living – you will often see a ger tent sporting a satellite dish even in the remotest parts of the country. Several generations of the same family often still live together, meaning that many superstitions and beliefs have also been preserved as they are passed from generation to generation. It is this juxtaposition of the old and new, combined with the unfailing hospitality of all Mongolian hosts, that makes staying in a ger camp such a highlight of any trip to the country.
Traditional ger, Mongolia
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Cooking in a ger, Gobi Desert
Staying in a ger camp Generally travellers to Mongolia who venture outside the capital stay in visitor ger camps, a collection of up to thirty tents clustered together around a larger central ger used for meals and entertainment. Long evenings can be spent enjoying the atmosphere and sharing stories with fellow travellers. Accommodation and facilities are simple, although most camps are equipped with a toilet and shower block and have electricity running from a central generator. Individual gers are simple but always cosy and comfortable, usually kitted out with two, three or four wooden beds with bedding, table and chairs and flasks of hot water. The ger is heated by a central woodburning stove, excellent for keeping out the night chill, which will be started for you each evening and usually replenished the following morning before you wake.
A typical evening Evenings in ger camps are the perfect opportunity to enjoy the superb natural scenery and relax in the peaceful wilderness. However, dinner, which is usually a meal of mutton and potatoes or filled dumplings, is more of a communal affair as it is served in a large central ger. Many camps also have a traditional Mongolian throat singing performance after dinner, and you may even find that one of your hosts is a national throat singing star.
Local man outside his ger
Suggested itineraries Tailoring your trip
russia
The itineraries shown are designed to give you a flavour of what is possible, and are routes that work particularly well. We can use these as a basis to plan your trip or can design a completely different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests. Please call one of our Mongolia specialists to start planning your itinerary.
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As there are no direct flights to Ulaan Baatar, the easiest and most convenient option is to take a connecting flight from Beijing. However, another option open to those with more time is to travel on the Trans-Mongolian or the Trans-Siberian train. This offers the ideal opportunity to explore rural Russia en route before disembarking in Ulaan Baatar to head out into the countryside. From Ulaan Baatar, flights radiate to the different corners of Mongolia, which can radically reduce travelling times across these vast distances. Much of the infrastructure beyond the capital is very basic, so we suggest travelling by private 4x4 with a guide, which allows you to stop and meet the locals while travelling in as much comfort as possible.
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Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year.
Mongolia Uncovered
Land of Blue Sky
This fantastic itinerary takes in some of Mongolia’s highlights and is ideal for those wanting to visit this incredible country but who perhaps do not have time for a more extended visit. You will spend time in the capital before exploring the astonishing landscapes of the Gobi Desert and Khustai Nuruu National Park.
A comprehensive itinerary which includes many of the country’s scenic highlights including Khustai Nuruu National Park, Lake Khuvsgul on the border with Siberia, volcanic Khorgo National Park and the remarkable Gobi Desert.
Day 1
Arrive in Beijing and spend the evening relaxing.
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Fly to Ulaan Baatar and explore the Museum of Mongolian National History.
Time difference: GMT+8 hours
Day 1
Arrive in Beijing and either relax or explore the city.
Day 2
Fly to Ulaan Baatar. Explore the Museum of Mongolian National History.
Day 3
Full day city tour with the afternoon at the Winter Palace.
Day 3
Embark on a full day city tour with the afternoon at the Winter Palace.
Day 4
Drive to Khustai Nuruu National Park.
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Fly south to the Gobi and see the Flaming Cliffs at Bayanzag.
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Travel on to Karakorum.
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See Yol Am, known as a wonderful spot to view eagles and other wildlife.
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Continue on to Khorgo National Park.
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Your journey continues as you travel on into the Tsenkher Valley.
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5 Travel is not recommended.
Landlocked Mongolia is subject to an extreme continental climate, with an average of 260 sunny days per year, but with wide variations in temperature between summer and winter. Ulaan Baatar is the world’s coldest capital, and across the country winter temperatures regularly drop to minus 30C (minus 22F) and below. Only the southern Gobi is truly hot in the summer months, though this is also when the little rain that does fall each year is most likely. Given the severity of the winter months, travel beyond Ulaan Baatar is only really feasible during the warmer months between May and October.
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Drive across the desert to the ‘singing’ sand dunes at Khongoryn Els. Continue on to Ongi Khiid, to see these monastic ruins. Travel to the ancient Mongolian capital of Karakorum. Explore the monastery of Erdene Zuu, before continuing on to Khustai Nuruu National Park. Return to Ulaan Baatar via the monastic ruins at Manzushir. Fly back to Beijing with an afternoon at leisure. Travel to the airport for your onward flight.
Prices We offer trips to cater for a wide range of budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices for your trip to Mongolia on our website, alternatively please call our specialists to discuss your plans.
Days 8-9 Drive on towards White Lake and indulge in some wildlife-watching amid the striking scenery. Day 10
Continue north to the hot spring town of Jargalant.
Day 11
Drive on to the ancient deer stones at Uushigiin Uver, west of Moron.
Day 12
Travel up to the magnificent Lake Khuvsgul, via the provincial capital of Moron.
Days 13-14 Time to relax and explore the sights around the lake. Day 15
Fly back to the capital.
Day 16
Fly down to the Gobi Desert. In the evening visit the Flaming Cliffs at Bayanzag.
Day 17
Drive across the desert of the ‘singing’ sand dunes at Khongoryn Els.
Day 18
Visit Eagle Canyon at Yol Am.
Day 19
Fly back to Ulaan Baatar.
Day 20
Fly back to Beijing.
Day 21
Head to the airport for your onward flight.
Statue inside Erdene Zuu Monastery
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Russia A
country of truly epic proportions, Russia covers more than one eighth of the entire world’s inhabited land area, spans nine time zones and encompasses numerous geographical environments. From vast stretches of tundra and steppe in the north and south, to the domineering Caucasus Mountains, the crystal-clear Lake Baikal, and finally fiery Kamchatka in the far east, Russia’s scenery is astonishing, but it is its history and culture which truly make an impression. Long hidden behind the iron curtain, a visit here will confound any preconceptions you might have. Travelling across the country allows you to trace Russia’s history from the cultural and architectural highlights of the west to the poignant abandoned labour camps on the icy Solovetsky Islands. The tremendous monuments in Moscow and Saint Petersburg speak of the opulence and grandeur of the tsars and imposing ambition of the communists, while in remote villages and towns the exquisite onion domed wooden churches and traditional kremlins remain in a land where the rise and fall of communism changed little.
Audley in Russia
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In the Soviet era, hotels in Russia had a reputation for having small rooms, poor service and even worse food. Thankfully, things have moved on since then, and in all the major cities there are well-managed hotels offering good service and a wide range of facilities. Saint Petersburg has the best range of accommodation, with not only some beautiful, historic five star hotels but also a large number of smaller, boutique options. Moscow is a popular business location, so although the quality of hotels here is excellent, they tend to be less characterful.
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Being so enormous and varied, Russia can be experienced in many different ways. Moscow and Saint Petersburg can be combined into a one week trip. For those with slightly less time, a visit to Saint Petersburg would make an ideal city break. The epic Trans-Siberian rail journey linking Russia with China and Mongolia is one of the world’s greatest journeys and showcases Russia’s startling variety. For those who prefer a more leisurely pace, a cruise between Moscow and Saint Petersburg is a relaxing way to see some of the smaller towns and villages of rural Russia. We have travelled extensively in the region, seeking out the best located hotels, the most comfortable and convenient trains, and the best order in which to see things, and will be delighted to share our local knowledge with you.
Solovetski Islands
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Armoury The powerhouse of world communism, where Russia’s rulers still hold sway over the largest country in the world. Housed within the walls of the Kremlin, the Armoury is an extremely impressive display of the wealth and opulence of the tsars. See page 72 2 Suzdal A pretty little town unspoilt by Soviet era architecture, seemingly with a church on every corner. See page 73
One of the world’s most impressive art collections, all housed in the splendour of the former residence of the tsar. See page 75
Wooden church, Suzdal 3 Saint Petersburg’s summer palaces Built by the tsars to escape the heat of the city in summer, visiting these gives you an idea of the unlimited wealth and power of Russia’s imperial rulers. See page 74
Russia’s ballet Both Moscow and Saint Petersburg have exceptional ballet companies famous the world over.
Peterhof Palace, Saint Petersburg
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Saint Basil’s Cathedral, Red Square
The Kremlin & Red Square The iconic Red Square and Kremlin cannot fail to impress. An astounding mix of old and new, severity and whimsy, they have been central to almost every major event in Russian history.
Ladies walking in the snow, Moscow
Moscow For centuries, Moscow has been the political, cultural and economic centre of Russia. From medieval capital to the heart of Soviet domination and now powerhouse of the capitalist revolution, each of these distinct eras has left its legacy on the city. The medieval onion domes of Saint Basil’s sit in stark contrast to the glaring Soviet-era high-rise blocks and gleaming skyscrapers of the 21st century, yet Moscow’s incongruous nature makes the city even more exciting. The list of world-renowned historic sites, great buildings and galleries here is immense: Red Square, the Kremlin, the Pushkin Museum and Tretyakov Galleries, the Novodevichy Convent, Arbat Street and the Bolshoi Theatre, to name but a few. 72
The Kremlin was the heart of Russia’s communist realm for decades, and continues to be the President’s official residence. However, it is actually its notable churches and cathedrals, many of which date back to the 15th century, for which the Kremlin is best known. The Kremlin also houses a superb collection of riches within its Armoury, which speaks of the sheer wealth of the country’s rulers – everything from superbly lavish thrones, crowns and carriages to the largest single collection of Fabergé eggs in the world. In complete contrast to the imposing sight of the Kremlin’s walls, as seen from inside Red Square, is the burst of colour which comes from Saint Basil’s Cathedral at the far end of the square. A fairytale concoction of colourful domes, this 16th-century structure is one of Moscow’s most iconic landmarks.
Kadashevskaya Hotel, Moscow The Kadashevskaya Hotel is a good option for those looking for a centrally located alternative to Moscow’s larger international hotels. Although popular with businesspeople, it has a boutique feel with 35 comfortable rooms. The hotel has a great location on the Moskva River, close to the metro and about a 10-15 minute walk from the Kremlin and Red Square.
Baltschug Kempinski, Moscow One of Moscow’s most luxurious hotels, the Baltschug Kempinski can offer better value over weekends when the city’s business travellers depart. Located just behind Red Square, many of the 227 rooms have views overlooking the square and the Kremlin. With excellent facilities and service, this is a fantastic option when staying in Moscow.
The enormity of Red Square, a vast empty space surrounded by striking monuments on each side, seems only to highlight the country’s power of old, when the square would have been filled with soldiers and tanks on military parades. Baltschug Kempinski, Moscow
Choir in the Cathedral of the Transfiguration, Yaroslavl
The Church of the Intercession on the Nerl, Vladimir
Museum of Wooden Architecture, near Suzdal
Saint John Chrysostomos Church, Yaroslavl
The Golden Ring Strewn about the plains, lakes and marshes northeast of Moscow lie a collection of ancient Russian towns known collectively as the Golden Ring. This region played a significant role in the early days of the Russian state, and the glittering spires and domes of the monasteries and churches still evoke medieval Russia. It is an enchanting area to visit and can be explored either as a day trip from Moscow or as part of a longer, two or three day, journey. It is worth taking the time to visit the key towns, known for their wealth of architectural and artistic riches, which give the Golden Ring its name.
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Vladimir
A large, laid-back town of tree-lined avenues with a fascinating old centre, Yaroslavl was founded by Prince Yaroslavl the Wise, who purportedly came to the area to kill a bear which was serving as a god-figure for the local forestdwelling people. As the first port on the Volga, Yaroslavl developed due to trade from the Middle East and Europe during the 16th and 17th centuries. It was its importance as a trading port that drew rich merchants to the town, who then built progressively elaborate churches as manifestations of their wealth. The frescoes of the Church of Elijah the Prophet are among the best in the country, and the heavily fortified Monastery of the Transfiguration of the Saviour holds some of Russia’s oldest religious icons.
Founded as a fort in 1108, Vladimir rose briefly to become one of the most important towns in Russia. Though the town has slipped from prominence, it still retains some of the nation’s most beautiful buildings from those halcyon days, and remains both an interesting and relaxing place to explore. A few small museums in town complement the Assumption Cathedral, which contains murals dating back to 1161, and the nearby Cathedral of Saint Dmitry with its magnificent stone carving and masonry work. A little out of town, the Church of the Intercession on the Nerl sits peacefully in a splendid waterside setting.
Suzdal The former capital of ancient Russia, riverside Suzdal has blessedly remained a relatively undeveloped, quiet town whose idyllic surrounding countryside of flower meadows and gentle streams gives it a highly attractive setting. Founded in the 11th century, the tranquil collection of wooden cottages, churches and monasteries make this a delightful place to experience the atmosphere of pre-Soviet Russia, with many parts of the town unchanged since the Middle Ages. Cathedral of Saint Dmitry, Vladimir
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Palace Embankment, Saint Petersburg
Saint Petersburg A gloriously attractive city, Saint Petersburg boasts a magnificent profusion of grand buildings, galleries and theatres, and is perhaps Russia’s most opulent cultural destination. Founded in 1703 by Peter the Great and the heart of the Russian Empire at its most splendid and extravagant, Saint Petersburg was bestowed with a legacy of wealth and sophistication which is evident in the city’s architectural style, its excessive art collections and its vast palaces.
Helvetia Hotel, Saint Petersburg The Helvetia is in a charming 19 th-century building located a short stroll from Saint Petersburg’s main thoroughfare, Nevsky Prospekt. It offers good value accommodation in the heart of the city, with 75 comfortable, classically decorated rooms all set around a pleasant courtyard. The hotel has two restaurants available for guests, or there are many other options available nearby.
The country’s greatest writers and composers, including Dostoevsky and Tchaikovsky, produced their finest works here and today the Kirov (now the Mariinsky) Ballet continues to rival Moscow’s more celebrated Bolshoi. Located towards the north of the country, Saint Petersburg is host to annual ‘White Nights’ celebrations when the midsummer sun doesn't quite disappear overnight. During this time, the city swarms with life and numerous celebratory events are staged, including an open air cinema on one of the bridges and a festival held at the Mariinsky, Conservatoire and Hermitage theatres. In the depths of winter, snow-covered scenes transform Saint Petersburg into a fairytale city, and spring and autumn offer pleasantly mild temperatures and a break from the crowds of summer. Helvetia Hotel, Saint Petersburg
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Saint Petersburg’s summer palaces The area surrounding Saint Petersburg is littered with lavish summer palaces, built by several of Russia’s rulers in order to escape the heat and smell of the city during the summer. The oldest and perhaps best known is Peterhof, the palace of Peter the Great, which was built overlooking the Gulf of Finland. While the interiors are relatively modest in comparison with other palaces, Peterhof is most famous for its excellent series of fountains, known as the Grand Cascade. Conversely, the palace of Catherine the Great is excessive in its sumptuousness. Designed by Rastrelli (architect of the Hermitage), its gold façade is matched by its impressive, costly furnishings and decor. The palace’s centrepiece, the Amber Room, contains more than six tonnes of amber. Nearby Pavlovsk Palace was built by Catherine the Great’s son and is not nearly so richly decorated as the others. However, its grounds are enchanting to explore, with chapels, follies and dilapidated statues hidden among the trees.
Saint Isaac’s Cathedral, Saint Petersburg
Grand Cascade, Peterhof Palace
Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood, Saint Petersburg
Belmond Grand Hotel Europe, Saint Petersburg Russia’s oldest and arguably grandest hotel, the Belmond Grand Hotel Europe is something of a legend. It sits proudly on Nevsky Prospekt opposite the Gostiny Dvor luxury market and the Mikaelovsky Theatre. The 301 rooms and suites are elegantly decorated with antique furniture to complement the grand style of the hotel. Visited by Tchaikovsky and his wife on their honeymoon, a string quartet plays every Friday evening in the main restaurant. The hotel also boasts a caviar restaurant, a cigar bar and its own chocolatier, among other delights. Under the renowned management of Belmond, the hotel boasts a level of excellence that is hard to beat. Perfectly located to enjoy the main sights of the city, it is just moments from the Russian Museum, Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood and the striking Kazan Cathedral.
The Hermitage Located mainly in the magnificent Winter Palace, the State Hermitage is a vast assortment of art, jewellery and antique furniture acquired by the Romanov Tsars. Catherine the Great began this enormous venture by purchasing a number of major collections of paintings, drawings, books, coins and medals during her reign. The collection expanded substantially following the 1917 Bolshevik Revolution, when the state seized the artworks, antiques and heirlooms of many of Russia’s noble families
and leading industrialists. With artefacts spanning from prehistoric times right through to the 20 th century, and items from all over the world, it would be impossible to inspect everything in a week, let alone a day. Instead, it is recommended to pick a few areas to concentrate on. To see another side of the Hermitage, we recommend watching a ballet in Catherine the Great’s private ballet theatre; small and intimate, it is nonetheless quite extraordinarily decorated.
The Grand Hotel Europe, Saint Petersburg
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Tailoring your trip The itineraries shown are designed to give you a flavour of what is possible, and are routes that work particularly well. We can use these as a basis to plan your trip or can design a completely different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests. Please call one of our Russia specialists to start planning your itinerary.
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Getting around Russia is easy to explore and we can provide guidance to help you discover the country under your own steam. Alternatively, we can arrange private tours within the cities, or journeys into the countryside. The efficient rail network is best for longer journeys and certainly between Saint Petersburg and Moscow this is a better option than flying. If you have longer to complete this journey then a river cruise is an excellent option to allow you to see some of Russia’s countryside. For those heading east, the great Trans-Siberian railway can be undertaken in its entirety, or alternatively experienced in sections, with domestic flights used to cover the great distances quickly and efficiently.
When to go
Lighting votives in the Cathedral of St. Sophia, Novgorod
Novgorod Novgorod is located three hours south of Saint Petersburg and remains one of the most significant historical centres in the whole of Russia. Its diverse and beautiful architecture is famed across the country and the reconstructed kremlin, the centrepiece of the town, encircles the beautiful Cathedral of St. Sophia, perhaps the oldest building in Russia. The city itself dates back to the 9 th century, when it developed into one of Russia’s principal trading and ecclesiastical hubs. Overflowing with cultural relics, it is the home of the Palace of Facets, a 15th-century clock tower, 12th-century frescoes in the Cathedral
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Detail of the Cathedral of St. Sophia gates, Novgorod
of St. Sophia and numerous impressive churches, museums and galleries. Novgorod can be visited as a day trip from Saint Petersburg, or for a slightly longer stay, en route between Moscow and Saint Petersburg.
Russia can be visited at any time of the year, with different benefits and highlights in each season. Summer, June, July and August, with its long, light evenings and balmy temperatures, is the classic time to visit these northerly climes, however, it can get very busy. We would also suggest late September and early October as being a great time to visit – the weather is not yet cold and sites are less crowded. Winter, from December to March is also a much under-rated time. If you can bear the freezing temperatures, you will be rewarded with wonderful snowy vistas, reduced prices and far fewer visitors. Time difference: GMT+3 hours
Prices We offer trips to cater for a wide range of budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices for your trip to Russia on our website, alternatively please call our specialists to discuss your plans.
Aerial view of Novgorod Kremlin
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Suggested itineraries Kizhi Saint Petersburg
Mandrogui
Saint Petersburg russia
russia Saint Petersburg
Suzdal
Moscow
Classic Russia Moscow and Saint Petersburg are unmissable destinations for any first time visitor to Russia. Moscow has a real buzz and swagger about it, while Saint Petersburg is a little more refined and aristocratic. Both cities have a plethora of iconic sites, and are great to combine in a week-long trip. Day 1
Arrive in Moscow, see Red Square and the Kremlin, travelling on the ornate Metro system.
Day 2
Continue to explore Moscow, visiting Novodevichy Convent.
Start exploring Saint Petersburg, with a guided tour of the Hermitage in the afternoon.
Day 5
Continue exploring the city, perhaps visiting the Russian Museum, or taking a stroll along the city’s beautiful canals.
Day 7
Moscow
Moscow, Saint Petersburg & the Golden Ring This itinerary is ideal for those wishing to explore the main sights of both Moscow and Saint Petersburg as well as experiencing a couple of days in Russia’s historic Golden Ring towns. Taking you to Vladimir and Suzdal, this itinerary offers a glimpse of rural life and affords the opportunity to view some of the world’s most sumptuous and ornate Orthodox churches and cathedrals, many of which have been awarded UNESCO World Heritage status. Day 1
Spend the morning discovering Moscow before taking the high speed train to Saint Petersburg.
Day 4
Day 6
Uglich
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Day 3
Goritsy
A further day to visit the Summer Palace of Catherine the Great, and spend the afternoon drinking up more of the beautiful city centre. Depending on your flight time, visit the palace of Peterhof before boarding your onward flight.
Stay longer You can easily spend a day or two more in Saint Petersburg.
Arrive in Moscow. Take a walking tour of the Kremlin complex and discover the spectacular treasures in the Armoury.
Day 2
Explore Moscow under your own steam, perhaps visiting the Tretyakov gallery, the country’s most important gallery for Russian art.
Day 3
Travel out of the city to the pretty towns of Suzdal and Vladimir.
Day 4
Enjoy a half day guided tour of Suzdal and its picturesque wooden buildings.
Day 5
Return to Moscow in time for a train to Saint Petersburg.
Day 6
Begin your exploration of Saint Petersburg including a morning tour of the Hermitage.
Day 7
Travel out to the spectacular Peterhof Palace by hydrofoil.
Day 8
Visit the Summer Palace of Catherine the Great.
Day 9
Head to the airport for your onward flight.
Moscow
Classic Russia River Cruise This trip combines some of the highlights of Moscow and Saint Petersburg with a relaxing river cruise to experience the wonderful countryside along the rivers that link these two remarkable cities. You’ll pass through sleepy villages and fabulous scenery on this leisurely journey. Day 1
Arrive in Moscow.
Day 2
A full day tour of Moscow, including the Kremlin.
Day 3
Depart Moscow, arriving in Uglich in the afternoon.
Day 4
Cruise on to Goritsy.
Day 5
Continue to the island of Kizhi with its fairytale wooden churches.
Day 6
You’ll arrive in the village of Mandrogui in time for lunch on shore before continuing to Saint Petersburg.
Day 7
Arrive in Saint Petersburg, where you’ll have a full day tour of the city.
Day 8
Travel to the airport for your onward flight
Stay longer There are many other historic Golden Ring towns that could be visited as part of this trip, such as Yaroslavl. You can also easily spend a day or two more in Saint Petersburg. Wooden churches on Kizhi Island
Elaborately decorated Metro station, Moscow
www.audleytravel.com/russia • 01993 838 230 •Russia
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FINLAND
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Saint Petersburg from the Neva River
Russian river cruises Relaxing on a river cruise between Moscow and Saint Petersburg is one of the best ways to see some of the beautiful scenery and small villages Russia’s countryside has to offer. Littered with pretty villages, ancient churches and astounding monasteries, this part of Russia is truly charming. None of the boats which travel this route are particularly luxurious, but the ones we use offer what we consider to be the best experience.
Kizhi In the middle of Lake Onega lies Kizhi, home to one of Russia’s most iconic sites – the Church of the Transfiguration. Built entirely of wood in 1714 and with thirty domes, the church looks like something out of a fairytale. There are a number of other notable wooden buildings on Kizhi that have been brought from the surrounding area to create an interesting display.
The route Moscow and Saint Petersburg are connected by the mighty Volga, a series of canals, and the two largest lakes in Europe, Lake Onega and Lake Ladoga. Boats stop along the way at various small villages as well as Golden Ring towns, where you have the chance to explore the pretty churches and monasteries. The longer cruises spend more time here, while the shorter ones just give you a taste of the region. It is possible to travel from Moscow to Saint Petersburg or vice versa.
Passing through a lock on the Volga River
Goritsy Approximately half way between Moscow and Saint Petersburg is Goritsy, famed as the place where Ivan the Terrible exiled not one, but two, of his wives. Nearby is the Kirillo Belozersky Monastery, which was once one of the country’s most powerful monastic settlements. Mandrogui Completely destroyed in WWII, but then rebuilt to preserve a traditional way of life, the small village of Mandrogui has become something of a living museum. Its old wooden houses, colourfully decorated by paintings and wooden engravings, create a traditional atmosphere and show visitors what life used to be like hundreds of years ago. There is also an extensive vodka museum, housing more than 2,000 different types of the country’s national drink.
M/S Tolstoy Named after the author, this ship is one of the more comfortable vessels cruising on Russia’s rivers. Constructed for high ranking Kremlin officials and to host foreign dignitaries, the M/S Tolstoy carries 160 passengers and is equipped with a small sauna as well as a sun deck, bar and restaurant serving traditional Russian and European cuisine.
Volga Dream
View of the Kremlin over the Moskva River, Moscow
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One of the more luxurious boats on the river, the Volga Dream carries 106 passengers and prides itself on its excellent standard of accommodation, food and service. Its relatively small size creates a more personal experience. The ship offers various cultural lectures and activities as well as traditional piano concerts.
Useful information Contact us
Terms & Conditions and Travel Insurance
Address: Audley Travel, New Mill, New Mill Lane, Witney, Oxfordshire OX29 9SX, United Kingdom. London Office: Audley Travel, Monsoon Building, 1 Nicholas Road, London W11 4AN, United Kingdom.
Your booking is subject to the terms and conditions of Audley Travel which are detailed in the booking form. It is vital that you have adequate travel insurance and we are able to suggest a number of policies either for the duration of your trip or on an annual basis.
Flights
AITO Membership
There are a variety of airlines that fly directly to China, Russia and Central Asia from London Heathrow, with British Airways currently offering the greatest coverage. We choose the appropriate airline for you based on current airfares and taxes, your preference for travel and your itinerary. Connecting flights from regional UK airports can also be arranged. There are also several airlines which fly indirectly to many destinations via European cities, which often offer convenient connections from regional airports. Central Asia and Tibet can usually only be reached with indirect flights, with Uzbekistan being the exception to this as Uzbekistan Airways offers flights between London and Tashkent.
Audley is a member of the Association of Independent Tour Operators. The association represents Britain’s leading independent tour operators and encourages high standards of quality and service. Audley abides by the Association’s Code of Conduct and adheres to the AITO Quality Charter which can be viewed on www.aito.com Songzanlin Monastery, Zhongdian, China
Honeymoons A honeymoon to Russia, China or Central Asia would make for a memorable trip. For most destinations, it’s possible to combine some of the cultural highlights with time in a luxury hotel to relax. China in particular has an increasing number of good quality resorts in a variety of locations. The beaches of Southeast Asia or Okinawa in Japan are also easily combined with a trip to this region.
Group tours
Photography in this brochure We would like to thank the following photographers and organisations for the images used in this brochure: Alamy, Audley staff, clients and suppliers, AWL images, Bill Hobdell, iStockphoto, Robert Harding, Superstock, tourist boards. All images used in this brochure were obtained in good faith by Audley Travel Group Limited and in the belief that all necessary consents and clearances were obtained for their use. For any queries relating to photography please contact us on 01993 838 040.
In addition to our tailor-made tours, we offer a small programme of guided small group tours, typically of no more than 16 travellers. Not only does this make for a much more sociable group but it also enables us to use smaller and more characterful accommodation and venture away from the large tour groups. We offer two tours a year along the Silk Route which have become very popular and are an alternative to a tailor-made itinerary. Fisherman in Lijiang, China
www.audleytravel.com/groups
Saint Basil’s Cathedral in Moscow, Russia
Visit our offices
www.audleytravel.com
If you would like to discuss your travel arrangements in person we welcome personal visits, please call in advance to arrange an appointment with one or more of our country specialists. Our offices are at the New Mill, a 17th-century converted wool mill on the outskirts of Witney, ten miles west of Oxford, on the edge of the Cotswolds. We also have an office in west London, if this is more convenient for you.
Our website is packed with information, features and advice covering all our destinations across the globe. On the site you can browse by theme, interest or region as well as viewing additional accommodation options and itineraries that are not featured in this brochure. You can request all our brochures online or contact us via the website where there is the option to tell us about your plans so that we can start tailoring your itinerary.
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Useful information
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New Mill, New Mill Lane, Witney, Oxfordshire OX29 9SX, United Kingdom Telephone: 01993 838 200 • Fax: 01993 838 010 Email: nca@audleytravel.com • Website: www.audleytravel.com
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