Audley Indian Subcontinent by Travel Designers

Th e I n d i a n S u b co n ti n e n t

Ta i lor - m a d e J o u r n e y s

for

the

D i s c e r n i n g T r av e l l e r

Dear Traveller The vast and varied Indian Subcontinent offers unforgettable, unusual and fascinating experiences. Over the years I have been lucky enough to explore parts of each country, from Kerala’s backwaters to the dzongs of Bhutan. Constantly searching for new experiences and places to stay, our Indian Subcontinent specialists continue to visit our favourite spots and branch out into the unknown too. We’ve found hidden treasures in Gujarat, gone off-the-beaten-track in the Deccan Plateau and travelled as far north as we can to both Ladakh in India and Jaffna in Sri Lanka. The Araveli Cottages and Tented Camp is nestled within the hills of rural Rajasthan and is both fascinating and rewarding to visit. This fantastic and fun project aims to break the cycle of poverty in the surrounding communities, by helping them to become self-sufficient. With so much to do, it’s easy to fill your time exploring, but our specialists can recommend ways to relax too, with time on a beach, at a rural mountain retreat or on a traditional houseboat.

Craig Burkinshaw, Founder Director

Introducing Audley I

t was a trip around Asia in the early 1990s that ignited Craig Burkinshaw’s passion for travel. On his return he was so keen to share his experiences that he founded Audley, or Asian Journeys as we were then called. We offered a new type of travel – individual journeys, designed to match the traveller’s interests, tastes and budget, created with an absolute commitment to quality and authenticity. Today this desire to share authentic travel experiences is undiminished and Audley is one of the UK’s most highly regarded specialist tour operators, providing tailor-made trips throughout Asia, Africa, the Middle East, Latin America, Australasia, North America, Antarctica and the Arctic.

Specialist knowledge

Tailor-made journeys

Speaking to one of our specialists is the best way to start planning your trip, whether you already know where you want to go or just have the seed of an idea. They can discuss your plans, offer advice and give you ideas and inspiration for your trip, before creating a detailed itinerary, which will be forwarded to you together with maps, accommodation descriptions and a price. The same specialist will then refine the plans until you are completely satisfied and will be on hand to answer questions from your very first telephone call until you return from your trip.

The beauty of tailor-made travel is that every trip is unique. Whether you want to stay in simple or luxurious accommodation, have great guides on hand or explore under your own steam, travel for one week or five, we can create a trip to match your tastes and budget. We can also design trips for a special occasion, whether this is a spectacular honeymoon or milestone anniversary. Throughout the brochure you will find suggested itineraries and some of our favourite places to stay, but these are all just for inspiration as each trip is created uniquely for you and there are many more options available.

Our Indian Subcontinent specialists have all travelled extensively throughout the region and in many cases lived there, so you can rely on their in-depth, first-hand knowledge. They regularly return to discover new hidden gems in each country, stay in the accommodation and meet our guides – many of whom are firm friends – as well as experience all the excursions and activities. We believe this is the only way that we can genuinely offer you a tailor-made service and enable you to experience a side of these countries that others might miss.

Planning your trip

Financial security All travel arrangements in this brochure that include a flight from the UK are ATOL protected by the Civil Aviation Authority. Our ATOL number is 4817. Please see our booking conditions for more information. If your arrangements do not include any flights from the UK they are protected by a separate financial scheme, for further details please visit www.audleytravel.com/protect

Contents Introduction 2-7 Rajasthan & the north 8-27 Rural Rajasthan

14-15

Araveli Cottages and Tented Camp Forts & Palaces

18 24-25

Calcutta & the east 28-33 River cruising

Indian Himalaya 34-45 Trekking & village walks

Mumbai, Goa & central India 46-55 Under the skin of Mumbai

Trains & rail journeys

Tamil Nadu & Karnataka 56-67 Kerala 68-81 Homestays

74-75

Wildlife in India 82-89 Sri Lanka 90-105 Off the beaten track

Sri Lanka’s wildlife

100-101

The Maldives 106-111 Nepal 112-119 Walking & trekking in Nepal

116-117

Bhutan 120-127 Amankora journey

125

Tibet 128-130 Useful information 131

Introduction

Audley in the

Indian Subcontinent F

rom ancient Mughal empires and history spanning thousands of years to today’s sprawling technology hubs, India is now home to well over one billion people. The diversity continues when you take India’s neighbours into consideration; Nepal and Bhutan to the north, Sri Lanka and the Maldives to the south. From the tallest Himalayan peaks to the Maldivian corals, the variety of this region is only matched by its welcoming and incredible people.

Tsechu, Bhutan

People

Religion

A melting pot of religions, cultures and historic ancestry, the people of this vast subcontinent make up over 17% of the world’s population. Tamil people are found in southern India and Sri Lanka, whilst Bhutan, Nepal and Tibet are home to Tibeto-Burman people. Kerala and the southwestern states have a strong Syrian-Christian population. These groups and many more can trace their roots back to invasions from the Turks, Pashtuns and Mughals. Traditions and values remain strong and you are able to experience them with the help of a local guide.

Wherever you go in the subcontinent, you’ll see how much religion plays a part of day-to-day life. Hinduism is the main religion in India and travelling across the country you will see signs of many other faiths from Goa and Kerala’s churches and Jain temples at Ranakpur to the Jama Masjid Mosque in Delhi and Amritsar’s incredible Sikh Golden Temple.

History

Bengal tiger, Bandhavgarh National Park

Before India’s independence in 1947, it had been ruled by various leaders, invaders and countries for thousands of years since the first settlements were thought to have developed on the Indus Plains. Territories have been fought over, with some of the continent’s northern borders still in dispute today. Trade routes, languages and cultures have changed but all left their stamp. From Tibetan communities and ethnic groups in the northeast, to British expats remaining from the colonial rule, they help keep the continent’s history alive.

Tea harvesting, Nuwara Eliya, Sri Lanka

Prayer wheels, Nepal

Around 75% of the Bhutanese population strictly follow Buddhism but Hinduism is the main religion in Nepal. Tales of Buddha always lead back to the subcontinent, as do many fables of Hinduism’s endless deities and gods. Buddhism is the main religion across Sri Lanka, however Hinduism and Christianity are found more prominently in the north due to the Tamil population.

Festivals India’s renowned festivals fill the year and although many are local and undiscovered by visitors, the iconic celebrations which bring everyone together are Diwali, the Festival of Lights and the messy, paint-filled, Holi. Filled with colour, music, food and dancing, the Indian Subcontinent is famous for its abundance of lively festivals. The Perahera in Kandy, central Sri Lanka, is known for its dancers and acrobats who form a procession through the town’s streets alongside decorated temple elephants, however things are more low-key in Nepal where local cattle are taken to the capital of Kathmandu to remember loved ones. Bhutan’s annual festivals are known as ‘Tsechus’; religious celebrations of colour and traditional dance.

Leh

JAMMU & KASHMIR

180 miles

290 kilometres

HIMACHAL PRADESH

Shimla H

PUNJAB

PAKISTAN

HARYANA

i m

CHINA

l a

a ARUNACHAL PRADESH

NEPAL

DELHI

Jodhpur

BHUTAN

KATHMANDU

RAJASTHAN

SIKKIM

Agra

Darjeeling

UTTAR PRADESH

Jaipur

Ga n ge s

Udaipur Ahmedabad GUJARAT

Deccan

ASSAM

Guwahati

Varanasi BIHAR WEST BENGAL

INDIA

MADHYA PRADESH

pu hma Bra

li H ug

Khajuraho

THIMPU

tra

Amritsar

BANGLADESH

Calcutta ORISSA

Plateau

Bhubaneshwar Aurangabad Mumbai

Sea bian Ara

an ce

In di a

Hyderabad

MAHARASHTRA

ANDHRA PRADESH

GOA KARNATAKA

ANDAMAN ISLANDS

Bangalore Mysore

KERALA

Cochin MALE

Chennai

TAMIL NADU

Madurai SRI LANKA

Trivandrum COLOMBO

Kandy

MALDIVES

Food

Wildlife

Although countries of the West may not embrace Dosa (a type of pancake made with rice batter and lentils) for breakfast, Indian cuisine is high on the list of favourites. From traditional meat curries – or seafood more commonly in the south and Sri Lanka – to simpler dhal (lentil) or aloo (potato) dishes, there’s something for all palates, all incredibly tasty and cooked with local spices. Sri Lanka is similar to south India, the food a little lighter, often with fish caught fresh and locally. Across Nepal you’ll be offered momos (stuffed dumplings) and in Bhutan, Emadatse (whole chillies cooked in a cheese sauce) is the national dish. For those with a sweet tooth, try Gulab Jamun (sweet dumplings cooked in rose flavoured syrup) for dessert.

When thinking about the Indian Subcontinent’s wildlife, the Bengal tiger comes to mind and justly so as their healthy populations continue to attract visitors to its national parks every year. Tigers aside, Gujarat is the singular habitat for the Asiatic lion, Kaziranga and Nepal are home to one-horned rhino, and Sri Lanka can offer sightings of leopards, whales, dolphins, elephants and many other incredible species. The birdlife is also extremely varied, the black-necked crane in Bhutan is a particular highlight for enthusiasts. We do our best to offer you an incredible wildlife experience whilst conscientiously monitoring what’s available. In some cases we do not offer visits to sanctuaries or orphanages because they do not operate responsibly.

Mountains Stretching across six countries, including India, Bhutan and Nepal, the Himalaya mountain range offers incredible scenery, a huge range of walking and trekking options, as well as a good variety of accommodation choices. Whether you prefer leisurely day walks, multi-day hikes or a more challenging trek, we can make recommendations to suit your preference and fitness levels. Hotels vary from luxurious lodges and family-run guesthouses to tents, but wherever you stay, your local guide will make sure you’re comfortable and get the most from your Himalaya experience.

Beaches The Maldives continue to be one of the most popular beach destinations in the world for true escapism, but sandy beaches can also be found in the states of Goa and Kerala in India’s southwest, as well as on the beautiful island of Sri Lanka. Sri Lanka has long stretches of beach in the southwest as well as the less-visited eastern coast; the season in which you plan to travel can stipulate which will be best. 01993 838 300 • Introduction

India O

ne of the most vibrant and varied countries, in more way than one, India steals the heart of most visitors and offers an unforgettable journey wherever you travel to. With the Himalayan peaks, ancient cities and deserts of the north, and the rich jungles, rivers, tea hills and beaches of the south, there are seemingly endless places to explore, hike, relax, cruise or just soak up the local atmosphere. From lodges perched in national parks, traditional havelis and luxury camps to houseboats and characterful homestays, wherever you stay you’ll be met with a warm smile. A truly beautiful country with rich, historic culture, India will provoke a desire to return.

Rajasthan & the north Bustling markets, sprawling cities, quaint villages and rich history make Rajasthan and its neighbouring states popular destinations. The people are warm, welcoming and accommodation is varied and interesting. For a more rural experience, head to Gujarat; less-visited with a fascinating crafts and textile culture and unique wildlife opportunities.

Leh INDIAN HIMALAYA

Amritsar

180 miles

290 kilometres

CHINA

Shimla

PAKISTAN

Calcutta & the east DELHI

Jodhpur

Jaipur

BHUTAN

Darjeeling

RAJASTHAN & THE NORTH

Udaipur

INDIA’S CENTRAL PARKS

CALCUTTA & THE EAST

Calcutta

Bhubaneshwar

Sea

MUMBAI, GOA & CENTRAL

Hyderabad

In di an

bian Ara

Aurangabad

TAMIL NADU & KARNATAKA

Bangalore Mysore

Mumbai, Goa & central India

KERALA

A place of contrasts, central India is home to the beautiful beaches of Goa, one of India’s smallest states, as well as Mumbai, the largest city with a population of over 21 million. A sprawling metropolis of incredible wealth, as well as the largest slum in Asia, Mumbai is the international gateway into the south as well as the little-visited Deccan Plateau. Full of cultural treasures and a history spanning centuries, it’s worth spending some time here.

CALCUTTA & THE EAST

BANGLADESH

INDIA

Mumbai

Guwahati

u ap hm Bra

Varanasi Khajuraho

Ahmedabad

Indian Himalaya Stretching from west to east across the top of India, the mighty Himalaya not only provides fascinating places to explore, but also endless walking opportunities, from a few gentle hours to multi-day treks. The mighty mountains and their foothills are home to many monasteries, rural villages, temples and colonial hill stations.

NEPAL

Agra

tra

A gateway to the northeast, Calcutta is a lively and historic city which shouldn’t be missed. Enjoy the colonial grandeur before taking a cruise along West Bengal’s Hugli River or Assam’s powerful Brahmaputra. Full of wildlife, tea plantations, great walks and views of the Himalaya, the region is remote but rewarding.

Cochin Trivandrum

ANDAMAN ISLANDS

Chennai

Madurai

SRI LANKA

Tamil Nadu & Karnataka

Kerala

Wildlife in India

Situated between the eastern Coromandel Coast and the striking Western Ghats, Tamil Nadu is a distinct region with its own language, history and religion. Karnataka stretches up and along the Arabian coast, bordering Goa. Both states are home to varied landscapes, jungles, tea plantations and a host of wildlife.

One of India’s most popular destinations, Kerala is known for its beautiful backwaters, traditional rice barges, palm-fringed beaches and welcoming homestay accommodation options. As well as the colonial history found in the tea hills and Cochin’s fort, the people of Kerala make a stay here one to remember.

Since 1936 India has been protecting its incredible wildlife and now has over 90 national parks home to elephants, Asiatic lions, river dolphins and one-horned rhino to name a few. The vast array of birdlife, both indigenous and migratory attracts a lot of visitors, as does the opportunity of seeing a beautiful Bengal tiger.

01993 838 330 • India

Rajasthan & the north T

he jewel in India’s crown, Rajasthan is home to some of the country’s most magnificent architectural wonders with lavish palaces, forts and mansions built by a series of flamboyant royal families. The state’s historic cities are fascinating places to explore with the romance of lakeside Udaipur contrasting with the splendour of Jaipur. In neighbouring Uttar Pradesh you’ll find the iconic Taj Mahal and the magical holy city of Varanasi. In fact, right across India’s north, the legacy of Mughal invaders and Rajput warriors lives on in vast fortifications and unrivalled achievements in architecture, art and empire building. This rich and complex history is matched by an equally impressive and incredibly diverse landscape that stretches from the Arabian Sea through the Thar Desert to the vast central plains south of the Ganges River. The north’s pastoral rural areas are a marked contrast to the frenetic pace of the cities and a handful of national parks protect incredibly varied habitats home to a wide range of wildlife including Bengal tigers and the world’s last Asiatic lions.

Audley in Rajasthan & the north The spectacular monuments, colourful cities and classic sights of Rajasthan and the north make it a popular first stop for visitors to India. The region’s highlights can be busy, especially around the Golden Triangle of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur, but we’ve worked hard to provide more unusual experiences to give you a unique insight into life in this diverse region. Unusual destinations we’re keen to recommend include quieter wildlife parks such as Chambal, or less-discovered states like Gujarat. Whatever you decide to do, we will build a unique experience around your interests and help you get the best out of your time by providing knowledgeable, local guides as well as a private driver. The type and depth of guiding is determined by you and should you prefer, you can always explore under your own steam.

Accommodation Rajasthan is one of India’s most established destinations and the range of accommodation here is unmatched elsewhere in the subcontinent. Whether you are looking for unbridled luxury or a simple homestay we can match you to a suitable property hand-picked by our specialists. The northern region as a whole has some of the most characterful hotels in India with accommodation in restored forts and palaces, converted havelis (historic family mansions), and on tranquil farms. You’ll find a range of interesting places to stay, which just adds to the appeal.

100 miles

161 kilometres

PUNJAB

HARYANA

PAKISTAN

Bikaner

DELHI

Shekhawati

Jaisalmer

RAJASTHAN

Jodhpur

Bharatpur National Park

Agra

Jaipur

Chambal Sanctuary

Ranthambhore National Park

Gwalior Orchha

4 Udaipur

Khajuraho

8 Bhuj

Little Rann of Kutch National Park

9 Ahmedabad

UTTAR PRADESH

MADHYA PRADESH

Varanasi

INDIA

GUJARAT

Sasan Gir National Park

1 Taj Mahal One of the world’s most beautiful buildings, best visited at sunrise or sunset for evocative photographs and fewer visitors. See page 11 2 Old Delhi Explore the historic side of India’s capital city from its ancient forts, mosques and tombs to the bustling bazaars of Chandi Chowk. See page 10 3 Varanasi

Colourful, chaotic and endlessly engaging, Varanasi is one of India’s most sacred and varied cities. See page 22

Maheshwar

4 Ranthambhore

National Park Search for Bengal tigers in this beautiful park which is easily accessible from Rajasthan’s Golden Triangle. See page 13

8 Udaipur Wrapped around Lake Pichola, Udaipur is the perfect city to end a trip, it’s both romantic and easy to explore at a relaxing pace. See page 17

5 Jaipur Home to endless markets, an impressive city palace and one of the world’s largest sundials. See page 12

9 Gujarat Culture rich, the undiscovered state of Gujarat has lots of similarities with Rajasthan but without the crowds. See pages 20-21

6 Jodhpur The atmospheric ‘Blue City’ is steeped in history from its ancient bazaar to its grand clock tower and impressive Mehrangarh Fort. See page 13 7 Rural Rajasthan Relax in and around the unchanged villages of the north for an authentic insight into rural India. See pages 14-15

River Ganges, Varanasi

Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur

www.audleytravel.com/northindia • 01993 838 345 • Rajasthan & the north

Humayun's Tomb, Delhi

Delhi One of the world’s megacities, Delhi can appear overwhelming at first but scratch just beneath the surface and you’ll find medieval fortifications, Mughal mosques and colonial gems that reward visitors willing to explore. An ancient city established in 1000 BC, today Delhi is a captivating fusion of old and new. You can see the main sights in a day or two by taking in the ruined tombs and monuments of the 12th-century Qutub Minar complex, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the expansive Red Fort and the Jama Masjid Mosque. You’ll also get a feel for New Delhi in the wide tree-lined avenues and distinct architecture, designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens. To discover the city’s hidden charms however, you’ll need more time to leave the bustling city streets behind; uncover a tranquil courtyard in Old Delhi, walk through Lodi Gardens at sunset, or browse the spice shops and food stalls of Chandi Chowk.

Imperial Hotel, Delhi

The Claridges, Delhi Ideally located for exploring Delhi, the Art Deco infused Claridges is now over 60 years old and despite multiple renovations, retains its 1950s charm. The 137 rooms and suites have plenty of modern facilities but some of the original features remain. In addition to afternoon tea in the gardens or an evening in the Aura vodka bar, there are four dining options to choose from including Dhaba, famous for its rustic charm and traditional north Indian cuisine.

The Manor, Delhi

The Claridges, Delhi

Imperial Hotel, Delhi Built in 1931, the Imperial Hotel remains one of Delhi’s most luxurious places to stay. This lavish building was seven years in the making and retains many colonial touches with high ceilings, antique furniture and shining marble floors. Its 235 beautiful guestrooms are classically elegant with Burmese teak furniture and pale colour schemes. The hotel is just a stone’s throw from Connaught Place and many of the city’s sights. After a day exploring you can unwind in the Imperial Spa, enjoy the hotel’s impressive art collection or book a table at the southeast Asian Spice Route restaurant.

With multiple awards and accolades to its name, the Indian Accent fusion restaurant is possibly more famous than the Manor hotel itself. As well as being home to one of India’s best places to eat, this boutique hideaway in New Delhi has 14 modern rooms and suites, pretty gardens and courtyards, as well as Zehen, a contemporary spa.

The Manor, Delhi

Bateshwar temples, near Chambal

Chilli peppers and spices, Agra

Local man, Agra

Women drying saris in view of the Taj Mahal, Agra

The Oberoi Amarvilas, Agra

Agra Millions of visitors flock to Agra each year to see one of the world’s most iconic buildings, the Taj Mahal. A stunning monument to enduring love, this extraordinary edifice, with its shimmering marble domes and towers reflected in landscaped pools, is every bit as impressive as its reputation suggests. Your first glimpse of its splendour is exhilarating and some of the best views are from Metah Bagh, or ‘moonlight garden’ across the Yamuna River. A trip here can be combined with a visit to Kachpura village on the outskirts of Agra for a glimpse of life in rural India. Proceeds from this excursion go directly to local community projects and help spread the wealth a little further beyond the Taj’s walls. Apart from the Taj, Agra has a number of other impressive sights including the Red Fort, one of India’s finest Mughal forts, and the intimate but magnificent tomb of Itmad-ud-Daulah, fondly known as the ‘Baby Taj’.

Offering Taj Mahal views from every room, this ideally located property is one of the most romantic places to stay in Rajasthan. Built in traditional Mughal style, its lavish public spaces feature crystal chandeliers, tiered archways and antique artworks. There are 102 rooms and suites decorated in a luxurious fashion but it is the views which remain longest in the memory. The opulence continues in the two restaurants, spa and manicured gardens.

The Gateway Hotel, Agra The Taj Gateway in the heart of Agra has 100 rooms and suites, many of which offer views of the Taj across the city. Comfortable, modern styling combines with a touch of local character in the choice of colourful soft furnishings in the rooms. The hotel also has an inviting swimming pool surrounded by spacious lawns and gardens, excellent international and Indian dining options as well as a relaxed rooftop bar with views of the Taj Mahal across the city.

Abandoned mosque, Fatehpur Sikri

Fatehpur Sikri After being the capital of the Mughal Empire for only 14 years or so, Fatehpur Sikri was abandoned shortly after its completion due to the scarcity of water; an important factor overlooked by Emperor Akbar. A popular site to visit en route between Agra and Jaipur, much of it still stands as an impressive testament to the Mughal Empire’s wealth in the 16th century.

Chambal Sanctuary Just over one hour from Agra, the Chambal Sanctuary protects a 400 kilometre stretch of the River Chambal and the ravines on either side. Home to endangered gharial and Gangetic dolphins as well as turtles, otters and nearly 300 bird species, the sanctuary is open from October to mid-April and best explored from the tranquil Chambal Safari Lodge. A lovingly restored property, it is nestled between the Chambal and Yamuna rivers and features 12 individually-styled rooms with plenty of character. Evening meals are shared around the campfire after days spent exploring the surrounding area. Safaris can be arranged by boat or 4x4, whilst the nearby Bateshwar temples and Fort Ater offer more cultural experiences.

The Gateway Hotel, Agra

www.audleytravel.com/northindia • 01993 838 345 • Rajasthan & the north

Amber Fort, Jaipur

Samode Haveli, Jaipur

Jaipur Awash with spectacular buildings and historic sites, Jaipur, the ‘Pink City’, is one of India’s most rewarding destinations. The opulence and intricacy of Jaipur’s historic buildings is staggering, from the Palace of the Winds, built so that royal women could observe festivities without being seen by the public, to the City Palace which contains an interesting museum of traditional costumes and weaponry, as well as vintage vehicles. The nearby royal observatory, Jantar Mantar, houses a fascinating collection of astrological instruments including one of the world’s largest sundials. Just outside the city, the 17th-century Amber Fort is perched on a hillside and accessed through an elaborate gateway which leads to the Maharaja’s apartments with their intricate mosaics and ornate murals. Jaipur has some wonderful traditional markets and bazaars best seen on a late afternoon walking tour. 12

Originally built for the Samode royal family, this beautifully preserved haveli still stands in the heart of the Pink City. Due to the age of the property, the 39 guest rooms and suites vary slightly in size and style, but all retain lots of character and original features such as stained glass windows, mirror work, frescoes and quirky arches. The swimming pool, courtyard restaurant and spa are all modern touches which add to the luxury.

Dera Mandawa, Jaipur Dera Mandawa is a quaint haveli with eight rooms which has been in the Singh family for generations. Many extensions and personal touches have been added over the years; the building reflects family as well as local history in its style and decor. It's a charming place to stay and as well as interaction with the family, guests can try their hand at kite flying, henna art, sari or saafa (Rajasthani turban) tying or cooking local cuisine.

Dera Mandawa, Jaipur

Basket weaving, Jaipur

Bazaars of Jaipur Jaipur is widely considered by many as the craft capital of India. To get a real insight into the bazaars and craftsmen who have worked here for centuries, take a walk with one of our local guides in the late afternoon when temperatures are cooler and the bustling atmosphere is at its best. See local artisans, including silversmiths and turban makers busy at work, using traditional techniques from the 18 th century, and sample some of Jaipur’s culinary delights from the mouth-watering choice of street food.

Local man, Jodhpur

Mehrangarh Fort and Jaswant Thada, Jodhpur

Clock tower and market stalls, Jodhpur

The blue buildings of Jodhpur

Ranthambhore National Park One of India’s most visited national parks, Ranthambhore is conveniently located between Agra and Jaipur and has a direct rail link to Delhi. The park is famous for its tiger sightings but its accessibility means that it is heavily visited and game drives must follow set routes allotted to them on entry which can detract from the experience. Having said that, the tiger population seems habituated to the many visitors and sightings are still frequent. Apart from the tigers, Ranthambhore is home to a host of other wildlife including deer, antelope, monkeys, hyenas and over 300 bird species. The park is a former royal hunting ground of the Maharajas of Jaipur and its dry deciduous forest and craggy ravines are dotted with ornate pavilions. At its heart is a wonderfully imposing 10 th-century fort which sits high on a rocky outcrop offering a dramatic backdrop to the forest and wildlife below.

Bengal tiger, Ranthambhore National Park

Raas, Jodhpur

Jodhpur Dominated by the vast Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur is a fortified city contained by 16thcentury walls. Although a bustling place, it is a little more intimate and tranquil than Jaipur and offers an authentic glimpse of Rajasthani life. Jodhpur is known as the ‘Blue City’ as many of its buildings are painted bright blue, the traditional colour of the highly respected Brahmin caste. The blue is also thought to deter insects and creates a stunning backdrop for photography. Stroll through the labyrinth of winding streets in the old town and climb up through a number of enormous stone gateways to the magnificent fort for glorious views. Inside, the intricately carved galleries display what is perhaps the best collection of artefacts in India. Below the fort is the colourful market with its atmospheric collection of stalls selling leather goods, spices and silks.

At the foot of the majestic Mehrangarh Fort, right in the heart of the walled city, Raas is a sleek and sophisticated boutique hotel built around an old haveli. The communal areas, spa and seven suites are in the atmospheric old house while the other 39 rooms are in contemporary buildings which surround an inviting pool. All rooms are modern and minimalist with designer style and luxurious furnishings, and all but four feature views of the fort.

Pal Haveli, Jodhpur A stone’s throw from Jodhpur’s clock tower, Pal Haveli is a long-established family home which has been tastefully converted into a hotel. It has 21 simple but comfortable rooms decorated with the bright textiles and colourful wall paintings for which Jodhpur is known. The rooftop restaurant is the perfect place to enjoy some simple, traditional food with the impressive Mehrangarh Fort lit up dramatically in the background.

Pal Haveli, Jodhpur

www.audleytravel.com/northindia • 01993 838 345 • Rajasthan & the north

Camel herders, Pushkar Camel Fair

Rural Rajasthan Although Rajasthan is known most for its incredible architectural monuments and colourful cities, the noise, hustle and throngs of people can be overwhelming. A stop between cities in more rural areas offers the opportunity to slow down and recharge as well as learning about the traditional way of life that has remained largely unchanged for centuries. Staying in small villages with local hosts, you can visit craftspeople and camel fairs, temples and pilgrimage sites and get a sense of why many Audley travellers find Rajasthanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s real charm lies here, in its small communities. Samode Set in the rugged landscape of the northern Aravalli Hills, Samode is an atmospheric retreat around an hour from Jaipur. A small, traditional village, it has a strong artisanal heritage and you can visit traditional printing and weaving workshops to see the craftsmen at work. Accommodation is available at the exquisite Samode Palace, an elaborate property that features numerous courtyards and terraces, intricate frescoes and mirror-work, 43 luxurious rooms and a grand infinity pool. Its sister property, Samode Bagh, is only slightly less flamboyant and offers 44 opulent tents within manicured Mughal gardens. Samode is a convenient stopover within the Golden Triangle, a quiet place to relax and good base from which to explore nearby Jaipur.

Chhatra Sagar, Nimaj

Chhatra Sagar, Nimaj A long-standing Audley favourite, Chhatra Sagar is set in extensive farmland halfway between Jaipur and Jodhpur. This tranquil spot offers a rewarding insight into rural life in India with tours of the campâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s organic vegetable farm and leisurely walking in the surrounding hills. The 11 comfortable tents, each with a permanent bathroom, are situated on a dam with beautiful sunrise views over the reservoir and its flocks of seasonal migratory birds. Chhatra Sagar is almost completely self-sustaining, and its home-grown, home-cooked food is not to be missed.

Rohet Garh, Rohet

Samode Palace, Samode

Rohet Garh, Rohet A heritage property less than an hour south of Jodhpur, Rohet Garh is a peaceful retreat in the small village of Rohet, originally a Bishnoi settlement. The hotel, parts of which date back to the 16th century, has 30 beautiful rooms and suites, and pretty gardens with relaxing seating areas as well as a small swimming pool. Peacocks roam the grounds and a short walk across the village takes you to the lake which attracts numerous migrating birds in the winter; a great spot for a cup of chai or a picnic. Outside Rohet, sister properties Mihir Garh and the Wilderness Camp offer desert experiences with luxurious accommodation, campfires and exquisite night skies.

PUNJAB

100 miles

161 kilometres

Bikaner

s DELHI l l i HARYANA

Shekhawati

Alwar

RAJASTHAN

Samode

a r

Jaipur

Pushkar Nimaj A

Jodhpur Rohet

PAKISTAN

Agra

Jaisalmer

Shahpura Narlai Kumbhalgarh Ranakpur Udaipur

Gwalior Bundi

Orchha

UTTAR PRADESH

Varanasi

Khajuraho

Chittorgarh Dungapur

INDIA MADHYA PRADESH

Bhopal

Mandu

Amanbagh, near Alwar

Amanbagh, near Alwar Roughly two hours north of Jaipur, Amanbagh is among the most opulent and exclusive accommodation options in India. A modern building constructed in a traditional style, it features the intricacy of Mughal design with the comfort of modern amenities. Service here is impeccable and the 24 stunning suites are only bettered by the 16 secluded pavilions which feature private pools and spacious gardens. There’s a luxurious spa, tranquil yoga and meditation classes, as well as plenty of opportunities to get a taste of the local area on village walks, visits to nearby forts and temples, or trips to the fascinating 16th-century ruins at Bhangarh.

Vegetable market, Pushkar

Women going to the market, Pushkar

Bundi Surrounded by historic city walls and the Aravalli Hills on three sides, the small town of Bundi is dominated by the towering Taragarh Fort. Some parts of the 17th-century palace are closed to the public, but there is still plenty to explore, including the impressive frescoes in the Chitrashala. The fort is an evocative place, little-visited and somewhat neglected but all the more atmospheric because of it. There are a number of havelis hidden in the old town which have been converted into simple but comfortable accommodation, some with pretty rooftop terraces; perfect for an evening meal overlooking the Lake Jait Sagar.

handmade kilms (traditional woven rugs), antique paintings and photographs on the walls. There is a lovely communal lounge, dining area and an inviting pool in the gardens. Surrounded by lakes, the hotel is ideal for guided bird walks, picnics and boat rides and has a firm commitment to sustainable initiatives.

Shahpura Bagh, Shahpura Originally the summer home of the rulers of Shahpura, this beautifully restored residence sits between Jaipur and Udaipur, and is the proud heritage of family descendants who delight in sharing conversations and tales with guests. The nine traditional suites are spacious and light with white lime plaster floors,

Pushkar Pushkar is a small town with a big reputation. Considered by many Hindus to be the centre of the world, it is one of the main pilgrimage sites in India. Aside from the abundant temples and shrines, there are also 52 ghats (ceremonial steps) around the central lake where bathers soak in the holy water. Pushkar is also home to the only Brahmin temple in India, one of only a few in the world. Although busy with visitors and pilgrims year-round, Pushkar is spectacularly chaotic for two weeks in November when the Camel Fair arrives. Thousands of farmers, camels, cattle, spectators and buyers descend from all over the country for this astounding spectacle.

Fort Rawla, Narlai

Fort Rawla, Narlai A great place to relax between Jodhpur and Udaipur, the 17th-century Fort Rawla is a boutique heritage property home to 32 characterful guestrooms, flower-filled gardens and a tempting pool. Above the hotel is the affectionately-known ‘elephant rock’ reached up a series of 750 steps, and offering wonderful views of the village and surrounding countryside. The village is small but locals are welcoming and happy for you to spend time in one of the local temples or visit the nearby step well. A bit further afield are the impressive Kumbhalgarh Fort and the Jain temples at Ranakpur. Bathers at Pushkar Lake

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Jain temple, Ranakpur

Kumbhalgarh Fort

Ranakpur The remarkable Jain temple at Ranakpur is one of the largest and most ornate in India, meticulously decorated with intricate carvings and sporting 80 domes and 1,444 pillars. The complex is an incredibly peaceful place and a wonderful setting in which to reflect and learn about the intriguing Jain religion. Jains’ respect for all living things and their concern for the welfare of the universe makes them extremely calm and conscientious and you’ll often see devout Jains wearing masks so they don’t accidently inhale or harm any insects. The temple floors are swept almost continuously to avoid any living thing being stepped on and it is asked that visitors have the same respect and dress in long sleeves and trousers too.

Kumbhalgarh

Dungarpur

Perched high in the Aravalli Hills, the impressive 15th-century Kumbhalgarh Fort contains over 300 temples and 700 cannon bunkers and is enclosed by what is thought to be the second longest wall in the world. It is 36 kilometres long and 15 feet thick in places and a climb to the top offers panoramic views of the surrounding hills. Kumbhalgarh was originally built under the instruction of Rana Kumbha and was an attractive hiding place for centuries, its surrounding hills acting as a natural defence. It is now a beautifully scenic spot to learn more about Rajasthan’s history.

South of Udaipur, Dungarpur sits away from the most popular tourist routes and destinations, but still has a very strong historic background. Its most obvious attraction is Juna Mahal, a former Rajput palace originally built in the 13th century and greatly expanded and enhanced over the following centuries. Adorned with gems and intricate glasswork, its interiors were once truly magnificent, but left unoccupied it has lost some charm and has unfortunately been vandalised in places. By invitation (or following a request we can arrange on your behalf), visitors can explore inside and see its richly decorated walls painted with processional scenes. A visit to Dungarpur also offers the opportunity to spend some time in local temples or wander through the small surrounding villages, home to the Bheel people.

Chittorgarh Dominating the surrounding landscape, Chittorgarh fort complex is one of India’s largest and most spectacular, sitting on top of a massive rocky outcrop surrounded by sheer cliffs. A series of ornate palaces, temples, towers and gates blanket the hilltop which provides wonderful views over the city far below. The fort’s history is a long and tragic one, besieged and defeated on three occasions, Chittorgarh’s women committed Jauhur, a planned death in the face of defeat by the enemy, each time. Accommodation options in Chittor are limited making it a good place for a day trip or to visit en route to your next destination.

Local man, Chittorgarh

Market, Udaipur

Kirti Stambh, Chittorgarh Fort

Local woman, Chittorgarh Fort

City Palace, Udaipur

The Leela Palace, Udaipur

Udaipur This intimate lakeside city has a gloriously romantic atmosphere, its tangle of narrow streets lined with temples, palaces, monuments and havelis. Smaller than both Jodhpur and Jaipur, it has a more tranquil atmosphere and is dominated by the magnificent City Palace with its extravagant detailing. Over 400 years, successive Maharajas tinkered with the original structure adding countless courtyards, balconies and halls, each more elaborate than the last. The palace overlooks serene Lake Pichola where the Lake Palace appears to float on the water against a backdrop of the southern Aravalli Hills. Away from the waterfront you’ll find ancient bazaars full of colourful stalls and shops selling a tempting mixture of crafts, textiles and miniature paintings. Udaipur makes a particularly good stop at the end of a trip when you can spare the time to slow down and soak up the atmosphere.

Located on the banks of Lake Pichola, The Leela Palace offers an indulgent retreat from Udaipur’s busy streets. Each of the 80 elegant rooms and suites command views over the lake, whilst an extensive network of hidden courtyards, water ponds and pools offer plenty of space to unwind. Yoga sessions at either sunrise or sunset offer further relaxation. Dining options include the lakeside restaurant and terrace cocktail bar which have the stunning backdrop of the city, the Lake Palace and the Aravalli Hills.

Jagat Niwas Palace, Udaipur Traditional Rajasthani style and a convenient location are on offer at Jagat Niwas Palace, a 17th-century haveli hidden down Udaipur’s winding streets. The house is set on the banks of Lake Pichola and is an excellent value option for exploring the old town on foot. Beautifully restored Jagat Niwas offers 29 individually-styled rooms, simply but traditionally furnished with plenty of local charm and character. The rooftop restaurant is a superb sunset spot, boasting stunning views of Udaipur.

Fateh Garh, near Udaipur

Fateh Garh, near Udaipur Nestled up in the hills above Udaipur, Fateh Garh is set in a truly peaceful location. Each of the 48 bright, spacious rooms has stunning views of the lush surrounding hills and farmland providing the perfect place to relax. A modern hotel built on the foundations of an old palace, it has all the conveniences of a contemporary hotel with the romantic feel of a heritage property. The highlight is a well-placed pool area from which you can enjoy the panoramic views of Udaipur’s lakes.

View from Jagat Niwas Palace, Udaipur

www.audleytravel.com/northindia • 01993 838 345 • Rajasthan & the north

Local village

School headmaster

Araveli Cottages and Tented Camp Araveli Cottages and Tented Camp is a very comfortable and highly rewarding place to stay in the picturesque hills of Rajasthan. The project is deeply rooted in the community and welcomes its guests with traditional warmth and offers the opportunity to interact with local villagers in a meaningful way.

Guests can also join walks through the beautiful foothills to learn about the flora and fauna with a guide or take a Mewari art class with a local artist to try your hand at this traditional style of miniature painting. All activities are aimed to illustrate how your efforts and the work of Free The Children make a meaningful difference to the lives of local people.

The stylish tents and cottages are set in lush grounds around a tranquil lake. Solidly constructed and tastefully decorated, the spacious tents feature locally-made furniture and en suite bathrooms with hot running water and round-the-clock electricity. Carrying water

Dining pavilion

The cottages are similarly styled with exposed stone walls, tiled floors and verandas offering spectacular views of the mountains. Each cottage has two large bedrooms with en suite bathrooms and a generous central area featuring local artworks. Meals are served in a picturesque dining pavilion, set on higher ground, where guests can enjoy a wonderful introduction to the exotic flavours and dishes of Rajasthan. One of your evening meals is likely to be followed by a colourful local dance performance.

Tented accommodation

Araveliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s real charm however, lies in the opportunity to soak up local culture and learn about life in rural India. The project is operated by Me to We, the social business arm of the development charity Free the Children of whom Audley are big supporters. Their development model aims to break the cycle of acute poverty and make communities self-sufficient by improving education, sanitation and crop diversity and by providing access to basic healthcare. At Araveli, everyone has the chance to visit local villages and take part in projects supported by Free the Children. Days can begin with a sunrise yoga session and at the start of your stay youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be encouraged to learn a little Hindi before meeting the local community for the first time. You can also take part in a puja, a traditional Hindu blessing, to ensure the success and prosperity of the work being undertaken. The exact details of activities during your visit will depend on your preferences as well as what projects are underway at the time. There are often construction projects to get involved with or you can help local women with their morning activities such as making chapatti, drawing water from the well or feeding the animals.

Local craftsman

Araveli is an attractive destination in itself, but coupled with the opportunity to explore rural Rajasthan, learn about the joys and challenges of life in rural India and offer something back in return, you come away feeling privileged to stay here.

School children

Jaisalmer Fort

Women in traditional dress, Jaisalmer

Local woman, Jaisalmer

Interior of Junagarh Fort, Bikaner

Transporting rugs, Jaisalmer

Jaisalmer

Shekhawati region

A unique destination, the somewhat isolated city of Jaisalmer is a spectacular citadel rising up from the dusty Thar Desert. At the heart of the city is an ancient fort which is still a thriving commercial centre with narrow lanes lined by shops, temples and bazaars. The fortress dominates the skyline wherever you go and a guided walking tour is the best way to explore and navigate the winding streets lined with fragrant spices, colourful fabrics and local hawkers. Away from the city, a visit to the sand dunes at dusk is a romantic and peaceful contrast to the bustling city streets. There are multiple hotel options we recommend, all of which are outside the fort as the environmental impact of overcrowding threatens the fort’s foundations.

A fascinating place to spend a few days well away from the crowds, the Shekhawati region in the arid, rugged landscape of the northeastern Aravalli Hills is the traditional home of Marwari traders. This was once a thriving region located on an important trade route between Delhi and the Gujarat coast but it fell into decline once the railways diverted trade from the area. There are several interesting forts and temples here as well as numerous havelis. Many of these family-owned mansions can be visited to see their private inner courtyards decorated with murals of daily life and historic events from steam trains to images of colonial rulers.

The Serai, Jaisalmer The Serai is a luxurious desert camp with 21 modern and thoughtfully designed tents, some of which have private plunge pools. The camp is extremely comfortable but still in tune with its desert surroundings and was built using Rajasthani stone and traditional materials crafted into shape by local people. Under an hour outside the city, it’s a peaceful retreat but still within easy reach of the sights. The Serai is a good option for exploring Jaisalmer city or the nearby dunes by day and spending evenings dining by candlelight under a canopy of stars.

The Serai, Jaisalmer

Bikaner A less-visited and highly authentic desert town, Bikaner is an ideal place to stop en route to the western desert towns of Rajasthan. Although a busy place with a somewhat workaday manner, it has an interesting history and is home to some fascinating temples such as the 17th-century Karni Mata, the ‘Rat Temple’. Not for the faint-hearted, this unusual place of worship ensures all rats and mice are well fed and looked after as they are believed to be reincarnated saints. The town is dominated by the imposing and beautifully decorated Junagarh Fort which is best explored with a local guide. It is also worth spending some time wandering the dusty streets and just soaking up the busy atmosphere amongst camel carts and market stalls.

Mural, Shekhawati region

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Mausoleum, Gujarat

Gujarat The rarely visited state of Gujarat on India’s northwestern coastline is known for its rich textile production, historic settlements and the only Asiatic lion population in the world. It’s a diverse and captivating place to visit if you want to escape the crowds and is often compared to its neighbour Rajasthan, although it is less developed and has limited accommodation options. Aside from interesting history, remnants of tribal communities and the textile industry, wildlife is a major draw in this corner of India. Rare wild ass and Asiatic lions are found here, as well as hundreds of birds, including flamingos and many migratory species. A trip combining cities, villages, the Little Rann of Kutch and Sasan Gir National Park offers a varied flavour of this intriguing state.

Mir women, Gujarat

The House of MG, Ahmedabad

Traditional embroidered fabrics, Gujarat

Ideally located to explore Ahmedabad, the charming House of MG was built in 1924 and was once home to a local businessman and philanthropist, Mangaldas Girdhardas. It’s since been lovingly restored by his grandson and has retained all its best features, including Italian mosaic flooring, cosy courtyards and stained glass windows. It is now home to 17 rooms and suites as well as one apartment. The courtyard cafe serves local snacks, but for a traditional thali (set meal) under the night sky, the rooftop restaurant is the place to be.

Ahmedabad

Bhuj

The vibrant city of Ahmedabad acts as the gateway to Gujarat and can seem a little overwhelming on first arrival, but a good guide will help you dig a little deeper to find some of the city’s gems. The old city is home to carved wooden temples, havelis, small neighbourhoods and narrow streets leading to specialist bazaars, while the night market is an ideal place to purchase high quality cottons, silks and embroidered clothes or simply just absorb the atmosphere. You’ll find a comprehensive collection of fabrics and artefacts at the Calico Museum of Textiles while on the riverbank in the suburbs is the Ghandi ashram, from where the unassuming leader began his iconic march for independence.

Bhuj is a lively and engaging place to visit in western Kutch, despite being devastated by an earthquake in 2001. Few tourists make it here but this friendly city has many colourful markets with excellent textile shopping, as well as original city gates, palace ruins and an interesting museum, Durbar Hall. Outside the city, a visit to the tribal Banni villages offers a fascinating insight into local life and century-old traditions.

Fort, near Diu Island

Market, Diu Island

Orchard Palace, Gondal

Plum-headed parakeet, Sasan Gir National Park

Gondal

Diu Island

A small town in the heart of Gujarat, Gondal is steeped in history and famous for its palaces and vintage car collections. The Naulakha Palace is the oldest surviving palace in Gondal, dating back to the 17th century. Renowned for its stone carvings, intricate balconies, antique collections and ornate interiors, it’s certainly worth having a local guide show you around. The current royal residency, Huzoor Palace, has one wing open to the public and the Riverside Palace gardens are also beautifully preserved and worth a visit. For car fanatics, the Royal Garages have an impressive collection of classic and vintage vehicles.

Lying off Gujarat’s south coast, just 40 square kilometres in size, Diu Island is infused with Portuguese history and is a complete contrast to the rest of the state. Diu town is home to a 16th-century Portuguese fort as well as churches, lively markets, colourful houses and hotels. It has a Mediterranean feel and one Portuguese custom still very much respected is that of the afternoon siesta. The island follows Delhi’s laws however and is the only place in Gujarat you can have an alcoholic drink. Vibrant yet relaxed, Diu is a great place to end your trip and is easily accessible with flights from Mumbai.

Orchard Palace, Gondal Part of the estate of the Gondal royal family, the Orchard Palace was built in the late 19 th century to host personal guests of the Maharajas. It has since been converted into a seven room heritage hotel with a wonderful old-world charm. High ceilings, Art Deco furniture, antiques and handicrafts adorn the rooms which also have en suite bathrooms and modern amenities. One of the nicest properties in Gujarat, the aromatic home-cooked food and pretty terraces add to the bygone era of this hotel.

Sasan Gir National Park One of the most important protected areas in Asia, Sasan Gir is the last remaining home of the pure Asiatic lion. The park was established in 1965 and covers almost 1,500 square kilometres of dense teak forests which also provide a habitat for leopards, panthers, hyenas, wild boar, marsh crocodiles and rich, varied birdlife. It is quite an underdeveloped area with poor infrastructure so receives fewer visitors than other parks allowing those who do make it here to enjoy it in peace.

Sasan Gir National Park

Asiatic lions The endangered Asiatic lion is only found in Gujarat, and is only one of five big cat species in India. Others include the Bengal tiger, Indian leopard, snow leopard and clouded leopard. Although slightly smaller than African lions, these majestic creatures are still large and fierce. As surrounding towns and populations increase, the lions are living in a shrinking habitat and in the last few years they have been spotted crossing park boundaries into surrounding villages and forests. Our local guides and naturalists offer a fascinating insight into both national and local perceptions and opinions regarding these intriguing mammals.

www.audleytravel.com/northindia • 01993 838 345 • Rajasthan & the north

Ghats, Varanasi

Nadesar Palace, Varanasi

Varanasi Intensely spiritual, colourful and incredibly chaotic, Varanasi is an ancient holy city at the centre of the Hindu universe. The area has been inhabited since the 6th century BC and such is its importance that simply dying here is enough to offer instant enlightenment. Stretching along the Ganges, its riverbank is lined with ghats where the faithful come to perform their daily ablutions, wash away their sins, cremate their dead and make offerings to the sacred goddess Ganga. Away from the water the narrow winding streets are teeming with life. You’ll find temples on almost every corner and a vast array of markets, shops, restaurants and hotels, as well as throngs of people. The best way to appreciate the city is by boat, as the scent of sandalwood and incense fills the air. Varanasi is a city like no other, its heaving mass of inhabitants and visitors capturing the very essence of India.

Originally built by the East India Company, Nadesar Palace is renowned for its friendly Indian hospitality and luxurious charm. This beautiful hotel is considered one of the best in the city and has played host to many royal guests over the years. The ten exquisitely furnished rooms and suites feature antique furniture, and original artworks from the Maharaja’s collection, while at the same time offering all modern facilities.

Suryauday Haveli, Varanasi Situated on the Shivala ghats, Suryauday occupies a riverfront location. With 14 rooms, including nine with river views, it’s a comfortable retreat. Meal times are a highlight; delicious local dishes are served in the courtyard or on the rooftop terrace which is one of the best locations to witness the sun set over the atmospheric Aarti ceremony. Although no alcohol is served and food is vegetarian, it is an unbeatable location if you want to be in the heart of this holy city.

Khajuraho Famed for its erotic storytelling and Kama Sutra sculptures, the stone temples at Khajuraho are both intricate and impressive. Built between the 10 th and 12th centuries, the 21 temples are considered the Chandella Dynasty’s ultimate architectural accomplishment. Scenes of battles, banquets and many other topics cover every pillar and the best way to understand them is with the assistance of a local guide.

Lalit Temple View, Khajuraho One of the best hotel’s in Khajuraho, the Lalit offers 47 spacious and stylish rooms as well as modern facilities, including a spa and swimming pool set in manicured gardens. The hotel is just 500 metres from the western group of temples, making it a convenient as well as a comfortable option. The popular multi-cuisine restaurant has a lovely terrace with the temples of Khajuraho in the backdrop.

Suryauday Haveli, Varanasi

Lalit Temple View, Khajuraho

Mural in the Raj Mahal, Orchha

Stone temples, Khajuraho

Jehangir Mahal, Orchha

Sadhu, Varanasi

Orchha Rising above the boulder-strewn landscape on the banks of the Betwa River, Orchha is a long abandoned 16th-century fort-palace and a highly atmospheric place to visit. The impressive buildings sit among dhak forest with the cenotaphs, temples and ramparts of the Jehangir Mahal dominating the landscape. Nearby you’ll find the elegant Lakshmi Narayan Temple and wonderful murals in the Raj Mahal, all easily explored on foot from sleepy Orchha village. In the evening you can stroll along the river to watch the sun set and visit the Ram Raja Temple, a converted palace of pink tiles and gold domes where devotees gather every evening to sing a rousing chorus. Orchha is a very laid-back place with a limited choice of accommodation, four hours’ drive from Khajuraho.

Detail on the Kandariya Mahadev Temple, Khajuraho

Usha Kiran Palace, Gwalior Over 120 years old, this former Maharaja’s residence is a charming hotel steeped in local history and full of character. The 38 rooms, suites and villas offer a very comfortable stay and are filled with interesting furniture, rich fabrics and traditional artwork. Surrounded by beautiful gardens and water features, the elaborate house also has a swimming pool and a spa to relax in after a day’s sightseeing.

Usha Kiran Palace, Gwalior

Gwalior An archaeological and historical treasure, Gwalior dates back to the 6th century BC. First occupied by Hun invaders, it later came under the control of the Tomars, the Lodhis of Delhi, the Mughals and Marathas. A 15th-century fort still dominates the city with huge Jain sculptures cut into the sandstone cliffs on the approach and deserted palaces and subterranean rooms to explore inside. Elsewhere in the city you’ll find the 400-room Jai Vilas Palace, the extravagant home of the Royal Scindia family. Despite its obvious attractions, Gwalior attracts fewer visitors than north India’s other cities and is well worth a visit as it is just three hours south of Agra. Man Mandir Palace, Gwalior

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Umaid Bhawan Palace, Jodhpur

Forts & Palaces The forts and palaces of Rajasthan have always played a crucial role in this regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history and a selection of them have now been meticulously restored and have reopened their doors to welcome guests with a wealth of traditional charm. The following are a few of our favourites.

Umaid Bhawan Palace, Jodhpur

Ramathra Fort, Ramathra Run by Rajput descendants, you are guaranteed a friendly welcome at this beautiful property in rural Rajasthan, nestled in the hills north of Ranthambhore National Park. Beautifully renovated with six luxury tents and six spacious suites, there are some stunning spots to relax, including a Jacuzzi built into the rampart wall which offers breathtaking views. Unwind on the terraces, explore the local villages, enjoy a boat ride on Lake Kalisil or pick a quiet spot to observe the wonderful birdlife of the region. This 350-year-old fort is a stunning place to stay.

Ramathra Fort, Ramathra

A magnificent building both inside and out, the vast Umaid Bhawan Palace is still the home of the Maharaja, although one wing of this building now operates as an opulent hotel with 64 rooms and suites. A special place to stay, the building stands on the outskirts of Jodhpur overlooking the Blue City, and is a well-known local landmark. The palatial public spaces are matched by a series of luxurious rooms and suites with Art Deco inspired design and the latest modern amenities. There are a choice of dining options as well as a spa, two pools and expansive gardens and grounds.

Fort Barli, Barli Located within a small village, Fort Barli is a wonderful place to relax and absorb local life in Rajasthan. Perfect for breaking up long journeys in this vast state, the hotel has been renovated but still maintains lots of original character. Owned by the same family for 16 generations, your hosts will be on hand to share lots of history and stories with you, as well as assist with ideas and activities if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re planning to stay for a few nights. There are eight rooms, as well as a swimming pool and small restaurant. Fort Barli, Barli

Taj Lake Palace, Udaipur

Views from Ramathra Fort

Chanoud Garh, Chanoud

Chanoud Garh, Chanoud Set in the heart of a small village, Chanoud Garh is a meticulously renovated fort with seven beautiful suites. The lovingly dressed rooms surround a quiet courtyard and retain much of their original character. Each is individual in style with either exposed stone arches or ornate carvings and traditional fabrics in rich colours. Although there is no pool, shaded terraces offer great places to relax and enjoy the peace and quiet. After exploring the surrounding village and countryside, enjoy a home-cooked Rajasthani meal with your wonderful hosts, the Singhs, who help make this special place what it is.

Taj Lake Palace, Udaipur The Lake Palace is luxurious and extravagant with unrivalled views across Lake Pichola to Udaipur’s City Palace. Guests arrive by boat and are greeted by unbridled opulence. Most of the 60 rooms and 17 suites offer lake views, the food is superb and the service impeccable. Along with the luxurious interiors, the hotel has pretty courtyards, a delightful spa and swimming pool, an in-house astrologer and offers guided walks around the palace.

Devi Garh, Delwara

Devi Garh, Delwara Just 45 minutes from Udaipur, this 18 th-century palace is one of the most desirable places to stay in Rajasthan. The story of its painstaking renovation is often shared with guests, a fascinating tale of rebuilding stonework, restoring staircases and uncovering jewels as well as various other hidden delights. Now, sleek and contemporary with touches of original charm, the property is a tranquil escape with 39 suites. When not exploring Udaipur, enjoy the peace and quiet on one of the many terraces, be wined and dined under the stars, cool off in the pool or join a yoga class. Chanoud Garh, Chanoud

Taj Lake Palace, Udaipur

www.audleytravel.com/northindia • 01993 838 345 • Rajasthan & the north

Tailoring your trip Delhi

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a flavour of what is possible, and are routes that work particularly well. We can use these as a basis to plan your trip or can design a completely different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests. Please call one of our North India specialists to start planning your itinerary.

Delhi

Jaipur

Agra Jaipur

Ranthambhore National Park

T 01993 838 345

Udaipur

Most trips to North India start in Delhi. You can either plan a loop around the region returning to Delhi for your flight home or head south and fly out of Mumbai. This is a large region with long distances between sights and we will provide you with an air-conditioned car and driver, as most road journeys will be a minimum of a few hours. Rail travel is another viable option offering a fascinating insight into daily life in India but it is a totally different experience and may not suit everyone.

When to go 3

33 33

Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

33 33

33 The best time to travel. 3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.

Golden Triangle & Tigers

Classic Rajasthan

This short itinerary includes the highlights of North India’s cities and the opportunity to go on the trail of the Bengal tiger at Ranthambhore National Park. Classic attractions such as the Taj Mahal, Jaipur’s Palace of the Winds and Old Delhi’s bazaars can be combined with more unusual excursions to discover a different side of this well travelled route.

This classic itinerary highlights the very best of Rajasthan and the north, including the must-see monuments and bustling cities, as well as time in rural Rajasthan. Not only does this provide an insight into a traditional way of life, but also helps recharge the batteries and varies the pace of your trip.

Day 1

Fly overnight to Delhi.

Day 2

Arrive in Delhi, afternoon free to relax or explore.

Day 3

Guided tour of New Delhi as well as the bustling old side of the city.

Day 4

Visit Agra’s Red Fort, Itmad-udDaulah and Metah Bagh at sunset to see the Taj Mahal.

Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year.

5 Travel is not recommended.

North India is best between October and March with warm daytime temperatures (upwards of 25C / 77F) and cooler evenings. October is a particularly green time to visit following the monsoon rains. Temperatures then start to drop and by December and January evenings and mornings are cold (around 5C / 41F), with the fog occasionally disrupting transport and sightseeing. By March temperatures begin to rise dramatically and April and May are very hot (upwards of 40C / 104F). During the summer monsoon, travel is still possible but not ideal. North India has many festivals that can attract large crowds and put strain on rail and road networks. Republic Day, Holi, the Pushkar Camel Fair and Diwali are the main examples. Although amazing to witness, those wishing to attend do need to be prepared for large crowds – your specialist can recommend somewhere quieter to stay or help adapt your travel dates if need be.

Day 5

Sunrise visit to the Taj Mahal before travelling to Ranthambhore National Park.

Day 6

Morning and afternoon game drives in search of tigers and other wildlife.

Day 7

Enjoy a morning game drive before continuing to Jaipur.

Day 8

Guided tour of Amber Fort Palace and the ‘Pink City’ of Jaipur.

Day 9

Morning at leisure, return to Delhi by road.

Day 10

Transfer to the airport to connect with your international flight.

Day 1

Fly overnight to Delhi.

Day 2

Arrive in Delhi, afternoon at leisure.

Day 3

Explore the contrasts of Old and New Delhi.

Day 4

Visit Agra’s key sights and spend sunset at Metah Bagh opposite the Taj Mahal.

Day 5

Sunrise visit to the Taj Mahal, drive to Jaipur via Fatehpur Sikri.

Day 6

Explore the ‘Pink City’ of Jaipur and Amber Fort.

Day 7

Travel to Barli in rural Rajasthan.

Day 8

Explore the area, the farmland, meet the locals and socialise with your hosts.

Day 9

Continue onwards by road to Jodhpur.

Day 10

Guided tour of the Meherangarh Fort and vibrant clock tower market.

Day 11

Travel south to Chanoud, another rural village.

Day 12

Explore local village life and interact with your hosts for the best experience.

Day 13

Drive to Udaipur via Ranakpur and Kumbhalgarh Fort.

Day 14

Guided tour of Udaipur including the vast City Palace.

Day 15

Head to the airport to connect with your onwards international flight.

Stay longer Spend a couple of nights in rural Rajasthan to escape the hustle and bustle of the cities or travel by train into the foothills and visit Shimla.

Time difference: GMT+5.5 hours

Prices

Stay longer Fly south to Goa to relax and unwind on a sandy beach or explore its colonial heritage at a leisurely pace.

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices for your trip to Rajasthan and North India on our website, alternatively please call our specialists to discuss your plans. Sheep herders, rural Rajasthan

Barli

Chanoud

Getting around

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun

Agra

Jodhpur

Suggested itineraries Delhi Agra Barli

Bikaner

Shekhawati Region

Delhi

Jaipur

Udaipur

Thar Desert Jaisalmer

Jaipur

Agra

Jodhpur

Mumbai (Bombay)

Gwalior

Chanoud

Varanasi

Orchha

Bundi

Khajuraho

Udaipur

Cochin Backwaters / Marari

Munnar Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary

Ultimate Rajasthan

North India uncovered

North and South India

This comprehensive itinerary allows in-depth exploration of the best that Rajasthan has to offer.

This itinerary covers some of north India’s cultural highlights but follows a path less well travelled away from central Rajasthan, offering authentic experiences and an insight into India’s diverse religions.

This itinerary is perfect for those that feel they will only visit India once, covering the highlights of two of India’s most diverse and popular states: Rajasthan and Kerala.

Day 1

Fly overnight to Delhi.

Day 2

Relax after arriving in Delhi.

Day 3

Explore Old and New Delhi with your local guide.

Day 4

Head into the Shekhawati region, exploring deserted havelis.

Day 5

Drive onwards to Bikaner.

Day 6

Guided tour of Junagarh Fort and optional visit to the Karni Mata ‘Rat Temple’.

Day 1 Day 1

Fly overnight to Delhi.

Day 2

Leisurely day in Delhi following arrival.

Day 3

Guided tour to discover the contrasts of Old and New Delhi.

Day 4

Visit Agra’s key sights and watch the sun set across the Taj Mahal.

Day 5

Sunrise visit to the Taj Mahal before travelling onwards to Gwalior.

Day 7

Continue into the Thar Desert.

Day 8

Morning camel safari before continuing to Jaisalmer.

Day 6

Guided tour of Gwalior before taking the train to Orchha.

Day 9

Take a guided tour of Jaisalmer Fort exploring the narrow lanes on foot.

Day 7

Day 10

Travel through the desert to Jodhpur.

Explore the village and temples of Orchha, continue by road to Khajuraho.

Day 8

Explore Mehrangarh Fort and the vibrant clock tower markets.

Full day to explore the impressive, UNESCO-protected temples.

Day 9

Fly to Varanasi. Enjoy sunset at the busy river ghats.

Day 10

Drive to Udaipur via Ranakpur and Kumbhalgarh Fort.

Early morning boat ride on the Ganges River, afternoon tour of Sarnath.

Day 11

Explore Udaipur’s City Palace and Old City streets.

Leisure time before a short domestic flight to Delhi.

Day 12

Transfer to the airport for your international flight.

Day 11

Days 12-13 Continue to Chanoud in rural Rajasthan. Enjoy the slower paces of village life. Day 14 Day 15 Day 16

Onwards to Bundi via Chittorgarh.

Day 17

Explore the Taragarh Fort and frescos in the palace before heading to Jaipur.

Day 18 Day 19

Guided tour of Amber Fort Palace and the ‘Pink City’ of Jaipur. Continue, via Fatehpur Sikri, to Agra and spend sunset at Metah Bagh.

Day 20

Sunrise visit to the Taj Mahal, visit the Red Fort before returning to Delhi.

Day 21

Return to the airport to connect with your international flight.

Days 2-3 Relax or explore the sights of both Old and New Delhi. Day 4

Visit Agra’s key sights including the Taj Mahal from across the river.

Day 5

See the Taj Mahal at sunrise before travelling to Jaipur via Fatehpur Sikri.

Day 6

Guided tour of the impressive Amber Fort and ‘Pink City’ sights.

Day 7

Head off the beaten track to Barli.

Day 8

Enjoy the slower pace of village life.

Day 9

Continue by road to Udaipur via Chittorgarh.

Day 10

Explore Udaipur with a local guide.

Day 11

Fly south to Cochin via Mumbai.

Day 12

Guided tour of colonial Cochin including St Francis church and the Dutch Palace.

Day 13

Drive to Munnar and enjoy a walk through the tea plantations.

Day 14

Relaxing morning at leisure before continuing to Periyar.

Day 15

Early morning jungle walk before exploring local spice plantations.

Day 16

Transfer to the backwaters and board your houseboat for the night.

Day 17

Disembark your traditional barge and relax at your backwater accommodation.

Day 18

Short drive to Marari, afternoon at leisure on the beach.

Day 19

Day at leisure.

Day 20

Return to Cochin to connect with your international flight.

Stay longer Spend a couple of nights enjoying India’s wildlife at one of the many national parks, the nearest being Ranthambhore, Panna or the Chambal Sanctuary.

Fly overnight to Delhi.

www.audleytravel.com/northindia • 01993 838 345 • Rajasthan & the north

Calcutta & the east T

he unique culture and landscapes of the northeast give this fascinating region a distinct character which in many ways is more like its neighbours Nepal, Bhutan and Myanmar, than the rest of India. The region’s largest city, Calcutta, is a cultural, economic and political centre indelibly marked by its time as the capital of the British Raj. Glorious colonial architecture lines its wide boulevards and stately mansions age gracefully on leafy streets. The city also acts as a gateway to the Himalaya with easy access to the former colonial hill station of Darjeeling with its old-world charm, colourful Buddhist monasteries, Hindu temples and Christian churches. In laid-back Assam, where lush tea estates and paddy fields unfold across the landscape, the unhurried pace of life and tranquil waterways induce a sense of calm and tranquillity lacking in many other parts of India. Cruise along the rivers, explore ancient Ahom palaces and Hindu temples, or sip tea on the lawns of a colonial mansion. Further south, little-visited Orissa rewards visitors with medieval temples, national parks, tribal villages with vibrant traditional cultures, and a mellow charm that’s hard to resist.

Audley in Calcutta & the east

ARUNACHAL PRADESH

CHINA

Majuli Island

BHUTAN

3 Kaziranga National Park

Br a

hm a

Manas National Park

2 JHARKHAND

5 NAGALAND

Guwahati

MEGHALAYA

ASSAM

MYANMAR

Shillong MANIPUR

TRIPURA

INDIA

tr a pu

Dibrugarh Sibsagar Jorhat

BANGLADESH Hu g

A little-explored region that is refreshingly undeveloped, the challenges of travel in the northeast are best solved with the aid of a driver and guide. Standards of English can be low so a local guide who stays with you throughout your trip can be invaluable in ensuring that it runs smoothly. Our specialists have first-hand knowledge of the region and can help plan an itinerary to suit your interests and match your preferred pace of travel, and once on the ground, our local guides are passionate and knowledgeable. Alternatively, river travel is a popular way to navigate through both West Bengal and Assam, using the Hugli and Brahmaputra rivers to reach areas largely inaccessible by road.

MIZORAN

6 WEST BENGAL

Calcutta

100 miles

161 kilometres

Accommodation ORISSA

Calcutta offers a range of accommodation including luxurious five star hotels and smaller, boutique guesthouses. Many colonial-era properties have been converted into atmospheric hotels while elsewhere stilted tea bungalows and lodges offer local character and charm. While all of these properties are clean and comfortable, they may not have a full range of amenities or facilities. They will however, enhance your experience of the area and our up-to-date local knowledge will ensure you have the best accommodation available.

1 Calcutta Once capital of the British Raj, Calcutta’s crumbling grandeur defines this atmospheric old city. See page 30

4 Dibrugarh Explore the vast tea estates and learn about the traditional skills needed to turn raw leaves into the perfect cup of tea. See page 31

2 Brahmaputra River A cruise along the Brahmaputra is a wonderfully leisurely way to see rural India’s ancient villages and national parks. See page 32

6 Hugli River A meandering river at the heart of colonial India, take a boat trip to explore the Dutch and French settlements of Serampore and Chandernagore. See page 32

3 Kaziranga National Park Beautiful and isolated, Kaziranga is famous for its one-horned rhino. See page 31 Tea harvesting, Assam

5 Jorhat A cultural gateway close to ornate Ahom temples and the beautiful, laid-back Majuli Island with its fascinating monasteries. See page 31

Taking flowers to market, Calcutta

www.audleytravel.com/northeastindia • 01993 838 345 • Calcutta & the east

Fishing boat crossing the River Hugli, Calcutta

Oberoi Grand, Calcutta

Calcutta

The Grand Dame of Calcutta hotels, this landmark property first opened its doors over 125 years ago and its sweeping staircases, crystal chandeliers and elaborate stuccowork are just as impressive today. Conveniently located within walking distance of many city sites, including the Indian Museum and the Park Street Cemetery, the hotel’s 209 rooms and spacious suites are extremely comfortable and decorated in an elegant, classical style. There’s also a luxurious spa, swimming pool and variety of excellent restaurants.

Catch a glimpse of Calcutta’s colourful daily life with an early morning visit to the city’s vibrant flower market on the banks of the River Hugli. This is one of Asia’s largest flower markets with local and regional traders coming to buy and sell mountains of brightly coloured blooms and garlands of vibrant orange and yellow marigolds. It’s a very traditional market with stall holders almost lost amongst a sea of intense colours and smells. It is a fascinating place to explore and a guided walk with a passionate and professional guide will reveal the hidden secrets of the market along with its history and significance to the local people and economy.

The flamboyant former capital of the British Raj, Calcutta is northeast India’s most atmospheric city where grand imperial buildings line wide boulevards and India’s gentry still frequent the city racecourse and private clubs. Along with the colonial grandeur, the presence of synagogues, churches and bazaars reveals the city’s global importance in its heyday. Stroll past the Victorian buildings on Dalhousie Square to the famous cricket ground in Eden Gardens, the Victoria Memorial and the aging mansions of Chowringhee for a taste of the city’s illustrious past. In contrast, the bustling streets with shanti homes tucked in the smallest spaces and millions of commuters remind you that this is one of India’s largest cities. Soak up the atmosphere in the vibrant flower markets or head to the river early to see the city come to life. Flower market, Calcutta

Calcutta flower market

Sibsagar Temple, near Jorhat

Tea harvesting, Assam

Chilli peppers and spices, Calcutta

One-horned rhino, Kaziranga National Park

Mancotta Chang Bungalow, Dibrugarh

Assam

Kaziranga National Park

Dibrugarh

One of the most languid and verdant regions of India, Assam is a remote state, bordered by mountains and cleaved by the mighty Brahmaputra River. The Ahom dynasty invaded the region from Southeast Asia in the 13th century, building wonderful ochre brick neoVaishnavite temples and creating a distinct culture and atmosphere that make this an intriguing area to explore. Guwahati, a bustling city, is the gateway to this incredibly friendly region where the temperate climate provides a perfect environment for tea cultivation. Elsewhere you’ll find historic river islands and ethnic minorities, national parks home to large populations of rhinos, and glorious Hindu temples. Although rural, infrastructure in this area is improving and it is becoming easier to cross into Bhutan or Myanmar from Assam, making a fascinating side trip into these highly traditional and enigmatic lands.

Wild and remote, Kaziranga is justly known for its one-horned rhinos. Over 70% of the world’s population lives here and can be seen grazing on the river floodplains alongside deer and buffalos. Elephants, elusive tigers, sloth bears, Asiatic black bears and Ganges river dolphins are also present as well as a huge variety of birdlife. The park’s 430 square kilometres of tropical forest, towering elephant grass and swampy marshland are best explored by 4x4, though the wildlife here is so prolific you’re likely to see rhinos grazing on the river bank from the comfort of your lodge.

An ideal place to end a trip through the state, Dibrugarh is Assam’s most famous tea city and is surrounded by vast tea estates where row upon row of immaculate tea bushes are only broken by the occasional acacia tree or paddy field. This region, at the furthest reaches of Assam, is a great place to spend a few quiet days taking tranquil walks through the plantations, enjoying the aromatic local food and sipping endless cups of tea on the veranda of your plantation home.

Jorhat

This traditional plantation bungalow on a working estate is surrounded by manicured tea bushes and offers simple but comfortable rooms in a friendly, homely environment. Old sepia-tinted photos line the walls, meals are served on elegant china alongside the family silver and in many ways it feels as if time has simply stood still here. There are six rooms with polished hardwood floors, king size beds and plain furnishings but the service is attentive and meals are hearty. A tranquil spot to while away a few days, visit local villages or take a plantation tour, it makes an ideal spot to unwind at the end of an Assamese tour.

The bustling market town of Jorhat serves as a convenient gateway to some of Assam’s most fascinating ancient temples and the majestic Majuli Island. The Ahom dynasty made their capital in this region in the 18 th century and the surrounding area is littered with ornate temples, the highlight of which is Sibsagar with its intricate carvings, palaces and monuments. West of this former capital, in the midst of the great Brahmaputra, is the serene Majuli Island, India’s largest, but fast eroding, river island. Home to the Mising people, it is also a spiritual place with 22 Hindu-Vaishnavite monasteries where you can learn about philosophy and local culture.

Mancotta Chang Bungalow, Dibrugarh

Parakeet, Kaziranga National Park

www.audleytravel.com/northeastindia • 01993 838 345 • Calcutta & the east

ABN Sukapha

River cruising India’s roads and trains provide fascinating, and at times exhausting, ways to travel but a cruise along the Brahmaputra or Hugli is a far more leisurely experience. Relaxed and serene, these boat journeys allow you to sit back with a gin and tonic in one hand and a pair of binoculars in the other as you glide along to visit some of India’s most inaccessible sights. Assam Bengal Navigation (ABN) have a fleet of three cruisers across both rivers, running set journeys of varying lengths. Trips run up and downstream, taking in Ahom ruins, rhino-filled Kaziranga National Park and the lush tea plantations for which the region is so famous. Going west you’ll encounter British, Dutch and Portuguese settlements, intricate Hindu temples, colonialera battle sites, tiny villages and bucolic farmland. At the end of each day you return to your boat and can share your day’s stories with fellow guests and your knowledgeable guides over a sundowner on the deck.

ABN Rajmahal

M/V Mahabaahu A more luxurious option for cruises along the Brahmaputra, Far Horizon’s Mahabaahu is a larger and highly sophisticated vessel with a wide range of facilities. The 23 cabins and spacious suites are stylish and there’s also a swimming pool on the deck, a small spa, a theatre and a fitness room. The boat visits the state’s most treasured sites on a series of three to seven night cruises.

Shiva temples, Kalna

ABN ABN’s three comfortable riverboats offer relatively spacious air-conditioned cabins decorated in tasteful contemporary style. The Sukapha and Charaidew have 12 cabins, the slightly larger Rajmahal has 22. You’ll also find large sundecks and a sociable lounge on board, as well as good quality Assamese meals, which are milder than the food found in other parts of India. Service is attentive and very friendly, providing a warm and welcoming atmosphere for guests. Scenery along the Brahmaputra

Suggested itinerary Tailoring your trip

Sun Temple, Konark

The itinerary shown is designed to give you a flavour of what is possible, and is a route that works particularly well. We can use this as a basis to plan your trip or can design a completely different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests. Call one of our northeast India specialists to start planning your itinerary.

T 01993 838 345

Dibrugarh Sibsagar Jorhat Guwahati

Majuli Island

Kaziranga National Park

Calcutta

Getting around Although there are no direct flights to Calcutta, it is easy to get to the northeast via Dubai, Delhi or Mumbai. As travel in Assam can be more challenging than elsewhere in India and standards of English are often lower than in other areas, we recommend a private driver and English-speaking guide throughout to reveal the very best of this unique region.

Fly overnight to Calcutta.

Day 2

Arrive in Calcutta and have the afternoon at leisure.

33 33

Day 3

33 The best time to travel. 3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.

Explore Calcutta’s fascinating streets on a guided walking tour.

Day 4

Continue on to Guwahati and board your river cruise.

Day 5

Glide along the Brahmaputra stopping at a series of interesting sights en route.

Day 6

Enjoy a second full day on your cruiser taking in some of India’s least accessible attractions.

Day 7

Transfer to Kaziranga National Park.

Day 8

Track one-horned rhino on a 4x4 safari deep into the park.

Day 9

Drive to Jorhat for a stay in a colonial-era property.

Day 10

Visit India’s largest river island, Majuli.

Day 11

Continue on to Dibrugarh stopping to see Sibsagar’s remarkable treasures en route.

Day 12

Enjoy a day exploring Dibrugarh’s tea plantations.

Day 13

Fly to Calcutta from Dibrugarh.

Day 14

Return to the airport for your international flight.

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun

Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

33 33 33

Orissa Little-visited and incredibly laid-back, Orissa is a highly rewarding destination with a tranquil atmosphere not found in many other parts of India. The streets of the capital Bhubaneswar are lined with ancient temples and secular buildings, while coastal Puri, a Hindu place of pilgrimage, is a mellow resort with a long beach. The intricately carved Sun Temple at Konark, one of Indian’s greatest monuments and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is accessible from both cities and another fascinating place to explore. For wildlife enthusiasts, a trip to Lake Chilika is a must to see Irrawaddy dolphins and a variety of migratory birds. This captivating blend of history, culture and religion as well as the region’s unhurried charm and excellent seafood make it an irresistible destination, and although travel here can be more challenging than elsewhere in the subcontinent, it seems a small price to pay for such a rewarding experience.

This itinerary covers some of the many highlights of the northeast, taking in both its cultural and natural treasures, from the bustling colonial city of Calcutta to the more sedate charms of rural Assam. Day 1

When to go

Kutia Kondh woman, Orissa

India’s northeast

Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year.

5 Travel is not recommended.

On the whole, the best time to visit the northeast is from November to March. April is a good time for wildlife viewing as grasses are low, increasing rhino sightings, but stronger winds decrease visibility and comfort whilst cruising along the Brahmaputra. Kaziranga National Park closes in late April and does not reopen until November. Time difference: GMT+5.5 hours

Prices We offer trips to cater for a wide range of budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices for your trip to Calcutta & the east on our website, alternatively please call our specialists to discuss your plans.

Stay longer A journey through Calcutta and Assam can easily be combined with a contrasting experience in the Himalayan foothills of West Bengal, around Darjeeling, or in enigmatic and mountainous Bhutan. Alternatively, flights via Delhi mean the ‘Golden Triangle’ is also easily accessible to explore.

Lemon vendor, Calcutta market

www.audleytravel.com/northeastindia • 01993 838 345 • Calcutta & the east

Indian Himalaya S

pectacular scenery, colonial history, magnificent architecture and incredible cultural diversity await in the Indian Himalaya, an extremely rewarding destination to visit. The western Himalaya are home to exiled Tibetan Buddhists who have settled in Dharamshala, Sikhs who congregate in Amritsar to worship at their most sacred shrine, and Hindus performing puja on the riverfront steps, or ghats, along the banks of the Ganges. The cooler temperatures in the mountains made them especially popular in colonial times and the vestiges of the era survive in the former hill stations such as Shimla where beautiful churches and quaint British architecture hark back to days gone by. In the foothills, the holy cities of Rishikesh and Haridwar attract hordes of pilgrims, while the beautiful Corbett National Park is home to a variation of wildlife. Further east, tea plantations blanket the hills around Darjeeling and stunning vistas are revealed as you walk the trails of Kalimpong or Sikkim for an insight into village life. Most remarkable of all, however, is northerly Ladakh with its dramatic desert scenery, magnificent glaciers and age-old cultural traditions.

Audley in the Indian Himalaya

i m

l a

SIKKIM

Leh JAMMU & KASHMIR

Pelling

Teets a

Kangchenjunga

Gangtok

a a

2 Dharamshala

BHUTAN

PAKISTAN

Darjeeling

Pragpur

Amritsar

HIMACHAL PRADESH

Kalimpong Lepcha Area

WEST BENGAL

3 Shimla Chandigarh

Bagdogra

Kalka Mussoorie

PUNJAB

Rishikesh Haridwar

Corbett National Park

Nanda Devi

Almora

Nainital

NEPAL

Kathgodam

HARYANA

0 UTTAR PRADESH

80 miles 129 kilometres

DELHI

Accommodation Across the region accommodation varies from remote lodges with simple facilities to small, characterful guesthouses and a handful of luxurious hotels. Visitor numbers are lower here than in other parts of India and most of the smaller properties are independently owned and run. Service is generally extremely friendly but not as polished as in larger hotels and levels of spoken English may be lower. However, the opportunity to meet local people and interact with them is far higher and the views are simply spectacular. Larger hotels can be quite lavish with the dramatic setting matched by luxurious interiors and a host of facilities.

32 kilometres

NEPAL

Srinagar

20 miles

The Himalaya’s spectacular scenery is a major draw for travellers and with an excellent network of trails there are a host of options for exploring on foot, from half day walks to more difficult hikes, as well as multi-day treks. All are tailor-made to your preference and ability and even if a walk is across a number of days, it doesn’t have to be arduous if you don’t want it to be. Our specialists have first-hand knowledge of the areas so are well-placed to make recommendations regarding walks and excursion ideas, as well as accommodation options. We also work with some fantastic guides, porters and drivers who will accompany you throughout your trip. A fascinating destination for a standalone visit, the Indian Himalaya can also be easily combined with travel in Rajasthan, north India, Nepal or Bhutan.

TIBET

1 Amritsar Protected by a series of medieval gates, Old Amritsar is home to the magnificent Golden Temple, the most sacred Sikh shrine. See page 36 2 Dharamshala

Get an insight into Tibet’s culture and heritage in Dharamshala, home of the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan government in exile. See page 36

3 Shimla Quaint colonial architecture and dramatic views combine in this former summer capital of the British Raj. See page 37

6 Darjeeling A refreshingly cool former hill station, Darjeeling’s lush tea plantations are set against a backdrop of snow-capped peaks. See page 41

4 Corbett National Park Famed for its prolific wildlife including the elusive tiger. See page 39

7 Ladakh A unique culture, breathtaking scenery and incredible birdlife make Ladakh a fascinating place to visit. See pages 42-43

5 Sikkim

Walk among dramatic hills and experience rural life in the mountains as well as Sikkim’s ancient Buddhist culture. See page 41

Mountain railways Enjoy a nostalgic trip through stunning scenery on an old colonial-era narrow gauge railway from Kalka to Shimla or Darjeeling to Ghoom.

www.audleytravel.com/himalaya • 01993 838 345 • Indian Himalaya

The Golden Temple, Amritsar

Ranjit’s Svaasa, Amritsar

Amritsar Thronged with pilgrims who come to see the spectacular Golden Temple, Amritsar was founded in the 16th-century by Sikh guru Ram Das. The old town is a maze of narrow streets and bazaars protected by a series of medieval gates lorded over by the soaring domes of the magnificent gilded temple. Sikhism’s most sacred shrine, the Golden Temple is awash with people who come to bathe in its holy waters and is at its most seductive in the evening when the Adi Granth, the original holy book, is paraded before jostling crowds in the ‘Putting to Bed’ ceremony. Amritsar sits close to the border with Pakistan and you can go to see the theatrical daily closing ceremony when soldiers from each side attempt to outshine each other. Amritsar makes an interesting extension to a trip around Rajasthan, or within a journey through the Himalayan foothills.

A wonderfully warm and atmospheric place to stay, this traditional haveli is tucked away in a residential area off the main road in Amritsar’s bustling new city. The rooms here are set around a tranquil courtyard and the public areas resemble an ornate home rather than a hotel, with family photographs and antiques giving them a charming, old-world character. The 18 guest rooms are individually styled with rich fabrics and dark woods while the well-regarded Ayurvedic spa offers a wide range of treatments. Group yoga sessions are available as well as other activities around the local area.

Pragpur The heritage village of Pragpur is a necessary but rewarding stop to break the journey between Shimla and either Amritsar or Dharamshala, and is a quiet place to spend a night or two. Pragpur’s history is visible in some of its buildings, making it a great place to wander, soak up the village atmosphere and see how people in this part of India live. The only accommodation option, Judge’s Court, is on the edge of the village and takes you back to the days of the Raj. Its old-world charm, throughout the ten rooms, is enhanced by period furniture and captivating old family photographs depicting the village, family and property over the years.

Dharamshala & McLeodganj Home to the Dalai Lama and a large community of exiled Tibetan Buddhists, Dharamshala is set in the western foothills of the Himalaya, surrounded by beautiful mountain views. The lower town is the main transport hub while the upper town, McLeodganj is ten kilometres further into the mountains and the more interesting place to visit. Temples, shrines, monasteries and meditation centres line the streets and the sound of monks chanting fills the air. An extremely relaxed and friendly place, there is a palpable buzz in town when the Dalai Lama is in session in the Tsuglagkhang Complex. Visit the Norbulingka Institute, a Tibetan cultural centre to learn about the country’s arts, crafts and literature, or take to the hills for some magnificent walking through forests of pine, rhododendron and Himalayan oak. A range of simple but characterful properties provide an ideal base from which to explore the region.

Norbulingka Institute, McLeodganj

Local woman, McLeodganj

Mall Road and Christ Church, Shimla

Shimla

Wildflower Hall, near Shimla

Clarkes, Shimla

The toy train, Shimla

Shimla The summer capital of the British Raj in the 1820s, Shimla has a wonderful mountain setting. Mall Road, the town’s main street, is closed to traffic and is lined with colonial-era architecture such as the Gaiety Theatre, Christ Church, the library and town hall, all of which create a sense of stepping back in time. Standing seperately on its own hill, the ornate Viceregal Lodge was built in 1888 and was home to the Viceroy of India. The surrounding countryside is home to traditional villages, open pastures and orchards which make for leisurely walking and it’s worth spending three nights here to fully soak up the atmosphere. The most enjoyable approach to Shimla is on the ‘toy train’, the narrow-gauge Kalka-Shimla railway. Completed in 1903, the track has 864 bridges and 103 tunnels and offers glorious views.

Conveniently located at one end of Mall Road, Clarkes was established in 1898 and is one of Shimla’s oldest hotels. The property is within easy walking distance of many of the town’s attractions and is set in a quaint colonial-era building. Inside, the 32 guest rooms are comfortably but simply furnished and offer good value for money. Although the public areas are a little tired, the history of the building still gives it charm and its location makes it ideal for those wanting to explore Shimla by foot.

The Oberoi Cecil, Shimla A grand, heritage hotel on the outskirts of Shimla, The Cecil offers the charm of bygone days, as well as lovely mountain views. From the moment you enter the impressive central atrium with its grand piano, roaring fire and cast iron lamps, you will know you are somewhere special. The 75 rooms and suites are decorated in an elegant but classical style with teak floorboards, an ottoman and leather-topped desk, while elsewhere you’ll find a pool and spa as well as a choice of dining options. A terraced garden outside provides an excellent spot to unwind. The Cecil is set at the quiet end of Mall Road and is a 15 to 20 minute walk from the heart of town along this pedestrianised street.

Wildflower Hall, near Shimla This luxurious property built on a mountaintop once home to Lord Kitchener’s residence, is a perfect retreat surrounded by pine forest and glorious views of the distant Himalaya. A grand property, its old-world charm is matched by excellent facilities and service ensuring an extremely comfortable stay. The building is decorated in period style throughout with wood-panelled walls, crystal chandeliers and intricate rugs. The 87 rooms and suites are more contemporary but still classical in style and there is a choice of two pools as well as a spa, horse riding and a range of trails though the extensive grounds and surroundings for tranquil and scenic walking. Wildflower Hall is part of the Oberoi group and is a 45-minute drive north of Shimla.

The Oberoi Cecil, Shimla

www.audleytravel.com/himalaya • 01993 838 345 • Indian Himalaya

Aarti, Haridwar

Haridwar Situated at the point where the Ganges flows through its final rapids and transforms into a slower body of water, Haridwar is one of Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s seven holy Hindu cities. This spot has been inhabited for thousands of years and its history is intertwined with the very origins of Hinduism itself. It has witnessed numerous rulers and invaders over the centuries and today draws huge crowds. Temples, monuments and intricately carved havelis line the streets, but the city looks its most impressive in the evening when pilgrims flock to the riverbanks for the evening Aarti and set floating candles adrift on the water. A wonderfully spiritual place, Haridwar is well connected by road and rail and within easy access of Delhi, making it an unusual and highly atmospheric gateway to the region.

Aarti An important daily ritual, an Aarti is a Hindu ceremony where burning lamps are offered to worship a sacred deity. The most public of these ceremonies are the Ganga Aarti (worship to the Ganges River) when priests hold large fire bowls in their hands and pilgrims offer small flames and flowers to the river as a symbol of hope and to give thanks to the Ganges for being a source of life and prosperity. People crowd onto the ghats where the sound of gongs and chanting, as well as the smell of incense,

Haveli Hari Ganga, Haridwar This 90-year-old haveli is situated directly on the edge of the River Ganges and has been carefully restored, offering 19 classically-decorated rooms with rich fabrics and modern bathrooms. Some of the rooms lead onto shared, large balconies that overlook the water. There is also a terrace overlooking the river and a small temple in the inner courtyard. The hotel is a 20 minute walk from Hari Ki Pairi, where the evening Aarti ceremony takes place.

Priest performing Aarti, Haridwar

fills the air. It is an enchanting ceremony and witnessing an Aarti can be a magical and humbling experience as you realise the importance that religion plays in everyday life in India. Varanasi, Haridwar and Rishikesh are the best places to experience this moving ritual. In Varanasi an evening boat trip along the river offers a different perspective on the ceremony and helps avoid the crowds on the banks. In Rishikesh the crowds are smaller but with many travellers attending the ceremony it can feel less authentic. For the most traditional experience visit Haridwar but be prepared to jostle with hundreds of locals on the riverbanks.

Offerings, Aarti ceremony

Sadhu, Haridwar

Rajasthani women, Rishikesh

Haveli Hari Ganga, Haridwar

Ananda, near Rishikesh

Rishikesh

Corbett National Park

Another of India’s seven holy cities, Rishikesh is located upriver from Haridwar where the Ganges emerges from the Sivalik Hills. A city of pilgrimage since ancient times, Rishikesh is renowned as a centre for yoga and meditation and attracts hordes of pilgrims seeking enlightenment. The pace of life here is unhurried but ever since the Beatles visited in 1968 it has been a popular destination for Western travellers. More recently Rishikesh has emerged as a popular river rafting destination with both gentle meandering and quicker paced trips through white-water rapids. The rafting season runs from September to June.

Named after the legendary hunter-turnedconservationist Major Jim Corbett, this park is one of India’s oldest and sits majestically on the edge of the lower Himalaya. This vast park covers open parkland and dense sal forest and is renowned for its enormously varied birdlife including eagles and great hornbill, as well as frequent elephant sightings and plenty of antelope, deer, wild boar and jackals. Although there is a healthy population of tigers in the park, they can be difficult to spot due to the dense vegetation. Accommodation here is generally simple but comfortable and most safaris are by 4x4.

Ananda, near Rishikesh Gloriously relaxed and indulgent, Ananda is a luxurious retreat set in a vast estate. A centre of well-being, the approach here is holistic, from the wide range of Ayurvedic treatments and yoga classes to the delicious but healthy food in the restaurant. The 78 spacious rooms, suites and villas are stylish and well-equipped with panoramic windows and balconies or private gardens offering beautiful views down the valley over the Ganges to Rishikesh. Should you wish to do something more active, there’s a small golf course, cooking classes, good walking and white-water rafting on the Ganges available.

Teak trees, Corbett National Park

Tracing family links For almost 200 years the British had a significant role in Indian affairs and the history of the two countries is inextricably linked. From architecture and cookery to language and culture, both India and Britain have to some extent been transformed by each other. In 1947 India finally celebrated its birth as a sovereign nation, but for many families the ties remain strong and as younger generations start to research their family history the links to the subcontinent become apparent. Our Indian Subcontinent team can help trace roots and assist in planning visits to hospitals and schools to relive old memories, tales and photographs. Talk to a specialist to ensure your itinerary is planned accordingly.

Indian pond heron, Corbett National Park

www.audleytravel.com/himalaya • 01993 838 345 • Indian Himalaya

Path to Shakti 360° Leti, Kumaon region

Kumaon

Lepcha woman, Sikkim

Trekking & village walks The majestic Himalayan landscapes are best appreciated on foot and we specialise in short walks or day treks across the region. We also feature a series of remote village walks in Kumaon, Ladakh and Sikkim which are a wonderful way to appreciate rural life in this area. Walking in the mountains allows time to appreciate the crisp air and stunning views as well as offering the opportunity to meet the local people who live in this incredible landscape. Although moderate fitness is required, we plan walks of between one and five hours per day with an emphasis on enjoying the walking and the scenery rather than testing your limits in higher altitudes. An expert guide will accompany you and introduce you to local community members to enhance your understanding of Himalayan life, while local porters will carry your bags. Accommodation is provided in traditional village houses, some simple, others stylishly renovated, but all of which provide a unique and memorable place to stay in the mountains.

Ladakh Highly traditional and incredibly beautiful, Ladakh is one of India’s most remote regions and is home to some of the most spectacular mountain scenery on the subcontinent. During the short summer season from June to September, this destination makes for great walking and cultural sightseeing. Rugged snow-capped peaks tower over deep, turquoise lakes and high altitude desert while a visit to villages provides an insight into one of the most intact Tantric Buddhist societies still in existence. Sikkim One of India’s most rewarding destinations for mountain scenery, Sikkim is a small but incredibly diverse state with a rich Buddhist culture dating back to the 8 th century. It is a well-established destination but we will ensure that you capture the tranquillity in unspoilt villages and serene monasteries. Throughout a visit the mighty Kanchenjunga, the world’s third highest peak, provides a stunning backdrop.

Kumaon The exceptional scenery in Kumaon has earned it the moniker of the ‘Abode of the Gods’ and the region’s little-visited villages are joined by meandering paths through paddy fields or sal forests and set against a backdrop of Himalayan peaks. A charming region not far from Almora, traditional culture and lifestyle are important here and make it a fascinating place to visit. Few people have heard of Kumaon outside India which means you are unlikely to meet any other travellers and can enjoy this incredible region more or less to yourself. Itmenaan Estate & Lodges, Kumaon region

Itmenaan Estate & Lodges, Kumaon region A hillside estate of terraced fields and orchards, pine, oak and rhododendron forest, Itmenaan offers traditional village accommodation in an intimate setting. A restored dry-stone house and a small cottage lie at the heart of the estate, while two further cottages sit in outlying villages. All have been refurbished using reclaimed materials and traditional local skills and offer simple but authentic mountain accommodation. The rooms have comfortable beds with warm duvets and en suite bathrooms, and a cook is on site to provide hearty traditional meals made from local produce. Each house has a communal area to relax in and outdoor space; a courtyard with an open fire or a canopied roof terrace to admire the views.

Shakti 360° Leti, Kumaon region Wake to a panorama of the Himalaya at this luxurious mountain retreat that blends traditional local construction with contemporary style. There are just four exclusive cottages, each built with dry-stone walls on three sides and floor-to-ceiling windows on the fourth revealing uninterrupted views of the Pancha Chuli peaks or the lush valleys below. Although remote, service here is impeccable and the food sumptuous, with regional and international meals made from fresh local produce. After walking through the villages of Kumaon, Shakti 360° Leti is an indulgent yet somehow unassuming choice providing unforgettable views of the mountains.

Monk, Sikkim

Orchid, Kalimpong

Darjeeling

Darjeeling Himalayan Railway

Rumtek Monastery, Sikkim

Darjeeling

Kalimpong

India’s most famous hill station sits on a high ridge surrounded by lush tea plantations set against a backdrop of snow-capped peaks. An escape from the summer heat of the plains since colonial times, it is home to Nepali, Bhutanese and Tibetan people and popular with international travellers. Along with colonial-era architecture you’ll find Buddhist monasteries and tea estates to explore as well as the fascinating Tenzing Norgay Mountaineering Institute. Most visitors head to Tiger Hill for dawn to see the sun rise over the magnificent mountains and to catch a glimpse of Kanchenjunga, or Everest on clear days, but equally breathtaking vistas are revealed aboard the historic toy train, the narrow-gauge Darjeeling Himalayan Railway which travels here at a sedate pace.

An important centre for the trade of tea along the Silk Route in ancient times, today Kalimpong still attracts local merchants to its colourful market and is a bustling place, home to a variety of monasteries. Quiet routes give visitors an excellent opportunity to meet local people as walks pass through remote villages. School visits or lunch breaks in a villager’s house can be arranged for an authentic insight into life in this isolated mountain region. Kalimpong is also an important plant nursery centre with an ideal climate for the cultivation of gladioli, dahlias and beautiful orchids.

Tea harvesting, Darjeeling

Glenburn, near Darjeeling A gorgeous colonial bungalow set in the heart of a working tea estate, Glenburn provides luxurious period-style accommodation about one and a half hours’ drive from Darjeeling. The eight beautiful rooms are split between two bungalows and feature hand-embroidered bed linen, intricately carved furniture, free-standing baths and fresh flowers. Guests can take a cookery lesson in the open kitchen, go fishing, or enjoy one of the many walking trails in the area, all of which offer excellent opportunities for birdwatching. Guests are also invited to tour the tea plantation on foot with the estate manager to learn about tea cultivation and processing before sampling a cup of their finest blend on the terrace while soaking up the spectacular views.

Sikkim Nestled deep in the foothills and overlooked by the mighty Kanchenjunga, Sikkim is a fascinating place, culturally different from other parts of India. Buddhist culture has long been established here and brightly-clothed Tibetan monks can be seen wherever you go, as can views of the snow-capped peaks reaching as far as Everest on a clear day. Gangtok and Pelling are two fascinating places to visit with Pemayangste and Sangachoeling monasteries accessible from Pelling, while the Rumtek Monastery and the Research Institute of Tibetology are in Gangtok.

Glenburn, near Darjeeling

www.audleytravel.com/himalaya • 01993 838 345 • Indian Himalaya

Monastery at Basgo, Ladakh

Ladakh India’s most remote state, Ladakh is known as ‘the roof of the world’. Its high altitude deserts and glaciers are beautiful and the people here are some of the most traditional in India. The sacred Indus River runs through the region from Tibet and is framed by the Karakorum Range to the west and Tibetan Plateau to the east, ensuring Ladakh hosts some of the world’s most spectacular mountain scenery. In the Nubra Valley, sand dunes are sculpted by the wind, while elsewhere stunning lakes play host to a plethora of migratory birds. The Ladakhis are predominantly Tibetan Buddhist and the food and architecture strongly reflect this, but the culture here is unique with women enjoying higher status and relative freedom compared with many other parts of the country. Ladakhis are also generally self-sufficient despite the hostile climate in which they live. Because of the harsh climate the region is only open to visitors from June to September, and is reached from Delhi by air or by an epic overland journey by road from Manali, which takes at least two days. Due to the altitude you will need time to acclimatise once you arrive. Leh, the capital, is an interesting place to do so with its fort, palace and maze of narrow streets. After a few days here, head into the open countryside to see the traditional way of life and the staggering scenery. 42

Chamba Camp, Thiksey

Shakti Ladakh, Ladakh

Shakti Ladakh, Ladakh A wonderful way to see the traditional villages of the Indus Valley, Shakti Ladakh provides an authentic but very comfortable village experience in locations well off the beaten track. The whole concept revolves around gaining a deeper understanding of the way of life in this remote region and provides guests with a seamless way to participate in local life without having to compromise on comfort. Walk between traditional villages and visit local schools, monasteries and markets before arriving at your village house, a simple traditional dwelling restored and refurbished with refined but understated elegance. Exposed beams and solid-fuel stoves ensure plenty of local character but the carefully chosen furniture and curios, beautiful fabrics and richly woven rugs show impeccable taste. Each village house is individual in style and decor but all offer a deeply luxurious stay as well as a genuine village experience.

Another excellent option for exploring the highlights of Ladakh, Chamba Camp is an extremely comfortable base for a bespoke six-day itinerary. Guests stay in this tented camp at the foot of Thiksey Monastery and set out each day to visit ancient monasteries and sacred sites, traditional villages, age-old fortresses and the fascinating Ladakhi capital, Leh. Itineraries can be adjusted to suit your interests; watch a game of polo, raft down the Indus, go birdwatching, trekking or just enjoy a leisurely picnic in a secluded spot with stunning views. The tents have high ceilings, air-conditioning, private decks and en suite bathrooms and are furnished in a romantic, classical style with four-poster beds, hanging lamps, crisp linens and dark woods. All come with private butler service and the superb camp food is made to local family recipes. In the evenings guest speakers offer an insight into local traditions, customs and history in a series of fire-lit talks.

Chamba Camp, Thiksey

Early Buddhist artwork, Alchi

Shanti Stupa, Leh

Nubra Valley

Monk, Nubra Valley

Leh Set between magnificent peaks, high mountain desert and a splash of bright green irrigated fields, Leh, the capital of Ladakh, makes a fascinating introduction to the country. The city sits at an altitude of 3,505 metres and it is necessary to acclimatise here before travelling further or even taking any moderate exercise. Leh’s extreme location and harsh climate means it is cut off from the rest of the world for much of the year, but for centuries it has been an important trading post for Himalayan people. Routes run up into the Nubra Valley, to the Silk Route, and over the high passes to Manali and the Indian plains. Today, much of the trade comes from tourism and while travellers enjoy the souvenir shops and restaurants, locals lead an almost medieval way of life. Mud-brick houses line the streets, vibrant markets provide a lifeline for local subsistence farmers who come to trade their meagre wares, and for most, life continues much as it has done for centuries. A laid-back city in a spectacular setting, Leh offers a glimpse of an age-old way of life as well as a number of interesting attractions such as the ruined Tibetan-style Leh Palace which dominates the skyline, the Tsemo Fort and Gompa, and the glittering Shanti Stupa.

Grand Dragon, Leh One of Leh’s best accommodation options, the Grand Dragon is a modern hotel blending contemporary design with traditional Ladakhi touches. There are 50 comfortable rooms decorated in sleek international style and offering modern conveniences. The large windows overlook either the stunning Stok Ranges to the south or Leh Palace and Khardung La pass to the north. A range of different cuisines is served in the colourful, traditionally-decorated restaurant and there’s a spacious garden outside with plenty of seating for admiring the views. The hotel also has good environmental practices including solar panels providing the hot water.

Alchi Some of the rarest and most extensive examples of Buddhist art in the Jammu, Kashmir and Ladakhi regions can be found in Alchi, a small village at an altitude of 3,120 metres. The temple complex here dates back to the 11th century and is known for its delicate painted shrines. Remarkably vivid and incredibly detailed, the paintings, along with giant statues and elaborate wood carvings make this one of Ladakh’s most famous sites. The monastery is situated in the village and easy to explore on foot before wandering around the relaxed village market.

Ule Ethnic Resort, near Alchi

Ule Ethnic Resort, near Alchi This family-run resort is one of the oldest places to stay in Ladakh, surrounded by orchards and set on the banks of the Indus a 20-minute drive west of Alchi. There are 31 cottages and 15 rustic huts, all of which are simply but comfortably furnished, each with its own bathroom. There’s a spa, library and a range of activities on offer but few other facilities. Despite this, the resort is an incredibly memorable place to stay.

Nubra Valley Locked between the Ladakh Range and the higher Karakoram Range, the isolated Nubra Valley is most easily reached via the Khardung La pass, the world’s highest motorable mountain road. The oasis villages along the valley are traditional places dependent on agriculture and with a confluence of rivers and long hours of sunshine there are two annual harvests here. Beyond the irrigated fields, stark sand dunes form against a backdrop of snow-capped peaks.

www.audleytravel.com/himalaya • 01993 838 345 • Indian Himalaya

Tailoring your trip The itineraries shown are designed to give you a flavour of what is possible, and are routes that work particularly well. We can use these as a basis to plan your trip or can design a completely different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests. Please call one of our North India specialists to start planning your itinerary.

T 01993 838 345

Dharamshala

pakistan

Pragpur

Amritsar

Shimla

Haridwar india

nepal

Getting around

Boats on Dal Lake, Srinagar

Pine forest, Jammu and Kashmir

Jammu & Kashmir A region once popular with travellers for its beautiful alpine scenery, cool air and scenic trekking, Jammu and Kashmir is currently largely off limits. Recent conflict, especially in disputed Kashmir, mean that many parts of this area remain dangerous and at the time of this brochure going to print, the government advises against all travel to wide swathes of the region. For this reason, Audley is not sending travellers here at this time but hopes to do so as soon as the situation improves and the travel advisory is lifted. Ladakh is not included in the warning and remains as serene and sedate as ever, offering a wonderful alternative destination with a rich culture and heritage, the region’s most spectacular scenery and incredibly friendly people.

Delhi

Although dramatic in their nature, the Himalaya are relatively easy to explore with good road, rail and air links. Most fly into Delhi or Mumbai from where you can connect with a domestic airline for an internal flight into the mountains. The rail system from colonial days makes train travel a good option too, although it is not up to Western standards, so may not suit everyone. Most travel is done by road across the Himalaya regions, however varying road quality and volume of traffic means journey times can be unpredictable. We use 4x4 vehicles where required and ensure you always have a driver and guide with you. In Ladakh we will also provide porters if necessary.

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun

33 33 33

33 33

Day 1

Fly overnight to Delhi.

Day 2

Arrive in Delhi and enjoy a leisurely afternoon.

Day 3

Take the train to Kalka before continuing on the scenic ‘toy train’ to Shimla.

Day 4

Discover Shimla’s charms with a stroll along Mall Road and visits to its historic sights.

Day 5

Drive to Pragpur for an insight into rural life.

Day 6

Continue to Dharamshala and visit McLeodganj, home to the Dalai Lama.

Day 7

Learn about Tibetan culture, lifestyles and beliefs on a visit to the Norbulingka Institute and a Buddhist monastery.

Day 8

Drive to Amritsar and enjoy the closing of the border ceremony.

Day 9

Explore the spectacular Golden Temple by day and return at dusk to see the elaborate ‘Putting to Bed’ ceremony.

Day 10

Take the train to Haridwar and enjoy the evening Aarti ceremony.

Day 11

Visit Rishikesh and experience a different Ganges Aarti.

Day 12

Catch the early morning or late afternoon train back to Delhi

Day 13

Transfer to the airport for your international flight.

33 The best time to travel. 3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.

Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year.

5 Travel is not recommended.

Warm daytime temperatures (around 20C/68F) and cooler evenings (around 10C/50F) make February to April the best months to visit the Indian Himalaya. October and November also offer similarly good conditions after the monsoon has ended. Changeable and cold (5-10C/40-50F) weather in December and January makes winter a less suitable option, but when clear, the incredible mountain views will be your reward. If you wish to visit tea plantations in the Himalaya, it is worth noting that picking and production stops from about mid-November until mid-March. Ladakh is completely different to the lower Himalaya regions. Its harsh climate means that travel is only possible from June to September.

Prices We offer trips to cater for a wide range of budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices for your trip to Indian Himalaya on our website, alternatively please call our specialists to discuss your plans.

India’s western Himalaya is an incredibly diverse area and this itinerary takes in its cultural and historic highlights.

Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

Time difference: GMT+5.5 hours

Tsemo Fort and Gompa, Leh

Western Himalaya Explored

When to go 3

china

Stay longer Follow your trip with a few days in Rajasthan to see its cultural and architectural treasures or visit Corbett National Park to trek through the jungle on the trail of wild elephants.

Suggested itineraries china india

india Pelling

Nubra Valley Gangtok

Rishikesh Haridwar

Alchi

Leh china

bhutan

Corbett National Park

Kalimpong

Darjeeling

Almora

pakistan

Kathgodam nepal Delhi

Calcutta

nepal india

india

Bagdogra

nepal

From Calcutta

Delhi

Adventurous Himalaya

Tea and Buddhism

Ladakh Explored

A more active trip through the Indian Himalaya, this activity-focussed itinerary offers plenty of opportunities to explore the mountain scenery up close as well as get a sense of local culture. Take in historic cities, raft down the Ganges, track wildlife in Corbett National Park and hike between mountain villages in the remote Kumaon region for an insight into rural life.

Explore spectacular mountain scenery and Nepali, Bhutanese and Tibetan culture in the northeastern Himalaya on this comprehensive itinerary taking in the grand architecture of Calcutta as well as the Buddhist monasteries of Sikkim, the villages of Kalimpong and the tea plantations of Darjeeling.

Explore the spectacular scenery and cultural treasures of ‘Little Tibet’ on this itinerary which takes in the monasteries around Leh, the Khardung La pass and Nubra Valley Ladakh is only accessible from June to September.

Arrive in Delhi, spend the afternoon relaxing or exploring.

Day 2

Arrive in Calcutta and have the afternoon at leisure.

Day 3

Fly to Leh and have a quiet day to acclimatise to the altitude.

Day 3

Explore rich history and culture on a guided tour.

Day 4

Explore Leh on a walking tour and visit the Shanti Stupa at sunset.

Day 4

Fly to Bagdogra and travel by road to the ancient trading post of Kalimpong.

Day 5

Enjoy dramatic scenery and visits to Thiksey, Shey and Hemis monasteries.

Day 5

Walk to local villages for a glimpse of mountain life and enjoy lunch in a local home.

Day 6

Enjoy a spectacular drive along the Indus Valley to Alchi, visiting Rizong Monastery en route.

Day 6

Travel from Kalimpong across the Sikkim border to Gangtok.

Day 7

Explore Alchi and the ancient Buddhist history of the area.

Day 7

Visit the Rumtek Monastery and the Research Institute of Tibetology.

Day 8

Drive back to Leh visiting the remarkable ruins at Basgo en route.

Day 8

Drive to Pelling to visit the Pemayangste and Sangachoeling Monasteries.

Day 9

Head to the former colonial hill station of Darjeeling.

Visit the isolated monasteries at Stakna, Matho and Stok, all surrounded by stunning, towering peaks.

Day 10

Explore a local tea estate and learn about tea cultivation and production.

Drive over one of the world’s highest road passes to the Nubra Valley.

Day 11

Unwind with a leisurely walk through the surrounding hills.

Day 11

Explore the Nubra Valley.

A final day in Delhi to explore or relax.

Day 12

Return to Leh by road.

Day 12

Fly to Delhi or Calcutta from Bagdogra.

Day 13

Transfer to the airport for your international flight.

Connect with your international flight.

Day 13

Return to the airport for your international flight.

Day 2

Explore or relax after arriving in Delhi.

Day 3

Take the train to holy Haridwar, join the crowds on the riverbanks for the evening Aarti.

Day 4

Drive to Rishikesh to raft down the Ganges or explore rural villages.

Day 5

Continue by road to Corbett National Park for an afternoon 4x4 safari.

Day 6

Explore the park in more depth on the trail of some of its exotic wildlife.

Day 7

Drive to Almora and start your walk heading to a Kumaon village house.

Day 8

Continue on foot to the next village house, enjoying tranquil trails and stunning views.

Day 9

Spend another day walking between villages in the mountains.

Day 12

Day 2

Fly overnight to Calcutta.

Fly overnight to Delhi.

Day 11

Fly overnight to Delhi.

Day 1 Day 1

Day 10

Day 1

A final morning walking before meeting your car and taking the train from Kathgodam to Delhi.

Stay longer Extend this itinerary with a few more nights in a remote mountain retreat such as the luxurious Shakti 360° Leti with its stunning mountain views, or combine it with the cultural highlights of Rajasthan or the cities of the western Himalaya.

Stay longer Combine time in the northeastern Himalaya with a boat trip along the River Hugli or through Assam on the Brahmaputra. Alternatively, travel to Nepal or Bhutan for a contrasting Himalayan experience and a greater understanding of Buddhism.

Stay longer Stay in Ladakh for longer, spend a little more time acclimatising, have more relaxation or embark on an overnight trek depending on your abilities and interests. Alternatively, a short flight back to Delhi could mean a quick exploration of north India’s Golden Triangle.

www.audleytravel.com/himalaya • 01993 838 345 • Indian Himalaya

Mumbai, Goa & central F

rom the frenetic pace of India’s largest city to the deserted plains of the Deccan Plateau, central India is one of the subcontinent’s most diverse regions and rewards visitors with an immense variety of landscapes and attractions. Here the faithful toiled in the sun to carve elaborate temples from remote cliff faces while medieval princes grew fabulously wealthy on the spoils of the region’s rich mineral resources. This was once a region of Hindu and Muslim kingdoms, and today is dotted with ancient cities, colonial gems and some of the country’s most striking religious monuments. The majestic Deccan Plateau remains little-visited, its unusual landscapes and crumbling monuments more than compensating for any lack of infrastructure. By contrast, cosmopolitan Mumbai is an expanding metropolis, home to a melting pot of people and cultures, a truly fascinating city to explore both day and night. Further south, lush forested hills descend through sleepy villages to Goa’s heralded beaches and the Arabian Sea. Enduringly popular, Goa’s laid-back charm and natural beauty make it a relaxing end for a trip along a road less-travelled.

Audley in Mumbai, Goa & central India 2 Ajanta Caves

Ellora Caves

MAHARASHTRA

Mumbai

D e c c a n P l a t e a u

r n

a n Se

5 Badami

Hyderabad

Bijapur Pattadakal & Aihole Hospet Hampi

ANDHRA PRADESH

Accommodation Accommodation options vary widely across this region. Unsurprisingly, Mumbai offers hotels for every taste and budget, we have hand-picked a few favourites in the best locations which we can recommend to you. In the central Deccan Plateau the choice is limited and towns often have only one reasonable hotel. Goa’s popularity means that hotels are numerous but busy. We have sought out some quieter options that offer character and charm as well as excellent locations and service. These vary from colonial mansions and boutique hotels to more modern waterfront resorts, but all offer a memorable base from which to enjoy this captivating state.

100 miles

161 kilometres

The Deccan Plateau is a largely undeveloped region, but we have spent time exploring and getting to know the hidden treasures. Our specialists will offer the best advice on where to go after discussing your interests and expectations. By comparison, Goa is an extremely easy end to a trip and offers stunning beaches and an irresistible languid charm.

Bay of Bengal

GOA

Panaji

ORISSA

Aurangabad

W e s t e

Arabia

Standards of infrastructure and accommodation vary across this vast area, but our knowledge and experience of the region, as well as our honest advice, will help you plan your trip. We use knowledgeable guides to help navigate any challenges and ensure your trip runs smoothly and is enjoyable from start to finish. Mumbai can be an overwhelming place on first arrival, but our recommendations will help you discover some of the most vibrant and memorable parts of the city.

KARNATAKA

Bangalore TAMIL NADU

1 Mumbai Ancient yet avant-garde, India’s largest city is an astounding place with relentless energy. See page 48

2 Ajanta & Ellora Two remote UNESCO World Heritage Sites, these richly decorated cave temples are simply breathtaking. See page 51

3 Golconda A medieval capital and fort which grew wealthy on the trade of some of the world’s finest gemstones. See page 51 4 Hampi Elaborate ancient temples and palaces set in a surreal boulder-strewn landscape. See page 52 5 Deccan Plateau

A rewarding but little-visited region with temples and cultural treasures. See pages 52-53 6 Goa Gloriously laid-back and relaxing, Goa offers endless beaches as well as the fascinating remnants of a colonial past. See page 54 Gateway of India, Mumbai

www.audleytravel.com/centralindia • 01993 838 330 • Mumbai, Goa & central India

Mumbai beach and city view

Mumbai Financial hub, commercial centre and the glittering home of Bollywood, Mumbai is a glorious assault on the senses. It is India’s largest and most cosmopolitan city, sprawling in every direction as people flock here to make their fortune. At first an overwhelming and contradictory place where the excesses of India’s most wealthy butt up against some of the world’s largest slums, scratch under the surface and you will discover a fascinating city of contrasts where the whole gamut of life is laid bare before you. The historic downtown area has an incredibly rich collection of colonial-era buildings, monuments and museums as well as glittering shopping malls, bustling markets and some of India’s finest restaurants and bars. If it all gets too much, it’s relatively easy to escape the hectic pace of city life in the numerous parks and gardens, along the seafront, or on a boat trip to Elephanta Island to see its interesting cave temples.

Trident Nariman Point, Mumbai

The Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai The Grande Dame of Mumbai hotels, The Taj Mahal Palace is a legendary place and one of the city’s most famous landmarks. The hotel has hosted royalty, foreign dignitaries and celebrities over the years and is renowned for its opulent decor and impeccable service. The eclectic design takes elements from Moorish, Oriental and Indian architecture and blends them with more contemporary Asian and Western influences to create a rich, heritage style. A diverse collection of antiques and artworks adorn the public spaces while the 560 rooms and suites are decorated in a luxurious classical style. There are ten restaurants to choose from, a swimming pool, spa and even a shopping mall.

Trident Nariman Point, Mumbai Built on a grand scale, this large high-rise hotel overlooks Mumbai’s stylish Marine Drive and the seafront promenade, and has modern interiors throughout. Attracting a mix of business and leisure travellers, it is a vibrant choice with a range of restaurants as well as a well-equipped fitness centre and spa. The 555 spacious rooms are contemporary in style with views over the city or across the bay. This excellent value hotel also has a wonderful pool with sea views, maximising its great location.

The Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai

The Leela, Mumbai Conveniently located close to the airport, The Leela is a comfortable, modern hotel with great service and facilities. Although contemporary in style, the hotel manages to retain local character with carved panelling and curios, inspired by India’s rich history. The 391 rooms and suites are luxuriously decorated in an international style and feature all modern conveniences. Set in extensive gardens, the hotel has a choice of good restaurants and a lovely outdoor pool.

The Leela, Mumbai

Dhobi ghat, Mumbai

Under the skin of Mumbai For some, Mumbai is just an airport hub for onwards travel, but if you have a day or two to spare there is lots to discover. A fast-paced, densely packed metropolis with a myriad of attractions and neighbourhoods, it is best explored with a local guide who can simplify logistics and reveal the heart and soul of the city and its fascinating people. Depending on your interests, there are many options for exploring the city; from a guided tour at dawn before the city awakes and browsing local markets to visiting the set of a Bollywood film, or a poignant insight into the lives of Mumbai’s entrepreneurial slum dwellers.

Laundry and the dhobi-wallahs A visit to a traditional open-air laundry area called a dhobi ghat, offers visitors a revealing insight into the hidden workers who keep the garments of this enormous city clean. Every day thousands of pieces of laundry are taken to the ghats from hotels, hospitals, restaurants and private homes and washed by a legion of dhobi-wallahs (laundry workers). A visit here is one you are unlikely to forget with hundreds of families working together, soaping, thrashing and pounding out the dirt at concrete wash pens. Dried in colourful lines and pressed by large, heavy irons, each item is returned to its original owner – identified by a hidden mark. Dharavi slum A place of extreme poverty but continual hope and hard work, Dharavi, Asia’s largest slum is home to more than a million people, many of whom came to Mumbai to seek their fortunes but couldn’t afford the city’s high rents. A half day tour of the slum is an eye-opening and thought provoking experience. Smelly, dirty and at times disturbing, a visit will provide a unique insight into the reality of life in Mumbai and the incredible enterprise and good humour of people who live in truly staggering conditions. Narrow lanes with open sewers are flanked by tiny huts where residents run a profusion of businesses from pottery and recycling to soap making, embroidery and leather tanning.

Dharavi slum, Mumbai

We have spent time ensuring we work with a responsible company who understand the sensitivities of exploring an area like this. The tours we offer are run by a not-for-profit enterprise that donates 80% of proceeds to local NGOs. Welcome to Bollywood India’s film industry churns out movies at almost twice the speed of Hollywood. Spend a day gaining an insight into the studios, stars and stunts that make up this massive homegrown enterprise. About 900 films are made in Bollywood each year and you’ll get a behind-the-scenes look at how these colourful movies are made at the Sankraman and Balaji film studios. Have lunch at a local restaurant then visit a post production sound studio and a Bollywood dance workshop. The exact content of the day will depend on the filming schedule but with the sheer volume of films in production at any one time, it’s sure to be a revealing experience.

Artist painting a Bollywood poster

www.audleytravel.com/centralindia • 01993 838 330 • Mumbai, Goa & central India

Maharajas’ Express

Rail journey

Palace on Wheels

Trains & rail journeys Travelling by train in India is a rewarding, but at times, challenging option. The extensive train system carries millions of passengers each day and joining them offers a unique perspective on this fascinating country. From the moment you step onto the platform with the chai (tea) vendors and smell of freshly-cooked samosas, you’ll be immersed in local life in all its frenetic glory. We will provide a representative to accompany you at either end of your trip to help simplify the logistics and you can choose a full day journey to just a few hours on board depending on your preferences and itinerary. Local trains India’s extensive train system is one of the best ways to get around to experience the country in a whole new light. Private cabins are not available on standard Indian trains but you can reserve your seat and travel in relative comfort. The trains are generally very sociable places and hawkers ply the aisles selling everything from hot food to stationery. Although generally efficient, delays are frequent however, and fog between December and early February can cause havoc with schedules in the north. The short express trains that run between Delhi and Agra offer a great introduction to the Indian rail system as do the historic narrow gauge mountain railways around Shimla, Darjeeling and Ooty.

Local train, Delhi

Palace on Wheels Perhaps the best known of India’s luxury trains, the Palace on Wheels covers all of Rajasthan’s key attractions from the pink city of Jaipur to the fort of Jaisalmer, Udaipur, the romantic lake city, Ranthambhore National Park, Chittorgarh with its famous Rajput architecture and finally the Taj Mahal. Although not quite as luxurious as the Maharajas’ Express, it is still a wonderfully nostalgic way to travel and offers air-conditioned cabins with en suite facilities and personal attendants, two restaurants and a lounge car.

Maharajas’ Express

Palace on Wheels

Luxury trains There are several luxury trains that operate on set routes allowing passengers to cover large distances and many attractions in a short period of time. Inspired by the trains once used by India’s royal families, this is train travel on a grand scale. The sights of Rajasthan and north India are well covered by several of these trains, however the south has fewer options. Journeys usually last seven days and pack in as many attractions as possible so it can be a tiring option and is best combined with a few days of relaxation or a longer itinerary. Luxury trains are not immune to problems however, with group excursions, overambitious itineraries on some routes and cancellations and delays still possible. For this reason we only recommend some operators. Please speak to a specialist for further details.

One of the world’s great train services, the Maharajas’ Express is India’s most luxurious train. Sumptuous carriages combine traditional Indian design with modern conveniences for an extremely comfortable experience. There are well-equipped cabins, two restaurants, a bar and an observation lounge as well as a well-planned schedule of outings. Journeys generally last a week and cover a variety of routes including Delhi to Mumbai, Bandhavgarh National Park and the fascinating city of Varanasi.

Maharajas’ Express

Cave temple, Ajanta

Local market, Hyderabad

Golconda fort, Hyderabad

Bibi-ka-Makbara, Aurangabad

Taj Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad

Aurangabad

Buddhist religious art. At Ellora, less then 100 kilometres away, is a second group of magnificent temples, also recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Thought to have been carved from the high basalt cliff by priests and pilgrims using the route, the temples date from around 600 to 1000 AD. There are 34 monasteries and temples devoted to Buddhism, Hinduism and Jainism here but the undoubted highlight is the Hindu Kailash Temple, the world’s largest monolithic sculpture. Over 200,000 tonnes of rock were removed from the cliff over a period of 150 years to create this awe-inspiring temple.

designer heels. The old fort at Golconda is famed for its acoustics which alerted residents to the faintest hint of attack, but it is south of here in the Kistna Valley, that the state’s great wealth was created in the prolific mines that produced some of the world’s finest gemstones including the magnificent Koh-I-Noor diamond. In its heyday the valley flooded Hyderabad’s markets with precious stones and fuelled the local royalty’s fabulous wealth and hedonistic lifestyle.

Briefly the capital of the last Mughal emperor Aurangzeb, Aurangabad is home to a number of cultural sites as well as being a convenient base for visiting the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Ajanta and Ellora. Aurangzeb built a citadel here in the 17th century and the ruins of many ancient mosques and palaces give this otherwise modern city a strong historical context. Rock-cut Buddhist caves, the tombs of Aurangzeb and other Muslim rulers as well as Deccan and Sufi saints can all be visited, but the most impressive landmark is Bibi-ka-Makbara, the impressive mausoleum of Aurangzeb’s queen which was inspired by the Taj Mahal. Several kilometres away, the well preserved 14th-century fort city of Daulatabad, with its numerous lines of defence, stands on a hilly outcrop commanding great views of the surrounding countryside.

Ajanta & Ellora Abandoned and lost to the jungle for centuries, the elaborate cave temples of Ajanta were rediscovered by a British hunting party in 1819. From around 200 BC Buddhist monks had begun carving out caves in a cliff face above a bend in the Waghore River. The practice continued for 700 years and today, these prayer halls and monasteries with their intricate paintings and sculptures are considered masterpieces of

Hyderabad Once one of India’s wealthiest and most powerful cities, Hyderabad today is a fascinating blend of old and new. Dotted with ancient tombs, palaces, monuments and mosques, it is also a thriving technology hub and home to a new-found wealth which sustains a glut of designer boutiques, trendy restaurants and hip bars. The city is made up of three distinct districts: the old city of Hyderabad, the modern Secunderabad, and the medieval fortress capital, Golconda. The old town is the most interesting area with its rich architectural history including the stately British Residency and the landmark Charminar, an elaborate monumental archway, as well as its colourful bazaars where burqa-clad women shop alongside those in

Taj Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad Previously the royal guesthouse of local nobleman Nizam Mehboob Ali Khan and the sole preserve of royalty and state guests, the Falaknuma Palace has been meticulously restored and now operates as a luxury hotel. A blend of Tudor and Italian architecture on an epic scale, the ‘Mirror of the Sky’, is Hyderabad’s most elaborate palace and intricate restoration work continues across the property each year. Surrounded by themed gardens and lavishly decorated with Italian marble, French tapestries, Italian chandeliers and Kashmiri furniture, the hotel currently offers 60 guest bedrooms, a variety of Indian speciality and international cuisine as well as a unique sense of history.

www.audleytravel.com/centralindia • 01993 838 330 • Mumbai, Goa & central India

Ruins of Hampi

Hampi

Bijapur

Set in an otherworldly landscape strewn with massive boulders and blanketed in banana plantations, the serene ruins of Hampi, former capital of the Vijayanagar Empire, are a magical place to explore. Hampi was an incredibly wealthy place between the 14th and 16th centuries and was renowned for its opulent festivals and huge markets selling luxurious silks and precious stones. The city, which is set on the picturesque Tungabhadra River, was destroyed by an alliance of Deccani sultans in 1665 and its ruined temples, palaces, sculptures and elephant stables are gloriously atmospheric. A small, modern village serves the needs of visitors and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s well worth allowing at least two days here to properly explore.

Once an important regional capital, Bijapur is now a minor provincial town which attracts few tourists. A trip here offers a unique look at rural Indian life as well as the chance to visit the architectural gems which adorn the town. A former capital, the town is strewn with palaces and mosques, tombs and fortifications all of which you can enjoy in peace as you are unlikely to encounter many other travellers here. A highlight is an early morning trip to the vast mausoleum of Gol Gumbaz to climb up the narrow staircase to the amazing whispering gallery where the smallest sound will be carried across to the other side of the huge unsupported dome. Also worth a visit are the markets frequented by local women in brightly coloured hand-woven fabrics and the occasional sadhu meditating on a bed of nails.

Banana plantation worker, Hampi

Bidar Fort

Bidar Few visitors make it to the dusty streets of Bidar, a small city on the Deccan Plateau in northeastern Karnataka, but this historic city is well worth a visit. Capital of the Bahmani Empire, the first independent Islamic kingdom in south India, from 1425 to 1527, Bidar is home to an impressive collection of monuments and ruins from this time. At its heart is the fortified medieval old town with a set of monumental gateways and the imposing remains of the once great Mahmud Gawan Arabic University. Just to the north are the well-preserved remains of extensive Bidar Fort with its towers and triple moat, while to the east are the Bahmani tombs with their vividly painted interiors.

Mausoleum of Gol Gumbaz, Bijapur

The Boulders of Hampi The unique boulder-strewn landscape of Hampi attracts travellers to the area but it is the magical atmosphere here that encourages many to stay longer than they had anticipated. The serene riverside ruins are only part of the appeal however, the surreal landscape with its giant granite rocks haphazardly placed is a mysterious place to wander. In places, enormous solitary rocks cling precariously to hillsides, in others you’ll find elaborately stacked rock towers and giant heaps of boulders big enough to form hills that poke through the leaves of the

Local man, Bijapur

banana plantations. These rocks are some of the most ancient on the planet, shaped by wind erosion over millions of years. Unsurprisingly, this mysterious landscape has inspired numerous myths and legends and was seen as an auspicious place for the capital of the Vijayanagar Empire. For a good overview of the region and a sense of its vast scale, climb to the top of Matunga Hill. Although a popular spot, road conditions around Hampi are poor. You will be accompanied by a dedicated guide to help you get the most from your trip.

Flower sellers, Bidar

Badami

Heritage Resort, Badami

Famous for its rock-cut cave temples, Badami is a small village of whitewashed houses surrounding a tranquil lake. Built between two large red sandstone hills, it is a picturesque setting and between the 4th and 8th centuries was a capital of the Chalukyas, whose empire stretched to Goa and Gujarat. Narrow lanes climb from the village’s busy bazaar to imposing forts on the northern and southern sides of the town. Around the lake you’ll find free-standing temples in a variety of styles, while high on the hills on either side of the town are the elaborate cave temples, similar in style to those at Ellora.

A small but attractive property just outside Badami, Heritage Resort has six cottages set in a well-tended garden. The spacious rooms are decorated in a simple, modern style and each has its own outdoor seating area as well as an en suite bathroom. The restaurant is set in a pavilion with open sides and serves a vegetarian menu and although alcohol is not served, you can have a drink in your cottage. There are few additional facilities but the staff here are genuinely friendly and attentive and the atmosphere is very relaxed.

Pattadakal & Aihole The Chalukya Empire was made up of three related but individual dynasties, and along with Badami, Pattadakal and Aihole were also ancient capitals of this powerful group. Pattadakal, a Chalukyan capital between the 7th and 8th centuries, is set on the banks of the Malaprabha River and home to an impressive series of Hindu temples as well as a Jain sanctuary. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the temples conform to various styles and the two largest, built to celebrate victory over the Pallava dynasty at Kanchipuram, were designed by one of the Pallava’s chief architects with beautifully carved columns depicting scenes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata.

Aihole temples

Aihole, the first Chalukyan capital, was established in the 6th century and developed over a period of more than 600 years. Regarded as the cradle of Indian temple design, it has about 140 temples set around the small village and the surrounding fields and rocky outcrops. Many have now been converted for other uses but the main sites are enclosed in a well-maintained park. Some of the temples contain beautiful carvings, while the Ladh Khan Temple has a pillared porch and large sculpture of a Nandi bull.

Heritage Resort, Badami

www.audleytravel.com/centralindia • 01993 838 330 • Mumbai, Goa & central India

Cloth sellers, Goa

Goa Goa’s glorious beaches and charm have made it a popular coastal retreat since colonial times. Beaches range from long stretches of golden sand to pebbly, secluded coves, though in general the northern half of the state is more developed with large resorts, lively nightlife and numerous markets. The south is a little quieter with hotels generally more spread out along the coast. Despite its popularity, Goa remains a magical place with a charming character. Once a Portuguese enclave, Goa is dotted with centuries-old churches, convents and cathedrals, handsome mansions and elaborate monuments. Along with this strong architectural heritage, the music, food and atmosphere here differ from elsewhere in India. The majority of Goa’s tasty, fresh cuisine comes straight from the sea and blends fresh seafood with coconut, local herbs, spices and cashew nuts.

Vivanta by Taj – Holiday Village, Goa

The Leela, Goa A large, lavish hotel set around a tranquil riverside lagoon, The Leela is an Audley favourite offering excellent service and facilities as well as local charm. The hotel is set in extensive gardens and has its own 12-hole golf course, a lovely pool, spa and a choice of four restaurants. There are 186 guest rooms and suites decorated in an elegant contemporary style with some local touches. Each offers plenty of space and facilities while the club rooms have private butler service and an additional swimming pool for the exclusive use of club guests.

Vivanta by Taj – Holiday Village, Goa A well-established resort surrounded by pretty gardens, the Holiday Village blends Goan and Portuguese influences in its 142 colourful rooms and cottages set along meandering paths through the grounds. The hotel has a choice of restaurants ranging from fine dining to beachside seafood and private meals served under a 300-year-old banyan tree. There’s also a large swimming pool with a sunken bar, a spa and access to a sandy beach. The comfortably furnished rooms have private balconies or gardens and include local touches.

The Leela, Goa

Alila Diwa, Goa Designed in traditional Goan style, the Alila Diwa is modern with stylish contemporary interiors. Set back from the beach but with easy access to the sands, the beautiful main infinity pool overlooks the lush paddy fields that separate it from the coast. There’s a range of dining options to choose from and 153 spacious rooms decorated in a simple but elegant style. Diwa Wing guests also have exclusive use of an additional pool and restaurant. A tranquil choice away from the crowds, Alila Diwa is also close to the historic churches and restaurants of Majorda.

Alila Diwa, Goa

Suggested itineraries Tailoring your trip

Bikaner

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a flavour of what is possible, and are routes that work particularly well. We can use these as a basis to plan your trip or can design a completely different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests. Call one of our India specialists to start planning your itinerary.

Jodhpur Aurangabad

Udaipur

Balasinor Mumbai Mumbai Hyderabad Bijapur

Goa

Hampi

Getting around

Cochin Marari Alleppey

Daily flights to Delhi and Mumbai allow you to easily connect to your onwards destination using domestic flights. Apart from some luxury, set-itinerary train tours, the rail network here is slow and inefficient making a car and driver the best option for internal travel. We use air-conditioned vehicles with drivers both in rural areas and in Mumbai.

When to go Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun

Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

33 33

33 The best time to travel. 3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.

Agra Ranthambhore National Park

Badami

T 01993 838 330

33 33 33

Delhi

Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year.

A Journey through central India Explore the ancient temples, faded Islamic architecture and cities of Central India on this comprehensive tour of this little-visited region.

Time difference: GMT+5.5 hours

Fly overnight to Mumbai.

Day 2

Enjoy a leisurely first day.

Day 3

Explore Mumbai’s markets or Bollywood scene with a local guide.

Days 2-3 Arrive in Delhi. Explore with a local guide before boarding the train to Agra.

Day 4

Fly from Mumbai to Aurangabad and visit Ellora’s incredible cave temples.

Day 4

Visit the spectacular Taj Mahal and some of Agra’s other sights.

Day 5

Take a trip to visit the spectacular Buddhist caves at Ajanta.

Day 5

Day 6

Fly to Hyderabad via Mumbai. Explore historic Golconda Fort.

Take a safari in Ranthambhore National Park before enjoying the Pink City of Jaipur.

Day 6

Explore Hyderabad visiting the Salar Jung Museum and colourful bazaars.

Continue to Bikaner, a less-visited corner of Rajasthan.

Day 7

Head off the beaten track and drive west into the Deccan Plateau.

Explore the Mehrangarh Fort and bustling markets of Jodhpur.

Day 8

Visit the ruins of Gulbarga Fort before continuing on to Bijapur.

Visit the beautiful city of Udaipur, spend time on Lake Pichola.

Day 9

Continue to Balasinor in the state of Gujarat.

Day 10

Arrive in Mumbai, disembark and fly on to Cochin.

Day 11

Explore Cochin and get a feel for its colonial history.

Day 12

Drive to Alleppey and board a traditional rice barge for a night on the backwaters.

Day 13

Enjoy the morning on the boat before transferring to Marari.

Day 14

Relax on the beach for the day.

Day 15

Return to Cochin for your international flight.

Day 7 Day 8 Day 9 Day 10

Prices We offer trips to cater for a wide range of budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices for your trip to Mumbai, Goa and central India on our website, alternatively please call our specialists to discuss your plans.

Combining sights of both north and south India, this itinerary is built around a week-long luxury train journey covering such legendary attractions as the Taj Mahal, Jaipur and Udaipur. This route can also work by road, excluding the rail element.

Day 1

5 Travel is not recommended.

October to March is the best time to travel in this region. Sea breezes moderate the temperatures on the coast (around 32C/90F) but inland the arid rocky landscape can feel much hotter. Christmas and New Year are peak season in Goa when resorts can be very busy. April and May are even hotter (up to and above 40C/104F) and from June to September it is humid and very wet on the coast.

Train Travel & Backwaters

Take an early morning tour of Gul Gumbaz with its whispering gallery before exploring some of Bijapur’s other Islamic monuments.

Day 11

Drive to Badami and visit the 6th-century cave temples.

Day 12

Explore the temples of the Chalukya capitals Pattadakal and Aihole en route to Hampi.

Day 13

Wander the ruins of ancient Vijayanagar.

Day 14

Drive through the lush hills of the Western Ghats to Goa.

Day 15

Explore historic Old Goa or just relax on the beach.

Day 16

Fly to Mumbai to connect with your onwards international flight.

Day 1

Fly overnight to Dheli.

Stay longer Include the Deccan Plateau to explore ancient ruins, impressive cave temples and the Gol Gumbaz whispering gallery.

Stay longer Add a few days to explore the region south of Hampi to visit the remarkable temples at Belur and Halebid, or the historic city of Mysore.

Colonial architecture, Mumbai

www.audleytravel.com/centralindia • 01993 838 330 • Mumbai, Goa & central India

Tamil Nadu & Karnataka S

cenically diverse and rich in wildlife, temples and colonial gems, this vast swathe of southern India is a treat to explore. Stretching from the jungle covered hills of the Western Ghats to the Coromandel Coast, it encompasses untouched wilderness as well as frenetic, high-tech cities such as Bangalore. A progressive and cosmopolitan city, Bangalore stands in marked contrast to rural Karnataka and Tamil Nadu with their unhurried pace of life and wealth of cultural treasures. Running along the western border of the two states are the ghats, a mountainous region blanketed in tea and coffee plantations, quaint towns established during the British Raj, and a series of wildlife sanctuaries home to elephants, gaur and tigers as well as abundant birdlife. In southern Karnataka is Mysore, a magnificent ancient city with grand monuments, while further southeast, Tamil Nadu remains a world apart; a distinct region quite unlike the rest of India. Three powerful Hindu dynasties ruled this fascinating state for 1,000 years and the rich cultural heritage and wealth of art and architecture they left behind make it a very rewarding place to explore.

Audley in Tamil Nadu & Karnataka Tamil Nadu and Karnataka have enough attractions to warrant a standalone visit but are also easy to combine with a tour of Kerala. We suggest using a private driver and guide to get around as it can make access to religious sites easier and offer a wonderful insight into south Indian culture, as well as expert knowledge on local history, architecture and wildlife.

ANDHRA PRADESH

Chikmagalur Belur

Halebid Hassan

Coorg

Mysore

Coonoor

ea 161 kilometres

Chidambaram

Coimbatore Trichy

Pollachi

Munnar 100 miles

TAMIL NADU

KERALA

Kanchipuram

Mahabalipuram

Ooty

Chennai

Bangalore

Pondicherry

Nagarhole National Park

bia Ara

Our specialists will use their detailed knowledge and your preferences to tailor an itinerary to suit. The number of temples in Tamil Nadu can be overwhelming; we will choose the most interesting, in terms of history and location, depending on the length of time you have in the region. We also know the best areas to escape to for relaxing at the end of your trip.

KARNATAKA

Cochin

Tanjore

Indira Ghandi National Park

Chettinad Madurai

Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary

Accommodation In both Karnataka and Tamil Nadu accommodation varies widely, from luxurious but business-oriented international hotels in the larger cities to simple heritage accommodation in the hills. Functional three star hotels are the norm across the temple towns of Tamil Nadu, though more characterful options are beginning to emerge. Following the success of homestays in neighbouring Kerala, some families in the border areas have opened their homes to guests. On the quickly developing Coromandel Coast an increasing number of beachfront resorts are available, while the former colonial hill stations and plantations provide some of the region’s best boutique options in heritage bungalows, where the spectacular views more than compensate for any lack of hotel-style amenities.

Trivandrum

1 Mysore A historic city with a charming faded grandeur, home to a magnificent Maharajah’s palace. See page 59

4 Chettinad Visit the ornate mansions of India’s wealthiest 19 th-century merchants. See page 62

2 Belur & Halebid Intricate carvings, wall panels and mouldings adorn these ornate medieval temples justly famous for their Hoysala art. See page 60

5 Madurai Join thousands of pilgrims at the mesmerising Meenakshi Temple for a glimpse of modern day rites and rituals. See pages 62-63

3 Blue Mountain Railway Take a magical journey through eucalyptus forests and tea plantations into the Nilgiri Mountains. See page 61

6 Pondicherry An evocative colonial town with a distinctly French air and beautiful coastal setting. See page 64

8 ANDAMAN ISLANDS

7 Mahabalipuram UNESCO-protected temples, cave sanctuaries and rock carvings give this laid-back town global importance. See pages 64-65 8 Andaman Islands Isolated but idyllic, these stunning islands offer white sands, dense forests and excellent snorkelling and diving. See page 66

www.audleytravel.com/southindia • 01993 838 355 • Tamil Nadu & Karnataka

Hindu temple decoration, Bangalore

Bangalore A rapidly expanding business hub with a dynamic and progressive population, Bangalore is one of India’s largest and wealthiest cities. It is set on a high plateau with a pleasant year-round climate, and is a booming IT and science centre that attracts the young and educated from all over the country. Chic boutiques, trendy bars and restaurants, and shopping malls open daily but at its core is a well-preserved network of tree-lined streets flanked by ornate temples, colonial-era masterpieces and regal palaces. A chaotic but vibrant place, Bangalore serves well as an insight into the modern face of India and with excellent road and rail links, makes a good city to start or end your trip.

Mövenpick Hotel & Spa, Bangalore Conveniently located between the airport and the city centre, the Mövenpick Hotel & Spa affords guests a luxury experience typical of this large Swiss chain. From the vast main reception area to the 198 rooms there is great attention to detail and excellent service on offer. The property is designed in a contemporary international style and the spacious rooms and suites are elegant and sophisticated. There’s a large gym and spa, an outdoor pool and a choice of a sports bar, Art Deco lounge or the Sky Brew rooftop beer garden. Enjoy fresh bread from the in-house Swiss bakery, Italian classics in Mezzaluna or global cuisine in My Place.

The Taj West End, Bangalore Built in 1857 as one of Bangalore’s first hotels, The Taj West End retains the period glamour and classical style of the era as well as offering modern facilities and conveniences. The hotel is set in large mature gardens, a tranquil oasis providing 91 contemporary but classically-styled rooms and 26 suites that exude an air of understated elegance. One of Bangalore’s finest hotels, this charming property is ideally located close to the city centre and boasts a beautiful pool as well as a choice of restaurants making it an ideal option for your first or last night in India. The Taj West End, Bangalore

The Oberoi, Bangalore

The Oberoi, Bangalore Although geographically in central Bangalore, this tranquil hotel is set in extensive manicured gardens that shelter it from the hustle and bustle of the city. A large hotel offering from the renowned Oberoi chain, it offers 160 spacious rooms and suites decorated in an elegant classical style. There’s an inviting pool in the garden, a spa and well-equipped gym as well as a choice of restaurants. Enjoy contemporary Chinese, Indian, or Thai dishes served in a water garden pavilion, before relaxing with a drink on the lovely courtyard terrace of the Polo Club.

Tipu Sultan’s Summer Palace, Srirangapatnam

Local woman at the street market, Bangalore

Painted stork, Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary

City Palace, Mysore

Mysore

Srirangapatnam

One of south India’s most vibrant cities, Mysore was the capital of the Wodeyar Rajas who ruled the surrounding area for more than 500 years. Their legacy remains in the grand monuments and stately buildings that line the city streets. The centrepiece is the City Palace, one of India’s most opulent buildings, all but destroyed by fire in 1897 and later lovingly rebuilt. The palace looks most magical on Sundays and public holidays when it is illuminated by thousands of tiny light bulbs that pick out its multi-tiered silhouette against the night sky. Equally famous for its beautiful silk, sandalwood and incense, a trip around Mysore’s markets is a delight. Outside the centre you’ll find Chamundi Hills, the location of India’s largest Nandi bull statue and the city’s most important temple. Mysore is also a great base from which to visit nearby Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary, Srirangapatnam and Somnathpur.

A place of pilgrimage since the 10 th century, Srirangapatnam is an island city surrounded by the meandering waters of the Cauvery River. Just 12 kilometres from Mysore, it was the closest fortified city to the Wodeyar capital and its last line of defence. By the 18th century Haidar Ali and his son Tipu Sultan had made it the de facto capital of their kingdom. Haidar Ali was killed here in a bloody battle against the British which also left the city in ruins. The atmospheric remains of Srirangapatnam give an indication of how powerful this city once was, while the well-preserved Summer Palace of Tipu Sultan, which was left undamaged, is a wonderfully vivid affair.

Gitanjali Farm, Mysore

Nandi bull statue, Chamundi Hills

Gitanjali Farm, Mysore Just outside Mysore, at the foot of the Chamundi Hills, Gitanjali Farm is a warm and welcoming family home offering simple but comfortable accommodation. The ornate Lalitha Mahal Palace is just visible from the lovely gardens around the brick farmhouse, where four spacious rooms accommodate guests. Hosts Dalu and Muthu come from the Coorg region with its distinctive cuisine, and meals here are highly memorable. Evenings begin with a pre-dinner drink in the garden when you’ll get a chance to chat to your affable hosts and learn about local life, before sharing some delicious home-cooked food served in the garden or the charming dining room.

Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary A tranquil sanctuary best explored by boat in the early morning or late afternoon, Ranganathittu is just 18 kilometres from Mysore, making a day trip here a fantastic contrast to the city. Set on a group of rocky and wooded islands on the Cauvery River, this small bird sanctuary is a scenic place home to painted storks, kingfishers and cormorants. Although interesting at any time of year, for keen ornithologists, October and November are the best times to visit.

www.audleytravel.com/southindia • 01993 838 355 • Tamil Nadu & Karnataka

Keshava Temple, Somnathpur

Somnathpur Exquisitely beautiful and incredibly wellpreserved, the ancient Keshava Temple at Somnathpur is one of the most complete Hoysala monuments in existence. Constructed in 1268 by a Hoysala general, it was one of the last important temple complexes to be built and features three shrines, each dedicated to a different form of the god Vishnu. The walls are blanketed in intricate carvings of the Hindu pantheon and episodes from the Ramayana and other epics. As you walk around the temple you can admire the detail and composition of the meticulous carvings of myriad gods, goddesses, elephants, warriors and musicians before pondering over their meaning as you wander about the lovely gardens surrounding the complex. From Mysore, Somnathpur is an easy one and a half hour drive through lush paddy fields and rural villages.

Elephants, Nagarhole National Park

Belur, Halebid & Shravanabelagola The two remote 12th-century temple complexes at Belur and Halebid feature what is arguably the richest repository of Hindu art and sculpture in India. This region was at the heart of the Hoysala Empire and the richly decorated temple façades feature intricate stone carvings while the interiors are filled with countless filigreed pillars and friezes depicting tales from the Ramayana and the Mahabarata. Nearby, you’ll find the imposing hilltop pilgrimage site of Shravanabelagola with its unmissable sculpture of the naked Jain Saint Gomateswara. Set in a rocky outcrop and reached by 635 steps, the 18-metre-high figure is the world’s tallest monolithic sculpture.

Nagarhole National Park South India’s most impressive park and the best place to view wild elephants in the region, Nagarhole’s dense forests support a variety of wildlife from tigers and macaques to langurs and a host of exotic birds. Accessible from both Mysore and northern Kerala, visitors can explore by 4x4, coracle or motorboat. Please refer to page 88 in our Wildlife section, or speak to one of our specialists for further details.

Indian peacock, Nagarhole National Park

Coorg A remote and picturesque region ideal for walking, Coorg is home to a variety of ethnic minority groups and was an independent state until 1956. This lush region, which revolves around the market town of Madekeri, is largely agricultural with great swathes of the verdant hills given up to the cultivation of rice, coffee and spices. The plantations and the surrounding tropical forest are criss-crossed with a network of walking trails affording glorious views over the rolling hills but visitors can also enjoy fishing and golfing in the region. There are also a number of Tibetan villages scattered around Bylekuppe and the Sera Je Monastery is worth a visit if your specialist is able to obtain a permit for you.

Tea plantation, Coonoor

Local lady, Ooty

Lilys, Ooty botanical garden

Train on the Blue Mountain Railway

School Estate, Coorg

Orange County, Coorg Situated in the heart of Coorg’s hills, Orange County is surrounded by beautiful gardens and coffee plantations. The 50 cottages and villas are in clusters around the resort, each designed to give a light and airy feel. There are three restaurants and lots of romantic, private dining options. The hotel hosts a range of activities from walking trails to bicycle rides, and birdwatching by coracle. For the less active, there is a beautiful infinity pool and a specialist Ayurvedic spa.

The former home of a colonial-era missionary, the ancient bell on the veranda of this pretty bungalow reminds visitors of the wealth of history in this beautiful hillside setting. Today, the property is home to the Aiyapa family, and is set on a coffee estate and surrounded by flower-filled gardens. There are four quaint but comfortable guest rooms, all with en suite bathrooms, and furnished in a traditional style. The food is a mix of regional Coorgi recipes and international dishes and dinner is a great time to sit with your hosts and learn more about the distinctive local traditions and customs. Guests can relax in the garden with a book, have a picnic by the river or enjoy walks around the estate.

Indira Gandhi National Park A great place to get off the beaten track and simply enjoy the natural surroundings, Indira Gandhi National Park is a 958-square-kilometre tract of forest on the southern reaches of the Western Ghats. Known locally as Anamalai Sanctuary, from the Tamil meaning ‘elephant hills’, the reserve is home to wild elephants, lion-tailed macaques, Malabar giant squirrels and sambar, as well abundant birdlife. The park is best explored by 4x4, although walking is also possible in the buffer zones.

Ooty & Coonoor Refreshingly cool and understandably popular, Ooty is the most well known hill station in the Nilgiri Hills. It was established as the summer headquarters of the British Madras government in the early 19 th century with all the essential elements of civilised society including tennis, golf and horse riding. The town sits at an altitude of 2,286 metres and is a major tea growing region as well as a favourite place for locals and visitors to escape the heat of the plains. Nearby Coonoor is a quieter hill station with its own botanical garden and a superb selection of country walks. Lamb’s Rock, a spectacular viewpoint, offers sweeping views down the slopes to the central plains. The most scenic way to reach the hill stations is to take a trip on the wonderfully nostalgic Blue Mountain Railway. Built by the British and completed in 1908, it is one of the oldest and steepest rack and pinion railways in operation. The 45 kilometre journey between Mettupalayam and Ooty winds its way into the hills passing through abandoned stations, numerous tunnels, and bridges on what is a slow but spectacular four hour journey. A steam locomotive pushes passengers for the majority of the journey with a diesel train completing the steeper sections.

Orange County, Coorg

www.audleytravel.com/southindia • 01993 838 355 • Tamil Nadu & Karnataka

Mansion courtyard, Chettinad

Chettinad Once home to some of India’s wealthiest merchants, the small towns and villages of the Chettinad region are home to many temples and exquisitely decorated Nattukottai, the traditional and highly ornate familial homes of the region. The crumbling grandeur of these ancient mansions gives the region a charming, old-world appeal that makes an interesting contrast to the temple towns of Tamil Nadu. Wonderful carved wooden doors conceal vast courtyards and rooms adorned with brightly coloured carvings and huge teak pillars. Along with the atmospheric architecture, this is a good region to explore the local bazaars and markets and visit some of the many artisans who work here. Most evident however, is the renowned local cuisine, wonderfully spicy and aromatic and especially famous for its delicious sweets such as payasam and paal paniyaram.

Visalam, Chettinad

The Bangala, Chettinad A perfect place from which to explore the towns and villages surrounding Karaikuddi, The Bangala, a Tamil pronunciation of ‘bungalow’, was built by a Chettiar trader over 70 years ago. This beautiful house remains in the same family and offers 12 guest rooms with plenty of local character. Simple but comfortable and decorated with antique furnishings and old family photographs. The house is surrounded by a small, colourful garden with an inviting pool and an outdoor dining area where you can sample the distinctive local food.

Visalam, Chettinad Get a glimpse of life in a Chettinad mansion at this beautifully restored village property just 16 kilometres from Karaikuddi, the main town of Chettinad. The house dates from the 1930s and features Art Deco detailing as well as colonial and south Indian influences. There are 15 spacious rooms furnished in period style with antique furniture, traditional plasterwork and modern en suite bathrooms. A stay here exudes grandeur and guests can try art forms such as rangoli rice powder painting, stick dancing and flower garland making. There’s a lovely pool in the gardens and the restaurant serves local dishes with guests welcomed into the interactive kitchen to learn cookery skills.

The Bangala, Chettinad

Madurai An ancient city home to one of the greatest temples in India, Madurai is a temple town like no other. The city’s recorded history extends back over 2,000 years with the Greeks and Romans writing of its splendour. At its centre is the enormous Meenakshi Temple which was built at the same time as the Taj Mahal and is an outstanding example of south Indian Hindu architecture. The temple is still in use today and below its nine magnificent gopurams (entrance towers) pilgrims and priests take part in ceremonies, processions and blessings. A temple elephant gives blessings and on Fridays, the sacred day, the place erupts into a riot of colour and activity. Meenakshi Temple is almost a city in itself but beyond its walls you’ll find the interesting Gandhi Museum which chronicles the life of the great Indian leader, as well as markets and faded palaces.

Meenakshi Temple, Madurai

Brihadishwara Temple, Tanjore

Rock Fort Temple, Trichy

Rajakkad Estate, near Madurai

Heritage Madurai, Madurai A Madurai favourite, this beautiful building designed by renowned Sri Lankan architect Geoffrey Bawa has been converted into a luxurious hotel with an air of refined elegance. Although modern in its design, it reflects vernacular style and makes use of many local and reclaimed materials such as decorative pillars salvaged from derelict houses, slabs from an abandoned mill and honey-coloured stone cut from the nearby hills. The 64 rooms are generously proportioned with spacious bathrooms, while the villas are quite palatial in size and have private plunge pools. All are decorated in contemporary style and the choice of accommodation means that this lovely hotel suits a range of budgets. There’s also a large sunken pool in the garden.

Rajakkad Estate, near Madurai Nestled in the lush forests and coffee estates of the Palani Hills, Rajakkad Estate is set high in the foothills of the Western Ghats in an area that has changed little over the last century. At the heart of the estate is Pallam Palace, a wooden 18 th-century house with a rich architectural heritage. Now a small garden hotel with just seven individually-styled rooms, it is 50 kilometres from the closest town and a wonderful option for those seeking peace and tranquillity. The rooms here are stylish but deliberately simple in their decor with the odd splash of colour or carefully-chosen piece of furniture. There’s a restaurant serving delicious food made from ingredients sourced on the estate farm, a wide range of birdlife to observe in the garden, and a choice of walking trails leading across the estate to the coffee-drying yards and the village beyond.

Tanjore

Heritage Madurai, Madurai

Capital of the great Chola Empire in its heyday and still an important cultural centre today, Tanjore is best known for its numerous temples. At its heart lies the breathtaking 1,000-year-old Brihadishwara or ‘Big Temple’ built by King Rajaraja I and dedicated to the god Shiva. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, its massive gopurams are covered in elaborate stucco figures while inside, a columned hall

Vegetable market, Madurai

leads to the 60-metre-high inner temple which is decorated with a pantheon on Hindu deities. You’ll also find the Rajaraja Museum and Art Gallery here with its fine Chola bronzes and a number of interesting ancient manuscripts and drawings.

Trichy A bustling modern city, Trichy is built around its Rock Fort Temple, an unmissable local landmark that perches above the city on a large rocky outcrop. The temple is reached by a series of steps but the fort itself is less impressive than the superb views afforded by its lofty position. On a nearby river island at Srirangam you’ll find the magnificent Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple, one of India’s largest with 49 separate shrines and seven elaborate gopurams. A vast place, it is enclosed by seven concentric walls which in turn define different residential areas for each local caste. Head to the roof for a sense of the scale of this incredible place and for the best views of the brightly painted temple towers with their intricate and sometimes grotesque figures. Follow your visit with a stroll along the riverbanks where locals make offerings or hold ceremonies. Trichy is situated in the heart of Tamil Nadu and makes a worthwhile stop en route to Tanjore.

www.audleytravel.com/southindia • 01993 838 355 • Tamil Nadu & Karnataka

Krishna's Butter Ball, Mahabalipuram

Palais de Mahe, Pondicherry

Church, Pondicherry

Pondicherry Under French rule until 1954, Pondicherry retains a distinctly Gallic atmosphere and a quaint colonial vibe. In the old town along the seafront subtly coloured period houses with shuttered windows line the streets and men play boules in tree-lined squares. You’ll also find restored Tamil merchants’ houses and a beautiful promenade with a statue of Gandhi. This tranquil setting has attracted a range of artists and craftspeople over the years which gives the city a slightly bohemian atmosphere, a reflection perhaps of one of the world’s most unique communities which is located just outside the city. Auroville, an elaborate experiment in sustainable living, began in 1968 and has almost 2,500 residents who work towards peace and unity and run a range of projects from renewable energy to organic farming.

Conveniently located for exploring both the French and Tamil quarters of Pondicherry, the Palais de Mahe is built in traditional colonial style with the warm yellow and white plasterwork that is typical of the town. Inside, high ceilings, exposed beams, arched doorways and period charm combine to create a very tranquil, fuss-free environment. The 18 rooms are similarly styled and feature largely antique furniture but modern bathrooms. There’s a large swimming pool by the colonnaded terrace, an Ayurvedic spa and a restaurant serving wonderful seafood and south Indian dishes.

Mahabalipuram

Palais de Mahe, Pondicherry

Fishermen, Mahabalipuram

A laid-back town on the Coromandel Coast, Mahabalipuram is home to a large collection of UNESCO-protected temples and sanctuaries carved out from the local rock by the Pallava kings. The town was the Pallava’s second city during its heyday from the 5th to 8th centuries, and the kings became patrons of early Tamil culture. The Shore Temple with its interesting sculptures, and Arjuna’s Penance, one of the world’s largest bas reliefs, are highlights but you can also see cave sanctuaries and rathas (temples in the form of chariots) as well as a natural attraction affectionately known as Krishna’s Butter Ball, a giant boulder hanging precariously on a rocky hillside.

Sacred art & architecture

Kailasanathar Temple, Kanchipuram

For thousands of years successive south Indian rulers demonstrated their wealth and influence by funding the construction of elaborate religious structures, and Tamil Nadu in particular is awash with sacred art and architecture. Early temples were cut directly from the rock but as construction techniques evolved the temples became more elaborate, generally built from stone, and adorned with iconography that conformed to strict rules based on cosmology. Each temple is dedicated to a sacred deity but with varying methods and styles of decoration, no two are the same. For many, medieval Chola bronze figures represent the finest examples of sacred art, and the breathtaking 1,000-year-old Brihadishwara Temple in Tanjore is a fine

Chennakeshava Temple, Belur

Ganesh statue, Halebid Temple

place to see them. Another extraordinary example of religious architecture, the magnificent Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple in Srirangam is one of India’s largest and elaborately decorated with brightly coloured figures. In Madurai, the enormous Meenakshi Temple is thronged with pilgrims and a riot of colour and activity, while the 12th and 13th-century Hoysala temples seen at Somnathpur, Belur and Halebid represent one of the richest collections of Hindu art and sculpture in India. One of India’s most famous monuments however, is the intricate Mysore Palace, the iconic seat of the Maharajahs of Mysore.

Morning meditation, Kanchipuram

Kanchipuram

Vivanta by Taj Fisherman’s Cove, near Mahabalipuram Built around the ramparts of a Dutch Fort, Fisherman’s Cove is one of the most luxurious beach resorts in Tamil Nadu. A modern place, it still manages to reflect local charm and character and has 88 air-conditioned rooms and cottages scattered around the tropical gardens or overlooking the Bay of Bengal. All are decorated in a minimalist Scandinavian style and the spacious cottages have an outdoor seating area and open-air garden showers. There are three restaurants to choose from serving a variety of dishes, although fresh local seafood is a highlight here. Fisherman’s Cove is located roughly halfway between Chennai and Mahabalipuram.

Radisson Blu Resort Temple Bay, Mahabalipuram

The Pallava capital from the 6th to the 8 th centuries, Kanchipuram is one of India’s seven Hindu holy cities, full of temples from that time and the later Chola dynasty. Some are still in use and attract throngs of worshippers performing puja rituals every day. The most famous of the town’s sights is Kailasanathar Temple, its oldest structure, with its intricate carvings and 58 small shrines. Kanchipuram is also an important centre for silk production with families across the town and in the surrounding villages creating colourful fabrics on hand looms. The delicate saris and shawls created here are sold in many shops in the town and worn throughout India. Kanchipuram can easily be visited from Chennai or Mahabalipuram.

A large, international hotel overlooking Mahabalipuram’s Shore Temple, the Radisson offers surprisingly characterful rooms in a resort packed with modern facilities. On top of this you’ll be within easy walking distance of Mahabalipuram’s sights and have access to a sandy beach. The hotel is set in extensive landscaped gardens and the 144 rooms vary in style, from rustic sea-view chalets to sophisticated studio suites with private Jacuzzis, and the pool-view suites which feature silk throws and carved granite artworks. There’s a choice of pools as well as a small spa and a variety of restaurants. Vivanta by Taj Fisherman’s Cove

Drying silk yarn, Kanchipuram

www.audleytravel.com/southindia • 01993 838 355 • Tamil Nadu & Karnataka

Fruit and fish stall, Chennai

Chennai Although it is India’s fourth largest city, Chennai is somehow less overwhelming than its peers. It’s noisy and chaotic, but also a friendly place where local life seems more accessible. Just walk on the long beach in the early morning or evening to watch kite flying, hawkers and families, alternatively tour the fish markets or try some street food. The city grew from a small British settlement, eventually embracing surrounding villages and a neighbouring Portuguese settlement. Its old town of Fort St George is home to some fabulous Indo-Saracenic architecture, a beautiful neo-Gothic cathedral and the ornate Kapaleeswarar Temple.

Vivanta by Taj Connemara, Chennai Chennai’s only heritage hotel was built in 1854, remodelled in the 1930s when many Art Deco details were added, and then later extended by Geoffrey Bawa, the famous Sri Lankan architect. A historic but also an extremely charming building, it combines an old-world ambience with modern facilities. The 145 rooms and four suites are decorated in a contemporary style and have high ceilings and spacious living areas, but the premium indulgence rooms have more colonial character. The hotel is located in the heart of the city, with a spa, pool, fitness centre, and a choice of contemporary restaurants.

Barefoot Resort, Havelock Island

Vivanta by Taj Connemara, Chennai

Andaman Islands One thousand kilometres off India’s east coast lie a string of idyllic islands fringed by white sands and surrounded by pristine coral reefs teeming with marine life. The Andaman Islands are India’s hidden paradise, their remoteness a barrier to mass tourism but their stunning natural beauty and incredible wildlife a spectacular reward for those who make it here. There are about 300 islands in total but only a few are open to travellers. Rare birds, elusive dugongs and kaleidoscopic corals await and the snorkelling and diving are simply superb.

An eco-friendly retreat set in pristine forest on the edge of a white sandy beach, Barefoot Resort is a tropical island escape. There are 25 tents, cottages and villas here constructed by local craftsmen from indigenous materials such as bamboo, wood and palm leaves. Accommodation varies widely from simple tented cottages to the stylish Nicobari villas, but all rooms are spacious with modern amenities and en suite bathrooms. The resort adheres to principles of sustainable and socially responsible tourism with local staff and eco-initiatives such as rainwater harvesting. Guests can begin their day with a yoga class then follow up with diving, fishing, kayaking or escorted nature walks. Barefoot Resort is the only Andaman hotel Audley recommends as other options are very basic, so it is a good idea to book well in advance if you would like to stay here.

The islands are part of India but geographically closer to Myanmar and Thailand. Flights from Calcutta and Chennai land at Port Blair, the islands’ administrative centre, where an overnight stay is usually necessary before travelling on to your resort. Barefoot Resort, Havelock Island

Suggested itineraries Tailoring your trip

Halebid Chennai

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a flavour of what is possible, and are routes that work particularly well. We can use these as a basis to plan your trip or can design a completely different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests. Call one of our South India specialists to start planning your itinerary.

Mahabalipuram Pondicherry

Trichy Madurai

Cochin

T 01993 838 355

Belur

Hassan

Coorg

Bangalore

Mysore

Nagarhole National Park

Sultan’s Battery Ooty

Indira Gandhi National Park

Pollachi

Tanjore Chettinad

Madurai Backwaters

Getting around There are regular international flights into Bangalore and Chennai from where it is possible to transfer to domestic flights to regional airports. However, most onward journeys can be undertaken by road and are generally more rewarding. We recommend having a private driver and guide throughout your trip, who will plan scenic journeys between destinations, stopping en route at places of interest. Passes in the Western Ghats allow for road crossings into the neighbouring state of Kerala in the west, and there are also trains from Bangalore to Mysore. Travel in the hills can be slow – only at walking pace on the Blue Mountain Railway – but the spectacular views on this historic route should not be missed.

When to go Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun

33 33 33

Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

South India Explored

A culturally rich and rewarding journey across south India, this itinerary combines the historical highlights of Tamil Nadu with time in Kerala.

This comprehensive itinerary offers an overview of south India’s cultural and natural treasures with visits to temples, ancient palaces and colonial gems as well as several days exploring the region’s national parks and sanctuaries.

Day 1

Fly overnight to Chennai.

Day 2

Explore the stunning temples, sanctuaries and rock sculptures of Mahabalipuram.

Day 3

Day 4

South India suffers more than the north from the summer monsoon (June, sometimes July through to October) which brings torrential rainfall and makes travel difficult. From November to May it is mainly dry (although Tamil Nadu can still experience rainstorms) with temperatures between 28C and 35C (82F and 95F), but becomes more humid in April and May. The far south and the Andaman Islands are at their best between January and March.

Day 6

Drive to Chettinad via Trichy and climb to the top of the Rock Temple.

Day 7

Step into the past and explore Chettinad’s abandoned but richly decorated mansion houses.

Day 8

Day 9

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices for your trip to Tamil Nadu and Karnataka on our website, alternatively please call our specialists to discuss your plans.

Head to Madurai and join the thousands of pilgrims in the Meenakshi Temple. Cross the Western Ghats into Kerala and spend the afternoon on a coffee estate.

Day 1

Fly overnight to Bangalore.

Day 2

Afternoon guided tour of Mysore and the eclectic City Palace.

Day 3

Visit the Ranganthittu Bird Sanctuary before exploring the ruined city of Srirangapatnam and Tipu Sultan’s Summer Palace.

Day 4

Drive to Hassan visiting the giant Jain statue at Shravanabelagola and the temples at Belur and Halebid.

Day 5

Ascend into the hills of the Coorg region.

Day 6

Enjoy the mountain scenery with a walk through the plantations.

Days 7-8 Explore Nagarhole National Park with a 4x4 or boat safari. Days 9-10 Final morning game drive before transferring to Sultan’s Battery, where you can relax or visit the prehistoric Edakal caves. Day 11

Arrive at the backwaters and watch the world go by from your accommodation on the water’s edge.

Head to the hill station of Ooty and enjoy views from the Blue Mountain Railway.

Day 12

Day 11

Drive to Alleppey and board your converted rice barge for a cruise along the backwaters.

Get off the beaten track in Pollachi for an afternoon of bird spotting in Indira Gandhi National Park.

Day 13

Day 12

Disembark your houseboat and drive to Cochin for a guided tour of the fort.

Descend to Madurai to explore the stunning Meenakshi Temple.

Day 14

Explore vibrant markets by cycle rickshaw before flying to Bangalore.

Day 15

Connect with your international flight.

Day 10

Time difference: GMT+5.5 hours

Prices

Continue to Tanjore stopping to visit temples and admire their sacred art en route. Explore Tanjore with your guide including the staggering ‘Big Temple’.

Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year.

5 Travel is not recommended.

Drive south to Pondicherry for a guided tour of the colonial quarter and a visit to bohemian Auroville.

Day 5

33 33

33 The best time to travel. 3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.

Temples and Backwaters

Day 13

Transfer to the airport to connect with your international flight.

Stay longer

Explore some more of Tamil Nadu’s numerous temples for a more comprehensive overview of the differing styles. Alternatively, hop on a plane to the blissful Andaman Islands.

Spend more time in the beautiful Western Ghats to explore the many trails and discover the wonderful wildlife of the region.

www.audleytravel.com/southindia • 01993 838 355 • Tamil Nadu & Karnataka

Kerala O

ne of India’s most beautiful states, Kerala is fringed by sandy beaches to the west and the cool, lush mountains of the Western Ghats to the east. In between lies a network of meandering backwaters, verdant rice paddies and spice plantations renowned for their languid charm and natural beauty. An intoxicating place that seems a world apart from the colourful chaos in other states, the unhurried pace of life here is gloriously relaxing, making this an ideal place to sit back and unwind. Although Kerala may be short on historical monuments, this state more than makes up for it with a rich culture, strong arts heritage and fascinating festivals. The people here are warm and welcoming, the food is superb and accommodation options are some of the most memorable in the country – it’s no wonder the locals call it ‘God’s own country’. Whether you explore the colonial charm of Fort Cochin, ramble along the backwaters in a houseboat, track wild elephants, laze on a beach or enjoy some wonderful walking in the hills, Kerala is a feast for both the soul and the senses.

Audley in Kerala Kerala’s natural beauty, welcoming people and laid-back vibe make it a popular destination, although it continues to maintain its original charm and character. From the quieter backwater spots in the north to the best beaches and recommending how to spend your free time, our specialists know the state inside-out; including all the people who ensure you are well looked after from the moment you arrive. For some, Kerala is perfect for relaxation, perhaps after exploring another part of India, either on the beach, a houseboat or getting to know the local pace of life staying in a homestay. For others, it’s ideal for exploring; from walking in the tea hills, soaking up the historic sites in Fort Cochin or searching for elephants in Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary.

Neeleshwar

KARNATAKA

Sultan's Battery

Tellicherry

Ooty Calicut

ian Arab

LAKSHADWEEP ISLANDS

Coimbatore

Palakkad TAMIL

Sea

Throughout Kerala accommodation is varied, however, the backbone of the region are its small, boutique properties built in the vernacular style. Providing a highly personal stay and a warm welcome, they range from simple guesthouses to colonial bungalows and converted houseboats. In Kerala’s relaxed cities and in the lush tea hills you’ll find heritage hotels set in colonial-era properties that offer charming period living with modern amenities. Elsewhere, the features of traditional Keralan tharavads (homesteads) such as wooden pillars and decorated doors with brass locks have been incorporated into the design of boutique hotels, and rice barges have been tastefully converted into houseboats which provide a unique way to explore the backwaters. To truly get an insight into life in this region, opt for a homestay. If you would prefer a larger property with more facilities, options range from eco-friendly resorts to luxurious, modern hotels with international standards and styling.

Nilgiri Hills KERALA

Thattekad Bird Sanctuary Cochin Marari Alleppey

Kumarakom Kottayam

Agatti Kavaratti 0

50 miles

80 kilometres

2 Munnar A former colonial hill station in the stunning tea-covered Nilgiri Hills, Munnar is the perfect base for leisurely walking. See page 71

Munnar

Thekkady Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary Cardamom Hills

Trivandrum

1 Fort Cochin A serene and wonderfully atmospheric city where the crumbling grandeur of Portuguese, Dutch and British colonialists lines the narrow back streets. See page 70

NADU

Western Ghats

1 Bangaram

Accommodation

Cauv er y

Kovalam

Homestays Experience the warm hospitality for which the region is famous and get a glimpse of everyday family life. See pages 74-75

Backwaters Kerala’s lifeblood, these rivers, canals and lagoons support a bucolic lifestyle best discovered from a traditional houseboat. See page 76

Cuisine Keralan cuisine is rich and complex in flavour but easily discovered on a cookery course or demonstration. See page 73

Beaches With a long, palm-fringed coastline, Kerala’s beaches make a perfect place to relax and unwind. Ayurveda A wonderfully indulgent way to relax, try a traditional, holistic herbal massage or take a course of treatment for improved health and well-being.

www.audleytravel.com/kerala • 01993 838 355 • Kerala

Chinese fishing nets, Cochin

Cochin The spice trade brought Chinese, Roman, Portuguese, Syrian and Muslim traders to Cochin for hundreds of years and in their wake the Dutch and British, all keen to make their fortune and lay their mark on the wealthy state. Today, Cochin is a serene and atmospheric city, set on a series of islands and promontories linked by bridges. Its colonial treasures cluster around old Fort Cochin, an area lined with the mansions of wealthy spice traders and tea brokers, the churches, synagogues and mosques of the faithful, and a host of colourful shops, galleries and cafes. On the waterfront ingenious Chinese fishing nets are fixed to the shore and fishermen show off their daily catch. Cochin is the main entry point to the state for most visitors and a wonderful place to spend a few days strolling the pleasant streets, taking a sunset cruise around the harbour or experiencing Kathakali dance theatre, a vibrant local tradition.

Eighth Bastion, Cochin

Old Harbour Hotel, Cochin One of Cochin’s most stylish accommodation options, the Old Harbour is set in a 300-year-old mansion built in Dutch colonial style. There are just 13 tranquil rooms and suites in this charming heritage hotel, all with high ceilings, hardwood floors and beautiful antique furniture. The decor is simple and restrained with four-poster beds in the suites and open-air showers in the garden cottages. Set around a series of fountain-filled courtyards, the building is decorated with contemporary Indian and Sri Lankan art and also features a gorgeous pool and spa. The hotel is located close to Fort Cochin’s harbour front and fresh seafood is a highlight on the menu, though there are many other dining options close by if you wish to explore.

Eighth Bastion, Cochin A small, modern property combining contemporary interiors with colonial style, Eighth Bastion has a convenient location in the heart of Fort Cochin. The 19 spacious rooms here are bright and modern with air-conditioning and private balconies as well as excellent bathrooms. Guests can relax around the pool in the central courtyard or enjoy a convivial drink here in the evenings before a meal in the sophisticated restaurant serving traditional regional dishes in a modern style.

Old Harbour Hotel, Cochin

Brunton Boatyard, Cochin Set in a former Victorian-era boatyard, this charming hotel exudes an air of 19 th-century refinement from its setting right on the waterfront of Cochin’s old town. The generous communal areas and 26 guest rooms feature high ceilings and an eclectic mix of antiques and curios with British, Portuguese and Dutch themes. Enjoy a cookery demonstration on the terrace, a treatment in the spa, or a dip in the pool. The hotel’s main restaurant has an excellent reputation and serves a menu of fusion foods that reflect the many nationalities that once called Cochin home.

Brunton Boatyard, Cochin

Kathakali performer, Cochin

Tea plantations, Munnar

Ambady Estate, Munnar

Freshly picked tea, Munnar

Fisherman drinking tea, Cochin

Munnar

Windermere Estate, Munnar

Home to some of the world’s highest tea growing estates, Munnar is a former British hill station where clipped tea plants blanket the slopes and mist often clings to the hillsides. The town is located in the Western Ghats at an altitude of 1,524 metres and the weather here is refreshingly cool and ideal for walking. With superb views and a host of trails, you can take leisurely strolls or full day hikes to discover this lush region. A trip to the town’s tea museum reveals the history of the area and explains how tea was first introduced and cultivated here. Munnar is easily accessible from both Cochin and Periyar as well as Madurai in Tamil Nadu.

Ambady Estate, Munnar Conveniently located just outside Munnar, this small property offers simple accommodation in a series of eight spacious bungalows. The split level interiors feature a living area as well as a bedroom with timber ceilings, comfortable furniture and rustic decor. With friendly hosts and excellent service, this is a good base for walking in the local area with a large cardamom plantation on the doorstep and pepper, coffee and tropical fruit growing in the grounds. The restaurant is built from a variety of natural materials found on the estate and serves hearty local food.

Casa Del Fauno, Munnar

Casa Del Fauno, Munnar Set in a remote location surrounded by a tea estate and cardamom plantation, Casa del Fauno has just seven large rooms and offers peace and tranquillity as well as incredible views. Meals are served in the charming dining room with traditional recipes dominating the set menu. Outside, the garden provides views of mist-shrouded hills stretching into the distance and, if you’d like to explore, your host can guide you along trails in the surrounding area for an insight into the history of the region. Casa del Fauno is located an hours’ scenic drive along winding roads from Munnar.

Exuding an easy old-world charm of days gone by, Windermere Estate is a warm and relaxed country retreat that has long been an Audley favourite. The property is just a short drive from Munnar and is surrounded by rolling tea hills and set in extensive grounds where you’ll find pepper trees and cardamom plants. A series of traditional bungalows around the main house contain the 18 guestrooms. Expect high ceilings with exposed beams, handmade teak or maple beds, lovingly embroidered linens, framed cross-stitch art and stunning views. Meals are served in the dining room in the main house where you can share stories with other guests or retire to the tranquil reading room. A local naturalist guides informative afternoon walks from the estate, which provides a breathtaking 360 degree view from a lookout point.

Windermere Estate, Munnar

www.audleytravel.com/kerala • 01993 838 355 • Kerala

Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary

Thekkady & Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary A popular resort and spice trading town, Thekkady is a good base for exploring the surrounding spice plantations as well as the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary. A guided plantation walk is an excellent way to learn about crops such as pepper and nutmeg and how they are grown and harvested. Periyar by comparison is far wilder, a place of steep hills and dense vegetation where elephants, gaur and deer roam freely. An early morning walk is highly rewarding as the forest comes to life with the calls of birds and monkeys, though a longer day trek may be needed to spot larger mammals. Alternatively, take a boat trip on Lake Periyar to see animals drinking at the water’s edge.

Shalimar Spice Garden, Periyar Constructed in the style of a jungle lodge with thatched roofs, wide verandas and a canopy of lush vegetation, Shalimar Spice Garden is a tranquil, rural retreat close to Periyar. There are 18 rooms and cottages, individually decorated in a simple, modern style which fuses traditional Indian concepts with Western comforts. Each has a terrace overlooking the gardens where a variety of birds can be spotted. There’s a pool and an Ayurvedic centre, while the restaurant serves a range of Indian and continental dishes made using spices from the garden. 72

Spice Village, Periyar

The Wildernest, Periyar

The Wildernest, Periyar A modest but comfortable bed and breakfast with extremely spacious rooms and personal service, The Wildernest is a great base for exploring Periyar. Exposed stone and brick, tiled floors and fresh colour schemes lend the ten rooms some local character and each has its own private terrace or garden to relax in. Although breakfast is the only meal served here, The Wildernest is just a two minute walk from the town of Kumily with its selection of hotels and restaurants and staff are happy to offer advice on where to eat.

Shalimar Spice Garden, Periyar

The use of natural materials, from elephant grass roofing to locally crafted furniture, give the Spice Village a very simple, elegant charm that allows it to blend seamlessly with its surroundings. The 52 guest rooms and cottages are scattered across the hillside grounds. There is a choice of restaurants with all produce sourced from the local area, as well as evening cookery classes should you wish to learn how to recreate the dishes on offer. Guests can also enjoy the pool and Ayurvedic centre, talks on wildlife, guided walks through the spice garden, and paper-making courses. Best of all though, it’s just 500 metres to Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary.

Serenity, Vazhoor A former planter’s home built in the 1920s and surrounded by rubber estates and spice gardens, Serenity lives up to its name and provides a charming place to relax and unwind. This lovely heritage hotel has six guest rooms decorated with period furniture, local curios and modern artworks. All rooms have a private veranda and guests can also relax by the pool, in the spa or yoga pavilion. Guided walks, cycling tours and cooking demonstrations are available. Guests dine together in the dining room or on the outdoor terrace. Serenity is three hours by car from Periyar.

Spice Village, Periyar

Serenity, Vazhoor

Elephant, Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary

Fishermen on Bekal Beach, near Neeleshwar

Bekal Fort, near Neeleshwar

Neeleshwar Hermitage, Neeleshwar

Nilgiri langur, Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary

Neeleshwar Kerala’s unspoilt northern coast is less-visited and less-developed than the south and exudes a wonderful laid-back charm. Neeleshwar, with its small shops, mosque and colourful temple still serves the needs of the local fishing community more than those of any traveller and offers an authentic insight into rural life in the region. The beautiful beaches here remain quiet and undisturbed and traditional culture thrives in a series of colourful festivals. Two of the finest celebrations are Theyyam, the ‘dance of the gods’, which is performed at local temples by elaborately dressed and made-up dancers, and the Snake Festival where the central performers are women from the local fishing communities. Just to the north of Neeleshwar on a promontory into the Arabian Sea are the ruins of Bekal Fort which make an interesting trip.

This luxurious retreat set right on a long, unspoilt beach is a beautiful place to unwind. The 16 spacious rooms are in thatched cottages, modelled on fishermen’s huts but built by master craftsmen. High ceilings and teak floors combine with handmade furniture and original art in a stylish but unfussy way, while the bathrooms are beautiful, partly open to the skies and with solar-powered showers. A large infinity pool overlooks the beach and Ayurvedic spa treatments, yoga and meditation are all available. The hotel has two restaurants as well as running a series of cultural programmes and cookery classes. The owners also operate their own luxury houseboat which plies the quiet northern backwaters should you wish to explore further.

Keralan Cuisine The aromatic food for which the region is so well-known has been influenced by years of trading and the plethora of fresh produce growing right on its doorstep, making it arguably some of the best food in the country. Coconut, rice and a whole gamut of spices, from pepper and cloves to cardamom, ginger and cinnamon, give most dishes their distinctive flavour, with fish from both the ocean and the backwaters providing a change from traditional vegetarian options. A visit to any local market unearths a bounty of ingredients best sampled in the presence of a local chef who can then guide you through a cooking demonstration or lesson to reveal the secrets of the region’s distinctive dishes.

Neeleshwar Hermitage, Neeleshwar

www.audleytravel.com/kerala • 01993 838 355 • Kerala

Local lady, Thattekad

Homestays For an authentic glimpse of family life in rural India and a taste of welcoming Keralan hospitality, nothing beats a homestay. The concept was first developed in Kerala, although its success and popularity means it has now spread right across India. Local families welcome visitors into their homes and share their meals with them, creating a very personal and highly memorable experience for travellers. Although facilities can be limited, the homestays we recommend offer guest rooms with en suite bathrooms. Depending on the property, rooms may be in the family house, in a separate annexe or in detached cottages. The food served is traditional, with local dishes often made from homegrown ingredients.

Tea plantation, Wayanad

Tranquil Hideaway, Wayanad

Shopping with Moosa from Ayesha Manzil, Tellicherry

Wayanad Remote and unspoilt, mountainous Wayanad is Keralaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s least populated district and one of its most beautiful. Set high in the Western Ghats in northeast Kerala, the terrain here is rugged but the steep slopes are covered with terraced paddy fields, and coffee, cocoa, cardamom and pepper plantations. Wide open panoramas offer gorgeous views of tiered hills strung with ribbons of early morning mist, and the travellers who make it here are rewarded with wonderful walking along ancient trade routes that spread from the high mountains to the coast. Along one of these routes youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find the fascinating prehistoric Edakkal Caves with their rare Stone Age petroglyphs. Alternatively, take a jeep safari in Muthanga Wildlife Sanctuary where spotted deer, wild boar, gaur and a variety of birdlife are commonly seen. A biodiversity hotspot, this transition zone between the northern and southern Western Ghats is home to over 500 bird species and 139 mammals.

Offering hotel quality service but the intimacy of a homestay, Tranquil is an Audley favourite where hosts Ajay and Nisha welcome guests as part of their extended family. The house is built in traditional style and set in a large coffee plantation, with an annexe providing eight spacious and comfortable guest rooms. There are also two wonderful tree houses, perched high above the ground and offering panoramic views of the surrounding valley. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a small pool in the flower-filled garden and a series of way-marked trails leading through the plantation. Meals are generally shared with the family and offer a taste of authentic local cuisine as well as the chance to learn more about the area, its history and the challenges it faces today.

Tranquil Hideaway, Wayanad

Arriving at Dewalokam, Kodikulam

Sri Lanka frogmouth, Thattekad Bird Sanctuary

Tellicherry Kerala’s unspoilt northern coast was once the thriving centre of the spice trade and Tellicherry played a significant role in India’s history during colonial days. The imposing town fort was built by the British in 1708 to protect their assets and its massive walls and carved doors are a reminder of the strategic importance this town once held. Tellicherry is now far quieter, the rowdy fish market being the most vibrant part of town. Flanked by a long beach ideal for leisurely walks, though not so good for swimming, visitors can also enjoy watching local weavers at work on their ancient handlooms, and bedi, the local cigarettes, being made by hand. Between November and March energetic Theyyam dances involving elaborate costumes and colourful masks are performed at local Hindu temples.

Thattekad Bird Sanctuary One of the richest bird habitats in India, this small reserve is home to 270 species of birds in its 25 square kilometres. Thattekad Bird Sanctuary covers a region of evergreen low-land forest woven with small streams and tributaries of the Periyar River. A bird lover’s haven, rare species such as the mottled wood owl, spot-bellied eagle owl, Malayan night heron, Sri Lanka frogmouth and the Nilgiri wood pigeon can be seen here. The sanctuary is also home to an interesting variety of other wildlife including elephants, sambar and deer, macaques, wild boar, giant squirrels and the rare Travancore flying squirrel.

Ayesha Manzil, Tellicherry

Ayesha Manzil, Tellicherry Step back in time and enjoy the faded grandeur of colonial living at this British cinnamon planter’s mansion filled with antiques and family heirlooms. There are six guest rooms at this homestay, full of charm and character and harking back to days gone by, although for some, perhaps a little too authentic. The house overlooks the Indian Ocean and has its own pool but the real joy here is the warm welcome and the delicious food. Host Moosa and his wife Faiza share their love of great produce and spicy Mopillah cuisine, and Faiza is happy to offer guests the chance to learn about local dishes and ingredients in her cosy kitchen.

Dewalokam, Kodikulam

Dewalokam, Kodikulam Set on an organic farm on the banks of the Kannadipuzha River, Dewalokam is a lovingly maintained and managed property that has become a firm and consistent favourite with Audley travellers. There are eight air-conditioned rooms in the main house and three further rooms in a traditional cottage in the forest, all of which are simply but elegantly decorated and have en suite bathrooms. The food here is superb, with ingredients coming from the farm, and cookery lessons are available should you wish to recreate dishes at home. Most of all though, guests feel warmly welcomed into this extended family with hosts Jose and Sinta providing real attention to detail and their dedicated local staff offering extremely friendly and attentive service. There’s a small pool on the property as well as a host of free activities including guided walks, village and school visits, or helping out on the farm to milk cows, collect honey or simply learn about the holistic way of life here.

Theyyam dancers on the beach, Tellicherry

Mundackal Plantation Homestay, Thattekad Set in a beautiful plantation home which blends colonial and Keralan architecture to great effect, this lovely homestay is a tranquil base from which to explore the local area. The four rooms are simple but comfortable and convivial owners Jose and Daisy are wonderful hosts. Daisy takes great pride in her food and is happy to offer cookery lessons to interested guests. Beautiful gardens surround the house and attract a host of exotic birds in the early morning, while beyond this, the original rubber plantation still exists and guests can learn about rubber tapping as well as pepper and coconut harvesting on guided walks. The property is within easy reach of Cochin and just 12 kilometres from Thattekad Bird Sanctuary.

Mundackal Plantation Homestay, Thattekad

www.audleytravel.com/kerala • 01993 838 355 • Kerala

Houseboats on the backwaters

Backwaters Kerala is dominated by its backwaters, a labyrinth of palm-lined rivers, canals and lagoons that lace through forests, villages, plantations and paddy fields. The lifeblood of farmers, fishermen and villagers across the state, many of these waterways lead off Lake Vembanad, and all offer a glimpse of everyday life in the area as fisherman haul in their catch, women wash pots or clothes, and schoolchildren take a canoe to class. In places, temples and churches line the banks, in quiet spots wading birds, kingfishers and fish eagles build their nests and everywhere you go life continues with a slow, unhurried charm. Drifting along the backwaters in a converted rice barge or staying in one of the many hotels in the region is a very alluring and rewarding way to travel, and although the backwaters have become much more popular in recent years, it is still possible to get away from it all to experience this unique area in all its glory.

Philip Kutty’s Farm, Backwaters

Olavipe, Backwaters The ancestral family home of a prominent Syrian-Christian family, this beautiful heritage house was built in the 1880s and retains much of its period charm. The lush greenery of Olavipe Island surrounds the house and its large estate where coconut, nutmeg and vanilla are cultivated. Explore the plantations and learn about the crops, stroll through the village or watch prawns being farmed. Alternatively, explore the backwaters with a boatman or canoe across the tranquil estate lagoon. The nine rooms here are decorated in simple, period style and the excellent food makes the most of local produce and fish.

Philip Kutty’s Farm, Backwaters A gorgeous property set on an island and accessed by canoe, Philip Kutty’s Farm is a memorable homestay offering stylish accommodation in an incredibly tranquil location. There are just five cottages here furnished with antiques and finished with beautifully carved and crafted doors and windows. Each has a private veranda overlooking the waterway, although the best views are from the covered pavilion. The property’s farm provides ingredients for the delicious meals served under an old mango tree in the small courtyard.

Olavipe, Backwaters

Kumarakom Lake Resort, Backwaters Designed and furnished in traditional Keralan style, this wonderful waterfront resort sits in landscaped gardens on the edge of Lake Vembanad. The beautiful cottages here are set between meandering canals and modelled on village homesteads but inside, their traditional heritage decor recalls an opulent period in India’s history. Many of the 59 rooms feature private courtyards and plunge pools, although there is also an infinity pool with Jacuzzi set right on the banks of the lake. Guests can make the most of ancient healing techniques at the Ayurvedic centre and enjoy the magnificent Ettukettu restaurant, which serves ethnic Keralan food as well as a broad range of international dishes. Activities include a houseboat cruise, a visit to nearby Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary, or enjoyable cultural performances such as Kathakali.

Houseboats

Kumarakom Lake Resort, Backwaters

The backwaters have been important trade routes since ancient times and traditional wooden hulled boats with thatched roofs were used to transport rice, spices and other goods around the region. Many of these traditional boats now operate as ketuvallam or houseboats, built in the original style but converted to carry passengers rather than goods. A trip on one of these houseboats is a wonderful way to explore this region with cruises lasting anything from a few hours to several days. The boats vary considerably in size and standard and generally have one or two cabins with en suite showers. Accommodation is fairly simple but the food is generally excellent with dedicated dining

Houseboat interior

and seating areas shaded by woven palm blinds and an uncovered sun deck on the bow. Cruising the backwaters has become a very popular part of a Keralan itinerary and you can expect to see quite a few boats plying the waters around the main cruising hubs. The longer your cruise, the further your boat can venture away from the busy areas to give you a taste of tranquillity.

Fishing boats on the backwaters

Houseboat on the backwaters White-throated kingfisher

Alleppey Once an important British trading post on the Malabar Coast, Alleppey is at the centre of a network of criss-crossing canals, backwaters and lagoons and is a popular staging point for departing houseboats. The town is now a centre for coir making and you’ll get the greatest sense of its illustrious past in the old quarter where the narrow streets are lined with colonial-era houses. Lord Curzon, a former Viceroy of India, once called Alleppey the ‘Venice of the East’ but today its charm lies in the relaxed pace, lively markets and numerous silk shops. The long beach is a great place for an evening stroll or a game of cricket with the locals before departing to explore the mesmerising backwaters in more detail.

M/V Vrinda, Backwaters A luxurious option for exploring the backwaters, the M/V Vrinda is an extremely well-appointed vessel operated by the renowned Oberoi hotel chain. With just eight cabins, on board service is personal and attentive, and the accommodation itself is bright and relatively spacious with large windows, teak flooring, king size beds and en suite bathrooms. A lounge and bar on the upper deck offer panoramic views while the restaurant serves a choice of international and south Indian dishes. The vessel operates a three-day cruise which allows enough time to get deep into the tranquil rural backwaters and away from the well-travelled routes. Regular stops allow passengers to see a variety of sights en route.

Vegetable seller, Alleppey

Vismaya, Backwaters A 400-year-old lakeside escape with just two bedrooms, Vismaya is the ultimate intimate retreat. Vismaya means ‘a magical place’ and this lovingly restored property certainly lives up to its name with a beautiful wooden heritage house set in manicured gardens. The rooms are spacious and bright, styled in a simple, elegant manner and feature ‘garden bathrooms’ with open-air showers. There’s a tempting pool and glorious views of the waterways but most memorable of all is the profound sense of tranquillity. The property sits close to local villages mid-way between Cochin and Alleppey. Vismaya, Backwaters

M/V Vrinda, Backwaters

www.audleytravel.com/kerala • 01993 838 355 • Kerala

Beach near Marari

Marari Set on a sliver of land between the sparkling waters of the Arabian sea and the tranquil expanse of Lake Vembanad, sleepy Marari is a small village just 11 kilometres north of Alleppey. A long stretch of sandy beach skirts the coastline with just a handful of hotels and guesthouses catering to the small number of travellers who make it here. Stretch out in a hammock and read a book or watch as traditional Keralan fishing boats come ashore, explore the quiet lanes on a bicycle or indulge in an Ayurvedic treatment. Whatever you choose to do, Marari is an idyllic place to unwind after a trip around the region.

A Beach Symphony, Marari

Marari Beach Resort, Marari A laid-back escape, Marari Beach Resort is set along a near-deserted beach and modelled on a traditional coastal village. Winding paths lead through the gardens dotted with lotus ponds to a series of whitewashed thatched cottages that offer comfortable, uncluttered accommodation. Floor-to-ceiling windows bathe the 62 rooms in light, open-air bathrooms offer a sense of the exotic and the rustic furniture lends the simple rooms a touch of local character. Several cottages come with their own pool, though all have access to the beach and the large central swimming pool. The impressive, traditionally built restaurant serves a range of local dishes with a strong emphasis on seafood supplemented with produce from the resortâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s organic garden.

Marari Beach Resort, Marari

A Beach Symphony, Marari

Abad Turtle Beach, Marari

This beautiful boutique property has just four traditionally built villas with distinctive pitched roofs, decorative archways and carved pillars edging a shaded veranda. The spacious interiors blend the best of traditional Keralan design with contemporary European style and show great attention to detail. Private gardens with swaying hammocks await, or you could venture down to the quiet beach for a stroll along the waterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s edge. Everything is set up to maximise your privacy and relaxation and meals are made to order, your chef recommending the catch or produce of the day and serving you on your veranda. 78

Abad Turtle Beach, Marari A good value option along this lovely stretch of coast, Abad Turtle Beach offers 29 comfortable cottages designed and decorated in a simple modern style with high ceilings, crisp linens and neutral colour schemes. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a lovely pool in the well-tended gardens and excellent Western and Keralan food in the open-sided restaurant. The hotel is a tranquil place to relax with good access to the beach and a warm and welcoming atmosphere however, it has fewer facilities than some of the neighbouring hotels.

Man in a canoe, Kovalam

Lady outside her shop, Kovalam

Fishermen bringing in their net, Kovalam

The Leela, Kovalam

Travancour Heritage, near Kovalam

Kovalam In contrast to Marari’s quiet sands, Kovalam is a livelier, more developed beach resort with a broad choice of hotels, restaurants and small shops. The resort is just half an hours’ drive from Trivandrum airport making it a convenient spot to relax after a trip around South India. Although it is busier than Kerala’s other coastal resorts, rather than having just one beach to choose from, there are a series of small bays divided by rocky headlands and if you walk along the shore you’ll soon leave the busier sands behind. Many of the hotels here specialise in Ayurvedic massage or yoga and offer complete health and relaxation packages that are a wonderfully mellow way to end your trip.

Set around an exquisite 120-year-old palace adorned with decorative timbers, Travancour Heritage brings new life to vintage Kerala in a series of traditional buildings rescued and rebuilt around the landscaped grounds. This atmospheric property sits high on a cliff overlooking the ocean and offers 90 rooms and villas which represent good value for money. Choose from beautiful free-standing villas with private pools, charming heritage cottages or more modern accommodation blocks with simple, comfortable furnishings. The main restaurant overlooks the pool and offers a good choice of dishes with local flavours and seafood is a speciality. You’ll also find a beachside grill and a separate Ayurveda restaurant. Travancour Heritage sits above Chowara Beach, 20 minutes from Kovalam.

The Leela, Kovalam A sleek and sophisticated option located on a headland above Kovalam, The Leela is luxurious and has excellent facilities. The 182 rooms are contemporary in style with chic furnishings and some subtle local touches. Each has a private sundeck or terrace and many have ocean views. The property sits in extensive grounds and has its own sandy cove for guest use as well as an inviting infinity pool. There is a choice of refined dining options, as well as a spa, library lounge and living room.

Vivanta by Taj, Kovalam North of Kovalam on a quieter stretch of beach, this resort stretches across a lush hillside and offers a varied choice of accommodation that blends traditional charm with modern style. The 59 hillside cottages are set in Balinese-style landscaped gardens with colourful exotic plants, water features and traditional sculptures. Thatched with elephant grass and built in a traditional style, the spacious and comfortable suites and villas blend in with their surroundings but are largely contemporary inside and have large French windows opening onto private balconies. There’s a pool, a spa and a choice of three restaurants including one on the beach which is reached by a 15 minute stroll or golf buggy transfer.

Vivanta by Taj, Kovalam

www.audleytravel.com/kerala • 01993 838 355 • Kerala

Tailoring your trip The itineraries shown are designed to give you a flavour of what is possible, and are routes that work particularly well. We can use these as a basis to plan your trip or can design a completely different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests. Call one of our South India specialists to start planning your itinerary.

T 01993 838 355

Getting around

Beach on Bangaram Island

Blue surgeonfish, Bangaram Island

Fishing off Bangaram Island

Lakshadweep Islands

Bangaram Island Resort, Lakshadweep Islands

A string of coral islands geologically connected to the Maldives, the Lakshadweep Islands sit in the Arabian Sea 300 kilometres off the Keralan coast. Fringed with powdery-white beaches and swaying palms, this remote paradise is little-developed. Only ten of the thousands of islands are inhabited and only three of these accept foreign visitors. Island life is highly traditional and the government here is very protective of its people, their culture and the unique landscape of the islands. The beaches remain pristine with warm water lagoons giving way to superb coral reefs teeming with marine life including sea turtles, dolphins, lionfish and sharks. A blissful retreat with excellent snorkelling and diving, the Lakshadweep Islands are normally reached by flight from Cochin but the administration has temporarily suspended visitor permits and the islands remain closed to foreign visitors at this time. We hope this situation will soon change so please speak to your specialist for the latest update.

An uninhabited island surrounded by white coral sands and turquoise waters, Bangaram is a low-key resort with simple but comfortable accommodation. This idyllic destination offers blissful relaxation as well as excellent diving and snorkelling and in order to preserve its natural beauty all buildings are made from locally-sourced materials. Deliberately rustic in style, Bangaram has no TVs or air-conditioning but has a beautiful restaurant and bar overlooking the endless sea. This remote spot is reached by boat from the main island Agatti, but is currently closed, please speak to our specialists for the latest permit information or for suggested alternatives in South India.

When to go Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun

33 33 33

Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

33 33

33 The best time to travel. 3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.

Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year.

5 Travel is not recommended.

The best time to visit Kerala is from November to March when skies are clear and humidity is lowest. Temperatures at this time fluctuate between 20C and 35C (65F and 95F), with sea breezes moderating the heat on the coast and high altitudes making the hills refreshingly cooler, though this region can be quite cold at night. Between May and October the westerly monsoon winds arrive, bringing high rainfall to the region making it a less favourable time to visit. Time difference: GMT+5.5 hours

Prices We offer trips to cater for a wide range of budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices for your trip to Kerala and South India on our website, alternatively please call our specialists to discuss your plans.

Bangaram Island Resort, Lakshadweep Islands

Kerala has three international airports offering regular flights. Once here, the small state is easy to get around and most journeys can be comfortably undertaken by road. Roads in lowland areas are generally in reasonable condition but the narrow winding roads in the hills means that journeys can take longer than you might expect. We arrange an air-conditioned car and driver for your convenience and your specialist will factor in journey times to all itineraries. A scenic train line runs along the coast and through the mountains that separate Kerala from Tamil Nadu and is an appealing alternative for long journeys. Travelling along the backwaters in a converted rice boat is a wonderfully tranquil way to explore the vibrant inland waterways. We also offer a host of cycling and walking tours from a variety of homestays.

Suggested itineraries Mangalore

Bangalore

Neeleshwar

Mysore Munnar Cochin Ooty

Marari Beach Alleppey

Wayanad

Tellicherry Mettupalayam

Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary

Cochin

Marari

Backwaters

Classic Kerala

Western Ghats to Coast

A Journey Through Kerala

This itinerary provides a great introduction to Kerala and covers many of its highlights. Explore the colonial port town of Cochin before heading inland to the Western Ghats for some time walking in this beautiful mountain region. Follow it with a few days in the backwaters with a stay on a traditional rice barge or relax on the beach.

Explore Kerala’s varied landscapes, travelling from the central city of Bangalore west across the mountains, ending at Kerala’s beautiful coastline. See the incredible palaces of Mysore, travel on the toy train through the Nilgiri hills, absorb Cochin’s colonial heritage all before relaxing along the backwaters and on the beach.

An overview of Kerala’s cultural and historical sights, this itinerary begins in the less-visited north of the state with a few days on the beach. Once settled, travel to Tellicherry before heading into the cooler hills for some walking. Continue south to the fortified fort of Cochin before a final few days on the meandering backwaters.

Day 1

Fly overnight to Cochin.

Day 1

Fly overnight to Bangalore.

Day 1

Day 2

Arrive in Cochin and have the afternoon to stroll along the waterfront, see the Chinese fishing nets and get a feel for the town.

Day 2

Arrive in Bangalore and make the journey onwards to Mysore.

Fly overnight to Mangalore via Bombay.

Day 2

Arrive in Mangalore and drive to Neeleshwar for an afternoon on the beach.

Day 3

Take a guided tour of colonial Cochin and discover the history.

Day 4

Drive up to Munnar for a walk through the pleasantly cool tea plantations.

Day 5

Soak up Munnar’s scenery on a short walk or visit the tea museum before driving on to Periyar.

Day 6

Set off early for a guided jungle walk followed by a visit to the region’s famous spice plantations.

Day 7

Drive to Alleppey to board your houseboat for a cruise along the backwaters.

Day 8

Transfer to your backwaters accommodation where you can punt a canoe, bird watch or simply sit back and watch the world go by.

Day 9

Day 10

Day 11

Drive to Marari Beach for the day, stroll along the beach or relax under a palm tree with a book. A second day in Marari to try an Ayurvedic massage or hire a bicycle to explore the quiet lanes. Transfer to the airport to connect with your international flight.

Stay longer Extend your trip with a scenic rail trip through the mountains to Tamil Nadu. Visit Madurai to see the towering Meenakshi Temple, one of the most vibrant and colourful temples in India.

Day 3

Day 4

Day 5

Day 6

Day 7

Day 8

Day 9 Day 10 Day 11

Explore the impressive sites of Mysore before visiting the Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary. Continue to explore the colonial town of Ooty nestled in the Nilgiri hills. Relax in the tea hills before taking the Blue Mountain toy train to Mettupalayam.

Days 3-4 Spend time relaxing, join a yoga class or visit nearby temples. Days 5-6 Continue to Tellicherry to visit the fort, shop in the market or enjoy a cooking demonstration. Day 7

Another train journey today taking in the scenic route to the Malabar coast and south to Cochin.

Drive to the refreshingly cool Wayanad hills and enjoy some walking through the plantations.

Day 8

Enjoy a guided tour of Fort Cochin including St Francis Church and Santa Cruz Basilica.

Visit Wayanad’s prehistoric caves or take a jeep safari around Nagarhole National Park.

Day 9

Travel to the backwaters before boarding your traditional houseboat for the night.

Descend to the coast and take the train south to Cochin for a sunset harbour cruise.

Day 10

Disembark the boat after breakfast and head to the coast at Marari.

Explore Cochin with your guide and watch an evening performance of Kathakali dance-drama.

Day 11

Spend the day relaxing on beautiful beaches.

Drive to the backwaters for your cruise on board a houseboat.

Day 12

Meander along the waterways watching a colourful world pass by.

Day 13

Enjoy a final day in the backwaters.

Day 14

Transfer to Cochin airport for your onwards international flight.

Head back to Cochin to connect with your onwards international flight.

Stay longer Head into the hills for a few days in Munnar, home to some of the world’s highest tea plantations, for leisurely walking and spectacular views, or fly to the Maldives for powder-white beaches and turquoise seas.

Stay longer Start your itinerary in Bangalore instead of Mangalore and travel west to the ancient city of Mysore known for its ornate monuments.

www.audleytravel.com/kerala • 01993 838 355 • Kerala

Wildlife in India A

vast country encompassing a diverse range of landscapes and a huge array of habitats, India is home to some of the world’s most spectacular wildlife. From the towering peaks of the Himalaya through the vast river plains of the north and on to the tropical south, India’s habitats are protected in a series of 112 national parks and over 500 wildlife sanctuaries. The elusive big cats are the biggest drawcard for many visitors, with about 70% of the world’s wild tiger population here, as well as the world’s only Asiatic lion population. However, the plethora of elephants, bears, deer, birds and reptiles are equally impressive, and far easier to see. With so many parks there’s an incredible variety of experiences on offer from game drives and walking safaris to leisurely cruises and cycle tours. Along the way you’re likely to encounter a fascinating selection of animals, spectacular plant life and a host of former royal hunting lodges and ruined forts.

Our guides are chosen on merit and they ensure that every game drive is as rewarding as possible, whether you’re on the trail of the elusive big cats or interested in the spiritual and healing powers of the ancient banyan trees. Although a sighting of a wild Bengal tiger is unforgettable, not even the best guide can guarantee this. To maximise your chances, follow your guide’s advice, wear dark clothes, carry binoculars and allow enough time to spend a few days at your chosen destination.

Accommodation India offers a broad range of accommodation options from simple family-run guesthouses to luxurious jungle lodges. We have personally chosen a selection of lodges and camps in each park to cater for a range of tastes and budgets but we have a preference for smaller properties where personal service, attention to detail and excellent in-house naturalists can be guaranteed. For an unrivalled jungle experience, we also offer a range of authentic safari camps and treetop lodges that place you in the heart of the forest close to nature and the wildlife that abounds here.

DELHI

Agra Ranthambhore National Park

CHIN

Panna National Park

Little Rann of Kutch National Park

Jabalpur Ahmedabad Bhopal Satpura National Park

Nagpur

Khajuraho

B H U TA N

BANGLADES

Bandhavgarh National Park

4 Calcutta

Kanha National Park Pench National Park

Tadoba National Park

Mumbai

Kaziranga National Park

Chambal Sanctuary

Sasan Gir National Park

PA L

TA N

Corbett National Park

MY AN

We know that advance planning and a passionate and professional guide can make the difference between a good trip and an outstanding one. And when you’ve come to see the wildlife, these considerations are crucial. India is a complex destination for travel but our wildlife team is extremely experienced with years of travel and research here, and is well placed to advise you on all aspects of your trip. From hand-picked accommodation to an intimate knowledge of what each region or park has to offer, their advice will guide you from the moment you start planning your trip.

Audley in India’s National Parks

200 miles

322 kilometres

INDIA

Bangalore

8 Nagarhole National Park

1 Ranthambhore One of the most accessible national parks with a good population of tigers. See page 84 2 Kaziranga Renowned for its one-horned rhinos, this is one of India’s most remote national parks. See page 85

3 Sasan Gir The little-visited home of the rare Asiatic lion. See page 85 4 Bandhavgarh Healthy numbers of tigers, jackal, sambar deer and wild boar make this a rewarding park to visit. See page 86

5 Kanha A beautiful park of grassy meadows and lush forests home to tigers, sloth bears, leopards and wild dogs. See page 87 6 Satpura A stunning but extremely quiet park, the rugged gorges and ravines can be explored on rewarding walking safaris. See page 88 7 Tadoba A hidden gem in central India, this park sees few visitors but has high tiger densities. See page 89 8 Nagarhole

Elephants, Corbett National Park

Dense forests and marshy swamps here make the perfect habitat for wild elephants. See page 88

www.audleytravel.com/indiawildlife • 01993 838 350 • Wildlife in India

Indian peacock, Ranthambhore National Park

Khem Villas, Ranthambhore

Ranthambhore National Park Easy to access and known for its tiger population, Ranthambhore is one of India’s most popular national parks. The beautiful landscape here was a royal hunting ground enjoyed by the Maharaja of Jaipur and at its heart is a wonderfully ornate 10 th-century fort which sits high on a rocky outcrop as if surveying the forests below. Ranthambhore was included in the first phase of Project Tiger, a government initiative to safeguard the country’s tiger population, and traffic here is restricted. You’ll need to join a shared early morning or late afternoon game drive along a set route if you want to visit, but the tiger population seems habituated to this regular traffic and sightings are still frequent. In addition, a whole host of other species can be seen including deer, antelope, monkeys, hyenas and over 300 bird species.

An Audley favourite, this deceptively simple camp offers charming but sophisticated accommodation in a series of eight luxury cottages and 13 tents just outside the park limits. Beautifully styled with teak furniture, local fabrics and romantic open-air baths, the cottages and tents are well spaced and allow plenty of privacy. Four further rooms are available in the main house and have similarly stylish decor. There’s a small freshwater plunge pool to cool off in as well as a choice of excellent traditional vegetarian food. The owners also run a variety of conservation programmes and guests can see their work first-hand on a visit to local schools or villages.

Corbett National Park India’s oldest national park, Corbett sits majestically in the foothills of the Himalaya. Renowned for its birdlife, over 650 species have been spotted here including great pied hornbills and the rare ibisbill. Elephants are another major draw, wild herds emerge from the forests to drink at the river, where marsh crocodiles and gharial, a rare fish-eating crocodile, dwell. Although Corbett was one of the first parks to become part of Project Tiger, the dense vegetation and inaccessibility of many parts of the park mean that sightings are rare. Although a popular destination, accommodation options here are still basic and limited.

Tiger Den, Ranthambhore Just five minutes from the park entrance gates, this conveniently located hotel offers 50 rooms, suites and cottages surrounding a large inviting pool. Basic but comfortable, each air-conditioned room is tastefully decorated and has a private en suite shower room. The hotel is set in landscaped gardens and offers a range of talks and films on Ranthambhore and its wildlife, as well as a library of local reference books. You can relax in the pool or steam room, enjoy a spa treatment or sip a drink under the stars. The restaurant serves a choice of Indian, Chinese and Western food and after dinner, guests gather outside for drinks around the fire. Tiger Den, Ranthambhore

Elephants, Corbett National Park

Indian roller, Kaziranga National Park

Wild buffaloes, Kaziranga National Park

Little Rann of Kutch Biosphere

Asiatic lion, Sasan Gir National Park

The last refuge of the Indian wild ass, the salt marshes of Little Rann of Kutch have been protected since 1973. A flat and often featureless expanse of wilderness, this unique landscape is truly remarkable and bursts into life in the monsoon. Coarse grasses, acacia and scrub spring up and offer a seasonal feast for the chestnut coloured asses that can be seen grazing in the early morning or late afternoon. Little Rann of Kutch combines well with a visit to Sasan Gir, giving adventurous visitors a glimpse of some of India’s rarest wildlife.

Sasan Gir National Park

Kaziranga National Park

One of the most important protected areas in Asia, Sasan Gir National Park is home to the rare Asiatic lion. This sub species is found nowhere else on Earth and the teak forests of this former royal hunting ground provide an ideal habitat for these magnificent big cats. The park was established in 1965 on the Saurashtra Peninsula in Gujarat and stretches over almost 1,500 square kilometres. Infrastructure here is basic and visitor facilities are not as well developed as in other parts of the country. Although this means fewer creature comforts, it also results in lower visitor numbers so you can enjoy this great park in relative isolation.

One of India’s most remote and beautiful parks, Kaziranga is known for its one-horned rhino and is home to two thirds of the world’s population of these impressive beasts. The park is set on the banks of the mighty Brahmaputra River in Assam and features a combination of dense tropical forest, towering elephant grass and swampy marshland. Although there is also a high density of tigers here they are rarely seen but elephants, water buffalo and barasingha (swamp deer with impressive antlers) are commonly spotted. Birdlife is also spectacular with plenty of water pools attracting fishing birds such as pelicans and Pallas’s fish eagle.

Diphlu River Lodge, Kaziranga A delightful sustainable tourism venture set on the banks of the Diphlu River, this rustic yet luxurious lodge is the best accommodation in the region. Situated just a short journey from Kaziranga, it is surrounded by lush forest and farmland, its 12 cottages offering gorgeous views. The thatched main lodge and cottages are built from local materials and designed to blend in with nature. All are raised on stilts to allow for seasonal flooding and decorated in rich, warm tones with local handicrafts and artefacts providing a charming character. Each cottage has a seating area, writing desk and en suite shower room as well as large folding glass doors which open onto a balcony overlooking the river or paddy fields. The staff here all come from the local community and are passionate about the project’s success. The food is hearty and plentiful with Indian, Assamese and Continental cuisine featuring rice, vegetables and mustard from the garden.

Diphlu River Lodge, Kaziranga

www.audleytravel.com/indiawildlife • 01993 838 350 • Wildlife in India

Tiger, Bandhavgarh National Park

Panna National Park

Bandhavgarh National Park

A picturesque park just 45 minutes from the ornate temple complex at Khajuraho, Panna is an easily accessible wilderness home to chittal and sambar deer, langur monkeys and the marsh mugger crocodile which lives on the banks of the River Ken. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll also find an abundance of birdlife here and the park is an excellent place to see birds of prey such as eagles and vultures. Panna has been a tiger reserve since 1994 but its proximity to urban centres has meant pressure from an expanding population and the unwanted attention of poachers. Sadly, by 2009 its tiger population had been entirely wiped out. Since then tigers have been reintroduced from other areas and the park has had some success with its breeding programme.

Once the hunting grounds of the royal family of Rewa, Bandhavgarh sits in the northern Satpura Hills in Madhya Pradesh. The thick sal and bamboo forest here is interspersed with open marshland and makes an ideal habitat for a wide range of wildlife including tigers, wild boar, macaques, jackal and sambar deer as well as the less commonly seen gaur, or Indian bison. A variety of birdlife can be seen here too, including steppe eagle, hornbills and bee-eaters. Game viewing in the park is well organised with wardens monitoring the sizeable tiger population day by day, increasing the chances of spotting these graceful creatures. Consequently, this is a very popular park with game drives departing in the early morning and late afternoon.

Kings Lodge, Bandhavgarh

of the area, and trains villagers as naturalists and camp staff in the belief that they are the true guardians of the local forests and their wildlife.

Mahua Kothi, Bandhavgarh Built in traditional local style with timber beams and handmade roof tiles, Mahua Kothi is a rustic but lovingly crafted place that is firmly rooted in its environment. The 12 kutiyas (jungle village huts) are richly decorated with local fabrics and are extremely comfortable. Each has its own courtyard with a shaded seating area as well as bicycles to borrow, yoga equipment and traditional games. The main lodge features high ceilings and terracotta floors, a wide veranda and an open kitchen where guests can watch butter being churned, spices ground and roti being cooked. Escape the heat in the swimming pool, relax in the library, or enjoy a drink under the stars.

A much loved property set just ten minutes from Bandhavgarhâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tala gate, Kings Lodge blends beautifully with the surrounding landscape. There are eight cottages and ten stilted rooms, simply but elegantly decorated with hand-crafted furniture and local artworks. All have modern, en suite bathrooms and the stilted rooms have the addition of a balcony. There is also a library, a swimming pool and an excellent restaurant but the real charm lies in the fantastic staff and passionate naturalist team. The lodge is firmly committed to conservation Kings Lodge, Bandhavgarh

Mahua Kothi, Bandhavgarh

Rhesus macaque, Bandhavgarh National Park

Plain tiger butterfly, Pench National Park

Barasingha, Kanha National Park

Shergarh, Kanha

Flame of the Forest, Kanha

Tiger Corridor, Pench

Kanha National Park

you’ll get a considerate and insightful glimpse into life in this part of India. The atmosphere is warm and relaxed with the owners personally looking after their guests. The six comfortable, well-spaced tents are simply but elegantly furnished with solid mud tile roofs and spacious bathrooms crafted using local building methods and materials. Meals are shared communally in the main house and an evening drink on the veranda overlooking the central water reserve promises views of kingfishers, cormorants and egrets.

Pench National Park

Legend has it that the lush sal and bamboo forest and tall meadows of this park, along with nearby Pench, provided the inspiration for Rudyard Kipling’s treasure The Jungle Book. The wilderness here is no less impressive today, and is home to a healthy tiger population as well as the rare barasingha, deer, antelope, wild dogs, macaques and almost 300 bird species. Leopards and sloth bears also reside here but are difficult to spot. Kanha covers over 940 square kilometres but game drives can take you deep into the forest where sightings of the big cats are common, although by no means guaranteed. There are multiple entry points, including Kisli and Mukki. There’s a choice of accommodation near both entrances and it’s a good idea to combine a visit with Bandhavgarh or Pench to experience contrasting parks and reduce journey times.

Shergarh, Kanha This rustic camp on the quieter side of Kanha National Park is the kind of place that enriches the local community as well as all those who visit here. Built by a local naturalist and his English wife, the emphasis is very much on providing memorable wildlife experiences that are both sensitive to the local environment and the community. With excellent guiding, river and hill walks, cycle rides and visits to tribal markets,

Flame of the Forest, Kanha With just four beautifully-crafted cottages set on the banks of the Banjar River, Flame of the Forest provides a wonderfully intimate location to relax and explore the wildlife of Kanha. The camp is just ten minutes from the Kisli gate and run by an experienced naturalist and his Swiss wife who provide a highly personal service. The simple cottages are built from gober, a mixture of mud, water and cow dung, in traditional style and feature outdoor showers, and large doors that provide superb views over the river and surrounding countryside. The central lodge is the place to enjoy a communal dinner or you can retreat for a candlelit bush meal under the stars. There are no TVs or swimming pool here but the excellent jeep safaris often led by the owner, Karan, are some of the best around.

Another region visited by Rudyard Kipling, Pench is one of Madhya Pradesh’s least known parks. The teak forests here support a huge variety of wildlife from jungle cats and spotted deer to langur monkeys and a large population of tigers, although sightings are less common here than in other parks. An expert naturalist can take you through the buffer zone on an unforgettable journey that reveals a totally different aspect of the Indian wilderness, and the chance to see the unusual flying squirrel. Pench is just a two-hour drive from Nagpur airport but visitor numbers are low and the experience here is tranquil and authentic.

Tiger Corridor, Pench A luxurious camp in the Pench buffer zone, Tiger Corridor overlooks the Banjar River and offers a chic retreat from the wilderness. The lodge has eight air-conditioned cottages and eight spacious tents, colonial in style with elaborately carved beds, silk drapes, ornate wooden chests, antique furniture and clawfooted baths. The lodge has a private tented lounge along with a well-stocked bar and dining room serving Continental and Indian cuisine. You can relax by the pool in the heat of the day, indulge in an Ayurvedic treatment in the spa, watch wildlife presentations or sit back and enjoy tribal folk dances in the evening.

www.audleytravel.com/indiawildlife • 01993 838 350 • Wildlife in India

Elephants, Nagarhole National Park

Reni Pani, Satpura

Satpura National Park Little-visited Satpura is an extremely rugged place of beautiful sandstone peaks, narrow gorges and ravines, and densely forested hills. Combined with the adjoining Bori and Pachmarhi sanctuaries it protects a large swathe of the unique Central Indian ecosystem and supports an array of mammals including tigers, leopards, chital, nilgai, chinkara, bison and wild boar. It’s a particularly good place to see the elusive sloth bear and a wide range of birdlife. One of the most exciting aspects of the park is the range of ways to explore. Jeep safaris provide access to some areas but others are best seen on foot or by canoe or kayak. This is the only one of Central India’s national parks that allows such trips and with so few visitors it can feel like you have the whole wilderness to yourself.

A classic wildlife camp built from local materials, Reni Pani has a clear focus on conservation yet also manages to provide chic and charming accommodation in a superb setting. There are 12 cottages, situated by the seasonal nallahs (streams), in the woodland or on the hilltop which provides mesmerising views of the forest canopy and the mountains beyond. All the cottages are decorated in a rustic but elegant style and have private decks. There is also a pool to cool off in, a well-stocked library and a restaurant. Meals are served in the communal dining room, by a fire under the stars or in a number of romantic locations in the grounds. The lodge has four resident naturalists who offer private jeep safaris and walks through the buffer zone, though you may well spot wildlife in the camp’s grounds.

Orange County, Nagarhole

Nagarhole National Park Dense forests, marshy swamps and rolling hills surround the huge reservoir in Nagarhole National Park. Renowned for its wild elephants, sightings are frequent, but you’ll also have the chance to spot tigers, leopards, gaur, macaques, langurs and an abundance of birds. Game drives can be taken in a shared jeep or by motorboat or coracle (a traditional round paddle boat) to observe elephants and crocodiles. Nagarhole is in Karnataka and is the best place to view wildlife during a tour of southern India.

Orange County, Nagarhole Inspired by the design of local villages, Orange County sits in a prime location on the banks of the Kabini River, close to Nagarhole National Park. Although environmentally sensitive and constructed from local materials, the lodge is extremely comfortable with stylish finishes and an air of understated luxury. The 30 spacious suites blend traditional materials with contemporary style and feature handcrafted furniture, private courtyards and either Jacuzzis or pools. There are two restaurants to choose from and guests can also dine in a romantic pavilion by the water’s edge or on a candlelit boat. Days can be spent exploring the national park or visiting local villages, while after dark you can join a guided night walk around the property or enjoy performances by tribal dancers.

Suggested itinerary Tailoring your trip

Leopard, Satpura National Park

Bandhavgarh National Park

The itinerary shown is designed to give you a flavour of what is possible, and is a route that works particularly well. We can use this as a basis to plan your trip or can design a completely different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests. Call one of our India wildlife specialists to start planning your itinerary.

Kanha Satpura National Park Nagpur

Pench National Park

Mumbai (Bombay)

T 01993 838 350

Getting around

Sloth bear

The sheer size and scale of the Subcontinent means that getting around it involves long distances and a variety of transport methods. The national parks are scattered around the country and accessibility, infrastructure and facilities vary considerably from place to place. Some parks are just a short drive from urban centres, others are more remote. In many cases the distance between parks is huge and road conditions are generally poor. Despite this, travelling with your private driver is often the only option. It is easy however, to combine a visit to any of the parks with a cultural tour of the north or south. To combine the parks of Central India with those in the far south or in the northeast would require a mix of road and domestic air travel.

Tadoba National Park

When to go

Little green bee-eater, Nagarhole National Park

Central India’s hidden gem, this little-visited park is situated in the Chandrapur district of Maharashtra, a region of dense, tropical deciduous forest. Safaris here are very special as the lack of visitors gives the impression of exploring in complete wilderness. The wildlife here is not accustomed to vehicles and can be skittish, but your guides will tailor your drive accordingly. It’s worth allowing a few days here if you hope to see the tigers, leopards or sloth bears but as you track the larger mammals you’re likely to encounter a rich variety of birdlife as well as gaur, wild dogs, striped hyenas, jungle cats and chausingha (the four-horned antelope), while in the southwest of the park, Tadoba Lake is a haven for mugger crocodiles.

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun

33 33 33 33

Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

33 The best time to travel. 3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.

India’s Wildlife Treasures Experience a range of scenery, wildlife and activities on this comprehensive tour of Central India’s national parks. Search for tigers in popular Bandhavgarh, get off the beaten track deep in the forest at Kanha, experience a night drive in little-known Pench or canoe, kayak or explore on foot in ruggedly beautiful and little-visited Satpura. Day 1

Days 2-4 Make the short drive to Pench, one of the region’s least known parks, where you will explore the teak forests and stunning meadows on morning and afternoon jeep safaris in search of tigers, langur, spotted deer and jungle cats. Days 4-7 Enjoy a final morning game drive before continuing by road to vast Kanha for jeep safaris deep into the park, village visits and birdwatching walks along the Banjar River. Days 7-9

~ Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year. 5 Travel is not recommended.

The best time to experience India’s wonderful wildlife is between November and April when the weather is warm and generally dry. As water sources begin to dry out in March and April, animals congregate at the few remaining waterholes making sightings more frequent, however temperatures at this time of year reach 40C (104F) and some tented accommodation will be closed. With monsoon rains turning the parks to muddy quagmires during the summer, most national parks close from July to October. India has a variety of weather patterns however, so please speak to your specialist as they can offer advice on the best times, places and activities for you. Time difference: GMT+5.5 hours

Fly to Nagpur via Mumbai.

Take a morning drive in Kanha then continue on to Bandhavgarh National Park with its healthy tiger population and imposing hilltop fort.

Days 9-12 Drive to Jabalpur then take a short train journey to Pipariya. Transfer to serene Satpura National Park to enjoy walking the rugged valleys and boat safaris on the Tawa Reservoir. Day 12

Final morning safari before you transfer to Bhopal to connect with your international flight via Mumbai.

Stay longer To extend your stay, you could opt to see India’s cultural highlights in the Golden Triangle, visit the holy city of Varanasi or explore the ornate temples in Khajuraho. Alternatively, get off the beaten track with a visit to Tadoba National Park and include a few days on the river in Chambal in search of the Gangetic dolphin.

Prices We offer trips to cater for a wide range of budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices for your trip to India’s national parks on our website, alternatively please call our specialists to discuss your plans. Tiger, Tadoba National Park

www.audleytravel.com/indiawildlife • 01993 838 350 • Wildlife in India

Sri Lanka U

nderestimated and in many ways undiscovered, Sri Lanka offers incredible diversity, excellent food and wonderfully welcoming people. Its most remarkable asset is the sheer variety of things to see and do in a very compact area. You can enjoy ancient capitals and amazing temples, verdant tea plantations, sandy beaches, national parks teeming with elephants, and lush rainforest. Sri Lanka’s Cultural Triangle is its historic heart and the elaborate ancient cities, forts and temples in the region are unmissable. To the south is the scenic lakeside city of Kandy, a pilgrimage site and cultural centre, while the cooler central highlands are home to the island’s famous tea plantations. Along the southern coast you’ll find the colonial treasure, Galle, a former stronghold for the Portuguese, Dutch and British. Whale watching is another draw in this region, and across Sri Lanka the national parks protect a diverse range of species from sloth bears to elusive leopards. The north and east of the island are fast evolving. Although still off the beaten track, their attractions mean it’s unlikely to stay that way for long.

Audley in Sri Lanka Sri Lankan people are extremely friendly and you will be accompanied on your trip by a private driver-guide who is passionate and knowledgeable about the country, its history and attractions and can help you get the most from your visit. They can also offer illuminating insights into everyday life here, recommend restaurants or even dishes to try, or find places to stop for the best panoramic views. All the vehicles are air-conditioned and couples will generally be transported in saloon-style cars while minivans are provided for families or groups of friends. In addition to these scenic road journeys it is well worth taking a trip on the British-built train network. A wonderfully nostalgic way to travel, the ‘tea plantation’ train between Kandy and Nuwara Eliya is highly recommended.

3 Tea Country A cooler region of lush rolling hills blanketed with greenery and dotted with gorgeous colonial-era hotels. See page 99

Jaffna

Trincomalee Wilpattu National Park

Mihintale

Anuradhapura Ritigala National Reserve

Puttalam

Dambulla

Indian Ocean

Habarana

Sigiriya

Accommodation In the more popular regions of Sri Lanka there’s a wonderful choice of accommodation from tastefully converted tea planters’ bungalows to small boutique villas, eco-friendly resorts and opulent beach retreats. In many areas you’ll find atmospheric rooms in historic buildings, and there are a number of distinctive options designed by Sri Lanka’s most famous architect, Geoffrey Bawa. You’ll also find hotels in wildlife-rich areas where exotic birds flit between the trees and the odd elephant can be seen wandering by. In emerging destinations such as in the east and north, the choice is more limited but this is likely to change as these areas are developing. Sri Lanka is gaining in popularity as a destination and new hotels are opening up across the country all the time. Our specialists visit regularly to keep abreast of all these changes and can find an accommodation option to suit your tastes and budget.

4 Galle A handsome fortified city set on a promontory and home to winding streets lined by grand merchant houses, colourful boutiques and inviting cafes. See page 102

Minneriya National Park

Passikudah Polonnaruwa

5 Jaffna & the north Off the beaten track and begging to be explored, this Tamil region holds plenty of undiscovered treasures. See page 96

Pallepola

SRI LANKA Kandy

Gal Oya National Park

Negombo

Nuwara Eliya Hatton

COLOMBO

Ella

3 Ratnapura

Adam’s Peak

Horton Plains

30 miles

48 kilometres

Arugam Bay

Bandarawela Uda Walawe National Park

Sinharaja Forest Reserve

Bentota

Yala National Park

Bundala National Park

4 Galle

Weligama Mirissa

1 Cultural Triangle Vast ancient cities, palaces, temples, monasteries and fortresses make this the historic heart and soul of Sri Lanka. See page 93

Hambantota Tangalle

2 Kandy A magnet for pilgrims, picturesque Kandy is home to the country’s most sacred site, the Temple of the Tooth. See page 98

Wildlife Sri Lanka’s diverse national parks are home to wild Asian elephants, an abundance of birdlife and elusive leopards. See pages 100-101 Golden beaches The beautiful southwest beaches are popular year-round but from July to September, the northeast shores are best.

www.audleytravel.com/srilanka • 01993 838 335 • Sri Lanka

Traders at the vegetable market, Colombo

The Kingsbury, Colombo

Colombo A fast developing city that acts as the entry and exit point for visitors to Sri Lanka, Colombo is a rather functional transport hub where few visitors linger. However, the city is growing and improving and the grand colonial buildings that line the wide boulevards and the extensive waterfront developments offer Colombo potential as a destination for the future. For now the bustling Galle Face Green overlooking the ocean is a lively place in the evenings and weekends, while the downtown area has lots of interesting shops selling local crafts, textiles and jewels and plenty of good restaurants. For cricket fans, attending an international match in this cricket-loving nation is an atmospheric experience. Please speak to your specialist if interested and we may be able to secure tickets.

A large, modern hotel on the seafront, The Kingsbury has a convenient location in the heart of the city. Decorated in a contemporary style with classical touches, it offers excellent facilities including an outdoor pool, luxurious spa and fitness centre. There are four restaurants to choose from, with well-regarded Chinese and seafood selections, and three bars including the rooftop Sky Lounge. Ongoing building work on the neighbouring harbour blights the views from some of the 229 rooms and the pool for the time being.

The Wallawwa, near Colombo This charming 200-year-old colonial manor house has been lovingly converted into a contemporary boutique hotel offering accommodation just 15 minutes from the international airport. Set in beautiful gardens, the 17 artfully furnished rooms and suites are thoroughly modern but reflect the character of the property. Hidden in a quiet corner of the garden is a tranquil pool, while the luxurious spa offers a range of treatments. The main house has plenty of period features, a well-stocked library and a lovely fusion restaurant on the veranda. Although a good base on arrival or departure from Sri Lanka, the excellent service and relaxed atmosphere of The Wallawwa could entice you to stay for longer.

Horathapola Estate, near Colombo

Horathapola Estate, near Colombo A plantation bungalow with just five guest rooms, this beautiful estate is a highly personable place to stay. The house maintains much of its original 1920s charm with large windows, antique furniture and old photographs on display, while the spacious rooms all feature their own balcony or terrace overlooking the garden. The saltwater pool is a great place to relax with views into the surrounding coconut plantation. With welcoming and attentive staff, this is a very relaxing place to stay.

The Wallawwa, near Colombo

Guard stone at Ratna Prasada, Anuradhapura

Mihintale

The Mudhouse, Anamaduwa

Isurumuniya Temple, Anuradhapura

Cultural Triangle

Each has its own shower, toilet and hammocks to laze in. Although there is no hot water or electricity, the numerous candles and oil lamps that illuminate the property by night give it an incredibly romantic atmosphere. The staff here are all locals, very friendly and keen to offer visitors an insight into life in rural Sri Lanka. Guests can enjoy a cooking demonstration in the traditional kitchen or just sit back and enjoy the daily changing menu of local dishes which revolves around ingredients picked from the garden.

The dry plains that stretch north from Kandy were the heart of ancient Sri Lanka and the staggering monuments that remain here are some of the country’s most important treasures. With four UNESCO World Heritage Sites in this extraordinary region, it is one of Sri Lanka’s most popular destinations and a great stopover en route to the less-developed east coast. The vast ancient capitals of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa, the ornate cave temples at Dambulla and the mighty rock fortress of Sigiriya will linger long in the memory but this cultural triangle is also home to an abundance of wild elephants making it a fascinating region to explore. With so much to see, it is worth spending at least three nights here, and there are plenty of good hotels with swimming pools to relax in at the end of a day in the sun.

The Mudhouse, Anamaduwa A gloriously simple and wonderfully distinctive place to stay, The Mudhouse has five thatched, open-sided lodges that offer the opportunity to get back to nature in style. With rammed earth floors, wattle-and-daub walls and outdoor bathrooms, this isn’t a run-of-the-mill choice but if you crave local charm and value the natural things in life, it is truly unforgettable. The lodges are comfortable and organically stylish with local and reclaimed materials used to ingenious effect.

Anuradhapura & Mihintale A vast monastic city dating from the 4th century BC, Anuradhapura was built around a cutting taken from the original Bodhi tree under which the Buddha gained enlightenment. Some of the temples, monasteries and monuments of this time are restored, others lie in atmospheric ruins, while some are still functioning. This holy city bridges a huge span of history and brightlyrobed monks and pilgrims dressed in white still walk around bell-shaped dagobas (shrines) much as their ancestors would have done thousands of years ago. Nearby, another sacred site and place of pilgrimage, Mihintale, is perched on a rocky outcrop. Believed to be the spot where Buddhism was introduced to Sri Lanka, its ruins, stupas, statues and impressive views make it well worth the steep climb to the top.

Thuparamaya, Anuradhapura

Ulagalla, Anuradhapura A beautifully restored mansion dating back 150 years, this luxurious hotel has just 20 villas spread out over its vast grounds. Your privacy is guaranteed here and the serene atmosphere and excellent service mean that you’ll feel utterly pampered. Floor-to-ceiling windows bathe the stilted villas in light and offer panoramic views of the lush paddy fields, forests and tranquil lakes which dominate the grounds. The spacious villas have simple but classically elegant design with wooden floors, king size beds and private plunge pools. An Olympic-size pool glistens by the main house or you can borrow bicycles to ride around the grounds, relax in the spa or venture further afield to go horse riding, birdwatching or kayaking.

Ulagalla, Anuradhapura

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View of Sigiriya Rock from Pidurangala

Sigiriya

Steps between the lion's paws, Sigiriya Rock

Polonnaruwa The ancient royal city of Polonnaruwa came to the fore after Anuradhapura was destroyed in 993. More accessible and better preserved than its predecessor, its temples, palaces, stupas, sanctuaries and rock sculptures are clustered in groups around the modern town and boast some captivating examples of master craftsmanship of the time. Gal Vihara, with its four giant statues of Buddha meditating, reclining and standing, dates from the 12th century and is one of the city’s highlights. Its excellent state of preservation and intricate detail makes it hard to believe the statues were carved from the granite rock almost a thousand years ago. 94

One of Sri Lanka’s most recognisable landmarks, the impressive, UNESCO-protected Sigiriya Rock dominates the local landscape, rising over 200 metres above the surrounding plains. An ideal position for a fortress, King Kasyapa went one step further and built a palace on top in the 5th century. It’s a demanding 1,200-step climb to the summit but en route you’ll catch a glimpse of its former splendour in the shape of vivid frescoes of the young women of Kasyapa’s harem and a pair of enormous paws, all that is left of a massive ceremonial entrance in the shape of a lion. Here too is the Mirror Wall, scratched with 1,000-year-old graffiti of ancient visitors, suggesting the rock could be one of the oldest attractions in the world. Reach the summit however, and you’ll be rewarded with the atmospheric palace ruins and spectacular views of the surrounding countryside with the outline of Kasyapa’s city and pleasure gardens clearly visible below.

Vil Uyana, Sigiriya

Cinnamon Lodge, Habarana

Cinnamon Lodge, Habarana A tranquil retreat in the heart of the Cultural Triangle, Cinnamon Lodge sits in wooded parkland. The lush vegetation plays host to a rich variety of wildlife and the 137 traditional two-storey chalets enjoy great serenity. Bright and spacious, the rooms are classically styled with large bathrooms, private lounges and balconies or verandas. The main lodge features a choice of restaurants as well as a spa and swimming pool.

Vil Uyana, Sigiriya Within a private wetland reserve created from abandoned paddy fields, reed beds and lakes, this unique eco resort sits in the shadow of Sigiriya Rock. The emphasis here is on natural living and open spaces and the 25 beautiful villas are made from woven reeds, rattan, local woods and stone. Simple but stylish inside, they vary according to their location, but all are bright and spacious and have well-equipped modern bathrooms and private balconies.

Elephants, Minneriya National Park

Monk at Gal Vihara, Polonnaruwa

Fresco, Sigiriya Rock

Polonnaruwa Vatadage

Minneriya National Park A haven for wild elephants, Minneriya is set around a 3rd-century ‘tank’ or reservoir, and attracts large herds particularly between July and October when water sources elsewhere dry up. Easily seen on a jeep safari, the elephants are joined by an enormous variety of birdlife including the frequently seen Ceylon fish owl and sea eagle. The park covers a diverse range of habitats from dry tropical forest to wetlands and makes an excellent day trip from the historical sights of the Cultural Triangle.

Jim’s Farm, Pallepola

Dambulla cave temples Cut into a granite outcrop rising high above the surrounding plains, the Dambulla caves have been a place of pilgrimage for over 2,000 years. The earliest temples here are thought to date back to the 1st century BC and over successive reigns new additions were completed to form the present complex of five separate cave temples. About 150 magnificent paintings and statues of Buddha adorn the caves, remarkably well preserved and still visited by the faithful who make the daily climb to place offerings and light incense. The largest of the caves features a colossal 15-metre-long reclining Buddha as well as a number of vivid frescoes and a huge array of smaller Buddha statues. Outside, the views over the countryside are equally impressive and well worth the climb to the summit.

Amaya Lake, Dambulla

Jim’s Farm, Pallepola In beautiful countryside between Dambulla and Kandy, this large organic farm offers a taste of rural Sri Lankan life. The 14 guest rooms are located in three large classical villas furnished with teak and rattan furniture made by local craftsmen and constructed in traditional style with vaulted wooden ceilings, lime plaster walls and kumbuk wood flooring. Simple but luxurious, they are highly tranquil and offer great birdwatching right on your doorstep. There’s a lovely pool by the main lodge, Hilltop, where you’ll also find communal lounges where you can meet other guests. The farm is firmly rooted in the community and guests are invited to learn how to cook local foods, tour the grounds to learn about the cultivation of coconuts, cinnamon, coffee and cocoa, or visit local village temples where resident monks are happy to explain the traditions of Sri Lankan Buddhism.

With a scenic setting on the shores of Kandalama Lake and overlooking dramatic hills, this large hotel has a tranquil, traditional charm. The 120 rooms are set across the spacious grounds and vary from classically-styled cottages with rammed earth floors and walls to air-conditioned chalets with international styling. An impressive swimming pool and large airy restaurant form the heart of the resort where you’ll also find the two Ayurvedic centres which offer a wide range of treatments. Interior of a cave temple, Dambulla

Amaya Lake, Dambulla

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Snack stall on the beach, Jaffna

Off the beaten track Home to the Hindu Tamil people since ancient times and more recently isolated by civil war for decades, northern Sri Lanka is quite unlike the rest of the country. Its unique culture and character are more reminiscent of southern India than Sri Lanka, and its colonial charm, remote temples, isolated beaches and interesting national parks make it a fascinating place to explore. The civil war ended in 2009 and the region is slowly rebuilding its infrastructure and transport links. Travel here is still a bit of an adventure but for those willing to take it on, the rewards make it worthwhile.

Worshippers at a Hindu temple, Jaffna

Fruit stall, Jaffna

Jaffna A colonial stronghold occupied by the Dutch, the Portuguese and then the British, Jaffna is slowly emerging from its turbulent war years and rebuilding its damaged streets and its pride. Out of bounds until 2010, the city still shows obvious signs from the conflict. Its grand old fort, colonial-era churches, library and merchant houses crumble gracefully next to colourful temples, shrines and ancient palaces. Closer to India than Colombo, the town has a vibrant Tamil culture and this, as much as its physical attractions, is the reason to visit. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll immediately notice the difference to the rest of Sri Lanka, from the local language and music to the food and dress. Beyond the town more treasures await on the Jaffna Peninsula where remote temples, pretty beaches and hidden hot springs see fewer visitors still. Although the choice of hotels and restaurants in Jaffna is still limited, you will be rewarded with a glimpse of an area well off the beaten track, which is unlikely to remain this way for long.

Wilpattu National Park One of Sri Lankaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most popular national parks before the onset of war, Wilpattu is also one of its oldest and largest and is slowly opening up to visitors after a 16 year closure. Although only a quarter of the protected area is open, it is still larger than other Sri Lankan national parks and thanks to a lack of visitors, extremely tranquil. Wilpattu gets its name from the unique water-filled depressions or Willus, that are prevalent here and which provide a lush habitat for elephants, sloth bears and water buffaloes as well as the elusive leopard. Along with these species youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re likely to spot sambar, mongoose, monitor lizards and crocodiles as well as a huge number of birds. Wilpattu makes a convenient and rewarding stop en route to Jaffna with accommodation in comfortable permanent camps.

Red-wattled lapwing, Wilpattu National Park

Man with his bike, Trincomalee

Tiru Koneswaram Temple, Trincomalee

Auto rickshaw, Trincomalee

Beach near Passikudah

Jungle Beach, Trincomalee

Trincomalee Sri Lanka’s east coast is another region emerging from the shadow of the civil war, its beautiful towns and beaches starting to redevelop now the conflict has ended. This region enjoys warm dry weather in the summer months making it a good alternative to other parts of Sri Lanka which are wet at this time. Although gaining in popularity, the east coast beaches are still much less visited than those along the southwest coast. Trincomalee is the major town in the area and is a historic place, set around one of the world’s finest natural harbours which has been in use since ancient times. Age-old temples, a Dutch fort and vibrant Tamil culture give it a character beyond the more functional port and naval bases here. Overlooking the town is Tiru Koneswaram, a significant Hindu temple complex built on a rock and offering spectacular views of the harbour.

Nestled between the Indian Ocean and a lagoon brimming with colourful birdlife, Jungle Beach is a wonderful escape for those seeking to get off the beaten track. High thatched roofs and local materials give the resort charm and character but inside the 48 villas and cabins, dark wooden fittings, whitewashed walls and warm colour schemes have a more contemporary style. Teak walkways lead to the dining area and floating lounge where you can enjoy sophisticated Sri Lankan cuisine, while the blissful beach is just a few steps away. Enjoy tai chi and pilates sessions on the sand, excellent snorkelling or reef diving nearby, or explore the forest with the in-house naturalist to see some of the exotic birdlife.

Passikudah A small east coast village famous for its beautiful bay and gently shelving golden sands, Passikudah is an excellent choice for summer trips. While Sri Lanka’s southern and western beaches endure the rain and humidity of the monsoon, Passikudah is sunny and dry. The gorgeous bay here is sheltered by a reef that stretches across its mouth creating calm water and safe, sandy beaches ideal for families. Beautiful corals and schools of fish teem around the reef making for great snorkelling. You can also take a short trip to Batticaloa, a laid-back city with a huge fortress and plenty of churches which overlook a glassy lagoon.

Maalu Maalu, Passikudah Set on the pristine Passikudah beach, Maalu Maalu draws inspiration from the design of local fishermen’s huts, its low-rise timber-clad buildings stylish but simple in their approach. Inside, dark woods and bright fabrics combine with modern artworks and polished concrete bathrooms. There are 40 rooms and suites to choose from, with Attic Rooms providing plenty of space for families. With a lovely pool and spa, a choice of restaurants and free yoga and meditation sessions, it is a great place to just sit back and unwind.

Maalu Maalu, Passikudah

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Decorated entrance to the Temple of the Tooth, Kandy

Kandy A pretty lakeside city home to one of the country’s most sacred sites, Kandy is Sri Lanka’s second largest urban centre. Bustling yet relaxed, it is a handsome place of brightly coloured buildings set against a backdrop of verdant hills. The climate here is cooler than other parts of the country and it’s an interesting place to explore. The object of many pilgrims’ attention, the ‘Temple of the Tooth’ is the city’s best-known sight. A grand temple housing one of Buddha’s teeth, it is a lively place by night. Kandy is also something of a cultural centre and is renowned for its colourful and acrobatic performances best seen during the ten-day Perahera, Sri Lanka’s most famous festival held in July or August. Timed in accordance with the lunar calendar, it is a wonderful spectacle with dancers and musicians thronging the streets. Kandy is centrally located and easy to access from Colombo, the Cultural Triangle and the Tea Country.

Kandy House

Elephant Stables, Kandy This intimate boutique hotel blends colonial-era charm with a modern design. The six rooms and suites have mid-century furniture which contrasts with stylish touches. The small size of the property and the warm earthy tones used throughout give it a very welcoming atmosphere. The outdoor pool is an ideal place to relax and the restaurant serves a choice of authentic local and international cuisine. The hotel is set on a hill overlooking Kandy and has a choice of colonial-era cars waiting outside to take you on a tour of the city in style.

Kandy House One of Sri Lanka’s most atmospheric properties, this charming 200-year-old traditional bungalow has been converted into a beautiful boutique hotel with nine individually styled rooms. Everything here is done with real attention to detail from the pairing of the antique furniture and exquisite fabrics to the fresh cut flowers, excellent fusion food and highly personal service. The attractive pool overlooks the lush jungle garden, and relaxing here with a book or a cup of local tea, it’s hard to believe you are just a short drive from Kandy. An absolute gem, this chic property gets booked up well in advance so plan early if you’d like to experience the magic here.

Elephant Stables, Kandy

Ellerton, Kandy Set on a hilltop in the countryside just 18 kilometres from Kandy, Ellerton is a small hotel with a charming colonial air. Built for the manager of a tea estate over 100 years ago, it retains many of its period features and has a wonderfully tranquil, relaxed atmosphere. With just eight rooms, there’s fantastic attention to detail here as well as superb service. The rooms are located in either the original bungalow or the valley house by the swimming pool and offer spectacular views of the rolling hills which surround the estate.

Ellerton, Kandy

Evening at the Temple of the Tooth, Kandy

Haputale, near Nuwara Eliya

Tea harvest, near Hatton

Tea Country Sri Lanka’s central highlands are home to the country’s tea plantations, the cooler climate offering ideal conditions for tea cultivation and a welcome relief from the heat for visitors. Lush terraced hills blanketed in tea plants dominate the region, interrupted only by the bright splashes of colour of the local Tamil women tending the plants. The region is ideal for exploring on foot and it’s well worth visiting one of the tea factories to see how the tea is processed and blended. A number of historic properties in the region have been lovingly converted into atmospheric hotels and you can choose to stay in a restored tea planter’s bungalow or even a converted former factory. The most memorable way to get here is to take the scenic train ride from Kandy that winds up the hills through the plantations offering spectacular views of the lush surroundings.

Tea Trails, Hatton

Kandy lake

Tea Trails, Hatton Step back in time with a stay at one of the five exquisite bungalows stretched out along a valley in the heart of the tea growing region. Former estate managers’ homes, these achingly pretty heritage villas are set in stunning locations with magnificent views, each decorated in an individual style. Expect sweeping lawns and English gardens, antique books, prints and maps, silk cushions and striped footstools. The villas have between four and six rooms and come with their own swimming pool, manager, chef and butler.

Warwick Gardens, Nuwara Eliya Elegant and refined, this late 19 th-century planter’s home has been tastefully converted into a five room hotel with a charming old world ambience. Each of the spacious rooms retain period features alongside modern conveniences. They are decorated in a style sympathetic to the era with open fires, heavy drapes, antique furniture and local fabrics. Meals, using produce from the hotel’s own garden, are served communally in the beautiful dining room with its baby grand piano and sparkling chandelier. Warwick Gardens enjoys a delightfully isolated setting with magnificent views but is well located for trips to nearby Nuwara Eliya and Horton Plains.

Train journeys One of Sri Lanka’s most scenic train journeys departs from Kandy and gently winds its way up through the hills to the Tea Country. Passing dramatic landscapes en route, the journey offers views of magnificent mist-clad hills and waterfalls, and passes right through working tea plantations dotted with colourfully dressed Tamil women tending the crop. A wonderfully gentle and leisurely way to travel, you will be met at your destination by your driver who will take you to your chosen accommodation so that you can continue exploring this lovely region under your own steam.

Warwick Gardens, Nuwara Eliya

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Leopard, Yala National Park

Wildlife The diversity of Sri Lanka’s landscape from coastal mangroves to dry plains and lush mountain valleys means that this small island supports an incredibly diverse range of flora and fauna. The country is home to numerous national parks with high densities of wildlife. Elephants roam in large herds and can be easily seen; leopards and sloth bears prove more elusive, but wild buffalo and boar, several different species of monkey and deer, as well as monitor lizards, crocodiles and a profusion of birdlife are frequently spotted. A park ranger will accompany you in your private jeep on all game drives through the parks and although their English is limited, your driver-guide will be on hand to translate. In recent years Sri Lanka has gained a reputation for its whale watching. From December to April blue and sperm whales, as well as large schools of spinner dolphins, come close to the southern shores providing a wonderful opportunity to observe these graceful creatures.

Horton Plains A superb park for walkers and birders, Horton Plains is a huge high-altitude reserve on the edge of the central massif. This cool and misty area has a unique ecosystem with wide stretches of cloud forest among the lush grasslands. At ‘World’s End’ the plateau drops more than 700 metres to the lowlands and an early morning visit before the mist settles promises a truly magical experience. Horton Plains is just one hour from Nuwara Eliya. Uda Walawe National Park Rivalling East Africa’s reserves for its elephant sightings, Uda Walawe is a stunning park of open scrubland set against the dark hills of the Horton Plains. The sparse vegetation and large, relaxed herds of elephants here mean that sightings are common, and if you are lucky, you may even catch a glimpse of young calves being guided along by their mothers. Wild buffalo, macaque and langur monkeys, spotted and sambar deer, crocodiles and large lizards are also frequently spotted. Serpent eagles soar overhead before swooping into the tall grassland to catch their quarry, and during the wet season a wide range of birds flock to the park’s reservoir.

home is to rehabilitate elephants whilst emulating their natural habitat. You can watch the youngsters stampede and trumpet, eager for their food, from a viewing platform. Yala National Park A wild and unspoilt area, much of which is inaccessible to visitors, Yala National Park is Sri Lanka’s most popular. A vast area of dry woodland and open grassland studded by rocky outcrops, the park also encompasses tranquil lagoons and dramatic coastline. This varied terrain supports a diverse range of wildlife, including one of the highest densities of leopard in Asia. Although still difficult to spot, an early morning or late evening safari here offers one of your best chances of ever seeing these elusive creatures in the wild. Elephants can be easily spotted by the water’s edge between October and May, while peacocks pick through the trees, monkeys swing overhead, painted storks wade through the shallows and crocodiles bask in the sun.

Just outside the park the Elephant Transit Home provides assistance to sick, injured or orphaned young elephants who might otherwise not survive. The purpose of the Elephant Transit Home, Uda Walawe National Park

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Painted stork, Yala National Park

Whale watching Mirissa, a pretty village on the southern tip of Sri Lanka, is the centre of the country’s new found reputation for whale watching. The initiative began in the wake of the devastating 2004 tsunami when a group of local fishermen started to explore the possibilities of organising whale watching excursions to provide employment for young local people. Between December and April both blue and sperm whales feed only a short boat ride away from the coast and it soon became apparent that sightings were frequent. Although a sighting cannot be guaranteed, we work with a reputable and sustainable company that knows the waters well, making the chances of spotting these graceful creatures more probable. If you are unlucky enough to miss the whales, you will almost certainly be entertained by the playful spinner dolphins which ply these waters in great numbers. Minneriya National Park Renowned for its wild elephants, Minneriya is dominated by its large tank, or ancient manmade reservoir, which attracts and supports wildlife throughout the year. The wetlands here are home to myriad bird species while the dense forests and dry scrubland hide wild buffalo, spotted deer, and the occasional leopard or sloth bear. The park forms part of an elephant corridor through a series of national parks and during the dry season the reservoir here evaporates leaving juicy tender shoots and plants that draw huge herds from the surrounding area. Minneriya is located in the heart of the Cultural Triangle and it is easy to enjoy a half day here between visiting the ancient attractions of the area.

Young blue whale, near Mirissa

Sinharaja Biosphere The largest stretch of virgin lowland rainforest in Sri Lanka, the Sinharaja Biosphere is an extraordinary place sheltering a wealth of endemic species, rare flora and fauna and a huge array of birdlife. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its incredible biodiversity, the park is a truly amazing place for nature lovers. Narrow paths cut through stands of towering trees and lush vegetation and a local guide is indispensable in spotting the amphibians, reptiles and small mammals hiding in the dense growth and for identifying the many birds, butterflies and exotic plants you’ll encounter on a walk here. Orange minivets, orioles, babblers and the endangered purplefaced leaf monkey can all be spotted here, but you’d be advised to start early to get in a few hours’ walking before the daily rains descend.

Green forest lizard, Sinharaja Biosphere

Gal Oya National Park Off the beaten track and largely undiscovered, the beautiful Gal Oya National Park in Sri Lanka’s southeast encompasses four protected areas and a large swathe of lush evergreen forest surrounding the vast Senanayake Samudra, Sri Lanka’s largest reservoir. The large elephant herds are the main draw here and it is often possible to see elephants swimming across the lake from island to island. The best way to see this spectacle is by boat, and Gal Oya is the only national park to offer this. The park was off limits during the civil war and still sees few visitors, leaving you to enjoy it in all its glory. Ideal for walking and birdwatching, it is less developed than the more popular parks with just a handful of accommodation options.

Purple-faced leaf monkey, Sinharaja Biosphere

Elephants, Minneriya National Park

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Galle

Galle Sri Lanka’s best preserved colonial town, Galle, sits on a headland and is surrounded by water on three sides. Although a modern city has developed outside it, within the huge ramparts and bastions of the old town things seem remarkably unchanged in centuries. Over the years the Portuguese, Dutch and British all left their mark on this magical place and today the old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, its quiet streets lined with grand period villas, churches, warehouses and a plethora of tiny shops, galleries, artists’ studios and hotels. The fort area, as it is known, is quite small and easy to explore on foot. One of the greatest pleasures is simply wandering the tangle of streets and soaking up the atmosphere.

Amangalla, Galle

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Galle Fort Hotel Set in a charming colonial mansion built around a tranquil inner courtyard, this beautiful period property exudes an air of gentility and offers a taste of bygone days. There are 11 comfortable guest rooms in this 17th-century gem, formerly the home of a merchant with the Dutch East India Company. Simple but elegant in style, they feature antique furniture, shuttered windows and ceiling fans. Guests can enjoy the quiet courtyard pool, a choice of yoga sessions and beauty treatments, and local cuisine in the restaurant.

Amangalla, Galle Galle’s most opulent heritage hotel with a strong period character, Amangalla offers guests the opportunity to simply step back in time. This grand former governor’s house has been intricately restored, its 300-year-old teak and jackwood floors polished to perfection and adorned with period pieces that ooze a sense of understated luxury. The 28 rooms and suites feature carved four-poster beds, antique writing desks, ancient maps and either French doors or large windows that bathe the rooms in light. Dine in the Great Hall, relax in the serene library, indulge in a treatment in the spa or cool off in the pool set in the 200-year-old gardens, whatever you choose to do, this beautiful property will linger long in the memory.

Galle Fort Hotel

Fort Printers, Galle This quirky 18 th-century mansion is set in the heart of the old town, where it operated as a private home, bank, school and finally a print works before it was lovingly-restored and reopened as a 13 suite hotel. The hotel blends antique furniture and colonial charm with modern materials and contemporary style. The shaded courtyard provides a wonderful place to relax and dine, while the pool is ideal for a cooling dip after a day wandering the narrow streets of this historic town.

Fort Printers, Galle

Local fisherman, near Galle

Beach near Galle

Beach near Bentota

Roadside shops, Bentota

Club Villa, Bentota

Beaches Fringed by soft sands and swaying palms, Sri Lanka makes for a wonderful beach destination with clear waters and an excellent choice of locations, accommodation and activities to choose from. The most established beach destinations are on the southern and western shores where you can stay anywhere from a small boutique villa to an opulent five star resort. These beaches also combine well with time spent exploring the island’s cultural attractions such as the charming colonial town of Galle. Sri Lanka’s much less-visited east coast beaches make a wonderful alternative to the southwest coast, for anyone looking for something slightly off the beaten track or visiting between the months of May to September.

Designed by legendary Sri Lankan architect Geoffrey Bawa, this elegant Dutch-style villa is set in lush gardens near Bentota on the southwest coast. Inside, high ceilings, 19 th-century furniture, and classical styling give its 17 rooms and suites, a simple elegance that is matched by the relaxed atmosphere and highly attentive staff. The restaurant serves both Western and Sri Lankan cuisine, and evening meals are served on the lawn under the stars. Relax in the garden under the coconut palms, swim in the lovely pool or take a short stroll to the nearby beach. Adding to its character, the coastal railway runs through the end of the large garden with one or two trains per hour coming through each day.

Aditya, near Galle

Aditya, near Galle Set on a secluded and unspoilt stretch of beach just north of Galle, Aditya is a luxurious boutique hotel combining contemporary style with local charm. The 12 spacious suites are individually styled and each has its own character, though all feature high ceilings and modern styling softened by local art and antiques. Each suite has its own private plunge pool or you can relax by the beautiful main pool. The hotel gets consistently good reviews for its relaxed atmosphere and excellent service. You can also gain an insight into the local community by joining a village bicycle tour or accompanying the chef to the fish market and hotel kitchen to learn about Sri Lankan cooking.

ERA Beach, near Galle Built in the style of a grand colonial mansion, this beachside hotel south of Galle, blends the best of traditional and modern Asian design. Contemporary style and local detail combine to great effect in the eight chic rooms which feature crisp linens and modern bathrooms. Rooms open onto the well-tended gardens or onto balconies with sea views, which can also be enjoyed from the large saltwater swimming pool. Enjoy long walks on the beach before a meal in the restaurant, which serves continental, Asian fusion and classic Sri Lankan dishes. ERA Beach, near Galle

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Midigama beach, Weligama

Cape Weligama, Weligama Expertly managed and seriously stylish, Cape Weligama is one of Sri Lankaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s newest and most luxurious resorts. Perched on a clifftop overlooking the Indian Ocean, the 40 suites here are set in a series of villas clustered into groups which share pools, gardens and butlers. This layout cleverly affords the intimacy of a smaller setting while offering easy access to the full range of facilities expected in a larger hotel. The suites are spacious with great attention to detail and well-placed windows and doors providing idyllic views. A larger crescent-shaped infinity pool overlooks the ocean, and a variety of dining options are scattered through the grounds. Enjoy fresh seafood, authentic Japanese or traditional local cuisine, followed by a sunset cocktail in the waterfront pavilion.

Amanwella, Tangalle

Sleek and sophisticated, effortlessly stylish and gloriously indulgent, Amanwella is one of Sri Lankaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finest escapes. Set in a mature coconut grove overlooking a crescent-shaped beach, it offers unrivalled facilities and service and a choice of 27 beautiful suites. The resort is built from traditional materials but in a thoroughly modern style and the urbane suites come with private plunge pools and terraces. A huge infinity pool with an expansive terrace overlooks the ocean, spa treatments are available and excellent food can be enjoyed by the pool, at the Beach Club or in the main restaurant with its sublime views.

Coco Tangalla, Tangalle

Coco Tangalla, Tangalle A black and white colonial villa with six individually-styled rooms, Coco Tangalla overlooks the Indian Ocean. Although a period property, inside the decor is modern with simple but elegant whitewashed rooms featuring a combination of contemporary and antique furniture, bright silks and local artworks. A few steps down from the main house, sits an infinity pool in lovely gardens. Although swimming is not advised on the beach here, safe, sandy shores are just a short ride away. Cape Weligama, Weligama

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Fishing boats, Tangalle

Suggested itineraries Tailoring your trip

Jaffna

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a flavour of what is possible, and are routes that work particularly well. We can use these as a basis to plan your trip or can design a completely different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests. Call one of our Sri Lanka specialists to start planning your itinerary.

Wilpattu National Park Polonnaruwa Dambulla

Galle

Most of the trips that we organise follow a clockwise route around the island. The best way to travel is with one of our driver-guides who will drive you between your chosen destinations and help you to explore the cities and sights en route. Some visitors also include a train journey in their itinerary; travelling by rail through the tea plantations and hills of central Sri Lanka is a great experience and guarantees spectacular scenery.

When to go Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun

Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

33 33 33

Kandy Colombo

Yala National Park Uda Walawe National Park

Discover Sri Lanka’s cultural highlights on this itinerary. It also offers a chance to explore the less-visited northern Tamil regions which showcase a very different side of the country.

Day 1

Fly overnight to Colombo.

Day 1

Fly overnight to Colombo.

Day 2

Transfer to the Cultural Triangle, home to ancient capitals.

Day 2

Continue on to Kandy, Sri Lanka’s cultural capital.

Day 3

Climb the impressive Sigiriya Rock before taking an afternoon safari.

Day 3

Day 4

Explore further on a morning safari, visit the royal city of Polonnaruwa, and have the afternoon at leisure.

Visit the Temple of the Tooth, Peradeniya Botanical Gardens and enjoy some traditional dancing and drumming.

Day 4

Head north to the 1st-century Dambulla caves.

Day 5

Discover Sri Lanka’s impressive flora at Kandy’s botanical gardens.

Scale the impressive Sigiriya Rock and visit the temples of Polonnaruwa.

Day 6

Take the train to the heart of the Tea Country and visit a tea factory.

Drive north to the ancient capital of Anuradhapura.

Day 7

Enjoy an early morning walk around Horton Plains, afternoon at leisure.

Explore Anuradhapura and visit the pilgrimage site of Mihintale.

Day 8

Spot wildlife and exotic plants at Wilpattu National Park.

Day 9

Drive north to the less-visited Tamil region of Jaffna.

Day 10

Explore colonial backwaters, colourful Hindu temples, Jaffna Fort or enjoy the local hot springs.

Day 5

Day 6 Day 7 Day 8

Transfer to Kandy visiting the Dambulla caves en route and the Temple of the Tooth on arrival.

Day 9

Transfer to Yala National Park.

Day 10

Morning and afternoon game drives in search of leopards and other wildlife.

Day 11

Continue to Uda Walawe National Park, enjoy an afternoon game drive.

Day 12

Visit the Elephant Transit Home before driving to the Sinharaja Biosphere.

Day 11

Make your way to the coast or visit an island offshore.

Day 12

Visit Sinharaja Biosphere before travelling to Galle.

Travel southeast to coastal Trincomalee.

Day 13

Explore or relax on the beach.

Day 14

Fly to Colombo to connect with your international flight.

Time difference: GMT+5.5 hours

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices for your trip to Sri Lanka on our website, alternatively please call our specialists to discuss your plans.

Polonnaruwa

This itinerary offers an opportunity to discover Sri Lanka’s unique flora and fauna as well as visiting some of the country’s better-known cultural sites.

5 Travel is not recommended.

Prices

Sigiriya

Northern Sri Lanka

Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year.

With pleasant temperatures and sunshine year round Sri Lanka can be visited at any time of year. There is no one time when conditions are ideal across the country and short showers can be expected at any time. From late May to late September the Yala monsoon brings rain to the southwest lowlands and central hills, while the weaker Maha monsoon affects the northeast from November to February. March to mid-April is generally dry throughout the country, while June to September is hot and sticky in the Cultural Triangle and humid on the west coast. The hill country remains cooler throughout the year thanks to its elevation.

Mihintale

On the Leopard’s Trail

33 The best time to travel. 3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.

Horton Plains

Sinharaja Biosphere

Getting around

Dambulla

Kandy Colombo

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Anuradhapura

Sigiriya

Trincomalee

Day 13 Day 14

Guided tour of colonial Galle, afternoon at leisure.

Day 15

Day at leisure to enjoy the local beaches.

Day 16

Transfer to the airport for your international flight.

Stay longer Sri Lanka can easily be combined with time in the idyllic Maldives, less than an hours’ flight away. Alternatively, Sri Lanka’s closest neighbour, India, offers a host of attractions from bustling cities to rural retreats.

Fruit for sale, Colombo

www.audleytravel.com/srilanka • 01993 838 335 • Sri Lanka

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The Maldives A

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If you would like to combine time exploring cultural attractions or heritage-rich destinations with time on a pristine Maldivian beach, it is easy to arrange. Our specialists have the knowledge and experience to prepare a seamless itinerary of this type, taking into account your interests, budget and time frame. Sri Lanka is particularly well connected with the Maldives with frequent flights between Colombo and Male. Exploring Sri Lanka’s highlights followed by time on an idyllic Maldivian island is a popular combination.

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Maldives as part of a longer journey

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There are so many beautiful resorts in the Maldives that it can be hard to choose where to go. Unlike other tour operators who tend to offer a large number of resorts, we have hand-picked our favourites based on our knowledge, personal experience of the islands and the feedback we receive from returning guests. We have selected properties in a range of styles and budgets to give you a varied choice. We feature resorts with intimate spas and a romantic atmosphere, luxurious over-water accommodation and good value beach cottages just a short swim from vibrant coral reefs. Even a few nights here will provide a sense of pure escapism and can offer the ultimate end to a more adventurous trip elsewhere in the Indian Subcontinent.

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mere mention of the Maldives conjures up images of pure white sands, turquoise waters and colourful reefs teeming with tropical fish. This Indian Ocean paradise exceeds all expectations, the pristine beaches are whiter than you could possibly imagine and the accommodation ever more stylish. Many of the resorts here are set on their own private island and while some are among the most exclusive places to stay, others are more modest, but still luxurious, and have equally good access to the sugar-white sands, world-class snorkelling and diving, and indulgent spas that are a speciality here. Learn to dive, take a boat trip or just sit back and relax, there couldn’t be anywhere finer to choose to do very little at all. Along with standalone trips, the Maldives combine well with other countries in the subcontinent, and make a perfect place to relax after some cultural exploration or a more demanding leg of your trip.

The Maldives also works well at the beginning or end of a trip to India, Nepal or Bhutan and gives you an opportunity to experience some of these countries’ most popular destinations as well as a few nights on the beach.

Fishing boat, the Maldives

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Diving in the Maldives

Snorkelling & Diving A collection of over 1,000 islands scattered in the Indian Ocean, the Maldives lie far from any significant landmass and are fed by nutrient-rich currents making them an unforgettable destination for a dive holiday. Whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re a first-time diver, a timid snorkeller or an old hand, the incredible marine life and choice and variety of dive sites will simply blow you away.

Hawksbill turtle

Your resort On-site dive centres, house reefs and professional guides and instructors make diving here very simple to arrange. We take your safety seriously, all the resorts we feature have modern, well-maintained equipment and operate in line with the strictest safety standards. Each resort has its own instructors and offers basic open-water dive training to refresher and specialist courses. The vibrant house reefs here provide a stunning location to learn to dive and often boast a similar range of marine life as sites further off shore. Ideal for snorkelling too, you can borrow snorkelling gear and swim out over the corals straight from the beach. More experienced divers, or those wishing to snorkel at sea, can join boat trips to the many diverse dive sites around the islands. Small group sizes and the opportunity to visit a variety of different sites means great flexibility for divers in terms of attraction and ability levels. Snorkelling in the Maldives

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Highlights The many channels surrounding the Maldivesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; atolls concentrate nutrients in the planktonrich waters, feeding a vast array of corals and soft sponges and attracting a variety of marine life rarely seen elsewhere in the world. Vast numbers of colourful fish ply the waters along with five species of turtle and large pelagics such as the graceful manta ray and the elusive whale shark. The safe, shallow waters surrounding the house reefs and calm atoll lagoons are amongst the most rewarding in the world for snorkellers and novice divers with many deep-sea species visible near the shore too. For more experienced divers the choice of dive sites is unsurpassed from gentle drift dives and swim throughs to cleaning stations, caverns and overhangs. Giant schools of fish shoot by, vivid gorgonians cling to the sand and parrotfish, wrasse and sweetlips seem to be everywhere at once. Diving here is an experience youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll remember forever.

Triggerfish

Staying in over-water accommodation

Huvafen Fushi, North Male Atoll

Tantalising images of stilted over-water bungalows looking out over a deep blue lagoon have fuelled a thousand daydreams and while the images are a faithful representation of many Maldivian resorts, they don’t tell the whole story. Along with the private decks offering instant access to

Stilted Water Villas, Baros

the water and unspoilt views of the glistening sea, it’s likely that your accommodation will be far closer to its neighbours than those villas on land so you’ll have slightly less privacy. Also, due to engineering constraints, over-water villas are typically built in shallow water over a sandy base, so diving into the ocean off your deck is unlikely to be a realistic option. Beach villas by comparison tend to be well spaced or secluded by lush vegetation so can feel more intimate and less exposed to the midday sun, but may also have compromised views or sea access. It’s important to take these considerations into account when booking to ensure you get the right accommodation for you.

Hibiscus flower

Over-water villa Huvafen Fushi, North Male Atoll

Huvafen Fushi, North Male Atoll Cutting-edge design and chic minimalism combine with traditional materials and excellent service in this indulgent resort where all the villas come with private pools. The thatched roof buildings blend into their tropical surroundings, but inside the clean lines and calming neutral colour schemes give it a designer feel. With only 44 villas, Huvafen Fushi is one of the Maldives’ smaller resorts and has a tranquil, intimate atmosphere. The spacious villas have vaulted ceilings, Bose surround sound systems and an iPod pre-loaded with a varied music collection.

Baros, North Male Atoll Contemporary, elegantly restrained design and a wonderful location make Baros one of the finest resorts in the Maldives. Despite its sleek and sophisticated design, Baros manages to maintain its local character, and with impeccable service and excellent food, it represents good value for money. There are 75 villas, located either on the beach with their own outdoor showers and walled gardens or right over the deep blue lagoon. These stilted Water Villas have a private deck and mesmerising views.

Regarded as one of the finest restaurants in the Maldives, the Lighthouse offers extravagant dining experiences, a diverse menu and extensive wine list. There are two other restaurants to choose from as well as the option to dine on a sandbank, on a platform overlooking the sea or on a luxury dhoni (a traditional wooden sailing boat). While here you can snorkel or dive along the reef, help with coral conservation, go fishing or island-hopping, or simply relax in the spa or next to the beautiful infinity pool.

The resort also boasts plenty of high-tech facilities such as the world’s first underwater spa which doubles up as a tropical aquarium by night when the resident marine biologist offers champagne tours. With a superb infinity pool, over-water gym, yoga pavilion, four restaurants and a specialist dive centre offering everything from basic dive training to underwater photography courses, you will be spoilt for choice when it comes to entertainment. Watch a film in the open-air cinema, sail, fish, canoe or windsurf, or just soak up the view while you can, because it’s going to be very hard to leave.

Baros, North Male Atoll

www.audleytravel.com/maldives • 01993 838 310 • The Maldives

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Aerial view of Velassaru, South Male Atoll

Cocoa Island by COMO, South Male Atoll

Velassaru, South Male Atoll

Velassaru, South Male Atoll A relaxed getaway in an idyllic spot, Velassaru is a thoroughly modern resort with a more sociable character than many other islands. Along with the seductive surroundings the hotel places a heavy emphasis on quality dining and there are five restaurants to choose from serving everything from Mediterranean to Japanese cuisine. The spa offers treatments in over-water pavilions or you can relax in the infinity pool, learn to dive at the onsite PADI centre, take a guided boat trip with the in-house marine biologists or try any number of water sports. There is also a varied programme of evening entertainment. The 129 villas here are well spaced in lush grounds and combine contemporary interiors with local design touches. Choose from beach bungalows with garden bathrooms, classic over-water bungalows or executive beachfront villas with private pools. Velassaru is accessed by a 30 minute speedboat journey from Male. 110

This chic and stylish resort is set on the less developed South Male Atoll and at low tide a long, curving sandbank is revealed which skirts a quiet reef ideal for snorkelling. Cocoa Island has a strong emphasis on well-being and offers a signature spa, a hydrotherapy pool and yoga sessions. Throughout the resort the design is deliberately calm, blending contemporary and indigenous styles to sophisticated effect. Wooden walkways join the 33 well spaced, over-water villas, all of which feature stylish furniture, high thatched ceilings and plenty of natural light. All are surprisingly spacious and have private decks with direct access to the turquoise waters below. The hotel serves a selection of seafood and organic produce which are combined with exotic local flavours in gourmet dishes. Cocoa Island is 40 minutes by speedboat from Male.

Cocoa Island by COMO, South Male Atoll

Honeymoons The ultimate tropical island destination with powdery sands, swaying palms, crystal-clear seas and a choice of superb accommodation with blissful spas, the Maldives are a wonderfully romantic place to honeymoon. Although only locals can marry here, many resorts include a wedding ceremony with a renewal of vows in their packages for newlyweds. Honeymooners will also be treated to a range of complimentary extras including champagne on arrival, a romantic dinner on the beach or in the privacy of your room, or a sunset cruise. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d like to spend some time relaxing on a beach in the Maldives after a more active start to your honeymoon elsewhere, this can easily be arranged. Take an adventurous trip around India, explore Sri Lankaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cultural highlights or even get a taste of the Himalaya in Nepal or Bhutan before retreating to your tropical island escape for an indulgent end to your trip. Our specialists will be happy to discuss all the options with you.

Suggested itinerary Tailoring your trip

Coral reef, the Maldives

The itinerary shown is designed to give you an idea of how you might combine a trip to see some of the Indian Subcontinent’s cultural highlights with some time relaxing in the Maldives. We can use this as a basis to plan your trip or can design a completely different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests. Call one of our India specialists to start planning your itinerary.

the maldives

sri lanka Anuradhapura Mihintale Sigiriya Polonnaruwa Dambulla

Male

Kandy Colombo

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Getting around

Hermit crab

All international flights into the Maldives arrive into Male from where you will either travel by boat or air to your hotel. Resorts within an hours’ boat ride will normally provide speedboat transfers while those further away are served by seaplane. These scenic flights provide a beautiful bird’s-eye view of the Maldives and may stop at several islands en route to their final destination.

When to go Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun

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Temples & Islands Explore Sri Lanka’s rich culture, historic sights and beautiful landscapes, spending time in its ancient cities and rolling tea hills before flying to the Maldives for idyllic relaxation on one of its beautiful island resorts. Day 1

Fly overnight to Colombo in Sri Lanka.

Day 2

Arrive and travel straight to the island’s Cultural Triangle and your hotel in Sigiriya.

Day 3

Explore the historic sights and highlights of Anuradhapura and Mihintale.

Day 4

Climb the impressive Sigiriya rock fortress and visit the ancient capital of Polonnaruwa.

Day 5

Travel south to Kandy visiting the incredibly preserved Dambulla caves en route.

Day 6

Explore Kandy’s botanical gardens before visiting the atmospheric Temple of the Tooth.

Day 7

Take a scenic train journey into the hills of the lush tea country.

Day 8

Enjoy a leisurely day with a tea tasting experience.

Day 9

Transfer closer to Colombo ready for an early flight to the Maldives.

Day 10

Fly to Male and then travel by seaplane or speedboat to your island resort.

Day 11

Relax and soak up the views on your chosen Maldivian island.

Day 12

Day at leisure at your resort.

Day 13

Final day to relax on your island getaway.

Day 14

Transfer back to Male to connect with your international flight home.

Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

33 The best time to travel. 3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.

Constance Moofushi, South Ari Atoll

The Maldivian dry season runs from December to April and is the best time to visit the islands. By May the southwestern monsoon starts to affect the weather and the wet season begins. It continues until November but the amount of rain can vary by the month and there is generally still plenty of sunshine throughout this time. Travelling in these months does have its advantages though, with fewer visitors and reduced prices. The temperature in the Maldives is a fairly steady 30C (86F).

In one of the Maldives’ best locations, Constance Moofushi offers plush accommodation, excellent food and outstanding service. The hotel is surrounded by lagoons, sandbanks and woodlands and has a very intimate atmosphere. Its pared-back rustic chic decor combines a contemporary design sensibility with natural local materials such as thatched palm roofs, bamboo, wicker and carved driftwood. With two bars and two restaurants, private dining and an extensive wine cellar, there’s a wide range of food and drink available. Moofushi also has a tranquil spa and a choice of water sports including windsurfing, kayaking and fishing but the real draw here is the snorkelling and diving. Located on the South Ari Atoll and with its own house reef, Moofushi is regarded as one of the best dive spots in the world. Large pelagic species such as mantas, whale sharks, dolphins and sea eagles all pass close by along with a diverse array of fish and smaller marine life including stingrays, sea cucumbers, lionfish, snappers and eels. Both novice and experienced divers are well catered for with a wide variety of dive sites in the immediate vicinity. Moofushi is a short seaplane trip from Male.

Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year.

5 Travel is not recommended.

Time difference: GMT+5 hours

Prices We offer trips to cater for a wide range of budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices for your trip to the Maldives on our website, alternatively please call our specialists to discuss your plans.

Combinations The Maldives is a perfect place to relax and unwind after any cultural trip and is easily accessed from India, Nepal and Bhutan too. Our specialists will be able to help with everything from travel logistics to resort recommendations. Dhoni, the Maldives

www.audleytravel.com/maldives • 01993 838 310 • The Maldives

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Nepal A

tiny mountain nation with a diverse array of attractions and landscapes, Nepal offers everything from serious mountain climbing to varied wildlife and devout spirituality. The country’s almost mythical allure is well justified and travel here is tinged with a frisson of excitement. With the Himalaya forming the backbone of Nepal, spectacular mountain scenery accompanies you wherever you go. These towering peaks are no longer the preserve of elite mountaineers however, and a wide variety of trekking options are available with lodges located in many remote mountain villages where you’ll get a taste of traditional life. Elsewhere, the country’s national parks are home to the elusive tiger, rare one-horned rhino and the endangered gharial crocodile. In the Kathmandu Valley ancient pagoda temples, palaces and pilgrimage sites offer a fascinating lesson in the history and culture of Nepal, while the capital, Kathmandu, is awash with temples and shrines. Wander its narrow back streets for a glimpse of hidden treasures or brave the bustling bazaars for an intoxicating mix of traditional crafts, exotic produce and local traders. Wherever you go you’ll be moved by the open and amiable nature of Nepal’s friendly people and their willingness to share their beautiful country.

Audley in Nepal The Himalaya dominate Nepal and for many visitors the chance to visit this iconic mountain range is a long-held dream. Our specialists have spent much of their time exploring and hiking in the region and are well placed to advise on routes and trip options. We can also recommend many fascinating experiences beyond the mountains, with less strenuous walking in the foothills, an exploration of Nepal’s rich culture in the Newari towns of Kathmandu Valley, and the search for the endangered Bengal tiger in the country’s national parks. Visitors are an important source of income for Nepal and they are reliant on this to help rebuild and reinvest in their infrastructure following the 2015 earthquake, where sadly both loss of life and damage was high. Our specialists can advise on the rebuilding progress, but we would encourage you to visit and help Nepal get back on its feet.

Accommodation Nepal’s range of accommodation means you can indulge in five star luxury in the city or spend the night under the stars on a remote mountainside. Kathmandu has the largest selection of hotels, ranging from historic boutique options to simple, family-run guesthouses. In popular trekking areas you will find comfortable accommodation with en suite rooms and hot running water, as well as a wide range of traditional teahouses which offer a basic but cosy place to stay. In more remote regions fully serviced camping is a fantastic option. In the national parks there is a range of accommodation all offering good access to the jungle. Nights are cold across Nepal and central heating is not a given, expect hot water bottles and thick blankets.

NEPAL Bardia National Park

TIBET Annapurna Sanctuary

Pokhara

Mt Everest

Bandipur

2 Chitwan National Park

1 Bhaktapur KATHMANDU

Sagarmatha National Park

Lukla

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80 kilometres

1 Bhaktapur Nepal’s best preserved medieval city-state is home to the finest religious architecture in the country. See page 114

2 Kathmandu’s bazaars Soak up the sights, sounds and smells of the city’s bustling bazaars as you haggle for spices, fabrics or an ornate butter lamp. See page 114

3 Chitwan National Park Explore this varied national park with its colourful birdlife, rare rhinos and elusive Bengal tiger. See page 118 4 Rafting

Get off the beaten track on a tranquil journey down the Seti Gandaki River surrounded by majestic mountain scenery. See page 115 Trekking Visit remote villages and enjoy spectacular scenery on a trek through Nepal’s Annapurna and Everest regions. See pages 116-117

Bhairabnath Mandir, Bhaktapur

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Bodnath stupa, Kathmandu

Kathmandu

Kathmandu Valley

A vibrant, complex and captivating city, Kathmandu is both an assault on the senses and a source of endless fascination. Its old town is a tangle of narrow streets where medieval temples, palaces and golden gates vie for attention while old men push handcarts bursting with exotic fruit, and an overwhelming number of rickshaws and motorbike drivers pass by, oblivious to the architectural splendour around them. The area is best experienced on foot in order to soak up the unique atmosphere and explore the quieter side streets, hidden squares and traditional bazaars. By comparison, the Thamel district, with its hotels, bars and shops, seems far removed from the time capsule of the old town. Outside the city, there are several striking Buddhist stupas worth a visit, including those at Swayambhunath, while nearby Pashupatinath, the most sacred Hindu site outside India, is a good place to see Nepali life unfold before your eyes.

At the heart of several ancient kingdoms, the Kathmandu Valley is home to seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites along with countless other temples, shrines, ceremonial plazas, stupas and statues. This incredibly rich cultural heritage is tempered however, by modern development as the valley is also Nepal’s most densely populated region. Within the Kathmandu ring road you’ll find the ancient city of Patan with its own Durbar Square lined with pagoda-style temples and statues that rival the capital’s. Further east, Bhaktapur is lost in another time, its cobbled pedestrian streets leading to beautiful squares and towering temples, some of the best preserved medieval architecture in the country. Wander the narrow lanes and you’ll see craftspeople working on the streets, communal courtyards where daily life continues as if unchanged in centuries and dedicated pottery squares where rows and rows of clay pots are laid out to dry in the sun.

Vegetable market, Kathmandu

114

Dwarika’s Hotel, Kathmandu

Dwarika’s Hotel, Kathmandu A testament to Nepal’s architectural heritage, this striking hotel features exquisitely carved wooden beams and frames rescued from the houses of old Kathmandu, custom-made furniture, local hand-crafted fabrics and many Newari motifs. The Dwarika’s is one of Kathmandu’s finest hotels and its strong traditional character and style are matched by excellent service and facilities. The 86 spacious rooms and suites are traditionally furnished while the pool is designed to resemble a 12th-century royal bath and provides ample space to relax at the end of a busy day. Renowned for its excellent Nepalese food, the hotel’s Krishnarpan restaurant offers a gourmet introduction to the varied produce and cooking techniques used across the country and is one of the best spots to dine. On Friday nights a traditional Nepali barbecue is accompanied by live music in the Fusion bar.

Local lady, Kathmandu Valley

Rafting Run off from Nepal’s towering peaks feeds a multitude of rivers that vary from wild white-water rapids to gentle streams meandering across farmland. With rivers properly graded and a wide range of trips available, rafting is a fantastic way to discover some of the country’s hidden reaches and uninhabited valleys. A popular option is the two-day route between Pokhara and Chitwan National Park along the Seti Gandaki River. Although a more adventurous alternative to the road, this is a leisurely trip along gentle rapids and stretches of calm water with overnight accommodation at a comfortable permanent tented camp on the banks of the river.

Rowing boats on Lake Phewa, Pokhara

Tiger Mountain Lodge, Pokhara

Dhulikhel & Nagarkot Set on the lip of the Kathmandu Valley bowl, the beautiful, medieval villages of Dhulikhel and Nagarkot offer a taste of rural Nepali life and staggering views. Walking from either village is very rewarding and can be as strenuous or as gentle as you wish. Venture above the charming Newari village of Dhulikhel, which sits at 1,470 metres, to be rewarded with superb views of the Himalayan range and Kathmandu Valley. Or head to Nagarkot, at 2,175 metres, which offers a spectacular panorama reaching from the Annapurnas all the way to Kanchenjunga on the Sikkim border. Although there is little in the way of facilities, the views alone are worth a visit.

Pokhara

Bandipur

Tiger Mountain Lodge, Pokhara Set on a ridge above the Pokhara Valley, Tiger Mountain Lodge offers some of the best accommodation in the region and spectacular views of Dhaulagiri, Annapurna and Manaslu Himal. There are 13 stone bungalows here decked out with slate and parquet flooring, Tibetan rugs, handmade furniture, local artwork and large windows to maximise the staggering views. Each has an en suite bathroom and private veranda. At the heart of the lush grounds is a beautiful swimming pool, a great place to relax after a guided walk in the area. There are no televisions or telephones here so the atmosphere is incredibly relaxed and the food is excellent, much of it sourced from the property’s own organic garden.

Bandipur The sleepy village of Bandipur seems lost in time and untouched by modernisation. Tall, traditional Newari mansions with elaborate façades and shuttered windows line the cobbled streets and hark back to the village’s glory days as a commercial centre along the trade route to Tibet. As money trickles in from visitors the town’s many temples and traditional houses are slowly being restored and with motorised vehicles prohibited along the main street, it feels much like an open-air museum. Bandipur is set on a ridge about 1,000 metres above the valley floor and overlooks the incredible expanse of the Marsyangdi River Valley.

Old Bandipur Inn, Bandipur Two of Bandipur’s most atmospheric timber and brick Newari houses have been lovingly converted into a charming and quirky inn on the main street. Exposed beams, whitewashed brick walls, carved wooden doors and a fascinating collection of local textiles give the property a unique charm. Each of the 20 rooms is individual in style and varies in size as original layouts and architectural features have been preserved. Some rooms open out onto the traffic-free bazaar, others onto the open courtyard that overlooks the mountains. The food is good and meals are eaten communally, but if you want to slip away just head for the secret rooftop garden.

Nepal’s second largest city is set on the edge of a lakeside and enjoys a spectacular location surrounded by some of the world’s highest mountains. The sacred Machhapuchare, or Fishtail Mountain, is just one of the jagged peaks of the Annapurna Range which can be seen and has made Pokhara a magnet for hikers and serious mountaineers. A wide variety of treks start from here, including day hikes and longer forays into the upper slopes. This relaxed city, with its unhurried atmosphere, is also good for a few days’ leisure with the option of boating on Lake Phewa. The Old Bandipur Inn, Bandipur

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Annapurna region

Walking & Trekking in Nepal Nepal is dominated by the imposing peaks of the Himalaya and with 80% of the country mountainous, it has long attracted climbers and trekkers from all over the world. The best known routes to Everest Base Camp or around the Annapurnas traverse pristine terrain but necessitate a certain degree of fitness and in some cases mountain experience. Equally impressive lower altitude walking routes criss-cross the hills following centuries old supply routes used by traders, nomads and farmers who eke out a living here. These shorter and less challenging treks are our speciality and take in some of the most scenic parts of Nepal’s Himalaya. With the guidance of one of our specialists you will be able to choose an appropriate trek ranging from day walks to multi-day hikes of typically three to ten nights. It is essential to consider the effects of altitude when planning any walking, taking into account the steepness of the trails and the amount of walking you wish to do each day. These routes have many accommodation options, from cosy lodges to fully serviced camps. We provide a private guide for each trip and, where necessary, porters for whom we strictly adhere to the equipment, weight limit and remuneration standards set out by the International Porter Protection Group.

Lodges in the Annapurna region

Himalaya Lodge, Ghandruk

Trekking in the Annapurna region The huge peak of Annapurna I, the tenth highest mountain in the world, dominates the renowned Annapurna Conservation Area which sits just northwest of Kathmandu. The region is one of Nepal’s most popular trekking areas and the lakeside town of Pokhara is the main hub and starting point for hikers. Easily accessible, Pokhara is set against a stunning backdrop that tempts you to get out on foot and explore. Treks of anything from two nights to two weeks can be arranged from here and we can tailor a trip to suit your interests and abilities. Accommodation while trekking can be in traditionally constructed lodges with extremely comfortable en suite rooms and a roaring fire for the cool evenings, or on longer treks into more remote regions, in the traditional mountain teahouses, which provide simple but authentic and friendly places to stay.

Set in breathtaking locations and spread out across the Annapurna region, Ker & Downey’s lodges provide some of the best accommodation. Built and operated with trekkers in mind, they make the ideal base for a number of different walking routes with multiple lodge combinations possible. Treks range in length from one or two days on moderate trails, walking roughly three hours per day, to more strenuous five day treks with an average of four to five hours walking each day. Treks begin on the road-head just outside Pokhara but you’ll soon climb deep into the hills with spectacular scenery all around you. Each route is planned to maximise your experience with fantastic views, a taste of local life in the small, friendly villages en route, and comfortable accommodation, roaring fires and hearty three course meals at the end of the day.

Trekking in the Everest region

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Walking in the Everest region

Trekking in the Everest region Sparsely populated and extremely humbling, the rugged terrain that makes up Nepal’s Everest region is just as impressive as you imagine. Small Sherpa villages and Buddhist monasteries dot the region, their inhabitants unfailingly friendly despite the realities of living in such an inhospitable place. Roads in this area are non-existent and climbers tend to fly into Lukla which is situated at 2,800 metres. A supply base and starting point for most treks, it is little more than a busy transport hub but it is from here that the trail up to Namche Bazaar, Tengboche and on towards Base Camp begins. Walking here is not easy. The trails are steep and the exhausting effects of the high altitude must be taken seriously, but for those who make it here the rewards are manifold.

Luxury Lodges in the Everest region Ten luxury lodges are scattered across the Everest region providing a welcome respite from the physical demands of a long day on the mountains. There are five Yeti Mountain Homes and five Everest Summit Lodges, all providing comfortable en suite accommodation, hot showers, and excellent three course meals. Set in mesmerising locations and decorated in typical Tibetan style, they are a wonderful introduction to life in this region.

Everest Summit Lodge Mende

Local teahouses For a simpler, more authentic mountain experience and a degree of flexibility in your walking routes, traditional local inns, or teahouse lodges, are a good option. Located in practically every village along the popular trekking routes, they provide basic accommodation and few mod cons. Rooms are generally small and may be badly insulated so it is well worth bringing a good-quality down jacket and sleeping bag to keep out the cold. Bathrooms are usually shared and often outside but on the plus side your money goes straight into the local community and you will meet plenty of like-minded travellers in the common area which is usually warmed by a traditional cow-dung burning stove. It is also possible to tackle a trekking route that combines stays in local teahouses with some nights at the more luxury lodges giving you the best of both worlds. Our specialists will be happy to advise you on routes whichever option you choose.

Annapurna & Everest regions combined For a comprehensive overview of the country and its trekking possibilities, it is easy to combine trips to both Annapurna and Everest. It is best to acclimatise in Annapurna’s lower altitudes where the walking is a bit less strenuous before heading back to Kathmandu and on to Lukla. The trekking here in the high mountains around Everest is more demanding but the scenery is very different and even more dramatic than in the Annapurna region.

Cobbled street, Lukla

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Dugout canoes, Chitwan National Park

Scenic Everest flight Nepal’s spectacular mountain scenery is best appreciated from the air and a scenic flight on a small aircraft offers unparalleled views of the world’s highest peaks. The flights depart from Kathmandu early in the morning when the skies are clear and the air is still for the very best views of the magnificent Himalaya and the mighty Everest. The aircraft have a maximum of 16 seats and flights only take place in ideal conditions due to the volatile nature of the weather at high altitudes.

Chitwan & Bardia National Parks

Purple sunbird, Bardia National Park

Everest by helicopter For an exclusive Everest experience and spectacular views of the Earth’s highest peaks, a private helicopter flight from Kathmandu to Everest Base Camp is hard to beat. Although your exact route will depend on weather and wind conditions on the day, your pilot will fly over Everest Base Camp and on up the mountain possibly to the Khumbu icefall, the Cho La Pass at 5,595 metres, and over the sacred Gokyo lakes to a landing spot at Kongde, at 4,250 metres. You will breakfast here against a staggering mountain backdrop before returning to Lukla to refuel for the flight back to Kathmandu. Throughout the trip you will be accompanied by an Everest summiteer whose intimate knowledge of the mountains will provide you with additional insight into the geography and culture of the region.

Gokyo Tso Lake, Sagarmatha National Park

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Chitwan and Bardia national parks are characterised by river plains and steaming jungle, home to sizeable populations of the Bengal tiger, one-horned rhinos, elephants, leopards, crocodiles and prolific birdlife. Chitwan is Nepal’s oldest national park and is easily reached from Kathmandu or Pokhara, while Bardia lies to the far west and is harder to reach but has an enviable lack of visitors. You are likely to see an abundance of wildlife in either park, though sightings of the elusive tigers are infrequent. Boat trips are another excellent way to explore with trips in dugout canoes in Chitwan and rafting on the Karnali River which borders Bardia National Park. Both parks offer good jungle lodges and knowledgeable guides to help you make the most of your time in these unique environments.

One-horned rhino, Chitwan National Park

Suggested itineraries Tailoring your trip The itineraries shown are designed to give you a flavour of what is possible, and are routes that work particularly well. We can use these as a basis to plan your trip or can design a completely different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests. Call one of our Nepal specialists to start planning your itinerary.

tibet

nepal

Pokhara

The Sherpa’s Trail

A wonderful overview of Nepal’s finest attractions, this itinerary covers the medieval cities and ornate temples of the Kathmandu Valley, a chance to see the country’s abundant wildlife in Chitwan National Park, and an introduction to the Himalaya from bustling Pokhara.

A nirvana for trekkers, Nepal’s stunning mountain scenery offers some of the best hiking in the world. Escape civilisation on a medium level trek with a guide and porter that takes you into the heart of one of Nepal’s most popular regions. Day 1

Fly overnight to Kathmandu.

Day 2

Arrive in Kathmandu and explore the charms of the old town.

Day 3

Fly to Pokhara before trekking to the Sanctuary Lodge at Birethanti.

Day 4

Spend the day trekking through the scenic Annapurna region.

Day 5

Begin a three-day trek in the mountains, staying in luxury riverside lodges.

Trek to Tanchok and visit a local school.

Day 6

Ascend to the vibrant village of Ghandruk with its dramatic mountain backdrop.

Complete the trek and drive to Pokhara to catch your flight to Kathmandu.

Day 7

Early morning flight to Lukla before continuing on foot to Phakding.

Day 7

Enjoy an easy hike back down to the road and be driven back to Pokhara.

Days 8-9 Trek to Namche Bazaar and rest to acclimatise.

Day 8

Continue by road to the charming medieval Newari town of Bandipur.

Day 10

Trek to Thame through villages that have trading links with Tibet.

Days 9-11 Head overland to Chitwan National Park and explore on foot or by boat.

Day 11

Continue onwards to Tashinga via fascinating Sherpa villages.

Day 12

Fly from Chitwan to Kathmandu and transfer by road to Dhulikhel.

Day 12

Day 13

Take a short walk from town to enjoy mountain views.

Spend the day trekking to Monjo, stopping to enjoy the Tengboche Monastery.

Day 13

Travel back to Lukla and enjoy the final teahouse lodge.

Day 1

Day 4

Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

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33 The best time to travel. 3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.

Day 6

~ Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year. 5 Travel is not recommended.

October to December is an ideal time to visit Nepal as the skies are generally clear and the views spectacular. The weather remains dry until about April, but January and February can be cold, especially at night and although Kathmandu hotels and the luxury mountain lodges are heated, not all accommodation is. However, fewer visitors does mean the trekking trails are quieter at this time. In late spring the rhododendrons burst into bloom and from May heat and humidity levels build until the monsoon rains arrive in June and the clouds obscure those glorious mountain views. Time difference: GMT+5.75 hours

Prices We offer trips to cater for a wide range of budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices for your trip to Nepal on our website, alternatively please call our specialists to discuss your plans.

Fly overnight to Kathmandu.

Days 2-3 Arrive in Kathmandu. Explore the old town or discover the sacred sites of Kathmandu Valley.

Day 5

india

Discover Nepal

When to go Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun

nepal

india

Roads across Nepal are improving but do vary in quality; a level of patience is required as winding roads and slow moving traffic mean journey times are often unpredictable. We arrange a private car, driver, guides and porters if necessary, for you throughout your trip.

Lukla

Kathmandu

Chitwan National Park

Kathmandu, Nepal’s capital, is the main entry point for visitors. Short flights link the capital with Pokhara and Lukla, ideal for trekking in the Annapurna and Everest regions. Bardia and Chitwan national parks are also just a short flight away. We take aviation safety very seriously and only work with certain operators across the country, our specialists will advise you on the best options.

Kathmandu Dhulikhel

Getting around

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Everest region

Pokhara

Bandipur

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tibet Annapurna region

Annapurna region

Day 14

Enjoy a scenic flight to Pokhara, followed by an afternoon free to explore.

Return to Kathmandu to connect with your international flight.

Stay longer Cross the border into Northern India to see its iconic sights, head into the high mountain deserts of Tibet, or for a very different Himalayan experience, head to Bhutan.

Days 14-15 Fly back to Kathmandu and enjoy time at leisure. Day 16

Travel to the airport for your international flight.

Stay longer Venture further into Nepal to see its many cultural sights, explore a national park in search of wildlife, or simply extend the trek and acclimatise for longer.

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Bhutan F

iercely independent, staunchly traditional and largely untouched by the influence of the modern world, Bhutan is an enigmatic place with deep-rooted religious beliefs and a fundamental respect for the natural world. A remarkable example of sustainable development, Bhutan enforces a policy of high value, low impact tourism which reflects the government’s holistic Gross National Happiness model which prioritises quality of life over financial gain. With such lofty national ideals, a trip here is unlike visiting anywhere else on Earth. Law states that at least 60% of the land shall remain forested in perpetuity, and a percentage of income from every visit is spent on education, healthcare and the alleviation of poverty. Thanks to its strict controls, Bhutan remains one of the most biologically diverse countries in the world. Its majestic mountains and deep valleys are protected in a series of spectacular national parks punctuated by picturesque dzongs (fortresses), chortens (shrines) and small villages. Although more travellers are discovering Bhutan, most of the country remains unexplored. Make it to this remote Himalayan kingdom and you will never forget its spectacular beauty, unique outlook and fascinating culture.

Audley in Bhutan Bhutan fiercely guards its ancient traditions and operates a select entry policy for visitors. Although this ensures a unique experience, it makes it essential that your trip is both planned and operated extremely carefully. Our specialists have detailed, first-hand knowledge of the whole country, from the more developed west and centre to the enigmatic east where facilities are basic and visitors are few and far between. It is a government requirement that all visitors are accompanied by a driver and guide and we have worked hard to find the very best who are passionate and knowledgeable about their country, fairly-paid, and aware of the importance of your needs and interests. Most visitors arrive in Paro via Kathmandu, however there are a number of connections to destinations within India as well as Southeast Asia. It is also possible to fly from Calcutta to Guwahati in Assam and travel overland into Bhutan’s remote southeast.

Accommodation With strict controls and restricted development, accommodation options in Bhutan are limited. Some luxury properties with excellent facilities and service can be found in west and central Bhutan but most accommodation is simple but comfortable, with very few mid-range options anywhere in the country. The basic properties can vary considerably in standard however and our first-hand local knowledge ensures we are well placed to find the right accommodation for you. Last minute changes are common as Bhutanese hotels don’t confirm reservations until 60 days before arrival. Our experience with this and our extensive knowledge of accommodation options means we can deal with any unexpected changes quickly and effectively.

50 miles

80 kilometres

TIBET

Jomolhari

Punakha

Gangtey

THIMPHU

Paro

PHOBJIKHA VALLEY

BUMTHANG VALLEY

Jakar

Trashi Yangtse

Trongsa

BHUTAN

Trashigang Mongar Samdrup Jongkhar

Phuntsholing INDIA

1 Tiger’s Nest Clinging to a sheer cliff above a steep forested valley, Tiger’s Nest is one of the most breathtaking monasteries in the world. See page 122

Trekking Explore deserted valleys and camp overnight on a multi-day trek to truly appreciate the stunning landscapes and spectacular vistas. See page 123

Hot stone bath An ancient form of rejuvenation where red hot stones are placed in one end of a bath as you sit in the other; perfect for aching muscles after a walk in the hills.

2 Black-necked cranes Hugely significant to the Bhutanese and deeply revered, the rare and majestic blacknecked cranes winter in the temperate Phobjikha Valley. See page 124

Tsechus These vibrant religious festivals are important social gatherings held annually in each district and bring whole valleys to life with colourful costumes and enthusiastic dancing. See page 122

Dzongs These impressive defensive fortresses are used as administrative, religious and cultural centres and can be found in almost every valley. Wildflowers Bhutan’s steep valleys are flooded with colour in spring when spectacular rhododendrons and magnolias burst into bloom. Buddhism Brightly-clad monks can be seen everywhere; on the streets and in the temples and monasteries that abound here.

Masked performer, Trashigang

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Monks at Paro festival, Paro

Paro A charming town with colourfully painted shopfronts and a number of historic buildings, Paro is also home to the country’s only international airport and is where most trips to Bhutan start and end. This is a relatively wealthy area with rich agricultural land and the dzong here is one of the finest in Bhutan. An impressive fort guards the town and the watchtower now houses the fascinating National Museum. Paro’s most famous monument however, is the 17th-century Taktsang, or Tiger’s Nest monastery which hangs miraculously off a remote cliffside high on valley slopes. One of Bhutan’s holiest sites, it is a magical place often shrouded in mist. Guru Rinpoche is said to have flown here on the back of a tigress but mere mortals will have to walk for several hours through the forest to get here.

Uma Paro, Paro

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Gangtey Palace, Paro This former palace set on the valley slopes offers an authentic insight into the life of Bhutan’s aristocrats in times past. Decorated in traditional style and offering wonderful views over the valley, the 19 rooms feature antique furniture, Bhutanese textiles and paintings and an earthy colour scheme. Although facilities are simple, this only serves to enhance the old-world charm of this majestic building. The hotel is a short drive from Paro but for a glimpse of local life, walk through the fields instead and experience the grace of rural Bhutanese living.

Uma Paro, Paro Minimalist, contemporary style combines with traditional Bhutanese craftsmanship to glorious effect in this sleek, 29 room boutique hotel on the valley slopes. Built to a traditional design but with thoroughly modern interiors, the hotel offers impeccable service, stunning views and a profound sense of calm. The excellent Bukhari restaurant, with its dramatic central fireplace, serves Bhutanese, Indian and Western cuisine, while Ayurvedic therapies and hot stone baths are available in the Shambhala Retreat. A sister property to the Uma Punakha, a luxury lodge at the western end of the lush Punakha Valley, these two properties receive consistently positive feedback from Audley guests.

Festivals A time to receive blessings and forgiveness, celebrate and socialise, Bhutan’s tsechus are religious festivals that hold great importance for the local people. Held annually throughout the country, the festivals align with the lunar calendar and honour Guru Rinpoche who brought Buddhism to Bhutan. Many make long journeys to attend as it is believed that everyone must witness the masked dances and songs at least once in their life to wash away their sins. The festivals are a riot of colour and music and a significant social event lasting several days. The most famous tsechus attract large numbers of foreign visitors which can make accommodation scarce and the experience itself feel less authentic. Visiting a festival in a smaller location can offer a more intimate experience. If you wish to visit one of the major festivals book well in advance.

Trekking

Gangtey Palace, Paro

Bhutan’s mountainous terrain means you’ll need a reasonable level of fitness to tackle the multi-day hikes in this Himalayan kingdom, but the landscapes here are worth every ounce of effort. You’ll explore isolated valleys and be rewarded with spectacular views from high mountain passes where small temples and shrines lie hiding in the wilderness. These areas are accessible only on foot and with no inns or lodges, overnight stops are always in tents. A team of pack ponies or yaks, a cook and a knowledgeable guide will accompany you, set up camp and prepare meals on a portable gas stove. Along with the panoramic views you can enjoy some authentic local dishes including nakey, edible wild ferns, usually eaten with cheese. Trekking, Paro

The steep inclines and high altitudes, in some parts, add to the difficulty of trekking here and so not all routes will be suitable for everyone. However, there are a large variety of treks available and we will do our utmost to tailor one to suit you. Most treks last between one and four days, though longer routes are also possible.

Grazing yak Memorial Chorten, Thimphu

Thimphu Nowhere is the contrast between Bhutan’s old world allegiances and new world developments more apparent than in the diminutive capital Thimphu. With just over 100,000 people it’s neither a large city nor a particularly commercial one, but the contrast to the rest of the country is marked. It’s a friendly place with a lively atmosphere and a gentle cosmopolitan vibe. Little shops line the streets and at weekends the traditional market is a showcase for everything from yak butter to dried chillies and hand-woven textiles. The impressive Tashichoe Dzong dominates the city, but the School of Traditional Arts is an equally absorbing place to visit and offers an insight into the origins and development of Bhutan’s 13 traditional arts.

Traditional dancing, Thimphu

Punakha Dzong, Punakha

Punakha Cross the Dochu La Pass from the west and descend into Bhutan’s former winter capital, Punakha, a lush valley unlike any other in the country. The striking dzong here is the second oldest in the country, built as a defensive stronghold in the 17th century, and occupying a strategic position at the confluence of two major rivers. Approached on foot through scenic paddy fields and tranquil little villages, it is a superb sight set between flowing water and forested hills. A short stroll through further farmland brings you to Chimi Lhakhang, the temple of Lama Kunley, the Divine Madman. Set on a hilltop, it offers beautiful views of the surrounding countryside and is visited by pilgrims hoping to enhance their fertility. It was Lama Kunley who advocated the use of the phallus symbol seen on many Bhutanese houses to ward off the evil eye.

Local woman, Punakha

Tsang Chhu River, Punakha

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Trongsa Dzong

Dewachen, Phobjikha

Black-necked crane, Phobjikha Valley

Phobjikha Valley The endangered black-necked cranes breed on the high Tibetan plateau but return to Bhutan each year for the winter, with the majority of the flock settling in the Phobjikha Valley. The birds are revered here and their arrival is celebrated with an annual festival at the Gangtey Goempa. The RSPN Black-necked Crane Information Centre in the valley offers a wealth of information on these majestic birds and efforts to protect the fragile local wetlands which attract them. A largely agricultural setting, the valley is an ideal place for more gentle walks and is best appreciated after a descent from the high pass through lovely dwarf bamboo and rhododendron forests to the monastery which sits at the head of the valley. A number of other walks offer a snapshot of life in this rural community and wonderful views of the Black Mountains to the south.

Simple but enduringly romantic, this striking property is built in traditional Bhutanese style and enjoys an enviable location overlooking the stunning Black Mountains National Park and the winter nesting grounds of the black-necked crane. Although the facilities here are basic, the superb setting, ease of access and pure charm and character of this wonderfully relaxed hotel more than compensate for this. The 16 guest rooms are simply furnished with wooden furniture and each has a traditional bukhari stove with a plentiful supply of firewood, while the restaurant commands views of the marshland favoured by the black-necked cranes.

Dewachen, Phobjikha

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Local women, Phobjikha Valley

Trongsa Legend suggests that the site of the magnificent Trongsa Dzong, the largest in Bhutan, owes its origins to the Drukpa Lama, Ngagi Wangchuk, who meditated here in the mid-16th century. A beam of light hit the ground before him and on this auspicious spot he built a temple. Trongsa, meaning â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;new villageâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, grew up around this temple built on a high rocky outcrop which was a strategic crossing point between east and west Bhutan. The traditional governors here, the House of Wangchuck, were later elected as the hereditary royal family. Today, there are 25 temples protected by the stunning fortress which sits perched on the steep-sided gorge of the Mangde River. The watchtower houses an interesting museum and offers incredible views of the valley below.

Rice terraces, Punakha Valley

Amankora journey A luxurious modern-day pilgrimage featuring the best accommodation Bhutan has to offer, the Amankora journey embodies the principles on which it is named: aman meaning ‘peace’ in Sanskrit, and kora, ‘a journey’ or ‘pilgrimage’ in Dzongkha, the Bhutanese language. With stays at lodges in Paro, Thimphu, Punakha, Gangtey and the Bumthang Valley, this journey provides easy access to many of western and central Bhutan’s highlights. Although each lodge is individual in design, they all share a relaxed atmosphere, with an emphasis on excellent service, exclusive experiences and impeccable attention to detail. Natural rammed-earth walls, carved woodwork and gently sloping roofs give way to extremely stylish, minimalist interiors that create a deep sense of tranquillity. All lodges except Thimphu encourage communal dining with the gourmet menus revolving around local produce. Although you can combine stays at any of the Amankora lodges with other accommodation options, the ‘pilgrimage’ across all five properties provides an unforgettable experience.

Trekking in Bumthang Valley

Amankora Punakha The beautiful summer residence of a former chief abbot of Bhutan has been transformed into a stylish oasis of calm in the Punakha Valley. Walking across a small suspension bridge swathed in prayer flags, you’ll be struck by the ornate exterior of this lovely building. The farmhouse has been turned into the reception, dining room and communal areas of the hotel and is decorated in urbane, minimalist style. Just beyond it lies the spa where treatments are complemented by yoga and meditation courses, and further on, in the orange orchard, are the eight suites set in three traditional buildings. With wood-panelling, king size beds, terrazzo-clad baths and traditional bukhari stoves, they are both sophisticated and cosy. Meals are served in the courtyard or the communal dining room inside the farmhouse, either way you’ll eat like kings and be treated like royalty.

Experiences In addition to providing some of Bhutan’s most memorable accommodation, the Amankora philosophy aims to generate greater understanding of this mystical Himalayan kingdom. Bhutan’s holistic development model, focus on quality of life and respect for nature are reflected in the programme of activities available at each of the Amankora lodges. Prominent lamas, revered spiritual leaders, may give talks on Buddhism or a feature of Bhutanese society, such as the concept of Gross National Happiness, over pre-dinner drinks. At Bumthang you can have a traditional astrology reading, visit the Neyphug Thegchen Tsheme monastery in Paro, an orphanage for boys, to gain an insight into the life of young monks, while in Amankora Gangtey, you can learn about the nomadic life of yak herders and the hardy animals they rely on. You can choose your level of involvement in any of these activities but all lodges encourage guests to get out on foot into the communities in which they are staying to explore the pristine valleys and see local life first-hand. Picnic hampers can be provided and recommendations given on routes and attractions depending on your interests and fitness levels.

Amankora Punakha

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Local house, Bumthang Valley

Bumthang Valley

Introduction to the east

With many ancient temples, Bumthang is a very special place where quaint farming villages dot the slopes of wide glacial valleys. With lush pastures, a way of life seemingly lost in time and an abundance of temples and shrines, this is a rewarding destination to explore. Head out on foot between the apple orchards and fields of buckwheat, rice and potatoes to get an insight into the traditional way of life here and to visit what are some of Bhutan’s most venerated temples. Legend suggests that the valley is the birthplace of revered saint Pema Lingpa to whom the Bhutanese royalty trace their descent. The funeral chortens of the first three kings can be visited at Kurje Lhakang and not far from here is the dramatic Mebartsho Gorge. Known as the ‘flaming lake’, this sacred site is where Pema Lingpa silenced his critics and found the treasures hidden by Guru Rinpoche.

East Bhutan is a largely undiscovered region of the country and travelling here is a wonderful adventure. The scenery is spectacular with towering peaks and deep valleys, atmospheric forests and tiny villages clinging to the hillsides. Travelling overland from central Bhutan, it is a breathtaking seven hour journey to the east, across the Thrumsingla Pass at 3,750 metres. The road weaves around the mountain sides on what is arguably one of the most beautiful drives in the Himalaya. The mountains have annexed the east for centuries and the people here are highly traditional, having had far less exposure to Western culture. Small pockets of ethnic minority groups still exist with their animist beliefs and rituals intact, and with few outside visitors, you’re likely to have the main attractions to yourself. The southeastern border with India is also open to visitors and you can cross at Samdrup Jongkhar for more stunning views with the plains of India’s Assam to the south and Bhutan’s Himalayan foothills rising abruptly to the north.

Mongar A pleasant town set on a dramatic ridge, Mongar’s main street is lined with stone buildings painted with traditional motifs and adorned with elaborately carved wooden façades. Fields of maize and mustard surround the town which Local weaving, near Bumthang Valley

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looks down into the valley below with its dense forests and abundance of rhododendrons, which bloom spectacularly from late spring to early summer. The journey here is breathtaking and if you’re lucky you will catch a glimpse of Gangkhar Puensum, the world’s highest unclimbed mountain at 7,570 metres. Mongar is renowned for its weaving, and the textiles here are some of the best in the country, as is its lemongrass oil. The town makes a good stopover between central Bhutan and Trashigang and has a small selection of simple, friendly accommodation options.

Trashigang Once the centre for trade with Tibet, Trashigang is a quaint but bustling town perched above a deep river valley. This dramatic area covers a huge range of altitudes and the semi-nomadic mountain people of Merak and Sakteng come here to trade yak butter for other provisions in the lively bazaar. Their unique dress makes them stand out from the townspeople and it’s fascinating to wander the market with its small, traditional stalls. A giant prayer wheel dominates the town’s small square but it is the 17th-century dzong, perched on a high promontory, which is the most conspicuous feature on the landscape here. Inaccessible from all but one side, the dzong commands outstanding views over the surrounding countryside where villagers produce unique naturally dyed textiles.

Suggested itineraries Tailoring your trip

tibet

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a flavour of what is possible, and are routes that work particularly well. We can use these as a basis to plan your trip or can design a completely different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests. Call one of our Bhutan specialists to start planning your itinerary.

bhutan india Punakha Thimphu

india

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun

Trashigang Mongar

india

india india

Highlights of Bhutan Taking in western Bhutan’s spectacular landscapes and most famous sights, this itinerary begins in Kathmandu before travelling on to Bhutan’s unhurried capital, Thimphu. Cross a stunning mountain pass to visit Punakha Dzong, return to Paro and climb the magnificent route to Tiger’s Nest.

33 33

October to December is the ideal time to visit Bhutan as the air is clear and fresh and temperatures reasonable. January and February are cooler but from then until April the climate remains dry and pleasant and in late spring the famous rhododendrons bloom spectacularly flooding the valleys with colour. If you’re interested in seeing the rare black-necked cranes, we recommend visiting the Phobjikha Valley between late October and mid-February. From May the heat and humidity begin to build and by June the mountain views are obstructed by towering monsoon clouds. Time difference: GMT+6 hours

Fly overnight to Delhi. Arrive in Delhi, afternoon at leisure.

Day 2

Board your connecting flight to Kathmandu and enjoy a first taste of the Himalaya.

Day 3

Fly to Guwahati and continue overland to the Bhutanese border.

Day 4

Day 3

Fly to Paro where your guide and driver will meet you and take you to Thimphu.

Spend the day driving through the Himalayan foothills to Trashigang.

Day 5

Visit Ranjung and Radi to see rural monasteries.

Day 4

Explore the capital and get an introduction to Bhutanese culture as you tour the sights.

Day 6

Take a morning trip to Gom Kora, and Trashi Yangtse, followed by an afternoon in Trashigang.

Day 5

Drive across the dramatic Dochu La Pass to Punakha stopping off at the Chimi Lhakhang temple en route.

Day 7

Drive west to Mongar stopping at Drametse Goempa en route.

Day 6

Visit Punakha Dzong and take a gentle walk through the stunning valley.

Day 8

Soak up the views on a full day drive to Jakar in the Bumthang Valley.

Day 9

Tour Thangbi Temple followed by a traditional lunch.

Day 10

Continue by road to Gangtey via Trongsa Dzong.

Day 11

Walk the Tenkhor Yuetsche Sum Trail then visit the black-necked crane research centre.

Day 7

Return to Paro by road to visit Paro Dzong and the national museum.

Day 8

Set out on foot to make the tough but supremely rewarding climb to the spectacular Tiger’s Nest before visiting Drukgyel Dzong.

Day 9

Drive to Cheli La, one of Bhutan’s highest passes, for a day’s walking and exploring.

Day 12

Continue by road to Punakha.

Day 13

Enjoy glorious views on the walk from Nobgang to Punakha Dzong.

Day 10

Return to Kathmandu by air and enjoy an afternoon exploring the city.

Day 14

Head to Thimphu for an afternoon exploring the capital.

Day 11

Travel to the airport to connect with your international flight via Delhi.

Day 15

Take the short trip to Paro and visit the Paro Dzong and Ta Dzong.

Day 16

Climb to the magnificent Tiger’s Nest and visit Drukgyel Dzong.

Day 17

Fly from Paro to Delhi, the afternoon is free to explore the city.

Day 18

Return to the airport for your international flight.

Prices We offer trips to cater for a wide range of budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices for your trip to Bhutan on our website, alternatively please call our specialists to discuss your plans.

Day 1 Day 2

Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year.

5 Travel is not recommended.

Travelling overland from undeveloped and little-visited east Bhutan to the more popular west, this itinerary offers a great overview of the country.

Fly overnight to Delhi.

Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

A journey from east to west

Day 1

33 The best time to travel. 3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.

Gangtey

Guwahati

When to go 3

Delhi

Kathmandu

It is possible to travel to Bhutan overland from India but it is a considerable drive from the border to the main places of interest. On your arrival in Bhutan your driver and guide will greet you and remain with you for the duration of your visit. Due to the country’s mountainous landscape, road travel is slow and the main route between east and west, which crosses high mountain passes, is prone to occasional landslides.

33 33 33

Thimphu

Bumthang Valley

bhutan

nepal

Getting around

Paro

T 01993 838 320

Punakha

Stay longer Visit the beautiful Phobjikha and Bumthang Valleys for a more comprehensive taste of Bhutan, or combine a trip here with time in Nepal, Tibet or northeast India for a contrasting Himalayan experience. Alternatively, the beaches and temples of Southeast Asia are within easy reach if a complete change of scenery appeals.

Stay longer Spend a few days in Assam, explore tribal villages, take a Brahmaputra cruise or stay on a tea estate.

Monks, Paro

www.audleytravel.com/bhutan • 01993 838 320 • Bhutan

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Tibet B

reathtaking scenery, rich cultural traditions and the unwaveringly devout and remarkably friendly people make a visit to Tibet quite simply, unforgettable. From monasteries packed with chanting monks to remote mountain passes where prayer flags flutter in the wind, spirituality has a very marked presence on the landscape here. Countless places of worship are dotted through the towns and hillsides and brightly-robed monks and nuns go about their daily business, but a difficult political situation and brisk modernisation have undoubtedly changed the lives of all Tibetans in many ways. Despite this, the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s allure remains undiminished and the humbling scenery of the Tibetan Plateau, one of the most isolated regions in the world, is unchanged, its towering peaks beckoning nomadic yak herders, photographers and climbers alike.

Audley in Tibet

Practicalities

To ensure you get the most from your trip we use local drivers and guides who will give you an authentic insight into the region. We will tailor your itinerary to suit both your interests and travel preferences, unlike other operators who mainly offer fixed group tours. Permits are required to enter Tibet, in the past the issuing of these has been suspended for periods of time due to political reasons. Your specialist will be able to advise you about this.

Tibet offers a mixture of characterful guesthouses and business hotels, though more deluxe options are on offer in the capital. Lhasa can be visited all year but journeys on the Friendship Highway are best between April and June or in September. We advise against travelling in Tibet during Chinese public holidays and political anniversaries as it will be very busy with group tours and travel permits are harder to obtain. Prayer flags, the Friendship Highway

128

Lhasa Instantly recognisable, its towering white walls visible for miles around, the serene but imposing Potala Palace is the first thing to greet you as you reach the capital of Tibet. Its labyrinthine corridors open up to chapels, galleries and sacred tombs, and culminate in the former living quarters of the Dalai Lama.

CHINA

TIBET Ya

East of Lhasa in an isolated spot in the Brahmaputra River Valley is Tsetang, the fabled birthplace of the Tibetan people. Today, Tsetang is a largely modern town with an interesting old Tibetan quarter, and is a useful base for exploring the region. Just south of here is the impressive Yumbulagang Fort set on a jagged ridge, offering excellent views over the verdant Yarlung Valley. Northeast of Tsetang, the road crosses the mighty Brahmaputra River en route to the remarkable Samye Monastery, oldest of all Tibet’s monasteries. Under the protective gaze of the spectacular Ütse building countless stupas and temples still attract many devout Buddhists.

NEPAL

pu tra

Lake Namtso

g on M ek

Tsetang

ah ma

Just outside Lhasa you’ll find Sera Monastery, set around a busy courtyard where monks spend afternoons debating philosophical questions; Drepung Monastery, once the world’s largest, and the ruins of Ganden Monastery which command sublime views.

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In nearby Barkhor, you can step back in time as you wander a maze of narrow streets that acts as a pilgrimage circuit, crowded with the visiting faithful, resident monks, temples, chapels, shrines and shops of every type imaginable. At its heart is the spectacular golden-roofed Jokhang, Tibet’s most sacred religious structure.

1 Shigatse LHASA 3 Tsetang 4 Gyantse Mount 2

Tingre KATHMANDU

Everest

200 miles

322 kilometres

BHUTAN

INDIA MYANMAR

1 Lhasa A place of pilgrimage and the cultural and religious heart of Tibet. 2 Tsetang Remote and isolated, this spectacular region is home to Samye, Tibet’s oldest monastery.

3 Friendship Highway The main route between Tibet and Nepal, this overland journey affords incredible panoramas of arresting mountains and dazzling blue lakes.

4 Everest Base Camp Be humbled by the Earth’s majesty as you catch a glimpse of the world’s highest peak from Everest Base Camp. See page 130

Overland to Kathmandu Few journeys in the world can match the Lhasa to Kathmandu Friendship Highway for scenic and cultural experiences. Patchy roads and simple accommodation seem small sacrifices to pay for the privilege of seeing this remarkable part of the world. The 5,000-metre Kambala Pass is the highlight of the first day, offering superb views of Lake Yamdrok-Tso. In Gyantse, the first town of any size, a browse through the markets is a pleasant way to spend the afternoon. A couple of nights here allows time to explore Pelkor Chode Monastery as well as Gyantse Fort. From Gyantse it is an easy drive on to Shigatse, for an afternoon wandering through the streets and markets, and a trip to Sakya Monastery. Beyond Shigatse the scenery becomes increasingly dramatic. At the dusty village of Tingre you leave the Friendship Highway,

Brahmaputra River Valley

Monks, Sera Monastery

heading south towards the approaching Himalaya until the magnificent sight of Everest appears. Spend the night in Rongbuk, at the foot of this humbling mountain, to enjoy the breathtaking spectacle of the sun rising over Everest with the dots of climbers’ tents revealed in the distance. The last morning in Tibet holds arguably the most impressive drive of all, as you leave the barren lunar landscape behind and descend through the clouds into the warmth and greenery of Nepal.

China, Russia & Central Asia More information on Tibet and onward travel into China can be found on our website or in our China, Russia & Central Asia brochure.

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To request a copy or to speak to our specialists please call 01993 838 200.

www.audleytravel.com/tibet • 01993 838 215 • Tibet

129

Mount Everest

Pakistan

Mount Everest and Rongbuk Monastery

Everest Base Camp More isolated and less established than the Everest Base Camp in Nepal, Tibetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hub for climbers is arguably more scenic with fewer visitors. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a bumpy five-hour journey here from the Friendship Highway and a sense of excitement and adventure hits you as soon as you arrive. Despite the opening up of the region to climbers in recent years, it is still a remarkably undeveloped place and the only accommodation option, other than pitching a tent, is the Rongbuk Monastery. At an altitude of 5,100 metres this is the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s highest place of worship. The monks use the money raised to maintain their buildings and in return can offer simple accommodation with outdoor taps and toilets. The dramatic views of Everest from the bedroom windows more than compensate for any lack of creature comforts and waking to see the sunlight sifting over the peak at dawn is an unforgettable experience. 130

Spectacular natural beauty and a rich and complex history make Pakistan a fascinating destination but sectarian unrest and recent violent attacks mean that governments currently advise against travel to many parts of the country. Once stability returns to the region, Audley will once again feature Pakistan.

Ghizer valley, Karakoram range

Badshahi mosque, Lahore

In Lahore, the capital, impressive Mughal architecture lines the streets, while to the north lie the towering peaks of the Himalaya, Hindu Kush and the Karakoram range. This region is cleaved by deep gorges and lush valleys where small villages and high alpine meadows play host to grand Mughal forts, Buddhist shrines and the remnants of the renowned Silk Route. The modern-day Karakoram Highway runs through the mountains on one of these centuries old trade routes, passing stunning scenery between Islamabad and the Chinese border. To the west, on the border with Afghanistan, lies the historic Khyber Pass, a natural link between Central Asia and the subcontinent which played a significant role in the region over thousands of years.

Useful information

Prayer flags, Nepal

Sikh men, Delhi

Ghats, Varanasi

Flights

AITO Membership

Address:

There are a number of airlines that fly directly into the Subcontinent from London Heathrow, including Jet Airways, Virgin Atlantic, British Airways and Sri Lankan Airlines. There are also multiple indirect routes from many regional airports across the UK and Ireland, via Europe and the Middle East.

Audley is a member of the Association of Independent Tour Operators. The association represents Britain’s leading independent tour operators and encourages high standards of quality and service. Audley abides by the Association’s Code of Conduct and adheres to the AITO Quality Charter which can be viewed on www.aito.com

Audley Travel, New Mill, New Mill Lane, Witney, Oxfordshire OX29 9SX, United Kingdom. Telephone: 01993 838 300 Email: indsub@audleytravel.com London Office: Audley Travel, Monsoon Building, 1 Nicholas Road, London W11 4AN, United Kingdom.

Responsible travel We’re passionate about travel but also deeply aware of the responsibility we have to the people and places we visit. We believe that a visit from an Audley traveller should have a positive impact on the destination. We endeavour to use locally-owned hotels, work with local guides and operators, and promote community and wildlife projects. For more information about travelling responsibly and the charities and projects we support please visit www.audleytravel.com/rt

Nepal, the Maldives and many of India’s southern states, as well as northern Himalaya regions have connections through the Middle East or via Delhi or Mumbai. India’s central wildlife parks also have connections via these two cities. Bhutan can be reached via some of India’s larger cities, Nepal and a number of Asian hubs i.e. Bangkok. We can happily discuss and recommend reliable domestic airlines within the Subcontinent. We work with a selection of airlines, flying from numerous UK airports. We will help you decide which airline to choose based on the route, the class you wish to fly, the cost and what deals are available at the time.

Photography in this brochure We would like to thank the following photographers and organisations for the images used in this brochure: Alamy, Audley staff, clients and suppliers, AWL images, Dreamstime, iStockphoto, Robert Harding, Steve Allen, Superstock. All images used in this brochure were obtained in good faith by Audley Travel Group Limited and in the belief that all necessary consents and clearances were obtained for their use. For any queries relating to photography please contact us on 01993 838 040.

Terms & Conditions and Travel Insurance Your booking is subject to the terms and conditions of Audley Travel which are detailed in the booking form. It is vital that you have adequate travel insurance and we are able to suggest a number of policies either for the duration of your trip or on an annual basis.

Visit our offices

www.audleytravel.com

If you would like to discuss your travel arrangements in person we welcome personal visits, please call in advance to arrange an appointment with one or more of our country specialists. Our offices are at the New Mill, a 17th-century converted wool mill on the outskirts of Witney, ten miles west of Oxford, on the edge of the Cotswolds. We also have an office in west London, if this is more convenient for you.

Our website is packed with information, features and advice covering all our destinations across the globe. On the site you can browse by theme, interest or region as well as viewing additional accommodation options and itineraries that are not featured in this brochure. You can request all our brochures online or contact us via the website where there is the option to tell us about your plans so that we can start tailoring your itinerary.

www.audleytravel.com/visit-us

Useful information

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New Mill, New Mill Lane, Witney, Oxfordshire OX29 9SX, United Kingdom Telephone: 01993 838 300 • Fax: 01993 838 010 Email: indsub@audleytravel.com • Website: www.audleytravel.com

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