I ta ly
Ta i lor - m a d e J o u r n e y s
for
the
D i s c e r n i n g T r av e l l e r
Dear Traveller We are delighted to be offering trips to Italy, a country packed with history, from Roman ruins to Renaissance masterpieces. Coupled with its wonderful Mediterranean climate, beautiful scenery and delicious food, it is easy to see why it is so popular. While it may not feel as off the beaten track as other countries, we still apply the same theory of seeking out unique experiences and offering an authentic insight into the destination. There truly is something for everyone, from making your own Venetian masks to exploring Rome by Vespa. We can help you avoid the crowds and discover the country using our knowledge and expertise to tailor your trip. Our Italy specialists will be delighted to help plan your journey.
Craig Burkinshaw, Founder
Introducing Audley I
t was a trip around Asia in the early 1990s that ignited Craig Burkinshaw’s passion for travel. On his return he was so keen to share his experiences that he founded Audley, or Asian Journeys as we were then called. We offered a new type of travel – individual journeys, designed to match the traveller’s interests, tastes and budget, created with an absolute commitment to quality and authenticity. Today this desire to share authentic travel experiences is undiminished and Audley is one of the UK’s most highly regarded specialist tour operators, providing tailor-made trips throughout Asia, Africa, Italy, the Middle East, Latin America, Australasia, North America, Antarctica and the Arctic.
Tailor-made journeys The beauty of tailor-made travel is that every trip is unique. Whether you want to stay in simple or luxurious accommodation, have great guides on hand or explore under your own steam, travel for one week or five, we can create a trip to match your tastes and budget. We can also design trips for a special occasion, whether this is a spectacular honeymoon or milestone anniversary. Throughout the brochure you will find suggested itineraries and some of our favourite places to stay, but these are all just for inspiration as each trip is created uniquely for you and there are many more options available.
Specialist knowledge Our Italy specialists have all travelled extensively throughout the region and in many cases lived there, so you can rely on their in-depth, first-hand knowledge. They regularly return to discover new hidden gems, stay in the accommodation and meet our guides – many of whom are firm friends – as well as experience all the excursions and activities. We believe this is the only way that we can genuinely offer you a tailor-made service and enable you to experience a side of Italy that others might miss.
Planning your trip Speaking to one of our specialists is the best way to start planning your trip, whether you already know where you want to go or just have the seed of an idea. They can discuss your plans, offer advice and give you ideas and inspiration for your trip, before creating a detailed itinerary, which will be forwarded to you together with maps, accommodation descriptions and a price. The same specialist will then refine the plans until you are completely satisfied and will be on hand to answer questions from your very first telephone call until you return from your trip.
Vineyards, Tuscany
Contents Introduction 2-5 Venice, Florence & Rome 6-15 Ancient Rome
14
Northern Italy 16-35 Italian wine
25
Regional cuisine 36-37 Southern Italy 38-50 Pompeii & Herculaneum
44
Useful information 51
Piazza Navona, Rome
Introduction
3
Experience
Italy A
country of OUTSTANDING natural beauty, sometimes described as an open-air museum and a treasure chest of art and architecture, Italy is a delight to explore. Few countries in the world offer such a wealth and diversity of attractions. You can spend your days wandering through the remains of Roman towns, marvelling at glistening mosaics, relaxing on Alpine lakes or climbing dramatic volcanoes, or lingering over exquisite meals and sipping fine wines. Italy’s incomparable cultural and artistic legacy, beautiful scenery and delicious cuisine make it a place that you will long to return to time and time again.
The Colosseum, Rome
Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore
History
Art
While Italy as we now know it is a relatively young country – only becoming unified at the end of the 19 th century – the peninsula’s complex history has left an indelible mark through the ages. From the ruins of ancient amphitheatres to spectacular Renaissance artworks it is a country with a hugely rich and varied heritage. The birth of the Roman Empire around 753 BC led to the creation of some of Italy’s most familiar and enduring monuments, many of which have stood for over 2,000 years. The Middle Ages saw a series of powerful city states emerge, from Milan and Venice in the north to Amalfi in the south. Particularly important among them was Florence, a prosperous metropolis where rich merchants and bankers ploughed money into the arts and created ideal conditions for the birth of the Renaissance. During this period, Italy was at the forefront of European culture and learning, exporting ideas across the western world. Italy remained a complex system of smaller states and kingdoms before many fell to Napoleon at the end of the 18th century and were eventually unified into the country we know today.
Italy’s artistic heritage is one of the richest in the world and Italian art has been a source of national pride and worldwide inspiration for centuries. From ancient pottery and Roman mosaics to Renaissance artwork, Baroque sculpture and modern-day haute couture, it is a testament to the talent and creativity of Italian artists throughout time. One of the most prolific periods of artistic expression was the Renaissance. This was a time of great exploration and experimentation matched by flourishing talent and the generosity of wealthy patrons willing to encourage it. It was the age of Michelangelo, Da Vinci, Raphael, Botticelli, Donatello, Bellini, Titian and Veronese, and a period unmatched in history for the sheer volume of high quality painting, sculpture and architecture which emerged across Italy and can still be seen to this day.
Vegetable stall, Naples
Kayaking, Venice
4
Outdoor activities Italy offers an abundance of outdoor activities for you to take part in. Hiking is popular and scenic walks can be taken in the hills above the villages of the Cinque Terre and the Amalfi Coast, the rolling hills of Piedmont, rugged Matera and the isle of Capri. Routes vary from easy, light hikes to more challenging terrain. All of the walks are completed with expert hiking guides who can help you to navigate the landscape and learn about the flora and fauna of the area. As well as hiking you can kayak through the canals of Venice, cycle around Florence and Lecce, take a boat trip along the Ligurian coast or around the island of Capri, or go fishing with a local fisherman in Sorrento.
SWITZERLAND
I
I
I
I
I
I I I I
I
I I I I I I I I I I
I I I I I I I
I
I
I
I I I
I
I
I
Parma
Venice
I
I
I
I
SLOVENIA
Verona
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
Milan
I
FRANCE
AUSTRIA
A
Lake Como
Lake Maggiore
Turin
S
P
L
Santa I Modena I I CROATIA I Margherita I I Bologna Genoa Portofino Ligure Ravenna I
I
I
I
I
I II
I
I
Florence
I I
I I I I
Cinque Terre Lucca Porto Venere Ligurian Pisa San Sea Gimignano
I I
MONACO
I
I
I I I I
I Siena
I
Statues in the Loggia dei Lanzi, Florence
I
I I
I
I
I
Adriatic Sea
ITALY
I I I
I
Corsica
I
I
I
I I I I
I
ROME
I
Pompeii l l
l l l
I
I
Sardinia
Capri
Tyrrhenian Sea
Bari Fasano Matera Ostuni Ravello Brindisi Lecce Amalfi Positano Otranto l
I
Naples Sorrento
l l l
I I
l
I
l
I
l
I
l l
I
l l
I
Vesuvius
Cagliari 0
50 miles
0
80 kilometres
Palermo
M
ed it
err
Sicily
an ea nS
Catania
ea
Drummers in the Palio, Siena
Festivals
Family travel
Glossary
Holidays and festivals are a huge part of the Italian way of life. The vast majority follow the Christian calendar from Carnevale at the beginning of Lent to sombre Easter processions, joyful Ascension Day pageants and celebrations of countless individual saints’ days. Many more draw their influence from the country’s vibrant history, such as the rivalry between different contrade (districts) in Siena’s famous Palio or Venice’s symbolic and highly traditional annual ‘Marriage of the Sea’. In the summer months expect to see the local tourist boards making the most of their medieval heritage and presenting costumed displays of revelry from football matches and jousting to tugs of war and archery competitions across Tuscany and beyond.
Italy is a perfect destination for families. Children are welcomed throughout the country, the choice of food is varied and there are a host of exciting attractions and experiences for them to enjoy. History comes to life while exploring ancient Roman ruins and touring the Venetian canals by private boat. We can also arrange a number of unique experiences that offer an insight into Italian life, such as pizza making classes in Sorrento, truffle hunting in the woods of Piedmont or Tuscany, along with numerous cooking classes where you can learn to make your own pasta, or a studio visit to make traditional Venetian masks.
Aperitivo – pre-dinner drink accompanied with snacks Bacaro – a typical Venetian wine bar Campo – square, formerly a field Cicchetti – light snacks, tapas style typically served in Venice with an aperitivo Cupola – a rounded dome forming or adorning a roof or ceiling Doge – chief magistrate and nominal ruler of the former Venetian republic Duomo – cathedral Enoteca – wine bar Masseria – a fortified farmhouse found in Puglia Palazzo or palazzi – palace or palaces Piazza – square
History and religion are not the only cause for festivity in a nation that holds food close to its heart however. Seasonal produce festivals abound across the country, celebrating the arrival of everything from artichokes to tomatoes. During October and November the Truffle Fair in Alba entices food lovers from around the world, but every region strives to fete its own specialities with great pomp and circumstance.
Slow Food – an Italian movement that promotes local and traditional food Traghetto – in Venice, a ferry similar to a gondola that takes you from one side of the Grand Canal to the other Trattoria – an informal Italian restaurant Vaporetto – water bus or taxi in Venice
Mask making, Venice
01993 838960 • Introduction
5
Venice, Florence & Rome T
ogether the Italian cities of VENICE, Florence and Rome lay bare the history and culture of Italy since ancient times. Their intriguing past, unparalleled art and architecture, and vibrant atmosphere make them some of the most memorable cities on Earth. From the vivid remains of Roman life in the Colosseum and the Pantheon to the artistic treasures of medieval Florence and the romance of Venice’s bustling canals, you’ll be treated to an astonishing array of attractions all in an easily accessible area. You can marvel at the ingenuity of ancient life, enjoy artistic masterpieces in world-renowned museums and galleries, and feast on fine food and wine. Despite being cultural heavyweights, the art cities are constantly evolving, their streets are lined with cafes and bars, fashionable boutiques and gourmet restaurants.
I
I
I
I
I
I I I I
I
1
Venice 2
I I I I
VENETO
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
Golfo di Venézia
I I
I
I
I I I
ITALY
I
I I
Adriatic Sea
I
I
I I I
Explore Venice by boat, admiring the palazzi that front the Grand Canal as well as the maze of quiet backwaters. See pages 8-9
I I I I I I
2 Canals of Venice
EMILIA-ROMAGNA
I I I I
0
30 miles
0
50 kilometres
I
I
I I I I I I I I
SAN MARINO
I I I
Lucca
3
I I I
I I
4
Florence I I I
Pisa
MARCHE
I I
I
I
I I
San Gimignano
I
I I
Gaiole in Chianti
I I
Siena
The Colosseum, Rome
UMBRIA
I I I I
Castiglioncello del Trinoro
I I
I
I
I
I I
Ligurian Sea
I I
I
I
I I
I
Arguably the most technically impressive and visually striking example of Renaissance architecture in existence. See page 10
I
Montepulciano
3 Florence’s Duomo
I I I I I I
TUSCANY
I I I
Accommodation
I
LAZIO
5
I
6
I
Vatican City
I I I I I I I
4 Art in Florence Discover the treasures held in Florence’s galleries which include the world-renowned Uffizi and Accademia. See page 11
I I I
Venice, Florence and Rome are home to plenty of unique and characterful properties that are sure to enchant any visitor. Former residences of noble families have been converted into hotels and range from grand city palazzi to regal estates, complete with original artworks, antiques and libraries. Step back in time with a stay in a converted merchant’s palace, accessed from a private dock on one of Venice’s canals. Sleep under frescoed ceilings and wake up to views of the Duomo in Florence or dine in a rooftop restaurant overlooking the Colosseum. The accommodation in this region is highly memorable and our team of specialists can help find the ideal property to suit your tastes and budget.
I
I
I I I I
Lake Garda
I
I I
Verona
I
Venice, Florence and Rome offer visitors a wealth of treasures to explore and it is easy to fill your days wandering between well-known landmarks and galleries. At Audley however, we believe in offering visitors the chance to gain a deeper understanding of the country and its people. With the help of expert local guides, we can bring these historical cities to life with private boat trips or secret walking tours of Venice and guided Vespa rides around Rome. We can take you to meet Florence’s traditional artisans and to visit hidden areas of the Doge’s Palace in Venice or the Vatican Museums after hours. Alternatively, choose to take part in a gladiator school, custom design your own Venetian mask or learn to cook like a local.
1 St Mark’s Square The historic heart of Venice and home to the Doge’s Palace and St Mark’s Basilica. See page 9
I
Audley in Venice, Florence & Rome
ROME
5 The Colosseum Rome’s most famous site, where gladiators, animals and the condemned met in bloody combat. See page 14 6 Vatican City The world’s smallest country and home to the incredible Sistine Chapel and St Peter’s Basilica. See page 13 Duomo Santa Maria del Fiore, Florence
www.audleytravel.com/italy • 01993 838960 • Venice, Florence & Rome
7
View of Venice from a gondola
Venice Once a powerful independent republic, Venice is one of the most celebrated cities in Italy. It is built on 118 small islands linked by canals and bridges and remains one of the most visually stunning cities in the world. Now protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is a unique place that will fascinate historians, art lovers and romantics. From its extravagant churches and palaces housing medieval masterpieces to its iconic bell towers, it is a city of high culture that is known for its pioneering ideas and fierce sense of regional identity.
Exploring Venice Venice is a city best explored by boat and there are numerous options to see sights such as the Doge’s Palace and St Mark’s Basilica from the water. Public transport is by water and taking a ride on a vaporetto, along the Grand Canal or out to the islands of Murano and Burano, can offer some stunning views as you navigate Venice like a local. Alternatively, take a private boat tour to relax and enjoy excellent views of the city, including areas such as the Guidecca Island, St Mark’s Square and of course, the wonderful palazzo-lined Grand Canal. Finally, there is also the option of a private gondola ride, Venice’s most iconic and romantic mode of transport.
The Gritti Palace, Venice This historic hotel is a Venetian landmark and is ideally located on the Grand Canal, just a short walk from St Mark’s Square. Dating back to the 16th century, when it was owned by the Doge Gritti, it combines the charm and character of Venice’s golden era with restrained, contemporary elegance. Low ceilings and small reception rooms lead to hideaways, offering the sense of stepping into a luxurious private home. The service is flawless and friendly, and it’s easy to see that everyone here ardently believes that this is the best hotel in Venice. The 82 rooms and suites have large windows and are decorated in traditional Venetian style with Murano glass chandeliers and antique furnishings. The bar and restaurant are both right on the waterfront and offer outdoor seating overlooking the Grand Canal.
Venice SimplonOrient-Express The world-renowned Orient Express took its first journey in 1883 from Paris to Vienna. Since 1982 the train has been operated by Belmond and is now named the Venice Simplon-OrientExpress. This classic train journey is considered one of the most romantic railway journeys in the world, providing a memorable travel experience, reminiscent of travel during the 1920s and 1930s. Beginning in Venice the train passes through changing landscapes across Europe from high mountains to open countryside, stopping briefly at each border to change the engine. You can choose to disembark in Paris or continue your journey to London. The trip includes one night on board and can also be taken in reverse from London or Paris, to Venice.
The Gritti Palace, Venice
8
Venice Simplon-Orient-Express
Detail of the Doge’s Palace, Venice
View across St Mark’s Square to the basilica, Venice
Ca’Sagredo, Venice
Resting gondolier, Venice
Interior of the Doge’s Palace, Venice
St Mark’s Square Surrounded by imperial apartments and some of Venice’s oldest cafes, St Mark’s Square is the heart of Venice and is dominated by the imposing St Mark’s Basilica. The basilica is one of the most impressive in Italy and is awash with spectacular mosaics and showcases some extraordinary Romanesque architecture. Next door is the remarkable Doge’s Palace, originally the seat of the Venetian government and official home of the Doge. This Gothic palace is extravagantly decorated with ornate fireplaces, gilded stuccowork and lavish artwork by Tintoretto, Tiepolo and Veronese. The palace was also home to the Republic’s prisons, linked to the building by the Bridge of Sighs.
Ca’Sagredo, Venice A converted palazzo in the heart of Venice, the 15th-century Ca’Sagredo still feels more like a palace than a hotel. The building looks across the Grand Canal to the Rialto Market and inside, grand stone arches open onto a dramatic, sweeping staircase decorated with towering frescoes and marble balustrades. The second floor consists of a stunning frescoed room complete with huge glass chandeliers and floor-to-ceiling windows. With just 42 sumptuous guest rooms, Ca’Sagredo is elegantly refined and truly authentic.
Venice Carnival During the ten days running up to the beginning of Lent, Venice comes alive in the most spectacular fashion with its annual Carnevale. The celebration dates back to the 11th century but reached its heyday in the mid-18th century when festivities could last over two months. Under the cover of their disguises, rich and poor engaged in illicit liaisons and social transgressions in a great celebration of excess. Today the carnival’s music and pageants are just as exuberant and you’ll encounter masked revellers, bedecked head to toe in the most elaborate costumes, thronging the streets, creating a wonderful, celebratory atmosphere. As a direct result, carnival masks have become synonymous with Venice and examples are sold throughout the city as souvenirs. However, for a more personal experience, there are also a number of studios that offer the opportunity to design and make your own creation. The mask choices come in all shapes and sizes with each design having a different significance. You are free to decorate them as you wish, using a range of materials including gold leaf, brocade edging or bright acrylic paints.
Carnival water parade, Venice
Revellers in traditional costume, Venice
www.audleytravel.com/italy • 01993 838960 • Venice, Florence & Rome
9
View of the Duomo, Florence
Florence Situated on the banks of the River Arno amid the Tuscan hills, Florence is celebrated for its art, history and architecture. The birthplace of the Renaissance, today the city is a living gallery. The ochre dome of the Duomo dominates the skyline, while the Accademia and Uffizi galleries house works such as Michelangelo’s ‘David’ and Botticelli’s ‘Birth of Venus’. Relatively compact and easy to explore, Florence’s stately palaces and squares are connected by narrow, winding lanes full of cafes and artisan shops. It’s a place where even the smallest church, tucked out of the way down a backstreet, can contain an artistic masterpiece.
Antica Torre di Via Tornabuoni 1, Florence
Painted interior of Brunelleschi’s dome
The Duomo Commissioned around 1296, Florence’s Duomo was intended to demonstrate the city’s wealth and status. The magnificent building took almost 150 years to complete with Brunelleschi’s dome only added in the 15th century. His creation is arguably the most technically impressive example of Renaissance architecture and is flanked by a bell tower designed by Giotto, the beautiful Baptistry of San Giovanni and the Opera del Duomo Museum.
A beautiful property that combines a 13th-century medieval tower and an 18th-century palazzo, the Antica Torre is a charming and characterful hotel. Inside, there is an air of understated, yet majestic, elegance with just 24 guest rooms. The highlight of the hotel is the breakfast room and rooftop terrace, which offer some of the best views in Florence. Overlooking the River Arno on one side and the Duomo on the other, the terrace is exclusive to hotel guests and makes for a wonderful spot to relax or enjoy an evening drink as the sun sets over the city.
Basilica di Santa Croce
Calcio Storico tournament in Piazza di Santa Croce
10
The colossal 14th-century Basilica di Santa Croce is the final resting place of Michelangelo and Ghiberti, as well as the astronomer Galileo. Throughout the Middle Ages, the piazza in front of the basilica often hosted jousting and festivals. Nowadays, it continues to host the ‘Calcio Storico’ – a raucous medieval-style football tournament – held in June.
Antica Torre di Via Tornabuoni 1, Florence
Pavement artist, Florence
Replica of ‘David’ and the Uffizi Gallery, Florence
Boboli Gardens, Florence
Villa Cora, Florence
Ponte Vecchio, Florence
Villa Cora, Florence Set on the hillside with beautiful views across Florence and the Boboli Gardens, Villa Cora was built in 1860. The hotel’s 45 elegant guest rooms, ornate ceilings, gilded mirrors, stuccowork and decadent fabrics give it a decidedly regal air. The ground floor is composed of a number of elaborate entertaining rooms including a Moorish salon and a former games room complete with playing card designs on the ceiling. Outside there’s a patio and a charming rose garden that leads down to the pool terrace and restaurant.
Ponte Vecchio & Pitti Palace Linking Florence’s medieval core and the charming Oltrano district, the iconic 14th-century Ponte Vecchio is the city’s oldest bridge. Once home to grocers, fishmongers and butchers, they were replaced by goldsmiths and watchmakers in the 16th century when the Vasari Corridor, an exclusive passageway above the bridge, linking the Uffizi Gallery and Pitti Palace, was built. Oltrano’s sprawling Pitti Palace was once home to the city’s ruling families including the Medicis and later the Savoys. Now a complex of museums, you can visit the opulently furnished apartments in the Palatine Gallery and the formal Boboli Gardens.
The Renaissance The 1400s were a time of great change in Italy and across Europe with the discovery of new continents, amazing breakthroughs in architecture and science, and the invention of printing machines, paper and gunpowder. A wave of creativity swept through the country and in Florence wealthy merchants such as the powerful Medici family, invested their fortunes in the arts and learning. Artists flocked to the city seeking inspiration and hoping to attract a benevolent patron. Over the years the city amassed great collections of art and sculpture, commissioning work from leading artists including Brunelleschi, Donatello, Botticelli, Da Vinci and perhaps the most famous Florentine of them all, a young sculptor called Michelangelo. Aged just 26, he was awarded the commission to complete what would become one of his most famous works, the towering marble ‘David’, originally intended for the façade of the Duomo. Today, it is housed in a purpose-built gallery within the Accademia. Nearby, the Uffizi Gallery showcases what is arguably the world’s most impressive
Michelangelo’s ‘David’, Accademia Gallery
collection of Renaissance artwork, largely donated by the Medicis’ last descendant, Anna Maria Ludovica, on the condition that it remained on public view in Florence.
www.audleytravel.com/italy • 01993 838960 • Venice, Florence & Rome
11
Trevi Fountain, Rome
Rome Arguably one of the most pivotal cities in ancient history, Rome’s enduring influence spans 2,500 years, beginning as legend states with the defeat of Remus by his twin Romulus who went on to found the city. Over the years, Rome has witnessed the founding of Julius Caesar’s Republic and the birth of the Empire under Augustus and has truly earned its status as the Eternal City. Today the city is awash with ancient ruins and grand architectural achievements, including intricately designed Baroque fountains and churches, powerful Renaissance artworks and lively modern piazzas. Also enclosed within the city is the Vatican, a beautiful city state and home to some of the greatest artworks in the world.
Palazzo Manfredi, Rome
Palazzo Manfredi, Rome
Villa Spalletti Trivelli, Rome
Rose Garden Palace, Rome Conveniently located just a short walk from the Spanish Steps and the Villa Borghese gardens, the Rose Garden Palace is a simple yet elegant hotel known for its friendly staff and spacious rooms. Contemporary style combines with period detail in the 73 rooms and suites which feature a refreshing blue and white theme. Unusually for an inner city hotel, there is also a small indoor swimming pool along with a tranquil outdoor seating area which is perfect on hot days for an alfresco breakfast or a relaxing evening drink.
Rose Garden Palace, Rome
Villa Spalletti Trivelli, Rome
12
Situated overlooking the Colosseum and offering some of the best views in Rome, Palazzo Manfredi is a sophisticated boutique hotel with an intimate atmosphere. Chic, modern decor is matched by lavish original features in this beautiful 16th-century palazzo and the 16 guest rooms are sumptuously furnished in a contemporary style. Many of the rooms offer exceptional views across to the Colosseum and the adjacent Colle Oppio Park which is dotted with Roman ruins, but the finest vistas can be enjoyed from the Michelin-starred restaurant on the top floor.
Set in the beautifully converted private residence of the wealthy Spalletti Trivelli family, this hotel offers the chance to experience life in an aristocratic home. The hotel is owned and managed by the family and is left much as it was when it served as the family home. Many of their original furnishings, artwork and antiques adorn the rooms including an original Rubens and two huge Flemish tapestries in the drawing room, while the library houses part of the family’s extensive, and nationally important, book collection. The 14 spacious rooms all have their own character and feature original prints. To the front of the property, there is also a large and secluded leafy garden area, a rarity in central Rome.
The Colosseum, Rome
Evening in Trastevere, Rome
Relaxing on Piazza Navona, Rome
Cortile della Pigna, Vatican Museums, Vatican City
Ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, Vatican City
Rome: Birthplace of the Baroque Rome is generally acknowledged as the birthplace of the Baroque and the city has many ornate examples of this flamboyant style. One of the most well-known is the Trevi Fountain, the city’s largest and most elaborate waterworks. Still fed by an ancient Roman aqueduct, legend has it that if you use your left hand to throw a coin over your right shoulder into the pool you will return to Rome in the future. Piazza Navona also contains a number of important Baroque fountains, including the Fountain of the Four Rivers by the sculptor Bernini. Today, the piazza is a popular evening haunt, lined with bars and restaurants. Examples of Bernini’s work can be found in small unassuming churches throughout the city, as well as in the Borghese Gallery.
St Peter’s Square, Vatican City
Rome by Vespa Explore Rome’s winding, narrow streets and venture to some of the city’s best viewpoints on this unique Vespa tour. While seated securely behind your experienced driver-guide you will get a glimpse into everyday Roman life as you ride past cafe-lined piazzas and explore narrow lanes. In addition to seeing major sites such as the Colosseum, you will venture to lesser-known locations like Trastevere, where you can explore the winding lanes, before visiting a Roman spa and the tranquil Gianicolo Hill, for panoramic city views. At the end of this tour you will feel as if you’ve seen the city through the eyes of a local.
Vatican City The colossal dome of St Peter’s Basilica, Rome’s most spectacular church, is visible on the skyline from most vantage points in the city. It points the way to Vatican City, the world’s smallest sovereign state, home of the Catholic Church and the Pope. The monumental basilica and the two encircling arms of its colonnaded walkways enclose the vast oval St Peter’s Square and showcase the combined talents of a succession of architects including Bernini and Michelangelo. Close by are the Vatican Museums, a series of palatial galleries that house a comprehensive collection of artworks, sculptures, maps and tapestries that lead to the breathtaking Sistine Chapel. Here you can admire Michelangelo’s triumphant ceiling and his painting of ‘The Last Judgement’.
Fountain of the Four Rivers, Rome
www.audleytravel.com/italy • 01993 838960 • Venice, Florence & Rome
13
View of the Colosseum from the Roman Forum
Ancient Rome Ancient history is a very visible feature in modern Rome, yet as you walk around it can be difficult to comprehend just how old this city is. Roman engineering and architecture were ingenious and in many places the structures are so well preserved, that it is astonishing to think some are up to 2,000 years old. Additionally for everything visible above ground, there are still countless others buried beneath the layers of the city, as Renaissance churches were built on the foundations of Roman temples and ancient stadiums gave way to Baroque piazzas. This wonderfully complex layering of history makes Rome arguably the world’s most spectacular open-air museum. The Colosseum Rome’s most famous sight, the massive Colosseum, hosted legendary battles where gladiators, exotic animals and the condemned met in bloody combat to entertain up to 87,000 spectators. Completed in 80 AD, the structure was originally clad in white travertine (a form of limestone), with marble statues filling the alcoves in the walls. Although many decorative features were stripped away when the games were finally banned in the 6th century, the sheer scale of what remains gives a clear impression of the popularity of this gory form of Roman entertainment.
14
Inside the Colosseum
The Roman Forum & Palatine Hill Once the heart of political and commercial activity in ancient Rome, the forum covered a massive area and today you can see the remains of a multitude of ancient temples, basilicas and archways. After the Roman Empire fell, the forum was abandoned and was only rediscovered in 1803. Highlights include the 3rd-century Arco di Settimio Severo and the Curia, the seat of the Roman Senate which was reconstructed in 1937. Rising above the Roman Forum, Palatine Hill was the ancient city’s most exclusive area, once covered with the opulent residences of affluent Romans. The ruins here include the palaces of emperors Augustus, Tiberius and Domitian.
The Pantheon A temple to all the gods, the Pantheon stands in a piazza in central Rome. Its scale isn’t apparent until you’re standing directly in front of it, the columned portico leading skyward to a 43-metre dome. Despite being almost 2,000 years old, it remains the largest unreinforced concrete dome in the world. Inside, tombs occupy alcoves in the walls – Raphael is buried here, among other notables – while the coffered dome leads the eye to the central oculus which ingeniously lights the chamber and reduces stress on the structure. An engineering masterpiece, the Pantheon is the best preserved and most intact of all Roman structures in existence. Basilica di San Clemente Demonstrating brilliantly how Rome has evolved in layers over time, the Basilica di San Clemente is a fascinating building, with different religious structures built over much older foundations. Located not far from the Colosseum, the current basilica dates from the 12th century but sits on top of a 4thcentury church, the remains of which can be seen in the lower levels. Heading deeper still, it is also possible to see the vestiges of a 2nd-century temple to Mithras.
Suggested itineraries Tailoring your trip
Lake Como Venice
The itineraries shown are designed to give you a flavour of what is possible, and are routes that work particularly well. We can use these as a basis to plan your trip or can design a completely different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests. Please call one of our Italy specialists to start planning your itinerary.
Milan
Florence Florence
Rome
Getting around Train travel between the main cities is comfortable, regular and efficient and it is easy to visit Venice, Florence and Rome. The high-speed train from Rome to Florence takes just 90 minutes and you can continue on from there to Venice in just two hours. Narrow streets and one-way systems make driving and parking in the cities difficult, while assertive driving on rural roads can make driving between destinations a tense experience.
When to go 3
3
3
33 33 33
Chianti
Rome
T 01993 838960
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun
Venice
Verona
Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
3
3
33 33
3
3
33 The best time to travel. 3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.
Venice, Florence and Rome make good yearround destinations but are at their best in April, May, June, September and October when the weather is pleasantly warm and dry. July and August can be uncomfortably hot with many Italians retreating to the coast during August which forces some businesses to close. Between November and April the cities remain an attractive option with far fewer visitors, galleries offering a respite from winter weather and festive lighting providing a magical ambience to the medieval streetscapes. Time difference: GMT+1
Italy’s Art Cities: Venice, Florence & Rome This itinerary encompasses the three main art cities of Venice, Florence and Rome and is designed to provide a unique insight into the astonishingly diverse history and culture of the country. In each destination you will explore world-class art galleries and impressive churches as well as the shaded piazzas and side streets that inspired many artists.
Positano
Grand Tour of Italy Explore the highlights of Italy on this extended itinerary. As well as exploring the cities of Rome, Florence, Venice and Milan, this grand tour also incorporates time to cruise the waters of Lake Como, relax in the stunning Tuscan countryside and experience the dramatic views along the Amalfi Coast. Day 1
Arrive in Venice. Enjoy a private boat tour.
Day 1
Arrive in Venice.
Day 2
Day 2
Explore St Mark’s Basilica and the 15th-century Doge’s Palace, including the Bridge of Sighs.
Explore St Mark’s Square and the Doge’s Palace.
Day 3
Discover the islands of Murano and Burano.
Day 4
Take the train to Verona and join a walking tour of the city.
Days 5-7
Travel to Lake Como. Take a boat tour and spend some time relaxing.
Day 8
Head to Milan.
Day 9
Take a private walking tour around this stylish city.
Day 10
Travel to Rome by train, leaving time to explore in the evening.
After your rail journey to Florence you have the afternoon free.
Day 11
Visit the Colosseum and the Roman Forum with your guide.
Visit the Uffizi Gallery for a private tour of the art collections.
Day 12
Explore the Accademia Gallery and the Pitti Palace with your guide.
Day 3
After your train journey to Florence you may want to explore the Piazza del Duomo.
Day 4
Enjoy a private guided walking tour visiting Basilica di Santa Croce and the Accademia Gallery.
Day 5
Day 6 Day 7 Day 8
Prices We offer trips to cater for a wide range of budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices for your trip to Italy on our website, alternatively please call our specialists to discuss your plans.
Naples Capri
Day 9
Day 10
Enjoy a day at leisure, perhaps visiting the Pitti Palace and stunning Boboli Gardens.
Enjoy a private guided tour of Vatican City, including St Peter’s Basilica and the Sistine Chapel. Visit the Borghese Gallery before exploring Santa Maria del Popolo Church and the Spanish Steps. Transfer to the airport for your onward flight.
Extend your trip Arrive in style on the Venice Simplon-OrientExpress. You could join the train in London or Paris for a journey across Europe arriving in Venice Santa Lucia station the following afternoon.
Days 13-14 Spend time in the Tuscan countryside to appreciate the beautiful landscapes, visit vineyards and taste some Chianti. Day 15
Journey to Rome by train for an evening city tour.
Day 16
Enjoy a private tour of the Colosseum and the Roman Forum.
Day 17
Explore Vatican City.
Day 18
Travel by train to Naples and continue by road to Positano.
Day 19
Explore the island of Capri in style by private boat.
Day 20
Visit the astonishing ruins at Pompeii.
Day 21
Return to Naples for your onward flight.
Parts of a statue in the Capitoline Museums, Rome
www.audleytravel.com/italy • 01993 838960 • Venice, Florence & Rome
15
Northern Italy T
he combination of exquisite lakes backed by lush mountains, rolling countryside laced with vineyards, untouched medieval villages, dramatic coastlines and a superb collection of regional foods and wines, makes northern Italy an alluring destination. Milan is its cosmopolitan hub and blends cutting-edge design with a magnificent Gothic cathedral and numerous art galleries. Flanking the city are Italy’s former capital, Turin and romantic Verona, the setting for Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet. The beguiling Italian lakes lie beyond, their shores lined with opulent villas and lavish gardens. Further south, the undulating hills and vineyards of Piedmont unfold, and Tuscany’s olive groves and cypress alleys surround romantic hilltop villages and towns such as Lucca, Siena and San Gimignano. In Liguria, pastel-hued villages cling precariously to the plunging coastline of the Cinque Terre, a region known for the breathtaking hiking trails that link the impossibly picturesque villages. In central Emilia-Romagna food is the draw with Bologna, Modena and Parma renowned for their gastronomic offerings as well as their medieval architecture and atmospheric streets.
Audley in northern Italy
Lake Como
Menaggio Varenna Tremezzo Bellagio Laglio Stresa Como
Lake Maggiore
Lake Garda
I
I
I
I I
I
I
I I I
I I
4
I
I
I
I
I I I I I
I
Venice
I I I I
LOMBARDY
I
I
I I I I I
VENETO
I
I
I
I
I I I I
I I
I I
I
I
I
I I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I I
I I I I
Montepulciano
I
I
I
I I
I
I
I
Montalcino
I I I I
I I
I
Gaiole in Chianti
7
5 Bologna
An affluent city home to Europe’s oldest university and renowned for its gastronomy. See page 28
I I
6 Porto Venere A pretty seaside town which is an excellent base for exploring the Cinque Terre. See page 26
I I I I I
4 Opera in Verona Where gladiatorial battles once raged, the Roman arena now hosts open-air opera. See page 21
I I I
I
I
I
I
3 Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper, Milan This Renaissance masterpiece adorns the refectory of the humble Convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie. See page 20
I
The lakeside towns of Mennagio, Varenna and Bellagio boast picturesque waterfronts lined with lively piazzas, boutiques and local life. See page 18
I I
I
I
2 Lake Como
I
I
I
I
I I I I
I
I
I I I I
I
I
TUSCANY
I I
1 Langhe Rolling Piedmont countryside filled with medieval villages and vineyards. See page 23
I
Siena
I
Chianti
I
Tavarnelle Val di Pesa San Gimignano
I
I
Florence
I
I I
Ligurian Sea
I
Pisa
I
50 kilometres
Lucca
I
I
I
I
0
I
30 miles
I
I
0
I
I
I
Cinque Terre 6 Porto Venere
I
I
I I I
Ravenna I
I
I
I
I
ITALY
I
I
I I
I
I I I
Bologna
I
I I
I
I I
5
I
I
I
Santa Margherita Genoa Ligure Pontremoli Chaivari Portofino Sestri Levante
I
I
I
LIGURIA
I
I
I
I I
Modena
EMILIA-ROMAGNA
I
I
I
Parma
I
I
Langhe
I
Barolo Monforte d’Alba
Neive Santo Stefano Belbo
I I I I I
1 Barbaresco
I
I
I
I
I
I I I
I I
I
I
I
I
I I
Turin
Verona I
I
I
I
I I I I I I I I I
I
I I
I
I
I I I I I I I I I I
I
PIEDMONT
I I
I
I
I
I
I I I I Linate
I
I
I I
I
I
I
Milan
I I I I I I I I I I I I
I
Lake Iseo
I
3
Malpensa
I I I I
TRENTINOALTO ADIGE
I
Lake Orta
I I
Borromean Islands
I I
2
I
The accommodation here is some of the most varied in the country. Around the Italian Lakes you will find many heritage properties that were built as private palazzi for aristocratic families or as exclusive retreats for the wealthy who roamed Europe on their ‘Grand Tour’. Some feature the Belle Époque decor, fashionable at the time, while others are chic and contemporary. In the cities, hotels vary from the classically elegant to the design-driven properties found in Milan. You could choose to stay in a former medieval monastery in Tuscany, a hotel surrounded by vineyards in Piedmont or a stylishly transformed Franciscan convent on the Ligurian Riviera. We have carefully chosen all the accommodation we use for its location, charm or individual appeal.
Locarno
I I I I I I
I
Accommodation
I
I
Domodossola
I
Our specialists know northern Italy intimately and can offer revealing insights into the lesser-known attractions of the region and how to see the major sights without the crowds. First-time visitors will not want to miss the art and architecture of Verona and Milan, but we aim to take you beyond the obvious. We offer the chance to tour Milan’s boutiques with a personal shopper or to visit the vineyards surrounding Verona for some wine tasting. On the Italian Lakes we like to provide a more intimate experience, with private boat tours led by some of the region’s finest guides. In Piedmont you can take a tour of local wineries with a sommelier, while in Bologna you can sample the local delicacies which make Emilia-Romagna so popular with food lovers. We can take you to well-preserved medieval villages in the Tuscan countryside, or in Liguria you can visit the pretty pastel-tinted villages that dot the coastline. With so much to discover we can also advise on how best to combine northern Italy with other parts of the country.
SWITZERLAND
Lake Maggiore Express
7 Siena
A wonderful Tuscan city home of the Palio horse race. See page 30
www.audleytravel.com/italy • 01993 838960 • Northern Italy
17
Tremezzo, Lake Como
Lake Como The deep blue waters, wooded hillsides and elegant villas surrounding Lake Como have long beguiled generations of visitors from European aristocrats to the Hollywood glitterati. Shaped like an upside-down Y, the three arms of the lake converge at the attractive town of Bellagio with its cafe-lined waterfront and lively port full of fishing boats. Other lakeside towns such as Tremezzo, Varenna and Menaggio are perhaps even more picturesque, boasting luxurious lakeside villas and spectacular gardens. Finally, at the southwestern tip of the lake, the prosperous city of Como has an impressive medieval Duomo, historic, winding streets and charming boutiques.
Grand Hotel Tremezzo
18
Grand Hotel Tremezzo In 1910 the Grand Hotel Tremezzo opened its doors to Europe’s most refined clientele. Today, the hotel’s Art Nouveau architecture and impressive views still draw visitors wishing to enjoy the timeless beauty of Lake Como. Facing the lake, the hotel’s façade is dominated by two grand staircases sweeping up to the main entrance. Inside, you’ll find a modern take on Belle Époque style with all 90 rooms and suites tastefully furnished to remain true to the hotel’s heritage. Cross the road and there’s a floating pool on the lake with an adjoining bar. Behind, you’ll find manicured grounds set into the hillside with sun terraces, a pool, gym and spa.
Kayaking trip, Lake Como
Kayaking on Lake Como Lake Como’s serene waters, rugged hillsides and villas with gardens that run to its shores are all the more enchanting when seen from the water. A two-hour kayaking trip along the lakeshore gives access to hidden bays and coves unseen from the roadside and offers a tranquil way to see the lake from a new perspective. The tour begins at the pretty fishing harbour of Pescallo and takes you around the headland of Punta Spartivento close to Bellagio. It is led by local guide, Michele, who was born and raised here and can offer an insider’s understanding of the lake’s history, geology and traditions. Before returning to Pescallo you’ll enjoy a drink on the water while admiring the views.
Bellagio, Lake Como
Exploring the Italian Lakes
Como, Lake Como
The best way to experience the Italian Lakes is by private boat. With your own personal guide, you can enjoy the freedom of exploring at a relaxed pace, away from the crowds and unrestricted by ferry timetables. Where possible, you will be picked up directly from your hotel’s private jetty and will be able to visit sections of the lake that would otherwise be inaccessible. Similar to Venetian water taxis, the comfortable boats offer protection from the elements should you need it but also offer space to enjoy the sun and take in the scenery. We particularly recommend private boats for visiting the Borromean Islands in Lake Maggiore and cruising around Lake Como. Isola dei Pescatori, Lake Maggiore
Lake Maggiore One of the most beautiful of Italy’s northern lakes, Lake Maggiore is known for its clear blue waters, mild Mediterranean climate and beautiful Belle Époque villas. The most scenic part of the lake is the Borromean Gulf between the towns of Stresa and Verbania where the picturesque Borromean Islands play host to the Borromeo family’s grand Baroque palaces, elaborate gardens and botanical collections. Isola Madre and Isola Bella are a delight to explore, while Isola Superiore, more commonly known as Isola dei Pescatori (fishermen’s island), has the authentic charm of a more humble fishing community. Inhabited throughout the year, Pescatori has a series of delightful waterfront restaurants and cafes offering panoramic lakeside views.
Hotel Regina Palace, Stresa Elegant and charming, the Hotel Regina Palace is located close to the heart of Stresa, overlooking the lakeside promenade and surrounded by lush gardens. The hotel has some of the best views of the Borromean Islands and the surrounding waters. Each of the 224 rooms is decorated in a classic Italian style and the lobby is filled with period furniture, chandeliers and a grand staircase. Many rooms boast views of Lake Maggiore and the Borromean Islands, and others overlook the nearby park. To the back of the property you will find a large open-air pool as well as an indoor pool, gym and spa. Lake Maggiore Express
Lake Maggiore Express One of northern Italy’s most spectacular rail journeys, the Lake Maggiore Express travels through the Alpine foothills to Locarno in Switzerland. Meandering north from the shores of Lake Maggiore, the journey takes you through the scenic Centovalli (hundred valleys) area which is filled with dramatic bridges offering glimpses of the valleys far below. After a stop at the village of Santa Maria Maggiore and a quick exploration of Locarno you return by ferry across the waters of Lake Maggiore. You can relax on the sundeck and soak up the beautiful scenery and views of the lakeside towns en route.
Garden on Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore
Hotel Regina Palace, Stresa
www.audleytravel.com/italy • 01993 838960 • Northern Italy
19
Duomo, Milan
Milan Italy’s high-powered financial, industrial and style capital, Milan is home to the country’s stock exchange and most renowned fashion houses, as well as two major football teams. Below the surface you’ll find a city of high culture, where Leonardo da Vinci spent much of his life and where the critics at La Scala opera house are as well-known as its musical dramas. Milan’s most impressive landmark, the Gothic Duomo, is a fairy tale structure of spires, statues and intricately detailed carvings. Construction began in 1386, but it was 600 years before the extravagant project was completed. Today, much of the city has been recently regenerated, with public spaces restored to their former glory and canal sides reclaimed by new cafes and restaurants.
La Scala, Milan
20
Bulgari Hotel, Milan
Leonardo da Vinci’s ‘Last Supper’ One of the most famous artworks in the world, Leonardo da Vinci’s ‘Last Supper’ is located on the wall of the refectory of Milan’s unassuming Convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie. This incredible work of art, famed for its use of light and perspective, was commissioned by Da Vinci’s patron, Ludovico Sforza. Since its completion it has had to survive numerous restoration attempts as well as the near destruction of the building during Allied bombing in World War II. Extensively restored over a period of 21 years and only returned to public view in 1999, it is now, understandably, one of the most visited sites in Milan.
Set within its own leafy grounds just steps from the main fashion district, the Bulgari Hotel makes for a stylish and luxurious retreat from the bustling streets. It is a chic, sophisticated and meticulously designed extension of the luxury goods brand, offering 69 rooms and suites featuring contemporary Italian furniture, floor-to-ceiling windows and earthy tones. On sunny evenings, the terrace and lawn are the perfect place to enjoy a relaxing aperitivo and if you need some extra pampering, there is an extensive spa, complete with a small indoor relaxation pool, sauna and steam room. The hotel’s excellent service makes it one of our preferred choices for a stay within the city.
Bulgari Hotel, Milan
Piazza Signori, Verona
Canalside restaurants, Milan
Piazza delle Erbe, Verona
Verona
Due Torri Hotel, Verona One of Verona’s most prestigious hotels, the Due Torri boasts an air of understated elegance. The hotel is set in a grand 14th-century palazzo and has hosted many prestigious figures from Mozart to Napoleon III over the years. Inside, the 89 rooms have classically elegant furnishings and tasteful decor that make for a particularly comfortable stay. The highlight though, is the wonderful roof terrace where you can enjoy spectacular views across the city to the countryside beyond. The Due Torri is ideally located within the heart of Verona, overlooking the beautiful Piazza di Sant’Anastasia, and makes an excellent base for exploring the city.
Best known as the setting for Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet, Verona is an incredibly romantic city with a rich architectural heritage. It is strategically set at the intersection of two vital trade routes and has been an important cultural and commercial crossroads since the 3rd century. Today, its streets reveal their rich, multi-layered history at every turn and the enchanting medieval core is a labyrinth of cobbled lanes and grand squares peppered with ancient Roman structures. The most complete of these is the wonderful Roman arena which hosts the opera festival.
Romeo and Juliet While it is said that Shakespeare never actually visited Verona, it is easy to picture his fictional star-crossed lovers as you wander around the city’s medieval heart. The cobbled streets and narrow alleyways lined with grand houses are undeniably romantic and the city’s history is rich with stories of local family feuds that could have inspired Shakespeare’s tragic tale. Today, the city embraces its association with Romeo and Juliet and the courtyard and balcony of the so-called ‘Casa di Giulietta’ on Via Cappello attracts many visitors. For those happy to suspend their disbelief there’s nowhere better to pay homage to the tragic love story.
Opera in Verona Constructed in the 1st century AD, Verona’s monumental Roman arena, once home to gladiatorial battles, becomes the magical setting for the city’s summer opera festival. The arena is acclaimed for its excellent acoustics and attracts some of the biggest names in opera. Productions here are of epic proportions and regularly feature over 1,000 cast members who treat visitors from around the world to spine-tingling performances in the most atmospheric of settings. Due Torri Hotel, Verona
www.audleytravel.com/italy • 01993 838960 • Northern Italy
21
Turin skyline
Turin
Egyptian Museum
A handsome city of wide boulevards, arcaded walkways and grand piazzas, Turin is a cosmopolitan place known for its fine food and wine, palaces and galleries, and industrial innovation. The city was the first capital of the unified Italy and is the home to a large university as well as the venerated Holy Shroud of Turin. It stretches along the banks of the Po River against a backdrop of the Alps and has a slower pace of life than nearby Milan. There’s an efficient metro system to help you get around, a vibrant arts scene and plenty of attractions such as Eataly, a vast Slow Food market, and the old Fiat factory with its rooftop test track. Turin is also a good base for exploring the Piedmont countryside.
Housed in an enormous Baroque-style building in the heart of Turin, the Egyptian Museum is the oldest of its kind in the world, opening its doors in 1824, nine years before its counterpart in Cairo. Highlights of the impressive collection include the oldest copy of the Book of the Dead, the intact Tomb of Kha and Merit, and a collection of statues representing all the kings of the New Kingdom. The museum is large enough that it is easy to feel overwhelmed so we recommend exploring with a private guide who will really bring the collection to life. As well as leading you to the most prized exhibits and explaining their significance, they will help you to understand how and why such an important museum came to be housed outside Egypt.
Cafe culture, Turin
22
TownHouse 70, Turin
TownHouse 70, Turin Set in a grand 19 th-century building in the heart of Turin, TownHouse 70 is a stylish boutique hotel with a relaxed atmosphere and a convenient location just a few minutes’ walk from some of the city’s most renowned attractions. Inside, contemporary art decorates the walls and a tranquil internal courtyard offers a serene retreat from the city streets. The hotel’s 48 spacious guest rooms are decorated in a pared-back, minimalist style and some have balconies overlooking the courtyard or the streets of Turin. Although the hotel has no restaurant, there is a great choice of dining options in the immediate area. A buffet breakfast is served communally around a large table in the dining room or on the private terrace, and snacks and aperitifs are served in the late afternoon in the internal courtyard.
Artefacts in the Egyptian Museum, Turin
Mushroom seller, Alba
Alfresco dining, Alba
Barbaresco, the Langhe
Relais San Maurizio, Santo Stefano Belbo
Prized white truffles, Piedmont
Piedmont countryside Rich soil, plenty of sunshine and an innate appreciation of the fruits of the land, make Piedmont a gourmet’s delight. The Langhe, a hilly region in southeast Piedmont, is renowned for its vineyards, sweet hazelnut trees and woods that provide prized truffles. The area encompasses the UNESCO-protected landscapes of the Barolo and Barbaresco wine regions and with characterful hotels set on historic wine estates, top-class restaurants and fewer visitors than the Tuscan wine regions, it’s a delightful place to slow down and relish life’s simple pleasures. The landscape is dotted with little hilltop villages dating back to medieval times and here, and in the main town of Alba, you can expect to feast on fine food and wine, meet small-scale food producers and get closer to the real Italy.
Set in a 17th-century building, formerly a Cistercian monastery, the Relais San Maurizio is a sophisticated Relais & Chateaux hotel surrounded by vineyards. The historic charm of the original buildings remains intact but the monastic life has been replaced by state-of-the art facilities and a Michelin-starred restaurant. The atmosphere is serene and the rooms combine characterful traditional details with modern comforts, while the six spacious suites in the San Luigi building are more contemporary in style and have private gardens or patios and open fireplaces. Dining here is a highlight with a fine-dining restaurant working on Slow Food principles, a more informal bistro, and a bar stocked with local wines. Take a cooking class, relax in the spa or simply stroll through the estate and the surrounding vineyards.
San Michele church, Neive
Neive One of Italy’s official borghi più belli (most beautiful towns), the medieval hilltop village of Neive is a renowned wine-making hub and surrounded by rolling hills laced with vineyards. Its cobbled streets meander around the hill in a circular fashion, Baroque villas, fortified houses, small chapels and the remains of the old town walls giving it a characterful, old-world charm. Brightly painted houses, enotecas and restaurants with window boxes overflowing with blooms lead up to the castle, an ornate 18 th-century structure built on the foundations of previous fortifications. Although the castle remains a private dwelling, you can visit the large cellars for a wine tasting. Alternatively you can walk through the surrounding vineyards and visit family-run wineries producing Barbaresco, Barbera d’Alba, Moscato and Dolcetto d’Alba.
Relais San Maurizio, Santo Stefano Belbo
www.audleytravel.com/italy • 01993 838960 • Northern Italy
23
Trifulau, Piedmont
Truffle Hunting
Slow Food Opposing the opening of a fast-food restaurant by the Spanish Steps in Rome in 1986, Carlo Petrini and a group of activists began a movement to champion local food, traditional culinary techniques and sustainable agriculture instead. The group was based in Bra in Piedmont and their Slow Food movement quickly became a globallysupported initiative to safeguard regional traditions and promote local produce. Today, the Slow Food ethos is heartily embraced across Piedmont by many hotels and restaurants. Small-scale producers are the backbone of the region’s highly-regarded food traditions and we can arrange visits to hazelnut farms, cheesemakers and small wineries as well as to the Wine Bank in Pollenzo.
Gastronomy is taken very seriously in Piedmont and the prize ingredient is the truffle, a delicacy that commands high prices on the global market. White truffles from Alba are the world’s most expensive and the region’s trifulau (truffle hunters) and their highly-trained dogs are well respected. Spending a couple of hours with one of the truffle hunters is a revealing experience. As you walk through the woods, you’ll learn about how the dogs are trained and the conditions needed to produce the truffles, as well as seeing the duo in action. A variety of truffles can be found in Piedmont year round: black truffles can be used in cooking, but the more delicate white truffles are best shaved onto your dish raw. Once you’ve had some time to find the delicacy in the woods, you’ll head to a local farmhouse to enjoy lunch featuring a range of truffle products.
Views across the Po Valley, near Monforte d’Alba
24
Villa Beccaris, Monforte d’Alba
Villa Beccaris, Monforte d’Alba Located on top of a hill in Monforte d’Alba, the 18th-century Villa Beccaris offers views of the Alps, the Barolo hills and undulating vineyards from most of its guest rooms. Mature trees and gardens offer shady nooks and the terracottatiled roofs and ochre walls are classically Italian. Inside, the ground floor has a lounge, bar and enoteca, while upstairs, the 23 rooms are individually styled in a traditional fashion with antique furniture, bright rugs and frescoed ceilings. The highlight of the property is the wrought-iron breakfast room with its floor-toceiling windows overlooking the Piedmontese countryside. The hotel does not have a restaurant but there are several dining options available within a five-minute walk. There’s an outdoor swimming pool in the garden, parkland to explore and options for longer walks into the heart of the Barolo and Barbaresco wine regions.
Sampling the wine in Gaiole in Chianti, Tuscany
Italian wine Venture almost anywhere in the Italian countryside and you’ll pass field after field of vines. Italy produces a wide range of wine thanks to its varied terrain, and both blended wines (those made with several varieties) and varietal wines (those made with predominantly one grape variety) are on offer. Discovering a good local wine recommended by your waiter is one of the country’s true delights. Tuscan wines Tuscany is home to some of the most popular and prestigious wines in Italy. The Chianti wine region, close to Florence, is renowned for its Chianti Classico, which is easily identified by its black rooster symbol. The region produces many other good quality red wines as well as the renowned Vin Santo, a sweet wine often enjoyed with cantucci
Symbol of Chianti Classico, Tuscany
Vin Santo with cantucci, Tuscany
biscuits. Montalcino in southern Tuscany is another good area to visit. Brunello di Montalcino, one of the most esteemed red wines in Italy, is produced here as is the sweet white Moscadello di Montalcino and the fresh, vibrant red Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Piedmont wines Although Piedmont wines aren’t as well known as their Tuscan counterparts, they’re equally good. The two best known, highquality red wines are Barolo and Barbaresco. They both use the nebbiolo grape and are often referred to as the king and queen of wines. However, barbera grapes form almost half of the vine plantings in the area and are used to make Barbera d’Asti and Barbera d’Alba. White wines to look out for here are the fruity Roero Arneis and Moscato d’Asti, a light, sweet dessert wine.
Wine classifications Only the top Italian wines such as Barolo, Barbaresco, Chianti and Prosecco Superiore qualify for the coveted Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) label. Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) wines are much more common, but are still produced using traditional methods using grapes from well-defined regions. Some DOC wines you may come across as you travel include Vesuvio, which is produced on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius, Costa d’Amalfi from the Amalfi Coast, and Locorotondo from Puglia. Italy also boasts a wide range of regional wines including the fragrant falanghina from the Campania region, the full-bodied primitivo from Puglia and sweet Sicilian Marsala. Wherever you visit, asking for a recommendation for something local will be received with enthusiasm and regional pride.
Barbera grapes, Piedmont
www.audleytravel.com/italy • 01993 838960 • Northern Italy
25
Boats in the marina, Porto Venere
Porto Venere Overlooking the striking Gulf of Poets, the town of Porto Venere is one of the jewels of Italy’s Ligurian coastline. Located within easy distance of the villages of the Cinque Terre, Porto Venere is easily as beautiful. Protected by a rocky promontory that is home to the attractively striped San Pietro Church, the town still resembles a citadel with narrow, painted houses forming a barrier against attack. Fishing boats bob lazily in the confines of the picturesque marina and restaurants spill out onto the waterfront. For those looking to explore the Cinque Terre, Porto Venere offers an excellent base with regular daily ferries linking the different villages, significantly fewer visitors and a wonderful sense of peace that is often lost in the busier Cinque Terre itself.
San Pietro Church, Porto Venere
26
Grand Hotel Portovenere
Grand Hotel Portovenere A converted Franciscan convent, the Grand Hotel Portovenere’s pretty pink and cream façade overlooks Porto Venere’s medieval waterfront. Ferries to the Cinque Terre depart from the dock just outside and the winding shop and restaurant-filled lanes of the town are just steps away. Inside, the historic structure of the building has been artfully renovated to offer an air of modern luxury while still remaining true to its roots. In the main bar area, you’ll find an original brick vaulted ceiling but it’s the fantastic views across the Gulf of Poets and Porto Venere from the large terrace and restaurant that are the real draw. The hotel’s 50 rooms have been stylishly decorated in neutral tones with parquet floors and sumptuous bedding.
Hiking in the Cinque Terre The dramatic landscape of the Cinque Terre and well-established trails make the area a wonderful spot to enjoy some hiking. A series of steep unpaved paths link the villages with routes that take you past farms and vineyards as well as lemon and orange groves. The trails loosely follow the jagged coastline, occasionally plunging inland to climb up into the forests or vineyards before opening up to wide vistas of the Ligurian Sea.
Manarola, Cinque Terre
Portofino
Decorated façade, Santa Margherita Ligure
Belmond Hotel Splendido, Portofino
Santa Margherita Ligure
Portofino & Santa Margherita Ligure
Belmond Hotel Splendido & Splendido Mare, Portofino
Strade Nuove or ‘new streets’, built by wealthy merchants in the 16th and 17th centuries. This collection of palatial houses is now UNESCO protected and home to some wonderful museums and galleries. Along with grand architecture and fascinating museums, Genoa is known for its excellent food, including the city’s most renowned invention pesto alla Genovese, the classic green pesto now in use around the world, and focaccia Genovese, a tasty handstretched bread sometimes seasoned with rosemary or oregano.
Set along the fashionable Ligurian Riviera, Portofino and Santa Margherita Ligure are two of the region’s most popular retreats. Portofino has been a haunt of Hollywood stars since the 1950s and the once-quiet village with its picturesque houses has been transformed into one of Europe’s most exclusive destinations. Humble fishing boats have been replaced by super yachts and chic designer boutiques line the streets. Just a short distance up the coast, the brightly-painted waterfront of Santa Margherita Ligure is equally alluring but far less ostentatious. Medieval churches and intricately adorned Stile Liberty buildings, a type of Italian Art Nouveau, line the cobbled streets, while the remains of a 15thcentury castle overlook the marina, public beach, casual restaurants and local markets below.
Via Garibaldi in Strade Nuove, Genoa
Portofino’s most prestigious hotel, the Belmond Hotel Splendido offers sweeping views of the town and bay from its striking hillside location. A former Benedictine monastery, the hotel is timelessly elegant and offers 67 beautifully furnished rooms. Within its extensive terraced grounds you will find immaculate gardens, a heated saltwater swimming pool, spa, tennis court and well-equipped gym. The highlight is the wonderful La Terrazza Restaurant which offers an unbeatable vista across the bay. Also part of the hotel is the charming 17 room annexe of the Splendido Mare, located on the waterfront in Portofino’s main square. Guests here can use all the facilities of the main hotel and there is a complimentary shuttle service between the two.
Genoa There is something gritty but hugely alluring about the port city of Genoa, the birthplace of Christopher Columbus. Once a powerful seafaring city-state in its own right, the Republic of Genoa controlled the coastline from Nice to Liguria and held dominion over Sardinia, Corsica and much of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Along with this power came vast riches and the city flourished. Today, the old town is a labyrinth of dark, narrow streets that open onto grand squares and boulevards, the highlight of which are the stately
Ligurian Riviera boat trip Exploring the Ligurian coastline by boat offers views of sparkling blue sea, rugged cliffs and quaint villages. Setting off from Santa Margherita Ligure, you’ll have the choice to stop for a swim or get off and explore as you go. Visit the sandy beach of Parragi or highly fashionable Portofino where designer boutiques share awnings with local gelaterias. The tiny cove of San Fruttoso is the next stop, where a 10 th-century abbey sits on a small, stone beach. Only accessible by boat, it’s a great spot for swimming and snorkeling with the submerged statue of Christ of the Abyss lying deep below the surface. Finally, the scenic town of Camogli with its brightly-painted buildings lining a small port offers you the opportunity to disembark and explore before heading back to Santa Margherita Ligure.
www.audleytravel.com/italy • 01993 838960 • Northern Italy
27
Piazza Maggiore, Bologna
Bologna An affluent city home to Europe’s oldest university, Bologna is also one of Italy’s most beautiful. An extensive system of porticoes line the streets connecting the central Piazza Maggiore with every corner of the city. Measuring 53 kilometres (33 miles) in all, some of these colonnaded passageways date back as far as the 11th century and shelter everything from grand Gothic and Renaissance palazzi to elaborate churches. The most charming and atmospheric area is the Quadrilatero where a tangle of narrow streets host quaint cafes alongside traditional bakeries, cheesemongers, butchers and fruit sellers. Another of the city’s most notable sights is the university’s 17th-century Anatomical Theatre, its woodpanelled walls elaborately carved and adorned with statues of revered historical physicians. Bologna is perhaps most renowned though for its gastronomy, home of ragù alla Bolognese, a slow cooked and intensely flavoured sauce made with beef, which is served with another local speciality, tagliatelle. The city is also known as the home of tortellini, the hand-made varieties being particularly worth sampling, and mortadella, a mildly-spiced sausage made from ground pork.
Grand Hotel Majestic già Baglioni, Bologna
Cutting tagliatelle, Bologna
Built in the 18 th century, the opulent Grand Hotel Majestic già Baglioni is the oldest hotel in Bologna. Entering the main lobby, you are greeted by frescoed walls, a black-and-white tiled floor, Murano glass chandeliers and a wide, sweeping staircase. The lavish decor extends to the guest rooms too, which are filled with sumptuous fabrics and antique furniture. The hotel’s well-respected fine-dining restaurant, I Carracci, is decorated with a number of frescoes from the Carracci school of Bolognese artists and is the perfect spot to enjoy a delicious meal. Also on display is a preserved portion of the Roman road that used to run under the hotel, offering a glimpse at the ancient history of the city.
Bologna cooking classes The Emilia-Romagna region is widely known for its delicious local dishes making it a great place to take part in a cooking class. Your chef will guide you through the lesson where you will be taught the preparation techniques and shown how to create a full Bolognese meal. After you have finished making it you will sit down to enjoy your meal together with a glass of wine. There is also the option to add a visit to the market with the chef before the class so that you can select the ingredients for your meal. Grand Hotel Majestic già Baglioni, Bologna
28
Byzantine mosaic in the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo, Ravenna
Market stall in the Quadrilatero, Bologna
Statue on Piazza Giuseppi Garibaldi, Parma
Piazza Roma, Modena
Parma & Modena Two affluent cities renowned for their historic architecture, high culture and fine food, Parma and Modena offer cobbled medieval streets, grandiose squares and striking architecture. Both cities boast stunning examples of Romanesque cathedrals; Modena’s is considered one of the purest examples of this architectural style in Italy while the brightly frescoed interior of Parma’s 12th-century Duomo is notably home to Correggio’s ‘Assumption of the Virgin’ a seminal piece of late Renaissance work. Along with history and the arts, Parma and Modena are also lauded for their superb food and wine, and browsing the numerous delis and lingering over a long lunch are consummate pleasures.
Romanesque stone lion, Modena
Ferrari & Lamborghini experience
Basilica di San Vitale, Ravenna
Ravenna An unassuming city home to eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites, Ravenna flourished during the early Middle Ages and briefly became one of Europe’s most important cities. The glories of this time remain in the town’s magnificent early Christian monuments which house some of Europe’s most important examples of Byzantine mosaic work. Dante, Lord Byron and Oscar Wilde all wrote of the city’s treasures and a trip around the city’s churches reveals why. The incredible wealth of the early church and the highly-skilled craftsmanship of the workers has resulted in some of Italy’s most magnificent interiors, including the octagonal Basilica di San Vitale which is blanketed in an exquisite array of glittering mosaics whose intricacy and detail is quite spellbinding.
Spend a day learning about two of Italy’s most acclaimed car makers as you tour the area between Bologna and Modena affectionately known as Motor Valley. You will visit the Lamborghini Museum, located in Sant’Agata Bolognese around a 45-minute drive from Bologna. The museum celebrates Automobili Lamborghini’s commitment to providing dream cars and the brand’s historical legacy. In the afternoon, you’ll head to Maranello, a small town just outside Modena and the home of Ferrari. As well as exploring the museum with a guide, there is the option to take a bus tour around the factory complex to see Enzo Ferrari’s house and the test track used to perfect the team’s Formula 1 cars. For those wanting to do more than look, we can also arrange private Ferrari test drives on a nearby racetrack or a selection of longer road tours.
Ferrari Museum, Maranello
www.audleytravel.com/italy • 01993 838960 • Northern Italy
29
Alfieri at the Palio, Siena
Siena
Cypress trees, Tuscany
Tuscany A highly seductive medley of historic cities, rolling hills and terraced vineyards, Tuscany offers the quintessential Italian experience. From olive groves and cypress trees to romantic villages perched on rocky hilltops, the landscape here has become a symbol of the country as a whole. The region’s cities boast an astonishing legacy of art and architecture, from the Renaissance masterpieces and world-class museums of Florence to Pisa’s iconic tower and the medieval charm of Lucca, Siena and San Gimignano. You can spend your days wandering around art galleries, strolling down cobbled lanes flanked by Gothic townhouses, and relaxing over coffee in handsome piazzas before topping it off with gourmet food and fine wine. 30
A living testament to Italy’s medieval past, Siena is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a wonderful showcase of Gothic architecture. Its incredible preservation owes much to historical circumstance and its loss of wealth, power and influence to arch-rival Florence, following the city’s devastation by the Black Death in 1348. Siena’s abrupt decline halted further development and unlike many of Italy’s other historical cities, it escaped the blight of largescale development projects and retains a magical atmosphere. Siena is also home to the bareback Palio horse race between the city’s rival districts, that dates back to the 17th century.
View of San Gimignano
Grand Hotel Continental, Siena
Grand Hotel Continental, Siena
The elegant Grand Hotel Continental is located in the heart of the city, just steps from the central Piazza del Campo and surrounded by Siena’s atmospheric medieval streets. It is set in a grand former palace which dates from the 17th century and features a frescoed ballroom, sweeping travertine staircase and priceless artworks. In keeping with its history, many of its 51 guestrooms are decorated with original antiques, sumptuous fabrics and other elegant touches, while at the same time featuring all the amenities you would expect in a modern hotel. Rooms to the back of the property also offer panoramic views out across the roofs of the city to the rolling Tuscan countryside.
Pizzicheria, Siena
Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, Lucca
View to the Duomo, Siena
Campo dei Miracoli, Pisa
San Gimignano
Pisa & Lucca
Exploring Pontremoli
The walled medieval village of San Gimignano, halfway between Florence and Siena, is perched on the top of a hill in typical Tuscan style. Its beautifully preserved streets are dominated by a forest of 12th and 13th-century towers built by the village’s noble inhabitants as competing symbols of their wealth. At its peak there were 72 towers, though just 14 remain today. San Gimignano’s picturesque rural setting and atmospheric architecture make it a popular day trip from Florence and you’ll find plenty of good trattorias, along with shops selling locallyproduced saffron and the fruity, white Vernaccia di San Gimignano wine.
Thanks to its leaning tower, Pisa is known the world over. However, the tower is just one of a collection of magnificent buildings in the Campo dei Miracoli (Field of Miracles) that date to the city’s heyday as a major maritime power between the 11th and 13th centuries. Equally fascinating is the nearby medieval city of Lucca. As well as being the birthplace of composer Puccini, it is known for its impressive 17th-century city walls which can be explored on foot. Below them, a compact maze of Gothic palazzi and cobbled alleyways open out unexpectedly onto piazzas, notably the oval Piazza dell’Anfiteatro which was built on the remains of a Roman arena.
At the confluence of the Magra and Verde rivers in northern Tuscany, Pontremoli was once a town of great importance. Its location at the foot of the Apennine Mountains meant that pilgrims following the Via Francigena considered it ‘the key and the door’ to Tuscany. The impressive 10 th-century Piagnaro Castle dominates the town’s highest point and is surrounded by a warren of medieval alleyways, while the lower sections are filled with stately Baroque palaces. Exploring the town with a guide you’ll learn about its history and strategic importance in times past, visit some of the many artisans who work here, walk under colonnaded arches, see the 17th-century cathedral and take a behind-thescenes tour of one of the grand palaces not normally open to the public.
San Luca Palace Hotel, Lucca Located just inside Lucca’s historic walls and a ten-minute walk from the heart of the city, the San Luca Palace Hotel is well positioned for you to explore the medieval city. There are just 26 guest rooms allowing for an intimate and friendly atmosphere. On the ground floor there is a welcoming lobby area with an adjacent bar that opens out onto the street, and a pleasant sitting room as well as a small, but elegant, breakfast room. Upstairs, each room is decorated in a classical style with accents of deep green or rich red. All have wooden floors and thick brocade curtains. The hotel also has bicycles available for guests to use during their stay. San Luca Palace Hotel, Lucca
Harvesting grapes, San Gimignano
Pontremoli
www.audleytravel.com/italy • 01993 838960 • Northern Italy
31
Vineyards around Gaiole in Chianti
Tuscan countryside Beyond Tuscany’s beguiling cities lies an equally impressive landscape of rolling hills and handsome medieval villages. With a slow pace of life, plenty of characterful accommodation and fine food and wine to enjoy, rural Tuscany is one of the best bases in Italy to relax for a few days. You can visit the vineyards of Chianti and Montepulciano, take a leisurely walk or bike ride down quiet lanes, go in search of truffles with a truffle hunter and their dog, or simply enjoy the superb views. Appreciating the simple things in life is an art form here and relishing a good meal, chatting with friends and taking the time to explore the countryside is the perfect contrast to the high culture of Tuscany’s cities.
Dining alfresco in Montalcino, Tuscany
32
Castello del Nero, Tavarnelle Val di Pesa, Chianti
Badia a Coltibuono, Gaiole in Chianti
Badia a Coltibuono, Gaiole in Chianti Housed within an 11th-century monastery, Badia a Coltibuono, is a rustic escape right in the heart of Chianti. It is set in a bucolic stretch of countryside and has an incredibly tranquil atmosphere. The former refectory is now a beautifully frescoed drawing room while the monks’ cells have been transformed in to 17 comfortably furnished guest rooms that offer charming views of the courtyards, surrounding valleys or the gardens. The ancient flagstone courtyard is just as it would have looked to countless pilgrims seeking hospitality at the monastery. Aside from the historic buildings, a small swimming pool has been added and is tucked away behind the main gardens. Descending underground, you’ll find the monastery’s ancient wine cellars that are still in use today.
Surrounded by olive groves and vineyards, the Castello del Nero offers an elegant and luxurious retreat in the Tuscan countryside. Originally a 12th-century estate with extensive grounds, the views from the main terrace are superb. The 50 rooms and suites are situated within the original manor house, surrounding stables and outbuildings and boast features such as exposed wood-beam ceilings, terracotta floors and original frescoes. A Michelin-starred executive chef oversees the menus at the property’s two restaurants while the luxurious spa offers a range of therapeutic treatments. There is a pool to relax by and there are plenty of hiking trails around the estate. Wine and olive oil tastings can also be arranged.
Castello del Nero, Tavarnelle Val di Pesa
Symbol of Chianti, Tuscany
Views near Tavarnelle Val di Pesa, Chianti
San Biagio in the fog, Montepulciano
Beehives in a field of sunflowers, Tuscany
Medieval streets of Montepulciano
Villa Cicolina, Montepulciano
Monteverdi, Castiglioncello del Trinoro
Monteverdi, Castiglioncello del Trinoro, near Montepulciano Located in the tiny hilltop village of Castiglioncello del Trinoro, Monteverdi offers a wonderfully authentic Tuscan experience. The property’s 12 luxurious rooms and suites are spread across the village’s original buildings and offer commanding views over the Tuscan countryside. There’s a charming little wine bar in the square next to the church, and the hotel’s fine dining restaurant and breakfast room are located down one of the winding side streets. Between each of the buildings, pretty terraced gardens offer tranquil spots to rest in the sunshine and enjoy the incredible views, or you can relax by the pool. While most of the village is now part of the hotel, there are still a few elderly residents who make their home here.
Surrounded by immaculate gardens and overlooking vineyards and olive groves, Villa Cicolina feels more like a small stately home than a traditional hotel. The 16th-century house has been tastefully renovated with many of the original frescoes restored. There’s a charming sitting room and just 11 bedrooms, each with its own unique character and style. Within the grounds, you’ll find the original private chapel and plenty of grassy areas shaded by olive trees. The highlight is the infinity pool, which drops away at the end of the lawn and offers spectacular views across the surrounding countryside. The hotel also has its own wine cellar within what has been identified as an ancient Etruscan tomb, as well as the remains of secret passageways, built so that the aristocratic owners could escape should the estate come under attack.
Sangiovese grapes, Chianti
Felsina vineyard tour Visit the renowned Felsina winery and enjoy a cellar tour followed by lunch and wine sampling in their estate tasting room. Previously part of farmland that belonged to the Grand Dukes of Tuscany, Felsina is now well known for its wine and olive oil production. A representative from the estate will take you on a 4x4 tour around the vineyards which span the border of the Chianti Classico region. The property produces an excellent Chianti Classico Reserva from their Sangiovese vines as well as a selection of regional Tuscan wines with the IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) designation. As part of the tour you’ll learn about the different grapes that make up each of the property’s wines, as well as visiting the historic wine cellars where you’ll be able to see the barrels of wine maturing.
Villa Cicolina, Montepulciano
www.audleytravel.com/italy • 01993 838960 • Northern Italy
33
Menaggio Lake Varenna Maggiore Tremezzo Bellagio Lake Como Milan
Verona
Northern Italy & the Lakes Showcasing the beauty of Verona and the Italian Lakes alongside the cosmopolitan buzz of the country’s fashion capital, Milan, this itinerary combines urban excitement and lakeside tranquillity. It is an ideal getaway for those looking to gain an insight into one of Italy’s less visited areas and offers a different perspective on the country from the standard art and history focused trips.
Vernazza in the Cinque Terre, near Porto Venere
Tailoring your trip The itineraries shown are designed to give you a flavour of what is possible, and are routes that work particularly well. We can use these as a basis to plan your trip or can design a completely different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests. Please call one of our Italy specialists to start planning your itinerary.
T 01993 838960
Getting around The main international airports in northern Italy are located near Venice, Milan and Bologna. We can arrange for a driver to meet you at the airport to take you to your hotel and once you are ready to continue your journey you can choose to take a train between the major cities or have a driver look after your travel arrangements. While many of the roads in northern Italy are excellent, the traffic around the lakes in particular can be busy, so for stays in this area, we recommend getting around by ferry and private boat where possible.
Day 1
Arrive in Milan.
Day 2
Enjoy a guided walking tour of Milan followed by an afternoon at leisure.
Day 3
Explore Lake Maggiore by private boat visiting the beautiful palaces and gardens of the Borromean Islands.
Day 4
Travel to Lake Como and relax by the waterside or explore the charming, medieval city of Como.
Day 5
Take a guided tour of the lake visiting the town of Bellagio.
Day 6
Day at leisure to relax or visit the towns of Varenna, Menaggio or Tremezzo.
Day 7
Journey east to Verona and spend time exploring this romantic city.
Day 8
After a private walking tour, travel to the airport for your onward flight.
Architectural detail of the Duomo, Milan
When to go Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun
~
~
3
3
33 33
Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
3
3
33 33
3
3
33 The best time to travel. 3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.
~
Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year.
May to June and September to October are ideal times to visit with comfortable temperatures of about 24C (75F) and fewer crowds. However, expect the odd shower in the north from September onwards. Temperatures steadily drop to a cool 5C (41F) between November and February and many hotels in northern Italy are closed between November and March. However, it is still an enjoyable time to explore the cities and towns of the region. October to December is a good time to visit Piedmont for truffles and to visit wineries. Time difference: GMT+1
Prices
Diners near Piazza Santo Stefano, Bologna
34
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices for your trip to Italy on our website or alternatively, please call our specialists to discuss your plans.
Lake Maggiore
Suggested itineraries Turin Chiavari Monforte d’Alba Turin Santo Stefano Belbo
Parma Modena
Bologna
Sestri Levante Cinque Terre
Florence
Neive
Lucca
Chianti
Florence
Pisa
Genoa Portofino Cinque Terre
Piedmont & the Italian Riviera
Culinary highlights
Experience the highlights of the Piedmont region before enjoying some relaxing days on the Ligurian Riviera. Travel through endless vineyards dotted with hilltop towns in the Piedmont countryside and explore the elegant city of Turin. Visit Portofino and the Cinque Terre in Liguria and spend time hiking and relaxing. This trip offers a mix of culture, food and wine with a backdrop of dramatic landscapes.
Italy is justly known for its food and enjoying the regional specialities is a key component of getting to know the country’s culture. This trip allows you to experience the culinary highlights of the regions you visit and includes meeting food producers in Piedmont, a cooking class with a local chef in Florence, a truffle hunt in the Tuscan woodlands and a gastronomic tour of the famed food region, Emilia-Romagna as well as an insight into local dining and culture.
Day 1
Arrive in Turin and transfer to your centrally located hotel.
Day 1
Day 2
Explore Turin with a private guide and visit the Egyptian Museum.
Day 3
Travel to your hotel in Santo Stefano Belbo, visiting a local winery for Barolo tasting on the way.
Day 4
Take part in a private cooking class followed by a hike through vineyards in the Barbaresco wine region.
Day 5
Visit the medieval village of Neive and enjoy some wine tasting.
Day 6
You are free to spend your day exploring the village or nearby wineries.
Day 7
Day 8
Journey into Liguria and head for the coastal town of Portofino to enjoy the rest of the day at the beach or by your hotel pool. Hike above the villages of the Cinque Terre to take in the panoramic views.
Arrive in Turin. Head into the countryside to a local vineyard for some wine tasting before continuing to your hotel in Monforte d’Alba.
Day 2
Visit a local hazelnut producer, a cheesemaker and a winery in the Piedmont countryside.
Day 3
Travel to Bologna by train. This afternoon, wander the streets of the city on a private walking tour.
Day 4
Try some of Emilia-Romagna’s gastronomic highlights, taste delicious prosciutto in Parma and sample balsamic vinegar in Modena.
Florence, Tuscany & the Cinque Terre This trip combines the cultural highlights of Tuscany with the languid charm of Liguria’s pretty coastal villages, all with ample time to explore. It takes in Florence and its art collections and Tuscan terracotta-tiled medieval cities along the way. There are architectural wonders from Pisa’s Campo dei Miracoli to the brightly painted Cinque Terre towns that cling to the coast. Day 1
Arrive in Florence where you will be met and transferred to your hotel.
Day 2
Explore the streets of Florence by bicycle.
Day 3
Take a guided tour of the Accademia and Uffizi galleries with your guide.
Day 4
Travel to your Tuscan countryside hotel with a guided tour of the medieval town of Siena en route.
Day 5
Join a professional chef in a cooking lesson of traditional Italian dishes followed by a delicious lunch.
Day 6
Move on from Tuscany to Liguria with a guided tour of Pisa and its leaning tower en route.
Day 5
Head to Florence and have the rest of the day to explore the city.
Day 7
Day 6
Join a professional chef for a cooking lesson before eating what you have made.
Explore the pretty, pastel painted villages of the Cinque Terre with a private guide.
Day 8
Day 7
Learn about the art of truffle hunting followed by a wonderful tasting lunch.
Enjoy a coastal hike around the Cinque Terre with an expert walking guide.
Day 9
Visit Sestri Levante and Chiavari before heading south to the walled town of Lucca.
Day 10
Head to Pisa airport for your onward flight.
Day 9
View the Cinque Terre from the water on a boat trip along the coast.
Days 8-9 Travel into the Tuscan countryside where you can visit a winery and sample some Chianti.
Day 10
Head to Genoa airport for your onward flight.
Day 10
Continue to Rome and together with your private guide visit the mighty Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatine Hill.
Day 11
Wander the streets of Rome with your guide to taste some local food and then zip around the streets on a Vespa tour.
Day 12
Head to the airport for your onward flight.
Vineyards, Barolo
Siena
Rome
Campo dei Miracoli, Pisa
www.audleytravel.com/italy • 01993 838960 • Northern Italy
35
Old coffee shop in Turin, Piedmont
Regional cuisine Italy is a country that takes its food seriously. As everyday life gets more and more hectic, Italians still take great pleasure in sitting down and lingering over a meal. With a focus on fresh, seasonal ingredients and huge regional variety, Italian cuisine is rightly celebrated the world over. Food plays a huge role in regional identity and Italians take great pride in their local specialities. Everywhere you go you’ll find characteristic dishes made with culinary techniques and traditional recipes that have been lovingly honed over the ages.
Fresh Amalfi lemons, Campania
Piedmont This region is considered one of the gastronomical heavyweights of northern Italy. Well known for Barolo and Barbaresco wine, but also a number of small-scale producers as well as being the foundation stone of the Slow Food movement and the birthplace of the Eataly brand. Michelin-starred restaurants can be found throughout the region together with small trattorias offering local delicacies such as aromatic local truffles, raw meat dishes like the thinly sliced beef carpaccio or carne cruda, and tonato – a veal dish covered in tuna sauce and capers. The region’s capital, Turin, is home to a number of ancient coffee houses and chocolate shops which should not be missed. Truffle shavings on pasta, Piedmont
36
Emilia-Romagna Often considered the food capital of Italy, the citizens are proud of their regional produce and fine food. The capital, Bologna, is playfully nicknamed La Grassa, ‘the fat one’, and lends its name to the iconic ragù alla Bolognese. Alongside the more familiar ParmigianoReggiano cheese and balsamic vinegar di Modena, cured meat is a regional delicacy with Mortadella di Bologna IGP, salame felino and cotechino di Modena (a cooked pork sausage) all worth looking out for. You’ll also find a huge variety of regional breads and fresh egg pasta proudly displayed, most notably the Bolognese specialities tagliatelle and tortellini.
Balsamic vinegar maturing, Emilia-Romagna
Wheels of Parmigiano-Reggiano
Campania It’s impossible to visit the region’s capital Naples without trying some pizza. Known as the home of margherita and marinara pizza, many pizzerias only offer these options with the focus being on fresh ingredients over large menus. Looking beyond the pizza you can find an abundance of restaurants offering fresh seafood dishes such as spaghetti with clams or traditional desserts such as syrup-soaked babà al rum. Just beyond Naples you’ll find the Amalfi Coast where oranges and lemons are a staple ingredient in many dishes. Lemons are also used in the local after dinner alcoholic drink, limoncello.
Olive harvest in Puglia
Puglia The pleasant, mild winters and warm Mediterranean summers make Puglia one of Italy’s greatest agricultural regions. Fields of fruit and vegetables line the coastal road as well as endless olive groves. A staple in of the region is fresh seafood, and in Bari, the region’s capital, you’ll find fishermen selling raw seafood on paper plates covered in lemon along with Peroni, a beer produced in the city. Puglia is home to around 50 million olive trees which produce both extra virgin oil for finishing dishes and olive oils suitable for cooking with.
Cut of beef for bistecca alla Fiorentina, Florence
Tuscany Most Italians enjoy meat dishes when visiting Tuscany as the meat is considered the best in Italy. Juicy bistecca alla Fiorentina (Florentine steak) can be found in most restaurants and is enjoyed washed down with a glass of Tuscan wine such as Chianti. Wild boar and hearty soups also reign throughout the region. Here you can find an abundance of great cooking schools which offer a chance to learn more about Tuscan cuisine. Wood-fired pizza, Naples
www.audleytravel.com/italy • 01993 838960 • Regional cuisine
37
Southern Italy T
he dramatic beauty, fertile soil and rich seas of this coastline in southern Italy has long made it a prosperous and attractive region. The Greeks, Romans, Byzantines and countless others settled here leaving behind them a wealth of cultural and historic treasures. Scattered with UNESCO World Heritage Sites and blessed with dramatic coastal scenery, it is an area that rewards visitors with numerous treasures. In Campania you can discover the bustling streets of Naples, the Roman ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum, and the picturesque villages of the Amalfi Coast. Puglia’s characterful villages dot countryside blanketed with olive groves or cluster around the region’s many sandy beaches, while in Basilicata you can explore the intriguing UNESCO-protected cave town of Matera. The rich fertile soil of southern Italy makes it particularly good for agriculture and the food here is some of the finest in the country. Long, lazy meals and good conversation are at the heart of southern Italian culture, making this a place to relax and eat well.
I I
Audley in southern Italy I
In southern Italy the sights are of such cultural significance that a Iprivate guide can I I I I really bring their historical importance to I I I I light, and we can also arrange for you to see I I I the busier sights at quieter times. We offer I I I the opportunity to get to know the local people by visiting a private family home for a cooking class or joining a fishing crew at sea to catch your dinner. You can take a private boat trip around the coast, cycle around the Baroque town of Lecce, or hike along coastal paths with an expert historian and botanist who can reveal the story behind the sights you see. I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I I I I I I I I I I I I
I
I
I I
I
I I I
I
I
I I I I I
I
Polignano a Mare
I
7
ITALY
Alberobello Matera 6
Amalfi 5 Positano
4
I
I
I
Ravello
I I I I I
I I I
I
Capri
2 Pompeii
I
I
I
Sorrento
Bari
PUGLIA
CAMPANIA Vesuvius
Adriatic Sea I I I
I
I
1
Fasano Ostuni Brindisi
BASILICATA
Lecce Galatina
Tyrrhenian Sea
Otranto
0
50 miles
0
80 kilometres
Mediterranean Sea
1 Pizza in Naples Recognised as the home of pizza, no visit would be complete without sampling this local speciality. See page 45 2 Pompeii One of the world’s most important archaeological sites, Pompeii is a city frozen in time. See page 44
Trulli houses in Alberobello, Puglia
3 Capri
Explore the most beautiful island in the Bay of Naples by private boat. See page 42
I
I
4 Positano Located on a cliff edge, this multi-hued town is one of the coast’s most romantic locations. See page 40
Traditional pizza, Naples
I
I
I
Naples
3
I
I
I
Accommodation Southern Italy offers a wide range of highly characterful accommodation options from hotels located in caves to 17th-century monasteries that retain their historic charm, as well as providing every modern convenience. Along the Amalfi Coast you will find wonderful boutique hotels perched on clifftops with balconies and terraces offering exquisite sea views, and in Puglia you can stay in traditional masserie with private beaches and golf courses. Some of the properties in this region are built on the foundations of Roman villas and their history and heritage are a very strong part of their character. Across Italy, style is incredibly important and there are numerous glamorous hotels oozing chic sophistication to choose from. Our specialists have visited and inspected all the hotels we offer and will happily recommend the ideal properties to suit your tastes and budget.
ROME
I
I
I
I
I I I I
5 Path of the Gods
This dramatic trail offers spectacular scenery and panoramic views of the coastline. See page 41
7 Trulli houses
Fairy tale clusters of conicalroofed trulli are a feature of villages around Alberobello and the Valle d’Itria. See page 47
6 Matera
The little-visited cave town of Matera is fascinating to meander through. See page 49
www.audleytravel.com/italy • 01993 838960 • Southern Italy
39
Positano, Amalfi Coast
Amalfi Coast
Positano
One of the most celebrated stretches of seafront in Europe, the Amalfi Coast is an assortment of precipitous cliffs, terraced vineyards and picturesque towns that cascade down to the turquoise sea. Protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its outstanding Mediterranean landscape and exceptional cultural significance, the Amalfi Coast offers unrivalled scenery as well as art of international importance. The region can be explored along the dramatic coastal road between Amalfi and Positano or by boat along the scenic coastline.
Standing almost upright on a cliff edge, this town is one of the coast’s most romantic locations. A patchwork of small houses plunge down the steep hillside and through narrow winding streets with numerous flights of steps. The town can only be explored on foot and as you walk past vividly-painted houses, shopfronts, small boutiques and terraced restaurants, you’ll be greeted by glimpses of the yachts and fishing boats moored below. Unlike many of the other towns along the Amalfi Coast, Positano still retains a real air of exclusivity, alongside some of the coastline’s most impressive views.
Hotel Palazzo Murat, Positano
Hotel Palazzo Murat, Positano The 18th-century Hotel Palazzo Murat, in central Positano, radiates a classic Mediterranean romanticism. Originally a private villa, this hotel is steeped in history and retains its original charm with antique doors and furniture, classical artwork, stone staircases and tranquil passageways. Each of the 32 elegantly furnished rooms has views of either the sea, the gardens or the town and church. Creeping bougainvillea wraps around the balconies and fragrant jasmine and lemon trees surround the garden and swimming pool. Breakfast is served in the picturesque central courtyard while the traditional restaurant serves a menu of fresh homegrown ingredients. Terraced vineyard, Amalfi Coast
40
Grape harvest, near Positano
Praiano, near Positano
Dining with a view, Positano
Gardens of Villa Rufolo, Ravello
Ravello
Casa Angelina, Praiano Minimalist in style and exceptionally chic, Casa Angelina is a serene boutique property. Entering the hotel for the first time is like walking into a modern art gallery; the signature white walls and crisp modern design bring the sea views into focus. The beauty of this hotel lies in the level of care and attention given to its design and service. In the 39 rooms and suites, comfort and relaxation are key. Only the highest quality linens, sleekest modern furniture and lighting are used. Every room has either a private balcony, French windows or terrace, with views of the sea and coast. The hotel has both indoor and outdoor swimming pools and being adult-focussed, allowing only children over the age of 12, it’s ideal for a special getaway.
Casa Angelina, Praiano
Hand-painted pottery, Ravello
Path of the Gods Escape the busy Amalfi Coast and hike along the iconic Path of the Gods, one of the most charming walking routes in Italy. Located in the mountains high above Positano, the route hugs the cliffside and the trail feels suspended above the sea. Your efforts are rewarded with spectacular scenery and panoramic views of the coastline below. On a clear day you can see all the way to Capri. The route takes you past dramatic limestone mountains, vibrant wildflowers and terraced hillsides latticed with tiny vegetable patches, ancient vineyards, lemon groves and perilously perched houses that seem almost inaccessible.
This refined village retreat, located high in the mountains above Amalfi, has long been popular with authors, celebrities and composers, including Wagner, Graham Greene and Virginia Woolf. D.H. Lawrence wrote part of Lady Chatterley’s Lover here and the Wagner connection is celebrated with an open-air opera festival every summer. Situated at the end of a winding, cliff-hugging road, Ravello is a peaceful village and although it is now almost entirely devoted to tourism, when you step away from the main piazza its enchanting streets, grand villas, beautiful views and gardens offer great rewards.
Views from Villa Cimbrone, Ravello
www.audleytravel.com/italy • 01993 838960 • Southern Italy
41
Faraglioni rocks, Capri
Private boat tours & grottos
Marina Grande, Capri
Capri
Capri’s magnificent scenery is best revealed by boat. Sailing between the jagged Faraglioni rocks, skirting rugged cliffs to hidden coves and stopping in clear waters for a refreshing swim reveals the region’s beauty and character in a way that’s impossible on land. From the water it is also easy to discover the many vibrant grottos carved into the cliffs of Capri. While most visitors flock to see the Blue Grotto, we recommend exploring the less crowded Red, Green and White grottos instead. Sunlight pours in through unseen cavities lighting up the seawater in the caves, making them appear luminous. Discovering the many picturesque coastal towns by boat is also a great way to avoid the busy, narrow coastal roads, leaving more time to explore.
A near mythical place that has attracted emperors, artists, poets and revolutionaries for centuries, the island of Capri is a jewel in the Bay of Naples. Brightly painted towns with grand mansions tumble down hillsides, azure seas lap secluded coves, and an array of chic hotels, designer boutiques and bustling sunlit piazzas make ideal spots for people-watching some of the island’s stylish visitors. Although extremely busy in July and August, venture beyond the main attractions and you’ll discover winding alleyways, Roman ruins and hidden charm. Inside the Green Grotto, Capri
42
Capri Tiberio Palace
Capri Tiberio Palace Playful yet chic, the Capri Tiberio Palace pays homage to a jet-setting age when airline memorabilia, fashions from far-flung destinations and globetrotting lifestyles were revered as the height of sophistication. The artfully staged interior makes it feel more like a designer’s house than a hotel, with vintage trunks, antique globes, Panama hats and flying goggles carefully placed between stylish furniture and modern art. The theme blends tastefully with the classic Capri architecture of the building and the 56 rooms feature marble bathrooms, beautifully tiled floors and large balconies. The superb restaurant and facilities, including a heated swimming pool, are matched by impeccable service, so you can opt to stay in and indulge or head out and explore the heart of Capri town a few minutes’ walk away.
Capri town at dusk
Lemon grove, Sorrento
Chapel in Sorrento’s Duomo
Clifftop buildings, Sorrento
Sorrento
Bellevue Syrene 1820, Sorrento
Tumbling down a cliffside in a palette of bright hues, Sorrento is a popular and long-standing resort town with a charming historic heart, atmospheric ruins and a bustling port. The town looks out over the Bay of Naples and is a labyrinth of little streets flanked by numerous churches, quaint trattorias and beautifully restored 19 th-century townhouses and palaces. Sorrento is known for its high quality lace and marquetry, as well as its delicious Sorrentine lemons. It’s also a very convenient coastal base, and from here it’s easy to explore the local area.
An outstanding coastal property in the heart of Sorrento, this historic hotel built in 1820 is subtly elegant, classically Italian and small enough to feel like a welcoming noble home. As one of the oldest hotels in Sorrento, the Bellevue Syrene 1820 is a local institution and boasts spectacular views of the coastline from its terraces, where there is also a small but inviting swimming pool. Alternatively, for sunbathing away from the crowds, head to the hotel’s own private jetty on the seafront. All 50 rooms and suites offer magnificent views of the sea. The interiors are refreshingly modern with chic furnishings and expertly chosen antiques and artwork.
Grand Hotel la Favorita, Sorrento
Bellevue Syrene 1820, Sorrento
A historic building in the ancient heart of Sorrento, the stylish Grand Hotel la Favorita strikes a balance between maintaining the old and championing the new. The hotel’s 85 rooms are bright and spacious with traditional tiled floors and crisp blue and white decor. The rooftop terrace, complete with a swimming pool, is a great spot for an evening aperitivo under the palm trees. The views take in the Bay of Naples and Mount Vesuvius and more than make up for the lack of sea views from the rooms, many of which overlook the delightful hotel gardens filled with citrus trees and fragrant jasmine.
Grand Hotel la Favorita, Sorrento
Catch your own dinner For a truly unforgettable experience, head out from Sorrento on a local fishing boat to catch your own dinner. As you sail along the stunning coast, you have the opportunity to assist the fishermen in casting their large nets and later hauling them back up to inspect and admire your catch. You will then sail back to Marina Grande where the restaurant chef will prepare the fish you caught for dinner and your hard work will be rewarded with a delicious meal accompanied by a glass of wine and fantastic sea views.
www.audleytravel.com/italy • 01993 838960 • Southern Italy
43
Pompeii with Mount Vesuvius beyond
Pompeii & Herculaneum and is considered one of the world’s most important archaeological areas for studying ancient Roman life. The sheer size of the city and the detail of daily life that can be seen here is astonishing, with the forum, an ancient arena, domed baths and gladiator barracks as well as numerous stunning frescoes.
Interior of Villa dei Misteri, Pompeii
Pompeii Arguably one of the most well-known Roman ruins in Italy, Pompeii was buried under a thick layer of volcanic ash and pumice after the catastrophic eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD. The ash hardened quickly and sealed the once prosperous port city from air and moisture which led to the exceptional preservation of the town and its unfortunate inhabitants. Today, it is a vast open-air museum and UNESCO World Heritage Site
Remains of Herculaneum
44
Herculaneum Smaller than Pompeii, and less visited, Herculaneum is, in fact, far better preserved. Although both towns were destroyed by the same eruption in 79 AD, Herculaneum did not sustain the same immediate damage from the pyroclastic flows of ash, pumice and rock. However, over time this volcanic debris hardened, perfectly conserving the houses, shops, villas and frescoes beneath. What is really extraordinary here is the level of detail that remains. Unlike Pompeii, many wooden structures and upper storeys of the houses survived and as you explore you’ll see
Pompeii artefacts, Naples
carbonised doors, beams, beds and shelves, price lists outside shops, and the paintings and mosaics that decorated the houses. The site at Herculaneum is also more compact and easier to get around which makes for an excellent visit. National Archaeological Museum, Naples To appreciate Pompeii and Herculaneum fully and for an insight into how their inhabitants lived, it is beneficial to visit the National Archaeological Museum in Naples. The museum has an outstanding collection of Greek and Roman exhibits and contains all of the most important finds from both Pompeii and Herculaneum, as well as the Farnese collection of antiquities from Lazio and Campania. Particular highlights include the ‘Cave Canem’ (Beware of the dog) mosaic originally found in the entrance hall at the Casa del Poeta Tragico (House of the Tragic Poet) in Pompeii. There is also a grand mosaic depiction of Alexander the Great’s Battle against Darius III of Persia and the powerful marble statue of ‘Farnese Hercules’ which towers over the sculptures nearby.
Pizzaiolo, Naples
Street life, Naples
The ‘Veiled Christ’ in Cappella Sansevero, Naples
Piazza del Plebiscito, Naples
Naples
Cappella Sansevero
Located between two volcanic regions, Naples is Italy’s third largest city and offers a wealth of historic treasures as well as an authentic snapshot of southern Italian culture. The city may have a rather disorderly exterior but scratch beneath the surface and you’ll discover an intriguing heart, full of genuine charm. Naples’ old town rivals those of Rome or Florence with grand squares, monumental Baroque churches and prestigious museums. Its food is some of the most diverse in Italy and notably, it is the place that brought us pizza. There’s a thriving arts scene, a beautiful waterfront and many lively restaurant and bar areas to explore.
Tucked away down a little street in the historic heart of Naples is this flamboyant 18 th-century chapel created by Raimondo di Sangro, a revered nobleman, writer, inventor and scientist of his time. The interior has numerous marble statues and vivid frescoes, the most impressive of which is the intricate ceiling depicting the ‘Glory of Paradise’. The chapel is also home to two of the most beautifully carved marble sculptures in Italy: the exquisite ‘Veiled Christ’, masterfully sculpted from a single piece of marble and ‘Modesty’, with its gossamer-like drapes.
Grand Hotel Oriente, Naples Chic, stylish and ideally located, Grand Hotel Oriente makes a perfect base for exploring Naples. The 131 rooms are bright and spacious with elegant, contemporary decor in muted tones. The service is impeccable and you’ll be right in the historic heart of the city, just a short walk from the main shopping street, Piazza del Plebiscito, the bustling waterfront and the main historic sights. However, it is the rooftop terrace which really sets this place apart. A sophisticated retreat from the vibrant streets below, it offers panoramic views of the coastline along the Bay of Naples with Mount Vesuvius in the distance.
Street art Naples is home to some excellent art galleries and museums. It is however, also known for its impressive street art, which appears on walls all over the city in a diverse array of styles and techniques. The most famous piece is Banksy’s ‘Madonna with a pistol’, but many other renowned local and international urban artists have created murals, stencils and inventive graffiti here. A street art walking tour introduces you to the finest works and gives a revealing insight into daily life as you wander through some of the lesser-visited areas of the city.
Grand Hotel Oriente, Naples
www.audleytravel.com/italy • 01993 838960 • Southern Italy
45
Trulli near Locorotondo, Valle d’Itria
Bari The region’s capital Bari is often seen as a big industrial port city but scratch beneath the surface and you’ll find charming historical streets filled with women making fresh oricchetti pasta, grand churches and pretty fishing boats lining the port. The Barese are known for being friendly, jovial people, who don’t take life too seriously. The proximity to the sea also plays a big part in the city. As well as the huge commercial port there is a small port filled with fishing boats where local fishermen sell their catch of the day. Castel del Monte Olive harvest, Puglia
Castel del Monte
Puglia
Located around an hour from Bari is the impressive Castel del Monte. The castle is perched on a hillside surrounded by olive groves and vineyards. The building dates back to the 13th century, it is octagonal in shape and with a theme of eight throughout, it has eight rooms on each floor which form an octagon. The original purpose of the castle is unknown, it doesn’t seem to have been used for defensive purposes so it’s considered that it was most likely a private residence. It was constructed by the Roman Emperor Frederick II and was used to host his daughter’s wedding. The castle is UNESCOprotected due to its unusual octagonal layout.
Nestled in the heel of Italy, Puglia has influence from its close proximity to Greece, with the island of Corfu being just a two and a half hour ferry ride from Otranto. The region receives fewer visitors than others and agriculture remains the main source of employment here. The cities and towns in Puglia vary greatly, from the gritty port town of Bari to the Baroque town of Lecce to the tiny villages that dot the Itria Valley. Many of the hotels found here are known as masseria which are working or former farmhouses, often surrounded by farmland and olive groves. Fishing boats, Bari
46
Bari
Church of Saint Antonio, Fasano
Flower-filled balconies, Locorotondo
Street in Cisternino
Masseria Montenapoleone, Pezze di Greco in Fasano
Beach, near Fasano
Fasano Fasano’s historic core with its maze of lanes, small piazzas, stairways and arches, dates back to ancient times. Its casual atmosphere, authentic air and small port flanked by golden beaches offer a picturesque setting for some of Puglia’s top hotels. The town is located between the hills and the sea, in a landscape of olive groves and fields full to the brim with fruits and vegetables. Due to its flat nature, Fasano is a great place to enjoy a walk or rent a bicycle to explore the area. Not too far from Fasano you can find the Valle d’Itria, an area dotted with ancient trulli and characteristic Puglian villages such as Cisternino and Locorotondo, as well as the more popular towns of Alberobello and Ostuni.
The warm, welcoming feel of the Masseria Montenapoleone is a testament to the fact that the property is still family owned and run. Antique cars, copper pots, hammocks and old sewing machines among other antiques, are displayed throughout the property, lending a characterful but tasteful whimsy to each of the rooms and public areas. Each of the 20 rooms is unique, but all rooms combine traditional antiques with modern luxury. A focus on organic production and seasonal ingredients is a priority, and there’s even a stocked communal kitchen where guests are welcome to prepare their own snacks. You can also enjoy a number of facilities and activities on site such as the swimming pool and olive oil and wine tastings throughout the week.
Trulli houses Driving through Puglia’s Valle d’Itria, you pass whitewashed dwellings capped by conical stone roofs. These cone-shaped buildings, known as trulli, are Puglia’s signature construction and were originally built using local limestone and no cement. The government of the area during the 17th century taxed all houses, but, as trulli contained no cement, residents were able to demolish them when the taxman was in the area and rebuild them when he left. Eventually, a law was imposed that all trulli had to include cement, shaping how trulli look today. The highest concentration of trulli can be found in Alberobello, but you can also visit nearby villages to see them in more peaceful surroundings.
Masseria Montenapoleone, Pezze di Greco in Fasano
www.audleytravel.com/italy • 01993 838960 • Southern Italy
47
Basilica of Santa Caterina d’Alessandria, Galatina
Lecce
Otranto & Galatina
Sometimes referred to as ‘the Florence of the South’, Lecce is best known for its exuberant Baroque architecture. It’s far quieter and less crowded than its namesake, however. A relaxed university city with a glut of flamboyant buildings, its panache owes as much to the properties of the local limestone as to 17th-century fashions. The historic area of the city is easily explored on foot and is a maze of streets and alleyways filled with examples of Baroque architecture, churches and ancient sites. The expansive main square, Piazza del Duomo, is surrounded by imposing ornamented buildings, including Lecce Cathedral. The town’s basilica, Basilica di Santa Croce, and a Roman theatre can be found within the historic area. One of the best ways to enjoy Lecce is to simply get lost in the little streets and alleyways lined with ornate balconies.
Winding whitewashed lanes form the medieval quarter of the seaside town of Otranto. Its main attraction is the cathedral, which was consecrated in 1088 but displays elements of Byzantine, early Christian and Romanesque design, differing from Puglia’s later Baroque churches. Well-preserved Byzantine, medieval and 16th-century frescoes line the walls but the highlight is the vivid, 12th-century floor mosaic that covers the entire nave, sanctuary and apse. It depicts pagan and Christian scenes, biblical characters and a tree of life. In Galatina the Basilica of Santa Caterina d’Alessandria is quite unassuming from the outside, but inside you will find some of the best preserved frescoes in Italy, including depictions of the apocalypse and Adam and Eve. They were painted during the 14th century by Puglian artists in the style of Giotto.
La Fiermontina, Lecce
48
Roman theatre, Lecce
La Fiermontina, Lecce A ten minute stroll from the middle of Lecce in a quiet area of the city, La Fiermontina is a modern and relaxing boutique property. It has just 15 rooms yet plenty of space both indoors and outdoors. The hotel’s owner renovated the 17th-century building that houses the accommodation in homage to his grandmother who was part of Paris’ art scene in the 1930s. Rooms feature classic contemporary decor in neutral hues. A spacious garden area surrounds the hotel with manicured lawns, neat rows of olive trees and even a small swimming pool – a rarity for a hotel in Lecce. The restaurant serves a more sophisticated take on traditional local dishes.
View over Otranto
Baroque architecture on Piazza del Duomo, Lecce
Fisherman, Otranto
Matera
Hike to the cave churches
Piazza Vittorio Veneto, Matera
Matera
Exploring the Murgia Plateau with a guide turns what looks to be an uninhabitable rocky cliffside facing the Sassi di Matera into a fascinating illustration of how the city looked in the past. The cliff is dotted with caves, the oldest of which date back to the early Bronze Age and includes a large underground tomb chamber. There are also cave churches with 11th-century frescoes to discover. Your guide will explain how and why people lived here and lead you to the best viewpoints for sweeping vistas of Matera and its complex labyrinth of caves and laneways.
One of Italy’s most unusual cities, Matera is also its oldest. People began to carve homes out of the soft volcanic rock of a steep ravine as early as 7000 BC. The city developed further in the 18 th century as it grew wealthier, but roughly half the population continued to live in cave dwellings, known as sassi, until the 1950s. However, poverty and disease were rife due to overcrowding and a lack of sanitation and the local government were compelled to relocate families into new homes. The sassi remained uninhabitable until the 1980’s, but now they have been rejuvenated and house hotels, bars and restaurants. The ancient part of the city, the Sassi di Matera, and the caves and churches on the Murghia Plateau are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Sextantio le Grotte della Civita, Matera
Sextantio le Grotte della Civita, Matera The caves that have been transformed into Sextantio le Grotte della Civita are part of the ancient Sassi di Matera. The designers have masterfully retained the historic atmosphere of the cave dwellings through the preservation of the rocky structures and careful decoration. Soft candlelight and antique dark wood furnishings feature in the 18 rooms and suites. Breakfast each morning is a fresh spread of local meats, cheeses, fruits and pastries. In the evening the breakfast room turns into a bar where you can enjoy an aperitivo before dinner. Santa Lucia alle Malve cave church, Matera
www.audleytravel.com/italy • 01993 838960 • Southern Italy
49
Suggested itineraries Tailoring your trip The itineraries shown are designed to give you a flavour of what is possible, and are routes that work particularly well. We can use these as a basis to plan your trip or can design a completely different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests. Please call one of our Italy specialists to start planning your itinerary.
Naples Herculaneum Mount Vesuvius
When to go ~
3
33 33
Galatina
Positano
Southern Italy & the Amalfi Coast Experience the dramatic beauty of the Amalfi Coast on this wonderful itinerary that also takes in some of the highlights of southern Italy. Perfect for those who love the outdoors, it also offers world-class rest and relaxation in a truly striking setting. There’s plenty of time to explore as well as soak up the region’s distinct culture through some unique and memorable experiences. Day 1
Day 2 Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
3
3
33 33
3
3
Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year.
Southern Italy is at its best in May, June, September and October when you’ll get long days and pleasant temperatures, avoiding the heat and the crowds of the peak summer season. In July and August the roads get particularly busy, the hotels are at their most expensive and the number of visitors can make it difficult to get any sense of the region’s real character. Between November and April many hotels and restaurants close as weather is unpredictable. Naples and Sorrento are charming in the month of December in the run up to Christmas.
Puglia & Matera explored This tour of the heel of Italy visits some of its most well-known towns and shows you its hidden gems. Discover the trulli houses and cave homes unique to this region and stay in a cave hotel in Matera and a working farmhouse in Fasano. The area offers unspoiled, sandy beaches and this itinerary allows some time to relax and enjoy them during your stay.
Arrive in Naples and enjoy a short walking tour sampling street food as you go.
Arrive in Bari and head to your hotel in Matera.
Day 2
Guided hike up Mount Vesuvius followed by lunch at a local winery before travelling to Sorrento.
Explore Matera’s cave houses and churches with your guide before a tasting lunch of local produce.
Day 3
Head to Fasano and enjoy the afternoon relaxing.
From Sorrento head out to explore the remarkable archaeological sites of Pompeii and Herculaneum.
Day 4
Depart Sorrento by private boat and follow the coast to the beautiful island of Capri.
Day 5
Guided hike along the spectacular coastline of Capri before joining a cooking class at a family home.
Day 6
Enjoy a leisurely morning on Capri before continuing on to Positano.
Day 7
Spend the day exploring the towns along the Amalfi Coast with a private guide.
Day 8
Return to Naples in time for your onward flight.
Time difference: GMT+1
Days 4-5 While staying in Fasano, discover the old heart of Bari with your private guide. The following day, visit the enchanting trulli of Alberobello and the seaside town of Polignano a Mare nearby. Day 6
Journey south to Lecce and visit the white town of Ostuni on the way.
Day 7
Explore the Baroque streets of Lecce by bicycle followed by some local olive oil and wine tasting.
Day 8
Head further south to the seaside town of Otranto and relax on the town beach.
Day 9
Visit Otranto and Galatina on a guided walking tour.
Day 10
Transfer to the airport for your onward flight.
Prices We offer trips to cater for a wide range of budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices for your trip to Italy on our website, alternatively please call our specialists to discuss your plans.
Fresh lemons and dried chillies, Sorrento
50
Otranto
Day 1
Day 3
33 The best time to travel. 3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.
~
Ostuni
Capri
Southern Italy’s glorious landscape means that every journey is a scenic one and it’s worth taking your time between destinations so that you can stop en route and simply soak up the views. In this region we recommend a private driver and guide to take you around, though in July and August the roads can get particularly busy. Around Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast it’s well worth considering private boat trips as a relaxing alternative. It is also worth factoring in some time to get out on foot, especially on the rewarding hikes along the Amalfi Coast, or by bicycle in Puglia, where many of the hotels are near paths which criss-cross olive groves.
~
Alberobello
Lecce Sorrento
Getting around
~
Polignano a Mare Fasano
Matera
T 01993 838960
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun
Bari
Pompeii
Polignano a Mare, near Fasano
Useful information
Side street restaurants, Rome
Canal-side buildings, Venice
Flights
Photography in this brochure
Financial security
We use a range of airlines for trips to Italy including British, Irish and Italian carriers, such as British Airways and Alitalia. On certain routes we offer flights with low cost carriers, such as Easyjet and Ryanair; both offer an extensive UK departure network and Ryanair have a strong domestic route network within Italy. The traditional airlines, such as British Airways and Alitalia, tend to focus their operations on London. The majority of flights from the UK are direct with no connections necessary. We will always include checked baggage with your flights, unless otherwise requested.
We would like to thank the following photographers and organisations for the images used in this brochure:
We hold an Air Travel Organiser’s Licence (ATOL) issued by the Civil Aviation Authority (ATOL number 4817). Some of the flights and flight-inclusive holidays in this brochure are financially protected by the ATOL scheme. But ATOL protection does not apply to all holiday and travel services listed in this brochure. Please ask us to confirm what protection may apply to your booking. If you do not receive an ATOL Certificate then the booking will not be ATOL protected. If you do receive an ATOL Certificate but all the parts of your trip are not listed on it, those parts will not be ATOL protected.
AITO Membership Audley is a member of the Association of Independent Tour Operators. The association represents Britain’s leading independent tour operators and encourages high standards of quality and service. Audley abides by the Association’s Code of Conduct and adheres to the AITO Quality Charter which can be viewed on www.aito.com 5013
Alamy, Audley staff, clients and suppliers, AWL images, iStockphoto, Robert Harding, Superstock. All images used in this brochure were obtained in good faith by Audley Travel Group Limited and in the belief that all necessary consents and clearances were obtained for their use. However, if you believe that unauthorised use has been made of an image belonging to you please contact us on 01993 838 040.
Terms & Conditions and Travel Insurance Your booking is subject to the terms and conditions of Audley Travel which are detailed in the booking form. It is vital that you have adequate travel insurance and we are able to suggest a number of policies either for the duration of your trip or on an annual basis.
Those package arrangements which are not protected by our ATOL are covered by ABTOT, the Association of Bonded Travel Organisers Trust. Please see our booking conditions for information, or for more information about financial protection and the ATOL Certificate go to: www.atol.org.uk/ATOLCertificate.
Visit our offices
www.audleytravel.com
If you would like to discuss your travel arrangements in person we welcome personal visits, please call in advance to arrange an appointment with one or more of our country specialists. Our offices are at the New Mill, a 17th-century converted wool mill on the outskirts of Witney, ten miles west of Oxford, on the edge of the Cotswolds. We also have an office in west London, if this is more convenient for you.
Our website is packed with information, features and advice covering all our destinations across the globe. On the site you can browse by theme, interest or region as well as viewing additional accommodation options and itineraries that are not featured in this brochure. You can request all our brochures online or contact us via the website where there is the option to tell us about your plans so that we can start tailoring your itinerary.
www.audleytravel.com/visit-us
Useful information
51
New Mill, New Mill Lane, Witney, Oxfordshire OX29 9SX, United Kingdom Telephone: 01993 838960 • Website: www.audleytravel.com
5013
This brochure has been printed on paper from well managed forests, approved by the Forest Stewardship Council ®, using vegetable inks. Our printer holds ISO 14001 and FSC® environmental certifications. Should you wish to dispose of your brochure, we kindly request that you recycle it. The paper used in this brochure has also been carbon balanced.