Audley Turkey & North Africa the Middle East

Tu r k e y, N o r t h A f r i c a & the Middle East

Ta i lor - m a d e J o u r n e y s

for

the

D i s c e r n i n g T r av e l l e r

Dear Traveller This region of myriad ancient civilisations, staggering historical remains and beguiling cultures has long intrigued me. While history is the obvious lure to this region, I have also been struck by the incredible landscapes, the wonderful cuisine and the friendliness of the people.

Experiences are far more diverse than I expected: here you can camp under a star-strewn sky in Oman’s Empty Quarter; taste locally-grown wine while staying in a vineyard; hike in the magnificent High Atlas Mountains; learn how to make coffee Bedouin style; take a hot air balloon over Cappadocia’s striking scenery; get lost amongst the evocative aromas of a bazaar; and marvel at the immensity of the Pyramids.

It is not always an easy part of the world to travel in, so our specialists’ knowledge is invaluable.

They’re passionate about the region having either grown up, lived, worked, and in all cases, travelled extensively through these countries.

We look forward to planning your trip.

Craig Burkinshaw, Founder Director

Introducing Audley I

t was a trip around Asia in the early 1990s that ignited Craig Burkinshaw’s passion for travel.

On his return he was so keen to share his experiences that he founded Audley, or Asian Journeys as we were then called. We offered a new type of travel – individual journeys, designed to match the traveller’s interests, tastes and budget, created with an absolute commitment to quality and authenticity. Today this desire to share authentic travel experiences is undiminished and Audley is one of the UK’s most highly regarded specialist tour operators, providing tailor-made trips throughout Asia, Africa, the Middle East, Latin America, Australasia, North America, Antarctica and the Arctic.

Specialist knowledge

Tailor-made journeys

Speaking to one of our specialists is the best way to start planning your trip, whether you already know where you want to go or just have the seed of an idea. They can discuss your plans, offer advice and give you ideas and inspiration for your trip, before creating a detailed itinerary, which will be forwarded to you together with maps, accommodation descriptions and a price.

The same specialist will then refine the plans until you are completely satisfied and will be on hand to answer questions from your very first telephone call until you return from your trip.

The beauty of tailor-made travel is that every trip is unique. Whether you want to stay in simple or luxurious accommodation, have great guides on hand or explore under your own steam, travel for one week or five, we can create a trip to match your tastes and budget. We can also design trips for a special occasion, whether this is a spectacular honeymoon or milestone anniversary. Throughout the brochure you will find suggested itineraries and some of our favourite places to stay, but these are all just for inspiration as each trip is created uniquely for you and there are many more options available.

Our specialists have all travelled extensively throughout the region and in many cases lived there, so you can rely on their in-depth, first-hand knowledge. They regularly return to discover new hidden gems in each country, stay in the accommodation and meet our guides – many of whom are firm friends – as well as experience all the excursions and activities.

We believe this is the only way that we can genuinely offer you a tailor-made service and enable you to experience a side of these countries that others might miss.

Planning your trip

Financial security All travel arrangements in this brochure that include a flight from the UK are ATOL protected by the Civil Aviation Authority. Our ATOL number is 4817. Please see our booking conditions for more information. If your arrangements do not include any flights from the UK they are protected by a separate financial scheme, for further details please visit www.audleytravel.com/protect

El Jem, Tunisia

Contents Introduction 2-7 Turkey 8-23 Mythology

13

Ephesus

15

Morocco 24-41 Egypt 42-59 The Pyramids

46-47

Nile cruises

53

Introduction to Egyptian history

54-55

Jordan 60-73 The Kings’ Highway

64-65

Dana Nature Reserve & the RSCN

69

Israel 74-75 Oman 76-85 The Empty Quarter

84

Tunisia 86-90 Useful information 91

Introduction

3

Experience

Turkey, North Africa & the Middle East A

n outstanding legacy of ancient cities and temples, colossal monuments, beautiful mosques and churches and opulent palaces has been left to this diverse region, remnants of the troop of early empires which coveted these lands. This alone would make these countries endlessly fascinating to visit, but the region’s charms are not limited to its cultural relics. Incredible, otherworldly scenery abounds, while the people, as diverse as the landscapes, are united in their friendliness and hospitality. Delicious cuisine can be discovered in each country and opportunities to experience the countries’ cultures and natural beauty are numerous.

History & ancient sites Tunisian man

Temple of Hathor, Abu Simbel, Egypt

As the cradle of civilisation, the location of many of the earliest empires and dynasties, this part of the world contains a phenomenal quantity of ancient sites. The Ancient Egyptians established their long-standing civilisation in around 3100 BC, a venerable culture which flourished for thousands of years and begat numerous exceptional constructions such as the Pyramids and Abu Simbel. The Greeks and the Romans in their turn dominated the region, leaving behind their trademark colonnaded streets, temples and theatres across Turkey, Tunisia, Jordan and even Morocco. A visit to Turkey and Tunisia in particular will almost certainly bring you in contact with fantastically well-preserved ancient Roman ruined cities such as Dougga in Tunisia and Ephesus in Turkey, although there are hundreds of barely excavated sites which are equally impressive and less visited. Against this backdrop, the Jewish and Christian faiths came into being, followed in the 7th century AD by Islam, spreading outwards from the Arabian peninsula with the Arab Conquest.

Consequently, the countries within this region are home to some of the most important religious monuments in the world, including the earliest temples, churches and mosques.

Turkish coffee

Mount of Olives, Jerusalem, Israel

4

Tagine cooking, Marrakesh, Morocco

Food & drink Middle Eastern cuisine is one of the world’s finest, bringing subtle flavours together with exotic spices to create tantalising dishes, both vegetable and meat based. Meze, which means a selection of small dishes served before the main meal, is common throughout this region, where local ingredients are favoured. Typical dishes include flatbreads of various sorts, grilled meats in the form of kebabs, couscous, hummus, flavourful stews, white cheeses, salads and stuffed vegetables. In Morocco, Tunisia and Turkey in particular, plentiful vegetables are grown in the more fertile areas, some of which can yield two or more crops per year. Here too, olive groves, fruit orchards and vineyards are abundant, and the olive oil and wine produced is increasingly excellent. While rural areas are likely only to serve local delicacies, cities in each country have a range of international as well as local restaurants, with Istanbul leading the way with the excellence of its international cuisine. Throughout the region, either tea or coffee is a staple, drunk at any time of the day. In Turkey, heavily brewed coffee with a very thick consistency is a delicacy but it is black tea which is drunk most commonly, as it is in Israel. Moroccans have a taste for very sweet mint tea, in Egypt tea is brewed with mint but is not as sweet or delicate as that in Morocco, while in Tunisia, tea is served with mint, pine nuts and almonds. In Oman, Turkish coffee is most popular.

TURKEY ANKARA SYRIA

TUNIS RABAT

TUNISIA

LEBANON

Mediterranean Sea

ISRAEL TEL AVIV

MOROCCO

IRAQ IRAN

AMMAN JORDAN

CAIRO ALGERIA Ni

LIBYA

le

MUSCAT

EGYPT

SAUDI ARABIA

UAE

Re ea

dS

OMAN

Landscapes & scenery At the confluence of three continents, this region has a startling range of landscapes and includes everything from barren desert to snow-capped mountains, fertile valleys to striking rock formations, and some of the world’s best diving.

The diversity of the landscape is one of the highlights of visiting the region, and can be experienced by simply enjoying the views as you travel, by indulging in some hiking, relaxing on a boat trip, camping in the desert under the stars, exploring by 4x4 vehicle, or even taking a hot air balloon ride. Spending time amid such fantastic scenery is a great way to complement a history or a culture based trip.

Town amongst the fairy chimneys, Cappadocia, Turkey

Accommodation The variety of accommodation throughout Turkey, North Africa and the Middle East is vast, ranging from modern, international brands through to unique, characterful properties in cities as well as rural areas.

There are ultra-luxurious coastal properties in Oman, Egypt and Turkey, offering superb relaxation on the shores of the Arabian Sea, the Red Sea and the Mediterranean.

Diving in the Red Sea, Egypt

Eco-tourism is growing in Jordan, where you can find a few guesthouses which focus on benefitting the local environment and community. Along the Nile in Egypt you can find some classically grand hotels which have housed various historical figures throughout the ages. Within both Morocco and Turkey, characterful properties reign, with anything from colourful riads to boutique B&Bs, simple but stylish guesthouses and exquisitely decorated cave houses.

01993 838 400 • Introduction

5

Turkey, North Africa & the Middle East Cities Within this region are some of the most ancient cities in the world, whose historical importance and unique cultural identity have been carefully preserved even as international modernity is embraced.

Domes and minarets on the skyline, Cairo, Egypt

Interior of the Topkapi Palace, Istanbul, Turkey

Istanbul in Turkey, is a truly exciting city, replete with ancient buildings such as the magnificent Hagia Sophia and the Topkapi Palace, yet it is still very much a cosmopolitan, international leader.

Its narrow jumble of bazaar-filled alleys and attractive skyline of mosques and minarets are overlooked by the towering skyscrapers of the thriving business world in a delightful blend of old and new.

The charms of Morocco’s Marrakesh lie within its intoxicating warren of souqs, where visitors can immerse themselves fully in the enticing stalls, markets and food stands, or relax in a tranquil rooftop cafe overlooking the action. Cairo’s modern urban sprawl, housing the political centre of Egypt, disguises many historical gems: labyrinthine bazaars, a commanding citadel, Coptic churches and beautiful mosques, and through it all winds the Nile.

The historical and religious importance of Jerusalem is absolutely unparalleled. Sacred to Jews, Muslims and Christians alike and containing some of the world’s oldest and holiest structures, yet surrounding this ancient enclave the modern city is home to many exceptional theatres, restaurants and bars.

Food stall, Djemaa el Fna, Morocco

Worshipper at the Western Wall, Jerusalem, Israel

6

Friday livestock market, Nizwa, Oman

People & cultures Throughout these countries you’ll come across many different cultures and religions, as befitting such a varied region. However, one thing these countries have in common is the warmth and hospitality of their people. Whether you’re invited into a Berber home for a glass of Moroccan mint tea, welcomed into a family-run boutique hotel in Turkey or shown how to make coffee Bedouin style in Jordan, it is the people who will ultimately make your trip to the region special.

Religion is an important aspect of life for many of the people you will meet, so a degree of cultural sensitivity is required when visiting these countries. Islam is the predominant faith, but Christianity and Judaism are also present. The level of conservatism varies from country to country, and some places have had greater exposure to Western visitors than others so the degree of moderation you need to display does differ. Our specialists can advise you on this.

However, there are some general rules that you should always respect. Women should not wear clothing which is too tight or revealing, and in many places it is advisable to keep the shoulders and upper arms covered, as well as wearing shorts or skirts and dresses that reach at least to the knee. Where it is possible to visit a religious building, always fully cover the shoulders, arms and legs. In mosques you may also be required to take off your shoes and women will need to cover their heads. Ramadan, the month of fasting in Islam, is a time when things slow down a bit during the day and opening hours are curtailed, although it is perfectly possible to travel at this time.

Great Mosque, Kairouan, Tunisia

Responsible travel We are passionate about travel but also deeply aware of the responsibility we have to the people and places we visit. We believe that a visit from an Audley traveller should have a positive impact on the destination and, wherever possible, bring real benefits. We always endeavour to use locally-owned hotels, work with local guides and operators, and promote community and wildlife projects. Our Traveller’s Code offers tips and advice you can use to ensure your trip does not threaten the sustainability of the places you visit.

We carbon offset all our staff flights and you can choose to do the same, please speak to your specialist about this.

Lady at a water fountain, Chefchaouen, Morocco

The Spice Market, Istanbul, Turkey

We support a variety of social and environmental charities and projects around the world. The Turkey, North Africa and Middle East team has raised money to support the Assafou Foundation, an educational project which has founded rural schools in the High Atlas Mountains and provides much needed education for both genders and all generations.

The Treasury, Petra, Jordan

01993 838 400 • Introduction

7

Turkey G

eographically and historically spanning the gap between Europe and the Middle East, Turkey’s vast land mass contains a striking diversity of history, landscapes and experiences.

Occupied by different dynasties throughout the ages, from the Hittites to Alexander the Great’s Macedonia, the Roman Empire to the Ottomans; Turkey’s rich cultural legacy is evident in the sheer number of ancient cities and monuments spread throughout the land. Cultural treasures such as the glorious ruins of Ephesus and Pergamon abound, while mosques of exquisite beauty jostle for space with churches, vibrant bazaars and local teahouses. Turkey’s landscape serves as an equally remarkable backdrop to the country’s cultural inheritance. With an outstandingly beautiful coastline on the Mediterranean Sea, soaring mountains, deep forests, and an extraordinary landscape of bizarre formations and fairytale-esque cave villages in Cappadocia, the scenery matches its history for variety.

Whether you’ll be learning Greek mythology as you explore ancient temples, lazing on a sun-drenched Mediterranean beach, hiking through fairy chimneys or haggling in the Grand Bazaar, you will experience the friendly hospitality, splendid cuisine and laid-back atmosphere that infuses the country.

Audley in Turkey We can arrange culture-focused trips, longer overland explorations, coastal breaks or a mixture of all of these. In addition to visiting the most famous sites, we are able to offer more unique, local experiences such as wine tasting in a vineyard or a cookery lesson in a family home, to help you get under the skin of the country. We work with a selection of excellent private guides and drivers who accompany you on your journeys and excursions, and who give you the flexibility to try to avoid the worst of the crowds that are an inevitable part of visiting the more famous sites such as Ephesus.

Due to the country’s enormous size, we recommend travelling from place to place by both private car and driver and, for the larger distances, domestic flights.

While some overland journeys offer opportunities to travel through exceptional scenery and visit picturesque villages, others are best done by plane to maximise your time in each place.

Accommodation Turkey has an excellent selection of characterful accommodation, from guesthouses to cave hotels or stylish, modern properties. All are beautifully decorated; Turkish design is notably excellent and will be evident wherever you stay. We have chosen the best of these boutique properties and can recommend a range from simple and traditional through to luxurious, all with excellent standards of service. Istanbul and the Bodrum Peninsula in particular also have a good selection of international hotels which vary from simple through to opulent, and these tend to have a greater range of facilities.

BULGARIA

0

100 miles

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161 kilometres

Black Sea

GEORGIA

4 7 Istanbul

Gallipoli Peninsula

ARMENIA

Canakkale ANKARA

Pergamon Alacati Ephesus Pamukkale Sirince 3 5 Aphrodisias Bodrum Antalya GREECE

Kalkan

Tu Kas r qu oise C oast

1

TURKEY

IRAN

Cappadocia

Konya

6 IRAQ

Cirali

2

SYRIA

Mediterranean Sea CYPRUS LEBANON

1 Hot air ballooning

in Cappadocia Float above Cappadocia’s remarkable formations and watch the vibrant colours emerge as the sun rises.

See pages 20-21 2 Turquoise Coast

Azure seas and golden bays; the Turquoise Coast is a beautiful Mediterranean retreat.

See pages 16-17

3 Ephesus Be amazed by the scale and beauty of the ruins of this striking ancient city.

See page 15 4 The neighbourhoods

of Istanbul Explore this fascinating city as the locals see it and discover the highlights of its unique neighbourhoods.

See pages 10-11 5 Aphrodisias Enormous and largely unexcavated, these magnificent ruins sit amid the mountains, with its most intricate artefacts displayed in an excellent museum.

See page 18

6 Konya & the

whirling dervishes Turkey’s most conservative city is home to the spiritual order of the whirling dervishes; be mesmerised by their ceremony.

See page 19 7 People watching in

the Grand Bazaar Watch the hustle and bustle of the famous Grand Bazaar unfurl while sipping Turkish coffee or sampling homemade meatballs with the locals.

See page 10 Food & drink Turkish cuisine is superb, replete with fresh ingredients; its wine an excellent and growing industry; and its tea and coffee a national pastime.

Boats off the Turquoise Coast

www.audleytravel.com/turkey • 01993 838 460 • Turkey

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Hagia Sophia, Sultanahmet

Istanbul Istanbul: a city of spires and bazaars, of sumptuously beautiful mosques and palaces, of delectable cuisine, coffee houses and a palpable assortment of cultures. Its strategic position on the shores of the Bosphorus which connects the Sea of Marmara and the Black Sea, made it hotly sought after for centuries, and over the years Greeks, Persians, Romans and Ottomans have each invaded and made Istanbul their own.

It was first established as Byzantium in 657 BC

by Greek settlers, was renamed Constantinople in 330 AD in honour of the Roman emperor Constantine the Great, then became Istanbul under the Ottoman Empire from 1453, although it was not officially renamed until 1930.

Each empire left an indelible stamp on the city and today Istanbul has an unparalleled cultural legacy, evident in the sheer number of mosques, churches, monuments and palaces.

The city is also home to a thriving cafe culture amid its smaller, labyrinthine streets, and each of the numerous districts has its own distinct character. Among our favourite areas to explore are Sultanahmet, Karakoy and Galata.

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Sultanahmet

Architect Mimar Sinan Born in 1490, Mimar Sinan is considered Turkey’s greatest architect and his contributions to Istanbul, in particular, are astounding. The son of a stonemason, Sinan was trained as a military engineer, where he rose to the rank of Janissary commander.

Here he refined his style and talent in both engineering and architecture, constructing fortifications and military infrastructure.

At the age of 50, Sinan was appointed Royal Architect under Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent, a position which he held throughout the reigns of sultans Selim II and Murad III also. Sinan’s subsequent buildings, which number over 300 across the whole of Turkey, now dominate the skyline of Istanbul, the most famous of which are the Suleymaniye and Sehzade Mosques, both exceptional in beauty and design.

Istanbul’s Old City, Sultanahmet is home to the greatest concentration of significant mosques, palaces, churches and monuments in the city.

The area and its surrounds form the basis of Istanbul’s famously beautiful skyline, which encompasses the Topkapi Palace grounds, Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. The vibrant Grand Bazaar and Spice Market are also situated in this vicinity, as well as some of the city’s most attractive mosques and churches such as Suleymaniye Mosque and, nearby, the Chora (Kariye) Church Museum. Characterised by busy, bustling streets overflowing with restaurants and cafes, Sultanahmet is a must-visit area of Istanbul.

Levni Hotel, Istanbul One of the best-located hotels in the Old City, the Levni Hotel is within a five to ten minute walk from Topkapi Palace, Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, with a tram station just at the end of the road. Its 75 rooms are elegantly decorated with attractive artwork throughout, and guests can make use of the hotel’s spa, hammam, swimming pool and fitness centre during their stay. The hotel has a choice of restaurants but its central location means that any number of excellent eateries are within walking distance.

Levni Hotel, Istanbul

View of Karakoy, Istanbul

Interior of the Blue Mosque, Sultanahmet

Simit seller, Istanbul

Vault Karakoy, Istanbul

Karakoy

Istiklal Street, Istanbul

Istiklal Street & surrounds Leading from Galata to Taksim Square, Istiklal Street is a busy shopping street lined by a mix of designer stores, food stalls and art galleries.

This area is especially lively in the evenings, and the plentiful small streets which lead off from Istiklal are replete with bars and restaurants.

An old-fashioned, 19 th-century tram runs up and down the street while a short funicular railway, the Tunel, can take passengers up the steep incline from the Bosphorus. At the bottom of Istiklal Street is Galata, a fairly small district, whose steep streets are filled with cafes, jewellery boutiques and musical instrument shops. Galata Tower offers excellent views across the Golden Horn, a major inlet of the Bosphorus, to Sultanahmet. Close by lies the laid-back, bohemian area of Cukurcuma, which has an abundance of kitsch antique shops set within ancient houses, and whose streets are steep and winding, relaxed, and great to explore.

Vault Karakoy, Istanbul

A locals' district, Karakoy runs from the foot of Galata Bridge along the Bosphorus. In the summer its views are blocked by endless cruise ships nestled in the port, but it is an excellent place to visit for fresh fish meals or street food.

Karakoy also has a thriving coffee culture, with a maze-like area of narrow alleyways which overflow with quirky, independent coffee houses, boutiques and tiny galleries. The Kilic Ali Pasa mosque complex is situated just on the outskirts of the Karakoy area, and close by is the Istanbul Modern on the shores of the Bosphorus, which is highly recommended for those interested in modern art. In the 19 th century, Karakoy was the centre of Istanbul’s prosperous banking industry, and Bankalar Street is now a fascinating place to visit for the ancient vaults still present in some of its buildings, most notably the SALT Galata museum.

One of four hotels in the excellent Istanbul chain ‘The House Hotel’, Vault Karakoy is located in an ancient bank and still has a number of old-fashioned vaults, one of which is now the hotel’s wine cellar. The building has been restored but original features retained and embellished with touches of modern luxury throughout. Some of the 63 rooms are on the small side but are beautifully decorated with wooden floors and classic, high ceilings. Service is impeccable, and the hotel is perfectly located at the foot of the sweeping Camondo Stairs, which lead up into lively Galata.

Four Seasons Hotel, Istanbul at the Bosphorus The epitome of luxury, the Four Seasons is set within a 19 th-century Ottoman palace occupying an enormous stretch along the Bosphorus, with prime views across to the Asian side. Its beautiful grounds include two private piers, an outdoor swimming pool and cafe, as well as terraces for the hotel’s main restaurant and lounges. The attention to detail throughout the hotel is exceptional and the decor is exquisite. Each of the 195 rooms and suites is spacious, with excellent in-room facilities.

Four Seasons Hotel, Istanbul at the Bosphorus

www.audleytravel.com/turkey • 01993 838 460 • Turkey

11

Temple of Trajan, the acropolis at Pergamon

Canakkale

Gallipoli & the battlefields The name Gallipoli will forever be synonymous with the horrors that occurred here during WWI, during the Allied forces’ campaign to gain control of the Dardanelles. Following a failed naval attack, troops from Britain, France, Australia, New Zealand, Egypt and Malta were drafted in to clear the Gallipoli Peninsula and the Dardanelles so that the navy could progress through to Constantinople (Istanbul).

Landings began on April 25th 1915, and months of intense fighting in horrendous conditions ensued. Bad weather, the rugged terrain of the peninsula, unsuitable landing spots and the exceptional leadership of Lieutenant-Colonel Mustafa Kemal (who later became the first President of the Republic of Turkey), all combined to ensure an Allied defeat. Both sides suffered heavy losses and deaths are estimated to have reached 100,000.

Located in a key position on the narrowest point of the Dardanelles, the stretch of water which connects the Sea of Marmara with the Aegean Sea, Canakkale is a relatively small town which is mainly used as a stopover point to visit the Gallipoli Peninsula battlefield monuments on the opposite shore. Canakkale itself is pleasant and a couple of hours can be spent exploring the town, including its attractive waterfront promenade and enormous wooden Trojan horse sculpture; a remnant from the 2004 film Troy. Clustered around the main square and a five-storey Ottoman tower are numerous restaurants, while the striking Cimenlik Fortress, built by Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror during the 15th century, now contains a Military Museum. Further south of Canakkale lie the ruins of the famous city of Troy, which can be visited as part of a day trip.

Fishermen in the harbour, Canakkale

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The theatre and acropolis, Pergamon

Pergamon Once one of the richest and most powerful settlements in the Middle East, the beauty and cultural importance of Pergamon are still evident today in the impressive mountainside acropolis and the Asclepion, a fascinating ancient medical centre. In its heyday, Pergamon was a prominent cultural hub which briefly rose to the status of capital of the Roman Empire in Asia. Sadly, much of the structures excavated from the acropolis are now to be found in the Berlin Museum, but that which is left, including the marble-columned Temple of Trajan and a hillside theatre, is still a spectacular sight. The Asclepion is perhaps less grand in appearance but better preserved. It was once a renowned medical foundation, where one of the greatest early physicians studied, whose medical knowledge and research continued to influence doctors until well into the 16th century.

Mosaic depicting the kidnapping of Europa by Zeus

Mythology Throughout Turkey’s long history, belief systems have been altered several times.

Today, the country is secular but with a predominantly Muslim population, although there are also large numbers of Christians, Levantines and Jews. In ancient times, however, Turkey was subject to a large period of Hellenization which introduced Greek language and culture, followed by a long stretch of time as part of the Roman Empire. Both Greek and Roman mythology are therefore evident throughout Turkey’s numerous archaeological sites. Here are a few of the key figures with their Greek and Roman counterpart names shown.

Zeus/Jupiter Zeus was the son of Cronus, and is known as the father of gods and mankind alike. Cronus, scared that his children would supplant him as he in turn supplanted his father, swallowed any children born to his wife, Rhea. In a final attempt to out-wile Cronus and save her child, when Zeus was born Rhea gave him to a goat named Amalthea to be raised in a cave out of the sight of Cronus. Upon reaching adulthood, Zeus overthrew his father and gave him poison to make him vomit forth Zeus’ older siblings. Zeus then imprisoned Cronus deep underground.

Zeus’ powers include command over thunder and lightning. He is known for his frequent erotic adventures, and is the father of many gods and goddesses, as well as several mortal children.

Statue of Athena, Antalya Museum

There are several statues of Zeus to be found in the Istanbul Archaeological Museum, the Antalya Museum and the Museum of Anatolian Civilisations in Ankara.

Aphrodite/Venus Born from sea foam, Aphrodite came into being following the deposing of Uranus by Zeus’ father Cronus, who cut off Uranus’ genitals and threw them into the sea.

Aphrodite is generally accepted to be the most beautiful of the goddesses and symbolises beauty, love and sexuality. In Anatolia, however, Aphrodite also represented fertility, and it is not uncommon to find multi-breasted sculptures of the goddess to denote this. Among Aphrodite’s children is Eros, or Cupid in Roman mythology, whose arrows cause love to grow where they fall.

There is a large and beautiful temple dedicated to Aphrodite at Aphrodisias.

Athena/Minerva Athena, the goddess of wisdom, courage, justice and war strategy, was born from the head of Zeus fully armed, shouting a war cry into the sky. She is the child of Zeus and Metis, but upon her conception Zeus swallowed Metis, having heard that the child born of Metis would be even more powerful than himself. When Zeus became full of pain with a headache, he asked Hephaestus, the blacksmith god and husband to Aphrodite, to cleave his head with an axe. Upon doing so, Athena sprang forth. Athena became the favourite child of Zeus, who equipped her with his shield and flaming thunderbolt.

Places of importance within Turkey for Athena include Pergamon, and a statue taken from Perge can be found in the Antalya Museum.

Artemis/Diana The twin sister of Apollo and the daughter of Zeus and Leto, Artemis is the goddess of the moon and is also a huntress goddess.

In certain areas, she is also seen as a goddess of fertility and can be depicted as a multibreasted form. Artemis is also known for her anger: when the mortal Actaeon boasted that he was a better hunter than she, and spied upon Artemis and her nymphs while they were bathing naked, Artemis turned Actaeon into a stag as punishment. He was immediately devoured by her hounds.

There is a large temple dedicated to Artemis to be found at Ephesus.

www.audleytravel.com/turkey • 01993 838 460 • Turkey

13

Sirince village

Alacati

Sirince

Alacati, located on the Cesme Peninsula to the west of Izmir, is a small but charming town with a laid-back atmosphere and some excellent boutique accommodation. It is just a short drive or cycle ride to some good beaches on the coast, although due to the wind these are better for windsurfing – for which the area is popular – than sunbathing. Hidden inland, amid olive groves and chilli fields, is Cesme Vineyard, again accessible by either car or a bicycle, which can easily be hired from town. It is possible to take a tour of the vineyard or just relax on the outdoor terrace with a glass of the local wine and enjoy the beautiful surrounds. Alternatively, the narrow, cobbled streets and traditional stone buildings of Alacati which house vintage boutiques, antique shops, cafes and restaurants, provide an enjoyable base in which to relax, unwind and people watch.

Sirince is a beautiful village set in the forested hillside, and was originally settled in the 15th century by Greeks when Ephesus was abandoned. Its traditional Ottoman houses probably date from the 19 th century rather than the 15th, but are nevertheless very picturesque amid the winding lanes and overhanging vines.

Despite being fairly busy during the day, Sirince is quiet and sleepy in the mornings and evenings, and is a lovely place to relax. The area is known for its olive oil, fruit and wine production, and it is possible to visit a vineyard or olive oil factory, or go walking in the surrounding countryside.

Local market, Alacati

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Alavya, Alacati

Alavya, Alacati An exquisite property with beautiful touches throughout, the Alavya is located in the heart of Alacati and offers an excellent base to both explore and relax. There are 25 rooms in six traditional houses, set around a central garden courtyard and swimming pool, while the hotel’s excellent restaurant borders the main pedestrian street. Each room is spacious and highly attractive, with homemade treats left for guests to sample. Breakfast is a spread of delicious Turkish delicacies including yoghurt, fruit, honey, salads, breads and pastries.

Gullu Konaklari, Sirince

Gullu Konaklari, Sirince Located on the edge of the pretty Sirince village, the Gullu Konaklari is a haven for those wanting time to relax after exploring. Its 12 rooms are spread between an attractive mansion and a more traditional stone house, separated by a lovely wild olive grove garden with various seating options. The property has a small restaurant which serves breakfast and dinner, with ingredients coming from their own farm.

The Library of Celsus, Ephesus

Ephesus Perhaps the best-preserved, most complete classical city in the Mediterranean, Ephesus is a huge site with an enormous history. Dating back as far as 1000 BC, the city first came into prominence when it was inhabited by Hittites, survived through Greek settlement, through the Archaic, Classical and Hellenistic periods, before being invaded by the Romans in 88 BC. It then became a decidedly Roman city and was even made capital of the Roman Asia Minor in the 1st century, second in size and distinction only to Rome.

It was during this period that the city was at its most opulent, with several exquisite buildings including the famed Library of Celsus and the Temple of Artemis, which was the biggest in the world and one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. The large and grand theatre, which was initially used for dramatic performances, later became mainly used for gladiatorial combats and evidence of a huge gladiators’ graveyard has been uncovered in the city. Ephesus also had one of the most advanced aqueduct systems in the ancient world, which fed a number of water mills in the city, one of which was used for marble production.

In 263 AD the Goths from Germany destroyed the city. Although Emperor Constantine I rebuilt Ephesus during his reign, and constructed several public baths, the city began to decline in importance. Its deterioration was also due to the harbour gradually filling up with silt from the river, which meant that Ephesus could no longer be as successful commercially. This slow drying up of the river and harbour also created malarial swamps, decreasing the appeal of Ephesus as a place to live.

streets and the ruined structures. Even though 82% is yet to be excavated, walking through the site gives you an impression of the scale and importance of the city. Buildings are in varying states of repair: some are in excellent condition having been meticulously reconstructed. Others are less so, but your guide will be able to tell you each and every building’s purpose and origin, so that your imagination can fill in the physical spaces.

The sheer number of structures and ruins in Ephesus is astonishing; this is a great place to learn more about Greek and Roman mythology. Please be warned, however, that Ephesus is exceptionally busy throughout cruise season from March through to November. We do our best to help you avoid the busiest times of day but meeting crowds at such a spectacular site is inevitable.

Today, evidence of Ephesus as it was in its prime can still be seen in the layout of the Entrance to the Odeon, Ephesus

Relief of the winged goddess Nike, Ephesus

www.audleytravel.com/turkey • 01993 838 460 • Turkey

15

Bodrum harbour

Hilton Bodrum Turkbuku Resort & Spa, Bodrum

Hilton Bodrum Turkbuku Resort & Spa, Bodrum

Bodrum What we refer to as Bodrum is actually the Bodrum Peninsula, on which is located Bodrum town itself but also several smaller villages dotted around the coastline. Sparkling azure seas punctuated by small Greek and Turkish islands is the view from anywhere on the coast, while the interior is lush and forested, with numerous biking and walking trails criss-crossing the woodland. Bodrum town, although busy during the summer months, can be an enjoyable place to visit. It has an attractive harbour and waterfront promenade lined with restaurants, plenty of shops along its narrow lanes, as well as an imposing castle which you can explore. The Mediterranean is warm and pleasant to swim in, and looks particularly inviting from the craggy bays and inlets which characterise this part of the Turquoise Coast. However, most of the seaside hotels here have created their own beaches on which to relax and soak up the sun.

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Located just around the headland from Golturkbuku village, the Hilton has the whole bay to itself. The hotel’s extensive grounds spread right down to its own private beach, and contain four outdoor pools including separate ones for adults and children. Facilities are excellent, including six à la carte restaurants serving different cuisines. The spa centre includes two indoor pools and a gym, and water sports can be arranged direct from the beach area. Each of the 486 rooms is large and comfortable, with attractive modern art decorating the walls.

Kuum Hotel, Bodrum The Kuum Hotel offers restful luxury in beautiful surroundings. Unusually designed with smooth contours and stark concrete façades, each of the 61 rooms is spacious, with excellent in-room facilities, a sea view, and a balcony or terrace as standard. The hotel’s underground spa is fantastic, naturally lit through starlike windows in its domed ceiling, which pokes through into the garden above. Wooden decking lines the shore, with sun loungers or luxurious cabanas for guests to soak up the sun. An outdoor bar offers refreshments throughout the day, and the hotel’s seafront restaurant serves superb cuisine.

Palmalife Bodrum Resort & Spa, Bodrum

Kuum Hotel, Bodrum

Palmalife Bodrum Resort & Spa, Bodrum

With spectacular views and spacious grounds, the Palmalife offers a peaceful retreat. For a hotel occupying such a large space, it has surprisingly few rooms with just 40, clustered around a neat, grassy lawn. Most have sea views, which stretch towards an undeveloped headland opposite. The hotel’s highlight is its beach with sand imported from the Maldives: it is hidden from view almost until you reach it. There is also a separate decking area over the sea. With an outdoor swimming pool, a children’s mini pool, a fitness centre, outdoor tennis courts and a spa, there are facilities for all, and water sports can also be arranged.

Windmill near Bodrum

Pretty street, Kas

Boats in the bay, Cirali

Lycia Hotel, Kas

Lycia Hotel, Kas

Kalkan & Kas Both Kalkan and Kas are picturesque harbour towns on the aptly-named Turquoise Coast.

Despite having morphed from fishing villages into fairly upmarket tourist towns in the mid-20 th century, the towns are still characterful and enjoyable to explore. Both have varied and numerous dining options, and although neither town has a beach there are rocky bays or decking from which to swim. Kas is the more local of the two and is also the larger, extending out onto the adjacent Cukurbag Peninsula. The views from this expanse of coastline are fantastic, with endless sea stretching to the horizon, broken only by yachts and small, forested islands.

There is plenty to do around the Kalkan and Kas area, with an abundance of Lycian rock tombs, an ancient underwater city close by and a plethora of outdoor activities, including walking and cycling. Taking a boat trip around the local coastline and coves is highly recommended.

The Lycia is a delightful property, located a short distance out of Kas on the beautiful Cukurbag Peninsula. Surrounded by colourful bougainvillea and overlooking the Mediterranean, the hotel has an outdoor saltwater pool as well as a private decking area by the sea, accessed by a small path, where refreshments can be ordered and delivered from the hotel. Each of the 14 rooms is spacious, with simple but tasteful decor and a balcony with a sea view. The outdoor terrace houses the hotel’s restaurant and bar, and there is a plush, covered lounge area for escaping the sun.

Cirali Hidden in a forested valley at the foot of Mount Olympus lies the small, rustic village of Cirali, nestled in between the mountains and a long stretch of beach. Cirali itself comprises about three dusty roads amid the trees, lined by fruit stalls, ramshackle shops and cafes. There are a number of excellent boutique properties scattered throughout the beachside forest which provide a tranquil retreat, perfect for returning to after a day relaxing on the beach, walking in the mountains or exploring the coastline. South of Cirali is the ancient Lycian city of Olympos which dates back to the 2nd century BC, and nearby are the ‘eternal flames’ of Chimaera, produced by gas emissions from natural vents in

the rock face. Both sites are within walking distance, or alternatively you can hire bikes from Cirali. Endangered loggerhead turtles annually journey to Cirali to lay their eggs on the beach, and are protected by the local government.

Kimera Lounge, Cirali The expansive grounds of the Kimera Lounge are brimming with fruit trees and flowering shrubs, overlooked by the impressive Mount Olympus.

The 54 rooms are in villa style, each with its own wooden terrace and named after a different type of fruit which denotes its size. These are spread about the garden but most surround the large outdoor pool. Hidden amid the trees within the grounds can be found different seating areas in which to relax, or alternatively the hotel has a very good spa, hammam and children’s play area.

Kimera Lounge, Cirali

www.audleytravel.com/turkey • 01993 838 460 • Turkey

17

Limestone terraces, Pamukkale

Hierapolis

Colonnaded street, Hierapolis

Pamukkale A series of striking white terraced basins cascading down the hillside: these are the limestone terraces of Pamukkale, or ‘cotton castles’ as the name means in Turkish. The town is very small, in part because the hotels which were based here have all been moved and rebuilt further away, following a collaboration between the Turkish government and UNESCO to prevent overuse and pollution of the natural thermal waters which fill the terraces. The terraces have been created over time by hot springs and streams depositing carbonate minerals, and while sadly the springs no longer run through the terraces the local authorities fill certain sections at a time with water, to show what the area would have looked like in its prime. It is a beautiful sight, especially now that visitors are not allowed to wander freely amid the terraces and must stick to a designated path.

Just as the Pamukkale terraces are popular today, so they were in ancient times, and Hierapolis sprang up as a thermal spa settlement to cater for this demand in around 190 BC. Today, the ruins are some of the most interesting to explore, in part because of the mountainous backdrop, but also the fascinating and very well-preserved ancient necropolis (cemetery), housing many of the aged and ill visitors who came to Hierapolis to feel the benefits of the thermal waters. Hierapolis is also home to a large Roman theatre which overlooks the valley below.

The town flourished even through the influx of Christianity in the 4th century when various structures were converted for more Christian uses, until finally in the 7th century it was destroyed first by invading Persians and then by a large earthquake.

The stadium, Aphrodisias

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Gateway to the Temple of Aphrodite, Aphrodisias

Aphrodisias A vast site which is mostly unexcavated, Aphrodisias is nonetheless remarkable. Its ruins are to be found amid the natural landscape, springing up from greenery or half-buried in the dust, much as it would have been to the original team who discovered the city. This is undoubtedly part of the appeal of visiting Aphrodisias, to see the sheer volume of ruins which have been uncovered but not restored, and to imagine the scale of the ruins yet to be discovered. At the entrance to the site is a superb museum which contains artefacts from Aphrodisias, displayed in a very clear manner.

The excellence of the museum is no doubt due to the site being excavated by a Turkish archaeologist – seemingly a rarity among the main Turkish sites – so the highlights have remained in the country.

Whirling dervishes

Roman theatre, Aspendos

Sufism is a mystical Islamic order in which devotees perform Dikhr, a ritual act of remembrance of God, often in a formal Sama ceremony which can include music, recitation, singing or even dancing. The Mevlevi are a separate order of Sufism whose Sama ceremony is in the form of a mesmerising, twirling dance; hence the name whirling dervishes. Their ceremony begins with a musical recitation of a verse from the Koran by a hafiz, a scholar who has learnt the Koran by heart. This is followed by an improvisation on a ney reed flute, accompanied by the deep boom of a kettledrum. The dervishes then are led around the ceremonial hall by their master, before removing their black cloaks as a symbolic act of deliverance from worldly connections. One by one, the dervishes begin their dance, starting with their arms folded across their chest and gradually raising one arm to Heaven, while the other points towards the ground. In this position the dervishes whirl, trancelike, around the hall in four salams which represent the progressive journey each believer goes through, from recognition of God to the ecstasy of the surrender to divinity and

Whirling dervishes, Konya

peace of the heart. The ceremony is concluded by a final recitation from the Koran and a prayer by the dervish master.

Old Town, Antalya

Antalya

Konya

Antalya is as laid-back as you might expect from a city on the Mediterranean with a seven kilometre beach stretching along its frontier. Its attractive Old Town is a great place to be based, and exploring its narrow, cobbled streets and traditional architecture is a lovely way to spend a few hours.

A more traditional town than many, Konya is famous as being the burial place of Rumi, the esteemed Islamic poet and philosopher and founder of the Mevlevi Order, otherwise known as the order of the whirling dervishes.

Even today, Konya is the most religiously conservative city in Turkey. The city’s history dates back to 3000 BC and it was a prominent settlement for several of the dynasties and empires which followed, eventually becoming capital of the Sultanate of Rum during the Seljuk era. Konya is a fascinating blend of ancient and modern, with antique mosques, traditional Seljuk architecture and a maze of narrow market streets, surrounded by the more contemporary university and shopping malls. The city’s centre is focused around this market district, an important Seljuk mosque on Alaaddin Hill (Tempesi), and the Mevlana Museum, which attracts Muslim visitors from all over the world each year.

Antalya has one of the best archaeological museums in the country, which complements the three ancient cities which lie close by: Perge, Aspendos, and Termessos. Around 17 kilometres to the east of Antalya is Perge, a large and comprehensive site which was once an important city in the 2nd and 3rd centuries BC. Aspendos, to the east of the city, has arguably Turkey’s best, most complete theatre, built during the reign of Emperor Marcus Aurelius in the 2nd century AD. Aspendos is surrounded by mountains which makes this excellentlypreserved theatre even more spectacular.

Termessos is slightly further from Antalya but is an even larger ancient city than Perge, and dates back to well before 333 BC, which is the first known record of the city.

Young woman, Konya

Puding Marina Residence, Antalya Located in the heart of Antalya’s Old Town, just a short walk from the marina, the Puding Marina Residence combines the tradition of the local architecture with a modern, comfortable interior.

The 71 rooms are set around an inner courtyard which contains a small outdoor pool and gym. A restaurant is in the adjacent building and serves local cuisine, while a small spa is located in the main building.

Puding Marina Residence, Antalya

www.audleytravel.com/turkey • 01993 838 460 • Turkey

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Hot air balloons over Cappadocia

Cappadocia

Cappadocia’s history

An otherworldly expanse of bizarre rock formations, honeycomb cave dwellings and astonishingly vivid colours: this is the landscape of Cappadocia, an unforgettable place for anyone who visits.

Cappadocia’s human history is as fascinating as its geology, and dates back to 1800 BC when the Hittites first settled in the area. After the fall of the Hittite Empire it became a tributary of the Great Persian King, ruled by feudal aristocracy until Alexander the Great’s invasion, when Cappadocia became its own kingdom. The Kingdom of Cappadocia lasted several centuries and maintained independence during the time of the Roman Empire until the death of the last Cappadocian king, Archelaus, when Emperor Tiberius finally reduced the region to a mere province. Before Christianity became an accepted religion in the area, Cappadocia was used as a hiding place by Christians, who excavated underground cities from the soft rock in which to hide. These can be visited today at the Goreme Open-Air Museum, along with numerous examples of early churches carved into the rocks and fairy chimneys, many with well-preserved religious murals painted on the walls.

The distinctive geology of the region is a result of volcanic activity millions of years ago which created a plateau of compressed volcanic ash, followed by intense erosion caused by rivers, rain and the extremes of the Cappadocian climate.

The rock in the area is very soft beyond the hardened outer shell, and has been burrowed by its human population since the area was first settled to form caves and even underground cities. Today, many of these cave dwellings have been transformed into beautiful boutique properties offering luxurious accommodation even in such rustic surrounds.

Cappadocia is an outdoor enthusiast’s haven, offering activities of all kinds, from walking and biking through to jeep safaris and the iconic hot air balloon rides which grace so many photographs of the region. However, it is perfectly possible to experience the landscape in a more sedate manner also, with several outstanding viewpoints accessible by car. We can also arrange a visit to a local family to indulge in some homemade cooking.

Mural in Goreme Open-Air Museum, Cappadocia

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View from Argos in Cappadocia

Argos in Cappadocia A beautiful example of a series of restored cave dwellings, the Argos is an excellent option for those wanting a luxury stay in traditional surrounds. Located below Uchisar Castle, the 53 rooms are interspersed with gardens and terraces on a hillside which overlooks the valley towards Goreme, so throughout the grounds there are outstanding views. The hotel boasts an ancient underground tunnel and a subterranean warren which has been converted into extensive wine cellars containing, amongst others, wine from the hotel’s own vineyard. Many of the ingredients for the delicious food served in the hotel’s restaurant come from the property’s own kitchen gardens, and dried chillies can often be seen hanging from a fairy chimney within the grounds.

Spring landscape, Cappadocia

Handmade pottery, Cappadocia

Man tending his vineyard, Cappadocia

Fairy chimneys, Cappadocia

Ankara

Yunak Evleri, Cappadocia Each of the 40 rooms of the Yunak Evleri is set into a dramatic rock face just on the outskirts of Urgup, which once accommodated a community living in cave houses. Photos of these previous cave owners can be found in one of the hotel’s many lounge rooms, decorated with vintage and traditional furnishings. In the summer, the restaurant is on an outdoor terrace in front of the main building while in the winter meals are served inside, and throughout the year there is a ‘help-yourself’ honesty kitchen stocked with both soft and alcoholic drinks. Rooms are comfortably furnished and each has its own balcony or terrace with excellent views towards Urgup.

Yunak Evleri, Cappadocia

Cookery course in Cappadocia

Local experiences in Cappadocia Although the landscape looks fairly barren, the volcanic soil is actually richly fertile and yields excellent vegetables and fruit, including grapes for Cappadocia’s thriving wine industry. Local ingredients are therefore used in all cooking, and villagers have passed the art of producing excellent home-cooked food down through the generations. Spending time in a local family’s home, learning how to cook traditional meals is an excellent way to experience rural life in Cappadocia. Another local speciality is handcrafted pottery, which you can buy in the shops of Istanbul. One of the finest pottery masters in the country is located in the Cappadocia region, and it is possible to visit his workshop to buy his creations, or even take part in a pottery class of your own while you’re here.

The capital of Turkey and its second largest city, Ankara is actually a much lesser-known destination than many other cities in the country.

Despite its long history the city first came into prominence in 1919 when Ataturk decided to make Ankara his base following his victory in Turkey’s War of Independence. Since then it has been developed as the country’s economic and political centre, and although it is not the most captivating of Turkey’s cities, it is nevertheless interesting to see the financial success of the country reflected here in the modern architecture and thriving population. Ankara’s main attractions are within or surrounding the Citadel, a labyrinth of winding streets enclosed by and spilling out of the castle walls. Close to here is the excellent Anatolian Civilisations Museum, one of Turkey’s best museums, displaying artefacts from almost all of the main archaeological sites in the country, dating from as far back as Neolithic times.

View to the Citadel, Ankara

www.audleytravel.com/turkey • 01993 838 460 • Turkey

21

Whirling dervishes, Konya

Tailoring your trip The itineraries shown are designed to give you a flavour of what is possible, and are routes that work particularly well. We can use these as a basis to plan your trip or can design a completely different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests. Please call one of our Turkey specialists to start planning your itinerary.

T 01993 838 460

Getting around Turkey is an enormous country so unless you have a long time to spend here we recommend a combination of road journeys and domestic flights. The roads here are excellent and you are likely to travel through some stunning and diverse terrain, from mountains to coastal roads to open plains. Travelling by road will be with a private driver and guide, in very comfortable vehicles which have air conditioning.

When to go Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun

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~

3

33 33 33

Prices Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

3

3

33 33

3

3

33 The best time to travel.

3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.

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Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year.

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices for your trip to Turkey on our website, or alternatively please call our specialists to discuss your plans.

5 Travel is not recommended.

Although typically seen as a summer destination, Turkey can actually be visited all year round, depending on where your interests lie. The summer months from June through to September are very hot, with temperatures reaching around 35C (95F) in the south, which can make visiting the sites quite uncomfortable, however this can be a good time to visit the coast. Cruises operate from late March through to late October and during these months most sites can get extremely busy. The weather begins to cool off from late October, and November through to March can get quite cold, especially in the interior such as Cappadocia. Here, the temperature can drop below 0C (32F). Many hotels in coastal areas close during these months.

However, despite the cool temperatures these winter months can be the best time to explore the sites, as they are quieter during this time.

Time difference: GMT+2 hours Interior of the Blue Mosque, Sultanahmet

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Suggested itineraries bulgaria

bulgaria

Istanbul Canakkale

bulgaria

Istanbul

turkey

Istanbul

turkey

turkey

Ankara

Pergamon Alacati

Izmir

Ephesus Pamukkale

Sirince Aphrodisias

Konya

Cappadocia

Antalya greece

Grand Tour of Turkey A comprehensive trip allowing you to visit many of Turkey’s excellent historical sites and to explore some of the country’s staggering landscape. You’ll also delve deeper into Turkish culture by spending time in some varied cities, including magnificent Istanbul.

Day 1

Arrive in Istanbul.

Days 2-4 Explore Istanbul with your guide, including Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and the Spice Market.

Day 5

Leave Istanbul and drive to the Gallipoli Peninsula to visit the battlefields and memorials here.

Day 6

Travel on to fascinating Pergamon, before continuing to Alacati.

Cirali

Discover the highlights of Turkey including Istanbul, the ancient ruined cities of Ephesus and Termessos, the spectacular landscape of Cappadocia and Turkey’s famed Turquoise Coast.

This is an excellent introduction to Turkey, allowing time in the lively capital, time to explore the staggering rock formations of Cappadocia, and time to relax on the Turquoise Coast.

Day 1

Arrive in Istanbul.

Day 1

Arrive in Istanbul.

Day 2

Take a full day tour of the city with your guide, including the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia and the Grand Bazaar.

Day 2

Explore the city with your private guide, visiting the Spice Market, Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace and the Rustem Pasa Mosque.

Day 3

Enjoy a cruise along the Bosphorus, see the opulence of the Dolmabahce Palace and the enticing aromas of the Spice Market.

Day 3

Continue your exploration today, visiting sites including the Grand Bazaar and the Blue Mosque.

Day 4

Day 4

Fly to Izmir, then explore the magnificent ancient city Ephesus.

Continue on to Sirince.

Take a cruise along the Bosphorus, then visit the Dolmabahce Palace and Suleymaniye Mosque.

Day 5

Fly to Cappadocia, then spend the rest of the day relaxing amid the glorious scenery.

Day 6

An early start to go hot air ballooning with the sunrise. Later, take a jeep safari through the best of the rock formations and visit the ancient cave churches of the Goreme Open Air Museum.

Day 7

Take part in a cookery course in a local family home.

Day 8

Fly to Dalaman then drive along the coast to the pretty fishing village of Kas.

Day 9

Time to explore the area at leisure.

Day 10

Enjoy the stunning Turquoise Coast scenery.

Day 11

A final day to relax by the sea.

Day 12

Return to Dalaman to connect with your international flight via Istanbul.

Day 8

Drive to Sirince, stopping on the way to explore Ephesus.

Day 5

Explore the pretty countryside surrounding Sirince.

Day 9

Explore the vineyards of Sirince.

Day 6

Day 10

Drive to the striking limestone terraces of Pamukkale.

Return to Izmir to fly on to Antalya.

Drive along the coast to Cirali.

Day 7

Spend the day relaxing on the beach.

Day 11

Explore the ruins of Hierapolis, before driving on to Aphrodisias.

Continue to Antalya.

Day 8

Another day to enjoy the mountainous scenery or relax by the sea.

Visit the excellent Antalya Museum, the ruined city of Perge and nearby ancient theatre of Aspendos.

Day 9

Return to Antalya and visit the excellent archaeological museum here, as well as the ancient city of Perge and nearby ruined theatre Aspendos.

Drive to Konya, home to the whirling dervishes, and visit the Mevlana Museum.

Day 14

Journey on to Cappadocia, stopping at Kaymakli underground city.

Day 15

Embark on a sunrise hot air ballooning trip. Visit the Goreme Open-Air Museum, then take a jeep safari to see the best views in the area.

Day 16

Take part in a local cookery course.

In the evening, watch a whirling dervish ceremony.

Day 17

Drive to Ankara and visit the Anatolian Civilizations Museum.

Day 18

Fly back to Istanbul in time for your return flight.

Kas

greece

Istanbul, Cappadocia & the Turquoise Coast

Spend the day exploring pretty Alacati and its coastal surrounds.

Day 13

Dalaman

Culture, Coast & Fairy Chimneys

Day 7

Day 12

Cappadocia

Sirince

Antalya greece

Cappadocia

Ephesus

Day 10

Day 11

Day 12

Head into the Taurus Mountains to visit the ruined city of Termessos, perched on the mountainside.

Fly to Cappadocia and spend the rest of the day enjoying the landscape. In the evening, watch a whirling dervish ceremony.

Get up early to go hot air ballooning at sunrise. Later, embark on a jeep safari and explore the excellent Goreme Open-Air Museum.

Day 13

Take part in a local cookery course.

Day 14

Fly back to Istanbul, ready for your return flight.

Stay longer You can extend your trip with more time to explore fascinating Istanbul, or alternatively fly west from Kas to visit some of Turkey’s ancient ruined cities such as Ephesus and Pergamon.

www.audleytravel.com/turkey • 01993 838 460 • Turkey

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Morocco T

he essence of Morocco is found in its intoxicating blend of cultures, in the heady aromas found within labyrinthine souqs, in the traditional Berber houses clinging to steep mountain slopes, and the sweeping sand dunes of the Sahara. Morocco’s history tells a tale of Roman invasion, Islamic conquests, Berber dynasties and European colonisation, and each stage left its own legacy of ruins, mosques, palaces and mosaics. This rich inheritance is also an intrinsic part of Morocco’s present, and is not just evident in the many physical monuments. Moroccan cuisine also bears witness to the country’s multicultural history: traditional Arab influences are overlaid with indigenous Berber flavours and more than a touch of French sophistication. From the narrow alleys of medinas, encircled by centuries-old ramparts, to the striking white and blue walls of houses in the north, the architecture too reflects the country’s varied heritage. Beyond the cities, the landscape is just as fascinating: verdant national parks, rugged mountain ranges, endless sand dunes and weathered coastlines present infinite opportunities to explore, and to sample a taste of Moroccan life.

Audley in Morocco

Asilah

4

Rif

Chefchaouen

6

RABAT

Casablanca

Voloubilis

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100 miles

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161 kilometres

1

5

O ce

Essaouira

Marrakesh

2 gh Hi

Mo un

3 as Atl

MOROCCO

las At

Ait Ben Haddou Skoura alley V Ouarzazate es Dad Taroudant Zagora s

Erg Chebbi

Mount Toubkal

an Souss-Massa National Park

Tafraoute

tain s

Fez

Meknes dle Mid

At lan tic

Morocco’s diversity guarantees that it offers something to suit all tastes, and we are able to arrange a variety of experiences to enable visitors to really get under the skin of the country, using knowledgeable local guides.

Cookery courses can be organised in both Marrakesh and Fez, either in a traditional riad, a cookery school, or with a local family.

In the High Atlas Mountains we can plan walks of all lengths and difficulties, from short meanders through the lower valleys with mint tea in a Berber home, to multi-day hikes over some of the higher peaks in the region. We can arrange anything from short breaks to longer explorations of the country’s varied regions.

Mediterranean Sea

Tangier

la i At Ant

h a S a

r a

D

e

s

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r t

ALGERIA

Accommodation Finding local characterful accommodation is always high on our list of priorities. We regularly scour the country for the best riads and hotels Morocco has to offer, and can recommend a wide range of properties from the simple and traditional to the modern and luxurious. In Marrakesh and Fez we recommend staying inside the old city walls, known as the medina, as this gives you a real feel for the city. We think Moroccan riads are among the most beautiful and characterful properties in the world, with service to match. In the more remote areas of the mountains and the arid south, there are a growing number of properties adapted from old mud and brick kasbahs, which also offer distinct character and comfort.

Ramadan and Eid Being a Muslim country, certain key dates and festivals such as the month of Ramadan and the festivals of Eid can make a difference to your travel plans. They do not rule out a visit, though they will change your experience of Morocco. Our specialists can advise you accordingly.

WESTERN SAHARA

1 Djemaa El Fna

At sunset, Marrakesh’s main square transforms into an open theatre with snake charmers, storytellers and acrobats performing amid food stalls selling anything from fresh juice to sheep head soup.

See page 26 2 High Atlas Mountains Craggy peaks, fertile valleys and traditional Berber villages perched on the slopes: the High Atlas Mountains offer excellent opportunities for both walking and relaxing.

See pages 28-29 3 Fez medina More traditional than Marrakesh, the winding maze of souqs and tanneries within Fez’s medina has the feel of a living museum.

See page 34

4 Chefchaouen

Wander the relaxed streets of this distinctive blue and white town in the Rif Mountains.

See page 38 5 Essaouira Sample some fresh fish within Essaouira’s impressive ramparts, home to a large fishing fleet and a wonderfully laid-back atmosphere.

See page 30 6 Voloubilis

The furthest western outpost of the Roman Empire, Voloubilis boasts some impressive mosaics.

See page 35

Typical architecture, Chefchaouen

Moroccan cuisine Aromatic and delicious, Moroccan cuisine is simply excellent. Popular dishes range from tagines and couscous to flaky pastry pastilla.

Riads With central leafy courtyards and a handful of rooms, these charming boutique properties offer an excellent base for any stay in Morocco.

www.audleytravel.com/morocco • 01993 838 420 • Morocco

25

Djemaa el Fna, Marrakesh

Marrakesh

Marrakesh riads

A lively, colourful city, Marrakesh is defined by its old medina and souqs, which lattice the centre and resound with the hum of craftsmanship and the tantalising aroma of exotic spices. At the heart of the medina is the Djemaa El Fna, an open space which comes alive at night with entertainers and soothsayers amid the food stalls. Over its turbulent history the city has fallen in and out of favour with the ruling sultans, but its function as a trading place has continued regardless. Rising above this activity are proud reminders of the city’s past in the towering minarets, ornate tombs and cavernous palaces.

These are encircled by ochre ramparts, shaded beneath palms and framed by the distant backdrop of the Atlas Mountains. Marrakesh’s many gardens offer a haven of tranquillity in this busy city. The best known of these is the Majorelle Garden, where vibrant plants surround a striking cobalt-blue Art Deco pavilion.

Traditional riads are our favourite places to stay in Morocco. These charming properties offer accommodation for just a few guests and provide a uniquely Moroccan experience. Many are converted from 19 th or 20 th-century merchants’ houses. A typical riad has rooms which surround an enclosed courtyard with a garden or fountain.

They tend to be small, with fewer than 20 rooms, and are furnished with a mixture of traditional and modern French-influenced styles. Breakfast is included, and in most riads traditional evening meals can also be prepared with advance notice.

We have included a few of our favourites here, and our specialists can advise you on which one to pick.

Riad Ilayka, Marrakesh

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Riad Ilayka, Marrakesh Small and traditional, Riad Ilayka is located in the midst of the souqs, approximately a ten minute walk from the Djemaa el Fna. Each of the seven rooms has been lovingly decorated in its own unique style, combining tradition and luxury.

Overlooking the leafy central courtyard there is a charming first floor terrace where breakfast is served. On the roof terrace, you can cool off from the Marrakesh heat in the small corner pool or enjoy a refreshing mint tea in the cushioned turret area, whilst admiring the Marrakesh skyline.

Riad Palais Khum, Marrakesh

Riad Palais Khum, Marrakesh Located just off a road of antique dealers, Riad Palais Khum offers a beautiful haven in the heart of the old medina. Restored from an ancient foundouk (caravanserai), this modern riad retains all of the charm and tradition surrounding Moroccan hospitality, with an updated twist.

Warm reds and earth tones provide a beautiful blend of contemporary Italian and traditional Moroccan styles throughout the riad. Each of the 11 rooms has its own unique design. With a large heated plunge pool next to the main lounge, Riad Palais Khum also offers two hammam rooms as well as a wellness centre. A separate restaurant and cafe are also located on site serving traditional Moroccan cuisine and Italian classics, as well as a traditional Italian bakery.

Food stall, Djemaa el Fna, Marrakesh

Koutoubia Mosque and gardens, Marrakesh

Alleyways of the medina, Marrakesh

La Sultana, Marrakesh This property is a collection of charming individual riads, which combine to form a characterful, luxury hotel that feels much smaller than it actually is. Each of the 28 rooms has a different theme and design, reflecting the various influences that have impacted on Moroccan history. The spacious roof terraces directly overlook the Saadian Tombs while offering distant views of the snow-capped High Atlas Mountains. The large pool is one of the best you will find in any riad and there is a first class spa for treatments after a long day.

Moroccan cuisine Food is one of the great pleasures of travel in Morocco. Whether you eat in a restaurant or at a busy stall in the souq, you will be delighted with the unique flavours of local, fresh ingredients. Perhaps the most unusual dish is pastilla, which is minced pigeon meat cooked with sweet spices such as cinnamon and folded between layers of flaky pastry that is usually topped with a dusting of icing sugar. As strange as the combination may sound, the contrast of sweet and savoury is very tasty. Tagine is a national dish, the name referring to the conical pot in which the stew is slowly cooked. Again, ingredients such as dates

Tagine

Spices for sale in the souq, Marrakesh

and apricots bring sweet flavours into a savoury dish, with red meat such as lamb or beef slowly cooked until it is very tender.

Couscous, another favourite, is made of semolina-like grains of half-baked flour that are repeatedly steamed and oiled so the grains do not stick together. This is often eaten with a tagine, although Moroccans tend to prefer to scoop up their sauce with fresh bread. Certain riads and cafes offer excellent cookery courses and it is worth knowing that many riads are also now offering a tasty selection of gluten-free delicacies.

La Sultana, Marrakesh

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A kasbah in the hills, High Atlas Mountains

High Atlas Mountains The Atlas Mountains are in fact three distinct ranges that run in bands across Morocco’s interior, dividing it into strips of lower-lying land.

Furthest north are the Middle Atlas, while the southerly range are the Anti Atlas that attempt to keep the desolate Western Sahara at bay.

The central High Atlas range is the most dramatic and by far the most accessible, containing North Africa’s highest peak – the 4,167-metre Mount Toubkal – as well as countless Berber villages terraced onto precipitous ledges. From Marrakesh, it only takes around 45 minutes to drive to the High Atlas, a wonderful chance to retreat to the clear mountain air.

Kasbah Bab Ourika, High Atlas Mountains The stylish Kasbah Bab Ourika perches on a hilltop at the apex of the Ourika Valley. Built to resemble an authentic Moroccan kasbah, the interior is beautifully traditional, emphasising the surrounding landscape. What makes the property stand out, however, are its spacious and attractive terraces and gardens which sweep down the hillside from the property and are perfect to relax in while admiring the spectacular mountain panorama. The swimming pool is heated by solar panels, one of many environmentally friendly projects which the Kasbah operates, and ingredients for the delicious food served here are locally sourced, or from their own allotments.

Kasbah Tamadot, High Atlas Mountains Just an hour’s drive from Marrakesh, Richard Branson’s Kasbah Tamadot showcases some of the finest examples of traditional art and design in the area. No expense has been spared in restoring this remarkable building. Ornate lamps and antique artefacts beautifully complement the stunning mountain backdrop, and each of the 27 rooms and suites has been individually furnished. The Kasbah Tamadot also boasts an indoor and outdoor pool, a fully-equipped gym, a tennis court and sweeping views over the surrounding valleys.

Kasbah Tamadot, High Atlas Mountains

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Kasbah Bab Ourika, High Atlas Mountains

Domaine Malika, High Atlas Mountains This hotel offers guests a modern boutique hotel experience in a mountainous setting. It is nestled in a large valley rich with olive groves and pine trees, within sight of the High Atlas Mountains.

Domaine Malika has seven spacious rooms and suites, all boasting unique decor and great views across the grounds. A quirky Art Deco theme pervades the hotel, contrasting with the extensive grounds and stunning scenery. The hotel offers a full range of spa treatments including a hammam, body wraps and various massages.

Domaine Malika, High Atlas Mountains

Villagers carrying water, High Atlas Mountains

Berber man, High Atlas Mountains

Berber lady with her mule, High Atlas Mountains

Berber village in the High Atlas Mountains

Walking in the High Atlas Mountains

The Capaldi, High Atlas Mountains

The Capaldi, High Atlas Mountains Reminiscent of a luxurious private residence, The Capaldi is located just 35 minutes’ drive from Marrakesh, en route to the High Atlas Mountains. Its 23 stylish rooms are sprawled spaciously around luscious gardens and two stunning pools. The Capaldi also boasts an impressive spa and hammam, a gym and even a small cinema which can be reserved for guests.

Simply decorated but with a traditional Moroccan flavour, the hotel’s style matches the excellent cuisine served in the restaurant, headed by a talented French chef.

Walking in the High Atlas Mountains is an excellent way of seeing some of the region’s most spectacular scenery, and walks of all lengths and difficulties can be arranged.

Trips can range from a few hours of rambling in the fertile and verdant foothills by yourself, to fully guided treks. You can even undertake a longer trek lasting several days, where simple, remote lodges or your own private camp under the stars provide a soothing respite at the end of a tiring day.

The ascent of Mount Toubkal is a favourite, requiring no technical expertise but a good level of fitness and commitment.

Man pouring tea, High Atlas Mountains

Mule train in the High Atlas Mountains

Wherever you stay in the mountains, guided treks can be arranged in advance or directly through the hotel when you arrive.

Alternatively, you can follow one of many well-marked trails.

Part of the appeal of walking in this part of the world is the chance to meet the local Berber people, who may invite you into their homes for some mint tea. For one of the highest mountain ranges on the continent, you will find the High Atlas to be surprisingly populated and accessible, but this is all part of the charm, with Berber villages perched on high peaks, framed by snow-capped alpine summits.

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Essaouira harbour

Villa de L’O, Essaouira

Villa de L’O, Essaouira

Essaouira Essaouira is one of the prettiest and most relaxed towns in Morocco. Located on the Atlantic coast, it is surrounded by long stretches of beach, with wind and waves that have drawn the windsurfing and surfing communities here.

They have perpetuated the laid-back atmosphere that grew in the town during the 1960s, when this undiscovered gem was a favourite retreat of artists and musicians, including Jimi Hendrix.

The appeal of the town lies in the beautiful juxtaposition of the imposing Portuguese ramparts and the rolling surf of the Atlantic.

At the heart of the town the harbour, fortified by the Portuguese, is home to a large fishing fleet that ensures Essaouira’s fish restaurants are amongst the best in the country. Essaouira is also famous for the woodcarving of local artisans, who sell their wares in souqs beneath the ramparts.

An 18 th-century riad, the Villa de L’O has been beautifully restored to a very high standard.

It has a superb location, just inside the medina walls, and is only a few metres from the beach and souqs. The spacious 12 rooms and suites all have their own individual design, and surround a central leafy courtyard and breakfast area.

The attractive rooftop terrace boasts some of the best views over Essaouira bay, and it is a great place to relax over breakfast during the summer months.

Riad Watier, Essaouira This intimate riad is based in the old medina of Essaouira. The ten spacious rooms are tastefully decorated with neutral tones of white and beige contrasted with bright splashes of colourful textiles and locally-crafted wooden furniture.

Two small roof terraces offer views of the coastline, a perfect place to enjoy a drink before dinner or to relax in the evening sun on the loungers. This is one of the only hotels in town to have a full time cook who will prepare you traditional Moroccan or French dishes, served in an attractive dining room. The riad also has a small exterior courtyard and a cosy library.

Heure Bleue Palais, Essaouira

Heure Bleue Palais, Essaouira A beautifully renovated riad located in the medina, the Heure Bleue Palais has an impressive inner courtyard with the surrounding 33 rooms and suites decorated in a mixture of African, Portuguese and English colonial style. A Relais & Chateaux property, the hotel provides many extra facilities that the smaller riads do not have such as a pool, spa, restaurant and bar. The roof terrace has views over the port and beach.

Riad Watier, Essaouira

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Wadi Massa, Souss-Massa National Park

Section of the ramparts, Taroudant

Ashy-headed wagtail, Souss-Massa National Park

Local men, Taroudant

Taroudant

Souss-Massa National Park

Taroudant has a reputation as a ‘little Marrakesh’ but remains off-the-beaten-track. Historically an important town controlling trade routes to the south, dominating the economy of the Souss Valley and once, briefly, the capital of the country, Taroudant boasts probably the most complete set of ramparts in Morocco. These are particularly impressive to view at sunset, when the light glows on their ochre battlements. The souqs are one of the main draws in Taroudant: they are neither as extensive nor as full of venerable monuments as the souqs of Marrakesh or Fez but offer something closer to the spirit of a true local market. Due to being further from the tourist trail than the main cities, haggling is not as inherent here.

Stretched out along the coast to the south of Agadir, the sandbars, ponds and reedbeds of the Souss-Massa provide perhaps the most important habitat in Morocco for birdlife.

Home to ibis, flamingos, kingfishers and cranes amongst others, the park also runs important captive-breeding programmes for endangered bird species, such as the rare bald ibis. Although it is the birdlife which is the most celebrated in the park, there is also a large diversity of other wildlife here, including jackals, African wild cats, gazelle, oryx and ostrich. While the immediate area of the lagoon is protected, birdwatchers can find plenty of opportunity to watch wildlife from the paths that traverse the park. The landscape of the Souss-Massa varies enormously, from looming sand dunes and rocky expanses to more fertile river plains, vast stretches of sandy beaches to more rugged coastline, peppered with bays and cliffs. There are also several small, traditional Berber villages within the park.

Dar Zitoune, Taroudant

Shop in the souq, Taroudant

Dar Zitoune, Taroudant Set in four acres of landscaped grounds, picturesquely dotted with olive, palm and orange trees, Dar Zitoune was created in traditional Berber style architecture using only local materials. There are 14 comfortable, bungalow style rooms and eight suites with separate sitting rooms. Although not recognisably Moroccan in style, they are spacious and attractively designed.

The pool is wonderful in the summer heat, while the adjacent open-air heated Jacuzzi is ideal for relaxation in the cooler winter months. The property also has a small spa with hammam and a massage room with a choice of treatments, and the restaurant serves traditional food with local, home-grown ingredients.

Fishing boats, Souss-Massa National Park

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Ait Ben Haddou

Ouarzazate

Skoura

The Dades Valley

Ouarzazate boasts a significant role in the history of the south of Morocco, lying as it does at the confluence of the three major southern oasis valleys – the Draa, the Dades and the Ouarzazate. Extensive fortifications built by successive sultans trying to dominate and control this traditionally subversive region have come and gone, the pisé walls washed away in sporadic rains. The only lasting impression has been left by the French, who made Ouarzazate their southern garrison town, and laid out a grid of streets and built modern buildings to line them.

There are, however, a couple of well-preserved kasbahs in and around the town, and Ouarzazate is a great base for exploring the surrounding scenery: steep desert valleys filled with palms, leading into rocky desert plains. Close to Ouarzazate lies the spectacular ancient ksar town of Ait Ben Haddou, an extraordinary example of traditional clay-brick dwellings in the foothills of the High Atlas Mountains.

Skoura lies astride the route from Ouarzazate to the Sahara and is a town typical of those in the Dades Valley. The modern town offers little to detain the visitor, but the palm plantations are criss-crossed by paths that run by old pisé walls, starting to crumble, up to kasbahs in equally ruinous condition. The whole effect is quite beautiful and if you are going to break your journey anywhere in the Dades Valley, Skoura is a good place to do so.

The Dades Valley is the principal route between the desert and the ancient trading oasis of Tifilalt.

The main High Atlas are to the north, but at Todra the valley descends to a dramatic gorge that cuts through the mountains. It’s one of Morocco’s greatest natural sights, completed by a gently burbling stream and a welcoming cafe to rest at. At its eastern end, the valley joins that of the Ziz River, where towering palms threaten to spill over the canyon edge into the valley hundreds of metres below.

Les Jardins de Skoura, Skoura

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Les Jardins de Skoura, Skoura This is an attractive hotel, located in the Palmeraie on the outskirts of Skoura.

Traditionally built from mud and thatch to reflect the numerous kasbahs of the area, there are sitting areas on the roof to relax with a mint tea and enjoy the views out to the distant mountains. Local staff are employed here to provide job opportunities in an underdeveloped area, allowing guests to learn more about the local culture. Each of the eight rooms and suites is unique, decorated in a mixture of French and Moroccan design, while the suites also have open fires. The large gardens are a great place to relax, and the pool is perfect for cooling off at the end of a long day. Local ingredients are grown in the gardens and can be enjoyed in evening meals taken in the cosy restaurant area or outside under the stars.

Dades Gorge, Dades Valley

Lady with henna stained hands, Dades Valley

Granite scenery, Anti Atlas

Ruined kasbah, Dades Valley

Anti Atlas

Morocco at the movies

The Anti Atlas is the hub of all commerce in Morocco’s grocery trade: banana and orange groves flourish among the extensive vegetable crops, and this is the only area in which the argan nut – virtually unique to Morocco – is abundant.

The gentle foothills of the Anti Atlas are dotted with argan trees, where you are likely to capture the definitive Moroccan snapshot of a goat in a tree. Here, granite rock formations dominate the landscape, palm plantations line the beds of the valleys and the distinctive red painted stone houses enhance the region’s unique character.

Morocco lies at the heart of the north African film industry, welcoming both domestic and international productions.

It first came to international attention in the 1950s, when Orson Welles set most of his brooding film Othello in Essaouira.

Essaouira’s evocative setting, with the waves of the Atlantic crashing onto the ramparts, has made it a popular location for blockbusters, including Ridley Scott’s Kingdom of Heaven.

Ridley Scott returned to Morocco to use the atmospheric Ait Ben Haddou for many scenes in Gladiator; the town’s stunning cinematic location against the snow-capped mountain backdrop making it perfect for the silver screen. Michael Douglas was also here for Jewel of the Nile, flying a plane into a specially built archway that remains part of Ait Ben Haddou today. The town has also been used to film parts of popular TV show Game of Thrones. Close by there is a large film studio at Ouarzazate, which has drawn the international film industry to the area for films like Babel and The Mummy.

The ramparts of Essaouira

Morocco’s desert has been used to represent other Middle Eastern areas, while the High Atlas Mountains became Tibet for Martin Scorsese’s Kundun, with the Kasbah du Toubkal standing in for a Buddhist monastery.

Goat in an argan tree

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Tanners at work, Fez

Fez’s artisans

Kairaouiyne Mosque, Fez

Fez One of the most venerable cities in the Islamic world, Fez has periodically been the capital of Morocco, and boasts a wonderfully intact medieval medina. It is a city of three parts: Old Fez, dating back to the 9 th century Idrissid dynasty; New Fez, dating back to the 13th century; and the New Town, built by the French. Fez is a more traditional and intense city than Marrakesh, with a jumble of narrow alleys and uneven rooftops, assaulting the senses with exotic sounds and scents. It is far more of the Arab world than Marrakesh, and at its heart are the shrine of Moulay Idriss II, a major cult centre, and the Kairaouiyne Mosque built by Tunisian refugees in the 9 th century, which has been an influential force in Islamic thinking.

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While Marrakesh is Morocco’s most celebrated destination, many prefer the more earthy, less polished charms of Fez. Whereas its southern cousin has been shrewdly manoeuvred towards tourism for decades, Fez still feels like a working city, with craftsmen doing the same daily tasks that have been passed down through their families for generations.

Their locally produced wares are then sold on in a bustling warren of specialist souqs.

There are a huge range of crafts represented in distinct areas of the medina, including carved wood, embroidery, henna painting, calligraphy, ceramics and copper. Wander the maze of souqs and you are likely to take home some great souvenirs. The stalls don’t seem to suffer from being situated amid a dozen competitors selling virtually identical spoils.

Throughout the different souqs, you will quickly be able to identify the particular sights, sounds and especially smells that are unique to each craft.

Fez is best known for the production of leather goods at the iconic tanneries that

Metal worker, Fez

feature on virtually any visual depiction of the city. A visit to the tanneries in the Souq Dabbhagin, next to the dyers’ quarter, is a sensory experience of colours, bustle and stench. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is fascinating to visit the area and watch the tanners at work, balancing between vats of vibrant dyes before plunging into the one they need.

Roman mosaic, Voloubilis

Local man in the medina

Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail, Meknes

Roman archway, Voloubilis

Ryad Mabrouka, Fez Located in the heart of the ancient medina, the traditional Moroccan decor of this riad has a definite Andalusian influence. Its eight rooms are centred around an interior courtyard, which has columns, wonderful carved cedar doors and typical Moroccan mosaics, and opens onto a small garden filled with roses and citrus trees, with a small pool in one corner. The roof terrace offers panoramic views of the medina and surrounding countryside and good home-made traditional Moroccan food is served.

View across the old medina, Fez

Ryad Salama, Fez Found amid the back streets of Fez’s medina, the Ryad Salama is excellently located. It has a beautiful open mosaic tiled courtyard with a small pool and lovely relaxing seating areas with lots of natural shade provided by surrounding trees. With two regular rooms, two luxury rooms and two suites it’s never going to be crowded and can be a real sun trap in the afternoon. Each room features a balcony or patio with a view over the garden, and has traditional Moroccan decor with lots of light.

Riad Maison Bleue, Fez This intimate riad has a beautiful courtyard with a small pool which, when illuminated in the evening, provides the perfect romantic setting.

The roof terrace is equally appealing, a place to enjoy the views of the medina over breakfast before you set off to explore the city or to contemplate your day’s activities in the evening as the sun sets and the call to prayer echoes around you. The 18 rooms are decorated in traditional Fassi style with richly coloured textiles, intricate tile designs and cedar wood furniture. The riad also boasts an excellent restaurant, offering traditional Moroccan and French food, as well as a small spa, hammam, and gym.

Ryad Salama, Fez

Meknes & Voloubilis Only a short distance west of Fez, the fortunes of the small market town of Meknes took a dramatic turn when Sultan Moulay Ismail assumed power in the 17th century and chose it for his royal court. Huge palaces, harems and miles of walls pierced with arched gates were constructed. After his death, the city’s influence seeped away, and earthquakes and rain reduced his massive works to subsiding mud-bricks: only the monumental gates hint at its former glory.

A different period of history awaits at nearby Voloubilis, one of the Roman Empire’s key Moroccan settlements. Among the remains of buildings and streets, the colourful and vivid mosaic floors are the real highlights.

Riad Maison Bleue, Fez

www.audleytravel.com/morocco • 01993 838 420 • Morocco

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Erg Chebbi

Erg Chebbi The Erg Chebbi are the most accessible dunes of the Sahara in Morocco. The best times to see them are at sunrise and sunset, when the changing light subtly alters their colour with each passing second, from butter yellow to gold, ochre and honey. A night camping in the desert is a special experience; the deep tranquillity seemingly a million miles away from Morocco’s hectic cities, and the perfect, clear night skies displaying a vast curtain of stars. Realistically you will need at least a three day round trip to fit the desert in, but it can be easily included in a longer itinerary between Marrakesh and the northern highlights.

Sahara Desert Camp, Erg Chebbi Tented accommodation has been an integral part of desert life for centuries, and this private, eight tent camp offers a taste of the nomadic Bedouin life with a touch of extra comfort. The location is fixed deep in the towering dunes of the Sahara, and there are permanent staff on hand to serve meals in the restaurant tent. Accommodation is in spacious white tents which have en suite facilities and are colourfully decorated with exotic rugs, cushions and a comfortable bed. A night here usually involves a camel ride to a dune-top lookout to take in the sunset, followed by a traditional Bedouin dinner back at camp with the chance to stargaze before retiring for the night.

Kasbah Derkaoua, Erg Chebbi

Kasbah Derkaoua, Erg Chebbi

Sahara Desert Camp, Erg Chebbi

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Situated close to the small village of Merzouga on the outskirts of the Erg Chebbi dunes, Kasbah Derkaoua is ideal for anybody who is not keen on staying in a tent but would like to experience the majestic Sahara at close hand. There are 22 relatively simple but characterful rooms, adorned with traditional rugs in striking Berber colours.

The attractive garden is set amid scattered palms and olive trees, with tables and chairs tucked away in every corner and a swimming pool that is perfect for relaxing in after a hot day in the desert. The restaurant serves traditional Moroccan recipes and there are two cosy living rooms where you can unwind after dinner.

Royal Palace entrance, Casablanca

City walls, Rabat

Hassan II Mosque, Casablanca

Casablanca

Rabat

Thanks in part to the famous film of the same name, Casablanca features in many people’s concept of Morocco. In truth, none of the film was shot here and much of the city is like ports everywhere: quite crowded, industrial and full of thirsty sailors. It is a major hub, however, and is likely to feature somewhere on your itinerary if taking a longer trip in Morocco. While not offering many reasons to linger, it is the home of the Hassan II Mosque, undoubtedly the most impressive mosque in Morocco. Casablanca is also an international hub, well-stationed for visits to Rabat and itineraries exploring the north of the country.

Morocco’s capital shows two distinct faces: the modern, French-inspired town, with wide tree-lined boulevards, cafes and bistros frequented by government officials; and historic Rabat, centred on the 12th-century walled medina built by the Almohad sultans. Here, a forest of columns and the lower section of a huge Moroccan-style minaret are all that remain of Sultan Yacoub el Mansour’s attempt to build a mosque that was designed to rival that of Samarra in Iraq. Slightly further from the centre of town is the Chellah – the tombs of Morocco’s Merenid dynasty – now a wonderfully atmospheric, crumbling set of ruins. Rabat’s medina is smaller and more relaxed than those of Marrakesh or Fez, making it ideal for a short stay and exploration under your own steam.

Hassan II Mosque Built using donations from the public, the Hassan II Mosque is one of the finest religious buildings in north Africa and the seventh largest mosque in the world, with a prayer hall three times the size of St Paul’s Cathedral in London. While the scale is impressive, the mosque’s location on the shoreline is even more striking, with the huge minaret standing out against the crashing waves of the Atlantic. It was only fully completed in the 1990s, so it has none of the history associated with other mosques in the region, but there is no doubting its aesthetic impact. For non-Muslims, entry is only permitted in guided groups.

Boulevard Mohammed, Rabat

Fruit stall, Rabat

Villa Mandarine, Rabat Situated out of town amongst wealthy villas and embassies, Villa Mandarine has been lovingly transformed into a charming, sunlit villa, surrounded by orange groves. The colourful, comfortable rooms have been individually decorated and display pieces of artwork which have been carefully chosen to complement the rooms’ character. Each room also has a private terrace where breakfast can be taken in the first sunrays of the day. The villa has a large pool, a hammam and a gym. The restaurant, created in the style of an aquarium with huge windows looking out onto the lush green of the gardens, is decorated in the rich red of Marrakesh and has a welcoming and friendly atmosphere.

Most impressive of all are the extensive gardens, a wonderful place to wander and relax, with flowers blooming on every corner and lemon and grapefruit trees interspersed amongst the Seville oranges.

www.audleytravel.com/morocco • 01993 838 420 • Morocco

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Blue painted steps, Chefchaouen

Casa Hassan, Chefchaouen

Casa Hassan, Chefchaouen

Chefchaouen

Based in an unbeatable central location in the medina and renowned for its high quality local food, the Casa Hassan is the best-known place to stay within Chefchaouen. The aesthetic throughout reflects a combination of traditional Moroccan design with a touch of Andalusian influence that is relatively common in the north of the country. The 14 rooms are simple but comfortable and stylishly designed, and some boast fireplaces for the cooler winter months.

There is a roof terrace with great views over the medina and surrounding countryside, and a selection of cosy communal sitting areas.

Chefchaouen is the main city in the Rif Mountain region in the north of Morocco, and is undoubtedly one of the prettiest towns in the country. The city is dramatically situated, with blue and whitewashed buildings perching on the mountainside and small steep alleys, paths and stairways winding around the tightly packed old medina. It remained a bastion against European influence until 1920, when the first Christians were allowed to enter, and the town retains a strong Arabic and Andalusian feel, with traditional wrought iron and beautifully woven lamps. Chefchaouen is a relaxed and tranquil town with a rather bohemian feel, and is a perfect antidote to many of the larger cities in Morocco, with superb views of the surrounding countryside.

The Rif Mountains Separating the bulk of Morocco from the Mediterranean, the northern Rif Mountains have a long and turbulent history. Few rulers have ever completely subdued the indigenous tribes and some areas are still off limits due to the widespread cultivation of marijuana. Immediately north of Fez, the scenery is a patchwork of agricultural greens, becoming more classically mountainous further north and east, where the snow-capped Jebel Tidighine overlooks the rolling peaks to one side and the Mediterranean coast to the other. One of the wildest, least modernised areas of Morocco, the Rif is nevertheless an excellent, off-the-beaten-track destination for a bit of trekking and to escape the crowds of Marrakesh.

Narrow streets, Chefchaouen

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The Rif Mountains

Local men, Chefchaouen

Boats in the harbour, Tangier

Mosque, Tangier

Tangier For many years Tangier enjoyed the status of an International Free Zone, set apart from rules and regulations, which helped create a cosmopolitan and somewhat raffish society. Something of this spirit lingers and life in Tangier has more of an edge than any other Moroccan city. There is an attractive old medina which blends Islamic and Berber influences but also some wonderful examples of Art Deco architecture dating back to the city’s louche days of the 20 th century.

A couple of days exploring the medina and surrounding highlights, interrupted by some relaxation time at the beach is the perfect way to experience Tangier.

Musician, Tangier

Villa Josephine, Tangier Built in the 1900s and inhabited by some celebrated figures over the years, the Villa Josephine remains one of the most prestigious properties in Tangier. Located on the outskirts of Tangier, on a hillside with exceptional views overlooking the ocean, Villa Josephine is set amid manicured grounds with terraces positioned to make the most of the views. The decor has a quintessentially English country manor feel, as a nod to the founding of the property. It has ten beautifully decorated rooms and suites, an elegant dining room and a swimming pool in the middle of a tropical garden, all just ten minutes’ drive from the Grand Socco and the kasbah.

Villa Josephine, Tangier

Asilah Asilah is a fortified town on the northwest tip of the Atlantic coast of Morocco, about 50 kilometres from Tangier. It boasts a small, beautifully preserved medina with a picturesque location right by the shoreline. The town itself has a Spanish feel, with lovely whitewashed buildings and public artwork on the walls of many of the narrow alleyways. There are some beaches in the vicinity, which are not ideal for sunbathing but excellent for a relaxing stroll. Its history dates back to 1500 BC, when it was a trade base for the Phoenicians. Asilah served as a base for pirates in the 19 th and 20 th centuries, and was under the Spanish Empire during parts of the 20 th century. Easy to navigate and soothingly low-key, Asilah is perfect for a day of relaxation between Morocco’s better known destinations.

Asilah

www.audleytravel.com/morocco • 01993 838 420 • Morocco

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Essaouira

Tailoring your trip

Getting around

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a flavour of what is possible, and are routes that work particularly well. We can use these as a basis to plan your trip or can design a completely different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests. Please call one of our Morocco specialists to start planning your itinerary.

Morocco has an excellent road network covering most of the country. While some drives can be long, the scenery is often stunning, and covers a wide variety of terrain, from desert to mountain to coast. Most of your journeys will be in private, air-conditioned vehicles with a driver. There is a limited train network between a few cities, but for most journeys road is the only option.

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When to go Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun

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Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

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33 33

3

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33 The best time to travel.

3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.

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Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year.

5 Travel is not recommended.

Morocco can be roughly divided into three climatic regions: the coast, the desert areas of the south, and the Rif and Atlas mountain ranges of the higher interior. Throughout the country, the temperature varies considerably over the course of a day and even on a summer evening a sweater may be necessary. In winter, November to February, temperatures can fall low enough for a widespread frost with snow on the mountains. Rain does fall during the winter, although not often and seldom in large amounts.

The coastal regions can be visited year round: in the winter they are pleasantly mild, and in the summer bask in temperatures of around 25C (77F). The high interior can also be visited year Man in the old medina, Fez

40

Vegetable stall, Marrakesh

round, although it does get cold in winter. The southern desert areas experience a similar climate to the high interior, although summer temperatures are hot, with the average hovering around 40C (104F).

Time difference: GMT, with seasonal differences

Prices We offer trips to cater for a wide range of budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices for your trip to Morocco on our website, alternatively please call our specialists to discuss your plans.

Suggested itineraries Fez

Rabat

morocco Casablanca

Tangier

Meknes & Voloubilis

Asilah

Marrakesh Essaouira

Chefchaouen

morocco High Atlas Mountains

Essaouira

Marrakesh High Atlas Mountains Skoura

Rabat The Erg Chebbi

Casablanca

Fez Meknes & Voloubilis

morocco

Marrakesh, Mountains & Coast A great introduction to the country, this ten day trip lets you experience a diverse range of scenery and culture, with time to explore the medina of Marrakesh, to indulge in some walking in the High Atlas Mountains and relax in the pretty seaside town of Essaouira.

Grand Tour of Morocco

Northern Explorer

A comprehensive trip exploring the main highlights of Morocco, including the imperial cities of Marrakesh, Fez, Meknes and Rabat as well as some of the diverse scenery that the country has to offer.

Discover the highlights of northern Morocco including the cities of Fez, Rabat and Meknes; the Roman ruins at Voloubilis; relaxed medinas in Asilah and Chefchaouen; and coastal history in Tangier.

Day 1

Arrive in Casablanca and spend the night in the city.

Day 1

Arrive in Casablanca and spend a night here.

Day 2

Visit the impressive Hassan II Mosque, imperial Meknes and Roman Voloubilis en route to Fez.

Day 3

Discover Fez with the help of a private guide.

Day 1

Arrive in Marrakesh and transfer to your riad.

Day 2

Visit the Hassan II Mosque before a short drive to Rabat.

Day 2

A full day guided city tour of Marrakesh, ending as the sun sets over the magical Djemaa el Fna.

Day 3

Stop at Meknes and Voloubilis en route to your riad in the medina of Fez.

Day 3

A day at leisure to further explore the city, perhaps visiting the tranquil Majorelle Gardens.

Day 4

A guided, full day city tour of timeless Fez.

Day 4

Another day to explore the medina of Fez.

Day 4

Day 5

Make the long but scenic drive south to the desert and spend a night in a tent under the stars.

Day 5

Head west with a short drive to Essaouira along the Atlantic coast.

Travel north to the picturesque, laid-back town of Chefchaouen.

Day 5

Day 6

A day to explore bohemian Essaouira.

Day 6

Day 6

Another day to enjoy Essaouira’s picturesque medina and great seafood.

Journey the ‘route of 1,000 kasbahs’ to Skoura, stopping off at the rugged Todra Gorge.

A day to explore the charming medina and verdant countryside around Chefchaouen.

Day 7

Day 7

Head to Tangier for some time on Morocco’s northern coastline.

Travel to the strikingly different scenery of the High Atlas Mountains.

A day at leisure to relax in the palm groves of Skoura.

Day 8

Day 8

Drive the stunning Tizi-n-Tichka Pass into the High Atlas Mountains.

Day 9

Try a guided mountain trek or hike under your own steam from your accommodation.

Enjoy a guided tour of Tangier’s medina and other historic sites, before an afternoon roaming the beach.

Day 9

A short journey to Asilah’s relatively undiscovered and very pretty medina.

Day 10

Drive south along the coast to Rabat.

Day 7 Day 8

Day 9 Day 10

Take a guided hike or walk one of the many marked trails in the mountains.

Enjoy another walk or absorb the stunning views from your hotel.

Return to Marrakesh in time for your return flight.

Stay longer This itinerary could be extended by moving south and spending a night in the desert. Alternatively, if you are feeling energetic, spend longer in the High Atlas Mountains and trek to the summit of Mount Toubkal.

Day 10

Head for the coast, to Essaouira’s medina perched on the Atlantic.

Day 11

A day to wander the medina and stroll along the beach.

Day 11

Spend a day exploring the quaint medina of Morocco’s capital.

Day 12

Drive inland to Marrakesh.

Day 12

Day 13

A full day guided tour of the souqs, squares, palaces and gardens of Marrakesh.

Return to Casablanca in time for your return flight.

Day 14

One more day at leisure in Marrakesh.

Day 15

Transfer to the airport for your return flight.

Stay longer You could add a few days in vibrant Marrakesh, or explore the mountain scenery of the High Atlas Mountains.

Village in the Atlas Mountains

www.audleytravel.com/morocco • 01993 838 420 • Morocco

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Egypt F

or centuries, Egypt has been drawing visitors to marvel at the temples and funerary monuments of its ancient civilisation. Lining the banks of the Nile, they are crammed into the narrow strip of fertile land within the desert which makes up most of the country. From the iconic Pyramids of Giza to the staggering temples of Abu Simbel, there is an array of sites that form the core of Egypt’s appeal. There is more to Egypt than just the Ancient Egyptians though, and Cairo is the perfect example, where layer upon layer of medieval history compete for space with Fatimid citadels, Mamluke souqs, Ottoman mosques and the trappings of a modern city. Beyond the Nile, the Red Sea’s stunning coral reefs are fringed by sandy beaches which enjoy year-round sun. While many of Egypt’s historic attractions are still in situ, a wonderful selection of artefacts can also be found in the country’s museums. Chief amongst them is the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities in Cairo, which houses some of the most famous archaeological remains in the world.

Audley in Egypt

Alexandria Suez Canal

El Alamein

JORDAN

6 The Pyramids of Giza 2

CAIRO

Sinai Desert

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Siwa

SAUDI ARABIA

Dahab

Sharm El Sheikh

EGYPT

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Hurghada le

There is a good range of accommodation throughout Egypt, with some hotels offering great value, others providing a characterful place to stay while still others offering luxurious comfort. The country is blessed with some wonderful historic hotels, rich in charm and character. Many of these have played host to historical events or visiting dignitaries through the ages. Other properties tend to be international chain hotels that are very comfortable and have more facilities, but offer less in the way of character. Many hotels in Egypt are set near the Nile or the sea so we would suggest upgrading to rooms which make the most of the views, where possible, as the supplements are seldom prohibitive.

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Over the past few years we have continued to visit Egypt regularly to keep on top of the changes that have occurred. Our specialists have all recently revisited the main sites to gauge the atmosphere at each, and tested service levels throughout the country. We are not able to send people to certain areas in the country due to governmental advice but as this changes we will visit ourselves and get our knowledge up to speed as soon as possible. In our experience, Egypt has remained a friendly, hospitable country to visit throughout and continues to be so.

Nile cruises are the most popular way to visit Egypt’s greatest archaeological treasures around Luxor and Aswan, as these include guided excursions in small groups of up to 20, with professional, English speaking guides. We work with a range of boats on the Nile, or alternatively can provide a guide and driver to explore areas on a private basis. Certain dates, such as the holy month of Ramadan when most of the country fasts during daylight hours, may affect your travel plans. We will always ensure such factors are taken into account.

S a h a r a

D e s e r t

El Quseir

Valley of the Kings

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Red Sea

Luxor

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Edfu Kom Ombo 0

100 miles

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161 kilometres

Aswan

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Abu Simbel

1 The Nile Experience the tranquillity of cruising on this spectacular river and visiting the plethora of ancient sites along its banks.

See page 53 2 The Pyramids of Giza Gaze in awe at some of the world’s most famous ancient constructions.

See pages 46-47 3 Karnak Temple Just one of Ancient Egypt’s extraordinary monuments, Karnak is the largest ancient religious complex in the world.

See page 48

Lake Nasser

4 Abu Simbel Visit this iconic site, flanked by the desert and Lake Nasser, and marvel at the enormity of its painstaking move in the face of flooding.

See page 52 5 Valleys of the Kings

& Queens Exquisitely decorated tombs of pharaohs and queens in two separate valleys, with intricate frescoes and vivid colours.

See pages 48-49 6 Museum of

Egyptian Antiquities Admire the finds from Tutankhamun’s tomb in this excellent archaeological museum.

See page 44

7 Aswan Enjoy the scenic beauty of feluccas on the Nile at sunset or sample afternoon tea in the historic Old Cataract.

See page 50 8 The Red Sea Experience some of the fantastic diving opportunities here in the clear waters and stunning reefs.

See page 56 9 Cairo

Discover layers of history within this bustling modern city, and escape into the peace of the Coptic areas.

See pages 44-45

www.audleytravel.com/egypt • 01993 838 410 • Egypt

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Local man carrying bread, Cairo

Cairo Straddling the Nile, Cairo undoubtedly remains one of Africa’s greatest cities. It is very much the focus of Egypt’s political and cultural life, and first impressions are of urban sprawl, dusty streets and chaotic driving. Visitors who look further, however, are rewarded with a diverse and dramatic history and some relatively unknown attractions. Scratch beneath the surface and Cairo reveals wondrous secrets, beautiful mosques, an imposing citadel, labyrinthine bazaars, ancient Coptic churches and unexpected patches of green.

Carving the city in two is the timeless Nile, whose historic waters glide by pretty island suburbs. A constant throughout are its inhabitants – witty, friendly, blessed with inexhaustible patience and a sense of humour that few can fail to warm to. The one stop that must be included in any visit to Cairo is the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities, which contains a vast treasure trove handed down through the ages – the building itself is a jewel of the French colonial period in Egypt.

The Mena House Hotel, Cairo

The Mena House Hotel, Cairo

Islamic Cairo Islamic Cairo is a distinct quarter of the capital and is a wondrous place to explore on foot, discovering beautiful examples of Islamic architecture around each corner. The city walls are no longer intact and can be difficult to discern, but some of the gates remain. The grand Bab an-Nasr and Bab Zuweila gates at the northern and southern ends of the city show just how powerful and prosperous a place Cairo was in the medieval age. Elsewhere, tranquil madressahs, mausoleums and traditional family homes offer an insight into life in a Muslim city of the past, contrasting with the bustling streets filled with the cries of vendors and the aromas of spices, coffee, incense and perfumes.

There can be few hotels with a location to match The Mena House Hotel, nestled at the foot of the Giza Plateau directly beneath the looming hulk of the Great Pyramid. Built as a hunting lodge and base for exploring the pyramids for a 19 th-century Egyptian ruler, it was patronised in the early days by international royalty and high society, a trend that continued after its conversion to a hotel. Churchill and Roosevelt met here to plan the D-Day invasions, and there are suites in their names to commemorate the event. The hotel has a mix of classic 19 th-century Arabesque architecture and design, and more modern areas, complete with a pleasant garden and pool area, and 420 sumptuously decorated rooms.

Souq, Islamic Cairo

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Tombs of the Caliphs, Cairo

Fruit seller, Cairo

Tutankhamun’s funeral mask

Old Town, Cairo

The Museum of Egyptian Antiquities, Cairo

Sofitel Gezirah, Cairo

Sofitel Gezirah, Cairo

Coptic Cairo Coptic Cairo is one of the quietest areas of the capital, its calm streets and alleys a welcome relief from the hustle and bustle of central Cairo.

This is the oldest part of the city, and is home to ancient churches and Africa’s first mosque.

It is in Coptic Cairo that the Holy Family is reputed to have stayed during the flight to Egypt, as described in the Bible. The Hanging Church (Al-Mu’allaqa in Arabic) is one of the capital’s most iconic monuments, cherished by Christians and Muslims alike. It is not only a beautiful piece of architecture but also an extraordinary feat of engineering, built without foundations so it appears suspended in its position.

Located in a secluded spot on the southern tip of Gezirah Island, between the downtown and Giza areas of Cairo, the Sofitel is a quiet haven from the bustle of the city. Virtually surrounded on all sides by the Nile, the hotel also boasts fantastic views out to the Muqattam Hills, while the Giza Pyramids are visible on clear days.

Inside, the range of facilities is impressive, with a Middle Eastern restaurant and a French restaurant amongst other dining options.

There is a branch of the Buddha Bar within the hotel, or drinks can be taken on the floating Le Deck bar, with a Nile view on one side.

The Sofitel’s 433 rooms have a subtle decor and are well-equipped.

Coptic cave church, Cairo

Four Seasons at the First Residence, Cairo

Four Seasons at the First Residence, Cairo Located on the Giza side of Cairo, with views of the Nile, the Botanical Gardens and out towards the Giza Pyramids, the Four Seasons at the First Residence is a grand, elegant and luxurious hotel. As part of the prestigious First Residence complex, the hotel has direct access to sophisticated haute couture boutiques and galleries, yet the ancient history and culture of the city are just minutes away. The 269 rooms and suites are among the largest in the city and are designed with elegance and relaxation in mind, while the spa and wellness centre is the perfect place to unwind after a hard day’s sightseeing.

www.audleytravel.com/egypt • 01993 838 410 • Egypt

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The Pyramids of Giza

The Pyramids Nearly 4,000 years old yet built with incredible geometrical and astrological precision, it is easy to see why Egypt’s pyramids exact such a powerful and mystical appeal. These immense structures have enthralled travellers for centuries, their sheer scale, glittering treasures and enigmatic legends and curses giving them a timeless and momentous allure.

Visiting the Pyramids of Giza, Saqqara and Dashur The Egyptian pyramids are spread over three sites and in order to fully appreciate their splendour it is best to allow at least a full day to explore. Accompanied by a driver and a guide you can learn about the history of Giza, Saqqara and Dashur, and the pharaohs who ordered their construction. Each site offers a different insight into this breathtaking period in Egyptian history from the mastabas

The Great Sphinx, Giza

46

of Saqqara, a precursor of the pyramids, to the Great Pyramid of Cheops, widely considered to be Ancient Egypt’s most extraordinary construction.

Giza Instantly recognisable and eternally mysterious, the three giant pyramids at the Giza Necropolis are the most obvious landmarks on the plateau that spreads out from the edge of Giza city into the vast desert sands. Part of a much larger burial complex which covers several kilometres, the site also includes the enigmatic Sphinx, several cemeteries and a workers’ village.

Tens of thousands of workers toiled on the site between about 2670 BC and 2500 BC creating this series of monumental structures.

The Great Pyramid of Cheops is the oldest and largest of these and is the only one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World to survive. For over 3,800 years it remained the tallest manmade structure on Earth until it was surpassed by the central spire of Lincoln Cathedral in 1311. Near the Great Pyramid are the slightly smaller Khafre and Menkaure Pyramids, along with their associated temples, and the Great Sphinx.

Although scholars still debate its origins, the Sphinx is generally believed to depict the head of the Pharaoh Khafre.

A much studied period in Egyptian history, the more you delve into the construction of the pyramids, the more extraordinary they become, from the skill and precision of their construction to the basic logistics of moving such enormous quantities of stone. Generally two of the three great pyramids are open to visitors at any one time and although it is possible to go inside to walk along the lengthy passages to the burial chambers, it can be quite physically demanding and is not recommended for those who are claustrophobic.

Saqqara The vast burial ground of Saqqara is Egypt’s largest archaeological site and is the last resting place of the nobility of the ancient Egyptian capital Memphis. In use for over 3,500 years, most of its treasures were buried in the sand

The Great Pyramid of Cheops, Giza

The Red Pyramid, Dashur

until the 19 th century and excavations are still ongoing with new finds emerging regularly.

Numerous pyramids and temples, along with hundreds of smaller tombs, litter the site and visibly demonstrate the development of pyramid design throughout this period of Egyptian history.

There are a large number of mastabas here, simple rectangular tomb structures with a flat roof and sloping sides. These were the standard burial chambers in Ancient Egypt until master architect Imhotep began to build increasingly large mortuary mastabas for his Pharaoh Zoser.

From this he developed the idea of a stepped pyramid and his design for the Step Pyramid of Zoser, the most significant monument on this site, became the inspiration for the larger and more famous pyramids at Giza. The Step Pyramid predates the Great Pyramid of Cheops by about 75 years, and is surrounded by a vast funerary complex.

Dashur The pyramids at Dashur, a Royal necropolis on the west bank of the Nile, illustrate how pyramid design developed from Imhotep’s step-sided constructions to the true, smooth-sided tombs at Giza. Another large and impressive pyramid field, Dashur has two particularly notable examples, the Bent Pyramid and the Red Pyramid.

Pharaoh Sneferu, the father of Cheops and founder of the fourth dynasty, wished to build a fitting edifice to mark his reign and attempted to construct Egypt’s first true pyramid but due to unstable foundations and too steep an incline, the result was not as he anticipated.

The Bent Pyramid, as it is now known, has smooth sides that change angle abruptly halfway up the face of the pyramid and marks an important transitional phase in pyramid design. Today it is the only pyramid in Egypt to have most of its limestone cladding intact and offers a very rare insight into how all pyramids must have looked when first built. Sneferu was undeterred by the initial setback and embarked on a second colossal building project, this time in red limestone. The result was what is known as the Red Pyramid, the first true pyramid in Egypt. This vast construction is the third largest in the country, only exceeded in size by two of the pyramids at Giza.

An onsite museum explores the importance of Imhotep’s design and showcases the site’s best finds. Although within easy reach of Cairo, Saqqara is far less visited than the Giza Plateau and by comparison is quite a tranquil place that offers a fascinating insight into the progression of thought, architecture and construction techniques over this period.

The Step Pyramid, Saqqara

www.audleytravel.com/egypt • 01993 838 410 • Egypt

47

Karnak Temple, Luxor

The Temples of Luxor & Karnak The Temple of Luxor is located at the heart of modern Luxor, its ancient columns incongruously set against new roads, buildings and the paraphernalia of a 21st-century street. It was dedicated to the god Amun, his wife Mut and their son the moon god Khons. In common with all Egyptian religious complexes, it features chapels to the gods, a large hypostyle hall and a Avenue of Sphinxes, Karnak

Luxor On the site of historic Thebes, the one-time capital of Ancient Egypt, Luxor lies at the heart of the world’s greatest concentration of temples and tombs. The modern town is located on the east bank and surrounds the striking temples of Luxor and Karnak, while across the Nile lie the myriad tombs of the Valley of the Kings and the Valley of the Queens, including the legendary tomb of Tutankhamun. Here too is the necropolis of Thebes, where the Ancient Egyptians buried their dead. There are a number of impressive funerary temples here but it is still the richly carved tombs which draw people.

Among the temples and tombs are the villages in which the artisans lived, and were buried, providing an insight into the lives of ordinary Ancient Egyptians.

Sacred lake, Karnak Temple

48

colonnaded open courtyard. The Temple of Luxor was linked to that of Karnak by a street flanked by sphinxes, some of which can be seen on the edge of the temple complex. Karnak Temple, a little way outside Luxor, was built over a 120 year period, and so consequently lacks continuity in its design and style. The hypostyle hall of 134 columns is truly a special sight to behold and even visitors who have been to Karnak before cannot fail to be impressed once again by the sheer scale of what they see.

The Valley of the Kings The burial place of the great pharaohs of the New Kingdom (1550-1070 BC), the Theban necropolis on the west bank of the Nile at Luxor was in use for over 500 years and is home to 63 tombs, some of which contain up to 150 chambers. This extraordinary archaeological site is one of the most popular in Egypt, and the tombs are excellently preserved, although they are opened on a strict rotation in order to aid preservation work. Carved into the steep cliffs, the tombs head deep underground terminating in elaborate burial chambers decorated in vivid detail. The wall paintings were intended to aid the deceased in successfully navigating their way to the afterlife but they have also been instrumental in teaching archaeologists about this period of Egyptian history.

Excavations at the site are ongoing and evidence suggests there are many more tombs and temples yet to be discovered.

The most famous tomb in the Valley of the Kings is that of Tutankhamun, but those dedicated to Hatchepsut, Ramses II and Ramses III are also well preserved. Still more tombs with highly impressive wall paintings can be found in the Valley of the Queens and at the Tombs of the Nobles nearby.

Wall paintings, Tutankhamun’s tomb

Interior of Ramses IV’s tomb

Desert landscape, Valley of the Kings

Dendera & Abydos

Al Moudira, Luxor

Al Moudira, Luxor On the outskirts of Gezira, a small village on the west bank of Luxor, Al Moudira is an oasis of calm away from the town. This is one of the few hotels in Egypt with a truly Arab sense of style. Arcaded courtyards, colourful gardens and Oriental collectables combine to give the air of an Ottoman palace. The ochre and blue walls are inspired by Egyptian temples, and the floor tiles come from an ancient workshop. The 54 rooms are large, with wonderful high ceilings, traditional designs and antique furniture.

Sun deck, M/S Mayfair

M/S Mayfair An elegant boat, the M/S Mayfair has sophisticated decor and great facilities. It has a smoking room, sauna, steam room and massage room as well as a Jacuzzi and a pool (with pool bar) on the large main deck. Each of the 62 stylish cabins is luxuriously decorated with dark wooden furniture. Meals are served in the elegant ‘Nile Avenue’ restaurant. Breakfast is a buffet whilst lunch is a set menu and dinner is à la carte. The dishes are a modern fusion of contemporary and authentic cuisine prepared by internationally trained chefs.

Around 60 kilometres to the north of Luxor, along the Nile Valley, lies the temple complex of Dendera. This likely originated at the time of Cheops and the Old Kingdom, from 2613 to 2494 BC. However, most of what remains at the site now is Ptolemaic in origin (around 300 BC), and is one of the best preserved temple complexes in Egypt. The main temple here is the Hathor Temple, which is extraordinarily well preserved and still has excellent and vibrant paintings covering its ceiling. It was dedicated to the worship of Hathor, the goddess of joy and love, equated with the Greek Aphrodite. The goddess takes on bovine form, a possible link to a time when the Sahara was fertile grazing ground. At Dendera this is best seen in the column capitals, sculpted to form the goddess’ head, complete with long cow’s ears.

Other buildings were constructed much later, in Graeco-Roman times. Nearby, the temple of Seti I at Abydos, one of the oldest cities in Ancient Egypt, occupies an important place in the religious history of Pharaonic Egypt. By the end of the Old Kingdom its local god, Osiris, was the most prominent and popular of the Egyptian gods since he was the god of the afterlife. According to tradition, Osiris’ head was buried in Abydos.

Local man, Luxor

www.audleytravel.com/egypt • 01993 838 410 • Egypt

49

View over the Nile from Aswan

Edfu Temple

Aswan

A number of archaeological sites lie between Luxor and Aswan, among which is Edfu Temple.

On the site where, according to Ancient Egyptian legend, the god Horus defeated the god Seth, Ptolemy III Euergetes began construction of a temple dedicated to Horus.

Six pharaohs later it was complete, the second largest temple in Ancient Egypt after Karnak.

Its walls are carved with inscriptions which give insight into all manner of details of life during the Graeco-Roman period in Egypt, including language, myth and religion. The temple is well preserved due to the thickness of its walls.

Aswan is easily the prettiest town in Egypt and although not as rich in sites as Luxor, still has the picture-perfect Temple of Philae and the monumental High Dam. Feluccas sail on the winding Nile, past rounded boulders and palm-fringed islands. The steep western banks of the river lead into the desert, the horizon broken only by the faint outlines of the Monastery of St Simeon and Aga Khan’s Mausoleum. The town has a large Nubian population, some of whom were displaced from their original homeland following the creation of Lake Nasser. Today they live in villages on the Nile islands and their heritage and culture are celebrated in the fantastic Nubian Museum, one of the best museums in Egypt.

Kom Ombo Temple Another important site, Kom Ombo is a Ptolemaic temple. Unusually, it is dedicated to two different gods: Sobek, god of the Nile, normally represented by a crocodile; and Haroeris, who was an older manifestation of Horus. To reflect this dual dedication, the temple is essentially mirrored down a central line, with two entrances and perfectly symmetrical construction right down to the twin sanctuaries for the two gods. Adjoining the temple is a Crocodile Museum, which houses around 300 crocodile mummies found in the vicinity, presumably dedicated to Sobek.

Sonesta St George This relatively small boat has just 49 well-appointed cabins and 10 spacious suites. The boat has a large range of facilities and offers great comfort to its guests, with close attention paid to all the little details. All cabins come with large windows which offer fantastic views out to the Nile, and impressive bathrooms featuring Jacuzzi baths. Throughout, the decor is in a vintage French style, creating an air of decadence and luxury.

Sofitel Legend Old Cataract, Aswan

Sofitel Legend Old Cataract, Aswan

50

Sonesta St George

This is one of the most historic properties in Egypt.

Seemingly cut off from the town of Aswan itself, it faces out over the Nile to Elephantine Island and the sands of the Sahara beyond. The hotel itself is over a century old and its 220 rooms and suites have a wonderful mix of Arabesque and Edwardian style, with marble floors and delicate wooden screens. The restaurant at the front of the hotel is the best place from which to view the sunset.

Philae Temple, Aswan

Spices at a local market, Aswan

Local man, Aswan

Aswan High Dam

Philae Temple

Built in the 1960s with assistance from the Soviet Union, the Aswan High Dam replaced an earlier dam built by the British. It is a huge, impressive structure, constructed in order to prevent the annual devastation caused by floods, provide water for irrigation and create hydroelectricity which would enable the industrialisation of the country, a promise made by the government following a revolution by the people in 1952.

Since its completion, this area can produce two crops a year and there is a much-reduced likelihood of famine, although not without damage to the environment and the country’s cultural heritage. The lands of Nubia were all but entirely submerged following the creation of Lake Nasser, with the loss of entire villages.

Off to one side of the dam is a large monument, shaped like a lotus blossom, a memorial to Soviet-Egyptian co-operation.

As the water rose behind the first Aswan dam, the Temple of Philae became submerged for half of the year, and visitors would pass through the halls and colonnades by boat. With the construction of the High Dam, it became apparent that the temple would be completely submerged, along with several other key Nubian monuments. UNESCO launched a bold scheme to save these monuments and they were moved block by block to dry land. Philae was moved to an island, to preserve the special atmosphere of the temple. It was a centre for the cult of Isis, whose worship spread far and wide in the Roman Empire, and was Christianity’s principal rival between the 3rd and the 5th centuries. Today, after a short boat ride, visitors disembark into a colonnaded courtyard which leads into the temple itself, flanked by wonderfully carved pylons. Off to the side is the Kiosk of Trajan, a small compact temple with delightfully carved columns.

contains period furniture and is accessed via the promenade deck. Although there is no pool, there is a sun deck where you can relax. The Sudan is propelled by a hybrid diesel-steam engine, resulting in a quieter and more energyefficient journey. The original workings, such as the pistons and paddle wheels, can still be seen, and staff may allow you to visit the engine room.

Breakfasts and lunches are open buffet meals, whilst dinner is usually a set, four-course meal.

Oberoi Zahra The Oberoi Zahra sets the standards in luxury for those cruising the Nile. There are exhaustive facilities aboard, including a massage spa, swimming pool, gym, library, internet room and a theatre. The 25 luxury suites are tastefully appointed with timber floors and elegant interiors, with large windows offering panoramic views. The restaurant offers a daily changing menu with an à la carte service of first class cuisine, while the spa opens regularly to leave its visitors pampered and relaxed.

S/S Sudan Built in 1885 for King Fouad, this steamship has had many eminent guests over the years. Agatha Christie was inspired to write Death on the Nile after travelling on the boat and decades later, the S/S Sudan provided the set for many of the film’s scenes. With just 23 cabins, 5 of which are suites, there is an intimate air on board. Each cabin S/S Sudan

Oberoi Zahra

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Entrance to the Ramses II Great Temple, Abu Simbel

Abu Simbel The great Sun Temple of Abu Simbel epitomises the monumentalism of the New Kingdom during its imperial heyday, built under the orders of Ramses the Great (1304-1237 BC) on the edge of his empire. To impress his power and majesty on the Nubians, Ramses had four gigantic statues of himself hewn from the mountainside, so his unblinking stare confronted travellers as they entered Egypt from Sudan. These statues form

Traditional village on the edge of Lake Nasser

Lake Nasser Formed behind the massive High Dam at Aswan, Lake Nasser is the world’s largest reservoir, stretching almost 500 kilometres to the south.

The ancient temples of Abu Simbel were famously moved out of the reaches of the rising waters, as were many smaller examples now on the lake shore. Not as grand as the likes of Karnak, their setting is a large part of their appeal, framed by the shimmering lake and the vast desert beyond. Named after the second president of Egypt, Gamal Abdel Nasser who initiated the High Dam project, the lake actually continues into neighbouring Sudan, where it is known as Lake Nubia.

52

The Nile above the High Dam, Aswan

the façade of the larger of the two temples and have become one of Egypt’s iconic images.

It was the prospect of losing Abu Simbel to Lake Nasser that impelled UNESCO to organise the salvage of Nubian monuments in the 1960s. Abu Simbel was thus reassembled 210 metres behind (and 61 metres above) its original site, a false mountain being constructed to match the original setting. One of the best ways to appreciate the site is to visit as a day trip from Aswan, flying in and out for a tour of the temples.

The Nile between Luxor and Aswan

Nile cruises A cruise along the Nile is one of the most romantic ways to visit the monuments of Ancient Egypt, and given the number of visitors and scarcity of good hotels in the region, it is often the best way to do so. Most cruisers act as floating hotels, plying the route between Luxor and Aswan and stopping off at major sights en route. Boats generally stop to visit two sites per day, one in the morning and one in the afternoon, with passengers disembarking in groups of about 15 for guided tours.

The boats vary widely in terms of size and facilities, with smaller vessels catering for just 16 passengers and the largest boats hosting almost ten times that number. The size of the vessel generally determines the type of facilities on board with more hotel-like comfort on the larger vessels and simpler but more intimate surroundings on the smaller, more traditional boats. Comfortable seating on the decks to take in the Nile scenery, as well as a bar or lounge and a restaurant are standard features on all vessels we recommend. All cruises operate on a full board basis with buffet-style or à la carte meals and offer cabins with either double or twin beds, en suite bathrooms, air-conditioning and panoramic windows. Some may also have a fridge, TV or telephone.

Dahabiyya, Luxor

Routes Egypt’s greatest archaeological treasures are clustered along the Nile between Luxor and Aswan and cruisers sail this route in both directions. Most itineraries last between three and seven nights and in general the stops are the same no matter which boat you choose or which direction you travel. Aswan High Dam, Philae Temple, Edfu and Kom Ombo Temples, the Valley of the Kings, and Karnak Temple are always included in itineraries with additional stops at Dendera and Abydos on some of the longer trips. Smaller traditional boats, dahabiyyas, can moor in places where it is impossible for larger cruise boats to access and may stop at a number of smaller sites and islands as well.

Choosing a boat Cruising along the Nile is a popular option and there are a wide variety of vessels and itineraries to choose from. The large and luxurious cruisers resemble slick hotels and offer suites as standard as well as having plunge pools, small gyms and spa treatments available on board. If you would prefer something a little more intimate or with more local character, you could choose the S/S Sudan, a refurbished steamship, once owned by the Egyptian royal family and the inspiration for Agatha Christie’s Death on the Nile, or one of a fleet of traditional dahabiyyas, shallow bottomed boats with two sails and only a few cabins, which offer longer and more unusual itineraries.

Sand dunes on the banks of the Nile

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Tower of Saladin Citadel, Cairo

Sarcophagus of Queen Ahhotep, Cairo

Introduction to Egyptian history Ancient Egypt Pharaoh Menes united Upper and Lower Egypt in around 3100 BC and set the groundwork for what was to become one of the most developed civilisations of the ancient world.

Over the following 3,000 years a complex system of beliefs developed involving a pantheon of deities responsible for everything from the Earth’s creation to the annual floods.

The pharaoh was the gods’ representative and the profusion of temples is evidence of the huge importance of rites and rituals. During this period papyrus paper and the hieroglyphic system were developed and vivid recordings of events were essential to provide enduring evidence of a pharaoh’s greatness. Although these writings and wall paintings explain much about this ancient society, many mysteries

Statue of Pharaoh Akhenaten

54

remain and a good guidebook is necessary if you wish to make sense of the various dynasties, myths and legends of this period.

It’s impossible to see all the Ancient Egyptian monuments, but most visitors start at the Pyramids of Giza and the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities in Cairo, home to Tutankhamun’s spectacular funerary items and a good place to put the various periods of history into context.

From here, most people continue to the Valley of the Kings, Karnak Temple and Philae Temple, followed by a trip to the southern end of Lake Nasser to see the temples of Abu Simbel.

Christian Egypt As Ancient Egyptian civilisation began to decline, the Hellenists, Ptolemies and Romans all invaded. Each brought their own gods and religions but it is St Mark who is accredited with bringing Christianity to Egypt in around 60 AD. Unsatisfied with the rule of Emperor Nero, local people gradually began to convert but life was never easy for members of this Coptic Church and they suffered considerable persecution even after Emperor Constantine made Christianity the official religion of the empire. By 451 AD the Copts had had enough and established their own Patriarchate in Alexandria when all attempts to reconcile Coptic beliefs with those of Byzantium failed.

Ancient churches are found throughout Egypt but the unusual architecture of the Hanging Church in Cairo and the importance of the Church of St Sergius, where the Holy Family is said to have stayed during the flight to Egypt, make them undoubted highlights. Outside the capital, St Catherine’s Monastery in Sinai and St Paul’s Monastery in the eastern desert are amongst the most beautiful and isolated religious buildings in the world, although these have been off limits to visitors due to governmental advice.

Islamic Egypt In 642 AD the Arabs finally conquered Egypt and Islam became the dominant religion of the area. Since then a succession of Islamic dynasties and empires has left their mark on the country in the shape of beautiful mosques with soaring minarets. Cairo in particular showcases a glorious range of Islamic architecture with buildings such as the Ibn Tulun Mosque, the Al-Azhar Mosque and the Citadel of Saladin all well worth seeing. The city’s Islamic quarter can be a frenetic place however, and Muski Street and the bustling Khan El Khalili market are always thronged.

With the help of a good map it is possible to get away from the crowds and walk through some of the quieter areas between Bab Al-Nasr and Bab Al-Futuh to see beautiful mosques, madressahs and mausoleums, or around Bab Zuweila to see the tentmakers’ bazaar and the Ibn Tulun Mosque. Islam remains the official state religion and overflowing mosques and vibrant celebrations of religious festivals such as Ramadan and Eid are very much the norm.

El-Mursi Abul-Abbas Mosque, Alexandria

Relief from the tomb of Tutankhamun

Timeline of Egyptian history 3100 BC

Lower and Upper Egypt unified; hieroglyphic script developed.

2670-2500 BC

The Pyramids and Sphinx constructed.

1350-1323 BC

Rule of Akhenaten, Nefertiti, and Tutankhamun, a period of great wealth in Egypt.

1279-1213 BC

Rule of Ramses the Great; many temples and monuments built, including Abu Simbel.

Alexandria coast

Alexandria One of the great cities of antiquity, Alexandria is a cosmopolitan city on the Mediterranean coast with a much more relaxed vibe than Cairo.

Alexandria runs along the Mediterranean for 20 kilometres without ever venturing more than around five kilometres inland – a true waterfront city. It was a centre of learning, where the earliest developments in science and philosophy were achieved and where the world’s largest collection of books was to be found. Precious little of old Alexandria remains, just Pompey’s Pillar and the catacombs of Kom el-Shufaqa.

552 BC

Egypt becomes part of the Persian Empire.

332 BC

Alexander the Great conquers Egypt, founds Alexandria. The Ptolemaic era begins on his death in 323 BC.

30 BC

Cleopatra and Marc Anthony defeated, Egypt comes under Roman rule.

60 AD

St Mark brings Christianity to Egypt.

642 AD

Arab conquest of Egypt.

1517 AD

Egypt becomes part of the Ottoman Empire.

1859-69 AD

Suez Canal built.

Pompey’s Pillar, Alexandria

1914 AD

Egypt becomes a British protectorate.

El Alamein

1922 AD

Egypt gains independence.

1922 AD

Tutankhamun’s tomb discovered.

1953 AD

Egypt declared a republic.

1970 AD

Aswan High Dam completed, Lake Nasser formed.

2011 AD

Egypt’s first free elections.

2011 AD

The Arab Spring.

Heading along the coast from Alexandria to the west, there are a few more historic sites, including Abu Sir, known as Taposiris Magna in Classical times and renowned for its lighthouse.

The main reason to travel to this region is to visit El Alamein, about 100 kilometres west of Alexandria. The battles here marked a turning point in World War II, with considerable loss of life on both sides. The rows of headstones in the various war cemeteries bear silent witness to heroism in the Egyptian desert.

Local women, Alexandria waterfront

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Squirrelfish, the Red Sea

Hurghada & El Quseir Hurghada and El Quseir are both within a few hours’ drive of each other on the western Red Sea coast. The reefs in this area are among the most pristine to be found in the Red Sea, some of them accessible from the shore, and ideal for snorkelling. Hurghada is a popular resort but has a few secluded accommodation options with private beaches. El Quseir is a small, sleepy resort still relatively unaffected by tourism and retaining a charm all of its own. A refreshing alternative to some of Egypt’s more well-known beach resorts, El Quseir is perfect for those who want to combine relaxation and tranquillity with some of the best diving on the Red Sea.

Oberoi Sahl Hasheesh, Hurghada This was the first luxury, suite-only resort to open on the Red Sea coast and is still the most celebrated beach hotel in Egypt. It is an exclusive haven of sophisticated luxury and relaxation, based around a long stretch of private beach with beautiful white sand and panoramic views of the sea. The 102 Arabesque inspired suites are set in spacious, perfectly maintained grounds, forming a stunning array of arches, domes and columns. Each suite’s private walled courtyard guarantees privacy and peace, and upgraded suites have a private pool and dining veranda.

The recreational facilities are all that one would expect from a first-class resort, while the food in the two main restaurants is superb and the service throughout impeccable.

Marina, Hurghada

The Red Sea It is easy to incorporate a stay at the Red Sea into your Egyptian itinerary. This is a good way to unwind at the end of a long trip packed with sightseeing. From Luxor you can travel overland to the mainland Red Sea coast, or catch a flight to Sharm El Sheikh. There are miles of wonderful coastline, from the developed shores around Sharm El Sheikh to the exclusive resorts on the mainland coastline, north and south of Hurghada.

As well as the chance to relax on a beach, time can also be spent snorkelling and diving on the spectacular coral reefs or exploring nearby sights.

Harbour, Sharm El Sheikh

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Oberoi Sahl Hasheesh, Hurghada

Desert coast of Sharm El Sheikh

Masked butterflyfish, the Red Sea

Woman wearing an ornate burqa, Dahab

Hadaba cliff, Sharm El Sheikh

Sharm El Sheikh

Four Seasons Resort, Sharm El Sheikh

Located on the southern tip of the Sinai Peninsula, Sharm El Sheikh is in prime position to access the astounding underwater scenery of the Red Sea. Encompassing the two coves of Na’ama Bay and Sharm al-Maya, the resort town is an excellent place to base yourself to experience the wide variety of exotic fish and rare reefs of the area. For many years, Sharm El Sheikh, or just Sharm as it is more commonly known, has been a magnet for visitors seeking beaches and fantastic diving and snorkelling.

As a result, the town itself is very much geared towards the mass market, with the full array of shops, restaurants and nightclubs. However, many of the hotels are self-contained resorts and you need never experience downtown Sharm should you not want to.

Set amidst lush landscaping, and designed to resemble a traditional Bedouin hillside village, the resort has beautiful courtyards and cooling swimming pools connected by shady walkways.

The 136 rooms have wonderful Arabesque styling and superb furnishings, and many boast views over the Gulf of Aqaba. Guests can expect the intimate and personal levels of service that are the hallmark of Four Seasons hotels, along with unparalleled luxury and recreational facilities. As well as the excellent architecture, furnishings and facilities, the location of the hotel is also a real plus-point, far enough from the heart of Sharm to be exclusive, but close enough to give access to the restaurants, shops and diving centres.

Hyatt Regency, Sharm El Sheikh The deluxe Hyatt Regency resort is located just five minutes from Na’ama Bay. The resort is set in beautiful gardens and has a wide range of restaurants and recreational facilities, including a diving centre, tennis courts and a spa, among others. The 432 rooms, suites and villas are elegant and decorated in an Arabesque style and it is a lovely resort for rest, relaxation and pampering, while offering plenty of activities and sporting facilities.

Hyatt Regency, Sharm El Sheikh

Four Seasons Resort, Sharm El Sheikh

Dahab Dahab is one of the most relaxed towns in Egypt, and is easily accessed from Sharm El Sheikh airport. Located on the Red Sea coast, it is surrounded by mountains and stretches of beach.

Wind and waves have drawn the windsurfing community here and they have perpetuated the laid-back atmosphere that grew in the town during the sixties. A spell in Dahab offers the chance to unwind and get off the tourist trail a bit, whilst still being able to snorkel on the reefs.

Green turtle, the Red Sea

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jordan

israel

Amman

Dead Sea Cairo

Petra

El Quseir

Luxor egypt

Aswan

Jordan & Egypt Combined A 16 day itinerary of epic scope that allows you to explore the highlights of both Egypt and Jordan, including the Pyramids of Giza, Petra, Luxor and the Dead Sea.

Mosque of Muhammad Ali, Cairo

Tailoring your trip The itineraries shown are designed to give you a flavour of what is possible, and are routes that work particularly well. We can use these as a basis to plan your trip or can design a completely different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests. Please call one of our Egypt specialists to start planning your itinerary.

T 01993 838 410

Getting around With most of Egypt’s places of interest lying along the line of the Nile, travelling from one to another is straightforward. A Nile cruise is a comfortable and convenient way to visit the sites along the Nile – see our guide on page 53.

Sightseeing as part of your cruise is likely to be in a minibus or a coach, but when not on a cruise we can organise private sightseeing and transfers in air-conditioned vehicles. Given the large distances, your trip may involve a couple of domestic flights.

Prices We offer trips to cater for a wide range of budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices for your trip to Egypt on our website, alternatively please call our specialists to discuss your plans.

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When to go Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun

3

33 33 33

3

~

Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

~

~

33 33 33

Arrive in Amman.

Day 2

Drive north to explore the Roman ruins of Jerash with a local guide, before returning to explore Amman by yourself.

Day 3

Travel on the Kings’ Highway to Petra, stopping en route at Mount Nebo, Madaba and Kerak Castle.

Day 4

Embark on a full day guided tour of Petra.

Day 5

A second day to explore the wonders of Petra by yourself.

Day 6

Drive to the Dead Sea, enjoying a tour of the spectacular Wadi Rum on the way.

Day 7

Return to Amman airport to fly to Cairo.

Day 8

Enjoy a full day guided tour of the pyramids at Giza, Dashur and Saqqara.

Day 9

Explore Cairo Museum with your guide.

Day 10

Fly to Aswan then board your Nile cruise. Your visits today include the Philae Temple.

Day 11

Visit Kom Ombo & Edfu.

Day 12

Sail through the Esna Lock and explore Luxor and Karnak Temples.

Day 13

Visit the Valley of the Kings, before leaving your cruise and driving to El Quseir.

Day 14

A day at leisure to relax by the Red Sea.

Day 15

A further day at leisure.

Day 16

Return to Cairo for your international flight.

3

33 The best time to travel.

3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.

~

Day 1

Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year.

5 Travel is not recommended.

Egypt is seen as a winter destination, with most visitors arriving between October and April.

At this time of year, Cairo and Lower Egypt (the area towards the Mediterranean) are pleasantly cool, with average maximum temperatures around 20C (68F). Upper Egypt, around Aswan and Luxor, tends to be a few degrees warmer, but still very pleasant. There may be some rain in Lower Egypt but it is light and sporadic. The summer season from May to September is hot, especially in Upper Egypt, where temperatures can hit 50C (122F). The high temperatures are somewhat alleviated by very dry air and the air-conditioned vehicles and buildings. Combined with lower prices and far fewer visitors, this also makes summer a viable season for your trip, especially May and September which are not nearly as hot as June through to August. Please ask your specialist for further information about the best times to travel.

Time difference: GMT+2 hours

Suggested itineraries Alexandria Cairo

Cairo

Cairo

Hurghada

Hurghada

Luxor Edfu

Luxor Edfu

Kom Ombo

Aswan

Luxor Edfu

Kom Ombo

Kom Ombo Aswan

Aswan Abu Simbel

Highlights of Egypt

Pyramids, Nile & Beach

Grand Tour of Egypt

A fabulous first trip to Egypt, this itinerary will introduce you to all the main highlights of the country, taking in Cairo, Aswan and Luxor and including some relaxation time on your Nile cruise.

This itinerary offers a great introduction to Egypt, going to all the major archaeological sites and the bustling capital, whilst including an opportunity to relax beside the Red Sea.

Combining a Nile cruise with time in Cairo and Alexandria gives you plenty of scope to explore all the Ancient Egyptian sites as well as time to relax. You’ll have a great introduction to these cities, with the interesting pasts and fascinating presents.

Day 1

Arrive in Cairo.

Arrive in Cairo and transfer to your hotel.

Day 2

Visit the pyramids at Giza, Dashur and Saqqara.

Day 2

Visit the pyramids at Giza, Saqqara and Dashur.

Day 3

Explore the packed galleries of the Egyptian Museum in central Cairo.

Day 3

Discover the mosques of Islamic Cairo before heading to the Egyptian Museum.

Day 4

Fly from Cairo to Aswan.

Day 5

Visit the Temple of Philae and the Aswan High Dam.

Day 6

Travel from Aswan to Luxor, stopping to visit the temples of Kom Ombo and Edfu on your way.

Day 1

Day 4

Day 5

Fly from Cairo to Luxor and board your Nile cruise. In the afternoon, visit the Karnak and Luxor temples.

Explore the Valley of the Kings and other sites on the west bank of the Nile. The boat then begins its cruise to the south.

Day 6

Visit Edfu Temple in the morning before the boat sails on to Kom Ombo, where you visit the Temple of Sobek and Haroeris.

Day 7

The boat moves on to Aswan, where you visit the Temple of Philae and the Aswan High Dam.

Day 8

Disembark the boat and fly from Aswan back to Cairo, ready for your return flight.

Stay longer The itinerary can be extended with extra nights in Luxor and Aswan, so that you can explore the sites in more detail and include a trip to Abu Simbel.

Day 7

Day 8

Visit the sites of the west bank of the Nile, such as the Valley of the Kings and Hatchepsut’s Temple.

Explore the temples of Luxor and Karnak, before travelling to Hurghada on the Red Sea coast.

Days 9-10 Spend your time snorkelling and relaxing by the sea.

Day 11

Day 1

Arrive in Cairo.

Day 2

Explore the pyramids at Giza, Saqqara and Dashur.

Day 3

Visit the Egyptian Museum and Islamic Cairo.

Day 4

Explore Coptic Cairo.

Day 5

Travel to Alexandria.

Day 6

Spend the day visiting the sights of Alexandria.

Day 7

Return to Cairo and fly to Aswan.

Day 8

Travel to Abu Simbel for the day and visit the temples here.

Day 9

Board your Nile cruise at Aswan.

Visit the Temple of Philae and the Aswan High Dam.

Day 10

Sail to Kom Ombo and visit the Temple of Sobek and Haroeris.

Continue to Edfu and visit the Temple of Horus.

Day 11

Sail to Luxor and tour the west bank, including the Valley of Kings.

Day 12

Visit Karnak and Luxor temples.

Day 13

Drive to the Red Sea for some relaxation time.

Fly back to Cairo, ready for your return flight.

Stay longer The trip could be extended with extra nights in Cairo to explore its Coptic or Islamic areas, or alternatively by staying longer in Aswan and Luxor, so that you can visit more of the Ancient Egyptian sites.

Days 14-16 Relax by the Red Sea or snorkel amid its amazing underwater life.

Day 17

Aswan High Dam, Lake Nasser

The Pyramids of Giza

Fly to Cairo for your return flight home.

Local market, Aswan

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Jordan A

crossroads between Europe, Africa and Asia, Jordan suffered a tide of invaders over the years from Greeks and Romans to Nabateans, Byzantines, Arabs and Crusaders.

In their wake they left magnificent cities, fortified castles, ornate churches and desert citadels.

Archaeological sites from every period scatter the country but the undoubted highlight is Petra, one of the world’s most magical lost cities. This Nabatean wonder is Jordan’s most famous sight but by no means its only attraction. The towering cliffs, deep-red sands and dramatic rock formations of Wadi Rum are truly spectacular, while nearby, the sparkling turquoise waters of the Gulf of Aqaba shelter some fine Red Sea coral reefs. Further north the other-worldly atmosphere of the Dead Sea, the lowest point on Earth, is another big draw. Although Jordan’s capital, Amman, is a thoroughly modern place, a certain timelessness remains across the country with robed men herding sheep along rural roads and a sense of warm hospitality deeply ingrained into Jordanian culture. Stop to chat at a roadside stall and you may well find yourself invited for a glass of mint tea.

Audley in Jordan IRAQ

Umm Qais River Jord an

The Dead Sea

Ajloun Jerash

3

AMMAN

Allenby Bridge

Azraq Wetlands

4 5

Kerak Castle

ISRAEL

Dana Nature Reserve

s’ Highwa y

Madaba Dead Sea

Accommodation There is an abundance of good quality international hotels across Jordan with smart, contemporary decor. If you’re looking for something with more local character however, it can be harder to find. On every visit our specialists aim to seek out a variety of accommodation options across the country, from tented Bedouin camps to local guesthouses and ecolodges, such as the excellent Feynan Eco-Lodge in the Dana Nature Reserve, to give you the opportunity to experience something a little different should you wish. Jordan’s nature reserves offer a choice of such accommodation, and although it tends to be quite rustic, it offers a far more authentic experience with excellent locally-sourced food, and staff from surrounding villages who offer a charismatic Jordanian welcome.

SYRIA

Ajloun Forest Reserve

0

25 miles

0

40 kilometres

King

Stable, orderly and simple to navigate, Jordan makes a great introduction to the Middle East. We can arrange trips which include all the highlights of the country or ones which focus on your interests, be they in Jordan’s fascinating historical sites or its exceptional natural beauty. We can also organise experiences which will help you to learn more of the local culture, such as making coffee with the Bedouin in Dana Nature Reserve, a cookery course in Petra or stargazing from an ecolodge.

Our specialists can also help you to combine your time in Jordan with a trip across the border into Israel, or even with the ancient wonders of Egypt.

JORDAN

Petra

1 2

Wadi Rum

Aqaba

SAUDI ARABIA

Red Sea

4 The Dead Sea

1 Petra This iconic Nabatean city, revealed through a chink in a winding, narrow gorge, is simply breathtaking.

See pages 66-67

3 Jerash Well-preserved and architecturally unique, this Roman town is famous for its colonnaded oval plaza.

See page 63

2 Wadi Rum A spectacular desert landscape where monumental rock formations tower over a sea of red sand.

See page 68

The Treasury, Petra

A novel end to a trip, the Dead Sea offers luxurious hotels and health treatments as well as its famously salty water.

See page 71 5 Crusader-era castles Imposing castles built during the time of the Crusades, Ajloun, Kerak and Shawbak are still magnificent sights today.

See pages 64-65

oyal Society for the R Conservation of Nature (RSCN) reserves This series of reserves protect some of the region’s most beautiful landscapes and rarest flora and fauna.

See page 69

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Roman ruins, Jerash

Four Seasons Amman

Fruit stall, Amman

Amman A vibrant, modern city littered with the evidence of a long and complex history, Amman is an attractive place set across a series of hills. Smart hotels and galleries sit side-by-side with artists’ workshops and traditional coffee shops in the downtown area which grew up around a 6,000-seat Roman theatre carved into the hillside. Above it lies the Citadel, a cluster of structures including the monumental Temple of Hercules, a ruined Byzantine church and the Umayyad Palace. Here too is the Jordanian Archaeological Museum which houses artefacts from the country’s many archaeological sites, including everyday materials such as pottery and tools, as well as displays on the Dead Sea Scrolls.

The Jordan Museum is another good place to get a comprehensive overview of the country’s cultural heritage, or for an insight into the former king’s love of cars, a trip to the Royal Automobile Museum should suffice.

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A grand, elegant and luxurious hotel, the Four Seasons Amman is located to the west of the main downtown area of the city, and is considered the best five star choice here. The 193 rooms and suites are large and have been designed with elegance and relaxation in mind.

There are also good options for families, with plenty of interconnecting accommodation available. There is a choice of restaurants and a quiet atmosphere throughout the hotel, which is kept decorated with the traditional Four Seasons flowers.

InterContinental, Amman

InterContinental, Amman Excellently located for exploring Amman, the InterContinental is close to the downtown area and Rainbow Street, which has a wide choice of restaurants and cafes. The 440 rooms are modern and stylishly decorated, and the hotel has an excellent selection of facilities. These include an indoor and an outdoor pool, a well-equipped spa and five restaurants serving a variety of cuisines including Lebanese, Mexican and Indian.

Four Seasons, Amman

Woman in Amman

Temple of Hercules, Amman

Temple of Zeus, Jerash

Umayyad Palace, Amman

Jerash & the north

Desert castles

A Graeco-Roman confederation of ten cities, the Decapolis straddled what is now Jordan and Syria, and Jerash is its best preserved member.

At its heart is a dramatic colonnaded public space from where cobbled, arcaded streets rutted with the tracks of Roman cartwheels lead past shopfronts and bathhouses to an impressive theatre. At the edge of Jerash is the Temple of Artemis with its exquisitely carved Corinthian capitols, while further north is Umm Qais, another of the Decapolis cities. Sitting on a ridge overlooking the Sea of Galilee and the Jordan Valley, Umm Qais is an atmospheric spot offering incredible views. Along with the Roman remains here, are the remnants of a late 19 th-century Ottoman village.

A series of fortified buildings constructed in the 7th and 8th centuries stretch east from Amman into the desert. Originally Umayyad hunting lodges or caravanserais, they are incredibly atmospheric places, easily reached from Amman on a half day trip. One of the most impressive is Qasr Al-Amra, the bathhouse of what was once a much larger complex. Inside, well-preserved frescoes depict everything from the caliph to maps of the heavens and scantily-clad women, most unusual in an early Islamic building. Further east, Qasr Azraq is a large fortress built to guard the Roman border, and was later used by the Byzantines and a succession of Islamic dynasties.

Its most famous inhabitant however, was Lawrence of Arabia, who made his headquarters here during the Arab Revolt. Some of Jordan’s nature reserves can easily be combined with a visit to the castles on a full day trip from Amman.

Temple of Artemis, Jerash

Spices and herbs, Amman market

Ajloun Castle An important strategic fortress, helping to control the area between Damascus and Cairo, and one of the few castles built to defend against the Crusaders, Ajloun is remarkably well preserved and a prime example of Islamic military architecture of the 12th and 13th centuries. The castle occupies a commanding position on Jebel Auf with views over the countryside. In its heyday it had seven towers and was enclosed by a dry moat 15 metres deep.

Inside it is a maze of interlinking rooms and tunnels. Although the castle was destroyed on several occasions by attacking forces and earthquakes, it was rebuilt each time and restoration work is ongoing. Nearby is the RSCN Ajloun Forest Reserve which protects the impressive biodiversity of the open woodlands in the area. For more information see page 69.

Qasr Azraq

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The Kings’ Highway

The Kings’ Highway A 5,000-year-old trade route through dramatic scenery along the edge of the Great Rift Valley, the Kings’ Highway was the primary link between Arabia and the Levant for centuries.

Unsurprisingly, it is lined with sites of historic interest, from biblical locations to ancient towns and Crusader castles. Here too, you’ll find wonderful hiking in the region’s nature reserves and get an authentic glimpse into rural life in Jordan as you travel the winding switchbacks on this scenic trail. Some of these sights are within easy access of the modern road between Amman and Petra and could be visited en route, but more time will be needed to visit them all.

Madaba The laid-back town of Madaba, at the northern end of the Kings’ Highway, was first mentioned in the Old Testament and its charming narrow streets are lined with stone houses dating back centuries. The town has a strong Christian heritage and its open-air archaeological park encompasses several ancient churches, however, Madaba is most famous for its vibrant Byzantine-era mosaics. These include a map of the Holy Land which dates from the 6th century in the Basilica of St George, and the intricate mosaics at the Church of the Apostles.

Madaba is best explored on a walking tour through its quiet streets.

Mount Nebo This isolated mountain is one of Jordan’s most sacred spots and has special significance for Jews, Christians and Muslims. It was here that Moses finally saw the Promised Land and there has been a church on its summit since 393 AD. The sweeping views across the Jordan Valley and the Dead Sea include a glimpse of Jericho and Jerusalem in the distance and are reason enough to visit, but the church and monastery here, although much altered over the years, also house some of Jordan’s best mosaics.

Dating back about 1,500 years, they display vivid scenes including a detailed hunting and herding mosaic depicting a variety of wildlife.

The city mosque, Madaba

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Mosaic map, St George’s Church, Madaba

Mukawir A remote, mountain-top fortress overlooking the Dead Sea, Mukawir was where Herod chose to build his palace and where Salome is said to have danced for the head of John the Baptist. Rebels took control of the palace during the First Jewish Revolt and it was later besieged by the Romans; the outline of their camps and siege ramp can still be seen.

Although the palace was largely destroyed, a series of columns remain upright against the clear skies and give the site an eerily beautiful atmosphere. Mukawir is just a short drive off the Kings’ Highway and visitors who make the steep climb to the summit are rewarded with remarkable views over the surrounding countryside.

Amman Mt Nebo

JERUSALEM

Madaba Mukawir

Dead Sea

Wadi Mujib JORDAN

Kerak Castle

King

Lot’s Cave

s’ Highway

ISRAEL

Dana Nature Reserve Shawbak Castle

Petra

Kerak Castle Syria Iraq

i om t rs mi s

Egypt

Jordan Kerak Castle Saudi Perched on theArabia top of a steep-sided rocky outcrop, this dramatic 12th-century castle made the most of its natural defensive position and commands excellent views over the surrounding wadi (valley). Kerak played an important strategic role for many years and as it was besieged and conquered, it was partly destroyed, rebuilt and enlarged on several occasions. Today it is a highlight of the Kings’ Highway and visitors cross a wooden footbridge over the deep moat to reach the vaulted passageways which lead through the castle on numerous levels to living quarters, barracks, dungeons, a kitchen, chapel and a lofty keep. A small museum offers a good explanation of the castle’s history and its role in defending this ancient trade route.

Shawbak Castle Like Kerak, Shawbak occupies a dramatic hilltop location with excellent views, but it is a far wilder and more remote place, its ruins less complete and only partly restored. Few visitors make it here and you will often have the place to yourself, which gives Shawbak a hauntingly beautiful quality. Built in 1155, its siege defences were fortified by the Mamluks in the 14th century when curtain walls, defensive towers and a glacis (steep artificial slope) were added.

Inside you will discover 13th-century inscriptions, ornate stonework, crumbling churches, Ottoman cottages and the remains of an Ayyubid palace. The castle features many long and dark secret passageways: bring a torch to explore in detail but heed warning signs as the structure of these tunnels is unsound in places.

Lot’s Cave After the destruction of Sodom and Gomorrah the prophet Lot fled and is said to have settled in this cave on a dramatic hilltop south of the Dead Sea. The views of the surrounding countryside are breathtaking and well worth the 300-step climb to the summit. The cave was a place of pilgrimage for many years, and a small 7th-century church protects the entrance and contains inscriptions mentioning Lot as well as a series of restored Byzantine-era mosaics.

A clever design also allowed access for Jewish and Muslim pilgrims without crossing the church threshold. Early Bronze Age artefacts were discovered in the cave, adding further credence to the legend of Lot.

Shawbak Castle

www.audleytravel.com/jordan • 01993 838 415 • Jordan

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The Monastery, Petra

Petra The astounding 3rd-century sandstone city of Petra is Jordan’s most popular destination, its spectacular location and exquisitely carved buildings lending it a magical quality. This hidden city is approached along the 1.2 kilometre long Siq, a steep-sided narrow canyon that only reveals its glories at the very last minute.

Nothing prepares you for your first sight of the dramatic Treasury, the iconic introduction to Petra’s splendour. An enormously wealthy and cosmopolitan town in its heyday, Petra was built by the Nabateans who controlled the trade route between Damascus and Arabia and taxed all who passed by.

Petra’s domination at the centre of this region continued for centuries until trade routes began to change and the city declined in importance.

It is thought that a series of earthquakes finally forced the city to be abandoned and its location remained a closely guarded secret of the local Bedouin for centuries. The city was finally rediscovered in 1812 by John Louis Burckhardt who befriended local tribes and tricked his way into the site. Today, the city’s tombs and temples, ancient palaces and colonnaded streets are every bit as impressive as their screen reputation suggests.

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Visiting Petra The Petra Archaeological Park covers over 264 square kilometres and although the main highlights are clustered together, the sheer number of sights and the time it takes to explore them warrants two full days here.

You can of course spend less time, staying two nights and allowing just one long day to explore, but such is Petra’s allure that you may well find yourself planning a return trip to take in the sights you missed.

Whatever you decide, sturdy walking shoes and plenty of water are essential as paths are rough in places and buildings are located on different levels. The site is busy all year round, even in the sweltering summer months, so there is no particularly quiet time of year or day to visit. The best advice is to start early in the day or take an alternative route into the site to avoid the largest of the crowds.

The Treasury and the Monastery Entering along the magical Siq the first building you encounter is the Treasury, its elegant façade no less impressive today than it would have been 2,000 years ago.

It is a masterpiece of design and engineering and has no foundations and

no external support as it was carved in situ from the red sandstone. Its sheer scale and dramatic position make it Petra’s most iconic edifice, but its original function is still unknown. Thought to have been a temple-tomb, it is protected by the surrounding canyon walls and is incredibly well preserved with carvings on the façade showing Nabatean, Greek and Egyptian gods, lions and eagles.

At the far side of the ancient city lies a quieter but equally impressive monument, the Monastery. Although less ornate than the Treasury, it is far larger and its peaceful location and spectacular setting means it is well worth the climb to get here.

Crosses inscribed inside the building gave rise to its name and may indicate it was used as a church in Byzantine times but it originally functioned as a Nabatean temple and dates from the 3rd century.

The Monastery is reached along an old ceremonial route of about 800 steps: climb up here in the afternoon when the path is in shade and you will be rewarded with a view of this massive structure bathed in warm light as well as panoramic views over the entire Petra basin and Wadi Araba.

The Monastery, Petra

The Siq, Petra

The Treasury, Petra

Bedouin man, Little Petra

Little Petra

Petra Guesthouse Boasting an enviable location, the Petra Guesthouse offers excellent value for money.

It is just a few seconds’ walk from the entrance to the site, and enjoys wonderful views of the sandstone mountains that hide the lost city.

The 72 rooms and chalets are simple but comfortably furnished, and although the decor can seem a little functional, the guesthouse does have a certain laid-back charm. Within the hotel is the Cave Bar, cut out of an ancient cave and probably Petra’s best bet for a quiet drink or some local entertainment.

Petra Guesthouse, Petra

Petra Marriott Hotel The Petra Marriott’s location on the hills above Petra makes this hotel a quiet, comfortable retreat after your visit to the Rose Red City. The Marriott has 100 guest rooms, an outdoor pool and a choice of restaurants including an Italian and a local Arabic dining option. The views of the surrounding terrain are superb, particularly at sunset, when the valleys and hills come alive with spectacular colours.

Less visited and in many ways more atmospheric than Petra, Siq al-Barid, or Little Petra as it has become known, is set in a short, steep-sided gorge north of the main site entrance. Although the Nabatean ruins here are smaller and less impressive, they are tightly packed with few gaps between carved façades and rock cut stairs leading off in every direction. It is possible to hike through the mountains to the main site, a distance of about 16 kilometres, for an alternative route into Petra.

Petra Kitchen An evening of cooking and socialising is on offer at Petra Kitchen, a novel initiative that brings visitors and Jordanians together to prepare a typical meal. With local cooks on hand to introduce you to unfamiliar ingredients and teach you about traditional cooking techniques and dishes, it is a fun and interesting way to improve your culinary skills and get an insight into everyday life.

Petra Marriott Hotel

Little Petra

www.audleytravel.com/jordan • 01993 838 415 • Jordan

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Wadi Rum

Wadi Rum Weathered over millennia into dramatic towers, natural bridges and steep-sided canyons, the red sandstone landscapes of Wadi Rum are some of the most extraordinary on Earth. Although made famous in modern times by Lawrence of Arabia, this region has long been inhabited and ancient Thamudic inscriptions, carved in the first millennium BC, can be found in the cooler canyons. The majestic desert landscape here is dominated by monolithic rocky outcrops which change colour throughout the day, but to truly experience Wadi Rum it is necessary to witness a spectacular desert sunset and the clear night skies where thousands of stars twinkle overhead.

Isolated from the lights and noise of civilisation, it is a unique and unforgettable experience.

The Bedouin Pre-Islamic people who were converted by the Prophet Mohammed, these nomadic desert-dwellers of the Middle East are a proud tribal group. They were among the first converts to Islam and religion still plays an important part in Bedouin life.

Inside a Bedouin tent, Wadi Rum

Renowned for their rich cultural traditions, Bedouin music, poetry and dance forms thrive despite the fact that few tribal groups still live a nomadic herding lifestyle.

One of the groups which does is the Huweitat who live in traditional black goat-hair tents in Wadi Rum. Once outside the main village of Rum you may encounter the local Bedouin who are also famous for their hospitality. Another facet of traditional Bedouin culture is a strict honour system which includes protection of property and the honour of the tribe. The Huweitat fought bravely during the Arab Revolt from 1916 to 1918 and still derive great pride from their role in the struggle against the Ottoman Empire.

Sun City Camp, Wadi Rum Located just within the boundary of the spectacular Wadi Rum landscape is the Sun City Camp. Each of the 30 raised wooden en suite chalets is covered with a Bedouin tent, providing an authentic appearance. Every evening, a traditional Bedouin meal is served in the large, colourful and carpeted dining area after sunset, and once the sun has truly set the starry sky here is exceptional, best enjoyed while relaxing by the campfire.

Bedouin man, Wadi Rum

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Wild flower, Ajloun Forest Reserve

Dana Nature Reserve

Sinai rosefinch, Dana Nature Reserve

Dana Nature Reserve & the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature The Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature (RSCN) aims to protect the biodiversity of Jordan’s natural flora and fauna, and aid the socio-economic development of rural communities. It has established six nature reserves at Wadi Dana, Wadi Mujib, Ajloun, Dibeen, Shaumari and Azraq.

Between these nature reserves is a wide variety of landscapes, wildlife and geology, each now protected by the RSCN. Visiting these reserves is an excellent way of experiencing something a little out of the ordinary in Jordan, and seeing some more of Jordan’s astonishing landscape. It is possible to stay in each of these reserves and enjoy activities such as walking or birdwatching, opportunities for which are outstanding, particularly in Dana for the former, and Azraq for the latter.

Wadi Feynan, Dana Nature Reserve

Dana Nature Reserve Jordan’s largest reserve covers a system of wadis along the Great Rift Valley, and is home to a staggering amount of wildlife, some awe-inspiring landscapes, and thousands of years of history, due to the attractions of the fertile soil here making the area a good place to settle. There are a number of different walks to do in the reserve, ranging from one to two hour rambles to full day hikes which showcase the area’s geological diversity, from striking canyons to lush valleys. There are also trails which are excellent for the chance to spot one of Dana’s many rare bird species, such as the lesser kestrel and Syrian serin.

Feynan Eco-lodge, Dana Nature Reserve Located in the Wadi Feynan end of the nature reserve, this ecolodge is a unique place to stay in Jordan, built in harmony with its surroundings and respecting the environment in general. Wonderfully remote and set amidst stark, rocky desert, the lodge has comfortable, spacious rooms and is cleverly designed to avoid impacting the ecology of the area. All materials used are locally sourced and power is generated by solar panels. In the evenings the lodge is lit by candles, and the rooftop terrace is an extraordinary place to stargaze. The lodge has its own telescope and its staff are all knowledgeable about constellations.

Azraq Wetland Reserve The Azraq Wetlands are located to the east of Amman. Threatened by the delicate state of the water supply in the region, the wetlands have reduced significantly since the establishment of the reserve in 1978, with the water now being supplied artificially.

Nevertheless, the reserve is a good spot for birdwatching, especially for migratory species including the hoopoe lark, Cetti’s warbler, the desert finch and the marsh harrier. You can visit the Azraq Wetlands as a day trip from Amman, which can be combined with a visit to the desert castles.

Ajloun Forest Reserve Located in the northwest of Jordan, the Ajloun Forest Reserve consists of 13 square kilometres of open woodland with an impressive biodiversity. Common trees in the forest include evergreen oak, pine, carob and wild pistachio, while in spring the forest floor is carpeted with flowers including rare and beautiful orchids, anemones and rock roses.

There are a number of trails within the Ajloun Reserve, and the nearby Ajloun Castle can be included in a visit here.

Feynan Eco-lodge, Dana Nature Reserve

www.audleytravel.com/jordan • 01993 838 415 • Jordan

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Scuba diver and coral reef, the Red Sea

Aqaba

Movenpick Tala Bay, Aqaba

Jordan has just a short stretch of coastline and Aqaba is both the country’s only port and its only coastal resort. Ringed by mountains and lapped by the warm waters of the Red Sea, it is a popular spot, busy throughout the year and especially so in the autumn, winter and spring when temperatures here are far warmer than the rest of the country. Snorkelling and diving on the nearby Red Sea reefs is popular with great visibility and numerous wrecks. Divers often head to the Tala Bay resort which is quieter than the central hotels, as these often host lively local weddings.

Movenpick Tala Bay, Aqaba

Around 15 minutes by car from the centre of Aqaba, the Movenpick Tala Bay benefits from a great location right on the beach. The hotel is set in extensive grounds which are well maintained with many native plants and flowers, giving a colourful aspect, especially in the spring and summer. The lobby and other public areas are bright and airy, and the Zara Spa is a relaxing retreat in a quieter area of the hotel. With a number of pools, a decent beach and a wide range of restaurants and cafes to choose from, the Movenpick is an excellent choice for those seeking some relaxation after all the sightseeing that a trip to Jordan usually involves.

Kempinski Aqaba, Aqaba

Bedouin man, Aqaba

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Sleek, stylish and sophisticated, the Kempinski is set on a private beach overlooking the Red Sea, close to the centre of Aqaba. It is a large hotel with excellent facilities and the 200 bright, spacious rooms and suites are bathed in light from huge windows. Minimalist in style and fashionably monochrome white, they offer plenty of high-tech amenities as well as private balconies with views over the sea. The hotel has a choice of restaurants serving everything from fresh seafood to Pacific Rim cuisine and al fresco pizza.

There is also a large spa with panoramic views, a fitness centre, glorious outdoor pool and plenty of water sports.

Harbour, Aqaba

Relaxing in the Dead Sea

Salt on the shore, the Dead Sea

Kempinski Ishtar Dead Sea

The Dead Sea

The Marriott, the Dead Sea

Kempinski Ishtar Dead Sea

Local men in Aqaba

The Dead Sea Filling the lowest point of the Great Rift Valley and, at 420 metres below sea level, the lowest point on Earth, the Dead Sea gets its name from its high salinity levels which are too harsh to support any kind of marine life. Hot and sunny year round, water evaporates off the surface at high rates causing glistening crystalline formations on the shoreline and creating the mineral-rich waters that have attracted people for millennia.

The setting too is beautiful, with a backdrop of harsh, unforgiving cliffs, and an atmospheric haze which dampens sound so that it is eerily quiet here. Bobbing almost weightless on the surface of the water is a novel experience, though many visitors come to seek a cure for health problems and the hotels here all have their own spas or medical centres. The Dead Sea Panorama Complex, a museum administered by the RSCN, is set in the hills and has excellent displays on the history and ecology of the Dead Sea.

Set in manicured gardens with a host of freshwater pools, waterfalls and lagoons, the Kempinski Ishtar is a large, modern hotel with a variety of 345 rooms, suites and villas. Most offer private balconies overlooking the sea and all are decorated in an uncluttered, contemporary style with natural wood and stone and subtle local touches. As you would expect in a hotel this size, the facilities are excellent with a choice of restaurants serving Arabic, Thai and Italian cuisine in beautiful settings. The vast spa offers a hydro pool, a Dead Sea pool and a Moroccan hammam as well as a wide variety of treatments.

Outside there’s a large swimming pool, a beautiful beach and enough space to always find a quiet spot.

The Marriott, the Dead Sea Located 400 metres below sea level, this is one of the most unique locations of any Marriott in the world. The spa and relaxation facilities here are superb; pools are splashed with gentle fountains, and attractive wooden bridges cross the cool water. The public areas of the hotel have a traditional feel to them with wooden mashrabiya screens, Ottoman-style furnishings and imaginative use of greenery. The 250 rooms and suites are very comfortable, with all the conveniences you would expect from a luxury hotel.

The Movenpick Resort & Spa, the Dead Sea This large hotel is constructed in the style of a traditional village and set in a lush valley running down to the shores of the Dead Sea. Built with rough-dressed local stone, the 346 rooms are spread across multiple buildings and vary widely in type and size. They are decorated in a simple but comfortable style with natural colour schemes and views of the gardens or sea. The hotel has nine restaurants and bars, serving everything from al fresco meals to buffets and barbecues.

There’s also a large infinity swimming pool with uninterrupted views across the glassy surface of the Dead Sea, and a sandy beach. The spa here has 31 treatment rooms and a specialist team offering everything from massage and mud wraps to hydro and electrotherapy treatments.

The Movenpick Resort & Spa, the Dead Sea

www.audleytravel.com/jordan • 01993 838 415 • Jordan

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Local man in the market, Amman

When to go

Tailoring your trip The itineraries shown are designed to give you a flavour of what is possible, and are routes that work particularly well. We can use these as a basis to plan your trip or can design a completely different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests. Please call one of our Jordan specialists to start planning your itinerary.

T 01993 838 415

Temple of Hercules, Amman Citadel

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Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun

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~

33 33 33

3

Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

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~

33 33 33

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33 The best time to travel.

3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.

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Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year.

5 Travel is not recommended.

Burdah arch, Wadi Rum

Getting around With a private driver to accompany you throughout your trip and local guides at Petra and Jerash you can comfortably see Jordan’s highlights in a week. A slightly longer trip will give you the option of visiting further archaeological sites as well as taking the time to walk in the nature reserves and relax by the Red Sea or the Dead Sea. Jordan has an excellent road network and the length of the country can be covered in a matter of hours. Most of your travelling will be on these roads in private air-conditioned vehicles, although journeys tend to be long due to the sheer number of sites to visit along the way. Visits to Jordan can easily be combined with other countries within the region. Crossing into Israel is done by venturing across the Allenby Bridge where you can visit Jerusalem, the world’s most important religious city. Alternatively, you can fly to Cairo for a trip around Egypt and its wonderful ancient monuments.

Jordan has a typically Middle Eastern climate.

Spring and autumn are the best times to travel as the days are warm, with temperatures around 27C (81F), with cool nights. Winters can be surprisingly cold and wet, and snow is not uncommon. Summers are hot with temperatures reaching around 40C (104F) on occasion. If you are not adversely affected by heat it is still worth considering a trip at this time as some of the sites will be a little quieter than at other times of the year.

Time difference: GMT+2 hours

Prices We offer trips to cater for a wide range of budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices for your trip to Jordan on our website, alternatively please call our specialists to discuss your plans.

Suggested itineraries Umm Qais

Jerash Ajloun Castle

Amman

syria

Ajloun Castle

Jerash Amman

Dead Sea Dead Sea

Kerak Castle

israel jordan Petra

Wadi Rum

israel

Dana Nature Reserve

jordan

Dana Nature Reserve

Petra

saudi arabia

Amman Madaba

Dead Sea Wadi Mujib Kerak Castle

syria

Jerash

Mount Nebo

Kerak Castle

israel

Dibeen

Petra

saudi arabia

Wadi Rum

Aqaba

jordan

Aqaba

Wadi Rum

saudi arabia

Classic Jordan

Jordan Discovered

Jordan’s Nature Reserves

This is an excellent introduction to Jordan, both its fascinating history and its exceptional landscapes. Over nine days you will explore the highlights of the country, including Petra, Wadi Rum and the Dead Sea, and have some time to relax at the end of your trip.

Being such a compact country, a two week trip enables you to see almost everything Jordan has to offer. The must-see sites of Petra, Jerash and Wadi Rum combine with an exploration of the Kings’ Highway, visits to one of Jordan’s nature reserves and time to relax.

The perfect introduction to Jordan and its nature reserves, this itinerary offers a balance of history, culture and outstanding natural beauty. You’ll have the opportunity to visit the classic sites of the country as well as experiencing more of Jordan’s beautiful landscape, in some less explored areas.

Day 1

Arrive in Amman, where you will be met and taken to your hotel.

Day 1

Spend the morning exploring the capital of Jordan, then head north to visit the Roman site of Jerash.

Day 2

Day 2

Day 3

Day 4

Travel along the Kings’ Highway to Petra, stopping to visit Madaba, Mount Nebo and Kerak Castle en route.

Spend the day visiting the most spectacular sites within Petra, accompanied by a local guide.

Day 5

A second day in Petra to further explore the site.

Day 6

Explore the stark beauty of Wadi Rum before heading to the Dead Sea.

Day 7

Time to relax beside the Dead Sea.

Day 8

Experience the novelty of floating on the Dead Sea.

Day 9

Return to Amman to connect with your international flight.

Stay longer If you wish to extend your trip you could consider including a night in Wadi Rum in your itinerary, or combine it with a trip across the border to visit Jerusalem or even Egypt, to make the most of your stay in the region.

Day 3

Arrive in Amman and transfer to your hotel.

Day 1

Spend the day exploring Amman and the Desert Castles.

Arrive in Amman and transfer to your city hotel.

Day 2

Drive north to explore Jerash, Ajloun and Dibeen Forest Reserves.

Day 3

Visit the desert castles and spend time at the Azraq Wetlands.

Day 4

Travel on the Kings’ Highway via Mount Nebo, Madaba and Kerak Castle to Petra.

Day 5

Explore Petra with a local guide.

Day 6

A second day to visit Petra on your own.

Day 7

Travel to Wadi Rum and enjoy a jeep tour of the area. Stay overnight in a tented camp under the stars.

Leave Amman for a tour of northern Jordan, visiting Umm Qais, Ajloun Castle and Jerash.

Day 4

Travel along the Kings’ Highway to Petra, stopping to visit Madaba, Mount Nebo and Kerak Castle en route.

Day 5

Discover Petra with a local guide.

Day 6

A second day to explore Petra on your own.

Day 7

Visit Wadi Rum before travelling to Aqaba.

Day 8

Enjoy the Red Sea.

Day 8

Drive to Aqaba.

Day 9

Travel to Dana Nature Reserve, stopping to visit Shawbak Castle en route.

Day 9

Relax at the Red Sea.

Day 10

Travel to Dana Nature Reserve and enjoy the spectacular scenery.

Day 11

Embark on a hike from Wadi Dana to Wadi Feynan, staying overnight in the Feynan Eco-lodge.

Day 12

Drive to the Dead Sea, via Wadi Mujib.

Day 13

At leisure at the Dead Sea.

Day 14

Return to Amman to connect with your international flight.

Day 10

Walk from Dana Village to Feynan Eco-lodge.

Day 11

Travel from Feynan to your Dead Sea hotel, stopping to visit Lot’s Cave on your way.

Day 12

Enjoy the novelty of floating on the Dead Sea.

Day 13

A day to continue relaxing at the Dead Sea or to explore other sites nearby.

Day 14

Return to Amman to connect with your international flight.

Stay longer You could spend longer at the Red Sea or the Dead Sea if you want more time to relax.

The Dead Sea

Bedouin man playing a flute, Petra

www.audleytravel.com/jordan • 01993 838 415 • Jordan

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Israel T

he richness of cultural and historical sites belies Israel’s diminutive size. The abundance of sites in Jerusalem is simply breathtaking; the Old Quarter, with the Western Wall and Temple Mount being the deserved highlights. However, by venturing away from this historical city you have the chance to see Israel’s more contemporary side still in tandem with its spiritual past. The rolling hills of Galilee, home to modern wineries and kibbutz farms, are delightful enough in their own right, without mentioning their rich associations with the life of Jesus, who is said to have preached across this magnificent landscape. Israel’s history is not just confined to the Biblical times, and as you travel through the country, you can expect to be enthralled by examples of its Classical, Crusader and Ottoman past.

Audley in Israel

Accommodation

Within Israel we arrange a mix of private and shared tours which explore the highlights of Jerusalem and Tel Aviv, as well as further afield to Bethlehem, Nazareth and Galilee. Although we can certainly offer trips to Israel on its own, we find that most people choose to combine a visit to Israel with neighbouring Jordan, for a longer and more varied trip. This is easily done, simply crossing the border to the north of the Dead Sea via the Allenby Bridge.

Our specialists have researched and inspected a wide range of hotels in Jerusalem and Tel Aviv and would be happy to advise you on the best choice for your trip and your budget. Our favourites are the The American Colony in Jerusalem, an oasis of tranquillity in an attractive building with relaxing gardens; the King David Jerusalem Hotel, well-known for its character and history of hosting the great and the good; and the Dan Tel Aviv which is set on the beach and overlooks the Mediterranean.

Local men, Jerusalem

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Jerusalem A heady mix of incense and icons, spices and souqs, the ancient walled city of Jerusalem is sacred to Jews, Muslims and Christians alike, and a walk here is a journey through history itself. Wander the winding alleyways of the old town and you will encounter vestiges of the Romans, Crusaders, Mamluks and Ottomans. Grab a bite to eat and you’ll experience a delightfully rich cuisine born out of myriad traditions and cultures, and brave the heaving bazaars and you’ll find everything from olives and dates to Armenian pottery and Bedouin saddle bags.

Everything is exotic yet strangely familiar, even for the first time visitor, as Jerusalem’s legends are so widely known. It is a profoundly spiritual yet vibrant place and outside the Old City walls the new city is surprisingly modern with world-class theatres and excellent restaurants and bars.

There are also unmissable museums such as the poignant Yad Vashem holocaust museum and the Israel Museum, home to the Dead Sea Scrolls. From the holy Mount of Olives you can gain an outstanding view of Jerusalem’s Old City, particularly of Temple Mount.

LEBANON

SYRIA

Nazareth

0

25 miles

0

40 kilometres

JORDAN

Tel Aviv

WEST BANK

4

2

Mediterranean Sea

JERUSALEM

3 Bethlehem

1

ISRAEL EGYPT

Dead Sea

1 Bethlehem One of the world’s holiest towns, explore ancient religious sites pulled straight from the Bible.

2 Jerusalem’s Old City Discover the city’s historic and sacred buildings, central to three separate faiths.

3 Mount of Olives Significant to Christianity and Judaism, the Mount provides panoramic views over Jerusalem’s Old City.

4 Jaffa Explore the charming historical streets of this ancient Mediterranean sea port.

Jerusalem’s Old City

Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Jerusalem

Tel Aviv Tel Aviv is more liberal and relaxed than Jerusalem, based as it is on the Mediterranean Sea and with a long beach along the city-front. The city dates to the late 1800s, when Jewish families moved out of the ancient port of Jaffa and started to form settlements to the north. It has continued to grow since these times and is well-known for its mix of inhabitants, who originate from a wide range of countries including Yemen, Russia, Ethiopia, France, Tunisia and Libya. This has given the city a diverse and vibrant culture, as well as an exciting restaurant scene. Jaffa, now amalgamated into Tel Aviv, contains a few archaeological remnants and is an interesting place to stroll around. Here you can explore galleries, craft shops and the famous Jaffa flea market.

One of the oldest cities on Earth, Jerusalem is littered with historic buildings, many of them sacred to the three monotheistic faiths. The Old City is divided into Muslim, Jewish, Christian and Armenian quarters, each with a distinct character which becomes more obvious as you wander around. Jerusalem’s most significant sights can be visited in a day, although it could take a lifetime to discover the city’s many charms.

Temple Mount Jerusalem’s holiest site encompasses some of the most sacred structures in the Jewish and Muslim faiths. The location of the first Jewish temple, built by King Soloman in 1000 BC, Temple Mount is revered as the centre of the Jewish world.

Al-Aqsa Mosque Also situated on Temple Mount, Al-Aqsa Mosque is Islam’s third holiest site after Mecca and Medina. This beautiful building marks the spot where Mohammed ascended into heaven during his Night Journey from Mecca to Jerusalem.

Dome of the Rock, Temple Mount

Western Wall Built as a retaining structure in about 19 BC

by Herod the Great, the Western, or Wailing, Wall is thought to have supported the Second Temple and has been a place of pilgrimage since the 16th century. Jews come to mourn the loss of the temple and to push prayers into chinks in the wall as they chant and sway in front of it. It is particularly busy on Fridays at sunset.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre Identified as the site of Jesus’ crucifixion and burial, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre is one of Christianity’s most important sites.

www.audleytravel.com/israel • 01993 838 415 • Israel

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Oman L

ittle visited but immensely rewarding, Oman is one of the Middle East’s best kept secrets.

Its towering mountains, spectacular canyons, vast deserts and beautiful coastline make the scenery a large draw, but Oman is also an excellent place to experience traditional Arabian culture. Although international in its outlook, Oman has none of the ostentation of its neighbouring states and its people take great pride in their rich history and heritage. Ancient forts and palaces have been expertly restored, fishing and agriculture are still important parts of the economy, and goats wander freely along the streets of traditional villages. Even the vibrant capital Muscat remains a picturesque place set against the background of the soaring Hajar Mountains. Venture beyond the city, however, and you’ll encounter the golden dunes of the Wahiba Sands, narrow meandering wadis (valleys), beautiful white-sand beaches and charming towns such as ancient Nizwa, famous for its massive fort and bustling Friday livestock market where cows, goats and camels are paraded for sale. Wherever you go, you will be greeted by the renowned Omani hospitality, ensuring that the people of this fascinating country will linger as long in your memory as its stunning landscapes and historical charms.

Audley in Oman Musandam Peninsula

IRAN

G

ulf

Khasab

Gu

DUBAI

Th

e

A superb introduction to the Middle East, Oman offers a revealing insight into Arabian culture. You can choose to travel with a private car and driver, or for the more adventurous option, you can hire a car to drive yourself around the country. We can arrange trips of both kinds, and provide road maps and detailed driving instructions for those taking the self-drive option.

These driving instructions are regularly reviewed by our excellent local Omani drivers, who know the areas well. For those wanting to experience the traditional nomadic Bedouin culture, we can organise camping trips in the Empty Quarter, or if your interests are in experiencing Oman’s dramatic scenery we can arrange hikes in the mountains or traditional dhow cruises along the coastline. Easily combined with a visit to the United Arab Emirates, Oman can also work as a stopover en route to Thailand, India, Sri Lanka or the Maldives.

lf o f

ABU DHABI

Oma n

Jabrin

161 kilometres

Sur

Nizwa

Ras Al Jinz

3 Wahiba Sands

2 SAUDI ARABIA

OMAN

ia n

Oc

ea n

Accommodation In general, accommodation options in Oman are limited but the capital, Muscat, offers a good choice including some of the most luxurious properties in the region.

From palatial, intricately-decorated traditional buildings set in manicured gardens to sleek international hotels reflecting local design, Muscat offers choice for a range of budgets. If your trip involves more than one stay in Muscat it is worth opting for two different properties to get a taste of each style. Outside the capital most towns have just one or two properties, but as Oman becomes more popular, new hotels are opening up. Our specialists travel here regularly and research all new accommodation options.

100 miles

0

4 MUSCAT 5

Wadi Je be 1 Ghul l Ak hda r

UAE

0

d In

The Empty Quarter

Salalah

Samhuram

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque

1 Jebel Akhdar Mountains

A spectacular landscape of rugged peaks and terraced slopes renowned for its ancient tombs and impressive forts.

See page 80 2 Wahiba Sands A vast swathe of desert, home to towering dunes and Bedouin tribes.

See page 81

3 Nizwa Friday market A time-honoured livestock market which attracts crowds of local people and offers an insight into traditional life.

See page 80 4 Sultan Qaboos Grand

Mosque Dominating the Muscat skyline, this breathtaking mosque is one of the largest in the world.

See page 78

5 Muscat Traditional yet progressive, calm yet vibrant, Oman’s capital has many facets to explore.

See pages 78-79

Coastline Superb white-sand beaches shelter between headlands, rugged cliffs tower over sparkling seas and nesting turtles come to lay their eggs.

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View across the harbour to Muttrah, Muscat

The Chedi, Muscat

The Chedi, Muscat

Muscat Stretching along the coast against the backdrop of the Hajar Mountains, Muscat is an attractive low-rise city. The skyline is dominated by the huge Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, an ornate edifice whose finest beauties lie within. The most interesting parts of the city however are its oldest; Muttrah, the natural harbour, and sleepy Old Muscat. Muttrah was the city’s original commercial centre and is home to the beguiling Muttrah souq, a tangle of back streets lined with traders and craftspeople selling everything from jewellery and handicrafts to gold, frankincense and myrrh. Here the houses have delicately-styled balconies, typical of the Portuguese influence which once held sway.

The walled city of Old Muscat, protected by the Jalali and Mirani forts, is home to the Sultan’s palace, while Qurm, north of the old city, buzzes with busy restaurants and slick hotels set along the white-sand beach.

78

One of the finest hotels in the country, The Chedi occupies a large stretch of land, including a private beach, just outside Muscat.

The minimalist style of the hotel’s low-rise buildings, spread throughout the beautifully landscaped gardens, derives from traditional Omani architecture, and the 158 rooms and suites look out to water pools and palm gardens, with mountains and the shimmering sea of the Gulf beyond. Decor is in keeping with the sleek understated style of the hotel, with natural coloured materials and mahogany furniture.

The Chedi boasts three pools, an excellent spa and health club as well as a restaurant which is one of the best places to eat in Muscat.

Al Bustan Palace, Muscat

Al Bustan Palace, Muscat Ever since its creation this hotel has been providing first-rate service and accommodation: while it is the closest good hotel to Old Muscat it also has the advantage of extensive landscaped gardens and a long stretch of private beach.

Guests are welcomed in a soaring atrium, richly decorated in a traditional style with a crystal chandelier and fountain. The 250 rooms are designed to reflect local traditions but also provide state-of-the-art facilities: all have balconies with views over the sea or mountainous landscape. The Al Bustan Palace has an enviable and deserved reputation as one of the best hotels in the Middle East.

Gold jewellery, Muttrah souq

Jalali Fort, Muscat

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat

Men at the fish market, Muttrah

Decorative ceiling of the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat

Self-drive Oman

Shangri La Barr Al-Jissah Resort & Spa, Muscat

Shangri La Barr Al-Jissah Resort & Spa, Muscat A 40-minute-drive from the airport and a short distance from Old Muscat, the Shangri La Barr Al-Jissah Resort & Spa offers typical Omani hospitality and luxurious accommodation.

Comprising three hotels (Al Waha, Al Bandar and Al Husn) which each differ in character, there are over 20 restaurants and cafes and an exhaustive range of leisure facilities, the resort is perfect for relaxing at the end of a longer tour through Oman. It is set on a private bay, framed by the deep red of the rocky mountains behind.

With an expanding and well-maintained road network, stunning scenery and largely empty lanes, a self-drive trip around Oman is a relatively easy option. Free to explore at your own pace, you can have complete independence and the option of getting well off the beaten track. There are plenty of thrilling landscapes and charming towns to explore in the mountains around Nizwa and along the wadis off the coast road east of Muscat, though distances can often be deceptive as the roads weave around hairpin bends in stunning fashion. Four or five days should be enough to explore some of rural Oman but it can be useful to have a hire car while staying in the capital too as Muscat’s

Highway near Muscat

spread out nature means some of the hotels are quite far from the central souqs and restaurants. Along with maps and driving advice, we can arrange all aspects of your self-drive trip including flights, accommodation and rental car, as well as making suggestions for sightseeing.

Driving near Wahiba Sands, Oman

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Friday livestock market, Nizwa

Nizwa

Jebel Akhdar Mountains

The capital of Oman in the 6th and 7th centuries, Nizwa has long been a bustling trading hub for farmers, jewellers, potters and craftspeople who come in from villages in the surrounding mountains to haggle and barter their wares.

The city sits below the towering Jebel Akhdar, part of the Hajar range, though its most obvious feature is the 40-metre-tower of the 17th-century Nizwa Fort. Climb to the top for views of the surrounding date plantations and mountains, or explore Nizwa souq nearby which is renowned for its silversmiths, antiques and spices. Most impressive however, is the Friday livestock market, which attracts farmers from far and wide. Goats, sheep and cattle are trotted out for sale and both men and women take part in the auction in traditional dress: white robes and turbans or caps for the men and intricate face veils and colourful headscarves for the women.

The sheer scale of the Hajar mountain range only becomes clear as you venture along twisting hairpin tracks and past ancient villages dwarfed by the mountain sides. The Jebel Akhdar, part of this range, are irrigated by the traditional falaj system and home to terraced orchards and fields where farming has changed little in centuries.

You’ll also find some impressive UNESCO World Heritage Sites here including the beehive tombs, the vast necropoli of Bat and Al Ayn, which predate the Egyptian pyramids, and the massive fort at Bahla, which dates from 1000 BC. Nearby, Jabrin has an equally impressive fort, renowned for its exquisite painted ceilings.

The mountains offer great walking trails; one of the most memorable is to an abandoned village below the canyon rim at Wadi Ghul, Oman’s ‘Grand Canyon’.

Nizwa Fort

80

The View, Nizwa

The View, Nizwa Perched on a ridge high above the town of Al Hamra, a little way outside of Nizwa, The View consists of 30 individual rooms, of which 16 Premier rooms have unobstructed views over the valley. The remaining 14 Superior rooms are positioned in a row and also have commanding views of the region. Meals are served in the small dining area which also looks over the valley and Al Hamra. The View offers a comfortable and altogether different experience to most other options in the area.

Alila, Jebel Akhdar

Alila, Jebel Akhdar Perched atop the spectacular Jebel Akhdar Mountain, overlooking a dramatic gorge, the Alila offers a perfect base for exploring Oman’s fascinating interior. The 78 rooms and suites all boast awe-inspiring views of the surrounding mountain scenery and are luxuriously appointed, reflecting the diverse culture of the region.

The hotel also has a range of excellent facilities, including an outdoor infinity pool, indoor heated pool, spa and varied dining options.

Remote village of Balad Sayt, Jebel Akhdar Mountains

Green turtle, Ras Al Jinz

Bedouin woman, Wahiba Sands

Wahiba Sands

Wahiba Sands

Desert Nights Camp, Wahiba Sands

Untouched and sculpted by the wind into beautiful sweeping shapes, the towering dunes of the Wahiba Sands are a dramatic introduction to the Omani desert. This vast swathe of undulating sand is just four hours from Muscat but save for some Bedouin tribes who have made permanent settlements on the southern edges, it remains a decidedly wild and otherworldly place. The Wahiba Sands support a surprising diversity of flora and fauna but the real draw here is the landscape, and a night spent under the stars is unforgettable. It is possible to visit Bedouin homes and enjoy convivial hospitality, and take 4x4 trips along some of the highest dunes, which reach over 150 metres in height.

Experience a night under starry desert skies and genial Bedouin hospitality at this luxurious permanent camp in the Wahiba Sands. The 30 air-conditioned fixed tents are furnished in a richly traditional style with brightly coloured fabrics, Omani furniture and en suite bathrooms.

Each has its own lounge area where you can relax and admire the views of the 30-metredunes which flank the camp. Guests can also enjoy a range of activities. Dinner is served in the evening around low tables in the charming restaurant where entertainment is provided by traditional musicians. Outside, the views of the night sky are spectacular.

Turtle nesting beach, Ras Al Jinz

Ras Al Jinz The most easterly point on the Arabian Peninsula, Ras Al Jinz is a small cove famous for its nesting green turtles, the largest of all hard-shelled turtles. With up to 20,000 coming ashore here to lay their eggs, these reptiles can be seen year round with the main nesting season between July and September. The beach is in a protected nature reserve and boasts an informative visitor centre. Accommodation is available close by at the Carapace Lodge which allows for late evening and early morning visits to see the turtles at their most active and avoid the crowds.

Desert Nights Camp, Wahiba Sands

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Beach near Salalah

Juweira Boutique Hotel, Salalah

Juweira Boutique Hotel, Salalah

Salalah

Nestled on the picturesque marina promenade of Salalah Beach and facing the Indian Ocean, the Juweira Boutique Hotel offers you the chance to stay slightly further out of Salalah city than that of the majority of hotels in this region.

The decor and furnishings of this hotel exude a refreshing blend of contemporary European and traditionally oriental flavours. The hotel offers a variety of recreational facilities and services, including two large swimming pools, a state-of-the-art wellness centre and 82 intimate guest rooms and suites.

Fruit stall, Salalah

One of Oman’s most ancient settlements and the traditional seat of the Sultan, Salalah is the capital of the Dhofar region in the far southwest of Oman. Made wealthy during the 13th century from a thriving trade in incense, today it is an attractive but sleepy place for most of the year.

During the summer months however, both the landscape and atmosphere change as the khareef (monsoon) transforms the arid fields and hills into lush, green slopes and visitors flock in from around the Arabian Peninsula to experience its effects. There are several points of interest around the town including the tomb of the Prophet Job high up in the Jebels, and the ruins of the ancient port of Samhuram, once the centre of the frankincense trade and associated with the Queen of Sheba.

Frankincense trees, near Salalah

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Omani woman, Salalah

Boat in the Khor Ash Sham fjord, Musandam

Khasab harbour, Musandam

Six Senses Zighy Bay, Musandam Peninsula

Mosque in Khasab, Musandam

Musandam Peninsula Incredibly isolated yet easy to access, the Musandam Peninsula juts into the Straits of Hormuz and is surrounded by the United Arab Emirates which cuts it off entirely from the rest of Oman. It is one of the least visited corners of the country and has its own individual character, but its brilliantly clear water, sheer cliffs and deeply scored coastline also make it one of the most beautiful parts of the country to visit. Sit back in a dhow as you cruise along the coast and enjoy the spectacular scenery, snorkel in tranquil coves and then head inland to explore the small villages and forts along the winding roads that cut into the folds of the mountains. Musandam can be reached by road or air from Muscat, or you can drive across the border from Dubai.

Cradled by high mountains and overlooking a broad sweep of secluded beach, the Six Senses Zighy Bay offers a profound sense of tranquillity in a wonderfully scenic location. Guests arrive either by speedboat or along the dramatic road from the mountains, from where you can paraglide down to the beach should you wish.

A chic hotel built in the style of a traditional Omani village, its 79 free-standing villas are all constructed from natural stone and warm woods. There is a wonderful attention to detail throughout, with private butler service and an understated yet refined sense of style. The villas each come with their own plunge pool but there

Fisherman mending his nets, Musandam

is also an infinity main pool, a superb spa and a range of dining options including private dining in the hills. The hotel is closely linked to the local community and school, and is involved in establishing a local marine reserve.

Six Senses Zighy Bay, Musandam Peninsula

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Desert landscape, the Empty Quarter

The Empty Quarter The largest sand desert in the world, Rub’ al Khali, or the Empty Quarter, covers much of the southern third of the Arabian Peninsula and encompasses parts of Oman, Yemen, the United Arab Emirates and Saudi Arabia.

Its sea of rolling sand dunes has long held explorers in its thrall, most notably British explorer Sir Wilfred Thesiger whose expeditions through the Empty Quarter in the 1940s and 1950s have been well documented. In Oman, the Empty Quarter

Camels in the Empty Quarter

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can be easily accessed from Salalah, as its outer reaches end just north of this coastal city. From Salalah, camping trips of varying lengths can be arranged, which mirror the nomadic lifestyle of the Bedouin people who traditionally lived within this inhospitable expanse. Journeying within the sand dunes can be done by either the exciting and exhilarating method of 4x4 vehicle, or by camel, a more peaceful and authentic way to travel.

Omani man, the Empty Quarter

Suggested itineraries Tailoring your trip

Muscat

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a flavour of what is possible, and are routes that work particularly well. We can use these as a basis to plan your trip or can design a completely different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests. Please call one of our Oman specialists to start planning your itinerary.

UAE

Jabrin

Muscat

Sur Ras Al Jinz

saudi arabia

Wadi Ghul Sur

Nizwa

Jabrin

oman

Ras Al Jinz

Wahiba Sands

Getting around

Salalah

In Oman, you have the choice of travelling with a private driver for the trip into the interior of the country, using a 4x4 vehicle in order to cope with the varying terrains, which may include mountains, wadis and deserts. In the capital and Salalah you may have transfers and sightseeing provided in air-conditioned saloon vehicles.

Otherwise, there is the opportunity to drive yourself around Oman, and we can arrange hire of a 4x4 vehicle for you. Either way, a ten day trip offers ample time to visit both the capital and the interior for a taste of Oman’s history and culture as well as its many contrasting landscapes. With two weeks to explore you can also take in the Dhofar region, around Salalah, and the remote but scenic Musandam Peninsula.

When to go Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun

Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

33 33 33 33

5

5

5

3

33 33 33

Grand Tour of Oman

This is a great itinerary for the first-time visitor to the country because it gives a good overview of some of the main highlights. The trip takes you through the contrasting landscapes of the coast, desert and mountains, with time to enjoy the capital and also the interesting interior town of Nizwa. This itinerary can also be done with a private driver.

This itinerary offers a more comprehensive look at Oman, its culture and history, along with time to relax in Muscat and Salalah on the country’s beaches. The trip could either be done with your own private driver or as a self-drive itinerary.

Oman is best visited from October through to April, as the temperatures are warm but not too hot and the humidity is a little lower. The summer months from June to September are very hot indeed, making sightseeing uncomfortable, except in the mountain area near Nizwa, where the cooler weather can be a welcome relief from the heat and humidity of the Omani coast. Salalah experiences the monsoon (known locally as the khareef) between June and September. The rain and humidity at this time tend to discourage visitors, who come instead from October through to April, making the most of the blue skies and mild temperatures.

Day 1

Fly overnight to Muscat.

Day 2

Arrive in Muscat and head to your hotel.

Day 1

Fly overnight to Muscat.

Day 2

Arrive in Muscat and transfer to your hotel.

Days 3-4 Discover the sights of Muscat, including the souqs and the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque.

Day 3

Discover the sights of Muscat with your driver.

Day 5

Day 4

Your car hire begins today. Pass through the spectacular Wadi Bani Auf on the way to Nizwa.

Travel south from Muscat along the coast to Ras Al Jinz, with the opportunity to visit the beach where turtles come to nest.

Day 6

Day 5

Explore Nizwa and the surrounding Jebel Akhdar region, including Jabrin Fort and Oman’s ‘Grand Canyon’ at Wadi Ghul.

Visit Wadi Bani Khalid on the way to the Wahiba Sands, spending a night there at a desert camp.

Day 7

Travel to Nizwa.

Day 8

Visit Nizwa and the mountainous Jebel Akhdar region, including Wadi Ghul.

Day 9

A second day of sightseeing from Nizwa, going to Jabrin, Bahla and the beehive tombs at Al Ayn.

Day 10

Travel to Muscat through the spectacular Wadi Bani Auf. In the evening, fly from Muscat to Salalah.

Day 11

Explore the coastline to the east of Salalah, going to the ancient port of Samhuram and some of the pretty fishing villages in the area.

Day 12

Discover the coastline to the west of Salalah, including the famous frankincense trees of the area.

Day 13

Visit the town and souqs of Salalah.

Day 14

A free day for relaxation.

Day 15

Head to the airport for a flight to Muscat, where you will connect with your international flight.

Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year.

5 Travel is not recommended.

Samhuram

Oman Self-Drive

33 The best time to travel.

3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.

~

Nizwa

Wahiba Sands

T 01993 838 430

3

Wadi Ghul

Day 6

Travel to the Wahiba Sands, crossing the dunes to your desert camp.

Day 7

Drive to Wadi Bani Khalid, one of Oman’s most picturesque spots, before continuing to Ras Al Jinz for the opportunity to view the turtles.

Day 8

Return to Muscat via Sur along the coastal road.

Day 9

Drop your car off at the airport in time for your international flight.

Stay longer Extend the trip by spending a few more days in Muscat, with time to relax at one of the capital’s beaches or up in the mountains.

Time difference: GMT+4 hours

Prices We offer trips to cater for a wide range of budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices for your trip to Oman on our website, alternatively please call our specialists to discuss your plans.

Muttrah harbour, Muscat

www.audleytravel.com/oman • 01993 838 430 • Oman

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Tunisia O

ne of north Africa’s most underrated and undiscovered destinations, Tunisia offers far more than its reputation for beach holidays suggests. Although its beautiful Mediterranean coastline makes a fine choice for lying in the sun, venture just beyond the sands and you’ll discover rolling fields of olive trees, lush forests, rugged mountains and vast swathes of desert. Everywhere the landscape is littered with vestiges of the past, from the ruins of Carthage to the subterranean Roman villas of Bulla Regia and the spectacular amphitheatre of El Jem. Many of these historic sites are deserted, so you can see them in utter tranquillity, and thanks to the diminutive size of the country, it’s easy to cover many diverse attractions in a short space of time. Modern Tunisia has been shaped by this rich and complex past and its laid-back people continue to look both east and west for inspiration.

From the Arab medinas and grand mosques to the former royal palaces, colonial towns and Berber camps, Tunisians are proud of their heritage and keen to share it with visitors.

Audley in Tunisia Tunisia is an established beach destination and most visitors flock to resorts like Sousse and Hammamet. However, to experience the real Tunisia and see some of its many wonderful sights, it is necessary to venture further afield. The easiest way to do this is with a car and driver but we can also organise a guide to accompany you if you wish to gain a deeper insight into this fascinating country. Many visitors see little more than Tunis and its surrounds, making places such as Sidi Bou Said very busy at times, but we can advise on ways to see popular places at quieter times as well as suggesting a range of worthwhile escapes far from the crowds.

Accommodation There is a good selection of international hotels and resorts along the northern coast, most of which have swimming pools and spa facilities. Elsewhere, accommodation has far more local character and personality with some wonderful boutique hotels set in converted traditional houses in Tunis, Sidi Bou Said and Jerba. Much like Moroccan riads, they are generally furnished in a classical local style but with a contemporary eye for detail and offer a far more intimate and revealing insight into Tunisian life.

We have visited all the properties we recommend and chosen our favourites based on location and character.

Mediterranean Sea

Sidi Bou Said

3 Carthage

1 2

Bulla Regia

TUNIS

6

Dougga El Kef Maktar

5 Kairouan

4

El Jem

Sfax

ALGERIA

0

50 miles

0

80 kilometres

7

Tozeur

Jerba

Chott El Jerid

TUNISIA

LIBYA

1 Tunis medina This UNESCO-protected labyrinth of winding alleyways and souqs is lined with fine mosques and mausoleums.

See page 88

5 Kairouan Great Mosque North Africa’s oldest mosque set in Tunisia’s most sacred city.

See page 88

2 The Bardo Museum A magnificent collection including Roman mosaics and Phoenician artefacts housed in a former royal palace.

See page 88 3 Sidi Bou Said The cobbled streets, whitewashed houses and stunning views have drawn artists to Sidi Bou Said for years.

See page 88

4 El Jem An incredibly well-preserved Roman amphitheatre which towers over its surroundings.

See page 89

6 Dougga An exceptional Roman city with a well-preserved mausoleum, capitol and theatre as well as numerous temples.

See page 89 7 Jerba

A predominantly Berber island with a unique culture and flavour.

See page 89

Sidi Bou Said

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Avenue Habib Bourguiba, Tunis

Tunis

Sidi Bou Said

A modern Arab capital with an ancient heart, Tunis has a long and complex history and the vestiges of Roman, Ottoman and French rule are still clearly visible on its streets. The oldest and most interesting part of town is the UNESCOprotected medina, a labyrinthine morass of coiling backstreets thronged with people. Lined with stalls, souqs, hammams, mosques and beautifully restored houses, it is by far the liveliest part of town. By comparison the ordered tree-lined boulevards of the new town, which centre around Avenue Habib Bourguiba, are very French in style, with many Art Deco gems, busy cafes and families strolling by night. The city’s finest attraction is the ornate Bardo Museum which is housed in a former royal palace. The large vaulted rooms, with their intricate stucco work and beautiful stained glass, play host to some of the most precious Roman mosaics in existence.

An enchanting medieval village of winding cobbled streets, twisting steps and hidden flower-filled courtyards, Sidi Bou Said lies on the outskirts of Tunis overlooking a vast sweep of sparkling sea. The village, with its magnificent setting and glorious views over the bay to two distant peaks, has long attracted artists. Henri Matisse and Paul Klee came here and today many of the town’s ancient, heavy, studded doors still lead to artists’ studios and workshops.

All the town’s buildings are painted in a brilliant whitewash, their doors, windows and shutters in a uniform, dazzling blue. Wonderfully picturesque and a favoured escape from the bustle of Tunis, it is a charming place to wander the streets and relax in a cafe lingering over a sweet mint tea.

Dar Said, Sidi Bou Said

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Dar Said, Sidi Bou Said A small family-owned hotel at the heart of Sidi Bou Said, the Dar Said was originally a residence and dates back to the mid-19 th century.

It has just 24 rooms and suites, centred around a jasmine-filled courtyard, and retains a quiet and intimate atmosphere. Its facilities include a small hammam and a swimming pool, with a terrace overlooking the Mediterranean. For evening meals, Dar Zarrouk is located exactly opposite the hotel and serves traditional Tunisian food.

Sidi Bou Said

Kairouan Founded in the 7th century by invading Arab forces and now revered as one of the most sacred Islamic sites, the walled city of Kairouan is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and has a rich architectural heritage. The city, still a major pilgrimage destination and centre for Islamic teaching, is most famous for its magnificent Great Mosque which was begun in 670 AD and has been rebuilt several times since. One of the oldest mosques in the Arab world, it has a grand minaret, a massive courtyard and a serene columned prayer hall illuminated by giant chandeliers. Around the mosque are the winding streets of the ancient medina lined with whitewashed buildings, souqs and carpet sellers, all little changed in centuries. As you wander through arches and narrow alleyways you’ll come across several other mosques, including the beautiful 9 th-century Mosque of the Three Gates.

Boat on the beach, Jerba

Great Mosque, Kairouan

Mosque in Midoun, Jerba

Libyco-Punic ruins, Dougga

Spice stall in the medina, Tunis

Jerba The island of Jerba is thought to be the legendary ‘Land of the Lotus Eaters’ from the stories of Ulysses, and is a charming, laid-back place to visit.

Separated from the mainland by only a small strip of the Mediterranean, the island nevertheless has its own distinct charm and is recognised amongst other things for its wide-ranging arts and crafts, its sandy beaches, and for its flat terrain, which makes it easily navigable by bicycle. Jerba has some interesting Islamic architecture, as well as El Ghriba Synagogue, which is testament to the long history of the island’s Jewish population.

The archaeological sites of Tunisia Tunisia’s strategic position between Europe, Africa and the Levant meant that over the centuries the Phoenicians, Romans, Arabs, Ottomans and French all fought for its control. Today the country is littered with the vestiges of these great powers. The most important sites are listed below, but wander the Tunisian countryside and you’ll come across many more.

Carthage Established in the 9 th century BC, Carthage was at the centre of a great empire but the city was eventually destroyed by the Romans who built their own metropolis on its ruins.

The remains of Phoenician and Roman Carthage can be seen just northeast of Tunis and their vast scale and numerous houses, baths and basilicas give an idea of just how large and powerful this city once was.

Bulla Regia A Roman city known for its highly decorated houses, Bulla Regia is also home to a series of beautiful mosaics. Partially built underground to protect it from the heat, Bulla Regia was notorious for its salacious

Ruins at Carthage

entertainment and in the 4th century, St Augustine urged its residents to repent and behave in a virtuous manner.

Dougga The impressive ruins of Dougga overlook fertile rolling countryside and hark back to the city’s days as capital of a Libyco-Punic state that thrived under Roman and Byzantine rule. The monumental capitol and mausoleum are the site’s most important ruins but the more prosaic bathhouses and latrines tell much about this period of history.

El Jem The massive 3rd-century amphitheatre at El Jem once accommodated 35,000 spectators, making it one of the largest in the world. Its complex and sophisticated construction has been left largely intact and it towers above the streets around it.

Man pouring tea, Tunis medina

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Suggested itinerary Sidi Bou Said Carthage Bulla Regia

Tunis Thuburbo Majus

Dougga El Kef Maktar

Kairouan El Jem

Roman Tunisia This itinerary includes a visit to the major Roman sites in the north of Tunisia, giving a real insight into the classical history of the country and the way of life in typical Roman cities such as Dougga.

In addition, there is time to explore the Arab medinas of Tunis, El Kef and Kairouan and enjoy Tunisia’s coastline at Sidi Bou Said and Carthage.

Terrace of Palais d’Orient, Tunis Medina

Tailoring your trip The itinerary shown is designed to give you a flavour of what is possible, and is a route that works particularly well. We can use this as a basis to plan your trip or can design a completely different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests. Please call one of our Tunisia specialists to start planning your itinerary.

T 01993 838 445

Getting around

Mosaic, Bardo Museum, Tunis

Distances in Tunisia are relatively short so road travel is entirely feasible. Roads between towns are in good condition, with a motorway linking the north with the south. Cities can be very busy, but once out in the rural areas, the roads are much quieter.

When to go Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun

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~

3

33 33

3

Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

3

3

33

3

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Day 1

Arrive in Tunis.

Day 2

Morning visit to the Bardo Museum, followed by an afternoon guided tour of Tunis medina.

Day 3

Drive to the Roman sites of Dougga and Bulla Regia en route to El Kef.

Day 4

Head south from El Kef to Kairouan, stopping to visit the Roman site of Maktar on your way.

Day 5

Explore Kairouan in the morning and then travel to El Jem to visit the amphitheatre and mosaics.

Day 6

Head north to Sidi Bou Said with the chance to visit the ruins of Thuburbo Majus on the way.

Day 7

Explore the Punic and Roman ruins of Carthage in the morning, with the rest of the day free to spend in Sidi Bou Said.

Day 8

Return to nearby Tunis for your international flight.

33 The best time to travel.

3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.

~

Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year.

5 Travel is not recommended.

Tunisia’s climate is ruled by its proximity to the Mediterranean, making the winter months (from November to early March), cool, grey and quite damp. The best time to go is the late spring, when the temperatures are warm and the spring flowers are in bloom around the archaeological sites. The summer, though very hot in the south, is a good time to visit the north as the archaeological sites are quieter than normal.

Stay longer The itinerary could be extended by heading south to spend a few days on the relaxing island of Jerba.

Time difference: GMT+1 hour

Prices We offer trips to cater for a wide range of budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices for your trip to Tunisia on our website, alternatively please call our specialists to discuss your plans.

Pottery, Jerba

90

Roman theatre, Dougga

Useful information

Colonnaded street, Jerash, Jordan

Local man in the medina, Fez, Morocco

Limestone terraces, Pamukkale, Turkey

Honeymoons

Flights

AITO Membership

With such a wealth of important historical sites, a honeymoon in this region would be a truly memorable trip. These countries all offer opportunities to combine your sightseeing with relaxation in either a luxurious coastal hotel or in a romantic retreat in the mountains. In addition, there are a number of exceptional experiences which would be perfect additions to such a special trip. We offer a honeymoon gift service which allows friends and family to contribute to the cost of your honeymoon.

We use a range of airlines for our trips to Turkey, North Africa and the Middle East, including the national carriers of most of our destinations: Tunis Air, Royal Air Maroc, Oman Air, Turkish Airlines, Royal Jordanian and Egypt Air. These often have good flight schedules and access to reduced domestic fares within the destination.

There are several other international carriers we recommend. UK based airlines operate to all the destinations in the brochure, making combination trips of two or more countries easier and better value. For Oman, we use Oman Air, but also Qatar Airways, Emirates and Etihad, which are all excellent airlines and open up the possibility of combining Oman with other destinations. British Airways travel to most of the countries in the region, while other European carriers offer indirect flights from a number of UK airports.

Our specialists are knowledgeable about all of the routes available, and they can offer advice on the best options for you.

Audley is a member of the Association of Independent Tour Operators. The association represents Britain’s leading independent tour operators and encourages high standards of quality and service.

Audley abides by the Association’s Code of Conduct and adheres to the AITO Quality Charter which can be viewed on www.aito.com

Terms & Conditions and Travel Insurance Your booking is subject to the terms and conditions of Audley Travel which are detailed in the booking form. It is vital that you have adequate travel insurance and we are able to suggest a number of policies either for the duration of your trip or on an annual basis.

Photography in this brochure We would like to thank the following photographers and organisations for the images used in this brochure: Alamy, Audley staff, clients and suppliers, AWL images, Dreamstime, iStockphoto, Robert Harding, Superstock.

All images used in this brochure were obtained in good faith by Audley Travel Group Limited and in the belief that all necessary consents and clearances were obtained for their use. For any queries relating to photography please contact us on 01993 838 040.

Visit our offices

www.audleytravel.com

If you would like to discuss your travel arrangements in person we welcome personal visits, please call in advance to arrange an appointment with one or more of our country specialists. Our offices are at the New Mill, a 17th-century converted wool mill on the outskirts of Witney, ten miles west of Oxford, on the edge of the Cotswolds. We also have an office in west London if this is more convenient for you.

Our website is packed with information, features and advice covering all our destinations across the globe. On the site you can browse by theme, interest or region as well as viewing additional accommodation options and itineraries that are not featured in this brochure. You can request all our brochures online or contact us via the website where there is the option to tell us about your plans so that we can start tailoring your itinerary.

www.audleytravel.com/visit-us

Useful information

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New Mill, New Mill Lane, Witney, Oxfordshire OX29 9SX, United Kingdom Telephone: 01993 838 400 • Fax: 01993 838 010 Email: arabia@audleytravel.com • Website: www.audleytravel.com

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