Regent - North Korea by Travel Designers

NORTH KOREA

CONTENTS 2 Introducing Regent Holidays

4 A Brief History of North Korea

6 North Korea FAQs

10 Carl Meadows at the Royal Geographical Society

14 National Holidays

16 Foundation Tours (4–7 days)

24 Hilary Bradt: Escape to the Country

30 Explorer & Pioneering Tours (8–18 days)

34 Private & Special Interest Tours

W E ’ R E S T IL L HOO K E D ON A LT E R N AT I V E T R AV E L - A ND I T DOE S N ’ T GE T A N Y M OR E A LT E R N AT I V E T H A N NOR T H K OR E A . 4

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North Korea Map

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INTRODUCING

REGENT HOLIDAYS lways on the lookout to expand into more weird and wonderful destinations, it was owner Neil Taylor who began negotiations with the DPRK (North Korea) in the early 80s, eventually leading to Regent Holidays becoming the UK’s original and only North Korea tour operator in 1985. For the first time, pioneering travellers could fly into Pyongyang – then on a weekly Aeroflot service via Moscow – and join one of our groundbreaking tours of the highly secretive country. And, after more than 30 years at the forefront of North Korean travel, we still strive to push the boundaries of tourism, whether that means chartering a private Soviet aircraft to ‘newlyopened’ towns and cities or developing trekking

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tours into the Kumgang Mountains – off limits to tourists until 2010. We’ve clocked-up over 300 North Korea tours, been voted the Best Small Tour Operator to East and Central Asia at The British Travel Awards and captivated intrepid travellers with our bizarre tales at the Royal Geographical Society. In short, we’ve been there, done that and bought the propaganda poster. In fact our North Korea Travel Specialists have visited the country more than 30 times, always returning even more enthused with, and bemused by, this perplexing enigma of a country. We’re still hooked on alternative travel – and it doesn’t get any more alternative than North Korea.

Image: Holiday celebrations in front of Juche Tower

Regent Holidays was founded on the unconventional. When our inaugural tour to the People’s Socialist Republic of Albania departed in 1971 it was the start of a company that would become synonymous with alternative holidays behind the Iron Curtain and beyond the ordinary.

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A BRIEF HISTORY OF

NORTH KOREA Japan’s 35-year rule over Korea ends with its World War II surrender. Korea is divided along the 38th parallel between the Sovietbacked North and US-backed South.

North Korea conducts its first nuclear test.

The International Friendship Exhibition opens in Mount Myohyang, showcasing tens of thousands of gifts from foreign dignitaries presented to the Great Leader.

North Korea and the UN sign a truce, and a Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) is established between the North and South. No peace treaty is ever signed.

Regent Holidays operates its first ever group tour of the DPRK.

North Korea compete at the Pyeongchang Winter Olympics.

Kim Il Sung dies, and his eldest son, Kim Jong Il, assumes power.

The Democratic People’s Republic of Korea is proclaimed, with Soviet-backed Kim Il Sung as the first Premier.

Tensions rise with the US after Pyongyang test fires its first long-range missile.

USS Pueblo, a United States Navy intelligence vessel, is captured by the North Koreans off the coast of Wonsan.

1945

1948

1950

1953

1962

1968

1972

1978

1982

1985

1991

1994

2000

2006

2011

2017

2018

Kim Jong Il dies and is succeeded by his son, Kim Jong Un: the third leader in the Kim family.

War breaks out between South and North, resulting in a three-year bloody conflict and four million casualties.

North and South Korea issue a joint statement on peaceful reunification.

North and South Korea join the United Nations.

North Korea reports a 100% election turnout, with 100% of votes for the WPK. North Korea’s Communist Party and New Democratic Party merge to form the Workers’ Party of Korea (WPK).

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Pyongyang’s Juche Tower is completed, symbolising Kim Il Sung’s state ideology of national self-reliance.

Kim Jong Il and South Korean President Kim Dae-jung shake hands at the first ever inter-Korea summit.

The Democratic People’s Republic of Korea celebrates its 70th anniversary.

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NORTH KOREA

DPRK FAQS As one of the world’s most secretive countries, you probably have countless questions about what it’s like to travel in North Korea. If we haven’t answered yours here, call one of our North Korea Travel Specialists to speak to someone with first-hand experience.

IS IT ETHICAL TO TRAVEL TO NORTH KOREA? Since we started travelling to the DPRK over 30 years ago, we have seen tourism provide employment to hundreds of people, help to channel money into much-needed infrastructure, and perhaps more importantly, offer some small cultural interaction with the outside world that would otherwise be near non-existent. Ultimately the choice must be yours, but we very much believe that tourism helps to broaden the minds of both Koreans and visitors alike.

IS IT SAFE? Your safety, along with that of our local guides, is key. Though some governments intermittently advise against travel to the DPRK, we deem the country safe as visitors are essentially guests of the state and are treated as such. We work closely with the Foreign & Commonwealth Office, the British Embassy in Pyongyang and our ground agents, and have never encountered problems. We can advise of the current position of both the FCO and Regent Holidays, but recommend you familiarise yourself with your government’s position before booking. In order to keep yourself and our guides safe, we ask that you observe any restrictions on your movements, reading materials and photography, and that you respect the values of the local people by keeping your thoughts on politics, religion or ideology to yourself. If you abide by these simple rules then your trip will be a safe and happy one.

W IL L I GE T A V I S A? In short, yes! Regent Holidays have a 99.9% success rate in obtaining visas for our clients. Our North Korea Travel Specialists provide a complete visa service from start to finish – with the cost normally included in the tour price – making the entire process as straightforward as possible.

Image: Kaesong city scene

At the time of booking we’ll require some basic personal details in order to start the formal authorisation process. Then, around a month or two before travel, UK citizens will be asked for their passports and application forms so that we can submit them to the London Embassy for visa processing, which can take up to two weeks. Your passport must have at least six months validity beyond the end of your trip, with one spare page for the Korean visa and registration stamps (in addition to space for your Chinese visa). Clients travelling from outside of the UK will collect their visas at the DPR Korean Consulate in Beijing a day or two before the start of the tour.

W IL L I B E A B L E T O GE T T R AV E L IN S U R A N CE ? Most Asia travel policies cover your visit to the country, but check with your provider and read the small print. If the FCO advises against travel, you may need a specialist policy to provide additional cover. Regent Holidays are also ABTA bonded and ATOL licensed.

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H O W W IL L I T R AV E L T O N O R T H K O R E A?

C A N I TA K E M Y P H O N E O R L A P T O P ?

Beijing is the main hub for accessing North Korea, and your travel between the Chinese capital and Pyongyang is included in the tour cost. Our packages normally start with the 90-minute Air Koryo flight from Beijing to Pyongyang, where you will meet the rest of the group and your Korean guides on arrival. Rest assured: Air Koryo’s new Russian-built aircraft meet or exceed all international safety standards!

You can take your mobile telephone, laptop or tablet, but you will not be able to use them for international communications once in North Korea. The contents of your electronic items are also likely to be checked upon entry and departure, and anything that could cause offence should be deleted from your device in advance.

Schedule permitting, at the end of our itineraries we give clients the option to return to Beijing either with Air Koryo or by train. Should you wish to travel overland, the overnight train takes around 24 hours to make the 1349-kilometre journey through rural Korea and China, including border formalities. Your tickets will be organised in advance and are included in the tour cost, whichever option you choose.

International SIM cards, though expensive, can be purchased locally, and most hotels do have telephones from which you can make international calls. You are, however, unlikely to find Wi-Fi during your stay, so prepare to be cut off from the digital world.

W IL L I N E E D A CHIN E S E V I S A? As your flight to North Korea will not be through-ticketed, it’s normally always necessary to spend a night in Beijing before travelling on to Pyongyang. Flight or train schedules permitting, you may also need to spend a night in China post-tour. If you are a UK citizen arriving into Beijing by air, and staying in the city for less than 144 hours, you can make use of China’s Transit Without Visa scheme. You will need to show proof of onward travel at immigration and will require half a page in your passport for each visa waiver stamp. Those who plan to spend more time in China, or are travelling onward by boat or train, must obtain a Chinese Visa prior to travel. Our North Korea Travel Specialists can offer advice on how and where to apply.

C A N I T R AV E L IN DE P E N DE N T LY IN N O R T H K O R E A? To put it simply: no. Regent Holidays offer both group tours and private tailor-made itineraries in North Korea. Whichever way you decide to travel, you will be fully escorted at all times by two local guides and you are not free to wander around on your own. This is all part of what makes travelling in North Korea so unique. Our DPRK tours are packed to the brim with fascinating and unique experiences, so most people find that these rules don’t detract from their enjoyment in any way.

C A N I TA K E P H O T OGR A P H S O R V IDE O S ? Of course – the majority of photographs within this guide were taken by our very own Carl Meadows. You can, however, only take photographs or video footage where permitted. On arrival in North Korea your guides will clarify the current rules on photography as these are in a constant state of flux. It is very important that you obey these rules for your own safety and that of our guides. Generally speaking, it is best to seek guidance before taking pictures of soldiers or at military checkpoints.

W H AT I S T H E F OO D L IK E ? As an honoured guest in North Korea, you will be extremely well fed. Our tours include three meals a day, with breakfast normally always taken at the hotel, and lunch and dinner taken in a variety of restaurants and hotels depending on availability. Meals are traditionally Korean, with a great selection of dishes to choose from, including things like bulgogi (barbequed beef), bibimbap (rice with vegetables) and kimchi (spicy fermented vegetables). Dietary requirements are well catered for, and vegetarians, vegans or gluten-free travellers will not go hungry.

W H AT A R E T H E H O T E L S L IK E ? North Korea is a developing country and you will not find any international five-star accommodation. Hotels are typically of a Soviet-style three-star equivalent, and in rural areas in particular, conditions can be basic. However, recently some decent hotels have started to open up across the country – often in quite bizarre locations. In Pyongyang things have come a long way, and while standards may not be comparable to the rest of Asia or Europe, the hotels we use typically offer a range of facilities from bowling alleys to swimming pools and karaoke rooms, as well as bars, restaurants and shops.

W H AT I S T H E L OC A L CU R R E N CY ? The currency in North Korea is the won, comprised of 100 jon. The won is a closed currency, and can only legally be obtained inside the country. However, it’s actually unlikely that you will ever use any won, as tourist transactions are normally conducted in euros, US dollars or Chinese yuan. Credit cards and travellers cheques are also not accepted. As our tours include all of your main services and meals, cash is only required for additional purchases like souvenirs or drinks: most people find around €40 per day more than enough.

H O W DO I F IN D OU T M O R E ? Full details of all our group tours, including scheduled departure dates and prices, can be found online at www.regentholidays.co.uk/DPRK. Our North Korea Travel Specialists are a mine of information, and are happy to chat at length about your travel plans or answer any questions you may have. They can also email or post you our in-depth North Korea travel notes that cover everything you need to know in great detail. Call us on 020 7666 1258 to request a copy. Follow our dedicated North Korea Facebook page @DPRKTravel for the latest travel tales.

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CARL MEADOWS

EXPERT ON A SECRET WORLD Carl Meadows joined Regent Holidays in 2004 and was lucky enough to have his first taste of North Korea the following year: he was instantly hooked. Having now visited over 20 times, spending more than eight months on DPRK soil and working closely with the Koreans to help open up and develop many sites for foreign visitors, Carl is one of the UK’s leading experts on the country; often called upon by the BBC, Sky News and the national press to comment on tourism, culture and current affairs.

first visited the DPRK in spring 2005. At the time there was very little information out there, and much of this so-called ‘information’ was vague, inaccurate or just plain false – an issue that still prevails today. So my whirlwind week in Korea was a complete eye-opener. I have since visited many other nations for the first time, but nowhere, absolutely nowhere, has so totally enthralled me as that first trip to North Korea. It is a fascinating, bizarre, confusing country that I could take a thousand adjectives to only start describing, but if I had just two words, I would say it is a ‘parallel universe’. In 2005 the national carrier, Air Koryo, still issued old fashioned paper tickets, so we would have the air tickets either couriered to the UK or collect them in person from the Korean Embassy in Beijing. The tickets themselves were usually

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littered with spelling mistakes but were always honoured at checkin. Air Koryo were not even fully computerised – I recall trying to check-in with one of our groups at Beijing, with the lady at the desk insisting that our party had no reservations. After a few nervous minutes and some expensive phone calls, a member of staff pulled out a scrap of paper with our names handwritten, in pencil, onto the sheet. Visas, too, were far slower in coming through than they are today, and the London Embassy would often meticulously query visa applicants’ job titles or personal details. Trying to explain to somebody who has never used the internet and has limited English exactly what a Digital PR Strategist does is really not that easy. So, back to that first visit. At the time, spending around ten days in North Korea allowed you to visit

Image: Carl Meadows in privately-chartered helicopter to Mt. Myohyang

The following is adapted from a presentation given by Carl at the Royal Geographical Society in 2016.

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tour group was Elvis Presley, or watch a man – who had clearly never seen a foreigner in his life – fall off his bike in shock. Now, you may assume that North Korea is not somewhere one would go for a comfortable trip. But this is actually slowly changing. The hotels used to be akin to tired, Soviet, three-star lodgings at best, but of late some decent hotels have started to open up across the country – often in quite bizarre locations. The food has significantly improved too, and the selection of restaurants, particularly in Pyongyang, grows wider all the time.

T R AV E L L E R S IN T E R E S T E D IN A C T U A L LY S E E IN G T H E CO U N T R Y C A N N O W E X P E R IE N CE S O M U CH MORE THAN EVER BEFORE. In fact, Pyongyang has come a long way in the last few years, and there has been something of a construction boom in the capital. This started at the tail end of the last decade with the government striving to beautify the city

cannot be truly understood. Visiting is the best way to try and get your head around the place – but it could well leave you, like me, more confused than ever before.”

Carl Meadows North Korea Travel Specialist

Image: Myohyang Train Attendant

Image: Chongjin Trolleybus

all that was permitted or possible. The guides would compile reports on the ideology of the group, try to engage in complex political discussion on Marxist-Leninism and strictly monitor our photography and movements. Nearly everybody would be wearing a uniform of some kind, and besides propaganda books there was almost nothing available in the shops. And whilst the guides – much like the DPRK in general – seemed to have this cold exterior, it became quite obvious after just a few hours that they, and almost every Korean once encountered, were friendly, interesting and just plain nice. Putting politics to one side, they are good-humoured people, with a rich history, fascinating culture and, deep down, pretty much the same aspirations that I imagine most of us strive for. The itineraries that we were able to offer were more restricted than today, but quite often, the highlight – then and now – was not simply the ‘sights’, but the unscheduled encounters and experiences along the way. Where else could you have a guide who thought a member of the

for April 2012 – the 100th anniversary of the birth of President Kim Il Sung. Under Kim Jong Un, the pace seems to be speeding up, with developments appearing across the capital, from water parks and funfairs to high rise apartment blocks. There are now even taxis to be seen across the city and all manner of what is essentially private enterprise (under the guise of state ownership) creeping in. Until a few years ago the Koreans seemed to focus tourism efforts on Pyongyang, trying to attract visitors with large-scale events such as the now defunct Arirang Mass Games: a jawdropping, mass gymnastics display with 100,000 performers. But whilst the DPRK previously used foreign tourists chiefly as a propaganda tool, they have come to realise that hard currency holds more value – travellers interested in actually seeing the country can now experience so much more than ever before. Recent Regent trips have included chartering helicopters and trains to reach Mt. Myohyang, boats to cruise from Nampo along the Taedong River estuary and all manner of public transport adventures in Pyongyang. Our first regular charter flight within the country comprised of a one-night trip to Mt. Paekdu, whereas we now often charter aircraft for up to a week to travel around the more remote corners of the country, previously inaccessible to tourists. In order to get these new tours off the ground I spend a lot of my days in laboured talks back and forth with the Koreans, and for every fascinating site we add to the itinerary there are a couple of duff options: I am not a fan of the Oun Revolutionary Site – a very large and very sombre museum dedicated to Kim Jong Il’s brief national service – but thoroughly enjoyed the VIP treatment as I was escorted around a fertiliser factory by 11 people. Bonkers. This nation has the habit of getting under one’s skin – it certainly has mine. People have been forecasting the fall of the system for the past 30 years, and could well be doing so for 30 years to come. The country cannot be truly explained, cannot be accurately described,

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SPECIAL EVENTS &

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Image: Party Founding Day celebration

NATIONAL HOLIDAYS orth Korea observes over 70 national holidays, with special celebrations often taking place in Pyongyang or countrywide to mark the most significant. Many of our group tours are planned to coincide with one of the major holidays, in the hope that you will be able to experience the pomp and ceremony of an important anniversary, North Korea-style. We say ‘hope’, because when it comes to the DPRK, no one knows exactly what will take place on any given national holiday. The logistics and nature of celebrations are normally only confirmed on the day, and we then aim to put you in the right place at the right time, with our local guides doing their utmost to get you to the heart of the action if and when possible. Holiday celebrations can be rather varied – the atmosphere may simply be more relaxed, with families in colourful national dress picnicing in the park, or you may be lucky enough to witness one of the incredible city square parades or mass dancing extravaganzas. It’s quite common for special sporting events or orchestra, opera and circus performances to transpire, and more often than not we are able to get tickets at the eleventh hour, with the cost payable locally on the day.

H O L ID AY C A L E N D A R 1st January New Year’s Day 16th February Day of the Shining Star Kim Jong Il’s Birthday (1942) 15th April Day of the Sun Kim Il Sung’s Birthday (1912) 25th April Armed Forces Day (1932) 1st May May Day 27th July Victory Day (1953) 15th August National Liberation Day (1945) 9th September National Foundation Day (1948) 10th October Party Founding Day (1945)

TA K E N O T E O F L A N D M A R K A N NI V E R S A R Y Y E A R S – L IK E 2 018 : T H E 70 T H A N NI V E R S A R Y O F N AT IO N A L F OU N D AT IO N D AY – W H E N CE L E B R AT IO N S A R E O F T E N O N A GR A N DE R S C A L E .

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4 -7 DAY S MAX GROUP SIZE: 16

NORTH KOREA

FOUNDATION TOURS Our Foundation Tours offer travellers with a limited amount of time, the opportunity to experience the weird and wonderful world of North Korea. Typically ranging from four to seven days, these short tours pack in the highlights of Pyongyang and the DPRK’s southwest. Depending on the tour duration, the season or any national holidays, Foundation Tours can include some – or all – of these unconventional and unforgettable sights. Head online for departure dates and full itineraries.

Image: Pyongyang Metro

Image: View over Kim Il Sung Square to Juche Tower

PYONGYANG

J U CH E TOWER

GR A N D P E O P L E ’ S STUDY HOUSE

M A N S U D A E GR A N D MONUMENT

Monument to the Juche Idea – the official state ideology of national self-reliance – this 170-metre tower was constructed using 25,550 blocks: one for every day of Kim Il Sung’s life on his 70th birthday. Those who wish can pay a small fee and take a lift to the top for spectacular views over the city.

This traditional-style Korean building was constructed in the 1980s; another grand gesture to commemorate the 70th birthday of the Eternal Leader. Now home to the national library, travellers with Regent Holidays can see a handful of the 600 impressive rooms that are said to contain some 30 million books.

Millions of Koreans visit Mansudae Hill annually to pay their respects at the mighty 20-metre bronze statues of Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il. Travellers with Regent Holidays are no exception; expect to lay a wreath of flowers at the foot of the statues before bowing in unison before them, alongside loyal locals.

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CI T Y WA L K S

P Y O N GYA N G METRO

K U M S U S A N PA L A CE OF THE SUN

Contrary to popular belief, it is possible for foreigners to explore parts of the capital on foot – alongside our local guides of course. Regent’s most popular city walk winds its way to the vast Kim Il Sung Square: backdrop to the DPRK’s renowned military parades. A stop at the Foreign Language Bookshop provides the opportunity to buy unique souvenirs such as propaganda posters and history books.

One of the deepest metro systems in the world, the capital’s underground stations are also some of the most elaborate; bejewelled with lavish chandeliers and colourful propaganda-style murals. Regent clients will travel one stop from Puhung to Yonggwang – the two most impressive stations – before riding four stops to Kaeson and surfacing beside the Arch of Triumph.

Former residence of Kim Il Sung, this grand building is now the mausoleum of both the Eternal President and his son. Clients are required to dress smartly to view the embalmed bodies of the former leaders lying in state. There’s also the opportunity to admire their portraits with infamous Communist leaders from around the globe and browse exhibits showcasing the numerous medals of honour bestowed upon them.

DID Y OU K N O W ? There’s more to Pyongyang than monuments and museums. You’ll most likely have a beer or two at a bar or microbrewery, grab a cappuccino at the Vienna Coffee House, relax alongside picnicking families in Moranbong Park or even challenge the locals to a game of ping pong!

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E X P E C T T O L AY A W R E AT H OF F L O W E R S AT T H E F OO T OF T H E S TAT UE S B E F OR E B O W ING IN UNI S ON B E F OR E T H E M .

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Image: Mansudae Grand Monument

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MOUNTAIN & COAST IN T E R N AT IO N A L F R IE N D S HIP E X HIBI T IO N

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Image: Mount Myohyang

One hundred and fifty kilometres north of the capital, in giant caves blasted into the Myohyang Mountains, is the country’s most outlandish attraction. The International Friendship Exhibition is a vast underground complex housing thousands of gifts presented to the Kims, from a stuffed crocodile holding a drinks tray to armoured limousines gifted by Stalin.

POHYON TEMPLE

WEST SEA B A R R A GE

Founded in 1024, this Myohyang mountainside temple was one of the most important centres of Buddhism in Korea. Despite its peaceful origin however, it became a stronghold for warrior monks during the Imjin Wars and a regular bomb target during the Korean War. Today, our travellers appreciate the tranquil setting and decorative arts: a world away from Pyongyang.

Spanning an impressive eight kilometres across the estuary of the Taedong River, the West Sea Barrage (or Nampo Dam) took the Korean People’s Army five years to construct – under the direction of the Great and Dear Leaders of course. On occasion, Regent Holidays are even able to charter a private boat, sailing from Nampo down to the barrage itself, for a unique perspective on this ambitious project.

Image: Nampo Port

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NORTH HWANGHAE PROVINCE DMZ

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Image: Guard at the DMZ

The Korean Demilitarised Zone serves as a countrywide buffer between North and South. The Joint Security Area at Panmunjom offers a compelling insight into one of the world’s most sensitive borders, explained by our military guides on a tour of the Armistice Talks’ Hall and the infamous blue huts that straddle the Military Demarcation Line – all under the watchful eye of South Korean soldiers.

T O M B O F K IN G K O N G MIN

K O R Y O HI S T O R Y MUSEUM

One of the 12 UNESCO-listed components that make up the Historic Monuments and Sites in Kaesong, this rural 14th century mausoleum, guarded by statues of Confucian officials, is the last resting place of King Kongmin (31st king of the Koryo dynasty) and his wife, the Mongolian princess Queen Noguk. A surprise reminder of ancient Korea and a beautiful rural setting.

Just 16 kilometres from the DMZ, the former Koryo dynasty capital of Kaesong is home to North Korea’s greatest collection of cultural artefacts. Housed in a UNESCOprotected site – once the Confucian academy – the Koryo History Museum is also one of our favourite spots to buy souvenirs, with the gift shop stocking a fantastic selection of stamps and postcards.

Image: DMZ Joint Security Area

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HILARY BRADT

ESCAPE TO THE COUNTRY Founder of Bradt Travel Guides, Hilary Bradt, got her first taste of the DPRK on our Pioneering North Korea tour. In this edited extract, from an article originally published in the May 2017 issue of Wanderlust travel magazine, she discovers that there’s more to the People’s Republic than monuments and mausoleums.

Image: Hilary Bradt at Janggun Peak

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azing out to sea, I saw a sweep of ochre sand curve away under steep, pleated cliffs to reveal a private beach. Beyond that lay an island reached via a raised concrete walkway, its path edged with pink daisies that attracted fluttering swallowtail butterflies and leading to a viewpoint that looked out over distant headlands and hidden coves. There was no need to stake our claim with towels: our small group were the only guests. The east coast of North Korea was not what I expected, but then not much of what I saw and experienced here was. Who would have thought that people would smile and return our waves from the bus? That the food would be so tasty, or that Pyongyang would have its own beer festival? No one goes to North Korea oblivious of the politics or the unique way that tourists are expected to behave. So I was somewhat disarmed at the airport to meet our smiling, joking North Korean guide (known here as Guide 1), who would accompany our English leader, Carl. Guide 1 quietly reassured us that, although you can get into trouble in North Korea, it only happens to those who

W E F L E W T H E R E IN A R U S S I A N B UILT H E L ICO P T E R F I T T E D OU T W I T H F L O R A L C A R P E T S , F L OCK WA L L PA P E R A N D A R M CH A IR S . seek it out. Part of the Korean guide’s job was to ensure that visitors were treated as – and behaved as – honoured guests. Our initial excursion outside the capital took us some 150 kilometres north of Pyongyang to Mount Myohyang. This historic peak has long held sacred significance for Koreans, from when it was better known for its ancient Buddhist temple, before the two enormous caves that were later burrowed into its side to house a collection of gifts presented to the country’s communist leaders. We had chosen to arrive in style. Rather than face the long bus journey endured by most visitors, we flew there in a Russianbuilt helicopter fitted out with floral carpets, flock wallpaper and armchairs with lace headrest cloths. It deposited us what seemed a world away from the

skyscrapers of the big city, with views of forested hills cut by a meandering river. The relatively modest entrance to Myohyang’s museum came as a surprise after the heroic buildings of the capital. It was then that I noticed its soldier guards were carrying silver-plated Kalashnikovs – normal service duly resumed. Inside, over 150 rooms stored some 71,000 gifts, ranging from an exquisitely carved mammoth tusk from Siberia to a defiant rhino horn courtesy of Zimbabwean leader Robert Mugabe. Items of outrageous kitsch gifted by minor dictators mixed with more practical stuff, like binoculars, computers and even an entire aeroplane. And the pièce de résistance: a plate commemorating the 10th anniversary of the miners’ strike from the Socialist Labour Party of Great Britain.

Image: International Friendship Exhibition, Mt. Myohyang

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Image: Soldiers enjoying downtime at Lake Chon, Mt. Paekdu

T H E M O U N TA IN I S A L S O A N A C T I V E V O L C A N O , T H O U GH I T S L A S T E R U P T IO N WA S A R O U N D 1, 0 0 0 Y E A R S A GO . Our circuit of the country’s northern region by charter plane and bus began with a stop at Mount Paekdu, the peninsula’s highest point and one of the DPRK’s most revered sites. The roads, which looked so smooth from the air, were actually full of potholes so our bus journey was slow, which suited me fine. Oxcarts ambled past us, bicycles were heaped with seemingly impossible numbers of sacks, and every roof of the neat workers’ cottages we passed provided space for hardening maize cobs, while side roads and pavements were carpeted with grain drying in the sun. North Koreans come to Mount Paekdu on organised trips to see where their story began. It was here, history tells them, that guerrilla fighters, under the leadership of the DPRK’s founding father, Kim Il Sung, took the fight to Japan’s occupying forces, and where Kim

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Jong Il, his son and future leader, was born. The mountain is also an active volcano, though its last eruption was around 1,000 years ago. Some of us hiked through the chill wind and climbed a jagged circle of eroded lava pyramids and spikes to the highest point, Janggun Peak (2,750 metres), which is crowned by a concrete slab daubed with Korean lettering. “No, don’t sit!” shrieked our guide when someone tried to clamber on top for a photo. It was easy in the DPRK to unwittingly cause offence; we soon realised that every inscription was some reference to one of the Dear Leaders. Below us lay the impossibly blue crater lake, Chon. At 2,190 metres, this is one of the world’s highest crater lakes, and can be reached by a flight of 2,160 steps – a tacit reference to the date of Kim Jong Il’s birthday (16th February) – or more comfortably by cable car. The following day, we started our journey to the country’s far northeast, first flying to Orang, a military airport on the eastern coast where we spotted a row of MiG fighter jets lined up on the runway, then onwards by bus to Chongjin; an industrial port and not a natural tourist destination. But at the Chongjin Foreign

Image: Rimyongsu Falls

Language Institute we opened the door to lights and laughter. The classroom was full of girls, all longing to talk to us in English. They drew their pets for us and told us stories, and the relaxed jollity made it one of the most memorable moments of the trip. After flying and bussing the length of the country, we spent our final days in the southeast, a region justly popular with North Korean tourists. It could have been anywhere in the world as I enjoyed a pre-breakfast swim in the sea at Majon, before heading south to the place I’d looked forward to the most. Koreans (on

both sides of the divide) are rightly proud of Mount Kumgang. Its forested peaks, lakes, rivers and waterfalls compete with any in Europe, and its position near the border encouraged authorities in more peaceful times to develop it for South Korean tourists. Alas, as tension between the two Koreas increased, the plan was abandoned. Today, the Kumgang region is open to tourism from within the DPRK, and after the less plush north, it was refreshing to find hotels with hot water, 24-hour electricity and other comforts. As I started up the stone-paved path of Kuryong Waterfall, I met a steady flow of Korean hikers coming down. Higher up, the flow of hikers merged with the stream of water finding its way down the path and over the top of my boots. I did my best to appreciate the mist-obscured scenery and imagine the magnificent granite peaks I’d seen in photos. The vigorous waterfall at the top was no less impressive, and very different from the elegant ribbon of water depicted on most postcards. By this point, I felt I’d earned lunch, and the warm, steamy café at the bottom of the mountain, where our meat was cooked on hot stones, was sublime.

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Image: Jandok Islet

I R E F L E C T E D O N H O W R E F R E S HIN G I T WA S N O T T O B E T HIN K IN G A B OU T T H AT P E R F E C T P H O T O , B U T J U S T T O E N J O Y IN T E R A C T IN G W I T H THE PEOPLE

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Image: Border guard on Mt. Paekdu

It was a sparklingly sunny day as we left for Wonsan the following morning, and Carl had suggested we make a brief stop to walk along a causeway to Jandok Islet. Locals were out in large numbers to enjoy themselves after several days of wind and rain. We had been asked not to take photos of the people, so instead I practised my Korean on the family groups that were cooking the fish they’d just caught. They returned the greetings, sitting in laughing circles on the rocks, eating their fried catch with kimchi. I reflected on how

refreshing it was not to be thinking about that perfect photo, but just to enjoy interacting with the people – something many visitors don’t realise is possible on trips here. North Korea sometimes lives up to expectations, but much more often than not it confounds them. The country is changing. Every year, more of its impressive landscape is opened up to tourism, but one thing’s for certain: a trip here is utterly, memorably unique, and not many countries can genuinely make that claim.

This article was adapted from Wanderlust, the UK’s leading magazine for adventurous travellers. For more trip inspiration written by top travel writers, take advantage of their six months for £5 subscription offer at www.wanderlust-magazine.co.uk/trial-offer.

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8 -18 D AY S MAX GROUP SIZE: 16

EXPLORER &

PIONEERING TOURS

Image: Local guide at Paekdu Secret Camp

Our longer Explorer Tours (one to two weeks) and Pioneering Tours (two weeks plus) push the boundaries of tourism in North Korea, often chartering planes, trains and automobiles to reach some of the DPRK’s least visited towns and cities. After delving into the classic sights of Pyongyang and the southwest, these groundbreaking tours venture to some – or all – of these intrepid, off-the-beaten-track destinations. Head online for departure dates and full itineraries.

M OU N T K U M G A N G

WONSAN

M OU N T PA E K DU

Originally designated a special tourist zone for travellers from the South, spectacularly beautiful Mount Kumgang was off limits to overseas tourists for many years, only ‘opening’ to our travellers in 2010. The stunning scenery is a far cry from the industrial towns and cities often associated with North Korea: towering granite peaks; steep forested ravines; beautiful coastal lagoons and giant shimmering waterfalls. We allow for plenty of trekking opportunities, from three or four-hour guided hikes to short mountain strolls, with two days to explore.

One hundred and twenty kilometres further up the east coast is the beach resort and port city of Wonsan – one of the best places in the DPRK to mingle with local people. Cultural encounters here can include learning about rural life at a cooperative farm, perusing the local gallery and art shop, visiting Songdowon International Schoolchildren’s Camp and watching locals at play on Jangdok Islet. When exploring Wonsan, we often head into the mountains to stay at Masikryong Hotel – one of the best hotels in the country.

On the border between North Korea and China, the highest peak on the Korean peninsula is a place of deep spiritual significance. Regent clients can expect to arrive in Soviet style on a charted vintage aircraft, most likely an Antonov 24. Travellers can trek up to Korea’s highest point, Janggun Peak at 2,750 metres, or head down the 2,160 steps to the shore of the vast crater lake, Chon. A visit to Paekdu Secret Camps, an important base of the Korean People’s Army until 1943, gives an insight into the country’s revolutionary history.

Image: Local celebrations in Wonsan www.regentholidays.co.uk/DPRK

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CH O N G JIN

HAMHUNG

O B S CU R E & M O R E

Our charter flight into the military airport at Orang provides a truly unique welcome into North Hamgyong Province, with MiG fighter jets often seen in the air and on the tarmac. Very few foreign visitors make it as far as the provincial capital, Chongjjn: a city closer to Vladivostok than Pyongyang.

Our hotel in the coastal city of Hamhung is one of the best in North Korea, originally intended just for Korean VIPs and only allowing foreign visitors from 2014. Here, we tend to enjoy a far more leisurely pace of life, with plenty of free time to make use of the hotel’s lovely private beach and range of facilities, including the swimming pool, bowling alley and numerous bars and restaurants.

If you’re travelling on one of our longer Pioneering tours, you’ll most likely explore one or two obscure destinations rarely visited – even by Regent clients. Places like remote Mount Chilbo (a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve) and its 9th century Buddhist temple, the tech-focussed space and science hub of Pyongsong, or the farflung port town of Rajin on the border with Russia and China. Here, the unique Rason Special Economic Zone is almost like another country, welcoming foreign investment and trade. Our highlight is a visit to the fascinating Rason Market – the only market in the DPRK open to tourists – where Chinese yuan is the currency of choice.

Our unique access allows us to take a behind the scenes tour at the Susongchon Combined Foodstuffs Factory, enjoy a visit to the Steelworkers’ Kindergarten, explore the city by private trolleybus, dine at the Foreign Sailors’ Club and even sample the local beer at the hotel’s very own microbrewery. 32

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Hamhung is the DPRK’s second largest city, and our varied explorations take us from the enormous Hungnam Fertiliser Factory to the historic home of Ri Song Gye, 14th century founder of the Ri dynasty.

Image: Hungnam Fertliser Factory

Image: Chongjin Foreign Sailors’ Club

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SPECIAL INTEREST &

PRIVATE TOURS FOR TR ANSPORT BUFFS

F O R AV I AT IO N A DDIC T S

F O R S P O R T S & O U T DOO R S ENTHUSIASTS

Ask us about incorporating unique transport options into your tailormade itinerary. You could take an in-depth tour of the Pyongyang metro system, travel by vintage bus or tram, or discover historic engines at the National Railway Museum. With some meticulous planning, it’s possible to travel by train to Sinuiju or up the east coast towards Russia.

Ask us about incorporating a range of unique aerial experiences into your tailor-made itinerary, like an incredible scenic flight over the Pyongyang cityscape in a Mil Mi-17 helicopter. Larger groups can take to the skies in a range of chartered vintage Antonov, Tupelov or Ilyushin aircraft, accessing the far-flung reaches of North Korea in true Soviet style.

Ask us about dedicated sports tours or incorporating a sporting event into your tailor-made itinerary. You could play 18 holes at the Pyongyang Golf Course, train with the masters at a Taekwondo academy, conquer the slopes at Masikryong Ski Resort or walk the path less travelled on a trekking tour of the stunning Myohyang or Kumgang mountains.

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Image: Pyongyang Metro

Image: Pyongyang trolleybus driver and inspector

While it isn’t possible to explore North Korea independently, Regent Holidays do offer a tailor-made travel service for those wishing to tread their own path. Our North Korea experts are a mine of specialist information, putting together a broad spectrum of itineraries for private clients and groups who want to tailor their own trip – whether that be to indulge a special interest in Soviet-era turboprops or to spend Christmas in Pyongyang. All alongside two local guides of course. If there’s something you’re interested in, just ask. Our long-term relationship with the DPRK means that we’re often able to negotiate ‘firsts’. Even if it’s never been done before, we’ll try and make it happen.

I F T H E R E ’ S S O M E T HING Y OU ’ R E IN T E R E S T E D IN , JU S T A S K . E V E N IF I T ’ S N E V E R B E E N DON E B E F OR E , W E ’ L L T R Y A N D M A K E IT HAPPEN. www.regentholidays.co.uk/DPRK

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Tumen Yanji

RUSSIA

Vladivostok

Namyang Hunchun Khasan

PAEKDU & THE NORTH EAST

Hoeryong

Fly by chartered Soviet aircraft to Mt. Paekdu and trek to the impressive crater lake of Korea’s highest mountain. Get an insight into the revolution at Paekdu Secret Camps, headquarters of Kim Il Sung and his army until 1943.

CHINA NORTH WEST & MYOHYANG

Tumangang

260km to Ussuriysk 9,189km onwards to Moscow

Rajin

Mt. Paekdu Samjiyon

Admire the stunning landscape of Mt. Myohyang; biosphere reserve and sacred Buddhist site. Visit the bizarre International Friendship Exhibition, home to thousands of weird and wacky artefacts gifted to the Kims by foreign dignitaries.

Chongjin Orang

East coast

PYONGYANG Discover the living monument to communism that is North Korea’s capital. See the former leaders lying in state, travel with locals on the elaborate metro system and learn about the Juche Idea at the Grand People’s Study House.

Mt. Chilbo

NORTH KOREA

1,120km to Beijing Sinuiju

Step firmly off the beaten track with an exploration of the industrial cities and beach resorts of the DPRK’s East Sea coast. Rarely seen by foreign tourists, factory tours and school visits here offer an incredible insight into local life.

Huichon

Dandong Mt. Myohyang

KOREA BAY

Hamhung Pyongsong

PYONGYANG

EAST SEA OF KOREA (SEA OF JAPAN)

Wonsan Nampo Masikryong Ski Resort 38th Parallel

DMZ & SOUTH WEST Travel along the Reunification Highway to the North-South border and tour the infamous DMZ and Armistice Talks’ Hall with an army escort. Stop at the 14th century UNESCO treasures of Kaesong, guarded by Confucian statues.

WEST SEA OF KOREA 36

(YELLOW SEA) Regent Holidays

Mt. Kumgang

Sariwon

Haeju

Kaesong DMZ/Panmunjom

SEOUL

SOUTH KOREA www.regentholidays.co.uk/DPRK

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ALTERNATIVE IS OUR

MIDDLE NAME

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK TURKMENISTAN

ACROSS SIBERIA ON THE BAM RAILWAY

PIONEERING ABKHAZIA

CULTURAL L ANDSCAPES OF WESTERN UKRAINE

A HISTORY OF STALINGRAD

PIONEERING NAGORNO K ARABAKH

Find these alternative tours and more at

W W W.REGENTHOLIDAYS.CO.UK 38

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Image: Poster in Hoeryong School

At Regent Holidays, we’ve always done things differently. Our pioneering travels take us to the ancient monasteries of Kosovo, the volcanoes of Russia’s Kamchatka Peninsula and the wine cellars of Moldova. We love destinations that are quirky, off-the-beaten-track and downright unusual. But we don’t need to tell you that – you’re reading our North Korea brochure.

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Experience is everything

Colston Tower, Colston Street, Bristol, BS1 4XE 020 7666 1258 | regent@regentholidays.co.uk | www.regentholidays.co.uk