SOUTHWEST INDIA: A MOVEABLE FEAST
AUTHOR: Lois Olive Gray Photos: Kay Ellen Gilmour, MD Travel Website: https://kaygilmour.smugmug.com/
January 8 to January 24, 2017 Zegrahm Expeditions Table of Contents FEASTS FOR THE WILDLIFE WATCHER .............................................................................................. 1 The Backwaters of Kerala............................................................................................................... 1 Periyar National Park ...................................................................................................................... 2 Bandipur National Park .................................................................................................................. 4 Nagarhole National Park ................................................................................................................ 5 Ranganathittu Waterbird Sanctuary............................................................................................. 6 FEASTS FOR HISTORY and CULTURE BUFFS .................................................................................... 7 Kochi (Cochin) .................................................................................................................................. 7 Ootacamund ................................................................................................................................. 13 Mysore ........................................................................................................................................... 15 MIXED CULTURAL OBSERVATIONS ................................................................................................ 18 Traffic ................................................................................................................................................. 18 Clothing.......................................................................................................................................... 18 Architecture................................................................................................................................... 18 Education....................................................................................................................................... 19 FEASTS FOR FOODIES ...................................................................................................................... 20 FEASTS FOR THE COMFORT LOVERS ............................................................................................. 23 Fernhills Royale Palace ................................................................................................................ 24 The Brunton Boatyard Hotel ...................................................................................................... 27 CONCLUSION .................................................................................................................................... 28
FEASTS FOR THE WILDLIFE WATCHER Though we have explored several different parts of the big and varied country of India, the Southwest Coast (Kerala State) has not been one of them, so when the brochure inviting us to join Zegrahm on a visit to this area appeared in our mailbox, it was irresistible. When the chance, though slim, to see wild tigers again was thrown in as a lure, there was no way we were going to miss this trip. And we are happy we did not because we found that the trip offered unexpectedly different sorts of “feasts.” Three different National Parks, a special bird sanctuary, and the famous “backwaters” of Kerala assured that we would see birds, mammals, reptiles, butterflies, and fascinating insects. So here’s a discussion of the special places in the order we saw them.
The Backwaters of Kerala Because these backwaters are actually canals, lakes, and channels (Vembanad Lake and the Alleppy Canal), they are located in a quite cultivated area. Four rivers feed the waters we explored. Dwellings, farm buildings, rice paddies, pastures, duck farms, commerce, and temples all cover the shores of the waters in which we wandered on a very comfortable houseboat called the Oberoi M/V Vrinda. It was plain to us why Kerala is called the “Rice Bowl of India” since even though palm trees were everywhere along the banks, the rice paddies were the most compelling sights because they were such a vivid green. While we did spy many domesticated animals like dogs, cats, goats, ducks and cattle, the only wild creatures we saw were birds, primarily shorebirds. An odd and unlikely sight we saw was the silvery palm fronds waving lazily in the light winds. We asked if the palms were a different variety than we were used to seeing in Southeast Asia, but our guides explained that there are so many roosting birds in these backwaters that it is their guano that turns the leaves this rather attractive color. Another source of a distinct color was the shiny tassels that the farmers placed all over their rice paddies in an effort to repel the birds. Though the little ribbons shimmered and sparkled in the fields, the birds were also in the fields; we supposed that they had gotten used to them and were unafraid.
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We were never disappointed with birds. Some of the species we saw and photographed were: Oriental Darters, Little Egrets (similar to our snowy egrets), Whistling Ducks, Black Stilts, Pond Herons, Glossy Ibis, Whiskered Terns, Horn-billed Kingfishers (quite a treat), Purple Heron, and Asian Open-billed Stork. Even some songbirds flitted about: Blue-tailed Bee Eaters, Black Drongos, and Red-Vented Bulbuls. Occasionally, a Brahmin Kite would fly over our heads to remind us that there were predators around. A photo album of the listed birds are on our website https://kaygilmour.smugmug.com/Asia/Birds-of-India Another unexpected beautiful thing we observed was the use of teak wood in the window frames and doors of most of the houses along the backwaters. We think of teak as being so expensive that only the very rich could use that wood on the outside of a building. But even modest homes in Kerala were decorated with these beautiful wood products— elaborately carved doors and carefully matched window frames. Really very handsome. This was also a testament to the readily available teak wood in the past. Not so true today since more teak is exported than used locally these days. The Kerala area provided other treats as well which will be presented in the appropriate “feast” section: such as foods, cultural activities (music and dance) and even some history. The shore life of the local people blends seamlessly with that of the lake: fishing, bathing, preparing food, doing dishes, washing clothes, and transporting goods, bus services and school children.
Periyar National Park After leaving our waterborne explorations in Kerala, we drove up into the Western Ghats (low mountain range) of Kerala to visit Periyar National Park. Our only “safaris” here were also on water. The park provides large boats that go out on the central lake to look for animals and birds on the shore, so we were limited by what appeared as we floated past. Another problem was that the water levels were so low that the regular safaris were somewhat truncated. But what we saw was rich enough! All of the national parks (and the surrounding terrain as well) are very dry since the rains last year were not particularly full and this year’s summer rainy season has not yet arrived.
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It was reassuring that all the parks create and fill water sources for the wildlife during the dry season. The other plague that the parks are suffering is the rampant growth of lantana. This plant is hardy, prolific and very difficult to eradicate. All the safari road routes we explored were lined with such thick growths of these entangling plants that it was almost impossible to see anything beyond their lines. Mowing had been done to make a deeper swale along the sandy roads so that some birds and animals could be seen in that "proscenium stage." But once the creature fled into the lantana thickets, it disappeared altogether. This condition obtained in Bandipur National Park and Nagarhole National Park in Karnataka state as well. Our first boat ride was at 7 a.m. since the heat of the midday keeps most animals under the sheltering trees and shrubs along the banks. Some of the creatures we saw were the
Wooly-necked Stork,
White-throated Kingfisher,
Great Cormorants, some with chicks in high nests on tree snags and posts in the water,
Gaurs (the enormous Indian wild cattle species,
Nilgiri Hill Langurs (a type of Indian monkey),
Grey-headed Fishing Eagles,
Bonnet Macaques (another species of primate),
Malabar Giant Squirrel (really gigantic with very long and bushy tails), and many small songbirds.
A later boat ride brought us Wild Boars, Sambar deer, Smooth-coated otters, Three-striped squirrels, Asian Elephants (a small herd of 6), and Mongoose. However, our favorite wildlife experience in this area did not happen in Periyar! The first was in the Spice Garden we visited where we were shown the most adorable pair of Indian Scops Owls, sitting close together in a large tree hole. They were sleeping all snug and paid no attention to us at all. Small and brownish-grey with distinctive facial markings, they are quite photogenic.
The other marvel with animals was a flyover by fruit bats that we
watched from the pool area of our hotel. Literally, thousands flew right over our heads as they left their daytime roosts in a nearby forest to begin their night's foraging. We could hear their heavy wings beating and their many sounds of either echolocation or perhaps communication among themselves. The flight took place just as the light failed but we could see them clearly against the dusky-blue night sky. The flight lasted a good 30-45 3
minutes. We estimated their numbers to be well over 2000. It was like a mini-Carlsbad Caverns Mexican Short-tail Bat flight from their cave dwelling. At the spice plantation we visited between morning and afternoon boat rides, we learned something very interesting to most of us. What are the most expensive spices on the world market and where are they grown?
Number 1 is saffron and most of our group knew that
fact. Though the spice comes originally from Southeast Asia, 90% of today’s supply is grown in Iran! Number 2 is vanilla and most of today’s supply comes from Indonesia and Madagascar which are tied in their production. Number 3 is cardamom and Guatemala, India and Sri Lanka are the largest producers.
Bandipur National Park Karnataka state is home to this park and although this one as well as Periyar and the next one, Nagarhole, are all called Tiger Reserves, we knew that our chances of seeing our favorite Indian animal were not higher than 10%. Bandipur National Park exhibited the lantana problem in profusion.
The dusty roads necessitated our wearing face masks
during the long drives. Luckily our guides who live in Japan had thoughtfully brought a big supply of those masks you see Japanese people wearing to prevent the spread of disease. Our safaris in this park brought us views of many of the same creatures we had seen in Periyar, but we were also lucky to see some new birds and animals as well. The best sighting here was of a tiny but multi-colored bird called the Indian Pitta. He is also called the bird of 12 colors quite accurately. His colors are more pastel than our Painted Buntings display. We were assured that spotting one of these is very rare but we saw several of them as the safari days went on. Two new species of deer also appeared: the Chital (or spotted deer) and the very shy Muntjac (also called the barking deer). We saw a female elephant with a youngster and that is always fun to see. Since I love owls, our very close look at the Brown Fishing Owl was also much appreciated. The next morning's safari brought some colorful and exotic birds into view: the Spot-billed ducks, the Painted Storks, Green Sandpipers, an old favorite the Hoopoe, the Indian Mynah, Indian Spotted Eagle, the Plum-headed Parakeet, and the White-breasted Waterhen. There were many other smaller birds—too numerous to mention. No tigers here either.
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Nagarhole National Park This park combines the features of the first two—there are road safaris and boat safaris and we liked the terrain here much better than either of the first two. Nagarhole National Park is also in Karnataka state. Though it is sweltering and dry here too with drooping plants, skeletal trees already sacrificing their leaves, and dead brown grasses, there seemed to be more humidity in the air and the road trips were not nearly as choking to us. Its roads were lined with the ever-encroaching lantana. However, the swales in front of the thick shrubs were broad enough to see any animal that might have wandered out of the underbrush. And the rides that took us towards the rivers were free of the pesky invasive. This was the most rewarding park we visited for all these reasons, plus we had a great and pleasant surprise on our last safari—it was NOT a tiger, however!!! We saw most of the familiar birds and the mammals we were now acquainted with as well. The river safaris were rewarding for the elephants which were quite active as we floated slowly by—trumpeting, running to get into the shallow waters near shore, bathing, and swimming. Then came the dust baths ashore to refresh the insect repelling dust. There were young elephants and older ones too. Great fun to watch them. There were three unique events on the land safaris 1. A pair of Sambar bucks sparring with each other with vigor and strength, pushing one another up and down a small mound around which the females stood and watched the battle. The smaller stag was at one point obviously defeated, and he disappeared into the lantana brush; however, it did not take him long to return for another go. In the end, he had to “cry uncle” and tuck his tail as he went dejectedly back into the welcoming shrubs. 2. Another exciting find was three Indian Golden Jackals—a species we had never seen before on any safaris we had taken previously in any part of India. They resemble jackals all over the world, but their fur coat really does shimmer in gold colors. The three we saw were running along the banks of the Kabini River while we sat in our tourist boat. They looked busy but we never saw what might have been their prey. 3. Our last land safari gave us our greatest disappointment and a compensatory thrill as well. We came upon a safari truck filled with excited tourists. They were laughing and sharing their photos with one another and then with us as we drove up beside 5
them.
They had just seen an enormous male tiger who had moments before
slipped away into the thick underbrush and was now totally invisible. We all felt as dejected as the young Sambar buck who had lost his battle. The guides and driver agreed that it was highly unlikely that this tiger would appear again, but we sat still and quiet to wait patiently in hopes he would make a repeat stroll along the swale. But it was not meant to be and he did not make poor prognosticators of the guides and driver. We drove away with reluctance and in some disappointed silence but in a very few minutes we all spotted an adult male leopard at the base of a large overhanging tree. He was marking his territory and strutting about a bit. Then quite suddenly he leaped onto the trunk and hauled himself up to the first stout parallel branch. He stepped out along the limb, stretched, flattened himself on the branch for a moment or two, and then stood up and posed against the dusky sky in an iconic pose revealing his big size, his muscles and his feline beauty. Cameras were working overtime as he stayed on the perch for about 5 or 6 minutes. Then he clambered down the tree trunk and did his own vanishing act! It is truly amazing how a cat can be perfectly exposed one minute and gone the next. Now our safari truck was filled with delighted voices, happy laughter and many exchanges of looks at camera and cellphone images of our very own extraordinary feline sighting!
Ranganathittu Waterbird Sanctuary Our last but certainly not less rewarding opportunity to explore for wildlife occurred at the Ranganathittu Waterbird Sanctuary.
The sanctuary had initially been created by a
Maharajah of Mysore for his own delight. Canals were dug in a swampy area to divert the water where this wealthy man wanted to create lakes and pools allowing for a beautiful shoreline and even little islets in the lakes and ponds.
The birds now occupying the
preserve (open to the public) are wild but they know a good place to roost, nest and raise their young. So they return year after year.
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There were no unusual birds but the setting was beautiful and filled with numerous birds, many in courtship phases, nesting or even raising their already hatched chicks. A boatman took the 15 of us out in the perfect-sized vessel and he poled and rowed all around the watery "paths." No motor noises and no oily pollution to harm the birds. We quickly spotted the enormous, butter-colored crocodiles lounging on the shores, some with open jaws regulating their body temperatures, others utterly somnolent. How smart of the birds to realize that the crocodiles were not a threat to them since there was plenty of fish available for both avian and reptilian meals. Not a threat at all, but what effective bodyguards for the adult birds and their vulnerable chicks. No small mammals or snakes which might otherwise climb the trees to reach the nests to take either eggs or chicks would dare to be on the ground long enough to reach the tree bases to begin their climbs! We saw unique fishing techniques by the Spot-billed Pelicans: they would fly low over the water, dip those big jaws below the surface and come up with mouthfuls of small fish and other tasty morsels. The painted storks and cormorants fished in their usual fashion, the storks from the shoreline and the cormorants under the waters. This lovely sanctuary was an appropriate last course for the wildlife exploration “feast” of this trip!
FEASTS FOR HISTORY and CULTURE BUFFS India's history is very long and immensely complicated, but we were able to see and understand some little morsels of the local accounts where we visited. Of course, that did not produce a grand understanding of the long course of events in the country's thousands of years of existence. It probably left the history-hungry tourists with us with an appetite for study and more travel in this magnificent and colossal nation.
Kochi (Cochin) This city on the Southwest coast of India on the Arabian Sea is ancient, but it is also the oldest European settlement in India. There have been too many to count local rulers during the city’s past and it was early on the world’s trading map because of the spice trade. The Greek and Romans knew this city and traded with it as did the Jews, Arabs, and Chinese. In more recent times, the Portuguese established hegemony over the area from 1503 to 1663 7
when they were ousted by the Dutch who ruled from 1663 to 1773. The British claimed the whole of India from 1814 to l947 when the Indians gained their Independence. All the traders, occupiers and conquerors have left their marks on the city. On our first day there, we were taken to the now famous Chinese Fishing Nets: large structures consisting of poles which bend to a point, like tent poles. The actual nets are suspended from these poles and there is a counterweight which raises and lowers the nets into the water. Primarily a tourist attraction these days, the structures are still used for fishing.
The
problem now is that though the mechanisms still work as before, the waters have been so over-fished through the centuries that the hauls are too small to be commercially valuable.
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The Church of St. Francis was a temporary resting place for the remains of Vasco da Gama until the Portuguese claimed his body for re-burial in his home country. The site of his original grave is still kept as it was in this church. The church’s other claim to fame is that it is the oldest Christian church in India.
The Jews of the area had a remarkably friendly relationship with local people and there is an ancient synagogue in the city center which is supported by Jewish descendants now living in Israel. At present, there are only 5 members of the congregation. There is a local tradition that the Queen of Sheba in the Bible was born and raised in this area.
The Dutch Palace is indeed a Portuguese palace which was seized by the Dutch and renovated for government use. Today it is a Museum displaying the histories of both European countries' periods of influence in Kerala state. British style residences, government buildings, clubhouses and grounds which barred the locals are testaments to the time of the Raj. Street names, geographical points of interest, and businesses still bear names from the European periods of occupation.
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Kerala is an interesting state in that it has the only democratically elected communist government in the world. This government has ruled continuously since l957 when it was first elected. Christianity and Buddhism are much stronger in this area than is Hinduism. Therefore, we saw no sacred cows crowding the busy streets and beef was advertised and served in restaurants.
Our two-night stay in the Kerala backwaters was on an old houseboat type of vessel called a rice/spice boat. Ours was named the Oberoi M/V Vrinda and it was very comfortable, perfect for our groups of 15.
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We were served delicious Indian cuisine in the dining room. The boats were originally used by local farmers, traders, and vendors first to transport spices and in later years to perform the same function for the rice crops.
While on the estimable Vrinda, we observed more examples of Keralan culture. The first night aboard we were treated to a performance of an ancient form of theater called Kathakali—the stories usually center on the activities of the many Hindu gods and goddesses and men play the parts of both sexes. The story we saw enacted portrayed Krishna in one of his phases interacting with a woman trying to tempt him. The story was reasonably clear from the acting of the accomplished fellows, but it was actually more interesting watching them don the very elaborate costumes they wore and then apply the colorful and dramatic make-up which transformed them into the characters.
It took more than an hour for the men to be ready to perform and the little story lasted about 30 minutes. It was a strange but quite enjoyable taste of the local culture. On another night aboard the Vrinda, we were treated to a concert using traditional regional musical instruments.
Unusual to our ears, the music was
interesting both in the listening and in watching the musicians perform. A long and very slender canoe-like boat called a “snakeboat"
was
another
interesting
piece
of
culture.
Originally these were warships but nowadays when interstate wars have vanished, the ships have become racing vessels with competitions held throughout the area all through the year. Betting on a favorite team is legal and enthusiastically pursued. It is said that Nehru himself is the person who suggested that the boats be converted to racing vessels. All the boats are handcrafted by locals and lovingly 11
cared for. The boats measure 130’ in length and require 105 oarsmen and 5 coxswains. These boats are actually quite handsome! In a tiny village in the Backwaters, we visited a large
Syrian
Christian
church (St. Mary’s Basilica Church) where a betrothal ceremony was occurring. The church was extended and open on the sides to allow some breezes to flow through
the
building—
otherwise, it would have been intolerably hot and sticky inside. The style of the church was somewhat contradictory in that it contained art, statues, iconography and decorative features referencing Christian, Buddhist, and Hindu themes! As an example, the pulpit is shaped like a lotus flower and yet there were crucifixes and stations of the cross. Ecumenism at its best?! It must be a very successful church since there are over 5000 congregants. The betrothal ceremony produced some interesting costumes.
In general, the ladies in attendance wore their best saris, even the younger
women. But the men were clad in denim jeans with pink shirts and ties, including the groom to be. We spent many enjoyable hours slowly cruising the backwaters observing the busy family life along the shoreline. Everyday chores and recreations centered around this waterworld.
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Ootacamund Ootacamund, or "Ooty” as the British called this “hill station” in Tamil Nadu state in Southern India, is built on a hillside and rises over 8000 ft. Thus the British retreated to this and other such stations during the unbearably torrid summers in Madras (now Chennai) and Bangalore. As a matter of fact, my father and aunt were sent to school in Ooty during the time my grandfather served as a medical missionary in those cities. That school still educates young people, but chiefly Indian boys and girls. Breek’s School, as it is still called, also admitted some Indian youths when my relatives attended it. I was glad to see that it has expanded since I first visited it in 2005, looking for and finding documentation of their attendance. There is a large Breek’s Arena not far from the school itself and more outbuildings on the school property. All that is not to say that the local people were not aware of the comforts of an area high enough to boast cooler weather than the plains allowed. The Maharajahs in the area also built “vacation” homes for themselves and their families here as well. As a matter of fact, our hotel during a 2-day stay was an old palace which had been renovated and transformed into a very comfortable and deliciously "over-the-top" tourist accommodation, but more on that later. While we were in Ooty, we could clearly see that the locals also consider it a destination for Indian tourists and vacationers. On the day we went to the highest point in Southern India, Dodda Betta Peak, the crowds which were enormous, consisted of many more Indians than tourists from other parts of the world. 13
We learned that an important local deity was especially celebrated in the state of Tamil Nadu at this time and people were given holidays from work to join in the celebration. That accounted for why there were so many people atop Dodda Betta at 8,652 ft. A thoroughly enjoyable cultural experience we had in Ooty was our Sunday morning visit to the Botanical Gardens. Though the trees, shrubs and flowering plants were mostly in their winter garb, the Gardens were attractively laid out, and the plants displayed to best effect. After we had wandered through, we sat down on a bench with one of our fellows from the trip and started people-watching. So very interesting to see the young families attired in their best clothes exploring the gardens, the older people walking hand in hand talking together quietly, the boisterous teenaged boys rushing about pushing one another and teasing each other unmercifully, the teenage girls looking into their cellphones taking endless selfies.
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Young girls were usually dressed in western apparel where the adult women wore their gorgeous saris, more colorful today than the gardens. Very puzzling but fun were our encounters with so many people who wanted their pictures taken with us. We have seen this phenomenon in other Asian countries but have no explanation for it. The gratifying thing to see was the young fathers and mothers teaching their children good public manners. When we would join a family for a picture as requested, the parents would tell their children to say “thank you” and to ask for the photo with a polite “please.” Indians are a polite society, with smiles for everyone including strangers.
Mysore This seat of one of the wealthiest Maharajahs in Indian history is the 2nd most visited site in all India, second only to the Taj Mahal in Northern India. Though Indira Gandhi abolished the nobility of India and the Mysore Palace is now owned by the state, the current Maharajah retains rights to a designated part of the building for his personal residence. It is a magnificent structure in design and decorations— indeed a fit residence and seat of government for a powerful ruler. At night the Palace is even more spectacular as its roof lines and those of the associated building are lit with millions of white lights for 30 minutes. Thousands of people enter the grounds and wait for the dazzling spectacle to begin. There is an audible “Ahhhh” as the light show begins.
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We were given a guided tour of the rooms open to the public and were properly awed by the grandeur, the luxurious appointments, the brilliant colors displayed in furniture and walls, the flamboyant tile floors, and the monumental and beautiful paintings of scenes from the times when Maharajahs rode elephants through the Elephant Gate to display their wealth and power, attended by hundreds of guards and attendants. What a life those rulers enjoyed!
Above
Mysore
attraction,
but
city
is
another
one
that
also
popular has
tourist
tremendous
importance for Hindu devotees as well—Chamundi Hill. Atop this elevation stands a huge and elaborate Hindu Temple, the Sri Chamundeshwari Shaktipeeth Temple.
The temple is dedicated to Chamundi,
believed to be an incarnation of Parvati, the consort of Shiva.
Non-Hindus are not permitted to enter the
holy interior of the temple which was begun in the 12th century and elaborated through the years with tall tower now seen beginning in the 17th century. The temple now stands at 3489 ft. 16
There is a giant statue of the goddess in fighting form on the route to the temple. Further down the hill is an enormous Nandi Bull, the Mount of Lord Shiva. This colossal granite statue is 15 ft. high and 24 ft. long and its neck is encircled by a necklace of elaborately designed bells.
All along the way up to the temple now are a myriad of businesses: stall offering sacred objects, selling flowers or other offerings to place at the entrance, food for the multitudes of people visiting. There are restaurants and even rooms for rent. It is as busy a place as one could ever see. There are souvenir stands, and of course loose cows and calves all wandering among the teeming crowds. We were amazed once again to see how many more people in India are visiting around their own country. When we visited this same site 15 years ago, there may have been 20 people around us and today there are thousands. There were no shops or restaurants and no hawkers either. What a difference! 17
MIXED CULTURAL OBSERVATIONS Traffic The best description I have heard covering Indian traffic is “controlled chaos!”
The
variety and sheer numbers of vehicles using
the
impossible
inadequate to
roadways
imagine—you
is
must
experience it to believe it. Some recent movies about India have included scenes of the incredible traffic and they are accurate as portrayed in several recent movies
like
“Lion,”
“The
Namesake,”
“Slumdog Millionaire,” the “Marigold Hotel” films and others.
Clothing In cities, most men dress in western style clothing; not necessarily so the women who often wear their traditional saris. In more rural areas, it is possible to see the men in their traditional dress—the dhoti, which is definitely much more sensible dress for the humidity and heat of India. The
wonderfully
colorful
saris
that
women wear are so beautiful that no matter the size, age or shape of the lady wearing one, she looks elegant and lovely.
Architecture Because India has such a long history and so many foreign influences, it is difficult to define Indian architecture simply. And now, of course, there are many modern structures in the larger cities. Probably the Hindu temples, the Muslim mosques and Mughal palaces are the most recognizable styles in the country. Suffice it to say, the buildings are always fascinating from one point of view or another—whether ornate and opulent like maharajah 18
palaces, or sublime like the temples, or even poor and pitiful. There is always something to learn
or
absorb
from
the
buildings
and
other
structures
to
be
seen.
Signage English is an official Indian language and it is taught in all schools. However, some of the signs advertising businesses and products often reveal the idiosyncratic ways Indians use their tongue inherited from the British. Some of them are very funny, others quaint, and some just outrageous to our minds.
St. Mary’s Rubbers (probably tires?)
Jubberish Language Academy (understandable?)
Homey Meals
Dr. Back Sells Mattresses
Merriboys Ice Cream
Holy Faith Hotel
Divine Door Showroom
Wrong Turn
Sweetly Detective Agency
Yummy Restaurant
Help for the Mentally Retired
Rest-O-Rent
Urinal Prohibited
Do Not Leave Your Vehicle, Survivors Will be Prosecuted (sign on Safari roads)
A sequence of Road Signs, Speed Thrills. Speed Kills, RIP Restaurant
Launching Divinity (no idea what that one was advertising)
Rejected Exports
Genuine Fakes
Education An important recent cultural trend is the government's interest in education at all levels for women. Not so many years ago, formal education of women and girls was considered unnecessary because whatever their caste they were destined for a life at home taking care of house and children. That has changed significantly. Now it is compulsory for young girls and teens to attend school; their tuition is paid for along with food while at school. They are provided backpacks (filled with school supplies) and given bicycles for transportation to and from school. Following completion of high school, they are eligible to take the same entrance exams as men for any education direction they wish to pursue and can compete 19
for available scholarship money equally with male students.
Let's hear it for equal
opportunities for the female gender!
FEASTS FOR FOODIES Sometimes our trip through Southern India seemed designed for a failed “Overeaters Anonymous” group.
We often felt like we were really just moving from one meal to
another. Indian cuisine is a favorite of mine, so I was really quite satisfied with this program. Two of our many excellent meals, both buffet style and elegantly served ones, deserve special mention. Pictures will provide evidence of the range of dishes we sampled but will not give even a hint of how delicious they were. We were on the Oberoi M/V Vrinda when we were served a typical meal celebrating a special Keralan holiday celebrating family togetherness (sort of like our Thanksgiving perhaps).
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The Sadya (Banquet) was served midday in courses, all of which were small and placed on a large banana leaf which was our plates. 12 courses filled that plate in a specific order. There were some side items too, like drinks and condiments.
Almost every dish was
blazing hot with pepper, except for two rice dishes and a couple of "soothing" drinks which did little to quench the flames in our oral cavities and were rather tasteless as well. There were two different types of breads: Papadum and Porotta which were delicious and blessedly not highly spiced. Here is the menu showing the order in which the meal was served:
Salt, Pickle, Papadum
Curd Rice (Unsweet rice mixed with milk)
Elaichi Banana (a delicious Keralan variety of this fruit)
Beetroot Thoran (carrot, beets, and coconut salad)
Kai Kalan (pineapple and coconut mixture—pudding-like but no sweeter than the pineapple itself)
Avial (a carrot gel)
Kaidechaka Pachadi (banana and coconut curry)
Sambhar (lentil sauce)
Kozhi Roast (chicken curry dish)
Meen Fry (a fish dish that was delicious, made with fish from the Kerala backwaters)
Red Rice (a variety of rice grown in the rice paddies of the backwaters)
Kerala Porotta (a bread that is denser and moister than papadum)
Pineapple Rasam (a drink made with pineapple juice and butter—sounds strange and is)
Ada Payasam (traditional sweetened rice pudding)
Lassi (a drink made of yogurt, chilled water or milk, sugar, cardamom powder or rose water
As you can see, the meal made great use of local fruits, veggies, and protein sources: locally grown pineapples, bananas, rice varieties, spices, coconuts,
and fish.
It was
incredibly filling and interesting as well as scorching to the palate. To render our experience more traditional, we were encouraged to eat as Indians do—with the right hand (difficult for left-handed people but left-handed eating is considered unsanitary). Our Indian guide, Indrajit, demonstrated how to curl our fingers so that the food could be placed neatly in the mouth, avoiding spills and other unattractive 21
occurrences. We all gamely tried our hands at this and found ways to avoid embarrassing ourselves. My favorite dessert was my only course at supper that night: jelabies! Under a full moon sky on the top deck of our luxurious houseboat!
The second of the most memorable meals was also a lunch, but what an enormous meal it was! We ate in the dining room of a lovely bed and breakfast inn run by a Keralan couple. The inn was located on a back street in the city of Kochi. We had a wonderfully fascinating walking tour to reach the B and B both before and after this second "satay." It was right that we should walk back since we were groaning with over-satiation! We were introduced to our host as the "chef," but it quickly became clear that he was the maître'd and waiter and that an unseen presence was in the kitchen preparing the multiple dishes we were again served in courses.
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Each course consisted of overly generous portions of whatever the dish contained. This banquet included 7 courses starting with a salad made of fresh fruits and locally grown vegetables and then proceeded to courses with shrimp and curried veggies, then curried calamari, a snapper type of fish dish, a beef concoction, lamb croquettes, rice varieties and fresh fruit for dessert—again mostly pineapples and coconut. Porotta bread accompanied the meal throughout. We were not offered any Indian drinks, but tea and coffee and water were available. This time we ate with knife, fork, and spoon. After thanking our gracious host effusively, we were finally introduced to the real producer of the delicious and varied foods we enjoyed. She was a lovely Indian lady, clad in a beautiful sari (with no visible cooking “accidents” like grease or sauces, displayed on its colorful material). We thanked her with smiles and applause, but she was shy and just smiled back at us without trying to speak to us. Another adventure in delicious and pleasurable dining. It must be emphasized that all our meals were delicious and different, but most were not so formal and not so huge. We also learned that "curried" dishes do not all taste the same because curry is made in many different ways using many different spices and ingredients. Many folks who have dined in Indian restaurants in the US have come to expect that all curried dishes will taste pretty much the same because the major spice will be “curry powder.” In India, no such thing as “Curry Powder” is used since every cook uses his/her own combination of spices in creating curry dishes. We had also previously learned there is an actual "curry plant" whose leaves are used in these dishes in India. If you read the ingredients list on a McCormick's Curry Powder can, you will see that "curry leaf" is not mentioned at all!
FEASTS FOR THE COMFORT LOVERS Besides enjoying local cuisines, one of the pleasures of foreign travel for many of us centers on the hotels, inns, bed and breakfasts, tent camps, gers (yurts), or other accommodations we use.
That was also true during this trip.
All of our temporary
residences were comfortable but pretty familiar; i.e., a Marriott Courtyard Hotel and a Purple Orchid Metropole Hotel.
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Fernhills Royale Palace However, a couple of the places we stayed were quite memorable and more than just attractive and comfortable. They deserve an individual paragraph or two to demonstrate just how "comfortable" we were!
First, in opulence, history, delicious food, and a wildlife panorama in the front yard has to be the "Fernhills Royale Palace” in Ooty! What a fascinating, opulent, slightly tatty, and even a bit crazy place it was. What a tangled history Fernhills boasts. Owned at first by many British high ranking military men, government officials, and then groups of people, the property had long been acknowledged as having the most breathtaking views of the Ooty surrounds. In 1842, the first building, a small bungalow, was erected on the property and then through the years until 1873, many other bungalows were built, occupied briefly and then changed hands again and again. Finally, in 1873, the 12-year-old Maharajah of Mysore, Chama-Rajendra Wadiyar purchased the entire property and buildings and spent 10 years renovating the whole area. By 1884, what had once been a cluster of mostly derelict bungalows was transformed into an enormous rambling country palace for the ruler and his family. It was richly decorated with Burmese teak woodwork and featured anew and magnificent ballroom over-arched by a high vaulted ornamental papier-mache ceiling. There were two overlooking galleries, one for court musicians and the other, curtained, for the ladies of the household. 24
By the time the young ruler’s successor took over the kingship of Mysore (Krishna-Raja Wadiyar IV (from1984 to l941), the Palace had become an administrative building allowing the Rajah to meet with his subjects and conduct affairs of state with other dignitaries in the area. After l971 when Indian nobility was abolished, the present descendant of the family began renovating the palace into an upscale hotel for tourists. He retains residence rights for himself and his family. The hotel opened to the public in l975. It is now owned by a corporation which is gradually making modernizations to the property which is in need of maintenance as well. The hotel manager assured us that those needs were being steadily met as the Hotel becomes more profitable. Though its sad decadence is apparent, the palace still retains much of its former splendor as a royal residence. Furnishings are period pieces, hotel rooms are large suites with sitting rooms in addition to bedroom and bathroom facilities.
The corridors are lined with
pictures of the royal family over the years as well as photographs of balls, government meetings, picnics and parties held on the property.
One of the more enlightening stories we heard was about the modernizing of the heating system. Italian-made radiators were added to all the rooms to provide heat because of the cold nights and days in the wintertime at the elevation of Fernhill. Apparently not one of the architects or contractors or craftsmen realized the these costly "heaters" cannot work without a large amount of water available. Ooty is high and dry for many months in the year, especially during colder months, such as January when we visited.
The current
solution to this dilemma in all this former glory is providing each guest a hot water bottle every night! We were really grateful for this old way of keeping beds warm in cold weather because it was uncomfortably cold during our 2-night stay. 25
Food was excellent at the Fernhills and service was impeccable. It was evident that the management wanted us to be very comfortable and happy with its establishment.
Another plus for staying at this “down at heels” hotel, was the wildlife that appeared every morning on the broad and deep front lawn of the hotel. A small herd of Gaur (Indian wild cattle) wandered in for some safe grazing. A really huge bull led his troop of 4 other gaurs (2 females and 2 young calves) right in front of us while they peacefully grazed their way down to the paved road that led into the property. They must have been sure that humans were not as dangerous as the leopards which are known to live in the vicinity with them. We also had visits from two entrepreneurs who brought a little donkey and a Marwari horse onto the property offering rides and/or photographs with their respective animals. The little donkey was so small, no one would have wanted to burden it with the weight of a full grown human being, so we saw no riders, but some guests taking its picture. The horse was indeed large enough to provide a ride, but we were all more interested in its beautiful ears which mark the breed as separate. The line, bred by a local maharajah in the past, features lovely tall ears which bend and turn their tips towards each other, creating a heart-like appearance atop the animal's head. Very fetching! So ended our sojourn pretending to be maharajas and Maharanis of the past.
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The Brunton Boatyard Hotel The Kochi hotel “The Brunton Boatyard" was another of the more interesting places we stayed. It is moored on a historic stretch of Kochi's famed harbor. It is a reminder of a bygone era in India’s history. This property belonged George Brunton and Sons in the 1890s who operated one of the better shipbuilding companies in the area. After the shipbuilding industry faded with the departure of the English, the building fell into disrepair. The current owners bought the property and derelict buildings and began a careful reconstruction to bring the buildings back to life.
They used old photographs and
construction techniques together with the materials that would have been available and used during its original construction: brick, lime, wood and terra cotta. This recreates a building that fits in perfectly with the other colonial structures near it in the historic harbor district.
Every effort has been made to recreate
the
multicultural
atmosphere of life in Kochi in the
Victorian
Age.
The
paintings, furnishings, décor, flooring
and
hanging
fans
recreate Portuguese culture, Dutch influences, British life, contributions
by
Chinese,
Arabic, and Jewish inhabitants of the area.
Also, the several restaurants also reflect the cuisines of all these different influences separately and in fusions of many of them. Indian Spices, Christian use of pork, Jewish recipes, and of course, Anglo-Indian culture as well. The hotel was wonderfully located and its food excellent. The rooms were large and comfortable with the balconies affording inspiring views of the sun’s positions during the day over the waterfront. Passing boats of every vintage and style 27
added to the scenes. Everyone wished we could have stayed here another night, but the tug of more explorations kept us moving.
CONCLUSION This Zegrahm trip was very satisfying to us who had already been in India a few times before. However, I would not recommend this particular itinerary for a first time India visitor. Neither would I recommend it to anyone whose primary purpose in visiting India is to explore the iconic sites, cities, cultural institutions, religious traditions and houses of worship, or more typical street scenes. Northern India would be more interesting to that traveler since it has many more of such places to offer.
And though there are tiger
reserves in the Southern part of the country, there are much fewer tigers in those preserves than are presently living in the reserves below Delhi, such as Ranthambore, Kahna, Bandhavgarh among others there. Though tigerless on this visit, we did see more than 200 bird species, 24 mammal species (including a gorgeous leopard), and many reptiles as well, including enormous crocodiles. The itinerary was busy but not frantic and the pacing was thoughtful, allowing for recovery from jet lag in the first couple of days. Our guides, Mark and Mayumi Brazil, and the local Indian guide, Indrajit Latey, were topnotch in every aspect of this trip, friendly and helpful too. Our small group of travelers (13) was “sympatico" also since all of us wanted to see as many different creatures as possible, enjoy Indian cuisine and culture and stay in lovely accommodations. As always, we would never hesitate to recommend a Zegrahm trip to anyone.
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