“SLUMGULLION”
Our report on a Viking Cruise Line tour of the ancient sites along the European coast of the Mediterranean Sea in 2022 of the Covid years.
But first, a word about the odd title for this report. In the Lois’ family, this neologism was always used for a stew like meal made of whatever leftovers were found in the kitchen. It was often delicious but sometimes not so much. However, the mélange accurately describes the ancient history of most of the countries we visited from Croatia to Spain. All these countries experienced waves of conquest and governance by the ancient empires that sequentially ruled the Mediterranean coastline. From the 12th century BC with the Greeks followed by the Romans, the Byzantines, the Venetians, and finally the Ottomans.
Every one of the countries carries the stamp and legacy of these dominant cultures. Only World War I set most of them free and independent with the defeat of the Ottomans by the Allies and the subsequent Treaty of Paris in 1918. For the countries along the Dalmatian Coast (Croatia, Montenegro, Serbia, Slovenia) independence did not come without horrific wars following the breakup of former Yugoslavia after the death of communist dictator “Tito” in 1980. Today the now separate and independent countries have reached peaceful co-existence and tourism is a major source of income, especially for those directly on the Dalmatian Coast.
And So –We Set Sail
CHIOGGIA, ITALY
DAY 1 & 2: We docked in Chioggia outside Venice. Thankfully for the city, cruise ships are no longer allowed in the Venice lagoon. We had visited Venice before, so we elected to stay in the port city. Chioggia is known as Little Venice because it is also built along small canals connected by many picturesque bridges. The weather was inviting, and we enjoyed strolling along the streets & crossing those bridges. The local people were also active, walking dogs of all sizes and pushing prams with their children. Everyone seemed friendly and relaxed under a warm Italian sun.
A surprise was discovered in one of the many churches we entered. A group of kids (about 9 or 10) were sitting quietly in the pews listening intently to their teacher telling them a story we could not understand. The surprise was that the kids were so well-behaved. There was no fidgeting or secret whispering or snickering. Amazing scene. We visited at least 5 of the purported 15 churches in town and found them old but well care for.
Houses were mostly three-story buildings covered in sandy colored stucco. There were some signs of either neglect or poverty since we could see many places where the stucco was peeling off. In the canals, small boats were tied up in front of the buildings indicating that folks used them for work or general transportation. In more prosperous areas, larger vessels were docked in front of commercial buildings, like warehouses and workshops.
The most lauded bridge was called the “Marble Bridge” (Pizzetta Vigo) and we found it easily. Though it is clearly quite old, it was not that remarkable for beauty or architecture. Still, it was very well used.
Along the streets, even though it was a Friday, many men were seated in front of bars and restaurants laughing and talking together. We never learned if it was a holiday or if there is too much unemployment in the small town. The scattered clouds cleared, and the day warmed up during our exploration and finally became hot enough to send us back to the comfort and free food availability on Viking Jupiter. We were glad that we had elected to walk through the “Little Venice” rather than returning to Big Venice with its milling throngs of tourists and the required long boat ride into the Grand Canal.
DAY 3: We were supposed to be in Split and Trogir but the weather prevented our docking there. Thus Day 3 turned into an unexpected "Sea Day.” While we enjoy sailing days to sample the amenities of the ship as well as the lectures provided by historians, astronomers, and other experts, we felt so sorry for fellow travelers who had to miss these marvelous cities. We had previously visited them on a road trip with friends and knew what wonderful sites they are. Several passengers even told us that they had signed up for this part of the cruise just because they wanted to visit Split and Trogir. Alas for them.
DUBROVNIK, CROATIA
DAY 4: If we had failed to land in this wonderful city, we would have been as sick as those folks who missed Split and Trogir. Getting to see Old City Dubrovnik which we had missed during our road trip in Croatia a few years ago, was the main purpose of our signing up for this trip during Covid. But we were much luckier than the group intent on Split. We were able to visit this ancient city on the Adriatic Sea in beautiful weather. Dubrovnik dates from the 12th century and its wonder is that so much of the ancient city is intact: the surrounding Medieval Wall, the main street the Stradun, authentic stone houses, the peaceful 14th century Franciscan Monastery and apothecary housing the world’s oldest working pharmacy and the ancient marble streets which could tell tales of the ancient, noted people (kings and emperors) as well as everyday citizens who have trod over them for centuries. It is truly mindboggling to recall that you are walking the footsteps of Caesars, Doges of Venice, and even Napoleon.
Tough climbing up the many stairs to the Wall top could be described as arduous but so worth the effort. The view over the red-tiled roofs of the city, down on the marvelous old fountain in city center and out to the Adriatic Sea was beyond words. Take a look at Kay’s brilliant photos of the city from every angle we could reach, and you will be amazed at the beauty of this ancient city which the Playwright George Bernard Shaw called “paradise on earth.”
KOTOR, MONTENEGRO
DAY 5: Kotor, the capital city of Montenegro, has a delightful nickname. It is called the “City of Cats.” We had seen many feral cats (obviously cared for by the locals) in Dubrovnik as well but not so many as in this cat paradise. The cats do not necessarily belong to any one family, but all the townspeople take care of them, from feeding and watering to providing veterinarian care if necessary. And they are such beautiful cats with many different coatcolors. There are signs on the walls reminding visitors to be careful of the feline city citizens.
The city is reached through a 17-mile fjord from the Adriatic Sea. The walls enclosing the water tower above it, so the approach is spectacular. On one side of the fjord, there is bare gray limestone rock and the other is covered with trees and shrubs hiding the rocks. The limestone was forced up from the seabed due to the action of plate tectonics millions of years ago.
There were three cruise ships in the small harbor when we arrived, so we anchored outside, requiring a 20-minute tender ride to reach shore. The small town center was teeming with visitors, but the ever-present cats appeared oblivious and unworried about all the legs passing by them.
Shops, bars and restaurants were full to overflowing. A good tourist season for this small country which had suffered during the Covid shutdowns with few or no tourists.
Many churches in Kotor, most of them Catholic & quite old, but not so many as there were cats. We explored any that were open. Also looked in on a museum depicting Kotor’s maritime history. There was an old Roman Wall still extant though not completely encircling the city. The old city has existed for about 1000 years. Of course, this stop was one of our favorites because it is a feline paradise.
CORFU, GREECE
DAY 6: This Greek Island has been a favorite vacation destination for English people for many years. And the Brits were in charge here for 50 years after World War 2. Another connection is that the late Prince Phillip was born and had some early education here. We saw the house that proclaimed it was his birthplace. Tradition has it that Odysseus stopped on Corfu on his way back to Ithaca and home. There are 2 old forts still standing where the Venetians put them as a defense during their hegemony over the island.
The island is tropical in vegetation and weather, and it has wonderful seashores all around its circumference. The monastery of Paleokastritsa, A Greek Orthodox church, was a marvel to visit. It is on the highest part of the island and requires a drive replete with hairpin turns all the way to the top. The grounds of the monastery and church are beautifully landscaped by the 6 monks who call it home.
There are bright flowers tucked into every nook and cranny and wonderfully vibrant green trees and shrubs decorating the grounds. AND there are several lovely cats who further adorn the property with their colorful coats and varied eye colors.
The church adjoining the monastery is also completely decorated with typical ikons, paintings, chandeliers, and various wall hangings. What a wonderful, beautiful, and peaceful place to visit.
KATAKOLON, GREECE
The central Esplanade of the downtown area is said to be the largest in Europe and it was indeed an immense park with great trees and plants, walking paths, benches and play areas for children. When we visited the site of another monastery, we were introduced to an interesting airport. The runway was constructed right down the center of a shallow lake on what must have been reclaimed land. It seemed a precarious situation to us, but it has been used for years now. The patron saint of Corfu is St. Spyridon. His church is very impressive and right off the Esplanade down a twisty side street, so we took it in as well.
DAY 7: This sleepy and small seaport was once an especially important trading center for Greece because it was a railroad station. When the railroad was no longer such a large part of the Greek economy, its only claim to fame and reason for its current livelihood is its proximity to Olympia, the site of the first Olympic Games. The small port is convenient for cruise ships and caters to them. The town is so small, there are only two streets facing the port and we were advised that though it is impossible to get lost in Katakolon, there is really nothing of historical interest to see there.
So obviously we opted for the excursion that would take us to Olympia. We were a little disgruntled that the program called for us to be up and off the ship very early in the morning. However, as we drove through the countryside between the ship and the historical site, we were happy with the hour. Why? Because we were the first tour group to reach Olympia and therefore had the place to ourselves. It was magical to walk through the ancient columns still standing, outlines of the buildings that had once greeted athletes and sheltered them as they practice their sports, and let our imaginations fill in the gaps where only fallen stones and rutted roads remained.
The Games began in 776 B.C. and continued there until the 4th century A.D. Today there are the ruins of 750 buildings, including the fabled temples to Zeus and his wife Hera. The most complete building is the Palaestra, the wrestling school. Another temple to a lesser god still has standing walls, not just the foundations. The stadium is clearly outlined and is large enough to have held thousands of people attending the games. Yet another impressive ruin is the Gymnasium, for athletic training and practicing. The site is on the Ionian Sea and
there is the Pelopsian, gravesite for Pelops, the founder of the House of Atreus which included Menelaus and Agamemnon of seminal importance in Homer’s “Iliad.”
Interestingly, women were not allowed to attend the Olympic Games then for reasons that are not yet clear. Some priestesses were allowed to carry out their functions in the temples but did not watch the games themselves. There is a fine museum at the site and though we did not have time to explore it, we were told that the museum contains enough written materials from the period to establish the purposes of the buildings and the practices of the Games themselves. The lighting of the Olympic Torch for the modern games begins here in Olympia.
ATHENS, GREECE
Day 8: We had already explored this ancient city on previous trips, so we elected to take none of the excursions offered. Instead, we slept a little late and took the shuttle bus into the agora (the old town center section of the city). We certainly did not want to climb the Acropolis again because the lines to begin the hike were so long and it was clear that the site would be filled with tourists. So we took our time looking up to enjoy the leisure view.
We wandered around the area, did some shopping (postcards & gifts for family) while also marveling at the ancient columns still evident in the modern city. Hadrian’s gate is prominent among these ruins. We were blessed with pleasant temperatures and bright blue skies.
At the base of Acropolis hill, we visited the small beautiful Holy Church of Saint Sophia.
Then back on the shuttle for a quiet afternoon in the ship’s heated pool and a nice dinner in the main restaurant.
PIRAEUS, GREECE
Day 9: This bustling city is the port of Athens and deserved a special visit on its own. We woke up this morning to the sound of pealing bells from churches celebrating the date on which the Greeks officially denied the Nazi demands that they cede some of their land for use as bases from which the Nazis planned to launch further attacks across Europe. This is a proud remembrance for the entire country. The streets were filled with happy people of all ages singing, shouting, partying, and enjoying the holiday. A very infectious atmosphere where shops, bars and restaurants were open for business and being patronized fully.
Later in the day, we took an excursion to the Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion, requiring a long drive from the port city. The temple is an amazing relic of ancient times
that still stands tall with many columns and a lintel atop them. The Doric columns are in excellent condition though they were built in the 5th century B.C. The wind up on the height of the cape was blowing with hurricane force. The path from the visitor’s center up to the monument at the edge of the Cape was a fairly steep climb but not difficult except for the winds pushing at you all the time.
The view from the Temple was stunning over the Aegean Sea
A curiosity that has no definitive answer is that the name “Byron” has been etched into one column. Though it is an historical fact that the great English Poet, Lord Byron, was in Greece during the 1800s fighting alongside the Greeks for their independence, there is no way to prove that it was he who defiled the ancient ruins with his own version of graffiti. Our visit to this magnificent site was well worth the long drive through the countryside with acres of olive trees and vineyards.
EPHESUS, TURKEY
Day 10: Again, we had already explored this great city on an earlier trip, so we elected to take an excursion to another ancient site: The oracle of Didyma in the Temple of Apollo. This trip was long but interesting since we saw multiple fields of cotton and learned that this is the most important export for Turkey. It is not harvested by hand as it was in Georgia during my mother’s lifetime but gathered by machines. Seems much more efficient and less backbreaking for the owners of the fields.
Continuing our drive, we stopped in the ancient Roman town of Miletus. The city is older than the Romans, but it is believed that the ruins evident today are of Roman origin. But it is also thought that Alexander the Great may have ordered the construction of the exceptionally large amphitheater there. The earlier versions of the city were fought over for centuries by local rival cities and even by the Persians. There is a fine museum across from the theater remains that explains much of the complicated history of this area (Anatolia) of Turkey over the centuries. But I shall not try to condense all that history. We were treated to an exploration of the ancient ruins said to be of Roman origin. Though we could not enter the theater except at the top tiers of the seats, we could see the enormity of the structure and appreciate its excellence.
After this remarkably interesting sojourn, we continued to the Temple of Apollo and the Oracle in the area called Didyma, Turkey. The temple is amazingly intact and climbing up to the top layer is permitted. In a corner of the top level is found a small opening in the wall behind which the Oracle sat to answer questions and give advice to the people. It is believed that Alexander the Great consulted this oracle before his war with the Persians. He asked about his chances in the war and was told that he would be successful. And he did defeat the Persians. For the Oracle, this must have been an easy “guess” since Alexander had gone undefeated in so many confrontations and wars throughout his lifetime.
CHANIA, GREECE
Day 11: This ancient city is on the Greek Island of Crete and was fascinating indeed as were the Greek ruins we saw at Aptera outside the city and up on low hills overlooking the sea & city. Ships enter the harbor at Souda Bay through the 14th century Venetian harbor and pass the 16th century lighthouse with Venetian, Egyptian and Ottoman influences through the years. Souda Bay is one of Europe’s deepest harbors. We were met with warm weather and a beautiful day.
We chose to visit Aptera first then head down to walk about in Chania. The most recent structure is Aptera is the Monastery of John the Theologian. The building was believed to have been constructed in the 12th century. It features monks' cells, a huge water collecting system, staggering panoramas over the Bay and the city.
It was an active monastery until the l960s. This has been a religious area over many centuries, since it was discovered that the present structure was erected atop former Greek and Roman religious sites.
There is a Greek theater associated with the ancient Greek ruins as well. It began as a typical Hellenistic period auditorium but was in Roman times. It has become a UNESCO site and since that time has been reopened for live performances of plays, musical concerts, and other kinds of performances. Its pleasingly symmetric construction and the clear and marvelous acoustics have led to new life for the ancient site.
Once in the Town of Chania, we discovered its own interesting environs. The streets are often narrow and twisty but filled with flowers and charming houses and stores. +We loved finding that the Roman Catholic Church and the Greek Orthodox Cathedral were directly across the street from one another. The sizes of the churches testify to the numbers of congregants. The Greek is much more imposing as well as larger while the Catholic church is tucked away between two larger structures and is reached through a long passage off the street. There are many pleasant places along the waterfront with convenient benches and places for refreshment as well. Such a beautiful place to spend time under the blue cloudless sky with the lovely waters of Souda Bay in front of you.
Orthodox
Roman Catholic 1
Day 12: A scheduled “sea day” as the boat sailed from Crete to Sicily across a calm Mediterranean Sea.
MESSINA, SICILY
Day 13: Because we had “done” a very thorough exploration of Sicily in the not too distant past, we chose an excursion that took us to the mountain top Church of the Black Madonna associated with the Greek and Roman ruins of the city of Tyndaris. We thought we had already explored this area but learned quickly that we had not.
There is a theater extant which had been built by the Greeks and modified later by the Romans to accommodate their preferred uses for an amphitheater, their gladiatorial games.
A typical Roman bath house was also preserved with its three areas of different water temperatures: cold, tepid, and hot. Some houses were also extant and of particular interest because of well-preserved mosaic flooring patterns. A small but compelling archeological site which allowed us to “feel” in the presence of ancient history.
The other attraction at Tyndari was the Sanctuary of the Black Madonna a much more modern structure than the Roman ruins. An original pagan church build on the same site was destroyed by the Ottomans in 1554. A new Christian church was erected between 1552 & 1598. It served until recent times when the number of pilgrims visiting the Madonna became too large for the church. She was given credit for having formidable spiritual powers which occasioned the increase in the number of pilgrims. The older church was retained and sits behind the new sanctuary. The current sanctuary was finished in 1957. It is a beautiful building with glorious stained-glass windows and a marvelous dome Even the
flooring is beautiful. The Madonna statue currently looks more like brass than dark wood, but it is quite impressive, nonetheless.
After returning from the heights with the glorious views of sea, countryside, and mountains, we took a bus excursion through the bustling city of Messina. The streets were busy as were the sidewalks: full of busy folks, either locals or tourists. Messina was a big target during World War 2, so it is a city which has been rebuilt since those horrible days of bombings and street fighting. Many people old enough to have experienced that terrible war will remember the so-called “Race to Messina” as General Patton and his UK counterpart Field Marshall Montgomery tried to outrun one another to claim the conquest. It happened that Patton beat Montgomery to the city by just a few hours. But he earned the credit for “securing” Sicily.
While we were in Tyndari, we could see Mt. Etna was active. We could see plumes of smoke rising from a crater. We then learned that no one is allowed to walk around the rim of the volcano as we had done some 8 years ago when we visited Sicily. The reason given is that the volcano is emitting noxious and dangerous gases even when it is not erupting. Luckily, we got no ill effects from our lengthy hike around one of the several craters on the mountain.
NAPLES, ITALY
Day 14: This beautiful city by the sea may be more famous for its invention of Pizza than for its illustrious history and grand architecture. That delicious dish is even more renowned than the power the city wielded for 500 years as an independent city state with an enormous trade economy. Nevertheless, there are many more things that Naples has a right to be proud of, making it a wonderful destination for tourists. Its former power led many artists and architects to locate themselves to its environs. Nowadays, the grand display of the official buildings surrounding the huge Piazza del Plebiscito (the huge public square) is mute testimony to the art and culture of the city.
In the Piazza, the San Francesco di Paola church proudly displays its colonnaded façade reminiscent of the Pantheon in Rome. The Royal Palace is also part of the Piazza. It overlooks the people of Naples just as it did centuries ago. It faces the Piazza with a façade decorated with statues of all the kings of Naples peering out from their individual niches.
Reputed to be the oldest operating theater/opera house), in Europe, the Teatro San Carlo stands just a step away from the side of the Royal Palace. The current billboard caught my eye because I am an opera fan. Being advertised as the next production was Anna Netrebko starring in the opera, Verdi’s Don Carlo. However, it was also marked as sold out. No surprise there; Anna is one of the most sought-after divas in opera today. And “Don Carlo” is rarely performed: a double whammy for the theater.
This is a wonderful city on the coast and that is where the moneyed folks live in graceful villas. Our excursion took us into poorer parts of the city as well. Sad to say, but whether we were riding along the coast, in the sketchier sections or in the downtown, Naples is a trashy place. Citizens throw their trash onto the public streets “willy-nilly” as we say here in the USA. Such a difference from Messina or Chania where there was no garbage to be seen anywhere. But there are many words of commendation for Naples and the surrounding areas: the highway system is well organized with good roads and many tunnels to keep the traffic moving. Signage was prominent and easy to understand even for non-Italian speakers. Successful road maintenance was also obvious. Now, if they could just get the citizens to put their trash in the appropriate bins and trash cans?
ROME, ITALY
Day 15: Because Rome is inland from the sea, we docked in Civitavecchia, its port on the Tyrrhenian Sea. It is at least a two-hour drive from the port into the city, but that is the closest port to Rome itself for ship passengers. The ride in is not particularly interesting, especially if it is your first visit to this fabled city. However, having anticipation build up as the miles go past your bus window could build up your enthusiasm when you finally reach the city.
We decided to take the free excursion offered by Viking to get “Snapshots of Rome and the Vatican” because we have already visited both several times. Because we did not want to get into the traffic of cars or people, a bus ride around the major points seemed a good option. And so, it was! We did get to revisit the high spots of history as you can see from Kay’s photos in her website. (See link on final page). But I must say, we were amazed at the number of tourists thronging in all the usual sights, such as the Pantheon, the Colosseum, the Trevi Fountain, the Ramses ll obelisk, and the Palatine Hill. And remember, this is the so-called off-season for tourism in Europe. But many people like us are tired of being cooped up by Covid and have begun to travel again. The cars and buses on the crowded streets were usually in gridlock with no forward motion for minutes at a time, if not longer. Navigating on our own would have been arduous and frustrating so we were happy with our choice of sightseeing. Rome is dubbed “the eternal city” for good reasons. Come what may, it endures and maintains its ancient heritage magnificently.
However, the crush of people in St. Peters’ Square truly disheartening. There were so many people in various lines as well as walking around aimlessly that it was impossible to experience the grandeur of Colonnade, the beauty of the church, the miracle of the dome,
or the enduring wonder of the Vatican walls. Sadly, a ticket and extensive line were necessary to enter the Museum, visit the Sistine Chapel or see inside the Basilica itself.
On other occasions when we had visited Vatican City, there were no lines for anything and very few people in the Square either. We were able to walk right into St. Peter’s Church through an almost empty square, go immediately into the Sistine Chapel and Museum all without tickets or waits. Of course, I must admit that those visits were many years ago and we were glad we had enjoyed those earlier visits.
However, I must also admit that we had quite a surprise as we were exiting the Square. Approaching us was a small black sedan both led and followed by two Rome Police cars. When the sedan with darkened windows swept closely by us, we saw inside Pope Francis. He was leaning against the rear seat and did not wave or greet anyone as he was driven out of the square to an unknown destination. But, by golly, we did see him in the flesh.
Day 16 (A different kind of “sea day” still docked in Civitavecchia
PISA AND LUCCA, ITALY
Day 17: So, what compensated for these big Roman disappointments? Our excursion to Pisa. We had only seen the famous leaning tower from extremely far away and therefore we did not know that there were two other amazing structures adjoining the tower: The enormous Basilica and the mighty St. John’s Baptistry. What a splendid threesome they are! The grounds enclosing them (The field of Miracles) are lovely and manicured forming a perfect dais for them. Though it was a long ride to reach Pisa, it was well worth our early departure from the ship. When we finally entered the imposing gate, we were the only tour group in the enclosure.
Everyone has heard of the Leaning Tower itself and the three attempts that have been made over the years to stop further tipping. It appears that this last “correction” has worked and another “shoring up” should not be necessary for at least 200 years. By that time, there should be many new techniques and machinery to make a new correction. The purpose of the tower was to be the bell tower for the Cathedral, and it serves that purpose very well. It is a stunning structure, even without the lean and the history of the scientific experiments that have gone on here. Most famous, of course, is Galileo’s experiment which refuted Aristotle’s received wisdom in the centuries before. Aristotle had postulated that a light object and a heavy object would fall to earth at different speeds. Galileo dropped two balls of unequal mass from the tower and proved that they reached the earth at the same time, upsetting then current theories of gravity.
Tuscany is noted for its shallow and marshy land; in fact, the word “Pisa” in Greek means “marshy land.” So why didn’t the architects in 1063 take that into account when they started construction? It took a few years early in the construction to reveal that the tower was already atilt with only 2 stories complete. Early methods to stop the sinking were futile and all construction stopped for two centuries. When building started again, other methods were tried but the tower continued to lean. Though the most recent “repair” seems to have halted or slowed the problem, no one thinks this effort will last more than 200 years. Now current architects and engineers have another bigger and more challenging problem. The round, enormous Baptistry has begun to lean as well. The solution so far is elusive, and studies continue. We should be glad we visited this year?
Baptistery - Cathedral - Leaning Tower
The small but charming town of Lucca in Tuscany was another reward. We had been warned that there would be rough weather between Civitavecchia and Livorno, but we did not experience it during the night sail. Therefore, we were ready to walk around the ancient town.
The city is believed to have been founded by the Etruscans though there are historians who believed that the Ligurians may have preceded them. The city center is surrounded by Renaissance walls from the 16th and 17th centuries. Nowadays, there are tree-lined pathways along the top of the walls which are open to the public for walking and cycling.
The buildings and monuments in the city are Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance styles and are in excellent condition even today. Of particular interest to me is the Casa Puccini where the great opera composer was born and lived his young life. The building is now a museum of musicians connected with the city.
An historically important pact was signed in this city among Julius Caesar, Pompey, and Crassus, creating the “First Triumvirate” which ended with Crassus’ death in May 53 B.C.
A highlight here was the visit to the Cathedral of St. Martin. The splendor of the interior space was magnified by that of the painting and sculptures it hosts. The “Last Supper” by Tintoretto and the classic marble Tomb of Ilaria del Carretto are but two examples.
THE PRINCIPALITY OF MONACO
Day 18: After my fall in Pisa, broken sunglasses, and “shiner“ to boot, we were not feeling all that lucky, so we avoided the Monte Carlo side of the tiny country because we did not want to gamble in the famous casino. We were sure we would not be like the “man who broke the bank at Monte Carlo.” Our decision was not a big sacrifice since we had already been on that side of the country on a previous trip.
Hence, we took the included tour of Monaco which included the Royal Palace and the wonderful Oceanographic Museum. We started out early again and caught the gorgeous golden light reflecting off the buildings on the cliffs opposite the sea below. The large cathedral was very much aglow in sunlight.
Royal Palace
Oceanographic Museum
Overview from the Palace Heights
Vista of Fontvieille - New Town
We walked streets in the old city, Vielle City. Every few steps we could see embedded bronze plaques indicating when we were on the newly claimed land that is Prince Albert’s pet project. He wants to make Monaco larger. At present the whole country is half the size of New York City’s Central Park, so he has a bit of catching up to do. But he is at work.
We walked the coastal road from the port to the old city and learned that there is a Monegasque language separate from French. Citizens of the old city cannot enter the Casino to gamble and anyone who wishes to gamble must show a passport to prove he is not a Monagascan. In return for this restriction citizens pay no income taxes. However, there is a real estate tax. When rich people want to build in Monte Carlo they must pay for new housing for local citizens. We never learned what the ratio might be between the rich man’s new dwelling and the amount he must pay for the new public housing. What a novel way to make rich people help less fortunate ones to have access to affordable housing.
The exotic plant garden of Prince Albrecht is a fascinating and relaxing place open to the public and maintained by the city government rather than the royal family. Plants from many parts of the world thrive there under the tender care of the gardeners helped by the Mediterranean weather that prevails along the Riviera. Statues and water features abound.
Princess Grace Prince Albert I – The Navigator
A side note about this visit must include some comments about the singular character of our guide. He is a man in his early 50s who lives in Nice, France, and is not a citizen of Monaco. Remember that Nice and Monaco lie close to one another. This fact bolsters his many claims of intimate friendship with Prince Albert, the current ruler of Monaco. He constantly reminded us that he and the prince were born on the same day and that his family were close friends of the royal family. He claims to have grown up with Albert and still maintains a close friendship with him. He also reminded us often that he knew Princess Grace and was a close confidant of hers. He told us that this friendship was close enough that she even confided in him that it “difficult” sometimes to be a Princess. When he finally stopped talking about his intimacy with the royal family, he started some interesting “name dropping” of people who have asked for his help in some effort they were making. For instance, he said that when Brad Pitt wanted to sell a big property he owned in Monte Carlo (when he and Angelina Jolie were breaking up housekeeping) he helped him accomplish his purpose at a big profit. We decided that this person was either the world’s most accomplished liar or that he was the “real thing” he claimed to be. Whatever, he told lots of good stories. We just decided to accept him as he presented himself. We enjoyed exploring Monaco with him because he was so enthusiastic.
MARSEILLE, FRANCE
Days 19 & 20: Another surprise caused by the weather. We were unable to land at the scheduled stop in Montpellier, France, so the excursions purchased for that city were refunded to us and we spent two special days docked in that wonderfully rebuilt and refurbished city. It was bombed relentlessly in World War II so there was much rebuilding to do. As the city came to life again, the populace grew quickly. The city leaders and France itself realized that more land and more housing were going to be necessary. So began the extensive land reclamation from the sea. Today, Marseille is an interesting combination of new buildings intertwined with structures from ages past that had survived the punishment of the war years.
Since we had never been here before, we decided to take the free excursion offered which took us on a three-hour bus tour through Marseille old and new. It was an excellent choice since it helped us decide what places we would want to explore on our own.
Our first destination was the two forts close to the Old Port: Fort Nicolas and Fort Jean from the 1660s. These fortresses guarded the entrance to the port during the reign of French King Louis XIV. However, because the citizens of Marseille were freedom living and independent, sometimes the cannons were aimed toward the land to quell rebellions
occurring in the city. You can climb stairs up to the top of Ft. Jean and we had hoped to cross over to Ft. Nicolas but alas the narrow steel bridge between them was closed. The views from the top were exhilarating as promised in the reports. And the climb up cost us no more than some energy.
Next, we walked around and down from the fortress in search of the old Cathedral which has been deconsecrated and is now a Monument. Hence, there is usually no entry to the building unless some function is going on.
We continued walking in search of a public restroom which we had been assured would be available at any open restaurant or tavern. However, that turned out not to be the case at all. We stopped at several and were always waved away rudely. Finally, a sympathetic waitress gave us directions to a public facility off the main street we were strolling along. When we reached the suggested place there were 4 other people standing around what appeared to be a porta-potty like you see around construction sites. Soon a gentleman emerged from the “box” and his party giggled together. It became clear that this place was something we had not seen in years; actually, we had used one in San Francisco too many years ago to count. These are the self-cleaning toilets that are quite clever and usually sanitary. When the user flushes the toilet, the entire facility is washed down before the next person in line can enter. What a safe way to keep public toilets available and safe to use. Wonder why more cities have not adopted these clever facilities? Perhaps they are too expensive to buy and even more expensive to maintain.
With that need handled, we began walking again. We were headed to City Hall where the double-decker “Hop on - Hop off” tour buses await the tourists. We selected the Colorbus Brand, paid a modest fee, and hopped on and went to the topside for the best viewing. Our chief goal was a visit to the Basilica honoring the Virgin Mary called Notre-Dame de la Garde.
The hill on which the church is located is 515 feet tall and the statue atop the church is 37 ft. High. It is made of copper, highly gilded with gold leaf. It shines brilliantly whenever the sun’s rays reach it. The church started out as Neo-Romanesque but after the interior was decorated with mosaics on the floors and walls, it was identified as Romano-Byzantine.
To reach the doors to the basilica, one must climb 200 steep stairs. There are handrails all the way up and the effort is well rewarded. The view over the whole city is panoramic and spectacular.
And the church itself is magnificent inside and out. The statue was ablaze with sunlight and the interior with all the beautiful mosaic work was awe-inspiring. The glass bits were imported and installed by glassmakers from Murano, Italy. A small fishermen’s chapel once inside Fort Nicolas morphed over the centuries into this sublime church for the patron saint of the city.
To locals, Mary & her statue are called the “Good Mother.” She is a mighty symbol for all Marseille. In a side note, I must say that Kay and I were pleased that we had no difficulty make the climb to the door of the church.
The bus route to and from the church was along the coast road interestingly named The Ledge of President John Fitzgerald Kennedy. The views were spectacular. We were able to see the Chateau d’lf just offshore. It is part of a tiny archipelago not far off the coast of the city.
Alexander Dumas made this little island infamous in his novel “The Count of Monte Cristo. In truth, it was a terrible place for prisoners of all stripes. Poor people endured the worst conditions by being imprisoned on the lower floors of the fort where there were too many people, disease, dank and freezing conditions, and infestations of rats. Wealthier people could rent rooms on upper floors with fireplaces and proper beds. Dumas let his hero make a daring escape, but there is no record of anyone’s ever escaping this hellhole. Swimming away was impossible because the currents around the small island are treacherous. Sounds like Alcatraz, doesn’t it? We enjoyed a perfect two days in this interesting city.
Up to this point, I had not bought any souvenirs other than postcards and a little girl’s Athenian dress for Josie in Athens. However, in Marseille I learned about a hand & body soap that has been produced here for hundreds of years. The ancient and still current ingredients are vegetable oil, water, and baking soda. The guide who touted it to us warned not to sniff to find an agreeable scent because it will not be authentic if there is any odor. Color is allowed, so we bought bars in yellow, pink, and lavender, and we made sure there was no detectable smell.
SITGES, SPAIN
Day 21: This charming resort city close to Barcelona was the site of our last Viking Excursion. And it really is worth a visit. The sandy beach is very inviting, and we saw many people in the surf swimming even though it was a bit chilly for us.
However, there were more folks on the sand playing with dogs and children. We enjoyed watching the happy dogs chasing Frisbees while the kids were busy building sandcastles. The guide was determined to get us away from the beach and into the interesting town. And, like good little ducklings, we were off behind him. The city is celebrated for its examples of art nouveau architecture spread among century old buildings.
The biggest church we saw was dedicated to St. Bartolomeo, but we could not enter to see the interior. The exterior was appropriately impressive. The town was full of flowers and trees and plenty of park spaces for picnicking and lounging.
Ten thousand people call this city home but during tourist high season (from May to October), the population swells three times that figure. We were happy to be here in the off-season as we enjoyed strolling about unimpeded by crowds checking out the older houses and new pricey villas. The town seemed relaxed, and people were friendly on the streets. We could certainly understand why little Sitges is a big draw in season.
The streets were paved with granite slabs, were clean, and easy to walk on.
As we walked to the lunch spot, we noticed an interesting monument commemorating Don Facundo Masso who was born in Sitges. We quickly felt a tie with Sitges when we learned that this man was the founder the Bacardi Rum. In our town, Jacksonville, Florida, there is a huge Bacardi Facility which supplies 100% of all the Bacardi Rum consumed in the USA! Its daily production is 45,000 cases.
Why does the bat symbol seen on this monument appear on every Bacardi product? It was the suggestion of Don Facundo’s wife, Dona Amelia.
She had noticed a colony of fruit bats in the rafters of the first building the family purchased in Cuba in 1862 to begin production of the Don’s rum. She recalled a story she had heard in Spain which said the Bat symbolizes good health, good fortune and family unity. Those bats in that first factory certainly predicted and perhaps even produced the good fortune of Bacardi Rum!
This was the only excursion we took which included a local lunch. We went to a friendly tapas restaurant (The Picnic) right across the street from the seashore. Glass windows all around kept us busy people watching. We were served three courses of tapas and though we had no idea what was in each one or what it was named, they were all delicious. It was a tasty way to end the excursion and head back to the ship ready ourselves for disembarkation the next day in Barcelona.
We have been in Barcelona several times and enjoy the city every visit. However, this time we got off the ship and waited at the port exit to be picked up by our friends who have an apartment in the city but live most of the time on the Costa Brava.
We were extremely happy to spend some days with them in their beautifully located home. The perfect finale to a wonderful trip around the Mediterranean.
And we enjoyed the “Slumgullion” of all the history we learned and ancient sites we visited.
