A PUBLICATION DESIGNED FOR TODAY’S NEW EXPLORERS - AUGUST / SEPTEMBER, 2008
TraveLife magazine
Waiting for the world Beijing’s Bird’s Nest Olympic Stadium is ready to host the 2008 Summer Games and China’s tourist towns are anticipating lots of visitors after the flame goes out
Thailand Scotland Old city offers modern comforts
Golfers getting a warm welcome
Israel
Laos
Young country has an old past
Life in the Mekong villages
SINGAPORE: City is Riding high with new attraction
You’ll love Israel from the first
“Shalom”.
Who can say “Shalom” more eloquently than Maya Weiser? She found her first love – dance – when she was six. She became a member of the Bat Sheva Dance Company, performing in the beautiful Susanne Delall Center in Tel Aviv, and at New York’s Lincoln Center. Recently she found a second love – saving the animals – so she is studying animal science at Hebrew University. Her next love? A considerable number of young men have their hopes up. Meanwhile, she dances and lives with her cat in the same Tel Aviv apartment where her father grew up. Israel. We hope to see you soon. Shalom!
On the beach at Tel Aviv
www.goisrael.ca 416-964-3784
Inside TraveLife Finding new life in ancient Israel Page 6 From Left to Right: Justin Gosling - Jet Airways General Manager (Canada), Karen Clout, Savio Pires - Jet Airways Sales Manager (Canada)
Contest Winner Karen Clout heading to India
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Riding high in Singapore Page 24
ongratulations to Karen Clout, winner of the Trip to India contest featured in the last edition of TraveLife and sponsored by Tour East Holidays and Jet Airways. Clout, a Toronto resident, is excited about the trip, which she hopes to take in either late September or early October. “I’ve never been to India but I’ve actually always wanted to shop for textiles (something India is noted for) and specifically silk,” said the delighted Clout. Tour East Holidays offers many vacation packages to India and Jet Airways, which now flies out of Toronto, is considered one of India’s top carriers. TraveLife received over 3,000 entries for the contest and editor Marc Atchison says the magazine hopes to hold similar contests in the future.
Unlocking the secrets of China’s water towns Page 16
Going home to Scotland to find golf and heritage Page 18
A PUBLICATION DESIGNED FOR TODAY’S NEW EXPLORERS - AUGUST /SEPT, 2008
TraveLife magazine
Waiting for the world
COVER SHOT
Beijing’s Bird’s Nest Olympic Stadium is ready to host the 2008 Summer Games and China’s tourist towns are anticipating lots of visitors after the flame goes out
Thailand Scotland Old city offers modern comforts
Golfers getting a warm welcome
Israel
Laos
Young country has an old past
Life in the Makong villages
SINGAPORE: City is Riding high with new attraction
Beijing’s Bird’s Nest stadium ready and waiting for athletes
PUBLISHER: Annie Tsu EDITOR/SENIOR WRITER: Marc Atchison PHOTOGRAPHY: Marc Atchison and Bill Ng CONTRIBUTORS: Claudia Tsang, Jane Holt, Janice Lees DESIGN: Peggy Cheng ADDRESS: TraveLife, 15 Kern Road, Toronto, Ont.
Traditional Thailand Page 10 Rural life in Laos Page 28
Photo contest winner finds Singapore picture perfect By Brian Rivers
S
INGAPORE – This is a city that fascinates first-time visitors. Its cleanliness … its eyecatching green spaces … its ethnic neighbourhoods … it’s cosmopolitan appeal … There’s just not enough adjectives to do this beautiful city justice. It’s picture perfect. In fact, this may be the most perfect city on Earth — a photographer’s dream. There seems to be a picture around every corner in Singapore. The bride standing next to the waterfall; the white tiger exhibiting its power and beauty to a tourist; the city’s futuristic skyline … These are just a few of the hundreds of photographs I took when I visited Singapore as the winner of the Tour East Holidays photo contest. Actually, I don’t think I’ve ever been inspired to take so many pictures – but Singapore has so many Kodak moments to offer, it’s hard to stop clicking. I want to return to Singapore soon. Want to ride a bum boat on its tranquil river. I want to visit its famous bird park and enjoy its ethnic markets and devour as much food as I can on another night food safari. But until then, I’ll have lots of photographs to remind me how beautiful Singapore truly is.
Travel Life - 05
Rebirth of Israel as a tourist destination
07 - Travel Life
Marc Atchison Photos
As the country celebrates its 60th birthday as a nation, Caesarea reminds us of its ancient past
While modern bathers soak up the sun on Caesarea’s beach, others protect themselves from the heat in the Roman ruins located along its shores, above.
By Marc Atchison
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AESAREA, ISRAEL – An elderly man peered into the “looking glass of history” and began to ask a ghostly figure questions. The figure, dressed as King Herod, said
nothing. Frustrated, the man asked his question in a louder voice, thus attracting the attention of a guide named Vered Bavli. “You told me he would answer my questions,” the man protested to Bavli, “but he says nothing.” She patiently reminded the man he was supposed to touch one of the 15 pre-programmed questions on a monitor of the ingenious “looking glass” (a hi-tech computer and the only one of its kind in the world) which allows visitors to the ruins of this ancient port city a chance to talk to the historical characters (played by actors) who once ruled here. “I have seen people scream at the screen before realizing they first had to touch one of the questions to get an answer,” said the charming Bavli. The “looking glass” is just one of the fascinating ways the people who now rule over Israel’s Caesarea National Park recreate the events that took place, beginning with
King Herod’s decision to build this sprawling complex during his reign, which lasted from 36 BC to 4 BC. “We are very proud of this technology,” said Bavli of the “looking glass” computer, developed in Israel and now highly sought after by other museums around the world. “We are also proud of our Time Tower and movie that retraces the history here. But don’t blink or you may miss a century or two,” laughed Bavli about the short 10 minute film that spans over 2,000 years of Caesarea’s history. One person who gave the short Caesarea film two thumbs up was Star Wars creator/director George Lucas, who made a surprise visit to the site a few years ago. “We were told a very important person would be visiting the park and when we realized who it was, we were thrilled. Especially when he said he liked the film,” said Bavli as she led a small group up some stairs to the Time Tower, which overlooks the once mighty harbour built by Herod, the last king of Israel, to impress his Roman friends, who included none other than Caesar Augustus, for whom the port city was named. Some jagged honeycomb-coloured stones sticking out of the azure harbour water and the outline of the once mighty break wall built during the 12-year construction of this artificial port are the only reminders that this was Travel Life - 07
once one of the most powerful cities in the world. A slide show in the Time Tower fills in the blanks and recreates a handsome city which, among other things, featured a massive temple, Herod’s summer palace, a mini 9,000-seat coliseum and a hippodrome, where chariot races and blood sports kept the masses legions entertained. Once completed, the massive port, which contained outer, middle and inner harbours, held up to 100 Roman warships. Remains of the aqueduct used to transport drinking water to the city can also be seen from the Time Tower. They remain pretty much intact, their impressive arches used today by 21st century bathers as protection against the blistering Mediterranean sun. After Herod’s death, the city eventually fell under Roman rule for a few centuries. A stone tablet unearthed here during excavation work indicates Pontius Pilatus once lived in Caesarea. The city also lived through Byzantine and Arab eras before the Crusaders finally arrived to discover what they believed was the Holy Grail here. “Beneath the Time Tower is where the Crusaders kept their prisoners,” said Bavli, pointing to a deep black hole covered now by a glass floor. The Crusaders, who ruled Caesarea between the 12th and 13th centuries before being ousted by a mighty Muslim army, also added a defensive wall around the city, part of which can still be seen today. As we left the Time Tower to explore the sprawling port site, two actors, one dressed as King Herod and another as one of his subjects, kept a group of tourists entertained with a lively debate about the king’s friendship with the Romans. “Not surprisingly, Herod always wins the argument,” smiled Bavli, who now heads up the park’s newest attraction, a kid-friendly discovery project where they can play with Roman weapons and 08 - Travel Life
Caesarea was built by King Herod and the remains of his palace can still be seen at the water’s edge, above. Left, actors, one playing King Herod and the other one of his subjects, entertain modern tourists who visit the ancient site where headless statues, some made of rare purple marble, below, have been uncovered. Many more remain under Caesarea’s sandy soil.
concerts and the original dressing room, complete with create their own fortress using huge building blocks. stone wash basins, is still intact and functional. “The kids will also cash in their schkels (Israeli currency) Remains of once mighty marble columns and a collection and get Roman coins in return to buy things,” said the guide. of impressive statues lie scattered about the theatre area, After years of neglect, a few battles and an earthquake giving the grounds a graveyard feel. or two, Herod’s mighty Caesarea fell into the sea – the spot The main street of ancient Caesarea stretched for where the king’s palace and hippodrome once stood are many kilometers. A small part of the marbled street was still clearly visible today. unearthed during excavation work a few years ago and The king’s impressive summer palace, which jutted out some impressive headless statues – one made of rare into the sea, came with a huge indoor swimming pool and purple marble – were found during that dig. Both are on the tiles that once surrounded it are still intact – covered display a short drive from the main port. today by sand to protect the delicate pieces of history from “There are many other treasures of ancient Caesarea yet the blistering sun. to be uncovered,” said Bavli, “but excavation work costs a lot “Herod used the pool to entertain his Roman friends but of money. In fact, a good portion of Caesarea’s main street history also tells us he liked to drown his enemies in pools,” lies beneath the highway you drove on today.” said Bavli, who did not know whether any drownings took Modern Caesarea stays true to its ancient roots. The place here. upscale city remains one of the most desirable places in Part of the hippodrome still stands today. It was here that Israel to call home. And, not surprisingly, the modern city Ben Hur-type chariot races were contested – the winners comes complete with some luxury trappings, like one of the were the ones who survived. “The floor of the hippodrome country’s two golf courses and the was covered in sand to soak up the aptly named Caesar spa. blood when one of the chariots The modern day spa facility, rolled over and killed its rider,” said featuring 20 treatment rooms, a Bavli. Turkish bath, steam rooms, outdoor The hippodrome was later lounging areas with hot tubs and turned into a stadium where whirlpools would have fit quite unfortunate victims were pitted nicely into ancient Caesarea. against lions and crocodiles. “Why did Herod build his port According to the informative here?” an English tourist asked Bavli. guide, Herod also started the “Why ask me,” she responded, Olympic tradition of awarding “when you can ask the computer.” gold, silver and bronze medals here. Part of the Roman theatre has been reconstructed and while it INFORMATION: in no way resembles the threeCaesarea is an hour’s drive north storey masterpiece it was in the of Tel Aviv. It’s easily accessible city’s heyday, today’s 4,000-seat along super highway No. 2. Go complex with the Mediterranean to goisrael.ca to find out more Sea backdrop still looks pretty The Roman amphitheatre, top, is still used today and about Israel tourism. Caesarea’s harbor still yields fish. Above, the Crusader impressive. It is now used for influence at Caesarea is in view.
Travel Life - 09
Traditional Thailand Chiang Mai is where you can see the country’s ancient past in a modern setting without ever leaving your hotel
10- Travel Life
Marc Atchison Photos
By Janice Lees
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HIANG MAI, THAILAND – The rumbling of some loose boards over a makeshift moat trumpeted our taxi’s arrival at the entrance of a regal-looking compound guarded by a large gate, a stone wall and a watch tower. A young woman decked out in a long silk gown scurried from her open-air office and, with her hands in the prayer position, bowed and welcomed us with a traditional Thai greeting. As we dusted ourselves off, an army of porters swarmed the taxi and transferred our belongings to a golf cart, which would eventually take us beyond the gate and into the 13th century world of the Lanna Kingdom. “Welcome the Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi – the most modern hotel in Thailand,” said the woman in a silky voice. The sprawling “modern” hotel complex is made to look like a village once occupied by the ancient Lanna people, who ruled over this northern outpost for 300 years. As we made our way by golf cart to the main check-in area, we passed golden temples gleaming in the sun; beautifully crafted statues preserved from the Lanna period; giant banyan trees that
Thailand’s rich traditions and customs are preserved at Mandarin Oriental’s Dhara Dhevi hotel, left, while the lovely faces of local children brighten up your walk through the city’s bustling Sunday market, where you can purchase beautiful local crafts for just pennies.
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A woman weaves her magic on a traditional scarf in Chiang Mai’s Sunday market.
were uprooted and brought to this once empty field; and rice paddies, where men riding ox entertained fellow workers with flute music. “You know sir, the owner has spent over $140 million to make this hotel,” said the cart driver. The magnificent hotel is a place where what was once old is indeed new again. And the same can be said about Chiang Mai, an important trading post throughout Indochina’s history – it was branch of the Silk Road – which has become a favorite stop with modern tourists, especially youthful backpackers. Chiang Mai has often been called a hedonist haven and Dhara Dhevi’s magnificent spa reflects that approach to wellbeing. The interior of the spa is decorated with ornate mouldings and sculptures depicting sacred animals or symbolic Buddhist motifs recreated by 150 Chiang Mai artisans from original Burmese designs. Burma, also known as Myanmar, sits just 250 miles to the north and a lot of northern Thailand has been influenced by ancient Burmese culture and design. After a day of rest at the hotel, it was time to venture out and see the sights of Chiang Mai. A visit to the city’s famous Sunday street market was highly recommended and yielded some local treasures at bargain basement prices. Two silk embroidered tapestries, a couple of teak wood candle holders, a necklace made of local stones and the obligatory set of wooden elephants were purchased for well under $100. The smiles offered by the local villagers playfully bargaining with tourists for their wares came
free. Wandering about the market, one gets a wonderful insight into daily life here – tourism is what helps fuel the economy in this part of Thailand and the people spend the week making traditional items, which are priced so reasonably, even budget-challenged backpackers can afford them. After a day touring the market, we caught a tuk-tuk (motorized rickshaw) back to the hotel and planned our next day’s activity – a visit to the elephant conservation centre, located in nearby Lampang. The elephant still plays a major role in the harvesting of forests in Thailand and tourists get a chance to ride the mighty beasts at the conservation centre, where the animals are treated like royalty. Other tours featured by the hotel include visits to ancient Buddhist temples, which are abundant in this area. One of the most popular is a half-day tour offered by Dhara Dhevi which starts with a dawn balloon flight, champagne breakfast, a river raft trip and an elephant ride. But you can see much of the culture northern Thailand has to offer without ever leaving this amazing Mandarin Oriental property that, it says here, is the best hotel in the world. INFORMATION: Go to www.mandarinoriental.com/chiangmai/ for more details on the hotel or www.tourismthailand. org for details on Chiang Mai.
Travel Life - 13
China’s water towns
They are called the Venices of Asia but these canal communities are older and offer visitors a unique insight into the country’s past 14- Travel Life
Marc Atchison Photos
A woman retrieves a fish from her trained bird while an old man performs for passersby. Below, ancient gates keep the modern world out.
By Marc Atchison
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HUJIAJIAO, CHINA – The stifling heat and humidity that hangs over this ancient Chinese water town in summer forces me to take shelter under the shade of a low-hanging banyan tree outside a canal-side restaurant. That’s where I see an elderly woman, dressed in traditional theatrical costume, setting up a makeshift stage aboard one of the long flat-bottomed boats that patrol the narrow canals of this 2,000-year-old town, which came to life during the Qing Dynasty. As I watch her assemble her cast – a group of large black birds the locals call “eagles” but which to me look more like vultures – a fellow North American tourist, who introduces herself as Wanda Wang and who understands Mandarin, says her server has informed her that the woman and her fine-feathered troupe perform every hour, on the hour. I pull up a chair in the open-air eatery beside Wanda as the clock approaches 1 p.m., order a tall frosty glass of local beer, and settle in to watch the performance. Street theatre, or in this case canal theatre, has been a part of daily life in this historic town, located an hour outside Shanghai, for centuries. And Zhujiajiao is just one of the
dozens of water towns that sprang up along the shores of mighty Lake Tongli in ancient times – the biggest and most famous of which, Suzhou, a 30-minute drive away, is considered the unofficial capital of the towns. Many of the water towns, including Suzhou, Zhujiajiao and nearby Tongli City, have been declared UNESCO World Heritage Sites – frozen in time so modern-day visitors can appreciate their intricate designs, their collection of fascinating foot bridges, and understand their importance throughout Chinese history. The homes that line the canals, most built during the Qing and Tang Dynasties, are still occupied today, mostly with elderly people who are the last to carry on the fishing traditions of their forefathers. No sooner does my beer arrive than the woman attracts our attention by smacking the murky canal water with a long bamboo pole. From behind, Wanda hears the server telling another Chinese tourist the old woman is instructing her birds to jump into the water and dive for fish. A couple of birds fly off their perches and disappear under the dark surf, only to reappear a few seconds later with fish tails hanging from their beaks. The woman grabs one of the birds by the scruff of the neck; pulls it out of the water; and, while holding it
Travel Life - 15
tightly, forces the bird to cough up the fish. “Amazing,” says Wanda. “She has the birds trained so they won’t eat the fish – who needs a net when you have trained fishing birds.” Then the server reveals the shocking secret to the woman’s act to Wanda, who lets out a horrified gasp. “Look at the birds’ necks,” says Wanda while holding her hands over her eyes. A closer examination reveals a small bamboo stick protruding from the birds’ necks – the woman inserts the sticks so the birds can’t swallow the fish. “I can’t watch anymore,” says Wanda, who bids me goodbye and leaves. The woman bows to the applause being showered on her from her audience, who obviously has not seen the bamboo insertions. The birds look very healthy, so sometime during the day the woman removes the sticks so her troupe can stay well fed. At least that’s the reasoning I use while tossing the woman a few yuan (the local currency), before resuming my tour of this living museum. Unlike other small water towns in the area, where the traditional homes have been turned into shops catering to tourists, Zhujiajiao’s canal-side streets are still alive with every day life – grandparents playing with small children left in their care while parents are out fishing; artisans creating masks and other local craft using techniques handed down from generation to generation; slow moving flat boats used to transport goods and tourists through the labyrinth of canals that make up this town; lots of waterside restaurants off Great North Street where you can enjoy freshly made local fish delicacies; and dozens of foot bridges. The most famous and largest of Zhujiajiao’s footbridges is Fangsheng Bridge, located at the 16 - Travel Life
An old woman washes her clothes in the canal while men haul goods on the canals.
entrance of the town. Called the “No. 1 bridge in Shanghai” – the town falls under Shanghai’s municipal rule – the impressive five-opening arched stone bridge spanning the Caogang River was built in the fifth year of Emperor Longqing’s reign during the Ming Dynasty; around 1571. At 72-meters in length, the five-meter wide, 7.4-metre high bridge is the most imposing structure in Zhujiajiao, which boasts over 50 stone and wooden bridges. But for our liking, the most impressive of Zhujiajiao’s many attractions is Kezhi Garden, a tranquil hideaway that took 15 years to complete and is unique in that it combines traditional Chinese and Western styles. The marriage of stone (used mostly in Chinese gardens) and flora makes Kezhi an enjoyable place to spend a few hours. Later in the day, a stop at Tongli City reveals much of what was in Zhujiajiao
but on a much grander scale. There are 55 bridges in Tongli, which was constructed during the Song and Qing dynasties. The oldest, Siben, was built 700 years ago. In one area of town, three bridges, the Ping, Jill and Changqing, are grouped together and form one of the town’s most interesting traditions. On their wedding day, newlyweds who pass under the three bridges are assured of a long life together. The elderly and newborns are also brought to the bridges to assure long life. Tongli is more a tourist town these days, but a good portion is still reserved for everyday life, which, unfortunately, includes annoying motor scooter drivers who force you to give way on the narrow walking paths. The people of these water towns rely heavily on fish in their diets but in Tongli, several local delicacies, like the green dumpling and Zhuangyuan pork leg, catch our eye. The green dumpling is a combination of sticky rice and the juice from local wheat, which is mixed with sweetened bean paste and wrapped in a reed leaf before being steamed. The pork dish is marinated in 10 different herbs – the same ones used in Chinese medicine - before being cooked. The hoofs and upper legs turn a bright red when cooked and the end result is sweet and tender. Suzhou, a few kilometers up the road, is the biggest of all the water towns and the silk capital of China. However, it has also grown into an economic giant – its industrial park is one of the biggest and most successful in the country – and while its collection of canals, Chinese gardens and traditional homes is impressive, it does not provide visitors with the tranquility smaller water towns like Tongli and Zhujiajiao do. When it comes to Chinese water towns, smaller is definitely a bigger thrill.
China National Tourist Office Toronto
480 University Ave., Suite 806 Toronto, ON, M5G 1V2 Tel: 416.599.6636 Toll Free: 1.886.599.6636
Wee golf gems
18 - Travel Life
Some of the best courses in Scotland are the ones you’ve never heard about By Marc Atchison
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ORTH BERWICK, SCOTLAND – When you think of golfing in Scotland, famous links-style names like the Old Course at St. Andrews, Kingsbarn, Muirfield and Carnoustie come to mind. Well, a wee Scot named Kenny would like to change your mind. “Why pay all that money (hundreds of dollars a round) to play the fancy links courses when you can pay a lot less for courses offering the same challenge and topography? And, no matter where you play in Scotland, the wind comes at no extra charge,” says Kenny with a wee laugh. Leave it to a frugal Scot to find the best values here for visiting golfers. “Forget St. Andrews,” says Kenny, “we’re heading to the other side of the Firth of Forth, where, on a clear day, you can see St. Andrews Bay but you won’t see a big invoice at the end of your stay.” With that, Kenny piles us into his sleek van and we head out in the direction of the A198 Highway, Scotland’s answer to California’s famed 17-Mile Drive – the iconic American highway which is home to Ancient stone walls guard some Scottish greens, and clubhouses like this one at North Berwick, above, look like mighty castles.
Marc Atchison Photos
golf greats Spyglass and Pebble Beach – and the East Lothian region of this land of golf’s birth. “The A198 is better than 17-Mile Drive,” says Kenny, “because it’s 20 miles long.” East Lothian is rich in golf courses – there are 21 in the region, 18 located along the beautiful stretch of coastal road known as the A198. The highway twists and turns through picturesque towns and villages – Longniddry, Aberlady, Gullane, Dirleton and North Berwick – and past some of the most inviting links-style courses in the world. “The first course we’ll play is Dunbar,” says Kenny of the charming layout located just 30 miles east of Edinburgh, which was designed by Old Tom Morris, the same Old Tom who crafted the legendary Old Course out of a St. Andrews’ pasture. But Dunbar is no Old Course – it’s better. Dunbar is so good they hold British Open qualifying here when the main event is held at nearby Muirfield. It offers some of the best challenges in golf, including a stone wall that runs from the fourth to the ninth hole along the narrow spit of land that rewards golfers with some of the most beautiful views in the world. The wall is out of bounds, so slicers beware! The best part about Dunbar is the greens fees – about $80 on weekdays and $150 on weekends. Or, to put it another way, it’s half the price of the Old Course. Club members, who welcome visitors with open arms, are thrilled these days that the club has purchased some adjacent land and a new 9-hole course and clubhouse will soon be added to the facility. A visitor is left to ask: “What’s wrong with the existing, charming clubhouse where a local brew called Best flows freely and the atmosphere is relaxed Travel Life - 19
The swale on the 16th green at North Berwick looks like a valley while the views of Loch Lohman at The Carrick, below, are stunning.
and inviting?” While not as well known internationally as the Old Course, or Muirfield, Dunbar is considered one of the best links courses in the British Isles and attracts some famous players. Most recently, the actor Hugh Grant showed up and left members with a tale they now love to share with visitors. “After his round, Hugh Grant arrived at the clubhouse and ordered three beers” remembers a club member named Richard. “When the barmaid presented him with the check, Grant informed her he had no money so she quickly scooped up the glasses and told him ‘if ya’ have no money, then ya’ have no beer.’ ” They don’t play favorites here. Dunbar has that Turnbury feel about it, right down to the lighthouse that juts out into the firth at the turn. However, it loses points on the beauty meter because it’s bordered by an unsightly cement factory. Club members Brad and Richard tell us the course never plays the same twice because of the wind that blows off the firth. “Is it windy here often?” we ask. “Yes, eight days a week,” replies Brad. Added value here comes in the form of pristine course conditions – a quality all Lothian courses pride themselves on – and jaw-dropping views of Bass Rock and the Isle of May, both located just offshore. At the turn, one gets a Monet view of the picture-perfect town and its ancient skyline. It’s not hard to see why dynamic Dunbar is rated among the top 15 courses in Scotland. Kenny, the golf guide, has whetted our appetite for more affordable Scottish golf so we insist he start his engine and move down the road. “Okay, next stop is North Berwick,” the kilted Kenny tells us the following day. “If you liked Dunbar, then North Berwick will blow your mind.” 20 - Travel Life
Even before we check into the distinguished red stone clubhouse (currently being renovated) –which wouldn’t look out of place among the handsome buildings in St. Andrews that house the Royal and Ancient – the town of North Berwick captivates us with its seaside charm and handsome collection of red-roofed homes nestled at the foot of the local mountain. The golf course here has been welcoming players since the 1850s and was established as a golf haven thanks to what were then called “grand challenges” between Old Tom Morris and his equally-famous son, Young Tom Morris, and all comers – the world’s first PGA events, if you will. By the turn of the 20th century, royalty, even King Edward VII, had made stops in this Royal Burgh and they always set aside time for a game on the West Links. With all this regal attention, the town soon became known as the “Biarritz of the North.” An extract from a local paper in 1903 made this observation: “On the links this week at one moment there were, in the course of play, the prime minister, the speaker of the House of Commons, four members of Parliament, two bishops of the Church of England, three eminent professors, a Field Marshall, two generals and a Tibetan explorer. “ Tough groups to follow, but my foursome felt up to the challenge as we arrived at the first tee and gasped at the surrounding beauty that greeted us – the Isle of May, the islands of Fidra and Craighleth, Bass Rock and the endless sea.
The holes at North Berwick all come with names – some of the catchier ones were the Trap (No. 3), Bunkershill (5), Mizzentop (9), Eastward Ho! (10), Bos’ns Locker (11), Pit (13), Perfection (14) and Gate (16). The course here has often been called one of the most scenic links layouts in the land, with all the holes cut out along the sea. It also comes with some quirky holes, like the par 4, 13th, known as the Pit, where an approach shot over a knee-high stone fence is required to reach the green. On the par 4, 16th, the swale that cuts the green in half is so large that a 6-foot man’s head is all you’ll see when he walks on the other side of it. Again, the greens fees here are very reasonable, just over $100 a round, but the memories and thrills are priceless. Down the road a bit is the small hamlet of Gullane, not far from famed Muirfield and home to three of the most underrated courses in the world, known simply as Gullane 1, 2 and 3. Kenny was most excited to showcase these three courses because “they are the best value in all of Scotland.” Like Dunbar and North Berwick, Gullane No. 1 is used as an Open qualifying course and is consistently rated among the best in Scotland. It snakes across Gullane Hill (the challenging walk up the hilly second fairway will take your breath away, as will the awesome scenery when you reach the top) and provides golfers spectacular views of Edinburgh off in the distance, the East Lothian countryside, wonderful sea vistas and the magical kingdom of Fife. The view from the 9th green has been rated one of the most spectacular in golf. Gullane No. 1 was first opened in 1884 and it’s a course that only gets better with age. With greens fees starting at just over $100, it’s also one of the best-valued links layouts in Scotland. Its sister courses, 2 and 3, are no less spectacular – No. 2 was built in 1898 and the youngster of the group, No. 3, opened in 1910. Greens fees at No. 2 start at about $70 and No. 3 is less than $50. The town of Gullane caters to golfers with many of the locals renting out their charming properties to golf groups. It’s a great place to base yourself when visiting East Lothian
The rock islands and sea breezes never leave you during a round on an East Lothian golf course like North Berwick.
and the town even has a mini-golf museum with artifacts dating back to the beginning of the game, which, the entertaining curator named Archie tells us “actually harkens back to Holland, not Scotland.” The only thing more charming than Archie, the courses and the towns are the charming pubs that line the A198, which should be renamed Scotland’s Golf Highway. INFORMATON: Other courses located along the A198 include: Royal Musselburgh, Archerfield Links, Craigielaw, Glen, Muirfield, Kilspindie, Longniddry, Luffness New, Monktonhall, The Renaissance Club, Whitekirk and Winterfield. Canadians can easily get to the East Lothian Region with Zoom Airlines, which offers direct flights out of Toronto. For more information on golf in this Scottish region, go to www.golfeastlothian.com For a special thrill, stay at either Winton House or Green Craig, which caters to golf Groups. Winton House is a Scottish Heritage Property, which comes with a regal owner, and priceless antiques dating back to Charles I while Green Craig is where Tom Watson and his entourage stayed the year he won the Senior British Open. For information on these one-of-a-kind properties, go to wwwgreencraig.com or www.wintonhouse.co.uk or contact Visit Britain at www.visitbritain.ca. Travel Life - 21
You get a true Scottish welcome in Edinburgh, where shelves at the national archives, above, are filled with information on families.
The name game Scotland is inviting millions home to help celebrate Robbie Burns and dig into their Scottish roots
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Marc Atchison Photos
By Marc Atchison
E
DINBURGH, SCOTLAND – Shakespeare asked: “What’s in a name?” He should have asked: “Where did your name come from?” That’s a question those of Scottish descent will be able to find the answer to much easier thanks to the newly renovated ScotlandsPeople Centre, a gigantic genealogy library that is home to millions of records used to trace the roots of Scottish families. Ironically, Steven, a guide who met us at the entrance to the centre located off handsome Princess Street in one of Edinburgh’s attractive historic buildings, had one of the most famous Scottish surnames, Bruce. “No, I’m not connected to that Bruce,” said Steven, referring to Robert de Bruce, the soldier king and one of the country’s most legendary names. “Believe me, I’ve checked every record relating to the Bruce family just to make sure, but no such luck,” said Bruce.
Center’s oldest records date back to 1553
Thousands of people, most from North America, arrive at the centre each year hoping to find out more about their families. Although there are just over 5 million people living in Scotland today, there are 10 times that many around the world who can trace their origins to this land of clans. And so, with Scotland about to celebrate the 250th anniversary of its country’s most famous name, Robbie Burns, in 2009, and with people of Scottish ancestry being invited “home” to celebrate, the ScotlandsPeople Centre is being readied for the expected onslaught of visitors hoping to find out if they are descendents of a duke, an earl or, hey, maybe even a king. Steven just laughs at the expectations some people have. “What most people discover is that they are from common stock,” he said. “Earls or dukes didn’t immigrate to North America – they enjoyed a pretty good life here.” Family information on Mary Queen of Scots and golf icon Tom Morris can be viewed at center. The centre has over 50 million pieces of information locked inside high-speed computers and “Most Scots who left here for a well-trained staff that can help America were illiterate,” said Stephen. dig up family roots. But the key to “They neither knew how to read nor uncovering ones ancestry is to do a write so many of the original names lot of detective work before arriving ended up being misspelt. And then here. there is the confusion of names like “We encourage people to Jean and Jane being interchanged.” bring birth certificates, marriage Not just that, some people who agreements anything that can help left Scotland in the 18th and 19th establish where their family first came centuries left in a rush – they were from in Scotland. trying to outrun the law – and “A lot of people just arrive with changed their names to avoid their name. Do you know how many prosecution. MacDonalds there are in Scotland?” The oldest records in the centre laughed Steven. “Even with limited date back to 1553, the first year information, we can usually find births and deaths were recorded in something out about families but Scotland. the more we have to work with, the The centre charges a fee of $20 better chance of success we have.” and with that you get two hours of Surname spellings are a major research assistance from staff who, problem for staff at the centre. with the help of state-of-the-art
computers and 160 search places, can cover two centuries of family history. Some families hire professional researchers to hunt down family information but this can be an expensive proposition, according to Bruce. “You’d better hope the researcher finds your family owns an island or castle in Scotland to cover the cost,” smiled Steven, who invited me to follow him up a winding staircase – off limits to the public – where endless rows of circular shelves were stocked with hundreds of thousands of dusty books containing the dated records from generations past. He led me to a small room reserved for the records of some of Scotland’s most famous names – wedding and birth certificates from the Burns family and the wedding certificate of Mary, Queen of Scots. The Burns’ family records will be dusted off and displayed during the 250th anniversary celebrations. A document in the room that fascinated the golfer in me was the one relating to Old Tom Morris, the designer of the world’s “first” golf course in nearby St. Andrews, whose occupation was listed simply as “golf club maker.” Much of the information at the centre can be obtained online (www. scotlandspeoplehub.gov.uk) but, as Steven pointed out, the staff at the centre can guide you through the many mine fields associated with such a hunt. The centre is open Monday to Friday from 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. and is located at 2 Princess Street, across from the historic Balmoral Hotel. The building in which the centre is located dates back to 1891 and its impressive rooms, some with attractive domes, have all been spruced up for the homecoming of 2009. Travel Life - 23
Singapore’s
Riding high
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The Flyer, the city’s new observation wheel, has quickly become one of its most popular attractions
The Flyer stands out in the city’s night skyline below, and during the day you can see Malaysia.
By Claudia Tsang
S
INGAPORE — It’s become fashionable these days for worldclass cities to give their skylines that “amusement park look” by erecting giant-sized wheels in their downtown core. London has the British Airways Eye — now one of the city’s major tourist attractions. Paris had their own version of the Eye in Place de la Concorde for the Millennium celebrations — it was quickly ordered torn down by the city’s mayor shortly after 2000 arrived because he considered it an “eye sore”. Shanghai had planned to add a wheel, but cooler heads prevailed and the idea was shelved last year.
And Dubai, to go along with all the other “tallest and biggest in the world” attractions it already has will soon erect the grandest of all wheels. So, not to be outdone, Singapore took a flyer on its own Ferris wheel attraction, a giant observation wheel called the Singapore Flyer, which, at 165 metres tall, is the largest in the world – for now. On a recent trip to Singapore, my husband Bill and I decided to get a bird’seye view of Asia’s most dynamic city so we purchased a couple of tickets — $22 each — stepped into the giant air-conditioned glass pod the size of a city bus, and rotated over one of the most beautiful city skylines on Earth. Think of it as a city tour in slow motion. As our pod started to head skyward, we were greeted with a spectacular view Bill Ng Photos
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of Merlion Park, where the city’s iconic symbol, the white Merlion — a mythical half fish, half lion — stands spouting water into the harbour in front of another city landmark, the fabulous Fullerton Hotel, and a backdrop of glass and concrete skyscrapers — the most impressive collection of office towers anywhere in the world. From our rotating glass pod — the glass was so clean I swear I could feel the air brushing up against my cheeks — we marvelled at the artistic genius used in designing the collection of futuristic-looking buildings gathered along the Esplanade. Next, the city’s Floating Stadium, the largest of its kind in the world and which can hold up to 27,000, came into view. From a distance, we could see workers busily putting the finishing touches to Singapore’s new Formula One auto racing track. Ferraris, Renaults and McLarens will take over Singapore’s streets for the city’s first F1 race later this year — September — which will be F1’s first ever night event. Hey, we thought, the Flyer would be a great spot from which to watch the race. Others, it appears, have had the same thought. We were told three-day passes have all been sold out during the three nights of the F1 race. As the pod reached the top of the wheel, we could see well into Singapore’s future — the mega project known as Marina Bay Sands Integrated Resort. This multi-billion dollar deal will bring over 300,000 square feet of world-class hotel, casino, entertainment facilities, and shopping to the city by 2010. The entire Flyer journey takes about 30 minutes and on a clear day, you can see Malaysia — honest. Actually, Singapore’s neighbour lies just across a causeway… Bill, an avid photographer, didn’t want the journey to end as he always found different sights, angles and perspectives to shoot. Each capsule — there are 28 — holds 28 people and when full, the 784 occupants can sip a signature drink called the “Flyer” — of course — and get pretty high — the top of the Flyer rises 165m off the ground. As our ride came to an end, another couple’s magnificent journey was just beginning. They had booked a private capsule for their wedding. For them, exchanging vows 165m in the air was the closest thing to heaven they could find. Back on solid ground, the adventure continued with a tasty lunch of chili crab, a local delicacy we found at one of the nine restaurants housed in the massive complex surrounding the Flyer. I thought I had my fill of seafood, but I was mistaken. At the Kenko Reflexology and Fish Spa, also located in the complex, I experienced my first “fish pedicure”.
Writer Claudia Tsang dove into this story and let tiny fish give her the “best foot massage” she has ever enjoyed.
An attendant pushed opened the doors of a large tank filled with garru fish (also known as “doctor fish” in their native Turkey) and then told me the fish would nibble away the dead skin from my feet and legs. For centuries, these fish have been used to promote healing and circulation as they stimulate reflex points in the legs and feet. After a thorough washing, I placed my “squeaky-clean” toes into the water. First, one fish swam up, then another, and another, and soon, I had many tiny fish, no bigger than my pinky finger, nibbling away at my feet. Initially I felt like I was on the losing end of a tickle war, but as I settled down and let the fish do their work, the sensation became oddly relaxing. Even Bill joined in later. By the way, Bill’s virgin feet attracted the most attention from the “pedicuring” fish. “I felt like fish bait,” Bill said afterwards. Strange as it sounds, my feet have never been smoother. Singapore is the only place in the world where you can get a fish eye’s view of the city from the Flyer and then get a fish pedicure. That’s why it’s Asia’s most dynamic destination.
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The ladies of Laos
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While their men are out fishing all day, the village women do most of the hard work By Jane Holt
L
AO LAO, LAOS – The sun’s early-morning rays were dancing on the murky Mekong River when our young captain started the noisy engine of his flat boat, churning up the coffee-colored water and sending a flock of startled birds skyward. The captain’s teenage wife helped push the narrow boat away from the makeshift dock with the aid of a long bamboo pole and soon we were drifting away from Luang Prabang, a 16th century city, upstream in the direction of Lao Lao, a native village lost in time. The loud chugging sound of the boat’s truck-size engine let local fishermen upstream know we were en-route, long before they could see us. The anglers stopped casting their homemade nets into the calm waters long enough to shoot us a smile or a wave. As we moved deeper into the interior, the awesome beauty of this country revealed itself – dramatic mountains jutting skyward through low-lying clouds; lush, green rainforest spotted with rare and colorful flora; magnificent natural stone caves; neatly-kept villages with grass hut homes; and lots and lots of smiling children. Village children entertained us by jumping off the branches of banyan tree into the river, yelling “hello” as the boat slowly drifted past. It doesn’t take you long before you realize that Laos is the best-kept secret in tourism. Backpackers have long known of Laos’ many charms. They’ve been coming here for decades to trek through the lush jungles; enjoy quaint cities like Luang Prabang, where they stay in attractive and inexpensive colonial guest houses; and sip Laos’ famed coffee in Paris-style cafes – holdovers from
Marc Atchison Photos
France’s Indochina reign. But now more and more luxury hotels, like Orient Express’s 5-star La Residence Phou Vao in Luang Prabang, are opening in Laos and that is attracting more mainstream travelers to a part of the world that has been, up until now, an afterthought. That’s resulted in an 80% increase in tourism in the last two years – Laos’ biggest industry. About two hours into the journey, a cluster of grassroofed homes along the shore let us know that we had reached Lao Lao, an artisan colony which is also famous for making potent rice wine. Here, life has not changed much over the centuries. As Kip, our captain, slowly maneuvered his vessel closer to the wooden dock – nothing more than a couple of large tree stumps stuck in the river – an elderly woman washing rice in the river shot us a smile. Kip directed us up a set up steep wooden steps, where a woman holding a bottle of rice wine greeted passengers. Everyone in our group said they were anxious to sample the rice wine before we docked. However, once they got a glimpse of what is inside the bottle, most declined the woman’s offer of a free sample. The villagers spice their wine with dead scorpions, snakes, lizards or large insects to make it Travel Life - 29
There’s nothing for the children of Lao Lao to do except stare at strangers or watch their mothers work, while grandparents rest before returning to their farming chores, below.
more potent. “The insects give the wine a very special taste,” explained Kip. We decided to take his word on it. Lao Lao women spend their days making colorful clothing on ancient looms or brewing the rice wine while the village men spend their days on the Mekong searching for fish. When we returned to the boat an hour later, loaded down with souvenirs, the old woman was still washing baskets of rice in the water, and some chickens and pigs were fighting over discards from the still. “The animals actually get drunk on what’s thrown away,” said Kip. “They’d better watch out or they’ll end up in the bottle,” I observed. We continued our voyage upstream for another hour where we came upon another of Laos’ ancient attractions, the Pak Ou caves, also known as the Buddha caves because they are filled with statues of Buddha. The statues, ranging from life-size to ones not much bigger than a hand, were placed in the Pak Ou caves by order of a 16th century king. There’s an upper and lower cave and 220 steep
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steps separate them. The lower, and much larger cave holds over 4,000 statues while the upper chamber is home to 3,000. The oppressive Laotian heat and the steep grade made the climb a challenge for even the fittest in the group. Along the way, children from a village on the opposite shore tried to sell us small birds in a wicker cage for $1 U.S., which you are supposed to release after purchasing as a good deed. Laotians, even the poorest, are a proud people and children are encouraged never to beg so they come up with some innovative ways to make money. “Please never offer the children money unless they sell you something or offer you a service,” said the proud Kip. Soon we were drifting back down the Mekong in the direction of Luang Prabang – the return trip is actually an hour shorter because the strong current assists the boat in its journey – knowing that Laos and its many wonders won’t be lost in time much longer.
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