A PUBLICATION DESIGNED FOR TODAY’S NEW EXPLORERS - May/July, 2008
Travel Life magazine
Asia’s Best Wedding Destinations Dazzling Dubai The jewel of the desert
Women Rule Japan Finding Love at India’s Love Palace
The Great Walk on The Great Wall
Singapore Swings
City state now Asia’s fun capital
The Mermaids of South Korea
WIN!
A FREE TRIP FOR 2 TO INDIA! SEE DETAILS INSIDE
Paging Dr. Gamble: The 10 Commandments of Healthy Travel
You deserve to be here!
Let us take you to the hottest spots in Asia toureastholidays.com
Inside Travel Life
Annie Tsu Publisher Colorful Singapore Asia’s Fun Capital Page 6
Putting some Life back into Travel
T
ravel has always been an important part of my life. It has allowed me to see the wonders of the world and to meet the wonderful people who occupy this planet with us. That is why I, with the help of some of North America’s best travel writers, wanted to launch a magazine that helps bring far-off destinations closer to you. So, welcome to the first edition of Travel Life. In these pages, we introduce you to places in Asia, the fastest growing travel destination. In fact, by 2010, China will overtake France as the No. 1 tourist destination in the world. I have traveled through Asia extensively and it never ceases to amaze me. But in recent years I’ve also been introduced to places like India and Middle East favorites like Dubai, places we’ve included in Travel Life for your enjoyment. Travel has certainly been a life-changing experience for me and I hope these stories on China, India, Japan, Dubai, Korea and Singapore encourage you to visit these fascinating places. So enjoy and keep traveling.
Finding love at India’s Love Palace
Page 24
The Great Walk in China
Page 10
The Mermaids of South Korea
Page 15
A PUBLICATION DESIGNED FOR TODAY’S NEW EXPLORERS - May/July, 2008
Travel Life magazine
Asia’s Best Wedding Destinations Dazzling Dubai The jewel of the desert
Women Rule Japan Finding Love at India’s Love Palace
The Great Walk on The Great Wall
Singapore Swings
City state now Asia’s fun capital
The Mermaids of South Korea
WIN!
A FREE TRIP FOR 2 TO INDIA! SEE DETAILS INSIDE
Paging Dr. Gamble: The 10 Commandments of Healthy Travel
COVER SHOT
Bride stands on shore in Suzhou, China.
EDITOR: Marc Atchison (marcatchison@hotmail.com) PHOTOGRAPHY: Marc Atchison, Gale Beeby CONTRIBUTORS: Jane Holt, Dr. Ken Gamble, Claudia Tsang, Janice Lees, Joey Murphy DESIGN: Marc Atchison and Peggy Cheng. ADDRESS: Travel Life, 15 Kern Road, Toronto, Ont.
Dubai: Sun, Sea, Sand Page 20 Women rule Japan Page 28 Asia’s Wedding Hotspots Page 18 Paging Dr. Gamble Page 30
Affordable JAPAN! Competitive hotel and flight packages. A strong Canadian dollar. Incredible shopping, dining and sightseeing. There has never been a better time for Canadians to experience Japan.
Visit now and discover the world’s most vibrant cultures and unmatched natural beauty. For affordable sightseeing ideas, please access www.jnto.go.jp/canada
Japan National Tourist Organization 481 University Avenue, Suite 306 Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5F 2E9 Email: info@jntoyyz.com
Singapore Asia’s Fun Capital 06 - Travel Life
City has big plans for the future Sculptures along the Singapore River, inset, the unique way of pouring tea, left, and the colorful homes of Singapore, top, are just part of the treats offered in the new fun capital of Asia – the sweet kaya toast, below, served at breakfast is not hard to swallow either.
By Marc Atchison
S
ingapore, long considered the melting pot of Asia, is boiling over with a new-found excitement these days thanks to its ongoing transformation from conservative business capital to Asia’s new sun and fun central. Hey, even Singapore’s well groomed business tycoons are loosening their ties in anticipation of what’s about to happen here. “People will see a whole new side of Singapore in the next few years,” predicts Singh, the handsome guide who is taking me to the Urban Redevelopment Authority building on Maxwell Road where I’ve been told the future of Singapore is on display in model miniatures. Singh can hardly contain his excitement as we enter a large hall within the Urban Planning Building where Singapore’s striking skyline – or what it will look like in the not too distant future – greets visitors. The “model” city is one of the most amazing displays you’ll ever see. Boldly-designed office towers and state-of-the-art entertainment venues that will soon take their place alongside the city’s present award-winning architecture are there to see, and are accented by proposed new canals, bays and golf courses. Planned entertainment and gambling venues in the city’s downtown core and on nearby Sentosa Island won’t just rival similar structures already in existence, they’ll surpass them. In typical Singaporean style, they take what’s already out there and make it better. There’s no better example of that than the Singapore Flyer, a giant Ferris wheel-type structure that, at an eye-popping 165 metres tall, makes
its chief rival, Britain’s London Eye, which stands just 135 metres high, look downright small. The Singapore Flyer is the cornerstone of an everchanging Singaporean skyline and will offer riders breathtaking views of a city that will soon feature some of the most futuristic architecture in the world. Once inside the Flyer’s glass pods, riders will get to see the marvelous structures that make up the Integrated Resort at Marina Bay Sands, the multi-billion-dollar entertainment complex being built by the Las Vegas Sands Corporation. The Integrated Resort complex is more 22nd century than 21st and experts say this complex will be the envy of every city in the world. Marina Bay Sands will boast stateof-the-art convention space and is expected to make Singapore even more attractive than it already is to the lucrative business and leisure markets. With an 110,000 square metres of floor space, the Sands will undoubtedly attract lots of attention from major international conventions. The Sands’ project is also expected to add an additional $2.7 billion to Singapore’s annual gross domestic product and generate at least 30,000 jobs. In addition to the Marina Bay Sands project, Singapore is attracting lots of new, multi-story hotel properties, including the famed St. Regis and Capella brands, to go along with an already-impressive lineup of hotel chains now in the city state. Add to that Singapore’s entry into the Formula One racing world – it will hold the first ever FI night race next year and a new track will open in 2011 – and you can see why people are saying this place is defiantly in the fast lane of development. It’s not the first transformation Singapore has undergone since its discovery by ancient fishermen. The first came under the guiding hand of Englishman Sir Travel Life - 07
Thomas Stamford Raffles who laid the framework for the economic giant Singapore has become. Then under its first Prime Minister, Lee Kuan Yew, who took power in 1959, Singapore, became a model for the world – he even managed to synchronize all the street lights. While the future looks bright for Singapore, the present looks pretty impressive and Singh, who introduces me to a local delicacy called kaya toast - egg, coconut and sugar that is spread over bread in the morning – offers to show me what makes this island nation so unique amongst its Asian neighbors. In his grand plan for the city, Raffles first divided it into ethnic enclaves where the majority Chinese shared space with the Indian and Malay populations. While each retains their own distinct community and culture, a great attraction for tourists, each offers something unique and interesting. Singapore is really a city of villages. There’s Chinatown, Little India and Arab Town, made up of Muslims who came from Malaysia, a causeway away. In his grand plan for Singapore, Prime Minister Lee Kuan Yew wanted to make this the most beautiful city in Asia and succeeded by incorporating a series of grand parks in his design. That’s earned Singapore the nickname “Garden City”. “After we finish our coffees, I will take you to Arab Town,” said Singh, referring to an area of the city where Muslims sell tasty treats like satays from roadside stands and where the skyline is dominated by mosque domes. It’s hard to resist the handmade creations being offered in the shops here, especially the woven carpets that sell for a fraction of the price charged elsewhere. After a good night’s sleep at the Fullerton Hotel, the country’s former post office and now one of its top 5-star properties, Singh picks me up early next morning for a tour of Little India. Serangoon Road is busy most days with women in colorful saris scurrying about the outdoor market buying spices and vegetables. The temples are the main attraction 08 - Travel Life
Singapore’s bird park, above, its statue of Sir Thomas Raffles and the famed Merlion Statue, below left, are impressive to see.
in Little India. Their pyramid roofs are decked out with intricate carvings that number in the hundreds. The handsome Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple was built in 1885 and is the city’s oldest. The Singapore River is the lifeline of this city nation. While not as congested as it was during the country’s early years, the river is still active with bum boats ferrying tourists and goods from one end of Singapore to another. Bum boats, Singh tells me, were once called “bump boats” because there were so many of them on the river that they would bump into each other all the time. “No one knows why the “p” was dropped from the name, though,” says Singh as we board our tiny bum boat for a one-hour cruise on what I observe as “the cleanest river I have ever seen.” At times during the cruise the sun
was blocked out by the massive steel and glass towers that have grown up along the river. The name Singapore, by the way, comes from the Chinese words “sing” meaning lion and “pore”, meaning river. Many of the city’s best parks can be seen from our bum boat vantage point. Each features lots of trails where people are encouraged to walk in botanical settings that are simply awesome. The bum boat then sails into Clark Quay, a new entertainment area crafted out of the old warehouses once located here. The shutters on the warehouses have all been painted bright colors and many are being turned into high-end restaurants and condo complexes. Singapore also boasts one of the most fascinating bird sanctuaries in the world, the Jurong Bird Park, home to over 600 colorful species. One of the most popular pastimes with locals and tourists alike is to participate in the nightly Food Safari. Each night guides take people on a hunt for the best of Singapore’s spicy ethnic food, prepared in the colorful and diverse neighborhoods that make this city one of the most delightful in Asia to visit. The food safari is just part of the night fun in Singapore. There’s also late-night shopping along Orchard Road that goes on until midnight. Then there’s the nightlife in areas like Duxton Ave., where you can pull up a chair at one of the 75 or so pubs located in the district. Singapore is truly a city that never sleeps.
China National Tourist Office Toronto
480 University Ave., Suite 806 Toronto, ON, M5G 1V2 Tel: 416.599.6636 Toll Free: 1.866.599.6636
Great Walk on the Great Wall
10 - Travel Life
World’s No.1 Wonder the perfect meeting spot for women from around the globe By Jane Holt
M
UTIANYU, CHINA — A morning chill and a cold stare from a wrinkled old lady greeted us as we stepped off our tour bus in the parking lot at this remote section of the Great Wall. The shy woman, whose weathered face looked like a piece of old, chewed up leather, ran to the back of the bus when we aimed our cameras at her intriguing features — reappearing a few seconds later rubbing her thumb and forefinger together in the international gesture of asking for money. “If you give her a few yuan (Chinese currency) she’ll let you take her photo,” our guide Lu advised us. After handing her what amounted to a few dollars, the woman became the perfect The Great Wall snakes through valleys and across mountains and is occupied by model — her bright eyes twinkling in the old ladies and men who greet visitors with a smile and an offer of a donkey ride. sunlight and her toothless smile capturing — tourists, here to act out a dream of a lifetime. our hearts. “I think I see more women than men coming each “She looks old but she’s probably not much older year to the Great Wall,” said Mr. Lu. “Women are more than 50,” Lu told the group. “People age faster here.” curious than men.” During our daylong visit to the Great Wall, we came There are several places where you can view the across many women — some were employed to push Great Wall, the 6,000-kilometre wonder that was started cheap souvenir trinkets and T-shirts with the words “I in 2,000 B.C. But Mutianyu gives travellers the best view walked the Great Wall” written across the chest, and of the stone behemoth that snakes through valleys and others whose purpose it was to guide us along this across mountains in six of China’s 23 provinces. stretch of the No. 1 Wonder of the World. “Badaling is the favoured place to go and see the But most of the women we met were just like us Travel Life - 11
You can wander for kilometers without meeting many people on the Great Wall.
Great Wall because it is closer to Beijing,” said Mr. Lu. “But Badaling is very flat, and besides, Mutianyu is where the Chinese government brings all the foreign dignitaries. Bill Clinton was here, you know?” The Mutianyu section was constructed during the Ming Dynasty, over 500 years ago. Each of China’s emperors had portions of the Wall built to keep the Mongolians out. Ironically, 1,000 years after it was started, a Mongolian became emperor of China. Another feature that makes this section fun to visit is that it takes a cable car ride to get to the Wall. The cable cars — which cost 35 yuan one way (about $6) — are identified with the names of the famous people who have ridden in them. We got the one former British Prime Minister John Major occupied during his 1991 state visit. When we stepped out of the cable car and climbed the few stone steps it takes to finally reach the Great Wall, we noticed we were surrounded by women. The 12 - Travel Life
Hikers from around the world go to the Great Wall for the “thrill of a lifetime” and see the world’s No. 1 wonder.
only men in sight were our guide and an old man trying to coax a giggling group of females to take a ride on his donkey. A feeling of awe overcomes you when you first look out on the vastness and length of this great structure. Before taking my first steps on the Wall, I paused to read a sign that simply said: “Once intended to ward off enemy attacks, today it (the Great Wall) brings the peoples of the world together.” Women from France, England, and some female backpackers from Sweden, who were “attempting to walk as much of the Wall as we can,” stopped to talk to us. All agreed this “is the greatest thrill of our lives.” One cannot but be impressed with the ancient workmanship of the Wall — much of it still remains rock solid despite decades of weathering. The bricks that make up the Wall are held together with a crude mixture of rice and limestone. Some pieces have fallen off and I was tempted to pick up a souvenir until our guide mentioned
that robbing Chinese antiquities, including pieces of the Great Wall, carried a stiff penalty. This portion of the Wall snakes up the mighty Yen Shan Mountain, part of the Taihang mountain range, which is pretty impressive in its own right. It took every ounce of athletic ability we could muster to walk the Wall. The slopes on some sections of the Great Wall here are more like ski runs. When it was time for us to return to our coach, the sun was just beginning to set and the Wall was wrapped in a golden hue. The women begged Mr. Lu for a bit more time so they could snap the “perfect photo.” “If we do not hurry, the cable cars will close and we will have to walk down the mountain,” he warned us. Off to the side, the little old man and his donkey stood hoping for business. “Okay, we have enough photos,” we all agreed and waved goodbye to the little man and his pint-sized pony. A perfect ending to a great day on the Great Wall. Travel Life - 13
Mermaids of Jeju Island
The women divers of Jeju Island hunt for seafood, not for pearls like their Japanese counterparts, and spend lots of time in the water. Photos courtesy of Korea Tourism organization.
Korea’s honeymoon island is where women divers disappear under black waters in search of a seafood harvest By Janice Lees
J
EJU ISLAND, SOUTH KOREA - We were traveling the beautiful coastal road that wraps around this tourist island headed to the airport after a few days of R&R when someone in the car pointed at the rocky shoreline and asked “what’s that?” Suddenly, all eyes focused on the black volcanic beach Travel Life - 15
The sun rises over Jeju Island, also known as the Island of Gods because of its many mythical stories.
created when lava spewed out of the mouth of mighty Mt. Halla thousands of years ago. In the dark water we spotted figures bobbing up and down but were too far away to identify what they were. “Dolphins?” one passenger wondered. “Small whales?” another asked. Our driver took his eyes off the winding road for a moment, looked at the choppy surf, and solved the mystery. “Not fish,” he said. “Mermaids.” “Huh,” we responded collectively. “Yes, they are the mermaids of Jeju Island,” our driver Mr. Kim smiled. We demanded he pull off the road 16 - Travel Life
and explain. The scholarly Mr. Kim gave us a brief history on the mermaids of Jeju Island, women divers who, without the aid of oxygen tanks, sink to the bottom of the waters off what’s known as the Island of Gods for long periods in search of seaweed, shellfish and abalone - not pearls like their Japanese counterparts - all delicacies to the people living here. “No one knows exactly when the women started doing this on Jeju,” said Mr. Kim. “My father told me they began the practice, known as chulga (leaving home), in the 19th century in Busan (on the mainland) and eventually they came here.” The waters off Jeju are rich with
seafood so the divers have plenty to harvest. “The Korean word for diving is muljil or baekat muljil,” said Mr. Kim, who also told us the women who dive “make a very good living, but work long and hard.” Sadly, though, the practice is becoming extinct. “When I was a boy,” said the 60-something Mr. Kim, “there were thousands of divers but now there are just a few hundred left. It is very hard work and the young women of today do not like to work this hard. Soon, the women left will be too old to dive and an important part of our heritage will be lost.” With our cameras at the ready, we
asked if we had time to get closer to the shore and get some photographs of the women working. The everobliging Mr. Kim opened the car door, cautioned us to step carefully over the jagged rocks that formed a path to the shore, and led us in the direction of the mermaids of Jeju Island. Jeju, also known as Chejudo (Island of Gods) is a mythical place that rose from the seabed about two million years ago and formed a paradise island that has become revered by honeymooners. Jeju was actually an independent country called Tamna but became a part of 5,000-year-old Korea in 662 AD. It is culturally distinct from Korea due to its isolation from the mainland - an hour’s flight away. It’s an island of legends; one of the most famous being Tol Harubang, often regarded as the god of protection and fertility, hence the island’s popularity with newlyweds. Its subtropical climate makes Jeju the perfect holiday location. Add to that top-rated resorts, lava caves, sandy beaches, captivating scenery, beautiful waterfalls, folk villages, world-class golf and spas and you see why tourists headed to Korea always make Jeju a must stop. And, don’t miss one of our favorite attractions, the teddy bear museum, where world events are played out using the cuddly stuffed creatures as historic figures. Thanks to Mr. Kim’s expert guidance, we were soon standing on the shore and watching the divers taking long, deep breaths before disappearing under the choppy surf. To those who lingered on the surface, we directed waves, but they did not respond, at first. “The women divers are very shy,” said Mr. Kim. “They have no time to wave at tourists.” After a few minutes, one of the women pulled herself out of the water holding a small bag and transferred the contents into a much larger sack lying on the rocks near us. She refused to look at us - no doubt she has been propositioned by thousands of camera-toting tourists
A woman diver examinies her catch on the rocky volcanic shore.
over the years. That’s when Mr. Kim intervened. He shouted something at the woman in Korean and she shot back what sounded like an angry response. The two continued to banter for a few minutes when suddenly the woman got up and headed towards us. “She has agreed to come and talk to you,” said Mr. Kim, who then quickly became our translator. The women’s weathered features told us she had been diving since her youth. Her smile captivated us instantly and her soft voice was music to our ears. In the few moments she granted to talk to us, the woman told of how her mother and grandmother were divers as well, but her daughter was
in college, hoping to become a nurse. “She says she will be the last diver of her family, unless one day a granddaughter replaces her,” said Mr. Kim. The woman graciously posed for photographs but soon was called back to the water by her colleagues. She smiled and waved at us before slipping into the cold black surf where she swam out to meet the others. Moments later, the mermaids of Jeju Island disappeared and we returned to the car. As Mr. Kim drove off, we glanced back, but the women were nowhere to be seen and we were left to wonder: Were the mermaids of Jeju Island just another myth? Travel Life - 17
Asia’s Top 10 Honeymoon Hangouts
18 - Travel Life
Claudia Tsang selects the top spots in Asia this year for weddings and honeymoons Seychelles Islands, left, and Thailand, above, are the most popular Asian destinations for weddings and honeymoons.
By Claudia Tsang
M
ore and more couples are getting married to the idea of holding their weddings outside Canada. Cruise ships are a popular option. So is the Caribbean. But the hottest wedding and honeymoon destinations these days are mostly located in Asia, or very close to it. According to the popular website Destinology.com, seven of its Top 10 wedding and honeymoon destinations are either in Asia or border it. Its top three, the Indian Ocean islands of Mauritius, Maldives and Seychelles are sandwiched between Asia and Africa, but are regarded as being mostly Asian in nature. The romantic Thai islands of Koh Samui and Krabi also make Destinology’s Top 10 list, as does the Malaysian island of Langkawi. With more direct flights from Canada to Asia, especially out of Vancouver and Toronto, and with Canadian tour operators offering such great deals to Asia, we at Travel Life thought it a good idea to offer up our Top 10 Asian wedding and honeymoon picks for your consideration. So, without further ado, here’s my Top 10 Asian wedding and honeymoon destination list for 2008:
1
- Seychelles: This collection of Indian Ocean islands is where the original Garden of Eden is believed to be located so it’s a natural as our No. 1 pick. Add to that the virgin beaches this paradise offers and some of its world-class resorts and you’ll see why Seychelles is high on everyone’s lists.
2
- Koh Samui, Thailand: There’s no shortage of romance on this island. Mix white sandy beaches with shimmering emerald waters leading to secluded lagoons and you’ll see why Thailand’s third largest island has quickly become the hottest destination for your dream wedding.
3
- Mauritius: This “Pearl” of the Indian Ocean lies 1,200 miles off the coast of Africa and boasts sun-kissed white sand beaches, breathtaking waterfalls, and makes an ideal location for the tropical wedding of your dreams.
4
- Maldives: Beautiful coral atolls and luxurious bungalows built over the water make this collection of islands to the southwest of Sri Lanka an ideal honeymoon location. Privacy is key here with each resort built on its own individual island.
5
- Krabi, Thailand: Krabi has some of the most stunning scenery in the world featuring spectacular limestone cliffs and waterfalls, lush rainforest and deep blue seas.
6
- Phuket, Thailand: Indulge yourself on endless white sand beaches, glistening turquoise waters and beautiful coconut groves on your special day. Master the art of Thai cuisine at many of the luxurious resorts’ cooking schools and surprise your husband or wife with that special meal you savoured on your honeymoon.
7
- Pangkor Island, Malaysia: Lesser known than Langkawi, breathtaking Pangkor Island abounds with many natural wonders from sandy white beaches, to verdant forests and spectacular coral views for divers.
8
- Langkawi, Malaysia: This beautiful island is the perfect romantic backdrop for your dream destination wedding.
9
- Bali, Indonesia: Luxurious spa facilities on the island’s many world-class resorts make Bali the answer to a stressed-out bride’s prayers.
10
- Singapore: With easy access to one of the world’s best airports, family and guests have nothing to complain about when attending a wedding in Singapore. This city state rounds out our list and has much to offer. Celebrate your last days of freedom with your friends at many of the city’s bustling clubs. Travel Life - 19
Dubai Sun, Sea and Sand
Luxury hotels like the Burj al Arab and Al Maha have become famous icons in this oil-rich nation
20 - Travel Life
By Marc Atchison
start at around $1,500 a night — later tells us when UBAI, UNITED the hotel first opened, the ARAB EMIRATES public was allowed to just – There are wander its hallways. many reasons “The situation soon to visit this glittering new became unbearable for city now nicknamed the our guests, though”, the Jewel of the Desert. enchanting Camelia The world’s largest tells me. “So we started building is being charging people an constructed here. entrance fee but that The biggest theme didn’t deter them — in park, twice the size of all fact, even more people Disney theme parks put came. So, we now restrict together, is taking shape access to paying guests in the desert sand. and to those with lunch or The best shopping in dinner reservations at one The Burj al Arab hotel, left, is the Eiffel Tower of Dubai but the sights you see the world can be found of our restaurants.” visiting the desert hotel known as Al Maha, top and above, will excite you here. The fact it’s hard getting even more. The world’s largest dining reservations at one airport, bigger than of the hotel’s exclusive London’s Heathrow and Chicago’s O’Hare combined, is now restaurants — our buffet lunch (the best I’ve ever had) for being constructed. two came to $400 — tells you people will pay any price City-sized islands shaped like palm trees now sit in the to see inside the Burj and brush shoulders with one of its tranquil azure waters that lap Dubai’s white sandy beaches. celebrity guests — hey, that’s designer Roberto Cavalli over There’s even an indoor ski hill and a bar completely made there! of imported Canadian ice. Each room at the Burj is a two-storey masterpiece that With all that to come and see, ironically, it’s a hotel that’s comes dripping in brightly-coloured fabrics, the finest become the biggest tourist attraction in Dubai. But calling personal and electronic amenities, breathtaking views of the the Burj al Arab just a hotel would be like calling the Eiffel surrounding sun, sea and sand, and even your own butler. Tower just a radio antenna. As we drive up to the entrance The beaches offered at the Burj and the other hotels in of the Burj al Arab, the sail shaped building that has quickly this area of Dubai, near what is known as Media City, are become as iconic as the Eiffel Tower, a lineup of other cabs some of the best in the world — the sea is always bathwater and an army of gate guards greets us. warm and the sand, which is heated by the ever-present sun, “Each day the line-up gets longer,” grumbles our cabbie, feels like hot sugar. who originally hailed from Sri Lanka. The Burj is indeed a must-see attraction when you visit Camelia Binbrek, the business development manager for Dubai but it’s not the city’s best hotel. We give that honour the Burj, the most expensive hotel in the world — rooms to Al Maha, the desert oasis hotel that gives you a chance to
D
Travel Life -21
touch and feel the real Arabia — and isn’t that what we came all this way to do? The Al Maha, which is owned by world-famous Emirates Airline, sits about an hour outside Dubai and a world away from the concrete and glass jungle that has sprouted up in the city centre. Christine, a transplanted South African, and now one of the hospitable guides at Al Maha, a collection of wellappointed villas constructed in a remote part of the Dubai desert, greets us upon our arrival and tells us to hurry because “it’s almost time to have afternoon tea with the Bedouins.” The whole idea at Al Maha is to introduce guests to ancient desert life — think Lawrence of Arabia goes on holiday. So, along with first-class accommodation — the secluded villas come complete with private swimming pools — you also get to ride camels, meet Bedouin tribesmen, hold falcons, pass camel farms, herds of gazelles and other desert wildlife, and ride sand dunes in 4-by-4 trucks. “It’s time for you to see the desert up close,” says Christine as she greets us the following morning and briefs us on what we can expect during our ride over desert dunes, some of which rise 200 metres off the sandy floor. “Hope you didn’t eat breakfast — the ride can make your stomach feel funny,” she warns us. Too late. The breakfast I consumed that morning could sustain me for 40 days and 40 nights in the desert. Soon our caravan of six Toyota 4x4s is headed deep into the desert where, Christine assures us “the highest dunes are located.” Why so many trucks? “Because if one flips over, the rest can turn it right side up,” says Christine. The roller-coaster ride soon begins and our stomachs churn as the trucks weave and dip at full speed. “If we slow down, we’ll surely get stuck in the sand,” Christine tells us. As some mountain-sized sand dunes come into sight, Christine warns: “Hold on because we’re going to the top.” As we approach the summit with only the blue desert sky in our windscreen,
Riding 200-metre-high sand dunes and holding falcons are all part of the thrills at Al Maha.
Christine slams on the brakes and the wheels sink deep into the orange sand. The vantage from the top of the dune is awesome — lunar landscape spreads
out for as far as our eyes can see and we feel like kids as we run along the slopes. When it’s time to leave, Christine offers us a choice: “You can get in the truck and I’ll back down the dune or you can walk down and meet me at the bottom.” We opt for the walk. On our return trip to Al Maha, we pass herds of gazelles and wave at camel farmers and see lots of bones baking in the sun. “Yikes! They aren’t human bones, are they?” we ask Christine. The wisecracking guide replies: “I think they are former guests who didn’t tip the staff,” she smiles. (Actually, tipping is not encouraged at Al Maha.) Both Al Maha and Burj al Arab are very different experiences and the only thing they have in common is that they are located in Dubai. Just two more reasons why you have to visit the fastest-growing tourist destination in the world. Travel Life -23
Finding love at India’s
Love Palace
24 - Travel Life
The first place tourists head to when they arrive at the Taj Mahal is the Princess Di Bench, above. The marble monument to love is the world’s most beautiful building.
Each year millions of romantics arrive at the Taj Mahal and fall in love with India’s marble monument to love and some even take time to propose By Marc Atchison
A
GRA, INDIA—A handsome young man escorts a pretty woman to a bench outside the main entrance to the Taj Mahal, India’s monument to love. It’s not just any bench. This one has become affectionately known as the Lady Di Bench, named after the late Princess of Wales who was caught in a solitary moment during a visit here on the eve of her breakup with Prince Charles. The young man nervously looks around, drops to one knee and produces a ring, which he slips onto the woman’s finger. She gasps and then buries her face in her hands,
emerging a few seconds later teary eyed but smiling. She reaches out and the two embrace, clasp hands and disappear into the yawning entrance of the white marble mausoleum affectionately known as India’s “Love Palace”. Bharat, our guide, has seen this scene played out many times over the 18 years he’s led visitors around the Taj Mahal, India’s most visited attraction. “I had an American man propose to his girlfriend just a few days ago,” says Bharat. “Proposals happen all the time here. Everyone dreams of coming to the love palace. Whether young or old, this is the place where romantics make their pilgrimage — a place where love is always in the air.” Travel Life -25
Bharat tells us that 90 per cent of visitors to India make the trek to Agra, a city of 2.5 million that sits south of Delhi and is known for its leather and marble industries. “But the main industry here is tourism,” Bharat says after collecting us at Agra rail station after a pleasant two-hour train journey from New Delhi. A few minutes after leaving the chaotic station, Bharat pulls into the parking lot of the famed Oberoi Hotel, itself a love palace whose complete inventory of rooms looks out on the famed Taj Mahal. “We cannot go any further with our car,” Bharat tells us. “The hotel supplies golf carts which will take us to the Taj entrance.” Everyone knows the story of the Taj Mahal, built by a heartbroken Shah Jahan after his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal died. “He was never the same man after 26 - Travel Life
she died,” Bharat says while we wait in a long queue at a heavily guarded entrance. “He was shattered and grew frail and old after her death. He was later imprisoned by his son and when he died, his body was brought here to lay beside his beloved wife.” Because of the original tragic love connection, the iconic Taj Mahal has become known as “the teardrop on the cheek of time,” our guide tells us. As we pass through the red sandstone entrance, Bharat points out a number of impressive outer buildings used to house family members and friends invited to attend Mumtaz Mahal’s funeral. “These structures are very impressive in their own right but they get lost in the glitter of the Taj Mahal,” says Bharat. We then pass through the red sandstone arched entrance to the Taj Mahal which is inlaid with black and white marble calligraphy and motifs
in floral and geometric designs. It’s as much an architectural masterpiece as the Taj Mahal and supplies us amateur photographers with that perfect silhouetted frame of the Muslim-like mosque that has become such a cherished photograph. Few words can describe one’s first impressions of the Taj Mahal. It really is love at first sight. With the early morning sun bouncing off its snow white façade, one is left awestruck. “Oh my god! …” “Oh, this is so beautiful …” “It looks like a wedding cake. ..” are some of the comments we hear as we pass through the enormous main gate and get our first uninterrupted view of the “Love Palace” that took 20,000 labourers 21 years to complete. Photographs do not do this building justice. With what appears to be a permanent blue sky backdrop,
the Taj, with its bulbous dome, is indeed the crown jewel of India. “Pretty impressive,” Bharat says from behind as he offers to take our photograph in front of the reflective pools leading to the mighty structure, made of Indian marble, the hardest in the world. “There’s a secret that not many people know about the Taj Mahal,” the guide informs us as we head toward the Princess Di Bench. “The tombs in the main mausoleum are only replicas. The real tombs of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal lay beneath the main floor — hidden from view. “The main floor tombs are decorated much more elaborately than the real tombs. That’s the way the Shah wanted it. He knew people would be coming here to see his wife’s tomb and he wanted them to be impressed while at the same time preserving his wife’s privacy in death.” Both tombs on the main floor look like a pair of jewelled boxes with exquisite floral inlay designs studded with tiny precious stones. They are protected by octagonal screens that are carved from single sheets of marble and embellished with lacy filigree work and precious stones. The exterior of the Taj Mahal is responsive to the changing light. Bharat tells us that is what makes this building so interesting to visit at different times of the day. “Being here in the morning at sunrise is completely different than being here at sunset. The benign rays of the sun lend a soft purple hue to it at dawn which changes to a dazzling white during the harsh noon and then appears as a glorious golden hue against the backdrop of the setting sun.” The façade of the Taj is resplendent with the finest decorative art. Some of the jewels that once made up the façade have been chipped away by treasure hunters but what remains still impresses. Panels with splendid carved relief work, floral sprays framed with pietra dura and stone inlay borders and inlaid calligraphy in black marble with Koranic inscriptions give the monument a jewel-like beauty.
A couple disappear into the yawning entrance of the Taj Mahal, above.
The Taj Mahal is indeed a flawless gem — a timeless wonder that is an inspiration to photographers, painters, poets and of course, the love sick. The Taj stretches almost 80 metres in height and sits in the centre of the 1.5 square kilometre complex that rests on the banks of the River Yamuna. It’s balanced by two redstone mosques — one a fake — and four, three-storey minarets. “The minarets are actually leaning outward to the right of the Taj Mahal,” Bharat informs. “They were designed that way so in case of an earthquake they would fall away from the main structure. There have been three minor earthquakes in this area in modern times but the towers have remained standing,” he says. The crush of people inside the
main part of the Taj Mahal, which itself took 16 years to complete, is overwhelming. “The Taj gets 10,000 visitors on average a day and sometimes there are upwards of 30,000 on the site,” says the guide. It cost the Shah 40 million rupees at the time to build the Taj Mahal. Translated into today’s devalued rupee, that means it would take billions to duplicate this ancient wonder. The couple we saw when we arrived reappear as we are about to leave. “So,” we ask the young man, “did she say yes?” “Oh yes, sir,” he replies. “Love can not be denied at the Taj Mahal.” Touche! Travel Life -27
Women Rule Japan Especially when it comes to hospitality By Joey G. Murphy
K
YOTO, JAPAN — I was led to believe Japan is a male-dominated world. So why is the tiny woman covered in silk wrappings, complete with a bow at the back, ordering me to take my shoes off before entering a hotel in this ancient city. Well, as I soon discover, this is no ordinary hotel. And the grandmotherly figure shouting orders is no ordinary woman. “We have slipper for you,” says the diminutive Akemi Nishimura as she glances down at my size 10 feet before shuffling off in search of footwear. It is custom to remove one’s shoes before entering a Japanese home, and, as I discover, a traditional Japanese hotel, known as a ryokan, which dates back to 1880 and 28 - Travel Life
serves as this country’s answer to a guest house. There are 70,000 such inns scattered across Japan and, while they differ in many ways, they all have one thing in common — each is managed by a woman. Akemi Nishimura, the lovely elderly woman who has gone in search of my slippers, is the manager of Hiiragiya ryokan, one of the oldest in this city which served as Japan’s capital for more than 1,000 years. Ryokans like this, while always popular with foreign visitors and elderly Japanese, have recently become the place of choice for Japan’s younger generation. “They (Japanese parents) want their children to learn more about our traditions. So they send them to us and we give them an insight into our past,” says the petite Nishimura as she slides open the door to my room. Before entering the large room that will serve as my home for the night, Nishimura tells me now to remove
the slippers — no footwear of any kind is allowed past the threshold of these rooms. The room is modestly furnished and the furniture is built low to the floor, in traditional style. My knees are already starting to ache at the thought of eating my meals with my legs crossed. My curiosity gets the better of me so I ask Nishimura why only women can manage ryokans. “It was decided that women, who entertained and served visitors in Japanese homes, would be best suited to run ryokans,” says Nishimura. “It’s a tradition that has been passed down from generation to generation and now my eldest daughter will soon be manager here.” The room is ringed with large floor-to-ceiling windows that look down on a small, neatly kept courtyard garden. There is no bed in the room, just a large table and some mats. A futon (the bedding of choice for traditional Japanese) will be brought to the room and rolled out on the floor before I retire. Decorations are limited to some elegant brush drawings and scrolls on the sliding screen doors, called shoji. Like most ryokan rooms, mine comes with a thermal bath, where you jump into very hot water — most ryokans like this one are built over hot springs — to let your body absorb the soothing warmth. Once the water revives your well-travelled body, you are invited to dress in a yukata — a Japanese nightgown — and relax in your room, where you are served a 14course dinner (consisting of such raw fish treats as sea urchin and jellied squid, along with seasonal vegetables). All this tradition comes at a price, of course. A night’s sleep — with breakfast and dinner included — can cost as much as 80,000 yen (about $800 U.S. a night). And, Nishimura admits, not everyone likes the traditional meals served here or the close-to-the-floor futon bedding. “We make Western meals for those who want them and we have beds
for people who don’t want to sleep on the floor,” says Nishimura, who has played host to some of Hollywood’s biggest stars — Charlie Chaplin, Elizabeth Taylor and Robert Di Niro, to name just a few. Most of the stars have signed her guest registry, which she proudly shows me. It’s a pity some people pass on the traditional dinner. Kyoto cuisine, after all, has such a refined quality that it is recognized as an art form and the dishes served at Hiiragi-ya look too beautiful to eat. The perfectly kept, but compact garden, which is accessible from ground-floor rooms, soothes the soul with a Zen-like experience. This ryokan is more modern than most — with televisions, phones and even powered curtains all operated by a NASA-like remote control system. “My husband (he’s the president of the company that owns the Hiiragiya ryokan) likes electronic gadgets,” says Nishimura. “He installed televisions here when they first came out in the 1950s and every time something new appears, like the powered drapes, he buys them.” There is much to see and do in Kyoto, a city of 1.5 million, which may have lost national capital
status to Tokyo 1,100 years ago but remains the cultural epicentre of this fascinating country. In fact, this city, which became world famous with the signing of the Kyoto environmental accord, offers travellers 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites, including Nijo Castle, built in 1603; Kinkakuji Temple, home of the world-famous Golden Pavillion, built in 1397 by Shogun (general) Ashikaga Yoshimitsu and Koudaiji Temple. Nishimura employs 60 employees, many of whom are elderly and related in her 12-room inn. After dinner, an attendant enters my room and rolls out a futon. My back at first twinges at the thought of sleeping on the floor, but after eight solid hours of sleep, my fears are put to rest. The next morning — I fear raw eggs will follow the raw fish we had the night before — I am surprised to see a more traditional North American breakfast of crisp bacon and fried eggs placed before me. After eating, Nishimura and three of her attendants accompany me to the door and continue bowing until my taxi pulls out of sight. This is one hotel that should take a bow because it makes people feel so good. Travel Life -29
Paging Dr. Gamble Dr. Ken Gamble is Travel Life’s resident physician and well traveled himself, having worked as a missionary doctor in South Africa for four years. He’s also had short stints in Zimbabwe, Malawi, Kenya and Niger and has conducted medical workshops in Irian Jaya (now Papua) as well as Pakistan. “There is no place in the world I wouldn’t enjoy,” says Dr. Gamble, “but my heart is in Africa.” Dr. Gamble will contribute columns to Travel Life concerning travel health issues as they relate to our readers.
By Dr. Ken Gamble
D
r. Jay Keystone is a close friend and my most valued mentor in the field of tropical medicine. When he speaks, I listen — and so should you — especially when it comes to his 10 Commandments for international travel. Dr. Keystone’s 10 travel commandments rival Fulghum’s All that I needed to know I learned in Kindergarten — simple in text; profound in application. Prepare ahead, post these reminders on your fridge, and practice the principles as you travel. By following these health rules you will either prevent or ameliorate most of the ailments that could disrupt the tranquility of your international sojourn.
1
- Thou shalt consult with thy physician. There is an array of darts that can be tossed your way in the war against vaccine preventable diseases. Accept all and you may need a loan to afford your trip. Be practical. Routine vaccinations should be current. WHO’s list of required vaccines is now limited to Yellow Fever but proof of vaccination is only a consideration for travel between 15 degrees above and below the Equator in Africa and South America. Meningococcal infections are of epidemic proportion in SubSaharan Africa but only pilgrims to Mecca will be forced to splurge on this vaccine. Recommended vaccines should be administered in the context of risk, not destination. Hepatitis A and B, viral infections that are ubiquitous and virtually 100 per cent preventable, should rank highest on your list of priorities.
3
- Thou shalt protect thyself from insects. DEET still reigns supreme in the war against day and night biting mosquitoes and ticks, the most notorious of vectors.
4 5
- Thou shalt purify the water that thou drinkest, including thy cubes of ice.
- Thou shalt cook well thy food and peel thine fruit and vegetables. (Commandments 4 and 5 were among the first of your lessons; easy to learn, hard to practice. About 97 per cent of travellers will overlook this counsel within the first 48 hours of their arrival.)
6
- Thou shalt carry an antibiotic for self-treatment of traveller’s diarrhea. Even if all of the commandments are obeyed, at least 30 per cent of travellers will be haunted by memories of an ill-fated trip because of this annoying affliction. Selftreatment with an appropriate antibiotic could transform your experience.
7
- Thou shalt take thy prophylaxis. Malaria, the deadliest of all parasitic infections, is confined to very specific geographic regions. Your consultant can help you to select one from an array of drugs that virtually eliminate your risk of death while reducing the risk of side effects that could make death an enviable state.
8
- Thou shalt NOT swim in fresh water or walk in thy bare feet. Some parasites are particularly adept at wending their way into your body through your skin.
9
- Thou shalt be concerned about thy security. Avoid being conspicuous.
2
- Thou shalt acclimatize thyself. Consider in particular sun, heat, humidity and altitude. Tropical rays can be particularly powerful and indiscretion in this regard could mess up your trip. SPF B sun block supersedes rivals. Avoid dehydration at all costs, and bottled water can be expensive.
30 - Travel Life
10
- Thou shalt be wary of thy conveyance. Never drive after dark, select road-worthy vehicles and sober drivers. Remember, all you need to know you learned in Kindergarten. Have a safe trip!
Win a trip for 2 to India!
This exciting trip to India includes economy air fare with Jet Airways and accommodation, most meals and guided tours with Tour East Holidays
presented by
Fill out a ballot at the Tour East Holidays LifeFest booth or go online at toureastholidays.com for details on how to enter this contest.
Then imagine getting there with United Airlines and Tour East Holidays - You deserve it!