Discover why Taipei was recently voted the second-best city for nightlife in Asia (12th best in the world) by UK-based media company Time Out. With a perfectly balanced blend of exciting bars, KTVs (karaoke), lively clubs, and familyfriendly spots like night markets and 24-hour bookstores, there’s something for everyone. Experience the city’s vibrant atmosphere in a safe and welcoming environment. Come and see why Taipei is the ultimate destination for a memorable night out!
Colorful and Diverse Nightlife Spots
In the eastern districts of Daan and Xinyi, Taipei offers a dazzling array of nighttime activities. Explore world-class shopping malls, trendy boutiques, and iconic landmarks like Taipei 101. Indulge in delicious cuisine at late-night eateries, or catch a live performance at one of the city’s many theaters. Wander through charming alleyways and discover hidden gems like quirky late-night cafés and bookstores. For a unique perspective, you can also hop on a nighttime Taipei Sightseeing Bus and take in the city’s breathtaking skyline.
Exciting Events Throughout the Year
From the mesmerizing Nuit Blanche Taipei in November to the festive Christmas celebrations in December, Taipei comes alive with exciting events toward the end of the year. Ring in the New Year by admiring the spectacular world-class fireworks show at Taipei 101 and attending the New Year’s Party at the city hall plaza, where top music stars will take the night to an unforgettable crescendo. Also don’t miss the enchanting Taipei Lantern Festival, which takes place two weeks after the Lunar New Year (Spring Festival). These annual events transform the city into a magical wonderland, offering unforgettable experiences for visitors of all ages.
Learn more about our wonderful city by reading the TAIPEI quarterly magazine (see link below)!
Publisher's Note
Dear Traveler,
You’re headed to a little bit of Taiwan paradise – East Taiwan! In each issue of Travel in Taiwan, we take you on in-depth travels to a special focus region through a series of dedicated articles. In this edition, we are introducing Hualien and Taitung counties, which together make up a slow-living, nature-focused region that reminds many overseas visitors of Hawaii: Pacific waves rolling up to the shore, massed mountains forming the backdrop, narrow green flatlands of exuberant fecundity in between. Elsewhere, you’ll be spending a good deal of time in bigcity Taipei enjoying good times investigating one of its oldest neighborhoods, taste-testing its craft beer scene, and learning about the use of iconic “Taiwanese aesthetics” in local architecture and design.
East Taiwan’s scenery is everywhere breathtaking, but our main feature article’s theme this time is the highly varied and rewarding immersive cultural experiences offered in this ethnically diverse region. You’ll take part in an indigenous hunter-survival experience, learn about the seasonal rhythms of local agricultural life, and embark on an indigenous forest experience on the low slopes of a sacred mountain.
In another feature file, “adventures” is the theme, showcasing enjoyment of the natural world using different means – by boat on the ocean for whale- and dolphinwatching, by treetop walkways and zip lines for hilly forestcanopy frolicking, and by hiking trail to explore a famous
coast-side island reached by a pedestrian bridge. And finally, in a “themed tours” file, you’re taking a Taiwan classic-itinerary slow-ride, palm-shaded journey – a day in laid-back coastal Hualien City, a meander south through the idyllically bucolic East Rift Valley, and a capping day in mellow seaside Taitung City.
Up in Taipei, which is just off the rugged north coast in a mountain-surrounded basin, in our regular Urban Walks file it’s a walkabout through the Dadaocheng community, one of the city’s most historic neighborhoods and tourist-popular “living museums,” filled up with old heritage architecture and pleasant young cultural-creative enterprises. In our Good Food department, savor the flavors of the young and creative craft beer sector with visits to well-known craft beer pubs and breweries. And in Expert Talk we spend time with award-winning local designer Johnny Chiu, celebrated for the inspired incorporation of quintessential elements of the Taiwanese aesthetic in his work.
Late autumn/early winter nature and cultural fun in the stillwarm island sun – a most potent Taiwan travel combination!
TAIWAN TOURISM ADMINISTRATION
台灣觀光雙月刊
Travel in Taiwan
The official bimonthly English magazine of the Taiwan Tourism Administration (Advertisement) NOVEMBER/DECEMBER, 2024 Tourism Administration, MOTC First published Jan./Feb. 2004 ISSN: 18177964 GPN: 2009305475 Price: NT$200
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WHERE YOU CAN PICK UP A COPY OF TRAVEL IN TAIWAN
ABROAD
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IN TAIWAN
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ONLINE
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Whale watching off the Hualien coast (photo by Chen Cheng-kuo)
Festivals of Lights Happenings and Events in Taiwan
CITY 1
Dec 2024 ~ Feb 2025
LONGCI LIGHT FESTIVAL
Longqi is a rural district east/southeast of Tainan City’s urban districts. This festival features artistic installations creating a romantic nighttime atmosphere in a hilly setting. It centers around themes that blend nature and local culture, showcasing the customs, people, and historical stories of Longqi through artistic expression. Interactive installations that incorporate sound and text elements offer visitors an immersive experience allowing them to deeply feel the emotional impact brought by the fusion of light and nature. www.twtainan.net/en
PINGTUNG COUNTY 2
Dec 2024 ~ Feb 2025
LUO SHAN FENG ARTS FESTIVAL
Happening on the picturesque beach north of Haikou Harbor in Checheng Township, Pingtung County, the Luo Shan Feng Arts Festival showcases a mesmerizing collection of installations created by both local and international artists. The festival is named after the powerful winds that sweep down along the coastal mountains – “Luo Shan Feng” literally means “Falling Mountain Wind” – and these mountains provide a dramatic backdrop for this unique event. Many of the captivating and often whimsical artworks playfully interact with the wind, featuring moving parts and creating intriguing sounds. www.i-pingtung.com/en www.amazing-pingtung.com/ptlsf
TAIPEI CITY 3
December 31
TAIPEI NEW YEAR'S EVE CELEBRATION 臺北最HIGH新年城-跨年晚會
The Taipei New Year’s Eve Party is a highly popular party event, attracting hundreds of thousands of revelers from around Taiwan each year. Held in and around Citizen Square in Taipei City, the event features a dazzling array of musical performances and the iconic Taipei 101 fireworks display. The party has evolved significantly since its inception in 1994, with a growing emphasis on international artists and pre-event celebrations. The grand finale, the midnight Taipei 101 fireworks display, is a breathtaking spectacle that captivates the immense crowds.
www.travel.taipei/en
COUNTY 4
Nov 23 ~ 24
TAIWAN PASIWALI FESTIVAL 原住民族國際音樂節
“Pasiwali” is an Amis term meaning “go toward the east.” It is a fitting name for a music festival that celebrates the rich heritage of Taiwan’s indigenous peoples, many of which call eastern Taiwan their home. The annual party brings together indigenous musicians from Taiwan and around the world. Through their performances, they share their unique cultures and foster international understanding. The festivities have a vibrant atmosphere, featuring traditional huts, a bustling market, and a lively tribal dance area.
taiwanpasiwalifestival.com
NEW TAIPEI CITY 5 December
CHRISTMASLAND IN NEW TAIPEI CITY
This Christmas event has been held since 2011, continuously evolving and gaining recognition. Each year, it showcases the work of world-class lightprojection teams pushing visual artistry’s boundaries. Last year Santa Bear, the beloved mascot of New Taipei City, took center stage, and the iconic Christmas tree underwent a dramatic transformation, with a stunning “sky curtain” design adopted. The tree was adorned with countless twinkling lights that cascaded from its top, creating a magical, starry canopy. newtaipei.travel/en
TAITUNG COUNTY 6 Oct 25 ~ Dec 8
TAITUNG LIGHT FESTIVAL
台東光祭
With twelve world-caliber sound and light art installations, this event narrates local emotions and human stories. Renowned international teams such as the French sound and light art group Groupe Laps, along with local Puyumatribe artist Yimin Mafalu, were invited to create on-site in the Zhiben Hot Spring area. The artists have crafted dreamlike, poetic, awe-inspiring sound and light artworks amidst the trees and on the open grass. In addition to the art exhibition, themed workshops are offered and local dining experiences are available.
Athletes from Around the World Will Gather in Taipei Next May
Imagine an event where athletes of all ages (above 30) unite through their passion for sports. The World Masters Games, being hosted by Taipei in 2025, is more than just a competition; it's a celebration of the human spirit, a testament to the enduring power of athleticism, and above all, a cheerful gathering of people from all corners of the globe who cherish an active lifestyle.
The World Masters Games, first held in Toronto, Canada, in 1985, have evolved significantly over the past four decades. While the number of participants and the format might have changed, the enduring joy and camaraderie among athletes and spectators have remained constant. In 2025, Taipei City and New Taipei City will co-host the 10 th edition of these games, a major multi-sports event expected to attract thousands of athletes from around the globe. To learn more about the cities’ preparations for this international sporting gathering, Travel in Taiwan recently interviewed Che-Hung Lin, Deputy Secretary-General of Taipei City Government.
Travel in Taiwan : What motivated the two Taipei governments to collaborate in bidding for the World Masters Games?
Che-Hung Lin : The joint bid for the World Masters Games aligned perfectly with our longstanding ambition to host major international sports events, like the Asian Games. Taipei City’s successful hosting of the Deaflympics in 2009 and the World University Games in 2017 demonstrated the city’s capability to organize large-scale sporting competitions. The accolades received for the 2017 Universiade especially solidified our international reputation for hosting such events, ultimately contributing to our successful bid for the World Masters Games.
While Taipei City could technically host the World Masters Games on its own, the sheer scale of the event presents logistical challenges. The previous edition in Auckland, New Zealand attracted over 28,000 participants, significantly surpassing the Olympic Games. Our goal is to further increase the number of participants, which necessitates a substantial number of venues. We are going to utilize 69 venues in total, 26 of them in New Taipei City. We’ve also partnered with other neighboring cities and counties. Yilan County, for example, will host rowing events at Dongshan River Park, and Hsinchu City’s excellent trackcycling facility will also be used during the games.
TEXT VISION PHOTOS TAIPEI CITY GOVT.
Deputy Secretary-General of the Taipei City Government
Travel in Taiwan: What can we expect to see for the opening and closing ceremonies of the World Masters Games?
Che-Hung Lin: The opening ceremony will take place at the Taipei Dome, a stadium with a capacity of 40,000. Athletes will gather at Taipei City Hall and then parade to the nearby dome, passing the Dr. Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall. Due to limited space at the Fisherman’s Wharf in the port town of Tamsui by the north coast, which was initially chosen as the location for the closing ceremony, we have changed the venue to the grounds around the brand-new New Taipei City Art Museum in the town of Yingge, which can accommodate up to 10,000 visitors. The closing ceremony will feature a dazzling fireworks display and performances by well-known musicians and dance troupes.
Travel in Taiwan: What is the registration period and what are the fees for foreign and local participants in the games? Are there any special offers or discounts available?
Che-Hung Lin : The registration period lasts until February 27, 2025. The registration fee for participants from abroad is NT$7,500, while Taiwan residents pay NT$3,600. However, those arriving from abroad can enjoy a 10% discount on EVA Air or China Airlines flights, and will be provided with an EasyCard valued at NT$1,200 for public transportation and other payments. Additionally, all participants receive gift packages, including a T-shirt made from eco-friendly material. We have also partnered with Agoda and Lion Travel, to offer participants discounted booking options for accommodation and local tours. From the airport, foreign participants can take advantage of our dedicated shuttle-bus service to get to the report center.
Travel in Taiwan: Beyond the competitive aspect, the World Masters Games present a unique travel opportunity. How many athletes will be joined by friends and family eager to explore Taiwan together?
Che-Hung Lin : Among the 40,000 expected attendees from over a hundred countries, we anticipate that at least 10,000 will be friends and family of the athletes. Participants who wish to explore Taiwan before or after their competitions will find numerous travel suggestions and itineraries on our official games website. For those interested in museums and cultural venues, many sites in Taipei City and New Taipei City offer free or discounted admission.
Travel in Taiwan: What makes the games so appealing to participants?
Che-Hung Lin: Participants compete in 35 sports, but the chances of winning and receiving medals are high because each sport is divided into numerous age groups, and competitions are split into professional and recreational categories. Essentially, there will be more than 10,000 winning athletes, allowing almost everyone to earn a medal. The games also offer a fantastic chance to participate in a major international event without needing exceptional athletic abilities.
Travel in Taiwan: Which event are you personally most excited about?
Che-Hung Lin : I'll actually be competing in badminton, in the 60+ doubles group. The whole idea of the games is that everyone can participate, regardless of age or skill level, right? It’s not about winning; it’s about staying active and healthy.
Official website of the World Masters Games 2025: wmg2025.tw/en/home
ENGLISH AND CHINESE Che-Hung Lin | 林哲宏 Dongshan River Park | 冬山河親水公園
Dr. Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall | 國父紀念館 Fisherman's Wharf | 漁人碼頭 New Taipei City Art Museum | 新北市美術館 World Masters Games | 世界壯年運動會
Che-Hung Lin,
Culture & Art
1
Exhibition
OCEAN IN US: SOUTHERN VISIONS OF WOMEN ARTISTS 珍珠—南方視野的女性藝術
Oct 5 ~ Mar 16
Kaohsiung Museum of Fine Arts ( Kaohsiung City )
Co-curated by the Kaohsiung Museum of Fine Arts, National Gallery Singapore, and Singapore Art Museum, this exhibition focuses on female artists who are representative of the diverse backgrounds brought together by the “South.” It pays attention to marginalized histories, gender, geographies, and artistic practices, weaving narratives that are both diverse and deeply rooted in the land. The exhibition showcases groundbreaking works of Taiwanese and Southeast Asian artists from the past three decades, presenting a multifaceted panorama of contemporary women’s art. www.kmfa.gov.tw
Concerts, Theater, Exhibitions, Festivals, Shows
ARTQUAKE IN AUTUMN
秋天藝術節
Oct 4 ~ Dec. 1
National Theater/National Concert Hall ( Taipei City )
Artquake in Autumn is a series of shows that provide opportunities for dialogue and contemplation through theater, dance, and music. This year’s theme, Invisible Shore , “describes all that is experienced, erased, broken, and mended on the journey from one shore to another, as well as tells the stories of those who have drifted, but not necessarily arrived.” There are six shows in November, including a techno-music party dance show choreographed by Franco-Austrian choreographer and director Gisèle Vienne and a thought-provoking play by Thai director Wichaya Artamat. npac-ntch.org
Exhibition 3
BEAUTY SPEAKS FOR ITSELF 大美不言
Sep 26 ~ Dec 29
National Palace Museum ( Taipei City )
Jan 23 ~ Apr 20
Southern Branch of the National Palace Museum ( Chiayi County )
Beauty Speaks for Itself is a groundbreaking exhibition held in collaboration with Paris’ renowned Musée des Arts Décoratifs and High Jewelry Maison Van Cleef & Arpels. Inspired by the timeless wisdom of ancient Chinese philosopher Zhuangzi, the exhibition’s title evokes the natural beauty and elegance inherent in each meticulously curated piece. Over 260 masterworks spanning centuries are showcased, including exquisite ceramic, jade, glass, bronze, silver, gold, graphic art, sculpture, textile, furniture, high jewelry, and luxury watch creations. www.npm.gov.tw
Exhibition 4
THE INNER, OUTER SELF AND
IN-BETWEEN:
TSENG PEI-YAO
內外之相：曾培堯的藝術生命
Oct 1 ~ Jan 5
Tainan Art Museum ( Tainan City )
Tseng Pei-yao (1927-1991), a representative artist from the city of Tainan, is a unique and crucial figure in the development of Taiwanese art history. He made significant contributions to the development of art in southern Taiwan. His rich life experience epitomized a contemporary Tainan-centric perspective, extending his influence to Taiwan and the global art community. This exhibition presents a multifaceted view of Tseng’s life story, interwoven with his artistic creations and archival materials. His iconic “convex mark,” resembling a keyhole, invites viewers to find their own key to life, unlocking the eternal within fleeting moments and exploring the various aspects of their inner and outer selves. www.tfam.museum
Theater 5 5 6 4
FC BERGMAN –THE SHEEP SONG
柏格曼劇團《羊之歌》
Dec 6 ~ 7
National Taichung Theater ( Taichung City )
Dance 6
2024 TAIWAN DANCE PLATFORM
2024 臺灣舞蹈平台
Nov 2 ~ Dec 1
National Kaohsiung Center for the Arts, Weiwuying ( Kaohsiung City )
The Sheep Song is a thought-provoking masterpiece that defies expectations. Produced by innovative Belgian theater company FC Bergman it explores themes of identity, belonging, and the human condition through a whimsical fable about a sheep yearning to become human. Praised for its captivating storytelling and surreal imagery, the troupe has been invited to perform the work at prestigious festivals worldwide. The show seamlessly blends comedy, tragedy, and surrealism to create a powerful and unforgettable experience. www.npac-ntt.org
Dance, in the digital age, has found a dynamic medium for preservation and expression. Film has not only transformed the dissemination of dance but also its pace and visual style. How can dance be remembered and understood in today’s fast-paced world and how can it avoid being lost to time? This year, curator Chou Shu-Yi has proposed the theme Dance: A Bodily History. The aim is to discover dance films that transcend traditional aesthetic conventions and explore historical memories through diverse perspectives. www.npac-weiwuying.org
Come for the Scenery, Stay for the Culture
A Pick and Mix of East Taiwan’s Experiential Travel Offerings
TEXT AMI BARNES PHOTOS CHEN CHENG-KUO, VISION
The counties of Hualien and Taitung in east Taiwan receive much love for their scenic beauty. Ask why you should visit, and you’ll be treated to breathless talk of marble-laced gorges, cliffs rising from an implausibly teal ocean, wild hot springs, and multi-day treks to alpine lakes – every word of it true. Less frequently cited but no less manifold are the immersive cultural experiences offered by this ethnically diverse region.
Items made with natural materials during a hunter survival course at Cidal Hunter School in Hualien
East Taiwan’s coastal terraces are considered to be the cradle of civilization in Taiwan. Artifacts discovered in caves and burial sites scattered among the hills hint at a period of habitation stretching back over 10,000 years, and among the descendants of those early inhabitants are members of the 11 different indigenous groups populating the region today. Over the centuries, they have watched waves of outsiders come and go and come and settle. Now, the region is one of the most ethnically diverse in all of Taiwan, and many native residents have found they can make a living by sharing their culture and way of life with open-minded travelers.
EAST
Hualien
Cidal Hunter School
“If only we had more time, I could spend a whole day talking about these,” our host Panay Falao said, gesturing at plants lining a 20m-long trail running between an outdoor classroom and an archery range. After a morning in her company, I had no reason to doubt her. Panay belongs to the Amis ethnic group (“Amis” is the name used by the government; members themselves prefer “Pangcah”), and as the co-founder of Cidal Hunter School, the reformed office worker is on a mission to preserve and share her heritage.
The ocean-facing school sits on the low slopes of the Coastal Mountain Range just outside Shoufeng Township’s Shuilian (Ciwidiyan) Village and is a 40min drive south of the city of Hualien’s center. Depending on what time of year you visit, Cidal has several different itineraries to pick from. They’re all bookable through the school website, which – like the onsite teaching – is Chinese-only, so enlisting the assistance of someone who can translate would be useful. Activities available include eco-printing, crab hunting, archery, village tours, traditional Amis meals, bushcraft courses, and even overnight stays. On a recent Travel in Taiwan visit, we were there for the half-day hunter survival experience, which aims to let visitors understand how a hunter meets all basic survival needs with nothing more than a knife.
I have to confess to holding a couple of unfounded assumptions before our visit. I was expecting something more superficial, and given that “hunter” is in the name of the school, I had also anticipated we would be learning primarily about hunting and killing – not something your vegetarian writer is
too keen on. On both scores, I was happily proved wrong. This was no gimmicky tribal photo op – Panay was intent on ensuring we left better informed than when we arrived, and what’s more, since the Amis are famed for their skillful use of greenery, plants turned out to be the primary medium of instruction for this introduction to their culture.
Panay began our crash course by cleanly slicing off several heart-shaped elephant ear leaves from a patch of weeds beside one of the school’s buildings. Handing us one each, she asked what we thought it could be used for. Between us, we came up with a few ideas; maybe an umbrella, a seat, a plate, a hat.
Amis guide Panay Falao
"Bottles" made from elephant ear leaves
But no one guessed the use she had in mind: a water bottle.
With the right guidance, the transformation from leaf to water bottle is simple, even for novices. Holding the paler, cleaner underside facing towards me, Panay had me bend my leaf so that I could pinch the tip of its heart against the stem between my forefinger and thumb. With my spare hand, I then folded down one of the lobes, fingerwalking it into scrunched-up pleats until there was no slack remaining, and repeating the procedure on the other lobe. At this point, the bottle had already taken shape, and Panay demonstrated how to fasten everything in place with a length of natural twine. Then came the moment of truth – dipping my vessel into a bucketful of water – and when I lifted it up, it bore a pleasingly heavy load. Of course, in a village with buckets at our disposal, this is hardly necessary, but such methods could easily come in handy when transporting water from stream to mountain camp.
School
Next up, we were introduced to shell ginger or yuetao (Mandarin pronunciation), a plant that grows all over Taiwan at low-to-mid elevations. Its extreme usefulness transcends ethnic divisions, and no matter whether you’re talking to indigenous or Han Chinese elders, they should be able to tell you at least one way in which it is used. Listening to Panay, though, it became a wonder plant with a million and one potential applications.
Snug rose-shaped knots tied using lengths of the outer layers form the basis of a mountain shelter. Before climate change pushed seasons offkilter, its late-spring blooming was a kind of floral calendar, reminding coastal communities to ready their nets for the annual flying fish migration. Its leaves can be used to transport food
and – like its flowers – make tea, while hunters in a pinch can sip the life-giving nectar directly. The seeds, rhizomes, and tender hearts all have aromatic or medicinal functions. In the hands of deft weavers, it can become all sorts of useful items. And, if you select the right piece of the sheath, you can make a small whistle that mimics the sound of a bamboo partridge well enough to lure in the territorial birds – although these days, hunters are more likely to use a cassette player to do the job.
Talk of turning to modern methods prompted broader discussion on how contemporary indigenous folk view themselves and their culture, particularly regarding tourism. Panay was quick to point out that if you ask fifty people for their thoughts on
the subject you’ll get fifty different opinions, but for her part, she says that as long as visitors are willing to learn the significance of the artifacts or activities, then she is happy to share her culture.
Our schooling continued on the way to the archery range. We were introduced to the four important plant species found in the vicinity of every Amis community: breadfruit, longan, velvet apple trees, and betel palms. Between them, they meet the basic sustenance and ceremonial needs of a family. We also gathered fistfuls of fallen soapberries – so named because when wetted and rubbed vigorously between cupped palms, they soon produce a foamy lather that cleanses both bodies and clothes.
Amis archery pro A-Long
EAST TAIWAN Experiential
Down on the range, we met a village elder, teacher, wordsmith, and archery pro who was introduced to us as A-Long. With his handmade bow and a pouch full of slender wooden arrows on his hip, A-Long made it look easy, sending flight after flight into the center of a target decorated with a cartoonishly cylindrical boar. After retrieving them, he gave us a closer look and showed us notes such as “veers left” handwritten on the shafts to assist with aim and the modifications he’d made to ensure they flew parallel to the ground – when your arrows are made from bamboo, you’ve got to bend your technique to meet the materials halfway.
Capping off our visit, Panay showed us how to braid circlets from a section of coconut palm leaf, which we then donned for the obligatory memento photo. While this shot of us with bows poised and headdresses in place is definitely the most dramatic image from our time at the school, it is not the part that has remained with me. For me, the enduring memory is Panay’s deep understanding of her environment and her ability to reframe my perception of everyday plants through sharing her knowledge.
CIDAL HUNTER SCHOOL ( 吉籟獵人學校 ) (03) 851-3990 No. 179, Shuilian Rd., Shoufeng Township, Hualien County ( 花蓮縣壽豐鄉水璉路 179 號 ) www.cidal.com.tw (Chinese)
Learning how to make a circlet Soapberries
Taitung
Imagine Taitung
Luye is a quiet, deeply rural township at the southern end of the East Rift Valley. The region’s scenery has a Ghibliesque quality with blue skies, green mountains, and the occasional flash of orange-and-white-liveried express trains reflected in the mirror-like surfaces of paddy fields. An agricultural patchwork blanket of bananas, pineapples, avocados, guavas, loquats, custard apples, papayas, and dragon fruit each take their turn to swell and ripen, while on higher slopes tea pickers endure blazing sun to harvest leaves that will become Luye’s specialty red oolong.
Tourism here is something of an all-or-nothing affair. Every summer, thousands of visitors descend upon the Luye Plateau for the month-long Taiwan International Balloon Festival (balloontaiwan.taitung.gov.tw), while for the other 11 months, there are few outsiders. The founders of Imagine Taitung felt that this was a wasted opportunity. More specifically, they believed that the seasonal rhythms of agricultural life could form the basis of many an engaging slow-travel experience, and so the company was born. Initial offerings centered around connecting local farmers with curious incomers. That soon expanded to incorporate an online platform allowing small-scale producers to sell to a wider audience, and the final step involved establishing a physical headquarters to serve as a base for the farm tours along with a kitchen-cum-classroom where local produce could be explored in greater depth. These days the company’s cooperations allow it to cover an impressive variety of activities ranging from high-adrenalin adventures to handicraft workshops and several farm-totable experiences.
Tea picking in Luye Township
Taiwan International Balloon Festival
Picking three, sometimes four, leaves at a time is the general rule
During our recent Travel in Taiwan visit, we spent the best part of a day with Imagine Taitung and were able to take part in two of their curated activities. The first of these was centered around tea picking and tasting, designed to give visitors an introduction to red oolong tea. Despite having lived in Taiwan for a fair number of years and hailing from the notoriously tea-obsessed UK, I am essentially a tea-drinking neophyte. I’ve not been bitten by the bubble tea bug and have only been proactively frequenting drinks shops for the past year or so. Suffice to say, I had a lot to learn!
Tea picking is best done when the moisture content of the leaves is lowest. On dry days, this means pickers work from first light through the blistering midday heat, hence the industry’s unofficial uniform of a conical bamboo hat accessorized with sun-faded detachable sleeves. Cheer – our guide for the morning – helped us get kitted up, completing the look with squares of fabric folded into triangles and tied beneath our chins to keep the backs of our necks well covered. She showed us how to pluck off the tips – pinching just below the third leaf, snapping it up and away from the body. The motion seems simple enough, but imagine doing it all day and you can see how you’d soon end up sore. She explained that professional pickers get around this by taping blades to both index fingers, allowing for easy simultaneous two-handed picking. This method also enables them to pick more and pick faster – important for workers whose daily pay is measured by the weight of leaves collected. Being under no such time pressures ourselves, we meandered along the rows filling our bags until we had enough to use for the later teainstruction class.
Wearing a Taiwanese farmer's hat is a must for tea pickers
Fresh tea leaves
In Imagine Taitung’s second-floor classroom, we were schooled in the various production methods used for making different types of tea. Broadly speaking, teas in Taiwan are categorized into six types based on the color of the tea after brewing – white, green, yellow, red, black, and qing (a color that sits somewhere between green and yellow). The color is determined not by the cultivar of tea used, but by the order, types, and degrees of processes it undergoes after picking, and names such as oolong, pu’er, and oriental beauty are used to distinguish teas that have been processed following a specified set of procedures. Our leaves – we were told –were from jinxuan cultivar plants and would be undergoing light processing consisting of just two steps (withering and drying), resulting in a white tea. In contrast, Luye’s famous red oolong is made utilizing a multi-stage process involving withering, rolling, fermentation, and drying. With the basics in the bag, we were then introduced to two types of locally made red oolong. Over a series of steepings, we were encouraged to explore how the tea’s scent and flavor progressed, how the mouth-feel evolved, how each steeping brought subtle differences in scent (honeyed pineapple, fresh florals, grassy), and how each taste activated different areas of the tongue. I still cannot claim to be a tea connoisseur, but I am confident in saying that I ended the day with a deeper appreciation for the nuances of the drink.
The second activity we tried our hand at was a farm-to-table pineapple jam-making experience. We followed Cheer’s car down ever-narrowing roads sandwiched between rows of fruit trees until we found ourselves rattling along the grassy track leading to Farmer Niu’s pineapple patch. Sporting a deep tan, a hat with an inbuilt mosquito net, and an age-holed T-shirt onto which he had stitched loose protective sleeves, Niu looked every inch the farmer. Leading us deeper into the greenery, Niu explained that August is generally right at the tail end of the pineapple harvesting season, but that he’d left a few because he knew we’d be visiting. Unlike some of the neatly serried ranks passed on our drive, the farmer’s organic and pesticide-free patch was not instantly discernible. Blackjack and floss flower ran rampant between rows – the spiky forms of the pineapple plants only revealing themselves after a closer second glance. To pick them, we wore thick gloves and were shown how to grasp the fruit and twist while exerting a gentle downward force. The fruits came away more easily than I’d anticipated. So easily in fact that – at the risk of spoiling the magic of photography – I spent more time pretending to pick pineapples for the camera than I spent actually picking them.
Tea processing and tea drinking with Imagine Taitung
The cultivar Niu grows is known as cayenne or native pineapple. Appearance-wise, they’re smaller and more spherical than the pineapple you’re probably picturing in your head, while their high acidity and fibrousness make them ideally suited to canning, jamming, and becoming the sticky-sweet filling of a pineapple cake. With this in mind, the second half of our pineapple experience saw us heading back to Imagine Taitung’s kitchen workshop, where we cooked up a batch of jam. The sweet tang of the fruit’s pale-yellow flesh filled the kitchen as we chopped it into small chunks and added it to a pan with brown sugar. Finely sliced strips of green lemon rind were the third and final ingredient, and the completed concoction was ready to bottle and take home in under an hour. When we had finished there was still a little left in the pan, which was promptly scooped out in heaped spoonfuls and added to cups of red oolong – a final sweet reward for the day’s hard work.
Much like Cidal Hunter School, Luanshan Forest Culture Museum, run by members of the Bunun tribe, wasn’t initially conceived of as being somewhere for outsiders. Instead, it was born from one man’s desire to preserve Bunun stewardship of the land from which their cultural roots drew life. Aliman Madiklan was the first man from the indigenous Luanshan (Sazasa) community to graduate from university. As a scholar and journalist of indigenous themes, he was well aware of the pressures his community faced. He’d seen many a slow disintegration as native villages sold off pockets of land to developers here and there. So, when prospectors came with plans for this patch of forest in the shadow of Mt. Dulan, he did what he knew he had to – he took out a loan and bought the right to oversee its continued existence.
That was over two decades ago, and under Aliman’s curatorship, the museum without walls has flourished into a space where Bunun culture is lived and shared. It’s both a training ground for young tribe members and a space where outsiders can come to learn more about traditional ways of living. Experiences offered here include half-day, full-day, and overnight excursions, and while the itineraries vary somewhat based on the length of your stay, there are a couple of elements that remain consistent. Groups are welcomed with a small gift of food and drinks, and before diving deeper into the tribe’s forest,
A weeping fig in the Luanshan forest
Group dance
Guided forest walk
everyone participates in a land ceremony to greet the tribe’s ancestral mountain spirits. (The museum asks that guests bring one pack of betel nuts and a bottle of rice wine per group as votives for use in the proceedings.)
Offerings made, groups are led on a hike through the community’s forest. Highlights include a sideways scramble through a slot canyon that’s so narrow it inspires fleeting fears of getting jammed, and an encounter with an ancient grove of “walking trees”. Ficus benjamina, or the weeping fig, is a strange beast in that it grows by colonizing other trees and then sending out trailing aerial roots. When these flimsy roots find purchase they delve deep into the ground, gradually thickening until they become strong and sturdy enough to support more branches. Over time, this leads to the impression that the trees are moving, creeping stealthily through the forest when there’s no one there to watch. The walking trees here at Luanshan Forest Culture Museum are thought to be as old as 500 years, and visitors get to know them intimately as they scramble up and between their vine-like roots.
The museum prides itself on being a bastion of traditional culture, and as such it is operated without electricity. All guests are encouraged to embrace this by turning their phones off (or at the very least, leaving them on silent), and those who choose to linger longer are treated to a mountain feast cooked using entirely traditional methods.
LUANSHAN FOREST CULTURE MUSEUM
( 鸞山森林文化博物館 ) 0911-154-806
No. 21, Luanshan Rd., Luanshan Village, Yanping Township, Taitung County ( 台東縣延平鄉鸞山村鸞山路 21 號 ) www.forestculturemuseum.com.tw (Chinese)
ENGLISH AND CHINESE
Amis tribe | 阿美族
Bunun tribe | 布農族
Coastal Mountain Range | 海岸山脈
East Rift Valley | 花東縱谷
Elephant ear | 姑婆芋
jinxuan | 金萱
Luanshan | 鸞山
Luye | 鹿野
Luye Plateau | 鹿野高台
Mt. Dulan | 都蘭山
qing | 青
Shuilian Village | 水璉村 yuetao | 月桃
Offerings to the mountain spirits
Scrambling
Dining at A Joy
A Round-Island Feast for the Senses
Taiwanese love their buffets, especially those offered by higher-end establishments featuring a dizzying selection of exquisite international fare, often located in a swanky mall or hotel with stunning views. These options usually provide excellent value, so avoid rushing your meal. Take your time to appreciate the variety of delicious dishes available. One of the island’s shining examples of an upscale buffet restaurant is A Joy, located near the top of the iconic Taipei 101 skyscraper.
A Joy is not the type of buffet restaurant where gorging your money’s worth is the priority. Take the time to read the labels to see where the ingredients come from, listen to the enthusiastic servers and chefs explain the essence of the dishes, and savor the complex flavors while indulging your other senses. Diners will be drawn out of their seats as certain art installations come to life, and they can also search for the spots where a fixed camera will take their group photo. As the meal comes to an end, every customer is given a postcard that they can mail to anyone in the world, sending the love letter onward.
While A Joy has been fully booked every day since it opened in July 2023, with just 282 seats in the 1,835-squaremeter space, there’s plenty of elbow space and diners don’t have to queue too long for the popular items.
This is the latest venture for Feastogether Group, which opened its first buffet restaurant, Eat Together, in 2002 and now runs 11 restaurant brands in Taiwan. A Joy’s Chinese name, 饗 , literally means “to entertain with food and drink,” with the character fittingly made up of two parts that individually mean “food” and “homeland.” The English name comes from the words of Sufi poet Rumi: “When you do things from your soul, you feel a river moving in you, A Joy.”
With such creative offerings as “salty soy milk jelly with minced shrimp,” “grilled ribeye with peeled chili peppers cream sauce,” and “mullet roe chocolate cake,” A Joy aims to infuse Taiwan’s unique flavors and ingredients into its sumptuous feast for the senses. The restaurant deconstructs traditional dishes from the collective Taiwanese memory and reinterprets them using different culinary techniques.
This creative undertaking goes beyond the food, manifesting as soon as visitors enter the main space, an artistically arranged landscape filled with plants native to Taiwan’s mountains. A special soundtrack incorporating everyday sounds such as cooking with a wok plays in the background, while the fragrances from the vegetation waft through the air. Even the staff uniforms, created by renowned designer Justin Chou, reflect the island’s natural imagery and incorporate traditional indigo dyeing and banana fiber techniques.
The space, located on the 86 th floor of Taipei 101, is divided into four areas representing the island’s geography – mountain, sea, plains, and city – and is adorned with Taiwanese artworks and appliances crafted by notable artisans. True to its theme, the restaurant is a delicious “love letter to the world” that should be enjoyed with care.
URBAN WALKS Taipei
After being whisked up to the 86th floor, patrons exit the elevator to a darkly lit space featuring an indigo-dye display of Taiwan’s layered mountain ranges. A door then opens up to the “mountain” section containing the aforementioned artistic landscape. The windows beyond the interior mountainscape provide sweeping views of the actual mountains encircling the sprawling metropolis nestled in the Taipei Basin.
The culinary feast begins at the “ocean” section, which opens with a ramie-weave art piece in different shades of blue, stretching across a curved wall. Titled “An existence embraced by the ocean,” it is the work of Taiwan indigenous artist Yuma Taru, who strives to preserve the weaving and dyeing techniques of the Atayal indigenous people she belongs to.
Starting with the hand-shucked oyster bar, a sea of fresh seasonal marine morsels such as king crab legs, Chiayi black clams, and assorted top-grade sashimi unfolds as far as the eye can see. The tamagoyaki (Japanese rolled omelet) cooked with broth is a favorite, as well as the hand-rolled sushi crafted on the spot, coming in three varieties: scallop and crab roe paste, bluefin tuna and shiso miso, and uni and sweet shrimp. The vinegar rice used in aburi (“seared”) sushi items is maintained at human body temperature, allowing for optimal enjoyment.
This section also features various appetizers, several of which utilize indigenous ingredients, such as the smoked pork jelly with millet porridge and magao (mountain peppercorn) caesar salad with salmon.
The “plains” section turns up the heat, with grilled seafood and meat, and fried delicacies. The earthy decor draws from the rural Chianan (Chiayi-Tainan) Plain, featuring window-grille-inspired lanterns and hand-thrown ceramic warming lamps. The grilled sweetfish packed with eggs is a hit, as well as the deep-fried Taiwanese classics such as popcorn chicken and gaozha , a unique fried minced-meats morsel originating from Yilan County.
Several fusion dishes also feature in this section, including Tainan’s famous eel noodles – but with pasta instead, topped with tiny “flavor pearls” made with black vinegar from the century-old Wu Yin brand.
The “city” section brings diners into the modern era with several futuristic artworks, including TechArtGroup’s hanging “Dream Capsule,” which contains 188 motors that deliver a mesmerizing kinetic light show at set hours. Another light show takes place in the “mountain” section, telling the story of how the indigenous Thao people chased a white deer for days until they came across Sun Moon Lake, which became their new homeland.
The city section offers classic street snacks and simple-eatery dishes such as fried rice and vermicelli, all with a creative twist. Highlights include a “Buddha jumps over the wall” dish served French-style in a puff pastry, and Peking duck flame-roasted with aged wine. Try to catch the chef setting the bird on fire; it’s a spectacle. Cantonese dim sum is also offered, featuring xiaolongbao (steamed broth-filled dumplings) with truffle and crab roe varieties.
Save room for dessert – there’s ice cream created in collaboration with local favorite Double V, and also pastries assisted by Le Ruban Pâtisserie. The offerings, which include dried persimmon pumpkin cake and a red guava mousse, change according to season. The chocolates stand out, with improbable Taiwanese ingredients such as fermented bean curd, fried shallot, as well as parsley and peanuts. There’s also a selection of traditional sweets, including a mini tortoise-shaped glutinous-rice cake and dragon beard candy.
饗 A J oy (02) 8101-0111
86F, No. 7, Sec. 5, Xinyi Rd., Taipei City ( 台北市信義路五段 7 號 86 樓 ) www.ajoy.com.tw
The drinks section goes full local – the only sodas available are the timeless HeySong Sarsaparilla and Vitali, which are also used in the Taiwanesethemed cocktails by the famed Perry Palate Plan. The refreshing offerings include Peanut Cacao Passion Paradise and a Smoky Wax Gourd Shot.
The only beer is of course Taiwan Beer, but it’s the popular 18-day draft variety delivered straight from the brewery as soon as it’s ready. The coffee is provided by world champion Simple Kaffa, which consistently attracts long lines just for takeout.
Finally, cleanse your palate with selected Taiwanese teas from Zen Zen Thé, or if you still have room in your stomach, try the popular red oolong bubble milk tea.
A Joy’s elevated vantage point, offering sweeping panoramic views, is a key attraction. On New Year's Eve, the restaurant hosts four dining sessions: two for lunch and two for dinner, each accommodating a maximum of 282 guests. The dinner session begins at 6pm and extends until 1am on New Year's Day, providing an opportunity to savor delectable cuisine, fine wines, and live music as we bid farewell to the old year.
For those attending the late-night session, a truly unforgettable experience awaits. As the clock strikes midnight, guests can witness the dazzling Taipei 101 fireworks display from the comfort of the restaurant, immersing themselves in the vibrant spectacle.
“There’s no point in visiting the East Coast now, right ?” “Wrong !”
Since a magnitude 7.4 earthquake struck Hualien County this April, causing major damage in Taiwan’s world-class scenic and natural wonder Taroko Gorge, outdoor enthusiasts have been slow to return to this part of the island. But Hualien — and eastern Taiwan in general — is and always has been much more than just Taroko Gorge. Why not take this as your cue to explore some of the many alternative adventure opportunities presented in the east Taiwan region? While Taroko Gorge rests and recuperates following April’s earthquake, this is a great time to explore more broadly from whale watching to zip lining in the forest to exploring lesserseen corners of popular scenic spots – the region offers a wealth of experiential variation for those seeking to embrace the great outdoors.
TEXT AMI BARNES PHOTOS CHEN CHENG-KUO, VISION
Whale watching off the Hualien Coast
Dolphin/Whale Watching
On a bright recent morning at Hualien Fishing Harbor, I was with a group of eager would-be cetacean spotters waiting to board a whale-watching boat operated by the Hualien-based Turumoan outfit. Steaming eastward, our vessel kicked up a tail of white spume as we left the shelter of the harbor walls and headed for open waters. Buildings on the shore shrank, pulled into perspective by the towering backdrop of the Central Mountain Range, which was newly streaked with white scars where April’s earthquake had shaken trees and rocks free of their moorings. Ahead of us, nothing but cloudless sky and calm ocean.
Taiwan’s east coast is a great area for whale watching. Of the roughly 90 species of cetacean found worldwide, 31 have been seen in the island’s waters, mostly along the east coast. Here, a deep ocean basin sinks to 3,000 meters and the northbound flow of the Kuroshio (Black Current) brings warmer waters filled with a delectable seafood buffet. Dolphins are most commonly sighted – Risso’s, spinner, pantropical spotted, and bottlenose are all frequent visitors – but whale sightings are not unusual either. Turumoan’s active Facebook page shows videos of killer whales, pilot whales, and even a sperm whale or two – the latter so long they rival the length of the whalewatching boat.
Nearly an hour out from land, and we still hadn’t seen anything. Despite this, the guide kept up a constant commentary (in Chinese) – pointing out coastal landmarks, drawing attention to pelagic seabirds or flying fish, and answering questions. (The award for most out-of-left-field questions went to a kid who asked, “Does it hurt mother whales when their babies suckle?” Our guide wasn’t sure, but promised to check once he got back to land.)
Just as I started to lose hope, the call went up, “Two o’clock! Two o’clock!” Sure enough, off the starboard bow, a dark shape broke through the water’s dimpled surface. First, a bulbous head, then a broad dorsal fin, and a humped tailstock tapering to a pointy-tipped fluke – the distinctive silhouette of a pilot whale. The first one was joined by another, then another, and before long we were surrounded by small clusters making up a larger pod of some thirty-odd. The captain cut the engine, allowing us to drift close by without alarming the magnificent creatures, and as the nearest ones surfaced, we could hear them expelling air through their blowholes – something I had only ever seen previously on nature documentaries. Reputable tour operators limit their interactions with marine life to 30 minutes. So, when our time was up, we turned back and headed for land, with several on board (myself included) having just ticked off a bucket list wish.
Wild Monkey Adventure Jungle occupies a hilly parcel of land roughly 40 minutes south of Hualien City. Spread out around an open-air check-in area, the park is an exhilarating maze of treetop walkways and zip lines where big kids (and regular-sized ones) can climb, jump, and zip through the trees like Tarzan. The course is divided into A and B sections. Section A is recommended for inexperienced monkeys, as well as younger or older participants, while section B is a bit more challenging. On a recent Travel in Taiwan visit, we opted for section B, but you’re bound to have fun whichever you choose. Upon arrival, the instructors outfitted each of us with a helmet, a harness connected to a nifty trolley device, and three gloves (double for your dominant hand, since you need to use it to control your speed on the zip wires). We were then led over to the start of the rope course. Watching one of the staff slip my harness’s metal trolley onto the rope, it seemed woefully inadequate, but
once I stepped up and saw how the thing worked, I was reassured. The kit used here is a combination of steel ropes and a rolling continuous belay system, which means that after you’re fed onto the course at the start, there’s no way to come loose until you slide off at the far end (although the “Regret Platform,” after an initial series of warm-up walkways, offers a quick get-out for those having second thoughts).
With the safety aspect dealt with, I threw myself into the course with the kind of abandon that I used to attack things with as a child, before the fear of pain and falling off things began to take up more space in my brain than the anticipation of fun. Besides, any initial queasiness at my newly elevated vantage point was eclipsed by the more immediate challenge of coordinating my limbs with this new way of moving. Each walkway presented a slightly different challenge, with the result that both body and brain were fully occupied with the task at hand. No one could describe my ungainly
wobbling as being monkeyesque, but that’s beside the point – it was excellent fun.
After mastering ropewalks, we progressed to climbing walls –undoubtedly the most challenging element, especially for those with shorter arms and legs. Traversing the walls required stretching and upper-body strength, but thankfully, one of the instructors was there to offer advice and a literal helping hand. Our playtime concluded with zip line flights over a leafy dell, an experience our instructors allowed us to repeat so that we could first focus on technique before attempting it again to enjoy the brief glimpse of the East Rift Valley through the trees.
(Chinese) www.facebook.com/monkey193
The man behind Wild Monkey Adventure Jungle occasionally takes visitors on a ride on his self-made mini train
Walking across a wobbly bridge
On a lightly challenging walk through the jungle
EAST TAIWAN Adventures
Sanxiantai
The name Sanxiantai – or for a literal translation, Platform of the Three Immortals – is derived from legendary folklore characters, the Eight Immortals. Sanitized, tourist- and child-friendly accounts of a local tale say that three of the eight, Lü Dong-bin, Li Tie-guai, and He Xian-gu, once stopped here for a rest, but there’s a second, more colorful version. In that telling, incurable womanizer Lü took He into one of the islet’s sea caves for a bit of adult private time, only to be followed by Li. When a guardian god from the South Gate of the Heavenly Court caught the latter peeping, he attempted to punish him, but accidentally turned all three to stone.
Bawdy mythical figures aside, the islet was historically an isthmus used by the local Amis tribe
for goat herding. Over time, erosion shaped it into an islet, accessible only at low tide, but this changed in 1987 with the construction of an elegant eightarched bridge. The structure, which has the look of a serpentine dragon, has since become one of the east coast’s top stops for photo ops.
Many tourists remain near the mainland end of the bridge, but those who cross it will find a boardwalk that cuts through tangled screw pine and white-budded beach cabbage, eventually reaching the foreshore on the islet’s sea-facing side. From here, you can scramble over fossilized corals and rockpools filled with sea critters. We even encountered a trio of banded sea kraits (highly venomous, exceedingly docile) chilling in a shady pool.
Aerial view of Sanxiantai islet and its iconic footbridge
One of the trail’s highlights is Hehuan Cave – the scene of Lü and He’s alleged tryst. The cave cuts through the rock for 60 meters to emerge on the outer edge of the islet, and slight twists at each end mean that no light penetrates the central portion. The darkness was so total that my phone barely illuminated the reflective railings, and in the absence of anything to look at, I found my attention focused on the pounding of the waves echoing off damp walls. After returning to the entrance of the cave and turning left, the adventure culminates at Sanxiantai Lighthouse. Built by the Japanese in 1915, this was the first such navigational aid on Taiwan’s east coast, and visitors who undertake the steep climb up the stairs can enjoy sweeping views of the ocean and mainland coastline.
Over the past few years, Sanxiantai has also become popular with a more adventurous crowd. Several local outfits offer stand-up paddleboarding (SUP) and kayaking experiences, and most have three sailings per day – the earliest being a sunrise excursion. Sunrises of any kind are undeniably magical, but I can say from recent first-hand experience that there’s something about being adrift on a still-dark sea as the first rays creep over the horizon that magnifies the magic. Nevertheless, if waking up early sounds painful, perhaps you’d be better suited to a nighttime walking tour. These stargazing and eco-observation trips are held over the warmer months (April through October), and allow visitors to enjoy Sanxiantai's low levels of light pollution and impressive biodiversity.
Late-afternoon sun over Taiwan's high mountains
Boardwalk on Sanxiantai islet
Sanxiantai Lighthouse
A Slow-Paced Paradise
Discover Cultural Gems and Picturesque Landscapes in East Taiwan
While island Taiwan’s west side and far north are places of dense population and fast-paced activity, its east – Hualien and Taitung counties – is a land of more idyllic human/nature balance. Mountains come close to the rugged coastal shore the entire length, leaving slivers of flat and fertile space for a less dense population to use. Tall palms sway, breakers roll timelessly in from the big-blue broad Pacific, deep narrow valleys cut away inland, sliced through the mountain fastness by impossibly small rivers, and relaxation permeates the air.
Below, discover a few themed suggestions that will immerse you in the enchanting beauty of Eastern Taiwan, featuring some must-see cultural and scenic attractions in the vibrant cities of Hualien and Taitung, as well as in the serene valley that connects them.
There are two cities on the east coast, Hualien and Taitung, named like the counties they are part of, and we’re visiting both. Each has a population of about 100,000, and both have significant indigenous populations, as does the Hualien/Taitung region as a whole. The city of Hualien is at the north mouth of the 180km-long, narrow, fertile, and majestically mountaincupped East Rift Valley – which we’re visiting as well –and Taitung is at the south mouth.
Hualien City –History and Nostalgia
In Hualien City, a few hours at the Hualien County Stone Sculpture Museum ( stone.hccc.gov.tw) is highly recommended. The eponymous county is a lucrative source of world-class marble, jade, rose stone, and other stones, and while perusing the museum’s indoor exhibits and Outdoor Stone Sculpture Park you will learn all about how the region has become a creative hive for stone sculpture art, viewing modern works as well as antique Buddhist sculptures, aesthetic elements taken from heritage buildings, and other traditional stone works.
The complex that is today the abode of the Hualien Railway Culture Park was originally the operations center for all eastern railway operations, constructed in 1932. You can view displays in buildings once housing offices for senior administrators, construction section personnel, railway police, archives, detention cells, and a blacksmith workshop, and enjoy a period-costume experience. Sitting outside is a refurbished heritage steam locomotive used in the east.
Don’t miss the chance to check out some of Hualien’s alluring nostalgia cafés. Café Shouwa (www.facebook. com/shouwa58 ) brings you back to Japan’s imperial Showa era; the Japanese-style desserts are delectable. Morning Mountain (www.facebook.com/himorningmountain) is in a quaint Japanese-style wood-built dormitory building used by the Japanese imperial forest service. Mole Man (www. instagram.com/chihnan_ ) is your time transporter to 1960s Hualien culture.
While in the city, be sure to visit Dongdamen Night Market, the city’s largest night market with 400-plus stalls, which has an irresistible carnival flair. Laid out in a street grid, it sits on a massive square paved with black and white granite slabs, bringing a distinct “stone of Hualien” flavor. Likely of greatest interest for foreign visitors will be the “Indigenous People’s Street,” with stalls serving bamboo rice, barbecued wild boar, stir-fried mountain vegetables, millet wine, and other specialties.
A meal in the Hualien Railway Culture Park
Taitung City – Scenic and Cultural Parks
The Beinan River drains the waters of the East Rift Valley’s south sector, debouching into the sea just to Taitung City’s north. Between the city and the river sits the 280ha Taitung Forest Park , a splendid place for cycling. Taitung folk call this coast-protecting reserve the “Black Forest,” after its tall, dark-hue beefwood trees. Leave time for the two lakes in the park; Pipa Lake has lookouts to savor the bird and fish inhabitants, and Flowing Lake has facilities for water fun such as kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding.
The forest park’s bikeway connects with Haibin (Seashore) Park , stretched out seaside beside the city’s northeast quarter. The cycling you’re doing here is all part of the popular 21km Taitung Mountain-Ocean Bikeway. In contrast to the forest zone, Haibin Park is a wide-open, breeze-swept expanse with sweeping Pacific views eastward and sky-bound peaks westward. Its manmade aesthetic showpiece is Paposogan, a large rattan dome with a tree-shaded viewing deck. Inside is a large rattan tree, which represents Earth; the dome
symbolizes the surrounding universe.
Taking you right through the city’s heart, southeast to northwest, is the green and breezy 6km Taitung Old Railway Corridor. The city’s original railway station – at the corridor’s southeast terminus – was retired in 2001, and a new station was built on the northwest outskirts. Today the cycling/walking route is framed with planted trees and further prettified with garden landscaping. At the southeast end of the corridor is the Taitung Railway Art Village, a key local tourist gem.
Taitung Sugar Factory Cultural and Creative Park , which is along the aforementioned mountainocean cycleway, is Taitung County’s largest industrialheritage complex. As with Taiwan’s arsenal of other priceless sugar-factory heritage sites today refashioned into tourist destinations, it was built by the Japanese during their rule of the island 1895-1945. You can easily lose yourself for a half day in this sprawling creative-arts space inhabited by galleries, workshops, craft shops, and cafés.
Taitung Forest Park
Cycling in the East Rift Valley
The East Rift Valley is a garden of charm for cycling enthusiasts, with a wide assortment of outing options, from dedicated bikeways to on-road routes. For the latter, the east’s low population density and comparative isolation from the crowded west/north mean low motor-vehicle density, and the highways have both wide shoulders and special markings for bike lanes. The East Rift Valley National Scenic Area Administration has a helpful introduction of nine of the premium excursion options online (theme.erv-nsa. gov.tw/bike/zh-tw/themes/list; Chinese). As samples, here are two especially popular with foreign visitors, one each in Hualien County and Taitung County.
The flat, 9.7km Yufu Bikeway is built on the railbed of an old railway line. “Yufu” refers to adjoining Yuli and Fuli, Hualien County’s southernmost townships. Most riders start at the north end, in the town of Yuli. While meandering past the enchantingly colorful rice paddies and rapeseed fields (in season), you traverse the long former railway bridge over the Xiuguluan River,
see the remains of the tiny former Antong Station, and can refresh before your return run at a sweet café inside the village of Dongli’s old station.
The 12km Guanshan Town Circle Bicycle Path was the very first dedicated bikeway created in Taiwan. It circles Guanshan in a large, lazy loop. There are two sections, a flat Water Section and a gentle-slope Mountain Section. The first takes you through rice paddies, with other highlights including irrigation canals, a strawberry and vanilla field, and bamboo art installations. The second lifts you above the town, presenting wide farm-field-tapestry vistas.
Two other selections notably popular with foreign visitors are the 4.8km lake-loop pathway at Hualien County’s Liyutan (Carp Lake), in a basin surrounded by low mountains, and the approximately 30km network of cycle paths beside the Taitung County town of Chishang, which whisk you through a sea of tiered rice paddies. Note that with all these options, bike rentals from quality operators are readily available.
ENGLISH AND CHINESE
Antong Station | 安通車站
Café Shouwa | 昭和58
Chishang | 池上
Dongdamen Night Market | 東大門夜市
Dongli | 東里
East Rift Valley | 花東縱谷
Flowing Lake | 活水湖
Fuli | 富里
Guanshan | 關山
Guanshan Town Circle Bicycle Path | 關山環鎮自行車道
Haibin Park | 海濱公園
Hualien Railway Culture Park | 花蓮鐵道文化園區
Hualien County Stone Sculpture Museum | 花蓮縣石雕博物館
AIndigenous People’s Street | 原住民一條街
Liyutan | 鯉魚潭
Mole Man | 痣男
Morning Mountain | 森山舍
Pipa Lake | 琵琶湖
Taitung Forest Park | 台東森林公園
Taitung Mountain-Ocean Bikeway | 台東山海鐵馬道
Taitung Old Railway Corridor | 台東舊鐵道路廊
Taitung Railway Art Village | 台東鐵道藝術村
Taitung Sugar Factory Cultural and Creative Park | 台東糖廠文創園區
Yufu Bikeway | 玉富自行車道
Yuli | 玉里
Liyutan (Carp Lake)
Exploring One of Taipei's Historic Districts
The timeless yet simultaneously progressive Dadaocheng neighborhood, by the Tamsui River on Taipei City’s west side, is a must-check day-outing experience with international visitors. This is one of the original pioneer settlement locations, founded in imperial times, around which today’s modern city was built. Visit the neighborhood to explore some of its many vibrant young cultural-creative ventures while immersing yourself in its deep history.
Eateries at Dadaocheng Cisheng Temple
TEXT RICK CHARETTE PHOTOS VISION
URBAN WALKS
Let’s start our day excursion by filling up our gastronomic gas tank at one of Dadaocheng’s most beloved hangouts for traditional hot snacks, the boisterously busy large square fronting Dadaocheng Cisheng Temple , one of the old-time spiritual and cultural hearts of the district. Throughout Taiwan’s history, the squares before temples have commonly been hotspots of commercial activity, attracting food and other vendors catering to the needs of worshippers arriving from near and far. In times past it was also common for a major business thoroughfare to then take root, growing outward from the square.
The original version of this temple – dedicated to Mazu, Goddess of the Sea – was erected in 1866, located very close to today’s Dadaocheng Wharf and overlooking the flourishing local riverport scene. It was rebuilt at its present location in the 1910s after the first was torn down by the Japanese (rulers over Taiwan 1895~1945) to facilitate road replotting, using original pillars and stones. Visitors to Dadaocheng have long made special trips to its courtyard food market, home to 40-plus vendors, to try the culinary specialties, many island-renowned.
Ye Family Meat Congee Minquan W. Rd.
Xu Zai Pork Trotter Vermicelli
Huanhe N. Rd.
First Record Shop
Kuo’s Astral Bookshop
Olympus Plaza Taipei
Dadaocheng Wharf Container Market
Dadaocheng Cisheng Temple
Qinjing Old Warehouse
Sin Hong Choon Tea Shop
Enough talk – let’s get eating! The signature offering at Ye Family Meat Congee , today run by the fourth generation, is considered among the top sold in Taipei. Congee features grains softened from cooking that remain whole while only minimally starchy. Pork and sweet potato chunks are normally added to the delicately flavored broth, and the dish is usually accompanied by savory side dishes. The most-ordered sides at Ye Family are the fried squid, pork liver, and oysters, plus the soy-braised pork belly.
Xu Zai Pork Trotter Vermicelli, like our justvisited congee operation, is a family-run venture, making bellies happy for over 50 years. The clear broth that comes with the signature dish is rich and moderately zesty while being free of any greasiness, and the chewy, tender meat, always exceedingly fresh, is lightly fatty giving it a pleasant texture. Your bowl is topped with ginger slices for a hint of spicy heat.
Among the other snack classics prepared at the vendor bazaar are four-tonics soup, squid soup, pig blood soup, pork rib soup, and whitebait fried rice. In Taiwanese xiaochi (“small eats”) snacking culture, sampling a little bit of everything is the definitive modus operandi. Here, chowing down under shady old banyan trees in a temple forecourt adds unique charm to the experience.
MRT Daqiaotou Station
Chongqing N. Rd.
Ye Family Meat Congee
Xu Zai Pork Trotter Vermicelli
URBAN WALKS Taipei
Qinjing Old Warehouse is a vintage/antiques store immediately south of Cisheng Temple, along the same narrow lane on which the temple’s food vendors are strung out. This is an archetypal old-time Taiwan alley of elderly narrow-front mixed-use residential/ commercial buildings, three to four stories tall with additional smaller jerry-built structures added on the roofs, the first floor given over to shops, remaining floors to living accommodations. The “warehouse” is a shop jammed to the rafters with treasures
from everyday Taiwan life the owner has collected over a lifetime, starting in his childhood, when he developed a passion for visiting just-abandoned homes and businesses to hunt for collectibles. Everything displayed is for sale.
Your trip down memory lane – well, new “Taiwan memories” for travelers from abroad – will include such exotic take-home souvenir items as oil-paper umbrellas made in Meinong – a Hakka township in southern Taiwan –Chinese deity figurines, Japanese-style money-beckoning cats from izakayas, manual shaved-ice machines, pop bottles with Hey Song Sarsaparilla and drinking glasses with Taiwan Beer and other local-brand logos, and both traditional Taiwanese and Japanese doll figures. The owner’s collecting goes ever on, and he promises customers new treasures with each visit.
Your guide on a sensory-rich journey into the sounds of Taiwan’s past is First Record Shop. It inhabits a heritage commercial building dating from the Japanese period sporting a façade that curves around the street corner it sits on, as does the arcade that runs along at street level. Shade-providing, rain-protection arcades are a quintessential feature in the commercial architecture of this era, introduced by the Japanese after seeing their efficacious use in Southeast Asia.
The record shop is a Dadaocheng icon, in operation for over six decades now. This is a retro gold mine – “golden oldies,” that is – packed to the gills with vintage Taiwan-idol vinyl records and LPs, cassettes, and CDs. In its heyday, Taipei folk would come to spot celebrities here, who would come to browse in the hip shop after leaving the popular theaters, dance halls, and other large-scale places of entertainment in the area. The store took its name from the famed, now-defunct First Theater, located diagonally across the street. Adding to the oldfashioned flavor of your experience while you hunt for your Teresa Teng serendipity souvenir will be the visual of one of the elderly proprietors with eyes glued to the old box TV propped up on a corner shelf.
FIRST RECORD SHOP ( 第一唱片行 )
(02) 2557-9029
No. 88, Bao'an St., Datong Dist., Taipei City ( 台北市大同區保安街 88 號 ) 8am-5pm (Sat/Sun from 9am)
Vinyl records and cassette tapes
Qingjing Old Warehouse Vintage items
First Record Shop
Tea, along with camphor, was at the heart of Dadaocheng’s rapid development after its settlement in the 1850s. Leaf was grown in the hills surrounding the Taipei Basin, brought here for processing, and river-boated to ships awaiting at the port of Tamsui on the north coast to be then sailed around the globe.
The elegant Sin Hong Choon Tea Shop is in a stately threestory building erected in 1934 as a tea-processing factory – the area’s largest. Sporting a yellow-tinted exterior, it is a synthesis of Taiwanese and Western architectural elements, including terrazzo stairs and red-brick walls inside. The facility was used by the resident owner-family in tea export to Southeast Asia.
After being abandoned for a time and slowly deteriorating, the building was bestowed protected heritage status in 2009 and, after thoroughgoing restoration, was reopened with a new tourism-oriented mission in 2015 – museum, cultural-education center, and shop.
The premises have been faithfully given the countenance of a 1930s tea merchant operation. The displays and presentations, with some English available, roll out an understanding of Taiwan’s oldtime tea trade, types of leaf, processing methods, and the historic building’s restoration. You’ll especially enjoy the presentation of the owner family’s living quarters and of the heritage teaprocessing machinery, learning how leaf was separated from stems and sorted by size, how it was slow-roasted over charcoal, etc. (you’ll still see these traditional practices used at tea farms throughout Taiwan). Then, at the quaint traditional-look retail shop, browse fine teas, tea-theme books, and other offerings.
SIN HONG CHOON TEA SHOP ( 新芳春茶行 )
(02) 7756-3910
No. 309, Minsheng W. Rd., Datong Dist., Taipei City ( 台北市大同區民生西路 309 號 ) 10am-6pm (closed on Mon/Tue)
Sin Hong Choon Tea Shop
Fine tea and tea utensils
Heritage elements of the tea trade
URBAN WALKS Taipei
Kuo’s Astral Bookshop, one of Dadaocheng’s largest independent bookstores, is on Dihua Street, Taipei’s oldest commercial street, which began to form in the 1850s when the site was settled by refugees from the upriver Bangka (Wanhua) settlement after fighting between Han Chinese settlers from different areas in China’s Fujian Province. Dihua and its offshoot streets teem with family-run heritage shophouses selling medicinal herbs, traditionalstyle fabrics, and regional specialty goods. In recent decades Dihua Street has undergone compelling beautification, with the ornate building façades revivified and the roadway paved with brick.
Family-operated Kuo’s is a storied enterprise, an intrinsic part of the landscape for Dadaocheng locals since 1922. First a general store, conversion to a bookseller was undertaken by the founder’s grandson. At today’s shop, the comeliness of the refurbished neoBaroque exterior is matched by the sleek aesthetics of the cleverly redesigned interior, putting Kuo’s among Dadaocheng’s most photogenic commercial establishments. One of many evocative examples is a striking wood-and-burnished metal staircase stretched through the shophouse atrium between the second and third floors; such atriums were a standard yesteryear architectural feature allowing in sun and fresh air.
KUO'S ASTRAL BOOKSHOP ( 郭怡美書店 )
(02) 2550-8291
No. 129, Sec. 1, Dihua St., Datong Dist., Taipei City ( 台北市大同區迪化街一段 129 號 ) 12pm-8pm (Sat/Sun 11am-10pm)
Along the same street section as Kuo’s is the award-winning Olympus Plaza Taipei , one of the brightest new stars on the Dadaocheng tourism stage. This is a renovation/retail flagshipstore project undertaken by Japan’s illustrious Olympus brand, best known for its elite photography equipment. Emphasis was placed on respecting local Dadaocheng/Taiwan culture by retaining the maximum amount of original wood, brick, and stone materials in the three-story shophouse building, which was constructed in 1919.
For the façade, large distressed-steel signage, terrazzo pavement along the arcade pedestrian sidewalk, and rich-stained wood for windows above and panel doors at ground level calmly complement the inherited yellow-tint wall brick and bright-green ceramic tile trim, accentuating the antique visage. For the newly crafted retail-display section within, dark wood was used to create a stylized arcade, in homage to the street arcades so intrinsic to the neighborhood’s nostalgia-laden personality.
The new venture’s “mission tripod” is to serve as a space for retail sales, an oasis of photography art, and a base for photography buff interchange. There is a retail showcase section, art gallery, photography studio, photography education space, and multifunction exhibit/meeting/special event hall.
OLYMPUS PLAZA TAIPEI
(02) 2553-8826
No. 142, Sec. 1, Dihua St., Datong Dist., Taipei City ( 台北市大同區迪化街一段 142 號 ) 12pm-8pm (Sat/Sun 11am-10pm)
Kuo's Astral Bookshop
Reading corner
Olympus Plaza Taipei offers more than just camera equipment
The utilization of cargo-container clusters in culturalcreative ventures has become a “thing” in Taiwan over the past 10~15 years. Around the country, you’ll see them used to house tourist-focused cafés, boutiques – even 7-Eleven and Starbucks outlets. The Dadaocheng Wharf Container Market is right by the Tamsui River, in the riverside park found at the west end of Minsheng West Road, immediately beyond the yawning dike-gate entrance at the road’s end.
The stylish young complex has become a big hit with domestic and international tourists: sightseeing yacht cruises launch from the wharf, the city’s welcoming riverside cycling path system rolls right by the market, and inexpensive highquality bike rentals are available both inside and immediately outside the dike gate, the market provides delicious food and drink along with much-loved alfresco seating in a covered picnic-table area and right atop the containers, and the nighttime cross-river views are especially sparkling.
The cuisine available, high in standard and most reasonable in expense, travels Taiwan and around the globe: coffee and tea drinks (including bubble tea, of course), draft beer and cocktails, edible Taiwanese quintessence in the form of hotpots and mango popsicles, Americana in the form of burgers, fries, and pizza, Korean in the form of crispy Korean fried chicken and dakgalbi, Thai, Japanese, and more.
ENGLISH AND CHINESE
Bangka | 艋舺
Dadaocheng | 大稻埕
Dadaocheng Cisheng Temple | 大稻埕慈聖宮
Dadaocheng Wharf Container Market | 大稻埕碼頭貨櫃市集
Dihua Street | 迪化街
First Theater | 第一劇場 Meinong | 美濃
xiaochi | 小吃
Xu Zai Pork Trotter Vermicelli | 許仔豬腳麵線
Ye Family Meat Congee | 葉家肉粥 Dadaocheng Wharf Container Market
Food and drink by the river
MAP
HOPPING THROUGH TAIPEI’S CRAFT BEER SCENE
HOPPING THROUGH TAIPEI’S CRAFT BEER SCENE
Sample Unique Domestic Brews and Choice of Foreign Ales in a Variety of Settings
Whether you want to zero in on a single Taiwanese brewery’s creations at their taproom or enjoy a selection of rotating brews at a craft beer specialty spot, Taipei has plenty of options to keep you hopping. Kick back with a refreshing draft or bottle, or grab a sampler flight to taste the variety.
Until recent decades, beer in Taiwan was typically consumed at banquets, stir-fry restaurants/beerhouses, or at home. But the practice of grabbing a happy-hour brew after work has been growing, especially with the explosion of the craft beer scene since around 2016. Ever since the state ended its monopoly on alcohol production in 2002, local microbreweries have been hard at work, often incorporating Taiwanese themes and ingredients.
TEXT HAN CHEUNG
PHOTOS POWEI CHEN
Please drink responsibly
Floating Taipei
As its name might suggest, this establishment in Taipei’s historic Dadaocheng area floats between the more commonly found bar formats in town. It’s a craft beer bar that offers an equally rich selection of specialty cocktails; its decor exudes higherend elegance at first glance, but the atmosphere is surprisingly casual and cozy, with baseball paraphernalia and large video screens also placing it in sports bar territory. The food menu contains classic Taiwanese/international bar snacks, but also enough specialty dishes that it could qualify as a bistro.
Co-founder Leo Wu formerly worked as a salesperson for an alcoholic-beverage importer. While visiting bars in Taipei for the job, he noticed that few establishments provided both quality craft beer and creative cocktails. He wanted to create a space that bridged this gap so customers who didn’t enjoy beer could still find something they wanted to drink.
The spacious interior of the bar is visible through the stylish façade’s large display window, beckoning thirsty patrons as night falls. The Dadaocheng area was once Taipei’s most prosperous but fell into decline for many decades before its revival during the early 2010s as a cultural hotspot. Over just the past
six or seven years, Dadaocheng went from being almost deserted at night to becoming a gathering spot with all sorts of specialty bars that pay homage to the area’s heritage.
Craft beer is still the main draw at Floating Taipei, with 18 ever-changing foreign and domestic selections on tap and around 100 brands available in cans and bottles. Wu says they started with mostly imported beers, but with the postpandemic influx of foreign tourists to this charming neighborhood, they’ve added several Taiwanese brews as many visitors are curious about the local craft beer scene.
In addition to the mainstays of the joint, Floating Light’s Happy Yuzu Ale and UglyHalf’s Hoppy Cider, both local brews, the draft roster at the time of a recent Travel in Taiwan visit featured many offerings with intriguing ingredients – gose with starfruit and roselle varieties, a chai latte stout from Japan, an Australian smoothie sour with mango, strawberry, and guava, and a chili pickle sour from New Zealand. Several IPAs from the US were also available. If such brews perhaps do not tickle your fancy, have a peek in the three fridges filled up with choices that are also available for takeaway.
The cocktail menu is divided into classics and signature creations, several of which feature Taiwanese flavors. Legacy of Atayal (the Atayal are one of Taiwan’s 16 officially recognized indigenous groups), for example, is concocted with rum, Earl Grey, green apple, and makauy –a mountain peppercorn widely used in indigenous cuisine. Beautiful Mistakes contains whiskey, oolong tea, and plum, a play on the word “oolong,” the Chinese characters for the term also meaning mix-up or misunderstanding.
Patrons can order finger foods such as nachos and fries to pair with the drinks, but for those who are hungrier, there are also spicy clams, crispy intestines, Thaistyle squid, Hakka-style salted pork, and a “silk thread roll,” a classic fried soft bun drizzled with condensed milk and peanut powder.
Sports events are on occasion shown on the aforementioned screens, but they seem to exist more for the atmosphere, showing such images as colorful birds or a virtual “night walk” video through Tokyo. The place stays open until 2:30am on Saturday, which is relatively late in Taiwan for bars.
FLOATING TAIPEI ( 漂浮台北 ) (02) 2550-0953
No. 340, Nanjing W. Rd., Da'an District, Taipei City ( 台北市大同區南京西路 340 號 ) 6pm~1:30am (until 2:30am on Sat; until 12am on Sun) www.facebook.com/floatingtp
MMO Beer
This funky, open-seating space featuring iridescent metal walls, beige swimming pool tiles, and sauna benches offers a whimsical yet intimate space on a block in Taipei’s trendy East District dotted with hip restaurants and cafés. It’s a chill spot to grab one of their homemade beers for a before or after-dinner drink, and there’s an enclosed room for those who want further respite from the city’s bustle. Owner Kevin Chu emphasizes the bar’s walk-in atmosphere, with patrons free to sit or stand anywhere without a designated table.
MMO has been in craft beer production for about two years. Chu and MMO’s brewmaster both trained in the US after seeing a niche in the local market, and as newcomers to the industry he says they’re less bound by established tastes and can brew more freely and expressively. About half of the menu consists of heavier flavors aimed at craft beer connoisseurs, such as their signature roasted, darkchocolatey Black IPA made with six types of hops. Another favorite is the slightly sour, smoky Lichtenhainer – with bacon undertones – that’s low on bitterness. The other half features refreshing fruity brews that have more mass appeal, such as the crisp Passionfruit Gose in which 100% fruit juice is used, and the Cardamom Wheat featuring hints of citrus and mango.
MMO offers a single rotating non-alcoholic concoction; at the time of our visit, it was the roselle tea cold-brewed with Pacific Crest and Crystal hops. MMO also offers a variety of “comfort nibbles,” including its specially seasoned, deepfried “kari kari” pasta, beef pie, and mini Margherita pizza.
Read from the side when tipsy, “MMO” resembles “330,” which is the bar’s address plate number as well as the standard volume of a beer bottle. The letters are arranged into different emojis on the bar/brewery’s logo to represent different flavors and post-imbibing moods.
MMO BEER (02) 2776 6360
No. 330, Guangfu S. Rd., Daan District, Taipei City ( 台北市大安區光復南路 330 號 ) 4pm~12am www.facebook.com/mmocraftbeer
Learn Bar
If you’re having trouble deciding which of the 20 local draft beers to try, let the large XY graph above the bar here, with alcohol volume (ABV) and bitterness (IBU) as the variables, provide a starting point. There’s also a similar chart for the can and bottle selections.
Located close to the tourist hotspot Yongkang Street (go grab a drink while you most likely wait for your table at the famous Din Tai Fung dumpling restaurant), Learn Bar is Taiwanese through and through, from the interior decor to the beverage and food selections. Featuring retro-style ceramic tile floors, wooden tables, and traditional window grille decorations, the brightly lit space has a hint of the homey cafés found in almost any historic district around the island. It does open comparatively early at 3pm, but as night falls the lively atmosphere and screens showing sports matches reassure visitors that this is a drinking spot.
A map of Taiwan on the wall shows agricultural products found across the island that can be used as brewing ingredients, including Taichung’s wheat and Yilan’s winter melon, Changhua’s jasmine flower, Hualien’s white corn, Nantou’s smoked plum and coffee beans, and Taitung’s Ailanthus prickly ash. These ingredients may be found in the rotating selection of beers, all of which are brewed in Taiwan, and in the food.
The above-mentioned graph also includes customer favorites divided according to gender: at the time of our visit, the top brew for guys was the dry and aromatic Craft Never Die 18 Citra New England IPA by Taiwan Head Brewers, while gals favored the smooth, sweet-and-sour Jade Luminous Kumquat Beer by North Taiwan Brewery.
The food includes both Taiwanese and Americanstyle fried morsels, grilled sausages, grilled water bamboo, boneless smoked chicken feet, and popcorn on the cob. Non-alcoholic beverages include malt drinks and homemade smoked plum juice.
LEARN BAR ( 學吧 ) (02) 2396-6818
1F, No. 253, Sec. 2, Xinyi Rd., Zhongzheng District, Taipei City ( 台北市中正區信義路二段 253 號 1 樓 ) 3pm~11pm (until 12am on Fri. and Sat.) www.facebook.com/learnbartw
Zhangmen Brewery
This small, industrial-chic bar off Yongkang Street is not just any hole in the wall. Opened in 2015, it was the first tasting room for Zhangmen Brewery, now a stalwart of Taiwan’s craft beer scene. Beer line pipes run along the brick walls, adding to the raw decor style.
Founded by three engineers in 2014, the brewery today runs 11 bars and restaurants across Taiwan and in Hong Kong. “Zhangmen” refers to the leader of a martial arts school in wuxia novels and movies, and the founders hoped to foster a scene where Taiwan’s top breweries could, like a scene in The Legend of the Condor Heroes, show off their diverse skills in friendly but fierce competition.
The founders’ original intention was simply to design an automatic home-brewing machine, but things snowballed as they applied their scientific spirit to making their own craft beer. In 2016, they won their first gold medal in competition, at the Australian International Beer Awards – for Professor X, a smooth but slightly burnt imperial stout with deep-roasted coffee, chocolate, and caramel tones.
This beer remains a popular item at the Yongkang Branch taproom, and the staff recommends comparing it with other dark brews such as the Irish Stout and Black Citrus IPA, which also claimed gold at the Australian awards in 2021.
Another staff pick is the Mountain Mist, a fruity hazy IPA with distinct passion fruit and lychee aromas. The teainfused beers are also popular, especially the Red Oolong Tea Beer, which uses specialty leaves from Taitung’s Luye Township. The brewing process reduces the bitterness of the leaves while releasing their ripe-fruit aroma. The Spice Beer with green and red peppercorns is also a standout. For those who are hungry, the bar also has a substantial food menu with fried goodies, wings, Taiwanese braised items, and pizza.
No. 10, Lane 4, Yongkang St., Da'an District, Taipei City ( 台北市大安區永康街 4 巷 10 號 )
Mon-Thu 4pm~12am; Fri 4pm~1am; Sat 2pm~1am; Sun 2pm~12am www.zhangmen.co www.facebook.com/zhangmenbrewery
Taihu Brewing
This outdoor, standing-only taproom in the heart of the ritzy Xinyi Commercial District has been a local fixture since late 2015 and remains a rarity for its setting in hot and humid Taiwan. Situated at ground level between two high-rise malls, the high wooden tables are packed even on weekday nights.
Launched in 2014, Taihu initially aimed to introduce through its taprooms a selection of local and imported brews to a drinking scene that had barely heard of the term “craft beer.” A first taproom called Landmark struggled at first, but business soon picked up enough that management opened the second spot in Xinyi. As Taihu began making its own libations in 2016, Landmark Xinyi now mainly features inhouse products with a few foreign brews.
Taihu means “Taiwan Tiger” in Chinese, symbolizing the Taiwanese spirit of pushing forward courageously. The logo features a tiger image inspired by the historic, anti-colonialist Republic of Formosa flag, surrounded by nine hops (“nine” is a homophone for “alcohol” in Chinese), inside a bottle gourd traditionally used to store alcohol.
The citrusy Taihu IPA is a must-try, as it was named the World’s Best American Style IPA at the 2023 World Beer Awards. The tasting notes state: “Pale gold with aromas of freshly cut grass, lemons, and spice. Light-bodied and crisp with notes of orange blossom, grape, white peach, and freshness. Delicious lingering finish.” The bestsellers at the time of our visit were the light and crisp Draft High Lager, the strong, citrusy Long Island Iced Beer, and the Moonlight Yuzu fruit beer, the latter two part of the brewery’s 9.99% alcohol series that’s also found in most convenience stores.
The bar also offers cocktails, margarita slushies, wines, hard liquor, and a variety of non-alcoholic specialties. A wide selection of pizzas is also available, with the Iberico chorizo being the most popular.
1F, No. 68, Sec. 5, Zhongxiao E. Rd., Xinyi District, Taipei City ( 台北市信義區忠孝東路五段 68 號 1 樓 ) Mon-Thu 5pm~11:30am; Fri and Sat 3pm~1:30am; Sun 3pm~11:30am www.taihubrewing.com (Chinese) www.facebook.com/cysxinyi
ENGLISH AND CHINESE
Ailanthus prickly ash | 刺蔥
Dadaocheng | 大稻埕 East District | 東區
Luye Township | 鹿野鄉 makauy | 馬告
Xinyi Commercial District | 信義商圈 Yongkang Street | 永康街
Hot Sauces Found Around Taiwan
TEXT & PHOTOS VISION
Taiwanese cuisine is renowned for its diverse flavors and meticulous attention to preparation detail. Locals have a deep understanding of how to balance spice and flavor using a variety of sauces and pastes. While many tourists may be familiar with the more common condiments, there are countless regional specialty products, such as chili sauces, that are created in limited quantities and can be challenging to find outside of their specific areas. Let’s explore some of these unique condiments.
In a typical local restaurant, for example a dumpling restaurant, you’ll likely find a small basket of condiments on your table. This often includes staples like soy sauce, vinegar, and chili sauce. For those seeking more variety, a dedicated “sauce area” might offer an even wider selection. You might find soy sauce paste (a thicker version of soy sauce), doubanjiang (a fermented-bean paste with a savory and slightly spicy flavor), and shacha sauce (a savory sauce made from
soybean oil, peanuts, shrimp, and garlic).
For chili sauces, Taiwan offers a diverse range of local brands. From Keelung City in the north to Pingtung County in the south, connoisseurs swear by certain brands believed to complement regional delicacies perfectly. These sauces often come in small, 360ml bottles with similar designs. Many lack English in the labeling, making it slightly challenging for foreign visitors to differentiate between brands.
Dong Quan Chili Sauce and Popcorn
ENGLISH AND CHINESE
Chenghuang Temple | 城隍廟
Dafang Peanut Chili Sauce | 大芳花生辣醬
Dong Quan Chili Sauce | 東泉辣椒醬
doubanjiang | 豆瓣醬
Jin Song Chili Sauce | 金松辣椒醬
Jipiao Chili Sauce | 雞標辣椒醬
Miaokou Night Market | 廟口夜市
shacha sauce | 沙茶醬
Shiquan Chili Sauce | 十全辣椒醬
Shuangjipai Chili Sauce | 雙雞牌辣椒醬
Wanjin Chili Sauce | 丸進辣椒醬
Yuanmei Chili Sauce | 源美辣椒醬
Starting in the north, when visiting the port city of Keelung, look for the Wanjin Chili Sauce. The logo prominently shows the character “ 進 ” ( jin) within a circle. Made since Taiwan’s Japanese colonial era and influenced by Japanese recipes, the sauce has a sweet and salty taste. It is suitable for dishes you might try in the city’s famous Miaokou Night Market, such as tianfuluo (Taiwanese tempura).
A visit to Hsinchu City on the northwest coast wouldn’t be complete without exploring the bustling food stalls surrounding its Chenghuang (City God) Temple. When indulging in local delicacies such as rice noodles with meatballs, be sure to elevate the flavor with the city’s renowned Shiquan Chili Sauce
Moving further south to central Taiwan’s Taichung City, local gourmands favor Dong Quan Chili Sauce, but in the city’s Fengyuan, Qingshui, and Tanzi districts there is a strong case to be made for Yuanmei Chili Sauce as being the most popular. The love for Dong Quan Chili Sauce often baffles outsiders because the sauce lacks spiciness. Some locals playfully suggest that the sauce’s allure lies not in its taste, but in its uncanny ability to elevate any dish, even those that might otherwise be flavorless. Compared to Dong Quan, Yuanmei Chili Sauce has a more brownish hue and leans towards a sweeter flavor profile.
As a major peanut producer, it’s no wonder Yunlin County has a prominent chili sauce made with peanuts. Crafted from high-quality small chili peppers and locally sourced Beigang Township peanuts, the hot and salty Dafang Peanut Chili Sauce is primarily distributed south of the Zhuoshui River, making it less common in northern regions. It’s a versatile condiment, excelling as a dipping sauce or rice accompaniment, but also finding its place in various stir-fries.
A telltale sign of having arrived in the south’s Chiayi County or Tainan City is the presence on your table of chili sauce bottles featuring a chicken or two. Chiayi is renowned for a hot-snack dish called turkey rice, and unsurprisingly its Jipiao ("Chicken Label") Chili Sauce is the go-to choice for adding a spicy kick to the dish. Carefully crafted from chili peppers, glutinous rice, sugar, and salt, this sauce offers a unique aroma and a smooth texture. In Tainan, it’s the Shuangjipai ("Double Chicken Label") Chili Sauce that takes center stage. Like its Chiayi counterpart, this sauce has a mellow, rich, and spicy taste, making it ideal for enhancing the lightly sweet flavors of southern Taiwanese snack foods. The south, as a sugarcane producer, has long had a noted sweet tooth.
Finally, in the far south’s Pingtung County, locals are passionate about adding Jin Song Chili Sauce to their meals, from noodle soup to chicken rice and even the famed Wanluan pork trotters. The sauce is often praised for its ability to enhance any dish with a more complex flavor profile.
Wanjin Chili Sauce (left), Dafang Peanut Chili Sauce (right)
Jipiao Chili Sauce
Shacha sauce
TAIWANESE REIMAGINED AESTHETICS
Award-Winning Designer Johnny Chiu Inspires with Refreshing Ideas
Vintage iron grilles weaving intricate patterns across windows. Plants sprouting on sills and outer walls. Dense urban cores, convenience stores, five-story walk-ups, industrial sprawl, jungle-clad hills. These are some of the elements of the Taiwanese aesthetic that are interpreted by local designers in their work, both in Taiwan and on the world stage. Johnny Chiu, founder of JC. Architecture and Design, is one such talent. He recently sat down with Travel in Taiwan to discuss not just today’s Taiwanese design, but also its history, identity, and future.
Chiu was born in Taiwan and spent his early years here, but his design journey began overseas. He lived and worked in New Zealand, Australia, the U.S., Sweden, and Japan, studying architecture and design first at Columbia University in New York and later at the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology (RMIT). Although an illness brought him back to Taiwan, there were other factors that influenced his choice to remain in his country of birth. Seeking a challenge to stave off depression during the final phase of his PhD, he took on the design of the Happier Café in 2015. This temporary café and art installation was housed in the former national Air Force Command Headquarters in Taipei, since 2018 used by the Taiwan Contemporary Culture Lab (C-Lab; clab.org.tw).
“Instead of looking for on-theshelf products like the West would normally do, I began to search into the production history (and) manufacturing capacity of Taiwan,” he said, referencing Taiwan’s long history with Original Equipment Manufacturing (OEM). “If you go into the factories, if you go to the source – even before they roll out these things, before they are pressed, painted, baked, or whatnot – that original thing (is what) we have a real abundance of.”
He used these concepts of raw materiality, affordability, and abundance when designing the Happier Café, which encompassed 1,300 rolls of paper spread across walls, ceilings, and floors. For six months, visitors could draw and write anywhere within the space to express their joy. The paper was then
Johnny Chiu, founder of JC. Architecture
TEXT JENNA LYNN CODY PHOTOS JC. ARCHITECTURE AND DESIGN
rolled up into a “time capsule of happiness” for future exhibitions.JC. Architecture and Design was founded by Chiu in 2010. Since then, the company has worked on all manner of projects, including the National Taipei University Library, with a series of bridges incorporated between buildings where students can interact. This was followed by the shop at the Taipei Fine Arts Museum (TFAM; www.tfam.museum), drawing on the metabolism movement from 1960s~1970s Japan to build a modular storefront that is just as much an art piece as a place of commerce.
Other elements in Taiwan’s design language that inspire Chiu include temporality, efficiency, and speed. These ideas are used to cultivate more abstract design principles that inform his projects. He attributes common architectural features in Taiwan such as the fivestory apartment walk-ups, iron window grilles, and use of cheaper or less durable
materials to a sense of “temporariness” which was endemic to Martial Law-era construction.
Residents “put those (window) cages up, then just stuff them with boxes,” Chiu observed. “Suddenly you have this house without any light. It’s kind of sad. But society is changing. If you go to the south, you can see a lot of window-grille masterpieces. Some designers are taking that as design inspiration.”
Anyone who has spent time in Taiwan is familiar with local expectations of, say, a convenience store on every corner. Chiu says this extends to local business culture as a whole. “The client wants something very fast from us,” he noted. “At the same time, that gives us many opportunities. A colleague of mine from Britain will have two projects a year, we have 30…but we can experiment a lot more, speed it up, (engage in some) trial and error…(be) more economical.”
“The client wants something very fast from us. At the same time, that gives us many opportunities”
One project inspired by these ideas of speed and economy was the Bloom Chair, which won a Golden Pin design award in 2022. Chiu’s team used leather from Kobe beef cattle, the thinness of which is not ideal for traditional furniture. They found that this also renders the leather stretchier and more fibrous. The chair’s lightweight honeycomb design was inspired by the red-paper pineapple lanterns common across Taiwan.
Not Just Library
Bloom Chair
Transport design has become another cornerstone of Chiu’s portfolio, including a ferry plying the route between the city of Kaohsiung and the Penghu Islands, a Taipei Metro car, and a Taiwan Railway tourist train, all of which have brought both challenges and successes. The main challenge with the ferry design was making a six-hour boat ride competitive with a 40-minute flight. “So if the boat doesn’t compete on speed, maybe we can slow down and enjoy (the journey),” Chiu said. “What kind of enjoyment? The slow life of Penghu…the tidal slowness, walking by the sea, paddling, snorkeling. This turns into materiality and color.”
“Taiwan is already very beautiful,” Chiu noted. “So we didn’t have to ‘design’ everything, just lift up cabins and ceilings to allow the beauty to come in.”
For the metro car, Chiu looked at the industrial sectors along the metro system’s Circular Line to create an artistic showcase, complete with “credits” at different stations for those involved. “These (areas) have the best of Taiwan,” he said. “These masters make the bolts and furniture, they are the best carpenters, world champions in their own right. We wanted to bring their craftsmanship to this line to showcase their talents. So (it was) a collaborative community process. A disadvantaged women’s association helped us weave (the textiles). ‘Mosquito nets’ diffuse the light, rattan masters worked on the poles.”
Internationally, Chiu’s most famous design is likely Taiwan Railway’s “Future Express” tourist train, a repurposed sevencarriage “moving kitchen” that rides between Taipei and the city of Taitung. The design is minimalist, with curving lines and a neutral black, white, and beige Art Deco-inspired palette that
evokes both the past and the future. Oversized windows direct attention to one of Taiwan’s greatest assets: its natural beauty.
“Taiwan is already very beautiful. We didn’t have to ‘design’ everything, just lift up cabins and ceilings to allow the beauty to come in.”
As with the Future Express, Chiu’s favorite projects relate to tourism. These include the design library Not Just Library and restaurant concept Island No. 133, both located in Taipei’s Songshan Cultural and Creative Park (www.songshanculturalpark. org). The former is housed in what was once a bathhouse; the latter in an old machine repair plant.
“The news (about Taiwan) is always about missiles, ships –there’s a missed opportunity here. It’s important for us designers to unpack these historical and cultural places, to showcase to the world our rich cultural history, future, and identity,” he said. “That would be a beautiful thing.”
ENGLISH AND CHINESE Future Express | 鳴日號 Happier Café | 更快樂實驗所 Johnny Chiu | 邱柏文
National Taipei University Library | 國立臺北大學圖書館 Not Just Library | 不只是圖書館 Songshan Cultural and Creative Park | 松山文創園區 Taipei Fine Arts Museum | 臺北市立美術館 Taiwan Contemporary Culture Lab | 臺灣當代文化試驗場
Penghu ferry
Future Express
Island No. 133
HOT! STAY / EAT / BUY
Taipei City
The Grand Hotel
圓山大飯店
The Grand Hotel offers guests the most relaxing and luxurious vacation experience. From the exclusive Horizon Suites, you can enjoy breathtaking views of Taipei. Or you can unwind in one of our Corner Suites, which also offer superb vistas. Savor a presidential-level state banquet dinner in the evening, followed by an exquisite breakfast at the Grand Garden Restaurant. Then, embark on a cultural exploration tour of the East Secret Passage. During your stay, you can take advantage of our 2nd-floor gym and the outdoor pool. Savor delectable dining options, explore the hotel’s rich history, and enjoy a peaceful and luxurious stay at The Grand Hotel .
Promotion Period: Valid from today until December 30 (for weekday stays, Monday to Thursday)
Package Price: Horizon Suite NT$13,000+10%, Corner Suite NT$17,000+10%
Package Includes:
Two complimentary breakfasts at the Grand Garden Restaurant per room.
Two complimentary State Banquet meals per room (available at Golden Dragon Restaurant, Yuan Yuan Restaurant, and Grand Steak House, each valued at NT$2,500).
Two complimentary East Secret Passage cultural guided tour tickets for each room (tour time: 10:30am on the day after check-in).
Two complimentary The Grand Hotel shawls per room.
Package webpage: https://reurl.cc/oyXMAQ
Taichung City FOOD
Wufeng Lin Family Garden
霧峰林家宮保第園區
To provide international visitors with an immersive experience of our historical site, the Wufeng Lin Family Garden has introduced dessert sets. After a guided tour, visitors can sit down to savor a cup of tea and enjoy a variety of pastries. The set for two is beautifully presented as a nine-compartment tray, showcasing the best of local specialties. Each set features mochi, crispy Wufeng fragrant rice crust, mung bean cake, osmanthus cake, dried fruits, and a pot of black tea. The onsite gift shop also offers a variety of unique lifestyle products inspired by the architectural features of the family garden complex. One example is the "Abundant Wealth – Dahuating" bookmark, a delightful miniature replica of the historic theater stage, capturing the essence of the Wufeng Lin Family Garden.
No. 62, Minsheng Rd., Wufeng District, Taichung City ( 臺中市霧峰區民生路62號)
Tel: (04) 2331-7985 www.wufenglins.com.tw
Taichung City FOOD
Wu-Feng Farmer’s Association Distillery
霧峰農會酒莊
The Wu-Feng Farmers' Association Distillery is housed in a renovated building that once was the Wanfeng Granary. Inside, you’ll find a fragrant-rice storage area, a sake cellar (distillery area), a granary, and a general store. The facility perfectly blends Taiwan's fragrant rice culture with the flavor of sake while preserving precious local rural cultural assets, like an old rice milling machine. Visitors can enjoy a unique experience that includes agricultural fun, cultural immersion, educational insights, and sophisticated wine tasting. Combining winemaking with agritourism, the distillery offers a variety of seasonal rural experiences. In the summer, you can take part in plum wine-making workshops, and in the fall, you can join outdoor wine and dine events. Also, sign up for a wine-tasting experience at the Chu Wu Academy located behind the distillery. Not only will you get a guided tour of the sake-brewing process, but you'll also have the opportunity to savor six different sakes from the distillery’s Dai Ginjo and Chu Wu series.
No. 345, Zhongzheng Rd., Wufeng District, Taichung City ( 臺中市霧峰區中正路345號)
Tel: (02) 2339-9191 www.twwfsake.com
UNIVERSITY
Taipei
National Taiwan Normal University 國立臺灣師範大學
1.Founded in 1922; a well-known school for secondaryschool teachers and a comprehensive university
2.Placed 79th in Asia and 431st worldwide in the QS World University Rankings 2024
3.Home of the Mandarin Training Center, which is well known domestically and abroad
Round: Nov. 1-Dec. 30, 2024
No. 162, Section 1, Heping E. Rd., Da-An Dist., Taipei City 106308, Taiwan
Tel: 02-7749-1111
www.ntnu.edu.tw
Farglory Hualien
遠雄悅來大飯店
The Farglory Hualien Hotel is a Victorian-style building close to the Pacific Ocean. Perched 220 meters above sea level the hotel is situated at the northern end of the Coastal Mountain Range, the ten-hectare property boasting stunning mountain and sea views. Following a NT$400million renovation completed in July 2024, the hotel is now focused on providing unforgettable experiences for families of all ages. After the makeover, it has evolved into a stylish and luxurious adventure destination that embodies contemporary elegance. Featuring a diverse selection of Chinese, Western, and Japanese cuisine, and an array of recreational activities for the whole family, the luxurious resort has been recognized worldwide by winning the 2024 World Travel Awards for Asia's Leading Family Resort and the 2024 Muse Design Awards Platinum Award.
No. 18, Shanling, Shoufeng Township, Yanliao Village, Hualien County ( 花蓮縣壽豐鄉鹽寮村山嶺18號)
Tel: (03) 812-3999
www.farglory-hotel.com.tw
Hotel Éclat Taipei
台北怡亨酒店
Setting the benchmark in terms of style and inspiration, staying at Hotel Éclat Taipei is no ordinary experience. Situated in the fashionable district of Da'an, this charismatic boutique hotel with its avant-garde design, attentive service and astounding modern art collection is nothing short of leading-edge.
No.370, Sec. 1, Dunhua S. Rd., Da'an District, Taipei City 106, Taiwan ( 台北市大安區敦化南路一段370號) Tel: (02) 2784-8888 Fax: (02) 2784-7888 Reservation: (02) 2784-8888 https://www.eclathotels.com/taipei
Hualien County STAY
Taipei City STAY
3
International Students Recruitment
79th in Asian University Rankings
431st in World Rankings (QS World University Rankings 2024)
3rd in International Outlook among Taiwanese universities (Times Higher Education 2024)
7th in Education and Educational Research (Best Global Universities 2024)
Top 38 in Education (Times Higher Education 2024)
420+ partner institutions around the world
key cultivation university in the Bilingual Education Program in Taiwan
The world-renowned Mandarin Training Center; online Mandarin courses offered (MTC Online)
1. Taiwan Scholarship (please contact the nearest diplomatic missions in your home countries) 2. Full tuition waiver (Bachelor’s program: 1 year; Master’s program: 2 years; doctoral program: 3 years) Scholarships Application Information, YouTube, and Instagram
• For the specific application schedule, please refer to the admission prospectus of the year.
• Online application only. Please refer to International Students Application website for details: https://bds.oia.ntnu.edu.tw/bds/apply
