31 minute read
A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE
Text Charene Labuschagne Photographs Le Roux van Schalkwyk
Crisp winter air hangs over the horizon, creating a soft white filter for every tree and hill. Looking down, you see a veil of yellow and orange mopane leaves crushing softly under your feet. In a single file line, you tread lightly, one foot in front of the other, so as to not disturb the life that surrounds you, or the black rhino spotted at the lodge’s subtly lit waterhole the previous night.
The bushveld on this 30,000-hectare private game reserve bordering Etosha is a thrilling adventure. Being on foot in this environment is indescribable. Once you have soaked up the incredible animal sightings from one of Ongava’s game viewers, peeped through the viewing window at the hide, and even seen a rock hyrax scurry over the deck, it is time to take the next step: to lace up your walking shoes and venture into the wilderness, ushered by a trained and armed guide.
There is so much magic when you look closer, longer and more intentionally. It is in these moments that you spot an exceptionally camouflaged chameleon perched dead still on a tree trunk, or learn that rhinos use scratching posts conveniently located on the highway of animal crossings. When you stay a little longer and begin to decipher the tracks and markings, an elephant bath is revealed, and their sheer size and strength become overwhelmingly obvious at the sight of trees shredded to shards of bark. If you look a little more closely at the prevalent mopane leaves, you begin to notice the crystal-like dots formed by
tiny insects. The Oshiwambo people discovered it as a sweet treat. Once you are made aware of their existence, these crystals appear everywhere like dew drops on the vegetation.
Without the hum of a car engine and the clicking of camera shutters, you truly get to listen to nature. Ongava’s walking safari is a quintessential bushveld experience, bringing you closer to the intricate details so often overlooked, immersing you deeper into the conservation efforts of the reserve, and allowing you to trek this vast terrain in much the same way as the original, rugged explorers did.
Safety is essential when traversing the territory of big cats and even larger mammals. Ongava’s roster of dedicated and enthusiastic guides are trained in emergency procedures, should a wild animal become distressed or uncomfortable with visitors. For this reason, the walking safari is better suited to smaller groups. This in turn allows you to let your curiosity blossom and ask your guide any and all questions about the area, its fauna and flora.
The guides appointed at Ongava have extensive experience on the reserve, and recently sharpened up their knowledge under the expert guidance of Cameron Pearce. As the managing and chief instructor of Ongava’s guide training and development, Cameron engaged the resident guides in daily walks. Training from such a highly acclaimed guide, recently named the Safari Guide of the Year, elevates the entire walking safari experience for both guides and guests.
Come tread lightly and listen to nature at Ongava Game Reserve. TNN
Turning travel into impact:
Celebrating 10 years of TOSCO
Text Lara Potma
It is October 2011. Seven tour operators gather far up north on the Skeleton Coast, at Dr Philip Stander’s station in Möwe Bay, to discuss the recent lion poisoning in the Puros Conservancy in the Kunene Region. Félix Vallat, a tour guide at that time and inspired by Garth Owen-Smith and Dr Stander, has already had conversations with these companies about the need for tourism to support conservation, and in particular assist communities who live with wildlife, if its own long-term viability is to be ensured.
The uproar in the Namibian tourism industry as a result of the poisoning incident was a direct reason for stakeholders to open the dialogue. The consensus towards the end of the meeting was overwhelming: an organisation was needed to strengthen the relationship of the tourism industry with communities and conservation organisations. That same year, Félix founded the Tourism Supporting Conservation Trust which has become known as TOSCO.
This year, the TOSCO team celebrates its 10th anniversary by reflecting on what has been achieved thus far and focusing on how to continue into the future.
Bridging the gap between tourism and conservation
Félix’s aspiration with TOSCO was to create a platform that opened communication between conservation NGOs, the government, the local communities and the tourism industry. He also wanted to raise more awareness and promote education within the tourism industry about conservation matters. In the first year alone, 18 tourism companies joined TOSCO as paying members, reaching a peak of 42 members in the following years. With tourism funding it became possible to pay three Puros community members – Bertus, Kootie and Colin – to monitor lion movements and mitigate human-lion conflict. They were among the first lion rangers employed in Namibia.
Ultimate Safaris has been a TOSCO member from the very beginning. The company’s co-founder and managing director, Tristan Cowley, explains: “We believe in meaningful conservation partnerships, knowing that the more collaboration there is, the better for conservation. As a true conservation travel company, our partnership with TOSCO is just one of those meaningful partnerships that drive conservation for a greater good.” Elise van der Meij, director of Explore Namibia, says, “We all benefit from this beautiful country that sells itself, with its pristine nature, wildlife and ever-changing landscapes. It is worth protecting. Of course, we can contribute with the ‘normal’ things, like not littering, being aware of our actions and guiding our guests to do the same. However, within 10 years TOSCO has built a network and tutored ambassadors in a way which on an individual basis we would never have been able to do. So, we are also very happy that TOSCO takes on the responsibility and stands in for us when it comes to conservation and awareness.”
With no budget for operating expenses, TOSCO initially relied on a team of tourism professionals devoting their free time to their passion for conserving the natural environment. The conservation trust now supports external projects managed by various organisations and also implements its own projects that fill critical gaps in the absence of existing projects to fill such gaps. All TOSCO projects have so far been undertaken within four main programmes: Living with Wildlife, Awareness, Research and Clean Travel. The Living with Wildlife Programme supported several projects related to human-wildlife conflict in 10 conservancies and developed a Conservation Contribution scheme, which enables tour operators to pay a voluntary fee for their tourism activities on communal land. The Clean Travel Programme started in 2017 with a carbon offset scheme in collaboration with the Eloolo Permaculture Initiative, whereby tourism businesses offset their greenhouse gas emissions by supporting the planting and maintenance of trees at selected schools. As part of the Awareness Programme, TOSCO organised conservationrelated workshops, established responsible travel guidelines and placed informative signboards in environmentally sensitive areas. Through the Research Programme, TOSCO supported researchers who focus on the long-term survival of threatened and endangered wildlife species, as well as annual game counts organised by conservancies.
TOSCO’s contribution to conservation
More than N$6 million have been collected and disbursed through TOSCO over the past ten years. The funds were mostly raised from the tourism industry through memberships, thus linking travel with a direct impact on conservation. When asking partners what they value about TOSCO, many of them mentioned the complementary support to other organisations, flexible and responsive methods, and few bureaucratic barriers.
OPPOSITE: Namibia Horse Safaris is one of the companies that pays a conservation contribution fee for traveling over communal land | One of the first projects that TOSCO supported placed signboards along the Skeleton Coast to avoid selfdrivers from going into the areas of the Skeleton Coast National Park, Hoanib and Hoarusib riverbeds illegaly | TOSCO collaborates with other NGOs, for example with EHRA in organising training for game guards on elephants for them to assist their communities in Human-Elephant Conflict mitigation
As Uakendisa Muzuma, Large Carnivore Coordinator at the Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism, explained, “What makes TOSCO unique is the way it is, it is not fighting for resources on the ground, it is contributing to the existing structures.” And Russell Vinjevold, Integrated Rural Development and Nature Conservation’s (IRDNC) Resource Monitor, said, “Among TOSCO’s main strengths and achievements is the flexibility and the ability to react to things fast. In other words, a lack of bureaucracy, or streamlined systems and processes. I can call TOSCO for a battery or a tyre for a car, and within a day TOSCO will come back and say, yes we can help you, or no we can’t. But you get an answer within a day.”
Most importantly, communities at grassroots level have received tangible benefits. “The community of De Riet (in the Torra Conservancy) sees TOSCO as a helping hand,” says Lorens Adams, Senior Councillor of the Riemvasmakers Traditional Authority. He explains, “TOSCO has helped us in many ways over the years: building an information centre that encourages tourists to visit De Riet for elephant tracking excursions, building a predator-proof kraal to protect our livestock from lions, installing solarpowered lights, and this year TOSCO bought us a new solar water pump, which has helped with our biggest problem: access to water. All of this has allowed the community to make a better life for ourselves.”
Surviving the COVID-19 tourism shutdown
The COVID-19 pandemic had a massive impact on the tourism industry. It also resulted in a significant decline in tourism members joining TOSCO. However, it was kept afloat thanks to the major support of the Namibian Chamber of Environment and individual donors, and determined to continue supporting conservation throughout the crisis, it adapted by building stronger partnerships with the government and with NGOs.
In early 2020, TOSCO started collaborating with World Wildlife Fund Namibia to assist with the Wildlife Credits Namibia project. Wildlife Credits creates a platform for businesses to pay for conservation “products”: securing wildlife habitats and corridors, or conserving iconic species that inhabit these landscapes. Payments are used to reward communities, as the wildlife stewards, for positive conservation outcomes that are independently verified using tourist sightings or technology such as camera traps. This provides businesses with clear returns on their investment and data for their environmental, social and governance reporting, which is an increasingly important requirement within the corporate sector. TOSCO’s role is to market Wildlife Credits products to the tourism value and supply chains by explaining how the system works and describing the the tourism industry’s longterm benefits from supporting conservation outcomes.
Building on its first project, TOSCO has become part of the team that administers the Lion Ranger Programme, partnering with conservancies, the Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism (MEFT), and several NGOs. The programme is centred on community-based natural resource management (CBNRM) principles and aims for the adaptive, sustainable management of lions in northwestern Namibia, with particular emphasis on human-lion conflict challenges.
Planning the next TOSCO decade
The disruptions in tourism due to the pandemic gave the Trust time to reflect on the past ten years and to prepare for
The TOSCO Team
sustainable growth and more impact during the next decade. As a result of these reflections, TOSCO has been restructured. Félix Vallat has stepped aside as director and taken up the position of Chairperson of the Board. As the new director of operations, I, Lara Potma, will be striving to increase TOSCO’s paid staff capacity as part of our overall transformation strategy, rather than relying mainly on volunteers.
On the funding side, we will endeavour to grow the number of TOSCO members by promoting a better understanding among tourism stakeholders of what responsible tourism entails and by extending our platform to include the whole tourism value chain. Operationally, we want to extend our reach beyond the Kunene Region to include other important tourism destinations in Namibia and areas where tourism needs to be better aligned with conservation.
In this coming decade, TOSCO is introducing three new, pertinent themes to replace our four programme areas. We will link tourism and conservation with the themes of climate, education and wildlife. We are developing new indicators of success. They will be integrated with global and national standards and will better measure and monitor our impact on behalf of our members, which they can communicate to their clients. TOSCO will continue to serve as an active and dynamic responsible tourism hub, where members can exchange best practices on responsible travel, where conservation partners can address members with tourismrelated matters, and communities can gain more access to tourism benefits.
As tourist preferences change towards more meaningful travel with reduced negative impacts on the destination, we believe that our aim to achieve genuinely responsible tourism will become ever more important. Travellers are willing to pay more if they know that their money reaches local communities and conservation initiatives where it makes a real difference, and they will increasingly look for tour operators and agents who can guarantee this. TOSCO is in the best position to help Namibian tourism businesses adapt to this positive market shift. As the sales and marketing manager of Ondili, Carsten von Lüttwitz, puts it: “Supporting TOSCO is a logical step for us to show our commitment to responsible and sustainable tourism in the areas of our operation. By collaborating with TOSCO we enable our guests to experience responsible and sustainable travel.”
Over the past decade, our TOSCO team has developed a solid understanding of community conservation and forged strong relationships with important conservation players, which enables us to be the link between these stakeholders and the tourism industry. In return, we will continue to help our members gain recognition as responsible tourism businesses among travellers, and grow into the Namibian benchmark for responsible travel. TNN
ABOVE: TOSCO is in support of the Lion Ranger Program, administrating performance based payments and organising trainings for 30 Lion Rangers across 10 conservancies in northwest Namibia. Lara Potma of TOSCO visiting a community garden to learn about challenges of crop raiding by elephants and identify the potential of chilli as a deterrent.
Become a TOSCO Member
We invite tour operators, accommodation providers, car rental companies, activity operators and other businesses linked to Namibian tourism to join our responsible tourism movement. Our five membership categories – Friends of TOSCO, Cheetah, Leopard, Lion and VIP – vary in price and the level of recognition you will receive in return. For more details email info@tosco.org.
OUR RESORTSDISCOVEROUR RESORTS
ANGOLA ACROSS THIS LAND OF ENDLESS HORIZONS
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ZAMBIA Kavango Zambezi (KAZA) Transfrontier Conservation Area
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Iona Skeleton Transfrontier Park
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Etosha National Park 5 4 7
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Etosha National Park 5 4 3
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Waterberg Plateau Park
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WINDHOEK Daan Viljoen Game Reserve 19 11
Waterberg Plateau Park
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WINDHOEK Daan Viljoen Game Reserve 19
Namib Naukluft Park
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Namib Naukluft Park 23
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1Kavango Zambezi (KAZA) Transfrontier Conservation Area
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Popa Falls Resort 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Onkoshi Resort Namutoni Resort Halali Resort Okaukuejo Resort Olifantsrus Campsite 6. Dolomite Resort 7. Terrace Bay Resort 8. Torra Bay Campsite 9. Khorixas Camp 10. Waterberg Resort 11. Mile 108 12. Mile 72 13. Jakkalsputz 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. Mile 141 Von Bach Dam1 Gross Barmen Resort Sun Karros Daan Viljoen Reho Spa1 Naukluft Camp Sesriem Camp Sossus Dune Lodge 23. Hardap Resort 24. Duwisib Castle 25. Shark Island 26. Hobas Lodge 27. /Ai-/Ais Hot Springs Spa 28. Boplaas Campsite 1 Public Private Partnership
Popa Falls Resort
Onkoshi Resort
Namutoni Resort
Halali Resort
Okaukuejo Resort
Olifantsrus Campsite
Dolomite Resort
Terrace Bay Resort
Torra Bay Campsite
Khorixas Camp
Waterberg Resort
Mile 108
Mile 72
Jakkalsputz
Mile 141
Von Bach Dam1
Gross Barmen Resort
Sun Karros Daan Viljoen1
Reho Spa1
Naukluft Camp
Sesriem Camp
Sossus Dune Lodge
Hardap Resort
Duwisib Castle
Shark Island
Hobas Lodge /Ai-/Ais Hot Springs Spa
Boplaas Campsite 1 Public Private Partnership
Pompie Burger
Nina van Schalkwyk
Elzanne McCulloch Nina van Schalkwyk
Le Roux van Schalkwyk
Le Roux van Schalkwyk
TRIPPING Rièth van Schalkwyk explores how to Springfind joy in the abundance and discover the magic of looking closer
Spring in Namibia offers everything to please a weather-worn traveller. Except flowers in bright colours. The sun shines every day all day from tangerine sunrise to scarlet sunset. The sky changes to different shades of blue throughout the day and temperatures are pleasantly high. It is hot and dry since most of Namibia is desert, but cool to cold at night because of the lack of moisture.
This year the landscape even sports a golden hue after the good rains of the past season which ended a drought of several years. The dry natural grass cover even on mountain slopes lends a softness to the dramatic landscape of contrasts.
The surest chance to escape cold, rain and wet is a visit to Namibia in spring. That is: August and September. There may be one last icy day or two on the central highland, the highest plateau around the capital, or in the deep south close to the Orange River if a cold front from South Africa pushes north. But it can never be cold enough to spoil your holiday for more than two days.
Namibia is truly a destination where sunshine can be expected almost 365 days a year. And if, for instance, a foggy day along the coast – where I am writing these words now – contradicts my statement, get in your car and drive away from it. Just head inland. The fog supplies necessary moisture to life in the Namib Desert.
If by chance you experience a day like that and you are in Swakopmund, take a tour with Living Desert Adventures. It will introduce you to the amazing variety of desert life. And it will be a happy memory of a single day without sunshine in Namibia.
Visitors from the northern hemisphere will be in wildlife heaven in Etosha and the Zambezi Region where the abundance of animals adds to the joyous weather. Because there is no water in the veld in Etosha at this time of year, animals are forced to walk across the pan and the flat plains to waterholes.
Along the way they stop to feed without hurry and in big numbers, providing ample opportunity for sunseekers to watch the natural world go by. Lazy lions rest in the shade of trees, watching and waiting. Big elephant bulls walk miles across the open veld in clear view to drink, bathe and dust themselves. Breeding herds choose specific waterholes where the little ones can learn waterhole etiquette and practice the skill of chasing away low-ranking species like giraffe, kudu, warthog and zebra.
Spring, which is truly the driest season in Namibia, offers the best waterhole experiences. Not only for watching animals, but the migrating birds returning from the north also offer pure delight to photographers because of the sparse, dry vegetation.
Coming back to flowers in springtime – Namibia does have a flower secret. It is not obvious and if your eyes are not trained to notice subtle colours in the dry landscape you may miss it altogether.
It is everywhere and in abundance but one cannot be sure when the powder-puff blossoms of the albizia trees or the popcorn fluff on the black thorn acacias will bloom. Along the main roads from south to north and east to west they are everywhere. On the red sand of the Kalahari, on rocky outcrops along the road, on the hillsides around the capital and even in the city where indigenous trees line the streets or grow in open spaces. To me they are as beautiful as cherry blossoms – just not pink and pretentious. The albizia trees are beautiful in form, with a dark trunk. That is how you would notice them. Look for the seemingly dry trees with dark trunks in the landscape devoid of strong colours. The blossoms last for approximately two weeks and they start blooming in the north first. Nobody can say when exactly, but it is worth being on the lookout.
For adventurous travellers to the Zambezi Region a flower surprise is waiting. There, the spring blossoms display a riot of colour. Spare yourself the frustration and buy Helga and Pompie Burger’s book before you travel to that part of Namibia regardless of the season. Namibia lends itself to the pleasure of revelling in abundance and the magic of discovery when you take the time and effort to look closer. TNN
A sleepout to remember
Towering over the desert landscape, anyone who has explored the area can attest that the Brandberg is an icon of Damaraland. The mountain holds the mythical secrets of the people who lived here many centuries ago, secrets preserved in their rock art and remains of their dwellings. It serves as a beacon to travellers, the more than 2500 metre Königsstein peak is visible from far away. It is the subject of numerous photographs, sketches, paintings, and even poetry, in an attempt to capture the feelings evoked by this imposing feature in an otherwise flat area marked by the gravel plains of the central Namib Desert.
What better way to bask in the grandeur of this imposing mountain than spending a starry night in the veld overlooking the Brandberg? Uis Elephant Guesthouse offers a sleepout glamping adventure, an unforgettable experience of everything this fascinating environment has to give.
Guests depart from Uis Elephant Guesthouse late in the afternoon for a picturesque drive to the sleepout location. As the sun slowly moves toward the horizon, the vehicle slowly meanders along a jeep track heading in a westerly direction. The enclosed game viewer ensures a comfortable trip, protected from the elements. Learn more about the environment from your expert guide Anton as you head further into the vast expanse of Damaraland. Anton, who has worked in the area for many years, will point out birds and wildlife and explain everything from the geological features of the Brandberg to the subsistence farmers who bravely rear livestock in this arid part of the country.
As sunset approaches, the camp comes into view, the dome tents and burning campfire incredibly inviting in the middle of nowhere. The camp is tucked away in a small open space created by a rocky outcrop. The granite walls offer perfect protection against the predominant southwesterly wind that blows most afternoons, while at the same time allowing for glorious views of the Brandberg. Arrival at the camp is timed to give just enough leeway for scrambling up the granite slope of the outcrop for a refreshing sundowner. As the sun dips below the horizon it bathes Brandberg in deep hues of orange, red and purple. After your sundowner, when you move down to the campfire, a chorus of barking geckos start their ritual communication, breaking the otherwise absolute silence of the desert.
A delicious dinner is prepared in typical Namibian fashion – on the fire. Afterwards, everyone moves back to the campfire. It keeps the chill of the night at bay, and along with a star-studded sky and good company makes for the perfect end to an eventful day.
Energised after a good night's rest on a stretcher and under a cosy duvet, rising early is recommended to watch, steaming cup of coffee in hand of course, as the rising sun magically colours the majestic mountain. Then it is a short drive back to the guesthouse for a breakfast with all the trimmings.
Uis Elephant Guesthouse is situated in the heart of the small mining town of Uis, the gateway to Damaraland. It offers four standard and five luxury rooms, as well as three duplex luxury suites. With its rustic, yet elegant and modern furnishings, it is the perfect base from which to explore Brandberg and its surroundings.
Apart from the sleepout, Uis Elephant Guesthouse also offers full-day excursions to Brandberg, sundowner drives as well as elephant drives through the dry riverbed of the Ugab in search of Namibia’s famous desert-adapted elephants. To fully explore Brandberg, you can book a three-night guided hike that takes you to the summit of Namibia’s highest mountain.
Visitors heading further north can experience Kaokoveld with an exciting sleepout in the Hoanib River arranged by Sesfontein Guesthouse, the sister establishment of Uis Elephant Guesthouse. TNN
For more information visit www.uisguesthouse.com or www.sesfontein-guesthouse.com.
Living wild in the land of Sand and Freedom: Three become four
Text & Photographs Lee Tindall
In the beginning of our journey there were three. Two adults and a small boy with blonde hair and blue eyes. After our first steps in the south and watching him make his way into the (then) head-high grass without looking back even once, we knew it was right. We knew that we all belonged here.
From the beginning Connor had a curiosity about the world around him and an affinity for how things work. This didn’t go away as he got older, it simply changed. Watching him grow into a toddler with sand between his toes, a gemsbok in front of him and surrounded by fellow desert dwellers who loved him, was the kind of privilege we take for granted while it is happening.
I still believe that the red sand entered his soul through osmosis and that rolling in the sand became his freedom call. Then, after being the only child to enjoy our attention and adoration, his world was shaken up by a tiny creature – at 2.1kg she was the smallest person any of us had ever seen. She arrived early, in pretty spectacular fashion that didn’t involve any sand or desert, but it did involve some fairly hasty driving on the gravel roads.
The week of Grace’s arrival was the week I will forever refer to as ‘Snake Week’. We saw three different lots of snakes and had two captures. I was 34 weeks pregnant, during the hottest month of the year. February is known to be brutally hot – and humid if it is a good rainfall season. Fortunately for my family, we had a bathroom with the coolest tiles imaginable, but only hot water came out of the shower. That was its own kind of torture. At this stage I was still actively working at a lodge and catering for clients, despite the fact that our doctor had scheduled a final check-up in the coastal town of Swakopmund for the day on which she was born in the (not so coastal) town of Mariental.
The day before she was born we had our final snake sighting of the week. Dealing with the previous ones had been relatively smooth in that they were outdoors and didn’t really require my set of hands. Capture One of that week did involve rearranging the rockery to get to the hole into which the snake slithered. Even from the shelter of our verandah it was extremely sweaty work just watching my husband do this. After much maneuvering of the rocks and sand, and perhaps some swear words, he caught the snake and took our still only child to release it. The catch that I am pretty sure induced labour required less moving of stuff, but more caution as it was indoors and neither small child or I were very quick at that stage.
Murray had gone to our local petrol station down the road (40 or so km) to get fuel and other essentials, which may have included ice cream. Connor was asleep and I had lumbered from the couch to the fridge in search of food that required no effort other than eating it. As I approached the fridge, which had a brightly coloured tea towel under it to catch the leaks, something looked slightly out of place. Enough out of place to stop me in my tracks as my eyes followed the weirdly shaped brown stick coming from the tea towel and leaning against the fridge door. Then I saw a head! The head of a cobra. Needless to say, I was no longer hungry, but I am still deeply impressed by my sudden athletic prowess and ability to move at lightning speed. Connor chose this very moment to wake up from his nap and wander into the kitchen. I tried to call Murray to encourage a hasty return home, no dawdling whatsoever. He encouraged me to keep watching the snake, so that we would know where it was when he got back. So, with nothing else going on, Connor and I climbed onto the kitchen table and chatted. A lot of our conversation was about the snake – there is a video, which to this day remains one of my favorite clips to watch. Murray hurried home and came to our aid. By that time I needed to go to the bathroom and corralling a dog, a two-year-old and watching a snake while doing that was not straightforward.
Murray is an incredible snake handler. He has a calm and patient way which I envy. Eventually he managed to coax this Cape cobra into a box and take it far away. I accompanied him to make sure he took it away far enough.
The morning after this excitement I woke feeling slightly woozy, a little light-headed and generally not so great, which I put down to the fact that it was very hot and humid – we had the biggest downpour the day after Grace was born – and that I was very pregnant and not able to sleep at all. Then I realised that it was “go time”, and things were happening. I remember wondering whether all that snake activity and the excitement had led to early onset of labour. We were so lucky that despite some panic and an earlier arrival than planned, our little girl made it and joined the three of us in the desert. TNN
Lee Tindall was born in Namibia. She grew up in some of the remotest parts of the country, living with her parents who were employed by the Ministry of Environment and Tourism, in some of Namibia’s most beautiful protected areas. It is here where her love and enthusiasm for nature developed, a passion that she promotes to this day. After spending a magical and memorable time living and working on NamibRand Nature Reserve, Lee and her family moved to the ProNamib Nature Reserve. A new chapter, that will be filled with adventure, growth and conservation. Alongside her position at ProNamib, she is the coordinator for the Greater Sossusvlei Namib Landscape - a NGO focused on large landscape conservation and upliftment. Her 'Living Wild' series for Travel News Namibia shares stories about a life lived differently.
RMB RIDE FOR RHINOS
Eight years of cycling for conservation
It’s an underappreciated job. Living out in the veld on only basic rations for weeks at a time. Covering considerable distances on foot over rocky mountains and sandy riverbeds. Exposed to the searing Damaraland heat in summer with little or no protection from the scorching sun. All in the name of monitoring and protecting the last free-roaming black rhino population left on our planet. The RMB Ride for Rhinos is an annual cycling event aimed at creating awareness of the tireless yet determined combined patrols done by Save the Rhino (SRT) trackers, rhino rangers (members of the local communities) and members of the Namibian Police. The event not only gives riders a tiny taste of the hardships endured by these individuals but it is also a means of raising funds for the ongoing conservation efforts by SRT. Le Roux van Schalkwyk goes along on the adventure.
The team from SRT
The fight against the poaching of these majestic beasts in Namibia has recently flared up again, signalling to all that the battle is far from won. Thus it is imperative that the hard work done by the Save the Rhino Trust (SRT) and the Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism is valued and supported. To this extent, the RMB Ride for Rhinos offers participants the chance to interact with individuals who are active on the frontlines of this battle as well as create a platform where issues hampering the conservation efforts can be discussed and possible solutions found on the side of the private sector.
This year marked the 8th RMB Ride for Rhinos. As evident by its name, the event centres around three days of cycling through the rugged, yet beautiful terrain of Damaraland. Cycling the carefully laid out routes allows participants to thoroughly take in their surroundings and sometimes test their skill with a tough climb or two – exhausting, but always done in high spirits. It also makes them appreciate the vast distances that SRT patrols do on foot every day, even though for the riders it is from the seat of a bicycle.
The 2022 RMB Ride for Rhinos took place from 22 - 26 July. This year saw the event return to its roots with the first three nights spent glamping at a picturesque campsite among weathered sandstone hills overlooking the Huab River Valley. While days were spent cycling, followed by game drives in the afternoon and rounded off with epic sundowners, evenings were reserved for chats around the large campfire. Regarding the current status of black rhinos in the northwest, insightful discussions were had with the CEO of SRT, Simson !Uri-≠Khob, who joined the group on the first night. Tommy Hall from the Blue Rhino Task Force was present for the duration of the event and gave an interesting talk on the use of mules for patrols in the area. This most recent initiative allows SRT to cover larger distances when out on patrol. With years of experience in rhino conservation, Hall’s anecdotes kept riders entertained late into the night.
After three days of traversing the challenging Damaraland terrain, the riders cycled into Wilderness Safaris' Damaraland Camp where the pool and cold drinks were waiting. As always, the event finished with a spit braai on the last night, after which the riders retired to the luxurious rooms of the lodge for a well-deserved rest.
Venture Media conceived the RMB Ride for Rhinos in an effort to share the company's passion for black rhinos and conservation in general with others in a meaningful way. The continued success of the event is attributable to the much-valued support from the main sponsor, RMB, and the partnership with Wilderness Safaris and CYMOT. Funds raised through the ride are invested in various black rhino conservation projects in north-western Namibia. TNN
