24 minute read
BIRDING
Quelea quelea
Text & Photographs Pompie Burger
Red-billed Quelea. Rooibekkwelea.
Visiting Etosha National Park in early May this year we encountered what might be a once-in-a-lifetime experience: watching a flock, or rather flocks, of Red-billed Queleas at Goas waterhole one morning coming in for their daily drink. Apparently this usually happens twice a day, but my fellow waterhole visitors in the car got a bit fed up with the once-in-a-lifetime experience after a few hours and I had to leave the birds on their own for the rest of the day, to my utter dismay.
Writing this article I cannot wait to mention their sheer numbers. I counted them and when I came to one million I got a little tired and time was running out, so unfortunately we will have to go again next year. The second fact, which might be slightly more accurate than the first, is that Queleas seem to be the most abundant bird species on earth, and we were lucky enough to see all of them in one morning at Goas waterhole. Apparently there are more than 1.5 billion Queleas in the world, take or leave a few thousand. The bad news is that over a million birds are killed annually, mainly by pesticides in control operations. The other main cause of deaths is food shortage. The fact that pesticides kill so many Queleas in turn leads to killing many of the predators hunting them; especially with large-scale, direct localised use of pesticides.
Apart from pesticides and food shortage their other enemies are birds of prey. Lanner Falcons are the main culprit, which we can confirm. We saw about five Lanners hanging around in nearby trees waiting for the appropriate moment to have another and yet another mid-morning snack. Whether their sheer numbers are of any use to the Queleas to avoid or frighten potential predation is doubtful, because any selfrespecting Lanner can just fly into a flock of Queleas with its bill open and fill it to the brim in one go. Other raptors which also enjoy the taste of Queleas are Peregrine Falcons, which are, like Lanners, very agile and fast flying raptors. Also quite fond of this delicacy at waterholes are crocodiles, not present at this particular waterhole, Marabou Storks (present), and Greenbacked Herons (absent).
Unfortunately, not only the adult birds are at risk but fledglings and nestlings are also vulnerable, especially to Cattle Egrets and various hornbills like Red-billed, Yellow-billed and Ground Hornbills. Breeding takes place mainly after good rains in early summer (November and December), while in other regions like Namibia, where the rainy season is later, during January and February. As one would expect, breeding is highly gregarious as all of the Queleas’ other activities are. Apparently they are monogamous, but you could have fooled me – who has
scientifically monitored that activity? And if so, I am almost 100% sure there are a few males, and females, who do not stick to this very noble rule.
Nests are usually built in trees, with a preference to acacia trees. Fortunately they do not strip the leaves around the nest, but unfortunately at times there are so many birds and nests on a single branch that the branch might break. As for distribution, Queleas occur in sub-Saharan Africa outside the forest zones, thus mainly semi-arid dry thorn veld and grassland. Cultivated land, especially in South Africa, is one of their prime targets, where they can demolish large areas of wheat, sorghum, millet, rice and buckwheat. These are obviously the places where they are most often targeted by control operations.
Moving around in such large numbers – numbers which are especially visible at waterholes – one would expect that all your senses will be attacked, visually obviously, but also acoustically. According to Roberts Birds of Southern Africa the sounds of their different calls are chatter, warbled, tweedle-toodle, chirt and finally their alarm call “chuck”. Luckily our sense of smell was not present, maybe because of the strong wind. Although, being so many birds, I wonder if the wind was possibly something of their own making.
As for their acrobatics, they should always be perfect if you look at the sheer numbers. They have to be exceptionally well-behaved in flight, otherwise the number of head-on collisions would be more than the car accidents during the annual Easter weekend on Namibian roads. In flight they look extremely well coordinated as they move in rolling waves from place to place. They normally move in a large flock with numerous smaller flocks also present, making the sight even more spectacular. One can imagine the havoc that would ensue if one bird should decide to fly in the opposite direction of the flock.
Because of their size, these birds do not eat that much. Their diet consists of seeds, grass, and termites. They also do their daily excretion in gregarious fashion – if you ever wondered where the two hills near Halali Rest Camp come from.
The final bad habit of these little birds is that they tend to visit suburban areas, especially bird feeders in gardens. Once word is out that you have put some seeds out you will soon have a flock of Queleas visiting and demolishing all the food from the feeding table before any other bird. Even the Laughing Doves seem to get out of their way when they arrive in numbers. If you are lucky enough to be one of the chosen few on their visiting lists, do have a look at the many variations in their facial markings. If in doubt about the identification of these birds, just count them – if they are more than a million it must be Queleas. TNN
AN ESCAPE TO YOUR OWN PRIVATE WILDERNESS
at Etosha Heights with Natural Selection
“Good morning all stations,” our guide, Grevin, greets his fellow guides on his two-way radio before we depart Safarihoek. The crisp morning in July does little to dampen our excitement: we are leaving on a game drive through the Etosha Heights Private Reserve. As we descend the steep hill leading away from the lodge, the sun, not yet visible, starts to change the colours of the surrounding bush. With the change of light the temperature drops and adds a little extra bite to an already sharp winter's morning. We are thankful for the cosy ponchos handed out by Grevin before departure to shield us against the cold. Muted excitement is in the air. The break of dawn always holds the unlimited potential of the new day and in this case the prospect of amazing sightings.
Fifteen minutes into the drive the first rays of the sun cast a coppery light over the world and leave the entire area in a warm orange glow. We pass some red hartebeest, waterbuck, plains zebra and even a pair of Kori Bustards, Africa’s heaviest flying bird. The two-way radio remains silent, which means the other guide vehicles haven't seen anything noteworthy either, and so the tension builds. The morning carries too much promise not to deliver and one can almost feel it brewing in the air.
As if preplanned, a pride of 12 lions make their appearance together with the rising sun. The big cats leisurely walk parallel to the jeep track and seem to pay little attention to us. Grevin informs the other guides of our location while simultaneously manoeuvring into position for a beautiful picture of a young lion walking through the grass, perfectly lit by the golden rays of the rising sun. The sudden realisation of tension and the immense beauty of the scene leaves everyone on the game viewer in a sense of awe.
The lions were the highlight of the day, but the rest of the game drive – like all game drives on the property – was no less exciting. The 60 000 ha private nature reserve shares a lengthy border with Etosha National Park and offers an authentic wildlife experience. Game drives guarantee abundant sightings of plains game while lions, giraffes, black and white rhinos and elephants are also spotted regularly. Safarihoek is perched on top of a hill with majestic vistas of a mopane savannah extending as far as the eye can see. A waterhole, where animals drink throughout the day, is situated around 500 metres below the lodge. A sparkling pool invites guests to cool off in summer, while the friendly staff are on hand to assist with any needs.
Safarihoek has 11 thatched chalets. The interior decorations impart an air of effortless style maintained throughout the entire establishment. Each chalet has its own private balcony from where the almost constant activity of wildlife at the waterhole can be observed in comfort.
A double-storey photographic hide at the waterhole makes for an excellent pastime. The ground floor gives a water-level view, ideal for photographers wanting to get that perfect close-up shot. Even if you are not a photographer, it is easy to spend hours just listening to the sounds of the bush and observing the fascinating behaviour of wildlife around the waterhole.
Whether it is an elephant visiting the waterhole while you are having coffee, or a giraffe showing off its long neck for a silhouetted picture during sundowners – Etosha Heights feels as if you were in the neighbouring national park. Except that you aren’t. Each sighting in Etosha Heights is a unique experience, only shared by those who are with you on the game viewer. This is truly your own private wilderness in the heart of the Namibian bush. TNN
BLUE WILDEBEEST
FIGHT ENDS IN WATERHOLE
Text & Photographs Dirk Heinrich
Territorial blue wildebeest bulls can be spotted at several waterholes in Etosha National Park. Establishing their territory around these important drinking places is like hitting the jackpot for these bulls because the females have to come to the water at least once a day. This is the opportunity to mate with many females, but it is equally exhausting to keep all the rivals at bay. For intruding bulls this is also a problem because they will be chased away by the “owner” of the territory.
The mating season of blue wildebeest, also known as brindled gnu, lasts for about three weeks and coincides with the end of the rainy season. The mating season or rut begins on the night of the full moon, suggesting that the lunar cycle might influence breeding. During this phase testosterone production peaks in males, and bulls coming to the water will often not stand back when meeting the territorial bull.
These photos were taken two days after the full moon in April this year at the Newbroni waterhole east of Okaukuejo in the Etosha National Park. It was likely the start of the mating season. The thirsty bull did not back off when the territorial bull approached, having just chased away another bull who came to drink. Once opposite each other, the two males – both in prime condition – kneeled without further delay to start their ritualised fight which lasted just over five minutes. Both bulls were strong and neither of them was going to back off. The battle was intense and gradually brought the two contestants closer to the waterhole. Eventually they ended up in the water, with both having difficulties to kneel down. Once back on the bank the fight ended a few seconds later, as abruptly as it had started. It could not be established who the winner was – the territorial bull or the intruder.
Male blue wildebeest become sexually mature at the age of two years. The curved horns of a bull can be 83 cm long. They reach a shoulder height of 1.4 metres and attain a body mass of up to 270 kilograms. The preorbital glands are situated between the eye and the nose, and are used by the territorial male for scent-marking by rubbing the glands on the ground or low vegetation.
Blue wildebeest are large ungulate mammals of the genus Connochaetes and the C. taurinus comprises five distinct subspecies. Connochaetes taurinus taurinus (blue wildebeest or brindled gnu) is the one found in Namibia and in central to southern Africa. Individuals are silvery slate grey in colour, which is where the common name “blue” wildebeest originates from. C. t. johnstoni (Nyassaland wildebeest) occurs in southern Tanzania and Mozambique and is the largest subspecies. C. t. mearnsi (western white-bearded wildebeest) is the smallest and is found only in Kenya and western Tanzania. C. t. mearnsi is the darkest hued wildebeest while C. t. albojubatus (eastern white-bearded wildebeest) is the palest in colour and found in Kenya and eastern Tanzania. The last subspecies, C. t. cooksoni (Cookson’s wildebeest), is restricted to the Luangwa Valley. TNN
Embracing the wild side of the Erongo
Text & Photographs Le Roux van Schalkwyk
Situated some 10 kilometres west of Omaruru and roughly a two-hour drive from Windhoek, Erongo Wild invites guests to become absorbed by the natural beauty of the Erongo Mountains. It is a place brimming with life, which is evident as soon as you arrive. You are immediately surrounded by the calls of White-browed Sparrow-weavers, African Red-eyed Bulbul and a chorus of Rosy-faced Lovebirds – sounds that will become synonymous with Erongo Wild. Dassies (rock hyrax) perched atop their rock thrones join in the fun with a couple of shrieks, while intermittently the bark of a baboon can be heard from the surrounding granite hills.
S WA SAFARIS NAMIBIA
It is no coincidence that this small paradise is known as Okapekaha by the Herero people, which means “where the water does not dry up.” The Herero, however, were not the first to discover the lifesustaining potential of the Klippdachs Mountains, as the northeastern foothills of the Erongo are called. Centuries earlier, the San inhabited the area and left behind fine rock art sites. The most prominent and interesting one, from an archaeological perspective, is Paula Cave.
The site was proclaimed a national monument in 1951 on the recommendation of German archaeologist Dr Ernst-Rudolf Scherz. What makes the rock art exceptional is described by renowned palaeontologist Henri Breuil as “large, red-haired humans with relatively long bodies, several animals, amongst them elephant and rhinoceros. Further behind them is a group of red-haired people, who are apparently under attack from a larger group of black men with arrows.” There are also rare drawings such as a walking pregnant woman and what looks like flute players. An excursion to Paula Cave offers a remarkable glimpse into the distant past.
To become fully immersed in this fascinating landscape, several hiking trails are available. You can choose a shorter trail on your own or one of the longer guided hiking trails and learn about plants and birdlife as well as some of the fascinating geology. Trails are especially recommended to birders as nearly 200 bird species have been recorded in the area. Keep a look out for the seven endemics, which include Hartlaub’s Francolin, White-tailed Shrike, Damara Rock-runner, Monteiro's Hornbill and Rüppell’s Parrot. With nesting sites in the surrounding mountains and the dassie-rich crevices, Verreaux Eagles are also spotted regularly.
Rosy-faced Lovebird
Erongo Wild’s tented chalets seamlessly blend into their surroundings. Tucked into the boulders, each chalet offers privacy while nevertheless affording splendid views from their private decks. The main area is perched on a granite dome among purple-pod terminalia trees – the purple fruit adds a splash of colour to the greenery of other bushes and the redbrown hues of the granites.
Whether theorising about what the ancient San art of Paula Cave is meant to portray, ticking another bird off the list or exploring one of the hiking trails – come and embrace the natural paradise of Erongo Wild. TNN
For more information visit www.erongowild.com or contact them at res7@journeysnamibia.com.
See Namibia's smallest antelope, the Damara dik-dik, on a game drive or hike | The entrance to Paula Cave | Ancient San art of a walking pregnant woman | Cardo is one of the friendly guides and has extensive knowledge of the plant and wildlife found in the area
Three adventures to embark on in the ZAMBEZI REGION
Abundant water lilies on the Kwando
Whenever explaining travels, destinations, and the roads leading to adventure in Namibia, my right hand comes out. Palm facing down, index finger folded and thumb stretched out, the back of my hand instantly becomes a map. The shape of Namibia can be indicated with a single hand, and the Zambezi region is the thumb. No coincidence then that this corner of the land, often overlooked or left off visitor itineraries for being so farflung, can be summarised by “an indication of satisfaction or approval” (a.k.a. “thumbs up”).
Text & Photographs Charene Labuschagne
If you are in search of adventure, the wet and wonderful Zambezi region is destined to shake your soul, get your adrenaline pumping and make for unforgettable memories. And despite being less popular than destinations like Etosha and Sossusvlei, the tourist accommodation and activities here are comfortably on par with both the aforementioned. While game drives dominate inland activities, the Zambezi allows for another avenue of adventure – exploring the area via the water ways. The mighty rivers that run the region’s borders (Zambezi, Chobe and Kwando Rivers) are the nucleus of life around here, for both animals, locals and adventure-seeking visitors.
NUMBER ONE: FISHING, NATURALLY, AND NAVIGATING THE WATERS
Everything up here revolves around the rivers. The local diet consists of equal parts free-roaming beef, chicken and fresh fish caught daily. Bream, as I have come to know on my recent visit, is the Zambezi’s equivalent to cob. It is always the catch of the day, always prepared and served with the head attached, and tastes delicious. While you are likely to enjoy a fillet of bream for dinner, it is the elusive tiger fish that has fishing aficionados traversing the hefty drive to the thumb of Namibia. Few things truly say “holiday” like sitting on a folding chair, cold beer in hand, drifting on a majestic river while trying your luck with the fishing rod.
Renting a houseboat with a group of friends is some of the best-spent money, not only because splitting costs makes the whole thing more affordable, but also because here fishing, when done without the primary incentive of sustenance, is a social sport. Catch and release is the name of the game, and if you are by no means a fan of fishing, but your friends are, rest assured there’s room on the boat to catch a tan.
Up close with a crocodile on the Chobe
Trying our luck on the Zambezi
Cruising along the Kwando
NUMBER TWO: GAME VIEWING, ON STEROIDS
Even the standard game drive becomes an adventure in the Zambezi. With the added appeal of spotting hippos, crocodiles, as well as elephants and antelope, wildlife experiences here are unparalleled. My personal favourite asset from the region is its abundant birdlife. The African Fish Eagle’s cry echoes through dense bushveld – how magical when you finally spot one after keeping your eyes peeled to the treetops. The Lilac-breasted Roller swoops around, showing off his brilliant colours and tailfeathers. I could spend hours watching the Pied Kingfisher as he hovers, dips, hovers, and dips again. During the heat of the day, or whenever larger species seem scarce, I would urge anyone to look intentionally at the treetops. Staying longer, looking harder, and finally spotting them is an adventure also!
Baobabs and buffalos on Botswana’s side of the Chobe
The original means of transport in this region: a mokoro Game drive in Bwabwata, en route to Horseshoe Bend
NUMBER THREE: LIFE ALONG THE ROADSIDE, NO LESS EXCITING AS THE ADRENALINE ADVENTURES
While life around here revolves around the water, equal – if not greater – adventure can be had in a vehicle. For most travellers, venturing to the thumb of Namibia involves a lot of time in a car just getting there. Once you make it to the thumb, a slower pace is recommended. Between small towns and villages (which are scattered throughout the region in all shapes and sizes) traffic is common. Haste is non-existent, except for the odd free-range chicken dashing across the road. Look out the window, get out of the air-conditioned car, and engage with the quaint shops, shebeens and people with centuries worth of stories to tell.
This is the greatest adventure: not necessarily going further, higher, more extreme, fast paced; but slower, thoroughly, looking closer, really becoming present in the thrill. That of being close to a killer crocodile which, despite being the uncontested alpha, still scurries into the water when we approach. Seeing hippos bob up from under the water, where there was nothing a second ago, and the sheer size of their jaws when they yawn. Paying attention to the evolutionary wonder of birds, their endless variations, calls and colours. But also the people who live alongside these rivers, whose daily adventures on the banks of the Kwando, Chobe and Zambezi are a rare privilege to witness. TNN
On Photography.
Text Pompie Burger
Photography, when in Namibia, is of utmost importance. After all you need to capture the beauty of this picturesque country, be it with your cell phone or your camera with a 2000 mm lens. There are many wild and wonderful things in Namibia, so you should be fully prepared to have lots of space on your memory card, and your co-passengers should also have a full memory card of patience. You can repeat and relive so much of your trip when going through your photographs back home, but please refrain from boring your best friends with a slide show, keep it for your not so best friends/enemies.
Without going into too much detail, you unfortunately will need some sort of equipment, in this case a camera or cell phone (not a Tamagotchi), or both. The paraphernalia like lenses, tripods, flashes and beanbags can then be added to satisfy your specific needs. With a fancy camera, keep in mind that travelling and camping can get a bit dusty, so be prepared to protect your equipment. Extreme temperatures, condensation, water and vibration can also harm cameras and lenses.
For me, the wonderful thing about taking pictures with a cell phone (never done it myself!) is that it enables most users to take much better shots than your professional photographers. The other advantage is being ready in no time to take the ultimate picture, because the bigger the camera/lens, the longer it takes to get into position, get your settings right and find a suitable place to stabilise it. However, I do think that fortunately most of the basic rules applicable to a fancy camera and a cell phone are pretty much the same.
Do not praise yourself while going to battle. Praise yourself coming out of battle.
Russian proverb
To take the most stunning and dramatic photographs, timing is of utmost importance. The golden hour during the day is plus minus two hours after sunrise and two hours before sunset. In Namibia, the light can be quite harsh during the middle of the day, resulting in rather flat pictures. Having said that, just do it whenever the opportunity arises. You can also ask the leopard to come back later when the light is better. Rather take your Mittag slaapie (midday nap) between 12h00 and 15h00.
When going into the bush there are rules/ ethics to adhere to. Respect for nature, wildlife and your fellow travellers. The old maxim to not leave anything behind, except footprints, not even tyre prints (off-road), and to take only pictures, is always applicable. Needless to say, be careful with any form of fire (matches, cigarettes, firearms). Please do not leave any garbage, rather take it with you and discard it at an appropriate place. Do not do any pruning to get a better photo. When in the company of other tourists/ friends, be considerate when taking pictures (even if you are so excited you want to jump all over the lion), they also want to see and take photos. When you drive in a park and see people in another car in front of you busy taking pictures, do not charge past, wait till they finish or indicate to you that you can proceed. When sitting at a waterhole, keep quiet! Allow the animals to get used to your presence. You will be surprised at the remarkable aspects of their private lives which they will reveal to you. Ethics is indeed a state of mind.
One of the best pieces of advice I got as a photographer, by well-known Namibian photographer Amy Schoeman: “Never let rules come between you and your photographs.” If we all use the same rules, we will end up taking pictures looking the same. In the end, being at the right place at the right time will be the ultimate moment to take the milliondollar picture. “We do not see things as they are, we see them as we are” ( Anaïs Nin). Remember, photography is like anything else in life, the more you practice the luckier you get. As with your fellow tourists, be patient. Patience is probably the best weapon in any photographer’s arsenal.
“You must do what you need to do before it is too late” (Johan Bakkes). If you do not go to Namibia – or when you have arrived and sit on the deck of your lodge drinking Gin and Tonic the whole day – you will miss out! TNN
