Whispered luxuries and wild encounters at Onguma Game Reserve

As the sun set on the final evening of our visit, our hearts were as warm as the play of colour on the horizon. Under the sprawling canvas of a fading African sky, where hues of crimson and lavender melt into twilight, makalani palms sway to a gentle breeze, accompanied by the silhouettes of a tower of giraffes as they slowly amble along – a puppet show of shadows against the evening glow. As night crept up on the savannah, our search for the elusive lioness, whom we had tracked with bated breath for the last hour, culminated in an unexpected rendezvous. While our eyes were still trained on the far-off treeline from where we expected her to emerge, she appeared, in the dimming light, not five metres from our Land Cruiser. Unbothered by our presence she glided past, her gaze fixed on a distant herd of impala, her evening's quarry. We left her to her twilight hunt, turning our own path toward Camp Kala, where luxury awaited under a starlit dome.

Our adventure had begun two sunsets prior at Onguma Tented Camp, a seamless blend of elegance and wilderness. An introductory game drive on the reserve yielded a completely unexpected delight. I am not sure if it was us or our guide who was most surprised when we spotted a leopard barely ten minutes into our journey. Hiding among the thick bush close to the road, the spotted feline surreptitiously peered at us through thorny branches before darting off towards thicker cover. It had been months since the guides could claim a leopard sighting on a reserve drive. That first night, under the vast sky at the edge of a large clearing, we dined al fresco while Etosha’s white pan glimmered in the distance. Over dinner, the reserve manager shared harrowing tales from the front lines of conservation, where protecting the reserve’s prized rhinos meant constant vigilance and confrontations with poachers – a testament to the fierce, and never-ending, battle between preservation and extinction.

The following morning we trekked through the bush on a guided nature walk, our senses tuned to the subtle wonders of the ecosystem all around. Our knowledgeable guide, Victor, teaches us about the delicate interplay of flora and fauna. The morning’s wild sojourn culminates in breakfast in the bush, accompanied by the cheerful clinking of mimosas – a perfect start to the day.

Adventure is a luxury

Our most unforgettable night during our escape into Onguma’s wilds was certainly aboard the Onguma Dreamcruiser. This marvel, a double-story Land Cruiser transformed into a luxurious suite, offered both comfort and an unparalleled connection with nature. Parked beside a private waterhole, our evening unfolded with a parade of wildlife, starting with a cheetah that briefly graced us with its presence. Soon a black rhino took centre stage, chasing the feline off to privately savour its evening drink as we watched in awe from our rooftop bed, hidden behind a mosquito net.

Throughout the night, the ballad of the bush played out in surround sound, stirring us from sleep with the thrill of proximity to mysterious creatures. Only a quick torch sweep revealed who our visitors were.

The following morning Victor collected us bright-eyed (from excitement, not rest) from our private sanctuary and our explorations extended beyond the confines of Onguma. A venture into neighbouring Etosha National Park brought us face-to-face with the park’s wildlife highlights – cheetahs darting through the grass, rhinos lumbering in the dust, elephants splashing in cool waters, and a leopard lounging beneath the thorny brush of an acacia.

It’s in the details

Our journey comes full circle upon our return to Camp Kala, a sanctuary of opulence where the Condé Nast Traveler's Hot List accolade of 2023 echoes in its every detail. Only four suites, each a bastion of privacy and comfort, offer a retreat where the wild meets the refined. Here, pampered by our private butler, we indulged in a six-course culinary feast prepared in front of us in the theatre-style display kitchen by new head chef Anthony. We spent our final visiting hours soaking in our deck bath, breathing in the evening air late into the night – the tranquil waterhole laid out before us like a mirror reflecting the stars above.

Onguma reminded me of the power of being surrounded by nature, every moment a dance of wild encounters. The experience is swathed in whispered luxuries, making it not just a destination, but a profound celebration of life's contrasts.

For more visit onguma.com

- Elzanne McCulloch

First published in the Winter 2024 issue of Travel Namibia magazine. Subscribe to Travel Namibia here: www.travelnewsnamibia.zinioapps.com/shop