Welcome to Lüderitz by Venture Media

Namibia

Published by Venture Publications P. O. Box 25193, Windhoek, Namibia rieth@venture.com.na First published in 2015 Copyright ÂŠ Venture Publications 2015 John Meinert Printing, Windhoek Managing Editor Rieth van Schalkwyk Production Manager Elzanne Erasmus Main Contributor Bruno de Comarmond Text compiled by Marita van Rooyen Design and Layout Vicky Human Photography Brian McMorrow Paul van Schalkwyk Roland Graf Brad Wood Dr. Justine Braby Dr. Jessica Kemper Dr. Ingrid Wiesel Ulf GrĂźnewald Available online as PDF Download from: www.travelnewsnamibia.com All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means without prior written permission from the publisher.

foreword By Dr. Sem T. Shikongo Director of Tourism, Ministry of Environment & Tourism

We know Lüderitz is a special place and we want to share it with the world. It is a place where you will experience ancient, recent and modern history. I grew up in Lüderitz and have fond memories of this place where one can smell the ocean, is forced to taste the ancient sand of the Namib and hear the roar of the engine that keeps Namibia’s rich marine resources flowing. I am a Buchter, as we call ourselves, one of those inhabitants who have transcended racial, tribal and linguistic barriers and boundaries and yet remained firm in our traditional values. Take your time to read this book and discover the treasures of one of the southern-most towns in Namibia, situated in one of the most interesting natural biomes. Once you know what you are looking at, and know what to look for, the treasures you may

uncover will make the visit worth your journey. Tourism has opened up the town and brought much needed development. Hotels, guest houses, restaurants and tourism operators compliment the thriving fishing industry, which became the backbone of the town’s economy at the end of the diamond era. Day trips into Namibia’s most remote national park, the Tsau//Khaeb Park, is an amazing adventure available to few. Tasting oysters from some of the cleanest and richest waters of the Atlantic Ocean, and sharing a crayfish as close to the source as you can get is sure to leave a lasting memory with all discerning travellers. Foreword

.. WELCOME TO LÜDERITZ On the south-western edges of the Namib Sand Sea lies a little bay that once attracted renowned explorer Bartolomeu Diaz to plant his stone cross and entice others to follow suit. Situated on a rocky shore bordering a harsh desert environment, Lüderitz is one of Namibia’s truly unique destinations. And the town’s history is just as tumultuous as its coastline. Colourful early 20th century German colonial buildings, dusty alleyways, and the charming fishing harbour evoke feelings of nostalgia. The surroundings are characterised by large stretches of unspoiled beach, rare succulent flora, exclusive animal species, agates and desert roses, and remnants of a rush for diamonds that officially put the area on the map. Today, Lüderitz is especially famous for its delicious fresh seafood, including crayfish, oysters,

Welcome to Lüderitz

abalone, and of course fish, all celebrated at the annual Lüderitz Crayfish Festival. The Waterfront developments and the establishment of a Maritime Museum are additional drawing cards and offer opportunities to engage in the area’s history from a modern setting. If Lüderitz is already on your itinerary we wish you a most enjoyable visit to our wonderful, uncrowded and wild environment. If you are thinking of including Lüderitz in your visit to Namibia, we hope that our information book will entice you to come and enjoy all that this eccentric and quaint coastal town has to offer.

contents History .................................. 6 Namibia's Diamonds............. 8 Architecture & Heritage ........ 10

Diaz Point

Marks the spot where the first action at the bay was recorded as Portuguese explorer Bartolomeu Diaz planted his stone cross back in 1488.

Halifax Island

Home to Namibia’s second largest colony of African penguins, monitored by the African Penguin Conservation Project.

Attractions ............................12 Activities ...............................16 Wildlife ..................................20 Culinary ................................ 24 Accommodation .................. 26 The Lüderitz Community ..... 28 General Information ............. 29 4

Welcome to Lüderitz

Lüderitz Speed Challenge

The fastest and most extreme speed sailing event on earth draws crowds to the small town over October/November. Since 2007, 75 national and 12 world-speed sailing records have been broken on Lüderitz’ waters.

Namib Naukluft Park

Must-do's:

Protected Area

Dunes Seal Island

Shark Island

Agate Beach

A reminder of the town’s past and home to a number of noteworthy memorials, including those commemorating Captain Cornelius Fredericks and Adolf Lüderitz.

LÜDERITZ Springbok Penguin Island

Lighthouse Diaz Cross

Aeroplane Beach

Catamaran Tours

Pan Old Airfield Griffith Bay

Black Ridge

Knochen Bucht D 701

Damara Tern Witmuur (Breeding Area) Essy Bay

Stadium

Lüderitz Nest Hotel

Waterfront

Mesem Radford Bay Bay Oyster Farm Second Lagoon

Oyster Farm

Desert Succulents

D 702

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Lüderitz Speed Channel D 701

Brown Hyena (Strandwolf)

Fjord D 733

Kleiner Fjord Kleiner Bogenfels

Damara Tern (Breeding Area) Grosse Bucht

(www.luderitz-speed.com)

Ts a (S u/ pe /K rr ha ge eb bi P et ar ) k

Eberlanz Höhle

The Waterfront Development is an additional drawing card, and offers opportunities to engage in the area’s history from a modern setting.

Airport

Bogenfels 100 Km South

Namibia’s most famous ghost town is located about 10 km inland from Lüderitz. In its heyday it was a bustling little centre that housed the first x-ray machine in the southern hemisphere.

To: Keetmanshoop

Diamond Area

LÜDERITZ PENINSULA ROUTE (2x2 vehicles) LÜDERITZ PENINSULA ROUTE (4x4 vehicles only) LÜDERITZ HERITAGE ROUTE AGATE BEACH ROUTE

Kolmanskop

Kolmanskop Ghost Town

Wild Horses of Garub GRAF DESIGN

Halifax Point

Guano Bay

Robert Harbour

Kartoffel Bucht

Lüderitz is renowned for its old-world charm and distinctly German colonial architecture.

Oryx

Fish Factories

Shark Island

Sturmvogel Bucht Shearwater Bay

Distinctive Architecture

Nautilus Hill

Angra Point

Halifax Island

Abalone Farm

Wild Horses

The unspoilt natural environment surrounding Lüderitz is 5 home to a herd of mysterious desert horses.

LOOKING BACK A brief look into Lüderitz's history 1488: The bay is first recorded by

Portuguese explorer Bartolomeu Diaz who erects a stone cross there and names the wind-swept shores Angra Pequena (Little Bay). He continues his sea voyage to find a passage to India, but has to return prematurely, and for many years nobody else is brave enough to land at the bay’s treacherous coastline.

1904: Economic development

of Lüderitzbucht is hampered by environmental factors such as strong winds and encroaching sand (still typical of the town), and lack of materials needed to survive. It is only with the Nama/Herero uprisings that the struggling settlement is finally brought to civic status.

1922: Management of the town and diamond

interests change hands shortly after the onslaught of WWI. Industries continue to strive under the South West Africa Administration, and in the same year four rock lobster factories open their doors, marking the beginnings of another promising economic sector.

Welcome to Lüderitz

1842: The discovery of guano deposits on the offshore islands attracts the first entrepreneurs. They make the most of the opportunity to exploit the precious fertiliser which at the time is known as ‘white gold’. Three years later sources had been exhausted and the bay was once again abandoned. 1907: When peace returns to the colony, the harbour town boasts upgraded port facilities and a railway line linking it to the interior. Lüderitzbucht is officially recognised as an independent district.

1908: Despite preceding events, it is a small sparkling stone, picked up by railway worker Zacha rias Lewala, which sparks development on a grand scale in the wake of the diamond rush. News of the find spreads like wildfire and fortune seekers converge on the bay in their masses (see page 8 for more info).

1928: Diamonds are discovered at the Orange River mouth and operations are moved further south. The fortunes of the local economy start to shift and it becomes stuck in a rut for several decades. 1983: Celebrating a centenary since Adolf Lüderitz proclaimed his territory, conservation etiquette is agreed upon in an effort to protect the town’s historical buildings from demolition.

1861: New interest in the

offshore islands is triggered by their annexation to the Cape Colony, which sees businessman Aaron de Pass set up a private settlement, trading post and small fish processing station at Radford Bay.

1883: German involvement reaches the unclaimed coastline with the arrival of Bremen merchant Adolf Lüderitz and his entourage. They negotiate a deal with local chief Josef Fredericks and obtain the bay and surrounding land to establish a trading post – and a foothold for the German Empire.

1884: Lüderitz sells his rights to the Empire, and the land he had purchased is officially declared a German Protectorate. Upon his passing two years later, Little Bay was renamed Lüderitzbucht in his honour.

1909: Official

building regulations are introduced and the town starts to take on a quaint, well-ordered look with distinct German architecture.

1989: Fishing continued to be the backbone of the town until mining operations are re-introduced at Elizabeth Bay, and the economy is suddenly injected with a new spark.

2000: Tourism proved to be another substantial contributor to the local economy, and the ground-breaking of the Lüderitz Waterfront Project paves the way for renewed prospects for the town.

1911: A trolley system, known as Stadtbahn, provides efficient transport in town and to the surrounding areas.

2012: The Church on the Rock, the Felsenkirche, commemorates its 100th year as a beacon of survival and bringer of hope throughout the town’s turbulent history. Despite economic and development challenges, Lüderitz continues to entice visitors, explorers and Buchters (as the locals call themselves) with its distinct coastal charm.

History

LÜDERITZ & NAMIBIA’S DIAMONDS The Story

Zacharias Lewala, the first man to happen upon a diamond in the Namib, was part of a team of railway labourers who maintained the railway line between Aus and Lüderitz. Railway inspector August Stauch, besides telling the workers to keep the tracks clear of sand, also instructed them to look out for “remarkable stones”. The discovery of the first shiny gem was followed by a massive rush and the establishment of the mining settlements of Kolmanskuppe, Idatal, Stauchslager, Charlottental, Bogenfels and, two years later, Elizabeth Bay. The largest of these, Kolmanskuppe, soon became a bustling little centre featuring a butchery, bakery, furniture factory, soda-water and lemonade plant, ice factory, four-pin skittle alley, public playground, and a large seawater swimming pool. Kolmanskuppe boasted the first X-ray machine in the southern hemisphere as well as the first tram in Africa. In order to protect diamond mining interests, the first conservation laws in Namibia were passed in 1909, which in effect gave the Deutsche Kolonialgesellschaft (DKG) the sole right to prospect and mine minerals in the Lüderitzbucht area. The diamond area became known as the Sperrgebiet or “forbidden territory”. 8

Welcome to Lüderitz

Diamond mining largely stopped when the Great War broke out in Europe in early August 1914. By that time an estimated 4 million carats of diamonds had been produced. In September the Union of South Africa sent troops into German South West Africa and 2 000 soldiers occupied Lüderitzbucht. In February 1920, after Union proclamations cancelled all previous mineral concessions, Ernest Oppenheimer (later Sir Ernest), founder & CEO of Anglo American Corporation, gained control over the German mining companies and amalgamated them to form one company, which became known as the Consolidated Diamond Mines of South West Africa (CDM). Under the Halbscheid Agreement of 1923, CDM obtained mining rights for 50 years in the Sperrgebiet. These rights were later extended to 2010. CDM and the Namibian Government now have equal shares in the rebranded company NAMDEB, and continue to play a significant role in contributing to the social economic development of Namibia.

MY LIFE AT KOLMANSKUPPE by Margaret Mozny (née Nennig)

Diamond Facts:

• Diamonds have been recovered from the Namibian coast since 1908 • The first diamond in Namibia was discovered near Kolmanskuppe • Namibian deposits have yielded a total of approximately 100 million carats • The largest diamond so far weighed 246 carats

“My name is Margaret Mozny (née Nennig) and I was born at Kolmanskuppe Hospital on March 28th, 1931. My father came to Kolmanskuppe from Germany to work for the diamond mine because there was no work in Germany after World War I. This was in the year 1929. We were very poor and the only 'fun' I had was sliding down the sand dunes. But we had electricity and I was able to read books. I attended the Kolmanskuppe Schule and I do remember two teachers from my school, Miss Buchsieb and Miss Cesar (both German). My parents and I left Kolmanskuppe in 1938 because CDM (Consolidated Diamond Mines), the mining company, dismissed most of the German workers. My parents and I left for Windhoek in 1938 and I am still living there with my husband today (2015). The old images of Kolmanskuppe and Elizabeth Bay that you see here are from my own album.” Editor: I am delighted that I was able to trace Margaret (one of the very few remaining Kolmanskuppe ex-residents) – “Danke, Margaret, for providing us with your firsthand account”. 9

architecture & heritage Dating back to the early 1900s, Lüderitz has an old-world appeal that is characterised by its German colonial architecture. The brightly coloured buildings with their gables, winding stairwells, verandas, balconies and lookout towers have a distinctive character that contrasts starkly with the sandy surroundings of the town. Among the most striking architectural attractions are the Goerkehaus and Felsenkirche. Both adorn the slopes of Diamond Mountain. The church with its beautiful stained-glass windows is truly unique, as all building materials – even the sand - were shipped from Germany. In the ‘old town’ are the houses of former mining magnates and prominent businessmen, including Kreplin House and Troost House. The Krabbenhöft & Lampe Building was erected for a trading business during the period of economic prosperity that followed the discovery of diamonds. The Deutsche Afrika Bank is part of the historic street view of Bismarck Street, one of the oldest roads in town. In Berg Street, in the historic core of the town, is a complex of residences built during the diamond boom. Other noteworthy structures are the old post 10

Welcome to Lüderitz

office, the former German school, the Lesehalle and the Turnhalle. Shark Island, a little distance from the centre, is a reminder of the town’s tragic past with a number of noteworthy memorials, including those commemorating Captain Cornelius Fredericks and Adolf Lüderitz. Another one, which was unveiled in 1903 to mark 20 years of German colonisation, originally stood in the old Nautilus cemetery on the site of the first surveyor’s beacon but was moved in 1976, as were the graves of German soldiers. Further afield the remains of an old Norwegian whaling station are found, while at Diaz Point a replica of Bartolomeu Diaz’ padrão (stone cross) can be seen. The small Lüderitz Museum on Diaz Street is another fascinating stop to learn about the town’s history and heritage.

ROBERT HARBOUR

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Zeepard Boat Trips

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Lüderitz Heritage Route

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Kelp Gull: the most common gull on Namibia’s coast nests in large numbers on Halifax, Penguin and Seal islands between November and February and is regularly seen on the beaches around Lüderitz.

Hafen

Fish Shop

Maritime Museum University

Hartlaub’s Gull: this small and boisterous gull with the red beak and red legs is very common around Lüderitz. It breeds on the nearby islands, often together with the Swift Terns.

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Cape Fur Seal: a small colony of these marine mammals can be observed on a rock next to the cross at Dias Point; larger colonies exist at Wolf Bay and Atlas Bay, about 18 km south of Lüderitz.

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African Penguin: about 800 pairs breed on Halifax Island, where they are protected from predators and human disturbance. The island is part of the Namibian Islands’ Marine Protected Area.

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Felsenkirche Goerke Haus Haus Grünewald Museum Turnhalle & Lesehalle Railway Station

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Black-backed Jackal: this elegant, dog-like carnivore is occasionally seen on the Lüderitz Peninsula, usually singly but sometimes in pairs or small groups, especially around dawn and dusk.

Brown Hyena: by and large nocturnal, this shy hyena with the long fur regularly patrols the beaches along the Namib Desert coast. Although it is primarily a scavenger, it also actively hunts Cape Fur Seals.

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Lüderitz Nest Hotel

is page ©J Kemper

Fishing Permits

Bahnh

: this strikingly beautiful bird round Lüderitz. It is often obgroups, feeding on mussels shores.

Lesser Flamingo: slightly smaller than the Greater Flamingo and with a dark beak, this flamingo is most commonly encountered at the pan on the way to Agate beach.

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of several cormorant species endangered species can often flocks or flying in long “strings”

Greater Flamingo: this charismatic bird can be seen throughout much of the year at various bays on the Lüderitz Peninsula, particularly at Second Lagoon, where it feeds on microscopic organisms.

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his small, playful dolphin only f Namibia and western South observed at Shearwater Bay, y.

To: Agate Beach

Camping Site Monument

Diaz

l tern can often be seen fishing o Bay, hovering like a butterfly g in head-first. Small numbers insula.

Shark Island

To Lüderitz Airport, Kolmanskop, Aus & Keetmanshoop B4

To Diaz Point, Grosse Bucht

Welcome to L端deritz

ATTRACTIONS Lüderitz and its surroundings boast a number of unique attractions - from bays, lagoons and unspoilt beaches such as Große Bucht, Sturmvogelbucht and Agate Beach to rare wildlife and the flora of the Succulent Karoo Biome, one of the world’s top biodiversity hotspots. Among the special plants of this area are the attractive Bushman candle with its vivid pink flowers and dwarf succulents such as the intriguing lithops. Desert Horses The unspoilt natural environment further inland is home to a herd of desert horses. About 100 km east of Lüderitz, a signpost indicates the turn-off to Garub, a maintained water point where the wild horses can be observed and photographed as they come to drink. There are several theories regarding their origin. One is that they are descendants of the horse stud of Baron von Wolf, who built Duwisib Castle 160 km northeast of Garub. Another is that they are descendants of horses left behind when the German Schutztruppe abandoned Aus during the South West African Campaign in 1915, and yet another that they are descended from some 6 000 horses belonging to South African soldiers who camped at the borehole at Garub in 1915. There was also the nearby Kubub stud where Emil Kreplin (mayor of Lüderitz from 1909–1914) bred workhorses for the mines as well as racehorses. It is thought that the Kubub horses added to the evolvement of the famous desert horses of Aus.

Kolmanskop About 10 km inland from Lüderitz, in the Tsau//Khaeb Park, are the remains of Namibia’s most famous ghost town, Kolmanskop. It was named after transport driver Johnny Coleman, who lived in the tiny settlement of Aus at the turn of the century. During a fierce sandstorm he was forced to abandon his ox wagon on the small incline from where Kolmanskop can be seen. It stood there for a while, giving rise to the name Colemanshügel, which eventually became Kolmanskop. The development of the town reached its climax in the 1920s, and in spite of, or probably because of, the isolation and bleakness of the surrounding desert, Kolmanskop developed into a lively little haven of German culture. It provided entertainment and recreation to suit the requirements of the affluent, for whom large, elegant houses were built. However, when richer diamond deposits were discovered further south, operations were moved, and today the crumbling ruins of the ghost town bear little resemblance to its former glory.

Attractions

A number of the buildings at Kolmanskop are restored and open to tourists. Permits can be obtained at the entrance gate or the tourist office in town or at Lüderitz Safaris & Tours in the town centre. Lüderitz Waterfront Development A number of exciting modern developments have taken place in the centre of Lüderitz. One of them is the Lüderitz Waterfront Development which currently includes the harbour square that hosts the annual Crayfish Festival. The harbour square consists of shops, restaurants and coffee shops, offices and flats. The Yacht Club is also at the Waterfront. The second phase of the development, currently underway, is the upgrading and renovation of the historic power station located directly on Lüderitz Bay. Future developments that will put the bay on the map include the country’s first shopping centre with sea views, luxury apartments, a four-star hotel, indoor and outdoor sports facilities, a modern satellite campus for the Polytechnic of Namibia, and Africa’s largest Maritime Museum. Maritime Museum The Maritime Museum will display Namibia’s maritime history, geology and rich marine fauna and flora, while at the same time communicating aspects of off-shore diamond mining and showing the world what the Skeleton Coast has done to ships. Cafés, restaurants, an outdoor arena, a jetty for yachts and large promenades will provide additional relaxation opportunities for visitors. The scheduled date for completion is 2017. Other interesting places to see are Diaz Point and Shark Island, for their historical appeal – and magnificent coastlines. Or take a boat cruise past Halifax Island, which boasts Namibia’s second largest African penguin colony.

Welcome to Lüderitz

activities

4x4 Camping Tours and Boat Trips Excursions into the environment vary from 4x4 camping tours to experience the natural surroundings – dunes, vast open plains, black mountains, and magnificent desert night skies – to boat trips around Lüderitz Bay and the outlying islands. Attractions en route include a colony of Cape fur seals, an abandoned whaling station, WWI entrenchments, an old foghorn and lighthouse, African penguins, Heaviside's dolphins and, in season, Humpback and Southern Right whales. Sunset cruises, deep-sea fishing, and private charters are further possibilities, as well as bird watching, whale watching and exploring the many bays and beaches. Sports The large Lüderitz second lagoon, with strong winds coming from the surrounding Namib Desert, offers windsurfers and kite surfers exciting sailing opportunities throughout the year – this is a real sailing paradise with no crowds and plenty of opportunity to test your skills 16

Welcome to Lüderitz

Festivals The annual Crayfish Festival is celebrated in April/May, a Snoek Derby normally takes place during the long weekend in May, and in September the bi-annual Lüderitz Karneval is held according to German traditions. Lüderitz Speed Challenge Windsurfing and speed sailing are two activities that draw crowds to the small town during October/November for the annual Lüderitz Speed Challenge. Excellent wind conditions and a specially made 1km long canal attract the world’s best kite surfers and windsurfers to compete for the top world ranking in speed sailing. A total of 75 national and 12 world records have been achieved since the first event in 2007 and Lüderitz has become synonymous with speed sailing records.

The Fastest & Most Extreme Speed Sailing Event on Earth Lüderitz offers the perfect conditions for speed sailing records: warm winds gain momentum on their way through the coastal hills of the Namib Desert and are accelerated to incredibly high speeds by thermal atmospheric pressure when they reach the cold waters of the Atlantic Ocean. Statistically the wind blows at 35 knots and more at least 3 times a week during the event, often reaching 40-45 knots and sometimes even 50 to 65 knots (119 km/h)!

The first annual Lüderitz Speed Challenge was held in 2007 and im mediately produced the world’s second fastest sail speed at 88.6 km/h. At the 2008 event, kite surfers officially became the fastest speed sailors in the world and with 93.5 km/h smashed the mythical 50 knots (92.6 km/h) barrier. In 2009 an astonishing world record of 98 km/h over 500 metres was achieved. After the 2009 event its founder and organiser Sebastien Cattelan – the first speed sailor Activities

Welcome to L端deritz

to exceed 50 & 55 knots respectively – decided to build a new canal alongside the existing speed strip to create shallower water and a better angle to the wind. It worked. At the 2012 event, no less than 7 windsurfers broke the 50 knot barrier and a new world windsurfing speed record of 52.05 knots was set by Antoine Albeau (France). If you are in Lüderitz during the annual speed challenge it is definitely worth your while to see these world-class speed sailors in action. www.luderitz-speed.com Visitors are welcome to the following attractions and sites: 1. Lüderitz Museum, open Monday to Friday from 15:30 to 17:00 2. Goerke Haus, open Monday to Friday from 14:00 to 16:00, Saturday & Sunday from 16:00 to 17:00 3. Felsenkirche, open Monday to Saturday Summertime: 17:00 to 18:00, Wintertime: 16:00 to 17:00 Donations are welcome 4. Shark Island Memorial Site, open daily between 8:00 and 17:00 A small entrance fee is payable.

Tours and trips: 1. Halifax Island Tours on the Zeepaard Catamaran depart daily at 8:00 from the Lüderitz Waterfront, weather permitting. 2. Kolmanskop guided tours Mondays to Saturdays at 9:30 and 11:00. Sundays and public holidays at 10:00. Unguided tours from 08:00 to 13:00. Photo shoots (sunrise to sunset) need to be pre-booked and require a permit. 3. Bogenfels 4x4 Day Tours to be booked at least 5 days in advance; permits can only be obtained by submitting a copy of the participant’s valid passport. 4. A 4x4 Lüderitz Peninsula Tour includes visits to Eberlanz Cave, natural rock pools, isolated beaches, the old whaling station, Diaz Point and WWI entrenchments. Full day or half-day tours, refreshments included. 5. Full-day 4x4 Koichab Dunes Tour, to thoroughly appreciate the unrivalled beauty of the dunes, the surrounding desert, and the Dikke Willem, Kirch and Glocken mountains. Light lunch and refreshments included. To be booked at least 24 hours in advance. 6. For an alternative type of experience contact Elements Day Spa for massages and beauty treatments, Tuesdays to Saturdays from 09:00 to 17:00.

Book now 1 & 2 Lüderitz Safaris & Tours Tel: 063 – 202719 After hours: 081 129 7236 ludsaf@africaonline.com.na 3 Coastways Tours Tel: 063 202002 Cell: 081 122 9336 lewiscwt@iway.na 4 & 5 Namib Off-Road Excursions Tel: 063 202956 Cell: 081 128 8050 ludnom@gmail.com 6 Jessica Nel Tel: 081 611 0356

Activities

Welcome to L端deritz

WILDLIFE Apart from a wide variety of sea life, the Lüderitz area is home to aquatic birds and specially adapted desert dwellers that roam the beaches. It is not unusual to see a jackal trotting along the shore, or a group of springbok close to the sea.

beaches, but also because human disturbance is so low. In order to protect the species Dr. Ingrid Wiesel initiated the Brown Hyena Research Project in 1997, which has since developed into the most consulted long-term brown hyena conservation project worldwide.

Flamingos, cormorants, seals and dolphins can be spotted in the water and seagulls frequent the lagoons in search of salty snacks, and when sailing in the bay, seals, Heaviside’s and bottlenose dolphins can be seen playing in the water. Between June and October, the cold Atlantic brims with life as humpback and southern right whales make their appearance, and sometimes even fin whales – the second largest mammal on earth at up to 27.3 metres in length and weighing nearly 74 tonnes – also stay for a few weeks.

African Penguins African penguins breed along the coasts of Namibia and South Africa – mostly on islands, where they are safe from land-based predators such as hyenas or jackals. Lüderitz boasts a colony of around 6 000 African penguins right on its doorstep, at Halifax Island.

Brown Hyenas A shy and rare species that occurs along the beaches, or on very rare occassions has been spotted in town in the early hours, is the brown hyena. This wary, large carnivore is adapted to arid conditions and survives where other carnivores can’t. Numbering less than 10 000 in total, the brown hyena is a flagship species of the Tsau//Khaeb Park where one of the few viable populations in southern Africa exists. The density of brown hyena around Lüderitz is high, mainly due to the good availability of food along the

Unfortunately, due to a number of decisive factors, including a decline in nutrition such as sardines, numbers have been dwindling at a shocking pace and the species is now listed as endangered. As a result the African Penguin Conservation Project was initiated in Lüderitz in 2000, to help improve the conservation status of African penguins in Namibia. Its activities include the rehabilitation of oiled, injured or sick penguins, the provision of nest boxes to boost breeding success, and the regular monitoring of penguin numbers on Halifax Island. Research on penguin foraging ecology, conducted in cooperation with the University of Cape Town and the Ministry of Fisheries and Marine Resources, was instrumental for the design and declaration of the Namibian Islands’ Marine Wildlife

Protected Area (NIMPA). The NIMPA covers one million hectares of sea area and includes all penguin breeding islands and key foraging areas in Namibia. Although the islands are off-limits to tourists in order to protect the sensitive breeding colonies, penguins can be easily observed from Guano Bay or on the daily Zeepaard boat tours. The African penguin project is headed by Dr. Jessica Kemper. Damara Tern The shoreline of Lüderitz is also home to the smallest breeding tern in Africa (and perhaps even in the world). The Damara tern weighs around 51g and has an average wingspan of only 17.3cm. This fast-flying tern with its shallow forked tail feeds mainly on small fish, by plunge diving into the water. Damara terns are migratory and only arrive in southern Africa between September and October. The vast majority (90%) breed in Namibia, along a coastline where the harsh Namib Desert meets the icy Benguela Current of the Atlantic Ocean. The breeding habitat of these terns varies from slack between dunes to gravel, sandy, and stony plains, and from saltpans to dried-up lagoons. The Damara tern is listed as near-threatened. During breeding the birds, their eggs and chicks are exceptionally vulnerable to predators, which include the black-backed jackal and humans in 4x4 vehicles who don’t stay on marked roads. Off-road driving is prohibited for good reason. Please let the terns breed in peace, and thank you for keeping our proud heritage alive! The Damara Tern project is headed by Dr. Justine Braby. 22

Welcome to Lüderitz

Welcome to L端deritz

CULINARY

Crayfish Lüderitz is world-famous for its Rock Lobster (locally called crayfish, or kreef in Afrikaans), reportedly ranked in the top three in the world. Lobsters are consumed in their thousands during the Crayfish Festival but can also be enjoyed throughout the year at local restaurants.

Marine aquaculture enterprises produce world renowned abalone and oysters, as well as mussels and seaweed in the coastal lagoons, while four fishing companies provide fresh fish. Local species served in Lüderitz' reputable restaurants include kingklip, hake, sole and monkfish. Restaurants There is a wide choice of eateries serving seafood. The Lüderitz Nest Hotel has two restaurants: the Penguin Restaurant and Crayfish Bar & Lounge. Another place to enjoy the local catch is Ritzi’s Restaurant at the Waterfront Harbour. Culinary alternatives range from home-baked cakes and fresh bread to prime steak and wood-fired pizza. Culinary

ACCOMMODATION

Tourists are increasingly enticed by the original and wild appeal of Lüderitz, and accommodation options provide for every taste and budget, from camping to luxury.

Hotels The four-star Lüderitz Nest Hotel (www.nesthotel.com) is located directly on Lüderitz Bay, with its own tidal beach and jetty. All rooms have sea views, and are equipped with modern amenities, including free Wi-Fi and extra-long high quality beds. A swimming pool, sauna, and children’s playground provide additional opportunity for unwinding. The Protea Hotel Seaview Zum Sperrgebiet (www.proteahotels. com) offers an indoor swimming pool and sauna. 26

Welcome to Lüderitz

The family-run Bayview Hotel (www.luderitzhotel.com) in the centre of town is within walking distance of the waterfront and other sights. Guesthouses & Self-catering: Kratzplatz Guesthouse (www.kratzplatz.info) and the popular Barrels Restaurant are housed in two historical buildings. A great place for sharing holiday stories, getting musical on the piano or guitar, and enjoying sing-a-longs in the pub.

Sandrose Guesthouse (www.haussandrose.com) is situated in a lush garden in the centre of town, while Hansa House (www.luderitznamibia. com/hansa-house.htm) is a colonial building dating back to 1909. Immerse yourself in the town’s commercial history by staying at the Krabbenhöft & Lampe Guest House (www.klguesthouse.com), where the ground floor is still used for trade. Other options in town are the Villelodge (villelodgeaccommodation. com), Catholic Church (www.rcclud.iway.na/luderitz.htm), Zum Anker Accommodation (www.zumanker-luderitz.com), and Island Cottage (www.namibweb.com/islandcottage.htm) as well as Roubaix Den (sariedr@iway.na).

Bed & Breakfast Establishments: At Kairos Cottage and coffee shop (www.kairoscottage.com), guests are promised “a lovely breakfast while being serenaded with a song or two”, served with stunning sea views. Alte Loge (www. historisches-ferienhaus-namibia.de) was built in 1909 as a safe house for Freemasons. Further options are Obelix Village (obelixvillage@iway.na) and Timo’s Lodge (www.timoslodge.com.na). Self-catering, Dormitories & Camping: Lüderitz Backpackers Lodge (www.luderitznamibia.com/ luderitz-backpackers.htm) and Element Riders (www.elementriders.com) both offer low-key accommodation in self-catering rooms, dormitories, or on camping sites. Accommodation

.. THE LÜDERITZ COMMUNITY Although small in number, the members of the Lüderitz Rotary Club actively support the local community, especially children, the disadvantaged, the elderly and vulnerable. Some of their most successful projects recently included upgrading and construction of children’s playgrounds in different neighbourhoods, the renovation and expansion of the Happy Generations Pre-Primary School, the addition of a bakery and four classrooms at Diaz Primary School, and the donation of 110 calculators to Angra Pequena Secondary School. The ongoing Wheelchair Project delivers wheelchairs to the disadvantaged, while fire brigade equipment and a fire engine have also been donated to the town through external funding sources. Contact long-standing Rotarian of the Lüderitz Rotary Club, Ulf Grünewald, at info@nesthotel.com if you want to donate or get involved in making a difference to the lives of local Buchters.

Welcome to Lüderitz

GENERAL INFORMATION

Getting to Lüderitz Although relatively far removed from other hubs of civilisation, Lüderitz is easily accessible by good roads from Windhoek, Keetmanshoop and the Fish River Canyon. TransNamib’s Starline passenger service provides a rail connection from Windhoek or Karasburg to Keetmanshoop, from where the journey continues by minibus, or rental car. The most convenient and least time consuming option is a direct flight from Windhoek international airport, either by charter plane, or on one of Air Namibia’s scheduled flights, departing four times a week. Safety, Security & General Travel Tips • Take the same precautions as you would anywhere else in the world • Keep valuable items and documents in a safe place, never leave them lying where they could attract curious eyes • Keep your vehicle & hotel room locked at all times • Never carry large amounts of cash on you and keep your money hidden in a moneybag or well secured pocket • Avoid displaying expensive or flashy jewellery • Avoid exploring alone, especially deserted or poorly lit areas at night • Adhere to speed limits and obey traffic signs • Avoid driving beyond municipal boundaries at night as this is when wild animals are at their most active and accidents are more likely to occur

• To protect sensitive environments and to avoid fines, please always stay on demarcated roads Ambulance: +264 63 202 446 • Respect local customs and Fire Brigade: +264 63 202 255 traditions Hospital: +264 63 202 446 • It is advisable to always carry your driver’s license/ID, Police: +264 63 10111 charged mobile phone, and bottled water with you • Keep our country clean – put your rubbish in the bins provided • Remember that Namibia is a desert country, use water sparingly

Emergency Contact Info

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For more information and updates on what's happening in LÜderitz visit any of the following websites www.namibiatourism.com.na | www.travelnewsnamibia.com | www.tripadvisor.com General Information