KEEPING NAMIBIAN TOURISTS SAFE Creating a Safe Environment for All Visitors
Tourism is a vital sector in Namibia’s economy, contributing significantly to GDP and providing thousands of jobs, which underscores the need to ensure tourist safety to maintain this economic lifeline. With growing attention on safety in incidents involving tourists traveling to Namibia, both local authorities and the community must prioritize the protection of visitors. Ensuring safe travel experiences not only enhances Namibia’s reputation as a welcoming destination but also fosters trust among potential tourists.
Ultimately, safeguarding tourists is crucial for sustaining Namibia’s thriving tourism industry and ensuring that it continues to benefit our society. A positive tourism experience fosters repeat visits and word-of-mouth promotion, ultimately leading to increased investments in the local hospitality and service industries. To ensure that tourists continue to travel to Namibia, it is crucial to always prioritize their safety. When travellers feel secure in their environment, they are more likely to share their positive experiences with friends and family, encouraging others to explore the beauty of Namibia.
By focusing on the well-being of tourists, we can enhance the reputation of our country on the global stage, resulting in a thriving tourism sector that benefits the entire community. Next time we encounter a tourist in Namibia, remember that their safety is not only important for their well-being but also for the reputation of our country as a travel destination.
Safety is a core value of the Namibia Tourism Board. We are actively caring for our tourists and aim for zero incidents. By ensuring a safe environment for tourists, we not only protect our country’s image but also support community development projects funded by tourism revenue. This creates a more sustainable economic future for all Namibians, making it crucial to take action and address any threats to the safety of tourists in our country.
Let us all work together toward keeping Namibia safe and welcoming for all visitors. By embodying the value of safety, we can create an exceptional experience for tourists, thereby strengthening our economy and reinforcing Namibia’s position as a premier travel destination.
Flora Quest
Corporate Communication Practitioner
Email address: flora.quest@namibiatourism.com.na
Website: www.namibiatourism.com.na
is published by Venture Media in Windhoek, Namibia www.thisisnamibia.com
Tel: +264 81 285 7450, 5 Conradie Street, Windhoek PO Box 21593, Windhoek, Namibia
EDITOR Elzanne McCulloch elzanne@venture.com.na
CONTENT MANAGER Kirsty Watermeyer kirsty@venture.com.na
PUBLIC RELATIONS Elzanne McCulloch elzanne@venture.com.na
PRODUCTION & LAYOUT Liza Lottering liza@venture.com.na
CUSTOMER SERVICE Bonn Nortjé bonn@venture.com.na
TEXT CONTRIBUTORS
Le Roux van Schalkwyk, Elzanne McCulloch, Charene Labuschagne, Kirsty Watermeyer, Theuns Laubscher, Barbara Curtis, Anja Denker, Suné van Wyk, Pompie Burger
PHOTOGRAPHERS
Le Roux van Schalkwyk, Charene Labuschagne, Kirsty Watermeyer, Theuns Laubscher, Barbara Curtis, Anja Denker, Suné van Wyk, Pompie Burger
Travel Namibia is published quarterly, distributed worldwide via Zinio digital newsstand and in physical format in southern Africa. The editorial content of TN is contributed by the Venture Media team, freelance writers and journalists. It is the sole property of the publisher and no part of the magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.
All information and travel details are correct at the time of going to press. Due to uncertain circumstances, this may have changed after the date of publication. Please check businesses' individual websites for up-to-date details.
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Summer 2024/25
Of Sun, Sea, and Sand Between Your Toes
Sitting on a stretch of soft, clean sand at Long Beach, I watch the calm Atlantic waves roll gently along the shoreline. This holiday settlement and peaceful neighbourhood sits midway between the iconic Namibian coastal town of Swakopmund and the country's main harbour town of Walvis Bay. It’s early November, and all is still quiet and serene. But come mid-December, this entire coastline – from Walvis to Henties Bay – will be buzzing with Namibians and visitors alike, flocking to the beautiful seaside to escape the interior’s scorching summer heat.
We often write about the drama of the Skeleton Coast. The narrative of a forlorn and tumultuous shoreline wreaking havoc on ships and ancient sailors is well told, and it’s a good story. But in truth, it’s only part of the tale. Yes, the Skeleton Coast, in all its rugged infamy, is a miraculous destination to explore. Its deserted beaches and historic artefacts offer a romantic and thrilling experience, yet there’s more to Namibia’s vast stretch of coastline than the mist-shrouded image of a dangerous, mysterious place spun by the tall tales of ancient mariners.
Along the more than 1,500 kilometres stretching from the Angolan to the South African border, you’ll find epic adventures, charming beach towns, pristine shores, desert wonders, and a host of activities, eateries, people, places, and experiences to enjoy. So, this summer season, we set out to bring the sun, sea, and sandy shores of Namibia to you. In these pages, you’ll discover stories of fishing where desert meets sea, exploring the southern coastal gems of Lüderitz, and roadtrip-worthy destinations along the way. We encounter tiny desert creatures while traversing dunes on fat bikes, learn about penguin conservation and maritime museums decades in the making, and venture back inland to explore the wild wonders of Etosha and revisit a few of our favourite spots.
So, if you’re wondering which sunny destination to add to your travel list to escape a cold European winter or a bustling North American holiday season, look to the southwestern African coastline. There’s always more to discover in the land of endless horizons.
Happy holiday season from another beautiful summer in southern Africa!
With love from Namibia,
Elzanne McCulloch
ON THE COVER
There are many ways to
Image: Suné van Wyk
FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @thisis_namibia
explore the Namibian desert - on foot, by car, or on a fat bike - each offering its own spectacular perspective and reward.
CONTENTS
In this issue
FRIENDS
GONE FISHIN’
p12
Fish nuggets, coffee-Cruisers and the call of the Namib
TUXEDOED TREASURES p40
A spotlight on African Penguins
THE ETOSHA PAN p50
An eagle’s eye perspective
SWAKOPMUND FAT BIKE TOURS p64
Discover the Oldest Desert in the World
BIRDING WITH POMPIE p78
Special Olympics
TAKING THE SCENIC ROUTE |
An adventure through southern Namibia
We can’t take credit for the views... They were here before we got here.
Castle since 1914. Hotel since 1994.
10 BUSH TELEGRAPH | News from the tourism industry
18 ONGAVA FOR THE PHOTOGRAPHER | The extensive wildlife found here also makes it the ideal getaway for photographers
35 GAURDIANS OF THE GREEN | Celebrating Namibia’s Tree Champions with the Annual Botanical Society Tree Awards
36 REVIVING KOLMANSKOP | The Diamond of the Desert glistens again
46 SAVOURING LÜDERITZ | A journey through Lüderitz Nest Hotel’s culinary offerings
60 CYMOT’S NEW FLAGSHIP STORE | A Monument to Legacy and Innovation
69 CORNERSTONE GUESTHOUSE | Reimagining a Swakopmund classic
70 THE STONEMEN | A journey through mystery, nature and timeless wisdom in Namibia's Kaokoland
72 OCEANS OF INSIGHT | Discovering Namibia’s first Maritime Museum in Lüderitz
77 DEBMARINE | A commitment to Environmental Stewardship and Collaborative Science
BUSH TELEGRAPH
News from the tourism industry
STRONG SIGNS OF TOURISM UPSURGE IN 2024
Namibia’s tourism sector showed positive signs in 2024, with European visitors now accounting for 70.28% of international arrivals. While the overall occupancy rate dropped to 63% from 68.9% last year, there was a month-on-month increase of 3.28% from July. The northern region achieved its highest occupancy rate of 70.42%, largely due to wedding activities, and leisure travel remains the dominant force, making up 92.91% of total room bookings.
Despite some challenges in the southern and central regions, local travel is increasing, with Namibian visitors contributing 14.91% of total occupancy. Although business and conference travel remained minor segments, the luxury tourism market is expected to stay strong, helping to buffer against currency fluctuations.
FENATA APPOINTS NEW CHAIRMAN
Ally Karaerua has been appointed as the new chairman of the Federation of Namibian Tourism Associations (FENATA). This federation serves as a unified voice for various specialised sectors within the tourism industry, including travel agencies, car rentals, tour operators, emerging tourism, tour guides, hunting and accommodation. Founded around 30 years ago in response to a call from Namibia’s then tourism minister, FENATA plays a crucial role in advocating for sustainable tourism development by lobbying with both public and private stakeholders.
Karaerua highlighted that FENATA enables member associations to tackle common issues affecting the tourism sector and to contribute to the marketing of Namibia as a premier travel destination. The federation’s main focus areas include improving accessibility, ensuring safety, promoting sustainability and addressing economic development that impacts Namibia’s landscapes and affordability. As a voluntary entity for tourism associations, FENATA aims to represent the diverse interests within Namibia’s travel and tourism industry.
SOUTHERN AFRICAN COUNTRIES LAUNCH NEW UNIVISA
Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe have introduced a new Schengen-style single visa (called Univisa) to enhance tourism by facilitating easier cross-border travel. Announced during the KAZA Heads of State Summit in Livingstone, Zambia, this decision represents a major step forward in regional cooperation and tourism development. The Univisa, already in use between Zambia and Zimbabwe, will allow travellers to enter multiple countries with one visa, encouraging longer stays and boosting tourist arrivals while promoting the conservation of Southern Africa’s unique natural heritage.
The Univisa is designed to make cross-border travel within Southern Africa more convenient for tourists. This is particularly beneficial in the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA TFCA), one of the largest protected areas in the world, which spans all five participating countries. By simplifying cross-border travel, the Univisa aims to encourage deeper engagement with the region’s rich biodiversity, ultimately supporting sustainable tourism initiatives.
NAMIBIAN MOTORBIKE TOURISM EMBRACES ENVIRONMENTAL STEWARDSHIP
Freshline Africa Moto Adventures and Untamed Adventures & Tours recently joined hands with the Tourism Supporting Conservation Trust (TOSCO) and signed a pledge to operate in ways that protect sensitive ecosystems. This move comes in response to rising concerns about the negative effects of off-road motorbiking, such as noise pollution and damage to wilderness areas, which have raised the alarm about the potential harm to endangered wildlife, including rhinos and elephants.
In an effort to promote sustainable practices, the companies are spearheading initiatives to reshape the narrative around motorbike tourism. In collaboration with the Namibia Nature Foundation and the Save the Rhino Trust, they developed the Responsible Motorbiking Pledge, which outlines essential guidelines for riders. These include avoiding sensitive areas, sticking to designated tracks and minimising noise pollution. TOSCO’s managing director, Lara Potma, commended their commitment as a groundbreaking step towards responsible motorbike tourism, expressing the hope that their actions will inspire other companies in the sector to adopt similar practices. TN
Willem Vrey
FRIENDS GONE FISHIN’
FISH NUGGETS, COFFEE-CRUISERS AND THE CALL OF THE NAMIB
On a fishing expedition to Meob Bay along Namibia’s southern coastline, Theuns Laubscher and a group of friends discovered the wonders of the vast Namib Sand Sea, a UNESCO Natural World Heritage site. Led by concession guides through the ancient sands and along the skeleton-strewn coast, the group discovered the delicate balance of catch-and-release angling, the thrill of off-road convoys, and the unfiltered camaraderie forged around campfires under an endless sky. This story is not just about fishing; it is about adventure, resilience and the quiet marvels of the Namib, and that magical place where the desert meets the sea.
There is only one word that captures the feeling leading up to a trip like this: excitement.
The build-up is exhilarating, from joining the WhatsApp group – where jokes and plans are shared as the group gradually grows – to gathering all the essentials.
Then comes the packing. At first, I thought that my three companions and I could fit all our stuff into the Fortuner. I mean, it’s just a sleeping bag and a pillow… and our fishing gear… and the beverages… and ice… and, well, extra fuel, because Puma has not yet set up shop in the middle of the Namib. Then, the camp leader informed me that everyone had to collect an ammo box full of food from him, which I planned for. But with the ammo box came 20 kilograms of potatoes and 20 litres of cooking oil – not planned for. Slowly, as everything on the packing list gathered in the garage, I realised three more heaps like this wouldn’t fit into the Fortuner, and we’d have to split up the group.
So I ended up fitting in just one friend, and to make that work, I removed the backseats. In their place went a camping fridge for refreshments within arm’s reach, a cooler just for the ice and a 40-litre water tank. In the back, we packed the bedding, snacks, a small travel bag, fishing equipment and 55 litres of fuel. From Walvis Bay to Meob Bay is about 250 kilometres, and then you turn around and head back again. However, driving through thick beach sand and the warm Namib dunes can bring the fuel economy of a 9 km/l vehicle down to around 5 km/l (if you drive a new Ford Raptor or an old Toyota 4.5 EFI Cruiser, you better plan for about 1 km/l).
On the first morning, we met at a fuel station in southern Walvis Bay about an hour before sunrise to fill up the vehicles and coffee cups. As always, there were those who felt that garage coffee wasn’t good enough and went to Slowtown, bought the good coffee only for themselves, and then arrived at the meeting point 30 minutes after we were supposed to leave, still needing to fuel up. (These types usually drive Cruisers with spacers and cannot follow the first rule, which I’ll get to in a moment.)
Photographs Francois Pretorius & Stefan du Raan
Finally, we headed out of town, each vehicle equipped with a two-way radio, over which we shared pre-planned call signs (including a reluctant new one for the coffee-Cruiser). We stopped at the southern end of the saltworks on the way to Pelican Point, where the rules were explained and the tyres deflated to a measly 0.8 bar. If you want to struggle through the sand, you stop deflating before you reach 0.8. Those who thought they knew better soon learnt the importance of this advice from the guides. I cannot remember all the rules, but rule number one stuck with me: STAY IN THE TRACKS. We aim to leave as few tracks as possible, creating a single “tweespoorpaadjie” all the way, like a centipede, no diverging. I think rule number two was something like DON’T BE DIFFICULT, BE LEKKER – I might be paraphrasing.
The radio buzzed with chatter, jokes and introductions as we drove. Our guide, PW – the concession holder – shared insights about the journey as we went along. Bringing up the rear of the convoy was a man introduced as “Muis”, the man responsible for keeping everyone in line. He proudly wears a sarong because it suits his style.
We passed Sandwich Harbour at low tide, hence the need to leave at sunrise, and then we headed into the dunes. This was when the drivers began to truly understand their vehicles, as for most, it was their first time in the mighty dunes of the Namib. PW coached us with encouragements like “gooi mielies” and “gee gas” when more horsepower was needed, and a calming “stadig” when it was time to ease off a little. One driver in a Hilux didn’t give enough “mielies”, and although stopping halfway up the dune was not a problem, he nearly turned too sharply on the descent, risking a rollover. Thankfully, he saved it, but it was a timely reminder that anything can happen out here.
We emerged from the dunes onto the beach, right in front of one of the desert’s gems: the Shawnee shipwreck, an insurance scam gone wrong in 1976. We stopped here briefly to stretch our legs and snap some photos, preparing for a fast, long drive along the beach. This was where the coffee-Cruiser with its spacers proved incapable – or unwilling – to stay in the tracks, weaving left and right, and sometimes veering completely off course. But, not to worry, at the next stop they received their “discipline” in the form of a short sip from a big, ice-cold, rectangular green bottle. It didn’t help that everyone else seemed excited about the prospect of receiving the same form of “discipline”, but at least the message was clear.
Our next stop was unforgettable: a massive 310-foot, 2,200ton ship stranded in the desert some 400 metres away from the coastline - the Eduard Bohlen wreck. It’s incredible to see a behemoth like that swallowed by sand – a testament to the constant shifting of the Namib’s dunes. Just imagine how the coastline must have changed over the decades to allow for such a phenomenon.
Another long stretch down the beach, and the new Raptor was finally finding its footing – and the driver, the gas pedal. Halfway through, we had the first fuel stop for the thirsty Raptor. When men travel together, they inevitably talk about
their own and each other’s vehicles. It’s part of the fun – the horsepowers, the torques, the fuel economy… That’s when I realised my pockets aren’t deep enough to keep a beauty like that running, so I’ll happily stick to my D4D Fortuner. We slowed down at Meob Bay, where a restored wooden hut still stands – the transport manager’s hut. Nearby, two surfboats lay as relics. It is heartening to see the effort put into preserving a deserted area like this, keeping alive the rich heritage of this beautiful country. This place marks the early
Shawnee shipwreck
The Eduard Bohlen wreck
days of industries like whaling and diamond mining, the start of Namibia’s growth that, over time, built the infrastructure we love and depend on today.
Just south of Meob lies the “whale cemetery”, where thousands of bones are strewn across the barren landscape. If you don’t stop to look closely, you might mistake them for pieces of driftwood, baked white and dry by the sun, salt and wind.
A little further south, we arrived at NAMAB Camp, and we couldn’t believe our eyes. Ten brand-new wooden chalets on stilts, each with warm water and electricity, comfortable enough to bring the whole family along. PW and his team drove every single shingle and nail here, hauling it all one trailer load at a time across the same stretch of desolate desert we had just travelled. Yes, with a trailer, through the same sand where most of us normies get stuck because we don’t know any better.
We unloaded everything and prepared for the main event: fishing. The rules were simple. All fish were catch-andrelease, and you don’t touch the fish. The hooked fish – mostly steenbras – were guided in shallow water into a canvas hammock, where we had a split second for a photo before releasing it. This method preserves the protective slime layer on the fish’s scales, which guards against bacterial infection. Breaking that layer by handling can quickly lead to infections that might kill the fish. Some fish of the correct size were kept by the catering team for supper, but no fish were allowed out of the park.
The fresh fish kept us well-fed and fuelled for our time there. On the first day, the cooks prepared the steenbras as deepfried crumbed fish nuggets. We couldn’t get enough. That first evening, there weren’t enough nuggets to go around, so on the second evening, they made twice as many, and it still wasn’t enough. Thankfully, there was also fish and chips to satisfy
the cravings for fresh fish. Hopefully, some of those potatoes that hitched a ride with me found their way into the mix so I wouldn’t have to haul them back.
We ate like kings. On the third and fourth evenings, heaps of delicious steenbras and kabeljou sashimi were set out as hors d’oeuvres. Yet we still clamoured for those fish nuggets. Muis prepared an unrivalled lamb spit, and as we gathered around the fire under an unadulterated sky, the nights stretched on into the darkness – timeless and vast.
Breakfast was a simple but satisfying spread of coffee, rusks, yoghurt, fresh fruit, eggs and bacon. Lunch on the beach where we fished included a magnificent cheese platter one day and a lamb and pork braai the next.
The fishing expeditions were outstanding. PW would stop at a spot, and within five minutes, the first fish was hooked, with many more to follow. If one area ran dry, we would move a bit north or south, and soon the reels were spinning again. It felt like the stories of old when fish were plentiful on Namibia’s west coast.
When the last day came, we packed up and started the convoy back, PW leading and Muis making sure the coffee-Cruiser behaved at the rear. We all stopped together one last time in Walvis Bay, gathered as a group for the final time until next year. New faces will join, some familiar ones might not return. Who will it be? What new stories will unfold around the fire? And will there be enough fish nuggets?
The world out there is still wild and untouched. The jackals don’t know they’re supposed to fear humans. It’s an experience like no other. Free from cellphone reception, we get a chance to reconnect – whether with those around us or with ourselves. In these sands, you might just lose yourself, but in doing so, you might also find yourself again. TN
Ongava for the photographer
Text & Photographs Le Roux van Schalkwyk
Ongava is one of Namibia’s premier retreats, seamlessly blending luxury and comfort with spectacular wildlife sightings set against the natural beauty of the reserve. Situated adjacent to Etosha National Park, the extensive wildlife found here also makes it the ideal getaway for photographers. With animals ranging from rhinos, elephants and lions to smaller game and a colourful assortment of birdlife, it offers both seasoned camera enthusiasts and casual smartphone users the opportunity to capture stunning shots of Africa’s wildlife against rugged landscapes.
Getting the best shots always requires some patience and luck. However, going on a guided drive increases your chances of capturing breathtaking images of lions at a kill or an elephant in the warm, red glow of the setting sun. Expert guides not only ensure that they get you the best angle for your photos, but they also share their in-depth knowledge about animal behaviour. This insight is invaluable for photographers who seek to capture the essence of wildlife in their natural habitat. For smartphone users there is no need to worry about not having a zoom lens – Ongava’s guides are known for their skill in getting visitors close enough to snap crisp, intimate images of the animals without causing them stress and while maintaining guest safety at all times.
Ongava Lodge and Anderssons at Ongava have their own viewing hides set close to the waterholes, which allow guests to observe and photograph wildlife up close without disturbing the animals. These sheltered vantage points let you capture nature’s most magnificent moments or sit in awe as you watch an elephant slurping up water with its trunk, lifting it to its mouth and messily gulping it down, or guinea fowls running about and kicking up dust silhouetted against the rising sun. The hides offer photographers the chance to get a different angle than from a guide vehicle and allow more abstract photos due to the proximity to the animals.
PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS FOR ONGAVA :
• Always keep your camera or smartphone ready: Animals are unpredictable, and you might miss the shot of a lifetime while you are still scrambling to get your gear out of a bag.
• Get up early: Watching the sunrise from a hide and experiencing how the bush comes alive with sound and movement is magical. Waterholes can be a hive of activity early in the morning and apart from an array of birdlife, you might spot one of the shyer animals such as a hyena coming in for a quick drink of water before it disappears back into the bush.
• Use natural light: Take advantage of early mornings and late afternoons when the lighting is softer. If you are not on a game drive during these times, grab a book and a coffee and spend time in a hide. Not only will you enjoy the serenity of the bush, but you will see plenty of wildlife at the waterhole.
• Experiment with angles and perspectives: From the hides, try low-angle shots that highlight certain aspects of the animals against the landscape. On game drives, ask your guide to help you find creative angles.
• Practise patience: One of the joys of staying at Ongava is slowing down and immersing yourself in the wild. Sometimes the best photographs come from simply waiting and watching as nature unfolds before you.
But always remember the most important photography tip: after taking photos, put your camera down and allow yourself to just be in the moment.
Whether you bring your professional camera or shoot with your phone, Ongava and its wildlife will provide you with the opportunity to take photos and leave with visible memories of your Namibian experience. But always remember the most important photography tip: after taking photos, put your camera down and allow yourself to just be in the moment. Feel the sun on your skin, listen to the sound of the birds and insects, and fully take in what your eyes are seeing. Photos can never tell the full story, but moments like these will remain with you forever. TN
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Taking the
scenic route
An adventure through southern Namibia from sea to sand
What touches your soul? What intrigues you? What allows you to unleash the spirit of adventure? Taking a moment to savour the things you love is one of the greatest pleasures of a self-drive exploration adventure. Every road you travel is filled with surprises – captivating people, fascinating stories and intriguing places just waiting to be discovered. This was Kirsty Watermeyer's experience while travelling through southern Namibia.
Beginning on the B4, a road that stretches westward from Keetmanshoop to Lüderitz, you witness a captivating transformation of the landscapes along the way. As you travel beyond the grassy plains into the mesmerising expanse of the Namib Desert, the changing sands sketch vast artworks across the horizon. Here, roads weave through extraordinary scenery, spellbinding colours and expansive stretches that offer a welcome, underrated space to breathe.
As you enter the Lüderitz district, the land opens in colours of peach and purple sands that wash up against a backdrop of black mountains. You can feel that this land has witnessed its share of history; the remnants carrying both weight and wisdom.
Driving through Aus on the way to Lüderitz reveals an exquisite stretch of road. I find myself wondering what the first humans must have thought upon arriving in this breathtaking landscape. Today, the landscape resembles a watercolour painting, with hazy light illuminating valleys of varying sand colours and pointed outcrops of dark stone. It is picturesque in every direction.
STOPOVER IN AUS: A GLIMPSE INTO NAMIBIA’S PAST
In Namibia’s southern desert, the small town of Aus is rich in history. Its name is believed to originate from the Khoikhoi word for “a place of snakes”. It is unclear why this name was given, because while there are some snakes in the area (like in most parts of Namibia), abundant populations are not typically found here.
During World War I, Aus served as a prisoner-of-war (POW) camp for over 1,500 German soldiers who surrendered to South African forces, marking the final chapter of German colonial rule in Namibia.
A visit to the Aus-Commonwealth Cemetery is an intriguing one, honouring those who perished during the 1918 Spanish flu pandemic. As we know too well from recent events, the illness does not discriminate – here, you will find prisoners and guards buried side by side. Interestingly, not all graves in the cemetery are linked to the POW camp, as some belong to soldiers who died in skirmishes in the area during 1915. While there, look out for the grave of Mary Ann “Breeza” Nelson, a dedicated nurse who lost her life while aiding others and was buried with military honours.
In the 1950s, Aus thrived due to the booming Karakul sheep industry. However, by the 1980s, the industry collapsed, and when the diamond trade moved south, many locals and businesses left. Today, tourism is slowly revitalising the economy.
Aus is known for its wild horses that roam the surrounding areas. Believed to be descendants of those from the German Schutztruppe, the barren plains of Garub, just 20 km from Aus, provide an excellent vantage point to observe these unfenced, unbridled horses living a life of ultimate freedom in the vast desert environment.
Adventures in Lüderitz
THE RISE AND FALL OF FORTUNES AND TIDES
It has been a while since I last set foot in Lüderitz, and this quaint Namibian coastal town has seen considerable development since my previous visit. However, it still retains its unique charm, friendly inhabitants and remarkable access to the ocean.
Visiting the town is like stepping into the pages of a history book. A wealth of heritage buildings dots the town, 191 of which are of historical significance according to a survey done in 1984. A pro tip is to look out for the blue and white enamel street numbers, which is a quick way to identify heritage buildings.
Lüderitz has witnessed many fortune seekers come and go over the years, with stories that have shaped the town as much as the sea and desert dunes that surround it. Its fate has always been closely tied to the treasures mined on land and in the sea here.
Here, history is marked by rises and falls, much like the rise and fall of the tides. There was the guano rush of 1842, a time when
murder was committed over harvesting rights. Then there was the diamond rush when the first diamond was found in 1908, which preceded a collapse of the local economy when diamond mining shifted further south in 1928. Now, with the recent announcement of oil found offshore, there is once again renewed interest in the town, and many a modern-day “gold-rusher” is looking to make a fortune once more.
Interestingly, modern amenities like barista-style coffee shops are already emerging, signalling a town on the brink of revival. New restaurants and a renewed focus on tourism offerings can be seen wherever you look.
Still, perhaps my favourite aspect of Lüderitz is its proximity to the ocean. We stayed at the Lüderitz Nest Hotel, which has undergone a major revamp since I last visited. Beyond the luxurious comforts, the sound of the ocean crashing against the shore while you sleep is an undervalued treasure that is hard to find.
It is rare, monumental and spectacular; a kind of soul therapy that can easily be labelled as priceless.
SOLITUDE IS THE MODERN LUXURY
Located just 8 km north of Lüderitz, Agate Beach is easily accessible and comes highly recommended by the locals. This stunning stretch of sandy shore is nestled in a bay surrounded by sweeping desert dunes, with Seal Island just offshore. The water is calm, making it an ideal spot for long, leisurely walks along the shoreline. Many visitors come here to hunt for the famous agate stones, which means that if you come across other people, they will likely have their eyes glued to the ground, searching for these semiprecious gems. It is a pity, because the surrounding view is just as captivating.
On the way to Agate Beach, you will pass by a salt pan that attracts a vibrant community of greater and lesser flamingos, gathering there in colourful camaraderie.
The highlight for me was the solitude of this beach, with only the sound of waves crashing rhythmically on the shore creating a noisy quiet. Nature blocks out everything but the sound of itself. Turquoise waters and desolate dune sands all around create a stark contrast of colours. Walking on the beach, I am the only living being far and wide, except for the seagulls. There are no footprints in the sand. It is rare, monumental and spectacular; a kind of soul therapy that can easily be labelled as priceless.
CRUISING THE COAST
A must-do activity in Lüderitz is a boat trip around the bay to Halifax Island, home to the endangered African Penguin. We set off from Robert Harbour aboard the Zeepaard on a crisp morning, bundled up in extra jackets, as advised by seasoned travellers. Our captain, Heiko Metzger, greets us warmly and provides a brief safety overview before we embark.
As we pull away from the harbour, the stunning view of Shark Island comes into focus, and Heiko points out the recently erected memorial commemorating the genocide that took place there. Once out at sea, the strong Atlantic winds pick up, and soon we pass Shearwater Bay, with the Lüderitz lighthouse becoming visible.
Heiko shares intriguing tales of the lighthouse keepers’ houses, now abandoned and weathered by time. Each structure stands as a poignant reminder of how this part of Namibia wears its history like emblems –beautiful scars that narrate the stories of its past.
Navigating around Dias Point, the waves roar as our catamaran battles the powerful sea to move us forward. After a swift 45-minute cruise, we arrive at Halifax Island, eager to encounter its charming inhabitants. Heiko holds the boat close to shore, giving us time to observe the penguins in their natural habitat while sharing captivating stories about the area’s rich history. With years of experience at sea, he answers every question from our group with fascinating detail.
This moment on the shoreline of Halifax Island is deeply affecting. As we bob along in the ocean, we watch these delightful creatures and realise that they could soon be gone forever. The African Penguin population has dwindled dramatically, and experts predict they may face extinction within the next decade. The gravity of this reality truly deepens one’s appreciation for the experience of seeing them in their natural habitat.
On our way back to the harbour, our group is quieter, deep in thought about what we have just witnessed... A mood only lifted by dolphins jumping in the wake of the boat! What a treat to see these two Heaviside’s dolphins, which are only found in a limited section of the African coastal waters. Their playful nature lifts the fog, reminding us that the beauty of Namibian wildlife is not limited to land alone, and we should be equally active in protecting the future of our marine life.
A HISTORY ETCHED IN STONE
An often-recommended activity to do in Lüderitz is a drive to Dias Point, where history and nature collide. In 1488, Bartolomeu Dias, the intrepid Portuguese explorer, sailed into what we now know as Lüderitz Bay on his way back from a groundbreaking voyage around the Cape of Good Hope. To mark his visit, he placed an engraved stone and a cross on a rocky outcrop, standing defiantly against the gale-force winds and crashing surf.
The winds here can be fierce, and those who make the trek up the rocks to visit the landmark will surely return windswept and splashed with salty ocean spray, a reminder of nature’s raw power.
Do not be lured into thinking the fun is only at Dias Point, because the journey there is every bit as engaging.
Do not be lured into thinking the fun is only at Dias Point, because the journey there is every bit as engaging. The Lüderitz area boasts the oldest rocks along the Namibian coast, with the Namaqua Metamorphic Complex dating back approximately 1,200 million years. Today, these ancient formations include coarse-grained metamorphic rock that consists of layers of different minerals, which originated from sediments deposited in a prehistoric sea that once lay between land masses before merging to form the Gondwana supercontinent. Each rock formation offers a glimpse into the ancient processes that have shaped this rugged landscape – distinctive shapes revealing a fascinating history etched in stone.
Driving to the desert along the D707
Leaving Lüderitz is a bittersweet experience, tinged with the thrill of the journey ahead. We find ourselves back on the B4, heading towards Aus, but just past the town, we veer off to explore the scenic route to Sossusvlei. This detour promises to unveil yet another breathtaking chapter of Namibia’s stunning landscapes, another epic route of endless horizons.
The real treat is the D707, where the red dunes of the Namib roll to your left and the Tiras Mountains tower to your right. This is the route via Betta that will get you to the desert. As we drive through this exquisite land, I find myself gasping regularly at the unfurling vista around each bend. The sand is the colour of a ripened peach sprinkled on black mountain outcrops.
In certain stretches, the road becomes slippery as we traverse thick desert sand, while in others, it shifts to pure gravel. It is essential to brush up on your sand driving skills before embarking on this route, as the varied terrain can be challenging but rewarding.
We are travelling to Kulala Desert Lodge, situated on the edge of the Namib Desert. With stunning surroundings and luxurious accommodations, this is the ultimate gateway to Sossusvlei. After a few days of enjoying the majestic desert, we will return to the capital city, Windhoek, using only gravel roads to get there.
Gravel roads are the unsung heroes of adventure travel; the paths that make one slow down. Inviting exploration and curiosity, the slower pace fosters a deeper appreciation for the journey. In a world that constantly pushes us to speed up, gravel roads encourage us to embrace a more relaxed pace, and that is why I love gravel roads.
Leaving the iconic dunes of Sossusvlei behind, the journey takes us through the captivating and ever-changing rugged mountains of the Central Highlands of Namibia. Taking the C26, we are surprised to see that many travellers had the same idea that we did.
Remember to go slow on gravel roads, because the wildlife has right of way. We had the treat of seeing a herd of kudu cross the road, ever watchful and suspicious of us, until they decided that we were indeed waiting for them to cross first. These graceful antelopes are incredibly alert, which adds to the thrill of the encounter. If they sense danger, they stand still, ears perked, before bounding away with surprising speed and agility.
There are many reasons to take the scenic route and visit the south of Namibia, for example the warmth of the people and the endless possibilities to explore. For me, it is all this and the breathtaking transformation of landscapes that truly captivate my heart. From the sweeping sand dunes to expansive plains and rugged mountains, every turn reveals a new spectacle of nature. This is an enchanting region that leaves an indelible mark, reminding us of the beauty and resilience of nature and the life that unfolds within it. TN
NAMIBIA DISCOVER
15.
16. Sesriem Campsite
17. Naukluft Camp
18. Hardap Resort
19. Duwisib Castle
20. Shark Island Resort 21. Fish River Canyon & Hobas Camp
22. /Ai-/Ais Hotsprings Spa 23. Mile 72 24. Mile 108
25. Jakkalsputz
Popa Falls Resort
Onkoshi Resort
Namutoni Resort
Halali Resort
Okaukuejo Resort
Olifantsrus Camp
Dolomite Resort
Terrace Bay
Torra Bay
Khorixas Camp
Waterberg Resort
Gross-Barmen Resort
Mile 4 Campsite
14. Sun Karros Daan Viljoen
Sossus Dune Lodge
FAST FACTS ON NAMIBIA
824,268 km²
INDEPENDENCE:
21 March 1990
CURRENT PRESIDENT: Nangolo Mbumba
Multiparty parliament
Democratic constitution Division of power between executive, legislature and judiciary
Secular state
Christian freedom of religion
SURFACE AREA: Windhoek CAPITAL: 90%
MAIN PRIVATE SECTORS: Mining, Manufacturing, Fishing and Agriculture 46%
BIGGEST EMPLOYER: Agriculture
FASTEST-GROWING SECTOR: Information Communication Industry
Diamonds, uranium, copper, lead, zinc, magnesium, cadmium, arsenic, pyrites, silver, gold, lithium minerals, dimension stones (granite, marble, blue sodalite) and many semiprecious stones
CURRENCY:
The
and on par
Foreign currency, international Visa, MasterCard, American Express and Diners Club credit cards are accepted.
TAX AND CUSTOMS
All goods and services are priced to include value-added tax of 15%. Visitors may reclaim VAT.
ENQUIRIES: Namibia Revenue Agency (NamRA) Tel (+264) 61 209 2259 in Windhoek
Public transport is NOT available to all tourist destinations in Namibia.
There are bus services from Windhoek to Swakopmund as well as Cape Town/Johannesburg/Vic Falls.
Namibia’s main railway line runs from the South African border, connecting Windhoek to Swakopmund in the west and Tsumeb in the north.
There is an extensive network of international and regional flights from Windhoek and domestic charters to all destinations.
NATURE RESERVES: of surface area
ROADS:
HIGHEST MOUNTAIN: Brandberg
OTHER PROMINENT MOUNTAINS: vegetation zones
Spitzkoppe, Moltkeblick, Gamsberg
PERENNIAL RIVERS: Orange, Kunene, Okavango, Zambezi and Kwando/Linyanti/Chobe
EPHEMERAL RIVERS: Numerous, including Fish, Kuiseb, Swakop and Ugab
FLORA
20% 14 400 680
species of trees
ENDEMIC plant species
120+
species of lichen
LIVING FOSSIL PLANT: Welwitschia mirabilis
BIG GAME:
Elephant, lion, rhino, buffalo, cheetah, leopard, giraffe
20 antelope species
250 mammal species (14 endemic)
256 699
50 reptile species
bird species
ENDEMIC BIRDS including Herero Chat, Rockrunner, Damara Tern, Monteiro’s Hornbill and Dune Lark frog species
WATER
Most tap water is purified and safe to drink.
Visitors should exercise caution in rural areas. GMT + 2 hours
ELECTRICITY
220 volts AC, 50hz, with outlets for round three-pin type plugs
HARBOURS: Walvis Bay, Lüderitz
MAIN AIRPORTS: Hosea Kutako International Airport, Eros Airport RAIL NETWORK:
6.2 telephone lines per 100 inhabitants
MOBILE COMMUNICATION SYSTEM:
Direct-dialling facilities to 221 countries
GSM agreements with 150 countries / 80 networks
0.4182 medical doctor per 1,000 people privately run hospitals in Windhoek with intensive-care units
4
Medical practitioners (world standard) 24-hour medical emergency services
3.1 million DENSITY: 3.8
461 000 inhabitants in Windhoek (15% of
EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS: over 1,900 schools, various vocational and tertiary institutions
FOREIGN
More than 50 countries have Namibian consular or embassy representation in Windhoek.
Namibia Dollar (N$) is fixed to
with the SA Rand. The South African Rand is also legal tender.
GUARDIANS OF THE GREEN
Celebrating Namibia’s Tree Champions with the Annual Botanical Society Tree Awards
Text
&
Photographs Barbara Curtis
In order to promote awareness of trees in Namibia, Luise Hoffmann, chair of the Botanical Society of Namibia (Botsoc) at the time, initiated an annual Tree Award in 2007. The aim of the award is to recognise individuals, companies and organisations that have made a special effort to save and protect Namibia’s indigenous trees or to plant trees and create awareness about Namibia's indigenous flora. Each year, we call for nominations from the public for worthy recipients. People from all over Namibia are encouraged to nominate deserving candidates. The committee assesses each nomination, and awards are presented at a ceremony held at the National Botanical Research Institute. This event commemorates National Arbor Day, which takes place on the second Friday of October.
This is not a competition – there are no first prizes. Everyone who cares about trees is a winner, but only three Tree Awards are allocated annually. Awards are issued to people who have saved indigenous trees from the axe and bulldozer, or planted a number of indigenous trees and successfully nurtured them for at least three years. In addition, we issue Certificates of Recognition to people who do not quite qualify for an Award but have contributed to the conservation of Namibia’s trees. The purpose of the awards is to make people aware of the value of indigenous trees, to prevent them from indiscriminately chopping down trees and to discourage them from planting aliens that do not belong here. We have a wealth of indigenous trees in our country.
Each awardee receives a framed certificate from Botsoc and an indigenous sapling suitable to their area. Trees are kindly sponsored by Namib Trees CC. Over the past 17 years we have issued 69 awards.
2024’s Tree Awards went to Sally Harper and Kai Sturm. Sally, for saving and nurturing young camel thorns (Acacia erioloba) damaged by builders and bulldozers, and for making the residents and management of Omeya Golf Estate aware of
the importance of young camel thorn trees. Kai, for planting about 60 individuals of 22 indigenous tree species from all over Namibia at his family’s Namib Naukluft Lodge. A Certificate of Recognition went to the Rust family of Erongo Private Reserve for accepting, replanting and nurturing 81 confiscated, poached elephant’s foot (Adenia pechuelii). As readers may be aware, plant poaching is becoming an enormous problem in Namibia and South Africa, with hundreds of rare and protected plants being smuggled out of the country. Although the authorities are really on the ball, and many have been prevented from leaving the country, finding suitable sites to relocate them is a significant problem. They are mostly specialised to specific habitats, and sadly many are so badly damaged when removed from the wild that they cannot be rescued.
This year, we instituted a new category: Certificate of Commendation. This is to acknowledge people who have planted or saved trees that are not indigenous to Namibia but are, nevertheless, valuable trees. One went to Kofi Asrevi of Dawid Bezuidenhout High School for planting guava trees and one indigenous tree at the school six years ago. Another went to Ester Haikola-Sakaria of Wakapinya Environmental Education for promoting environmental sustainability through education and community engagement and for planting more than 200 trees; unfortunately, all exotic fruit trees.
Previous awards have gone to numerous people for saving large trees during construction, and for planting and nurturing indigenous seedlings or creating indigenous gardens, as well as for raising awareness about our native trees. The most ingenious use of a lovely old tree was the construction of a coffee shop around a camel thorn tree. To learn more about the awards and who has received them, visit the Botsoc website at https://botsoc.org. na/whats-on/annual-tree-awards. TN
The Diamond of the Desert glistens again
Reviving Kolmanskop
Text & Photographs Charene Labuschagne
The creak of near-century-old wood floors gives way, one careful foot in front of the other. By impulse, voices are brought to a whisper. A relentless wind sandblasts what is left of the windows as another grain of sand finds its way to the corner of an abandoned house, joining the dune that occupies an old living room. Between silent observation and the occasional outburst of awe, the sounds of these haunted, empty halls are only a whistle formed by the wind. Or is it a ghost?
Kolmanskop, the old diamond mining town on the outskirts of Lüderitz, needs little introduction. Between hosting flocks of tourists, and appearing in movies, documentaries and album covers, the ghost town’s reputation precedes it. Like diamonds that dim over time with daily wear can be polished back to brilliance, Kolmanskop has seen a
renaissance. The photographic masterpiece and eerily historic complex may have plateaued in the years passed, but a brand new facet has brought back Kolmanskop’s glamour. Now she glistens again.
The old residence of August Stauch - the prospector under whom Zacharias Lewala found the first diamond - has been cosmetically renovated and now houses the Kolmanskop Boutique. Just down the lane, the old soda factory has been revived into an Ilford Galerie, one of only three worldwide. The allure of this desolate town between the dunes is engrained in the gradual decay of its buildings and how nature reclaims over time. In this spirit, the Kolmanskop Boutique and Ilford Galerie maintain a distinctly rustic feel. Renovations were limited to only the necessary, like replacing windows and repairing the roof. For the rest, chipped paint was left on the walls and the floorboards creak all the same so that even in a boutique and photo gallery, the essence of Kolmanskop shines through.
Ghost Town Tours, under the entrepreneurial and pioneering guidance of Cicely Burgess, earned the concession for Kolmanskop in 2022. The first order of business was renovating the casino, turnhalle, and museum to their former glory, including restoring the original paint decals on the walls. The old diamond room, closed for many years, has reopened and stocks Namibian diamonds mined in the Sperrgebiet. In red-velvet-lined display cases, the splintered sparkle of diamonds in the late morning sun will leave visitors starry-eyed. With an official GIA Diamond Origin Report, what better place to buy a Namibian diamond than at the birthplace of the diamond industry?
While the main building features a curio shop for those classic African souvenirs loved by many, the Kolmanskop Boutique is a curated collection of exclusively Namibian-crafted products. Leather bags, wallets, and shoes expertly manufactured by Leon Engelbrecht Design have pride of place on a decommissioned door-turned-table, some of which include gold embossed Kolmanskop Boutique customisation. Indigenous Namibian flora, including the iconic quiver and camelthorn trees, is showcased in Emssence's hand-made loungewear, scarves, table linen, and body products. Crafted from sustainably sourced cotton and linen material, the timeless designs of .about clothing include men's button-up shirts, easy ladies' dresses and tailored trousers. From the collection of jewellery wizard Elze Eigelaar, some of the country’s most iconic birds are immortalised in sterling silver necklace pendants and other authentically Namibian pieces. The boutique is arguably the first of its kind in Namibia, focussed on shining a spotlight on locally crafted items that transcend the curio classification.
Commanding four large rooms, the Ilford Galerie showcases the very best Namibian landscape, wildlife, and Kolmanskop photography. Ilford is synonymous with professional photo paper as one of the oldest photographic brands in the industry. The photographic works of Alexander Heinrichs, Jandre Germishuizen, Michael Poliza and Wim van den Heever are exhibited at Kolmanskop and undoubtedly inspire awe in all who stroll through the space. Even in the Black and White room, which features emotive, high contrast, monochrome photography, the images truly bounce off the walls, a testament to the power of Ilford paper and Namibia’s photographic allure.
As a new era for Kolmanskop dawns, there has never been a better time to uncover the secrets of this weird and wonderful place.
Beyond these new and improved visual and shopping spaces, Kolmanskop welcomes a new approach to touring the historic town. One-hour guided tours depart from the coffee shop daily at 9:30 and 11:00, but audio tours can be purchased and downloaded from the Voice Map app for the more leisurely and curious visitor. This modern approach to exploring Kolmanskop means that no tidbit of fascinating information goes missing in the excitement of a tour. However, it is still highly recommended that you remove your headphones and listen to the ghosts whistling now and again.
As a new era for Kolmanskop dawns, there has never been a better time to uncover the secrets of this weird and wonderful place. With Ghost Town Tours at the helm, there are plenty more special experiences on the horizon, making this surreal town in the desert a destination to return to time and time again. And as the sands of time fill every corner and find resting place on windowsills, exploring the weatherbeaten and forlorn ghost town beacons the question: how long till the desert claims back everything, and Kolmanskop becomes a fossil? TN
trea sures TUXEDOED
A spotlight on African Penguins
Text & Photographs Kirsty Watermeyer
There is a crisis unfolding in Namibian waters. The quintessentially cute African Penguin is facing imminent threat of extinction. This matters, not only because these adorable black and white waddling creatures are an emblem of African waters, but also because they fulfil a role in the ecosystem. Like with a Jenga tower, removing blocks risks the stability of the entire structure.
It is a clear and chilly morning as we set off on the Zeepaard, a catamaran that – depending on the weather – departs daily from Robert Harbour in Lüderitz. Our group of intrepid travellers has embarked on this voyage to Halifax Island with the promise of seeing African Penguins in their natural habitat. This is not a Netflix show where penguins waddle through streets in a South African coastal town, nesting in people’s gardens and attracting tourists to witness the encroachment of humans on wildlife. No, what we are about to see is wild species undisturbed. Or are we?
The day before our boat trip to Halifax Island, I met with Ukarapo Mungunda, the coordinator at NAMCOB (Namibian Foundation for the Conservation of Seabirds), and Natanael Hangula, a seabird ranger, who are working to protect seabirds along the Namibian coast, especially the African Penguin.
Ukarapo explains that, as of October, the African Penguin has been uplisted to critically endangered status, reinforcing the necessity for immediate action. “As top predators, penguins play a crucial role in the marine ecosystem, primarily feeding on fish. Their presence is essential. Removing them from the food chain can create a ripple effect throughout the
ecosystem. They are integral to the balance of marine life,” she adds.
The establishment of NAMCOB is part of the NIMPA+ project, which focuses on managing the Namibian Islands’ Marine Protected Area (NIMPA), centred in Lüderitz, with support from implementing partners like the Namibia Nature Foundation and Blue Marine Foundation. Ukarapo continues, “Stretching 400 kilometres long and 30 kilometres wide, this marine protected area prohibits fishing, ensuring a safe habitat for its marine life. Within our exclusive economic zone, we are concentrating on four islands: Halifax, Mercury, Ichaboe and Possession. These islands are home to a small colony of penguins, which has drastically declined from about 5,500 pairs to just 1,000 pairs in recent years. This alarming drop underscores the urgent need for intervention.”
African Penguin populations have declined by more than 60% since the early 1980s. Halifax Island, a small rocky island about 200 metres from the mainland near Lüderitz, is the third most important breeding site for African Penguins in Namibia.
NAMCOB is the counterpart to SANCCOB (Southern African Foundation for the Conservation of Coastal Birds). The goal of NAMCOB is to monitor and manage these islands more effectively. “By placing rangers on the islands, we aim to better understand the challenges these penguins face, including climate change and overfishing,” says Ukarapo.
BACK ON THE BOAT
Historically, the islands off the coast of Namibia served as safe havens for these penguins, with visitors often describing them as standing shoulder to shoulder across the landscape. According to the captain of our boat, Heiko Metzger, the ecological imbalance started with the historical extraction of guano from these islands, which continued until the early 1990s, when accumulated deposits of seabird guano were stripped from many Southern African islands. At Ichaboe Island sporadic guano extraction persisted until 2016. This extraction displaced seabirds, reducing breeding success. It also created hollows on some islands, allowing rain to accumulate, which on occasion flooded nests.
When we arrive at Halifax Island, a cloud of gloom descends over our boat. We have seen the photos decorating the walls inside –images from years past, library archive footage of what was once a sight to behold. Now, this rocky island hosts only small patches of African Penguins. Scattered groups barely cover any of the surface area. One could hardly imagine a scene so different from the pictures of yesteryear. Nothing is as chilling as witnessing firsthand how significantly their numbers have declined.
“If penguins were to become extinct, it would have significant consequences not just for their predators but also for the species they prey upon. The interconnectedness of the food
web means that the loss of one species can lead to unforeseen impacts on others, highlighting the importance of preserving these remarkable birds,” says Ukarapo.
As Natanael puts it, “All living organisms have a right to thrive, including the penguins. Even if we don’t directly benefit from them in tangible ways, like wildlife that offers trophies or meat, we should still give them a chance to flourish. Their presence contributes to the ecosystem’s health and biodiversity, which ultimately benefits us all.”
Natanael is a passionate birder who has participated in many biannual wetland birding counts. He explains that penguins are a special species: “What fascinates me most about penguins is their incredible resilience and tolerance for injury. It’s astonishing to see a penguin with a deep wound still moving as if nothing is wrong. They often hide their pain well, displaying a remarkable will to survive and fight back when threatened.”
Ukarapo reiterates this point: “Those little guys are surprisingly tough! They might look delicate, but they’re resilient fighters. Plus, who doesn’t love their little waddle?”
Surprisingly, as Natanael explains, while penguins are incredibly resilient, they are also exceptionally sensitive to their environment, making them excellent indicators of ecosystem health.
Their presence is essential. Removing them from the food chain can create a ripple effect throughout the ecosystem. They are integral to the balance of marine life.
THE PLAN TO HELP THE PENGUINS
Conservation efforts are advancing with NAMCOB’s involvement. According to Ukarapo, the Ministry of Fisheries and Marine Resources (MFMR) often struggles to maintain a presence on the islands and access necessary resources for research. Improvements in data collection and management will lead to more effective seabird conservation policies. She explains, “While the MFMR has historical data, it is not sufficient to paint a complete picture. Our collaboration with the MFMR aims to collect comprehensive information on penguin populations. We are finalising a memorandum of understanding with the MFMR to deploy rangers on the islands.”
Ukarapo continues, “With the Namport expansion on the horizon, establishing a comprehensive baseline of data along the Lüderitz coast is crucial. Additionally, we must evaluate ocean activities like fishing and upcoming oil developments. Identifying healthy habitats and thriving species indicates that resource extraction is being done sustainably. By collaborating
with the MFMR to gather this data, we can inform policies that minimise negative impacts. For example, if vessel noise disrupts penguin populations, we could advocate for a five-nautical-mile buffer zone around islands. Our goal is to ensure data collection translates into effective policies that protect marine life.”
Ukarapo emphasises that this research component is crucial, especially because of the limited data currently available. Natanael adds, “Currently, we’re focusing on four main islands: Halifax, the primary breeding ground for penguins, along with Possession, Ichaboe and Mercury. Halifax still supports a breeding population, while Mercury has dwindled to fewer than 50 penguins, down from thousands.”
Natanael explains that besides the crisis facing the African penguin, it is also a species that provides great insights into the ecosystem because they consistently return to their breeding sites after foraging. “For penguins, their breeding sites are like their homes, unlike other birds that may explore or move their nests to other sites.”
Jessica Kemper
Ukarapo Mungunda
DID YOU KNOW?
• Unique patterns: Each African Penguin has a distinct feather pattern on its chest, much like human fingerprints, making them easily identifiable.
• Lifelong partners: African Penguins are monogamous and form lifelong pair bonds with their mates.
• Historical significance: African Penguins are believed to be one of the first penguin species discovered by humans.
• African exclusivity: They are the only penguin species found in Africa.
• Small size: The African Penguin is one of the smallest penguin species.
• Renowned resilience: They are known for their endurance and ability to withstand hardships, embodying the saying “dynamite comes in small packages”.
• Diving skills: These hardy little penguins can hold their breath for over two minutes and dive to depths of over 130 metres!
• Communication skills: African Penguins communicate through unique vocalisations and body language, with each individual having its own distinct call.
• Vision adaptations: Penguins have flattened corneas, improving their underwater vision and allowing them to see clearly on land. They also have third eyelids, called nictitating membranes, to protect their eyes from saltwater.
• Cooling mechanism: African Penguins have pink glands above their eyes that help cool them down in the summer heat; the hotter they get, the pinker these glands become.
• Special intelligence: African Penguins are incredibly intelligent, as research shows they can recognise each other by memorising each penguin’s unique pattern of markings.
• Population decline: African Penguin populations have plummeted from millions of breeding pairs in the early 20th century. As an indicator species, their presence and numbers reflect the overall health of their marine ecosystem.
Ukarapo Mungunda
REHABILITATING INJURED PENGUINS
Another function of NAMCOB is the rehabilitation of oiled, sick or injured seabirds. Currently, the team is using the MFMR rehabilitation pen in Lüderitz to care for injured or oiled penguins. This is a temporary solution while they are renovating buildings that will become NAMCOB’s permanent home in Lüderitz. The ambitious plans include constructing a larger rehabilitation pen that will allow for school tours and enable visitors to see their important work firsthand. “As part of NAMCOB’s mission, we actively engage with schools, communities and fishermen to raise awareness about marine life and our conservation efforts,” says Ukarapo.
Observing the penguins up close at the pen is a special experience, even though they have faced significant challenges due to oil spills and injuries that require intensive care until they can be released.
Standing here, watching these little tuxedoed treasures, it is easy to see why penguins are among people’s favourite seabirds. They are cute, curious and beautiful, with just a hint of mischief that makes them utterly charming.
Ukarapo emphasises the need for broader conservation efforts: “Many initiatives in Namibia focus on inland areas, but we must recognise the importance of our 1,500-kilometre coastline. This region is vital to our ecological heritage and deserves attention. Our waters are home to unique marine animals, and protecting this biodiversity is crucial, especially since the ocean covers about 70% of the Earth’s surface and supports our livelihoods. Raising awareness about these issues is essential for the sustainability of our marine ecosystems for future generations.” TN
Heiko Metzger
Ukarapo Mungunda Natanael Hangula
Savouring Lüderitz
A journey through Lüderitz Nest Hotel’s culinary offerings
Text & Photographs Kirsty Watermeyer
We recently had the privilege of staying at the Lüderitz Nest Hotel, a charming 4-star haven perched along the stunning coastline of Lüderitz, Namibia. Its prime location offers breathtaking ocean views right from your balcony, giving you the full sights and sounds of the sea. Having recently undergone a major renovation, the hotel beautifully combines modern comforts with a touch of timeless elegance, making it the perfect base from which to explore the beauty of Lüderitz. Within its walls, we discovered not one, but two exceptional dining experiences: the Penguin Restaurant and the Crayfish Bar & Lounge, both of which left a lasting impression.
Established in 1998, the Penguin Restaurant has recently transformed its menu, further establishing itself as a standout dining destination. Known for its exquisite seafood offerings, including the celebrated West Coast rock lobster and Lüderitz oyster platters, the restaurant also takes pride in its locally sourced Lüderitz abalone and succulent Namibian meat dishes.
From the moment we stepped through the doors, the exceptional service at the Penguin Restaurant set the tone for an unforgettable evening. Each meal was accompanied by the attentive care of the exceptional staff. Most evenings we were served by the charming Kiliphas Mikael, whose warm smile and deep knowledge of the menu made us feel right at home after a day of exploring the charming town of Lüderitz.
We kicked off our dining adventures with the world-famous Lüderitz oysters, renowned for their unparalleled freshness as they are harvested just a stone’s throw from the restaurant. The moment the clam shell bowl – brimming with ice and
topped with plump oysters and zesty lemon wedges – arrived at our table, we knew we were in for a treat. Nearby, a couple from Belgium savoured their first-ever oysters, and while uncertain at first, it was not long until they were enjoying the experience like seasoned pros, returning the next night for another round. This was a common sight: patrons returning time and again, clearly satisfied and eager for another memorable experience.
During our evenings at the Penguin, we sampled a delightful array of seafood and Namibian meat dishes. The seafood espetada was nothing short of spectacular – perfectly prepared morsels paired with a garlic sauce that danced on the palate. I found myself wishing for the recipe, or at least a few more nights in Lüderitz to indulge in this exquisite sauce.
The surf and turf also impressed, and across the table, my companions compared notes on their own selections, each dish consistently delivering on flavour and presentation. I must mention that dining with us was a two-year-old, who was delighted by the thoughtful offerings from the comprehensive children’s menu – a testament to the restaurant’s commitment to catering for all guests.
After this gastronomic journey through the art of seafood preparation, we turned our attention to dessert. I had heard whispers of the legendary Crêpes Suzette – an item I would not typically gravitate toward on a dessert menu. Yet, I implore you: do not miss the Crêpes Suzette! This melt-in-your-mouth creation is an experience in itself. Mikael prepared the dish right before our eyes, crafting a mandarin caramel sauce on a hot plate with fresh orange juice, butter, cream and sugar, flambéed with brandy and paired with delicate pancakes and a scoop of ice cream. It was a moment of sheer culinary magic.
With every meal at the Penguin, we left feeling satisfied and content, our appetites fully indulged. On the nights when we
craved something lighter, we found solace at the contemporary Crayfish Bar & Lounge. Its terrace, overlooking the ocean, offered the perfect setting for late-afternoon cocktails and a chance to revisit those incredible Lüderitz oysters. The menu here features casual delights such as snack platters, burgers and fish and chips, complemented by the fascinating stories of the Lüderitz Speed Challenge, whose longest-running sponsor is the Lüderitz Nest Hotel.
Each morning, we were treated to complimentary breakfasts at the Penguin Restaurant, a delightful way to start our day. The spread featured all the usual breakfast staples, but what truly set it apart were the incredible pastries – freshly baked and simply irresistible. Alongside an array of seasonal fruits, there were thoughtfully crafted vegan options that catered to every palate. Whether indulging in a buttery croissant or savouring a vibrant fruit salad, breakfast was a feast that perfectly complemented our stay, energising us for the adventures ahead.
What we discovered at the Lüderitz Nest Hotel is that their dining options are rivalled only by their incredible service and comfortable accommodations. The Penguin Restaurant is not just a meal; it is an experience where one is spoilt for choice and where each dish surpasses the last in deliciousness. Then, whether you are indulging in their renowned seafood or soaking up the relaxed atmosphere of the Crayfish Bar & Lounge, every visit promises to be memorable. For exceptional cuisine, luxurious comfort and an inviting ambiance, look no further than the Lüderitz Nest Hotel when you find yourself in Lüderitz. TN
THE ETOSHA PAN an eagle’s eye perspective
Text & Photographs Anja Denker
The Etosha pan is a large endorheic basin, covering an area of approximately 4760 km2 and stretching some 120km from east to west and 55km north to south. This area is so vast that it is visible from space.
Most visitors and tourists to Namibia’s flagship park are greeted with stunning sights of the vast, shimmering expanse of the pan as they navigate their way along scenic routes. Every now and again, specks of wildlife can be seen in the distance, traversing parts of the pan, leaving one pondering the fact as to what could possibly draw them to such a seemingly barren, desolate wasteland.
Don’t be fooled. This perception could not be further from the truth when your perspective changes completely—not from ground level in your safari vehicle, but from lofty heights as you soar above the pan in a two-seater aeroplane with open windows, juggling three camera bodies in a tight space, holding on with a death grip to prevent them from tumbling down from a height of 500m!
A whole new world unfolded before my wondrous eyes, stunning all senses!
I had the immense privilege of photographing the Etosha Pan for five glorious days, flying in the best light for three hours at dawn and again late afternoon to just before sunset.
The experience was breathtaking, and surreal, and the landscape equally so. Sometimes, during seasons of exceptional rainfall, locally known as efundja, the pan floods through the Ekuma River from the Omadhiya lakes, a series of extensive, shallow grassy pans that merge into large bodies of water during periods of flooding. The pan also receives occasional inflow from the Omuramba Owambo, which drains into Fischer’s Pan at Namutoni. When flooded, Etosha Pan is transformed into a shallow wetland paradise, where huge flocks of lesser and greater flamingos, pelicans and other waterbirds arrive to feed and breed.
The sight of thousands of flamingos flying in various formations over the partly waterfilled pan is simply breathtaking and one of nature’s great spectacles. On 19 June 1995, the Etosha Pan became a Ramsar site and a wetland of international importance.
The water that reaches the Omadhiya lakes and the pan eventually evaporates, leaving salt deposits that were carried downstream behind. Due to evaporation over long periods, various soils are extremely salty and compacted into complex, crusty layers. Salt-loving grasses and halophytic plants manage to grow in less saline soils, and bizarre landscapes of all shapes, patterns and colours are created. The main pan and smaller pans are scoured by relentless winds, thus shaped by wind deflation. Thick layers of salt deposits often fringe the pans and watercourses in various forms, resembling thick layers of white icing, blown into thin whisps in places. Vibrant hues of various colour variations are a spectacle to behold in narrow watercourses and seepages along the pan’s edges, as well as the Ekuma and Oshigambo rivers. These are created by the different salt crystals, bacteria and phytoplankton reflected in the water at different angles and times of day.
Thousands of tracks left by wild and birdlife are visible on parts of the pan's surface, testament to the fact that there is life on the pan. Small islands and tracts of grasslands, especially in the region of the Ekuma River, sustain life and are frequented by wildlife in search of water, sweet grasses, and mineral deposits. Ostriches, for instance, often prefer to breed a few kilometres into the pan, seeking safety from predators.
I was able to document a pride of six lions for three days, first seeing them reclining in a lush, green, dense bed of reeds near the pan’s edge and then dramatically a day later when they were feasting on a meal of zebra on the white expanse of the pan. A final sight of them early the next morning, reclining satedly next to the Springbokfontein waterhole in an alien, lunar landscape from a bird’s-eye perspective, left me in awe.
Many waterholes like Sueda, Salvadora and Charitsaub offer a completely different perspective when viewed from above, offering a glimpse at what lies further away to the pan side. Many seepages occur at intervals at the edge of the pan, the water often reflected in brilliant hues of green, purple, orange and yellow. They, too, sustain life and attract a great number of wildlife.
One afternoon, the most bizarre sighting was that of a spring erupting on the pan, seemingly from nowhere. It was reminiscent of the shape of a painter’s palette and sported a myriad of different colours.
The pan revealed itself to me as a fairytale wonderland, a place of stark contrasts and extreme, abstract, artistic beauty. It was a life changing experience, one that left an indelible impression on my very soul… TN
Editor’s note: Few people have the immense privilege of experiencing Etosha from this special vantage point. Anja’s incredible photographic library and vast knowledge and experiences of Etosha National Park can be enjoyed in her new guidebook – Etosha Self-Drive: Routes, Roads & Ratings – available at local bookstores, Amazon, HPH Publishers or email anja@pumpsol.com.na
WHEN LUXURY IS THE DESTINATION
YourjourneytothefarreachesofNamibia shouldbeascomfortablyindulgentasyour breathtaking destination.
A Monument to Legacy and Innovation
CYMOT’s new flagship store unveiled
Text Elzanne McCulloch
Iwalk through aisle upon aisle. Overhead, a lofty modern ceiling stretches far above, giving the space an airy, almost cathedral-like feel. The store is massive. So much so that I wonder, half-jokingly, if I’ll ever find my way out. There’s a comforting sense of familiarity here, though. Like walking through the halls of a place that has quietly been a part of your life for as long as you can remember. Greensport tents, Scott bicycles, rows of tools that could fix just about anything, and Jonsson's clothing that has seen many of us through countless adventures in the Namibian wilderness.
But today, there’s something undeniably different. The setting is new. So very new and vast and exciting. It feels larger than life. I stop for a moment to take it all in. My neck might have a kink in it after this visit as it swivels back and forth between one beautiful display after the other. Up and around to take in the towering roof trusses and windows. The scale, the sleek modernity, and the sense that this is more than just a store. This is CYMOT 2.0. A place that feels like it belongs in a bigger, bolder Namibia.
And as I wander through this sprawling store, I realise that CYMOT, like Namibia itself, is evolving. This is a monument to growth, to resilience, and to the pioneering spirit that has always defined this company, and our country. A store, yes, but more than that, a symbol of what’s possible.
On 17 October, CYMOT Namibia slid open the glass doors to its new flagship store – CYMOT Hilltop – next to the Grove Mall in Windhoek. The grand opening event, held on the following evening, brought together nearly 500 guests, a mixture of clients, suppliers, and Namibian business stalwarts, to celebrate a first for Namibia.
CYMOT has been a cornerstone of the Namibian economy for 75 years, building a legacy intertwined with Namibia and her people. From modest beginnings, the company has grown to boast 18 branches nationwide, one in Angola, and on-site stores at major mines. However, it’s this new flagship store that marks the next chapter in CYMOT’s journey. An audacious leap forward that reflects the company's vision for the future of retail in Namibia and its unwavering commitment to its roots.
At the heart of this grand venture lies the passion of those who made it a reality. Axel Theissen, CYMOT Group Chairman, has been brimming with excitement for this new venture since he took up the mantle as project manager two years ago. Speaking to Axel, listening to his passion for the project, left one completely unable not to be as excited as he is. I have felt this bubbling enthusiasm build up for months, the waves of
anticipation rolling off him and sweeping the rest of us along for the ride. None of Axel’s descriptions could have prepared me for the awe that awaited as I took my first steps into CYMOT Hilltop, though.
The party was big and buzzy, yet humbly Namibian in all its glory. Addressing the gathered crowd, Axel spoke with heartfelt pride about the significance of CYMOT Hilltop. With emotion in his voice, he proudly announced that, to make this dream a reality, “We solely appointed Namibian contractors and subcontractors.” The construction process itself was nothing short of remarkable. With 162,000 man-hours poured into the project, CYMOT Hilltop stands as a product of Namibian hands, minds, and hearts. Two years and ten days ago, this was a bare piece of land, but today, it’s a national asset that will stand for generations to come. For Theissen, the project is personal, a physical legacy of his twenty years at the helm of CYMOT.
The opening of CYMOT Hilltop is a first for Namibia in more ways than one. This building showcases cutting-edge features that blend technological innovation with environmental consciousness. Axel highlighted these achievements, noting that the store is entirely off-grid and powered by solar energy, making use of ingenuity to keep the vast space cool and sustainable. The project was completed within the original project budget and timeline, which anyone who has ever attempted even the most rudimentary renovation project will recognise as quite a feat. This sentiment was mirrored by CYMOT CEO, Ralph Ellinger. “It is said that Rome was not built in a day. But that is probably because they didn't have the same contractors as CYMOT Hilltop,” he mused.
He shared that this building embodies what Namibia can achieve when we think bigger, when we challenge ourselves to meet world-class standards. As a symbol of Namibian capability, CYMOT Hilltop is not just a store but a reflection of the country's forward momentum. The sheer scale and ambition of the project underline Namibia’s readiness to step up and claim its place as a world-class destination. "We don’t just talk big – we build big," Ellinger remarked with a grin, referencing the company’s modest yet impactful mantra that has shaped its success.
Looking ahead, CYMOT Hilltop promises to elevate customer experiences with its innovative approach to retail, sustainability, and design. This flagship store is not just a milestone for CYMOT, but for Namibia. It reflects the nation’s ability to deliver excellence, embodying both the promise of the present and the potential of the future. A future built on the legacy of its past and the vision of what is yet to come. TN
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SWAKOPMUND FAT BIKE TOURS
Text & Photographs Suné van Wyk
DISCOVER THE OLDEST DESERT IN THE WORLD WITH
SWAKOPMUND'S
FAT BIKE TOURS
If you’re visiting Swakopmund, Namibia’s coastal gem, and looking for a unique way to explore the region, Swakopmund Fat Bike Tours offers an unforgettable experience. Having recently gone on their "Up-close Living Desert Tour", I can say with confidence that their tours perfectly blend adventure, ecoconsciousness, and exploration. This 3.5-hour journey, taken on a fat bike, allows you to discover the hidden beauty and biodiversity of the oldest desert in the world— an adventure I found both enlightening and exciting.
AN ECO-FRIENDLY ADVENTURE WITH A PERSONAL TOUCH
The experience starts the moment you arrive at their shop. From the friendly greeting to the briefing and fitting of helmets, everything is done with warmth and professionalism. Before heading out, the guide gave clear instructions on using the e-bike (which I chose for a little extra help on the dunes) and explained what we’d encounter along the way. Snacks were provided, which came in handy during our stops. Right from the start, I appreciated how personalised the experience felt. The guide made sure we were all comfortable and reassured us that the pace and focus of the tour would be tailored to the group’s preferences.
As we set off, Swakopmund’s urban landscape gradually gave way to the breathtaking expanse of the desert. Each terrain we rode through—from riverbeds to dunes— was distinctly different. What struck me most was how seamlessly the adventure adapted to our group’s varying fitness levels. The e-bike made pedaling through the desert an absolute breeze. It made the whole journey easy and enjoyable, allowing me to focus on the stunning scenery and fascinating wildlife.
UP-CLOSE WILDLIFE ENCOUNTERS
One of the highlights of this tour was undoubtedly the close-up encounters with the desert’s unique fauna. Guided by an expert with an impressive knowledge of desert life, we were able to spot creatures like lizards, beetles, snakes, spiders and even a chameleon hiding in the bush. At one point, the guide blew sand off the ground to reveal a spider burrow! We also encountered a few unexpected animals like flamingos and camels, which only added to the magic of the experience. These encounters felt truly special, and the guide ensured that we interacted with the animals in a way that was safe for both us and them.
A Peringuey’s Adder (Sidewinder) camouflaged among the
Our guide blowing in the sand to reveal a spider’s burrow
Guide explaining about the desert gerbil with a visual aid from his booklet.
desert sand.
A Namaqua chameleon soaking up the sun on a dollar bush.
Shovel-snouted lizard standing tall and alert.
A Fitzsimons burrowing skink— Namibia's legless lizard.
Collecting metal fragments from the desert sand.
The guide’s expertise in finding these animals was evident. He followed tracks and tips from earlier tours, using his knowledge of the desert to uncover the hidden wonders that most people would easily miss. What made it even better was his patient approach—encouraging us to ask questions and take photos. For me, it felt like a hands-on wildlife documentary, but much more interactive and personal.
A BLEND OF ADVENTURE AND EDUCATION
What truly sets this tour apart is the way it combines adventure with education. The guide didn’t just show us the animals; he also shared stories about the desert’s rich history, the unique plants that thrive in the arid landscape, and even a few cultural insights. One moment that stood out to me was when the guide showed us how the dunes contain metallic particles. He handed us magnets so we could try picking up these pieces ourselves—an activity that made us feel like desert explorers.
Throughout the tour, there was a constant flow of information, from the geographical significance of the areas we rode through to fun facts about the flora and fauna and a few jokes. The educational aspect didn’t feel forced—it added depth to the adventure, making the whole experience more meaningful.
PERFECT FOR ALL AGES AND FITNESS LEVELS
One of the things I appreciated most about this tour was its accessibility. Whether you’re an experienced cyclist or someone who doesn’t bike often, the fat bikes (and e-bikes!)
make it easy to enjoy. Even when the terrain got a bit more challenging, the e-bike was a game-changer, giving me the extra boost I needed. The guide also kept a close eye on the group, frequently checking in to make sure everyone was comfortable and adjusting the pace as needed.
This tour is also ideal for families. The combination of fun, education, and wildlife encounters makes it suitable for kids and adults alike. Plus, the regular stops for photos and snacks ensured that no one felt rushed. It was a relaxed yet engaging adventure from start to finish.
BOOK YOUR DESERT ADVENTURE TODAY
For those looking to experience Namibia’s breathtaking desert in an intimate and eco-friendly way, I highly recommend Swakopmund Fat Bike Tours. Their Up-close Living Desert Tour is an unforgettable journey through one of the world’s most unique ecosystems. Whether you’re a solo traveler, a couple, or a family, this tour offers the perfect blend of adventure, education, and up-close encounters with nature. TN
To book your desert adventure, visit them at The Atrium Building, 6 Hendrik Witbooi Street, Swakopmund, or contact them via WhatsApp at +264 81 395 5813. You can also find more details, including bike rentals, on their website at swakopfatbiketours.com
Beyond Epic Experiences
Swakopmund classic Reimagining a
Cornerstone Guesthouse under new ownership
Swakopmund, Namibia’s coastal jewel, is known for its beautiful blend of history, adventure and natural beauty. It is also home to the much-loved Cornerstone Guesthouse – a small, private bed and breakfast which offers a peaceful retreat with a central location. In March of last year, seasoned tour guides Hobby and Steffi Kreiner took over this iconic property, bringing their own personal touch and years of experience in the tourism industry to the guesthouse.
REFINING A CLASSIC
Before becoming guesthouse owners, Hobby and Steffi spent many years running a game farm focused on tourism and hunting. When it was time for a change, the idea of running a guesthouse felt like a natural fit.
“We looked at many guesthouses, but Cornerstone became our benchmark,” says Hobby. “It had everything we were looking for – location, charm and character. We knew this was the one.”
One of the first improvements Hobby and Steffi made to the guesthouse was adding a splash of colour to the garden. “It was all green before, which was nice, but we introduced flowers to bring more vibrancy,” says Steffi. “We wanted the outdoor space to feel as welcoming as the interior.” They also added bird feeders which have since attracted a variety of delightful birdlife, making the garden an even more charming and enjoyable place to relax.
Hobby and Steffi wanted to preserve the essence of the guesthouse while adding their own personal style and vision. The changes they made were subtle yet impactful: a revamped breakfast buffet, a state-of-the-art coffee machine and thoughtful touches like makeup towels and candles on outdoor tables, which Steffi knew guests would appreciate. “Guests always value those small details, so we made sure to include them here,” she says.
Sustainability was also a key focus, so the couple introduced both small and large changes, such as eliminating singleuse plastic butter packets to reduce waste and investing in a 24-kilowatt solar panel system to improve energy efficiency and make the guesthouse more environmentally friendly.
NEW ROOMS, NEW OPTIONS, SAME CHARM
Cornerstone Guesthouse offers nine charming rooms – more like spacious suites – including six twin/double rooms and three family rooms that can accommodate two adults and one or two children under 12. Since taking over, Hobby and Steffi have experienced steady growth in bookings, with the guesthouse often fully booked well in advance.
With the Kreiners at the helm, new life has been breathed into Cornerstone, ensuring that it remains one of Swakopmund’s favourite guesthouses. Their blend of modern amenities, classic charm and thoughtful details has made it a must-visit destination for anyone looking to experience the best of this coastal town.
Hobby and Steffi’s commitment to quality, personalised service and sustainability is creating a welcoming environment for firsttime visitors and returning guests. Just a short walk from the town centre, Cornerstone offers guests a peaceful, quiet place to relax while still being close to everything Swakopmund has to offer. The spacious garden and secure parking area add to the overall sense of comfort and security, making it an ideal base for both short stays and longer visits. TN
For more information, contact: Tel: +264 64 462 468
Email: info@cornerstoneguesthouse.com www.cornerstoneguesthouse.com
Hobby and Steffi Kreiner
The Stonemen
A journey through mystery, nature and timeless wisdom in Namibia's Kaokoland
Text Elzanne McCulloch
The Stonemen - Flint and friends in Kaokoland is a spellbinding journey into the heart of Namibia’s remote and mystical Kaokoland, where the lines between reality and legend blur against the backdrop of vast desert landscapes. Authored by Ron Swilling, who skillfully narrates the story as told to her, this book delves into the adventures of Flint Firestone as he navigates through the wilds of Kaokoland, meeting an array of mysterious stone figures – each with their own story to tell. The creator of these enigmatic Stonemen remains anonymous, adding an extra layer of mystery to this compelling narrative.
At its essence, the book is a reflective exploration of the natural world and humanity's connection to it. The desert landscape of Kaokoland becomes a living, breathing entity that Flint and his stone companions inhabit. Every Stoneman Flint encounters offers a unique perspective on life, survival, and the forces that have shaped the earth for millennia. Whether it’s Hanging Man, who contemplates the fragile balance between humans and desert wildlife, or Quartz Man, who muses on the desert’s famous fairy circles, each interaction invites readers to pause and consider the delicate symbiosis between man and nature.
The author’s writing beautifully captures the essence of the Kaokoland, a place where time seems to slow down, allowing readers to experience the profound stillness and awe-inspiring beauty of Namibia's wilderness. Swilling’s descriptions bring the landscape to life – the arid heat of the day, the shimmering constellations of the night sky, and the whispering winds that seem to carry ancient secrets. These vivid depictions are complemented by captivating photographs, and atmospheric illustrations by Jacquie Tarr, whose art adds depth to the story’s already immersive quality.
More than just a tale of adventure, The Stonemen is also a meditation on conservation and our responsibility toward
the natural world. The Stonemen themselves, who stand as guardians of the earth, serve as symbolic reminders that we must tread lightly on this planet, preserving it for future generations. Throughout the story, environmental themes are woven seamlessly into the narrative, reminding us that the wilderness is both fragile and resilient, depending on how we choose to engage with it.
The story’s philosophical undercurrents are subtle but powerful. Flint’s journey isn’t just a physical trek through the remote northwest of Namibia; it is also a spiritual and emotional one. Each meeting with a Stoneman brings new insights, not only about the landscape and its creatures but also about life’s deeper meanings – community, balance, survival, and respect for the earth. Swilling’s deft storytelling brings these moments of reflection to the forefront without being heavy-handed, creating a narrative that is as thoughtprovoking as it is enjoyable.
This is a book for young and old. For those who appreciate adventure, the allure of the unknown, and the profound wisdom that can be found in the natural world. The anonymity of the Stonemen’s creator only adds to the book’s mystique, encouraging readers to focus less on the artist and more on the art – on the powerful messages embedded in the stones and the timeless landscapes they inhabit.
The Stonemen - Flint and friends in Kaokoland is a journey that will captivate nature lovers, adventurers, and anyone who has ever been touched by the vast beauty of untouched wilderness. It’s a reminder that even in the quietest corners of the world, there are stories waiting to be told – and lessons waiting to be learned. TN
To order your copy, visit www.venture-events.com or email bonn@venture.com.na
Oceans of insight
Discovering Namibia’s first Maritime Museum in Lüderitz
Text &
Photographs
Kirsty Watermeyer
Anchors, propellers, masts, winches and an artistic sundial are arranged to create an outdoor walkway that marks the beginning of your journey through time and all things maritime. As we step into the newly opened Maritime Museum in Lüderitz, we are about to explore a rich and fascinating past. This world-class tourist attraction celebrates the town’s seafaring heritage and its deep connection to the ocean. Having visited maritime museums around the globe, I can confidently say that this one is as captivating as its international counterparts. Housed within the restored historic Lüderitz Old Power Station on Dias Street, the museum spans five floors, taking visitors back in time while also highlighting contemporary interactions with the ocean.
Visitors can explore artefacts from shipwrecks, navigation tools and equipment used by local fishermen, all of which provide a tangible connection to Lüderitz’s seafaring past. Detailed displays narrate the stories of early explorers and traders, bringing their adventures to life.
I was fortunate to have a sneak peek inside Namibia’s first maritime museum before it opened to the public, guided through the building by museum curator and historian Eino Ngesheya, who is a true custodian of maritime knowledge. I found myself captivated, hanging on Ngesheya’s every word. Every corner of this five-storey building has been expertly curated, offering opportunities for learning and discovery at every turn.
One of the standout features of the museum is its impressive collection of ship models. “We have the largest collection in Southern Africa, with about 220 models from various time periods,” Ngesheya shares with pride. Each model is a work of art, showcasing the evolution of maritime technology and its significance in shaping historical development.
As visitors explore the exhibits, they are encouraged to reflect on the historical importance of watercraft. Ngesheya emphasises that watercraft is the earliest form of transportation and adds, “Initially, propulsion was achieved through manpower and animals, but this changed with the discovery of wind power.” The collection is extensive, and each model ship tells a story, such as the Roman ceremonial vessel which symbolises ancient connections across the seas. “This model represents a Roman ceremonial vessel used by Julius Caesar,” says Ngesheya when asked about it.
But the museum is not just an incredible collection of model ships; there is also an impressive collection of commemorative coins. “These coins honour our rich maritime heritage and remind us of the people and events that shaped our relationship with the sea,” says Ngesheya. In addition, there are drawers and shelves filled with marine artefacts, seashells and historical documents from various parts of the world. Ngesheya quips, “If it’s not related to the sea, it doesn’t belong here!”
Interactive
exhibits educate visitors about the diverse marine ecosystems off the Namibian coast, highlighting the importance of sustainable fishing practices and the conservation of marine resources.
Another notable highlight in the collection of historical artefacts is the Library of Maritime Literature. This temperaturecontrolled library houses a variety of publications, including first editions, historical marvels, maps and more. With each exhibit, the museum not only educates visitors but also inspires a deeper appreciation for the ocean and its vital role in Namibia’s history and culture.
Highly interactive and immersive, a fully restored research vessel – once used by the Ministry of Fisheries and Marine Resources – invites visitors to explore a fully operational ship while enjoying a bite to eat on board.
Another fascinating aspect of your visit is the journey through time, from past to present. You can explore giant seashells and shark skeletons, learn about the safety standards established after the sinking of the Titanic, and examine the equipment used by speed surfers during the annual Lüderitz Speed Challenge.
The museum places a strong emphasis on the environmental aspects of maritime life. Interactive exhibits educate visitors about the diverse marine ecosystems off the Namibian coast, highlighting the importance of sustainable fishing practices and the conservation of marine resources. This dual focus on history and ecology reflects a commitment to fostering a deeper understanding of the relationship between the community and the ocean, ensuring that visitors leave with not just knowledge but a sense of responsibility towards marine conservation.
As Ngesheya explains, “We strive to create an engaging experience for our visitors. Whether it’s through soft cubes for children to sit on or interactive elements, we want everyone to feel connected to our maritime history.” This commitment to inclusivity ensures that all guests leave with a deeper understanding and appreciation of the region’s nautical past.
At the top of the building, a realistic captain’s seat from a ship allows visitors to envision themselves as a seafarer
of the past. Surrounded by authentic equipment and tools reminiscent of those used on vessels of bygone eras, a visit to the museum is an immersive experience that will transport you back in time.
The Namibia Maritime Museum is an initiative of the Lüderitz Waterfront Development Company and spearheaded by its board chairman, Angel Tordesillas. At the official opening of the Maritime Museum, Namibian President Nangolo Mbumba said, “Our coast, stretching 1,572 kilometres along the Atlantic Ocean, has been central to trade, exploration and cultural exchange for centuries. This museum stands as a resource for discovering our rich maritime history and understanding the ocean’s economic significance.”
The museum also plays a vital role in the local community by hosting temporary exhibitions and educational programmes. These initiatives encourage engagement with local schools and residents, fostering a love for maritime knowledge and appreciation among visitors and the community alike. Special events, such as lectures and workshops, are organised to promote Namibia’s maritime heritage and environmental awareness.
The Lüderitz Maritime Museum is more than just a collection of artefacts; it is a vibrant celebration of the sea and its integral role in shaping the identity of Lüderitz. It stands as a remarkable tribute to the community’s nautical heritage and its significance as a key port in Namibia, all set against the stunning backdrop of the Atlantic Ocean.
For those exploring Lüderitz, the Maritime Museum offers a captivating journey through time, blending stories of adventure, survival and the pressing issues of modern marine conservation. It stands as a testament to the town’s enduring connection to the sea, inviting visitors to appreciate not only the beauty of the ocean but also its profound impact on the lives of those who call this coastal region home. TN
Eino Ngesheyo
A commitment to Environmental Stewardship and Collaborative Science
Debmarine Namibia’s commitment to environmental stewardship and scientific research is evident in its recent initiative to donate surplus benthic samples to several institutions. By supporting the Ministry of Fisheries and Marine Resources, the Ministry of Education, the Directorate of National Heritage and Culture Programmes, the University of Namibia (UNAM), and the Namibia University of Science and Technology (NUST), the company is enhancing marine research and education.
Reiterating the company’s commitment to environmental stewardship and fostering meaningful partnerships with these institutions, Debmarine Namibia's Chief Executive Officer, Willy Mertens emphasised that the company operates in the offshore realm, with immediate communities acting as guardians of the vast Atlantic Ocean. “One of our core initiatives is the benthic monitoring programme, which assesses the impact of our recovery operations on the benthic communities in the Atlantic 1 Mining Licence Area. This programme also monitors the recovery time after recovery activities. Annually, between October and December, we collect benthic samples from designated control, impact and natural variability sites across the mining licence area. This commitment to comprehensive data collection and analysis demonstrates our dedication to understanding and minimising our environmental impact. These samples have been collected for the past three years, with an investment of over N$20 million.”
Mertens mentioned that the company’s utmost respect for the marine environment includes the recovery process involving the extraction of diamondiferous gravel from the ocean floor at depths reaching 140 metres. Notably, 80 percent of the extracted material is returned to the seabed, showcasing the company’s dedication to sustainable practices. To ensure operations align with the highest environmental standards, Debmarine Namibia has obtained certification to the ISO 14001
international standard. This certification establishes stringent requirements for an environmental management system that supports environmental protection, pollution prevention, and compliance with legal obligations. It also emphasises the importance of socio-economic considerations and close collaboration with key stakeholders.
Debmarine Namibia's Chief Environmental Scientist, Dr. Deon Louw, highlighted the significance of partnerships in achieving the company’s environmental goals. “We work closely with the Benguela Current Commission, a multinational crosssectoral initiative involving Angola, Namibia, and South Africa. In 2012, the company took a significant step by initiating the establishment of the Marine Scientific Advisory Committee (MSAC). This committee comprises independent scientists from various local and South African universities, as well as experts from the De Beers group. This year, international scientists have been added to MSAC as well. The philosophy that underpins Debmarine Namibia, as reflected in the company’s environmental policy, is a commitment to continual improvement in environmental management practices. By closely monitoring the key characteristics of operations, Debmarine Namibia aims to minimise any potential negative impacts on the environment.
The donation of samples to Professor Lameck Mwapagha of NUST, Dr. Eliakim Hamunyela of UNAM, and Dr. Francois Becker of the National Museum of Namibia demonstrates the value placed on academic and scientific partnerships. These collaborations are expected to significantly contribute to advancing marine research and enhancing knowledge about the Atlantic Ocean’s ecosystems. TN
Our five White-faced Ducks during their formation flight.
SPECIAL OLYMPICS
Text & Photographs Pompie Burger
In the wake of the recent Olympics in Paris, it's time to reflect on our Namibian athletes' performances and plan for the next event in LA. The Namibian Birding Association is hosting a November workshop to dissect our journey, pinpoint our missteps, and strategise improvements.
One glaring issue was our supporting staff: reduced to a single coach due to the overwhelming size of the Zimbabwean support team. This left us without a physiotherapist, dietitian, or psychologist – a significant handicap when one of our birds sustained a wing injury and could not compete.
Financial constraints meant many athletes had to make their own way to Paris, resulting in a few arriving too late to participate due to exhaustion. However, the opening ceremony dazzled, especially when our African Skimmers performed a stunning fly-by, earning a standing ovation. Our Scimitar-billed ensemble serenaded the crowd with a beautiful rendition of “Bird on the Wire,” penned by Leonard Cohen. Adorned in vibrant Namibian flags – though an ostrich mysteriously devoured some – our athletes looked magnificent. The bright side? None failed their drug tests, a small triumph in our book.
Track and Field: The sprints were a highlight, with Ossie Ostrich claiming gold in the 100, 200, and 400 meters. Unfortunately, the astronomical feeding costs in Paris led the geological society to promise a container of stones for future Olympics. Sadly, Ossie was disqualified for kicking an opponent, who tragically succumbed to injuries. With his medals returned, he left the Olympics empty-handed and is currently in custody.
Water Sports: In swimming, our two Red-billed Teals thrived after rigorous training at the Walvis Bay sewage works, emerging as the only competitors to survive E. Coli in the Seine, securing gold and silver medals. Meanwhile, in deep-sea diving, our White-breasted Cormorant dove too deep for the judges to measure, resulting in an unfortunate absence from the medal list.
For the freshwater fishing event, we sent an African Fish Eagle and an Osprey. Unfortunately, the Osprey had to withdraw due to a broken wing, but was replaced by a Pied Kingfisher, who performed admirably despite the circumstances.
Rock Climbing: Our Rock Runner, the only endemic member of our team, finished almost an hour ahead of the nearest competitor, smashing the world record and bringing home gold. The Minister of Culture and Resettlement noted the need for more endemic representation in the team in future.
Hide-and-Seek: This event was a highlight, though there were no winners – none of the contestants could be found. Our Baillon’s Crake, expected to take gold, went missing at the Rundu sewage works before departure.
In the formation flying event, our White-faced Ducks captured silver, albeit with only five making it to Paris, limiting their full acrobatic display. In high-flying, our Lappet-faced Vulture clinched first place by a mere hundredth of a millimetre over the Red-headed Vulture contender from India.
African Fish Eagle getting a talk by his coach during a practice session.
White-breasted Cormorants
Lappet-faced Vulture discussing tactics.
Rockrunner - gold medalist in rock climbing.
Pied Kingfisher participating in the fishing event.
Thick-billed Weaver with its prize winning nest during the trials in Windhoek.
In the vomiting event, our Giant Eagle Owl wowed spectators with a gold medal-worthy performance, producing a perfect oval-shaped pellet that travelled three meters, surpassing his previous record. Afterward, he reported feeling great, aside from a sore throat.
Miscellaneous Events: In snake catching, a blunder led to the selection of a Black-breasted Snake-Eagle over the superior Brown Snake Eagle, who tested positive for bird flu. In the nesting category, we had a major disadvantage to our Northern Hemisphere counterparts, with it being winter in Namibia. As a result, the Thick-billed Weaver had no time to practice and thus was not in top form, subsequently withdrawing and abandoning the event unfinished.
The Great White Pelicans dazzled in formation swimming, but once all the fish were caught in the pond, they flew off to another dam and were disqualified. The new beauty contest was competitive, though political interference meant we couldn’t send the Malachite Kingfisher, instead opting for a Marabou Stork, allegedly tied to an influential politician.
Our medalists were greeted by the President and a cheering crowd upon their return to Hosea Kutako International Airport. The medalists were the only members of the team allowed to fly back by plane. We are still waiting for the rest of the team because, by the time this article went to press, they had not arrived from Paris.
Total medals Gold: 4. Silver: 2. Bronze: 0 TN
Marabou Stork, last in the beauty contest.
Reed Cormorant
Verreaux's Eagleowl just after his medal winning vomit.
